Remarks on Several Parts of Italy  

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Remarks on Several Parts of Italy, &c., in the years 1701, 1702, 1703 (1705) is a text by Joseph Addison.

Joseph Addison embarked on the Grand Tour in 1699 and commented in Remarks on Several Parts of Italy etc. that "The Alps fill the mind with an agreeable kind of horror", illustrating the notion of the sublime, although the word sublime itself is only used twice, in Latin citations, one by Claudian, one by Lucan.

The significance of Addison's concept of the sublime is that the three pleasures of the imagination that he identified; greatness, uncommonness, and beauty, "arise from visible objects" (sight rather than rhetoric). It is also notable that in writing on the "Sublime in external Nature", he does not use the term "sublime", but uses terms that would be considered as absolutive superlatives, e.g. "unbounded", "unlimited", as well as "spacious", "greatness", and on occasion terms denoting excess.

Addison's notion of greatness was integral to the concept of the sublime. An art object could be beautiful but it could not rise to greatness. His work Pleasures of the Imagination, as well as Mark Akenside's Pleasures of the Imagination (1744), and Edward Young's Night Thoughts (1745), are generally considered as the starting points for Burke's analysis.

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This is a reproduction of a library book that was digitized by Google as part of an ongoing effort to preserve the information in books and make it universally accessible. https://books.google.com NEW YORK PUBLIC 3 3433 04392 0929 C 11-2209 Addison, Joseph Remarks on several parts of Italy, & c . i XS PELTORS SPERO Fran Pantons 1 1

4 1 REMARKS ON SEVERAL PARTS OF I T A L 1, &c. In the Years, 1701 , 1702, 1703. By the late Right Honourable YOSEPH ADDISON, Efq ; Verum ergo id eft, fi quis in cælum afcendiffet, naturamque mundi& pulchritudinem faderum perfpexiſſet, inſuavene illam admirationem ei fore, quæ jucundi lina fuiſſet, fa aliquem cui narraret habuiſſet. Cicero de Amic . L O N D ON: Printed for J. and R.TONS ON and S. R BAPER MDCC LIII. LIBRA LENOX NEW YORK To the Right Honourable Fohn Lord Sommers, BARON of Eveſham . MY LORD, HERE is a Plea ſure in owning Ob ligations which it is an Honour to havereceived ; A 2 but DEDICATI O N. but ſhould I publiſh any Favours done me by Your Lordſhip, I am afraid it would look more like Vani ty, than Gratitude. I had a very early Am bition to recommend my ſelf to Your Lordſhip’s Pa tronage, which yet increas'd in me as I travell'd thro' the Countries, of which I here give Your Lordſhip fome Account : For what ever great Impreſſions an Eng DEDICATION Engliſhman muſt have Your Lordſhip, they who have been converſant A broad will find them ſtill improved . It cannot but be obvious to them, that, tho' they ſee Your Lord fhip’s Admirers every where, they meet with very few of Your Well-wiſhers at Paris or at Rome. And I could not but obferve, when paſſed through moſt of the Proteſtant Governments A 3 in DE D.I CA TIO N. in Europe, that their Hopes or Fears for the Com mon Cauſe roſe or fell with Your Lordſhip’s Inte reſt and Authority in Eng land. I here preſent Your Lordſhip with the Remarks that I made in a part of theſe my Travels ; wherein, notwithſtanding the Variety of the Subject, I am very fenſible that I offer nothing New to Your Lordſhip, and can DEDICATI O N. can have no other Deſign in this Addreſs, than to de clare that I am, My LORD , Your Lordſhip’s moſt obliged and moft obedient humble Servanti 1. ADDISO ME 1 P R E F A C E. T HERE is certainly no Place in the World, where a Man maytravel with greaterPlea ſure and Advantage, than in Italy. One finds ſomething more particular in the face of the Country, and more aſtoniſhing in the Worksof Nature, than can bemet with in any other Part of Europe. It is the greatSchool of Muſic andPainting, and contains in it all the nobleft Productions of Statuary and Architecture, both An cient and Modern. It abounds with Cabi nets of Curioſities, and vaſt Collections of all kinds ofAntiquities. No other Country in the World has ſuch a Variety of Go vernments, that are ſo different in their Conſtitutions, and ſo refined in their Poli tics. There is ſcarce any Part of the Nation that is not Famous in Hiſtory, nor P R E FACE. ز norſo much as a Mountain or River, that has not been the Scene of ſome extraor dinary Astion. As there are fewe Men that have Talents orOpportunitiesforexaminingso copious a Subject, one may obſerve, among thoſe who have written on Italy, that different Authors have ſucceeded ' beſt on differentforts of Curioſities. Some have been more particular in their Accounts of Pietures, Statues, and Buildings ; Some haveſearch'dinto Libraries, Cabinets of Rarities, and Collections of Medals ; as others have been wholly taken up with Inſcriptions, Ruins, and Antiquities. Among the Authors of our own Country, we are obliged to the Biſhop of Saliſbury, for his maſterly and uncommon Obſerva tions on the Religion and Governments of Italy : Laffels maybeuſeful in giving us the Names of ſuch Writers as have treated of the ſeveral States through which bepaſs’d : Mr. Ray is to be va lued for his Obſervations on the natural Productions of the Place. Monſieur Mil ſon has wrote a more correct Account of Italy P R E FACE. Italy in general than any before him , as he particularly excels in the Plan of the Country, which he has given us in true and lively Colours. There areſtill ſeveral of theſe Topics that are far from being exhauſted , as there are many new Subjects that a Tra veller may find to employ himſelf upon . For my own part, as I have taken no tice of ſeveral Places and Antiquities that no Body elſe has ſpoken of, ſo, I think, I have mentioned but few Things in common with others, that are not ei ther ſet in a new Light, or accompany'd with different Reflexions. I have taken careparticularly to conßder the ſeveral Pallages of the Ancient Poets, which have any Relation to the Places or Curioſities that I met with ; For before I entered on my Voyage I took care to refreſh my Me mory among Claſſic Authors, and to make ſuch Collections out of them as Imight af terwards have Occaſion for. I muſt con feſs it was not one of the leaſt Entertain ments that I met with in Travelling, to examine theſe ſeveral Deſcriptions, as it were P R E F A CE. were upon the Spot, and to compare the Natural Face of the Country with the Landſkips that the Poets havegiven us of it. However, to avoid the Confuſionthat might ariſe from a Multitude of Quota tions, Ihave only citedſuch Verſes as have given us fome Image of the Place, or that baveſomething elſe beħdes the bare Name of it to recommend them . 1 MO. M O N A CO, G EN O A , &c. N the Twelfth of December, 1699, I fet out from Marſeilles to Genoa in a Tartane, and arrived late at a ſmall French Port callid Cafis, where the next Morning we were not a little ſurpris'd to ſee all the Mountains about the Town cover'd with green Olive- trees, or laid out in beautiful Gardens, which gave us a great Va riety of pleaſing Proſpects, even in the Depth ofWin ter. The moſtuncultivated of them produce abun dance of ſweet Plants, as Wild - Thyme, Laven der, Roſemary, Balm , and Myrtle. We were here ſhown at a diſtance the Deſerts, which have been rendered ſo famous by the Penance of Mary Magdalene, who, after her Arrival with Lazarus andyoſephof Arimathea at Marſeilles, is ſaid to have wept away the reſt of her Life among theſe ſolitary Rocks and Mountains. It is ſo romantic a Scene, that it has always probably given occafion to B fuch 14 Monaco, Genoa, & c. ſuch chimerical Relations ; for it is perhaps of this Place that Claudian ſpeaks, in the following De fcription ; Eft locus extremum pandit quà Gallia littus Oceani prætentus aquis, quà fertur Ulyſſes Sanguine libato populum moviſe Silentüm : Illic Umbrarum tenui ftridore volantům Flebilis auditur queſtus ; ſimulachra coloni Pallida defunétafque vident migrare figuras, & c. Claud. in Ruf. lib. 1 . A Place there lies on Gallia's utmoſt Bounds, Where riſing Seas inſult the Frontier Grounds: Ulyſſes here the Blood of Victims ſhed, And rais'd the pale Aſſembly of the Dead . Oft in the Winds is heard a plaintive Sound Of melancholy Ghoſts that hover round : The lab'ring Plow -man oft with Horror ( pies Thin airy Shapes that o'er the Furrows riſe, ( A dreadful Scene ! ) and skim before his Eyes. I know there is nothing more undetermined among the Learned than the Voyage of Ulyſes ; ſome con fining it to the Mediterranean, others extending it to the great Ocean, and others afcribing it to a World of the Poet's own making ; tho' his Converſations with the Dead are generally ſuppoſed to have been in the Narbon Gaul. } Incultos adiit Laftrigonas Antiphatenque, &c. Atque hæcfeu noftras interſunt cognita terras, Fabula five navum dedit his Erroribus Orbem . Tibul. Lib. iv. Eleg. i . v. 59. Uncertain whether, by the Winds convey’d, On real Seas to real Shores he ſtray'd ; Os, Monaco, Genoa, &c. 15 Or, by the Fable driv'n from Coaſt to Coaſt, In new imaginary Worlds was loft. The next Day we again ſet ſail, and made the beſt of our way 'till we were forced, by contrary Winds, into St. Remo, a very pretty Town in the Genoefe Dominions. The Front to the Sea is not large; but there are a great many Houſes behind it, built up the Side of the Mountain to avoid the Winds and Vapours that come from Sea. We here ſaw ſeveral Perſons that in the midft of Deo cember had nothing over their Shoulders but their Shirts, without complaining of the Cold . It is cer tainly very lucky for the poorer ſort to be born in a Place that is free from the greateſt Inconvenience, to which thoſe of our Northern Nations are ſubject ; and indeed, without this natural Benefit of their Climates, the extreme Miſery and Poverty that are in moſt of the Italian Governments would be in ſupportable. There are at St. Remo many Planta tions of Palm -trees, that do not grow in other Parts of Italy. We failed from hence directly for Ge noa ; and had a fair Wind that carried us into the middle of the Gulph, which is very remarkable for Tempeſts and Scarcity of Fiſh . It is proba ble one may be the Cauſe of the other, whether it be that the Fiſhermen cannot employ their Art with ſo much Succeſs in ſo troubled a Sea, or that the Filh do not care for inhabiting fuch ſtormy Waters : -Atrum Defendens piſceshiemat mare - Hor. Sat. ii . lib.ii.v.16 While black with Storms that ruffled Ocean rolls, And from the Fiſher's Art defends her Finny Sholes. В 2 We 16 Monaco, Genoa , &c. We were forced to lie in it two Days, and our Cap tain thought his Ship in fo great Danger, that he fell upon his Knees, and confeſsed himſelf to a Capu cin who was on board with us. But at laſt, taking the Advantage of a Side-wind, we were driven back in a few Hours time as far as Monaco. Lucan has given us a Deſcription of the Harbour that we found ſo very welcome to us, after the great Danger we had eſcaped. Quaquefub Herculeo Sacratus nomine portus Urgét rupe cava pelagus: non Corus in illum Jus habet aut Zephyrus : Solus fua littora turbat Circius, & tutáprohibet ſtatione Monaci. Lib. i. V. 405 . The winding Rocks aſpacious Harbour frame, That from the great Alcides takes -its Name : Fenc'd to the Weſt and to the North it lies ; But when the Winds in Southern Quarters riſe, Ships, from their Anchors torn , becometheir Sport, And ſudden Tempeſts rage within the Port. On the Promontory, where the Town of Monaco now ſtands, was formerly the Temple of Hercules Monacus, which ſtill gives the Name to this ſmall Principality. Aggeribus focer Alpinis atque arce Monaci Defcendens Virg. Æn, vi. v. 830, From Alpine Heights, and from Monæcus' Fane, The Father firſt deſcends into the Plain . There are but three Towns in the Dominions of the Prince of Monaco. The chief of them is ſituate on a Rock which runs out into the Sea, and is well fortified Monaco, Genoa, & c . 17 fortified by Nature. It was formerly under the Protection of the Spaniard , but not many Years ſince drove out the Spaniſh Garriſon , and received a French one, which conſiſts at preſent of five hundred Men, paid and officer'd by the French King. The Officer, who ſhewed me the Palace, told me, with agreat deal of Gravity , that his Maſter and the King ofFrance, amidſt all the Confuſionsof Europe, had ever been good Friends and Allies. The Palace has handſom Apartments, that are many of them hung with Pictures of the reigning Beauties in the Court of France. But the beſt of the Furniture was at Rome, where the Prince of Monaco reſided at that time Ambaſſador. We here took a little Boat te creep along theSea -ſhore as far as Genoa ; but at Sa vona, finding the Sea too rough, we were forced to make the beit of our way by Land, over very rug ged Mountains andPrecipices : For this Road ismuch more difficult than that over Mount Cennis. The Genoefe are eſteemed extremely Cunning, In duftrious, and inur'd to Hardſhip above the reſt of the Italians ; which was likewiſe the Character of the old Ligurians. And indeed it is no wonder, while the Barrenneſs of their Country continues, that the Manners of the Inhabitants do not change : Since there is nothing makes Men ſharper, and ſets their Hands and Wits more at work, than Want. 'The Italian Proverb ſays of the Genoeſe, that they have a Sea without Fiſh , Land without Trees, and Men without Faith. The Character the Latin Poets have given of them is not much different. Afuetumque malo Ligurem . Virg. Georg. ii, v. 168, The hard Ligurians, a laborious kind. B 3 Pero 18 Monaco, Genoa, &c. Pernix Ligur. Sil. Ital. El. 8 . The Swiſt Ligurian. Fallaces Ligures. Aufon . Eid. The Deceitful Ligurians. 12 . Apenninicola bellator filius Auni Haud Ligurum extremus, dum fallerefatafinebant. Virg. Æn. xi. v. 700 . Yet, like a true Ligurian, born to cheat, { At leaſt whilft Fortune favour'd his Deceit) Dryden . Vane Ligur, fruftraque animis elate ſuperbis, Nequicquam patrias tentafti lubricus artes. Id . ib . v. 715 Vain Fool and Coward, cries the lofty Maid, Caught in the Train which thou thyſelf haſt laid, On others practiſe thy Ligurian Arts ; Thin Stratagems, andTricks of little Hearts Are loft on me; nor ſhalt thou ſafe retire, With vaunting Lies, to thy fallacious Sire . Dryden . There are a great many beautiful Palaces ſtanding along the Sea - ſhore on both ſides of Genoa, which make the Town appear much longer than it is , to thoſe that fail by it. The City itſelf_makes the nobleſt Show of any in the World. The Houſes are moſt of them painted on the Outſide; fo that they look extremely gay andlively ; beſides thatthey are eſteemed the higheſt in Europe, and ſtand very thick together. The New - Street is a double Range of Palaces from one End to the other, built with an excellent Fancy, and fit for the greateſt Princes to inhabit. I cannot however be reconciled to their manner Monaco, Genoa, & c. 19 manner of Painting ſeveral of the Genoefe Houfes. Figures, Perſpectives, or Pieces of Hiſtory, are cer tainly very ornamental, as they are drawn on many of the Walls, that would otherwiſe look too naked and uniform without them : But, inſtead of theſe, one often fees the Front of a Palace covered with painted Pillars of different Orders. If theſe were ſo many true columns of Marble ſet in their proper Architecture, they would certainly very much adorn the Places where they ſtand ; but as they are now , they only few usthat there is ſomething wanting , and that the Palace, which without theſe counter. feit Pillars would be beautiful in its kind , might have been more perfect by the Addition of ſuch as are real . The Front of the Villa Imperiale, at a Mile diſtance from Genoa, without any thing of this Paint upon it , conſiſts of a Doric and Corinthian Row of Pillars, and ismuch the handſomeſt of any I there faw . The Duke of Doria's Palace has the beſt Outſide of any in Genoa, as that of Durazzo is the beſt furniſh ed within . There is one Room in the firſt, that is hung with Tapeſtry, in which are wrought the Fi gures of the great Perſons that the Family has pro duced ; as perhaps there is no Houſe in Europe that can ſhow a longer Line of Heroes, that have ſtill acted for the Good of their Country. Andrew Doo ria has a Statue erected to him at the Entrance of the Doge's Palace, with the glorious Title of_Deli verer of the Commonwealth; and one of his Fami ly another , that calls him its Preſerver. In the Doge's Palace are the Rooms, where the great and little Council, with the two Colleges, hold their Af. femblies ; but as the State of Genoa is very poor, tho” feveral of its Members are extremely rich, ſo one may obſerve infinitely more Splendor and Magnifi cence in particular PerſonsHouſes, than in thoſe that B : 4 belong 20 Monaco, Genoa, &c. belong to the Public. But we find in moſt of the States of Europe, that the People Thow the greateſt Marksof Poverty, where theGovernors live in the greateſt Magnificence. The Churches are very fine, particularly that of the Annunciation , which looks wonderfully beautiful in the Inſide, all but one Cor ner of it being covered with Statues, Gilding, and Paint. A Man would expect, in ſo very ancient a Town ofItaly, to find ſomeconſiderable Antiquities; but all they have to ſhow of this nature is anold Roſtrum of a Roman Ship, that ſtands over the Door of their Arſenal. It is not above a Foot long, and perhaps would never have been thought the Beak of a Ship, had it not been found in ſo probable a Place as the Haven. It is all of Iron, faſhioned at the End like a Boar's Head ; as I have ſeen it repreſented on Medals, and on the Columna Roftrata in Rome. I ſaw at Genoa Signior Micconi's famous Collection of Shells, which, as Father Buonani the Jeſuit hasſince told me, is one of the beſt in Italy. I know nothing more remarkable in the Government of Genoa, than the Bank of St. George, made up of ſuch Branches of the Revenues, as have been ſet apart and appropri ated to the diſcharging of ſeveral Sums, that have been borrowed from private Perſons, during the Exi gencies of the Commonwealth . Whatever Inconve niences the State has laboured under, they have ne ver entertained a Thought of violating the Public Credit, or of alienating any part of theſe Revenues to other Uſes, than to what they have been thus affigned. The Adminiſtration of this Bank is for Life, and partly in the Hands of the chief Citizens, which givesthem a great Authority in the State, and apowerful Influence over the common People. This Bank is generally thought the greateſt Load on the Genoeſe, and the Managers ofit have been repreſented as Monaco, Genoa , &c. 21 as a ſecond kind of Senate, that break the Uniformi. ty of Government, and deſtroy in ſome meaſure the Fundamental Conſtitution of the State. It is , how. ever, very certain , that the People reap no ſmall Advantages from it, as it diftributes the Power among more particular Members of the Republic, and gives the Commons a Figure: So that it is no ſmall Check upon the Ariſtocracy, and may be one Reaſon why the Genoefe Senate carries it with greater Moderation towards their Subjects than the Venetian. It would have been well for the Republic of Ge noa , if ſhe had followed the Example of her Siſter of Venice, in not permitting her Nobles to make any Purchaſe of Lands or Houſes in the Dominions of a Foreign Prince . For at preſent, the greateſt among the Genoeſe, are in part Subjects to the Monarchy of Spain , by reaſon of their Eftates that lie in the Kingdom of Naples. The Spaniards tax them very highupon occafion , and are foſenſible of the Advan. tage this gives them over the Republic, that they will not ſuffer a Neapolitan to buy the Lands of a Genoeſe, who muſt find a Purchaſer among his own Countrymen , if he has a mind to ſell. For this reaſon, as well as on account of the great Sums of Money which the Spaniard owes the Genoeſe, they are under a Neceſſity, at preſent, of being in the In tereſt of the French, and would probably continue ſo, tho' allthe other States of Italy entered into a League againſt them. Genoa is not yet fecurt from a Bom bardment, tho' it is not ſo expoſed as formerly ; for, ſince the Inſult of the French, they have built a Mole, with ſome little Ports, and have provided themſelves with long Guns and Mortars. It is eaſy for thoſe that are Itrong at Sea to bring them to what Terms they pleaſe; for having but very little Arable Land, they are forced to fetch all their Corn from Naples, B 5 Sigily , 22 Monaco, Genoa, & c , Sicily, and other Foreign Countries; except what comes to them from Lombardy, which probably goes another way , whilft it furniſhes two great Armies with Proviſions. Their fleet, that formerly gained fo many Victories over the Saracens, Pifans, Vene tians, Turks, and Spaniards, that made them Maf ters of Crete, Sardinia , Majorca, Minorca , Negre pont, Lesbos, Malta , that ſettled them in Scio, Smyrna, Achaia, Theodofia, and ſeveral Towns on the Eaſtern Confines of Europe, is now reduc'd to fix Gallies. When they had made an Addition of but four new ones, the King of France ſent his Ore ders to ſuppreſs them , telling the Republic at the fame time, that he knew very well how many they had Occaſion for. This little Fleet ſerves only to fetch them Wine and Corn, and to give their Ladies an Airing in the Summer ſeaſon . The Republic of Genoa has a Crown and Scepter for its Doge, by reaſon of their Conqueſt of Corſica, where there was. formerly a Saracen King. This indeed gives their Ambaſſadors a more honourable Reception at ſome Courts, but, at the ſame time, may teach their People to have a mean Notion of their own Form of Government, and is a. tacit Acknowledgment that Monarchy is the more honourable. The old Romans, on the contrary, made uſe of a very barbarous kind. of Politics to inſpire their People with a Contempt of Kings, whom they treated with Infamy, andi dragged at the Wheels of their triumphal Chariots .. PAVIA Р А V 1 A , M L L A N , & c . ROM Genoa we took Chaiſe for Milan, and by the Way ſtopped at Pavia, that was once the Metropolis of a Kingdom , but is at preſent a poor Town. We here ſaw the Convent of Auſtin Monks, who about three Years ago , pretended to have found out the Body of the Saint that gives the Name to their Order. King Luitprand, whoſe Aſhes are in the ſame Church , brought hither the Corps, and was very induftrious to conceal it, left it might be abuſed by the barba rous Nations, which at that time ravaged Italy. One would therefore rather wonder that it has not been found out much earlier, than that it is diſco ver'd at laſt. The Fathers however do not yet find their Account in the Diſcovery they have made ; for there are Canons Regular, who have half the ſame Church in their Hands, that will by no means allow it to be the Body of the Saint, nor is it yet recogniſed by the Pope. The Monks fay for themſelves, that the very Name was written on the Urn where the Aſhes lay, and that , in an old Record of the Convent, they are ſaid to have been interred 24 Pavia, Milan, &c. interred between the very Wall and the Altar where they were taken up. They have already too , as the Monks told us, begun to juſtify themſelves by Mira cles. At the Corner of one of the Cloiſters of this Convent are bury'd the Duke ofSuffolk, and the Duke of Lorrain, who were both killed in the famous Battle of Pavia. Their Monument was erected to them by one Charles Parker, an Eccleſiaſtic, as I learned from the Inſcription , which I cannot omit tranſcribing, ſince I have not ſeen it printed . Capto a Milite Caſareo Franciſco 1. Gallorum Rege in agro Papienfi Anno 1525. 23. Feb. inter alios proceres, qui ex ſuis in proelio occiſiſunt, occu buerunt duo illuftrilimi principes , Franciſcus Dux Lotharingiaet Richardus de la Poole Anglus Dux Suffolciea Rege Tyranno Hen. VIII. pulſus regno. Quorum corpora hoc in coenobio et ambitu per An nos 57. fine honore tumulata ſunt. Tandem Cara lus Parker a Morley, Richardi proximus conſan guineus, Regno Anglia a Regina Elizabeth â ob'Ca tholicam fidem ejectus, beneficentiâ tamen Philippi Regis Cath. Hiſpaniarum Monarchæ Invictiſſimi in Statu Mediolanenſi fuftentatus, hoc qualecunque mo numentum, pro rerum fuarum tenuitate, chariſſimo propinquo et illuſtriſſimis principibus poſuit, 5. Sept. 1582. et poft fuum exilium 23. majora et honorifi centiora commendans Lotharingicis. Viator precare Quietem . Francis the ift, King of France, being taken Priſoner by the Imperialiſts, at the Battle of Pavia , February the 23d 1525, among other Noblemen who died in the Field , were two moſt illuſtrious Princes, Francis Duke of Lorrain, and Richard de la Poole, an Engliſhman, Duke of Suffolk, who had been baniſhed by the Tyrant King Henry the Eighth Pavia, Milan, &c. 25 Eighth . Their Bodies lay buried, withour Honour Fifty -ſeven Years in this Convent. At length , Charles Parker of Morley, a near Kinſman of the DukeofSuffolk, whohad been baniſh'd from England by QueenElizabeth for the Catholic Faith , and was ſupported in the Milaneſe by the Bounty of the Catholic King Philip, the invincible Monarch of Spain , erected this Monument, the beſt his flender Abilities could afford, to his moſt dear Kinſman , and theſe moft illuſtrious Princes, recommending a better and more honourable one to theLorrainers. Paſſenger, pray for their Soul's Repoſe. This pretended Duke of Suffolk was Sir Richard de la Poole, Brother to the Earl of Suffolk , who was put to death by Henry the Eighth . In his Baniſhmenthe took upon him the Titleof Duke of Suffolk , which had been funk in the Family ever fince the Attainder of the Great Duke of Suffolk under the Reign of Henry the Sixth. Hefought very bravely in the Battle of Pavia, and was magnifi cently interr'd by the Duke of Bourbon, who , tho' an Enemy, affifted at his Funeral in Mourning. Parker himſelf is buried in the fame Place, with the following Inſcription . D. 0. M. Carolo Parchero a Morley Anglo ex illuſtriſſimå clariſſimaftirpe. Qui Epifcopus def. ob fidem Ca tholicam actus in Exilium . An.xxxi.peregrinatus ab Invi&tifſ: Phil. Rege Hiſpano honeftifimis pietatis &go conftantia premiis ornatus moritur Anno a parts Virginis, M. D. C. XI . Men. Septembris. To the Memory of Charles Parker of Morley, an Engliſhman, of a moft Noble and Illuſtrious Family; who , 26 Pavia, Milan, &c. 1 who, a Biſhop ele&t, being baniſh'd for the Catholic Faith , and , in the Thirty - firſt Year of his Exile, honourably rewarded for his Piety and Conftancy by the moſt invincible Philip King of Spain , died in September 1611 . . In Pavia is an Univerſity of Seven Colleges, one of them called the College ofBorromee, very large, and neatly built. There is likewiſe a Statue in Braſs , of Marcus Antoninus on Horſeback , which the People of the Place call Charles the Fifth , and fome learned Men Conftantine the Great. Pavia is the Ticinum of the Ancients, which took its Name from the River Ticinus, which runs by it, and is now called the Teſin . This Riverfalls into the Po, and is exceffively rapid. The Biſhop of Salisbury fays, that he ran down with the Stream thirty Miles in an Hour, by the help of but one Rower. I do not know therefore why Silius Italicus has repreſented it as ſo very gentle and ſtill a River , in the beautiful Deſcription he has given us of it . Cæruleas Ticinus aquas et Stagna vadóſa: Perſpicuus fervat, turbari neſcia, fundo, Ac nitidumviridi lentè trahit amne liquorem ;; Vix credas labi, ripis tam mitis opacis Argutos inter ( volucrum certamina) cantus Somniferam ducit lucenti gurgite lympham . Lib. iv. Smooth and untroubled the Ticinus flows, And through the Cryſtal Stream the ſhining Bottom ſhows : Scarce can the Sight diſcover if it moves ; So wond'rous Now, amidſt the ſhady Groves, And tuneful Birds that warble on its Sides , Within its gloony Banks the limpid Liquor glides.' A Pavia, Milan, & c . 27 A Poet of another Nation would not have dwelt fo long upon the Clearneſs and Tranſparency of the Stream ; but in Italy one ſeldom ſees a River that is extremely bright and limpid , moſt of them falling down from the Mountains, that make their Waters very troubled and muddy ; whereas the Tefin is only an Outlet of that valt Lake , which the Italians now callthe LagoMaggiore. I ſaw between Pavia and Milan the Convent of Carthufians, which is very ſpacious and beautiful. Their Church is extremely fine, and curioully adorned , but of a Gothic Structure. I could not ftay long in Milan without going to fee the Great Church that I had heard ſo much ofg, but was never more deceived in my Expectation than at my firſt entering : For the Front, which was all I had ſeen of the Outſide, is not half finiſh'd, and the Inſide is ſo ſmutted with Duft and the Smoke of Lamps, that neither the Marble, nor the Silver, nor Braſs- Work Thew themſelves to an Advantage. This vaſt Gothic Pile of Building is all of Marble, except the Roof, which would have been of the ſame Matter with the reſt, had not its . Weight render'd it improper for that part of the Building. But for the Reaſon I havejuſt now men tion'd , the Outſide of the Church looks much : whiter and freſher than the Inſide ; for where the Marble is ſo often waſh'd with Rains, it preſerves itſelf more beautiful and unſullied, than in thofe Parts that are not at all expoſed to the Weather.. That Side of the Church indeed, which faces the ' Tramontane-Wind, is much more unſightly than the reſt, by reaſon of the Duft and Smoke that are driven againſt it. This Profufion of Marble, tho' aſtoniſhing to Strangers, is not very wondertul in a Country that has ſo many Veins of it within its 1 28 Pavia, Milan , & c . its Bowels. But tho' the Stones are cheap, the working of themis very expenſive. It is generally ſaid there are eleven thouſand Statues about the Church ; but they reckon into the Accountevery particular Figure in the Hiſtory -pieces, and ſeveral little Images which make up the Equipageof thoſe that are larger. There are indeed a great Multitude of ſuch as are bigger than the Life: I reckoned about two hundred andfifty on the outſide of the Church, tho’I only told three sides of it ; and theſe are not half ſo thick ſet as they intend them. The Statues are all of Marble, and generally well cut; but the moſt valuable one they have is a St. Bartholomew , new - flead , with his Skin hanging over his Shoul ders : It is eſteemed worth its Weight in Gold : They have inſcribed this Verſe on the Pedeſtal, to ſhow the Value they have for the Workman : Non me Praxiteles,ſed Marcus finxit Agrati. Leſt at the Sculptor doubtfully you gueſsy. ' Tis Marc Agrati, not Praxiteles. There is, juſt before the Entrance of the Quire, a little Subterraneous Chapel dedicated to St. Charles Borromee, where I ſaw his Body,in Epiſcopal Robes, lying upon the Altar in a Shrine of Rock -Cryſtal. His Chapel is adorned with abundance of Silver Work : ' He was but two and twenty Years old when he was choſen Archbiſhop of Milan, and forty -fix at his Death ; but made ſo good uſe of ſo ſhort a time, by his Works of Charity and Muni ficence, that his Countrymen bleſs his Memory, which is ſtill freſh amongthem. He was canonized about a hundred Years ago : and indeed if this Ho nour were due to any Man , I think fuch Public ſpirited Pavia, Milan, & c . 29 fpirited Virtues may lay a juſter Claim to it, than a ſour Retreat from Mankind, a fiery Zeal againſt Heterodoxies, a Set of Chimerical Viſions, or of Whimſical Penances, which are generally the Qualifications of Roman Saints. Miracles indeed are required of all who aſpire to this Dignity, be . cauſe, they ſay, an Hypocrite may imitate a Saint in all other Particulars, and theſe they attribute in great Number to him I am ſpeaking of. His Merit and the Importunity of his Countrymen procured his Canonization before the ordinary time ; for it is the Policy of the Roman Church not to al low this Honour, ordinarily, ' till fifty Years after the Death of the Perſon , who is Candidate for it ; in which time it may be ſuppoſed that all his Con temporaries will be worn out, who could contra dict a pretended Miracle, or remember any Infir mity of the Saint. One would wonder that Roman Catholics, who are for this kind of Worſhip , do not generally addreſs themſelves to the Holy Apof tles, who have a more unqueſtionable Right to the Title of Saints than thoſe of a modern Date ; but theſe are at preſent quite out of Faſhion in Italy, where there is ſcarce a great Town, which does not pay its Devotions, in a more particular manner, to ſome one of their own making. This renders it very ſuſpicious, that the Interefts of particular Families, religious Orders, Convents, or Churches, have too great a Sway in their Cano nizations. When I was at Milan I ſaw a Book newly publiſhed, that was Dedicated to the preſent Head of the Borromean Family , and intitled, A Diſcourſe on the Humility of Jeſus Chriſt, and of St. Charles Borromee. The Great Church of Milan has two noble Pula pits of Braſs, each of them running round a large Pillar , 30 Pavia, Milan, &c. Pillar , like a Gallery, and ſupported by huge Fi gures of the fame Metal. The Hiſtory of our Sa viour, or rather of the bleſſed Virgin( for it begins with her Birth , and ends with her Coronation in Heaven, that of our Saviour coming in by way of Epiſode) is finely cut in Marble by Andrew Biffy. This Church is very rich in Relics, which run up as high as Daniel, Jonas, and Abraham . Among the reſt they fhow a Fragment of our Countryman Becket, as indeed there are very few Treafuries of Relics in Italy that have not a Tooth or a Bone of this Saint. It would be endleſs to count up the Riches of Silver , Gold , and Precious Stones, that are amaſs'd together in this and ſeveral other Churches of Milan . I was told , that in Milan there are fixty Convents of Women , eighty of Men, and two hundred Churches . At the Celeſtines is a Picture in Freſco of the Marriage of Cana; very much eſteemid ; but the Painter, whether deſigned ły or not, has put fix fingers to the Hand of one of the Figures : They ſhow theGates of a Church that St. Ambroſe fhut againſt the Emperor Theodo fius, as thinking him unfit to affift at Divine Ser vice, 'till he had done ſome extraordinary Penance for his barbarous maſſacring the Inhabitantsof Thef falonica. That Emperor was however fo far from being diſpleas'd with the Behaviour of the Saint, that at his Death he committed to him the Educa tion of his Children . Several have pick'd Splinters of Wood out of the Gates for Relics. There is a little Chapel lately re-edify'd , where the ſame Saint baptis'd St. Auftin. An Inſcription upon the Wall of it ſays, that it was in this Chapel, and on this Occafion, that he firſt ſung his Te Deum, and that his great Convert anſwerd him Verſe by Verſe. In one of the Churches I ſaw a Pulpit and Cone feſſional, Pavia, Milan, &c. 31 feſſional, very finely inlaid with Lapis Lazuli, and feveral kinds of Marble, by a Father of the Con vent. It is very lucky for a Religious, who has fo much time on his hands, to be able to amuſe himſelf with Works of this nature ; and one often finds particular Members of Convents, who have excellent mechanical Genius's, and divert them felves, at leiſure Hours, with Painting, Sculpture, Architecture, Gardening, and feveral kinds of Han dicrafts. Since I have mention'd Confeſſionals, I ſhall ſet down here fome Inſcriptions that I have ſeen over them in Roman Catholic Countries, which are all Texts of Scripture, and regard either the Penitent or the Father. Abi, oftende te ad Sacerdotem Ne taceat pupilla oculi tui lbo ad Patrem meum & dicam , Pater peccavi Soluta erunt in Cælis Re 'di Anima mea in Requiem tuam Vade, & ne deinceps pecca Qui vos audit, me audit Venite ad me omnes qui fatigati eſtis E. onerati Corripiet me juftus inmiſericordia Vide fa via Iniquitatis in me eft, &de duc me in viâ eterna Ut audiret gemitus compeditorum . i.e. Go thy way, ſhew thyſelf to the Prieſt. Matth. viii. 4. Let not the Apple of thine Eye ceaſe. Lam . ii . 18 .--- I will go to my Father, and will ſay unto him, Father, I have finned. Luke xv. 18. Shall be looſed in Hea ven . Matth . xvi. 19 . Return unto thyReſt, O my Soul. Pſal. cxvi. 7. Go, and fin no more. John.viii.11 . He that heareth you, heareth me. Luke x. 16. Come unto me, all ye that labour and are heavy laden. Matth. xi . See if there be any wicked way in me, and lead me in the way everlaſting. Pſal. cxxxix . 24 . To hear the groaning of the Priſoners. Pfal. 28. 32 Pavia, Milan, &c. Pſal. cii . 20. I ſaw the Ambrofian Library, where, to thew the Italian Genius, they have ſpent more Money on Pictures than on Books. Among the Heads of ſeveral learned Men, I met with no Engliſhmen, except Biſhop Fiſher, whom Henry the Eighth put to Death for not owning. his Su premacy. Books are indeed the leaſt Part of the Furniture that one ordinarily goes to ſee in an Ita . lian Library, which they generally ſet off with Pictures, Statues, and other Ornaments, where they can afford them , after the Example of the old Greeks and Romans. -Plena omnia gypso Chryfippi invenias : nam perfectiſſimus horum eſt, Si quis Ariftotelem fimilem vel Pittacon emit, Et jubet archetypos pluteumfervare Cleanthas. Juv. Sat ii. v. 4: Chryfippus' Statue decks thy Library. Whomakes his Study fineſt, is moſt read ; The Dolt that with an Ariftotle's Head , Carv'd to the Life, has once adorn'd his Shelf, Straight ſets up for a Stagirite himſelf. Tate. In an Apartment behind the Library are ſeveral Rarities, often deſcrib'd by Travellers, as Bru geal's Elements, a Head of Titian by his own Hand, a Manuſcript in Latin of Joſephus, which the Biſhop of Salisbury ſays was written aboutthe Age of Theodofius, and another of Leonardus Vine cius, which King James the Firſt could not pro cure, tho' he proffer'd for it three thouſand Spanih Piſtoles. It conſiſts of Deſignings in Mechaniſm and Engineering. I was ſhewn in it a Sketch of Bombs and Mortars, as they are now uſed. Canon Settala's Cabinet is always ſhewn to a Stranger among Pavia, Milan, & c . 33 among the Curioſities of Milan, which I ſhall not be particular upon , the printed Account of it be ing common enough. Among its natural Curioſi ties, I took particular notice of a piece of Cryſtal, that inclos’d a couple of Drops, which look'd like Water when theywere taken, tho' perhaps they are nothing but Bubbles of Air. It is ſuch a Ra. rity as this that I ſaw at Vendome in France, which they there pretend is a Tear that our Saviour ſhed over Lazarus, and was gather'd up by an Angel, who put it in a little Cryſtal Vial, and made a Preſent of it to Mary Magdalene. The famous Pere Mabillon is now engaged in the Vindication of this Tear, which a learned Eccleſiaſtic, in the Neighbourhood of Vendome, would have ſuppreſſed, as a falſe and ridiculous Relic, in a Book that he has dedicated to his Dioceſan the Biſhop of Blois. It is in the Poſſeſſion of a Benedictin Convent, which raiſes a conſiderable Revenue out of the De votion that is paid to it, and has now retained the moſt learned Father of their Order to write in its Defence . It was ſuch a Curioſity as this I have mention'd, that Claudian has celebrated in about half a Score Epigrams : Solibus indomitum glacies Alpina rigorem Sumebat, nimio jam precioſa gelu . Nec potuit toto mentiri corpore gemmam , Sed medio manfit proditor orbe latex : Auftus honor ; liquidi creſcunt miracula jaxi, Et conſervate plus meruiftis aquæ .. Deep in the ſnowy Alps a Lump of Ice By Froſts was harden'd to a mighty Price ; Proof 34 Pavia, Milan, & c. Proof to the Sun, it now ſecurely lies, And the warm Dog -ſtar's hotteſt Rage defies : Yet ftill, unripen'd in the dewy Mines, Within the Ball a trembling Water Phines, That through the Cryſtal darts its ſpurious Rays, And the proudStone's Original betrays : But common Drops, whenthus with Cryſtal mixt, Are valu'd more, than if in Rubies fixt . As I walk'd thro' one of the Streets of Milan, I was ſurpris’d to read the following Inſcription , concerning a Barber, that had conſpired with the Commiffary of Health and others to poiſon his Fel low - Citizens. There is a void Space where his Houſe ftood, and in the midſt of it a Pillar, fuper ſcribed Colonna Infame. The Story is told in hand fom Latin, which Iſhall ſet down, as having never ſeen it tranſcribed . 2 Hic, ubi bæc Area patens eft, Surgebat olim Tonfitrina Yo' Jacobi More : Qui faétâ cum Gulielmo Platea publ. Sanit. Com . miſſario Et cum aliis Conſpiratione, Dum peftis atrox ſeviret, Lethiferis unguentis huc & illuc afperfis Plures addiram mortem compulit . Hos igitur ambos, hoſtes patrie judicatos, Excelſo in plauſtro Candenti prius vellicatos forcipe Et dexter â mul&tatos many Rota infringi Rotæque intextos poſt horas ſex jugulari, Comburi deinde, Aci Pavia, Milan, &c. 35 2" 3 70 72 Ac, ne quid tam Sceleftorum hominum reliqui fit , Publicatis bonis Cineres in flumen projici Senatus juffit : Cujus rei memoria æterna ut ſit, Hanc domum , Sceleris officinam , Solo aquari, Ac nunquam in poſterum refici, Et erigi Columnain , Que vocatur Infamis, Idem ordo mandavit. Procul.hinc procul ergo Boni Cives, Ne Vos Infelix , Infame folum Commaculet ! M. D. C. xxx. Cal. Augufti. Præfide Pub. Sanitatis M. AntonioMontio Senatore R. Juftitiæ Cap. Jo. Baptiſta Vicecomit. In this void Space ftood formerly the Barber's Shop of John James Mora , who, having conſpired with William . Platea, the Commiſſary of Health , and others, during the time of a raging Plague, de ſtroy'd the Livesof a great number of Citizens by diſperſing poiſonous Drugs. The Senate therefore order'd them both , as Enemies of their Country, to be broke on the Wheel, their Fleſh being firſt torn with red - hot pincers, and their right Hands cut off ; and, after lying fix Hours on the Wheel, their Throats to be cut, and their Bodies burn'd ; and, that there might be no Remains of fuch wicked Men , their Goods to be plunder'd , and their Aſhes thrown into the River : And, to perpetuate the Me mory of this Tranſaction , the Houſe, in which the Villany was contrived, was order'd to be pullid down to the Ground, and never to be rebuilt ; and 36 Pavia, Milan, & c . and a Column to be raiſed on the Spot, callid The Infamous. Flyfrom hence, good citizens, left the wretched and infamous Soil infect you. Aug. 1 , 1630, M. Anthony Monthius, the Senator, Com miſſary of Health , & c . The Citadel of Milan is thought a ſtrong Fort in Italy, and has heldout formerly afterthe Conqueſt of the reſt of the Dutchy. The Governor of it is independent on the Governor of Milan ; as the Per fians uſed to makethe Rulers of Provinces and For treffes of different Conditions and Intereſts, to pre vent Conſpiracies. At two Miles diſtance from Milan, there ſtands a Building, that would have been a Mafter-piece in its kind, had the Architect deſignd it for an artifi cial Echo. We diſcharg'd a Piſtol, and had the Sound return’d upon us above fifty- ſix times, tho' the Air was very foggy. The firſt Repetitions follow one another very thick, but are heard more diftinct ly in proportion as they decay : There are two pa rallel Walls, which beat the Sound back on each other, till the Undulation is quite worn out; like the ſeveral Reverberations of the fameImage from two oppoſite Looking - glaſſes. Father Kircher has taken notice of this particular Echo, as Father Bartolin has done ſince in his ingenious Diſcourſe on Sounds. The State of Milan is like a vaſt Garden , furround ed by a noble Moundwork of Rocks and Moun tains. Indeed, if a Man conſiders the Face of Italy in general, one would think that Nature had laid it out into ſuch a Variety of States and Govern ments as one finds in it . For as the Alps at one end, and the long Range of Apennines, that paſſes through the Body of it,branch out on all ſides into ſeveral different Diviſions ; they ſerve as ſo many na. tural ) Pavia, Milan, & c . 37 tural Boundaries and Fortifications to the little Ter ritories that lie among them . Accordingly we find the whole Country cut into a multitude of parti cular Kingdoms and Commonwealths in the oldeſt Accounts we have of it, 'till the Power of the Roc mans, like a Torrent that overflows its Banks, bore down all before it, and ſpread itſelf into the re moteft Corners of the Nation . But as this exorbi tant Power became unable to fupport itſelf, we find the Government of Italy again broken into ſuch a Variety of Sub -diviſions, as naturally ſuits with its Situation . In ' the Court of Milan, as in ſeveral others of Italy, there are many who fall in with the Dreſs and Carriage of the French. One may however obferve a kind of aukwardneſs in the Italians, which eaſily diſcovers the Airs they give themſelves not to be natural. It is indeed very ſtrange there ſhould be ſuch a diverſity of Manners, when there is fo ſmall a difference in the Air and Climate. The French are always open , familiar, and talkative : The Italians, on the contrary , are ſtiff, ceremo nious, and reſerved. In France every one aiins at a Gaiety and Sprightlineſs of Behaviour, and thinks it an Accompliſhment to be brisk and lively : The Italians, notwithſtanding their natural Fierineſs of Temper, affect always to appear ſober and ſedate ; inſomuch that onc ſometimes meets Young Men walking the Streets with Spectacles on their Noſes, that they may be thought to have impaired their Sight by much Study, and ſeem more Grave and Judicious than their Neighbours. This Difference of Manners proceeds chiefly from Difference of Education . In France it is uſual to bring their Chil dren into Company, and to cheriſh in them , from с their 38 Pavia, Milan, &c. their Infancy, a kind of Forwardneſs and 'Afſu rance : Beſides, that the French apply themſelves more univerſallyto theirExerciſes than any other Nation in the World, ſo that one ſeldom fees a young Gentleman in France that does not Fence , Dance, and Ride in ſome tolerable Perfection . Theſe Agitations of the Body do not only give them a free and eaſy Carriage, but have a kind of Mechanical Operation on the Mind, bykeeping the Animal Spirits always awake and in Motion . But what contributes moſt to this light airy Hu mour of the French, is the free Converſation that is allowed them with their Women, which does not only communicate to them a certain Viva city of Temper, but makes them endeavour af ter ſuch a Behavionr as is moſt taking with the Sex. The Italians, on the contrary, who are excluded from making their Court this way, are for recom mending themſelvestothoſe they converſewith by their Gravity and Wiſdom . In Spain therefore, where there are fewer Liberties of this Nature als lowed , there is ſomething ſtill more ſerious and compoſed in the Manner of the Inhabitants. But as Mirth is more apt to make Proſelytes than Me lancholy, it is obſerved that the Italians have many of them for theſe late Years given very far into the Modes and Freedoms of the French ; which prevail more or leſs in the Courts of Italy, as they jie at a ſmaller or greater Diſtance from France. be here worth while to conſider how it comes to paſs, that the common People of Italy have in general ſo very great an Averſion to the French, which everyTraveller cannot but be ſenſible of, that has paſſed through the Country. The moſt obvious It may Pavia, Milan, & c . 39 obrious Reaſon is certainly the great Difference that there is in the Humours and Manners of the two Nations, which always works more in the meaner Sort , who are not able to vanquiſh the Prejudices of Education, than with the Nobility. Beſides, that the French Humour, in regard of the Liberties they take in Female Converſations, and their great Am bition to excel in all Companies, is in a more parti cular manner very ſhocking to the Italians, who are naturally Jealous, and value themſelves upon their great Wiſdom . At the fame time, the common People of Italy, who run more into News and Po liticks than thoſe of other countries, have all of them ſomething to exaſperate them againſt the King of France, The Savoyards, notwithſtanding the preſent Inclinations of their Court, cannot forbear reſenting the infinite Miſchiefs he did them in the laft War. The Milaneſe and Neapolitans remem ber " the many Inſults he has offer'd to the Houſe of Auſtria, and particularly to their deceaſed King, for whom theyftill retain a natural kind of Ho nour and Affeétion. The Genoefe cannot forget his Treatment oftheir Doge, and his bombarding their City. The Venetians will tell you of his Leagues. with the Turks ; and the Romans of his Threats to Pope Innocentthe Eleventh , whoſe Memory they adore. It istrue, that Intereſtof State, and Change of Circumſtances, may have ſweetned theſe Reflec tions to the Politer Sort ; but Impreffions are not fo eaſily worn out of the Minds of the Vulgar. That however, which I taketo be the principal Motive among most of the Italians, for their favouring the Germans above the French , is this , that they are entirelyperfuadedit is for the Intereſt of Italy, to have Milan and Naples rather in the Hands of the Ca firſt, 40 . Pavia, Milan, & c . firſt, than of the other. One may generally ob ſerve, that the Body of a People has juſter Views for the Public Good , and purſues them with greater Uprightneſs than the Nobility and Gentry, who have ſo many private Expectations and particular Intereſts, which hang like a falſe Bias upon their Judgments, and may poſſibly diſpoſe them to fa crifice the Good of their Country to the Advance ment of their own Fortunes ; whereas the Groſs of the People can have no other Proſpect in 'Changes and Revolutions than of public Bleffings, that are to diffuſe themſelves thro ' the whole State in general. To return to Milan, I ſhall here ſet down the Deſcription Aufonius has given of it, among the reſt of his great Cities. Et Mediolani mira omnia, copia rerum : Innumera cultaque domus, facunda virorum Ingenia, et mores læti : Tum duplice muro Amplificata loci ſpecies, populiquevoluptas Gircus, et incluſi moles cuneata Theatri : Templa, Palatinæque arces, opulenſque Moneta , Et regio Herculei celebris ab honore lavacri, Cunctaque marmoreis ornata periſtyla Signis, Omnia quæ magnis operum velut emula formis Excellunt; nec juncta premit vicinia Rome. Milan with Plenty and with Wealth o'erflows, And num'rous Streets and cleanly Dwellings ſhows. The People, bleſs'd with Nature's happy Force, Are Eloquent and Chearful in Diſcourſe ; A Circus and a Theatre invites Tl'unruly Mob to Races and to Fights ; 3 Moneta Pavia, Milan, &c. 41 Moneta conſecrated Buildings grace , And the whole Town redoubled Walls embrace : Here ſpacious Baths and Palaces are ſeen , And intermingled Temples riſe between ; Here circling Colonnades the Ground inclofe, And here the marble Statues breathe in Rows : Profuſely grac'd the happy Town appears, Nor Rome itſelf, her beauteous Neighbour, fears.

Ccs3 BRESCIA, BRESCIA, V E R O N A р . А D U A ROM Milan wetravell'd thro ' a very pleaſant Country to Breſcia, and by F the way croſs'd the River Adda, that falls into the Lago di Como, which Virgil calls the LakeLarius, and run. ning out at the other End loſes itſelf at laſt in the Pe, which is the great Receptacle of all the Rivers of this Country . The Town and Province of Breſcia have freer Acceſs to the Senate of Venice, and a quicker Redreſs of Injuries, than any other Part of their Dominions. They have always a mild and prudent Governor, and live much more happily than their Fellow -Subjects: For as they were once a part of the Milaneſe, and are now on their Frɔntiers, the Venetians dare not exaſperate them , by the Loads they lay on other Provinces, for fear of a Revolt ; and are forced to treat them with more Indulgence than the Spaniards do their Neighbours, that they may have no Temptation to it. Brefcia is famous for its Iron -Works . A ſmall Day's Jour ney Breſcia, Verona, Padua. 1 43 ney more brought us to Verona. We faw the Lake Benacus in our way , which the Italians now call Lago di Garda : It was fo rough with Tempeſts when we paſs'd by it, that it brought into my mind Virgil's noble Deſcription of it. Adde lacus tantos , te Lari maxime, teque Fluctibus etfremitu afurgens, Benace, marino. Georg. ii, v. 159. Here vex'd by Winter Storms Benacus raves, Confus'd with working Sands and rolling Waves; Rough and tumultuous like a Sea it lies, So loud the Tempeſt roars, fo high the Billows riſe . This Lake perfectly reſembles a Sea, when it is work'd up by Storms. It is thirty-five Miles in length , and twelve in breadth . At the lower end of it we croſsd the Mincio. Tardis ingens ubi flexibus errat Mincius, et tenerâprætexit arundine ripato Virg. Georg. iii. v . 141 Where the flow Mincius thro ' the Valley ſtrays: Where cooling Streams invite the Flocks to drink , And Reeds defend the winding Waters Brink . Dryden . The River Adige runs thro ' Verona ; ſo much is the Situation of the Town chang'd from what it was in Silius Italicus his Time. Verona Athefi circumflua, Lib, viii. Verona by the circling Adige bound. C4 This 44 Breſcia, Verona, Padua. This is the only great River in Lombardy that does not fall into the Po ; which it muſt have done, had it run but a little further before its entering the Adriatic. The Rivers are all of them mention'd by Claudian. Venetoſqueerectior amnes Magna voce ciet. Frondentibus humida ripis Colla levant, pulcher Ticinus, et Addua viſu Cæruleus, velox Atheſis, tarduſque meatu Mincius, inque novem confurgens ora Timavus. Sexto Conſ. Hon , Venetia's Rivers, fummon'dall around , Hear the loud Call, and anſwer to the Sound ; Her dropping Locks the Silver Teffin rears ; The blue tranſparent Adda next appears ; The rapid Adige then erects her Head ; And Mincio riſing ſlowly from his Bed : And laſt Timavus, that with eager Force From nine wide Mouths comes guſhing to his Courſe. His Larius is doubtleſs an Imitation of Virgil's Benacus. Umbroså veftit quà littus Olivá Larius, et dulci mentitur Nerea flu tu . De Bel. Get. The Larius here with Groves of Olives crown'd , An Ocean of freſh Water ſpreads around. I ſaw at Verona the famous Amphitheatre, that with a few modern Reparations has all the Seats en tire. There is ſomething very noble in it, tho' the high Wall and Corridors that went round it areal moſt entirely ruined, and the Area is quite filled up Breſcia, Verona, Padua. 45 to the lower Seat, which was formerly deep enough to let the Spectators fee in Safety the Combats of the wild Beaſts and Gladiators. Since I have Claudian before me, I cannot forbear ſetting down the beauti ful Deſcription he has made of a wild Beaſt newly brought from the Woods, and making its firſt Ap pearance in a full Amphitheatre. 2 Ut fera que nuper montes amifit avitos, Altorumque exul nemorum , damnatur arena Muneribus, commota ruit ; vir murmure contra Hortatur, nixufque genu venabula tendit ; Illa pavet ftrepitus, cuneoſque erecta Theatri Deſpicit, et tanti miraturfibila vulgi. In Ruf.lib. ii. So ruſhes on his Foe the grilly Bear, That baniſh'd from the Hills and buſhy Brakes, His old hereditary Haunts forſakes. Condemn'd the cruel "Rabble to delight, His angry Keeper goads him to the Fight. Bent on his Knee, theSavage glares around, Scar'd with the mighty Crowd's promiſcuous Sound ; Then rearing on his hinder Paws retires, And the vaſt hiſſing Multitude admires. There are ſome other Antiquities in Verona, of which the principal is the Ruin of a Triumphal Arch erected to Flaminius, where one ſees old Doric Pillars without any Pedeſtal or Baſis, as Vitru vius has deſcribed them. I have not yet ſeen any Gardens in Italy worth taking notice of. The Italians fall as far ſhort of the French in this Par ticular, as they excel them in their Palaces. It muſt however be ſaid, to the Honour of the Italians, that the French took from them the firſt Plans of their Gardens, as well as of their Water.Works; ſo that C5 their 46 Breſcia, Verona, Paduá. their furpafling of them at preſent is to be attributed rather to the Greatneſs of their Riches, than the Ex cellence of their Tafte. I ſaw the Terrace -Garden ofVerona,that Travellersgenerally mention . Among the Churches of Verona , that of St. George is the handſomelt: Its chief Ornament is the Martyrdom of the Saint , diawn by Paul Veroneſe , as there are many other Pictures about the Town by the ſame Hand. A Stranger is always ſhown the Tomb of Pope Lucius, who lies buried in the Dome. I ſaw in the fame Church a Monument erected by the Public to one of their Biſhops: The Inſcription ſays, that there was between him and his Maker, Summa Neceffitudo, Summa Similitudo. The Italian Epitaphs are often more extravagant than thoſe of cther Countries, as the Nation is more given to Compliment and Hyperbole. From Verona to Pa dua we travelled thro' a very pleaſant Country : It is planted thick with Rows of white Mulberry -trees, that furniſh Food for great Quantities of Silk -worms with their Leaves, as the Swine and Poultry conſume the Fruit. The Trees themſelves ſerve at the ſame time, as ſo many Stars for their Vines, which hang all along like Garlands fromTree to Tree. Be tween the ſeveral Ranges lie Fields of Corn, which in theſe warm Countries ripens much better among the Mulberry Shades, than if it were expoſed to the open Sun. This was one Reaſon why the Inhabi tants of this Country, when I paſſed thro' it, were extremely apprehenſive of ſeeing Lombardy the Seat of War, which muſt have made miſerable Havock among their Plantations ; for it is not here as in the Corn Fields of Flanders, where the whole Produa of the Place riſes from Year to Year. We arrived fo late at Vicenza, that we had not time to take a full Sight of the place. The next Day brought us to Breſcia, Verona, Padua. 47 to Padua. St. Anthony, who lived about five hun dred Years ago, is the great Saint to whom they here pay their Devotions. He lies buried in the Church. that is dedicated to him at preſent, tho' it was for merly conſecrated to the Blefled Virgin. It is ex tremely magnificent, andvery richly adorned. There are narrow Clefts in the Monument that ſtands over him , where good Catholics rub their Beads, and ſmell his Bones, which they ſay have in them a na tural Perfume, tho' very like Apoplectic Balſam ; and what would make one ſuſpect that they rub the Marble with it , it is obſerved that the Scent is ſtronger in the Morning than at Night. There are abun dance of Inſcriptions and Pictures hung up by his Votaries in ſeveral Parts of the Church : For it is the way of thoſe that are in any ſignal Danger to implore his Aid , and if they come off fafe they call their Deliverance a Miracle, and perhaps hang up the Picture or Deſcription of it in the Church. This Cuftom ſpoils the Beauty of ſeveral Roman Catholic Churches, and often covers the Walls with wretched Daubings, impertinent Inſcriptions, Hands, Legs, and Arms of Wax, with a thouſand idle Offerings of the fame Nature. They fell at Padua the Life of St. Anthony, which is readwith great Devotion ; the moſt remarkable Part of it is his Diſcourſe to an Aſſembly of Fiſh . As the Audience and Sermon are both very extra ordinary, I will ſet down the whole Paſſage at length . Non curandogli Heretici ilſuo parlare, eglifi come era alla riva del mare , dove sbocca il fiumeMarec chia, chiamò da parte di Dio li peſci, cheveniſero à ſentir laſua fanta parola. Et ecco che di ſubitosopra l' acque nuotando gran moltitudine di varii, & diverfi peſci, e del mare, e del fiume, ſi unirono tutti, ſecondo 48 Breſcia, Verona, Padua . le ſpecie loro, e con bell ordine, quaſi che di ragion ca paci ftati foſſero, attenti, e cheti congratioſo pettaco. To s'accommodaro per ſentir la parola di Dio. Cid veduto il fanto entro al cuor ſuo di dolcezza ftillandofi, Eper altretanta maraviglia inarcando le ciglia, della obedientia di queſteirragionevoli creature cosi cominciò loro à parlare. Se bene in tutto le cose creaté ( cari, & amati peſci)fiſcuopere la potenza , & providenza infinita di Dio , como nel Cielo, nel Sole, nella Luna, nelle Stelle, in queſto mondo inferiore, nel huomo, & nelle altre creature perfetti , nondimeno in Viipartico larmente lampeggia e riſplende la bontà della maeſtà divina; perche ſe bene ſiete chiamati Rettili, mezzi frà pietre, e bruti ,.confinati nelli profondi abili delle ondeggiante acque : agitati ſempre da flutti : moli fem pre da procelle ;fordi al udire, mutolial parlare, & horridi al vedere; con tutto ciò in Voi maraviglioſam menteſi ſcorge la Divina grandezza ; edavoifi cava no la maggiori miſterii della bontà di Dio, ne mai parla di voi nella Scrittura Sacra, che non vi ſia aſcoſta. qualche profondo Sacramento ; Credete voi, che ſia Jenza grandiſſimno miſterio, che il primo dono fat to dall'omnipotente Iddio all' huomo folle di voi Peſci ? Credete voi che non ſia miſterio in queſto, che di tutte le creature, e di tutti gli animali fi fien fatti facrificii, eccetto, che divoi Peſci ? Credete, che non vi fia qualcheſecreto in queſto, che Chriſto noſtro ſal vatoredall' agnelo paſquale in poi, ficompiacque tanto del cibo di voi peſci ? Credete, che ſia à caſo queſto, che dovendo il Redentor del mond) , pagar, come huoa mo, il cenſo à Ceſare la voleſſe trovare nella bocca di un peſce ?' Tutti,tutti ſono miſteri e Sacramenti : per ciò fiete particolarmenteobligati a lodare il voſtro Crea. ture : amati peſci di Dio havete ricevuto l ' effere, la vita, li moto, e'l ſenſo; perftanza vi ha datoil liquido elemento dell' Acqua, ſecondo che alla voſtra naturale inclis Breſcia, Verona, Padua. 49 inclinatione conviene: ivi hà fatti ampliffimi alberghi, ftanze, caverne, grotte, e fecreti luogià voi più che fale Regie, e regal Palazzi, cari, e grati ; & per propriaſedehavetel' acqua, elemento diafano, tranſ parente, eſempre lucida quaſi criſtallo, e verro; & dalle più baſe, e profonde veſtre ſanzefcorgete ciò che sopra acquao fi fa,è nuota ; havete gli occhi quaſi di Lince, o di Argo, e da caufa non errante guidati, le guite ciò che vi giova , & aggrada; &fuggite ciò che vi nuoce, havete natural deſio di conſervarvi ſecondo leſpetie voſtre, faſe, oprate & caminate ovenatura vi dettaſenza contraftro alcuno ; nè algor d'inverno, nè calor difrate vi offende, ò nuoce : fiaſi perſereno, o turbato il cielo, che alli voſtri humidialberghi nè frutto, nè danno apporta ; fiaſi pure ribbondevole de ſuoi teſori, ò ſcarſa de ſuo frutti la terra, che a voi nulla gisva ; piova, tuoni, Saette, lampaggi, è ſubili il mondo, che avoi ciò poco importa ; verdeggi prinavera , ſcaldi la ſtate ,fruttifichi l' Autunno, &afſideri li in perna, queflo non vi rileva punto : ne trappaſſar del bore, nè correr de giorni, nè volar de meſi, nèfuggir , d'anni, nè mutar de tempi, nè cangiar deſtagioni vi dan penſiero alcuno, maſempreſicura, &tranquilla vita liatamente vivere : o quanto, o quanto grande la Maeſtà di Dio in voi fi ſcuopre , oquanto mirabile la potenza ſua ; o quanto ſtupenda, & maraviglioſa Ja ſua providenza ; poi che frà tutte le creature dell univerſo voi folo nonſentiſti il diluvio univerſale dell? acque ; nè provaſti i danni, che egli face al mondo ; e tuttoqueſto ch' ioho detto dovrebbe muovervi à lodar Dio, à ringratiarefua divina maeftà di tanti e coſi hingolari beneficii, che vi ha fatti , di tante gratie; che vi ha conferite ; di tanti favori, di che vi ha fatti degna ; per tanto, ſe non potete ſnodar la lingua å rin gratiar il voſtro Benefattore, & non ſapete con parole eſprimer le ſue lodi, fateleſegno di riverenza almeno; chie 50 Breſcia, Verona, Padua. chinatevi al ſuo nome ; moſtrate nel modo che potete ſembiante di gratitudine ;rendetevi benevoli alla bontà fua, in quel miglior modo che potete ; oſapete, non fiateſconoſcenti de fuoibeneficii , & non fiate ingrati deſuoifavori. A queſto dire, O maraviglia grande, come ſiquelli peſci haveſſero havuto humano intelletto, e diſcorſo, con geſti di profonda Humiltà, con riverenti fembianti di religione, chinarono la teſta, blandiro col corpo, quaſi approvando ciò che detto havea il benedetto padre St. Antonio. 6. Whenthe Heretics would not regard his Preach “ ing , he betook himſelf to the Sea- fhore, where s the River Marecchia diſembogues itſelf into the “ Adriatic. He here called the Fiſh together in the " Name of God, that they might hear his holy “ Word. The Fifh came ſwimming towardshim « in ſuch vaſt Shoals, both from the Sea and from " the River, that the Surface of the Water was “ quite covered with their Multitudes. They quick. “ ly ranged themſelves, according to their ſeveral “ Species, into a very beautiful Congregation , and , “ like ſo many rational Creatures, preſented them “ ſelves before him to hear the Word of God. St. “ Antonio was ſo ſtruck with the miraculous Obe « dience and Submiſſion of theſe poor Animals, that s he found a ſecret Sweetneſs diſtilling upon his « Soul , and at laſt addreſſed himſelf to them in the “ following Words. “ Althothe Infinite Power and Providence of “ God ( my dearly beloved Fiſh ) diſcovers itſelf in all the works of his Creation , as in the Heavens, " in the Sun, in the Moon, and in the Stars, in « this lower World, in Man, and in other perfect • Creatures ; nevertheleſs the Goodneſs of the Divine “ Majeſty Thines out in you more eminently, and appears after a more particular manner , than in any Breſcia, Verona, Padua. 51 " any other Created Beings. For notwithſtanding “ you are comprehended under the Name of Reptiles, « partaking of a middle Nature between Stones and “ Beaſts, and impriſoned in the deep Abyfs of Wa ters ; notwithſtanding you are toft among Billows, thrown up and down by Tempeſts, deaf to Hear ing, dumb to Speech, and terrible to behold : not « withſtanding, I ſay, theſe natural Diſadvantages, " the Divine Greatneſs ſhows itſelf in you after a very wonderful manner. In you are ſeen the mighty Myſteries of an Infinite Goodneſs. The “ Holy Scripture has always made uſe of you, as " the Types and Shadows of fome profound Sa 66 crament. “ Do you think that, without a Myſtery, the « firſt Preſent that God Almighty made to Man , “ was of you , Oye Fiſhes ? Do you think that, s withouta Myſtery, among all Creatures and Ani “ mals which were appointed for Sacrifices, you only “ were excepted, ye Fiſhes ? Do you think there “ was nothing meant by our Saviour Chriſt, that “ next to the Paſchal Lamb he took ſo much Plea “ fure in the Food of you,O ye Fiſhes ? Do you 16 think it was by mere Chance, that, when the “ Redeemer of the World was to pay a Tribute to “ Cæfar, he thought fit to find it in the Mouth of Fiſh? Theſe are all of them ſo many Myſteries " and Sacraments, that oblige you in a more parti cular manner to the Praiſes of your Creator. " It is from God, my beloved Fiſh , that you have « received Being, Life, Motion, and Senfe. It is " he that has given you, in Compliance with your « natural Inclinations, the whole World of Waters " for your Habitation. It is he that has furniſhed « it with Lodgings, Chambers, Caverns, Grottoes, " and ſuch magnificent Retirements as are not to be met a 52 · Breſcia, Verona, Padua. e met with in the Seats of Kings, or in the Palaces of « Princes . You have the Water for your Dwelling , " , a clear tranſparent Element, brighter than Cry 6 Ital ; you can ſee from its deepeſt Bottom every " thing that paffes on its Surface ; you have the “ Eyes of a Lynx, or of an Argus ; you are guided by a ſecret and unerring Principle, delighting in “ every thing that may be beneficial to you, and avoiding every thing that may be hurtful ; you are carried on by a hidden Inſtinct to preſerve " yourſelves, and to propagate your Species ; you * obey, in all your Actions, Works and Motions, " the Dictates and Suggeſtions of Nature, without “ the leaſt Repugnancy or Contradiction . " The Colds of Winter, and the Heats of Sum “ mer, are equally incapable of moleſting you. A 6 ſerene or a clouded Sky are indifferent to you. “ Let the Earth abound in Fruits, or be curſed with " Scarcity, it has no Influence on your Welfare. • You live fecure in Rains and Thunders, Light nings and Earthquakes ; you have no Concern in the Blolfoms of Spring, or in the Glowings of “ Summer, in the Fruits of Autumn, or in the Froſts 66 of Winter. You are not ſolicitous about Hours « or Days, Months or Years ; the Variableneſs of " the Weather, or the Change of Seaſons. " In what dreadful Majeſty, in what wonderful “ Power, in what amazing Providence, did God “ Almighty diſtinguiſh you among all the Species « ofCreatures thatperiſhed in the Univerſal Deluge! 66 You only were inſenſible of the Miſchief that had “ laid wafte the whole World. 6 All this, as I have already told you, ought to « inſpire you with Gratitude and Praiſe towards the “ Divine Majeſty, that has done ſo great things for " you, granted you ſuch particular Graces and Pri “ vileges, Breſcia, Verona, Padua. 53 2 « vileges, and heaped upon you ſo many diſtinguiſh “ ing Favours. And ſince for all this you cannot “ employ your Tongues in the Praiſes of your Be. nefactor, and are not provided with Wordsto ex “ preſs your Gratitude ; make at leaſt ſome Sign of “ Reverence ; bow yourſelves at his Name; give “ ſome ſhow of Gratitude, according to the beſt of " your Capacities ; expreſs your Thanks in the “ moſt becoming manner that you are able, and be « not unmindful of all the Benefits he has beſtowed upon you. “ Hehad no fooner done ſpeaking, but, behold Miracle ! The Fiſh , as tho' they had been en “ dued with Reaſon, bowed down their Heads with “ - all the Marks of a profound Humility and Devo " tion , moving their Bodies up and down with a “ kind of Fondneſs, asapproving what had been “ ſpoken by the bleſſed Father, St. Antonio. The " Legend adds, that after many Heretics, whowere s preſent at the Miracle, had been converted by it, “ the Saint gave his Benedictionto the Fiſh, anddiſ - miſſed them . " Several other the like Stories of St. Ànthony are re. preſented about his Monument in a very fine Baffo Relievo. I could not forbear ſetting down the Titles given to St. Anthony in one of the Tables that hangs up to him, as a Token of Gratitude from a poor Peaſant, who fancied the Saint had faved himfrom breaking his Neck. Sacratiffimi pufionis Bethlehemitici Lilio candidiori Delicio, Seraphidum foli fulgidiſſimo, Cellulumo facræ fapientiæ tholo, Prodigiorum patratori potentiffimo, Mortis , ! 54 Breſcia, Verona, Padua. Mortis, Erroris, Calamitatis, Lepre, Damonis, Diſpenſatori, correctori, liberatori, curatori, fugatori, Sanéto, fapienti, pio, potenti, tremendo, Ægrotorum & Naufragantium Salvatori Præfentiſſimo, tutiffimo, Membrorum reflitutori, vinculorum confractori, Rerum perditarum Inventori pupendo, Periculorum omnium profligatori Magno, Mirabili, Ter Sancto Antonio Paduano, Pientifimo poft Deumejuſque Virgineam matrem Protectori & Sofpitarori Juo, &c. To the thrice holy Anthony of Padua, Delight (whiter than the Lily) of the moſt holy Child of Bethlebem , brighteſt Son of the Seraphs, higheſt Roof of ſacred Wiſdom , moſt powerful Worker of Mi racles , holy Diſpenſer of Death, wife Correctorof Er ror , pious Deliverer from Calamity, powerful Curer of Leproſy, tremendous Driver-away ofDevils, moft readyand moſt truſty Preſerver of the Sick andShip wreck’d , Reſtorer of Limbs, Breaker of Bonds, ftu pendous Diſcoverer of loft Things, great and won derful Defender from all Dangers, his moſt pious (next to God and his Virgin Mother) Protector and Safe -Guard , & c. The Cuſtom of hanging up Limbs in Wax, as well as Pictures, is certainly deriv'd from the old Heathens, who uſed, upon their Recovery, to make an Offering in Wood, Metal or Clay, of the Part that had been afflicted with a Diftemper, to the Deity that deliver ed them . I have ſeen, I believe, every Limb of a human Body figured in Iron or Clay, which were formerly made on this Occaſion , among the ſeveral Collections Breſcia, Verona, Padua. 55 Collections of Antiquities that have been ſhewn me in Italy. The Church of St. Juftina, deſign'd by Palladio , is the moſt handſom , luminous, diſen cumber'd Building in the Inſide that I have ever ſeen, and is eſteem'd by many Artiſts one of the fineſt Works in Italy. The long Nef conſiſts of a Row of five Cupolas; the croſs one has on each ſide a ſingle Cupola deeper and broader than the others. The Martyrdom of St. Juſtina hangs over the Al tar, and is a piece of Paul Veroneſe. In the great Town Hall of Padua ftands a Stone ſuperfcribd Lapis Vituperii. Any Debtor that will ſwear him ſelf not worth five Pound, and is ſet by the Bailiffs thrice with his bare Buttocks on this Stone in a full Hall, clears himſelf of any farther Proſecution from his Creditors ; but this is a Puniſhment that no Body has ſubmitted to theſe four and twenty Years. The Univerſity of Padua is of late much more regular than it was formerly , tho' it is not yet ſafe walking the Streets after Sun-ſet. There is atPadua a Ma nufacture of Cloth , which has brought very great Revenues into the Republic. At preſent the Eng lifh have not only gained upon the Venetians in the Levant, which uſed chiefly to be fupplied from this Manufacture, but have great Quantities of their Cloth in Venice itſelf ; few of the Nobility wearing anyother fort, notwithſtanding the Magiſtrate of the Pomps is obliged by his Office to ſee that no Bo dy wears the Cloth of a Foreign country. Our Merchants indeed are forced to make uſe of ſome Ar tifice to get theſe Prohibited Goods into Port. What they here ſhow for the Aſhes of Livy and Antenor is diſregarded by the beſt of their own Antiquaries. The pretended Tomb of Antenor put me in mind of the latter part of Virgil's Deſcription , which gives us the Original of Padua. Antenor 56 Breſcia, Verona, Padua. Antenor potuit mediis elapfus Achivis Illyricos penetrare finus, atque intima tutus Regna Liburnorum , &fontem fuperare Timavi: Unde per ora novem vaſto cum murmure montis It mare præruptum , & pelago premit arvafonanti ; Hic tamen ille urbem Patavi, ſedefque locavit Teucrorum, et genti nomen dedit, armaque fixit Troia : nunc placida compoftus pace quiefcit. Æn. i. v, 246. Antenor, from the midſt of Grecian Hofts, Could paſs fecure, and pierce th' Illyrian Coafts Where rolling down the ſteep Timavus saves, And throughnine Channels diſembogues his Waves. At length he founded Paaua's happy. Seat, And gave his Trojans a ſecure Retreat ; There fix'd their Arms, and there renew'd their Names : And there in quiet lies. Dryden. From Padua I went down to the River Brent in the Ordinary Ferry, which brought me in a Day's time to Venice. VENICE. V ENICE. GJERDES AVING often heard Venice repre ſented as one of the moſt defenſible Cities in the World , I took care to inform myſelf of the Particulars in which its Strength confifts. And theſe I find are chieħy owing to its advan tageous Situation ; for it has neither Rocks norFor tifications near it, andyet is, perhaps, the moſt im pregnable Town in Europe. It ſtands at leaſt four Miles from any part of the Terra Firma; nor are the Shallows that lie about it ever frozen hard enough to bring over an Army from the Land- ſide ; the con ftant Flux and Reflux of the Sea , or the natural Mildneſs of the Climate,hinderingthelce from gather ing to any Thickneſs ; which is an Advantage the Hollanders want, when they have laid all their Coun try under Water. On the Side that is expoſed to the Adriatic, the Entrance is ſo difficult to hit, that they have marked it out with ſeveral Stakes driven into the Ground, which they would not fail to cut upon the firſt Approach of an Enemy's Fleet. For this Reaſon they have not fortified the little Iſands, that lie at the Entrance, to the beſt Advantage, which might other wiſe very eaſily command all the Paſſes that lead to the City from the Adriatic. Nor could an ordinary Fleet with Bomb-Veſels, hope to ſucceed againſt a Place that has always in its Arſenal a conſiderable Number of Gallics and Men of War ready to put to Sea C 58 V E N 1 CE. Sea on a very ſhort warning. If we could there fore ſuppoſe them block'd up on all ſides, by a Power too ſtrong for them, both by Sea and Land, they would be able to defend themſelves againſt every thing but Famine ; and this would not be a little mitigated by the great Quantities of Fift that their Seas abound with, and that may be taken up in the midſt of their very Streets ; which is ſuch a natural Magazine as few other Places can boaſt of. Our Voyage-Writers will needs have this City in great Danger of being left, within an Age or two, on the Terra firma ; and repreſent it in ſuch a man ner , as if the Sea was inſenſibly Ihrinking from it, and retiring into its Channel. I asked ſeveral, and among the reſt Father Coronelli, the State's Geo grapher of the Truth of this Particular, and they all'aſſur'd me that the Sea riſes as high as ever, tho' the great Heaps of Dirt it brings along with it are apt to choke up the Shallows; but that they are in no Danger of loſing the Benefit of their Situation, ſo long as they are at the Charge of re . moving theſe Banks of Mud and Sand. One may ſee abundance of them above the Surface of the Water, ſcatter'd upand down like ſo many little Ilands, when the Tide is low ; and they are theſe that make the Entrance for Ships difficult to ſuch as are not uſed to them ; for the deep Canals run between them, which the Venetians are at a great Expence to keep free and open . This City Stands very convenient for Commerce. It has ſeveral navigable Rivers that run up into the Body of Italy, by which they might ſupply a great many Countries with Fifh and other Commodities ; not to mention their Opportunities for the Levant, and each ſide of the Adriatic. But notwithſtand ing theſe Conveniencies, their Trade is far from being V E N I CE. 59 being in a flouriſhing Condition for many Reaſons. TheDuties are great that are laid on Merchandiſes. Their Nobles think it below their Quality to en gage in Traffic . Their Merchants who are grown rich, and able to manage great Dealings, buy their Nobility , and generally give over Trade. Their Manufactures of Cloth , Glaſs, and Silk, formerly the beſt in Europe ,are now excell'd by thoſe of other Countries. They are tenacious of old Laws and Cuſtoms to their great Prejudice, whereas a Trading Nation muft be ſtill for new Changes and Expedients, as different Junctures and Emergencies ariſe. The State is at preſent very ſenſible of this Decay in their Trade, and, as a Noble Venetian, who is ſtill a Merchant, told me, they will ſpeedily find out ſome Method to redreſs it ; poſſibly by making afree Port, for they look with an evil Eye upon Leghorne, which draws to it most of the Ver ſels bound for Italy. They have hitherto been fo negli in this particular, that many think the Great Duke's Gold has had no ſmall Influence in their Councils. Venice has ſeveral Particulars, which are not to be found in other Cities, and is therefore very enter taining to a Traveller. It looks, at a diſtance, like a great Town half foated by a Deluge. There are Canals every where croſſing it , ſo that one may go to moft Houſes either by Land or Water. This is avery great Convenience to the Inhabitants ; for a Gondola with two Oars at Venice, is as magnifi cent as a Coach and fix Horſes with a large Equi page, in another Country ; beſides that it makes all other Carriages extremely cheap. The Streets are generally paved with Brick or Freeſtone, and al ways kept very neat ; for there is no Carriage, not ſomuchas a Chair, that paſſes thro' them. Thereis бо V E N I CE. is an innumerable multitude of very handſom Bridges, all ofa ſingle Arch, and without any Fence on either ſide, which would bea great Inconve. nience to a City leſs ſober than Venice. One would indeed wonder that Drinking is ſo little in Vogue among the Venetians, who are in a moiſt Air and a moderate Climate, and have no ſuch Diverſions as Bowling, Hunting, Walking , Riding, and the like Exerciſes to employ them without Doors. But as the Nobles are not to converſe too much with Strangers, they are in no Danger of learning it ; and they are generally too diſtruſtful of one another for the Freedoms that are uſed in ſuch kind of Con verſations. There are many noble Palaces in Ve nice. Their Furniture is not commonly very rich , if we except the Pictures, which are here in greater plenty than in any other place in Europe, from the Hands of the beſt Maſters of the Lombard School ; as Titian , Paul Veroneſe, and Tintoret. The laſt of theſe is in greater Eſteem at Venice than in other Parts of Italy. The Rooms are generally hung with Gilt Leather, which they cover on extraordi nary Occaſions with Tapeſtry, and Hangings of The Flooring is a kind ofRed Plaiſter made of Brick ground to Powder, and after wards work'd into Mortar. It is rubbed with Oil, and makes a ſmooth, ſhining, and beautiful Surface. Theſe Particularities are chiefly owing to the Moi ſture of the Air, which would have an ill Effect on other kinds of Furniture, as it ſhows itſelf too vi fibly in many of their fineſt Pictures. Tho' the Venetians are extremely jealous of any great Fame or Merit in a living Member of their Common wealth, they never fail of giving a Man his due Praiſes , when they are in no danger of ſuffering from his Ambition. For this Reaſon, tho' there greater Value. are 5 V E N I CE. 61 are a great many Monuments erected to ſuch as have been Benefactors to the Republic, they are generally put up after their Deaths. Among the many Elogiums that are given to the Doge, Piſauro, who had been Ambaſſador in England, his Epitaph ſays, In Anglia Jacobi Regis obitum mirá calliditate cela tum mirå ſagacitaterimatus prifcam benevolentiam firmavit. In England, having with wonderful sa gacity diſcover'd the Death of King James, which was kept ſecret with wonderful Art , he confirm'd the ancient Friendſhip. The particular Palaces , Churches, and Pictures of Venice, are enumerated in ſeveral little Books that may be bought on the Place, and have been faithfully tranſcribed by many Voyage-Writers. When I was at Venice, they were putting out very curious Stamps of the ſeveral Edifices which are moſt famous for their Beauty or Magnificence. The Arſenal of Venice is an Iſland of about three Miles round. It contains all the Stores and Proviſions for War, that are not actually employed. There are Docks for their Gallies and Men of War, moſt of them full, as well as Work . houſes for all Land and Naval Preparations. That Part of it , where the Arms are laid , makes a great fhow , and was indeed very extraordinary about a hundred Years ago ; but at preſent a great part of its Furniture is grown uſeleſs. There ſeem to be almoſt as many Suits of Armour as there are Guns. The Swords are old faſhion'd and unwieldy in a very great Number, and the Fire- Arms fitted with Locks of little Convenience in compariſon of thoſe that are now in uſe. The Venetians pretend they could ſet out , in caſe of great Neceſſity, thirty Men of War, a hundred Gallies, and ten Galeaffes, tho ' I cannot conceive how they could man a Fleet of half the number. It was certainly a mighty D Error 62 V E N I CE. Error in this State to affect ſo many Conqueſts on the Terra Firma, which has only ferved to raiſe the Jealouſy of the Chriſtian Princes, and about three hundred Years ago had like to have ended in the utter Extirpation of the Commonwealth ; whereas, had they apply'd themſelves, with the ſame Politics and Induſtry , to the Increaſe of theirStrength by Sca, they might perhaps have had all the Iſands of the Archipelago in their Hands, and, by Conſequence, the greateſt Fleet, and the moſt Seamen of any other State in Europe. Beſides, that this would have given no Jealouſy to the Princes their Neighbours, who would have enjoy'd their own Dominions in Peace, and have been very well contented to have ſeen ſo ſtrong a Bulwark againſt all the Forces and Invaſions of the Ottoman Empire, This Republic has been much more powerful than it is at preſent, as it is ſtill likelier to fink than increaſe in its Dominions. It is not impoffible but the Spaniard may , fome time or other, demand of them Creme, Breſcia, and Bergame, which have been torn from the Milaneſe ; and in caſe a War ſhould ariſe upon it, and the Venetians loſe a ſingle Battle, they might be beaten off the Continent in a ſingle Summer, for their Fortifications are very inconſiderable. On the other ſide the Venetians are in continual Apprehenſions from the Turk, who will certainly endeavour at the Recovery of the Morea, as ſoon as the Ottoman Empire has recruited a little of its ancient Strength. They are very ſenſible that they had better have puſhed their Conqueſts on the other ſide of the Adriatic into Albania ; for then their Territories would have lain together, and have been nearer the Fountain -head to have received Suc cours on occaſion ; but the Venetians are under Ar ticles with the Emperor, to reſign into his Hands what V E N I CE. 63 1 ! S whatever they conquer of the Turkiſh Dominions, that hasbeen formerly diſmembered from the Empire. And having already very much diffatisfy'd him in the Frioul and Dalmatia, they dare not think of exaſperating him further. The Pope diſputes with them their Pretenſions to the Poleſin, as the Duke of Savoy lays an equal Claim to the Kingdom of Cyprus. ' Tis ſurpriſing to conſider with what Heats theſe two Powers have conteſted their Title to a Kingdom that is in the Hands of the Turk . Among all theſe Difficulties the Republic will ſtill maintain itſelf, if Policy can prevail upon Force ; for it is certain the Venetian Senate is one of the wiſeft Councils in the World, tho' at the ſame time, if we believe the Reports of ſeveral that have been well verſed in their conititution, a great part of their Politics is foundedon Maxims, which others do not think conſiſtent with their Honour to put in practice. The Preſervation of the Republic is that to which all other Conſiderations ſubmit. To en courage Idleneſs and Luxury in the Nobility, to cherith Ignorance and Licentiouſneſs in the Clergy, to keep alive a continual Faction in the Common People, to connive at the Viciouſneſs and Debauchery of Convents, to breed Diffenfions among the Nobles of the Terra Firma, to treat a brave Man with Scorn and Infamy, in ſhort, to ſtick at nothing for the Public Intereſt, are repreſented as the refined Parts of the Venetian Wiſdom. Among all the Inſtances of their Politics, there is none more admirable than the great Secrecy that reigns in their public Councils. The Senate is generally as numerous as our Houſe of Commons, if we only reckon the fitting Members, and yet carries its Reſolution fo privately, that they are ſeldom known ' till they diſcover themſelves in the D 2 Exe . 64 V E N I CE. Execution. It is not many Years fince they had before them a great Debate concerning the Puniſh ment of one of their Admirals, which laſted a Month together, and concluded in his Condem nation ; yet there was none of his Friends, nor of thoſe who had engaged warmly in his Defence, that gave him the leaſt Intimation of what was paſſing againſt him , ' till he was actually ſeiz'd , and in the Hands of Juſtice. The Noble Venetians think themſelves ' equal at leaſt to the Eléctors of the Empire, and but one Degree below Kings ;for which realon they feldom travel into Foreign countries, where they muſt undergo the Mortification of being treated like pri vate Gentlemen : Yet it is obſerv'd of them , that they diſcharge themſelves with a great deal of Dex terity in ſuch Embaſſies and Treaties as are laid on them by the Republic ; for their whole Lives are employed in Intrigues of State, and they naturally give themſelvesAirs of Kings and Princes, ofwhich the Miniſters of other Nations are only the Repre fentatives. Monſieur Amelot, reckons in his time, two thouſand five hundred Nobles that had Voices in the great Council; but at preſent, I am told , there are not at noft fifteen Hundred, notwith ftanding the Addition of many new Families ſince that time. It is very ſtrange, that with this Ad. vantage they are not able to keep up their Number, conſidering that the Nobility ſpreads equally thro ' all the Brothers, and that ſo very few of them are deſtroyed by the Wars of the Republic. Whether this may be imputed to the Luxury of the Vene tians, or to the ordinary Celibacy of the younger Brothers, or to the laſt Plague which ſwept away many of them , I know not. They generally thruit the Females of their Families into Convents, the better V EΕ ΝN I CE. 65 better to preſerve their Eftates. This makes the Venetian Nuns famous for the Liberties they allow themſelves. They have Operas within their own Walls, and often go out of their Bounds to meet their Admirers, or they are very much miſrepre fented. They have many of them their Lovers, that converſe with them daily at the Grate ; and are very free to admit a Vifit from a Stranger. There is indeed one of the Cornara's, that not long ago refus'd to ſee any under a Prince. The Carnival of Venice is every where talk'd of. The great Diverſion of the Place at that time, as well as on all other high Occaſions, is Masking. The Venetians, who are naturally Grave, love to give into the Follies and Entertainments of ſuch Seaſons, when diſguiſed in a falſe Perſonage. They are indeed under a neceſſity of finding out Diver fions that may agree with the Nature of the Place, and make ſome Amends for the Loſs of ſeveral Pleaſures which may be met with on the Conti nent. Theſe Diſguiſes give Occafion to abundance of Love- Adventures ; for there is ſomething more intriguing in the Amours of Venice, than in thofe of other countries ; and I queſtion not but the ſecret Hiſtory of a Carnival would make a Collec tion of very diverting Novels . Operas are another great Entertainment of this Seaſon. The Poetry of them is generally as exquiſitely ill , as the Muſic is good. The Arguments are often taken from ſome celebrated Action of the ancient Greeks or Romans, which ſometimes looks ridiculous enough ; for who can endure to hear one of the rough old Romana ſqueaking thro ' the Mouthof an Eunuch, eſpecially when they may chooſea Subject out of Courts where Eunuchs are really Actors, or repreſent by them any of the ſoft Afiatic Monarchs ? The Opera that D 3 was 66 V E N I CE. was moſt in Vogue during my Stay at Venice, was built on the following Subject . Cajar and Scipio are Rivals for Cate's Daughter. Cæſar's firft Words bid his Soldiers fly, for the Enemies are upon them : Si leva Ceſarı, é dice a Soldati, A' la fugga, A' lo fcampo . The Daughter gives the Preference to Cáfar, which is made theOccafion of Cato's Death . Before he kills himſelf, you ſee him withdrawn into his Library, where, among his Books, I obſerved the Titles of Plutarch and Tafjo. After a ſhort Soliloquy, heſtrikes himſelf with theDagger that he holds in his Hand ; but, being interrupted by oneof his Friends, he ftabs him for his Pains, and by the Violence of the Blow unluckily breaks the Dagger on one of his Ribs, ſo that he is forced to diſpatch himſelf by tearing up his firſt Wound. This laſt Circumſtance puts me in mind of a Contrivance in the Opera of St. Angelo, that was acted at the fame time. The King of the Play endeavours at a Rape ; but the Poet, being reſolved to ſave his Heroine's Honour, has ſo ordered it, that the King always acts with a great Cafe- Knife ſtuck in his Girdle, which the Lady ſnatches from him in the Struggle, and fo defends herſelf. The Italian Poets, beſides the celebrated Smooth neſs of their Tongue, have a particular Advantage, above the Writers of other Nations, in the diffe rence of their Poetical and Proſe Language. There are indeed Sets of Phraſes that in all Countries are peculiar to the Poets ; but the Italians there are not only Sentences, but a Multitude of particu Jar Words, that never enter into common Diſcourſe, They have ſuch a different Turn and Poliſhing for Poetical Uſe, that they drop feveral of their Letters, and appear in another Form , when they come to be Fanged in Verfe. For this Reaſon the Italian Opera among feldom V E N I CE. 67 . ſeldom finks into a Poorners of Language, but, amidſt all the Meanneſs and Familiarity of the Thoughts, has ſomething beautiful and ſonorous in the Expreſſion. Without this natural Advantage of the Tongue, their preſent Poetry would appear wretchedly low and vulgar, notwithſtanding the many ſtrained Allegories that are ſo much in uſe among the Writers ofthis Nation. The Engliſh and French , who always uſe the ſame Words in Verſe as in ordinary Converſation, are forced to raiſe their Language with Metaphors and Figures, or , by the Pompoufneſs of the whole Phrafe , to wear off any Littleneſs that appearsin the particular Parts that compoſe it . This makes our Blank Verſe, where there is no Rhyme to ſupport the Expreſſion, ex tremely difficult to ſuch as are not Maſters in the Tongue, eſpecially when they write on low Sub jects ; and ' tis probably for this Reaſon that Milton has made uſe of ſuch frequent Tranſpofitions, Lati niſms, antiquated Words and Phraſes, that he might the better deviate from vulgar and ordinary Ex preſſions. The Comedies that I ſaw at Venice, or indeed in any other Part of Italy, are very indifferent, and more lewd than thoſe of other Countries. Their Poets have no Notion of gentile Comedy , and fall into the moſt filthy Double Meanings imaginable, when they have a mind to make their Audience merry . There is no Part generally ſo wretched as that of the Fine Gentleman, eſpecially when he converſes with his Miſtreſs ; for then the whole Dialogue is an infipid mixture of Pedantry and Romance. But ' tis no wonder that the Poets of fo jealous and reſerved a Nation fail in ſuch Converſations on the Stage, as they have no Patterns of it in Nature. There are four ſtanding Characters which enter into every Piece that 1 . -9 D4 68 V E N I CE. that comes on the Stage, the Doctor , Harlequin, Pantalone, and Coviello. The Doctor's Character comprehends the whole Extent of a Pedant, that, with a deep Voice, and a Magiſterial Air, breaks in upon Converſation , and drives down all before him : Every thing he fays is backed with Quotations out of Galen ,Hippocrates,Plato,Virgil, or any otherAuthor that riſes uppermoſt, and all Anſwers from his Com panions are looked upon as Impertinencies or Inter ruptions. Harlequin's Part is made up of Blunders and Abſurdities : He is to miſtake oneNamefor ano ther, to forget his Errands, to ſtumble over Queens, and to run his Head againſt every Poſt that ſtands in his way. This is all attended with ſomething ſo co mical in the Voice and Geſtures, that a Man, who is ſenſible of the Folly of the Part, can hardly for bear being pleaſed with it. Pantalone is generally an old Cully , and Coviello a Sharper. I have ſeen a Tranſlation of the Cid acted at Bo lonia, which would never have taken , had they not found a Place in it for theſe Buffoons. All four of them appear in Masks that are made like the old Roman Perfone , as I ſhall have occafion to obſerve in another place. The French and Italians have proba. bly derived this Cuſtom , of fhewing ſome of their Characters in Masks, from the Greek and Roman Theatre, The old Vatican Terence bas, at the Head of every Scene, the Figures of all the Perſons that are concerned in it, with the particular Diſguiſes in which they acted ; and I remember to have ſeen in the Villa Mattheio an antique Statue mask'd, which was perhaps deſign’d for Gnatho in the Eunuch ; for it agrees exactlywith the Figure he makes in the Vatican Manuſcript. One would wonder indeed how ſo polite a People as the ancient Romans and Athe nians thould not look on theſe borrowed Faces as una natural, V E N I CE. 69 natural. They might do very well for a Cyclops, or a Satyr that can have no Reſemblance in Human Features ; but for a Flatterer , a Miſer, or the like Characters, which abound in our own Species, no thing is more ridiculous than to repreſent their Looks by a painted Vizard. In Perſons of this nature the Turns and Motions of the Face are often as agreea ble as any part of the Action. Could we ſuppoſe that a Mask repreſented never ſo naturally the gene ral Humour of a Character, it can never ſuit with the Variety of Paſſions that are incident to every fingle Perſon in the whole courſe of a Play. The Grimace may be proper on ſome Occaſions, but is too ſteady to agreewith all . The Rabble indeed are generally pleaſed at the firft Entry of a Diſguiſe ; but the Jeſt grows cold even with them too when it comes on the Stage in a ſecond Scene. Since I am on this Subject, I cannot forbear mentioning a Cuſtom at Venice, which they tell me is particular to the Common People of this Country , of ſinging Stanzas out of Tafjo. They are ſet to a prettyſolemn Tune, and when one begins in any part of the Poet, it is odds but he will be anſwered by fome body elſe that overhears him : So that ſome times you have Ten or a Dozen in the Neighbour hood of one another, taking Verſe after Verſe, and running on with the Poem as far as their Memories will carry them . On Holy Thurſday, among the ſeveral Shows that are yearly exhibited, I ſaw one that is odd enough, and particular to the Venetians. There is a Set of Artiſans, who, by the help of ſeveral Poles , which they lay acroſs each others Shoulders, build them felves into a kind of Pyramid ; ſo that you ſee a Pile of Men in the Air of four or five Rows riſing one above another. The Weight is fo equally diftri DS buted, up 70 V E N I C E .. buted , that every Man is very well able to bear bis Part of it , the Stories, if I may ſo call them , grow ing leſs and leſs as they advance higher and higher. A little Boy repreſents the Point of the Pyramid , who, after a ſhort Space, leaps off, with a great deal of Dexterity, into the Armsofone that catches him at the Bottom . In the ſame manner the whole Building falls to pieces. I have been the more parti cular in this, becauſe it explains the following Verſes of Claudian , which ſhow that the Venetians are not the Inventors of this Trick. Vel qui more avium ſeſe jaculantur in auras, Corporaque ædificant, celeri creſcentia nexu , Quorum compoſitam puer augmentatus in arcem Emicat, et vinctus plante , vel cruribus hærens, Pendula librato figit veftigia faltu . Claud. de Pr. & Olyb. Conſe Men, pild on Men, with active Leaps ariſe, And build the breathing Fabric to the Skies ; A ſprightly Youth above the topmoft Row Points the tall Pyramid, and crowns the Show. Tho'we meet with the Veneti in the old Poets, the City of Venice is too modern to find a Place among them . Sannazarius's Epigram is too well known to be inſerted . The ſamePoet has celebrated this City in two other places of his Poems. Gus Veneto miracula proferat urbis, Unainför magni quæfimul Orbis habet ? Saive Italúm Regina, altæ pulcherrima Roma Amula, gua terris, que dominaris aquis ! Tu tibi vel Reges cives facis, o Decus, O Lux Aufonia , per quam libera turbafumus, Per V E N ICE. 71 Perquam Barbaries nobis non imperat, et Sol Exoriens noftro clariùs orbe nitet ! Lib. ii. Eleg .1. Venetia ftands with endleſs Beauties crown'd, And as a World within herſelf is found . Hail Queen of Italy ! for Years to come The mighty Rival of immortal Rome ! Nations and Seas are in thy States enroll’d , And Kings among thy Citizens are told . Aufonia's brightelt Ornament ! by Thee She fits a Sov'reign, Unenflav'd and Free ; By Thee, the rude Barbarian chas'd away, The Riſing Sun chears with a purer Ray Our Weſtern World, and doubly gilds the Day. } Nec Tuſemper eris, quæſeptemample&teris arces, Nec Tu, quæ mediis æmula ſurgis aquis. Lib. ii . Eleg. 1 . Thou too ſhalt fall by Time or barb'rous Foes, Whoſe circling Walls the Sev'n fam'd Hills incloſe ; And Thou, whoſe Rival Tow'rs invade the Skies, And, from amidſt the Waves, with equal Glory riſe. TER FERRARA RAVENNA, R 1 M 1 N 1. A T Venice I took a Bark for Ferrara , and in my way thither faw feveral Mouths of the Po, by which it empties itſelf into the Adriatic, Quo non alius per pinguia culta In mare purpureum violentior influit amnis. Virg. Georg. iv. v. 372. which is true, if underſtood only of the Rivers of Italy. Lucan's Deſcription of the Po would have been very beautiful, had he knows when to have given over . Quoque magis nullum tellus fe folvit in amnem Eridanus, fractaſque evolvit in æquora ſylvas, Heſperiamque exhaurit aquis: hunc fabula primum Populeå fluvium ripas umbraſſe corona : Cumquediem pronum tranfverfo limite ducens Succendit Phaëton flagrantibus æthera loris ; Gurgitibus Ferrara, Ravenna, Rimini. 73 Gurgitibus raptis, penitás tellure peruſta, Hunc habuiſe pares Phæbeis ignibus undas. Lib. ii. V. 408. The Po, that, ruſhing with uncommon Force, O'er-ſets whole Woods in its tumultuous Courſe , And , riſing from Heſperia's watry Veins, Th' exhauſted Land of all its Moiſture drains. The Po, as fings the Fable, firſt convey'd Its wand'ring Current through a Poplar Shade : For when young Phaëton miftook his way , Loſt and confounded in the Blaze of Day, This River, with ſurviving Streams fupply'd, When all the reſt of the whole Earth were dry'd, And Nature's ſelf lay ready to expire , Quench'd the dire Flame that ſet the World on Fire. The Poet's Reflexions follow . Non minor bic Nilo, fi non per plana jacentis Ægypti Libycas Nilus fagnaretarenas. Non minor hic l'Aro, nifi quod dum permeat orbem Ifter, cafuros in quælibet æquora fontes Accipit, ' & Scythicas exit non folus in undas. Ib . V. 416. 50 1 Nor would the Nile more watry Stores contain , But that he ſtagnates on the Libyan Plain : Nor would the Danube run with greater Force , But that he gathers in his tedious Courſe Ten thouſand Streams, and, ſwelling as he flows, In Scythian Seas the Glut of Rivers throws. That is, ſays Scaliger, the Eridanus would be bigger than the Nile and Danube, if the Nile and Danube were not bigger than the Eridanus. What makes 「9 24 Ferrara , Ravenna, Rimini. makes the Poet's Remark the more improper, the very Reaſon why the Danubeis greater than the Po, as he aſſigns it, is that which really makes the Po as great as it is ; for, before its Fall into the Gulf, it receives into its Channel the moſt confi derable Rivers of Piedmont, Milan, and the reſt of Lombardy. From Venice to Ancona the Tide comes in very ſenſibly at its ſtated Periods, but riſesmore or leſs in proportion as it advances nearer the Head of the Gulf. Lucan has run out of his way to deſcribe the Phænomenon , which is indeed very extraordinary to thoſe who lie out of the Neighbourhood of the great Ocean, and, according to his uſual Cuſtom , lets his Poem ſtand ſtill that he may give way to his own Reflexions. Quáque jacet littus dubium , quod terra fretumque Vendicat alternis vicibus, cumfunditur ingens Oceanus, vel cùm refugis ſe fluctibus aufert. Ventus ab extremo pelagus fic axe volutet Deftituatque ferens : an fidere mota ſecundo Tethyos unda vage Lunaribus æftuet horis: Flammiger an Titan, ut alentes hauriat undas, Erigat Oceanum , fluctuſque adfidera tollat ; Quærite quos agitat mundi labor; at mihi femper Tu quæcunque moves tam crebros cauſa meatus, Ut ſuperi voluere, lates, Lib . i . v. 409. Waſh'd with ſucceſſive Seas, the doubtful Strand By turns is Ocean, and by turns is Land : Whether the Winds in diftant Regions blow , Moving the World of Waters to and fro ; Or waining Moons their ſettled Periods keep To ſwell the Billows, and ferment the Deep ; Or 1 Ferrara, Ravenna, Rimini. 75 1 1 Or the tir’d Sun , his Vigour to ſupply, Raiſes the floating Mountains to the Sky, And flakes his Thirſt within themighty Tide, Do you who ſtudy Nature's Works decide : Whilft I the dark myſterious Cauſe admire, Nor, into what the Gods conceal, preſumptuouſly ... inquire. At Ferrara I met nothing extraordinary. The Town is very large, but extremely thin of People, It has a Citadel, and ſomething like a Fortification running round it , but ſo large that it requires more Soldiers to defend it , than the Pope has in his whole Dominions. The Streets are as beautiful as any I have ſeen , in their Lengtlı, Breauth and Regularity. The Benedictines have the fineſt Convent of the Place. They ſhow'd us in the Church Arioſto's Mo nument : His Epitaph ſays, he was Nobilitate Geo neris atque Animi clarus, in rebus publicis admini ſtrandis, in regendis populis, in graviſimis & fum mis Pontificis legationibus prudentia, confilio, eloquen trâ præftantiffimus. i. e. Noble both in Birth and Mind, and moſt conſpicuous for Prudence, Counſel, and Eloquence, in adminiſtring the Affairs of the Public, and diſcharging the moſt important Em baſſies from the Pope. I came down a Branch of the Po, as far as Alberto, within ten Miles of Ravenna. All this Space lies miſerably uncultivated ' till you comenear Ravenna , where the Soil is madeextremely fruitful, and ſhows what much of the reft might be, were there Hands enough to manage it to the beſt Advantage. It is now on both ſides theRoad very marſhy, and gene . rally overgrown with Ruſhes, which mademe fancy it was once floated by the Sea, that lies within four Miles of it. Nor could I in the leaſt doubt it when f I ſay 76 Ferrara, Ravenna, Rimini. I ſaw Ravenna, that is now almoſt at the ſame di. ſtance from the Adriatic, tho it was formerly the moſt famous of all the Roman Ports. One may gueſs at its ancient Situation from Martial's Meliúfque Ranagarriant Ravennates. Lib. ii.Epigr. Ravenna's Frogs in better Muſic croak . And the Deſcription that Silius Italicus has given us of it. 2 Quáque gravi remo limofis fegniter undis Lentapaludofæ perfcindunt fagna Ravenne . Lib. viii. Incumber'd in the Mud, their Oars divide With heavy Strokes the thick unwieldy Tide. Accordingly the old Gengraphers repreſent it as ſituated among Marſhes and Shallows. The Place , which is ſhown for the Haven, is on a level with the Town, and has probably been ſtopped up by the great Heaps of Dirt that the Sea has thrown into it ; for all the Soil on that fide of Ravenna has been left there infenfibly by the Sea's diſcharging itſelf upon it for many Ages. The Ground muſt have been formerly much lower, for otherwiſe theTownwould have lain under Water. The Remains of the Pha . ros, that ſtandabout three Miles from the Sea, and two from the Town, have their Foundations covered with Earth for ſome Yards, as they told me, which notwithſtanding are upon a level with the Fields that lie about them , tho' ' tis probable they took the Advantage of a riſing Ground to ſet it upon. It was a ſquare Tower, of about twelve Yards in Breadth , as Ferrara, Ravenna, Rimini. 77 as appears by that part of it which yet remains en tire ; ſo that its Height muſt have been very confi derable to have preſerved a Proportion . It is made in the form of the Denetian Campanello, and is pro bably the high Tower mentioned by Pliny, Lib. 36. cap . 12 . On the ſide of the Town, where the Sea is fup poſed to have lain formerly, there is now a little Church called the Rotonda. At the Entrance of it are two Stones, the one with an Inſcription in Gothic Characters, that has nothing in it remark able ; the other is a ſquare Piece of Marble, that by the Inſcription appears ancient, and by the Orna ments about it ſhows itſelf to have been a little Pa gan Monument of two Perſons who were ſhip wreck'd , perhaps in the Place where now their Mo nument ſtands. The firſt Line and a half, that tells their Names and Families in Proſe, is not legible ; the reſt run chus ; Raniæ domus hos produxit alumnos, Libertatis opus contulit una dies. Naufragamors pariter rapuit quos junxerat ante, Et duplices luctus mors periniqua dedit. Both with the fame indulgent Maſter bleſs'd , On the fame Day their Liberty poffeſs'd : A Shipwreck ſlew whom it had join'd before, And left their common Friends their Fun'rals to deplore. There is a turn in the third Verſe, that we loſe by not knowing the Circumſtances of their Sto ry. It was the Naufraga mors which deſtroyed them , as it had formerly united them ; what this Union 78 Ferrara, Ravenna, Rimini. Union was is expreſs'd in the preceding Verſe , by their both having been made Free-men onthe fame Day. If therefore we ſuppoſe they had been for merly ſhipwreck'd with their Maſter, and that he made them Free at the ſame time, the Epi gram is unriddled . Nor is this Interpretation per-, haps ſo forc'd as it may ſeem at firſt ſight, ſince it was the Cuſtom of the Maſters, a little before their Death , to give their Slaves their Freedom , il they had deſerv'd it at their Hands ; and it is na tural enough to ſuppoſe one, involved in a com mon Shipwreck, would give ſuch of his Slaves their Liberty, as ſhould have the good Luck to ſave them ſelves. The Chancel of this Church is vaulted with a ſingle Stone of four Foot in thickneſs, and a hundred and fourteen in Circumference. There ſtood , on the outſide of this little Cupola, a great Tomb of Porphyry, and the Statues of the twelve Apoſtles ; butin the War that Louis the Twelfth made on Italy, the Tomb was broken in pieces by a Cannon Ball . It was, perhaps, the ſame Blow that made the Flaw in the Cupola, tho’ the In habitants ſay it was crack'd by Thunder, that de ſtroyed a Son of one of their Gothic Princes, who had taken ſhelter under it, as having been foretold what kind of Death he was to die . I asked an Abbot, that was in the Church , what was the Name of this Gothic Prince, who, after a little Re collection , anſwered me, that he could not tell pre ciſely, but that he thought it was one Julius Cae far. There is a Convent of Theatins, where they Thow a little Window in the Church, thro' which the Holy Ghoſt is ſaid to have entered in the Shape of a Dove, and to have ſettled on one of the Can didates for the Biſhoprick . The Dove is repre ſented Ferrara, Ravenna, Rimini.. 79 fented in the Window, and in ſeveral Places of the Church, and is in great Reputation all over Italy. I ſhould not indeed think it impoſſible for a Pigeon to fly in accidentally thro' the Roof, where they ſtill keep the Hole open , and by its fluttering over ſuch a particular Place, to give to ſuperſtitious an Affembly an Occaſion of favouring a Competi tor , eſpecially if he had many Friends among the Electors that would make a politic Uſe of ſuch an Accident : But they pretend the Miracle has hap pen'd more than once. Among the Pictures of ſeve ral famous Men of their Order, there is one with this Inſcription . P. D. Thomas Gouldvellus Ep. Afis Trids confilio contraHareticos, & inAnglia contra Eliſabet. Fidei Confeſor conſpicuus. TheSta. tue of Alexander the Seventh ſtands in the large Square of the Town ; it is caft in Braſs, and has the Poſture that is always given the Figure of a Pope ; an Arm extended , and bleſſing the People. In another Square on a high Pillar is ſet the Sta tue of the bleſſed Virgin , arrayed like a Queen , with a Scepter in her Hand , and a Crown upon her Head, for having deliver'd the Town from a raging Peſtilence. The Cuſtom of crowning the Holy Virgin is ſo much in vogue among the Italians, that one often ſees in their Churches a little Tinſel Crown , or perhaps a circle of Stars glued to the Canvas over the Head of the Figure, which ſome times ſpoils a good Picture. In the Convent of Be nedictines, I ſaw three huge Cheſts of Marble, with no Inſcription on them that I could find, tho' they are ſaid to contain the Aſhes of Valentinian, Hono rius, and his Sifter Placidia . ' From Ravenna I came to Rimini, having paſſed the Rubicon by the way. This River is not ſo very contemptible as it is 80 Ferrara, Ravenna, Rimini. is generally repreſented , and was much increaſed by the melting of the Snows when Cafar paſſed it, ac cording to Lucan. Fonte cadit modico parviſque impellitur undis Puniceus Rubicon, cùm fervida canduit aftas ; Perque imas ſerpit valles, & Gallica certus Limes ab Auſoniis diſterminat arva colonis : Tunc vires præbebat hyems, atque auxerat undas Tertia jam gravidopluvialis Cynthia cornu, Et madidis Euri refolutæ flatibusAlpes. Lib. i . v. 213, While Summer laſts, the Streams of Rubicon From their ſpent Source in a ſmall Current run ; Hid in the winding Vales they gently glide, And Italy from neighb’ring Gaul divide ; But now, with Winter Storms increas'd , they roſe, By watry Moons produc'd , and Alpine Snows, That melting on the hoary Mountains lay , And in warm Eaſtern Winds diffolv'd away. This River is now called Piſatello. Rimini has nothing modern to boaſt of. Its An tiquities are as follow : A Marble Bridge of five Arches, built by Auguftus and Tiberius, for the In fcription is ſtill legible, tho' not rightly tranſcribd by Gruter. A triumphal Arch raifed by Auguftus, which makes a noble Gate to the Town, tho ? part of it is ruined. The Ruins of an Amphitheatre, The Suggeftum , on which it is ſaid that Julius Cæfar harangued his Army after having paſſed the Rúbicon. I muſt confeſs I can by no means look on this laſt as Authentic : It is built of hewn Stone, like the Pedeſtal of a Pillar, but ſomething higher than ordinary, and is but juſt broad enough for Ferrara, Ravenna, Rimini. 81 for one Man to ſtand upon it. On thecontrary , the ancient Suggeftun as I have often obſerved on Me dals, as wellas on Conftantine's Arch, were made of Wood like a little kind of Stage; for the Heads of the Nails are ſometimes repreſented , that are fup poſed to have faſtened the Boards together. Weof ten ſee on them the Emperor, and two or threeGe. neral Officers, fometimes fitting, and ſometimes ſtanding, as they made Speeches, or diſtributed a Congiary to the Soldiers or People. They were pro bably always in readineſs, and carried among the Baggage of the Army, whereas this at Rimini muſt havebeen built on the Place, and required ſome time before it could be finiſhed , IMPERATORVII. SC 1 . 1 If 82 Ferrara , Ravenna , Rimini , IIA Opg R SC ADLOCVTAVG If the Obſervation I have here made is juſt , it may ſerve as a Confirmation to the learned Fa bretti's Conjecture on Trajan's Pillar; who fup poſes. I think, with a great deal of Reaſon , that the Camps, Intrenchments, and other Works of the Ferrara, Ravenna, Rimini. 83 1 the fame Nature, which are cut out as if they had been made of Brick or hewn Stone, were in reality only of Earth , Turf, or the like Materials ; for there are on the Pillar ſome of theſe Suggeſtums, which are figured like thoſe onMedals,with only this Difference, that they ſeem built with Brick or Free.ſtone. At twelve Miles diſtance from Rimini ftands the little Republic of St. Marino, which I could not forbear viſiting, tho' it lies out of the common Tour of Travellers, and has exceflively bad Ways to it. I ſhall here give a particular Account of it , becauſe I know of no body elſe that has done it. One may, at leaſt, have the Pleaſure of ſeeing in it ſomething more ſingular than can be found in great Govern ments, and form from it an Idea of Venice in its firſt Beginnings, when it had only a few Heaps of Earth for its Dominions, or of Rome itſelf, when it had yet cover'd but one of its ſeven Hills, THE THE R E PUBLIC 0 F St. M A R I N 0. HE Town and Republic of St. Ma rino ſtands on the Top of a very high T and craggy Mountain. It is generally hid among the Clouds, and lay under Snow when I ſaw it, tho' it was clear le and warm Weather in all the Country about it . There is not a Spring or Fountain, that I could hear of in the whole Dominions, but they are always well provided with huge Cifterns and Reſer voirs of Rain and Snow -water. The Wine that grows on the ſides of their Mountain is extraordinary good, and I think much better than any I met with on the cold ſide of the Apennines. This put me in mind of their Cellars, which have moſt of 'em a natural Advantage that renders ' em extremely cool in the hotteſt Seaſons ; for they have generally in the Sides of them deep Holes that run into the Hollows of the Hill, from whence there conſtantly iſſues a breathing kind of Vapours, fo very chilling in the Summer- time, that a Man can ſcarce fuffer his Hand in the Wind of it. This The Republic, &c. 85 This Mountain, and a few neighbouring Hillocks that lie ſcatter'd about the Bottom of it , is the whole Circuit of theſe Dominions. They have, what they call, three Caſtles, three Convents, and five Churches, and reckon about five thouſand Souls in their Com munity . The Inhabitants, as well as the Hiſtorians, who mention this little Republic, give the following Account of its original. St. Marino was its Foun der, a Dalmatian by Birth, and by Trade a Mafon . He was employed above thirteen hundred Years ago in the Reparation of Rimini, and, after he had ti niſh'd hisWork, retired to this ſolitary Mountain , as finding it very proper for the Life of the Hermit which he led in the greateſt Rigours and Auſterities of Religion. He had not been here long before he wrought a reputed Miracle, which, join’d with his extraordinary Sanctity , gain'd him ſo great an Eſteem , that the Princeſs of the Country made him a Preſent of the Mountain to diſpoſe of it at his own Diſcretion . His Reputation quickly peopled it, and gave Riſe to the Republic which calls itſelf after his Name. So that the Commonwealth of Marine may boaſt at leaſt of a nobler Original than that of Rome, the one having been at firſt an Aſylum for Robbers and Murderers, and the other a Reſort of Perſons eminent for their Piety and Devotion . The beſt of their Churches is dedicated to the Saint, and holds his Aſhes. His Statue ſtands over the high Altar, with the figure of a Mountain in its Hands, crown'd with three Caſtles, which is likewiſe the Arms of the Commonwealth. They attribute to his Protection the long Duration of their State, and look on him as the greateſt Saint next the Bleſſed Virgin . Iſaw in their Statute - Book a Law againſt ſuch as ſpeak diſreſpectfully of him , who are to be puniſhed in the ſame manner as thoſe who are convicted of Blaſphemy. E This 8.6 The Republic This petty Republic has now laſted thirteen hun . dred Years , while all the other States of Italy have feveral times changed their Maſters and Forms of Government. Their whole Hiſtory is compris'd in two Purchaſes, which they made of a neighbouring Prince, and in a War in which they affifted the Pope against a Lord of Rimini. In the Year 1 100 they bought a Caſtle in the Neighbourhood, as they did another in the Year 1170. The Papers of the Conditions are preſerv'd in their Archives, where ' ' cis very remarkable that the Name of the Agent for the Commonwealth , of the Seller , of the Notary, and the Witneſſes, are the ſame in both the Inftru ments, tho' drawn up at ſeventy Years diſtance from each other. Nor can it be any Miſtake in the Date, becauſe the Popes and Emperors Names, with the Year of their reſpective Reigns, are both punctually fet down. About two hundred and ninety Years after this, they affifted Pope Pius the Second againſt one of the Malatefta's, who was then Lord of Ri. mini ; and when they had helped to conquer him, received from the Pope, as a Reward for their Alfil tance, four little Caitles. This they repreſent as the Aouriſhing Time of the Commonwealth , when their Dominions reach'd half way up a neighbouring Hill ; but at preſent they are reduced to their old Extent. They would probably fell their Liberty as dear as they could to any that attacked them ; for there is but one Road by which to climb up to them, and they have a very ſevere Law againſt any of their own Body that enters the Town by another Path, left any new one ſhould be worn on the Sides of their Mountain . All that are capable of bearing Arms are exercis'd , and ready at a Moment's Call. Tte Sovereign Power of the Republic was lodg’d oliy in what they call the Arengo, a great Council of St. Marino. 87 e. cil in which every Houſe had its Repreſentative. But becauſe they found too much Confuſion in ſuch a multitude of Stateſmen, they devolv'd their whole Authority into the Hands of the Council of Sixty. The Arengo however is ſtill called together in Cafes of extraordinary Importance ; and if, after due Sum mons, any Member abſents himſelf, he is to be fin'd to the value of about a Peny Engliſh, which the Statue ſays he ſhall pay, Sine aliquă diminutione aut gratia . .. Without any Abatement or Favour. In the ordinary Courſe of Government, the Council of Sixty (which , notwithſtanding the Name, conſiſts but of forty. Perſons) has in its Hands the Adminiſtra tion of Affairs, and is made up half out of the Noble Families, andhalf out of the Plebeian . They de cide all by Baloting, are not admitted ' till five and twenty Years old , and chooſe the Officers of the Commonwealth . Thus far they agree with the Great Council of Venice ; but their Power is much more extended for no Sentence can ſtand that is not confirm'd by two Thirds of this Council. Beſides, that no Son can be admitted into it during the Life of his father, nor two be in it of the ſame Family , nor any enter but by Election . The chief Officers of the Com monwealth are the two Capitaneos, who have ſuch a Power as the old Roman Conſuls had, but are cholen every ſix Months. I talk'd with ſome that had been Capitaneos fix orſeven times, tho’the Office is never to be continu'd to the ſame Perſons twice fucceffively . The third Officer is the Commiſſary, who judgesin all Civil and Criminal Matters. But becauſe the many Alliances, Friendſhips, and Intermarriages, as well as the Perſonal Feuds and Animofities that hap pen among ſo ſmall a People, might obſtruct the Courſe of Juſtice, if one of their own Number had E 2 the

88 The Republic the Diſtribution of it, they have always a Foreigner for this Employ, whom they chooſe for three Years , and maintain out of the Public Stock . He muſt be a Doctor of Law, and a Man of known Integrity . He is join'd in Commiſſion with the Capitaneos, and acts ſomething like the Recorder of London under the Lord Mayor. The Commonwealth of Genoa was forc'd to make uſe of a foreign Judge for manyYears, whilſt their Republic was torn into the Diviſions of Guelphs and Gibelines. The fourth Man in the State is the Phyſician, who muſt likewiſe be a Stranger, and is maintain'd by a public Salary . He is oblig'd to keep a Horſe, to viſit the Sick, and to inſped all Drugs that are imported. He muſt be at leaſt thirty fiveYears old , a Doctor of the Faculty, and eminent for his Religion and Honefty ; that his Raſhneſs or Ig . norance may not unpeople the Commonwealth . And that they may not fuffer long under any bad Choice, he is elected only for three Years. The preſent Phy ſician is a very underſtanding Man, and well read in our Countrymen , Harvey, Willis, Sydenham , & c. He has been continued for ſome time among ' em , and they ſay the Commonwealth thrives under his Hands. Another Perſon , who makes no ordinary Figure in the Republic, is the School-Mafter. I ſcarce met with any in the Place that had not ſome Tincture of Learning. I hadthe Peruſal ofa Latin Book inFolio, intitled, Statuta Illuftriffimæ Reipublicæ SanctiMarini, printed at Rimini by order of the Commonwealth. The Chapter on the public Miniſters ſays, that when an Ambaffadar is diſpatch'd from the Republic to any ForeignState, heſhallbe allow'd , out of the Treaſury , to the Value of a Shilling a Day. The People are eſteem'd very honeſt and rigorous in the Execution of Juſtice, and ſeem to live more happy and contented among their Rocks and Snows, than others of the Italians of St. Marino. 89 Italians do in the pleaſanteft Valleys of the World, Nothing indeed can be a greater inſtance of the na tural Love that Mankindhas for Liberty, and of their Averſion to Arbitrary Government, than ſuch a favage Mountain cover'd with People, and the Campania of Rome, which lies in the fame Coun try, almoſt deſtitute of Inhabitants, E 3 3 Pefare, 1 Peſaro, Fano, Senigallia, Ancona, Loretto, &c. To R O M E. F ROM Rimini to Loretto the Towns. of Note are Pefaro, Fano, Senigallia , and Ancona. Fano receiv'd its Name from the Fane or Temple of Fortune that ſtood in it. One may ſtill ſee the Triumphal Arch erectedthere to Au guſtus : It is indeed very much defaced by Time ; but the plan of it , as it ſtood intire with all its Inſcriptions, is neatly cut upon theWallof a neigh bouring Building. In each of theſe Towns is a beautiful Marble Fountain, where the Water runs continually thro ' ſeveral little Spouts, which looks very refreſhing in theſe hot Countries, and gives a great Coolneſs to the Air about them. That of Peſaro is handſomlydeſigned. Ancona is much the moſt conſiderable of theſe Towns. “ It ſtands on a Promontory , and looks more beautiful at a diſtance than when you are in it . The Port was made by Trajan, for which he has a TriumphalArch erected to him by the Sea- ſide. The Marble of this Arch looks very white and freſh , as being expoſed to the Winds Peſaro, Fano, Senigallia , &c . 91 Winds and falt Sea-vapours, that by continually fretting it preſerves itſelf from that mouldy Colour, which others of the fame Materials have contracted . Tho' the Italians and Voyage-Writers call theſe of Rimini, Fano, and Ancona, TriumpbalArches, there was probably ſome Diſtinction made among the Romans between ſuch honorary Arches erected to Emperors, and thoſe that were rais'd to them on account of a Victory, which are properly Trium phal Arches. This.at Ancona was an Inſtance of Gratitude to Trajan for the Port he had made there, as the two others I have mention'a were probably for fome Reaſon of the ſame nature . One may however obſerve theWiſdom of the ancient Romans, who, to encourage their Emperors in their Incli nation of doing good to their Country, gave the ſame Honours to the great Actions of Peace, which turn'd to the Advantage of the Public , as to thoſe of War. This is very remarkable in the Medals that were ftamp'd on the fame Occaſions. I re member to have ſeen one of Galba's, with a Tri umphal Arch on the Reverſe, that was made by the Senate's Order for bis having remitted a Tax. R. X X X X. REMISSA. S.C. The Medal, which was made for Trajan, in Remembrance of his Beneficence to Ancona , is very common . The Reverſe has on it a Port with a Chain running acroſs it, and betwixt them both a Boat, with this Inſcrip tion, S.P.Q. R. OPTIMO PRINCIPI. S.C. E 4 I 92 Peſaro, Fano, Senigallia, &c. 91 0 PR POETIN CIPI SC I know, Fabretti would fain aſcribe this Medal to another Occaſion ; but Bellorio, in his Additions to Angeloni, has ſufficiently refuted all he ſays on that Subject. ät Loretto I inquir'd for the Engliſh Jeſuits Lodgings, and on the Stair - Cafe that leads to 'em I ſaw ſeveral Pictures of ſuch as had been Exe cuted Ancona, Loretto, &c. to Rome. 93 us. cuted in England, as the two Garnets, Old - Corn, and others, to the number of thirty. Whatever were their Crimes, the Inſcription ſays they ſuffer'd for their Religion , and ſome of ' em are repreſented lying under ſuch Tortures as are not in uſe among The Martyrs of 1679 are ſet by themſelves, with a Knife ſtuck in the Boſom of each Figure, to fignify that they were quarter'd. The Riches in the Holy Houſe and Treaſury are ſurpriſingly great, andas much ſurpaſs’d myExpec tation as other Sights have generally fallen ſhort of it Silver can ſcarce find an Admiſſion , and Gold it felf looks but poorly among ſuch an incredible Num ber of precious Stones, There will be, in a few , Ages more, the Jewels of the greateſt Value in Eu r.ope, if the Devotion of its Princes continues in its preſent Fervour. The laſt Offering was made by the Queen Dowager of Poland, and coſt her 18000" Crowns. Some have wonder'd that the Turk never: attacks this Treaſury, ſince it lies fo near the Sea ſhore, and is . lo weakly guarded . But beſides that he has attempted it formerly with no Succeſs, it is certain the Venetians keep too watchful an Eye over his Motions at preſent, and would never ſuffer him to enter the Adriatic. It would indeed be an eaſy. thing for a Chriſtian Prince to furpriſe it , who has Ships ftill paſſing to and fro without Suſpicion, eſpe cially if he had a Party in the Town, diſguis'd like Pilgrims to ſecure a Gate for him ; for there have been ſometimes to the Numberof 100000 in a Day's time, as it is generallyreported. But' tis probable the Veneration for the Holy Houſe, and the Horror of an Action that would be refented by all the Ca tholic Princes of Europe, will be as great a Security to the place as the ſtrongeft Fortification. It is in deed an amazing thing to ſee ſuch a prodigious.Quan E tily 5 94 Peſaro, Fano, Senigallia , tity of Riches lie dead, and untouch'd in the midſt offo much Poverty and Miſery as reign on all Sides of 'em. There is no queſtion, however, but the Pope would make uſe of theſe Treaſures in caſe of any great Calamity that ſhould endanger the Holy See ; as an unfortunate War with the Túrk , or a powerful League among the Proteſtants. For I can't but look on thoſe vaſt Heaps of Wealth, that are ámaſs’d together in ſomany religiousPlaces of Italy, as the hidden Reſerves and Magazines of the Church , that ſhe would open on any preſſing Occaſion for her laſt Defence and Preſervation. If theſe Riches were all turn'd into current Coin , and employd in Com merce, they would make Italy the moft Aourifhing Country in Europe. The Caſe of the Holy Houſe is nobly deſign'd , and executed by the great Maſters of Italy that Aouriſh'd about a hundred Years ago. The Statues of the Sibyls are very finely wrought, each of 'em in a different Air and Poſture, as are likewife thofe of the Prophets underneath 'em . The Roof of the Treaſury is painted with the ſamekind of Device. There ſtands at the upperend ofit a large Crucifix very much eſteem'd, the Figure of our Saviour repreſents him in his laſt Agonies of Death , and amidft all the Ghaftlineſs of the Vifage has ſome thing in it very amiable. The Gates of theChurchi are ſaid to be of Corinthian Braſs, with many Scrip ture Stories riſing on 'em in Baffa Relievo. The Pope's Statue, and the Fountain by it , would make a noble Show in a Place leſs beautified with ſo many other Productions of Art. The Spicery, the Cellar and its Furniture, the greatRevenues of the Convent, with the Story of the Holy Houſe, are too well known to be here inſiſted upon . Whoever were the firſt Inventors of this Impofture, they ſeem to have taken the Hint of it from the Ve neration Ancona, Loretto, &c, to Rome. 95 2 neration that the old Romans paid to the Cottage of Romulus, which ſtood on Mount Capitol, and was repair'd fromtimeto time as it felltodecay. Vir gil has given a pretty Image of this little thatch'd Palace, that repreſents it ftanding in Manlius's Time, 327 Years after the Death of Romulus. In ſummo cuftos Tarpeiæ Manlius arcis Stabat pro templo, & Capitolia celfa tenebat : Romuleoque recens horrebat Regia culmo. Æn, Lib. viii . v. 652. High on a Rock Heroic Manlius ſtood To guard the Temple, and the Temple's God : Then Romewas poor, andthere you might behold The Palace thatch'd with Straw. Dryden . From Loretto , in my way to Roms, I pafs'd thro' Recanati, Macerata, Tolentino, and Poligni. In the laſt there is a Convent of Nuns callid la.Conteſſa , that has in the Church an incomparable Madonna of Raphael. At Spoletto, the next Town on the Road, ate ſome Antiquities . The moſt remarkable is an Aqueduct of a Gothic Structure, that conveys the Water from Mount St. Francis to Spoletto, which is not to be equallid for its height by any other in Eis tope. They reckon from the Foundation of the loweſt Arch to the Top of it 230 Yards. In my way hence to Terni I ſaw the River Clitumnus, ce lebrated by fo many of the Poets for a particular Qua lity in its Waters of making Cattle white that drink of it . The Inhabitants of that Country have ſtill the fame Opinion of it , as I found upon Inquiry, and haye a great many Oxen of a whitiſh Colourto confirm ' em in it . It is probable this Breed was firſt ſettled in the Country , and continuing ſtill the ſame Species, has made the Inhabitants impute it to a wrongCauſe ; thio' they 96 . Peſaro, Faro, Senigallia , they may as well fancy their Hogs turn black for fome Reaſon of the fame Nature, becauſe there are none in Italy of any other Breed : The River Cli tumnus, and Mevania that ftood on the Banks of it, are famous for the Herds of Victims with which they furniſh'd all Italy. Quàformoſa ſuo Clitumnusflumina luco Integit,&niveos abluit unda boves. Prop. Lib. ii . Eleg. 19. v. 25 , Shaded with Trees, Clitumnus Waters glide, And milk -white Oxen drink its beauteous Tide.. Hinc Albi, Clitumne,, greges, & maxima Taurus, Vietima, ſæpe tuo perfufi fuminefacro, Romanos ad Templa. Deúm duxere triumphos. Virg. Georg . H. V , 146 .. There flows Clitumnus thro ' the flow'ry Plain ; Whoſe Waves, for Triumphs after profp'rous War , The Victim Ox, and Snowy Sheep prepare. Patulis Clitumnus in Arvis Candentes gelido perfunditflumine Tauros. Sil . Ital. Lib. iii. Its cooling Stream Clitumnus pours along; To wath the ſnowy Kine, that on its Bordersthrong. Tauriferis ubi fe Mevania campis Explicat Luc. Lib. i . V: 468.. Where Cattle graze in fair Mevania's Fields. Atque ubi. latis Projella in campis nebulas exhalat inertes, Arcona, Loretto, &c . to Rome. 97 - Etfedet ingentem pafcens Mevania taurum, - Dona Jovi Id . Here fair.Mevania's pleaſant Fields extend; Whence riſing Vapours ſluggiſhly aſcend ; Where, 'midſt the Herd that in its Meadows rove, Feeds the large Bull,, a Sacrifice to Jove. Nec ſi vacuer Mevania valles, Aut præſtent niveos Clitumna novalia tauros, Sufficiam Stat. Syl. iv. Lib. i. Tho' fair Mevania ſhould exhauft her Field ; Or his white Kine the ſwift Clitumnus yield , Still I were poor Pinguior Hiſpulla traheretur taurus,et ipſa Mole piger, non finitimâ nutritus in herba; Lætaſed oftendens Clitumni paſcua fanguis Iret, et à grandi cervixferienda Miniſtro. Juv. Sat. xii. ver , i I .. A Bull high - fed ſhould fall the Sacrifice, One of Hiſpulle's huge prodigious Size : Not one of thoſe our neighb'ring Paſtures feed , But of Glitumnus" whiteł Sacred Breed : Thelively Tincture of whoſe guſhing Blood Should clearly prove the Richneſs of his Food : A Neck fo ſtrong, lo large, as would command The ſpeeding Blow of ſome uncommonHand. Congreve LI 1 I ſhall afterwards have occafion to quote Clau dian .. Terni is the next Town in courſe, formerly call’d Interamna , for the ſame Reaſon that a part of Afia was nam'd Meſopotamia. We enter at the Gate of the 98 Peſaro, Fano, Senigallia, the three Monuments, ſo call'd becauſe there ftood near it. a Monument erected to Tacitus: the Hi ftorian, with two others to the Emperors Tacitus and Florianas, all of them Natives of the Place. Theſewere a few Years ago demolith'd by Thunder, and the Fragments of them are in the Hands of fome Gentlemen of the Town. Near the Dome I was ſhown a ſquare Marble, inſerted in the Wall, with the following Inſcription . Saluti perpetua Huguſte Libertatique Publica Populi Romani : * r Genio municipi Anno poft Interamnam Cenditam . D. CC. IV. Ad Cneiuin Domitium Ahenobarbum . Coll providentia Ti. Caſaris Auguſti nati ad Eternitatem Romaninominisfublato hofte perniciofifſimo P. R. Fauſtis Titius Liberalis VI. vir iterum . P. S. F. C. that is , pecunia fua fieri curavit . This Stone was probably ſet up on occafion of the Fall of Sejanus. After the Nameof Ahenobar. bus there is a little Furrow in the Marble, but fo ſmooth and well polith'd, that I ſhould not have taken notice of it had I not ſeen Cof: at the end of it, by which it is plain there wasonce the Name of another Conſul, which has been induſtriouſly razed out. Lucius Aruncius Camillus Scribonianus was Conſul, under the Reign of Tiberius, and was afterwards put to Death for a Conſpiracy that in Vid . Faft . Conſul. Sicul, he Ancona, Loretto, &c, to Rome. 99 he had form'd againft the Emperor Claudius ; which time it was order'd that his Name and Con fulate fhould be effaced out of all public Regifters and Inſcriptions. It is not therefore improbable, that it wasthis long Name which fill'd up the Gap I am nowmentioning. There are near this Monu ment the Ruins of an ancient Theatre, with fome of the Caves intire. I faw among the Ruins an old Heathen Altar, with this Particularity in it , that it is hollow'd , like a Diſh , at one End; but it was not this End on which the Sacrifice was Jaid , as one may gueſs from the Make of the Fe ftoon, that runs round the Altar, and is inverted when the Hollow ftands uppermoft. In the fame Yard, among the Rubbiſh of the Theatre, lie two Pillars, the one ofGranate, and the other of a very beautiful Marble. I went out of my way to ſee the farnous Caſcade about three Miles fromTerni. It is form'd by the Fall of the Rivet Velino, which Virgil mentions in the Seventh Æneid -Rolea rura Velini. The Channel of this River lies very high, and is fhaded on all ſides by a green Foreſt, made up of ſeveral kinds of Trees, that preſerve their Verdure all the Year. The neighbouring Mountains are co vered with them, and by reaſonof their Height are moré expos’d to the Dews and drizzling Rains than any of the adjacent Parts, which gives occaſion to Virgil's Roſea rura (Dewy Countries). The River runs extremely rapid before its Fall, and ruſhes down a Precipice of a hundred Yards high. It throws itſelf into the hollow Rock, which has probably been worn by fuch a conſtant Fall of Water. It is impoſſible to ſee the Bottom on which it breaks, for the Thickneſs of the Mift that riſes from it, which looks at a diſtance like Clouds of Smoke aſcending 100 Peſaro, Fano, Senigallia , afcending from fome vaft Furnace, and diftils in per petual Rains on all the Places that lie near it. I think there is ſomething more aſtoniſhing in this Caſcade, than in all the Water-worksof Verſailles, and could not but wonder when I firſt ſaw it, that I had never met with it in any of the old Poets, ef pecially in Claudiax , who makes his Emperor Ho norius go out of his way to ſee the River Nar, which runs juſt below it, and yet does not mention what would have been ſo great an Embelliſhment to his Poems. But at preſent I don't in the leaſt question , notwithſtanding the Opinion of ſome learned Men to the contrary , that this is the Gulf thro' which Virgil's Alecto ſhoots herſelf into Hell: for the very Place, the great Reputation of it, the Fall of Wa ters, the Woodsthat encompaſs ity, with the Smoke and Noiſe that arife from it, are all pointed at in the Deſeription . Perhaps he would not mention the Name of the River, becauſe he has done it in the Verſes that precede. Wemay add to this, that the Caſcade is not far off that part of.Italy, which has. been call's Italia. Meditullium . Eft locus Italiæ medio, fub montibus altisa, Nobilis, et famå multis memoratusin oris, Amfanéti valles ; denfis hunc frondibus atrum Urget utrinque latus nemoris, medioque fragojus. Datfonitum faxis,et torto vortice torrens : Hic ſpecus horrendum , &fæviſpiracula Ditis Monſtrantur, ruptoque ingens Acherontevorago Peftiferas aperit fauces, queis condita Erinnys, Inviſum Numen, terras cælumque levabat. Æn. vii. v. 563. In midſt of Italy, well known to Fame, There lies aVale, Amfan &tus is the Name, Below : Ancona, Loretto, & c. to Rome. 101 Below the lofty Mounts : On either ſide Thick Foreſts the forbidden. Entrance hide : Full in the Centerof the ſacred Wood An Arm ariſeth of the Stygian Flood ; Which falling from on high with bellowing Sound, Whirls the black Waves and rattling Stones around . Here Pluto pants for Breath from out his Cell, And opens wide the grinning Jaws of Hell. To this infernal Gate the Fury flies, Here hides her hated Head, and frees the lab'ring Skies. Dryden . from It was indeed the moſtproper Place in the World for a Fury to make her Exit, after ſhe had filled a Nation with Diſtractions and Alarms; and I believe every Reader's Imagination is pleas'd , when he fees the angry Goddeſs thus ſinking, as it were, in a Tempeft, and plunging herſelf into Hell, amidft ſuch a Scene of Horror and Confuſion . The River Velino, after having found its way out among the Rocks where it falls, runs into the Nera. The Channel of this laſt River is white with Rocks, and the Surface of it for a long Space, cover'd with Froth and Bubbles ; for it runs all along upon the Fret, and is ſtill breaking againſt the Stones that oppoſe its Paſſage: So that for theſe Reaſons, as well as for the Mixture of Sulphur in its Waters, it is very well deſcrib’d by Virgil, in that Verſe which mentions theſe two Rivers in their old Roman Names. Tartaream intendit vocem , quá protinusomne Contremuit nemus, et fylve intonuere profunde, Audiit et longè Trivia lacus, audiit amnis Sulfureâ Nar albus aquà, fonteſque Velini. Æn. vii. V. 514. The IO2 Peſaro, Fano, Senigallia, The ſacred Lake of Trivia from afar, The Veline Fountains, and Sulphureous Nar, Shake at the baleful Blaſt; theSignal of the War. Dryden . He makes the Sound of the Fury's Trumpet runi up the Nera to the very Sources of Velino, which agrees extremely well with the Situation of theſe Rivers. When Virgil has mark'd any particular Quality in a River, the other Poets feldom fail of copying after him. i Sulphureus Nar. Aulona The fulphureous Nar. Narque albefcentibus undis In Tibrim properans Sil. Ital. Lib . viii. Et Nar vitiatus odoro Sulfure Cląud. de Pr. & Olyb. Confe The hoary Nar Corrupted with the Stench of Sulphur flows, And into Tiber's Streams th ' infected Current throws: From this River our next Town on the Road res ceives the Name of Narni. I ſaw hereabouts no thing remarkable except Auguftus's Bridge, that ftands half a Mile from the Town, and is one of the ſtatelieſt Ruins in Italy. It has no Cement, and looks as firm as one intire Stone. There is an Arch of it unbroken , the broadeſt that I have ever feen , tho' by reafon of its great Height it does not ape pear ſo. The middle one wasſtill much broader. They join'd together two Mountains, and belong’d, without doubt, to the Bridge that Martial men tions, Ancona, Loretto, &c. to Rome. 103 tions, tho' Mr. Ray takes them to be the Remains of an Aqueduct. Sed jam parce mihi, nec abutere Narnia Quinto ; Perpetuò liceat ſic tibi pontefrui! Lib. vii . Epigr. 93 . Preferve my better part, and ſpare myFriend ; So, Narni, may thy Bridge for ever ſtand. From Narni I went to Otricoli, a very mean little Village, that ſtands where the Caſtle of Ocri. culum did formerly. I turn'd about half a Mile out of the Road, to ſee the Ruins of the old Ocri culum , that lie near the Banks of the Tiber. There are ftill ſcatter'a Pillars and Pedestals , huge Pieces of Marble, half buried in the Earth , Fragments of Towers , Subterraneous Vaults, Bathing. Places, and like Marks of its ancient Magnificence. In my way to Rome, ſeeing ahigh Hill ſtand ing by itſelf in the Campania, I did not queſtion but it had a Claffic Name, and upon Enquiry found it to be Mount Sorate. The Italians at preſent call it, becaufe its Name begins with an S, St. Oreſte. The Fatigue of our croſling the Apennines, and of our whole Journey from Loretto to Rome, was very agreeably reliev'd by the Variety of Sceneswe pafs'd thro '. For not to mention the rude Profpect of Rocks riſing one above another, of the deep Gutters worn in the Sides of them by Torrents of Rain and Snow - water, or the long Channels of Sand winding about their Bottoms, that are ſome times filled with ſo many Rivers ; we ſaw , in fix Days travelling, the feveral Seafons of the Year in their Beauty and Perfection. We were fometimes ſhivering 104 Pefaro, Fano, Senigallia, ſhivering on the top of a bleak Mountain , and a little while after basking in a warm Valley, cover ed with Violets, and Almond-trees in Bloſſom , the Bees already ſwarming over them , tho' but in the Month of February. Sometimes our Road led us thro' Groves of Olives, or by Gardens of Oranges, or into ſeveral hollow Apartments among the Rocks and Mountains, that look like ſo many na tural Green -houſes ; as being always ſhaded with a great Variety of Trees and Shrubs that never loſe their Verdure. I ſhall ſay nothing of the Via Flaminia , which has been ſpoken of by moſtofthe Voyage -Writers that have pafsd it , but ſhall ſet down Claudian's Account of the Journey that Honorius made from Ravenna to Rome, which lies moſt of it in the fame Road that I have been deſcribing. Antique muros egreſa Ravenna Signa movet , jamque ora Padi portufque relinquit Flumineos, certis ubi legibus advena Nereus Æfluat, et pronas puppes nunc amne fecundo, Nunc redeunte vehit, nudataque littora fluctu Deferit, Oceani Lunaribus emula damnis ; Letior hinc Fano recipit Fortuna vetufto, Defpiciturque vagus præruptá valle Metaurus,

• Quà mons arte patens vivo ſe perforat Arcu ,

Admifitque viamſecte per viſcera rupis, Exuperans delubra 7ovis, faxeque minantes Apenninigenis cultas paftoribus aras : Quin et Clitumni facras victoribus undas, Candida quæ Latiis præbent armenta triumphis, 12

• An Highway made by. Vefpafian, like the Grotto Obfcuro near Naples.

Vilere Ancona, Loretto, &c. to Rome, 105 Vifere.cura fuit. Nec te miracula Fontis Prætereunt: tacito pafſu quemfi quis adiret, Lentus erat ; ſi voce gradummajore citáffet, Commiftis fervebataquis : cùmque omnibus una Sit natura vadis, fimiles ut corporis umbras Oftendant, hæcfola novam jactantia fortem Humanos properant imitarifluminamores. Celfa dehinc patulum prospectans Narnia campum Regali calcatur equo, rarique coloris Non procul amnis abeft urbi, qui nominis auctor Ilice ſub densåſylvis aretatus opacis Inter utrumquejugum tortis anfra &tibus albet. Indefalutato libatis Tibride Nymphis, Excipiunt arcus, operofaque ſemita , vaftis Molibus, a quicquid tantepremittitur urbi. De fexto Conf. Hon . They leave Ravenna, and the Mouths of Pa, That all the Borders of the Town o'erflow ; And ſpreadinground inone continu'd Lake, A ſpacious hoſpitable Harbour make. Hither the Seas at ſtated times reſort, And ſhove the loaden Vefſels into Port ; Then with a gentle Ebb retire again , And render back their Cargo to the Main . So the pale Moon the reſtleſs Ocean guides, Driv'n to and fro by ſuch ſubmiſſive Tides. Fair Fortune next with Looks ſerene and kind, Receives ' em , in her ancient Fane enſhrin'd ; Then the high Hills they croſs, and from below In diftant Murmurs hear Metaurus flow, ' Till to Clitumno's ſacred Streams they come, That ſend white Victims to Almighty Rome; .. The Fountain not known , When 106 Peſaro, Fano, Senigallia, When her triumphant Sons in War ſucceed, And Naughter'd Hecatombs around 'em bleed. At Narni's lofty Seats arriv’d, from far They view the Windings of the hoary Nar ; Through Rocks and Woods impetuouſly he glides, While Froth and Foam the fretting Surface hides . And now the Royal Gueſt, all Dangers paſs'd , Old Tiber and his Nymphs ſalutes at laſt ; The long laborious Pavement here he treads, That to proud Rome the admiring Nations leads ; While ftately Vaults and tow'ring Piles appear, And ſhow the World's Metropolis is near . Silius Italicus, who has taken more Pains on the Geography of Italy than any other of the Latin Poets, has given a Catalogue of moſt of the Rivers that I ſaw in Umbria , or in the Borders of it . He has avoided a Fault ( if it be really ſuch) which Ma. crobius has objected to Virgil, of paſſing from one Place to another, without regarding their regular and natural Situation , in which Homer's Catalogues are obſerv'd to be much more methodical and exact than Virgil's. Cavis.venientes montibus Umbri, Hos Æfis Sapiſque lavant, rapidaſque fonanti Vortice contorquens undas per ſaxa Metaurus: Et lavat ingentem perfundens fiumine facro Clitumnus taurum , Narque albeſcentibus undis In Tibrim properans, Tiniæque inglorius humor , Et Clanis, er Rubico, et Senonumde nomine Senon. Sed pater ingenti medios illabitur amne Albula , et immotâ perftringit næenia ripå, His urbes, Arna, et latis Mevania pratis, Hiſpellum , et..duro monti perfaxa recumbens Narnia , & c. Sil , Ital. Lib . viii. The 警9 / Ancona, Loretto, &c. to Rome. 107 The Umbri, that from hollow Mountains came; Theſe Æfisand the Stream of Sapis laves ; And ſwift Metaurus, that with japid Waves O'er Beds of Stone its noiſy current pours : Clitumnus, that preſents its facred Stores, To waſh the Bull: the Nar's infected Tide, Whoſe ſulph'rous Waters into Tiber glide : Tinia's ſmall Stream , that runs inglorious on : The Clanis, Senon, and the Rubicon : With larger Waters, and ſuperior Sway, Amidſt the reft, the hoary Albula Thro' Fields and Towns purſues his watry Wayy.} Since I am got among the Poets, I ſhall end this Chapter with two or three Paſſages out of them , that I have omitted inſerting in their proper Places. Sit Ciſterna mihi quam Vinea malo Ravenna, Cùm poffim multo vendere pluris Aquam . Mart. Lib. iii. Epigr. 56. Lodg'd at Ravenna, (Water ſells ſo dear) A Ciſtern to . a Vineyard I prefer. Callidus impofuit nuper mihi Caupo Ravennæ ; Cum peterem mixtum , vendidit ille merum . Id . ib . Epigr. 57. By a Ravenna Vintner once betray'd , So much for Wine and Water mix'd I paid ; But when I thought the purchas'd Liquor mine, The Raſcal fobb’d me off with only Wine. Stat 108 Peſaro, Fano, Senigallia, &c. Statfucare colus, nec Sidone vilior Ancon , Murice nec Tyrio Sil . Ital. Lib . vii , The Wool, when ſhaded with Ancona's Dye , May with the proudeft Tyrian Purple vie. Fountain Water is ſtill very ſcarce at Ravenna, and was probably much more ſo, when the Sea was within its Neighbourhood. TUTUMUN 11 FROM FROM R Ro M E. Τ Ο N A P L E S. PON my Arrival at Rome I took a View of St. Peter's, and the Rotunda, leaving the reſt 'till my Return from Naples, when I ſhould have Time and Leiſure enough to conſider what I ſaw . St. Peter's ſeldom anſwers Expectation at firſt entring it, but enlarges itſelf on all ſides in fenfibly , and mends upon the Eye every Moment, The Proportions are ſo very well obſerv’d , that no thing appears to an Advantage, or diſtinguiſhes itſelf above the reſt. It ſeems neither extremely high , nor long, nor broad, becauſe it is all of them in a juſt Equality. As on the contrary in our Gothic Cathedrals, the Narrowneſs of the Arch makes it riſe in Height, or run out in Length ; the Low neſs often opens it in Breadth, or the Defective neſs of ſome other Particular makes any ſingle Part appear in great Perfection. Tho' every thing in this Church is admirable, the moſt aſtoniſhing Part F IIO From Rome to Naples. of it is the Cupola. Upon mygoing to the top of it , I was ſurpris’d to find that the Dome, which we ſee in the Church , is not the ſame that one looks upon without Doors, the laſt of them being a kind of Caſe to the other, and the Stairs lying betwixt them both , by which one aſcends into the Ball. Had there been only the outward Dome, it would not have ſhewn itlelf to an Advantage to thoſe that are in the Church ; or had there only been the in ward one, it would ſcarce have been ſeen by thofe that are without ; had they both been one folid Dome of ſo great a Thickneſs, the Pillars would have been too weak to have ſupported it. After having ſurvey'd this Dome, I wentto ſee the Rotun da, which is generally ſaid to have been the Model of it. This Church is at preſent ſo muchchang'd from the ancient Pantheon , as Pliny has deſcrib'd it, that ſome have been inclin'd to think it not the fame Temple ; but the Cavalier Fontana has abun dantly ſatisfy’d the World in this Particular, and ſhewn how the ancient Figure, and Ornaments of the Pantheon , have been chang'd into what they are at preſent. This Author, who is now efteem'd the beſt of the Roman Architects, has lately written a Treatiſe on Veſpaſian's Amphitheatre, which is not After having ſeen theſe two Maſter-pieces of Modern and Ancient Architecture , I have often conſider'd with myſelf, whether the ordinary Fi gure of the Heathen , or that of the Chriſtian Tem ples be the moſt beautiful, and the moſt capable of Magnificence, and can't forbear thinking the Croſs Figure more proper for ſuch ſpacious Build ings thanthe Rotund. I muſt confeſs the Eye is much better fill'd at firſt entering the Rotund, and takes in the whole Beauty and Magnificence of the yet printed. From Rome to Naples. III the Temple at one view . But ſuch as are built in the Form of a Crofs give us a greater Variety of Noble Proſpects. Nor is it eaſy to conceive a more glorious Show in Architecture, than what a Man meets with in St. Peter's, when he ffands un der the Dome. If he looks upward , he is aſto niſhed at the ſpacious Hollow of the Cupola, and has a Vault on every ſide of him, that makes one of the beautifulleſt Viftas that the Eye can poſſi bly paſs thro'. I know that ſuch as are profeſs’d Admirers of the Ancients will find abundance of chimerical Beauties, the Architects themſelves ne. ver thought of ; as one of the moſt Famous of the Modern in that Art tells us, the Hole in the Roof of the Rotunda is ſo admirably contriv'd , that it makes thoſe who are in the Temple look like Angels, by diffuſing the Light equally on all ſides of them. In all the old Highways that lead from Rome, one Tees ſeveral little Ruins on each ſide of them , that were formerly ſo many Sepulchers ; for the an cient Romans generally bury'd their Dead near the great Roads. Quorum Flaminia tegitur cinis atque Latina . ' Juv. Sat. i . v. ult. Whoſe Aſhes lay Under the Latin and Flaminian Way. None but ſome few of a very extraordinary Quality, having been interred within the Walls of the City. Our Chriſtian Epitaphs, that are to be ſeen only in Churches, or Churchyards, begin often with a Siſte Viator ; t'iator precare falutem , & c. pro bably in Imitation of the old Roman Inſcriptions, that generally addreſs'd themſelves to the Travel F 2 lers ; 112 From Rome to Naples. lers ; as it was impoſſible for them to enter the City, or to go out of it , without paſſing thro' one of theſe melancholy Roads, which for agreat Length was nothing elſe but a Street of Funeral Monuments. In my way from Rome to Naples I found no thing ſo remarkable as the Beauty of the Country, and the extreme Poverty of its Inhabitants. It is indeed an amazing thing to ſee the preſent Deſola . tion of Italy, when oneconſiders what incredible Multitudes of People it abounded with during the Reigns of the Roman Emperors : And notwithſtand ing the Removal of the Imperial Seat, the Irrup tions of the barbarous Nations, the Civil Wars of this Country, with the Hardſhips of its ſeveral Go vernments, one can ſcarce imagine how ſo plentiful a Soil ſhould become ſo miſerably unpeopled in com pariſon of what it once was. We may reckon, by a very moderate Computation, more Inhabitants in the Campania of old Rome, than are now in all Italy, And if we could number up thoſe prodigious Swarms that had ſettled themſelves in every Part of this delightful Country, I queſtion not but that they would amount to more than can be found, at pre ſent, in any fix Parts of Europe of the fame Extent. This Deſolation appears no where greater than in the Pope's Territories ; and yet there are ſeveral Reaſons would make a Man expect to ſee theſe Dominions the beſt regulated, and moſt flouriſhing of any other in Europe. Their Prince is generally a Man of Learning and Virtue, mature in Years and Experience, who has feldom any Vanity or Pleaſure to gratify at his People's Expence, and is neither incumber’d with Wife, Children , or Miſtreſ. fes ; not to mention the ſuppos'd Sanctity of his Character, which obliges him in a more particular manner to conſult the Good and Happineſs of Man. kind. From Rome to Naples. 113 kind. The Direction of Church and State are lodg'd intirely in his own Hands, ſo that his Govern ment is naturally free from thoſe Principles of Fac tion and Diviſion , which are mix'd in the very Compoſition of moſt others. His Subjects are als waysready to fall in with his Deſigns, and are more at his Diſpoſal than any others of the most abſolute Government, as they have a greater Veneration for his ' Perſon, and not only court his Favour but his Bleſſing. His Country is extremely fruitful, and has good Havens both for the Adriatic and Medi terranean, which is an Advantage peculiar to him ſelf, and the Neapolitans, above the reſt of the Italians. There is ſtill a Benefit the Pope enjoys above all other Sovereigns, in drawing great Sums out of Spain , Germany, and other Countries that belong to Foreign Princes, which one would fancy might be no ſmall Eaſe to his own Subjects. We may here add , that there is no Place in Europe ſo much frequented by Strangers, whether they are ſuch as come out of Curioſity or ſuch who are obliged to attend the Court of Rome on ſeveral Oc caſions, as are many of the Cardinals and Prelates, that bring confiderable Sums into the Pope's Domi nions. But notwithſtanding all theſe promiſing Cir cumſtances, and the long Peace that has reign'd ſo many Years in Italy, there isnot a more miſerable People in Europe than the Pope's Subjects. His State is thin of Inhabitants, and a great Part of his Soil uncultivated. His Subjects are wretchedly poor and idle , and have neither ſufficient Manufactures nor Traffic to employ them . Theſe ill Effects may ariſe, in a great meaſure, out of the Arbia trarineſs of the Government ; but I think they are chiefly to be aſcrib’d to the very Geniusof the Ro man Catholic Religion, which here thews itſelf F 3 in 114 From Rometo Naples. in its Perfection . It is not ftrange to find a Country half unpeopled, where ſo great a Proportion of the Inhabitants of both Sexes is ty’d under ſuch Vows of Chaſtity, and where at the fame time an Inqui ſition forbids all Recruits out of any other Religion . Nor is it leſs eaſy to account for the great Poverty and Want that are to be met with in a Country, which invites into it ſuch Swarms of Vagabonds, under the Title of Pilgrims, and futs up in Cloiſters ſuch an incredible Multitude of young and lufty Beggars, who, inſtead of increaſing the common Stock by their Labour and Induſtry , lie as a dead Weight on their Fellow - Subjects, and conſume the Charity that ought to ſupport the Sickly , Old and Decrepid. The many Hoſpitals, that are every where erected, ſerve rather to encourageIdleneſs in the People, than to ſet them at Work ; not to mention the great Riches which lie uſeleſs in Churches and Religious Houſes, with the Multitude of Feſtivals that muſt never be violated by Trade or Buſineſs. To ſpeak truly, they are here ſo wholly taken up with Mens Souls, that they neglect the good of their Bodies ; and when, to theſe natural Evils in the Government and Religion , there ariſes among them an avaricious Pope, who is for making a Family, it is no wonder if the People ſink 'under fuch a Complicationof Diſtempers. Yet it is to this Humour of Nepotiſm that Rome owes its preſent Splendor and Magnificence ; for it would have been impoſſible to have furniſh'd out ſo many glorious Palaces with fach a Profufion of Pictures, Statues, and the like Ornaments, had not the Riches of the People at feveral times fallen into the Hands of many different Families, and of particular Perſons; as we may obſerve, tho' the Bulk of the Roman People was more rich and happy in the times of the Commons From Rome to Naples. IIS Commonwealth , the City of Rome receiv'd all its Beauties and Embelliſhments under the Emperors. It is probable the Campania of Rome, as well as other Parts of the Pope's Territories, would be cul tivated much better than it is, were there not ſuch an exorbitant Tax on Corn , which makes them plow up only ſuch ſpots of Ground as turn to the moſt Advantage : Whereas were the Money to be rais'd on Lands, with an Exception to ſome of the more barren Parts, that might be Tax - free for a certain Term of Years, every one would turn his Ground to the beſt Account, and in a little time per haps bring more Money into the Pope's Treaſury. The greateſt Pleaſure I took in myJourney from Rome to Naples was in ſeeing the Fields, Towns, and Rivers, that have been deſcrib'd by ſo many Claflic Authors, and have been the Scenes of lo many great Actions; for this whole Road is ex tremely barren of Curioſities. It is worth while to have an Eye on Horace's Voyage to Brundiſi, when one paſſes this Way ; for by comparing his ſeveral Stages, and the Road he took, with thoſe that are obſerv'd at preſent, we may have ſome Idea of the Changes that have been made in the face of this Country fince his time. If we may gueſs at the common travelling of Perſons of Quality, among the ancient Romans, from this Poet's Deſcription of his Voyage, we may conclude they feldom went above fourteen Miles a Day over the Appian Way, which was more us'd by the Noble Romans than any other in Italy, as it led to Naples, Baïe , and the moſt delightful Parts of the Nation, it is indeed very diſagreeable to be carry'd in haſte over this Pavement, F4 Minus 116 From Rome to Naples. Minùs eft gravis Appia tardis. Hor. Sat. 5. 1. i. v . 6. For to quick Trav'lers, ' tis a tedious Road ; But if you walk but flow , 'tis pretty good. Creech . Lucan has deſcrib’d the very Road from Anxur to Rome, that Horace took from Rome to Anxur. It is not indeed the ordinary Way at preſent, nor is it mark'd out by the ſame Places in both Poets. Jamque et præcipitesfuperaverat Anxuris arces, Et quà *Pontinas via dividit uda paludes; Quà fublimenemus, Scythicæ quà regna Diana ; Quaque iter eſt Latiis ad ſummam faſcibusAlbam : Excelså de rupe proculjam confpicit Urbem . Lib. iii . v. 84. He now had conquer'd Anxur's ſteep Aſcent, And to Pontina's wat’ry Marſhes went ; A long Canal the muddy Fen divides, And with a clear unfully'd Current glides ; Diana's woody Realms he next invades, And croffing through the confecrated Shades, Aſcends high Alba , whence with new Delight He ſees the City riſing to his Sight. In my way to Naples I croſs’d the two moft con fiderable Rame of the Campania Felice, that were formerly call'd the Liris and Vulturnus, and are at preſent the Garigliano and Vulturno. The firſt of thefe Rivers has been deſervedly celebrated by the Latin Poets for the Gentleneſs of its Courſe, as the other for its Rapidity and Noiſe.

• A Canal, tbe Marks of it fillfeen .

Rura From Rome to Naples. 117 . Rura qua Liris quieta Mordet aquå taciturnus Amnis. Hor. Lib . i. Od. 31. V. 37. Liris qui fonte quieto Diſſimulat curſum, et nullo mutabilis imbre Perftringit tacitas gemmanti gurgite ripas. Sil. Ital . Lib. iv , Miſcentem flumina Lirim Sulfureum , tacitiſque vadis ad littora lapfum Accolit Arpinas - Id . Lib. viii Where the ſmooth Streams of Liris ſtray, And ſteal inſenſibly away. The Warlike Arpine borders on the Sides Of the flow Liris, that in Silence glides, And in its tainted Stream the workingSulphur hides,} Vulturnuſque rapax Cl. de Pr. & Olyb. Conf. Vulturnuſque celer Luc. Lib. ii. 28. Fluctuquefonorum Vulturnum Sil . Ital . Lib. viii. The rough Vulturnus, furious in its Courſe, With rapid Streams divides the fruitful Grounds, And from afar in hollow Murmurs founds. The Ruins of Anxur and old Capua mark out the pleaſant Situation in which thoſe Towns formerly ſtood . The firſt of them was planted on the Mountain, where we now ſee Terracina, and by reaſon of the Breezes that came off the Sea, and the Height of its Situation , was one of the Summer Retirements of the ancient Romans. O nemus, Ofontes ! folidumque madentis arenæ Littus, et æquoreis ſplendidus Anxur aquis ! Mart. Lib. X. Epigr. 54 . F 5 Ye 118 From Rome to Naples. Ye warbling Fountains, and ye ſhady Trees, Where Anxur feels the cool refreſhing Breeze Blown off the Sea, and all the dewy Strand Lies cover'd with a ſmooth unfinking Sand . Anxuris cquorei placidos, Frontine, receffus, Et propiùs Baias littoreamque domum. Etquod inhumanæ Cancrofervente Cicade, Non novere, nemus, flumineofque lacus, .Dum colui, &c. Id. ib. Epigr. 58, On the cool Shore, near Baia's gentle Seats, Ilay retir'd in Anxur's foft Retreats : Where Silver Lakes, with verdant Shadows crown'd , Diſperſe a grateful Chilnefs all around : The Graſhopper avoids th' untainted Air , Nor in the midſt of Summer ventures there, 1 ! 1 Impoſitum Saxis latè candentibus Anxur. Hor. Lib. i . Sat. 5. v , 26 . Monte procellofo Murranum miferatAnxur. Sil. Ital. Lib. iv. Scopulofi verticis Anxur. Sil , Ital. Lib . iv . Capuæ Luxum vide apud Sil. Ital. Lib. xi. Murranus came from Anxur's ſhow'ry Height, With ragged Rocks, and ſtony Quarries white ; Seated on Hills I don't know whether it be worth while to take notice that the Figures which are cut in the Rock near Terracina, increaſe ſtill in a Decimal Propor tion as they come nearer the Bottom. If one of our Voyage.Writers, who paſſed this waymorethan once , had obferved the Situation of thefe Figures, he would From Rome to Naples. 119 would not have troubled himſelf with the Diſler tation that he has made upon them . Silius Italicus has given us the Names of ſeveral Towns and Rivers, in the Campania Felice. Famverò quos divers opum , quosdives avorum , Et toto dabat ad bellum Campania tractu ; Ductorum adventum vicinis ſedibus Oſci Servabant ; Sinuefa tepens, fluctuque fonorum Vulturnum , quaſque evertere filentia ,Amyclæ , Fundique et regnata Laino Cajeta, domuſque Antiphate compreſjafreto, ſtagniſque paluſtre Linternun , et quondam fatorum conſcia Cuma; Illic Nucerie, et Gaurus navalibus apta , Prole Dicharchaâ multo cum milite Ġraia ; Illic Parthenope, et Pæno non pervia Nola , Alliphe, et Clanio contemtæſemper Aceřre. Sarraſtes etiam populos totajque videres Sarnimitis opes: illic quos fulphurepinguest Phlegræi legere finus, Miſenus et ardens Ore gigantæoſedes Ithacefia, Baje, NonProchyte, non ardentem fortita Typhoa Inarime, non antiquifaxofa Telonis Infula, nec parvis aberatCalatia muris, Surrentum , et pauper ſulci Cerealis Avella; In primis Capua, heurebus fervare ſecundis Inconſulta modum , et pravoperitura tumore. Lib. viii; Now rich Campania ſends forth all her Sons, And drains her populous Cities for the War : The Ofci, firſt, in Arms their Leaders wait : Warm Sinueffa comes ; Vulturnum too , Whoſe Walls are deafen'd by the founding Main ; And fair Amycle , to the Foe betray'd Thro' fatal Silence : Fundi too was there ; And Cajeta by ancient Lamus ruled : i I 20 From Rome to Naples. Antiphata, walh’d by the rolling Sea ; And moiſt Linternum on its marthy Soil : Cume, the Sibyl's ancient Seat, was there ; Nuceriæ too, and woody Gaurus, came: There was Parthenope, and Nola there , Nola , impervious to the Punic Arms ; Alliphe, and Acerræ ſtill o'erflow'd By the ſwift Clanius: there you might behold Sarrafte's manly Sons, and all the Wealth Of gentle Sarnus ; thoſe whom Phlegra fent Steaming with Sulphur: Thither Baie came, Built by Ulyſſes' Friend ; Miſenus too ; Nor Prochyte was abſent, nor the fam'd Inarime, where huge Typhæus lies Transfix'd with Thunder; nor the ſtony Iſle Of Telon , nor Calatia's humble Walls ; Surrentum , and Avella's barren Soil : But chiefly Capua, Capua, doom'd , alas ! By her own Pride and Infolence to fall. NAPLES, N A P L E S. M Y firſt Days at Naples were taken up with the Sight of Proceſſions, which are always very magnificent in the Holy Week . It would be tedious to give an Account of the ſeveral Repre ſentations of our Saviour's Death and Reſurrection , of the Figures of himſelf, the bleſſed Virgin, and the Apoſtles, which are carried up and down on this Occafion , with the cruel Penances that ſeveral inflict on themſelves, and the multitude of Ceremonies that attend theſe Solemnities. I faw , at the ſame time, a very ſplendid Proceſſion for the Acceffion of the Dukeof Anjou to the Crown of Spain, in which the Vice-Roy bore his Part at the left Hand of Cardinal Cantelmi. To grace the Pa rade, they expos'd, at the ſame time, the Blood of St. Januarius, which liquify'd at the Approach of the Saint's Head, tho ', as theyſay, it was hard con geald before. I had twice an Opportunity of ſeeing the Operation of this pretended Miracle, and muſt confeſs I think it ſo far from being a real Miracle, that I look upon it as one of the moſt bungling Tricks that I ever ſaw : Yet it is this that makes as great a Noiſe as any in the Roman Church, and that Mon ſieur Pafchal has hinted at among the reft , in his Marks of the true Religion. The modern Neapoli tans ſeem to have copy'd it out from one, which was 122 N À PL È S. was ſhewn in a Town of the Kingdom of Naples, as long ago as in Horace's Time. Dehinc Gnatia lymphis Iratis extructa dedit riſuſque jocoſque, Dum, flammâfinè, thura liqueſcere limine Sacro Perſuadere cupit: credat Judæus apella, Non ego . Lib . I. Sat. 5. v. 97. At Gratia next arriv'd , we laugh'd to ſee The fuperftitious Crowd's Simplicity, That in the ſacred Temple needs would try Without a Fire th ' unheated Gums to fry ; Believe who will the folemn Sham , not I. One may fee at leaſt that the heathen Prieſthood had the ſame kindof Secret among them , of which the Roman Catholics are now Maſters. I muſt confeſs, tho' I had liv'd above a Year in a Roman Catholic Country, I was ſurprisid to ſee many Ceremonies and Superftitions in Naples, that are not ſo much as thought of in Frances But as it is certain there has been a kind of ſecret Reformation made, tho' not publicly own'd , in the Roman Ca tholic Church, fince the ſpreading of the Proteſtant Religion , ſo wefind the ſeveral Nations arerecover'd out of their Ignorance, in proportion as they converſe more or leſs with thofe of the Reform's Churches . For this Reaſon the Frenchare much moreenlight end than the Spaniards or Italians, on Occaſion of theirfrequent Controverfies with the Huguenots ; and we find many of the Roman Catholic Gentlemen of our own Country, who will not ſtick to laugh at the Superſtitions they ſometimes meet with in other Nations I shall N A PLES 123 I ſhall not be particular in deſcribing theGrandeur of the City of Naples, the Beauty of its Pavement, the Regularity of its Buildings, the Magnificence of its Churches and Convents, the Multitude of its In habitants, or the Delightfulneſs of its Situation , which ſo many others have done with a great deal of Lei fure and Exactnefs. If a War ſhould - break out, the Town has reaſon to apprehend the exacting of a large Contribution, or a Bombardment. It has but ſeven Gallies, a Mole, and two little Caſtles, which are capable of hindering an Enemy's Approaches. Be fides that the Sea which lies near it is not ſubject to Storms, has no ſenſible Flux and Reflux , and is deep that a Veffel of Burden may come up to the very. Mole. The Houſes are flat-roof'd to walk upon ,fo that every Bomb that fell on them would take Effect. Pictures, Statues, and Pieces of Antiquity are not fo common at Naples, as one might expect in ſo great and ancient a City of Italy ; for the Vice- Roys take care to fend into Spain every thing that is valu able of this nature . Two of their fineſt modern Statues are thoſe of Apollo and Minerva, placid on each fide of Sannazarius's Tomb. On the Face of this Monument, which is all of Marble, and very neatly wrought, is repreſented, in Bas Relief, Nepa tune among the Satyrs, to ſhow that this poet was the Inventor of Piſcatory Eclogues. I remember Hugo Grotius deſcribes himſelf, in one of his Poems, as the firſt that brought the Muſes to the Sea - ſide ; but he muſt be underſtood only of the Poets of his own Country. I here ſaw the Temple that Sanna zarius mentions in his Invocation of the bleſſed Vire gin, at the beginning of his De partu Virginis , which was all rais'd at his own Expence, Niveis 124 N A P L E S. -Niveis tibi fi ſolennia templis Serta damus ; fi manſuras tibi ponimus aras Exciſo in ſcopuls, fluctus undeaurea canos Despiciens cello de culmine Mirgelline Attollit, nautiſque procul venientibus offert ; Tu vatem ignarumque viæ inſuétumque labori Diva mone Lib. i. Thou bright Celeſtial Goddeſs, if to Thee An acceptable Temple I erect , With faireft Flow'rs and freſheſt Garlands deck's , On tow'ring Rocks, whence Mergelline ſpies The ruffled Deep in Storms and Tempeſts riſe ; Guide thou the Pious Poet, nor refuſe Thine own propitious Aid to his unpractis'd Muſe. There are ſeveral very delightful Proſpects about Naples, eſpecially fromſome of theReligious Houſes ; for one ſeldom finds in Italy a Spot of Ground more agreeable than ordinary, that is not cover'd with a Convent. The Cupolas of this City , tho' there are many of them, don't appear to the beſt Advan tage when one ſurveys them at a diſtance, as being generally too high and narrow . The Marquis of Me dina Sidonia , in hisVice- Royalty , made the Shell of a Houſe, which he had not time to finiſh ,that com mands a View of the whole Bay , and would have been a very noble Building, had he brought it to Perfec tion. It ſtands fo on the side of a Mountain, that it would have had a Garden to every Story, by the help of a Bridge, which was to have beenlaid over each Garden. The Bay of Naples is the moſt delightful 'one that I ever ſaw. It lies in almoſt a round Figure of about thirty Miles in the Diameter. Three Parts of it are ſhelter'd with a noble Circuit of Woods 1 N A P L E S. 125 Woods and Mountains. The high Promontory of Surrentum divides it from the Bay of Salernum . Be tween the utmoſt Point of this promontory, and the Iſle of Capthe Sea enters by a Strait of about three Miles wide. This Inand ſtands as a vaſt Mole, which ſeems tohave been planted there on purpoſe to break the Violence of the Waves that run into the Bay. It lies longways, almoſt in a parallel Line to Naples. The exceſſiveHeight of its Rocks ſecures a great Part of the Bay from Winds and Waves, which enter again between the other End of this land and the Promontory of Mifeno. The Bay of Na ples is call’d the Crater by the old Geographers, pro bably from this its Reſemblance to a round Bowl half fiild with Liquor. Perhaps Virgil, who com pos'd here a great part of his Æneids, took from hence the Plan of that beautiful Harbour, which he has made in his firſt Book ; for the Libyan Port is but the Neapolitan Bay in little. Ein ſeceſſu longo locus : Inſula portum Efficit objeétu laterum , quibus omnis ab alto Frangitur, inque finusfcindit fefe unda reductos : Hinc atque hinc vaftæ rupes geminique minantur In coelum fcopuli, quorumſubvertice latè Æquora tuta filent ; tum Silvis Scena corufcis Defuper, horrentique atrum nemus imminet umbra. Æn. 1. v. 163 . Within a long Receſs there lies a Bay ; An Iſland ſhades it from the rolling Sea , And forms a Port ſecure for Ships to ride : Broke by the jutting Land on either Side, In double Streams the briny Waters glide Between two Rowsof Rocks: a Silvan Scene Appears above, and Groves for ever Green . Dryden. Naples } 126 N A PL E S. Naples ftands in the Bofom of this Bay, and has the pleaſanteft Situation in the World, cho', by reaſon of its Weſtern Mountains, it wants an Advantage Vitruvius would have to the Front of his Palace, of feeing the ſetting Sun. One would wonder howthe Spaniards, who have but very few Forces in the Kingdom of Naples, ſhould be able to keep a People from Revolting, that has been famous for its Mutinies and Seditions in former Ages. But they have ſo well contriv'd it, that, tho' the Subjects are miſerably harafs’d and oppreſs'd, the greateſt of their Oppreffors are thoſe of their own Body. I ſhall not mention any thing of theClergy, who are fufficiently reproached in moſt Itineraries for the univerſal Poverty that one meets with in this noble and plentiful Kingdom . A great Part of the People is in a State of Vaffalagetothe Barons, who are the harſheſt Tyrants in the World to thoſe that are under them. The Vaffals indeed are allow'd , and invited to bring in their Complaints and Ap peals to the Vice-Roy, who, to foment Diviſions, and gain the Hearts of the Populace, does not ſtick at impriſoning and chaſtiſing their Maſters very fe verely on Occaſion . The Subjects of the Crown are notwithſtanding much more rich and happy than the Vaffals of the Barons. Infomuch that when the King has been upon the Point of ſelling a Town to one of his Barons, the Inhabitants have rais'd the Sum upon themſelves, and preſented it to the King, that they might keep out of fo infupportable a Slavery. Another way the Spaniards have taken to grind the Neapolitans, and yet to take off the Odium from themſelves, has been by erecting ſeveral Courts of Juſtice, with a very ſmall Pen fion for ſuch as fit at the Head of them, ſo that they are tempted to take Bribes, keep Cauſes un decided , N A P L E S. 127 10 decided, encourage Law -fuits, and do all they can to fleece the People, that they may have where withal to ſupport their own Dignity. It is incre dible how great a Multitude of Retainers to the Law there are at Naples. It is commonly ſaid , that when Innocent the Eleventh had deſir'd the . Marquis of Carpio to furniſh him with ' thirty thouſand Head of Swine, the Marquis anſwer'd him , that for his Swine he could not ſpare them , but if his Holineſs had occaſion for thirty thou fand Lawyers, he had them at his Service. Theſe Gentlemen find a continual Employ for the fiery Temper of the Neapolitans, and hinder them from uniting in ſuch common Friendſhips and Alliances as might endanger the Safety of the Government. There are very few Perſons of Confideration who have not a ' Caufe depending ; for when a Neapolitan Cavalier has nothing elſe to do, he gravely fhuts himſelf up in his Cloſet, and falls a tumbling over his Papers, to fee if he can ſtart a Law -Suit, and plague any of his Neighbours. So much is the Genius of this People chang'd ſince Starius's Time. Nulla foro rabies, autftrictaJurgia Legis ; Morum jura viris, folum & fine fafcibus Æquum . Sylv. v . Lib. iii. v. 87 . By Love of Right and Native Juſtice led , In the ſtraight Paths of Equity they tread ; Nor know the Bar, nor fear the Judge's Frown, Unpractis’d in the Wranglings of the Gown. There is another Circumſtance, which makes the Neapolitans, in a very particular manner, the Op preſſors of each other. The Gabels of Naples are 128 N A PLES. are very high on Oil, Wine, Tobacco , and indeed on almoſt every thing that can be eaten, drank or worn. ' There would have been one on Fruit, had not Maffianello's Rebellion aboliſh'd it, asit has pro bably put a ſtop to many others. What makes theſe Impoſts more intolerable to the poorer fort, they are laid on all Butchers Meat, while at the ſame time the Fowl and Gibbier are Tax free. Befides, all Meat being taxed equally by the Pound, it happens that the Duty lies heavieſt on the coarfer Sorts, which are moſt likely to fall to the ſhare ofthe common People,fo that Beef perhaps pays a Third , and Veal a Tenth of its Price to the Government, a Pound of either Sort having the ſame Tax fix'd on it . There Gabels are moſt of them at preſent in the Hands of private Men ; for as the King of Spain has had occaſion for Mo ney, he has borrow'd it of the rich Neapolitans, on condition that they fhould receive the Intereſt out of ſuch or ſuch Gabels ' till he could repay them the Principal. This he has repeated fo often that at preſent there is ſcarce a ſingle Gabel unmortgag'd ; ſo that there is no Place in Europe which pays greater Taxes, and at the ſame time no Prince who draws leſs Ad. vantage from them . In other countries the People have the Satisfaction of ſeeing the Money they give ſpent in the Neceflities, Defence, or Ornament of their State, or at leaſt, in the Vanity or Pleaſures of their Prince : but here moſt of it goes to the en riching of their Fellow -Subjects. If there was not ſo great a Plenty of every thing in Naples the Peo ple could not bear it. The Spaniard however reaps this Advantage from the preſent Poſture of Affairs, that the Murmurs of the People are turn'd upon their own Countrymen, and what is more confider able, N A P L E S. 129 on, able, that almoſt all the Perſons, of the greateſt Wealth and Power in Naples, are engag'd by their own Intereſts to pay theſe Impofitions chearfully, and to ſupport the Government which has laid them For this Reaſon , tho' the poorer fort are for the Emperor, few of the Perſons of Conſequence can endure to think of a Change in their preſent Eſtabliſhment ; tho' there is no queſtion but the King of Spain will reform moſt of theſe Abuſes, by breaking or retrenching the Power of the Barons, by cancelling ſeveral unneceſſary Employs, or by ranſoming or taking the Gabels into his ownHands. I have been told too there is a Law of Charles the Fifth ſomething like our Statute of Mortmajn , which has laid dormant ever ſince his Time, and will probably have new Life put into it under the Reign of an active Prince. The Inhabitants of Naples have been always very notorious for leading a Life of Lazineſs and Pleaſure, which I take to ariſe partly out of the wonderful Plenty of their Country, that does not make Labour fo neceſſary to them, and partly out of the Temper of their Climate, that re laxes the Fibres of their Bodies, and diſpoſes the Peo ple to ſuch an idle indolent Humour. Whatever it proceeds from , we find they were formerly as famous for it as they are at preſent. This wasperhaps the Reaſon that the Ancients tell us one of the Sirens was bury'd in this City, which thence receiv'd the Name of Parthenope. Improba Siren Defidia Hor. Sat. iii . Lib. iii V. 14. Sloth , the deluding Siren of the Mind. Et . 130 N A P L E S. Et in Otia natam Parthenopen -- Ovid . Met. Lib. XV. V. II . Otiofa Neapolis. Hor. Epod. 5. V. 43. Parthenope, for idle Hours defign’d, To Luxury and Eaſe unbinds the Mind, Parthenope non dives opum , non ſpreta vigoris: Nam molles Urbi ritus, atque hoſpita Muſis Otia, et exemptum curis gravioribus ævum . Sirenam dedit una fuum et memorabile nomen Parthenope muris Acheložas, æquore cujus Regnavere diu cantus, cum dulce per undas Exitium miſeris caneret non profpera Nautis. Sil. Ital. Lib. xii, Here wanton Naples crowns the happy Shore, Nor vainly rich, nor deſpicably poor ; The Town in ſoft Solemnities delights, And gentle Poets tº her Arms invites; The People, free from Cares, ſerene and gay , Pafs all their mild untroubled Hours away. Parthenope the riſing City nam'd A Siren , for her Songs and Beauty fam'd, That oft had drown'd among the neighb'ring Seas The liſt’ning Wretch, and made Deſtruction pleaſe. Has ego te fedes ( nam nec mihi barbara Thrace Nec Libye natale ſolum ) transferre laboro : Quas et mollishyems et frigida temperat eftas, Quas imbelle fretum torpentibus alluit undis : Pax fecura locis, et defidis Otia vita, Et nunquam turbata quies, fomnique pera &ti : Nulla foro rabies, & c. Stat. Sylv. v. Lib. iii.v. 81 . Theſe N A P L E S. 131 Theſe are the gentle Seats that I propoſe ; For not cold Scythia's undiflolving Snows, Nor the parch'd Libyan Sands thy Husband bore, But mild Parthenope's delightful Shore ; Where huſh'd in Calms the bord’ring Ocean laves Her filent Coaſt, and rolls in languid Waves ; Refreſhing Winds the Summer's Heats aſſuage ; And kindly Warmth difarms the Winter's Rage ; Remov'd from Noiſe and the tumultuous War, Soft Sleep and downy Eaſe inhabit there, And Dreams unbroken with intruding Care. } THE THE ANTIQUITIES AND Natural Curioſities That fie near the City of NAPLE S. Tabout eight Miles diſtance from Naples lies a very noble Scene of An tiquities. What they call Virgil's Tomb is the firſt that one meets with on the Way thither. It is certain this Poet was bury'd at Naples ; but I think it is almoſt as certain , that his Tomb ſtood on the other ſide of the Town, which looks towards Veſuvio . By thisTomb is the Entry into the Grotto of Pauſilypo. The common People of Naples be lieve it to have been wrought by Magic, and that Virgil was the Magician ; who is in greater Repute among the Neapolitans for having made the Grotto, than the Æneid. If 10 Antiquities, &c. 133 If a Man would form to himſelf a juſt Idea of this Place , he muſt fancy a vaft Rock undermind from one end to the other , and a Highway running thro' it, near as long and as broad as the Mall in St. James's Park . This fubterraneous Paſlage is much mended_ſince Seneca gave ſo bad a Cha racter of it . TheEntry at both Ends is higher than the middle Parts of it, and finks by degrees to fling in more Light upon the reſt. Towards the middle are two large Funnels, bor'd thro' the Roof of the Grotto, to let in Light and freſh Air. There are no where about the Mountain any vaſt Heaps of Stones, tho' it is certain the great Quanti ties of-'em that are dug out of the Rock could not eaſily conceal themſelves, had they not probably been confúm'd in the Moles and Buildings of Naples. This confirm'd me in a Conjecture, which I made at the firſt ſight of this ſubterraneous Paffage, that it was not at firſt defign’d ſo much for a High -way as for a Quarry of Stone, but that the Inhabitants, finding a double Advantage by it , hew'd it into the Formwe now fee. Perhaps the ſame Deſign gave the Original to the Sibyl's Grotto, conſidering the prodigious multitude of Palaces that ſtood in its Neighbourhood. I remember when I was at Chateaudun in France, I met with a very curious Perſon, a Member of one of the German Univerſities. He had ſtay'd a Day or two in the Town longer than ordinary, to take the Meaſures of ſeveral empty Spaces that had been cut in the Sides of a neighbouring Mountain. Some of 'em were ſupported with Pillars form'd out of the Rock ; fome were made in the Faſhion of Galleries, and ſome not unlike Amphitheatres. The Gentle man had made to himſelf ſeveral ingenious Hypo G theles 134 Antiquities and Curioſities theſes concerning the uſe of theſe ſubterraneous Apartments, and from thence collected the vaſt Magnificence and Luxury of the ancient Chatequr dunais. But upon communicating his Thoughts on this Subject to one of the most learned of the Place , he was not a little ſurpris'd to hear, that theſe itu pendous Worksof Artwere only ſo many Quarries of Free- Stone, that had been wrought into different Figures, according as the Veins of it directed the Workmen, About five Miles from the Grotto of Pauſilypo, liez the Remains of Puteoli and Baie , in a foſt Airand a delicious Situation . The Country about ' em , by reaſon of its vaft Ca verns and ſubterraneous Fires ,, has been miſerably torn in pieces by Earthquakes, ſo that the whole Face of it is quite chang’d from what it was formerly. , The Sea has overwhelm'd a multitude of Palaces, which may be ſeen at the bottom of the Water in a calm Day. The Lucrine Lake is but a Puddle in compariſon of what it once was, its Springs having been funk in an Earthquake, or ſtopp'd up,by Mountains that have fallin upon 'em. The Lake of Avernus, fore merly ſo famous for its Streams of Poiſon , is now plentifully ſtock'd with Fiſh and Fowl. Mount Gaurus, from one of the fruitfulleſt Parts in Italy, is become one of the moſt barren . Several Fields, . which were laid out in beautiful Groves and Gar dens, are now naked Plains, ſmoking with Sul. phur, or incumber'd with Hills that have been thrown up by Eruptions of Fire. The Works of Art lie in no leſs Diſorder than thoſe of Nature ; for that which was once the moſt beautiful Spot of Italy cover'd with Temples and Palaces, adorn'd by the greateſt of the Roman Commonwealth, em. bellih'd near the City of Naples. 135 belliſh'd by many of the Roman Emperors, and ce lebrated by the beſtof their Poets, has now nothing to thew bút the Ruins ofits ancient Splendor, and a great Magnificence in Confuſion . TheMole of Puteoli has been miſtaken by ſeveral Authors for Caligula's Bridge. They have all been led into this Error from the Make of it, becauſe it ſtands on Arches. But to paſs over themany Ar guments that may be brought againſt this Opinion, I ſhall here take away the Foundation of it , by fecs ting down an Inſcription mention'd by Julius Ca pitolinus in the Life of Antoninus Pius; who was the Repairer of this Mole. Imp. Cæfari, Divi Hadri ani filio, Divi Trajani, Parthici, Nepoti, Divi Nerve pronepoti, T: A. Hadriano Antonino Aug. Pio, &c. quod ſuper cætera beneficia ad hujus etiam tutelam portús, Pilarum viginti molem cum fumpiu fornicum reliquo ex Ærario ſuo largitus eft. i.e. To : the Emperor Adrian Antoninus Pius, Son of the Emperor Adrian, Grandſon of the Emperor Trajan firnamed Parthicus, Great-Grandſon of the Empe ror Nerva, &c, who, beſides other Benefactions, built, at his own Expence, a Mole of twenty Piles, for the Security of this Haven. It would have been very difficult to have made ſuch a Mole as this of Puteoli, in a Place where they had not ſo natural a Commodity, as the Earth of Puz zuola, which immediately hardens in the Water, and after a little lying in it looks rather like Stone than Mortar. It was this that gave the ancient Roo mans an Opportunity of making ſo many Incroach. ments on the Sea, and of laying the Foundations of their Villas and Palaces within the very Borders of it ,

• Horace has elegantly deſcribed it more than once .

as

• Lib . 2. Od. 18.Lib . 3. Od. 1. Lib. 3. Od. 24. Epift. Lib. 1 .

G2 About 136 Antiquities and Curioſities : About four Years ago they dug up agreat Piece of Marble near Puzzuola, with ſeveral Figures and Letters engraven round it, which have given occa fion to ſome Diſputes among the Antiquaries *. But they all agree that it is the Pedeſtal of a Statue erected to Tiberius by the fourteen Cities of Afia, which were flung down by an Earthquake ; the ſame that, according to the Opinion of manylearned Men, happen'd at our Saviour's Crucifixion. They have found in the Letters, which are ſtill legible, the Names of the ſeveral Cities, and diſcover in each Figure ſomething peculiar to the City, of which it repreſents the Genius. There are two Medals of Tiberius ſtamp'd on the ſame Occaſion , with this Inſcription to one of them ,Civitatibus Afia Reftitutis. The Emperoris repreſented in both ſitting , with a Patera in one Hand, and a Spear in the other.

• Vid. Gronovium , Fabretti, Bulifon . & c .

SIAE SUBVES RES near the City of Naples. 137 PASTAS LISADA It is probable this might have been the Poſture of the Statue, which in all likelihood does not lie far from the place where they took up the Pedeſtal; for they ſay there were other great Pieces of Marble near it, and ſeveral of ' em infcrib'd , but that no body would be at the Charges of bringing them to light. The Pedeſtal itſelf lay neglected in an open Field when I ſaw it . I fhall not be particular on the Ruins of the Amphitheatre, the ancient Reſervoirs of Wa ter, the Sibyl's Grotto, the Centum Camera , the Sepulchre of Agrippina, Nero's Mother, with ſeveral other Antiquities of lefs Note, that lie in the Neigh bourhood of this Bay, and have been often deſcribd by many others. I muſt confeſs, after having ſur vey'd the Antiquities about Naples and Rome, I can not but think that our Admiration of 'ein does not ſo much ariſe out of their Greatneſs as Uncom . monneſs. There are indeed many extraordinary Ruins ; but I believe a Traveller would not be ſo much aſto G nith'd 3 138 Antiquities,and Curioſities niſh'd at ' em , did he find any Works of the ſame kind in his own Country . Amphitheatres, Tri umphal Arches, Baths, Grottoes, Catacombs, Ro tunda’s, Highways pav'd for ſo great a Length, Bridges of ſuch an amazing Height, Subterraneous Buildings for the Reception of Rain and Snow- Wa ter , aremoſt of ' em at preſent out of Faſhion , and only to be met with among the Antiquities of Italy. We are therefore immediately ſurpris'd when we fee any conſiderable Sunis laid out in any thing of this nature, tho' at the ſame time there is many aGo. thic Cathedral in England, that has coft morePains and Money than ſeveral of theſe celebrated Works, Among the Ruins of the old Heathen Temples they ſhew'd mewhat they call the Chamber of Venus, which ſtands a little behind her Temple. It is whol ly dark, and has ſeveral Figures on the Cieling wrought in Stucco, that ſeem to repreſent Luft and Strength by the 'Emblems of naked Jupiters and Gladiators, Tritons, and Centaurs, & c. fo that one would gueſs it has formerly been the Scene ofmany Jewd Myſteries. On the other Side of Naplesare the Catacombs. There muſt have been full of Stench and Lothſomneſs, if the dead Bodies that lay in 'em were left to rot in open Niches, as an Emi. nent Author of our own Country imagines. But upon examining 'em I find they were each of 'em ſtopp’d up ; without doubt, as ſoon as the Corpswas Jaid in it. For at the Mouth of the Nich one al ways finds the Rock eut into little Channels, to faften the Board or Marble that was to cloſe it up ; and I think I did not ſee one which had not ſtill fome Mortar ſticking in it. In ſome I found Pieces of Tiles that exactly tallied with the Channel, and in others a little Wail of Bricks, that ſometimes Sopp'd up above a quarter of the Nich, the reſt having ? near the City of Naples. 139 having been broken down. St. Proculus's Sepulcher ſeems to havea kind of Moſaic Work on its Cover. ing ; for I obferv'd at one End of it ſeveral little Pieces of Marble ranged together after that manner. ' Tis probable they were adorn'd, more or leſs, according to the Quality of the Dead. One would indeed wonder to find ſuch a Multitude of Niches unſtopp'd, and I can't imagine any Body ſhould take the Pains to do it, who was not in quelt of ſome ſuppos'd Treaſure Baie was the Winter Retreat of the old Romans, that being the proper Seafon to enjoy the Baiani Soles, and the Mollis Lucrinus ; as on the contrary, Tiber, Tuſculum , Preneſte, Alba , Cajeta, Mons Circeius, Anxur, and the like airy Mountains and Promontaries, were their Retirements during the Heats of Summer. Dum nos blanda tenent jucundi Stagna Lucrini, Et quæ pumiceis fontibus antra calent, Tucolis Argivi' regnum , Fauſtine, colóni * Quo te'bis decimus ducit ab urbe lapis. Horrida fed fervent Nemedi peétora monſtri : Nec fatis eft Balas igne calere fuo. Ergo facri fontes, &littora Sacra valete, Nympharum pariter, Nertidumque domus. Herculeos collesgelidâ vos vincite bruma, Nunc Tiburtinis cedite frigoribus. Matt. Lib. iv. Epigr. 57. While near the Lucrine Lake conſum'd to Death I draw the fultry. Air, and gaſp for Breath , Where Streams of Sulphur raile'a ſtilling Heat, And thro' the Pores of the warm Pumice ſweat ; Vid.Hor. Lib. ii. Od. 6. G4 You . 140 'Antiquities and Curioſities You taſte the cooling Breeze, where nearer home The twentieth Pillar marks the Mile from Rome : And now the Sun to the bright Lion turns, And Baia with redoubled Fury burns ; Then briny Seas and taſteful Springs farewel , Where Fountain Nymphs confus’d with Nereids dwell ; In Winter You may all the World deſpiſe, But now 'tis Tivoli that bears the Prize. The Natural Curioſities about Naples are as nu merous and extraordinary as the Artificial. I fhall ſet them down as I have done the other, without any regard to their Situation . The Grotto del Cani is famous for thepoiſonous Steams which float with in a Foot of its Surface. The Sides of the Grotto are mark'd with green , as high as the Malignity of the Vapour reaches. The common Experiments are as follow . A Dog, that has his Nofe held in the Vapour, loſes all Signs of Life in a very little time ; but if carry'd into the open Air, or thrown into a Neighbouring Lake, he immediatelyrecovers, if he is not quite gone. A Torch, Snuff and all, goes out in a Moment, when dipp'd into the Vapour. A Piſtol cannot take fire in it. I ſplit a Reed , and laid in the Channel of it a Train of Gun-powder, fo that one End of the Reed was above the Vapour, and the other at the Bottom of it , and I found , tho' the Steam was ſtrong enough to hinder a Piſtol from taking fire in it , and to quench a lighted Torch, that it could not intercept the Train of Fire when it had once begun flaſhing, nor hinder it from running to the very Ènd. This Experiment I repeated twice or thrice, to ſee if I could quite diffipate the Vapour, which I did in ſo great a Meaſure, that one might eaſily let off a Piſtol in it . I obſerv'd how long a Dog near the City of Naples. 141 Dog was in expiring the firft time, and after his Re covery, and found no ſenſible difference. A Viper bore it nine Minutes the firſt time we put him in , and ten the ſecond. When we brought it outafter the firſt Trial, it took ſuch a vaſt quantity of Air into its Lungs, that it fwell'd almoſt twiceas big as before ; and it was perhaps on this Stock of Air that it liv'd a Minute longer the ſecond time. "Doctor Conner made a Diſcourſe in one of the Academies. at Rome upon the Subject of this Grotto , which he has ſince printed in England. He attributes the Death of Animals, and the Extinction of Lights, to a great Rarefaction ofthe Air, caus'd by the Heat and Eruption of the Steams. But how is it poffible for theſe Steams, tho' in never ſo great quantity, to re fiſt the preffure of the whole Atmoſphere ? And as for the Heat, it is but very inconfiderable. However, to ſatisfy myſelf, I plac'd a thin Vial, well ſtopp'd up with Wax, within the Smoke of the Vapour, which would certainly have burſt in an Air rarify'd enough to kill a Dog, orquench a Torch, but no thing follow'd upon it . However, to take away all further Doubt, Iborrow'd a Weather -Glafs, and ſo fix'd it in the Grotto, that the Stagnum was wholly cover'd with the Vapour ; but I could not perceive the Quickſilver funk after half an Hour's ftanding in it . This Vapour is generally ſupposid to be Sulphureous, tho' I can ſee no reaſonfor ſuch a Suppoſition . He that dips his Hand in it finds no Smell that it leaves upon it , and tho' I put a whole Bundle of lighted Brimſtone Matches to the Smoke, they all went out in an Inſtant, as if immers'd in Water. Whatever is the Compoſition of the Vapour, let it have but one Quality of being very glewy or viſcous, and I believe it will mechanically ſolve all the Phenomena of the Grotto. Its Unctuoufneſs will make it heavy, and G5 unfit 142 Antiquities and Curioſities unfit for mounting higher than it does, unleſs the Heat of the Earth, which is juſt ſtrong enough to agitate, and bear it up at a little Diſtance from the Surface, were much greater than it is to rarify and fcatter it . It will be too groſs and thick to keep the Lungs in play for any time, ſo that Animals will die in it ſooner or later , as their Blocd circulates flower or faſter. Fire will live in it no longer than in Water, becauſe it wraps itſelf in the ſame manner about the Flame, and by its Continuity hinders any quantity of Air and Nitre from coming to its Suc cour. The Parts of it however are not ſo compact as thoſe of Liquors, nor therefore tenacious enough to intercept the Fire that has once caught a Train of Gun-powder; for which Reaſon they may be quite broken anddiſpers’d by the Repetition of this Expe riment. There is an unetuous clammy Vapour that ariſes from the Stum of Grapes, when they lie malh'd together in the Vat, which puts out a Light when dipp'd into it , and perhaps would take away the Breath of weaker Animals, were it put to the Trial. It would be endleſs to reckon up the different Baths, to be met within a Country that ſo much abounds in Sulphur. There is ſcarce a Diſeaſe which has not one adapted to it . A Stranger is generally led into that they call Cicero's Bath, and ſeveralVoyage Writers pretend there is a cold Vapourariſing from the Bottom of it, which refreſhes thoſe who ſtoop into it . ' Tis true the Heat is much more ſupport able to one that ſtoops, than to one that ſtands up right , becauſe the Steams of Sulphur gather in the Hollow of the Arch about a Man's Head, and are therefore much thicker and warmer in that Part than at the Bottom . The three Lakes of Agnano, Aver nus, and the Lucrin, have now nothing in them par ticular. near the City of Naples. 143 ticular The Monte Novo was thrown out by an Eruption of Fire that happen'd in the place where the Mountain now ſtands. The Sulfatara is very furpriſing to one whohas not ſeen Mount Veſuvio. But there is nothing about Naples, nor indeed in any Part of Italy,which deferves our Admiration fo much as this Mountain. I muſt confeſs the Idea I had of it did not anſwer the real Image of the Place when I came to ſee it ; I ſhall therefore give the Deſcription of it as it then lay . This Mountain ſtands at about fix Engliſh Miles diſtance from Naples, tho', by reaſon of its Height, it ſeems much nearer to thoſe that ſurvey it from the Town. In our Way to it we paſs’d by what was one of thoſe Rivers ofburning Matter, that ran from it in a late Eruption. This looks at a diſtance like new -plowa Land ; but as you come near it, you ſee nothing but a long Heap of heavy disjointed Clod's lying one upon another. There are innumerable Ca vities and Interſtices among the ſeveral Pieces, ſo that the Surface is all broken and irregular. Sometimes à great Fragment ſtands like a Rock above the relt ; fometimes the whole Heap lies in a kind of Channel, ånd in other Places has nothing like Banks to confine it, but riſes four or five Foot high in the open Air, without ſpreading abroad on either Side. This, i think, is a plain -Demonſtration that theſe Rivers were not, as they are uſually repreſented, ſo many Streams of running Matter; for how could a Liquid , that lay hardening by degrees, fettle in ſuch a fur row'd uncompact Surface ? Were the River a Confu fion of never ſo many different Bodies, if they had been all actually diffolv'd, they would at leaſt have form’d one continu'd Cruſt, as we ſee the Scoriumi of Metals always gathers into a ſolid Piece, let it be compounded of a thoufand Heterogencous Parts. I am aps 144 Antiquities and Curiofities apt to thinktherefore that theſe huge unwieldy Lumps thạť now lie one upon another, as if thrown toge ther by Accident, remain’d in the melted Matter rigid and unliquify'd , floating in it like Cakes of Ice in a River, and that, as the Fire and Ferment gra dually abated , they adjuſted themſelves together as well as their irregularFigures would permit, and by this means fell into ſuch an interrupted diſorderly Heap as we now find it. What was the melted Matter lies at the Bottom out of Sight. After hav . ing quitted the side of this long Heap, which was once a Stream of Fire, we cameto the Roots of the Mountain, and had a very troubleſom March to gain the Top of it. It is cover'd on all Sides with a kind of burnt Earth , very dry, and crumbled into Powder, as if it had been artificially fifted . It is very hot under the Feet, and mix'd with ſeveral burnt Stones and Cakes of Cinders, which have been thrown out at different times. A Man finks almoſt a Foot in the Earth , and generally loſes half a Step by fliding backwards. When we had climb'd this Mountain, we diſcover'd the Top of it to be a wide naked Plain , ſmoking with Sulphur in ſeveral Places, and probably undermin’d with Fire ; for weconcluded it to be hollow by the Sound it made under our Feet. In the midſt of this Plain ftands a high Hill in the ſhape of a Sugar- loaf, ſo very ſteep, that there would be no mounting or deſcending it, were it not made up of ſuch a looſe crumbled Earthas I have before deſcribed , The Air of this Place muſt be very much impregnated with Salt - petre, as appears by the Specks of it on the Sides of the Mountain , where onecan ſcarce find a Stone that has not the Top white with it . After we had , with much ado, conquer'd this Hill, we ſaw in the midſt of it the preſent Mouth of Veſuvio, that goes fhelving down on all Sides, ' till above a hundred Yards near the City of Naples, 145 Yards deep, as near as we could gueſs, and has about three or four hundred in the Diameter, for it ſeems a perfect Round. This vaft Hollow is generally fild with Smoke ; but, by the Advantage of a Windthat blew for us, we had a very clear and diſtinct fight of it . The Sides appear all over ſtain'd with Mixtures of White, Green, Red, and Yellow, and have ſeveral Rocks ſtanding out of them that look like pure Brim ftone. The Bottom was intirely cover'd, and tho ' we look'd very narrowly we could ſee nothing like a Hole in it ; the Smoke breaking through ſeveral im perceptible Cracks in many places. The very Mid dle was firm Ground whenwe ſaw it, as we conclude ed from the Stones we flung upon it, and I queſtion not but one might then have croſs'd the Bottom , and have gone upon theother side of it with verylittle Danger, unlefs from fomeaccidentalBreath of Wind. In the late Eruptions this great Hollow was like a vaft Cauldron fill'd with glowing and melted Matter, which, as it boild over in any Part, ran down the Sides of the Mountain , and made five ſuch Rivers as that beforemention'd . In proportion as the Heat ſlacken'd , this burning Matter muſt have ſubfided within the Bowels of the Mountain , and as it ſunk very leiſurely had time to Cake together, and form the Bottom which covers the Mouth of that dreadful Vault that lies underneath it. The next Eruption or Earthquake will probably, break in pieces this falſe Bottom , and quite change the preſent Face of Things. This whole Mountain, ſhap'd like a Sugar-loaf, has been made at ſeveral times, by the prodigious Quantities of Earth and Cinders, which have been fung up out of the Mouth that lies in the midſt of them ; ſo that it increaſes in the Bulk at every Eruption, the Aſhes ſtill falling down the Sides of ië, like the Sand in an Hour-Glaſs. A Gentleman of Naples 146 Antiquities and Curioſities Naples told me, that in his Memory it had gained twenty Foot in thickneſs, and I queſtion not but in length of time it will cover the whole Plain , and make one Mountain with that on which it now ſtands. In thofe Parts of the Sea, that are not far from the Roots of this Mountain, they find ſometimes a very fragrant Oil, which is fold dear, and makes a rich Perfume. The Surface of the Sea is , for a little Space, cover'd with its Bubbles, during the time that it riſes, which they skim off into their Boats, and afterwards fet a ſeparating in Pots and Jars. They ſay its Sources never run but in calm warm weather. The Agitations of the Water perhaps hinder them from diſcovering it at other times. Among the natural Curioſities of Naples, Icart not forbear mentioning their manner of furniſhing the Town with Snow , which they here uſe inſtead of Ice, becauſe, as they ſay, it cools or congeals any Liquor ſooner. There is a great Quantity of it conſum'd yearly ; for they drink very few Liquors, not ſo much as Water, that have not lain in Freſco; and every Body , from the higheſt to the loweſt, makes uſe of it , inſomuch that a Scarcity of Snow would raiſe a Mutiny at Naples, as much as a Dearth of Corn or Proviſions in another Country. To prevent this the King has ſold the Monopoly of it to certain Perſons , who are oblig'd to furniſh the City with it all the Year at ſo much the Pound. They have a high Mountain at about eighteen Miles from the Town, which has ſeveral Pits dug into it. Here they employ many poor People at ſuch a Seaſon of the Year to roll'in vaſt Balls of Snow , which they ram together, and cover from the Sunthine. Out of theſe Reſervoirs of Snow they cut near the City of Naples. 147 cut ſeveral Lumps, as they have occafion for them, and ſend them on Afles to the Sea -fide, where they are carry'd off in Boats, and diſtributed to feveral Shops at a ſettled Price, that from time to time fupply the whole City of Naples. While the Ban ditti continu'd their Diforders in this Kingdom , they often put the Snow -Merchants under Contribution , and threaten'd them , if they appear'd tardy in their Payments, to deſtroy their Magazines, which they fay might eaſily have been effected by the Infuſion of ſome Barrels of Oil. It would have been tedious to have put down the many Deſcriptions that the Latin Poets have made of ſeveral of the Places mention'd in this Chapter : I ſhall therefore conclude it with the general Map which Silius Italicus has given us of this great Bay of Naples. Moft of the Places he mentions lie withinthe fame Proſpect ; and if I havepaſs'd over any of them, it is becauſe I ſhall take them in my way by Sea, from Naples to Rome. Stagna inter celebrem nunc mitia monftrat Avernum ; Tumtriſti nemore atque umbris nigrantibus horrens, Et formidatus volucri, lethale vomebat Sufuſo virus coelo, Stygiaque per urbes Religionefacer, fávum retinebat honorem . Hinc vicina palus, fama eft Acherontis ad undas Pandere iter , cæcas ftagnante voragine fauces Laxat, et borrendos aperit telluris hiatus, Interdumque novo perturbat lumine manes. Juxta caligante fitu, longumque per evum Infernis preſſas nebulis, pallente fub umbrâ Cimmerias jacuiſſe domos, noctemque profundam Tartareæ narränt urbis : tum ſulfure et igni Semper anhelantes, cočtoque bitumine campos Oftentant : tellus atro exundante vapore Suf 148 Antiquities and Curiofties , Suſpirans, uftiſque diu calefacta medullis et Parturit, et tremulis metuendum exfibilat antris, Interdumque cavas luctatus rumpere fedes, Aut exire foras, fonitu lugubre minaci Mulciber immugit, lacerataque vifcera terre Mandit, et exeſos labefa &tat murmure montes. Tradunt Herculeå proſtratos mole Gigantes Tellurem injectam quatere, et ſpiramine anhela Torreri latè campos, quotieſque minantur Rumpere compagem impofitam , expallefcere cælum . Apparet procul Inarime, quæ turbine nigro Fumantem premit läpetum , fammaſque rebelli Ore eje &tantem , etliquandoevaderedetur BellaJovi rurſus ſuperiſque iterare volentem . Monſtrantur Veſeva juga , atque in vertice fumma Depaftiflammis fcopuli, fractuſque ruina Mons circům , atque Ætne fatis certantia Saxa . Nec non Mifenumfervantem Ideaſepulcro Nomina, et Herculeos videt ipfo in littore Baulos. Lib . xii. dverno next he ſhow'd his wond'ring Gueſt, Averno now with milder Virtues bleſs’d ; Black with ſurrounding Foreſts then it ſtood , That hung above, and darken'd all the Flood : Clouds of unwholſom Vapours, rais’d on high, The flutt'ring Bird intangled in the Sky, Whilft all around the gloomy Proſpect ſpread An awful Horror, and religious Dread. Hence to the Borders of the Marſh they gog That mingles with the baleful Streams below , And ſometimes with a mighty Yawn, 'tis faid , Opens a diſmal Paffage to theDead, Who pale with Fearthe rending Earth ſurvey, And ſtartle at the ſudden Flaſh of Day. The dark Cimmerian Grotto then he paints, Deſcribing all its old Inhabitants , That near the City of Naples, 149 That in the deep Infernal City dwellid, And lay in everlaſting Night conceald. Advancing ſtill, the ſpacious Fields he ſhow'd , That with the ſmother'd Heat of Brimſtone glow'd ; Through frequentCracks the ſteamingSulphur broke, And cover'd all the blaſted Plain with Smoke : Impriſon's Fires, in the cloſe Dungeons pent, Roar to get looſe, and ſtruggle for a Vent, Eating their way, and undermining all,, ' Till with a mighty Burſt whole Mountains fall. Here, as ' tis ſaid, the Rebel Giants lie, And, when to move th ' incumbentLoad they try, Aſcending Vapours on the Day prevail , The Sun looks fickly , and the Skies grow pale. Next to the diſtant Iſle his Sight he turns, That o'er the thunderſtruck Tiphous burns.: Enrag'd his wide- extended Jaws expire In angry Whirlwinds, Blafphemies and Fire, Threat'ning, if looſen'd from his dire Abodes, Again to challenge Jove, and fight the Gods. On Mount Veſuvio next he fixt his Eyes, And ſaw the ſmoking Tops confus’dly riſe ; ( A hideous Ruin ! ) that with Earthquakes rent A ſecond Ætna to the View preſent, Miſeno's Cape and Bauli laſt he view'd , That 'on the Sea's extremelt Borders ſtood . Silius Italicus here takes notice, that the poiſonous Vapours, which aroſe from the Lake Averno in Hannibal’s Time, were quite diſpers'd at the time when he wrote his Poem ; becauſe Agrippa, who Jiv'd between Hannibal and Silius, had cut down the Woods, that inclos'd the Lake, and hinder'd theſe . noxious Steams from diffipating,which were imme diately ſcatter'd as ſoon as the Winds and freſh Air were let in among them . THE THE ISLE of CAPREÁ. 1 Aving ſtaid longer at Naples than I át firſt deſign'd, I could notdiſpenſe with myſelf from making a little Voyage to the Iſle of Caprea, as being very deſirous to ſee a Place, which had been the Retirement of Auguftus for ſome time, and the Reſidence of Tiberius for ſeveral Years. The Inand lies four Miles in Length from Eaſt to Weſt, and about one in Breadth . The Weſtern Part, for about two Miles in Length, is a continu'd Rock vaſtly high , and inacceſſible on the Sea- ſide. It has however the greateſtTown in the Iſland, that goes under the Name of Ano-Caprea , and is in ſeveral Places cover'd with avery fruitful Soil . The Eaſtern End of the Iſle riſes up in Pre cipices very near as high, tho' not quite ſo long la's the Weſtern. Between theſe Eaſtern and Weſtern Mountains lies a Slip of lower Ground, which runs acroſs the Iſland, and is one of the pleaſanteſt Spots I have ſeen. It is hid with Vines, Figs, 'Oranges, Almonds, Olives, Myrtles, and Fields of Corn, which looks extremely freth and beautiful, and make up the moſt delightful little Landskip imagi nable, when they are furvey'd from the Tops of the neighbouring Mountains. Here ſtands the Town of Caprea, the Biſhop's Palace, and two or three Convents, The Ifle of Caprea. 151 Convents. In the midft of this fruitful Tract of Land riſes, a Hill, that was probably cover'd with Buildings in Tiberius's Time. There are ſtill feve ral Ruins on the Sides of it, and about the Top are found two or three dark Galleries, low built, and cover'd with Maſons Work, tho' at preſent they appear overgrown with Graſs. I enter'd one of them that is a hundred Paces in Length . I ob ſerved, as ſome of the Countrymen were digging into the sides of this Mountain, that what I took for folid Earth was only Heaps of Brick, Stone, and other Rabbifh , skinn'd over with a Covering of Vegetables. But the moſt conſiderable Ruin is that which: ftands on the very Extremity of the Eaftern Promontory, where are ſtill fome Apartments left, very high and arch'd at Top. I have notindeed ſeen the Remains of any ancient Roman Buildings, that have not been Roof'd with either Vaults or Arches. The Rooms I am mentioning ftand deep in the Earth, and have nothing like Windows or Chimnies, which makes me think they were for merly either Bathing places or Refervoirs of Wa ter. An old Flermit lives at preſent :among the Ruins of this Palace, who loft his Companion a few Years ago by a fall from the 'Precipice. He told me they had often found Medals and Pipes of Lead, as they dug among the Rubbifh , and that not many Years ago they diſcover?d a pava Road running un der Ground from the Top of the Mountain to the Sea - ſide, which was afterwards confirm’d to me by a Gentleman of the Iſland. There is a very noble Proſpect from this Place. On the one fide liesa vaft Extent of Seas, that runs abroad further than the Eye can reach . Juſt oppoſite ſtands the green Promontory of Surrentum ,and on the other ſide the whole Circuit ofthe Bay of Naples. This Prospect, according 152 The Iſle of Caprea. according to Tacitus, was more agreeable before the burning of Veſuvio. That Mountain probably , which after the firſt Eruption look'd like a great Pile of Aſhes, was in Tiberius's time ſhaded with Woods and Vineyards ; for I think Martial's Epigram may ſerve here as a Comment to Tacitus. Hic eft pampineis viridis Veſuvius umbris, Prefferat'hic madidos nobilis uva lacus. Hæc juga , quàm Nife colles, plus Bacchus amavit : Hócnuper Satyri monte dedere choros. Hæc Veneris ſedes, Lacedæmone gratior illi ; Hic locus Herculeo nomine clarus erat. Cuncta jacent flammis et triſti merſafavilla : Necſuperi vellent 'hoc licuiſſe fibi. Lib. ii. Epigr. 105. Veſuvio, cover'd with the fruitful Vine, Here flourifh'd once , and ran with Floods of Wine ; Here Bacchus oft to the cool Shades retir'd , And his own native Nifa leſs admir'd ; Oft to the Mountain's airy Tops advanc'd , The frisking Satyrs on the Summits danc'd ; Alcides here, here Venus grac'd the Shore, Nor lov'd her Fay’rite Lacedæmon more : Now Piles of Alhes, ſpreading all around , In undiſtinguiſh'd Heaps deform the Ground. The Gods themſelves the ruin'd Seats bemoan , And blame the Miſchiefs that themſelves have done, This View muſt ſtill have been more pleaſant, when the whole Bay was encompaſs’d with fo long a Range of Buildings, that it appear’d to thoſe, who look'd on it at a diſtance, but as one continu'd City . On both the shores of that fruit ful Bottom , which I have before mention'd, are ſtill The Iſle of Caprea . 153 ſtill to be ſeen the Marks of ancient Edifices ; parti cularly on that which looks towards the South there is a little kind of Mole, which ſeems to have been the Foundation of a Palace ; unleſs we may ſuppoſe that the Pharos of Caprea ftood there, which Sta. tius takes notice of in his Poem that invites his Wife to Naples, and is, I think , the moſt natural among the Sylve. Nec deſunt variæ circùm oble &tamina vite ; Sive vaporiferas, blandiſſima littora, Baias, Entheafatidicefeu viſere te &ta Sibylla Dulce ſit, Iliacoque jugum memorabile remo : Seu tibi Bacchei vineta madentia Gauri, Teleboumque domos, trepidis ubi dulcia nautis Lumina noctivagæ tollit Pharus æmula Lunæ, Caraque non molli juga Surrentina Lyeo. Sylv. 5. Lib. iii . v. 95. The bliſsful Seats with endleſs Pleaſures flow , Whether to Baia's Sunny Shores you go, And view the Sulphur to the Baths convey'd , Or the dark Grotte of the Prophetic Maid, Or ſteep Miſeno from the Trojan nam'd, Or Gaurus for its flowing Vintage fam'd , Or Caprea, where the Lanthorn fix'd on high Shines like a Moon through the benighted Sky, While by its Beams the wary Sailor ſteers ; Or where Surrentum , clad in Vines, appears. They found in Ano Caprea, fome Years ago, a Statue and a rich Pavement under Ground, as they had occafion to turn up the Earth that lay upon them . One ſtill fees, on the Bendings of theſe Mountains, the Marks of ſeveral ancient Scales of Stairs, by which they us’d to aſcend them. The whole 1:54 The Iſle of Caprea. whole Iſland is ſo unequal that there were but few Diverſións to be found in it without Doors ; but what recommended it moftrito Tiberius was its .wholſom Air, which is warm in Winter and cool in Sammer, and its inacceſſible Coafts, which are generally fo . very ſteep, that a handfulof Men might defend them againft apowerfulArmy. We need not doubt but Tiberius had his different ? Reſidences, according as the Seaſons of the Year, and his different Sets of Pleaſure requir’d. Suetonius fays, Duodecim Villas totidem nominibus ornavit . i.e. He diſtinguiſh'd twelve Towns by as many Names. The whole Iſland was probably cut into ſeveral eafy Aſcents, planted with variety of Palaces, and adorn'd with as great a multitudeof Groves and Gardens as the Situation of the Place would ſuffer. The Works under Ground were however more extraordinary than thoſe above it.; for the Rocks were all under mind with Highways, Grottoes, Galleries, Bagnios, and ſeveral ſubterraneous Retirements, that ſuited with the brutal Pleaſures of the Emperor. One would indeed very much wonder to ſee ſuch ſmall Appearances of the many Works of Art, that were formerly to bemet with in this Iſland , were we not ' told that the Romans, after the Death of Tiberius, ſent hither anArmy of Pioneers on purpoſe to demo liſh the Buildings, and deface the Beauties of the Iſland. In ſailing round Caprea we were entertain'd with many rude Proſpects of Rocks and Precipices, that rife in ſeveral Places half a Mile high in Perpendicu. lar. At the Bottom of them are Caves and Grot toes form’d by the continual breaking of theWaves upon them . I enter'd one which the Inhabitants call Grotto Obſcuro, and, after the Light of the Sun was a little.worn off myEyes, could fee all the Partsof ! The Iſle of Caprea. 155 of it diftinctly, by a glimmering Reflexion that play'd upon them from the. Surface of the Water. The Mouth is low and narrow ; but after having en ter'd pretty far in, the Grotto opens itſelf on both Sides in an oval Figure of anhundred Yards from one Extremity to theother, as we were told, for it wouldnot have been ſafe meaſuring ofit. The Roof is vaulted , and diſtils freſh Water from every Part of it , which fell upon us as faſt as the firſt Drop , pings of a Shower. The Inhabitants and Neapoli tans, who have heard of Tiberius's Grottoes, will have this to be one of them ; but there are ſeveral Reaſons that ſhow it to be natural. For beſides the little uſe we can conceive of ſuch a dark Cavern of Salt Waters, there are no where any Marks of the Chiſel; the Sides are of a ſoft mouldering Stone, and one ſees many of the like hollow Spaces worn in the Bottoms of the Rocks, as they are more or leſs able to refift the Impreſſions of the Water that beats againſt them . Not far from this Grotto lie the Sirenum Scopuli, which Virgil and Ovid mention in Aneas's Voyage ; they are two or three ſharp Rocks that ſtand about a Stone's - throw from the South - ſide of the Iſland, and are generally beaten by Waves and Tempeſte, which are much more violent on the South than on the North of Caprea. :) Jamque adeò Scopulos Sirenum adveeta ſubibat; Difficiles quondam , multorumque ofibus albos : Tum rauca aſiduo longè ſalė Jaxafonabant. Æn. 5. V. 8646 Glides by the Sirens Cliffs, a ſhelfy Coaſt, Long infamous for Ships and Sailors loft, And 156 The Iſle of Caprea. And white with Bones : Th'impetuous Ocean rores , And Rocks rebellow from the founding Shores, Dryden . I have before ſaid that they often find Medals in this Iſland. Many of thoſe they call the Spintriæ, which Aretin has copy'd , have been dug up here. I know none of the Antiquaries that have written on this Subject, and find nothing ſatisfactory of it where I thought it moſt likely to be met with , in Patin's Edition of Suetonius illuſtrated by Medals. Thoſe I have convers'd with about it, are of opi nion they were made to ridicule the Brutality of Tiberius, tho'I cannot but believe they were ſtamp'd by his Order. They are unqueſtionably antique, and no bigger than Medals of the third Magnitude. They bear on one ſide ſome lewd Invention of that helliſh Society, which Suetonius calls Monſtrofi con cubitus repertores, and on the other the Number of the Medal. I have ſeen of them as high as to twenty. I can't think they were made as a Jeſt on the Emperor, becauſe Rallery on Coins is of a modern Date. I know but two in the Upper Empire, beſides the Spintriæ , that lie under any Suſpicion of it. The firſt is one of Marcus Aurelius, where, in Compliment to the Emperor and Empreſs, they have ſtamp'd on the Reverſe the Figure of Venus carefling Mars, and endeavouring to detain him from the Wars. Quoniam 3 The Iſle of Caprea. 157 RI CTRIC Quoniam belli fera munera Mavors Armipotens regit, in grennium quifæpe tuumſe Rejicit, eterno devineius vulnere amoris. Lucr. Lib . i . V. 33 . Becauſe the brutal Bus'neſs of the War Is manag'd by thy dreadful Servant's Care, Who oft retires from fighting Fields, to prove The pleaſing Pains of thy Eternal Love : Dryden . The Venus has Fauſtina's Face ; her Lover is a naked Figure with a Helmet on his Head , and a Shield on his Arm, Yoryden. Tu ſcabie frueris mali, quod in Aggerė rodit Qui tegitur parmà et galeâ Juv. Sat. 5. V. 153 Such ſcabbed Fruit you eat , as, in his Tent, With Helmet armi'd and Shield , the Soldier gnaws. H This 158 The Iſle of Caprea. This unluckily brings to mind Fauſtina's Fondneſs for the Gladiator, and is therefore interpreted by many as a hidden Piece of Satire. But, beſides that ſuch a Thought was inconſiſtent with the Gravity of a Senate, how can one imagine that the Fathers would have dar'd to, affront the Wife of Aurelius, and the Mother of Commodus,' or that they could think of giving Offence to an Empreſs whom they afterwards deify'd, and to an Emperor that was the Darling of the Army and People. The other Medal is a golden one of Gallienus, preſerv'd in the French King's Cabinet ; it is inſcrib ed Galliena Augufte, Pax Ubique, and was ſtamp'd at a time when the Emperor's Father was in Bon dage, and the Empire torn in pieces by ſeveral Pre tenders to it. Yet, if one conſiders the ſtrange Stu pidity of this Emperor, with the ſenfeleſs Security which appears in ſeveral of his Sayings that are ſtill left on Record, one may very well believe this Coin was of his own Invention. Wemay be ſure, if Rallery had once enter'd the old Roman Coins, we ſhould have been overſtock'd with Medals of this nature ; if weconſider there were often Rival Em perors proclaim'd at the ſame time, who endeavour'd at the leffening of each other's Character, and that moſt of them were fucceeded by ſuch as were Ene mies to their Predeceffor. Theſe Medals of Tiberius were never current Money, but rather of the na ture of Medalions, which ſeem to have been made on purpoſe to perpetuate the Diſcoveries of that infa mous Society , Suetonius tells us, that their mon ſtrous Inventions were regiſter'd ſeveral ways, and preferv'd in the Emperor's private Apartment. Cu bicula plurifariam difpofita tabellis ac Sigillis lafcivif Jimarum pi&turarum etfigurarum adornavit, libriſque Elephantidis inftruxit : ne cui in Operá edenda exem plar The Iſle of Caprea. 159 plar impetrate Schema deeffet. i. e. He adorn’d his Apartments, which were variouſly diſpoſed, with Pi& ures and Seals, repreſenting the lewdeſt Images, and furniſh'd them with the Books of Elephantis, that no one might be at a loſs for Examples to copy after. The Elephantis here mention'd is probably the ſame Martial takes notice of for her Book of Poftures. . In Sabellum . Facundos mihi de libidinoſis Legi /tt nimium , Sabelle, verfus, Juales nec Didymi ſciunt puelle, Nec molles Elephantidos libelli. Sunt illic Veneris novæ figuræ : Quales, &c. Lib. xii. Epigr. 432 Too much, Sabellus, you delight In Poems, that to Luft excite , Where Venus, varying ftill her Shape, Provokes to Inceſt or a Rape : Not ſuch the lewdeft Harlots know , Nor Elephantis' Books can fhow . Ovid mentions the ſame kind of Pictures that found a Place even in Auguſtus's Cabinet. quæ Scilicet in domibus veſtris, ut priſca virorum Artifici fulgent corpora pi&ta manu ; Sic concubitus varios Veneriſque figuras Exprimat, eft aliquo parva tabella loco. De Trift. Lib . ii. V. 523 . As ancient Heroes, by the Painter's Hand Immortaliz’d , in thy rich Gallery ſtand , H 2 Immodeft ibo The Iſle of Caprea. Immodeſt Pictures in fome Corner lie, With Feats of Luft to catch the wanton Eye. There are ſeveral of the Sigilla , or Seals, Sueto nius ſpeaks of, to be met with in Collections of an cient Intaglios. But, I think, what puts it beyond all doubt that theſe Coins were rather made by the Emperor's Or der, than as a Satire on him is, becauſe they are now found in the very Place that was the Scene of theſe his unnatural Lufts. Quem rupes Caprearum tetra latebit Inceſto podelja Seni ? - Cl. de quarto. Conf, Hon. Who has not heard of Caprea's guilty Shore, Polluted by the rank old Emperor ? FROM FROM N A P L E S Τ ο ROME, by S E A. Took a Felucca at Naples to carry me to Rome, that I might not be forced to I run over the ſame Sights a ſecond time, and might have an Opportunity ofſee ing manythings in a Road,which our Voyage-Writers have not fo particu larly deſcrib'd . As in my Journey from Rome to Na ples, I had Horace for myGuide, ſo I had the Plea ſure of ſeeing my Voyage from Naples to Rome de ſcribed by Virgil. It is indeed much eaſier to trace out the Way Æneas took , than that of Horace, be cauſe Virgil has mark'd it out by Capes, INands, and other parts of Nature, which are not ſo ſubject to change or decay, as are Towns, Cities , and the Works of Art. Mount Paufilypo makes a beautiful Proſpect to thoſe who paſsby it: At a ſınall diſtance from it lies the little Idland of Niſida, adorned with a great variety of Plantations, riſing one above ano ther in ſo beautiful an. Order, that the whole H3 INand 162 From Naples to Iſland looks like a large Terrace Garden. It has two little Ports, and is not at preſent troubled with any of thofe noxious Steams that Lucan mentions. Tali Spiramine Nefis Emittit Stygium nebulofis Hera faxis. Lib. vi . v.90 . Nefis' high Rocks ſuch Stygian Air produce, And the blue breathing Peſtilence diffuſe. From Niſida we rowd to Cape Miſeno. The Ex tremity of this Cape has a long Cleft in it , which was inlarg'd and cut into Shape by Agrippa, who made this the great Port for the Roman Fleet that ſerv'd in the Mediterranean ; as that of Ravenna held the Ships deſign'd for the Adriatic and Archipe. lago. The higheſt End of this Promontory riſes in the faſhion of a Sepulcher or Monument to thoſe that ſurvey it from the Land, which perhaps might occa Sion Virgil's burying Mifenus under it. I have ſeen a grave Italian Author, who has written a very large Book on the Campania Felice, that, from Vir . gil's Deſcription of this Mountain, concludes it was callid Aërius before Mifenus had given it a new Name. At pius Æneas ingenti mole Sepulchrum Imponit, fuaque arma viro remumque tubamque Monteſub Aerio, qui nunc Miſenusab illo Dicitur, æternumque tenet per fæcula nomen . Æn. vi. v. 232 . But good Æneas order'd on the Shore A ſtately Tomb ; whoſe Top a Trumpet bore, A Soldier's Fauchion , and a Seaman's Oar, Thus } Rome, by Sea. 163 Thus was his Friend interrd ; and deathleſs Fame Still to thelofty Cape configns his Name. Dryden. There are ſtill to be ſeen a few Ruins of old Milenum ; but the moſt conſiderable Antiquity of the Place is a Set of Galleries that are hewn into the Rock , and are much more ſpacious than the Piſcina Mirabilis. Some will have them to have been a Reſervoir of Water ; but others more proba bly ſuppoſe them to have been Nero's Baths. ' I lay the firſt Night on the Iſle of Procita , which is pretty well cultivated, and contains about four thouſand Inhabitants, who are all Vaffals to the Marquis de Vafto. The next Morning I went to ſee the ide of Iſchia , that ſtands further out into the Sea. The an cient Poets call it Inarime, and lay Typhæus under it, by reaſon of its Eruptions of Fire. There has been no Eruption for near theſe three hundred Years. The laſt was very terrible, and deſtroy'd a whole City. At preſent there are ſcarce any Marks left of a fubterraneous Fire ; for the Earth is cold , and over run with Graſs and Shrubs, where the Rocks will ſuffer it. There are indeed ſeveral little Cracks in it, thro' which there iſſues a conſtant Smoke ; but ' tis probable this ariſes from the warm Springs that feed the many Baths, with which this Inand is plen. tifully ſtock’d. I obſerv'd , about one of theſe breath ing Paſſages, a Spot of Myrtles that flouriſh within the Steam of theſe Vapours, and have a continual Moiſture hanging upon them . On the South of Iſchia lies a round Lake of about three Quarters of á Mile diameter, feparate from the Sea by a narrow Tract of Land. It was formerly a Roman Port. On the North End of this Ifland ſtands the Town and Caſtle, on an exceeding high Rock, divided H 4 from 164 From Naples to from the Body of the Iſland , and inacceſſible to an Enemy on all Sides. This Iſland is larger, but much more Rocky and Barren than Procita. Virgil makes thern both ſnake at the Fall of part of the Mole of Bair, that ſtood at a few Miles diſtance from them. Qualis in Euboico Baiarum littore quondam Saxea pila cadit, magnis quam molibus antè Conſtructam jaciunt pelago : Sic illa ruinam Prona trahit, penituſque vadis illiſa recumlit : Miſcent ſe Maria et nigræ attolluntur arene ; Tum fonitu Prochyta alta tremit, durumque cubile Inarime, Jovis imperiis impoſta Typhoo. Æn. ix. V. 710.

Not with leſs Ruin than the Baian Mole ( Rais'd on the Seas the Surges to control) At once comes tumbling down the rocky Wall ; Prone to the Deep the Stones disjointed fall Off the vaſt Pile ; the ſcatter'd Ocean flies Black Sands, diſcolour'd Froth , and mingled Mud ariſe. The frighted Billows roll , and ſeek the Shores : Trembles high Prochyta , and Iſchia rores : Typhæus rores beneath, by Hove's Command, Aftonith'd at the Flaw that ſhakes the Land ; Soon ſhifts his weary Side, and ſcarce awake, With Wonder feels the Weight preſs lighter on his Back. Dryden . I don't ſee why Virgil, in this noble Compariſon, has given the Epithet of Alta to Prochyta ; for it is not only no high Iſand in itſelf, but is much lower than Iſchia, and all the Points of Land that lie with in its Neighbourhood. I ſhould think Alta was join'd adverbially with Tremit, did Virgil make uſe of fo equivocal Rome, by Sea. 165 equivocal a Syntax. I cannot forbear inſerting, in this Place, the lame Imitation Silius Italicus has made of the foregoing Paſſage. Haud aliter fructo Tyrrhena ad littora Saxo, Pugnatura fretis ſubter cæciſque procellis Pila immane fonans, impingitur arduaponto ; Immugit Nereus, diviſaque cærula pulſu Illifum accipiunt irata fúb æquora inontem . Lib . iv. . So vaſt a Fragmentof the BaianMole, That, fix'd amid the Tyrrhene Waters, braves " The beating Tempeſts and inſulting Waves, Thrown from its Baſis with a dreadful Sound, Daſhes the broken Billows all around, And with reſiſtleſs Force 'the Surface cleaves, That in its angry Waves the falling Rock receives. The next Morning going to Cumæ thro' a very pleaſant Path, by the Mare Mortuum , and the Ely fian Fields, we ſaw in our way a great many Ruins of Sepulchers, and other ancient Edifices. Cume is at preſent utterly deftitute of Inhabitants, ſo much is it chang'd finceLucan's time, if the Poem to Pija be his. · Acidalia qua condidit Alite muros Euboicam referens fæcunda Neapolis urbem . Where the fam’d Walls of fruitful Naples lie, for Multitudes with Cumæ vie. That may They ſhow here the Remains of Apollo's Tem. ple, which all the Writers of the Antiquities of this Place ſuppoſe to have been the ſame Virgil deſcribes in his Sixth Æneid, as built by Dedalus, and that H5 the 166 From Naples to the very Story, which Virgil there mentions, was actually engraven on the Front of it . Redditus his primùm terris tibi, Phæbe, facravit Remigium Ålarum , poſuitque immania Templa. In foribus lethum Androgeo : tum pendere pænas Cecropidæ jufi, miferum ! Septena quotannis Corpora Natorum: Stat duētis fortibus urna. Contra elata mari reſpondet Gnoffia tellus, &c. Æn. vi. v . 19 To the Cumæan Coaſt at length he came, And, here alighting , built his coſtly Frame Infcrib'd to Phæbus, here he hungon high The Steerage of his Wings that cut the Sky ; Then o'er the lofty Gate his Art emboſs'd Androgeos' Death, and Off'rings to his Ghoſt, Sev'n Youths from Athens yearly ſent to meet The-Fate appointed by revengeful Crete ; And next to thoſe the dreadful Urn was plac'd, In which the deſtind Names by Lots were caft. Dryden . ! Among other fubterraneous Works there is the beginning of a Paſſage, which is ſtopp'd up, within leſs than a hundred Yards of the Entrance, by the Earth that is fallen into it . They ſuppole it to have been the other Mouth of the Sibyls Grotto. It lies indeed in the fame Line with the Entrance near the Avernus, is fac'd alike with the Opus Reticulatum , and has ftill the Marks of Chambers that have been cut into the sides of it, Among the many Fables and Conjectures which have been made on this Grotto, I think it is highly probable, that it was once inhabited by ſuch as perhaps thought it a better Skelter againſt the Sun than Rome, by Sea. 167 than any other kind of Building, or at leaſt that it was made with ſmaller Trouble and Expence. As for the Mofaic and other Works that may be found in it, they may very well have been added in later Ages , according as they thought fit to put the Place to different Uſes. The Story of the Cimmerians is indeed clogg’d with Improbabilities, as Strabo relates it ; but it is very likely there was in it fome Foun dation of Truth . Homer's Deſcription of the Cim merians, whom he places in theſe Parts, anſwers very well to the Inhabitants of ſuch a long dark Cavern . The gloomy Race, in fubterraneous Cells, Among ſurrounding Shades and Darkneſs dwells ; Hid in th’unwhollom Covert of the Night, They fhun the Approaches of the chearful Light: The Sun ne'er viſits their obſcure Retreats, Nor when he runs his Courſe, nor when he ſets. Unhappy Mortals ! Odyſ . Lib. x . Tu quoque littoribus noftris, Æneia nutrix, Æternam moriens famam , Cajeta , dedifti : Et nunc fervat honos fedem tuus, olſaque nomen Heſperiâ in magna, ſi qua eft ea gloria , ſignat. Æn. vii. v. 1 . And thou, O Matron of Immortal Fame, Here dying, to the Shore haft left thy Name : Cajeta ſtill the Place is call'd from Thee, The Nurſe of great Æneas' Infancy . Here reſt thy Bones in rich Heſperia's Plains ; Thy Name('tis all a Ghoſt can have) remains. Dryden. I ſaw at Cajeta the Rock of Marble, faid to be cleft by an Earthquake at our Saviour's Death. There is written over the Chapel Door, that leads into 168 From Naples to into the Crack, the Words of the Evangelift Ecce terræ motus factus eſt magnus : Behold , there was a great Earthquake ! I believe every one who fees this vaſt Rent in ſo high a Rock, and obſerves how exactly the Convex Parts of one Side tally with the Concave of the other , muſt be ſatisfy'd that it was the Effect of an Earthquake, tho' I queſtion not but it either happen'd long before the. time of the Latin Writers, or in the darker Ages ſince ; for otherwiſe I cannot but think they would have taken notice of its original. The Port, Town, Caſtle, and Antiquities of this place have been often, deſcribed . We touch'd next at Monte Circeio, which Homer calls Inſula Æëa, whether it be that it was formerly an Iſland , or that the Greek Sailors of his time thought it ſo. It is certain they might eaſily have beendeceiv'd by its Appearance, as being a very high Mountain join'd 'to the main Land by a narrow Tract of Earth, that is many Miles in Length, and almoſt of a level with the Surface of the Water. The End of this Promontory is very rocky, and mightily expos'd to the Winds and Waves, which perhaps gave the firſt Riſe to the howlings of Wolves, and the roarings of Lions, that usdto be heard thence. ThisI had a very lively Idea of, being forc'd to lie under it a whole Night. Virgil's De ſcription of Æneaspaſſing by this Coaft can never be enough admir'd. It is worth while to obſerve how, to heighten the Horror of the Deſcription , he has prepar'd the Reader's Mind, by the Solemnity of Cajeta's Funeral, and the dead. Stilneſs of the Night. At pius exequiis Æneas ritè folutis, Aggere compoſito túmuli, poftquam alta quierunt Æquora , Rome, by. Sea, 169 Æquora, tendit iter velis, portumque relinquit, Adjpirant aure in nočiem , nec candida curſus Luna negat : Splendet tremulo fub lumine pontus. Proxima Circææ raduntur littora terræ : Dives inacceſſos ubi Solis filia lucos Aſiduo refonat cantu, teétiſque ſuperbis Ürit odoratam nocturna in lumina cedrum , Arguto tenues percurrens peltine telas : Hinc exaudiri gemitus, iræque Leonum Vincla recufantum , et ſeráſub nocte rudentum : Setigerique ſues atque in præſepibus urſi Sevire, acformemagnorum ululare luporum : Quos hominum exfacie Dea ſeva potentibus herbis Induerat Circe in vultus ac terga ferarum. Que ne monftra pii paterentur talia Troës Delati in portus, neu littora dira fubirent, Neptunus ventts implevit vela fecundis, Atque fugam dedit , et præter vadafervida vexit. Æn. vii . v . 5 } Now when the Prince her Funeral Rites had paid , He plow'd the Tyrrhene Seas with Sails diſplay'd ; From Land a gentle Breeze aroſe , by Night Serenely ſhone the Stars, the Moon was bright, And the Sea trembled with her Silver Light . Now near the Shelves of Circe's Shores they run, (Circe the rich , the Daughter of the Sun ) A dang’rous Coaſt : The Goddeſs waſtes her Days. In joyous Songs, the Rocks reſound her Lays : In Spinning or the Loom, ſhe ſpends her Night, And Cedar Brands ſupply her Father's Light. From hence were heard, ( rebellowing to the Main ) The roars of Lions that refuſe the Chain , The Grunts of briſtled Boars, and Groans of Bears, And Herds of howling Wolves that ſtun the Sailors Ears. There 170 - From Naples to Theſe from their Caverns, at the Cloſe of Night, Fill the ſad Ifle with Horror and Affright. Darkling they mourn their Fate,whom Circe's Pow'r, ( That watch'd the Moon , and Planetary Hour) With Words and wicked Herbs, from Human Kind Had alter'd , and in brutal Shapes confin'd . Which Monſters left the Trojan's pious Hoft Should bear, or touch upon th’inchanted Coaſt ; Propitious Neptune ſteer'd their Courſe by Night With riſing Gales, that ſped their happy Flight. Dryden. Virgil calls this Promontory Æëe Inſula Circes in the third Æneid ; but ' tis the Hero, and not the Poet that ſpeaks. Itmay however be look'd upon as an Intimation , that he himſelf thought it an Inand in Æneas's Time. As for the thick Woods, which not only Virgil but Homer mentions, in the beauti ful Deſcription that Plutarch and Longinus have taken notice of, they are moſt of them grubbed up fince the Promontory has been cultivated and in habited ; tho'there are ſtill many Spots of it which ſhow the natural Inclination of the Soil leans that way. The next Place we touch'd upon was Nettuno, where we found nothing remarkable beſides the ex treme Poverty and Lazineſs of the Inhabitants. At two Miles diſtance from it lie the Ruins of Antium , that are ſpread over a great Circuit of Land. There are ſtill left the Foundations of ſeveral Buildings, and, what are always the laſt Parts that periſh in a Ruin, many fubterraneous Grottoes and Paſſages of a great Length. The Foundations of Nero's Port are ftill to be ſeen . It was altogether Artificial, and compos'd of huge Moles running round it, in a kind of Circular Figure, except where the Ships were Rome, by Sea. 171 were to enter , and had about three quarters of a Mile in its ſhorteſt Diameter. Tho' the making of this Port muft have coft prodigious Sums of Money, we find no Medal of it, and yet the ſameEmperor has a Medal ſtruck in his own Name for the Port of Oftia, which in reality was a work of his Prede ceffor Claudius. The laſt Pope was at confiderable Charges to make a little kind of Harbour in this Place , and to convey freſh Water to it, which was one of the Artifices of the Grand Duke, to divert his Holineſs from his Project of making Civita vecchia a free Port. There lies, between Antium and Nettuno, a Cardinal's Villa, which is one of the pleaſanteſt for Walks, Fountains, Shades, and Proſpects that I ever faw. Åntium was formerly famous for the Temple of Fortune that ſtood in it. All agree there were two Fortunes worſhipped here, which Suetonius calls the Fortunæ Antiates, and Martial the Sorores Antii. Some are of Opinion , that by theſe two Goddefles were meant the two Nemeſes, one of which rewarded good Men, as the other puniſh'd the wicked. Fa. bretti and others are apt to believe, that by the two Fortunes were only meant in general the Goddeſs who fent Proſperity , or ſhe who fentAMictions to Mankind, and produce in their Behalf an ancient Monument found in this very Place, and fuper fcrib'd Fortune Felici ; which indeed may favour one Opinion as well as the other, and ſhows at leaſt they are not miſtaken in the general Senſe of their Diviſion . I don't know whether any Body has taken notice, that this double Function of the God deſs gives a conſiderable Light and Beauty to the Ode which Horace has addreſs’d to her. The . whole Poem is a Prayer to Fortune, that ſhe would proſper Cæſar's Arms, and confound his Enemies, fo 172 From Naples to ſo that each of the Goddeſſes has her Task aſſign'd in the Poet's Prayer ; and we may obſerve the In vocation is divided between the iwo Deities, the firſt Line relating indifferently to either. That which I have mark'd ſpeaks to the Goddeſs of Proſperity, or, if you pleaſe, to the Nemeſis of the Good, and the other to the Goddeſs of Adverſity, or to the Nemeſis of the Wicked. O Diva gratum quæ regis Antium , Præſens vel imo tollere de gradu Mortale corpus, vel ſuperbos Vertere funeribustriumphos! &c. Od. xxv. Lib.i. Great Goddeſs, Antium's Guardian Power, Whoſe Force is ſtrong, andquick to raiſe The loweſt to the higheſt Place ; Or with a wondrous Fall To bring the haughty lower , And turn proud Triumphs to a Funeral, &c. Creech . If we take the firſt Interpretation of the two Fortunes for the double Nemeſis, the Compliment to Cæſar is the greater, and the fifth Stanza clearer than the Commentators uſually make it ; for the Clavi trabales, cunti, uncus , liquidumque plumbum , were actually uſed in the Puniſhment of Criminals. Our next Stage brought us to the Mouth of the Tiber, into which we enter'd with ſome Danger, the Sea being generally very rough in the Parts, where the River ruſhes into it . The Seaſon of the Year, the Muddineſs of the Stream, with the many .green Trees hanging over it , put me in mind of the delightful Image that Virgil has given us when Æneas took the firſt View of it. Atque Rome, by Sea. 173 Atque hic Æneas ingentem exæquore lucum Profpicit : hunc inter fluvio Tiberinus ameno, Vorticibus rapidiset multå flavus arena, In mare prorumpit: variæ circumque ſupraque Aluete ripis volucres et fluminis alveo, thera mulcebant cantu, lucoque volabant. FleEtere iter Sociis, terræque advertere proras Imperat, et lætus fluviofuccedit opaco. Æn. vii . V. 29. The Trojan from the Main beheld a Wood, Which thick with Shades ,and a brown Horror ſtood : Betwixt the Trees the Tiber took his Courſe, With Whirlpools dimpled ,and with downward Force That drove the Sand along, he took his Way, And rollid his yellow Billows to the Sea : About him , and above, and round the Wood, The Birds that haunt the Borders of his Flood, That bath'd within, or bask'd upon his Side, To tuneful Songs their narrow Throats apply’d . The Captain gives Command, the joyful Train Glidethrough the gloomy Shade, and leave the Main. Dryden. It is impoffible to learn from the Ruins of the Port of Oftia what its Figure was when it ſtood whole and entire. I ſhall Therefore ſet down the Medal, that I have before mention'd , which repreſents it as it was formerly If 174 From Naples to ST AVG RO to bi E E It is worth while to compareJuvenal's Deſcription of this Port with the Figure it makes on the Coin . Tandem intrat pofitas inclufa per æquora moles, Tyrrhenamque Pharon, porre&taque brachia, rurſus Qua pelago occurrunt medio, longéque relinquunt Italiam : non fic igitur mirabere portus Quos Natura dedit Juv. Sat. xii . v. 75. At laſt within the mighty Mole ſhe gets, Our Tyrrhene Pharos, that the mid Sea meets With its Embrace, and leaves the Land behind ; A Work ſo wondrous Nature ne'er deſign'd . Dryden. The Seas may very properly be ſaid to be inclos'd ( Inclufa ) between the two semicircular Moles that almoſt ſurround them. The Coloſſus, with ſomething like a lighted Torch in its Hand , is probably the Pharos in the ſecond Linc. The twoMoles , that we Rome, by Sea. 175 we muſt ſuppoſe are join'd to the Land behind the Pharos, are very Poetically deſcrib'd by the Porreétaque brachia , rurſus Quæ pelago occurrunt medio, longéque relinquunt Italiam as they retire from one another in the Compaſs they make, 'till their two Ends almoft meet a ſecond time in the midſt of the Waters, where the figure of Neptune fits. The Poet's Reflexion on the Haven is very juſt, ſince there are few natural Ports better land - lock'd, and cloſed on all Sides than this ſeems to have been. The Figure of Neptune has aRudder by him, to mark the Convenience of the Harbour for Navigation, as he is repreſented himſelf at the Entrance of it, to fhew it ſtood in the Sea. The Dolphin diſtinguiſhes him from a River God, and figures out his Dominion over the Seas. He holds the fame Fiſh in his Hand on other Medals. What it means we may learn from the Greek Epigram on the Figure of a Cupid, that had a Dolphin in one Hand , and a Flower in the other. Ουδε μάτων παλάμαις κατέχει δελφίνα και άνθO, Τη μου γαρ γαίαν, τηδε θάλασαν έχει. A proper Emblem graces either Hand, In one he holds the Sea, in one the Land. Half a Day more brought us to Rome, thro' a Road that is commonly viſited by Travellers. ROME, R0 M E. started T is generally obſerv'd, that Modern Rome ſtands higher than the Ancient ; I ſome have computed it about four teen or fifteen Feet, taking one Place with another. The Reaſon given for it is , that the preſent City ſtands upon the Ruins of the former ; and indeed I have often obſerved, that where any confiderable Pile of Build ing ſtood anciently, one ftill finds a riſing Ground, or a little kind of Hill, which was doubtleſs made up out of the Fragments and Rubbiſh of the ruin'd Edifice. But beſides this particular Cauſe , we may affign another that has very much contributed to the raiſing the Situation of ſeveral Parts of Rome : It be . ing certain the great Quantities of Earth , that have been walh'd off from the Hills by the Violence of Showers have had no ſmall ſhare in it . This any one may be ſenſible of, who obſerves how far ſeveral Buildings, that ſtand near the Roots of Mountains, are funk deeper in the Earth than thoſe that have been on the Tops of Hills, or in open Plains ; for which reaſon the preſent Face of Rome is much more Even and Level than it was formerly ; the fame Cauſe, that has rais’d the low Grounds, having con tributed to ſink thoſe that were higher. There are in Rome two Sets of Antiquities, the Chriſtian and the Heathen. The former, tho' of a freſher Date, are ſo embroild with Fable and Le gend, ROM E. 177 gend, that one receives but little Satisfaction from Searching into them . The other give a great deal of Pleafure to ſuch as have met with them before in ancient Authors ; for a Man who is in Rome can ſcarce ſee an Object that does not call to mind a Piece of a Latin Poet or Hiſtorian. Among the Re mains of old Rome, the Grandeur of the Common wealth ſhows itſelf chiefly in Works that were either neceſſary or convenient, ſuch as Temples, High ways, Aqueducts, Walls, and Bridges of the City. On the contrary the Magnificence of Rome, under the Emperors, was rather for Oftentation or Luxury, than any real Uſefulneſs or Neceſſity, as in Baths, Amphitheatres, Circus's, Obelisks, Triumphant Pillars, Arches, and Mauſoleums; for what they ad ded to the Aqueducts was rather to ſupply their Baths and Naumachias, and to embelliſh the City with Fountains, than out of any real Neceflity there was for them . Theſe ſeveral Remains have been ſo co. piouſly deſcrib'd by abundance of Travellers, and other Writers, particularly by thoſe concern’d in the learned Collection of Grevius, that it is very diffi cult to make any new Diſcoveries on ſo beaten a Subject. There is however ſo much to be obſerv'd in fo ſpacious a Field of Antiquities, that it is almoſt impoſible to ſurvey them without taking new Hints, and raiſing different Reflexions, according as a Man's natural Turn of Thoughts, or the Courſe of his Stu dies direct him . No Part of the Antiquities of Rome pleas'd me fo much as the ancient Statues, of which there is ſtill an incredible Variety. TheWorkmanſhip is often the moſt exquiſite of any thing in its kind . ' A Man would wonder how it were poſſible for fo much Life to enter into Marble, as may be diſcover'd in ſome of the beſt of them ; and even in the meaneſt one has 1 178 ROM E. has the Satisfaction of ſeeing the Faces, Poſtures, Airs and Dreſs of thoſe that have liv'd ſo many Ages before us. There is a ſtrange Reſemblance between the Figures of the ſeveral Heathen Deities, and the De fcriptions that the Latin Poets have given us of them ; but as the firſt may be look'd uponas the ancienter of the two, I queſtion not but the Roman Poets were the Copiers of the Greek Statuaries. Tho'on other Occaſions we often find the Statuaries took their Subjects from the Poets. The Laocoon is too known an Inſtance, among many others that are to be met with at Rome. In the Villa Aldobrandina are the Fi gures of an old and young Man, engaged together at the Caftus, who are probably the Dares and En tellus of Virgil ; where by the way one may obſerve the Make of the ancient Cæſlus, that it only con fifted of many large Thongs about the Hand, with out any thing like a piece of Lead at the End of them , as ſome Writers of Antiquities have fallly imagin'd. I queſtion not but many Paſſages in the old Poets hint at ſeveral Parts of Sculpture , that were in vogue in the Author's Time, tho'they arenow never thought of, and that therefore ſuch Paſſages loſe much of their Beauty in the Eye of a modernReader, who does not look upon them in the fameLight with the Au thor's Cotemporaries. I ſhall only mention two or three out of Juvenal, thathis Commentators have not taken notice of : The firſt runs thus ; Malta pudicitiæ veteris veftigia forfan , Aut aliqua extiterint, etſub Jove, jedJove nondum Barbato. Sat. vi . v. 14. Some thin Remains of Chaſtity appear'd Ev'n under Jove, but fove without a Beard . Dryden. I appeal RME. 179 I appeal to any Reader, if the Humour here would not appear much more natural and unforced to a People that ſaw every Day fome or other Statue of this God with a thick buſhy Beard , as there are ſtill many of them extant at Rome, than it can to us who have no ſuch Idea of him ; eſpecially if we conſider there was in the ſame City a Temple dedi cated to the young Jupiter , calld Templum Vejovis, where, in allprobability, there ſtood the particular Statue of a * Jupiter Imberbis. Juvenal, in another Place, makes his Flatterer compare the Neck of one that is feebly built to that of Hercules holding up Anteus from the Earth. Et longum invalidi collum cervicibus æquat Herculis Antæum procul à tellure tenentis. Sat. iii. v, 88 His long Crane.Neck and narrow Shoulders praiſe ; You'd think they were deſcribing Hercules Lifting Anteus Drydena What a ſtrain'd unnatural Similitude muſt this ſeem to a modern Reader, but how full of Hu mour, if we ſuppoſe it alludes to any celebrated Statues of thefe two Champions, that ſtood perhaps in ſome public Place or Highway near Rome ? And, what makes it more than probable there were ſuch Statues, we meet with the Figures, which Yu venal here deſcribes, on antique Intaglios and Me dals . Nay, Propertius has taken notice of the very Statues.

• Vid , Ovid, de Faftis, Lib . iii.

Luctantum 18 R O M E. Lucantum in pulvere figna Herculis Antæique Lib. iii . Eleg. 22. 1.9 Ant.eus here and ſtern Alcides ſtrive , And both the grappling Statues ſeem to live. I cannot forbear obſerving here, that the Turn of the Neck and Arms is often commended in the La tin Poets among the Beauties of a Man, as in Horace we find both put together, in that beautiful Deſcrip tion of Jealouſy : Dum tu, Lydia, Telephi Cervicem roſeam , & cerea Telephi Laudas Brachia, va meum Fervens difficili bile tumet jecur. Tunc nec mens mihi, nec color Certå fede manent : humor in genas Furtim labitur, arguens Quàm lentispenitus macerer ignibus. Od. 13. Lib. i. v. I. . While Telephus's youthful Charms, His roſy Neck, and winding Arms, With endleſs Rapture you recite , And in the tender Namedelight ;. My Heart, enrag'd by jealous Heats, With numberleſs Reſentment beats ; From my pale Cheeks the Colour flies, And all the Man within me dies ; By Fits my ſwelling Grief appears In rifing Sighs, and falling Tears, That ſhow too well the warm Deſires, The filent, flow , conſuming Fires, Which on my inmoſt Vitals prey, And melt my very Soul away. 1 This R O M E. 181 This we ſhould be at a loſs to account for, did we not obſerve in the old RomanStatues, that theſe two Parts were always bare, and expos'd to View, as much as our Hands and Face are at preſent, I cannot leave Juvenal without taking notice that his Ventilat æſtivum digitis ſudantibusaurum , Nec ſufferre queat majoris pondera Gemmé. Sat. i. v. 28. Chargʻd with light Summer Rings his Fingers ſweat, Unable to ſupport a Gem of Weight; Dryden . was not anciently ſo great an Hyperbole as it is now ; for I have ſeen old Roman Rings ſo very thick about, and with ſuch large Stones in them that ' tis no wonder a Fop ſhould reckon them a little cumberſom in the Summer Seaſon of ſo hot a Climate. It is certain that Satire delights in ſuch Allu fions and Inſtances as are extremely natural and familiar : When therefore we ſee any thing in an old Satiriſt that looks forc'd and pedantic, we ought to conſider how it appear'd in the time the Poet writ, and whether or no there might not be ſome particular Circumſtances to recommend it to the Readers of his own Age, which weare now deprived of. One of the fineſt ancient Statues in Ronne is a Meleager with a Spear in his Hand, and the Head of a wild Boar on one side of bim . It is of Parian Marble, and as yellow as Ivory. One meets with many other Figures of Meleager in the ancient Baſſo Relievos, and on the sides of the Sarcophagi, or Funeral Monuments. Perhaps it was I the 182 R O M E. the Arms or Device of the old Roman Hunters ; which Conjecture l have found confirm'd in a Paſſage of Manilius, that lets us know the Pagan Hunters had Meleager for their Patron , as the Chriſtians have their St. Hubert. He ſpeaks of the Conſtellation which makes a good Sportſman. Quibus aſpirantibus orti Te, Meleagre, colunt - Manil. Lib . v . They, on whoſe Birth this Conſtellation ſhone, Thee, Meleager, for their Patron own . I queſtion not but this ſets a Verſe, in the fifth Satire of Juvenal, in a much better Light than if we ſuppoſe that the Poet aims only at the old Story of Meleager, without conſidering it as ſo very common and familiar a one among the Romans. Flavi dignus ferro Meleagri Spumat aper - Juv. Sat. 5.V.115. A Boar intire, and worthy of the Sword Of Meleager , ſmokes upon the Board . Bowles. In the Beginning of the ninth Satire, Juvenal asks his Friend, why he looks like Marſya when he was overcome ? Scire velim quare toties mihi, Nevole, triftis Occurris fronte obducta , ſeu Marſya victus ? y. 1 . Tell me why ſantring thus from Place to Place, I meet thee, Nævolus, with a clouded Face ? Dryden's Juvenal. Some R O M E. 183 Some of the Commentators tell us, that Marſya was a Lawyer who had loſt his Cauſe ; others ſay that this Paflage alludes to the Story of the Satyr. Marſyas, who contended with Apollo ; which I think is more humourous than the other, if we conſider there was a famous Statue of Apollo fleaing Marſya in the midſt of the Roman Forum , as there are ftill ſeveral ancient Statues of Rome on the ſame Subject, There is a Paſſage in the ſixth Satire ofJuvenal, that I could never tell what to make of, ' till I had got the Interpretation of it from one of Bellorio's an cient Baſo Relievos. Magnorum Artificum frangebat pocula miles, Ut phaleris gauderet Equus : cælataque callis Romuleæ fimulachra feræ manfuefcere juffa Imperii fato ,et geminos ſub rupeQuirinos, Acnudam effigiem clypeo fulgentis ethafta , Pendentiſque Dei perituro oftenderet hofti. Juv. Sat. xi. V. 102. Or elſe a Helmet for himſelf he made, Where various Warlike Figureswere inlaid : The Roman Wolf ſuckling the Twins was there, And Mars himſelf, arm'd with his Shield and Spear, Hov'ring above his Creft, did dreadful ſhow , As threatning Death to each reſiſting Foe. Dryden's Juvenal. Juvenal here deſcribes the Simplicity of the old Roman Soldiers , and the Figures that were general ly engraven on their Helmets. The firſt of them was the Wolf giving Suck to Romulus and Remus : The ſecond, which is comprehended in the two laſt Verſes is not ſo intelligible . Some of the Com mentators tell us, that the God here mentioned is Mars, 1 2 184 R O M E. Mars, that he comes to ſee his two Sons fucking the Wolf, and that the old Sculptors generally drew their Figures naked , that they might have the Ad. vantage of repreſenting the different ſwelling of the Muſcles, and the turns of the Body. But they are extremely at a loſs to know what is meant by the WordPendentis ; ſome fancy it expreſſes only the great Emboſſment of the Figure ; others believe it hung off the Helmet in Alto Relievo, as in the fore going Tranſlation .Lubin ſuppoſes, that the God Mars was engraven on the Shield , and that he is ſaid to be hanging, becauſe the Shield which bore him hung on theleft Shoulder. One of the old Interpreters is of Opinion, that by hanging is only meant a Poſture of bending forward to Itrike the Enemy. Another will have it, that whatever is placed on the Head may be faid to hang, as we call Hanging Gardens ſuch as are planted on the Top of the Houſe . Several learned Men, who like none of theſe Explications, believe there has been a Fault in the Tranſcriber, and that Pendentis ought to be Perdentis ; but they quote no Manuſcriptinfavour of their Conjecture. The true meaning of the Words is certainly as follows. The Roman Soldiers, who were not a little proud of their Founder, and the Military Genius of their Republic, us'd to bear on their Helmets the firſt Hiſtory of Romulus, who was begot by the God of War, and ſuckled by a Wolf. The Figure of the God was made as if deſcending on thePrieſteſs Ilia, or as others call her Rhea Silvia . The Occaſion required his Body Should be naked. Tuquoque inermis eras cumteformoſa Sacerdos Cepit, ut hinc urbi Semina magna dares. Ovid, de Faft. Lib . iii. v. 10, Then R 0 M E. 185 Then too, our mighty Sire, thou ſtood'ſt diſarm’d , When thy rapt Soul the lovely Prieſteſs charm’d, That Rome's high Founder bore tho' on other Occaſions he is drawn, as Horace has deſcrib'd him , Tunicâ cin &tum adamantina - Girt with a Veſt of Adamant. The Sculptor however, to diſtinguiſh him from the reſt of the Gods, gave him, what the Medalliſts call his proper Attributes, a Spear in one Hand, and a Shield in the other. As he was repreſented deſcending, his Figure ap peared ſuſpended in the Air over the Veſtal Virgin , in which Senſe the Word Pendentis is extremely proper and Poetical. Beſides the Antique Balo Re lievo, that made me firſt think of this Interpreta tion , I have ſince met with the fame Figures on the Reverſes of a couple of ancient Coins, which were ſtamp'd in the Reign of Antoninus Pius, as a Compliment to that Emperor, whom, for his excellent Government and Conduct of the City of Rome, the Senate regarded as a ſecond kind of Founder . ! ! IS 186 ROM E. SITY ERA R MPE III S 1 Ilia Veftalis ( quid enim vetatinde moveri) Sacra lavaturas manè petebat aquas : Feffa refedit humi, venteſque accepit aperto Pettore, turbatas reſtituitque comas. Dumfedet, umbrofajálices volucreſque canore Fecerunt Somnos Kleve murmur aqua . Blanda quies vietis furtim ſubrepit ocellis, Ec cadit à mento languida facta manus. Mars ROM E. 187 Mars videt hanc, viſamque cupit, potiturque cupita : Et ſua divinâfurta fefellit ope. Somnus abit: jacet illa gravis; jam fcilicet intra Viſcera Romanæ conditor urbis erat. Ovid . de Faftis, Lib. iii . v. 11 . As the fair Veſtal to the Fountain came, ( Let none be ſtartled at a Veftal's Name) Tir'd with the Walk, ſhe laid her down to reſt, And to the Winds expos'd her glowing Breaſt To take the Freſhneſs of the Morning Air, And gather'd in a Knot her flowing Hair : While thus ſhe refted on her Arm reclin'd, The hoary Willows waving with the Wind, And feather'd Quires that warbled in the Shade, And purling Streams that through the Meadow ftray'd , In drowſy Murmurs lull’d the gentle Maid. The God of War beheld the Virgin lie, The God beheld her with a Lover's Eye, And by fo tempting an Occaſion preſs'd, The beauteous Maid, whom he beheld, poffefod : Conceiving, as ſhe flept, her fruitful Womb Swell’d with the Founder of Immortal Rome. I cannot quit this Head without taking notice of a Line in Seneca the Tragedian. Primus emergitfolo Dextraferocem cornibus premens taurum Zetus Sen. Edip. Act. 3 . CN Firft Zetus riſes through the Ground , Bending the Bull's tough Neck with Pain, That toffes back his Horns in vain. I 4 I can 188 R Ο Μ Ε. I cannot doubt but the Poet had here in View the Poſture of Zetus in the famous Groupe of Figures, which repreſents the two Brothers binding Dirce to the Horns of a mad Bull. I could not forbear taking particular notice of the ſeveral Muſical Inſtruments that are to be ſeen in the Hands of the Apollos, Muſes, Fauns, Satyrs, Bacchanals, and Shepherds, which might certainly give a great Light to the Diſpute for Preference be tween the ancient and modern Muſic. It would perhaps be no impertinent Deſign to take off all their Models in Wood, which might not only give us fome Notion of the ancient Muſic, but help us to pleaſanter Inſtruments than are now in uſe . By the Appearance they make in Marble, there is not one String -Inſtrument that ſeems comparable to our Violins ; for they are all play'd on , either by the bare Fingers, or the PleEtrum ; ſo that they were incapa ble of adding any Length to their Notes, or of vary ing them by thoſe inſenſible Swellings , andwearings away of Sound upon the ſame String, which give ſo wonderful a Sweetneſs to our modern Muſic. Be ſides, thatthe String -Inſtrunientsmuſt have had very low and feeble Voices, as may be gueſs'd from the ſmall Proportion of Wood about them , which could not contain Air enough to render the Strokes, in any confiderable meaſure , full and ſonorous. There is a great deal of difference in the Make, not only of the feveral kinds of Inſtruments, but even among thoſe of the fame Name. The Syringa, for Example, has ſometimes four, and ſometimes more Pipes, as high as to twelve. The ſame variety of Strings may be ob ferved on their Harps, and of Stops on their Tibie ; which ſhows the little Foundation that ſuch Writers ' have gone upon , who from a Verſe perhaps in Virgil's Eclogues, or a ſhort Paſſage in a Claſic Author, have been R O M E. 189 3 1 } 1 f been fo very nice in determining the preciſe Shape o the ancient Muſical Inſtruments, with the exact Number of their Pipes, Strings, and Stops. It is in deed the uſual Fault of the Writers of Antiquities, to ftraiten and confine themſelves to particular Models. They are for making a kind of Stamp on every thing of the fame Name, and, if they find any thing like an old Deſcription of the Subject they treaton, they take care to regulate it , on all Occafions, according to the Figure it makes in ſuch a Paſſage: As the learned German Author, quoted by Monſieur Baudelot, who had probably never ſeen any thing of a Houfhold -God, more than a Canopus, affirms round ly, that all the ancient Lares were made in the Faſhi on of a Jug - Bottle. In ſhort, the Antiquaries have been guilty ofthe ſame Fault asthe Syſtem -Writers, who are for cramping their Subjects into as narrow a Space as they can , and for reducing the whole Ex tent of a Science into a few general Maxims. This a Man has occaſion of obſerving more than once, in the ſeveral Fragments of Antiquity that are ſtill to be ſeen in Rome. How many Dreſſes are there for each particular Deity ? . What a Variety of Shapes in the ancient Urns, Lamps, Lachrymary Veſſels, Priapus's, Houfhold -Gods,which have ſome ofthem been repreſented under fuch a particular Form , as any one of them has been deſcrib'd with in an an cient Author, and would probably be all ſo, were they not ftill to be ſeen in their own Vindication ? Madam Dacier, from fome old Cuts of Terence, fancies that the Larva or Perſona of the Roman Ac tors, was not only a Vizard for the Face, but had falſe Hair to it , and came over the whole Head like a Helmet. Among all the Statues at Rome, I remember to have ſeen but two that are the Fi. gures of Actors, which are both in the Villa Matthei. IS One 190 ROM É . One ſees on 'em the Faſhion of the old Sock and Larva, the latter of which anſwers the Deſcription that is given of it by this learned Lady, tho' I queſtion not but ſeveral others were in uſe , for I have ſeen the Figure of Thalia, the Comic Muſe, ſometimes with an intire Head-piece in her Hand, ſometimes with about half the Head, and a little Friz, like a Tower, running round the Edges of the Face, and ſometimes with a Mask for the Face only, like thoſe of a modern Make. Some of the Italian Actors wear at preſent theſe Masks for the whole Head . I remember formerly I could have no Notion of that Fable in Phædrus, before I had ſeen the Figures of theſe in tire Head pieces. Perſonam Tragicam fortè Vulpes viderat: O quanta Species, inquit, cerebrum non habet ! Lib . i . Fab. 7 As wily Renard walk'd the Streets at Night, On a Tragedian's Mask he chanc'd to light ; Turningit o'er he mutter'd with Diſdain , How valt a Head is here without a Brain ! I find Madam Dacier has taken notice of this Paſſage in Phædrus, upon the fameOccaſion ; but not of the following one in Martial, which alludes to the ſame kind of Masks ; Non omnesfallis, ſcit te Proſerpina carum ; Perfonam capiti detrahet 'illa tuo. Lib. ii. Epigr. 43 . Why ſhould'ſt thou try to hide thyſelf in Youth ? Impartial Proferpine beholds the Truth, . And, laughing at fo fond and vain a Task, Will ſtrip thy hoary Noddle of its Mask. In R O M E. 191 Inthe Villa Borgheſe is the Buft of a young Nero, which ſhows us the Form of an ancient Bulla on the Breaſt, which is neither like a Heart, as Ma crobius deſcribes it, nor altogether reſembles thatin Cardinal Chigi's Cabinet ; ſo that, without eſtabliſh ing a particular Inſtance into a general Rule, we ought, in Subjects of this nature, to leave Room for the Humour of the Artiſt or Wearer. There are many Figures of Gladiators at Rome, tho' I don't remember to have ſeen any of the Retiarius, the Samnite, or the Antagoniſt to the Pinnirapus.. But what I could not find among the Statues, 1 met: with in two Antique Pieces of Moſaic, which are : in the Poffefſion of a Cardinal. The Retiarius is, engag'd with the Samnite, and has had fo lucky a throw , that his Net covers the whole Body of his Adverſary from Head to Foot ; yet his Antagoniſt recover'd himſelf out of the Toils, and was Con queror, according to the Inſcription. In another Piece is repreſented the Combat of the Pinnirapus, who is arm'd like the Samnite, and not like the Re tiarius, as fome learned Men have fuppoſed : On the Helmet of his Antagoniſt are ſeen the two Pinne, that ſtand up on either ſide like the Wings in the Petaſus of a Mercury, but riſe much higher and are more pointed: There is no part ofthe Roman Antiquities that we: are better acquainted with , than what relates to their Sacrifices. For as the old Romans were very much devoted to their Religion, we fee ſeveral Parts of it entering their ancient Ballo Relievos, Statues, and Medals , not to mention their Altars, Tombs, Monuments, and thoſe particular Ornaments of Ara chitecture, which were borrow'd from it . An Hea then Ritual could not inſtruct a Man better than theſe ſeveral Pieces of Antiquity, in the particular Cere 192 R O M E. Ceremonies and Punetilios that attended the diffe rent kinds of Sacrifices. Yet there is a much greater Variety in the Make of the facrificing In Itruments, than one finds in thoſe who have treated of them , or have given us their Pictures. For not to inſiſt too long on ſuch a Subject, I ſaw in Signior Antonio Politi's Collection a Patera with out any riſing in the middle, as it is generally engraven, and another with a Handle to it, as Macrobius deſcribes it , tho' it is quite contrary to any that I have ever ſeen cut in Marble ; and I have obſerved perhaps ſeveral Hundreds. I might here inlarge on the Shape of the triumphal Cha riot , which is different in ſome pieces of Sculpture from what it appears in others ; and on the Figure of the Diſcus, that is to be ſeen in the Hand of the celebrated Caſtor at Don Livio's, which is perfectly round , and not oblong, as ſome Antiquaries have re preſented it, nor has it any thing likea Sling faften'd to it , to add force to the toſs. Protinus imprudens, aEtuſque cupidine lufus Tollere Tænarides orbemproperabat -De Hyacinthi diſco . Ovid . Metam . Lib. x. V. 182 . Th’unwary Youth , impatient for the Caft, Went to ſnatch up the rolling Orb in haſte. Notwithſtanding there are fo great a multitude of cloth'd Statues at Rome, I could never diſcover the ſeveral different Roman Garments; for 'tis very dif ficult to trace out the Figure of a Veſt, thro'all the Plaits and Foldings of the Drapery ; beſides that the Roman Garments did not differ from each other ſo much by the Shape, as by the Embroidery and Co lour, 1 R 0 M E. 193 lour, the one of which was too nice for the Sta. tuary's Obſervation, as the other does not lie within the Expreſſion of the Chiſel. I obſerved, in abun dance of Bas Reliefs, that the Cinétus Gabinus is nothing elſe but a long Garment, not unlike a Sur plice, which would have trail'd on the Ground had it hung looſe, and was therefore gather'd about the middle with a Girdle. After this it is worth while to read the laborious Deſcription that Ferrarius has made of it . Cinetus Gabinus non aliud fuit quàm cum toga lacinia lævo brachio ſubducta in tergum ita rejiciebatur, ut contracta retraheretur ad pectus, atque ita in nodum necteretur ; qui nodus five cinetus togam contrahebat, brevioremque etfrictiorem reddidit . De re Veſtiar. Lib . i . Cap. 14. The Cinetus Gabinuswas nothing more, than , when the bottom of the Garment, being thrown over the left Shoulder behind the Back , was brought round the Breaſt, in ſuch a manner as to be gather'd into a Knot ; which Knot or Cincture, ſtraiten’d the Garment, and made it both leſs and tighter. Lip fius's Deſcription of the Samnite Armour, ſeems drawn out of the very Words of Livy; yet not long ago a Statue, which was dug up at Rome, dreſs'd in this kind of Armour, gives a much different Expli cation of Livy from what Lipfius has done. This Figure was ſuperſcrib’d BA. TO. NI. from whence Fabretti concludes, that it was a Monument erected to the Gladiator Bato, who, after having ſucceeded in two Combats, was kill'd in the third , and how nourably interr'd, by Order of the Emperor Cara calla . The manner of Punctuation after each Syl lable is to be met with in other Antique Inſcriptions. I confeſs I could never learn where this Figure is now to be ſeen ; but I think it may ſerve as an In france lo 194 R O M E. ftance of the great Uncertainty of this Science of Antiquities * In a Palace of Prince Ceſarini I ſaw Bufts of all the Antonine Family, which were dug up about two Years ſince , not far from Albano , in a Place where is ſuppoſed to have ſtood a Villa of Marcus Aurelius. There are the Heads of Antoninus Pins, the Fauſtina's, Marcus Aurelius, Lucius Verus, a young Commodus, and Annius Verus, all incompa rably well cut. Tho' the Statues that have been found among the Ruins of old Rome are already very numerous, there is no queſtion but Pofterity will have the Plea fure of ſeeing many noble Pieces of Sculpture which are ſtill undiſcover’d ; for doubtleſs there are greater Treaſures of this nature under Ground, than what are yet brought to Light. They have often dug into Lands that are deſcrib'd in old Authors, as the Places where ſuch particular Statues and Obelisks ftood , and have feldom fail'd of Succeſs, in their Purſuits. There are ſtill many ſuch promiſing Spots of Ground that have never been ſearched into . A great part of the Palatine Mountain, for Example, lies untouch’d, which was formerly the Seat of the Imperial Palace, and may be preſum'd to abound with more Treaſures of this Nature than any other Part of Rome. Ecce Palatino crevit reverentia monti, Exultatque habitante Deo, potioraque Delphis. Supplicibus latè populis oracula pandit. Non alium certè decuit rectoribus orbis, Vid. Fabr. de Columnâ Trajani.. Elle R O M E. 195 Ele Larem , nulloqué magis fecolle poteftas & ftimat et fummifentit faſligia juris, Attollens apicemfubje &tis regia roftris Tot circum delubravidet , tantiſque Deorum Cingitur excubiis Claud . de fexto Conſulat. Honorii. The Palatine, proud Rome's Imperial Seat, ( An awful Pile !) ſtands venerably Great : Thither the Kingdoms and the Nations come, In ſupplicating Crowds to learn their Doom : To Delphi leſs th' enquiring Worlds repair, Nor does a greater God inhabit there : This ſure the pompous Manſionwas deſign'd To pleaſe the mighty Rulers of Mankind ; Inferior Temples riſe on either Hand, And on the Borders of the Palace ftand, While o'er the reſt her Head ſhe proudly rears, And lodg’d amidſt her Guardian Gods appears. But whether it be that the richeſt of theſe Difco . veries fall into the Pope's Hands, or for fome other Reaſon, it is ſaid that the Prince Farneſe, who is the preſent Owner of this Seat, will keep it from beingturn'dup, 'till he fees one of his own Fa. milyin the Chair. There are Undertakers in Rome whooften purchaſe the digging of Fields, Gardens, or Vineyards, where they find any likelihood of ſuca ceeding, andſome have been known to arrive at great Eſtates by it. They pay according to the Di menſions of the Surface they are to break up, and after having made Eſſays into it , as they do for Coal in England, they rake into the moſt pro miſing Partsof it, thoʻthey often find to their Dif appointment, that others have been beforehand with 'em . However they generally gain enough by the Rubbiſha 196 R O M E. Rubbiſh and Bricks, which the preſent Architects value much beyond thoſe of a modern Make, to de fray the Charges of their Search. I was fhown two Spaces of Ground, where part of Nero's golden Houſe ſtood, for which the Owner has been offer'd an extraordinary Sum of Money. What encou rag 'the Undertakers are ſeveral very ancient Trees, which grow upon the Spot, from whence they con clude that theſe particular Tracts of Ground muſt have lain untouch'd for ſomeAges. 'Tis pity there is not ſomething like a public Regiſter, to preferve the Memory of ſuch Statues as have been found from time to time, and to mark the particular Places where they have been taken up, which would not only prevent many fruitleſs Searches for the future, but might often give a conſiderable Light into the Quality of the Place, or the Deſign of the Statue. But the great Magazine for all kinds of Treaſure, is ſuppoſed to be the Bed of the Tiber. We may be fure , when the Romans lay under the Apprehen ſions of ſeeing their City fack'd by a barbarous Enemy, as they have done more than once, that they would take care to beſtow ſuch of their Riches this way as could beſt bear the Water : beſides what the Inſolence of a brutiſh Conque ror may be fuppofed to have contributed , who had an Ambition to waſte and deſtroy all the Beauties of ſo celebrateda City. I need not men tion the old Common - fhore of Rome, which ran from all parts of the Town with the Current and Violence of an ordinary River, nor the frequent Inundations of the Tiber , which may have ſwept away many of the Ornaments of its Banks, nor the ſeveral Statues that the Romans themſelves flung into it, when they would revenge themſelves on the: 1 R 0 M E. 197 . the Memory of an ill Citizen , a dead Tyrant, or a diſcarded Favourite. At Rome they have ſo general an Opinion of the Riches of this River, that the Jews have formerly proffer'd the Pope to cleanſe it, To they might have, for their Pains, whatthey found in the Boſom of it. I have ſeen the Valley near Ponte molle, which they propos'd to faſhion into a new Channel for it , 'till they had clear'd the old for its Reception. The Pope however would not comply with the Propoſal, as fearing the Heats might ad vance too far beforethey had finiſhed their Work, and produce a Peſtilence amonghis People ; tho' I don't ſee why fuch a Deſign might not be executed now with as little Danger as in Auguſtus's Time, were there as manyHands employed upon it . The City of Rome would receive a great Advantage from the Undertaking, as it wouldraiſe theBanks and deepen the Bedof the Tiber , and by Conſequence free ' em from thoſe frequent Inundations to which they are ſo ſubject at preſent ; for the Channel of the River is obſerved to be narrower within the Walls, than either below or above them. Before I quit this Subject of the Statues, I think it very obſervable, that, among thoſe which are al ready found, there ſhould be ſo many not only of the fame Perſons, but made after the fame Deſign . One would not indeed wonder to ſee ſeveral Figures of particular Deities and Emperors, who had aMulti tude of Temples erected to 'em , and had their ſe veral Sets of Worſhippers and Admirers. Thus Ce res, the moſt beneficent and uſeful of the Heathen Divinities, has more Statues than any other of the Gods or Goddeſſes, as ſeveral of the Roman Em preffes took a Pleaſure to be repreſented in her Dreſs. And I believe one finds as many Figures of that ex cellent Emperor Marcus Aurelius; as of all the reſt together ; 198 R O M E. together ; becauſe the Romans had ſo great a Venera . tion for his Memory, that it grew into a part of their Religion to preſerve a Statue of bim in almoſt every private Family. But how comes it to paſs, that fo many of thefe Statues are cut after the very ſame Model, and not only of theſe, but of ſuch as had no Relation , either to the Intereſt or Devotion of the Owner, as the dying Cleopatra, the Narciſus, the Fawn leaning againſtthe Trunk of a Tree ,the Boy with a Bird in his Hand, the Leda and her Swan , with many others of the fame Nature ! I muſt confeſs I always look'd on Figures of this kind as the Copies of ſome celebrated Mafter-piece, and queſtion not but they were famous Originals, that gave Riſe to the ſeveral Statues which we fee with the ſame Air, Poſture, and Attitudes. What con firms mein this Conjecture, there aremany ancient Statues of the Venusde Medicis, the Silenus with the young Bacchus in his Arms, the Hercules Farneſe, the Antinous, and other beautiful Originals of the Ancients, that are already drawn out of theRubbiſh , where they lay conceal'd for ſo many Ages. Among the reſt I have obferved more that are form’d after the Deſign ofthe Venus ofMedicis, than of any other ; from whence I believe one may conclude, that it was the moſt celebrated Statue among the Ancients, as well as among the Moderns. It has always been uſual for Sculptors to work upon the beſt Models, as it is for thoſe that are Curious to have Copies of them . I am apt to think ſomething ofthe ſame Account may be given of the Reſemblance that we meet with in many of the Antique Bajo Relievos. I re member I was very well pleaſed with the Device of one that I met with on the Tomb of a young Ro man Lady, which had been made for her by her Mother. R O M E. 199 Mother. TheSculptor had choſen the Rape of Pro ſerpine for his Device, where in one End you might ſee the God of the Dead ( Pluto) hurrying away a beautiful young Virgin ( Proſerpine) and at theother the Grief and Diſtraction of the Mother ( Ceres) on that Occaſion . I have fince obſerved the fame De vice upon ſeveral Sarcophagi, that have inclos’d the Aſhes of Men or Boys, Maids or Matrons ; for when the Thought took, tho' at firſt it received its Riſe from ſuch a particular Occaſion as I have men tion'd, the Ignorance of the Sculptors apply'd it pro miſcuouſly. I know there are Authors whodiſcover a Myſtery in this Device. AMan is ſometimes ſurpriſed to find ſo many ex travagant Fancies as are cut on the old Pagan Tombs. Masks, Hunting -matches, and Bacchanals, are very common ; ſometimes onemeets with a lewd Figure of a Priapus, and in the Villa Pamphilia is ſeen a Satyr coupling with aGoat. There are how ever many of a more ſerious Nature, that ſhadow out the Exiſtence of the Soul after Death , and the Hopes of a happy Immortality. I cannot leave the Bajo Relievos , without mentioning one of ' em , where the Thought is extremely noble . It is calld Homer's Apotheofis, and conſiſts of a Groupe of Figures cut in the ſame Block of Marble, and rifing one above another by four or five different Aſcents. Jupiter fits at the Top of it with a Thunderbolt in his Hand, and, in ſuch a Majefty as Homer himſelf repreſents him , preſides over the Ceremony. T 3 Εύρον δ' ευρύοπα Kegνίδω άτερ ή μνoν άλλων, 'Ακροτάτη κορυφή σολυδεράδα Ούλύμποιο. 11. i . V. 498. There , 200 R O M E. There, far apart , and high above the reft, The Thund'rer ſat; where old Olympus ſhrouds His hundred Heads in Heav'n, and props the Clouds. Pope. Immediately beneath him are the Figures of the nine Muſes, ſuppos’d to be celebrating the Praiſes of the Poet. Homer himſelf is placed at oneEnd ofthe loweſt Row, fitting in a Chair of State, which is fupported on each side by the Figure of a kneeling Woman. The one holds a Sword in her Hand to repreſent the Iliad, or Actions of Achilles, as the other has an Apluſtre to repreſent the Odyſey, or Voyage of Ulyſſes. About the Poet's Feet are creep ing a Couple of Mice, as an Emblem of the Batra chomyomachia. Behind the Chair ſtands Time, and the Genius of the Earth, diſtinguiſh'd by their pro per Attributes, and putting a Garland on the Poet's Head, to intimate the mighty Reputation he has gain'd in all Ages, and in all Nations of the World. Before him ſtands an Altar with a Bull readyto be ſacrific'd to the new God, and behind the Victim a Train of the ſeveral Virtues that are repreſented in Homer'sWorks, or to be learnt out of them , lifting up their Hands in Admiration of the Poet, and in Applauſe of the Solemnity. This antique Piece of Sculpture is in the Poffeffion of the Conſtable Colon na , but never ſhown to thoſe who ſee the Palace, unleſs they particularly deſire it. Among the great Variety of ancient Coins which I ſaw at Rome, I could not but take particular no tice of ſuch as relate to any ofthe Buildings or Sta tues that are ſtill extant. Thoſe of the firſt kind have been already publiſhed by the Writers of the Roman Antiquities, and may be moſt of them met with in the laſt Edition of Donatus, as the Pillars of Trajan R O M E. ' 201 $ , Trajan and Antonine, the Arches of Drufus Germa nicus and Septimius Severus, the Temples of Janus, Concord, Veſta, Jupiter tonans, Apollo and Fauſtina, the Circus Maximus, Agonalis, and that of Caracal la, or, according to Fabretti, of Galienus, of Veſpa fian's Amphitheatre, and Alexander Severus's Baths; tho', I muſt confeſs, the Subject of the laſt may be very well doubted of. As for the Metaſudans and Pons Ælius, which have gain'd a Place among the Buildings that are now ſtanding , and to be met with on old Reverſes of Medals ; the Coin that ſhows the firſt is generally rejected as ſpurious, nor is the other, tho' cited in the laſt Edition of Monſieur Vaillant, eſteem'd more Authentic by the preſent Roman Me daliſts, who are certainly the moſt skilful in the World, as to the mechanical Part of this Science. I ſhall cloſe up this ſet of Medals with a very curious one , as large as a Medalion , that is fingular in its kind. On one side is the Head of the Emperor Trajan , the Reverſe has on it the Circus Maximus, anda View of the Side of the Palatine Mountain that faces it, on which are ſeen ſeveral Edifices, and among the reſt the famous Temple of Apollo , that has ſtill a confiderable Ruin ſtanding. This Medal I ſaw in the Hands of Monſeigneur Strozzi, Bro ther to the Duke of that Name, whohas many Curio ſities in his Poſſeſſion , and is very obliging to a Stran ger who deſires the sight of 'em . It is a ſurpriſing thing, that among the great Pieces of Architecture repreſented on the old Coins, one can never meet with the Pantheon , the Mauſoleum of Auguſtus, Nero's Golden Houſe, the MolesAdriani, theSepti zonium of Severus, the Baths of Dioclefian, &c. But ſince it was the Cuſtom of the Roman Emperors thus to regiſter their moſt remarkable Buildings as well as Actions, and ſince there are ſeveral in eitherof 202 R O M E. of theſe kinds not to be found on Medals, more ex traordinary than thoſe that are, we may, I think, with great Reaſon fufpect our Collectionsof the old Coins to be extremely deficient, and that thoſe which are already found out ſcarce bear a Proportion to what are yet undiſcover’d. A Man takes a great deal more Pleaſure in ſurveying the ancient Statues, who compares them with Medals, than it is poflible for him to do without ſome little Knowledge this way ; for theſe two Arts illuſtrate each other ; and as there are ſeveral Particulars in Hiſtory and Anti quities which receive a great Light from ancient Coins, ſo would it be impoſſible to decipher the Faces of the many Statues that are to be ſeen at Rome, without ſo univerſal a Key to them . It is this that teaches to diſtinguiſh theKings and Confuls,Emperors and Empreſſes, the Deities and Virtues, with a thou ſand other Particulars relating to Statuary, and not to be learnt by any other Means. In the Villa Pamphilia ſtands the Statue of a Man in Woman's Clothes, which the Antiquaries do not know what to make of, and therefore paſs it off for an Herma. phrodite : But a learned Medaliſt in Rome has lately fix'd it to Clodius, who is ſo famous for having in truded into the Solemnities of the Bona Dea in aWo. man's Habit ; for one ſees the ſame Features and Make of Face in a Medal of theClodian Family. I have ſeen on Coins the four fineſt Figures per haps that are now extant : The Hercules Farneſe, the Venus of Medicis, the Apollo in the Belvidere, and the famous Marcus Aurelius on Horſeback . The oldeſt Medal that the firſt appears upon is one of Commodus, the Second on one of Fauſtina, the Third on one of Antoninus Pius, and the laſt on one of Lucius Verus. We may conclude, I think, from hence, that theſe Statues were extremely celebrated among 1 R O M E. 203 among the old Romans, or they would never have been honoured with a Place among the Emperor's Coins. We may further obſerve, that all four of ’em make their firſt Appearance in the Antonine Fa. mily ; for which reaſon I am apt to think they are all of them the Product of that Age. They would probabiy have been mention'd by Pliny the Naturalift, who liv'd in the next Reign, ſave one, before Anto ninus Pius, had they been made in his Time. for the Brazen Figure of Marcus Aurelius on Horſe back , there is no doubt of its being of this Age, tho' I muſt confeſs it may be doubted , whether the Me. dal I have cited repreſents it. All I can ſay for it is,'that the Horſe and Man on the Medal are in the ſame Poſture as they are on the Statue, and that there is a Reſemblance of Marcus Aurelius's Face ; for I have ſeen this Reverſe on a Medalion of Don Livio's Cabinet, and much more diſtinctly in ano. ther very beautiful one, that is in the Hands of Signior MarcusAntonio. It is generally objected, that Lucius Verus would rather have plac'd the Figure of him ſelf Horſebackupon the Reverſe of his own Coin , than the Figure of Marcus Aurelius. But it is very well known that an Emperor often ſtamp'd on his Coins the Face or Ornaments of his Collegue, as an Inſtance of his Reſpect or Friendſhip for him ; and we may ſuppoſe Lucius Verus would omitno Oppor tunity of doing Honour to Marcus Aurelius, whom he rather rever'd as his Father, than treated as his Partner in the Empire. The famous Antinous in the Belvidere muſt have been made too about this Age ; for he dy'd towards the Middle of Adrian's Reign, the immediate Predeceſſor of Antoninus Pius. This intire Figure, tho' not to be found in Medals, may be ſeen in ſeveral precious Stones. Monſieur LaChaufe, the Author of the Mulæum Romanum , Thew'd on 204 R O M E. Thew'd me an Antinous that he has publiſh'd in his laſt Volume, cut in a Cornelian, which he values at fifty Piſtoles. It repreſents him in the Habit of a Mercury, and is the fineſt Intaglia that I ever ſaw . Next to the Statues, there is nothing in Rome more ſurpriſing than that amazing Variety ofancient Pil lars of ſo many kinds of Marble. As moſt of the old Statues may be well ſuppos’d to have been cheaper to their firſt Owners, than they are to a modern Purchaſer, ſeveral of the Pillars are certainly rated at a much lower Price at preſent than they were of old . For, not to mention what a huge Column of Gra nite, Serpentine, or Porphyry muſt have coft in the Quarry, or in its Carriage from Ægypt to Rome, we may only conſider the great Difficulty ofhewing it intoany Form , and of giving it the due Turn, Pro portion and Poliſh . It is well known how theſe forts of Marble refift the Impreffions of ſuch Inftru ments as are now in uſe. There is indeed a Mila neſe at Rome who works in them; but his Advances are fo very ſlow , that he ſcarce lives upon what he gains by it. He ſhow'd me a Piece of Porphyry work'd into an ordinary Salver, which had coſt him four Months continual Application , before he could bring it into that Form . The Ancientshad proba bly fome Secret to harden the Edges of their Tools, without recurring to thoſe extravagant Opinions of their having an Art to mollify the Stone, or that it was naturally ſofter at its firſt cutting from the Rock, or, what is ſtill more abſurd , that it was an artifi cial Compoſition, and not the natural Product of Mines and Quarries. The moſt valuable Pillars about Rome, for the Marble of which they are made, are the four Columns of Oriental Jaſper in St. Pau lina's Chapel at St. Mary Maggiore; two of Oriental Granite in St. Pudenziana ; one of tranſparent Ori ental R O M E. 205 ental Jaſper in the Vatican Library ; four of Nero Bianco in St. Cecilia Tranſtevere ; two of Brocatello, and two of Oriental Agate in Don Livio's Palace ; two of Giallo Antico in St. John Lateran, and two of Verdi Antique in the Villa Pamphilia . Theſe are all intire and folid Pillars, and made of ſuch kinds of Marble as are no where to be found but among Antiquities, whether it be that the Veins of it are undiſcover'd , orthat they were quite exhauſted upon the ancient Buildings. Among theſe old Pillars I cannot forbear reckoning a great part of an Alabaſter Column, which was found in the Ruins of Livia's Portico. It is of the Colour of Fire, and may be ſeen over the high Altar of St. Maria in Campitello; for they have cut it into two Pieces, and fix'd it in the Shape of a Croſs in a Hole of theWall that was made on purpoſe to receive it ; ſo that the Light, pafling thro' it from without, makes it look , to thoſe who are in the Church, like a huge tranſparent Croſs of Amber, As for the Workmanſhip of the old Roman Pillars , Monſieur Delgodet , in his accu rate Meaſures of theſe Ruins, has obſerved , that the Ancients have not kept to the nicety of Proportion , and the Rules of Art, ſo much as the Moderns in this particular. Some, to excuſe this Defect, lay the Blame of it on the Workmenof Ægypt, and of other Nations, who fent moſt of the ancient Pillars ready ſhap'd to Rome : Others ſay, that the Ancients, knowing Architecture was chiefly deſign'd to pleaſe the Eye, only took care to avoid luch Diſpro portions as were groſs enough to be obſerv'd by the Sight, without minding whether or no they ap proach'd to a Mathematical Exactneſs: Others will have it rather to be an Effect of Art, and of what the Italians call the Guſto grande, than of any Neg ligence in the Architect; for they ſay, the Ancients K always 206 R O M E. always conſider'd the Situation of a Building, whe ther it were high or low , in an open Square or in a narrow Street, and more or leſs deviated from their Rules of Art, to comply with the ſeveral Diſtances and Elevations from which their Works were to be regarded . It is ſaid there is an lonic Pillar in the Santa Maria Tranſtevere, where the Marks of the Compaſs are ſtill to be ſeen on the Volute, and that Palladio learnt from hence the working of that dif ficult Problem ; but I never could find time to exa mine all the old Columns of that Church. Among the Pillars I muſt not paſs over the two nobleſt in the World, thoſe of Trajan and Antonine. There could not have been a more magnificent Deſign than that of Trajan's Pillar. Where could an Emperor's Aſhes have been fo nobly lodg’d, as in the midſt of his Metropolis, and on the top of ſo exalted a Mo nument, with the greateſt of his Actions underneath him ? Or, as ſome will have it , his Statue was on the Top, his Urn at the Foundation , and his Battles in the midſt. The Sculpture of it is too well known to be here mention'd . The moſt remarkable Piece in Antonine's Pillar is the Figure of Jupiter Pluvius, ſending down Rain on the fainting Army of Marcus Aurelius, and Thunderbolts on his Enemies, which is thegreateſt Confirmation poffible of theStory of the Chriſtian Legion, and will be a ſtanding Évi dence for it, when any Paſſage in an old Author may be ſuppoſed to be forged. The Figure, that Jupiter here makes among the Clouds, puts me in mind of a Paſſage in the Æneid , which gives juſt ſuch another Image of him. Virgil's Interpreters are certainly to blame, that ſuppoſe it is nothing but the Air which is here meant by Jupiter. Quantus ab occaſu veniens pluvialibus hodis Verberat imber bumum , quàm multa grandine nimbi In R O M E. 207 In vada precipitant, quum Jupiter horridus auſtris Torquet aquofam hyemem , et coelo cava nubila rumpit. Æn. ix . v. 668. The Combat thickens, like the Storm that flies From Weſtward, when the ſhow'ry Kids ariſe : Or patt'ring Hail comes pouring on the Main , When Jupiter deſcends in harden'd Rain , Or bellowing Clouds burſt with a ſtormy Sound, And with an armed Winter ſtrew the Ground. Dryden. I have ſeen a Medal, that, according to the Opi nion of many learned Men, relates to the ſameStory . The Emperor is intitled on it Germanicus, (as it was in the Wars of Germany that this Circumſtance hap pened) and carries on the Reverſe a Thunderbolt in his Hand ; for the Heathens attributed the fame Mi racle to the Piety of the Emperor, that the Chriſtians aſcribed to the Prayers of their Legion . Fulmen de colo precibus fuis contra hoftium Machinamentum Marcus extorſit, fuis pluviâ impetratà cùmfiti labo rarent. Jul. Capit. The Emperor Marcus Aurelius, by his Prayers, extorted Thunder from Heav'n againſt the Enemy's battering Engine, having obtain'd Rain for his Army, when it wasoppreſs’d with Thirſt. Claudian takes notice of this Miracle, and has given the fame Reaſon for it . Ad templa vocatus, Glemens Marce, redis, cum gentibus undique cinetam Exuit Heſperiam paribus fortuna periclis. Laus ibi nulla ducum , nam flammeus imber in hoſtem ) Decidit, bunc dorfo trepidumfumanteferebat K Ambuftus 2 208 R O M E. Ambuftusſonipes ; hic tabefcente folutus Subſedit galeâ, liquefactaque fulgure cuſpis Canduit, et ſulitisfluxere vaporibus enſes. Tunc, contenta polo, mortalis nefcia teli Pugna fuit . Chaldæa magoſeu carmina ritu Armavere Deos : ſeu, quod reor, omne tonantis Obfequium Marci mores potuere mereri, De fexto Conf. Hon . So mild Aurelius to the Gods repaid The grateful Vows that in his Fears he made, When Latium from unnumber'd Foes was freed : Nor did he Then by his own Force ſucceed ; But with deſcending Show'rs of Brimſtone fir’d , The wild Barbarian in the Storm expir’d. Wrapt in devouring Flames the Horſeman rag'd, And (purr'd his Steed in equal Flames engag'd : Another pent in his fcorch'd Armour glow'd , While from his Head the melting Helmet flow'd ; Swords by the Lightning's ſubtile Force diſtill’d , And the cold Sheath with running Metal fillid : No human Arm its weak Affiſtance brought, But Heav'n , offended Heav'n , the Battle fought; Whether dark Magic and Chaldean Charms Had fill'd the Skies, and ſet the Gods in Arms ; Or good Aurelius (as I more believe) Deſerv'd whatever Aid the Thunderer could give. I do not remember that M. Dacier, among ſeveral Quotations on this Subject, in the Life of Marcus Aurelius, has taken notice, either of the foremen tioned Figure on the Pillar of Marcus Antoninus, or of the beautiful Paſſage I have quoted out of Claudian. It is pity the Obelisks in Rome had not been charged with ſeveral Parts of the Ægyptian Hiſtories inſtead of Hieroglyphics, which might have given no ſmall Light ROM E. 209 Light to the Antiquities of that Nation, which are now quite ſunk out of ſight in thoſe remoter Ages of the World. Among the triumphal Arches, that of Conſtantineis not only the nobleſt of any in Rome, but in the World. I ſearch'd narrowly into it, ef pecially among thoſe Additions of Sculpture made in the Emperor's own Age, to ſee if I could find any Mark of the Apparition , that is ſaid to have pre ceded the very Victory which gave occaſion to the triumphal Arch. But there are not the leaſt Traces of it to be met with, which is not very ſtrange, if we conſider that the greateſt Part of the Ornaments were taken from Trajan's Arch, and ſet up to the new Conqueror, in no ſmall haſte, by the Senate and People of Rome, who were then moſt of them Heathens. There is however ſomething in the In fcription , which is as old as the Arch itſelf, which ſeems to hint at the Emperor's Viſion. Imp. Caf. Fl. Conftantino maximo P. F. Augufto S. P. 2. R. quod inſtinctu Divinitatis mentis magnitudine cum ex ercitu fuo tam de Tyranno quàm de omni ejus Factione uno tempore juftis Rempublicam ultus eji armis ar cum triumphis inſignem dicavit. To the Emperor Conſtantine, & c. the Senate and People of Romehave dedicated this Triumphal Arch, becauſe, through a Divine Impulſe, with a Greatneſs of Mind , and by force of Arms, he deliver'd the Common wealth at once from the Tyrant and all his Fac tion . There is no Statue of this Emperor at Rome with a Croſs to it , tho' the Eccleſiaſtical Hiſtorians ſay there were many ſuch erected to him. I have ſeen his Medals that were ſtamp'd with it , and a very remarkable one of his Son Conftantius, where he is crown'd by a Victory on : the Reverſe, with this Inſcription , In hoc Signe K 3 Victor 210 ROMM E. Vietor eris. R This triumphal Arch, and ſome other Buildings of the fame Age, ſhow us that Architecture held up its Head after all the other Arts of Deſigning were in a very weak and lan guiſhing Condition, as it was probably the firſt among them that revived . If I was ſurpriſed not to find the Croſs in Conſtantine's Arch, I was as much diſappointed not to ſee the Figure of the Temple of Jeruſalem on that of Titus, where are repreſented the Golden Candleſtick, the Table of Shew. bread , and the River Jordan . Some are of Opinion, that the compoſite Pillars of this Arch were made in imitation of the Pillars of Solomon's Temple, and obſerve that theſe are the moſt ancient of any that are found of that Order. It is almoſt impoffible for a Man to form , in his Imagination, ſuch beautiful and glorious Scenes as are to be met with in feveral of the Roman Churches and Chapels ; for having ſuch a pro digious Stock of ancient Marble within the very City, and at the ſame time ſo many different Quarries in the Bowels of their Country , moſt of their Chapels are laid over with ſuch a rich Va riety of Incruſtations, as cannot poſſibly be found in any other Part of the World . And notwith standing the incredible Sums of Money, which have been already laid out this way, there is ſtill the ſame Work going forward in other Parts of Rome, the laſt ſtill endeavouring to out ſhine thoſe that went before them . "Painting, Sculpture and Architecture, are at preſent far from being in a flouriſhing Condition ; but ' tis thought they may all R O M E. 2II all recover themſelves under the preſent Pontifi cate, if the Wars and Confufions of Italy will give them leave . For as the Pope is himſelf a Maſter of polite Learning, and a great Encou rager of Arts, ſo at Rome any of theſe Arts immediately thrives under the Encouragement of the Prince, and may be fetched up to its Per fection in ten or a dozen Years, which is the Work of an Age or two in other Countries, where they have not fuch excellent Models to form themſelves upon. I ſhall conclude my Obſervations on Rome with a Letter of King Henry the Eighth to Anne of Bullein , tranſcribed out of the famous Manu fcript in the Vatican, which the Biſhop of Sa lisbury aſſures us is written with the King's own Hand . « The Cauſe of my writing at this time is to " hear of your Health and Proſperity , of which " I would be as glad as in a manner of my own, es praying God that it be his Pleaſure to ſend us “ Thortly together, for, I promiſe, I long for it ; " howbeit I truſt it ſhall not be long too, and “ ſeeing my Darling is abſent, I can no leſs do " than ſend her ſome Fleſh , prognoſticating that " hereafter thou muſt have ſome of mine, which , “ if he pleaſe, I wou'd have now. As touching “ your Sifter's Mother, I have conſign'd Walter « Well to write to my Lord Manwring my Mind " therein ; whereby I truſt he ſhall not have Power " to diſſeid her ; for ſurely, whatever is ſaid, it " cannot ſo ſtand with his Honour, but that he “ muſt needs take his natural Daughter in her 66 extreme Neceſſity. No more to you at this K 4 “ time, 212 R O M E. “ time, my own Darling, but that with a Whiſtle 66 I with we were together one Evening ; by the “ Hand of Yours, HENRY. Thefe Letters are always ſhown to an Engliſhman that viſits the Vatican Library. 1

TOWNS Τ Ο W NS Within the Neighbourhood of RO0 M E. Spent three or four Days on Tivoli, Freſcati, Paleſtrina and Albano. In I our way to Tivoli I ſaw the Rivulet of Salforata, formerly call’d Albula , and ſmelt the Stench that ariſes from itsWaters ſome time before I ſaw them . Martial mentions this offenſive Smell in an Epigram of the fourth Book, as he does the Rivulet itſelf in the firſt. Quodficcæ redolet lacus lacune, Crudarum nebulæ quod Albularum . Lib. iv. Epigr. 4i The drying Marfhes ſuch a Stench convey, Such the rank Steams of reeking Albula, Itur ad Herculeæ gelidas quà Tiburis arces, Ganaqueſulphureis Albula fumat aquis. Lib. i . Epigr. 5 . As from high Rometo Tivoli you go, Where Albula's fulphureous Waters flow . K 5 The 214 Towns within the The little Lake that gives riſe to this River, with its floating Iſands, is one of the moſt extraor dinary natural Curioſities about Rome. It lies in the very Flat of Cainpania ; and as it is the Drain of theſe Parts, ʼtis no Wonder that it is fo impregnated with Sulphur. It has at bottom fo thick a Sedi ment of it , that, upon throwing in a Stone, the Water boils for a conſiderable time over the Place which has been ſtirr’d up. At the ſame time are ſeen little Flakes of Scurf riſing up, that are proba bly the Parts which compoſe the Iſlands ; for they often mount of themſelves, tho' the Water is not troubled . I queſtion not but this Lake was formerly much larger than it is at preſent, and that the Banks have grown over it by degrees, in the ſame manner as the Iſlands have been formid on it. Nor is it improba ble but that, in proceſs of time, the whole Surface of it may be crufted over, as the Iſlands inlarge themſelves, and the Banks cloſe in upon them . All about the Lake, where the Ground is dry, we found it to be hollow by the trampling of our Horſes Feet. I could not diſcover the leaſt Traces of the Sibyls Temple and Grove, which ſtood on the Bor ders of this Lake. Tivoli is ſeen at a diſtance lying along the Brow of a Hill. Its Situation has given Horace occaſion to call it Tibur Supinum , as Virgil perhaps for the fame Reaſon intitles it Superbum . The Villa de Medicis with its Water-works, the Caſcade of the Teverone, and the Ruins of the Si byls Temple of which Vignola has made a little Copy at St. Peter's de Montorio) are deſcribed in every Itinerary. I muſt confeſs I was moſt pleaſed with a beautiful Proſpect that none of them have mention'd , which lies at about a Mile diſtance from the Town. It opens on one side into the Roman Cam Neighbourhood of Rome. 215 Campania, where the Eye loſes itſelf on a ſmooth ſpacious Plain . On the other Side is a more broken and interrupted Scene, made up of an infinite Va riety of Inequalities and Shadowings that naturally ariſe from an agreeable Mixture of Hills, Groves and Valleys. But the moſt enlivening Part of all is the River Teverone, which you ſee at about a quar ter of a Mile's diſtance throwing itſelf down a Pre cipice , and falling by ſeveral Caſcades from oneRock to another, ' till it gains the Bottom of the Valley , where the sight of it would be quite loft, did not it fometimes diſcover itſelf thro ' the Breaks and Open ings of the Woods that grow about it . The Roman Painters often work upon this Landskip, and I am apt to believe that Horace had his eye upon it in thoſe two or three beautiful Touches which he has given us of theſe Seats. The Teverone was formerly call’d the Anio. Me nec tam patiens Lacedæmon, Nec tam Lariſſa percuffit campus opimæ , Quàm domus Álbuneæ refonontis, Et præceps Anio, et Tiburni lucus, et uda Mobilibus pomaria rivis. Lib. i . Od. vii . v. 10, Not fair Lariſſa's fruitful Shore, Nor Lacedæmon , charms me more Than high Albunea'sairy Walls, Reſounding with herWater-falls, And Tivoli's delightful Shades , And Anio rolling in Caſcades, That through the fow'ry Meadows glides And all the beauteous Scene divides. I remember Monſieur Dacier explains Mobilibus by Duetilibus, and believes that the Word relates to the 216 Towns within the the Conduits, Pipes, and Canals, that were made to diſtribute the Waters up and down, according to the Pleaſure of the Owner. But any one who ſees the Teverone muſt be of another Opinion, and conclude it to be one of the moſt moveable Rivers in the World, that has its Stream broken by ſuch a multitude of Caſcades, and is ſo often ſhifted out of one Channel into another . After a very turbulent and noiſy Courſe of ſeveral Miles among the Rocksand Moun tains, the Teverone falls into the Valley before-men tion’d , where it recovers its Temper, as it were, by little and little, and after many Turns and Wind ings glides peaceably into the Tiber . In which Senſe weare to underſtand Silius Italicus's Deſcription, to give it its proper Beauty, Sulphureis gelidus quà ferpit leniter undis, Ad genitorem Anio labens fine murmure Tibrim . Here the loud Anio's boiſt'rous Clamours ceaſe, That with ſubmiſſive Murmurs glides in Peace To his old Sire the Tiber AtFreſcati I had the Satisfaction ofſeeing the firſt Sketch of Ver failles in the Walks and Water-works. The Proſpect from it was doubtleſs much more de lightful formerly, when the Campania was ſet thick with Towns, Villas, and Plantations. Cicero's Tuſculum wasat a Place call'd Grotto Ferrate, about two Miles off this Town, tho'moſt of the modern Writers have fix'd it to Freſcati. Nardini ſays, there was found among the Ruins at Grotto Ferrate a Piece of Sculpture, which Cicero himſelf mentions in one of his familiar Epiſtles. In going to Freſcati We had a fair View of Mount Algida. On Neighbourhood of Rome. 217 On our Way to Paleſtrina we ſaw - the Lake Regillus, famous for the Apparition of Caſtor and Pollux, who were here ſeen to give their Horſes Drink after the Battle between the Romans and the Son -in -law of Tarquin . At ſome diſtance from it we had a View of the Lacus Gabinus, that is much larger than the former. We left the Road for about half a Mile to ſee the Sources of a modern Aques duct. It is entertaining to obſerve how the little Springs and Rills, that break out of the sides of the Mountain , are glean'd up, and convey'd thro ' little cover'd Channels into the main Hollow of the Aque duct. It was certainly very lucky for Rome, ſeeing it had occaſion for ſo many Aqueducts, that there chanc'd to be ſuch a Rangeof Mountains within its Neighbourhood. For by this means they could take up their Water from what height they pleaſed , with out the Expence of ſuch an Engine as that of Marli. Thus the Claudian Aqueduct run thirty -eight Miles, and ſunk after the proportion of five Foot and a half every Mile, by the Advantage onlyof a high Source and 'the low Situation of Rome. Palæſtrina ſtands very high, like moſt other Towns in Italy, for the Advantage of the cool Breezes ; for which Reaſon Virgil calls it Altum , and Horace Frigidum Preneſte. Statius calls it Prænefte Sacrum , becauſe of the fa mous Temple of Fortune that ſtood in it . There are ſtill great Pillars of Granite, and other Frag ments of this ancient Temple. But the moſt con ſiderable Remnant of it is a very beautiful Moſaic Pavement, the fineſt I have ever ſeen in Marble. The Parts are ſo well join'd together, that the whole Piece looks like a continu'd Picture. There are in it the Figures of a Rhinoceros, of Elephants, and of ſeveral other Animals, with little Landskips, which look very lively and well painted, tho' they are madeout 218 Towns within the out of the natural Colours and Shadows of the Mar ble . I do not remember ever to have met with an old Roman Moſaic, compoſed of little Pieces ofClay half vitrify'd , and prepar'd at the Glaſs houſes, which the Italians call Smalte. Theſe are much in uſe at preſent, and may be made of what Colour and Figure the Workman pleafes ; which is a mo dern Improvement of the Art, and enables thoſe who are employ'd in it to make much finer Pieces of Moſaic than they did formerly. In our Excurſion to Albano we went as far as Nemi, that takes its Name from the Nemus Diane . The whole Country thereabouts is ſtill over- run with Woods and Thickets. The Lake of Nemi lies in a very deep Bottom , ſo ſurrounded on all fides with Mountains and Groves, that the Surface of it is never ruffled with the leaſt Breath of Wind, which, perhaps, together with the Clearneſs of its Waters, gave it formerly the Name of Diana's Looking-glaſs. Speculumque Dianæ. Virg. Prince Cæfarini has a Palace at Jenſano, very near Nemi in a pleaſant Situation, and ſet off with many beautiful Walks. In our Return from Jen fano to Albano, we paſſed through la Ricca, the Ari ciaof the Ancients, Horace's firſt Stage from Rome to Brundifi. There is nothing at Albano fo remark able as the Proſpect from the Capuchins Garden , which for the Extent and Variety of pleaſing Inci dents is , I think , the moſt delightful one that I ever faw . It takes in the whole Campania, and termi rates in a full View of the Mediterranean . You Nave a Sight at the ſame time of the Alban Lake, which lies juſt by in an Oval Figure of about feven Miles Neighbourhood of Rome. 219 Miles round, and, by reaſon of the continu'd Cir cuit of high Mountains that incompaſs it , looks like the Area of ſome vaft Amphitheatre. This , toge ther with the ſeveral green Hills and naked Rocks, within the Neighbourhood, makes the moft agreea ble Confuſion imaginable. Albano keeps up its Cre dit ſtill for Wine , which perhaps would be as good as it was anciently, did they preſerve it to as great an Age ; but as for Olives, there are now very few here, tho' they are in great Plenty at Tivoli ; -Albani pretiofa ſenectus. Juv. Sat. xiii . v. 214. Cras bibet Albanis aliquid de montibus aut de Setinis, cujus patriamtitulumque Senectus Delevit multa veteris fuligineteftæ . Id. Sat. 5. V. 332 Perhaps to -morrow he may change his Wine, And drink old ſparkling Alban, orSetine ; Whofe Title and whoſe Age with Mould o’ergrown, The good old Cask for ever keeps unknown . Bowles. Palladie ſeu collibus uteris Albæ . Mart. Lib. v. Epigr. 1 . Whether the Hills of Alba you prefer, Whoſe riſing Tops the fruitful Olive bear. Albane Olive. Id. Lib. ix. Epigr. 16. Th’ Albanian Olives. The Places mention'd in this Chapter were all of them formerly the cool Retirements of the Romans, where they uſed to hide themſelves among the Woods 220 Towns within the Woods and Mountains, during the exceſſive Heats of their Summer ; as Baie was the general Winter Rendezvous. Jam terras volucremque polum fuga veris Aquoſi Laxat, et Icariis cælum latratibus urit. Arduajam denfæ rarefcunt meenia Romæ : Hos Preneſte ſacrum , nemus hos glaciale Diana, Algidus aut horrens, aut Tufcula protegit Umbra, Tiburis hi lucos, Anienaque frigora captant. Sil. iv. 1 . Albanos quoque Tuſculoſque colles Et quodcunque jacet ſub urbe frigus: Fidenas veteres, breveſque Rubras, Et quod Virgineo cruoregaudet Anna pomiferum nemus Perenne. Mart. Lib. 4. Epigr. 64. All Thun the raging Dog-Star'sſultry Heat, And fromthe half-unpeopledTownretreat : Some hid in Nemi's gloomy Foreſts lie, To Paleſtrina fome for Shelter fly ; Others to catch the Breeze of breathing Air, To Tufculumor Algido repair ; Or in moiſt Tivoli's Retirements find A cooling Shade, and a refreſhing Wind. On the contrary , at preſent, Rome is never fuller of Nobility than in Summer-time: for theCountry Towns are ſo infeſted with unwholſom Vapours, that they dare not truſt themſelves in them while the Heats laſt. There is no queſtion but the Air of the Campania would be now as healthful as it was for merly, were there as many Fires burning in it , and as many Inhabitants to manure the Soil. Leaving Rome about the latter end of 0Etober, in my way to Sienna, Neighbourhood of Rome. 221 Sienna, I lay the firſt Night at a little Village in the Territories of the ancient Veii. Hec tum nomina erant, nuncfuntfine nomine Campi. Virg. Æn. vi . v. 776. Theſe then wereNames, nowFields without a Name. The Ruins of their Capital City are at preſent fo far loft, that the Geographers are not able to deter mine exactly the Place where they once ſtood : So litterally is that noble Prophecy of Lucan fulfill’d, of this and other places of Latium . -Gentes Mars ifte futuras Obruet, et populos ævivenientis in orbem Erepto natale feret ; tunc omne Latinum Fabula nomen erit : Gabios, Peioſque, Coramque Pulvere vix tecta poterunt monftrare ruina , Albanoſque lares, Laurentinoſque penates, Rus vacuum, quod non habitet nifi noctecoasta • Lib. vii. v. 389. Invitus Succeeding Nations by the Sword ſhall die, And ſwallow'd up in dark Oblivion lie ; Almighty Latium, with her Cities crown'd, Shall like an antiquated Fable ſound ; The Veïan and the Gabian Tow'rs ſhall fall, And one promiſcuous Ruin cover all ; Nor, after length of Years, a Stone betray The Place where once the very Ruins lay : High Alba'sWalls and the Lavinian Strand, ( Alonely Deſert, and an empty Land) Shall ſcarce afford , for needful Hours of Reft, A ſingle Houſe to their benighted Gueſt. We ! 222 Towns within the We here ſaw the Lake Bacca, that gives Riſe to the Cremera, on whoſe Banks the Fabiiwere ſlain. Tercentum numerabat avos, quos turbine Martis Abftulit una Dies, cism fors non æqua labori Patricio Cremera maculavit fanguine ripas. Sil. Ital. Lib. i. Fabius a num'rous Anceſtry could tell, Three hundred Heroes that in Battle fell, Near the fam’d Cremera's difaſt'rous Flood, That ran polluted with Patrician Blood . We ſaw afterwards, in the Progreſs of ourVoyage, the Lakes of Vico and Bolſena. The laft is reckond one and twenty Miles in Circuit, and is plentifully ſtock'd with Fith and Fowl. There are in it a couple of Iands, that are perhaps the two floating Iſles mentioned by Pliny, with that improbable cumſtance of their appearing ſomething like a Circle, and ſometimes like a Triangle, but never like Quadrangle. It is eaſy enough to conceive how they might become fix'd, tho'they once floated ; and it is not very credible, that the Naturalift could be deceived in his Account of a Place that lay , as it were , in the Neighbourhood of Rome. At the end of this Lake ſtands Montefiaſcone, the Habitation of Virgil's Æqui Faliſci, Æn. 7. and on the side of it the Town of the Volfinians, now call’d Bolſena. Aut pofitis nemorofa inter juga Volfiniis. Juv. Sat. iji . v. 191 . Volfinium ſtood Cover'd with Mountains, and inclos'd with Wood. I ſaw Neighbourhood of Rome. 223 I ſaw in the Churchyard of Bolfena an antique Funeral Monument ( of that kind which they called a Sarcophagus) very intire, and, what is particular, engraven on all Sides with a curious Repreſentation of a Bacchanal. Had the Inhabitants obſerved a couple of lewd Figures at one End of it , they would not have thought it a proper Ornament for the Place where it now ſtands. After having travellid hence to Aquapendente, that ſtands in a wonderful pleaſant Situation , we came to the little Brook which ſepa rates the Pope’s Dominions from the Great Duke's. The Frontier Caſtle of Radicofani is ſeated on the higheſt Mountain in the Country, and is as well fortify'd as the Situation of the place will permit. We here found the natural Face of the Country quite chang'd from what we had been entertain'd with in the Pope's Dominions. For inſtead of the many beautiful Scenes of green Mountains and fruit ful Valleys, that we had been preſented with forſome Days before , we ſaw now nothing but a wild naked Proſpect of Rocks and Hills, worn out on all Sides with Gutters and Channels, and not a Tree or Shrub to be met with in a vaſt Circuit of ſeveral Miles. This favage Proſpect put me in mind of the Italian Proverb, that The Pope has the Fleſh, and the Great Duke the Bones of Italy. Among a large Extent of theſe barren Mountains I ſaw but a ſingle Spot that was cultivated, on which there ftood a Convent. SIEN S I E N NA, LE GHORNE, PI S ' A. IENNA ftands high, and is adorn'd with a great many Towersof Brick , S which in the Time of the Common wealth were erected to ſuch of the Members as had done any conſide rable Service to their Country. Theſe Towers gave us a Sight of the Town a great while before weenter'd it . There is nothing in this City ſo extraordinary as the Cathedral, which a Man may view with Pleaſure after he has ſeen St. Peter's, tho' it is quite of another Make, and can only be look'd upon as one of the Maſter- pieces of Gothic Architecture. When a Man ſees the prodigious Pains and Expence that our Forefathers have been at in theſe barbarous Buildings, one cannot but fancy to himſelf what Miracles of Architecture they would have left us, had they only been inſtructed in the right way ; for when the Devotion of thoſe Ages was much warmer than it is at preſent, and the Riches of the People much more at the Diſpoſal of the Prieſts, there was ſo much Money conſum'd on theſe Gothic Cathe Sienna, Leghorne, Pifa. 225 Cathedrals, as would have finiſh'd a greater Variety of noble Buildings, than have been raiſed either be fore or ſince that time. One would wonder to ſee the vaſt Labour that has been laid out on this ſingle Cathedral. The very Spouts are loaden with Ornaments ; the Windows are form'd like ſo many Scenes of Perſpective, with a multitude of little Pillars retiring one behind ano ther ; the great Columns are finely engraven with Fruits and Foliage that run twiſting about them from the very Top to the Bottom ; the whole Body of the Church is checquer'd with different Lays of white and black Marble, the Pavement curiouſly cut out in Deſigns and Scripture- Stories, and the Front cover'd with ſuch a Variety of Figures, and over- run with ſo many little Mazes and Labyrinths of Sculpture, that nothing in the World can make a prettier Shew to thoſe, who prefer falſe Beauties, and affected Ornaments, to aNoble and Majeſtic Simplicity. Over-againſt this Church ſtands a large Hoſpital, erected by a Shoe -maker, who has been Beatify'd , tho'never Sainted. There ſtands a Figure of him ſuperſcrib'd, Sutor ultra Crepidam . A Shoemaker beyond his Laft. I ſhall ſpeak nothing of the Extent of this City, the Cleanlineſs of its Streets, nor the Beauty of its Piazza, which ſo many Travellers have deſcrib'd . As this is the laſt Re public that fell under the Subjection of the Duke of Florence, ſo it is ſtill ſuppoſed to retain many Hankerings after its ancient Liberty. For this Rea fon, when the Keys and Pageants of the Duke's Towns and Governments pats in Proceſſion before him, on St. John's Baptiſt's Day, I was told that Sienna comes in the Rear of his Dominions, and is pufh'd forward by thoſe that follow , to ſhow the Reluctancy it hasto appear in ſuch a Solemnity. I ſhall 226 Sienna, Leghorne, Pifa. fhall ſay nothing of the many groſs and abfurd Traditions of St. Catharine of Sienna , who is the great Saint of this place. I think there is as much Pleaſure in hearing a Man tell his Dreams, as in reading Accounts of this Nature. A Traveller, that thinks them worth his Obſervation , may fill a Book with them at every great Town in Italy. From Sienna we went forward to Leghorne, where the two Ports, the Bagnio, and Donatelli's Statue of the Great Duke, amidſt the four Slaves chain'd to his Pedeſtal, are very noble Sights. The Square is one of the largeſt, and will be one of the moſt beautiful in Italy , when this Statue is erected in it, and a Town -houſe built at one End of it to front the Church that ſtands at the other. They are at a continual Expence to cleanſe the Ports, and keep ' em from being chok'd up, which they do by the help of ſeveral Engines that are always at work, and employ many of the Great Duke's Slaves. What ever part of the Harbour they ſcoop in , it has an Influence on all the reſt ; for the Sea immediately works the whole Bottom to a Level. They draw a double Advantage from the Dirt that is taken up, as it clears the Port, and at the ſame time dries up ſeveral Marſhes about the Town, where they lay it from time to time. One can ſcarce imagine how great Profits the Duke of Tuſcany receives from this ſingle Place, which are not generally thought fo conſiderable, becauſe it pafles for a free Port . But it is very well known how the Great Duke, on a late occaſion , notwithſtanding the Privileges of the Mer chants , drew no ſmall Sums of Money out of them ; tho’ ſtill in reſpect of the exorbitant Dues that are paid at moſt other Ports, it deſervedly retains the Name of Free. It brings into his Dominions a great Increaſe of People from all other Nations. They Sienna, Leghorne, Piſa,. 227 They reckon in it near ten thouſand Jews, many of them very Rich, and ſo great Traffickers, that our Engliſh Factors complain theyhave moft of our Country Trade in their Hands. 'Tis true the Stran. gers pay little or no Taxes directly ; but outof every thing they buy there goes a large Gabel to the Government. The very Ice-Merchant at Leghorne pays above a thouſand Pound Sterling annually for his Privilege, and the Tobacco-Merchant ten thou fand. The Ground is ſold by the Great Duke at a very high Price, and Houſes are every Day riſing on it . All the Commodities that go up into the Coun try , of which there are great Quantities, are clogg'd with Impofitions as ſoon as they leave Leghorne. All the Wines, Oils, and Silks, that come down from the fruitful Valleys of Pifa, Florence, and other Parts of Tuſcany, muſt make their waythro' ſeveral Duties and Taxes before they can reach the Port. The Canal that runs from the Sea into the Arno gives a convenient Carriage to all Goods that are to be ſhipp'd off, which does not a little enrich the Owners and in proportion as private Men grow wealthy , their Legacies, Law- Suits, Daughters Por tions , & c. increale, in all which the Great Duke comes in for a conſiderable Share. The Lucqueſe, who traffic at this Port, are ſaid to bring in a great deal into the Duke's Coffers. Another Advan tage, which may be of great uſe to him , is, that at five or fix Days warning he might find Credit in this Town for very large Sums of Money, which no other Prince in Italy can pretend to. I need not take notice of the Reputation that this Port gives him among foreign Princes; but there is one Benefit ariſing from it , which, tho' never thrown into the Account, is doubtleſs very confiderable. It is well known how the Pifans and Florentines long regretted the 228 Sienna, Leghorne, Piſa. the Loſs of their ancient Liberty, and their Sub jection to a Family that ſome of them thought themſelves equal to, in theflouriſhing Timesof their Commonwealths. The Town of Leghorne has accidentally done what the greateſt Fetch of Poli tics would have found difficult to have brought about ; for it has almoſt unpeopled Piſa, if we com pare it with what it was formerly ; and every Day leflens the Number of the Inhabitants of Florence. This does not only weaken thoſe Places, but at the ſame time turns many of their buſieſt Spirits, from their old Notions of Honour and Liberty, to the Thoughts of Traffic and Merchandiſe : And as Men engag'd in a Road of Thriving are no Friends to Changes and Revolutions, they are at preſent worn into a Habit of Subjection, and puſh all their Purſuits another way. It is no wonder therefore that the Great Duke has fuch Apprehenſions of the Pope's making Civita Vecchia a Free Port, which may in time prove ſo very prejudicial to Leghorne. It would be thought an improbable Story, thould I ſet down the ſeveral Methods that are commonly reported to have been made uſe of, during the laſt Pontificate, to put a ſtop to this Delign. The Great Duke's Money was ſo well beſtow'd in the Conclave, that ſeveral of the Cardinals diſſuaded the Pope from the Undertaking, and at laſt turn'd all his Thoughts upon the little Port which he made at Antium , near Nettuno. The chief Workmen, that were to have convey'd the Water to Civita Vecchia, were bought off ; and when a poor Capu. chin, that was thought Proof againſt all Bribes, had undertaken to carry on the Work, he died a little after he had enter'd upon it. The preſent Pope however, who is very well acquainted with the Secret Hiſtory, and the Weakneſs of his Predeceſſor, ſeems reſolved Sienna, Leghorne, Piſa. 229 reſolved to bring the Project to its Perfection . He has already been at vaſt Charges in finiſhing the Aque duct, and hadſome Hopes that, if the War fhould drive our Engliſh Merchants from Sicily and Naples, they would ſettle here. His Holineſs has told fome Engliſh Gentlemen , that thoſe of our Nation ſhould have the greateſt Privileges of any but the Subjects of the Church. One of our Countrymen , who makes a good Figure at Rome, told me, the Pope has this Deſign extremely at his Heart, but that he fears the Engliſh will ſuffer nothing like a Reſident or Conſul in his Dominions, tho ' at the ſame time he hoped the Buſineſs might aswell be tranſacted by one that had no public Character . This Gentleman has ſo bufied himſelf in the Affair, that he has of fended the French and Spaniſh Cardinals, inſomuch that Cardinal Janſon refuſed to ſee him , when he would have made his Apology for what he had ſaid to the Pope on this Subject. There is one great Ob jection to Civita Vecchia, that the Air of the Place is not wholſom ; but this, they fay, proceeds from want of Inhabitants, the Air of Leghorne having been worſe than this before the Town was well peopled. The great Profits , which have accrued to the Duke of Florence from his Free Port, have ſet ſeveral of the States of Italy on the ſame Project. The moſt likely to ſucceed in it would be the Genoefe, who lie more convenient than the Venetians, and have a more inviting Form of Government, than that of the Church, or that of Florence. But as the Port of Genoa is ſo very ill guarded againſt Storms, that no Privileges can tempt the Merchants from Leg horne into it , ſo dare not the Genoefa make any other of their Ports Free, left it ſhould draw to it moſt of their Commerce and Inhabitants, and by conſe. quence ruin their chief City . L From 230 Sienna, Leghorne, Piſa. FromLeghorne I went to Piſa, where there is ſtill the Shell of a great City, tho' not half furniſh'd with Inhabitants. The great Church , Baptiſtery , and leaning Tower, are very well worth ſeeing, and are built after the ſame Fancy with the Cathedral of Sienna. Half a Day's Journey more brought me into the Republic of Lucca. 1 THE 事 THE R E P U B L I C OF LUCGA. T is very pleaſant to ſee how the finall . Territories of this little Republic are cultivated to the beſt Advantage, ſo that one cannot find the leaſt Spot of Ground, that is not made to contri. bute its utmoſt to the Owner. In all the Inhabitants there appears an Air of Chearfulneſs and Plenty, not often to be met with in thoſe of the Countries which lie about 'em. There is but one Gate for Strangers to enter at, that it may be known what Numbers of them are in the Town. Over it is written in Letters of Gold, Libertas. This Republic is ſhut up in the Great Duke's Dominions, who at preſent is very much incenſed againſt it , and ſeems to threaten it with the Fate of Florence, Pifa , and Sienna. The Occaſion as follows. L a The 232 2 The Republic of Lucca. The Lucqueſe plead Preſcription for Hunting in one of the Duke's Foreſts, that lies their Fron riers, which about two Years ſince was ſtrictly for bidden them , the Prince intending to preſerve the Game for his own Pleaſure. Two or three Sporti. men of the Republic, who had the Hardinels to offend againſt the Prohibition , were ſeized, and kept in a neighbouring Priſon . Their Countrymen, to the number of Threeſcore, attack'd the place where they were kept in Cuſtody, and reſcued them . The Great Duke redemands his Priſoners, and , as a fur ther Satisfaction , would have the Governor of the Town, where the threeſcore Aſſailants had com bined together, deliver'd into his Hands; but re ceiving only Excuſes, he reſolved to do himſelf Juſtice. Accordingly he order'd all the Lucqueſe to be ſeiz'd that were found on a Market-Day, in one of his Frontier Towns. Theſe amounted to Four ſcore, among whom were Perſons of ſome Conſe quence in the Republic. They are now in Priſon at Florence , and , as it is ſaid, treated hardly enough ; for there are fifteen of the Number dead within leſs than two Years. The King of Spain , who is Pro tector of the Commonwealth, received Information from the Great Duke of what had paſs’d, who ap prov'd of his Proceedings, and order'd the Lucqueſe, by his Governor of Milan, to give a proper Satis faction . The Republic, thinking themſelves ill uſed by their Protector, as they ſay at Florence, have ſent to Prince Eugene to deſire the Emperor's Pro tection, with an offer of Winter- Quarters, as it is faid, for four Thouſand Germans. The Great Duke riſes on them in his Demands, and will not be ſatis fied with leſs than a hundred Thouſand Crowns, and a folemn Embaſſy to beg Pardon for the paſt, and promiſe Amendment for the future. upon Thus ſtands The Republic of Lucca. 233 ſtands the Affair at preſent , that may end in the Ruin of the Commonwealth, if the French ſucceed in Italy. It is pleaſant however to hear the Diſcourſe of the Common People of Lucca, who are firmly perſuaded that one Lucqueſe can beat five Florentines, who are grown low -ſpirited, as they pretend, by the Great Duke's Oppreſſions, and have nothing worth fighting for. They ſay , they can bring into the Field twenty or Thirty thouſand fighting Men, all ready to facrifice their Lives for their Liberty. Theyhave Quantity of Arms and Ammunition, but few Horſe. It muſt be own’d theſe People are more happy, at leaſt in Imagination, than the reſt of their Neighbours, becauſe they think themſelves fo ; tho' ſuch a Chimerical Happineſs is not peculiar to Re publicans, for we find the Subjects of the moſt ab folute Prince in Europe are as proud of their Monarch as the Lucqueſe of being ſubject to none. Should the French Affairs proſper in Italy, it is poſſible the Great Duke may bargain for the Republic of Lucca, by the help of his great Treaſures, as his Predeceffors did formerly with the Emperor for that of Sienna . The Great Dukes have never yet at tempted any thing on Lucca, as not only fearing the Arms of their Protector, but becauſe they are well aſſured, that, ſhould the Lucqueſe be reduced to the laſt Extremity, they would rather throw them ſelves under the Government of the Genoeſe, or ſome ſtronger Neighbour, than ſubmit to a State for which they have ſo great an Averſion . And the Florentines are very ſenſible, that it is much better having a weak State within their Dominons, than the Branch of one as ſtrong as themſelves.. But ſhould ſo formidable a Power, as that of the French King, ſupport them in their Attempts, there is no Government in Italy that would dare to interpoſe. L 3 This 234 The Republic of Lucca. This Republic , for the Extent of its Dominions, is eſteemed the richeſt and beſt peopled State of Italy. The whole Adminiſtration of the Government paſſes into different Hands at the Endof every two Months, which is the greateſt Security imaginable to their Liberty , and wonderfully contributes to the quick Diſpatch of all public Affairs : But in any Exigence of State, like that they are now preſſed with , it certainly asks a much longer time to con duct any Deſign , for the Good of the Common wealth, to its Maturity and Perfection . FLO MON FLORENCE. HAD the good Luck to be at Florence when there was an Opera acted, I which was the eighth I had ſeen in Italy. I could not but ſmile to read the ſolemn Proteſtation of the Poet in the firſt Page, where he declares that he believes neither in the Fates, Deities, or Deſtinies ; and that, if he has made uſe of the Words, it is purely out of Poetical Liberty, and not from his real Sentiments, for that in all theſe Parti culars he believes as the Holy Mother Church be . lieves and commands. PROTEST A. Le voci Faro, Deità, Deſtino, e fimili, che per entro queſto Drama trovarai, ſon meſſe per iſcherzo poetico, e non per Sentimento vero, credendoſempre en tutto quello, che crede, e comanda Santa Madre chieſa . There are ſome beautiful Palaces in Florence ; and as Tuſcan Pillars and Ruſtic Work owe their Origi nal to this Country, the Architects always take care to give them a Place in the great Edifices that are raiſed in Tuſcany. The Duke's new Palace is a very noble Pile, built after this manner, which makes it look extremely Solid and Majeſtic. It is not un L 4 like 236 FLORENCE. like that of Luxemburg at Paris, which was built by Mary of Medicis, and for that reaſon perhaps the Workmen fell into the Tuſcan Humour. I found in the Court of this Palace what I could not meet with any where in Rome : I mean an antique Sta tue of Hercules lifting up Anteus from the Earth , which I have already had occaſion to ſpeak of. It was found in Rome, and brought hither under the Reign of Leo the Tenth. There are abundance of Pictures in the ſeveral Apartments, by the Hands of the greatest Mafters. But ' tis the famous Gallery of the Old Palace, where are perhaps the nobleſt Collections of Cu rioſities to be met with in any Part of the whole World. The Gallery itſelf is made in the Shape of an L, according to Mr. Laſſel; but, if it muſt needs be like a Letter, it reſembles the Greek 11 moft. It is adorned'with admirable Pieces of Sculp ture, as well modern as ancient. Of the laſt Sort I ſhall mention those that are rareft eitlier for the T'erſon they repreſent, or the Beauty of the Sculp ture. Among the Bufts of the Emperors and Em . preſes, there are theſe that follow, which are all very ſcarce, and ſome of them almoſt fingular in their kind : Agrippa, Caligula , Otho, Nerva, i lius, Verus, Pertinax, Geta, Didius Julianus, Albi nus extremely well wrought, and , what is ſeldom ſeen in Alabaſter, Gordianus, Africanus the elder, Eliogàbalus, Galien the elder, and the younger Pu . pienus. I have put Agrippa among the Emperors, becauſe he is generally rang’d fo in Sets ofMedals, as fome that follow. among the Empreſſes have no other right to the Company they are joined with : Domitia, Agrippina Wife of Germanicus, Antonia , Matidia, Plotina, Mallia Scantilla, falſy in fcrib'd under her Buft Julia Severi, Aquilia Severa, Julia FLORENCE. 237 Julia Mæfa. I have generally obſerv'd at Rome which is the great Magazine of theſe Antiquities, that the fame Heads which are rare in Medals, are alſo rare in Marble, and indeed one may commonly aſſign the fame Reaſon for both, which was the Shortneſs of the Emperor's Reigns, that did not give the Workmen time to make many of their Figures ; and as the Shortnefs of their Reigns was generally occaſioned by the Advancement of a Rival, it is no wonder that nobody worked on the Figure of a Deceaſed Emperor, when his Enemy was in the Throne. This Obſervation however does not always hold . An Agrippa or Caligula, for Example, is a common Coin , but a very extraordinary Buft; and a Tiberius a rare Coin , but a common Buít ; which one would the more wonder at, if we conſider the Indignities that were offer'd to this Emperor's Sta tues after his Death. The Tiberius in Tiberim is a known Inſtance. Among the Buſts of ſuch Emperors as are com mon enough, there are ſeveral in the Gallery that deſerve to be taken notice of for the Excellence of the Sculpture ; as thoſe of Auguſtus, Vefpafian, Adrian , Marcus Aurelius, Lucius Veras, Septimius Severus , Caracalla , Geta. There is in the ſame Gallery a beautiful Buft of Alexander the Great, caſting up his Face to Heaven, with a noble Air of Grief or Diſcontentedneſs in his Looks. I have feen two or three antique Buſts of Alexander in the ſame Air and Poſture, and am ape to think the Sculptor had in his Thoughts the Conqueror's weeping for new Worlds, or ſome other the like Circumſtance of his Hiftory. There is als ) in Pur phyry the Head of a Fawn , and of the God Pan. Among the intire Figures I took particular notice of a Veſtal Virgin, with the Holy Fire burning belere her, L 5 This 238 FLORENCE. This Statue, I think, may decide that notable Con troverſy among the Antiquaries, whether the Ve ftals, after having receiv'd the Tonſure, ever fuffer'd their Hair to come agnin; for it is here full grown , and gather'd under the Veil. The brazen Figure of the Conſul, with the Ring on his Finger, re . minded me of Juvenal's majoris pondera Gemme. There is another Statue in Braſs, ſuppoſed to be of Apollo, with this modern Inſcription on the Pedeſtal, which I muſt confeſs I don't know what to make of, Ut potui huc veni muſis et fratre relicto. I ſaw in the ſame Gallery the famous Figure of the wild Boar, the Gladiator, theNarciſſus, the Cupid and Pſyche, the Flora, with ſome modern Statues that ſeveral others have deſcribed . Among the antique Figures there is a fine one of Morpheus in Touch ftone. I have always obſerved, that this God is re preſented by the ancientStatuaries under the Figure of a Boy aſleep, with a Bundle of Poppy in his Hand. I at firft took it for a Cupid, ' till I had taken notice that it had neither Bow nor Quiver. I ſuppoſe Dr, Liſter has been guilty of the ſameMiſtake, in the Reflexions he makes on what he calls the ſleep ing Cupid with Poppy in his Hands. Qualia namque Corpora nudorum Tabulâ pinguntur Amorum , Talis erat ; fed nè faciat diſcrimina cultus, Aut huic adde leves aut illis demepharetras. Ovid. Metam. Lib. 10.V. 515. Such are the Cupids that in Paint we view ; But that the Likeneſs may be nicely true, À loaden Quiver to his Shoulders ty, Or bid the Cupids lay their Quivers by. Tis FLORENCE. 239 ' Tis probable they choſe to repreſent the God of Sleep under the Figure of a Boy, contrary to all our modern Deſigners, becauſe it is that Age, which has its Repoſe the leaſt broken by Cares and Anxieties. Statius, in his celebrated Invoca tion of Sleep, addreſſes himſelf to him under the fame Figure. Crimine quo merui, juvenis placidiffime Divúm , Quove errore mifer, donis ut folus egerem , Somne, tuis ? tacet omne pecus, volucreſque feræque,& c. Sylv. 4. Lib. 5. V, 1 . Tell me, thou beſt of Gods, thou gentle Youth, Tell memy fad Offence ; that only I , While huſh'd at Eaſe thy drouſy Subjects lie , In the dead Silence of the Night complain, Nor taſte the Bleſſings of thy peaceful Reign. I never ſaw any Figure of Sleep that was not of black Marble, which has probably ſome Relation to the Night, that is the proper Seaſon for Reſt. I ſhould not have made this Remark , but that I remember to have read in one of the ancient Au thors, that the Nile is generally repreſented in Stone of this colour, becauſe it Aows from the Country of the Æthiopians; which ſhows us that Statuaries had ſometimes an Eye to the Perſon they were to repreſent, in the Choice they made of their Marble. There are ſtill at Rome ſome of theſe black Statues of the Nile which are cut in a kind of Touchſtone. Uſque coloratis amnis devexus ab Indis. Virg. Geor. 4. V. 293 . Rolling its Tide from Ethiopian Lands. At 240 FLORENCE. At one End of the Gallery ſtand two antique marble Pillars, curiouſly wrought with the Figures of the old Roman Arms and Inſtruments of War. After a full ſurvey of the Gallery, we were led into four or five Chambers of Curioſities that ſtand on the side of it. The firſt was a Cabinet of Antiqui ties, made up chiefly of Idols, Taliſmans, Lamps, and Hierozlyphics. I ſaw nothing in it that I was not before acquainted with , except the four follow ing Figures in Braſs. 1. A little Image of Juno Siſpita, or Sofpita, which perhaps is not to be met with any where elſe but on Medals. She is clothed in a Goat's Skin, the Horns ſticking out above her Head. The Right Arm is broken that probably ſupported a Shield, and the left a little defac'd, tho' one may fee it held ſomething in its Graſp formerly . The Feet are bare. I remember Tilly's Deſcription of this Goddeſs in the following Words. Illam noftram Sofpitam , quam tu nunquam nein Somniis vides, nifi cum pelle Capriná, cum hafiâ , cum ſcutulo, cum calceclis repandis.-Our Goddeſs Sofpita, whom you never ſee, ev’n in a Dream , without a Goat skin, a Spear, a little Shield , and broad Sandals. II. An FLORENCE. 241 PITAL A Medal of Juno Si ſpita. Vid . Fuly. Urfin . in Familia Thoriâ ONA Porciliâ . This is Reverſe of Anton, Pius, II. An antique Model of the famous Laocoon and his two Sons, that ſtands in the Belvidera at Rome. This is the more remarkable, as it is intire in thoſe Parts where the Statue is maim'd. It was by the help of this Model that Bandinelli finiſhed his admi rable Copy of the Laocoon , which ſtands at one End of this Gallery. III. An Apollo or Amphion. I took notice of this little Figure for the Singularity of the Inſtrument, which I never before faw in ancient Sculpture. It is not unlike a Violin , and play'd on after the ſame I doubt however whether this Figure be not of a later Date than the reſt, by the Meanneſs of the Workmanſhip. IV . A Corona Radialis with only eight Spikes to it. Every one knows the uſual Number was twelve, fome fay in alluſion to the signs of the Zodiac, and others to the Labours of Hercules. manner. -In 242 FLORENCE. -Ingenti mole Latinus Quadrijugo vehitur curru ; cui tempora circùm Aurati bis Sex Radiifulgentiacingunt, Solis avi Specimen Virg. Æn. 12. V, 165 , Four Steeds the Chariot of Latinus bear : Twelve golden Beams around his Temples play, Tomark his Lineage from the God of Day. Dryden. The two next Chambers are made up of ſeveral artificial Curioſities in Ivory, Amber, Cryſtal, Marble, and precious Stones, which all Voyage Writers are full of. In the Chamber that is ſhown laſt ſtands the celebrated Venus of Medicis. The Statue feems much leſs than the Life, as being perfectly naked , and in Company with others of a larger Make : It is notwithſtanding as big as the or dinary ſize of a Woman, as I concluded from the Meaſure of her Wriſt ; for from the Bigneſs of any one Part it is eaſy to gueſs at all the reſt, in a Figure of ſuch nice Proportions. The Softneſs of the Fleſh , the Delicacy of the Shape, Air, and Pofture, and the Correctneſs ofDeſign in this Statue are inexpreſſible. I have ſeveral Reaſons to believe that the Name of the Sculptor onthe Pedeſtal is not ſo old as the Statue. This Figure of Venus put me in mind of a Speech The makes in one of the Greek Epigrams. Γυμν ήν οίδε Πάρις με και 'Αγχίσης και " Αδωνις , Τις τρώς οίδα μόνες: Πραξιτέλης δε πόθεν; Anchiſes, Paris, and Adonis too , Have ſeen menaked and expos’d to view ; All theſe I frankly own without denying ; But where has this Praxiteles been prying ? There f FLORENGE. 243 There is another Venus in the ſame Circle , that would make a good Figure any where elſe. There are among the old Roman Statues ſeveral of Venus in different Poſtures and Habits, as there are many par ticular Figures of her made after the fame Deſign. I fancy it is not hard to find among them fome that were made after the three Statues of this God deſs, which Pliny mentions. In the ſame Chamber is the Roman Slave whetting his Knife and lift'ning, which from the Shoulders upward is incomparable. The two Wreſtlers are in the ſame Room . I ob ſerved here likewiſe a very curious Buft of Annius Verus, the young Son of Marcus Aurelius, who dy'd at nine Yearsof Age. I have ſeen ſeveral other Buſts of him at Rome, tho' his Medals are exceed ing rare . The Great Duke has ordered a large Chamber to be fitted up for old Inſcriptions, Urns, Monuments, and the like Sets of Antiquities. I was fhown ſeve ral of them which are not yet put up. the two famous Inſcriptions thatgive ſo great a light to the Hiſtories of Appius, who made the Highway, and of Fabius the Dictator ; they contain a ſhort Account of the Honours they pafled through , and the Actions they performed. I ſaw too the Buſts of Tranquillina, Mother to Gordianus Pius, and of Quintus Herennius, Son to Trajan Decius, which are extremely valuable for their Rarity ; and a beau tiful old Figure made after the celebrated Herma phrodite in the Villa Borgheſe. I ſaw nothing that has not been obſerved by ſeveral others in the Ar gentaria, the Tabernacle of St. Lawrence's Chapel, and the Chamber of Painters. The Chapel of St. Lawrence will be perhaps the moſt coſtly Piece of Work on the Face of the Earth, when compleated ; but it advances ſo very ſlowly, that ' tis not impoſti ble There are 244 FLORENCE. ble but the Family of Medicis may be extinct before their Burial- Place is finiſh’d. The Great Duke has liv'd many Years feparate from the Dutcheſs, who is at preſent in the Court of France, and intends there to end her Days. The Car dinal his Brother is old and infirm , and could never be induced to reſign his Purple for the uncertain Proſpect of giving an Heir to the Dukedom of Tuſcany. The great Prince has been married ſeveral Years without any Children ; and notwithſtanding all the Precautions in the World were taken for the Mar riage of the Prince his younger Brother (asthe find ing out a Lady for him who was in the Vigour and Flower of her Age, and had given Marks of her Fruitfulneſs by a former Husband) they have all hi therto proved unſucceſsful. There is a Branch of the Family of Medicis in Naples : The Head of it has been own'd as a Kinſman by the Great Duke, and ' tis thought will ſucceed to his Dominions, in caſe the Princes his Sons die Childleſs ; though ' tis not impoffible but , in ſuch a Conjuncture, the Commonwealths, that are thrown under the Great Dutchy, may make ſome Efforts towards the Re covery of their ancient Liberty. I was in the Library of Manuſcripts belonging to St. Laurence, of which there is a Printed Catalogue. I look'd into the Virgil, which diſputes its Antiquity with that of the Vatican. It wants the Ille ego qui quondam , & c. and the twenty two Lines in the le cond Æneid, beginning at Jamque adeò fuper unus eram.---- I muſt confeſs I always thought this Pal fage left out with a great deal of Judgment by Tucca and Varius, as it ſeems to contradičt a Part in the fixth Aineid , and repreſents the Hero in a Paſſion , that is , at leaſt, not at all becoming the Greatneſs of his Character. Beſides, I think the Apparition of FLORENCE. 245 of Venus comes in very properly to draw him away from the Sight of Priam's Murder ; for without ſuch a Machine to take him off, I can't ſee how the Hero could , with Honour, leave Neoptolemus tri umphant, and Priam unrevenged. But ſince Virgil's Friends thought fit to let drop this Incident of He len, I wonder they would not blot out, or alter a Line in Venus's Speech, that has a relation to the Rencounter, and comes in improperly without it ; Non tibi Tyndaride facies inviſa Lacæne, Culpatufve Paris Æn. 2. v. 6012 Not Helen's Face, nor Paris was in Fault. Dryden. Florence for modern Statues I think excels even Rome ; but theſe I ſhall paſs over in Silence, that I may not tranſcribe out of others. The Way from Florence to Bolonia runs over fe veral Ranges of Mountains, and is the worſt Road , I believe, of any over the Apennines ; for this was my third timeof croſſing them . It gave me a live ly Idea of Silius Italicus's Deſcription of Hannibals March . Lib . 3: Quoque magis fubiere jugo atque evadere niſi Erexere gradum , creſcit labor, ardua ſuprà Sefe aperit felis, et nafcitur altera moles. From Steep to Steep the Troopsadvanc'd with Pain , In hopes at laſt the topmatt Cliff to gain ; But ſtill by new Aſcents the Mountain grew, And a freſh Toil preſented to their View. I ſhall conclude this Chapter with the Deſcriptions which 246 FLORENCE. which the Latin Poets have given us of the Apennines. We may obſerve in them all the remarkable Quali ties of this prodigious length of Mountains, that run from one Extremity of Italy to the other, and give Riſe to an incredible Variety of Rivers that water this delightful Country. -Nubifer Apenninus. Ovid, Metam . Lib. 2. v. 226 , Cloud -bearing Apennines. -Qui Siculum porrectus ad uſque Pelorum , Finibus ab Ligurum , populos amplectitur omnes Italie , geminumque latusftringentia longè Utraque perpetuo diſcriminat æquora tra &tu .. Claud, de ſexto Conf, Hon. Which ſtretching from Liguria's diſtant Bounds To where the Strait of Sicily reſounds, Extends itſelf thro' all Italia's Sons, Embracing various Nations as it runs : And from the Summit of its rocky Chain Beholds, on either Hand, the hoarſe-reſounding Main, Mole nivali Alpibus æquatum attollens caput Apenninus. Sil. Ital . Lib. 2. The Apennine, crown’d with perpetual Snow , High as the tow'ring Alps erects its lofty Brow. Horrebat glacie Saxa inter lubrica Summg Piniferum coelo miſcens caput Apenninus : Condiderat Nix alta trabes, et vertice cello Canus apexſtrietàfurgebat ad aſtra pruina. Id. Lib. 4. Deformid FLORENCE. 247 Deform'd with Ice , the ſhady Apennine Mix'd with the Skies ; and , cover'd deep with Mows, High as the Stars his hoary Summit roſe. Umbroſis mediam quà collibus Apenninus Erigit Italiam , nullo quâ vertice tellus Altiàs intumuit, propiùſque accefit Olympo, Mons inter geminas medius ſeporrigitundas Inferni, ſuperique maris : colleſque coercent, Hinc Tyrrhena vadofrangentesæquora Piſa , Illinc Dalmaticis obnoxiafuetibus Ancon . Fontibus hic vaftis immenſos concipit amnes, Fluminaque in geminiſpargit divortia ponti. Lucan . Lib. 2. v. 396 , In Pomp the flady Apennines ariſe, And lift th' aſpiring Nation to the Skies ; No Land like Italy erects the Sight By ſuch a vaſt Aſcent, or ſwells to ſuch a Height : Her num'rous States the tow'ring Hills divide, And ſee the Billows riſe on either Side ; At Piſa here the Range of Mountains ends, And here to high Ancona's Shores extends : In their dark Womb a thouſand Rivers lie, That with continu'd Streams the double Sea ſupply, Bolonia, BOLONIA, MODENA, PARMA, TURIN , & c. FTER a very tedious Journey over the Apennines, we at laſt came to the River that runs at the foot of them , and was formerly call'd the little Rhine. Following the Courſe of this River we arrived in a ſhort time at Bolonia . Parvique Bononia Rheni. Sil. Ital . Lib. 8 . 1 Bolonia water'd by the petty Rhine. We here quickly felt the Difference of theNorthern from the Southern Side of the Mountains, as well in the Coldneſs of the Air, as in the Badneſs of the Wine. This Town is famous for the Richneſs of 1 the Soil that lies about it ; and the Magnificence of its Convents. It is likewiſe eſteemed The Third in Italy for Pictures, as having been the School of the Lombard Painters. I ſaw in it three Rarities of dif. ferent kinds, which pleaſed me more than any other Shows of the Place. The firſt was an authentic Sil. ver Medal of the younger Brutus, in the Handsof an eminent Antiquary. One may ſee the Character of the Bolonia, Modena, &c. 249 the Perſon in the Features of the Face, which is exquiſitely well cut. On the Reverſe is the Cap of Liberty, with a Dagger on each side of it , ſub ſcribed Id. Mar. for the Ides of March , the famous Date of Cæſar's Murder. The Second was a Picture of Raphael's in St. Giouanni in Monte. It is ex tremely well preſerved , and repreſents St. Cecilia with an Inſtrument of Muſic in her Hands. On one ſide of her are the Figures of St. Paul, and St. John ; and on the other, Mary Magdalene, and St. Auftin . There is ſomething wonderfully Divine in the Airs of this picture. I cannot forbear mentioning, for my Third Curioſity, a new Stair caſe that Strangers are generally carried to ſee, where the Eaſineſs of the Aſcent within ſo ſmall a Compaſs, the Diſpoſition of the Lights, and the convenient Landing are admirably well contrived. The Wars of Italy , and the Seaſon of the Year . made me paſs thro' the Dutchies of Modena, Parma, and Savoy, with more haſte than I would have done at another time. The Soil of Modena and Parma is very rich and well cultivated . The Pa laces of the Princes are magnificent, but neither of them is yet finiſhed . We procured a Licence of the Duke of Parma to enter the Theatre and Gallery, which deſerve to be ſeen as well as any thing of that nature in Italy. The Theatre is , I think, the moſt ſpacious of any I ever ſaw , and at the ſame time fo's admirably well contrived , that from the very Depth of the Stage the loweſt ſound may be heard di ftinetly to the fartheſt Part of the Audience, as in a Whiſpering-Place ; and yet if you raiſe your Voice as high as you pleaſe , there is nothing like an Echo to cauſe in it the leaſt Confufion . The Gallery is hung with a numerous Collection of Pictures, all done by celebrated Hands. On one side of the Gallery 250 Bolonia, Modena, Gallery is a large Room adorned with Inlay'a > Tables, Cabinets, Works in Amber, and other Pieces of great Art and Value. Out of this we were led into another great Room , furniſhed with old Inſcriptions, Idols , Bufts, Medals, and the like Antiquities. I could have ſpent a Day with great Satisfaction in this Apartment, but had only time to paſs my Eye over the Medals, which are in great Number, and many of them very rare. The ſcarceft of all is a Pefcennius Niger on a Medalion well preſerved. It was coined at An . tioch, where this Emperor trified away his Time ' till he loſt his Life and Empire. The Reverſe is a Dea Salus. There are two of Otho, the Re verſe a Serapis ; and two of Meffalina and Pop paa in middle Braſs, the Reverſes of the Empe ror Claudius. I ſaw two Medalions of Plotina and Matidia , the Reverſe to each a Pietas : with two Niedals of Pertinax , the Reverſe of one Vota De cennalia , and of the other Diis Cuftodibus ; and another of Gordianus Africanus, the Reverſe I have forgot. The Principalities of Modena and Parma are much about the ſame Extent, and have each of them two large Towns, beſides a great Number of little Villages. The Duke of Parma however is much richer than the Duke of Modena. Their Subjects would live in great Plenty amidſt ſo rich and well cultivated a Soil, were not the Taxes and Impofitions ſo very Exorbitant ; for the Courts are much too ſplendid and magnificent for the Territo ries that lie about them , and one cannot but be amazed to ſee ſuch a Profuſion of Wealth laid out in Coaches, Trappings, Tables, Cabinets, and the like precious Toys, in which there are few Princes of Europe who equal them , when at the ſame time they Parma, Turin, &c. 251 they have not had the Generoſity to make Bridges over the Rivers of their Countries, for the Conve nience of their Subjects, as well as Strangers, who are forced to pay an unreaſonable Exaction at every Ferry upon the leaſt riſing of the Waters. A Man might well expect in theſe ſmall Governments, a much greater Regulation of Affairs, for the Eaſe and Benefit of thePeople, than in large over-grown States, where the Rules of Juſtice , Beneficence, and Mercy, may be eaſily put out of their Courſe, in paſſing thro' the Hands of Deputies, and a long Subordination of Officers. And it would certainly be for the Goodof Mankindto have all the mighty Empires and Monarchies of the World cantoned out into petty States and Principalities, that, like ſo many large Families, might lie under the Eye and Obſervation of their proper GovernorsS ; ſo that the Care of the Prince might extend itſelf to every individual Perſon underhis Protection . But ſince ſuch a general Scheme can never be brought about, and, if it were, it would quickly be de ſtroyed by the Ambition of ſome particular State aſpiring above the reſt, it happens very ill at pre ſent to be born under one of theſe petty Sove reigns, that will ſtill be endeavouring, at his Sub jects Coſt, to equal the Pomp and Grandeur of greater Princes, as well as to outvy thoſe of his own Rank. For this Reaſon there are no People in the World , who live with more Eaſe and Proſperity, than the Subjects of little Commonwealths, as on the contrary there are none who ſuffer more under the Grievances of a hard Government, than the Subjects of little Principalities. I left the Road of Milan on my Right Hand , having be fore ſeen that City, and after having paſſed through Aſli, 252 Bolonia, Modena, Affi, theFrontier Town of Savoy, I at laſt came within Sight of the Po, which is a fine River even at Turin, though within fix Miles of its Source. This River has been made the Scene of two or three Poetical Stories. Ovid has cho ſen it out to throw his Phaeton into it, after all the ſmaller Rivers had been dry'd up in the Con flagration . I have read fome Botanical Critics, who tell us the Poets have not rightly followed the Traditions of Antiquity, in Metamorphoſing the Siſters of Phaeton into Poplars, who ought tohave been turned into Larch- trees ; for that it is this kind of Tree which ſheds a Gum , and is commonly found on the Banks of the Po. The Change of Cycnus into a Swan , which cloſes up the Diſaſters of Phaeton's Family, was wrought on the ſame place where the Siſters were turned into Trees. The Deſcriptions that Virgil and Ovid have made of it cannot be ſuf ficiently admired . Claudian has ſet off his Deſcription of the Erida nus with all the Poetical Stories that have been made of it .

Ille caput placidis ſublimefluentis Extulit, & totis lucem ſpargentia ripis

Aurea roranti micuerunt cornua vultu .

Non illi madidum vulgaris arundine crinem

Velat honos ; rami caput umbravere virentes Heliadum , totiſque fluunt electra capillis.

Palla tegit latos humeros, curruque paterno Intextus Phaëton glaucos incendit amictus:

Fultaqueſub gremio cælatis nobilis aftris Athereum probat urna decus. Namque omnia luEtcias Argumenta ſui :Titan fignavit Olympó,

Mutatumque ſenem plumis, et fronde ſorores,

Et Parma, Turin, &c. 253

Etfluvium , nati qui vulnera lavit anbeli.

Stat gelidis Aurigaplagis ; veſtigia fratris Germanæ ſervant Hyades, Cycniquefodalis Latteus extentas aſpergit circulus alas.

Stellifer Eridanus finuatis fluctibus errans,

Clara noti convexa rigat Claudian , de fexto Conf. Honorii.

His Head above the Floods he gently rear'a ,

And as he roſe his golden Horns appear'd,

That on the Foreheadfhone divinely bright,

And o'er the Banks diffus'd a yellow Light:

No interwoven Reeds a Garland made,

To hide his Brows within the vulgar Shade ;

But Poplar Wreaths around his Temples ſpread,

And Tears of Amber trickled down his Head :

A ſpacious Veil from his broad Shoulders flew ,

That ſet th' unhappy Phaeton to view :

The flaming Chariot and the Steeds it ſhow'd ,

And the whole Fable in the Mantle glow'd :

Beneath his Arm and Urn ſupported lies,

With Stars embelliſh'd and fictitious Skies.

For Titan, by the mighty Loſs diſmay'd ,

Among the Heav'ns th ' Immortal Fact diſplay'd ,

Left the Remembrance of his Grief ſhould fail,

And in the Conſtellations wrote his Tale.

A Swan in Memory of Cycnus fhines ;

The Mourning Siſters weep in watry Signs ;

The burning Chariot, and the Charioteer,

In bright Bootes and his Waneappear ;

Whilt in a Track of Light the Waters run,

That waſh'd the Body ofhis blafted Son.

The River Po gives a Name to the chief Street of Turin , which fronts the Duke's Palace, and,

1 M when 254 Bolonia, Modena, when finiſh'd will be one of the nobleſt in Italy for its Length. There is one Convenience in this City that I never obſerved in any other, and which makes ſome amends for the Badneſs of the Pave ment. By the help of a River, that runs on the upper Side of the Town, they can convey a little Stream of Water through all the moſt conſiderable Streets, which ſerve to cleanſe the Gutters, andcar ries away all the Filth that is ſwept into it. The Manager opens his Sluice every Night, and diſtri butes the Water into what Quarters of the Town he pleaſes. Beſides the ordinary Convenience that ariſes from it, it is of great uſe when a Fire chances to break out ; for at a few Minutes warning they have a little River running by the very Walls of the Houſe that is burning. The Court of Turin is reckon'd the moſt ſplendid and polite of any in Italy ; but by reaſon of its being in Mourning, I could not ſee it in its Magnificence. The common Peopleof this State are more exaſperated againſt the French than even the reſt of the Italians. For the great Miſchiefs they have ſuffer'd from them are ſtill treh upon their Memories, and, notwithſtanding this Interval of Peace, one may eaſily trace out the ſeveral Marches , which the French Armies have made through their Country, by the Ruin and De fulation they have left behind them . I paſſed through Piedmont and Savoy, at a time when the Duke wasforced, by the Neceſſity of his Affairs, to be in Alliance with the French . I came directly from Turin to Geneva, and had a very eaſy Journey over Mount Cennis, though about the Beginning of December, the Snows having not yet fallen. On the Top of this high Moun tain is a large Plain , and in the midſt of the Plain a beautiful 1 Parma, Turin, & c. 255 a beautiful Lake which would be very extraordi nary, were there not ſeveral Mountains in the Neigh bourhood riſing over it. The Inhabitants there about pretend that it is unfathomable, and I que. ſtion not but the waters of it fill up a deep Valley, before they come to a level with the Surface of the Plain . It is well - ſtock'd with Trouts, though they ſay it is cover'd with Ice three quarters of a Year. There is nothing in the natural Face ofItaly that is more delightful to a Traveller, than the ſeveral Lakes which are diſperſed up and down among the many Breaks and Hollows of the Alps and Apen nines. For as theſe vaſt Heaps of Mountains are thrown together with ſo much Irregularity and Con fuſion , they form a great Variety of hollow Bot toms, that often lie in the Figure of ſo many artifi. cial Bafons ;where, if any Fountains chance to riſe, they naturally ſpread themſelves into Lakes, before they can find any Iſſue for their Waters. The an . cient Romans took a great deal of pains to hew out a Paſſage for theſe Lakes to diſcharge themſelves in to ſomeneighbouring River, for the bettering of the Air, or the recovering of the Soil that lay under neath them . The draining of the Fucinus by the Emperor Claudius, with the prodigious Multitude of Spectators who attended it , and the famous Nau . machia and ſplendid Entertainment, which were made upon it before the Sluices were open'd, is' a known Piece of Hiſtory. In all our Journey thro' the Alps, as well when weclimb'd as when wedeſcended thêm, we had ſtill a River running along with the Road, that probably at firſt occafion'd the Diſcovery of this Paſſage. I ſhall end this Chapter with a Deſcription of the Alps , as I did the laſt with thoſe M 2 of 256 Bolonia, Modena, of the Apennines. The Poet perhaps would not have taken notice, that there is no Spring nor Sum mer on theſe Mountains, but becauſe in this reſpect the Alps are quite different from the Apennines, which have as delightful green Spots among them as any in Italy. Cuneta gelu canáque æternam grandine técta , Atque-ævi glaciem cohibent: riget ardua montis Æthereifacies, furgentique obvia Phæbe DuratasneſcitÄammis mollire pruinas : Quantùm Tartareus regni pallentis biatus Àd manes imos atque atræ ftagna paludis Afuperâ tellure patet, tamlongaperauras Erigitur tellus, & coelum intercipit Umbra. Nullum ver uſquam , nullique Æftatis honores ; Sola jugis habitat diris, ſedeſque tuetur Perpetuas deformis Hyems: illa undique nubos Huc atras agit, et mixtos cumgrandine nimbos. Nam cunéti flatus ventique furentia regna Alpinâ poſuere domo, caligat in altis Obtutusfaxis, abeuntquein nubila montes. Sil. Ital. Lib . 3 . Stiff with Eternal Ice, and hid in Snow That fell a thouſand Centuries ago, The Mountain ſtands; nor can the riſing Sun Unfix her Froſts, and teach ' em how to run : Deep as the dark Infernal Waters lie From the bright Regions of the chearful Sky, So far the proud aſcending Rocks invade Heav'n's upper Realms, and caſt a dreadful Shade : No Spring nor Summer on the Mountain ſeen Smiles with gay Fruits, or with delightful Green ; But hoary Winter,,unadorn's and bare, Dwells in the dire Retreat, and freezes there ; There 1 Parma, Turin , &c . 257 There ſhe aſſembles all her blackeſt Storms, And the rude Hail in rattling Tempeſts forms; Thither the loud tumultuous Winds refort , And on the Mountain keep their boift'rous Court, That in thick Show'rs her rocky Summit ſhrowds And darkens all the broken View with Clouds. TPUT ULUT.th it M 3 GENEVA G E NE V A AND THE L A K E EAR St. Julian in Savoy the Alps begin to enlarge themſelveson all fides, N andopen into a vaſt Circuit of Ground, which, in reſpect of the other parts of the Alps, may paſs for a plain Cham pian Country. This Extent of Lands, with the Leman Lake, would make one of the pret tieſt and moſt defenfible Dominions in Europe, was it all thrown into a ſingle State, and had Geneva for its Metropolis. But there are three powerful Neighbours, who divide among them the greateſt part of this fruitful Country. The Duke of Savoy has the Chablais, and all the Fields that lie beyond the Arve, as far as to the Ecluſe. The King of France is Maſter of the whole Country ofGex ; and the Canton of Bern comes in for that of Vaud.. Geo neva and its little Territories lie in the Heart of theſe three States. The greateſt part of the Town ſtands upon a Hill, and has its View bounded on all Sides by ſeveral Ranges of Mountains, which are however at ſo great a Diſtance, that they leave open a Geneva and the Lake. 259 a wonderful Variety of beautiful Proſpects. The Si tuation of theſe Mountains has fome particular Ef fects on the Country, which they incloſe. As firſt, they cover it from all Winds, except the South and North . ' Tis to the laſt of theſe Winds that the Inhabitants ofGenevaaſcribe the Healthfulneſs of their Air ; for as the Alps ſurround them on all fides, they form a vaſt kind of Bafon , where there would be a conſtant Stagnation of Vapours, the Country being ſo well water'd , did not the North Wind put them in Motion , and ſcatter them from time to time. Another Effect the Alps have on Geneva is, that the Sun here riſes later and ſets ſooner than it does to other Places of the ſame Latitude. I have often obſerved that the Tops of the neighbouring Moun tains have been covered with Light above half an Hour after Sun is down, in reſpect of thoſe who live at Geneva. Thefe Mountains likewiſe very much increaſe their Summer Heats, and make up an Horizon that has ſomething in it very fingular and agreeable. On one fide you have the long Tract of Hills, that goes under the Name of Mount Jura, covered with Vineyards and Paſturage, and on the other huge Precipices of naked Rocks riſing up in a thouſand odd Figures, and cleft in ſome Places, ſo as to diſcover high Mountains of Snow that lie ſeveralLeagues behind them . Towards the South the Hills riſe more inſenſibly, and leave the Eye a vaſt uninterrupted Proſpect for many Miles. But the moſt beautiful view of all is the Lake, and the Borders of it that lie North of the Town. This Lake reſembles a Sea in the Colour of its Waters, the Storms that are raiſed on it , and the Ravage it makes on its Banks. . It receives too a different Name from the Coaſts it waſhes, and in Summer has ſomething like an Ebb and Flow , M4 which 260 Geneva and the Lake. which ariſes from the melting of the Snows that fall into it more copiouſly ,at Noon than at other times of the Day. It has five different States bordering on it , the Kingdom of France, the Dutchy of Savay, the Canton of Bern , the Biſhoprick of Sion, and the Republic of Geneva. I have ſeen Papers fix'd up in the Canton of Bern , with this magnificent Preface ; Whereas we have been informed of ſeveralAbuſes com mitted in our Ports and Harbours on the Lake, &c. I made a little Voyage round the Lake, and touch'd on the ſeveral Towns that lie on its Coaſts, which took up near five Days, tho' the Wind was pretty fair for us all the while. The Right Side of the Lake from Geneva belongs to the Duke of Savoy, and is extremely well culti vated. The greateſt Entertainment we found in coafting it were the ſeveral Proſpects of Woods, Vineyards, Meadows, and Corn Fields which lie on the Borders of it, and run up all the sides of the Alps, where the Barrenneſs of the Rocks, or the Steepneſs of the Aſcent will ſuffer them. The Wine however on this Side of the Lake is by no means ſo good as that on the other, as it has not ſo open a Soil, and is leſs expos'd to the Sun. We here paſs'd by Yvoire , where the Duke keeps his Gallies, and lodg'd at Tonon , which is the greateſt Town on the Lake belonging to the Savoyard. It has four Con vents, and they ſay about fix or ſeven thouſand Inhabitants. The Lake is here about twelve Miles in Breadth . At a little Diſtance from Tonon ftands Ripaille, where is a Convent of Carthufians. They have a large Foreſt cut out into Walks, that are extremely thick and gloomy, and very ſuitable to the Genius of the Inhabitants. There are Vifta's in it of a great Length, that terminate upon the Lake. At one side of the Walks you have a near Proſpect Geneva and the Lake. 261 Proſpect of the Alps, which are broken into ſo many Steeps and Precipices, that they fill the Mind with an agreeable kind of Horror, and form one of the moſt irregular mil-ſhapen Scenes in the World . The Houſe, that is now in the Hands of the Carthufians, belong'd formerly to the Hermits of St. Maurice, and is famous in Hiſtory for the Retreat of an Anti Pope, who call'd himſelf Felix the Fifth . He had been Duke of Savoy , and after a very glorious Reign took on him the Habit of a Hermit, and retired into this Solitary Spot of his Dominions. His Ene mies will have it , that he lived here in great Eaſe : and Luxury ; from whence the Italians tothis Day make uſe of the Proverb, Andare a Ripaglia , and the French , Faire Ripaille, to expreſs a delightful kind of Life. They ſay too, that he had great Managements - with ſeveral Eccleſiaſtics before he turned Hermit, and that he did it in the View of being advanced to the Pontificate. However it was, he had not been here half a Year, before he was choſen Pope by theCouncil of Bafil, who took upon them to Depoſe Eugenio the Fourth . This promiſed fair at firit ; but by the Death of the Em peror, who favoured Amadeo ; and the Refolution of Eugenio, the greateſt part of the Church threw it ſelf again under the Government of their depoſed Head . Our Anti- Pope however was ſtill ſupported by the Council of Bafil, and owned by Savoy, Switzerland, and a few other little States. This Schiſm laſted in the Church nine Years, after which Felix voluntarily reſigned his Title into the Hands of Pope Nicholas the Fifth ;- but on the following · Conditions, That Amadeo fhould be the firſt Car- dinal in the Conclave ; That the Pope ſhould always receive him ſtanding, and offer him his Mouth to kiſs ;. That he ſhould be perpetual Cardinal- Legate in 1 M 5 262 Geneva and the Lake. in the States of Savoy and Switzerland, and in the Archbiſhopricks of Geneva, Sion , Breſs, &c. And Jaſtly, That all the Cardinals of his Creation ſhould be recognized by the Pope. After he had made a Peace ſo acceptable to the Church, and ſo honou rable to himſelf, he ſpent the Remainder of his Life with great Devotion at Ripaille, and died with an extraordinary Reputation of San &tity. At Tonon they thewed us a Fountain of Water that is in great Efteem for its Wholſomnefs. They ſay it weighs two Ounces in a Pound leſs than the fame Mealure of the Lake Water, notwithſtanding this laſt is very good to drink , and as clear as can he imagined. A little above Tonon is a Caſtle and ſmall Garriſon . The next Day we ſaw other ſmall Towns on the coaſt of Savoy, where there is no thing but Miſery and Poverty . The nearer you come to the End of the Lake, the Mountains on each fide grow thicker and higher, ' till at laſt they almoft meet. One often fees on the Tops of the Moun. tains ſeveral ſharp Rocks that ſtand above the reſt; for as theſe Mountains have been doubtleſs much higher than they are at preſent, the Rains have waſhed awayabundance of the Soil, that has left the Veins of Stones Shooting out of them ; as in a decay'd Body the Fleſh is ftill ſhrinking from the Bones. The natural Hiſtories of Switzerland talk very much of the fall of theſe Rocks, and the great damage they have ſometimes done, when their Foundations have been mouldred with Age, or rent by an Earthquake. We ſaw in ſeveral Parts of the Alps, that bordered upon us, vaft Pits of Snow , as ſeveral Mountains that lie at a greater Diſtance are wholly covered with it . I fancied the Confuſion of Mountains and Hollows, I here obſerved , furniſhed me with a more probable Reaſon than any I have met Geneva and the Lake. 263 D met with for thoſe Periodical Fountains in Switzer land , which flow only at ſuch particular Hours of the Day. For as the Tops of theſe Mountains caſt their Shadows upon one another, they hinder the Sun's ſhining on ſeveral Parts at ſuch certain times, ſo that there are ſeveral Heaps of Snow which have the Sun lying upon them for two or three Hours toge ther , and are in the Shade all the Day afterwards. Iftherefore it happens that any particular Fountain takes its Riſe from any of theſe Reſervoirs of Snow , it will naturally begin to flow on fuch Hours of the Day as the Snow begins to melt: but as ſoon as the Sun leaves it again to freeze and harden the Fountain dries up, and receives no more Supplies ’till about the ſame time the next Day, when the Heat of the Sun again ſets the Snows running that fall into the ſame little Conduits, Traces, and Canals, and by conſequence break out and diſcover themſelves always in the fame Place. At the very Extremity of the Lake the Rhone enters, and, when I ſaw itz. brought along with it a prodigious Quantity of Water, the Rivers and Lakes of this Country being much higher in Summer than in Winter, by reaſon of themelting of the Snows. One would wonder: how ſo many Learned Mencould fall into fo great an Abſurdity , as to believe this River could preſerve itſelf unmix'd with the Lake, till its going out again at Geneva, which is a Courſe of many Miles. It was extremely muddy at its entrance , when I ſaw it, though as clear as Rock Water at its going out: Beſides, that it brought in much more Water than it carried off . The River indeed preſerves itſelf for about a Quarter of a Mile in the Lake, but is afterwards fo wholly mix'd and loſt with the Waters of the Lake, that one diſcovers nothing like a Stream 'till within about a Quarter of a Mile of Geneva . 2 264 Geneva and the Lake. Geneva. From the End of the Lake to the Source of the Rhone is a Valley of about four Days Jour ney in Length, which gives the Nameof Vallefins to its Inhabitants, and is the Dominion of the Biſhop of Sion . Welodg'd theſecond Night at Villa Neuve, a little Town in the Canton ofBern, where we found good Accommodations, and a much greater Appearance of Plenty than on the other ſide of the Lake. The next Day, having paffed by the Caſtle of Chillon, we came to Verſoy, another Town in the Canton of Bern, where Ludlow retired after having left Geneva and Lauſanne. The Magiſtrates of the Town warned him out of the firſt by the Solicitation of the Dutcheſs of Orleans, as the Death of his Friend Lifle made him quit the other. He probably choſe this Retreat as a Place of the greateſt Safety, it being an eaſy Matter to know what Sıran gers are in the Town, by reaſon of its Situation. The Houſe he lived in has this Inſcription over the Door ; Omne folum fortipatria quia Patris. The firſt part is a Piece of Verſe in Ovid , as the laft is a Cant of his own, He is buried in the beſt of the Churches with the following Epitaph. Siſte gradum et reſpice. Hic jacet Edmond Ludlow , Anglus Natione, Pro vincia Wiltonienſis, filius HenriciEqueſtris Ordinis, Senatoriſque Parliamenti, cujus quoquefuit ipfe mem brum , Patrum ftemmate clarus et nobilis, virtute propriâ nobilior, Religione proteſtans et infigni pietate corufcus, Ætatis Anno 23 Tribunus Militum , paulo poft Geneva and the Lake. 265 poſt exercitus prætor primarius. Tunc Hibernorum domitor, in pugnâ intrepidus et vitæ prodigus, in vittoria clemenset manfuetus, patria Libertatis De fenfor, et poteſtatis Arbitrariæ propugnator acer rimus ; cujus cauſâ ab eâdem patria 32 annisextorris, meliorique fortuna Dignus apud Helvetios fe recepit, ibique ætatis Anno 73 Moriens ſui defiderium relin quens fedes æternas lætus advolavit. Hócce Monumentum , in perpetuam vere et fincere pietatis erga Maritum defunétum memoriam , dicat et vovet Domina Elizabethde Thomas, ejus ftrenua et mæfliffima, tam in infortuniis quam in matrimonio confors dile & tiffima, quæ animi magnitudine et vi amo ris conjugalis mota eum in exilium ad obitum uſque conftanter fecuta eft. Anno Dom. 1693. Here lies Edmund Ludlow , by Birth an Engliſh man, of the County ofWilts; Son of Sir Henry Ludlow Knight ; a Member of Parliament, as his ather had likewiſe been ; more diftiguiſh'a by his Virtue than his Family, tho' an ancient and good one ; by Religion a Proteftant, and remarkable for his eminent Piety : In the 23d Year of his Age he had the Command of a Regiment, and, foon after, the Poſt of Lieutenant-General: In which Quality he fubdued the Iriſh, being intrepid in Fight, and expoſing himſelf to the greateſt Dangers ; but in Victory merciful and humane: A Defender of the Liberty of his Country, and a ſtrenuous Oppoſer of Arbitrary Power: upon which Account being ba niſhed 32 Years from his native Country, andwor thy of a better Fortune, he retired into Switzerlanche where he died , univerſally regretted , in the 73d Year of his Age. This Monument was erected, in perpetual Me mory of her true and ſincere Affection towards her deceas'd ! 266 Geneva and the Lake . deceas'd Husband, by Dame Elizabeth Thomas, his beloved Wife , and afflicted , but conſtant, Partner, as well in Misfortunes, as in Wedlock ; who, ex cited by her own Greatneſs of Mind, and the Force of conjugal Love, follow'd him into Baniſh ment, and conſtantly bore him company to his Death, A. D. 1693. Ludlow was a conſtant frequenter of Sermons and Prayers, but would never communicate with them either of Geneva or Vevy. Juſt by his Monument is a Tombſtone with the following Inſcription. Depoſitorium Andreæ Broughton Armigeri Anglicani Maydfonenfis in Comitatu Cantii ubibis prætor Urbanus. Digna tuſque etiam fuit fententiam Regis.Regum profari. Quam ob cauſam expulfus patriâfuâ, peregrinatione ejus finitå, folo ſenectutis morbo affectus requieſcens à laboribus fuis in Domino obdormivit, 23 die Feb. Anno D. 1687. ætatis fuæ 84. The Remains of Andrew Broughton, Eſq; an Engliſhman , of Maid Alone in the County of Kent, of which Place he was twice Mayor. He had the Honour likewiſe to pro nounce the Sentence of the King of Kings. Upon which Account being baniſhed from his Country , after his Travels were at an end, affected with no other Diſeaſe than that of old Age , he refted from his Labours, and fell aſleep in the Lord , the 23d of February, A. D. 1687 , in the 84th Year of his Age. The Inhabitants of the Place could give no Account of this Broughton ; but, I ſuppoſe, by his Epitaph , it is the ſame Perſon that was Clerk to the pre tended High Court of Juſtice, which paſied Sen tence on the Royal Martyro. The Geneva and the Lake. 267 -1 The next Day we ſpent at Lauſanne, the greateſt Town on the Lake, after Geneva. We ſaw the Wall of the Cathedral Church that was opened by an Earthquake, and ſhut up againſomeYears after by a Second . The Crack can but be juſt diſcerned at preſent, though there are ſeveral in the Town ftill living who have formerly paſſed through it. The Duke of Schomberg, who was killed in Savoy, lies in this Church, but without any Monument or In ſcription over him. Lauſanne was once a Republic , but is now under the Canton of Bern, and governed , like the reſt of their Dominions, by a Bailiff, who is ſent them every three Years from the Senate of Bern . There is one Street of this Town that has the Privilege of acquitting or condemning any Perſon of theirown Body, in Matters of Life and Death . Every Inhabitant of it has his Vote, which makes a Houſe here ſell better than in any other part of the Town. They tell you that not many Years ago it happen'd , that a Cobler had the Cafting Vote for the Life of the Criminal, which he very gra ciouſly gave on the merciful Side. From Lauſanne to Geneva wecoafted along theCountry of the Vaud, which is the fruitfulleſt and beſt cultivated Part of any among the Alps. It belonged formerly to the Duke of Savoy, but was won from him by the Can . ton of Bern, and made over to it by the Treaty of St. Julian, which is ſtill very muchregretted by the Savoyard. We call'd in at Morge, where there is an artificial Port, and a Show of more Trade than in any other Town on the Lake. From Morge we came to Nyon. The Colonia Equeſtris, that Julius Cæfar fettled in this Country, is generally ſuppoſed to have been planted in this place. They have of ten dug up old Roman Inſcriptions and Statues, and as I walk'd in the Town I obſerved in the Walls of ſeveral 268 Geneva and the Lake. feveral Houſes the Fragments of vaſt Corinthian Pillars, with ſeveral other Pieces of Architecture, which muſt have formerly belonged to ſome very noble Pile of Building. There is no Author that, mentions this Colony, yet it is certain by ſeveral old Roman Infcriptions that there was ſuch an one. Lucan indeed ſpeaks of a Part of Cæſar's Army, that came to him from the Leman Lake in the be ginning of the Civil War. Deſeruere cavo tentoria fixa Lemanno. Lib. 1. v. 396 . They left their Tents pitch'd on the Leman Lake. At about five Miles diſtance from Nyon they fhow ſtill the Ruins of Clefar's Wall, that reached eighteen Miles in Length from Mount Jura to the Borders of the Lake, as he has deſcribed it in the firſt Book of his Commentaries. The next Town upon the Lake is Verſoy, whch we could not have an Opportunity of ſeeing, as belonging to the King of France. It has the Reputation ofbeing extremely poor and beggarly. Wefailed from hence directly for Geneva,which makes a very noble Show from the Lake. There are near Geneva ſeveral Quarries of Freeſtone that run under the Lake. When the Water is at loweſt they make within the Borders of it a little Square incloſed with four Walls. In this Square they ſink a Pit, and dig for Freeltone ; the Walls hindering the Waters from coming in upon them, when the Lake riſes and runs on all Sides of them . The great Convenience of Carriage makes thefe Stones much cheaper than any that can be found upon firm Land. One fees ſeveral deep Pits that have been made at ſeveral times as one fails over Geneva and the Lake. 269 over them . As the Lake approaches Geneva it grows ſtill narrower and narrower, 'till, at laft it changes of the Town, and is extremely rapid , notwith ſtanding its Waters are very deep. As I have ſeen great Part of the Courſe of this River, I cannot but think it has been guided by the particular Hand of Providence. It riſes in the very Heart of the Alps, and has a long Valley that ſeems hewn out on purpoſe to give its Waters a Paſſage amidſt fo many Rocks and Mountains which are on all sides of it. This brings it almoft in a dire & Line to Geneva. It would there overflow all the Country, werethere not one particular Cleft that divides a vaſt Circuit of Mountains, and conveys it off to Lyons. From Lyons there is another great Rent, which runs acroſs the whole Country in almoſt another ſtraight Line , and notwithſtanding the vaſt Height of the Moun tains that riſe about it , gives it the ſhorteſt Courſe it can take to fall into the Sea . Had ſuch a River as this been left to itſelf to have found its way out from among the Alps, whatever Windings it had made it muſt have formed ſeveral little Seas , and have laid many Countries under Water before it had come to the End of its Courſe. I ſhall not make any Remarks upon Geneva, that is a Republic ſo well known to the Engliſh. It lies at preſent under fome Difficulties by reaſon of the Emperor's Dif pleaſure, who has forbidden the Importation of their Manufactures into any part of the Empire, which will certainly raiſe a Sedition among the People, unleſs the Magiſtrates find ſome way to remedy it : and they ſay it is already done by the Interpofition of the States of Holland. The Occaſion of the Emperor's Prohibition was their furniſhing great Sums to the King of France for the Payment of his Army it 270 Geneva and the Lake. Army in Italy. They obliged themſelves to remit, after the rate of twelve hundred thoufand Pounds Sterling per Annum , divided into ſo many Monthly Payments. As the Intereſt was very great, ſeveral of the Merchants of Lyons, who would not truft their King in their own Names, are ſaid to have contributed a great deal under the Names of Geneva Merchants. The Republic fancies itſelf hardly treated by the Emperor, fince it is not any Action of the State, but a Compact among private Perſons that have furniſhed out theſe ſeveral Remittances. They pretend however to have put a ſtop to them , and by that means are in hopes again to open their Commerce into the Empire. Fribourg, Fribourg, Bern, Soleurre, Zurich, St. Gaul,, Lindaw , & c. ROM Geneva I travelled to Lau fanne, and thence to Fribourg , which is but a mean Town for the Capital of to large a Canton : Its Situation is ſo irregular, that they are forced to climb up to ſeveral Parts of it by Stair -caſes of a prodigious Aſcent. This Inconve nience however gives them a very great Commo dity in caſe a Fire breaks out in any Part of the Tówn ; for by reaſon of ſeveral Reſervoirs on the tops of theſe Mountains, by the opening of a Sluice they convey a River into what Part of the Town they pleaſe. They have four Churches, four Con vents of Women, and as many for Men. The little Chapel called the Salutation, is very neat, and built with a pretty Fancy. The College of Je ſuits is, they ſay, the fineſt in Switzerland . There is a great deal of Room in it , and ſeveral beautiful Viewsfrom the different Parts of it . They have a Collection of Pictures repreſenting moft of the Fa thers of their Order, who havebeen eminent for their Piety or Learning. Among the reft, many Engliſh 272 Switzerland. 1 Engliſh Men, whom we name Rebels, and they Martyrs. Henry Garnet's Inſcription ſays, That, when the Heretics could not prevail with him, ei ther by Force or Promiſes, to change his Religion, they hanged and quartered him. At the Capuchins I ſaw the Eſcargatoire, which I took the more notice of, becauſe I do not remember to havemet with any thing of the ſame nature in other Countries. It is a ſquare Place boarded in , and filled with a vaſt quan tity of large Sifails, that are eſteemed excellent Food when they are well dreſſed. The Floor is ſtrowed about half a Foot deep with ſeveral kinds of Plants, amongwhich the Snails neſtle all the Winter Sea ſon . When Lent arrives , they open their Magazines, and take out of them the beſt meagre Food in the World ; for there is no Diſh of Fiſh that they reckon comparable to a Ragoût of Snails. About two Leagues from Fribourg we went to ſee a Hermitage, that is reckon'd the greateſt Curioſity of theſe Parts. It lies in the prettieſt Solitude imaginable, amongWoods and Rocks, which at firſt fight diſpoſe aMan to be ſerious. There has lived in it a Hermịt theſe five and twenty Years, who with his own Hands has worked in the Rock a pretty Chapel, a Sacriſty, a Chamber, Kitchin , Cellar, and othet Conveniencies. His Chimney is carry'd up through the whole Rock, ſo that you ſee the Sky through it, notwithſtanding the Rooms lie very deep. He has cut the Side of the Rock into a Flat for a Garden, and by laying on it the waſte Earth that he has found in ſeveral of the neighbour ing Parts, has made fuch a Spot of Ground of it as furniſhes out a kind of Luxury for an Hermit . As hę faw drops of Water diſtilling from ſeveral Parts of the Rock , by following the Veins of them , he bas made himſelf two or three Fountains in the Bowels Switzerland. 273

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Bowels of the Mountain, that ſerve his Table , and water his little Garden . We had very bad Ways from hence to Bern , a great Part of them through Woods of Fir- trees. The great Quantity of Timber they have in this Coun try makes them mend their Highways with Wood inſtead of Stone. I could not but take notice of the Make of ſeveral of their Barns I here faw . After having laid a Frame of Wood for the Foundation, they place at the four Corners of it four huge Blocks, cut in ſuch a Shape as neither : Mice nor any other ſort of Vermin can creep up the sides of them, at : the ſame time that they raiſe the Corn above the Moiſture thatmight comeinto it from the Ground. Thewhole Weight of the Barn is ſupported by theſe four Blocks. What pleaſed me moſt at Bern was their public Walks by the great . Church. They are raiſed ex tremely high, and, that their Weight might not break downtheir Walls and Pilaſters which ſurround them , they are built upon Arches and Vaults. Tho' they are, I believe, as high as moſt Steeples in Eng land from the Streets and Gardens that lie at the Foot of them , yet, about forty Years ago , a Perſon in his Drink fell down from the very top to the bot tom, without doing himſelf any other hurt than the breaking of an Arm . He dy'd about four Years ago. There is the nobleſt Summer- Profpect in the World from this Walk; for you have a full View of a huge Range of Mountains that lie in the Country of the Grifons, and are bury'd in Snow . They are about twenty five Leagues diſtance from the Town, though by reaſon of their Height and their Colour they ſeem much nearer . The Cathedral Church ſtands on one ſide of theſe Walks, and is perhaps the moſt magnificent of any Proteftant Church 274 Switzerland. Church in Europe, Out of England. It is a very bold Work, and a Mafter-piece in Gothic Archi tecture, I ſaw the Arſenal of Bern, where they ſay there are Arms for twenty thouſand Men. There is in deed no great pleaſure in viſiting theſe Magazines of War after one has ſeen two or three of them ; yet it is very well worth a Traveller's while to look in to all that lie in his Way ; for beſides the Idea it gives him of the Forces of a State, it ſerves to fix in his Mind the moſt conſiderable Parts of its Hi. ſtory. Thus in that of Geneva one meets with the Ladders, Petard, and other Utenſils which were made uſe of in their famous Eſcalade, beſides the Weapons they took of the Savoyards, Florentines, and French in the ſeveral Battles mentioned in their Hiſtory. In this of Bern you have the Figure and Armour of the Count who founded the Town, of the famous Tell, who is repreſented as ſhooting at the Apple on his Son's Head. The Story is too well known to be repeated in this place. I here likewiſe ſawthe Figure and Armour ofhim that headed thePeaſants in the War upon Bern , with the ſeveral Weapons which were found in the Hands of his Followers. They ſhow too abundance of Arms that they took from the Burgundians in the Battles which eſtabliſh'd them in their Liberty, and deſtroy'd the Great Duke of Burgundy himſelf, with the braveſt of his Subjects. I ſaw no thing remarkable in the Chambers wherethe Coun cil meet, nor in the Fortifications of the Town. Theſe laſt were made on occaſion of the Peaſants In ſurrection , to defend the Place for the future againſt the like ſudden Aſſaults. In their Library I obſerved a coupleof antique Figures in Metal, ' of a Prieſt pouring Wine between the Horns of a Bull. The Prieſt three great Switzerland. 275 Prieſt is veil'd after the manner of the old Roman Sacrificers, and is repreſented in the fame Action chat Virgil deſcribes in the fourth Æneid. Ipfa tenens dextrâ pateram pulcherrima Dido, Candentis vaccæ media inter cornua fundit. V. 60. The beauteous Queen before her Altar ftands, And holdsthe golden Goblet in her hands : A milk- white Heifer ſhe with Flow'rs adorns, And pours the ruddy Wine betwixt her Horns. Dryden . This Antiquity was found at Lauſanne. The Town of Bern is plentifully furniſhid with Water, there being a great multitude of handſom Fountains planted at ſet Diſtances from one end of the Streets to the other. There is indeed no Coun . try in the World better fupply'd with Water, than the ſeveral Parts of Switzerland that I travell’d through. One meets every where in the Roads with Fountains continually running into huge Troughs that ſtand underneath them , which is wonderfully commodious in a Country that ſo much abounds with Horſes and Cattle. It has ſo many Springs breaking out of the sides of the Hills, and ſuch vaft Quantities of Wood to make Pipes of, that it is no wonder they are ſo well ſtock'd with Foun tains. On the Road between Bern and Soleurre there is a Monument erected by the Republic of Bern , which tells us the Story of an Englifoman , who is not to be met with in any of our own Writers. The Inſcription is in Latin Verſe on one ſide of the Stone, and in German on the other. I had not time to 276 Switzerland. to copy it ; but the Subſtance of it is this : « One “ Cuffinus, an Engliſhman , to whom the Duke of “ Auftria had given his Siſter in Marriage, came “ to take her from amongthe Swiſs by Force of “ Arms ; but, after having ravaged the Country for “ fome time, he was here overthrown by the Can . « ton of Bern .” Soleurre is our next conſiderable Town that ſeemed to me to have a greater Air of Politeneſs than any I ſaw in Switzerland. The French Am. baſſadorhas his Reſidence in this place. His Maſter contributed a great Sum of Money to the Je fuits Church , which is not yet quite finiſhed . It is the fineſt modern Building in Switzerland. The old Cathedral Church ſtood not far from it. At the Aſcent that leads to it are a couple of antique Pillars, which belonged to an old heathen Tem . ple, dedicated to Hermes : They ſeem Tuſcan by their Proportion . The whole . Fortification of So leurre is faced with Marble. But its beſt Fortifi cations are the high Mountains that lie within its Neighbourhood, and ſeparate it from the Franche Comptè. Thenext Day's Journey carry'd us through other Parts of the Canton of Bern, to the little Town of Meldingen. I was ſurpriſed to find, in all my Road through Switzerland, the Wine that grows in the County of V and on the Border of theLake of Ge neva, which is very cheap, notwithſtanding the great diſtance between the Vineyards and the Towns that ſell the Wine. But the Navigable Rivers of Switzerland are as commodious to them in this re ſpect, as the Sea is to the Engliſh. As ſoon as the Vintage is over, they ſhip off their Wine upon the Lake, whichfurniſhes all the Towns that lie upon its Borders. What they deſign for other Parts ofthe Country Switzerland. 277 Country they unload at Vevy, and after about half a Day's Land- Carriage convey it into the River Aar, which brings it down the Stream to Bern , Soleurre, and, in a word , diſtributes it through all the richeſt Parts of Switzerland ; as it is eaſy to gueſs from the firſt fight of the Map, which ſhows us the natural Communication Providence has formed between the many Rivers and Lakes of a Country that is at ſo great a diſtance from the Sea. The Canton of Bern is reckoned as powerful as all the reſt together. They can ſend a hundred thouſand Men into the Field ; tho' the Soldiers of the Catholic Cantons, who are much poorer, and therefore forced to enter oftner into Foreign Armies, are more eſteem ed than the Proteſtants . We lay oneNight at Meldengen, which is a little Roman Catholic Town with one Church , and no Convent. It is a Republic of itſelf, under the Protection of the eight ancient Cantons. There are in it a hundred Burgeois, and about a thouſand Souls. Their Government is modelled after the fame manner with that of the Cantons, as much as ſo ſmall a Community can imitate thoſe of ſo large an Extent. For this Reaſon , though they have very little Buſineſs to do, they have all the variety of Councils and Officers that are to be met with in the greater States. They have a Town houſe to meet in , adorn'd with the Arms of the eight Can tons their Protectors. They have three Councils, the Great Council of Fourteen, the Little Council of Ten, and the Privy Council of Three. The chief of the State are the two Avoyers: When I was there, the reigning Avoyer , or Doge of the Commonwealth , was Son to the Juin where I was lodged ; his Father having enjoy'd the fame Ho nours before him. His Revenue amounts to about N thirty 278 Switzerland. thirty Pound a Year. The ſeveral Councils meet every Thurſday upon Affairs of State, ſuch as the Reparation of a Trough, the mending of a Pave ment, or any the like Matters of Importance. The River that runs through their Dominions puts them to the Charge of a very large Bridge, that is all made of Wood, and coped over Head, like the reſt in Switzerland . Thoſe that travel over it pay a certain Due towards the Maintenance of this Bridge. And as the French Ambaſſador has often Occaſion to paſs this Way, his Mafter gives the Town a Penſion of twenty Pound Sterling, which makes them ex tremely induſtrious to raiſe all the Men they can for his Service, and keeps this powerful Republic firm to the French Intereſt. You may be ſure the pre ſerving of the Bridge, with the Regulation ofthe Duesariſing from it, is the grand Affair that cuts out Employment for the ſeveral Councils of State. They have a ſmall Village belonging to them , whi. ther they punctually ſend a Bailif for the Diſtribution of Juſtice ; in Imitation ſtill of the Great Cantons. There are three other Towns that have the ſame Privileges and Protectors. Wedined the next Day at Zurich, that is prettily ſituated on the Out- let of the Lake, and is reckoned the handſomeft Town in Switzerland. The chief Places ſhown to Strangers are the Arſenal, the Li brary, and the Town -houſe. This laſt is but lately finished , and is a very fine Pile of Building. The Frontiſpiece has Pillars of a beautiful black Marble ſtreaked with white, which is found in the neighbouring Mountains. The Chambers for the ſeveral Councils, with the other Apartments, are very neat. The whole Building is indeed ſo well de. fign'd , that it would make a good Figure even in Italy. It is pity they have ſpoild the Beauty of the Walls Switzerland. 279 Walls with abundance of childiſh Latin Sentences, that conſiſt often in a Jingle of Words. I have in deed obſerved in ſeveral Inſcriptions of this Country, that your Men of Learning hereareextremely de lighted in playing little Tricks with Words and Fi gures ; for your Swiſs Wits are not yet got out of the Anagram and Acroſtic. The Library is a very large Room , pretty well filled . Over it is another Room furniſh'd with ſeveral artificial and natural Curiofities. I ſaw in it a huge Map of the whole Country of Zurich drawn with a Pencil , where they fee every particular Fountain and Hillock in their Dominions. I ran over their Cabinet of Medals, but don't remember to have met with any in it that are extraordinary rare. The Arſenal is better than that of Bern, and they ſay has Arms for thirty thouſand Men. At about a Day's Journey from Zurich we entered on the Territories of the Abbot of St. Gaul. They are four Hours riding in Breadth, and twelve in Length . The Abbot can raiſe in it an Army of twelve thouſand Men wellarmed and exerciſed. He is Sovereign of the whole Country, and under the Protection of the Cantons of Zurich, Lucerne, Gla ris and Switz . He is always choſen out of the Ab by of Benedictines at St. Gaul. Every Father and Brother of the Convent has a Voice in the Election , which muſt afterwards be confirmed by the Pope. The laſt Abbot was Cardinal Sfondroti, who was ad vanced to the Purple about two Years before his Death . The Abbot takes the Advice and Confent of his Chapter before he enters on any Matter of Importance, as thelevyingofa Tax, or declaring of a War. His chief Lay -Officer is the Grand Maitre ď Hótel, or High Steward of the Houſhold ; who is named by the Abbot, and has the Management of al! Affairs under him . There are ſeveral other Judges N 2 and 1 230 Switzerland. and Diſtributers of Juſtice appointed for the ſeveral Parts of his Dominions, from whom there always lies an Appeal to the Prince. His Reſidence is ge nerally at the Benedi&tine Convent at St. Gaul, not withſtanding the Town of St. Gaul is a little Pro teſtant Republic, wholly independent of the Abbot, and under the Protection of the Cantons. One would wonder to ſee ſo many rich Burgeois in the Town of St. Gaul, and ſo very few poor Peo ple in a Place that has ſcarce any Lands belonging to it , and little or no Income but what ariſes from its Trade. But the great Support and Riches of this little State is in its Linen Manufacture, which em ploys almoſt all Ages and Conditions of its Inhabi tants. The whole Country about them furniſhes them with vaſt Quantities of Flax, out of which they are ſaid to make yearly forty thouſand Pieces of Linen Cloth, reckoning two hundred Ells to the Piece . Some of their Manufacture is as finely wrought as any that can be met with in Holland ; for they have excellent Artiſans, and great Commo dities for whitening. All the Fields about the Town were covered with their Manufacture, that coming in the Dusk of the Evening wemiſtook them for a Lake. They ſend of their Works upon Mules into Italy, Spain, Germany, and all the adjacent Coun tries. They reckon in the Town of St. Gaul, and in the Houſes that lie ſcattered about it, near ten thouſand Souls, of which there are ſixteen hundred Burgeois. They chooſe their Councils and Burgo maſters out of the Body of the Burgeois, as in the other Governments of Switzerland, which are every where of the fame Nature , the difference lying only in the Numbers of ſuch as are employed in State Affairs, which are proportioned to the Grandeur of the States that employ them. The Abbey and the Town Switzerland. 281 Town bear agreat Averſion to one another ; but in the general Diet of the Cantons their Repreſentatives fit together, and act by Concert. The Abbot de puteshis Grand Maitre d'Hôtel, and the Town one of its Burgo -Maſters. About four Years ago , the Town and Abbey would have come to an open Rupture, had it not been timely prevented by the Interpofition of their com mon Protectors. The Occaſion was this. A Bene dictine Monk, in one of their annual Proceſſions, carried his Croſs erected thro' the Town, with a Train of three or four thouſand Pealants following him. They had no ſooner entered the Convent, but the whole Town was in a Tumult, occaſion’d by the Inſolence of the Prieſt, who, contrary to all Precedents, had preſumed to carry his Croſs in that manner. The Burgeois immediately put themſelves in Arms, and drew down four Pieces of their Cannon to the Gates of the Convent. The Proceſſion , to eſcape the Fury of the Citizens, durft not return by the Way it came, but, after the Devotions of the Monks were finiſh'd, paſs’d out of a Back- door of the Convent, that immediately led into the Abbot's Ter ritories. The Abbot on his Part raiſes an Army, blocks up the Town on the side that faces his Do minions, and forbids his Subjects to furniſh it with any of their Commodities. While Things were juſt ripe for a War, the Cantons, their Protectors, inter pos'd as Umpires in the Quarrel, condemning the Town that had appear'd too forward in the Diſpute to a Fine of two thouſand Crowns ; and enacting at the ſame time, That as ſoon as any Proceſſion en ter'd their Walls, the Prieſt ſhould let the Croſs hang about his Neck without touching it with either Hand, 'till he came within the Precincts of the Abbey. The Citizens could bring into the Field near two N 3 thouſand 282 Switzerland. thouſand Men well exercis'd , and arm'd to the beſt Advantage, with which they fancy they could make Head againſt twelve or fifteen thouſand Peaſants ; for ſo many the Abbot could eaſily raiſe in his Terri tories. But the Proteſtant Subjects of the Abbey, who they ſay make up a good Third of its People , would probably, in caſe of a War, abandon the Cauſe of their Prince for that of their Religion, The Town of St. Gaul has an Arſenal, Library, Town - houſes, and Churches proportionable to the Bigneſs of the State. It is well enough fortify'd to relift any fud den Attack , and to give the Cantons time to come to their Aſiſtance. The Abbey is by no means ſo Magnificent as one would expect from its Endow ments. The Church has one huge Nefwith a dou ble Aiſle to it. At each End is a large Quire. The one of them is ſupported by vaft Pillars of Stone, casd over with a Compoſition that looks the moſt like Marble of any thing one can imagine. On the Cieling andWalls of the Church are Liſts of Saints, Martyrs, Popes, Cardinals, Archbiſhops, Kings, and Queens, that have been of the Benedictine Oro der. There are ſeveral Pictures of ſuch as have been diſtinguiſh'd by their Birth, Sanctity, or Miracles, with Inſcriptions that let you into the Name and Hiſtory of the Perſons repreſented . I have often wiſh'd that ſome Traveller would take the Pains to gather together all the modern Inſcriptions which are to be met with in Roman Catholic Countries, as Gruter and others have copied out the ancient Hea then Monuments. Had we two or three Volumes of this Nature, without any of the Collector's own Reflexions, I am ſure there is nothing in the World could give a truer Idea of the Roman Catholic Re ligion , nor expoſe more the Pride, Vanity, and Self Intereſt of Convents, the Abuſe of Indulgencies, the Folly € . Switzerland. 283 Folly and Impertinence of Votaries, and in ſhort: the Superſtition, Credulity, and Childiſhneſs of the Roman Catholic Religion. One might fill ſeveral Sheets at St. Gaul , as there are few conſiderable Con vents or Churches that would not afford large Con tributions. As the King of France diſtributes his Penſions through all the Parts of Switzerland, the Town and Abbey of St. Gaul come in too for their Share. To the firſt he gives five hundred Crowns per Annum, and to the other a thouſand. This Penſion has not been paid theſe three Years, which they attribute to their not acknowledging the Duke of Anjou for King of Spain. The Town and Abbey of St. Gaul carry a Bear in their Arms. The Roman Catholics have this Bear's Memory in very great Veneration, and repreſent him as the firſt Convert their Saint made in the Country . One of the moſt Learned of the Benedi&tine Monks gave me the following Hiſtory of him , which he deliver'd to mewith Țears of Affec tion in his Eyes. St. Gaul, it ſeems, whom they call the great Apoſtle ofGermany, found all this Coun try little better than a vaſt Deſert. As he was walk ing in it on a very cold Day , he chanc'd to meet a Bear in his Way. The Saint, inſtead of being ſtartled at the Rencounter, order'd the Bear to bring him a Bundle of Wood, and make him a Fire. The Bear ſerv'd him to the beſt of his Ability, and at his Departure was commanded by the Saint to retire in to the very Depth of the Woods, and there to paſs the reſt of his Life without ever hurting Man or Beaft. From this time, ſays the Monk,the Bear liv'd irreproachably, and obſerv'd to his dying Day the Orders that the Saint had given him . I have often conſider’d, with a great deal of Plea ſure, the profound Peace and Tranquillity that reigns N 4 in 284 Switzerland. in Switzerland and its Alliances. It is very wone derful to ſee ſuch a Knot of Governments, which are fo divided among themſelves in Matters of Religion , maintain fo uninterrupted an Union and Correſpon dence, that no one ofthem is for invading the Rights of another, but remains content within the Bounds of its firſt Eſtabliſhinent. This, I think, muſt be chiefly aſcribed to the Nature of thePeople, and the Coniti tution of their Governments. Were the Swiſs ani mated by Zeal or Ambition , fome or other of their States would immediately break in upon the reft ; or were the States ſo many Principalities, they might often have an ambitious Sovereign at the Head of them , that would embroil his Neighbours, and ſacri fice the Repoſe of his Subjects to his own Glory. But as the inhabitants of theſe Countries are natu rally of a heavy phlegmatic Temper, if any of their leading Members have more Fire and Spirit than comes to their Share, it is quickly temper'd by the Coldneſs and Moderation of thereſt who fit at the Helm with them . To this we may add , that the Alps is the worſt Spot of Ground in the World to make Conqueſts in, a great Part of its Governments being ſo naturally intrenched among Woods and Mountains. However it be, we find no ſuch Diſor ders among them as one would expect in ſuch a Multitude of States ; for as ſoon as any public Rupture happens, it is immediately clos'd up by the Moderation and good Offices of the reſt that in terpoſe. As all the confiderable Governments among the Alps are Communwealths, ſo indeed it is a Conſtitu tion the moſt adapted of any other to the Poverty and Barrenneſs of theſe Countries. We may fee on ly in a neighbouring Government, the ill ' Confe quence of having a deſpotic Prince, in a state that is Switzerland. 285 is moſt of it compoſed of Rocks and Mountains ; for notwithſtanding there is a vaſt Extent of Lands, and many of them better than thoſe of the Swiſs and Griſons, the common People among the latter are much more at their Eaſe, and in a greater Affu ence of all the Conveniencies of Life. A Prince's Court eats too much into the Income of a poor State , and generally introduces a kind of Luxury and Magnificence, that ſets every particular Perſon upon making a higher Figure in his Station than is generally conſiſtent with his Revenue. It is the great Endeavour of the ſeveral Cantons of Switzerland, to baniſh from among them every thing that looks like Pomp or Superfluity. To this End the Miniſters are always Preaching,and the Governors putting out Edićts, againſt Dancing, Gaming, Entertainments, and fine Clothes. This is becomemore neceſſary in ſomeof the Governments, fince there are ſo many Refugees ſettled among them ; for tho' the Proteſtants in France affect ordia narıly a greater Plainneſs and Simplicity of Manners, than thoſe of the ſame Quality who are of the Roman Catholic Communion, they have however too much of their Country -Galantry for the Genius and Con ftitution of Switzerland. ' Should Dreſſing, Feaſting, and Balls once get among the Cantons, theirMili tary Roughneſs would be quickly loft, their Tem per's would grow too ſoft for their Climate, and their Expences out-run their Incomes ; beſides that the Materials for their Luxury muſt be brought from other Nations, which would immediately ruin a . Country that has few Commodities of its own to export, and is not over- ſtock'd with Money. Luxu ry indeed wounds a Republic in its very Vitals, as its natural Conſequences are Rapine, Avarice, and Injuſtice ; for the more Money à Man ſpends, N 5 the 286 Switzerland. the more muſt be endeavour to augment his Stock ; which at laſt ſets the Liberty and Votes of a Com monwealth to Sale, if they find any Foreign Power that is able to pay the Price of them . We fee no. where the pernicious Effects of Luxury on a Repub lic more than in that of the ancient Romans, who immediately found itſelf poor as ſoon as this Vice got Footing among them , tho'they were poffefsid of all the Riches in the World. We find in the Begin nings and Increaſes of their Commonwealth ſtrange Inſtances of the Contempt of Money, becauſe indeed they were utter Strangers to the Pleaſure that might be procured by it ; or in other Words, becauſe they were wholly ignorant of the Arts of Luxury. But as ſoon as they once enter'd into a Taſte of Pleaſure, Politeneſs, and Magnificence, they fell into a thou fand Violences, Conſpiracies, and Divifions, that threw them into all the Diſorders imaginable, and terminated in the utter Subverſion of the Common wealth . It is no wonder therefore the Com monwealths of Switzerlandare ever labouring at the Suppreſſion and Prohibition of every thing that may introduce Vanity and Luxury. Beſides, the ſeveral Fines that are ſet upon Plays, Games, Balls, and Feaſtings, they have many Cuſtoms among them which very much contribute to the keeping up of their ancient Simplicity . The Burgeois, who are at the Head of the Governments, are obliged to appear at all their public Allemblies in a black Cloke and a Band . " The Womens Dreſs is very plain , thoſe of the beſt Quality wearing nothing on their Heads generally but Furs, which are to be met with in their own Country. The Perſons of diffe rent Qualities in both Sexes are indeed allowed their different Ornaments ; but theſe are generally ſuch as are by no means coſtly, being rather deſign'd as poor Marks Switzerland. 287 Marks of Diſtinction than to make a Figure. The chief Officers of Bern, for Example, are known by the Crowns of their Hats, which are much deeper than thoſe of an inferior Character. The Peaſants are generally clothed in a coarſe kind of Canvas, that is the Manufacture of the Country. Their Holy-day Clothes go from Father to Son, and are : ſeldom worn out, 'till the Second or Third Genera tion : So that it is common enough to ſee a Country man in the Doublet and Breeches of his Great- grand father . Geneva is much polter than Switzerland, or any of its Allies, and is therefore looked upon as the : Court of the Alps, whither the Proteſtant Cantons often ſend their Children to improve themſelves in Language and Education . The Genevois have been very much refin'd , or, as others will have it , cor rupted , by the Converſation of the French Protel tants, who make up almoſt a third of their People. It is certain they have very much forgotten the Ad vice that Calvin gave them in a great Council a little before his Death , when he recommended to thein , above all Things, an Exemplary Modeſty and Humility, and as great a Simplicity in their Männers, as in their Religion. Whether or no they have done well , to ſet up for making another kind of Figure, Time will witneſs. There are ſe veral that fancy the great Sums they have remitted into Italy, though by this means they make their Court to the King of France at preſent, may ſome timeor other give him an Inclination to become the Maſter of fo wealthy a City. As this Collection of little States abounds more in Paſturage than in Corn , they are all provided with their public Granaries, and have the Huma „nity to furniſh one another in public Exigencies, when 288 Switzerland. when the Scarcity is not Univerſal. As the Ad miniſtration of Affairs, relating to theſe public Granaries, is not very different in any of the particular Governments, I ſhall content myſelf to ſet down the Rules obſerved in it by the little Commonwealth of Geneva, in which I had more Time to inform_myſelf of the Particulars than in any other. There are Three of the Little Council deputed for this Office. They are oblig'd to keep together a Proviſion fufficient to feed the People at leaſt two Years, in caſe of War or Fa mine. They muſt take care to fill their Magazines in Times of the greateſt Plenty, that ſo they may afford cheaper, and increaſe the public Revenue at a ſmall Expence of its Members. None of the Three Managers muſt, upon any Pretence, furnith the Granaries from his own Fields, that ſo they may have no Temptation to pay too great a Price, or put any bad Corn upon the Públic. They muſt buy up no Corn growing within twelve Miles of Geneva , that ſo the filling of their Magazines, may not prejudice their Market, and raiſe the Price of their Proviſions at Home. That ſuch a Collection of Corn may not ſpoil in keeping, all the Inns and Public-Houſes are obliged to furniſh themſelves out of it , by which means is raiſed the moſt confider able Branch of the public Revenues ; the Corn being ſold out at amuch dearer Rate than’tis bought up. So that the greateſt Income of the Common wealth, which pays the Penſions of moſt of its Officers and Minifters, is raiſed on Strangers and Travellers, or ſuch of their own Body as have Money enough to ſpend at Taverns and Public Houſes. Switzerland. 289 It is the Cuſtom in Geneva and Switzerland, to divide their Eftates equally among all their Children , by which means every one lives at his Eaſe without growing dangerous to the Republic ; for as foon as an overgrownEſtate falls into the Hands of one that has many Children , it is broken into ſo many Por tions as render the Sharers of it rich enough, with out raiſing them too much above the Level of the reſt. This is abſolutely neceſſary in theſe little Re publics, wherethe rich Merchants live very much within their Eſtates, and by heaping up vaſt Sums from Year to Year might become formidable to the reſt of their Fellow - Citizens, and break the Equa lity, which is fo neceſſary in theſe kinds of Go vernments, were there not means found out to dif tribute their Wealth among ſeveral Members of their Republic. At Geneva, for Inſtance, are Mer chants reckon'd worth Twenty Hundred Thouſand Crowns, though, perhaps, there is not one of them who ſpends to the value of Five Hundred Pounds a Year. Though the Proteſtants and Papiſts know very well, that it is their common Intereſt to keep a ſteddy Neutrality in all the Wars between the States of Europe, they cannot forbear fiding with a Party in * their Diſcourſe. The Catholics are zealous for the French King, as the Proteſtants do not a little glory in the Riches, Power, and good Succeſs of the Eng liſh and Dutch, whom they look upon as the Bul warks of the Reformation, The Miniſters in parti cular have often preached againſt ſuch of their Fel low -Subjects as enter into the Troops of the French King ; but ſo long as the Swiſs fee their Intereſt in it, their Poverty will always hold them faſt to his Service. They have indeed the Exerciſe of their Re ligion, 290 Switzerland. ligion , and their Miniſters with them ; which is the more remarkable , becauſe the very fame Prince rę fus'd even thoſe of the Church of England, who fol low'd their Maſter to St. Germains, the public Ex erciſe of their Religion. Before I leave Switzerland, I cannot but obferve, that the Notion of Witchcraft reigns very much in this Country. I have often been tired with Accounts of this Nature from very ſenſible Men that are moſt of them furniſh'd with Matters of Fact which have happen'd , as they pretend , within the compaſs of their own Knowledge. It is certain there have been many Executions on this Account, as in the Can ton of Bern there were fome put to death during my Stav at Geneva. The People are ſo univerſally infatuated with the Notion , that , if a Cow falls fick , it is Ten to One bilt an old Woman is clap'd up in Priſon for it ; and if the poor Creature chance to think herſelf a Witch, the whole Country is for hanging her up without Mercy. One finds indeed the ſame Humour prevail in moſt of the rocky bar ren Parts of Europe. Whether it be that Poverty and Ignorance, which are generally the Products of theſe Countries, may really engage a Wretch in ſuch dark Practices, or whether or no the ſame Princi. ples may not render the People too credulous, and perhaps too eaſy to get rid ofſome of their unprofita ble Members. A great Affair that employs the Swiſs Politics at preſent is the Prince of Conti's Succeſſion to the Dutcheſs of Nemours in the Government of Neuf Chatel. The Inhabitants of Neuf-Chatel can by no means think of fubmitting themſelves to a Prince, who is a Roman Catholic , and a Subject of France. They were very attentive to his Conduct in the Pril Switzerland . 291 Principality of Orange, which they did not queſtion but he would Rule with all the Mildneſs and Mo deration imaginable, as it would be the beſt Means in the World to recommend him to Neuf -Chatel. But notwithſtanding it was ſo much his Intereſt to manage his Proteſtant Subjects in that Country, and the ſtrong Aſſurances he had given them in protect ing them in all their Privileges, and particularly in the free Exerciſe of their Religion, he made over his Principality in a very little time, for a Sum of Money, to the King of France. It is indeed gene rally believed the Prince of Conti would rather ſtill have kept his Title to Orange; but the fame Re fpect, which induced him to quit this Government, might at another time teinpt him to give up that of Neuf-Chatel on the like Conditions. The King of Pruſia lays in his Claim for Neuf-Chatel, as he did for the Principality of Orange, and 'tis probable would be more acceptable to the Inhabitants than the other ; but they are generally diſpos'd to declare themſelves a free Commonwealth , after the Death of the Dutcheſs of Nemours, if the Swiſs will ſupport them . The Proteſtant Cantons ſeem much inclined to aſſiſt them, which they may very well do, in cafe the Dutcheſs dies, whilſt the King of France has his Hands ſo full of Buſineſs on all ſides of him . It certainly very much concerns them not to ſuffer the French King to eſtabliſh his Authority on this fide Mount Fura, and on the very Borders of their Country ; but it is not eaſy to foreſee what a round Sum of Money, or the Fear of a Rupture with France, may do among a Penple, who have tamely fuffer'd thé Franche Compte to be ſeiz'd on , and a Fort to be built within Cannon - thot of one of their Cantons, There 292 Switzerland. There is a new Seet ſprung up in Switzerland , which ſpreads very much in the Proteſtant Cantons, The Profeſſors of it call themſelves Pietiſts : And as Enthuſiaſm carries Men generally to the like Extravagancies, they differ but little from ſeveral Sectaries in other Countries. They pretend in ge neral to great Refinements, as to what regards the Practice of Chriſtianity, and to obſerve the follow ing Rules. To retire much from the Converſa tion of the World : To fink themſelves into an in tire Repoſe and Tranquillity of Mind : In this State of Silence, to attend the ſecret Illapſe and Flowings in of the Holy Spirit, that may fill their Minds with Peace and Conſolation, Joys or Rap tures : To favour all his ſecret Intimations, and give themſelves up intirely to his Conduct and Di rection, ſo as neither to ſpeak, move or act, but as they find his Impulſe on their Souls : To re trench themſelves within the Conveniencies and Neceſſities of Life : To make a Covenant with all their Senſes, ſo far as to Phun the Smell of a Roſe or Violet, and to turn away their Eyes from a beautiful Proſpect : To avoid , as much as is poffi ble, what the World calls Innocent Pleaſures , left they ſhould have their Affections tainted by any Senſuality , and diverted from the Love of him , who is to be the only Comfort, Repoſe, Hope, and Delight of their whole Beings. This Sect prevails very much among the Proteſtants of Germany, as well as thoſe of Switzerland, and has occafion'd feveral Edicts againſt it in the Dutchy of Saxony. The Profeſſors. of it are accus'd of all the ill Prac tices, which may ſeem to be the Conſequence of their Principles ; as that they aſcribe the worſt of Actions, which their own vicious Tempers throw Switzerland. 293 i throw them upon , to the Dictates of the Holy Spi rit ; that both Sexes, under Pretence of devout Converſation , viſit one another at all Hours, and in all Places, without any regard to common Decency, often making their Religion a Cover for their Immo ralities ; and that the very beſt of them are poſſeſs’d with Spiritual Pride, and a Contempt for all ſuch as are not of their own Sect. The Roman Catholics, who reproach the Proteſtants for their breaking into ſuch a multitude of Religions, have certainly taken the moſt effectual way in the World forthe keeping their Flocks together ; I don'tmean the Puniſhments they inflict on MensPerſons, which are commonly look'd upon as the chief Methods by which they de ter them from breaking through the Pale of the Church, though certainlytheſe lay a very greatRe ſtraint on thoſe of the Roman Catholic Perſuaſion . But I take one great Cauſe, why there are ſo few Sects in the Church of Rome, to be the multitude of Convents, with which they every where abound , that ſerve as Receptacles for all thoſe fiery Zealots who would ſet the Church in a Flame, were not they got together in theſe Houſes of Devotion . All Menof dark Tempers, according to their Degree of Melancholyor Enthuſiaſm , may find Convents fitted to their Humours, and meet with Companions as gloomy as themfelves. So that what the Pro teſtants would call a Fanatic, is , in the Roman Church, a Religious of ſuch or ſuch an Order ; as I have been told of an Engliſh Merchant at Lisbon , who, after ſome great Diſappointments in the World, was reſolv'd to turn Quaker or Capucin; for, in the Change of Religion , Men of ordinary Underſtand ings don't ſo much conſider the Principles, as the Practice of thoſe to whom they go over, From 294 Switzerland. From St. Gaul I took Horſe to the Lake of Conſtance, which lies at two Leagues diſtance from it , and is form'd by the Entry of the Rhine. This is the only Lake in Europe that diſputes for Great neſs with that of Geneva ; it appears more beauti ful to the Eye, but wants the fruitful Fields and Vineyards that border upon the other. It receives its Name from Conſtance, the chief Town on its Banks. When the Cantons of Bern and Zurich propoſed, at a general Diet, the Incorporating Ge neva in the number of the Cantons, the Roman Catholic Party, fearing the Proteſtant Intereſt might receive by it too great a Strengthning, pro .. poſed at the ſame time the Incantoning of Con stance, as a Counterpoiſe; to which the Proteſtants not conſenting, the whole Project fell to the ground. We crofs'd the Lake to Lindaw , and in ſeveral parts of it obſerved abundance of little Bubbles of Air, that came working upward from the very Bot tom of the Lake. The Watermen told us, that they are obſerved always to riſe in the fame Places, from whence they conclude them to be fo many Springs that break out of the Bottom of the Lake. Lindaw is an Imperial Town on a little Iſland that lies at about three hundred Paces from the firm Land, to which it is join’d by a huge Bridge ofWood. The Inhabitants were all in Arms when we paſs’d through it , being under great Apprehen fions of the Duke of Bavaria , after his having fallen upon Ulm and Memmingben . They flatter them ſelves, that by cutting their Bridge they could hold out againſt his Army: But, in all probability, a Shower of Bombs would quickly reduce the Bur geois to ſurrender. They were formerly Bombard ed by Guftavus. Adolphus. We were advis'd by Our Switzerland. 295 our Merchants, by no means to venture ourſelves in the Duke of Bavaria's Country, ſo that we had the Mortification to loſe the sight of Munich , Auf burg and Ratisbon , and were forced to take our Way to Vienna through the Tirol, where we had very little to entertain us beſide the natural face of the Country . TIROL T I RO L, IN SPRUCK, HALL, & c . FTER having coafted the Alps for ſome time, we at laſt entered them by a Paſſage which leads into the long Valley of the Tirol ; and fol lowing the Courfe of the River Inn, wecameto Inſpruck, thatreceives its Name from this River, and is the Capital City of the Tirol. Inſpruck is a handſom Town, though not a great one, and was formerly the Reſidence of the Arch Dukes who were Counts of Tirol : The Palace where they uſed to keep their Court is rather Convenient than Magnificent. The great Hall is indeed a very noble Room : the Walls of it are painted in Freſco, and repreſent the Labours of Hercules. Many of them look very finely, though a great Part of the Work has been crack'd by Earthquakes which are very frequent in this country . There is a little Wooden Palace that borders on the other, whither the Court uſed to retire at the firſt ſhake of an Earthquake. I ſaw here the largeſt Manage that I have met with any where elſe. At one end of it is a great Partition deſigned for an Opera. They fhowed Tirol, Inſpruck, Hall, &c. 297 ſhowed us alſo a very pretty Theater. The laſt Comedy that was acted on it was deſigned by the Tefuits for the Entertainment of the Queen of the Romans, who paſſed this way from Hanover to Vienna. The Compliment, which the Fathers made her Majeſty on this Occafion , was very particular, and did not a little expoſe them to the Rallery of the Court. For the Arms of Hanover being a Horſe, the Fathers thought it a very pretty Alluſion to re preſent the Queen by Bucephalus, that would let no Body get upon him but Alexander the Great. The Wooden Horſe that acted this notable Part is ſtill to be ſeen behind the Scenes. In one of the Rooms of the Palace, which is hung with the Pictures of ſeveral Illuſtrious Perſons, they ſhowed us the Por trait of Mary Queen of Scots, who was beheaded in the Reign ofQueen Elizabeth. The Gardens about the Houſe are very large, but ill kept. There is in the middle of them a beautiful Statue in Braſs of an Arch- Duke Leopold on Horſeback. There are near it twelve other Figures of Water -Nymphs and River -Gods, well calf, and as big as the Life. They were deſigned for the Ornaments of a Water Work, as one might eaſily make a great Variety of Jetteaus, at a ſmall Expence, in a Garden that has the River Inn running by its Walls. The late Duke of Lorrain had this Palace, and the Govern ment of the Tirol , aſſigned him by the Emperor, and his Lady the Queen Dowager of Poland lived here ſeveral Years after the Death of the Duke her Husband. There are covered Galleries that lead from the Palace tofive different Churches. I paſſed through a very long one, which reaches to the Church of the Capucin Convent, where the Duke of Lorrain uſed often to affiſt at their Midnight Devotions. They ſhowed us in this Convent the Apart 298 Tirol, Inſpruck, Hall, &c. + Apartments of Maximilian, who was Arch- Duke and Count of Tirol about Fourſcore Years ago. This Prince, at the ſame time that he kept the Govern. ment in his Hands, lived in this Convent with all the Rigour and Auſterity of a Capucin. His Anti chamber and Room of Audience are little ſquare Chambers Wainſcoted. His private Lodgings are three or four ſmall Rooms faced with a kind of Fret work, that makes them look like little Hollow Ca. verns in a Rock. They preſerve this Apartment of the Convent uninhabited , and ſhow in it the Altar, Bed and Stove, as likewiſe a Picture and a Stamp of this Devout Prince. The Church of the Frana cifcan Convent is famous for the Monument of the Emperor Maximilian the Firſt, which ſtands in the midſt of it. It was erected to him by his Grand Son Ferdinand the Firſt, who probably looked upon this Emperor as the Founder of the Auſtrian Great nefs. For as by his own Marriage he annexed the Low - Countries to the Houſe of Auſtria , fo, by matching his Son to yoan of Arragon, he ſettled on his Poſterity the Kingdom of Spain, and, by the Marriage of his Grand-Son Ferdinand,got into his Family the Kingdoms of Bohemia and Hungary. This Monument is only Honorary ; for the Aſhes of the Emperor lie elſewhere. On the Top of it is a Brazen Figure of Maximilian on his Knees, and on the sides of it a beautiful Bas-Relief repreſenting the Actions of this Prince . His whole Hiſtory is digeſted into Twenty Four ſquare Pannels of Sculp ture in Bas- Relief. The Subject of two of them is his Confederacy with Henry the Eighth, and the Wars they made together upon France. On each Side of this Monument is a Row of very noble Brazen Statues much bigger than the Life, moſt of them repreſenting ſuch as were ſome way or other related Tirol, Inſpruck, Hall, & c. 299

related to Maximilian . Among the reſt is one that the Fathers of the Convent tell us repreſents King Arthur the old Britiſh King. But what Relation had that Arthur to Maximilian ? I don't queſtion therefore but it was deſigned for Prince Arthur, El der Brother of Henry the Eighth , who had eſpouſed Catharine, Siſter of Maximilian, whoſe Divorce afterwards gave occaſion to ſuch fignal Revolutions in England . This Church was built by Ferdinand the firſt. One fees in it a kind of Offer at Modern Architecture ; but at the ſame time that the Archi tect has ſhown his Diſlike of the Gothic manner, one may ſee very well that in that Age they were not, at leaſt in this Country , arrived at the Know ledge of the true Way. The Portal, for Example, conſiſts of a Compoſite Order unknown to the An cients the Ornaments indeed are taken from them , but ſo together, that you ſee the Volutes of the Ionic, the Foliage of the Corinthian, and Uovali of the Doric, mix'd without any Regularity on the fame Capital. So the Vault of the Church , tho' broad enough , is incumber'd with too many little Tricks in Sculpture. It is indeed ſupported with ſingle Columns, inſtead of thoſe vaft Cluſters of little Pillars that one meets with in Gothic Cathedrals ; but at the ſame time theſe Columns are of no regular Order, and at leaſt twice too long for their Dia meter. There are other Churches in the Town, and two or three Palaces which are of a more Modern Make, and built with a good Fancy. I was ſhown the little Nôtredame that is handſomly de ſign'd, and topp'd with a Cupola. It was made as an Offering of Gratitude to the Bleſſed Virgin , for having defended the Country of the Tirol againſt the Victorious Arms of Guftavus Adolphus, who could not enter this part of the Empire after having over run 300 Tirol, Inſpruck, Hall, &c. run moſt of the reſt. The Temple was therefore built by the Contributions of the whole Country, At about half a League's diſtance from Inſpruck ſtands the Caſtle of Amras, furnith'd with a pro digious Quantity of Medals, and many other forts of Rarities both in Nature and Art, for which I muſt refer the Reader to Monſieur Patin's Account in his Letter to the Duke of Wirtemberg, having myſelf had neither Time nor Opportunity to enter into a particular Examination of them . From Inſpruck we came to Hall, that lies at a League diſtance on the ſame River. This Place is particulary famous for its Salt- Works. There are in the Neighbourhood vaft Mountains of a tranſparent kind of Rock not unlike Allum , extremely folid , and as piquant to the Tongue as Salt itſelf . Four or five Hundred Men are always at work in theſe Mountains, where, as ſoon as they have hewn down any Quantities of the Rock , they let in their Springs and Reſervoirs among their Works. The Water eats away and diffolves the Particles of Salt which are mix'd in the Stone, and is convey'd bylong Troughs and Canals from the Mines to the Town of Hall, where ' tis received in vaſt Ciſterns, and boil'd off from time to time. They make after the rate of eight Hundred Loaves a Week, each Loaf four Hundred Pound Weight. This would raiſe a great Revenue to the Emperor, were there here ſuch a Tax on Salt as there is in France. At preſent he clears but two hun dred Thouſand Crowns a Year, after having defray'd all the Charges of working it. There are in Switzer land, and other parts of the Alps, ſeveral of theſe Quarries of Salt , that turn to very little Account, by reaſon of the great Quantities of Wood they conſume The Tirol, Inſpruck, Hall, &c. 301 The Salt -Works at Hall have a great Conveni ence for Fuel, which ſwims down to them on the River Inn. This River during its Courſe through the Tirol, is generally ſhut up between a double Range of Mountains that are moſt of them cover'd with Woods of Fir Trees. Abundance of Peaſants are employ'd in the hewing down of the largeſt of theſe Trees, that, after they are bark'dand cutinto Shape, are tumbled down from the Mountains into the Stream of the River, which carries them off to the Salt-Works. At Inſpruck they take up vaſt Quan tities for the Convents and public Officers, who have a certain Portion of it allotted them by tħe Em peror : the reſt of it paſſes on to Hall. There are generally ſeveral hundred Loads afloat ; for they be gin to cut above twenty Leagues up the River above Hall ; and there are other Rivers that flow into the Inn, which bring in their Contributions . Theſe Salt- Works, and a Mint that is eſtabliſh'd at the fame Place, have render'd this Town, notwithſtand ing the Neighbourhood of the Capital City, almoſt as populous as Inſpruck itſelf. The Deſign of this Mint is to work off part of the Metals which are found in the neighbouring Mountains ; where, as we were told , there are ſeven Thouſand Men in conftant Employ. At Hall we took a Boat to carry us to Vienna. The firſt Night we lay at Rottenburg, where is a ſtrong Caſtle above the Town. Count Serini is ſtill a cloſe Priſoner in this Caſtle, who, as they told us in the Town, had loſt his Senſes by his long Impriſonment and Affiiétions. The next Day we din'd at Kuff ſtain , where there is a Fortreſs on a high Rock , above the Town, almoſt inacceffi ble on all Sides : This being a Frontier Place on the Dutchy of Bavaria, where we enter'd after about plea 302 Tirol, Inſpruck, Hall, &c. fanteſt Voyage in the World, to follow the Windings of this River Inn through ſuch a Variety of pleaſing Scenes as the Courſe of it naturally led us. We had ſometimes on each side of us a vaft Extent of naked Rocks and Mountains, broken into a Thouſand ir segular Steeps and Precipices ; in other places wę ſaw a long Foreſt of Fir - Trees, ſo thick ſet together, that it was impoſſible to diſcover any of the Soil they grew upon, and riſing up ſo regularly oneabove another, as to give us the View of a whole Wood at once. Thetime of the Year, that had given the Leaves of the Trees ſo many different Colours, compleated the Beauty of the Proſpect. But as the Materials of a fine Landskip are not always the molt profitable to the owner of them, we met with but very little Corn or Paſturage for the Proportion of Earth that we paſs'd through, the Lands of the Tirol not being able to feed the inhabitants. This Jong Valley of the Tirol lies incloſed on all Sides by the Alps, tho'its Dominions ſhoot out into ſeveral Branches that lie among the Breaks and Hollows of the Mountains. It is govern'd by three Councils reliding at Inſpruck ; one fits upon Life and Death , the other is for Taxes and Impofitions, and a third for the common Diſtributions of Juſtice. As there Courts regulate themſelves by the Orders they receive from the Imperial Courts, fo in many caſes there are Appeals from them toVienna. The Inhabitants of the Tirol have many particular Privileges above thoſe of the other Hereditary Countries of the Em. peror. For as they are naturally well fortify'd among their Mountains, and at the ſame time border upon many different Governments, as the Griſons, Venetians, Swiſs, Bavarians, & c . a ſevere Treat ment might tempt them to ſet up for a Republic , er at lealt throw themſelves under the milder Go vernment Tirol, Inſpruck, Hall, & c. 303 vernment of ſome of their Neighbours : Beſides that their Country is poor, and that the Emperor draws conſiderable Incomes out of its Mines of Salt and Metal. They are theſe Mines that fill the Country with greater Numbers of People than it would be able to bear without the Importation of Corn from Foreign Parts. The Emperor has Forts and Cita dels at the ntrance of all the Paſſes that lead into the Tirol, which are fo advantageouſly placed upon Rocksand Mountains, that they command all the Valleys and Avenues that lie about them . Beſides that the Country itſelf is cut into ſo many Hills and Inequalities , as would render it defenſible by a very little Army againſt a numerous Enemy. It was therefore generally thought the Duke of Bava ria would not attempt the cutting off any Succours that were ſent to Prince Eugene, or the forcing his Way through the Tirol into Italy. The River Inn, that had hitherto been ſhut up among Mountains, paffes generally through a wide open Country during all its Courſe through Bavaria ,which is a Voyage of two Days, after the rate of twenty Leagues a Day. . 03 INDEX ? I N D E X. A: Milan, 30. DDA, and the Addige, both deſcrib'd by Clau dian, Page 43, 44: Albano, for what famous, 219. dips, deſcrib'd by Silius Italicus, 256. St. Ambroſe, his reſolute Behaviour towards Theodofius the Great, before the Gates of the great Church at Ambrofian Library in Milan how furniſh'd, 32. Ancona, its Situation , go. St. Anthony of Padua, his magnificent Church , 47, a na tural Perfume iffuing from his Bones, ibid. a Con jecture upon it , ibid. his famous Sermon to an Ar ſembly of Fish, 47. the Titles given him by a poor Peaſant, 53. Antiquaries, wherein faulty , 189. Antiquities, two Sets in Rome, 176. the great Diffe rence between ' em , 177. Antium, its extenſive Ruins, 170. for what famous for merly, 171 . Anxur, its pleaſant Situation, 117. deſcrib’d by Mare tiai, & c . ibid . Apennine Mountains deſcrib'd by the Latin Poets, 246. Ariofo, his Monument in the Benedictine Church in Ferrara, 75 B. Baiæ , the Winter Retreat of the old Romans, 139. St. Bartholomew , his famous Statue in the great Church in Milan, 28 . Bern, its public Walks, 273. and Arſenal, 274. Bolonia, for what famous, 248. its Rarities, ibid . Breſcia, 1 IN DE X. Breſcia, why more favour'd by the Venetians than any other Part of their Dominions, 42. famous for its Iron Works, ibid. C. Calvin, his Advice to the Genevoisbefore his Death , 287. Caprea, deſcrib’d, 150 , &c. its fruitful Soil, ibid. ſo me Account of the Medals found in it, 156 . Callis, a French Port, its pleaſant Neighbourhood, 13 . Cennis, a Mountain between Turin and Geneva, 254. St. Charles Borromeo his ſubterraneous Chapel in Milan, 28. an Account of that Saint, ibid . compar'd with . the ordinary Saints in the Roman Church , 29. Cimmerians, where placed by Homer, 167 . Civita Vecchia , its unwholſom Air, 229. Clitimnus, the Quality of its Waters, 95 . Colonna Infame, a Pillar at Milan, 34. the Occaſion of it, ibid . Confeſſionals, Inſcriptions over them , 31. . E. Engliſh courted by the preſent Pope to ſettle at Civita Vecchia, 229. Eſcargatoire, the uſe of it, 277. F Fano, from whence ſo callid , 90. Felix the Fifth , his Story, 261, 262 . Ferrara, thinly inhabited, 75. the Town deſcrib'd, ibid. Florence, 235. an Account of its public Buildings , ibid . its famous Gallery, 236. and Rarities contain'd in it, ibid . &c . and in ſomeChambers adjoining to it, 240, &c. famous for modern Statues, 245: Duke's Care to prevent Civita Vecchia from being made a free Port, 228. incens’d : againſt the Lucqueſe, 231 .. for what Reaſon , 232 . Fortune. Two Fortunes worſhipp'd by the Heathens at Antium , 170. Four , the great 0 3 I N D E X. G. Fountains in Switzerland , a Reaſon given for their Pe riodical Fluxes , 262 . Fribourg deſcribid , 271. with an: Hermitage near it , 272. St. Gaul, Abbot of, the Extent of his Territories, 279 . manner of his Election , ibid. the Riches of the in habitants , 280. their Quarrel with the Abbot, 281 . the Abbey, 282. their Arms, 283 . St. Gaul, the great Apoſtle of Germany, fome Account of him , 283 . Geneva, its Situation, 258. under the Emperor's Dif pleaſure , and for what Reaſon, 270. eſteem'd the Court of the Alps, 287 . Genoefe, their Manners deſcrib'd, 17. their Character from the modern Italians, and Latin Poets, 17 , 18. an Inſtance of their Indiſcretion, 21. why oblig'd to be at preſent in the French Intereft, ibid. ' their Fleet, and its Service, 22. their Doge claims a Crown and Scepter from their Conqueſt of Corfica, ibid. an Ad vantage ariſing to ' em from it, and a different Maxim obſerved by the ancient Romans, 22 . Genoa , its Deſcription , 18 , &c. its Banks no Burden to the Genoeſe, 21. why uncapable of being made a free Port , 229. St. George, his Church at Verona, 46. Granaries, the Adminiſtration of 'em in Switzerland, 287 . Gratto del Cani, fome Experiments made in it , 140, 141. Reaſons offer’d for the Effects of its Vapours, 141, 142. Grotto Obſcuro, 154: Gulf of Genoa, its Nature, 15. H. Hall, its Salt Work , 300. the Method of preparing 'em , ibid, its Mint, 301 . Henry the Eighth of England, his Letter to Anne of Bulloyn, 211 , Her, Ι Ν D Ε Χ . Hercules Monæcus, 16. Homer, bis Apotheoſis, 199. I. Jeſuits, their particular Compliment to the Queen of the Romans in a Comedy deſign'd for her Entertainment, 297. In pruck, its public Buildings, 296. I thia, by the Ancients call's Inarime, 163. fome Ac count of it, ibid . Italjans, the uſual Furniture oftheir Libraries, 32. com par'd to the French, 37. the difference of Manners in the two Nations, 38. the great Averſion to the French obſerv'd in the common People, ibid. fome Reaſonsfor it , 39. their extravagant Tombſtones, 46. the Difference betwixt their Poetical and Profe Lan guage, 66. a great Help to their modern Poetry ,67: their Comedies low and obſcene, ibid . a Reaſon for it, 68. the chief Parts in all their Comedies, ibid . a great Cuſtom among ' em of crowning the Holy Virgin , 79: Italy divided into many Principalities, as more natural to its Situation , 36. its preſent Deſolation , 112, compar'd to its ancient Inhabitans, ibid. Siſpita, or Sofpita , how repreſented, 240. Tully's Deſcription of this Goddeſs, ibid. St. Juſtina, her Church one of the fineſt in Italy, 55: Fung dian, 44. L. Lago di Como, formerly Larius, 42. deſcrib'd by Clan Lago di Garda, or Benacus deſcrib'd by Virgil, 43. Lapis Vituperii, what, and to what uſe apply'd , 55. Laufanne, 267. a peculiar Privilege belonging to one Street in this Town, ibid. Lawyers , their great Numbers, and continual Employ ment amongthe Neapolitans, 127 . Leghorn, 226.a free Port, ibid, the great Reſort of other I N D E X. other Nations to it, 227. the Advantage the Great Duke receives from it, ibid, &c . Lemanus, the Lake deſcrib'd, 259, &c . with the Towns upon it, 260. Lindaw , 294. Liris, or the Garigliano deſcrib'd, 116. Loretto, its prodigious Riches, 93. why never attack'd by the Turks, ibid. or the Chriſtian Princes, ibid . a Deſcription of the Holy Houſe, 94. Lucan, his Prophecy of the Latian Towns, 221 . Lucca , the Induſtry of its Inhabitants, 231. under the King of Spain's Protection , 232. in danger of Ruin, ibid.the great Contempt the Inhabitants have of the Florentines, 233. why never attempted as yet by the Great Duke, ibid. the form of its Government, 234. Ludlow , Edmund , his Epitaph, 264. M. St. Marino, its Situation, 84. the Extent of its Domi. nions, 85. the Founder, and Original of this little Republic, ibid . the Antiquity of it, 86. the Forin of the Government, 87 , &c. Mary Magdalene, the Deſerts render'd famous by her Penance, 13. defcrib'd by Claudian, 14. Maximilian, the firſt Founder of the Auſtrian Greatnefs, 298 Meldingen, a little Republic in Switzerland, 277. the Model of its Government, ibid, and Buſineſs of the Councils of State, 278 . Milan, its great Church, 27, &c. the Relics and great Riches contain'd in it, 30. the Citadel, 36. the Situ ation of its State, ibid . an Affectation of the French Dreſs and Carriage in the Court, 37. Milan de fcrib'd by Aufonius, 40. Mincio, deſcrib'd by Virgil, 43. and Claudian , 44. Miſeno, its Cape deſcribd, 162. its Set of Galleries, 163. Modina, I N D E X. Modena, the Extent of its Dominions, and Condition of the Inhabitants , 250. Monaco, its Harbour deſcrib'd by Lucan, 16. its Do minions , ibid. Monte Circeio, why ſuppos'd by Homer to have been an Iſland, 168. Æneas his Paſſage near it deſcrib'd by Virgil, ibid . Monte Novo, how formid , 143. Morge, its Artificial Port, 267. Morpheus, why repreſented under the figure of a Boy, 238, 239. in what manner addreſs'd to by Statius, 239. N. Naples, 121. its many Superftitions, 122. its delighful Bay, 124. deſcrib'd by Silius Italicus, 147. its plea fant Situation, 126. the litigious Temper of the In habitants, 127. different from what it was in Statius his Time, ibid. the great Alteration of the adjacent Parts from what they were formerly, 134. the natu ral Curioſities about it, 140. Narni, why ſo call’d , 102. Neapolitans addicted to Eafe and Pleaſure, 129. the Reaſon, ibid. Nemi, why ſo call’d, 218. Nettuno, for what remarkable, 170. 0. Ocriculum , its Ruins , 103. Oſtia, deſcrib'd by Juvenal, 173. P. Padua , its Univerſity, 55. the Original of Padua from Virgil, 55, 56. Parker, an Engliſh Ecclefiaftic, his Epitaph on his Tomb in Pavia , 25 . Parma, its famous Theatre, 249. the Extent of its Do minions, 250. and Condition of the Inhabitants, ibid. Pavia , I N D E X. Pavia, its Deſcription , 23, & c. why called Ticinum by the Ancients, 26. Pauſilypo's Grotto, 132. the beautiful Proſpect of its Mount, 161 . St. Peter's Church at Rome deſcrib'd , 109. the Reaſon of its double Dome, 110. its beautiful Architecture , III . Pietiſts, a new Sect in Switzerland, 292. Pijatello, fee Rubicon . Piſauro, Dogeof Venice, his Elogium , 61. Po, deſcrib'd by Lucan, 72. Scaliger's Critic upon it, 73. deſcrib'd by Claudian, 252. Pope, his Territories very defolate, 112. and the In . habitants poor, 114. Reaſons for it, ibid. Puteoli, its Remains near Naples, 134. its Mole miſtaken for Caligula's Bridge, 135. the Error confuted , ibid. 1 R. Ravenna, 75. its ancient Situation according to Martial, 76. and Silius Italicus, ibid . the City and adjacent Parts deſcribid , ibid. &c. its great Scarcity of freſh Water, 107 St. Rema a Genoefe Town , deſcribd , 15. Rhone, fome Account of it, 269. Rimini, its Antiquities, 80. Rome, the Modern ſtands higher than the Ancient, 176. the Grandeur of the Commonwealth , and Magnifi cence of the Emperors differently confider'd , 177. its Rarities , ibid. & c. and Conſiderations upon them , ibid. why more frequented by the Nobility in Sam mer than in Winter, 220. Romulus, his Cottage deſcrib'd by Virgil, 95 : Rubicon, call'd at preſent Pijatello, deſcrib'd by Lucan, 79, 80. S. Sannazarius, his Verſes upon Venice, 70. Sienna, 224. ifs Cathedral, ibid. Snow INDE X. Snow monopoliz'd at Naples, 146. Soleurre, the Reſidence of the French Ambaſſadors, 276. Soračte, call’d by the modern Italians St. Oreſte, 103 . Spaniards, their Policy obſerv'd in the Governmentof Naples, 126, 128, 129. Spoletto, its Antiquities, 95 Suffolk, Duke of, bury'd in Pavia , 24. the Infcription on his Tomb, ibid . his Hiftory, 25. Switzerland, its wonderful Tranquillity, 283. the Rea ſon for it, 284. the Thrift of its Inhabitants, 285 . the Reaſon for it, ibid. their Dreſs, 286. their Cuſtom in bequeathing their Eftates, 289. their Notion of Witchcraft, 290. T. Terni, why call'd formerly Interamna, 97. Theatines, their Convent in Ravenna, 78 . Tiber, an Account of it from Virgil, 173. its great Riches, 196. Ticinus, or Teſin, a River near Pavia, 26. deſcrib'd by Silius Italicus, ibid . and Claudian, 44. Timavus, deſcribd by Claudian, 44. Tirol, the particular Privileges of its Inhabitants, 302 . Turiv, a Convenience particular to it, 254. the Aver fion of the common People to the French, ibid . V. Velina Roſea Rura, why call'd fo by Virgil, 99. the Caſcade form’d by the Fall of that River, 160. Venetians, their Thirſt after too many Conqueſts on the Terra Pirma prejudicial to the Commonwealth, 62 . wherein, ibid . the Republic in a declining Condition, ibid. on what Terms with the Emperor, ibid. the Pope and Duke of Savoy, 63. their Senate the wiſeft Council in the World, ibid . the refin'd Parts of their Wiſdom , ibid. their great Secrecy in Matters of State, ibid . an Inſtance of it, 64. the Number of their I N D E X. their Nobility, ibid . their Operas, 65. a Cuſtom peculiar to the Venetians, 69. a Show particular to them exhibited on Holy Thurſday, ibid. deſcrib’d by Claudian, 70. Venice, its advantageous Situation, 57. convenient for Commerce, 58. its Trade declining, 59. the Reaſon of it , ibid. its Deſcription , 59, 60. remarkable for its Pictures from the beſt Hands, 60. the Moiſture of its Air, ibid. its Arſenal, 61. its Carnival, 65. the Neceflity and Conſequences of it, ibid . &c. Venus, her Chambers, 138. Verona, its Amphitheatre, 44. its Antiquities , 45. Veſuvio defcrib'd , 143, & c. much different from Martial's Account of it, 152. Virgil's Tomb, 132. Ulles, his Voyage undetermin'd by the Learned , 14. Volturno deſcrib'd , 116. 2. Zurich , an Account of it, 278. F IN1 1 S. < :

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