Paco Rabanne
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| - | '''Paco Rabanne''', (born '''Francisco Rabaneda Cuervo''' on [[February 18]] [[1934]] in [[San Sebastián]] (Donostia in [[Basque language|Basque]]) in the Spanish [[Basque Country (autonomous community)|Basque Country]]), is a [[fashion designer]]. He fled Spain for [[France]] with his mother when the [[Spanish Civil War]] broke out. He originally had an architect's education but became known as the ''[[enfant terrible]]'' of French fashion world in the [[1960s]]. | + | '''Paco Rabanne''' (18 February 1934 – 3 February 2023) was a French-Spanish fashion designer who became known as an ''[[enfant terrible]]'' of the [[1960s in fashion|1960s]] French fashion world. He gain notoriety for revolutionizing "space-age" fashion designs. |
| - | Rabanne started his career in fashion by creating jewellery for [[Givenchy]], [[Christian Dior|Dior]] and [[Balenciaga]]. He started his own fashion house in [[1966]]. He used such unconventional materials as metal, paper and plastic for his outlandish and [[flaming|flamboyant]] designs. | + | ==Early life and education== |
| + | Rabanne was born 18 February 1934 in the Basque town of [[Pasaia]], [[Gipuzkoa]] province. His father, a [[Republican faction (Spanish Civil War)|Republican]] Colonel, was executed by [[Francoism|Francoist]] troops during the [[Spanish Civil War]]. Rabanne's mother was chief seamstress at [[Cristóbal Balenciaga]]'s first couture house in [[Donostia]], [[Basque Country (autonomous community)|Basque Country]], and moved Rabanne's family when he opened [[Balenciaga]] in [[Paris]] in 1937, due to the Spanish Civil War. In mid-1950s Paris, while studying architecture at [[Beaux-Arts de Paris|l'École Nationale des Beaux-Arts]], Rabanne earned money making fashion sketches for [[Dior]] and [[Givenchy]], and shoe sketches for [[Charles Jourdan]], nevertheless he subsequently took a job with France's foremost developer of reinforced concrete, [[Auguste Perret]], working there for over ten years.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.heroine.com/the-editorial/paco-rabanne-fashion-history|title=Paco Rabanne Fashion History|website=Heroine|access-date=27 April 2020}}</ref> | ||
| - | Paco Rabanne is known for his [[costume design]]s for such films as ''[[Barbarella (film)|Barbarella]]''. Also [[Françoise Hardy]] was a big fan of Rabanne's designs. | + | == Career == |
| + | === Fashion === | ||
| + | [[File:1967 Paco Rabanne plastic and metal swimsuit detail.jpg|thumb|upright|1967 Rabanne metal and sequin swimsuit]] | ||
| + | [[File:Internationale Modenschau im Schloss (Kiel 50.596).jpg|thumb|upright|1971 Rabanne metal mail outfit in a fashion show, Germany]] | ||
| + | [[File:1 Million PL.JPG|thumb|upright|150px|Rabanne's 1 Million eau de toilette spray]] | ||
| - | Rabanne also has an interest in [[paranormal phenomena]], and became infamous for his false prediction of the Russian [[space station]] [[Mir]] falling to Paris in [[1999]]. | + | He started his career in fashion by creating jewelry for Givenchy, Dior, and Balenciaga and founded his own fashion house in 1966.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.escamastudio.com/blogs/news/paco-rabanne-retro-futurist-fashion|title=Paco Rabanne: Retro Futurist Fashion|website=escamastudio|access-date=27 April 2020}}</ref> He used unconventional material such as metal, paper, and plastic for his [[metal couture]] and outlandish and flamboyant designs.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www3.fitnyc.edu/museum/loveandwar/rabanne.htm|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20060903065914/http://www3.fitnyc.edu/museum/loveandwar/rabanne.htm|url-status=dead|archive-date=3 September 2006|title=MFIT- Love and War- Paco Rabanne|date=3 September 2006|access-date=27 April 2020}}</ref> For the debut of his namesake brand in 1966, he presented "Manifesto: 12 unwearable dresses in contemporary materials".<ref name="auto"/> Although he didn't consider himself a [[futurist]], Rabanne's most famous contribution to the fashion industry was arguably his futurist [[1960s in fashion#Space Age fashions|space age designs]].<ref name=dies /><ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.cnn.com/style/article/paco-rabanne-fashion-designer-dead-intl-scli/index.html|title=Paco Rabanne, Spanish fashion designer known for his Space Age creations, dies at 88|first1=Toyin|last1=Owoseje|first2=Amaud|last2=Siad|publisher=CNN|date=3 February 2023|accessdate=3 February 2023}}</ref> [[People Magazine]] journalist Hedy Philips noted that these space age designs "turned the fashion world upside down."<ref name=dies /> |
| + | |||
| + | Rabanne is known for designing the iconic green dress worn by [[Jane Fonda]] in the 1968 [[Science fiction film|science-fiction film]] ''[[Barbarella (film)|Barbarella]]''.<ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.hitc.com/en-gb/2023/02/03/who-owns-paco-rabanne-now-visionary-designer-dies-aged-88/|title=Who Owns Paco Rabanne Now? Visionary Designer Dies Aged 88|first=Yasmine|last=Leung|publisher=HITC|date=3 February 2023|accessdate=3 February 2023}}</ref><ref>{{cite news|url=https://deadline.com/2023/02/paco-rabanne-dies-spanish-barbarella-fashion-designer-88-1235248703/|title=Paco Rabanne Dies: Spanish ‘Barbarella’ Fashion Designer Was 88|first=Melanie|last=Goodfellow|publisher=Deadline Hollywood|date=3 February 2023|accessdate=3 February 2023}}</ref> The singer song-writer [[Françoise Hardy]] was a big fan of Rabanne's designs.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.gettyimages.com/detail/news-photo/francoise-hardy-salvador-dali-and-amanda-lear-in-paco-news-photo/111072506|title=Paco Rabanne, with Francoise Hardy, Salvador Dali and Amanda Lear in Paco Rabanne, In France, On May 19, 1968|website=Getty Images|access-date=27 April 2020}}</ref> For [[:fr:Tour 1996 de Mylène Farmer|Tour 1996]] and the resulting [[Live à Bercy|''Live à Bercy'']], singer [[Mylène Farmer]] had Rabanne do her live-concert stage costumes.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.mylene.net/mylene/paco-rabanne.php|title=Les différents costumes du Tour 96 créés par Paco Rabanne<!-- |first=Julien AUTIER, Philippe LEZE, Guillaume DATEZ & Sarah|last=HOFER -->|website=mylene.net|access-date=27 April 2020}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.innamoramento.net/mylene-farmer/confidences-interviews/1997-paco-rabanne|title=Interview de Paco Rabanne en 1997|website=Innamoramento.net|access-date=27 April 2020}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.elle.com.au/fashion/paco-rabannes-third-reinvention-1679|title=Paco Rabanne's third reinvention: Julien Dossena|first=Damien|last=Woolnough|website=ELLE|access-date=27 April 2020}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://i-d.vice.com/fr/article/a3pn94/tout-ce-que-la-mode-doit-a-mylene-farmer|title=tout ce que la mode doit à mylène farmer|first=Marion Raynaud|last=Lacroix|date=3 October 2018|access-date=27 April 2020}}</ref> | ||
| + | |||
| + | === Fragrance === | ||
| + | In 1968, he began collaborating with the fragrance<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.pacorabanne.com/ww/en/fragrance/p/paco-rabanne-pour-homme--000000000065051929|title = Paco Rabanne Pour Homme EAU de Toilette | Paco Rabanne}}</ref> company [[Puig (company)|Puig]], which resulted in the company marketing of Rabanne's perfumes.<ref name="PR">La Vanguardia, 9 October 2011, Supplement Diners, page 14</ref> In 1969, his first — and arguably most popular — scent, called Calandre, would be released.<ref name=dies /> In 1976, the company built a perfume factory in [[Chartres]], France.<ref name="Chartres">{{cite web | url = http://hemeroteca.lavanguardia.com/preview/2005/03/15/pagina-43/34731561/pdf.html?search=Chartres%20puig | title = To be multinational in Spain costs a lot, because the domestic market is too small | access-date = 9 May 2012 | publisher = La Vanguardia | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20140116194414/http://hemeroteca.lavanguardia.com/preview/2005/03/15/pagina-43/34731561/pdf.html?search=Chartres%20puig | archive-date = 16 January 2014 | url-status = dead }}</ref> In the 1980s, in Brazil, his men's perfume brand registration was forfeited due to a court judgement that the brand was never officially present in Brazil despite heavy advertising and a strong local awareness. The court reasoned that because the Puig's local distributor was smuggling perfume into Brazil, the company could not show proof of payment of import duties. It took six or seven years to recover his brand name in Brazil.<ref name="Luxury">{{cite book | title=Luxury Brand Management | publisher=John Wiley & Sons | author=Chevalier, Michel | year=2012 | location=Singapore | isbn=978-1-118-17176-9}}</ref> In 1994, Rabanne first released his scent called XS. | ||
| + | |||
| + | === Eccentricities === | ||
| + | |||
| + | Paco Rabanne was famous for his eccentric statements on television. He claimed he had lived several lives (including that of a prostitute in the time of [[Louis XV]]), to have known [[Jesus]] in a previous life, to have seen [[God]] three times, to have been visited by [[extraterrestrials]], to have murdered [[Tutankhamun]],<ref>[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oIsjK7gpSoc&feature=youtu.be&t=6m30 Archive INA Interview Paco Rabane on French tv]</ref> and to be 75,000 years old.<ref>''Le Libre Journal de [[Serge de Beketch]]'', [https://sdebeketch.com/libre-journal-1993-11-10/ broadcast] on [[Radio Courtoisie]] on 10 Nov 1993.</ref> | ||
| + | |||
| + | In 1999, he announced that, at the age of seventeen, he had had visions of Parisians in flames throwing themselves into the [[Seine]] and that after studying other concordant prophecies, he came to the conclusion that the ''[[Mir]]'' space station was going to crash in France at the time of the [[Solar eclipse of August 11, 1999|solar eclipse of 11 August 1999]], its debris causing thousands of deaths in Paris and in the [[Gers]] region.<ref>[https://www.ladepeche.fr/article/1999/05/28/130349-predictions-paco-rabanne-fort-mal-percues-gers.html ''La Dépêche'' 28/05/1999 Les prédictions de Paco Rabane fort mal perçues dans le Gers]</ref> On 10 May 1999, he publicly undertook not to make any more predictions if Mir did not crash into Paris on 11 August 1999.<ref name="prediction_mir_ina">[http://www.ina.fr/video/I04297988 INA : interview Paco Rabanne 10 of may 1999]</ref> However, he claimed to have had an [[Marian apparition|apparition]] of the [[Mary, mother of Jesus|Virgin Mary]] telling him to continue the predictions.<ref>[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oIsjK7gpSoc&feature=youtu.be&t=20m29 Archive INA Interview Paco Rabane]</ref> | ||
| + | |||
| + | Despite this episode, which tarnished his reputation among the public and the media, he continued to appear regularly in the specialized press, dealing more with the subject of his so-called paranormal experiences than that of high fashion. | ||
| + | |||
| + | == Other interests == | ||
| + | In 1994, Rabanne wrote the book, ''Has the Countdown Begun? Through Darkness to Enlightenment''.<ref>{{Cite book|title=Has the Countdown Begun?: Through Darkness to Enlightenment|date=1994-05-12|publisher=Souvenir Press Ltd|isbn=9780285631908|edition= Reprint|location=London|language=en}}</ref> | ||
| + | |||
| + | In 2005, Rabanne opened in [[Moscow]], Russia, the first exhibition of his drawings. His reasoning for showing the drawings then was, "I am 72 years old, and I wanted to present my drawings this year before disappearing from this planet. I have not shown them to anyone except [[Salvador Dalí]] 30 years ago, who told me to keep going." One of the [[black-and-white]] sketches depicts a child letting go of a dove and a white balloon into the sky, which he said was inspired by the commemoration ceremony for the 2004 [[Beslan school siege|Beslan attack]] in [[Beslan]], [[North Ossetia]], in which 319 hostages were killed, including 186 children, 12 servicemen, and 31 hostage-takers. Rabanne wanted the money that the drawing sold for to go to the women of Beslan.<ref>{{Cite web | title=French Designer Paco Rabanne Shows Drawings in Moscow | publisher=ARTINFO | date= 5 October 2005 | url=http://www.artinfo.com/news/story/1269/french-designer-paco-rabanne-shows-drawings-in-moscow/ | access-date=20 May 2008}}</ref> | ||
| + | |||
| + | In 2006, Rabanne visited [[Kyiv]], Ukraine. He summed up the changes since the [[Orange Revolution]]: "Ukraine reminds me of a flower unfolding its petals before my very eyes."<ref>[[Olena Golub|Olena Holub]] (2006). [https://day.kyiv.ua/en/article/day-after-day/french-couturiers-travel-ukraine-search-inspiration French couturiers travel to Ukraine in search of inspiration]. day.kyiv.ua.</ref> In the summer of 2012, Arora was succeeded by the German-Colombian fashion designer Lydia Maurer as chief designer.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Fashion Shows: Fashion Week, Runway, Designer Collections |url=https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows |access-date=2022-08-18 |website=Vogue |language=en-US}}</ref> In mid-2013, Belgian and former Balenciaga designer Julien Dossena was appointed creative director of womenswear at Paco Rabanne. Dossena's designs were subsequently praised by fashion critics.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Lochanski |first=Tess |date=2015-12-02 |title=julien dossena führt paco rabanne zurück in die zukunft |url=https://i-d.vice.com/de/article/xwxmyz/julien-dossena-fuehrt-paco-rabanne-zurueck-in-die-zukunft-312 |access-date=2022-08-18 |website=i-D |language=de}}</ref> The ateliers are located in Paris above the flagship store of [[Nina Ricci (brand)|Nina Ricci]], another Puig fashion company, on [[Avenue Montaigne]]. In January 2016, a new store opened on Paris' Rue Cambon, following the closure of the remaining Paco Rabanne boutiques more than ten years earlier.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Magazine |first=Wallpaper* |date=2016-02-25 |title=Belgian firm OFFICE Kersten Geers David Van Severen designs Paco Rabanne’s new Paris boutique |url=https://www.wallpaper.com/fashion/paco-rabannes-neutral-new-boutique--by-office-kersten-geers-david-van-severen-anticipates-an-evolving-aesthetic |access-date=2022-08-18 |website=Wallpaper*}}</ref> | ||
| + | |||
| + | A re-edit of his classic "le 69" bag was relaunched by [[Comme des Garçons]].<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://shop.doverstreetmarket.com/by-style/bags/paco-rabanne-for-dsm-ladies-bag-31658|title=Paco Rabanne for DSM Ladies' Bag|website=[[Dover Street Market]]|access-date=27 April 2020}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/dover-street-market-paco-rabanne-collaboration|title=The Big Revamp|website=British Vogue|date=17 January 2011|access-date=27 April 2020}}</ref> | ||
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Paco Rabanne (18 February 1934 – 3 February 2023) was a French-Spanish fashion designer who became known as an enfant terrible of the 1960s French fashion world. He gain notoriety for revolutionizing "space-age" fashion designs.
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Early life and education
Rabanne was born 18 February 1934 in the Basque town of Pasaia, Gipuzkoa province. His father, a Republican Colonel, was executed by Francoist troops during the Spanish Civil War. Rabanne's mother was chief seamstress at Cristóbal Balenciaga's first couture house in Donostia, Basque Country, and moved Rabanne's family when he opened Balenciaga in Paris in 1937, due to the Spanish Civil War. In mid-1950s Paris, while studying architecture at l'École Nationale des Beaux-Arts, Rabanne earned money making fashion sketches for Dior and Givenchy, and shoe sketches for Charles Jourdan, nevertheless he subsequently took a job with France's foremost developer of reinforced concrete, Auguste Perret, working there for over ten years.<ref>{{
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Career
Fashion
thumb|upright|1967 Rabanne metal and sequin swimsuit thumb|upright|1971 Rabanne metal mail outfit in a fashion show, Germany thumb|upright|150px|Rabanne's 1 Million eau de toilette spray
He started his career in fashion by creating jewelry for Givenchy, Dior, and Balenciaga and founded his own fashion house in 1966.<ref>{{
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}}</ref> For the debut of his namesake brand in 1966, he presented "Manifesto: 12 unwearable dresses in contemporary materials".<ref name="auto"/> Although he didn't consider himself a futurist, Rabanne's most famous contribution to the fashion industry was arguably his futurist space age designs.<ref name=dies /><ref>Template:Cite news</ref> People Magazine journalist Hedy Philips noted that these space age designs "turned the fashion world upside down."<ref name=dies />
Rabanne is known for designing the iconic green dress worn by Jane Fonda in the 1968 science-fiction film Barbarella.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref><ref>Template:Cite news</ref> The singer song-writer Françoise Hardy was a big fan of Rabanne's designs.<ref>{{
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Fragrance
In 1968, he began collaborating with the fragrance<ref>{{
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}}</ref> In the 1980s, in Brazil, his men's perfume brand registration was forfeited due to a court judgement that the brand was never officially present in Brazil despite heavy advertising and a strong local awareness. The court reasoned that because the Puig's local distributor was smuggling perfume into Brazil, the company could not show proof of payment of import duties. It took six or seven years to recover his brand name in Brazil.<ref name="Luxury">Template:Cite book</ref> In 1994, Rabanne first released his scent called XS.
Eccentricities
Paco Rabanne was famous for his eccentric statements on television. He claimed he had lived several lives (including that of a prostitute in the time of Louis XV), to have known Jesus in a previous life, to have seen God three times, to have been visited by extraterrestrials, to have murdered Tutankhamun,<ref>Archive INA Interview Paco Rabane on French tv</ref> and to be 75,000 years old.<ref>Le Libre Journal de Serge de Beketch, broadcast on Radio Courtoisie on 10 Nov 1993.</ref>
In 1999, he announced that, at the age of seventeen, he had had visions of Parisians in flames throwing themselves into the Seine and that after studying other concordant prophecies, he came to the conclusion that the Mir space station was going to crash in France at the time of the solar eclipse of 11 August 1999, its debris causing thousands of deaths in Paris and in the Gers region.<ref>La Dépêche 28/05/1999 Les prédictions de Paco Rabane fort mal perçues dans le Gers</ref> On 10 May 1999, he publicly undertook not to make any more predictions if Mir did not crash into Paris on 11 August 1999.<ref name="prediction_mir_ina">INA : interview Paco Rabanne 10 of may 1999</ref> However, he claimed to have had an apparition of the Virgin Mary telling him to continue the predictions.<ref>Archive INA Interview Paco Rabane</ref>
Despite this episode, which tarnished his reputation among the public and the media, he continued to appear regularly in the specialized press, dealing more with the subject of his so-called paranormal experiences than that of high fashion.
Other interests
In 1994, Rabanne wrote the book, Has the Countdown Begun? Through Darkness to Enlightenment.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref>
In 2005, Rabanne opened in Moscow, Russia, the first exhibition of his drawings. His reasoning for showing the drawings then was, "I am 72 years old, and I wanted to present my drawings this year before disappearing from this planet. I have not shown them to anyone except Salvador Dalí 30 years ago, who told me to keep going." One of the black-and-white sketches depicts a child letting go of a dove and a white balloon into the sky, which he said was inspired by the commemoration ceremony for the 2004 Beslan attack in Beslan, North Ossetia, in which 319 hostages were killed, including 186 children, 12 servicemen, and 31 hostage-takers. Rabanne wanted the money that the drawing sold for to go to the women of Beslan.<ref>{{
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In 2006, Rabanne visited Kyiv, Ukraine. He summed up the changes since the Orange Revolution: "Ukraine reminds me of a flower unfolding its petals before my very eyes."<ref>Olena Holub (2006). French couturiers travel to Ukraine in search of inspiration. day.kyiv.ua.</ref> In the summer of 2012, Arora was succeeded by the German-Colombian fashion designer Lydia Maurer as chief designer.<ref>{{
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A re-edit of his classic "le 69" bag was relaunched by Comme des Garçons.<ref>{{
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