Voyage or a Complete Journey through Italy  

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Voyage or a Complete Journey through Italy (1670) is a book by Roman Catholic priest Richard Lassels.

Full text[1]

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THE

V O Y AGE

OF

1 1 AL*,'

OR

A Compleat Journey throngh

I T A L Y

In Two Parts.

With theCharaffersot the Teeple, and the Defcription of the Chief Towxs^Churches, JMonafterie* Tombs, Libraries P all ace s^ Villa SiGardcns, Piclures t Statues, and Antiquities.

AS

Alfo of the Intereft , Government , Picket > Force , &c. of all the Princes.

With Inftruclions concerning Travel.

By Richard La f( Is , Gent, who Travelled through Italy Five times, as Tutor to fe- veral of the Englijh Nobility and Gentry.

- - ■ — r « 

Never before Extant.

Newly Printed at P dm, and are to be fold in LoncLon^ by John Starkey, at the Mitre in Flcet-ftrm new Temple- Ban, 1670. .>

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TO THE IGHT HONORABLE

AND MOST TRULY NOBLE LORD

ICHARD

LORD LUMLEY

OUNT WATERFORD



[LVIy LORD


It were needkffe to tell yon , by

how many titles this little Orphan

oo^ claimes the honour of yow

or dp proteSiion. Firji^ by the law

of Nature 5 its parent dying in your

[ervice ? yon ft and' bound to be a


foBer- father to it \ again it havino

been my fortune to contribute fointhing

to the bringing it forth to light 3 ii

hath a new relation to you under tin

title by which I have long agoe com

fecrated all my endeavours to your

fervice. But to pafs^by thefe two \

there is yet a third reajon^ whereby

it will appear, not the effeSi oj

choife, but of necefsity, that it fhonla

€ome forth under the favour of your

name: The well grounded experience

which you have gained in your\

trayehy the exatt and judicious

account you are able to give of the

places you have feen , which makg

a great part of the fubjeSi of thii

lookj the mature judgment of the*

interejisoffiates y and manners ofi

people whereof it treats, which ut

you is not the aji.rfruit of age j


the Gentile and courteous behaviour which you have acquired, and ntbicb charmes all thofe who have the honour to converfe with you : Thefe, I fay, \re vertuesfo peculiar to your Perfon y hid Jo conspicuous in the eyes of all the world , that the defign of this Boohjbeing to form the like in thereSl of the Gentry of our "Nation that pre- tend to travel , Jt would be a wrong o the publicly to let it appear under he Patronage of any other than of him that is the Idea of an accompli- shed and confummate Traveller. And this-) I doubt not y was the Keafon, why he Author having had the honour to haye been a Governour to fo many of he flower of our Gentry, made choife of your LordflAp to bequeath this wor\ unto, by his laH Will and Te- stament : And which impojeth upon


me a necefsity, both in comply ance to the memory of my worthy friend and fellow traveller, and to the duty I owe unto your Lord/hip , by the honour I have to fucceed unto him in his lad: engagement , to offer up this his laji work^to you, as an eyerlajiing monu- ment ofefleem and gratitude, of him ; who while he lived ever was, and of\ him who living ever is 3


MY LORD


Your Lord/hips moft humble & moil obedient fervent s, wilfm


H


A TABLE

OF THE NAMES OF THE CHIEF TOWNS


MntAwed in


this frftpart.



A.



Boffena*


242




Briare.


32


r A Iguebelle. JLAAiguebellet


69


Briga.


6*


Mr.


66


C



! Aix.


42




Alexandria.


103


Caprarola.


247


ApenninsMts.


154


Caffale.


103


Aquapendenee.


241


Caftelfranco.


141


Avignon,


38


Chambery.


67




Cenis. Mt. ?


70


B.



Coire.


57


S.Baume.


43


D.



Beauvoyfin.


66




Berlin. Mc.


58


Devedra.-


  • 5


Bologna, 1


141


Domodofcela.


6S


F.


M.


Florence.


iS5


Marfeiies.


Fontainbleau.


27


Marguzzi.


Fort- Urban.


140


Marignano. S.Maurice.


G.



S. Maximin. Milan.


Geneva;.


48


Modena.


Genua.


&2


Monrferrat. Monrargb.


I.



Montefiafcone. Mosterofa.


SJohnMorian.


69


Montmelian.


Ifcre Riu.


68


Murat.


L.



H


1 Lake of Geneva


49


Never.


L'^keof 3olfena.


243


Novalefe>


Lakes of Woilinftadc


Novi.


and! fee.


59



Lake Major.


65


P.


L;fneburg.


69



1 Lauf nna.


S-o


Parma.


-Ligorne.


2?2


Pavia.


Lodi.


  • 33


Piacenza,


r Lucca.


225


Piemont.


Lyons.


3.2


Pife.




Piftoia.


225 T.



JPo. Riv.


7 2



[Poggibonzi.


235 Terrara.


32


Pone S. Efprit.


38 Ticinum.l


1 05


Pougues.


32 Tortona.


104



Tournon.


38


R.


Turin.


72


Radicofino.


241 V.



ilegio


238



, Riviera di Genua,


82 Valance.


25


Roanne.


3 2 Valtaline.


57



Valerians,


59


s.


Veij.


250



Vienne.


38


1 Sampion. M.


63 Viterbo.


246


I'Savona.


80



1 Savoy,


76 Y.



1 Sefto.


66



1 Siena.


23 S Yflbnne.


2S


iSion.


61



1 Soleurj


$2 z.



1 Splug.Me.


58



Ih'-Jf'.


71 Zone.


5!



A PREFACE

TO THE READER,

CONCERNING TRAVELLING

HEN I firfi fet pen ta Paper to handle this fub- jecl^ I had not the, leaft thought of the Prefs j nor of erecting my felf into | an Author. / enly difcharged my me- \mory hafiily of fome things which I \had [ten in Italy; and wrapt up that | untimely Embrio in five fbeets of pa- per , for the ufe of a noble per/on, Vcho jet me that task^ Yet this Embrio tike* ing the per/on for wfam it wdf con- ceived y obliged me to licJ^ it over and over again , and bring it into better form- Second thoughts, andfucceeding voyages into Italy, have finifhed it at lafl •, and have made it what it is-, A com pleat Voyage, and an exact Iti-

nentry through Italy.

■And here I thought to have draw» a bridle


bridle and refted, after fo long a jour- ney ; when a learned friend having per- ufedthis my Defcription ofltd\y,defi- redmuch to fee a Prefaces it of my fafhion, and Concerning Travelling. /• could refufe nothing to fuch a friend ; and have done it here willingly, both for my own, avid my Country es fake.

For my own fake^ to pre-excufe fomt things in my book^ which fome perchance may di (like.

For fome, I fear, will quarrel ^ith my Englifi, and jufily, feeing three long voyages into Flanders, fix into France, five into Italy, one into Germany, and Holland , hath made me live half of my life time in forrain Countryes, to the difturbance of my o\W language ,< Tet if /bring not home fine language, bring home fine things : and I have feed great Lady es, both in France. andEnT gland , buy fine things of Chimneys {Weepers, and Pedlars, that ft kf but courfe Lombard language , and grofl Stozch.

Others perchance will find fault, thai J write merrily fometimes : Jndwhi mot ? Seeing I write to young nen, and f or them •, and mirth is never fo law- ful as in Travelling, whire it fbor*

tenm




wslong miles, andfveeetens badufage-, hat is, makes a bad dinnergo down,and bud ho>rfe£o on.

Othenr mil fay, That J fill my book^ vith too much Latin : But thcfe muft <e minded, that I am writing of the La- in Country ^ and that I am carving for Scholars ( who can difgeflfolidbitts t ha- ving gooxdjlomacks.

Others mil fay, I jeer now and then i Andw>»vild any man hauemego through r o many divers Countries , and praife all I fee- f Or in earnefi , do not fome things defcrve to be jeered f wben things cannot b>e cured but by jeering, jeering faith Tertullhn, is a duty ^ and I thinks the Cynick Pbibfophers ftruck. as great a bloVv at Vice , as the Stoicks.

Others will fay, I change fiile often 7 andfom,etimes run fmoothly, and fome- times joftingiy ; Trm t [ travelled not alwajes upon (mooth ground, and pact" ing horfes : SwifTerland and Savoy are mpdeh different from Campania and Lombardy • and its one thing to defcribe a Pleafanc Garden, an other thing to> defcribe a v enerable Cathe- dral : and if in j he one, and the other, we have fever al lockes ; much more a ij ought


ought we to have fever al words in de- j

Scribing them.

Others Will fay, I affeil a world of , exotic^ words not yet naturalized in England: No , 1 a feci them not-, I cannot avoid them -, For who can/peal^ of Statues, but he mufl Jpcak of N>- ches ^ or of Churches ;. Wrought , Torobes, e> inlay d tables ; " but he mufi sf)eal^ofCoupQ\3.s.; of bafti nli- cvi -, and of piare commeffe ? if my man under ft and them not^ its his faulty not mine.

Others will fay, J hunt too much af- ter Ceremonies, and Church antiqui- ties. No^ I only meet them. And as a man cannot Jpea^of Hercules, but he mufl ffeak^of dubbs/if combats, of La- bours, and Vkioriesifo I cannot Fpeah^ of Rome the Chriflian , but 1 mvft ffeah^of Relicks, Ceremonies, and Re- ligion. Yet I believe, I give my Rea- der a full draughty too of prophane anti- quities, Mafcarades, Shews, dreffings, Wpatiimes.

Others, in fine will fay , i hat I do but a thing done already ; feeing two others have writ ten of this Subject in Englifll. Well ; if others have Written upon this fubjecj, why may not I ? They did the

befi


beft. they cottld,! believe: but they drew not up the Ladder after them. The one Writes much of Italy, and f ales ^ ar " little : the "fither Vorites little and lea- CU P'„ veth out much -^ which I impute to the M * ^ a V" ones writing out of old Geographers , monCl - long after he had been there : and to the othtrs fiort flay in Italy, Vchen he was there. And if thefe ingenious gentlemen have painted out Italy in bufto 0/^/7, and profile^ why may not J paint her out at full face, and at her full length? If they, Ukf antient Sta- tuaries^ have represented Italy unto m- like a naked ftatue ; / have fet her out in all her beft Attire ; and Jew- els. And thus much for my own fake.

For my Countryes fake; To read to my country-men two profitable Lef- fons. Thefirft, Of the Profit of tra- velling. Thcfecond, Of travelling with profit.

I. For thefirft, to wit, the Profit of Traveling , its certain , that if this The pro- world be a great book , as S. Augu- fit of tra- ftine calls it , none ftudy this great veiling. Book/o much as, the Traveler- They that never ftir from home , read one- ly me page of this Book ; and like a iij* the


the dull fellow in Pliny , who could never learn to count further then five, they dfteM alWayes upon one Lcffon, They are Iks an acquaintance of mine > who had alwayes a bonk^ indeed lying open upon a Desk^\ but it was obferved that it lay alwayes open at one and the fame place , and by long cuftome t could lye open no Cohere elfe. He then that toill k?ow much out of this great JBook^, thefVorld, mufl read much in if. and as Ulifles is fet forth by Homer as the Vcifeft of all the Greci- ans, btcaufe he had travelled much , and had jeen mulcorum hominum mores & Urbes , the Cittyes and Cuftomes of many men : fo his fan Telemachus is held for a very JhalloW' witted man : and Homer gives the reafon } becaufe his mother Penelope, inflead of fending him abroad to fee forrain Countries, had alwayes kept him at home , and fo made him a meer Onocephalus, and a homeling Mammacuth. So true is the faying of Seneca , that Imperitum eft animal homo, & fine magna experientia re- rum, fi circumfcribatur Natalis foli fui fine.

2 Travelling preferves my young no- bleman


bleman from furfeiting of hit parents, and Veeans him from the dangerous fondnefs of his Mother. It teacheth htm whole fome hardship • to lye in beds that are none of his acquaintance ; to ffeak^ to men he never Jaw before • to travel in the morning before day •, and in the evening after day • to endure any horfe apd weather^ as well as any meat and drinks whereas my Country gentleman that never travelled , can fcarce goto London without making his Will , at leafi without wetting his hand-kerchief. -And what generous mother will not fay to her Son with that Antient} Malo c enec< tibi male efle , quam molliter ; I had rather thou fhouldfl: be fick , then fofc. Indeed the coral -tree, is nei- ther hardy nor red % till taken out of the Sea , its native home. And I have read that many of the old Romans put eut their children to be nurced abroad by Lacedemonians nurces, till they were three years old j then they put them to their Uncles, till [even , or ten; then they fent them into Tofca- ny to be inftrulied in Religion • and at laft into Greece to fludy philo- sophy.

3 . Travelling takes my young noble* a iiij m&»


Sen?c.


man four notches lower, in his felf- conctit a,nd pride. For , whereas the Country Lord that never faw any body but his Fathers Tenants, and M- Par- ion, and never read any thing but John Stow, and Speed ; thinks the Lands- end to be the Worlds-end ; and that all folid greatncfs , next mto a great Pafty, cenfifls in a great Fire, and a great eftate. whereas my travelling young Lord , who hath feen [o many greater men, and Eflates than his own, comes home far more modefi and ci- vil to his inferiours, andfarr lefs puft up with the empty conceit of his own greatnefs. Indeed nothing cured Al- cibiades his pride [o much , as to fee in a Map {{hewed him for the nonce by Socrates ) that his houfe and lands, of which he was fo proud , either ap- peared there not at all, oronely a little fpot or dab ; and nemo in pufillo mag- nus.

4. Travelling takes eff^ in fomefirt, that aboriginal curfe, which was laid upon mankind even aimed at the beginning of the World-, I mean, the confufion of Tongues : which is fuch a curfe indeed , that it makes men , who arc of one kind, and made tobefo-

ciaklc


a'able, (b ftrangely to fly we mother \ that as great S. A#ftin faith, A man had rather be -with his dog, than with a man whofe language he underftands not. Nay, this diverfity of Language* makes the wifeft man paffe for a Fool in a ftrange Country, and the beft maw, for an excommunicated perfon , whofe eenverfation ail men avoid. Now, traveling tak^s iff this curfe, and this moral excommunication ; by making m learn many languages , and con*- verfe freely with people of other Coun* tryes,

5. Travelling makes tit acquainted with a Vvorld «f our kindred we never faw before. For , feeing we are all* come from one man at firjl , and con fre- quently all a kin to one another j its but a reafonable thing , that a man fbould ince at haft in his life time , make a journty into forrtin Coutries, to fee his Relations, and vifit this kindred ; having alwayes this faying of young Tofeph in his mouth -, quaero fratres raeos.

6, Traveling enables a man, much for his Countries fervice. It makes the merchant rkh, by fhtwing him wh<t

abounds,


abounds , and wantes , in other coun. trjes j that fo he may know what to im- forty what to export. It makes tht mechanick come loaden home with world of experimental knowledge fori the improving of his trade. It makes\ the field officer, a knowing LeadeA of an Army, by teaching him where am Army in forrain Country es , can\ march fecurely, pafs Rivers eafily, in- iamp fafely , avoid Ambttfcadoes and\ narrow pajfages difcreetly, and retreat orderly. It makes the Common Sol- dier play the Spy Well, by making Un ffeakjhe enemies Languague per feci:' iy , that fo mingling with them , he may find their defigns, and cr&fs their flats. In fine , it makes a Noble- man fit for the noblefi Employ-

  1. tent 9 that is , to be Ambafftdor

■abroad for his King in forain Coun- try es ^ and carry about with him his Kings perfon', which he reprefents , And his Kings word , which he enga- ge^.

7. Travelling brings a man a World of particular profits. It contents the minde with the rare difcourfes we bear from learned men, as the jQueet* of Saba was ravijked at the ypifdom


6 f Salomon. // make/ a wifeman much the Wifer by making him fee the good and the bad in others > Hence the wifeman faith j Sapiens in terram alienigenarum gentium pertranfiet: bona enim & mail in hominibus ten- tabit. It makes a man thinly himfelf at home every where ,. and fmile at unjufi exile : It makes him wellcome home again to his Neighbours, fought after by his betters, andliften- ed unto with admiration by his infe- riours. It makes him fit Hill in his old age with fatisfatlion ^ and travel over the world again in his chair and beef, by difcourfe and thought r. In fine , its an excellent Commentary upon hifto- ries i and no man underftands Livy and Caefar, Guicciardin *»^ Monluc, like him, who hath made exablly the Grand Tour 0/ France, and the Giro of Italy.

8. Travelling makes my young No- bleman return home again to his Coun~ try like a blefijng Sun. For a4 the Sun, who hath been travelling about the world thefe five thoufand and odd years, not enely enlightens thefe places Vphich he vifits; but alfo enrich- ith them with all forts of Fruits ,

and


and mettafs: fo t the Nobleman by long traveling, having enlightened his underftanding with fine notions, comes home like a glorious Sun ; and doth not onlyjhine bright in the firmament «f his Country t the Parlament houfe; but alfo blejfeth his inferionrs with the powerful influences if his knowing Sfiirit.

9- I» fine , Examples ( the befi Ihilofophy ) Jhew us , that the grea- tefi Princes Europe hath feen , thefe many years , to wit , Charles the V. Strada de and the King of Sweden , Guftavus idloBelg Adolphus , were both ef them great Travelers - t the firfi had been twice in England , as often in Africk , f$ur times in France, fix times in Spain , /even times in Italy, and nine in Ger- many : The feconA had travelled in- cognito (as M. Watts Writes of him) into Holland, France, Italy, and Ger- many in his youth: which made him fay afterwards to the French Ambaffador Marefchal Breze , in a kind of threatning way , that he knew the way to Paris, as well as to Stockholme. Adde to this, that the Tcsifeft and greatefi among the antient fhilofopheis , Plato, Pythagoras,

Ana« 


Anaxagoras , Anacharfc , Apollo- nius, Architas, and Pjttkcus, whit/h lafi left his fupream Command of Mytelen to travel ) were all great travellers ; and that Sf.Hjerorne (who being no Bifhop, and 0nfequentlj not obliged to refidence) having travelled into France, Italy, Greece, and the Holy Land, purchafed to him/elf fuch rare acquifitions of Learning , by his travels and Languages , that among all the antient Fathers and Do&ors, the Church in her Collect en his day, calls him only, Do&orem maximum , the greateft Doctor. And fo much far the profit otTra veiling.

Now for as much as concemes the The Tra- fecond LcfTon, to wit, the Travelling yelling with Profit , divers things are to be wkhpro- taken notice of—fome h the Parents of fie,! -thofe that travel ; others by thofe them- selves that travel : of all chichi will Jpea^ briefly-

As for the Parents , their greatefi care ought to be of providing their children ( / ffeak^ to men of high con~ dition ) a good Governour , to travel with them, and have a care of their Perfons, and breeding : that is , tlay the fart of the Arcuangel Raphael

te




to young Toby, and Lead them fofc ab oad, and bring them fafe home : Ego fanum ducam & reducam filium tuum. Tob. 5. v. 20. -And here I could wifh indeed that Parents could be m happ] in their choyce , and finde men Angels for Governours to their children^ upon condition they Jhould re~ quite them , as ymng Tob:e offered to requite the Archangel his Governour, whom he took. t0 be a man. For the education of Children is a thing of that high concern to the Commonwealth y that in this , Parents Jhould tfarc no coji whatfoever^ but rather imi- tate the old Lacedemonians , who took, more care of their youth, then of any thing elfe in their Common-wealth- in fo much that when Antigonus asked of them fifty young youths for hofiages, they anfwered him-, that they had rather give him twice at many made men. Seing then ysung youths are the future hopes of families , andCommonVpealthf, their educatkn ought not to be commit- ted but to men of great ipaxts and ex- cellent breeding. For Imhe alwayes thought , that a young Noblemans train ought to be like his Clothes ; His Lac- quees and footmen are like bis Ga-

lofhoos,


lolhoos, ^hich he haves at the doors ofthofe he vifits: His Valets de Cham- brc, are like his night goVvn , which he never ufeth but in his Chamber - 9 and leaves them there when he goes in vi- fits : His Gentlemen attendants, are liks his fever al rich futes , which he wears not all at once , but now one, »oW an other ', and fometimes none at all of them : His groorae is like his riding cloak, and never appears near him but upon the road: But his Gover- nour is like his fhirt , which is all- wajes next unto his sk[n and ptrfon-, and therefore as joung Noblemen are curious to have their thlttsofthe fineft linnen : fofmtld they have their Go- vernours of the fineft thready and the befi ffun men that can be found, Hence the ancients as they were care- full in honouring the Memory of thofe that had been Governours to great

Heroes, as of Chiron, Governour of Hercules, Jafon, Paris, Achilles, and ether brave Heroes; Mifcus Governour »/UlyiTes -,,.Eudorus 0/ Patroclus -, Da- res c/Hedlbr^Epitides if Julus,Con- nidas of Thefeus ; aS of them choyce men : So they were bt choofmg the rar reft men for that gnat employment 9

to


a good Gover- nor-


to be their children* Governors ; that is in their Language, Cu {lodes & co - mites juvencutis Principum & magna- tum. For not every honeft and vertu- ous man ( as feme Parents thinly) is fit for this employment ^ Xhofe parts indeed wculd do \\>ell in a Stuard and a Solicitor; but many things elfe , be- fides thefe y mufi concurre to wake up a The fha- &°°^ Governour. / would have him ra&er of l ^ m t0 ^ e mt cne ^ a Vertmns man , but a Virtuofo too . not onely an ho- neft man^ but a man of honour too : not onely a gentleman born , but a gentile man alfo by breeding : a man not onely comely of perfon by nature-, but grace- ful alfo by art in his garbes and be- haviour : a good Scholar, but no meer fcholar : a man that hath travelled much in forrain C ountryes ^ but yet no fickle- headed man : a man of afioht fpi- rit y but yet of a difcreet tongue , and who knuwes rather to wave cfuamls prudently , then to maintain them ft ent- ly: a man chcarful in converfation , yet fearful to offend others : a man of that prudence , as to teach his Pupil rather to be wife then witty; and of I that example of life , that his deeds I may make his pupil believe bis words :

in


in fine, I Would have him to be an En - gli(hman,»(jftranger. J sfeaknotthis out of an envy to ft rangers, but out of a love to my oWn Country men. For I I have knoton divers £ng!ifh- gentle- men much wronged abroad iy their Covernours that Were Strangers, Some I have known that led their pu- pil to Geneva, where they got fome French language, but lofi all their true Enghfh allegiance and resell fo Mo- narchy ± others, I have known who , being married and having their fettle- mem s and intereft lying at Saumur, kept young gentlemen there all the time they were abroad-, and madv their Pa- rents in England believe , that all good breeding was in that poor l ow» y where their wives were breeding children. Others , / have known , -who having their miftreffts in the Country , per- fwaded their young pupils , men of great birth, that it was fine living in a Coun- try houfe, that is fine carrying a gun upon their necks and walking a foot^ Others have been obferved to fell tleir pupils to Matters of exercifes, and to have made them believe, that the worfl Academies were the beft , be- caufe they were the beft to the cunning

Cover-


Governour, Wh» had ten found a man for every one he could draw thi- ther: Others I have known who Would have married their Pupils in France , without their Parents knowledge • and have facrificed their great trus~l, to their fordid Avarice. Others 1 have known who have locked their pupils in a chamber with a Wanton woman , and taken the Key away with them. Nay, this lean fay more , that of all thofe (hangers that I have known Governour-. to young Noblemen of England (and I have known feven or eight. ) / never kneW one of them to be a Gentleman born • but for the mefi fart, they Were needy bold men, whofe chief parts were , their own language and fome Latin j and whofe chief aime Was , to ferve themf elves , not their pupils.

But to return again to our fubjefl, the Parent having found out fuch a Governour for his Son , as We have defcribed here above, he muft reftgn over unto him his full Authority, and command his Son to obey him : other- wife let the Governour be the Wifefl, and the msfi compleat man in the world, if his pupil do not obey him,

and


And follow his Counfel , all will go wrong. I have feen great difordtrs befall for want of this. Hence I have often thought of great Clemens Aiex- andrinus i who faith Veifely , that our Saviour Chrirt is the onely true Pedagogue, or Governour, bccaufe he can not only give the be ft InftruEli- ens to young men , but alfo can give them grace to execute thofe inftruflions : "whereas other Governours (CafTandra hkf ) telling their Pupils many excel- lent truths, are not believed by them • nor can they force their, inclinations to execute them, except the Parents com' rnands come in to their afp fiance '. and it is but reafonable,that as Governours are the Seconds of Parents, in the bree- ding of their children, (o Parents fhould fecond Governours too, in making their children obey them. Andfo much for the Parents Care,

For the Sons care, itmufi be this, lirfi to take a view of England before he enter intoforrain Country es. This 1V/7/ enure him to travel, to fee company, to cbferve towns and rarities and fharpen his appetite for forrain curiofities. I would wifh him withall in traveling ever England, to fall in, as often as he

can,


urn, With the Judges in their Cir- cuits , not onely to fee how his Country is gov 'erne 'din point of judicature ; but alfo to fee the gentry of feveral Coun- try es, who fiock^to great Towns in the Afiiize week. Jt would be alfo pro- fitable to him^ to cafl to be at all tie chief Hovk-;accs , where he will ea- fily fee alfo the gentry of the feveral counties in a compendious View; Ha- ving thus feen his own Country in a Summers (pace, and having got his Majefties Licence to travel beyond the Seas (in which Licence / could wifb this claufe 'Voere inserted , That [all young gentlemen Jhonld at their return^ prefent them/elves to his Majefty , to give him an Account of their Travels and obfervations) J would have him* depart England about the beginning of October.

2. At his going out of England , let him take his dime right • that is , let him aime altogether at his profic , and not at his pleafures onelj. /> have k*o\\>n many Englifh-rnen who for nant of right aiming . y have miffed the white of breedings whole heavens breadth. Forfome in traveling , aime at [nothing but to get loofe from their

Parents,


Ptvents, or School matters , and tt have the fingering of a pretty allow- ance • and thefe wen when they come into t- ranee , care for jeeing no Court, but the Tenifcourc ; delight in feeing no Balls but Tennis-b Us : ; andforfake any company, to tofs whole dayt's to- gether with a tattered Marker in the i ripot.

Others defire to go into Italy , oxe- ly becaufe they hear there are fine Cour- tifafies in Venice ^ and, as the f$ucen \ of the Amazons, in Juftin, Voent thirteen day es journey out of her Coun- try , onely to have a nights lodg- ing with Alexander the Great , fp thefe men travel a whole moneth toge- ther to Venice, for a nights lodging ifithan impudent woman. And thus by a falfe aiming at breeding a- broad , they return mth.thofe dtfeafes which hinder them from breeding At home.

Others travel abroad, at our fliip- boyes do into the Indies : for while* thefe boy es might bring home Jewels, Pearis , and many other things of va~ lew , they bring home nothing but firecanes , Parocs , and Monkien •> fo our young Travellers, rphiles they , might


might bring home many rich obfer vath ons, for the governing themfelves, and ethers , bring home nothing but Fire- canes, that is, a hotffur humor , that takes fire at every word, and talks of nothing but duels, feconds, and efclair- cijOTements : or elfe parots, that is , come loaden home With ribans and fea- thers of all colours like p.irots, and with a fety borrowed complements in their months , Which make them talk^ like parots: or elfe Monkeys, thatis,fome affetlc Scringes, fhrugs, and fuch like Apifb behaviour.

3 . At his embarking let him bave a ffecial care not to carry Himfelf abroad with Him felt in traveling • Many men , faith Seneca, return home no better then they went out , becaufe they take themfelves along with themfelves in travelling : and as A man in & ft aver , findes himfdf m better then he was , by changing his bed ; becaufe he carry es his feavour with him where foever he lyes : Jo ma- ny young men return home tyred , and dirted, but not better and wifer; be- caufe they carry ed abrtah their bad cu- fiomes and manners with thw> I Would then that my young Traveller

Jjould


fhonld leave b'ehinde him all willful' nefs , and flubbomefs ; all tendernefs % andfeekjng hiseafe too much; all effe~ minatenefs and delicdtenefs -, all boy- ijh tricks with hands or mouth, and mocking of others ; all delighting in bting the befi man in the company • all familiarity with fervants , and meanmen ; all Taverns, andintempe' perancy of eating and drinking \ ha- % : ng that faying of Seneca often in hi? mouth and mind; Major fum & ad Majora natus, quam ut raan- cipium fim corporis mei : I am too great a man, and born to too great things, for to become the flave of my body. In fine, 1 would have him imitate that young gentleman of whom S- Ambrofe fpeaks ; who returning home from forrain travels , and meet- ing -with his old miflrefs , a wanton woman, fetmed not to know her ; whert- at fie wondering, told him that /be was fuch an one -, it may be fo , /aid he , but I am no more I. A rare A- potbigme; which J would wifh my jourg Traveller to take for his mot- to, as well as this young man for his example.

4. Being thus got out of England,

its


its a. great queftion into what Country he fhould fir ft go : t make his a bo Ad. The common cottrfc is % to go- fir fl- into France, and then into Italy t and fo hame by Germany, Holland 'and Flan- ders , at I did once : bat my opinion if i that its better for a young man to go fir ft into Italy , and returning by Germany , Holland and Flanders , come into France, to give himfelf there the I aft hand in breeding. And my reafon is this » For feeing the inten- tion of travelling, is to make a man a wife man , not a finical man , 'its better to feafon his minde betimes Veith a ft aid wife breeding i then to fill it up to the brim at firft , with a phanta- fticai giddy breeding, which, having once gotten pojfcffton of the minde , bolts the door on the in fide , locks' out all ftaydncfs •, and makes my young man delight in mtlnng but vanity , clothes, dancing, liveryes, bails, and fitch meer out fides ■:■ I would therefore have my young Ntblemans Governour to carry him immediately into Italy at fifteen or fixteen , and there feafon his minde with the gra- vity, and wife Maximes of that Na- tion , which hath civilized the whole

world


world , and taught Mail Manhood. Having /pent %Vco or three years in Italy in learning the Language , view- \ ing the ftveral Courts , ftudying their Maximcs , imitating their Gentile Converfation , and following theffoeet Extrcifet of Mufick, Painting, Ar- chitecture, WMathematicks, he will at his return , know what true ufe to

make of France. And having font

i three years more there , in learning to Fence, Dance, Ride, Vault, Handle his Pike, Musket, Colours, &c. The Map , Hiftory , and Books of Policy; ■he will be ready to come home at twenty or one and twenty , a Man mofl compleat both in Body and Mind t and fit to fill the place of his Call-


in?.


5. T fay, Make true ufe of France. What to for I would not have my young be learnt Traydkr imitate all things he fees done in France i tn France , or other Foreign Country s+ and what 1 1 / would have him learn of the French not. a hanifome confidence , but not an impuatnt boldnefs. He mufl learn of 1 them to come into a Room with a Bonne mine •, but not to rujh into a \ Man: Chamber , as they do, without fo

much 4s knocking at the Door- He

b mufi


mufl learn of them to dance well 3 to get a good grace in walking and far luting , at tbej do : but he mufi not dance as he Walk* ' , as many of them do. He mufi learn of the French } to become any clothes well ; but he mud not follow them in all their Phantafii- cal and fanfaron clothings. He mufi learn to fence well, as they do; but I would have his [word Bick^f after in the fcabbard than theirs do. In fine, J would have him open , airy , and gallant , as they are ; but not affecting to be the Gallants of all Ladies, as they do. What in &° %n * ca ty > ^ would have him holy and ^ earn tQ make a fine houfe ^ but I wharnot would not have him learn of the ' Italians to keep a good houfe. He may learn of them to be fober , and wife : but I would not have him learn of them to be jealous and di- ttruftful. / would have him learn of the Italians , to receive thofe that viftt him, with great civility and refped • but I would not have him fiand upon all their little forms and incommodi- ous punctilio's. / would have him to be free of his Hat , as they are : but I would have the heart

to


n go to the Hatf 3 as well as the hand.

jn Germany / would have him What in learn to offer a mdn a cup of wine Germany, at his coming in ; but I would not and white have him prejfe fo much wine upon not. him , as he flail not be able to go out again , as they often do. I would have him learn of them to go freely to warre for the defence of his country; but I would not have him learn the cuftom of thofe vendible fouls there , Vi>ho carry their lives to market , and ferve any Prinee for money. / like well their flaking hands with you 9 when you firfi enter into their hou- fes •, but I like not their quarrelling with you for not fledging a health of a yard long , which would rum yours. 1 like very much their fw- guUr modefly and chaftity , which allows not bafiards to be freemen of the most ordinary trades : but I like not their endlefs drinking in feasts , which is able to make them freemen of all vices.

Jn Holland alfo 1 would have What in him learn to keep his houfe and Holland > hearth neat > but Jfyould not have him and wkac adore his houfe , and Band in fuch not. aVce of his hearth « as not to dare to


bz


make


make* fire initial they do. 1 would have

him learn of them , a /pare diet - 9 but

1 Would not have him drint^fo much y

as would keep him both in good djet

and clothes, as they do, J would have

him learn of them their great indufiry

and (economy : but not their rude

exalting upon Noblemen ftrangers in

their Inns , for their Quality's fake

tnely , as they do. J would have

him learn of them a Jingular love to

his Countrey : hut he mufi take heed

•f their clotynijh hatred ef Nobility.

Thus in all Countrey s I would have

my yomg Traveller do, as men do at

a great beaft , where there is no fear

ef ftarving - y that is, not eat greedily of

all that 's before him, but fall to the beft

Meats , and leave the Worft for the

Waters

6. That he may follow the f ore f aid Rule the better and pick^ont of every Countrey what's the befi in it , let his Governour lead him betimes into the befl Company ■ for there the beft Lef- fors are to be learned. Now by the word beft , / do not mean the greatest men in birth % but in parts. For the world is not fo happy , as that the greatest men are alwayes the beft : but by

the


the word bed 9 / mean thofe that are the wife ft , the be ft bred , the be ft •principled , the beft behaved , and the moft cryed up by civil perfons : for of fuch me A much is to be learned: Their life is a perpetual Lecture } their words fo many Oracles ; their difcour- fesja many wife Maximes : and though young men be not able to bring their difb With them , and clubbe wit equally with thcfe men , yet its a great matter to fit slill in their com- pany 9 and be a re [peElful catechumen to them^ For if it be true which Quintilian faith of thofe that love Cicero , Ciceronem amaiTe, profeciflc eft, its alfo moft certain, that a man that loves good company r muft be good himfelf in time.

7. And that he may be able to appear in good company without blufhwg , his Oovernour muft get him , as foon as he can , to fpeak, the Language of the place in hand- fome terms 5 and with a good accent i Next he muft have a care that he be well adjufted and fet out in ap- parel ; For if anciently Jewels Wf re called the Ufhers of Ladies 5 becaufc all Doors flew open to them that h 3 frefentcd


frefettttJ. themfelves fo richly adorned', fo note a daycs gord clothes may be called Mens llflhers , feeing they make way for them into all companies. He muff; have a care that he knot* his Congies perfectly , and have a free garbe or carriage ; a Cavalier 7v ay of entering into a Roome ; a grateful managing of his mouth and fmiles ; a chironomy , or decent ailing with his hands , Vvhich may humor his words gravely and freely , jet not affectedly, or mimically : in fine t a liberty or freedom in all his actions , which the French call liber- ie du corps ; and it mufi appear to be a la negligence , and yet must be per- fectly studied a-fore-ba»d» And though thefe things be but the Ele- ments and Alphabet of breeding , yet •without them he can never fpell Gen- tleman rightly , though his inftde be never fo good. Indeed its long ago, that great men dwell m more in thatched houfes.

8. But it is not' enough to get him into Language WGarbes , if he get him not into Coach and Liveries, Without which he can never appear

  • t Court, w in good company % efpe-

cully


daily in Rome and Paris \ the two

chief Towns of long abode abroad. For

let a man be of a Knee as ancient as

the AutoAhenes of Athens , who faid Plutarch.

they were as ancient as the Earth ^

and lezt him quarter his coat of Arms

'With the three Lyons of England , and

the three Bower-de-lys of France , as

I know a gentleman of Little Britany

dot h , (by the grant anciently of both

thofe Kings) yet 1 dare boldly fay this,

that v,n Pans no colours blazon a mans

wbility behind his Coach fo much , as

three Lacquies and a Page , in a hand

feme Livery. In other 1 owns ^/Trance-

rohere young Gentlemen ufe to live,

at firjfl ■' till they get the language y a

couple of fadle horfes would be very

ufeful . 'dothtotahjithe airon , as alfo

to vl\v- the gentry in the Countrey at

their Summer Jioufes , Where a Man

Vi '11 find great civilities and diver-

fifements. 3e fides, riding out.fe in the

frejh evenings if Summer , will not

cnely wean mfyhing Gentleman, from.

little company ,-> and the- crowd of his

Count reym en j who will be then pre ffmg

upon him ; but will alfo afford his

Governour many fine folitary occafi~

ens of plying him alone with good coun-

b 4 felt


fels and inftru&ions.

9. And fee ing I have touched Some- thing before of his Servants and Lac- quaies, I will adde this , that feeing it is none of the least blejfmgs of a young Gentleman to have good Servants about him, it belongs to his Governour , not wtlj to choofe him good ones , but alfo to have pofter to turn away bad ones. Jidany men carry over with them En- gl i(h Servants , becaufe they were their School- fellow f , or their Tenants Sons ; and thefe are little ufeful for a long time , and even then when a man hath moft need of Servants. BefifleS) they are often too familiar with their Mafters^ their old Play-felloes ; and as often troublefome to their Gover- nour*, by taking their young M afters fart againft them ; and by ravelling out at night 5 as they get their M afters to Bed, all that the prudent Gover- nour hath been working in the day time. Others carry over Frenchmen with them] but thefe often , by re af on of their prerogative of Language ,

  • tohich tbeir Mafters want at.firft , get

fuch an afcendent over them ^ that they come oftentimes to be bold and fawcy with them. Ftr my part ^ J Would

have


have lots Govemour to take himneVo Servants in every place he comes to slay . and tbofe fight ly , rather than too fprightly youths : Dull people are made to tugg at the Oar of Obedience % faith Ariftotle , whiles witty people are fittir to fit at the Wz\m of Com- mand.

10.. But I am to blame to give advice /oGovernours, Vphom I fup- pofe to bewifermen thanmyfelf^ and therefore will end here , by wijhing them a good journey 5 and fafe return ? To the ejfetting of both which , J found no better fecret , than that in my laft journey } which was to be mounted up- on our own horfes {five of m together) and t& [pare for no cofi • for by this: means we went at our own rates and eat to our own minds : fo true u the Italian Proverb , Picole giorna i e C g r andi fpefe , ti conducono farao al tuo paefe.

In fae, I would have my young travel- ler make the fame prayer to God, as Apollonius Thyanaeus made to the Sun at his going oat to travel, that is , that he would be fo favorable to him as to /hew him all the Braveft and B eft Mmn the World.

b | THE


(I)


■>!tf 'o'Mq $£? *>m ?i» • ?S<? oE<> s£


SK»»apsaMiHii



THE VOYAGE

OF ITALY

Efore I come to a par- ticular defcription of Italy , as I found it in my Five feveral voyages through it, I think it notamifsto fpeak fomething in Genera! \ of the Country it felf, its Inhabitants , their Humours, Manners, Cuftoms, Riches, and Religion.

For the Country it felf , it feemed The Per- to me to be Natures Darling , tility of and the Eldeft Sitter of all other Italy. Countreys ^ carrying away from them all the greateft bleflings and favours , and receiving fuch gracious looks from the Sun and Heaven, that if there be any fault in Italy , it is that her Mother Nature hath

cockered


$ T H E V O Y A G £

cockered her too much, even to make her become Wanton : Witnefs luxu- riant Lbtnbardy , and Campania antonomaftically Fcelix ? which Fit- rut , Trogus , and Livy, think to be the beft parts of the w®rld 3 where Ceres and Bacchustft&t a perpetual ftrife 5 whether of them fliall court man the molt - (Be by filling his Barns with Corn ; he by making Us. Cellars fwimme with Wine : Whiles the other parts of Italy are fweacingout whole Forefls of Olive- trees , whole Woods of Lemmorts, and Granges y . whole Fields of Rice^ Turk} Wheat \ and Muskmillions ; and where thole £are Hills , which feem to befliaven by the Sun ? and surfed by Nature for their Barren- jnefs , are oftentimes great with child of pretious Marbles r the Ornaments <of Churches and Palaces , and the- Revenues, of Princes : witnefs the Trixceof Mafia, whofe beft Reve- nues are his^ Marble Quarries : Na- fnre here thinking it a far more noble rhing to feed Princes 5 than to feed tfheep* It abounds alfo in Siikj ? nd Silkworms $ out of which they -draw-


Of I r a l V. S

a notable profit, and for the feeding of them they keep a world of Mul- berry trees , whofe leaves are the food of thofe little worms ? whofe ex- crement is our pride ; thus, Adam like , we are clad in leaves again, but leaves once removed. It's rich alfo in Pafturage and Cattle , efpe- dally in Lombard? , where I haye feen Cheefes of an exceffive great- neis , and of a Parmefan goodnefe The furface alfo of the Eath is cover- ed with many curious Simples and wholefome Herbs : Hence fo many rare Effences , Cordials, Perfumes y Sweet Waters , and other Odoriferous D'iftilipd&ris , fo common here ,, that ordinary Barbers and Laundrcflfes will fprinkle them in your Face and perfume your Linnen with them over and above your bargain, Hence none of the meaneft things to be feen in

  • Italy \ are the Fondaries fr Stilling

Houies of the Great Vuke of Flo- rence , the Speciary or Apothecaries Shops of the Dominicans of S. Marco, and of the Auguftinstf S.j

\ Spirit o in Florence j of the Roman

e ,. and of the Mww* °£

Tib


An ch]t' [lion a- gainfi Italy. j


I


4 The Voyage

Trlmta de Monte in Rome : where even death it felf would find a cure in nature , if it were not a curfe from the author of nature. In fine , it excells in all kind of provisions, either for dyet or fport ; and I have feen in Rome whole cart-loads of Wild Boars and Venifon , brought in at once to be fold in the Market ; and above threefcore Hares in Flo- rence' brought in , in one day fey the two Companies of Hunters , the Piacevoli and Piatelli , on a general hunting day.

Yet after all this , fome cry out

againft Italy , for being too hot ; and paint us out its Air as an un- wholefome Peftilential Air ; its Sun, as an angry Comet, whofe beams are all pointed with Plagues and Feavers; and the Countrey it felf , as a place where ftarving is the only way to live in health ; where men eat by Method and Art ^ where you muft carry your body fteadily , or i clfe fpill your life ; and where there are fo many Provincial SicknefTes I andDiieafesj as the Catarrhs of Ge- ]


Of Italy. 5

ma , the Gout ot Milan , the He- morrhoids of Venice , the Falling Sickyefs of Florence , the Feavers of Rome , and the (?e^?rf of P*W-

For ray part , when I am told , Anfaer'. that there were in Times time , fourteen millions of men in Italy : Baltazar when I read that there are now £ nifaci- above three thoufand Cities in m i n fa* Italy , and moft of them Cities of Ludicra ' Carbo : when I meet with National / >I3 cl + Difeafes in every other Country, as the Kings-Evil in Spain , the Pox in Trance , the Confnmption in Portugal , the Cholick in Eng- land , the Djfentery in Gafcony, the Head-ake in Toloufe , c£r. when I refleft how this S»» hath blefled Lombardy and made Campania Hap- py : when I call to mind, that it hath filled the Cellars of Italy with above Thirty feveral forts of Wines: when I remember , what health k hath powred into feveral herbs here, what admirable fruits it furnifheth the Markets withal , what ornaments it affords to Gods Houfes , overcruft-

ing


Sol& h^ mo gene- rant hi' tninem. Plutar- chus in Gracch).

Balzac in i.W.j Liter.

The In- habitants and their

"Wits-


6 Thi Voyage

ting almoft all the chief Churches of Italy r with exquifit marbles; when I confider in fine , how this Sun hath helpt to make (o many brave Soldiers and Scholars , I dare not fpeak ill of the Sun or Air of Italy , leaft BaUac check me , as Gracchus did him who fpoke ill of his Mother , with a Tu Matri mea male diets t quae, Tiberium Grac- chum genuit ? Dareft thou fpeaf^ ill of that Sun which helpt to make Cafar?

Yes , yes , it's this great blefling of God i rearm Sun^ which hath fo throughly baked the Italian wits 9 that while (according to the obfer- vation of Charles the V-) the French appear not wife,but are wife^ the Spa- niards appear wife , b>ut are not wife • the Dutch neither appear wife, nor are wife die it«lians\)n\y both ap- pear wife , and are wife. Hence the Italians anciently afforded us thofe prodigies of wit and learning ,, and fet us hofe fair Copies in Liberal Arts and c ae.ices , which aH men follow , but none attain unto fo

much,


Of Italy 7

mucin, as thofethat write the Italian hand ; that is , the Modern Italians them felves.

Fo>r if che Italians anciently had Poets An m their Virgil, their Ovid, their Ho- cient and race , their Perfius , and Profertius Modern in Poetry , the Modern Italians in Italy, fpur dofe up to them , and have their Tap, their Petrarch, their Sam*zarit4s , their Marina , and Guarini.)

If the old Italians had their Saluft, Hifiort* Xiyia Tacitus , and Valerius Maxi- ans, mus inHiftory, the Modern Italians have their Guicciardine , . Bentivo- glio \ Bavila , #ra£» , aud Baptifta Fregofusy furnamed the fecond Va- lerius Maximus.

If the Ancient Italians had their Orators. pompous Orators, their Cicero, Hor- Prodigies ten fin* , Porcitts Latro, Jttnw Gallio, of Learn* AhI'ms Fufcus, &c. The Modern ing. Italians have their Panigarola , Man^ini, Varchi, and Loredano.

If the Antient Italians had their Vaft knowing Varro , the Modern Italians have their omnifeious Ba- rotitis , who read almoft all that o- ther men had written , and wrote

more


t>ivines.


^Philofo- fhsrs,


Archi- tects,.

1

Sculps

tors.

Painters.

Ancient and mo- de rwCap' tains.


8 The Voyage

more almoft than other n*en can read.

If the ancient Italians had their Divines , writing of the Number and Nature of their Gods , to wit , Varro and Tuffy ; the Modern Italians have their Divines too , their ini- mitable S. Thomas of Aquin , and his learned fecond Cardinal Cajetan.

If the ancient Italians had their Philofophers, their Pliny, their Cato, their Seneca , &c. the Modern Itali- ans have their Ficinus , t.heir Cardan^ and their Picus Mirandula.

If the ancient Italians had their rare Architects , Statuaries, Paint- ers; the Modern Italians have their Brunellefchi , Palladio, Fontana, and Cronaco, in Architecture • their Ban- dinelli , Donatello, Oliverio, and Ber- nini in Sculpture •, their Raphael y Michad Angelo ^Titian and Sarto , in Painting.

If in fine , the ancient Italians had their brave Captains , their Scipio, DuUms j Marias , and Cafar-, the Modern Italians have their Scipio too , to wit , their Alexander Farneje , whofe true aftions make

Romances


Of Italy. 9

Romances blufli , having done that really s which Fables can fcarce faign in galamry ^ their Duilim I too , to wit , their Andrea Dona the IV ef tune of the LigurUn Seas , who alone taught his Countrey not toferve; their Marine z\to t to wit, j their brave Caftruccio, who from a ' Common Soldier mounted up by defcrts to the higheft Military Com- mands in the Emperors Army j and fo ftitched his fortune as he went a- [ long to Honours , that it never ra- velled out again , or failed him .• In fine , their Ca/ar too 3 to wit, the Marquis Spinola , or rather , the Achilles of Italy 5 who took that Troy of o fiend after three years Sieged This Siege was far more famous than that of Troy ^ becaufe far truei*. For in the Siege of Troy it was Poetry onely that made the war , that framed and filled the Wooden Horfe with Worthies ; that See Ver- dragged Hetlor round about the ftegan in walls ; it was Pen and Ink that his Refii- killed fo many men fomno vinoque tution of fepultot j and Troy was eafily burnt. Decayed becaufe it was built of Poets Paper. Intelli-

But genet.


10 The V oy a g i

But at ofiend all was real , and all Europe <almoft , who had their forces , or eyes there , were witneffes of it •, and all this done by Spinola an Italian The Ita~ As f° r tne Italian humor 3 it is a: Han Hu- middling humor , between too much vtour. gravity of the Spaniard, and too great levity of the French, Their gravity is • not without fome fire^nor their levity I without fome fleam^ They are apifh enough in Cameval time 5 and upon their Stages , as long as the Vifard is on ; but that once oa% they are too wife to play the Fools in their own Names, and own it with their own; Faces. T hey have ftrong fa ncies 9 and yet (olid Judgments ; A happy tem- \ per 3 which makes them great prea- chert. Politicians, and Jngeneers ; buc ; withal they are a little too melancholy \ and jealous : They are great Lovers of their Brethren and near Kindred , as the fir ft Friends they are acquainted withal by Nature ; and if any of them lie in pafs and fair for advance- ment , all the reft of his Relations will lend him their Purfes , as well

as


Of Italy. II

•as their Shoulders , to help him up , though he be but their jyouhger Brother. They are fparing ill Diet, both for to live in health , andtolivehandfomly : making their Bellies contribute to the maintenance of their Backs , and their Kitchen help to the keeping of their Sta- ble, They are ambitious ftill of Honours , remembring they are the Succeflbrs of the Matters of the the World , the Old Romans ; and to put the World fUll in mind of it , they take to themfelves the glori- ous Names of Camilla , Scipione , Julio ^ Mario , Fompeo, &c. They are as fenfible alfo of their Honour, as defirous of Honours • and this makes them ftrickt to their Wives, even to jealoufie , knowing that for one Cornelius Tacitus , there have been ten Publii Cornelii • and that Lucius Cornificius is the moft affront- ing man. They are hard to be plea- jfed, when th y have been once red (hot with offence ^ but they will not meet revenge in the face , and field • and they will r.itber hire it, jthan take it. In fine, they aflfeft very

much


Their Man- ners.


12 The Voyage much compounded names, as Pic-, colominl 5 Cafiltipo , Bentivoglio 3 Malefpina ^ £ oncompagzo $ Malvez,-

  • ,i , Riccobono , Mai ate ft a 5 Ho-

model 3 and fuch like married Names.

As for their Manners , they are moft commendable. They have taught them in their Books , they See Mm. P ra ^^ e tnem m tne ' r anions > fanorCa- anc * ^ey ^ ave *P red t ^ em a b r <>ad za ste- over a *' E Hro P e y which owes its phano Civility unto the Italians y as well as Guazzo ns R e ^gi° n - They never affront Baltaz^ar ^ ran g ers m wnat Habit foever they Caftirtio- a PP ear i and if the ftr ^genefs of „ p the Habit draw the Italians eye to

it , yet he will never draw in his mouth to laugh at it. As for their. Apparel or Drefs , it's common- ly Black and Modeft. They value, no bravery but that of Coach and Horfes and Staffers ; and they facri- j fice a world of little fatisfa&ions to- that main one of being able to keep a Coach. Their Points de Venice , RiUans and Geld Lace , are all turned into Horfes and Liveries •, and that Money which we fpend in Treats and j

Taverns, ]


Of I T? A L Y. 1 2

Taverns , they fpend in Coach and Furniture. They never whifper pri- vately with one another in company, nor fpeak to one another aloud in an unknown tongue when they are in converfation with others, think- ing this to be no other then a lowd whifpering.

i. hey are precife in point oF Ce- Their Ct- remonj and Reception ; and are not remcmes puzzled at all , when they hear a great man is coming to vifit them. There's not a man of them , but he knows how to entertain men of all conditions; that is, how far to meet, how to place them , how to ftile and treat them, how to reconduct: them, and how far. They are good for Nunciatures t Embajfies , and State Employments , being men of good be- havior , looks , temper , and dif- cretion , and never out-running their bufinefs. They are great Lovers of Mttfic^ Medda/s 3 Statues , and J J i- ttures , as things which either di-

vert their Melancholy , or humor it :

and I have read of one Jacomo Rape' ., ro a Shoomaker of Bdognia , who guhered together fo many curious

Meddals


Their particu- lar Cu-

flows.


14 The ■' Voyage Meddals of Gold , Silver , anct Bra fs, as would have become the Cabinet of any Prince. In fine ^ they are extreamly civil to one another, not onely out of an awe they ftand in one towards another , not knowing whofe turn it may be next , to come to the higheft Honours ; but alfo out of a Natural Gravity and Civil Education , which makes even School- boys ( an infolent Nation any where elfe) moft refpe&ful to one ano- ther in words and deeds j treat- ing one another with fcfira Signoria, and abflaining from a|l gieco di ma- no. Nay Matters chemfelves here , never, bea-t their Servant , but remit them tojuftice, if the fault require it, and I cannot remember to have heard in Rome , two Women fcold publickly, or Man and Wife quarrel in words , except once ^ and then they did it fo privatly and fecretly, and fcolded in fuch a low tone , that I perceived the Italians had r-eafon about them even in the midft of their choler.

As for their particular Cftftoms, they are many. They marry by their

ears,


.of Italy. 15

Cars , ofrener then by their eyes ; and fcarce fpeak with one another, till they meet before the Parifli Prieft, to fpeak the indifTolvablc words of tt>ft//0d^They make children to go bareheaded, til! they be four or five years old, hardning them thus againft rheums and catarrhes when they fhall be old Hence few peo- ple in Italy goe- fo warm on their heads, as they do in France ; men in their houfes wearing nothing upon their heads but a little calotte ; and Women for the moft part, going all bareheaded in the midfl: of Winter it £#. Women here alfo wafh their heads weekly in a wafh made for the nonce , and dry them agiin in the Sun , to make their hair yel- low, a colour much in vogue here among Ladyes. The men throw of their hats, cuffs, and bands, as well as their cloaks, at their return home from vifits, or bufiniefs, and put on a gray coat , without which they cannot dine , or fup h and I have been ivited to dinner by sn Italian , who before dinner , made his men cakorf our hats and Cloaks, B and


16 Th e Voy a ge

and prefent every one of us ( and we were five in all ) with a coloured coate, and a little cap to dine in. At dinner they ferve in the beft meats firft , and eat backwards, that is, they begin with the fecond courfe, and end with boyld meat and pottage. They never prefent you with fait, orbrainesof any fowle,leaft. they may feem to reproach unto you want of wit. They bring you drink upon a Sottocoppa of filver, with three or four glafTes upon it - 3 Two or three of which are ftrait ncckt glalTes ( called there caraffas ) full of feveral fortsM)^ wines or water , and one empty* drinking glaffe, into which you may powr what quantity of wine and water you pleafe to drink , and! not (land to the diferetion of th^ waiters as they do in ocher Counn tries. At great feafls, no man cut^ for himfelf, but feveral Carvers art up all the meat at a fide table , arid give to the waiters, to be carry-! ed to the Gueflsj and every onfl hath the very fame part of meal carried unto him, to wit, JPfrftl

and


of Italy. 17

and a legg of wild fowl, &c. ieaft any one take exceptions that others were better ufed then he. The Carvers never touch the meat with their hands, but only with their knife and fork, and great filver fpoon for the fauce. Every man here eats with his fork and knife, and never touch- eth any thing with his fingers , but his bread : this keeps the linnen neat, and the fingers sweet. If you drink to an Italian^ he thanks you , with bending, when you falute him , and lets you drink quietly , without watching (as we do in England) to thank you again when you have drunk : and the firft time he drinks after that will be to you, in requital of your former courtefy.

Iliey count not the hours of the day as we do, from twelve to twelve; but they begin their count from Sun.fet, and the firft hour after [un- fit is cm a clok, •, and fo they count on till four and twenty , that is till the next Sun- fee sgain. I have often dined at fixteen a clock , and gone abroad in the Evening, to take B ij the


Nomtn , quafi no- tamen. S.Aug.


iS The Voyage

the arye, at two and twenty They call men much by their Chriftian names, Signor Pie.ro , Signor Fran- cefco y Signor fucomo, &c. and you may live whole years with an Ita- lian , and be very well acquainted with him without knowing him , that is, without knowing his diftin- ftive furname. People of quality ne- ver vifit one another, but they fend firft \ to know-when they may do it without troubling him they intend to vifit : by bf this means they never rufli into one anothers Chambers without knocking , as they do in France •, nor crofs the defigns or bufinefs of him they vifit, as they do in England with tedious dry vi- fits; nor finde one another either undreffed in clothes, unprovided in compliments and difcourfe, or with- out their attendants, and train about them. In theftreets men and women of condition , fcldome or never go together in the fame Coach, except they beflrangers, that is, of an other Town, or Country : nay husbands and wives are fcldome feen together in the fame Coach, becaufeall men

do


of Ital y. ip

do riot know them to be fo. In the ftreets, when two perfons of great quality meet, as two Embaffadours, or two Cardinals , they both flop their coaches, and compliment one another civilly, and then retire- but ftill lie that is inferiour muft let the others coach move firflr. If any man being a foot in the ftreet , meet a great man , either in coach , or a foot, he muft not falute him in going on his way, a£we do in England and France , without flopping h but he muft ftand ftill whiles the other paf- feth, and bend refpe&fuliy to him ns • he goes by , and then continue his march. In fine, of all the Nations I have feen, I know none thnt lives, clothes, eates, drinks, c nd fpeakes fomuch withreafon, as the Italians do.

As for their Riches, they muft Their needs be great. That which is vi- Riches. fible in their magnificent Pattaces , Churches , Monaileries , Gardens , Fountaines , and rich furnifhed Roomes, fpeakes that to be great which is in their Coflfe s: and that which the King of Spain draws vifibly B iij from


ThrirRe-

Hih>».


20 The Voyage

from Naples every year , (hews what the other parts of Italy could do for a need, if they were pat to it by neceflicy. Nay, I am of opini- on , that the very Sacriftj of Loreto t the Gallery of the Duke of Florence, and the Treafnry of Venice , would upon an emergent occafionof a Go- thic^, or Turklfh invafion, be able to maintain an army for five years fpace^ and the Plate in Churches and Mona- &eryes , would be able to do as much more, if the owners of it were found- ly frighted with a new Got hick, irrup- tion. As for. the Riches of particular JPriwes in Italy t lwiW fpeakof them, as I view their States here below.

In fir.?, as for thcif Religion, its purely that which other Coun- tryes call by the name Catholique • and which in England they com- monly call, the Religion of the Papifts. And though there they think to nickname the CachoJick by calling him Papift , yet the well in- ftru&ed Gatholick knowing that the name of Papift, comes not from any Seft-mafter, as, Soci-

nian.


of Italy, a i

nian fl and Brownift do ; nor frota any Settarj Meeting ylace , as Hugo- noes from the Gate of Hugo in Tour j in France , near unto which they met privately at firft to teach and dogmatife; nor from any pub- lick fedtary action , as Anabaptifts , Dippers, Quakers, &c. do : but from the word Papa, which fignifies Fa- ther l and is not the name of -any one man , or pope , but onely fig- nifies his Fatherly office of Paftor ; the Catholick , I fay , is no more troubled at this name of Papift, then he was when he was called in the late troubles, Royallifc (for adhe- ring to the King 9 which is not the Rex tf name of any of our Kings , but his ^men of- Office onely) and not CrommlUft , fi ct *- which was the name of one adhe- S.Ambr* ring to a particular man called Crom- yoely and an unlawful ufurper of Power. As for the true name in- deed, which is Catholic^ all thofe of that Church have ever called themfelves by no other Rime then this of Catholick, the wifeft of Protectants alfo ac- B iiij knowledge


22 The Voy a g e

knowledge it publickly to be their diftin&tve name: witnefs that fo- lemne meeting at Munfter , fome years agoe, about the General Peace of Chriftendome, where thePublick Jnflrument of that Peace (heweth plainly how that the Proteftant Plenipotentiaries ( the wifeft men of that Religion) treated with the Pa- pifts, as fome call them , under the name of Cath dicks : and though in many other titles and denominati- ons, they Were very wary andferu- pulous, even to the long fufpenfion of the Peace, yet they willingly conclu- ded , fubferibed , and figned that Peace made with them, under the ^mmeofCatholicks. I fay this onely, Vor to make men anderftand , what the 'true name of the Religion prac- tifed over all Italy is, to wit, £*-

tholicki

Having faid thus much of Italy in general, I will now come to a parti- cular Defcription of it, according to the ocular Obfervations I made of it in five feveral Voyages through it. In which Defcription, if I be a little prolixe, it is becaufe I rid not

Pofte


.of Italy. 23

Pofte through Italy, when I faw it • nor will I write pofte through it, in defcribing it^ being aflured, that Epitomes in Geography are as diffa- tisfaSory, as Laconick Letters would be in State Relations- and that the great Atlas , in nine great volumes in folio, is not onely Atlas Major, but alfo Atlas Melior.

The federal wayes by which a man may go into Italy.

TH E ordinary wayes which an Englishman may take in going into Italy, are five : to wit, either through Flanders and Germany, and fo to fall in at Trent , or Trevifa and fo to Venice. Or elfe by France, and fo to Marfeilles , and thence to Ge- noa by Sea. Or elfe by land from Lyons through SVeifferland , the Gri- fens Country, and the Kaltoline, and fo pop up at BrefcU. Or elfe from Lyons again throisgh the Valeftans Country, over Moant Sampicn, the Lake Major, and fo to Milan. Or elfe in fine , fram Lyons ftill , over Mount Ctnit, and fo to Twin , the B v neareft


24 The Voy age

reared Poft-way. I have gone , or come, all thefe wayes, in my five voyages into Italy , and though I preferre the laft forfpeed and con- veniency; yet I will defcribe the •thers too , that my young Travel- ler may know how to fleer his courfe , either in time of Plague or warre.

My fir ft Voyage into Italy,

MY firft voyage was through F landers iw& Germany, and fo to Trent. The way is, from England \ 10 Dnnkirc^ from thence to Fnrnc 9 N export ,0 ft end, Bruges ,G ant, Brttf- fels, Lovain, Liege, Colen, Mayence , Franc ford, and fo cro fling to Mtt- mchen , the Court of the Duke of Bavaria, and from thence to Ah- fiurg, and lnff>rnck^> you come foon to Trent , which ftands upon the Confines of Germany i and lets you into Italy, by Trevifo belonging to the Venetians. To defcribe all thefe forefaid places would take me too much time from my defign of «ldcribiHg Jtaly, and therefore I

content


of Ita^ly. 25

content my felf onely to have named them.

Myfecond Voyage.

MY fecoud Voyage was by the way of France, where I ftarted from Paris, and made towards Ly- ons i in the way I took notice of thefe places.

Yffme a neat houfe belonging then to Monfiear Ejfolin. The houfe Tfofft, isfo pretty, that I think it worth the Travelers feeing, and my/defcri- bing. It (lands in the (hade of a thick grove of Trees, and is wholly built and furniftied aV Italian*. Un- der the fide of the houfe runns a little Brook, which being received into a Bafon of Free-ftone, juft as long as the houfe, and made like a (hip , ( that is , (harp at both ends and wide in the middle) it is cloven, and divided into two, by the (harp end of this (hip, and conveighed in clofe channels of free-ftone, on both fides of the (hip or bafon , into which it empties it felf by feveral tunnels, or pipes : fo that all this water

fpouting


a6 The Voy age

fpoutinginto the open ftiip on both fides , by four and twenty tunnels, makes under the windowes of the houfe fuch a perpetual purling of water, ( like many fountaines ) that the gentle nofe is able to make the moft jealous man fleep profoundly. At the other end of the houfe this water iffueth out of the other end of the fnid ftiip , and is courteoufly intreated by feveral hidden pipes of lead, t® wa'k into the houfe, in ftead of running by fo faft : Which it doth, and is prefently led into the Cellars, and Buttery , and not onely into thefe, but alfo into the Kitchin, tables, chambers, and bathing room , all which it furniftieth with water either for neeefficy or «pleafure. Then being led into the curious garden, its met there by a world ©f little open channells of free-ftone, built like knors of flowers- all which it fills brimfull, and makes even Flowers of water. Then running •v.p and down here and there a- oiong the fragrant delights of this g rden 9 as if it had forgotten its

errand


of Italy. 27

errand to the Sea, it feems to be fo taken with thofe fweet beds of flow- ers, and fo defirous of refting upon them, after fo many miles running, that it offers to turn it felf into any poftnre, rather then be turned out of this fweet place.

From Tjfonne I came to Fontain- p omta i n belleau, where I faw that Kingly foff eaUt houfe , the Nonfuch of France, It ftands in the midft of & great Forrefi full of Royal Game, and the place of delight of Henry the Fourth. The houfe is capable of lodging four Kings with their feveral Courts. The Court The court of the Cheval Blanc is a noble fquare tftheChe- of Buildings: but thelownefs of the valBlanc Buildings and Lodgings (hews , they are for the Lower Sort of people, and the Servant- Lodgings to the Royal Apfartiment s. The Oval Court TheOval' is a good old Building. The Kings Court. and Queens Lodgings with their Ca- binets groan under their rich guilt roofs. 1 he Gallery of Staggs heads is aftately room, then which nothing TheGaU c\n be more Cavalierly furnifhed; hry of ^ exept fuch an other gallery hung flaggs ' with Turkifi fiandards won in heads. ,

war


CCS.


2% Th e Voyage

The Gal- w arre. The other long Galleries of

leries of Romances and Fables, painted by

Roman- Simon Vojet and others, are much

efteemed : the onely pity is, that

fuch true painting (hould not have

been employed upon true Hifto-

ries.

The Salel The Salle of the Conference, is a (lately

oftheCon- Roome, where the Bifliop of Eureux

ference. (afterwards called the Cardinal du

See the Perron) in prefence of King Henry

pnhlkk^ the Fourth, the Chancellor, five fud~

Atts of ges of both Religions-, and the whole

this Con- Room full of learned men , difputed

ference with Monfieur Plejfis Mornaj , the

printed Achilles of thofe oiCharenton y The

4».i6ox. Hall of Maskes, and the Lodgings

. of Madame Gabrielle with her pi-

Madame ^ Hn 0Vfif ^ C h' mn y like a Diana

Gabrtells j lunt i n g j arc fi ne Roomes : yet the

p&ure, fa t pi^ure cannot hinder men from

blaming her foul life •, nor from cen-

TheChaf faring that Solcecifm of the Pain


pels.


ter, who rmde chafte Diana look like Madame Gabrielle. There are alfo here two Cbappels t Jthe old andtha new. The old cne is a poor thing h and feems to have ben built

for


of Italy. 25?

tor hunters : but the new one is both neat and ftarely, and built upon this occafion, as a Bifhop in France told me. A Spanijb Embaffadottr refiding in Paris in Henry the IV. his time ; went one day from Paris to Fohntainblean , to fee this French Efcurial. Arriving, he lighted af- ter his Countryes fafliion , at the Chappel door (the old Chappel) and entringin, to thank God for his fafe ariyal , he wondred to fee fo poor and dark a Chappel, and asking with indignation, whether this were the Cafa di dios ? the houfe of God ? he tamed prefently away withfcorn s faying, No ejuiero Veer mad •, I care for feeing no more: not flaying to fee that place,where the King had fo fine a houfe, and God fo poor a Chanel. i his being told the la ft King Lewis the XIII- he commanded forthwith t'le new Chappel to be built in that fumptuous pofturc we now fee it.

Going out of the houfe, ycu finde a handfome JWail, and Rare Pwdj of water, which even baptize

this


f


go The Voyage

this place with the name of Fountain- bellem. In thefe Ponds, as alfo in the moat about the houfe, are conferved Old Carps exce ^ ent Carps ; fome whereof were faid to be an hundred years old : which though we were not bound to believe^ yet their very white fcales, and dull moving up and down , might make men believe that there are gray fcales , as well as gray hairs; and decayed fifties; as well as decrepid men : efpecially when Columella fpeaks of a fifh of his acquaintance, in Cafars fifti ponds near Paufilippus, which had lived threefcore years ; and Gefnerus re- lates, thai in a fifti-pond near Hayl- frum in Suabe , a fifli was catched anno 1497, with a brafs ring at his gills, in which were ingraven thefe words : J am the firflflfh which Frederkkjhe fecond , Governour of the world put into this Pond the 5 of Otlo- her 1203. By which ic appears, that this fifh had lived two hundred and fixty odd years. Bnt to return again to our Carps of Fountainbel- leait, Its an ordinary divertifement here, to throw an halfpenny loaf into

the


De Re

Rufl.


X


of Italy. 31

r he moat among the Carps, and to fee how they will mumble and jum- ble it to •and fro • how others will puff a nd ffitifT, and take it ill noj to have part of it , and how in fine, they will plainly fall to blows, and fight for it. You would wonder , how fuch hot paflions fliould be found in cold wa- ter : but every thing that lives, will fight for that which makes it live, its Vittails.

Having feen Fountainbelleati, I faw An old one extraordinary thing in the reft of jnfcripti- the way to Lj/ens,hut an old Infcrip- onconcer- tion\n letter* of gold, upon a wood- *»w £„- den Ft brick, a mile before Icarne to nHn )r Montargjs , importing , that the £*- g/*/& being encamped here , had been Forced torafe their Siege before Mm- targU t by reafon of great raynes and fudden inundations. Some of the French Hiftorians will have it, that it was the Count de Tinnoisfixzx. forced theEnglifti toraife the Siege here: but I had rather believe publick in- fcriptions , then private flattery .• and it was more honourable for the Englijh to be overcome by God, then by men.

From


32 Th e Voyag e

Momy from hence I patted through gis. Montargis, a neat pleafant Town ;

in the great Hall of whofe Cafile , is painted thehiftory of the dog that fought a Duel with the Murderer of his Af after •, and it is not ftrange chat the dog that had put on humanity , overcame him that had put it off, to efpoufe the devouring humour of a Dog. This is the chief Town of the ( • Gdftinois. Brim* From hence I went to Brian where I faw the cut Channel that joynes The Oft' L i re anc i § ent together in Trafick, 'ytnttionof whofe bedds otherwife (land wide ^Loireand from one another in fcituation. Kfw. From thence tQCo/w, la Ckarite,

Tougues famous for wholefome (link- ing waters ; Neures, famous for glafs tioufes : Moulin* famous for knives andScizars: La Palijfe where they make excellent Winter r boots : Ro- Attne where Loire begins to be navi- gable , and fo over Terrara hills to Lions.

Lyons. Lyons is one of the greateft and richeft towns in France It (lands npon the Rivers Saont , and Rhofne y ( Araris and Rhodanus ) and inter- cepting


o f It a l y. 33

cepting all the merchandize of Bur- gondy % Germany, and Italy , It licks its fingers notably , and thrives by ir. It exprefleth this in its books : for here you have handforae people ; no- ble houfes, great jollity, frequent Balls, and much bravery : all markes of a good town : and could it but in- tercept either the Par'ament of Aix^ or Grenoble^ it would be as noble as its name/otzs its Cathedral Chapter % Amble whofe Dean and Prebends are all Chapter, Counts , and noble of four defcents : They got the title of Counts thus : A. great eonteft arifing between the Chapter of St. John's Church, and the Count de Forrefts called Guigo, tor fome rights over the Town of Lyons which they both pretend to j at laft anno n 66. they came to an Agree- ment , upon this condition , that the Count fliould leave to the Chapter his County oiForrefts ; which he did ; aud fo ever fince the Dean and Prebends have been called Counts of S. John.

Thechiefthingstobe feen inXj- otfjarethefe.

I. The great Church , or Cathe- dral


34


Th e Voyage


S, Johns droit called Johns Chunk Its the Church. L Seat of an Archbijhof^ who is 2s>»- w^f of GWe. S. Iren&us was a great ornament of this Church, as was alfo Eucherim. Upon folemn dayes the Cartons officiate in Miters like Bi- fhops. They fing here all the Office by heart, and without book, as alfo without prick-fong Mufick, Organs, or other Internments, ufing only the ancient plain-fong. The High Al- tar is like thofe of Italy , that is open on all fides, with a Crucifix and two little candle'fticks upon it I never faw any hangings in this Church, not upon the greateft daycs, but Venerable old walls. The clock here is much cryed up for a rare piece. The town 2. The {lately new Town-houfe, of Uoftfi, pure white-free-ftone, able to match that of Amfterdam > y and indeed they feemed to me to be twins •, for I faw them both in the fame year as they were in building. The curious ftair- cafe, and Hall above, are the things moft worthy taking notice of> the one for its contrivance; the other

for


o f It a l y. 35

for its painting. ' Other

3. The Jefuits Coliedge -and fair Rarities. Library. 4 The Carthufians Mo- naftery upon a high Hill. 5 . The Mi- nimes Sachrifty well painted. 6. The reft of the old Aquedud upon the Hill. 7. The Mail, and the fweet place of Belle Conr. 8, The Heart pT Saint Francis de Sales in the Church of the Visitation in Belle Cour- 9. The Charite where all the poor are kept at work wirh admira- ble ceconomy: It looks like a little Town , having in it nine Cour^jBk built up with lodgings for the poor;* who are about fifteen hundred , and divided into feveral CiafTes, with their feveral Refer. ories and Chap- pels, 10. The Head of St Bona- venture in the Cordeliers Church. 11. The Callle Of Pierre Ancife , built upon a Rock. 1 2. *Noftre Dame de Fourier (landing upon a high hill, from whence you have a perfect view of Lyons. . The rare

13 Lafily, the rare Cabinet of Cabinet

Monfiear Servier a moft ingenious of Monfi-

gentleman; where I faw moft rare eurSer~ experiments in Mathematicks and vier.

Meawicks


36 The Voyage

Mechankhj ; all made by his own hand ♦ as the Sympathetica! balls , one fpringingup at the approach of the other held up a pretty diftance off : the demonftration of a quick way how to pafs an army over a ri- ver with one boat, and a woodden bridge eafily to be foulded up upon one cart ; the Afoufe-dyal , where little thing, like a moufe , by hec infenfible motion , markes the hours] of the day T he Lizard-Dial much like the former, onely the moufe moves upon a plain frame ol wood which hath the hours marJ ked on it •, and the Lizard creeps upward from hour to hour. Thd night dyal , (hewing by a lighted lamp fet behind it, the hours o| the night , which are painted iri colours upon oyled Paper , and turri about as the time goes. The Torj toife-djal , where a piece of Corl cut like a Tortoife , being put in] to a peuter difti of water, whicH hath the twelve hours of the daV marked upon its brims, goeth ujj and down the water a while , feekj ing out the hour of the day thai

is


of It a ly. 37

is then, and there fixing ic felf without (Hiring. The Rare engine te: itl ing how to throw G^anado s in- to bdeiged • i owns , and inco any precife place without failing. The way how te fei up a watch- Tower with a man in it, to look into a Town from without; and fe how they are drawn up within the Town : A way how to change di- ning Rooms three or four times, with their Tables, the Seats and Guefts, being by the turning of a wheele tranfported fitting, out of one Roome into another - 9 and fo into three or four more Roomes varioufly hung with tab'es covered. The Desk^djd y which throws up a little Bill of Ivory without reft, and thereby rmrketh t(ie hour of the day, and {heweth what a clock it is : the Dyal of the Planets repre- fenting the dayes of the week by feveral figures in ivory of the Pla- nets : the Oval Dyd in which the need e that markes the hours, (hrin- keth in, or ftretcheth out it felf according as the oval goes: the Dyal (hewing to every one thac

toucheth


Vienne.


Tonrn n.

Faience.

Pern S. Ejprtt.

Avignon,


38 The Voyage

touch ech it his predominant pajpon ; with a world of other rare curiofi- ties, all made made by this ingenious gentleman.

Leaving Lyons, I embarked in a Ctbmne, or litde covered boat, and defcending the rapid Rhofne, I came pofte by water , to Vienne ; where Pontius Pilate , banifhed hither, threw himfelf off a high Tower, and killed himfelf The Cathedral of this Town is a fair Church de- dicated to God , in the Honour of St. Maurice : there are neither Pictures, nor h.mgings in this Church.

From hence I went to Tournon, where I faw a good Library in the Co Hedge.

Thence to faience in Daufh'we , whtreXdw is taught.

From whence I c:i me to Pont Saint Lffirit famous for its long bridge of thirty three arches^andfor the bones of a Gjant which are conferved in the Dominicans Convent here - y And from hence to Avignon.

Avignon is the head Town of a ' little Country , called Vulgarly the

Contad s


of Italy. 39

Le Cent vd d' Avignon. It belongs to the Pofe, having been purchafed by one of his Predeceffors anci- ently of fane, Queen of Naples and Count e[s of Avignon : and it ferved for a fafe retreat todivers Popes con- fecutively , during the troubles of Italy which lafted above feaventy years. At laft, Italy and the Popes Territories there , being cleared by the admirable Courage and Conduct of brave Cardinal Albornozzo, who conquered again all the Popes eftate, The Pope Gregory the XI. returned home again to Rome. Of the fore- faid Cardinal Albornozzo I cannot omit to tell one thing ; That after his great fervices rendered to the Pope , being envied by fome of the Court, who had perfwaded his Holinefs to call him to an Accompc for the great Summes of Money he had fpent in reducing again the whole State of the Pope unto its Obedience; le brought the next morning a Cart laden with chained bolts, locks, and Keyes belonging Once to thofe Townes which he had retaken for the Pope, and pla- C ced


The'jrari- ties.


40 The Voyage

ed it under the Popes window : then going up, onedefiring his Holinefs to draw to a window to fee his Ac- compts the better , he opened the window, and (hewed him below, the Cart laden with chains , kit s, locks and keyes ; faying , Holy Father, I spent all your mony in making you ma' fier again of thofe To\\>ns whofe keyes t locks, bolts and chains you fee in that Cart below. At which the Pope admiring, defire<J nomore Accompt of him , who proved his Honefty by whole (art-loads of Services. Ever fince that time , Avignon hath belonged to the Pope-, and he go- verneth it by a Vice-Legat imme- diately , the Popes Nephew pro tem- pore , being alwayes Legat of this Town.

The things I fawhere were thefe: 1. The Cathedral Churchy with di- vers lombes of Popes in it that dy- ed here. 2 . 1 he Church of S. Di- dier, with the Tombe of Petrus Da- mianm who followed the Pope hi- ther.- He was famous for his Ler. ned works, and his known f r.&i- ty. 3. The Church cf the Celefiins ,

With ]


OF I T-'AL Y. 4.x

with the Tomfa, and neat Chappel of Cardinal Peter of ^uxenburg , a young man of a great family, and of a greater fan&ity. 4, The Carthn- fians Monaftery in the Bourge of Vil- leneuuc, where you ihalJ fee much good punting. 5. The Dominicans fair Convent, with the Chappel and true Picture of St. Vimentim Ferrerius a holy man of this Order. 6. The Cordeliers Church famous for its widenefs, and yet not fup- ported by any Pillars. Here lyes bu- ried Madame Laura rendrered fo famous by Petrarchs Verfes : not that fhe was a diflioneft: woman, but onely chofen by him, to be the poe- tical miftrefs of his Sonnets. 7. The Church of the Fathers of the Chrifti- WDottrine, with the body, yet en- tire, of the Founder of their order p, Cafar de Bm t a man of fuoh lingu- lar Sanftity, that Cardinal Ricblieu banifhed hither, whiles he was one- ly Bifhop of LufoH t offered and vow- ed a filver Lamp to God at the Tombe of this holy Bcato. 8. The fine Free-ftone walls of this Town , the admirable Bridge , many han- C i\ fome


Lrf&


'M«rfiil' les.


42 The Vo y age

fome Pallaces, and curious Gardens. 9. The trading of this Town, which confifts much in (ilk-fluffs, perfumed gloves, ribands, and fine Paper. 10. The inhabitants here , who love to go well adjufted and appear in fine clothes.

From Avignon I went by Land to Aix in Provence, £VniverfityfK Par- liament town, and one of the neatefl: towns in France : of the Parliament of this town Menfieur da Vair was theftrftprefidenc, and a lingular Or- nament, by reafon of his famous elo- quence. This town is the feat of an Archbidiop; and is now poffeffed by Cardinal Grimaldi who is Arch' bijhop- here. From hence I went to Marfeilles.'

Marfeilles is a very ancient town, built 63 3 years before our Saviours time, and fo famous antiently for learning, that it was compared with Athens. It Hands upon the Medi- terranean Sea, and hach a mod neat Haven and harbour for (hips and gallyes; 1 flayed here eight days to wait upon the return of two Gal- lies of Genua y that had bro^hc

an


of Italy.


43


an EmbaiTadour from thence into France, and were to return within a few dayes. In this time, I had lei- sure to make a little excurfive Voy- age to the famous place of Devoti- on called LaSainte Beattme, where Lafainte S. Alary Magdalen lived a moft pe- Baume. nitential life in thefe Mountains and defertt, even atter (he had been af- SeeBaw fured of her pardon by our Saviour n im ad himfelf. The place it felf is able to ^.35. make any man that confidereth it Gordons well j melt into fome pennance too, Croncfo- and figh at leaft ; to fee how much gy. Ge- (lie (a woman) did, and how lit- %-ard of tie he (a man) doth^ for excellent Na^a- tijfima animadvertmti , ne mediocria nth in a quid em pr aft are , rnborl oportet ejje , treat ife faith a great Author, In Marfdlles ex pro- it felf there remain fome prints of feflb. her begun pennance : but (he that _, . had been a (inner in the City (and * r ' perchance by that occafion onely) ' * thought the Defert a fafer place ; and Matter fo (hewed her converfion to be true, peccatrix by flying the occafions of her former incivita- fins. *e.

If you ask me, how Mary Mag- ^ dak* came hither ; I mut ask


iij


you>


See Ba* ron.an.%% Gextffrad Gamier. Chaffa- uas and Wonfieur du Fair.


S.Maxi


rmn.


44 The Voyage

you, how fofeph of Aramathea came into England: and learned Ba- ronius will anfwer us both •, by telling us, that upou a perfection raifed againft the Chriflians in Hierufalem-,- Mary Magdalen , her fifter Mar- tha, her brother Lazarus, with Jo- feph of Arimathea, and diversothers of the firft Chriflians , were expofed to Sea in a (hip without fayles, with- out rudder, without anchor, with-^ out pilot,andyet thefhip came happi- ly to Marfeills , where Lazarus preaching the faith of Chrifl, was nnde the firft Bifliop of this Town ; and fofeph of Arimathea came inco England

Near to Saintle Beaume ftands the Town of 5. Maximin famous for the Church of S. Maximin go- . vemed by Dominican Friers : In this Church are to be feen many famous Re liquet of S. Mary Magdalen ; as her head in a Chryftal cafeencha- fed in gold: her body in a guilt chafe, and divers other rich things.

Having feen Marfeilles, I em- barVed in the forefaid Gallies , and was nine dayes in them before I

dtrived


of.Ital y. 45

arrived at Genoa -, having feen in the Way, Toulon, Nice, Antibo, Monaco, Skvaua, and fo to Genua.

Thus I paffed,though tedioufly,yet fecurely from France into Italy by Sea : and I could almoljt wifh my Traveller to take the fame Courfe, if he were fure to finde two Gallies well manned, as 1 did, to carry him thither. Ocherwife to venture him - (elf ( as men ordinarily with extra- ordinary danger do ) in a little Fe- luca, a boat little bigger then a pair of Oares, is a thmg I would wifh none to do , but Pyrronians , and Indiffc- Pyrrha rents who think danger and fecunty dicebat, to be the time thing. For my part , nihil in- though I dare not fay with that cow- terejfe i»~ ardly Italian, who being laughed at tervitam for his running away in a battle, an- & mov fwered •, / was not affraid , but onely tern* had a minde to try how long a mans shin well ksft would lafi : yet i dare fay with generous Cato, that I repent - me foundly, if ever I went by water, when I could have gone by Land.


C jv


My


46 The Voya ge My Third Voyage.


Geneva.


7 he rari.

Jirs.


MY third Voyage into Italy was again by the way of Paris and Lyons: but now by Geneva and Swifferland.

Parang then from Lyons I paffed over the Grand Cre do, a fmart hill; through Nantna (landing upon a Lake , and in two dayes came to Geneva.

Geneva is built at the bottom of Savoy , France , and Germa- ny.

The things which I faw in Geneva werethefe: i. The great Church of S. Peter, the Cathedral a nticntly of the Bifhop of this Town. In the Jguire I faw yet remaining the Pic- tures of the twelve Prophets on one fide, and the pictures of the twelve Affiles on the other fide, all engra- ven in wood. The pictures alfo of the Bleffed Virgin Mary, and S. Pe- ter, in one of the windows. Here alfo I faw the Tombe of the Duke of

Bouillon


of Italy. 47

Bouillon General of. the , Army of Germans, called then in France the Reiters, who rn the battle of Aul- ' neat* were beaten by the Duke of Guife and forced to fly to Geneva , having loft 1800 of their men upon the place, moft of them with charmes about their necks , which they thought would have made them fliot-free. Mounting up to the ftee- ple 4 I faw a fair Bell with a Cruci- fix caft upon it , fliewing whofe it was j and four good pieces of Ord- nance, that none may fay, the Church of Geneva wants Ecclejiafii* cd Cannons. And a little below in the Belfree , there live in feveral Chambers, three or four families ©f husbands and wives, and fucking children begotten there h contrary to the Canons of any other Church, except thofe of Geneva. From the top of this ( hurchyou have a fair profpect upon the lake and neigh- bouring Countryes; which makes them brag here, that they can fee from thtir fteeple, into fix feveral principalities, to wit, their own, France, Savoje, S^ifferland , tbe C V fakji- .


T he Voyage

Valefians^ and the Tranchecounty. But I told them, it would be a greater brag, to fay, that they^onld fee into no other Country or Dominions but their own. 2. Ifawthe Arfenal, lit- tle, but well ftored with defenfive armes. They never forget to (hew the Ladders of the Savoyards^ who attempted to furprize this Town by fcaling , but were themfelves taken and beheaded a la chande, leaft fome Prime ftiould have interceded for them. 3. The Town hottfe with the Chamber where the Magistrates ( fomething like the Hogen Mogem of Holland) fit in Counfel. 4. They (hewd me here a Library but none of thebeft. 5: The admirable Trent* here, able to make them wifti for their Lent again h Were it not, that the Capons here are full as good in their kinde.

As for the Governent of this Town, it was anciently Monarchi- cal , and the Bilhop w?s Prince of it under the J)»ke of Savoy : but Fare! and Calvin coming hither with their Anarchical Presbytery , drove the Bifhop Peter de la Beaume

out


of Italy.

out of the Town; and eftabliih- cd there a kinde et^Dtfitocratj, or rather a kind of Arifkocraty, ming- led of Laymen and Minifters. Yet the Bifliop keeps ftiJI his Title, and the Chapter its Revenues and Lands, which happily lyes in Savoy out of the reach of the fliort jurifdi&ion of Geneva. Both the Bifhop And Chap- ter refide at Anify in Savoy , and officiate in the Cordeliers Church. Of this Seat was Bifhop the late Cano- nized Saint, S. Francis de Sales, , a man of fingular fweetneft and pie- Pet ™* a . ty , mingled with zeal and difcretion. s ^ omti " I have read of him, that in his life aldotn time, he made four thoufand Termors Deart0 ' to the people.

Having thus feen the little All of Geneva, I made towards Smfferlattd, leaving the Lake on my right hand ; — ; , , or rather taking it on my right hand; . ~ ^ for it would needs accompany me to J Lattfanna^ where it took leave of me, or I of it.

This Lake is absolutely thefaireft

I hive feen : its fairer then ei her

the La\e Major, theZ^ ofCcwo,

the Lake oi Zttric , the Lake of

Wdhnfl.xt


1


i^o The Voy age

Walenftat , the Lake of Ifee , the Lake of Marat) or the Lake ef Garda. In fome places this Lake of Geneva is eight miles broad, and well nigh fifty miles long. I have read of a ftranger , who travelling that way alone in Winter, when the Lake was all frozen over and covered with Snow, took the Lake far a large plain, and rid upon it eight, or ten miles to the fown Where lighting 5t his Inn, and commending the fine plain over which he had ridden, was given to underftand, that he h?d sridden, if not in the Air, at leaft fiften Fathom above ground •, at which , the poor man refk&ing upon the danger he had been in , fell down dead with the conceit of it. Thus we are troubled notonely st evils to come but at evils paft ^ and are never fo near the danger of death sswhen we are newly paft it. No animal but man, hath this folly. £4#fe?r Leaving then, as I fiid, the Lake, W. I came foon after , to Laufanna in Smfftrland, belonging to the Can. ton of Berm: Here I favv an anci- ent Church of a noble flrafee ; and

once


OF I T A LY. 51

once a Biftiops Cathedral , but now poflefied l by Minifter* of Calvinj communion •, and the man that (hewed us the Church ( though no Catbclick) affured us, that the re- cord* of that Church bore, that Afajfe had been faid in it thirteen hundred years ago.

From Laufanna I went towards Smfftr* Soleur , skirting through the Can- i an ^ ions , fometimes of Berne, fome- times of JFribourg ,and fometimes in one dayes journey, I paflfed into a Catholick Canton , and by and by, into a Proteftant Canton again: for here Catholic!^ and Proteftant Villages are mingled together, and make the Country look like the back fide of a pair of tables , chec- kered with white and black. In one Village you have a Crofs fee up, to fignify that it is Catholiquc belonging to the Canton of Fribttrge^ by and by in another Village , a n high flag with the piflure of a ™rnefi- Bear in it, to fignifie , that it be- & m P s *** longs to the Canton of Berne, and ™" ch/l * is Proteftant : and yet they live civilly ear ° and neighbourly together without

cmarre*


in


52 Th e Voyage

quarreling about Religion. Soleur Faffing thus a long, I came to So-

leur (Soktnrnum in Latin ) a neat Town and Head of a Canton. They are all Catholiks here : and here it is that the French Embaffadours to the Sniffers, alwayes refide, as the Spa- niflj Embaffadours do at Lucerna. This Town is very ancient , as the Golden Letters upon the Clock tefti- Petrm fie •, for thofe words make Soleur to Romual- be onely yonger then her Sifter Tre~ f w,which 3 a6 apneas Sjlvita writes, was built 1300 years before Rome. TreforJo. As for Soleur^ I fr d in good Cronolo- i.p^.83. gers that it was built 2030 years after in fol. the Creation of the world.

From Soleur I went to Mumt, a little town famous for a great battle fought hrd by it, by the Duke of Burgundy ,° nd the Sn>i(fers.. Fpr the Duke of Burgundy befit- ging Murat, Mm at. tne Smffers fca me upon him with a great Army,and defe-'.ted him. I was to!d here, that the Duke feeing his ar- my defeated, and himfelf environed on one fide by the Lake here ; and on the other fide, by the Enemies con- quering army, chofe rather to truft

him ft If


OF I T A LY. 53

himfelf to the Lake, then to his E- nemyes. Whereupon fpurring his TbeLake Horfe into the Lake, one of his ofyi Hr ^i Pages, tofave himfelf alfo, leaped up behind him, as he took water. The Duke , out of fear either per- ceived him not atfirft, or diflemb- ledit till he came to the other fide of the Lake which is two miles broad: The ftout horfe tugged thrugh with them both , and faved them both from drowning, but not both from death. For the Duke fe» ing in what danger his Page had put him, ftabbed the Page with his Dagger. Poor Prince / thou mighft have given an other offering of Thankf-giving to God for thy efcape then this ^ nay, thou mighft have been as civil as thy horfe , and have fpared him , whom- beafts and waves had faved .* At leaf! by that means , thou mighft: have faved thy own honour, by faving that poor Page, who offended, rather out of fear of death , then out of malice: and thereby thou mighft have truly faid, that thou hadft not loft all thy men in that battle. But

paffion


1/


54 Thk Voyage

paffion is a blind thing : Nothing is fo dangerous to man, as man •, and as 1 obferved above, we are never in greater danger , then when we think we are pait dinger. The bones of the Btfrgundians flain in this battle, arefeenin a great Chappel , which ftands a little 4iftant from the Town, and upon ^he road, with an infcription upon it touching the time and circumftances of this defeat.

From Mttratl m? de towards Zu* ric , a head Hownalfo of a Canton. It ftands moft fweetly upon a Lake whofe cryftalline waters would de- light any body elfe but Sniffers. They are all here, Smngtians-, and when Marejbal D 3 Eftree the French EncfaffAdour to Rome, p flea that way, and lodged at the great \nn of the. Sword t a9 he was comb- ing his head one morning in his combing cloth, with his chamber window open, forne of the Towns- men , who fiw him ( from another oppofite window ) putting on thac combing cloth, and thinking it had been a prieft putting on the

Amice


o f It a l y. 55

Amice, and veiling himfelf for to fay Mafs before the Embaffadour in his Chamber , began with a Dutch cla- mour to ftirre up the people to a mu- »ny about the Embaffadours houfe , a nd to calJ for the Prieft, that was faying of MafTe : The Embaffadour at firir, not understanding the caufe of this uproar about bis houfe, pn down with fword in hand, and in his combing cloth, to check the firft man that fhould dare to enter his lodgings: but undemanding at laft, that his combing cloth had caufed this j'ealoufy, he laughed at their folly , and retired away con- tented.

The fcfcft things to be feen in Zu- ric are thefe. i. The mzt Arfenal furniflied with More of fair Cannons and armes of all forts. 2. The great Library jyax in this much lefs efteem- ed by me, becaufe a woman had the Key of it , and let us in to fee it. This piece of hMt Latin ar the en- trance, difgufted me with all that I faw there, and made me haften out quickly: Good libraries (houli not fail en ejueneuillei

j,. The


A long Bridge.


$6 TH E Vo Y AG E

3. The Wheels which draw up.wa- ter from the Lake qi themfelves, and empty it into feveral Pipes , and fo conveighitall over the Town.

4. The publick great Drinking ' hall, where there are a world of lit- tle rabies for men of feveral Corpo- rations or Trades to meet at, and ei- ther talk thereof their bufinefs, or make drinking their bufinefs , O ver every Table hangs the fign of each Trade •, as, a Lafi for Shoo- makers,a Saddle forSadlers, a Sword for Cutlers, &c There is a great Bell that rings to this Meeting- place every day at two a Clock , and when I heard fo folemn a ringing, I thought it had been to fome Church-devotion , not to a drinking aflembly.

From Zuric. I went by water, that is upon the Lake, a whole dayes jour- ney, and pafled under a bridge of wood which croffed quite over the Lake for two miles. Its entertained at the coft of the King of Spain , to pafs the Souldiers which he of- ten raifeth in the adjacent Coun- tryes.

From


of It a l y. 57

Frofep hence I went to Coin , or Coire. Cear , the head Town of the Gri- fons. The Bifhop and the Clergy of the great Church, with fome few others living within the precin&s of the Cloifter of the great Church , are Catholicks, and perform their Devotions in the Church without controll : the reft of the Inhabitants are Smnglians, and poflefs the Town, yet they fuffer the Bifhop and his Clergy to live quietly in the midft of them. They (hewed me here in this Church, divers fine Re- Kques, efpecially the Head (encha- S.Lucitu fed in Silver) of our ancient Brit- thepr^l tijb King Lucitu, the nrft Chriftian Chriftian King that ever made profeffion of King. Chriftian Religion , and the firft who helpt to plant it here The an- cient Church Office here relates all this , as their Church Books (hewed me.

From the Grifom I went to the , Country of the Valtaline • a Coun- The . VaU try fubje&tothe Grifons and keep- talme ' ing its fidelity to them even when it would not have wanted afllftance' from Spain and Italy, if it would

have


Mount Berlin.


LeSplug


Mount Auriga.


Cj8 TH E Vo Y AG E

have beenfalfc to its Superiours the Grifons under the colour of Religi- on : thofe of the Valtaline being all Catholicks , and their Soveraigns the Grifons Calvinifts. In a little town of the Grifons ( called Her- berga ) I was (hewed a Cheefe (and given to tafte of it too) by mine hofte , the Mayor of the Town, a Cahiniff in Religion , and a Vene- rable old man, whoaffured me fe- rioufly, that that Cheefe was an hun- dred years old : a Venerable Cheefe iadeed.

Between thefe two Countryes of the Grifons and the Valtaline > ftands the great UillBerlino: over which I paffed ; and fell from thence upon Pofciavo a little bourg, and fo to our Ladyes of Tirana a neat Church with a fair Inn hard by it.

Others, to avoid the Snow ofBer- lino, are forced now and then ( as I was once) to pafs over the mountain Splug, which is hill enough for any Traveller.

From our Ladyes of Tirana I went up a fmart hill called Mount

Aurigo,


O F


Italy. 59


.Aurigo, and fo making towards the The lakes Lake of trallinftade , I patted it over ofwal- in boat; as I did alfo foon after , that /infiade, o{jfee-, and fo fell into the territo- <£• Jfee. ries of Brefcia in Italy belonging to the ftate oi Venice.

My fourth Voyage.

MY fourth Voyage into Italy s was from Lyons again and ; M * Hm Geneva , where I now took the Lake rice ' on my left hand, and paffing along the skirts of Savoy, \ came toBoveret- ta, a little Village • and fo to Saint Maurice the firft Town in the Va- letianj Countrey : This Town is fo called from St. Maurice the Brave Commander of the Theban Legion , in the primitive times, and who was martyred here for the profeffi- on of Chriftian Religion, together with his whole Legion. Hence an Abbey was built here by Sigifmond King of Burgondj , and called S. Maurice.

Now , this Country is called the ffl e fa- Country of the Vale fans , from the fefans. ler.etjal Valley in which it lyeth. ~ " The


-


6o The Voy a g e

The people have for their Prince the Bifliop of Sion the chief Town of the Country. 7"heir Valley is a- bove four dayes journey long , be- fides their hills which are two more : Moft of their little Towns and Vil- lages ftand upon hill fides , leaving all the plain Country for tillage and pafturage. Their houfes are low and dark, many of them having no windows, and the reft very little ones. Sed cafa pugnaces Curios an- gttftategebat. As for the people here, they are all Catholicks , fincere ho- neflr men, of flout courage, yet of in- nocent lives , much fnow quenching their luft , and high mountains Ha- ving Off from them all luxe and Vanity, the harbingers of Vice. they have fhort hair on their heads, but beards in folio : they are got fo for into the grande mode, as to wear breeches and doublets; but that's all : for otherwife their clothes look as if they had been m de by the Tayhrs of the old Patriarckj ; or as if the fafliion of them hid been taken out of old hangings and ta-

piftry.


of Italy. 6\

piftry. In fine, both men and wo- men here are great and maffive, and not eafily to be blown away ; fo that I may juftly fay of this people , as Cardinal Bentivoglio faid of the Swifers, that they are good for the AtyeSyVcA the Alpes for them. One thing I obferved particularly in this windy Country, which is, that they have many natural fools here, which makes me think it no vulgar errour , which is commonly faid, thuthe cli- mats that are moft agitated with winds produce more fools, then other Climats do.

As for their ftrength , upon a de- «j-^ . fenfive occafion , they can aflemble o tre?1?t fj forty thoufand men together under «* their known Commanders, who are often times the Inn kepers in whofe houfes we lodge j but out of their own pit they are not to be feared, having neither fpirits, nor finews: that is, neither ambition, nor money to carry on a forraign

  • warre.

From S. Maurice I went to Mar- tigni a gre n In in ? poor Vil'age, and from .hence to mn.

Sion


WiArtignu


Sion,


The beft i Gards of a Prince.


Plus tuta Eur amor.


Lucia.


Briva,


62 The Vpyage

S ion (&nt\ent\y bedmum) is the chief town of the Country, and ftands in the Center of it. Here the Bifliop, who is Prince, refideth with his Chapter and Cathedral on one hill, and his Caftle ftands on another hill hard by The Court of this Prince is not great, becaufe of his, and his peoples quality. A good Bifliop hath fomething elfe to do, then to be courted, and good plain people muft follow their trades, not Courts. This Prince hath ho Gards, becaufe no fears : and if danger fhould threat- en him, his people, whofe love is his onely Arfenal , have hands enough to defend him. So that the . Prince and People, that is, the Body Politick of this ftate, feemed to me like the .Body natural in man, where the foul and the body being friends together, the Soul directs the body , and the Eody defends the Soul.

From Sion I went to Lucia , but lodged a quarter of a mile from the town; and. from thence I reached Briga at night.

JBriga is a little Village Handing

at


of It alt, 63

| at the foot of gceit hills j wh ere ha- ving refted well all night, at the Co- \ lonels houfe (the beft Inn here) we ! begin the next morning to clime the 1 hills for a breakfaft. For the fpace of three honrs our horfes eafed us , the afcent not being fofurleyas we expe&ed from fo rugged a brow of j hills : but when we came to the I fteepofthe Hill it felf Mount Sam-

fion y (one of the great Staircafes of Moititt* | Italy ) we were forced to compli- ^mfwn* I ment our horfes, and go a foot. It ! was towards the very beginning of ! October when we paffed that way % and therefore found that Hill in a good humour - otherwife its fro- ward enough. Having in one hours time crawled up the fteep of the Hill,

we had two hours more riding to the '

j Village and Inn of Sampion : where arriving , we found little meat for ' our great ftomachs, and cold com- i fort for all the hot ftincking i Stove.

At laft, having paid for a dinner

, here , though we faw nothing we

| could eate, we were the lighter in

purfe,.as well as in body, to walk

D weH


64 The Voyage

well that afternoon, rather then that after'dinner. To defcribe you the rough way we had between Samfion and Bevedra , down hill alw^yes , or fetching about hills upon a ntrrow way artificially made out of the fide or thofe hills, and fome- times flicking out of them , as if it had been plaftered to them , were able to make my pen ske in wri- ting it, as wellas my leggs in wal- king it • And here I found the Pro- verb falfe, which faith „ That its good walking with a hcrfe in ones hand: for here we could neither ride, nor lead our horfes fecure- ly, but either the one, or the other were in danger of '{tumbling, that is, of falling five hundred fa- ome deep. For here, a§ well as in war , femel tantum -peccatur , a man need but ftumble once for all his life-time : Vet by letting our horfes go loofe with the bridle on their necks , and making a man go before each horfe , leaft they fhouid jumble one another down ( as I once faw thelike done by horfes in (Swijferland ) we arrived fafely at

Deve-


of Italy,


65


DeveJra that night. You would do Devedra] well alfo to light from horfe at the going over all the little trembling Bridges of wood which you will finde there , remembring the Italian Proverb, which faith : Quandotn Ve- diun Tcntejallipu honors che tu non fai a un Come.

Having repofed all night in the %) omo . houfe of the Signor Caftettano, we Mceta. went the next morning to Domodo- % fcda a little garrifon town of the State of Milan, troublefome enough to travelers that pafs from Milan this way, and carry piftols and guns with- out licence.

From VomodofceU we pafTed through a fine plain Country to Mar- Marguzzi, a little Village ftand- £****• • ing upon the Lake Major (ancient-! Iy called Lacut Verbanw ) where Lakelfa* making our bargain with our boat- j°r* men to carry us in one day from thence to Sefio, and keep aloof off from the command of all theCaftles, which now and then warn boates to come in ; and under pretence of fearching them for marchandize , flop paffengers till they have Dij fere wed


Sefto.

Civlta Caflel-


Mount Aivue - billet.


$6 The Voyage

fcrewed a piece of Mony out of them.

Arriving fafe ac S^tbat night, we took CQach the next day for

Milan, and Dining at Chita Caflel- iAttza, arrived betimes at that great Town which was called anciently

Altera-Roma : a fecond Rome,

My fifth Voyage.

MY Fifth Voyage into Italy was full from Lyons t but now by the way of Mount Cenis^ and Tu- rin, the ordinary Poft rode, and I think the eafieft way of all the reft.

Parting then from Lyons on Iiorfe- back, we pafied through Verpillitr , La Tom du rin> Beauvoyfm^ ( whofe Bridge parts France % and Savoy) and came in two dayes to the foot of Mount Aigmbellct , the thre- shold of the Aides'. This is a pretty breathing hill, and may be called, the Alpes foul ovir, or the Alpes in a running hand^ and not in that fair Text- hand which I found Mount Cmis to be in. It hath all the line- aments and (hapes of the great

Aljes %


of Italy. 6j

AlpeSy that is., much winding and turning ; deep precipices, Marons, or Men with little open Chairs, to carry you up and down the Hill for a Crown; and much Mumbling work. In fine, this hill refembles Mount Ce- nts, as a proper man may do a Giant.

Having pa/Ted this Hill , and by it through the very clouds, we fell as it were out of the Skies, upon Chamber) the chief Town ofS*- Cham- ] voy , and where the Parliament re- bery. (ides.

We call: to be there at the fo» lemn Entry* which this Du\e made for his newSpoufe, the third Daugh- ter of the late Duke of Orleans, when fhe came firft into this Coun- try. T© defcrlbe all the Triumphal .. Arches in the Streets, with their 'he Ett- Emb/emsan<\ Motto's rarely painted j t1 ^ c l. the Irately Throne a little out of the Putchefn Town,where the Duke and Dut chefs °f SAVO h received the compliments of their, > Subjects- the rich Liveries of rhe' young Townfmen on horfeback -, the gallantry of the Noblemen and Gentlemen of the Country (800 in all) D iij with


Mont- mdian.


Jfere,


c8 The Voy a ge

- their horfes as fine as they : the Tarlament men, and other officers of fttftice all in black velvet gowns; the Clergy and Religion* marching in the mean time humbly a foot and in Proceffion ; the Dukes two Com- panies of horfe in velvet coats of crimfon colour, embrodered wich gold andfilver^ The Pages and foot- men of the Dttke and Dutchefs in Crimfon velvet laid thick with gold and filver lace •, in fine, the "Duke and D ftt chefs on horfeback as bril- lant as the Sun , would fill a booic alone, which I have no minde to do, feeing there is one extant already in a juft volumne.

Leaving then Chamber) the next day after the Shew , we went to Montmdian to dinner. This is a ftrong Caflle upon a high rock, over- looking the river Ifere , and com- manding the paffage here which is {freight between the hills. The ftrength of this Caftle appeared when it withftood the Royal army of Lewis tne XIII. of France for fif- teen months, and made him raife the Siege when he had done.

Here


of Ital y, 69

Here is fUll a ftrong Girrifon in ir, and ftore of ammunition , and all things neceflfary for the defence of a flrong place. They (hewed us in ic their deep Well for fre(h water iu the midft of a high rock ; their excellent pieces of Artillery, one of which is laid to carry four miles, that is, to Fort Bnrreatt a little Fort belong- ing to France, which is two leagues from hence, and which you fee from thisCaftle.

From Montmelian we had rough Aigm^ way to Aiguebelle \ thence to S. John ^lle Morian t to S. Michel, and at lait to S. John Lafnebonrg , which (lands at the Morion* foot of Mount Cents t /the highefl of Lafnc* all the'hills I pa(Ted ; over in my feve* bourg. ral voyages into Italy, or out of it; to wit, Sampion, Berlin, Spltig, and S.Godarde.

This Hill of Mount Cenis part- ing S^ay and Italy , (hall be the place where I will now begin my Ve~ fcription of Italy , having hitherto onely defcribed the feveral wayes in* to it.


D jv


The


Mount


70 The Voyage

Tins description and Voyage of Italy.

ARriving then , as I (aid before I at the foot of Mount Cw, an- ciently called Cinijitim ; and refting all night at Lafnebottrg we agreed with the Maronsy to carry us up the bill, and down the hill, as alio over the Plain , and in fine, all the way to N ovale fe it feft. All this i s to be expreffed in your bargain with them, otherwife they will cavil with you, and make you go over the Plain a foot. The price is, a Spamjh Pifiol for every man thats carryed. Thofe tb.it are ftrong and vigorous, ride up upon Mules, and walk down a foot.

We began to mount at our go- ing out of our Inn at Lafnebourg , and having paffed by La Ramaffa (where men are pofted down the Hill upon the Snow in Sledges with great celerity and pleafure}after two hours tugging of our Chairmen, or Marons, we came to the top of the hill, and a little after to the Pcfthovfe,

mi


of Italy. 71

and the little Hofpital upon the plain: Thence palling by the Chappet, of the Tranfts ( that is, of thofe who are found dead of cold in the Snow, and are buried here) we came to the great Crofs and Tavern, where we began to defcend. This Hill of Mount Cenis is four miles in the go- ing up, four miles upon the Plain , and two in its defcent to Nevalefe.

Arriving about noon at Novalefe, ^y , ; - we dined, horfed, and went that night to Su/a.

Smfa , anciently Segefwm , is a ftrong Town, and one of the gates of Italy. For this reafon,the French in their late long Warr with Spain , ••* kept it a long time in their hands; as well as Pignerola , which they Hill keep upon treaty, to let them into Italy when they have a mind. Its ftrength confifts wholly in a Ca- ttle built upon a high rock clofe to the Town, and commanding all the paffage betwixt the twc Moun- tains:. This Town is famous in the -'P* & latter KiftorV, for the fmart afti- ***** on of the trench , when they beat down the twelve feveral

Barrier h


(efe.


Sfizal


72 The Voyage

Barriers, whereby the Btiks of $*- t/oy thought to have choaked their tu&mont paflage* Tms aftion is famous in hiftory , by the name oi k Pat de Suze. Here at Sufa begins Pied- mont.

From Sufa we went to S. Ambro- fto, and pafled by Rivolle a fine houfe Riiolle. of the Dukes, (landing in a good air, and at night we came to Turin. i 7V«*, antiently called Augufta Taurinorum, is fituated in a plain, near the foot of th: hills and upon the banks of the river Po y which begins here to be navigable, and from hence carries boats to Ferra- ra } Chiofa and Venice. 1 his Po is a noble River, and very large in fome places, efpecially a little be- low Femra j yet I have read that in a great drouth which happened in the year of the world 2470. it was dryed up and rendered innavi- gable. ~. - ■ This Turin is the Seat of one of jfoeB**. tbe greaieft p riwes i n Ita ij } the

cf Savoys Du k e0 f Savoy, and Prince of Pied- ntlesmd who is a]fo treated with the

gremefi. ^ of Mezza ^eak , and Vica-

rio


S. Am-

hrofio.


Turin.

The Ri ver Po^


Tetrma S. Romu-

f.ldo,Cro. to. 1.


of Italy.


7?


rio Generate del Imperii in Italia* This houfe of Savoy which now governs here , came antiently from Sigmrdo King of Saxony in the year of Chrift 6\6 and hath con- served it felfever fince, that is , for a 'thoufand and odd years in a continual feries of Heroical Prin- ces, whofe Pedegree was never vi- tiated nor interrupted by any dege- nerate Oflf-fpring. 'Five Emperors, and four Kings have iflued out of this houfe.

Antiently the Dukes of Savoy kept their Court at Ch amber y or elfe at Boptrgen Brvjfe, a Country now be- longing to France , upon exchange with the Marqutfat of Saluzzo ; as many of their Tombes curioufly cut in Marble, in the Juguflins Church there yet fhew. It was J- tnadeo, the V. of that name, Duhe of Savoy, that ; transferred the Court to Turin. It was aifo this Amadco- who in memory of his Grandfather Amadeofoz IV, who had defended Rhodes fo bravely, inflitured the Knighthood of the jnnunciata , with this fingle motto in the collar ' ~ ^ V of


His fub- getts. His Com* tryes ex* tent.

His for- ces. Revenues


His Jnte- reft.

TheTown of Turin.


The

things to be fern in Turin. The Holy Syndon.


74 The Voyage

of the Order F E. R. T. fignifying, that Fortitudo Ejus Rhodum Tenuit.

The fubjetts of this Prince are faid to be about eighteen hundred thoufand fouls. His whole Country with Piedmont and all, is judged to be two hundred miles long , and fifty broad. His Forces thirty three thoufand Foot , *and five thouf; nd Horfe : and his Revenues to be a- bout a million of Crowns, befides what he can now and then raife out of that fat Country of Piedmont. His Interefl is, to keep well with France , and not fall out with Spain.

As for the Town it felf of Turin, its almoft fquare, and hath four gates in it , a ftrong Cittadel with five ba- ftions to it ^ its well furniftied with good provisions in the market; it ftands in a fat foil, which makes it a little too durty in winter, and it is anllniverfiry.

The chief things which I faw here, were thefe.

i . The Domo , or Great Church , in which is kept with great Devo- tion the Hclj Spdon, in which

our


O F If AL Y. 75

our Saviours body was wound up and buried: of the Verity of this Relief fee Baronius in his Ecclefia? fiical Hiftory ad, an. 34 num. 138. Its kept in a Chappel over the High Mtar , and fliown publickly upon certain dayes, and privately to Em- bassadors and Prelats. as they pa fs that way. The late Dnchefs Madam Cbriflina^ began to make a fine Chap- pet for to keep it in, but it was noc quite finished when I pafTed that way laft. The Chappel is all of black Marble, adorned with (lately black Marble Pillars: indeed -winding fheets ( fuchas this Relief is) are things of mourning , and are beft fet out in a mourning way.

2. The Cittadelle ftanding at the back of the Town, and keeping it in T** cir awe. This Dnlte and his Mother **&&. found the convenience of this Citta- delle, when by Factions within the Townagainft them, they were for- ced to this Cittadelle, and there wea- ther it out fioutly, (till fuccour com- ing to them from France made them Matters again of the Town, and their enemies.

The


j6 The Voyage

3. The Dukes new Pa/lace handfomly The Pal, built with a fair Court before it , a lace. great Piavza , and a large open ftreet leading up it. The Chambers are fair, and hung with hangings of Cloth of Tyjftte , of anew and rich fabrick , with rich embroidered beds , chairs , {tools, cloth of State , and Canopies. The Dutchejfes Ca- binet, the curious bathing place above, hung round with the true pictures in Little^ of the prime Ladies of En- Theba- rope. The curious invention for the thing Dutchefs to convey herfelf up from place. her bedchamber to that bathing room, by a pullyand afwing, with great eafe and fafety : the great H all painted cnrioufly : the Noble fkair-cafe : the old long Gallery The old 100 pices long , with the Fitturcs Gallery, in it of the Princes and Princess of the houfe of Savoy , with the Statues of the ancient Emperours and Philofophers in marble, with a a rare Library locked up in great cubbords , are the chief rooms and ornaments of this Pallace. I faw alfo the Appartiments or lodgings of the old Dxtchcjfe JMadame

Chri-


"he ne» '■ Jlreet.


of Italy. 77

Chrifliana , which Joyn to the old Gallery , and in her Cabinet I faw ma- / ny choice Pidures.- /

4. The new ftreet, which runeth fa from the Pallace to the Piazza Reale, is a fair ftreet, and built uni- formly. The fhops below sfford great conveniency to the Townes- / rren^and the fair lodgings above to, ( the Noblemen and Courtiers.

5. The Piazza Reale is built The Pi- handfomly upon Pillars-, like our Co- azzaRr vent Garden, and is full of nothing ale.

elfe but Noblemens houfes.

6. The Augujiins Church, called The An- S. Carlo , ftanding in this Piazza , gutting ' adornes it much, being a neat Church church. ' and the bcfl: contrived that I faw in

this Town.

7. The Capucins Church upon a The Ca» hill out of the Town, is above the puchins rate of Capucins: but you mufi: Churchy know who gave it, not who have it.

From hence I had a perfect view ot Turin, with the Country about it.

8. Some three miles out of the L<«^»f- Town I faw a neat houfe of the ™ Ro J~ Dukes, called La Venery Roy ah. «?**

The


78 The Voyage

The Court fee round with Staggs heads ; the Chambers full of good Piftures •, the Hall painted with great Pi&ures of the Duke, his Mother , his Sifters, and other Ladies all on horfeback , as if they were going a hunting ^ the place where they keep Pheafants , Partridges , and other fuch like Birds, the Stable for 100 Horfe, and the neat Dogkennel, are the bed things to be feen in this houfe. LaVtkn- 9. On the othf r fide of the Town, tine. about a mile off, I faw the old Dut- chefTes Houfe called La Valentine. It ftands pleafan'ly upon the Banks of i^and is adorned with great va- riety of Pictures, In five or fix Roomes, on the right hand of the houfe, they (hewed me a world of Pi&ures of all forts of Flowers : on the left hand , as many of all forts of Birds, with other Pi&ures curi«  oufly painted. The four Pictures re- prefenting the four Elements , with all that belongs to them, as all the Birds that flie in the air \ all the beafli that are found upon the earth ; ail the fijbes and fitlh that arc found

in


of Italy. 79

in the water ; and all things that be- long to fire, arefo curioufly painted in their feveral particular fliapes and colours , that thefe four pieces are an abridgment of all Nature, and the admiration of all that behold them. There are lome other good pieces here too ; as the Magdalen fallen in- to an extafie : the rap of the Sabins j and divers others.

The others Houfes about the Town, as Milhfieur belonging to the Duke; the Villa oi the Prince fs Marie •, with divers others which fhew therafelves upon the Hill fide, are very ft a rely, and worth feeing.

Having thus feen Turin , we left Frora the ordinary road , which leads to Turin r# Milan (to wit, by the way of Ver- Qenuai telle and Novara> two ft rong Towns frontier to one another , through which I paffed in another Voyage ) and , to avoid two Armies which lay in the way , chofe to fteer towards Genua by the low way of Savona. And pafling through a me- lancholy Country by Altare and other little Towns for the fpace of three days,we came at laft to Savtna,

Savona


Savona.


80 TH E Vo Y AG E

Savona ( anciently called Saba- tia, or Sabatium ) is the fecond Town, or elded daughter of Genua ; and like a good daughter indeed fhe ftands alwayes in her mothers pre- fence, yet keeps her diftance : it be- ing within fight of Genua, yet five and twenty miles off. It (lands upon the Mediterranean Sea, or, as they call it here, upon the Riuiera diGe- nea. Its fortified both by Art and Nature^ that is, by regular Fortifica- tions towards the Sea, and by lufty jipennin hills towards the Land. Yet whiles Savona feared no danger from either Sea or Land, it was al- moft ruined in the year 1648 by Fire from heaven, to wit, lightnings which falling upon a great Tower in the midft of the Town , where Gunpowder was kept, blew itup up- on a fudden , and with it threw down two hundred houfes round about in, and houfes of note. For, paffing that way fix months after, and walking among the mines , I faw in many of the houfes , which were but half fallen down , curious

painted Chambers, and fine guilt

roofes.


of Italy. 8i

roofes, which fhew'd me of what houfe many of thefe houfes had been; and of what weak defence guilt roofes and painred walls are agaihft the artillery of heaven thun- der and lightning.

This Town is famous in Hiftory for the interview of two great Kings here , to wit , Lewis the XII of Frame, and FerdinandKmg of Na- ples. This interview patted with de- monftrations of mutual civilities, not ordinary in interviews of Princes. For Le wis feared not to go into the Gallies and Ships of Ferdinand Without guards and unarmed : and Ferdinand remained for many dayes together in this Town belonging then to LeVris, whom he had lately ftript of the Kingdom of Naples % and beaten him to boot in a bat- tel.

Of this Town were Julius SecHJf duS) and Sixtus jQuartus, two Popes of the Houfe of Rouen : and two great Cardinals, Peter, and Raphael Riariu

Embarking at Savona in a Feluca, we rowed along the Shoar (called


%2 The Voyage

la Riviere cki Genoa ) unto Genua it felf\ and all the way long we faw fuch a continual Suburbs of ftately %a Ri- Villas and Villages, that thefe fcant- vitra di lings made us in love with the whole Gema. P^ce it felf, Genua. I confefs, I ne- ver faw amoreftatelyabord to any City then to this : and if we had not had Genua full in our fight all the way long, we (hpuld have taken fome of thefe ftately Villages for Genua ic felf^ and have imitated Hoftingus the Leader of the Normans , who coming into Italy about the year 860 with a great Army, and finding Luna ( a Town in the confines of Genua) fo fumptuoufly built, thought really it had been Rome, and thereupon ta- 'Tfreldo a king it, he gloried that he had ijrck- S.^Hin- edthe Miftrifs of (he World; Gra- tinojlib.l* tatur tenere fe Monarchiam Utius Ae morib* Imperii, per urbemquam putabat Ro- &AB. mam, faith his Hiftorian. Norman. Sailing thus along this pleafant

Coaft, we came betimes to Genua. Genua. Genua is one of the chief Towns that ftand upon the Mediterranean Set, an$l one of the belt in Italy. J he

common


O F I T A L Y. 8 g

common Italian Proverb, calls it, Genna, la Super fa : and if ever I faw a Town with ics Holy-day clothes al- wayes on, it was Gema.lt ftands upon the fide of a hill, and rifing by de- grees, appears to thofe that look upon it from the Sea, like an Am- phitheater. Heretofore it was only The walls fortified by Marble Bullworks, that is, great Hills of Marble which backt it up : but, fome forty years ago it was environed with new "walls, carrying fix miles in compafs, and yet finifhed in eighteen moneths. ,

The Haven heretofore was very je ^ A " unfafe , and many Ships which haa vtn * tugg'd through the moft dangerous Seas abroad, were feen to fink here in the Haven at home •, the French , then Matters of Genua, not fufTering her to (hut up her haven, leaftfhe fhould (hut them out. But fince (he hath fhaken . off the French yoak, (he hath locked up her Trea- sures , and bolted the door on the infide, by that admirable Mola, which eroding almoft quite over the Bay, or Haven, doth not onely bolt out all Enemies , but even

lock


YOS.


84 Th e Voyage

locks up the boifterous Sea it felf, and makes it tame in the Haven. Its a prodigious work, and able to have puzzel d any two Kings in Europe to have done it. ThePha- At one end of this Mola ftands the Pharos upon a little rock, with a Lantern upon it, to give nonce, by known fignes, what Ships, how ma- ny, and from what fide they Come : or elfe to guide their own Ships home fafely in the night. At firft it was onely a little Fort for to help to bri- dle Genua, and it Was built by Lewis the XII of France.

As for the Town it felf of Genua, its moft beautiful to behold : many of the houfes being painted on the outfide, and looking as if they were turned infide" 6iif, ifld had their Arras hangings hung on their out- fides. The tops of their houfes are made with open Galleries, where the women fit together at work in clufters, and where alfo they dry their hair in the Sun after they have waflied it in a certain wafh a purpofe for to make it Tellow , a

colour


The City it felf.


e reus.


of It a ly. 85

colour much iffe&ed here by all wo- men.

The Streets are very narrow : fo ^ that they ufe here few Coaches, but a many Sedan: and Litters. This makes the ncife in the ftreets lefs, '. and the exper.ce in the purfe fmalier. But, for want of ground and earth j they make heaven pay for it ^ ta- king it out in the height of their houfes , what they want in breadth or length. So that Genua looked in my eye like a proud young La- dy in a ftraight-body'd flower'd Gown , which makes her look tall indeed and fine, but hinders her from being at her eafe, and ta- king brer.th freely.

Yet I muft except the Strada , Nona here, which for a fpirt, fur- ^™* pafleth all the ftreets I ever faw any where elfe for neatnefs and propor- tion •, and,if it had but breath enough to hold out at the fame rate, a little longer, it would be the true £lueen~flreet of Europe : Ordinary houfes are fo out of countenance here,that they dare not appear in this ftreec where there's nothing but Pal- laces


Nova^


The Do

mo.


85 Th e Voyage

laces, and Pallaces as fine as arc and coft^ or as Marble and Fainting can make them.

Having faid thus much of Genu* in general, I will now come to the particulars that are to be feen in it.

i. The Domo, or great Church of St Laurence prefents it felf to my fight : Its the Cathedral of the Jrch- bijhop, who, when I patted that way la ft, was Cardinal Durazzo, a man of great Vertue and Piety. This Church is of a noble Structure, all of black and white Marble inter- mingled , and all mafiive fquare ftones. In a Chappel over againfl: the Pulpit, is kept reverently an auihentick Reiki of St. John Bap- tifl , under the Altar ; and the great Dijh of one Emmmd > in which they fay here that our Savi- our eat the Pa fchal Lambe wiih his Difciples. Both thefe were given to the Genuefi by Baltvdin King of Barm ad Hierufalem, for their great fervice jf*J 101. done againft the Turks m the Holy ft. IS. Land. Of the Relief of St. foh» Baptifi , Baronm fpeaks credibly

in


of Italy, 87

in his Eccleftafiical Hifiory. But for the Dipj of Emeraud , 1 find no au- thority for it , either 'mharomm or any ancient Author, that our Savi- our ufed it. Efpecially teeing Vtne- Bedd.l. de rable Beda writes, that the Dijh in l oc , f af ,fc which our Saviour eat the Pafchal c ,2. Lambv^jzs of Silver,

2. After the Domo, I faw the Tht At* Church of the AnnuncUta , which nunciatai draweth up the Ladder after it for neatnefs. Its ftill in building, and not quite finiihed. Its thus beauti- fied at the toft of two Brothers Rich Gentlemen and Merchants of qh ^y; this Town, who allow the third part ncriLo- of their gains to the adorning of m tini, this Church. The roof of it isall gilt', and fetwth Curious Pidures in rhtfwxd. The Altars rounda- bout the C hurch, are cheeked with exquifire Pillars, srd adorned with rare Pictures. The two Rows of V*ft Pillars , which hold up the Roof of the Church, arefobcauti- full , being of a red and wkjre Marble, that they look like fa/pcr, and ravifli the Eeholder : 1 hey are curictfly wrought a nd chmlled.


88 The Voyage

S. -Am- 3. The Church of S. Ambropa\ brofio. belonging to the feftths is neatly overcrufted with Marble, and guilt above in the roof. It wants a little length, for want of room to build on: it being too near the Doges Pallace , and not daring to advance a ftep farther for fear of treading upon his heels. '& Cjtty. 4. The Church of the Theatins called S. Cjro^ is very handfome, with its double row of white marble Pillars, which kt it out very grace- fully. IhtCloifier alfo is very neat, and the Fathers very civil.

5. ihe PaHaces here are moft fumptuo us. Thofe of the Strada No- va are the beft, and.the bsft ot thofe is that of the Prince d' Oria : its built upon white round Marble pil- lars, which fupport its GalUries, and thofe Galleries let you into noble Rooms adorned with all the Abel- liwtnti of Italian Palfcces. The other Fallaces too in this Street de- ferve particular mention in this my defci iption of Genoa,,, and may take it ill I fay nothing of them; but i they mull excufe my brevity, and

impute


The Pd-

Uces.


1 ftp Italy. 89

impute the fault partly to them- selves ■ feeing dmirable things are liable to this inconvenience, that they are Ifo unexpreffable.

6. I f ; w alfo the two PatUces of The Pal* the Sigwirl Balbi, in the Street of laces sf the Annunciate* In the one whereof Sigxori (on the left hind) I faw, among -#<*/&. other rich things, a Looking GUfs,

valued at threefcore thoufand crowns. Its much of the fize of thofe Looking-gla/Tes , which Seneca calls fpecuia toti corpori paria, that is, as bigg, and brittle, as thofe that look themfelves in them. The Fume oi it is all of Silver , fet thick with a thoufand little armed Figures , like Cupids : as if the plain Mirrour of this Looking-Glafs were the plain field where C/^Wpitcheth his Tents, and begins his Conquefts over fair Ladies. The round Pillars fet in the Porch of this home , and the Gimchi £ aequo, in the Garden,will •make themfelves be taken notice of.

7. The Pal/ace of the Doge, or y^ biennial Prince here, with the fe- $ , veral Chambers of Juflice, and the p JZ Armory in it for thirty thoufand *

E ij men


The Ar- mory.


San TU'

troin

Arena.


<?o The Voyage

men ought to be carefully feen. In one of the great Halls of this Pal- lace^ve feen twelve Statues of white Marble^ reprefenting twelve famous men of this Town, who had render- ed great fervice to the Common- wealth, In the foreftid Armory you fee a Halberd with. two Piftol bar- rels in t he lower end of ic. You fee alfo the Armor of the Gennefian Amazons, who went to the War in the Holy Land, ard carried them- selves gallantly. Here's alfo a Can- non of Leather fo light, that a man may carry it.

8. But that which is the mod taking mGcnua, is that which is out of Genna^ /mean, the {lately .Suburbs of San Pietro in Arena , where for 1 mile together , Villas adorned with Marbles, Painting, Statues, Gardens, Arbors of Gelfo- min , Onnge , and Lemon Trees, Crotts, Ponds?, G'mochi d' Accjt<a, Founta ins , high Walls, with Shades born up by Marble Pillars , &c. c mpofc,of many Pallacesand Gar- dens , inch a beautiful Landskip , that the whole place feemtd to me,

to


OF I T A L Y.

to be the Charming ParadifeOi the King of the Mountains anciently ; and / was almofl: going to fay , that wedurft notbjefs ourfelves, leaft this enchanted place fhould have vanifhed. The bed Villas, or Pal- laces here, arethofeof Hieronymo Negro , and that of the Imperial! : the firft beautified with all the g ra ces o f Italian Furniture , as a 1 fo with Gardens, Walks, Ponds, Wa- terworks, Allies \ ejre. the other, befides all thefe , hath an excellent Profpecl •, for the Mafler of- this Houfe can fee out of one Window of it, Twelve thoufand Crowns a year of his own , onely in let Houfe*. The other Paliaces here expect / (hould fay fome.hing of them , and they deferve it well- but really to give them tlieir full due, /can onely fay this of them, chat they ought to be feenby the eye, not defcribed by the Pen.

9. As you return from San Pie- Tfa Villa tre in Arena, to 'the Town not far f the from the Gates, (lands the Villa, or jy#y Pallace of the Duke d' Oria. /re- fori*. ferved this for the la ft , pur (aire E iij bonne


92 The Voyage

bonne bomhe. It ftands upon the Sea fide, and its Garden towards thi Sea is built upon three rowes ol white Marble Rails , born up by white Marble /V/<*r.r,which amend- ing by degrees , is fo beautiful to behold from the Sea, that ftrangera paffingthat way toGenoa, take this garden for a fecond Paradi/e. In the midftof it (lands the rare fountain of Neptttnp, representing the true looks of brave Andrea T? Oriathc Neptune of the" Ligurian Sea, and the man who put his Country out of Livery , and taught it not to ferve. All along one fide of this Garde* ftands a Cage of Iron y about a hundred paces long-, and fo high that it fetcheth in a world of laurel and other Trees, clad with chirping birds of feveral forts-, and to make the poor Birds believe that they are rather in a wood, then in a prifon, the very Cage hath put even the wood it felf in prifon. Tjien entring into the Pallace, we found it moft curioufly adorned with ra- rities and riches futable to the Countrys humour, and the Matters

purfe


of Ital y. 93

purfe. Its true, when this gucen of Spain paffed from Germany into Spain , by the way of Milan and Genoa , the Governour of Milan told her , that (he fhoald fee in ^' 0r*Vs Pallace here many fine things , but all borrowed of the Townfmen. Which d'Oria hearing of beforehand, caufed to be writ- ten over the great Gates of the Pal/ace , where the Jgueen was to enter and lodge, thefe words in Spanifh, By the Grace of God, and the Kings favour \ there s nothing here borrowed. It may be, the cunning- Governotir of Milan thought by telling the £ueen this , to oblige the Duke D'Oria to prefent fome of his beft things to the Queen, to (hew her that they were his own . as its faid, the late Duke of Buc- kingham did in France, by break- ing his Diamond Hatband among the Court Lad es, who faid he had onely borrowed it ; bur, the wife Italian by this trick , both kept his own , and yet fatisfied the jQueen. Indeed he hath things here both too good to be given away, and E i-ii}; too


The Go- vernment,


94 The Voyage'

too great to he carried away: wit- nefs thofe rare Silver Tables which are in his wardrobe , one whereof weigheth Twenty four thoufand pound weight. From the Pallace we were led over the Street to his great Garden upon the Hill fide, where all the graces that can make ug a Gar- den, are found.

As for the Government f Fafhions % Wealth, Strength, and Interefi of Genua, /found them to be thus :

Their Government , is 'Dmocra-' tical , or Popular , by a Doge (chofen every two years; and eight Senators, who live with him in the Vallace , and aflift him with their counfel. The Great Council 'here, which is the Foundation of the Government, confifts of Four hun- dred men chofen indifferently ouc of all the Families of the Town. Thefe deliberate with the Signo- ria of all things that belong to War or "Peace. Antiently , as / hinted before , Genoa was under the French Domination , till Andrea d* Oria fet it free. Hiftories write ©fit that Benngarim the Third,an&

the


9%


of Italy.

the Sarazens fo ruined Genua, that they left it fwimming in its own blood : Which ruin was forewarned by a prodigie of a fountain of b!oo<f which ran in the very ftreets of Genua. It had like to have fwamme a fecond time in its blood, when Lewis the XII of France entering into Genua viftorioufly with fword in hand, tbreatning the utter ruin of that people , was pacified by the mournful cries of four thoufand lit- tle Children , who clad in fackcloth and placed in the great Piaz,za,cry- ed out to the King in a piercing accent , Mifericordia e Viet a , Mer- cy and P HI y. But fince Genua fhook off the French Yoke , it hath lived perpetually jealous of the French , especially fince it discovered , fome years part, divers attempts oi France againft it, whileft the French hid Portolonrone and Fhmbino.

For this reafon ; the Genuefi lean much to the SpamftFaclion; and Vafhiont following VatJion , thev lean alfo much to the Sfanijh fafiion both in humor and apparel. Hence I found here Broad Hats E v without


Their Fafkhm*


g6 The Voyage

without Hatbands, broad Leather girdles with fleet buckles , narrow Breeches with long-waited Doublets and hanging- fleeves, to be a la mode, as well as in Madrid, And I found all the great Ladies here to go like the Donnas of Spain in Guardinfantas , that is, in horrible overgrown Tartingals of whilebone, which being put about the wafte of the Lady, and full as broad on both fides as (he can reach with her hands, bear out her Coats in fuch a huffing manner, that (he appearf to be as broad as long. So that the men here with their little dole Breeches, looked like Tumblers that leap through the houfs : and the wo- men like thofe that danced anci- ently the H»bbj-horfe in Country Mummings. Two of thefe Ladies meeting one another in thefe narrow Streets , make as great an Embarras as two Carts of Hay do upon London Bridge : and I have feen their Ladifhips ftrangely puz- led how to juggle themfclves into a narrow Sedan, or Littar: indeed Half of my Ladj hangs out. For my

part


o»f F t aly: 9 j

part I admire that this Jealous Re- pub/icl^ doih not fear, lead fome of thefe Lad'e; ( upon a difguft) fliould carry a fet of little fhvrc Gum under her Coats, and under pretence of preferring a Petition to the Senate afTembled , give them a broad- fide or two, and make a horrible confufion in the Republic^. If all this Bulk of Clothes, which m ke the women here look like Haycocks with armes and heads ^ be allowed them by their wife huf- bands, to render them more vifible 1 and lefs able to go privately into any fufpe&ed houfes, it* good po- licy .•other wife, moil: cm in it is, that the wives governs cheat horri» bly the Husbands br etches of aim oft all the fluff. I have onely hesrd (and it was from a Nobleman of Genoa) of one Lady here chac made q^^;^ right ufe of thefe Guardinfamas^wd f a .„ ta n„ it was (Tie, who feeing her onely n M ts £' Son (a young Nobleman of Genoa q^]^. about eighteen years old) already prelerver condemned to prifon, and ready to be condemned to the Sc ffold for a heinous crime, got leave to vifit

bim


8D»


etr


98 Th e Voyage

him in prifon as often as (he plea- fed •, and at laft , by means of a good Guardinfanta ot Steely inftead of whale-bone (he took up her Son under her Coats in that Guar- dinfama ,. and marching out of the prifon gravely , as (he ufed to do, by leaning upon two ancient Wo- men , as the Fafliion is here for great Ladies to do , (he carried him home fo • and being there deliver- id of him a fecond time , without a Midwife , (he fent him prefently out of the Countrey to be nurfed and kept. Thus (he faved her Fa- milies honour. Was not this a true Gtiardinfanta, which preferved thus the life of a Child? But was not this alfo a gallant Mother that went with a Child who was full eighteen years ©Id when his Mother bore him? The ©nely pity was , that this gallant Mother had not the happinefs once to be Mother of a gallant Son/eeing Ihehad had the trouble of bringing forth fuch a Son twice.

As for their Riches r I am told they pafle not a Million and two hundred } thovfrndCroym a year. In- deed


of Italy.


99


deed the King of Spain Philip the II above a hundred ysars ago,borrow>- ed of this Republic^ the fum of ele- ven Millions , ani keeps them (till in his hands, to ceep this Repub- lic^ in awe ;, yet paying the inte- reft duly unto them. So that the Common purfe here is nothing fo rich as that of Venice, though the particular men here are farr richer then thofe of Venice. They have great Trading both with France and Spain find, are great Banqukrs , making the Change in all the Bancks of Europe go as they pleafe. Befides^ they utter a world of Taffata* } Vel~ vets, Sattins, Points of needle work, and divers other things of Value.

As for their Strength, its enough Their to defend themfdves, fcarce enough strength to offend others. For Genoa is back'd up by the d-pennins , where all paf- fages are eafily made good againfl: Invaders ;. and it is fo well fortifi- ed on the other fide by the Sea- it fclf j twelve or fourteen good G allies > twenty Ships of Warr, and its incomparable Molo y that they could fcuflie notably in their own

defence


ioo The Voyage

defence. Befides v GV»<M is fortified not onely with its Hills and Sea, but alfo with its new walls and bull- works of fione ^ nay, and with its Bone-walls too, that is, with a La- cedemonian ^oall of a world of Inha- bitant^ and with the Illuftrious Fa- milies of cC Oria t Spinola r Grimaldi> Sauli , Vttrazjzi, Catanei , and others, whofe feveral names would go almoft for feveral Armies. Yet for a need , they can raife thirty thoufand men, and arme them well out of their Arfenal.l confefs, here- tofore they were ftrong enough to offend others; for they made warr agiinft che Tifani, and worfled them : They fet alfo upon the /- fand oiCorfica % diftant from Genoa about a hundred miles, and took it. This fhnd g^ve the Republic^ of Genoa more honour then pro- fit : for, it be ; ng once a Kingdom, gives full to Genoa t he Title of Se- renifjima, and * Clofe Regal Crown over its Coat of 4rmes. In fine, the Genofi #ere itrong enough hereto- fore, to lend greit fuccors to God- freyof BnUenva his holy Conqueft

@f


of It al y> -*iot

o^Hierufalem. Hence upon the very Arcaot the JJo/jSe pule her in Hie- rufalem, are written thefe words i Prtpotms (jemenfittm prajtdium.

As for their Jntereft, it feemed Their In* to me to be farr more Spainifb then ttrtfl. Frcncb,by reafon of the great profit they dr iw from Spain , which cor- refponds with the rich State of Mi- lan in Men and Moneys , by means or" the Genoefi: yet they are well with all Ch'tfiian Princes^ except with the Duke of. Sdvoj who pre- tends to Savona,

As for the Learned men of this Their Town, I find them no" to be fo learned many. The rich Bmcjmer is more wen, efteemed here r then the leirned Dhine. Yet I find here uifo fome famous for learning, ro wit, Bfiptifla Tregofus, or Ktilgbfus, wh>.' for his fitfg«|ar parts being chosen <>>#?of Genoa, and by his own difloyal kindred, chafed Scorn Government and country ^comforted himself it! his- Audits', and having obfeiv c u ma- ny particular things in Biltory, be reduced them co heads, ?nd left vis a jnft volume of Memorable May- ings


102 The Voyage

fags and Deeds of the Ancients s for which work he is Ailed by Alberto Leandro, the Valerius Maximnsoi Italy. He wrote in Italian, and dedicated his Book to his Son. The other Learned men of this Town are fuftinianus^ Balus, M a/car di, and Chrijtofher Columbus.

Genoa alfo hath given to the

Church three Popes, Adrian the

V. Innocent the IV 3 and Innocent

the Vlir.

The A- Here is an Academy of wits cal-

cademy of 1 ed the Adormcntati^ which toge


Wits. ther with the other Academies of the like nature in all theTownes of Italy , I would wiftl my Travel- ler to vifit particularly, that he may fee how farr the Italians excel us , in parting their time well • and how its much better to fpend the week in making of Orations and Verfes , then in drinking of Ale and fmoak- i«g of Tobacco.

Their Hi- He that defires to know more fierian. of Genoa, let him read Augttftintts fuftiniamtf of the Hiftory of Genoa.

Having fpent fix dayes in Genoa , we agreed with an honeft Vtunrina

to


o


f Italy. 103


to conduft us to Milan , which is Monftm about four little dayes journey from hence. In another voyage I went from Genoa to Turin by Monferrat, and fa w in my way Novi (of which by and by ) Trim, Carole one of the ftrongeft places of Italy ^ having a Cajfale. ftrong Cittadelle^ a ftrong Cafile , ftrong Town-walls and ditches ;and ■Alexandria della pagtia, a ftrong Town (landing upon the Po.

But now at this time leaving (7*- Alexan^; noa J and intending for Mila-a\ we dria. rid through San Pittro d' Arena , by the Carthufians Monafiery, over the Appennin Hills> and in a day an<j a half came to Novi,

Novi is a little ftrong Town 2VHf belonging to the Genoefi , and Frontier to the Milanefi. Its fome twelve Miles diftant from Tortona , thefirft frontire Town or the State of Milan : and becaufe thefe Fron- tiers were then pefter'd with J5<*«- dits, a Nobleman of Genoa y who was in our company, be'gg'd of the Governour of Novi, a Convoy for himfelf and us, to fecure us to Torto-

    • The Governor prefently granted

us


io4 The Voyage

us a Cm*?; of eight or ten horfe- men: but, thofe very men he gave us for our Convoy , were Bandits themfelves, who being banifhed from the State and Town of Genoa for their mifdemeanours , had two Moneths a year allowed them to come freely into Frontier Towns, and negotiate with [he State. Thek men were thought by the Gover- nour to be our fjfeft Guards in dan- ger, who were the onely men that caufed danger. Having been thus 1 convoyed fafely by our honeft Rogues paft all danger , we payed them fome three Ptjtoles ; and feared no more danger , till we fhould meet with fuch fervants as thefe another time.I confefs,it feem- ed at fir ft a fearful thing, to fee our felves in the hands of thofe, who had the ir hands often in blood : yet there is fuch a charmeina Gover- nors Parole r that we thought our felves as w,ell armed with it, as if we had been fliot-free, and had had all the Spells of Lapland about w. TortoKA. V Ve had no iboner pirted from thefe our Guards, but pa/ling over

a


of Italy. 105

a little River on Horfeback , we en- tred into the MiUnefe, and came at night to Tomna a ftrong frontier Town of the Milanese , where Charles the VI LI of France , in his return from the Conqueft of Na- ples, beat the Venetians and the Mi- lencfi in a battel.

From Tortona we went the next day to Pavia, the fecond Town of the State of MiUn^xA once thefeac of twelve Kings of the Longobards. Pwfa It Hands upon the River Hcimm, and hence its alfo called in Laein rr. . TkinHnt' Heres an Vniverjtty cither founded or furniflied at M r with Readers, or by Readers of the Vniverfitj of Oxford. The chief Col- ledges are.that of Pius Jguintus, and that of S.ChArfes Bmom&Ms. The other remarkable things here, are. J. The Dcmoy in which lieth buried The Do* the body of a holy Bifhop of this mo. Town, called Sauli t who was con- temporary to S. Charles Borrom*tts y and of the fame Paftoral fpirit and zeal. Near the great door of this Church (on the infidej they fhew you a little Mag of a Boat which


num.


106 Th e Voyage

they make ignorant people believe (for fport) to have been the Lance of Orlando Furiofo. The E* 2. Near the Domo^ in the Piaz- qrteftris ^a, ftands a Brazen Statue \ which Statua fome affirm to be the Statue of of ' Ant<r_ Conft amine the Great} others, more vinus* probably^ of Antoninus Pius. It was brought from Ravenna hither by Victory-, and it had like to have bten carried back again to Ra- venna by Vittory. For Lotrech the French General in the taking ol this Town , having granted this Sta- tue to a Souldier of Ravenna (who ferved under him, and who ha- ving mounted the Breach firft , asked nothing for his recompence but that Statue >, taken anciently from his Native Town) Yet after- wards moved with the generofity of the Townfmen ( who having left all things elfe with fome pa- tience, to the prey of the Souldiers, Burfl: into Tears, when they heard that this Statue was to be taken from them ) Lotrech changed his guift to the Souldier, and left the Ci- tizens of Pavk their dear Statue.

3. I


of Italy. 107

3. Haw the Auguftins Church , S. AuPtt- where the body of that great Father fl iHS y ^\ of the Church S. Augufiin lieth buried. It was tranflated hither

out of Sardinia by Luit^randm King of the Longobards ; an arme of Baron.aK which S. Augujiin a King of Eng- r 2 5 ^ I and redeemed at a great rate, and B* rm > an * yet cheap too, if it were his wri- l02 5». "* ting arme , wherewith he wrote fuch admirable Books. The new Tombe in the Sacrifiy is all of white Marble, rroftexquilitly carved with . Hiftorical Statues reprefenting the moft remarkable adions of that Bettor.

4. In the fame Church we were The fhown the Tombe of Severing Tons be of Bcetius Author of that great little Seven- Book de Conjolatione Thilofahica, nus Boe- which he wrote in hisexile,tocom- tint, fort himfelf He was a Conful of

Rome for dignity, another S.Denjs See Ba- tor learning and lofinghis headland ron. an. held a Martyr by many. 525.

5. In the Cloifler of this Convent of the Auvuftins , lie buried two EngHJbmen of note, the Duke of Suffolk and an EngUJh Bijhop cal- led


Learned men.


The Hi- fiorians.


10S Th e Vo'y a ge -

led Parker, of the Houfe Ql*MorUy, read their feveral Epitaphs upon the wall of this Cloifter near the little door that goes from hence in- to the Church, but have forgot them fince-

6. The Chappel where the Bones of the Frenchmen killed in the Bat-

'•telefPavia are kept andfhown to ftrar.gers.

7. In the Framifcans Church here, lies buried Baldns the famous Jurifconfult. ,

8. The long wodden- Bridge, co- vered over head with a perpetual Pemlioufe, to defend men as well from the Sun, as from the Rain.

Of this Town were Ennoditu TV- cinenjis, and Lanfrancns Archbifhop of Canterbury* who wrote fo lear- nedly fgainft Berengarim for the Re- al Pre fence.

He that defires to know the par- ticular Hiitory of ravia , let him read Antonio Spelta, and Sac- co.

From Pavla we went to Milan % fome twenty miles off-, and in the way, faw the famous Monafiery of

the


of Italy. 109

the Carthuftans , near unto which f upon S. Matthias Ms day (ad.'.y favourable to Charles the V, feeing - he was borne on that day ; crowned Emperour on that day ; and got this Victory on that day) was fought that memorable Battel between the 7^ g at z faid Emperours Forces, and the telcfPa*. French King^An. 1 52.5. where Fran- v ' %At ckthe I. of />v?»a was taKen Prifo- ner, having loft the day,not for want of courage,but conduti : for he had a little before, fent away half of his Army to the conqueft of Naples ; j by which he fo weakened the reft of his Army here, that he both loft: the day, and did nothing ag^inft the Kingdom of Naples : a great faulty obferved by one that was <^ ^ n- prefent there , to wit , Monfiwr ^ u y s Monluc. Francis being thus taken Q omm(n . prifont-r,was prefently conducted to tar ' lcSt the Carthfifians Monastery y which was hard by. Entering into the Church, and finding the Monks fwging.in the third hour this verfe of the Pfidme^ Cwgu latum eft ft- cut lac cor eorum,ego verc legem tnam mtditattu fum, he ftruck up with

them


1 10 The Voy a ge

them at the next verfe, and Sung, aloud with a piety as great, as his lofs, or courage , Bonum mi hi quia humiliafti me , ut difcam jufttfica- tiones tvtas : that is, its well for me that thou haft humbled me ,that i may J learn thy fujiifications. After he had heard Mafs here, he w; s carried to Dinner in the Minaftery , and was ferved by three Generals of the Spanijh Army, Launey , Bcurbcn , and the Marquis of Vafti: the one holding the baftn t the fecond pouring water upon his hands ^ and the third prefenting him the towel. Some fay he refufed to be ferved by Beurbm^ looking upon him as a revoked Jraytor , rather then as an enemy .- indeed the brave French Knight Bayard (firnamed, the Chvaliev favsfeur, whodiedin this Battel,) being founcf expiring in the field, by Bourbon, who fatd to him, Peer Bayard ! I pitty thee 5 anfwered him with all "the courage and life that was left him; No y Traytcr, J am net to be pittytd, who dye nobly ferving my King and Country : but, j thou rather art to be pit tied, who

liveft :


O P 4


TAX Y.


Ill


live ft a Tray tor to thy Khg and Country. As for the King be was led )rifoner into Spain , where he was cepr at Madrid till, he, p^yd his ranfom. Hence the Spaniards br* g t that they had once a French King ?rifoner, and the French had never any King of Spain prifoner : but the French anfwer , that their King lad not been prifoner had he foughc is the Kings of Spayn do of late, hat is, by Proxie, and not in perfon. however this Francis the firft de- served better fortune, being a Princt If great courage and honour, and i great lover of his Souldiers; For lot long before , he had beaten he Smjfers in the battle of San %nato , where his Souldiers foughc pr him with lingular courage and teal. And he had (kferved it all : ■tor he was fo good to his Souldiers n that expedition that he would ide up and down the Camp in the jight to vifit the wounded Souldiers. hd help them to all necefTarJes; lommanding even His own fleets p be cut in pieces to bind up their pounds.

F As


Monajle rj.


Ill The Voyage As for the Monaster) it felfof The Car- the Carthufiam^ its one of the moft thttfians {lately Monafteries of Italy, and I believe, the fecond of that Order. The great Cloifie* is" all covered with fead. The Church is one of the hand* fomeft-of Italy, though builr a la Tc defca. TheFroncifpice of it is adorn- ed with a world of heads and figures of white marble. The Chappels with- in are richly adorned and painted. The Tabernacle is worth fourfcore thoufand crowns. The I omb of their founder , . fohn Galeaz,z,o Vifconti, Duke of Milan, which ftands a little Without the Squire, with the cuntbent Statues of Ludovico Moro the lafl: Duke of Milan and his Wife, lying under the other, is a- ftateiy Monu- ment. In the Sacrifly we were fliown many fine Relickj, much rich Church- plate, and the curious back of an Al- tar of Ivory cut into Hiftories after a rare manner,

Paffing from hence we came to Milan. This Town is furnamed the Great $ and rightly, feeing it carries full ten miles in compafs within the wails. Jc hath ten Gates

to


Milan)


Of I T AL Y. XI£

co ic ^ two hundred Churches tvith- in ic , and three hundred thou-

. fand fouls dwelling in it. Hence ic Wit anciently called Altera Roma,

| a feconid Rome, both becaufe of its ^heDutZ greatnefs , and becaufe of its other ^ r titles t which made it look like ^/j^ Rome. Its the Head of the beft Dutchy in Europe, which is a hun- dred miles long from North to South % and containeth four hun- Towns in it. Its called Milan quafi Midland , being a pure Mediterra- nean Town, and having ( which is a wonder ) not fo much as a river of its own running in it ^ but is onely ferved by two Channels cut ouC of the Time and the Adder. This Town hath heretofore fuftered much by warre - great Towns being the fair- eft Marks to (hoot at, and Milan hath been forty times ftioc ac by Siege*, and twenty tin: es hit, and ta- ken, having had the misfortune to have been under divers factions and Rulers : as the Emperours, the Turriani, the Vifconti, the Sforze, the French , and vhe Spaniards, who now keep it, merceal Caftdlo, which

Fij fhveth s


114 The Voyage ftaveth off all V ttempts of ftrangers- France pretends to this Dutch] as heir of Valcntia Vifconty^ who was marryed to £ems Duke of Orleans, whofehoufe was excludrd from this Dutchy by Francis Sforza, who pof. fefledfiimfel" of r.his State,

As for the things which I faw in Milan, they are thefe. Store of I. *he ftore of Gentry and iW,- Gentry. bility here, which i perceived to be very numerous , becaufe of an hun- dred Coaches f no Hackneys,) which I faw ftandmg before a Church upon a private Festival day 6f that Church. Store ef 2." Great (lore of . Artlfans y as Artizans Goldfmithsj Armourers, Gunfmiths 5 Weavers, hi!kftocking-makers 5 Re- finers of Gold, thofe that work in Cryflalfind a World of others .• which gives occafion to the Proverb ? which faith, that he that would improve all S Italy, mufl deflroy Milan fir]} : for if

Milan were deftroyed, the many Ar- tizans that are there 3 would fpreid overall jt.dy, and furrsifh the other Town*, which -WW" Artisans 3. The Churches here , arid fir ft .1 that


Of Italy. II 5

that of S. Ambrofe, where that glo- rious Father of the Church refufed ftoutly to Theodofius the Emp.rour , entrance into that Church 9 beciufe of his pafiionate commanding the Afaffacre at Thejfalonica , where feven thoufand men were murder- ed for the fault of a few. Under the high Altar of this Church lyeth the Body of S. Ambrofe ^ as alfo the bodies of S. Gtrvafius and Prota- fiw, two primitive .SWff/.r. whofe bo- dies were found whiles S. Attftin lived at Milan ^ and who alfo re- lates a famous and known Miracle to have been wrought by.GW, at the Trdnflatibn of thofe holy Mar- tyrs bodies into this' Church. In this Chmch alfo is feen upon a high Pillar of a round form ' a Brazen Serpent, like that erected by ■ Mo- fes in the .-.pefert, and commanded by God hirhfeif to be made. I ira;- gin it wM fet up here for the fame end, for which it was commanded by God to be fet up myfticalJy in the Defert, that is, to put men in mind of our Saviours exaltation upon the Croft for mankind \ the frequent - F 2 memory


S. Am- brofe his Church*


S. Am- .

brofe his \ Tomb.

Reads'. Augxfiin lib. 9. ■ Conf. c.r.


Numb.


John 3,


!l6 The Voyage memory of which is a Scverain An- tidote againft the flings of the infernal ferpent the Devi/,

4. Near unto the forefaid Church of S. Ambrofe ftands the little Chap- pel, where S Auguflin with his little Adeodatus and his friend Alipfius was baptized, as the words over the Altar teftify -, and from this little Chappel S. Ambrofe and S. Auguflin (now a Chriflian) going procefiio- nally to the Great Church , made

The the Hjfmn Te Deum, as they went •

Hymn one ma king one Verfe t the other an- Te Deum other.

5. The other little Chappel on the other fide of S. Ambrofe his Churchy is built upon the place where S. Auguflin was nrft con- verted by a voice which faid to him , Tolle lege, To/le lege : mean- ing S. Pauls Epiftles : which he do- ing, pitched juft upon thofe words

The place to the Romans. Non in cubilibus & of the impudicitiu , fed induimini Jefum Converfi- Chriftum^ &c. And fo of an im- •*of m S. pure Maniehean he became a chaft Auflin,'^ Chriflian.

6, I fawadjoyningco this Church

of


Ob Italy. II 7

©f S. Ambrofe the ftately Mom- The O fiery , with two curious Cloislers flertians buik upon round pillars;. The Mo- Mcna- natfrery, as well as S. Ambrofe his fiery. Church belongs to the Cifiertian Mcnks.

7. Then I faw the Church of S. S.Vittcrs ViEior belonging to the Olivetan Church. Fathers; with the admirable picture of S. George killing the Dragon , of the hand of Raphael Vrbin. This is a neat Church when it is adorned in its feeft hangings 5 as it was when I faw it. The double Cloifters hereof the Momfiery built upon round pil- lars ought to be feen.

8L In the Church of S.N sarins s.Naza* are to be feen the Tombs of the Tri- r j 0m vftlti'r, {lately Monuments.

9. In the Church of S. Eufiorgius I law the Area , or old Tomb , in which repofed the bodies of the three Magi who came to adore our Savi- S. Mu- cur in Bethleem, whofe bodies were flcrgw, tranflated from hence to Cclen in Germany , where I have feen them,

by reafon of the deftra&tion of Milan.

10. I faw alfo the Church of S.

F iiij L*u~


Il8 The" V oy a g i Lynrence , built like that of Santla Sophia in Conftantwople. Here lies buryed Placidia the Sifter of Hono- rita the Emperour.

it. There are clivers other Churches here, all worth particular vifiting, by reafon of fome rare thing in them : as in that of S. Mark^y the rare peece of Simon Magus his fall from the skyes. In that of the Pajfion the rare, picture of the lafi Supper, by Chryftophoro Cibo. In that of S.Ceifo, a nre pi- cture of Raphaels hand in the S aerify. The Theatins^ and the fefmts Church- es are' very neat.

1 2 But the belt of all the Churches The Do- of Milan is the new Domo , in the aw. midft of which lyeth fcufytc! the

new S. Ambrose of Milan * I mean S. Charles Bonomaus , an ocW S. Ambrofe in Paftoral dignity , zeal, and fandtity. This Church I take to be the fecond in Italy for folid work ; buing built all of white mar- ble,, with lies and Pillars , each Pillar worth ten thoufand crowns, & there are a hundred and threefcore

fuch


Of Italy. M£

furch Pillars in all, of ma/five white S % Loren\ marble • not candied and frozen *?» over with a thin cruft of marble j as moft of the other fine Churches of Italy are. There are alfo rjx hun* dred white marble Statues fet round about the out-fide of this Church , each of them coft a thonfand crowns. That of S. Bartholomew with his skin upon his arm ; and that of Adam, are two pieces much admired, and are of the-hand of Chri- ftophoro Cibo. The Frontiftice is not yet finifhed : but if that be the true defign of it, which I have feen in pictures , in the Capuchins Coifter in Rome, it will be moft (lately. T l e Church it felf isfaid to be 250 cubits long. Near the Quire , and almoft in the middle of the Church, lyeth the body of S. Charles Borromem in a low Vault , turned now into a Chappel, open at the top with low raytes round about it • The infide of this Chappel is hung with hangings of cloth of gold, over which runs a Cornijh of filver plate nailed to the wall. Upon the Altar lyeth the body of S. Charles at length in F v a




T20 T H E V


O Y A G B


a fair Qrjfal Coffin made of fe veral great fquares of Qrjftal, through which (the wood den Cafe being opened by fpecial leave from the Archbifhop^) we law his body lying aH along in his Epifcopal robes i. His face, hands, and feet , are onely feen, and his nofe and Upps are lhrunck and parched. The true Picture of this Saint hangs at the entrance below into this Chappel, and hisHiftory and wonderful Acti- ons are hung up in painting round about the Church on high. Over the high Altar , in the very rosfoi The Hdj the Church, is kept one of the Nails MaH of the Crofs of our Saviour , given anciently to the Milanefi by the Em- perour Theodoftus. There burn al- wayes before it a number of littfe Lamps ) fet crofs-wife, and drawn up thither with a pully , to fhew the people where that holy Relick U. In fine, the Steeple of this Church is not to be forgotten. Its not quire finilhed yet, but its high enough to tyre any man 5 and tofhew him from the top of if, the whole Town «f Milan, the whole cempafs and

circum-


O F I T A L Y. ilJt

circumference of the rare Co/Me-, and the whale Country round about for twenty miles on every fide : a fighc fo pleafant , that I would wifli my Traveller, not only to mount up to the top of this Steeple , but ( for this Steeples fake) to make it his conftant pra&ife fas I did,) to mount up the chief Steeple of all great Towns.

13. The great Hofpital built in a The Hofi quadrangle upon arches and round pitaL '. pillars is a moft magnificent thing. Really if ficknefs were not a little unwholefome and troublefome , a man would almoft wifh to be a little fick here, where a King, though in health , might lodge handfouiely, The place where the fick people are kept, is built crofs-wife, and in the middle of that crofs , ftand* an open Altar where all the fick people from their feveral quarters and from their very beds 3 may hear the Divine Service at once. Four thoufand men are .entertained* daily in this Hofpital, and there- . fore k hath great Revenue?. «5\ Charles was a great Pensfa&w rr>


t.\


The Se- nary.


Ill The Voyacs it, and gave away to it and other pious ufes, in half an hour, five and twenty thousand Crowns of Inheri- tance, which were fallen to him (be- ing a man of eminent birth) half an hour before. Indeed he had no other Wife then his Church , nor other Children then the Poor.

14. The {lately Seminary •, and the Coliedge for the Swijfers, are no- ble buildings, and the Eternal works


The Col- of the aforefa - d s Charles, ledge oj 2 he Swif-


fers. The Laz.

%>areto*


15. The Lazzaretto is a Vaft building, carrying in compafs a thoufand and eight 'hundred yards. It ftands near the Town walls , yet out of the Town , and it is to receive into it Thofe that are fick of the plague. There are as many Chambers in it , as there are dayes in the year. In the middle of the fquare of this vaft Court, or Quadrangle, ftands a round C happel , covered at the top-, but open on all fides in fuch a manner , as that all the people from iheir feveral Cham- bers and beds, may behold the Prhfl faying Divine fervict, and joyn their

devotions


Of Italy. I2§

devotions to his. 1 have read in the life'of S. Charles Borrom&us, that in a plague time, he vifited thofe that were infe&ed, and miniftred the holy Sacraments to them himfelf in perfon • and went in a folemn Pro- ceffion in the head of the Clergy, with a rope about his neck, and barefoot upon the ftones, to move ftony hearts to repentance , and to appeafe thewrathof God angry with his people.

1 6. The Bibliotheca \ Ambrofmna ~i ^^ is one of the beft Libraries in Italy , # becrufe it is not fo coy as the others, \ which fcarce let themfelves be feen ^ whereas this opens its dores pub- licity to all comers and goers , and furTers Them to read what book they pleafe. It was begun to be builded by S. Charles, and continued by bis Nephew Cardinal Federico Borromao : but it was much aug- mented fince by the acceffion of Vincentim Pint Hi's books, which after his death, being (hipped by his heirs for Naples , and taken by. "■ the Turks, were many of them thrown over board by thofe anal-

phabet


124 The Voyage

phabet Rogues , who looked for other merchandize than Books. Yet many of them were recovered argain for Money, and fet uphere. Over the heads of the higheft Shelves, are fet up the Pictures of Learned Men, a. thing of more coft: , than profit; feeing with that coft many more Books might have been bought , and Learned Men are beft feen in their Books and Writings, Loyuere , m tt videam. The Gal- J 7* behind tne Librtry ftands of Pi. ^ e gallery of Pictures , where I CI tires ^ aw man y choice Originals of prime Matters 3 and fome exquifite Copies , as thofe four Pieces of the Four Ele- ments , which certainly are copied after thofe that Ldefcribed above in the Houfe of the Vuchefe of Savvy near Turin , called La Valentine. But the rareft piece or all , either in the Library , or here , is the rare Mamt* fcript Kept here , of Alberto Dureo. Three hundred Pounds havebeenre- fufed for ir. The D*- 1 8. The Dominicans Library is minkans. ver y confiderable too. But you muft not omit to fee the Refe&my

here,


Of I t a t y. ti$

here , where you ftiall find an ad- mirable Pi&ure of the Loft Supper made by Rare Laurentins Vincius, The Painted Cleitter here defervesa Vifittoo.

19. The Monaflery alio called the The Gra> Gratis 5 is one of the beft in Eume 5 tie*

in whofe Church is a rare Piclure of Chrifi crowned with thorns , of the hand of Titian.

20. The Famous Gallery andCu- 7^ ££ riofitics of Canonico Setali 3 far bet- fc m p ter than that of Mon[\eur Servier in Canmico Lyons } of which above. And here Setali.

1 wiftt my Pen were as ingenious to defcnbe all the rare things of this Gallery , as the noble Canon fetali hath been in gathering them , and courteous in fhewing them : fome of thefe curious things I yet remem- ber, for my Readers fake; as a great variety of Burning:glaj[es , and yet not Convex , as ours ordinarily are ^ one of them fet fire prefently to a piece^of board an inch thick that was brought forth. 2, A Man* dragora. 3 A bird without feet, called by Ariflctle Apodes. 4. A Stone OUC ©f which is drawn a thread y which

being


tt&l The Voyage

being fpun and woven, makes a Stuff like linnen indeed , but of an incombuftible nature : The Scone is called Asbeftos^ and the fluff Amy- anthut , which being fowl and -'ibyld^ ,* is not % be made clean by wafhfng in Water, but by- throwing into the hfe. Baltazar Bomfacitts in his HifiorU Ltidicra tells of many who h?d fuch ftuff 5. A world of rare MeUds of the old Gonfuls and Emperours in filver , gold, and brafs, making divers feries. 6. A world' of wooden things, as alfo fruits, and fungi, all petrified and turned into fione ; and yet no rneta- morphojis neither , the things re- taining their priftin formes. 7., Di- vers curious Clocks , whereof one fliews the time of the day (ftrajtige) even in the night by a quadrant. 8. The little round Cabinet fat above Hike a childs drum, with a fmooth gl'afs : The Matter fetting little Ships, Coaches, &c. upon the glafs^ they


wheel and move up aS9 ~dowr> as it were of themfelves .• when all is done by a fympathetical virtue and by the Matters turning fecrctly


Of Italy. t2j a lictle wheel where there is fatten- ed fome loadflone , and the little Ships and Coaches having alfo fome piece of iron in their bottoms which touch the glafs ; and fo the iron running after the loadftone moved by the wheel , makes thefe Ships and Coaches feem to move of themfelves. 9. A piece of a thunder- bolt, which the Camn himfelf faid he had cut out of a mans thigh ftrucken with it. 10. Divers pieces of Co- ral juft as it grows in the Sea. 11. "A lirtle Pillar two handful! high of marble , fo cracked , that it gapeth wide on one fide with the crack, and yet holdeth together faft on the other fide 4 as a greac ftick of green wood cttfth, when it is bent Co farre on one fide as to gape, and yet fticks together on thtf other. 12. A. world of rich fe#^ firange /tones , cameos^ pUures , cryf- tals, little infants in -wax in glafs cafes, and taany other exotld^rari- ties, which are better feen then de- ferred.

t -u. Some Palaces here-, as that $ ome of the Governours , rather vaft then peaces,

curious,


The Caftte.


128 The Voyage curiour ; and fitter to lodge Regi- ments of Guards in, then Viceroys. The Palace of Marini is of a noble ftru&ure. That of the Archbifhop is very handfome. I fawalfo the Pa- lace of the Bcrromai painted within at the entrance, with the Mom of S. Charles, (who was of chis Family) HUM IL IT AS. Its reined in the life of this Holy Pre/ate that in twen- ty years fpice that he was Arch' bijhop and Cardinal here, he went but twice to vifit his own near Relations in this Palace, and de- fended but twice into his own Garden in his Archiepifcopal Pa- lace : fo much work found he it to play the part of an Archbijlnp well. The Palaces alfo of the Vifanti of the Sforze, of the Tr'wultU, and 1 many others, deferve to be feeh exactly.

22. The Cajile, or Citudelle, One of the belt in Europe , in the opinion of the Duke of Rohan, a competent Judge. It ftands within and without the Town, that is ar the back of the Town , like a rod

tied


Of Italy. 1*9 tied at the cbilds back, to keep him in pwe. fts garded by a Gar- rifon of five hundred natural Spa- march , with a fpecial Governour of its own, independant of the Gover- nour of Milan. 1 1 looks more like a Town than a Caflle-^ being a mile and a half about, and furnifli- ed with all conveniences a Souldier can require, The large Streets in ic- Thc ftately Houfes and Palaces for the chief Commanders; the neac Piazzas ; the number of well fur- niftied Shops in all kinds, even Goldfmiths too ; the five Fountains, or Wells, not to be dryed up 5 the Mill* the Hofpital- the Church j with eight or ten Chaplains in it, and a Cnrare; the fair place of Arms, capable of fix thoufand men; two hundred great pieces of Canon upon the walls ; the frx Royal Ba- ttions, the regular Fortifications or Outworks^ the underground way from one Baftion to another; the infinite heaps of Canon bullets, fome whereof weigh 800 pound weight j the three large and deep Ditches found about the Cattle; the {lately

Entrance,


13° The Voyage entrance Gate, and two ftronj Towers, make this Caftle one of th< moft Cavalier curiofities a man canl fee in Italy. 1 hey (hewed trie herel . the Cannon which killed /MarefkalX Cree/uy before Breme , and for that! fervice its allowed to reft here fori ever.

Thejbops. 2h The Shops of Cry ft ah, where | you have a world of curiofities in! Cryftal : as Watch-cafes, Twizer-; cafes, little Boxes, Pi&ures cut in Cry- 1 ftal, Croffes and Beads of Cry ftal.&c. \ The Shops alfo of Silk-ftockings which are hugely efteemed in Italy beetle they are twice as ftrong as ours, and j Very maflive. The Shops, in fine, of Embrodmrs , whofe embrodery in %#& and filver is the bell In the world, and the cheapelt.

24. Here is an Academy. of Wits^ called die Notfcofti^ox. Hidden men. But- why Hidden f feeing wit , like the Sun^ (houtd (bine publick- ly , and not bury it felf ^ except it. be to fhew us, that as the Sun never fhines brighter, then after he hath been hidden In a Cloud : fo Wit never (hines more, then after

ic


The A-

cademj efPVits.


Of I t a^ty. 131

hath been hidden in Study.

Iftenee was thac faying of a grave

Whilofopker, Abfconde vitam 'h^ris,

ye Hidden a while, ai.thedug 1 :he

100k. Indeed Demjihews caufed'

(is hair to be (haved off , that by

mat deformity he might beafhamed

p £0 abroad, and fo be obliged

fludy a' home. As for this

\tcadtmj , it help* much to animate

|Kth wit this great T©wn , which

therwife would look like Polyphe-

|p# (having loft his eye) great,

Dt blind. Tumor Hon eft mag'

\fudd.

25. Tbe mod famous men of this The fear- I own for learning, have been thefe: md men, \flerim Maximm for Hiftory : Al- \&tM 3 Deciw, and fa/on for Law : ytrdan for Philofophy : Panigarola^ d Paulas Arefms for Sermons; \macina for Canon Law j and Ofia- \tes Ferrarim (whom I knew lately ! Padua) for belle lettere. I26". Two other men here are fa- ^ n f [bus for other things ; to wit Vberto ^ / Vtucio, and Gulielmo Puftcrula; the J ' , ft (6 ftrong, that he could ftop a L *f? ° Q f llrfe in his full gallop uith Qms: Aim °

hand


'A JiroHg mind,


■Its Reve- nues*


Its

Strength

Its hi

ftorians*


131 The Voyage hand; Ufr up upon his back a horfe lopden with Corn-, and (land fo ftifly upon his leggs that no man, though running againft him with all his force, could pufti Mm out of his pi .ce or podure. The other wichout any learning at all , except his fM Grammar Rudiments, could with his natural wit onely , decide Law-cafes, and make fuch good Or- ders, that the beft Lawyers could not find what to add to them , or what to diminifli from them. Its piety thefe two men had not been melted into one, to have made one excellent man, by their clubbing mt and force together, and their mingling of Sana mens, with Cor- pore fano.

The Revenues that Spain draws from Milan yearly, are two millions and four hundred thou/and Crowns , befides the thirds , to which they are obliged in time of war.

This State for a need can raife , fifty thouftnd men.

He that defires to know the Hi- ftorv of MiUn, !er 'urn read Cork of the Hiftory of Milan : Ripa-

mont'ms,


Of Italy. 13$

wont us, Scipio Barbono, of the Lives of the Dukes of Milan, and PaoU Morigi. ^

Having thus feen Milan in fix dayes time , we took horfe for B 0m logna, fix da yes journey from hence, and pafled through Marignan* % Lodi , Piacenza , Parma , Regit 1 , Modetta, Fort Vrbam , and fo to Bologna ' t of each I will fay fome- thing.

Marignano is a little Town about Marig- bai miles diftant from Milan , and nam.

rom thence to Lodi the way is moft

pleafant, and level as an alley. Near to this Town Francis the firfi of France fought with the Swiffers a &mous Battle , and killed 1 6000 of them, and took Ludovicm Sforza (he Buk$of *yiilan, who thought to ' ave Fc ped in Smjfers clothes, but tvas difcovered.

Lodi is a good juft Town , and Lodi t frontier upon the Venetians, the River Adda runs under its walls. Its called Lodi , either becaufe its built upon the ruines, or near to bid Lodi, which was called Lam fomfnt, becaufe Pomfey had re-

ftored*


134 The Voyage

ftored it.' This Tovn is f mons for

excellent Ncats tongues, and Cheefes

asbigas^//W>. t A Gentleman of

this own < caufed : four ..oheefes to

be va$4%\&ch one weighing 50,0

pou id veighr. The people here rnow

then iiy three times a year* and I

am air; id they ^re powled a9 often

with Taxes.

Placenta Placenta > or Pleafance, defer ves

its name', by.resfon of its fweer fi-

tuation in a rich Country near the

Po and Trebia, two great Rivers.

Near the lafl: of which Hannibal

overcame Sempronim the Roman

Conful. The Country round ibouc

this Town, is very rich in pajlurage :

Hence their excellent Cheefes and

rare Cream. It aboundeth alfo in

Salt pits which afford no final profit.

This Town belongs to the Duke of

Parma.

hs Ra- The beft things to be feen here

rities, - are , the Equsftris flatua of the

fecond Alexander the Great , or

the fir ft Alexander of Parma. "Its in

brais in the Marker-place. The

old Fountain made by Augufim

Caftr. The rare pi&ure of Raphaels

hand


Of J T AL *.- 13 J

hand, in the Beneditlins Church behind the high Altar. The Chur- ches of the 'Dominicans , and the Cwm* Regulars are no contemtible Ones.

I obferved in this Town a no- A plf c ~$ table peece of thrifcinefs ufed by c f thrift 3 the Gentlewomen, who make no fcruple to be carried to their Countrey houfes near the Town in Coaches drawn by two Cowes yoaked together : Thefe will car- ry the Signer* a pretty round trot unto her Villa : They afford her alfo a difti of their milk, and after collation, bring her home again at night without /pending a pen- ny- He that defires to know more /£

of Ptictnza, let him read Vmfarti ffiffcfjl

Loccati.

Of PiacenxA^ where Cornelim Muf- fo y Biftiop of Bitmi, a great Preach- er, and a Trent Father; as alfo Fer- rante PalUvicini.

Parma belongs alfo to the Duke Parma$ cf Parma , of the houfe of Farnefr. This Dutchy was given to Pier ■f>ni£ farnefe by Panltu HI, upon G condition


%$$ T HlVoTACB

condition it ftiould hold of the Pope, and pay him yearly Ten thou- sand Crowns. Its worth to the DukeTwo hundred thoufand Crown?. This Town of Parma is three miles in compafs , hath the River Parma running through it , oyer which is built a handfome Stone Bridge. The Countrey round about the Town is moft fertil , and begets fuch credit to the Cheefes , th at Par- wefan Cheefes are famous over all the

World,

yj^ The Chief things Co to be feen in

Dukes Parma, arethefe, The Dukes Pal- fAlUct* l* ce * w * tn &t Gardens, Fountains, Wild Beafts , the admirable Theater to exhibit Optra's in. The exquifite Coaches df trie Duke -, one whereof is

Seats and Curtains with Gold and Silver , well gilt and adorned, that it's almoft as rich as the former. LalUy , the Stables , where I faw Horfes lutable both in ftrength and beauty to the forefaid Coaches. The Then I went to the Demo , whofe

Dorm, Cupola was painted by the rare

hand


all of beaten Silver , with the embroidered 1 •. another fo


Of I


my.


137


hand of Coreggio.

Laftly , To the Capmuts \ in The whofe Church lies buried my No- Capucins. ble Hem , Alexander Farnefe Duke Altxan- of Parma , whom I cannot meet ^ p 4r . in this my Voyage without a ne t u Compliment. He was the Third Duke of Parma , but the Tenth Worthy. Indeed his leaping theffrft man into the Turks Galleys in the Battle of Lepanto 5 with Sword in hand , and in the Eighteenth year onely of his age , was fuch a Pro- I gnoftick of his future worth ^ his re- ducing Flanders again , with the ^prodigious actions done by him at I the taking of Antwerp , was fuch a ! making good of the Prognoftick ; I and his coming into France in his \slippers and Sedan to fuccour Rouen $wk ibeueged by Henry the IV , was fuch Critic ks a crowning of all his other actions, hold I that his Hiftory begets belief to S*tintus. ^uintM Curtius , and makes men Curtiiu believe , that Alexanders can do any t9 be a thing. R.o%Ace~ %

The Revenues of this Prince The are faid to be Six hundred thouj and Dukes 1 Crowns a year. He is now of theRevewe 1 G i) French


reft.

His For ces. TheA-


138 T.he Voyage French Faction ; and in all his Territories he can rayfe 28000 • men,

Here is an Academy pr\ Wits cal- led the Innominate as they that cademyof^i rather be wife, then be talked Wits. of, or famed for fuch.

This Town hath furnifhed Italy

with two excellent Painters, Corn-

gio^ and P armigianol

Its Hifto- He that would know the particular

rj. Hiftory of Parwa t let him read Bo-

navtntnra. Arrighi. Regt*. from Parma we went to Regie, a

Town belonging to the Duke of Modena : Here is a neat Cathedral* Church, of which Church S. Prober was Bifhop. Of this 1 own were thefe three learned men, Guido Pan- cirtla, Cardinal 7e/&* and fnarlinj

Cafielvetro. Modena. Modena is the Town where the Duke keeps his Court. Its a hand- fome Town, and by its high Steeple fhews it felf to Travellers long be- fore they come to it. It hath alfo a ftrong Cittadel, which lying flat and even with the Town , (heweth the Town , that indeed it can be

even


Of I


T A L Y.


139


even with it, whenfocvcr it (hall re- bell.

The Palace of the Duke hath fome rooms in it as neat, and rich, as any Ifaw in ifaly^ witnefsthofe Chambers hung round with the PiSure of thofe of his Family, and wainfcbted with great Leokjng-glajfes and rich gilding.

This Duke is of the Family ofEfte, xheFa» but; not of the true Line : Wherefore m Uy f for want of lawful Heirs male, Fe r- £fl St rara and Commachio fell to the Church in Clement the VIII. time, and remain there ever Once.

Of the true Houfe of Efte, was Q ounte f s the brave. Cmnttfs Matilda , the j^ a tilda» dry-Nnrfe , as I may fay, of the Roman Church. For it was file de- fended Gregory ths VII. againlttha Emperour Henry the VI,, and brought him to acknowledge his fault , and cry the Pope mercy. It was (he alfo that by will and Teslament left the Pope, Parma, Rcgio^ Man- tna y and Ferrara. Hence Vrbatt tbe VI II , out of gratitude to this Princefs caufed her Statue and Tomb to be fet up in S. Peters Church

in


14° The Voyage

in Rome. The Will and Teftament

of this Princcfs are kept in Lucca to

this day.

The lafl Hard by Modena was fought the

true Con-. famous Battle , where Hirtius and

fuls. Panfa being Confuls , the Senate loft

in them its Authority. Its Lear- Of Modena were thefc famous ft Men. Men in Learning , Cardinal Sad&- letus^ Carolus Sigontut , and Gabriel Falopius.

In Modena are made the beft Vifards for Mafcarades ^ and its no fmal] profit which they draw from this foolifh Commodity 3 feeing Stul~ tor um plena funt omnia

The Revenues of this Bulte are Three hundred thoufand Crowns a year • and he is now of the French Fa^ion. He can raife 3 0000 men.

From thence paffing the River we came foon to Fort Urban , a Cit- tadel mod regularly built by the Command of Pope Vrban the PHI. from whom its called. Its fo flrong, that it is not afraid to ftand , night and day alone in the fields , and upon the Frontiers of the Popes Eftate. Paffing from hence th-iough

Cafitk


The * Dukes Reve- nues. HUJtt- tereft.


Fits For ret. Tort Vrban.


Of Italy. 141

Caftel Franco , anciently called F<r Cafiel rum Gallorttm , we arrived betimes franco. at Bologna.

Bologna is one of the greateft Bologna, Towns of Italy , and one of the handibmtft. Its the fecond of the Poper Dominions ; and the Chief Univerfity of Italy for La* Hence the Jurifts fay it is Mufarum domu4 t at que omnit nutricuia Juris , - and the very common Coyn of the Countrey tells you that Bononia (fa- cet.

Its named s by the Common Pro- verb , Bologna lagrafa ; becaufe of the fcrtilfoyl in which it (lands 5 to wit , in the very end of Lombard] ; and the many fprings which hume6fc it from the Apnnin hills 3 at whofe feet if Hands.

This Countrey was anciently cal- led Feljtna , Gallia Cifalpina , Gallia 7 ' ogata , to diftinguifh it from Gal" lia Br ace at a , the Countrey in Yranee near Narbonne , and from Gal" lia Comata , the Countrey in France called La Guitnne. In Middling Ages it was called Romagmla , becaufe Bologna , Ravtnna , Cedent , Forli, G iv Fafnza 9


  • 4 2 The V oy a e i

T teniae and /wo/^ftood conftant to the City of Rome againft the Lorn- lards for along time. Thl As for the Town of Bologna now,

Town it its excellently well built, and for filf* the moft part upon arches , like the Covtnt Garden in London • only the pilars are round. Thefe arches bring great conveniency to the Inhabi- tants, who can walk all the Town over cool and dry, even in fuly and January, Its five mile in compafs, and an excellent Sommer Town, were it not that the ayre is not alto* . gether fo pare , and the wines heat- Jtt Go~ ing. Its governed by a Legat 4 wrnment Latere , fent hither by the Pope, and in change, ic fends an ■ Embaf- fadour to Rome to refide there : id that Bologna is treated by Rome, ItsPri- rather like a Sifter, than a Sub- tsttedges, jett; and defervedly^ feeing Bologna fell not to the Church any other way but by her free giving her felf to the Pope •, referving only to her felf fome particular Priviledges , as power to fend Embaffadors to Rome ; and that if any Townf- mm kilt anoche*, andean but e-

fcape


Of I t a £ y. i-43

rape away, his goods cannot be con-

fifcared.

• I ftaid fix d ayes here, in wjiich

time I faw thefe things.

I. The Dominicans Church and The Do- Convent. In the Church , I faw the minkans Tomb of \S. Dominic^ Founder ot that Church, Order., Its all of Wto Marble cut with curious Figures relating to his Life. In this Chnrch is kept a Fa- mous Manufcript T to wit, the 2We it felf written in Parchment by £/- ^J himfeif, faith Leandro Alberto the Cambden of /m/jt , and a .Fr/- <«r of this Convent. They (hew you alfo here a Curious X^wp fent to St. Dominickj Tomb by the new converted Indians. Its of a mod rare workmanfhip. ; Behind the high Altar (lands the £uire fo famous for the Setts, which, are of a rare Mofaict^ Work of Coloured -#W i

inlatd into Pictures reprefenting the O/^and Nw Tejlaments , and all wrought by one Lay Brother called jFra, Damiano di Bergamo. This kind of Mo§aickJVorh in Wood was an- ciently (faith Vafari) called Tar- fi* , and in this kind ot Work G v Brw


144 Tui Voyaci Brunellefchi and Maiano did good 1 things in Florence. Bat 7^* ^™- «£ improved it much afterwards, by boiling Wood into feveral co- lours s and then inlaying it into what Peftures and Figures he pleafed. This Quire is (hewn to Strangers a* a rare thing r and worthily ' fince the Emperour Charles the V. had ihe curiofity to fee it r , and with the point of his Dagger to try whether It were inlaid , or oncly painted ; and the piece which he picked 1 out with his Daggtt • , was never put in again for a Memorandum. In this Church t ar alfo in the Chapterhoufe 9 and Cloifier of this Convent^ lie bu-

ried many Readers of the Zaw , who having lived here bytheZ<«n> y died here alio by the Law ef Na- ture. The Do- 2. The Convent here is one of minicans the fair eft in Europe, in which 150 Convent. Friars constantly live and ftudy. The Tittle chappel ", which was once S. Deminicks Chamber -, the vaft Dormitory- •, the. fair Library^ the. great Refetlory , and the curi- ous Cellar are fhejvn courteoufly

to


Of Italy. I45

E* Grangers.

5. The Nunnery of Corfu* Chrifti. Its of S. Core's Order, and famous for the body of Beata Catherina di The Body Bologna a moft holy Nun of this Or- of Beata der and Convent. I faw her Body fit- Catheri* ting ftraight up in a Chair, in her Re- »* < ligious Habit: She holds her Rules in her right hand ; and we fee her face and/rc* plainly , but thofe black and dried up.

4. From hence I went on to the The Ctr* Town Gate, a little out of which fa Gate lies a fair Street where they

make the Corfo of Coaches in Sum- mer Evenings.

5. Turning from hence on the

left hand , I went to S. Michael in S. Ml" Bofco a Stately Monaftery of Olive chad n tan Fathers , ftanding upon a high Bofco.\ Hill From this Hill I had a per- fect view of Bologna under me, and of all the Councrey about it ; which being level and ftrowed w'th a world of white Houfes and Villas y looked like a Sea loaden with Ships under fail. Entring into this M - naftery , I faw the Oval Court pant- ed by feveral Prime Matters', of G'vT which


t^6 Thi Voyage which G»i&Q Rheni ol Bologna was one. Then ^mounting up to the Dormitory , I found it to be one of the faireft I had ever feen. Other 6. The Monastery , or Convent of

finitely the Frwcifcans , with the rare row Mwh$* of PiUart , and JVfcVo towards the ptt. " ' Street, the excellent Cloifters, and the curious Cellar,

7. The Monaflery of St. S4/- v4Wy# with its two vaft Courts or dou- ble C/o^r built upo^Galleries above, its a Noble Building.

g. The Mmaftery of the Servits r

lhatof the Auguflins , and that of

the Carmelites ?, are all of themfucfr

Stately Buildings , that I may boldly

fay ,, that no Town in Europe is

comparable to Bologna for fair Mo~

nafleries.

S.Petro- 9. Then I vifited San Tetronk,

nio's {tending in the end of the great Pi-

Church tzza ,. of which Church Leandro

Alberto, writ a hundred years ago r

th&r he thought it would not be

en(fcdbut with the Worldsend. And

lam half of his opinion : for when

I pafled that waylaft, I found the

Siaffolds yet {tending, which I had


V-»


Of Italy. "147

found there one and twenty years before ; and yet in all my five Voy- ages into Italy , I found them al- wayes kocking and making as muck noife and duft , as if this Church ftiould be finiftied within half a year, i when as yet half of it is onely finiih- ed. In this Church Charles the V. was crowned Eniperom by Clement the VII.

10. The Bomo , which is not yet The D+ hal f finifhed neither : yet that which mQi

is finifhed , promifeth fair for the reft.

11. The New Church of S. Paul Other hath a curious High Altar. In the Churches* Church of S. Giovanni in Aforte is

the rare Picture of 5. Cecily of the . hand of Raphael Vrbin. The fefuits Churchy the Church of S.Stephen, and that of the Pafficn deferve to be fecn.

32. After the Churches and Mcria- jfo £ f : &erie? , we went on with vifitingthe aa ts Pa* reft of the Town and faw the % fCm Wallace of the Popes Legate : in this Palb.de I faw tjhe rare Cabinet and Stndy of Aldrovandus • , to whom Pliny the Second if he were now

alive»


'jildro- vandus


ksntt*


I48 ThI V O T A C I

alive, would but be Plinj tbt Sixth • for he bach printed fix great Vo- lumes of the natures of all things in his Study nature- each Volume being as big

  • ndCa- at-all P links Works. They (hewed

me here two or three hundred Manufcripts , all of this mans own hand-writing , and all of them Notts out of the Seft Author* ; out of which Notts he compiled his fix great Volumes which are now in print. Seeing thefe Manufcripts^ Tasked whether the man had lived three hundred years , or no , as its fiid foannes dt Ttmporibtss in Charles the Grtats time did; but it was anfwered me 5 that he lived onely fourfcore and three : afliorc age for fuch a long. Work : but it fheiveth us how far a man may travel in Sciences in his life time^ if he rife but betimes , and fpur on all his life time with obftinate labour. Certainly hud- he wrote before Salomons time , Salomon would have changed his fiying, and infteid of fending, the flothful mm to karn of the P'tfmire how to labour , h t would have fenr him

to


ALY. 14?

his Study and Fade ad Aldrovandum


Of li

CO Aldrovandm Example : piger.

1 sJThe Great Sckoots here where T^ the Do&ors of the Univerfity read, School/,. are (lately both within, and with- out.

14. The Spanifi CoUedge founded The Spa* hereby noble Cardinal Alfarnozzo,. nijh C*t~ deferves to be taken notice of. ledge* Its well built, with a handfome Church , and five Priefts to ferve it. The intention of hisColfedge is to furniftiall the King of Spaines Dominions in Italy with able Magi- strates and Officers of Juftice None can live in it but Natural Spani- ards ( except the Chaplains) and' thofe Spaniards muft be Do&ors of the Law before they can be ad- mitted here: they onely learn the language and Cuftoms of the coun* tryes, and perfect themfelves in the ftudy of the Law, that they may be fit to fill up the firft vacant places of Judicature that fall either in the Stare of Milan , in the King- dome of Naples, or in Sicily- They have a revenue of twelve thou/and

irtmn


>J *


The Mo ToTvrsl


150 The Voyage

eroyvns a yeas. They keep two Coaches , live very nobly , and lodge all Sfanijh Embaffadours t Cardi- nals , and Pre/at* of their Nation that paffe this way. In the Qdledge you fee the Pi&ures of many great Statefmen and Cardinals , and others s . who have been of this Cel/edge : but no Pi&ure pleafed me like that of their brave Founder , Noble Car- dinal Alfornozzo, which is in the Church , and reprefenting him Ln the fame pofture he was in , when he re- covered all the Pb^x State in July, unto the Pepe then at Avignon • of which I have fpoken fufficiently above in defcribing Avignon.

15. The two Tdtyers here in the midft of the Town , the one very high and ftraight, called , De gli Afinelli ; the other lore and bending , called, La Carifenda. They would make us beleeve that this bending Tower was made crooked a purpofe -, and its ftrange to fee how moftmen make it their buiinefs rather to fee this low crooked Tower r than the other , which is both Higher, and ftraighter. But there's

BQft


Of Italy. *5* no Mattery to make things ill , and to miffcjof ourairaes ; and I rather thinke the Caritfenda or low Tower 9 went not tip higher , becaufe the Architect perceived it went up a- wry. But we Grangers admire every thing in ftrange Countreys, and that makes that none admire us ; Upon which occafion I would wifli my young Traveller never to admire any thing in outward fhew : but to look curiouQy at every thing with- trying out , O che RelaCofa ! This will get him and his Nation farr more honour 9 for 'Admiration is but the Daughter of Ignorance ; and Magnanimm , (faith Ariftotle) nihil admiratur.

Then the Houfis here ; which Ths are generally Well built , and in fjottfes m Summer time , letting open their Bologna. Dores and Gates towards the Street, you may look quite through their Courts, Entries, Porches, Houfes, and a huge way into their Gardens, which even- from thence , will falute your eye with dainty Perfpectives , Foun- tains, and frefh Verdure-, and your Nofe too with curious Smells of

Jefrain,


The No- bility.


  • S 2 The V o y ag i.

Jefmin.and Orenge flowers, as they did mine often, Now the belt Pal- laces here are thofe of AUtvcXAt,

Campeggi, Vepoli^ Fachinetti, Cefpi, and others.

1 7. Thefe fine Houfes are full al- fo of Nobility , and I remember to have feen here at a Corfo di Vaglh upon Midfommer day the long great ftreet lined quite through with coa- ches on both fides,and thofe coaches double lined with Ladies and Cava- liers of Garbo. Indeed it would be pity , that fuch a ftately town as Hologna, (houldlike Lejden in Hol- land , be full onely of Hanfes and Ssren.

18. Their 7r4^here conftftetb Traffck. muchinfilks, velvets, olives,Ieather

bottles, gelliei,wafli balls, and little doggsfor Ladyes, which here are Co little,thatthe Ladyes carrying thctn in their muffs, have place enough for their hands too.

1 9. Their Markets here are aho M*rh§ts. exquifitly good for all provifions of

mouth, witnefs their Salficci onely which are a regak for a Prince.

20. But


Th


The


Of Italy. 153 2<x But that you may not think The A- them better fed , than taught ; they cadenty have erefted here an Academy of of wit s wits \ called Gli Otiofi , or , Idle- mtn j by a Figure of Rhetoric!^ called a Zie , or , per antiphrafin , be- caufe they are sot idle. Its this Academy (I believe) which hath helpt to fet out three rare Modern Writers of this Town , Cardinal The Bentivoglio , the Marquis of Mai- Learned ve^zi % and John Bapttfia Manzini^ Men, the firlt, the Titus Livius of his age, the fecond , the Lucius Florus of his age ; and the third , the Marcus Tulliiu of his time. To whom I may add Leandro Alberti , the Camdm of Italy.

21. He that defires to know the TheJ$' particular Hiftory of Bologna Jet him a or; ^ read Bartholomeo Galeotti , and Gio' va»niGarz,o, where he fliallfind how Bologna fuffered much anciently by the two oppofite Factions of the LambartauzX and the Geremei. But now they enjoy quiet and repofe un* dcr the Pope.

Having thus feen Bologna , and being armed with a Bolettina dd

Sanita %


ler.


TheA-

fenniitc

Bills.


154 The V o Y AG e

'&tmt*ft Sanita , taken here , to make us be berthis let paffe into the State of Fh- Bolettina rence . we fleered on horfe-back Travel- towards Florence , and reacht it in two dayes, The tirft dayes. journey by Pianora , Loiano , S-cargo, & A- zino , Pietra Mala , and over the Apenmns , was long and tedious enough , till the Night came t at which time we were much recrea- ted with the fight of a Fire which appeared fome two miles off in the fide of a Mountain on our left hand. This Fire appears here frequently , efpecially in cloudy weather : andic appeared to me for an hour toge- ther as I r6de along, to be ftill of |he fame bignefs y and of the fame gtowy colour (fornaceTike) and or a perfect round form , and not py- ramidal, as other flames are. The Countrey People here call this Fire y La Bona d' Inferno , Hells Month ; and I know not why they may not as well call chis Fire fo , wTertul- lian calls Vefuvim and JEttta (two- l.dc Pee- Burning Mountains) FummoU In- nitent. c. f er ni % Bells Chimneys. Taken in I2 » fine , with this fixed Meteor , we

forgo?


Tertul.


Of Italy, 155

forgot the redioufnefs of the way Fioren« 

and came to Fioren^uola. The next.^^ Morning] pa fling by Scarper ia and // tome- we arrived betimes at Flo- rence.

1 confefs, I ftirred hot out of my Mi arr ;~ Inne that Night, becaufr fair Florence V al at (as the PrOverb calls her) is not to Florence* oe feen tin foul Linnen and Riding Boots : but getting up betimes the next Morning , I gave my eyes fuch a Breafcfaft as Princes eyes would be glad to feed upon.

But before I come to the particulars of what I faw in Florence , I will con- fider it in great 3 and then come to the Retail of it.

EHvers good Authors are of opi- Florence. nion that this Town was flrft built by Sola's Soldiers , to whom he had given this Soyle for their Services done him in his Civil Wars. They built it near the Current of two Rivers ( Arm and Mtmio) and from thence it was called at hrft Flucn- tia (as Coblentxj in Germany •, from the meeting of Rivers , is called Conflaertia.) Afterwards by the In- habitants it was called Florentia ,

by


X^6 The Voyacb by reafon of the fruitful foy! which made it fiourifli with all delicacies ; as alfo for the flouriftiing wits of the Inhabitants , who were fo famous antiently in point of wit , that the very Romans ufed to fend their Chil- dren firft into Toftany , to be bred in Learning and Religion , and then in- to Greece > to learn Greek, and Philo- fophy.

Having enquired the Name of this Town % I began to defire its bet- ter acquaintance , and attained it ea- fily in a Monethsfpace which Ifpent here : The things I obferved moft were thefe : ~*the 1. The Chappel of S. Laurexcs,

r Chappel which is the neateft thing that ever of St. eye beheld All the infide of it is to Laurence] be over-crufted with fa/per Srones, of feyeral Colours and Countreys , with other rich Stones , ail above Marble , and all fo neady polifbed and (hining, that the Art here ex- ceeds the Materia. This Chappel is round , and round about are to be fixed within the walls , as high as a man can reach , the Tombs of all the Great Dftkfs of Florence , in


Of Italy. 157

a moll gallant manner , and of moft exquifite poliflied Stones , with a great Cujbim of fome richer Stone , and a Ducal CroVott of Pretious Stones repofing upon that Cujhion. Over thefe Tombs the Statues of all the Great Dukes , at full length, and in their Ducal Habits , all of Brafs gilt , are to be placed in Niches round about the Chappel. The Roof is to be Vaulted all over With an over^crufting of Lapis La* Kuli (a blew pretious Stone with Veins of Gold in it) which will make it look like Heaven it felf. Between each Tomb are inlaid in the Walls , the Arms , or Scutchions of the fe- veral Towns of the Great Dukes Dominions , all blazoned according to their feveral Colours in Heraul- dry, byfeveral pretious Stones which compofe them : and thefe are not made in little , but are fair great Scutchions made purpofely of a large fize for to fill up the void places between the Tombs. The Towns are thefe ; Florence ,- Siena, Pifa, Livorno^ Valtzrra^ An^no , Piftoia ,


Certona , Monte Puhiano


&c. which


158 The V.OYACI which contributed ( I fuppofe ) fomething each of them to this Coftly Fabrick. In fine , this Chappel is fo rich within with its own fliining bare walls , that it fcorns all Hang- ings , Painting , Gilding , Mofaick Work , and fuch like helpers off of bare Walls , becaufe it can find no- thing richer and handforner than its own pretious Walls. Its now above threefcore years fince it was be- gun ^ and there are ordinarily threefcore men at work daily here, and yet there's onely the Tomb of Ferdinand the Second perfectly 6- niflted. The very Cufbion which Iieth upon his Tomb s coft Three- fcore thoufand Crowns , by which you may guefs at the reft. Indeed thefc (lately Tombs make alraoft death it telf look lovely , and dead mens afhes grow proud again. As for the Altar and Tabernaeleof this Chappel , I wiH fpeak of them by and by , when I will defcribe the Gallery of the Great Duke , where they are kept till the Chappel be finiftied. 2. The Church of S. Lanrence y

J?


. of Italy. 159

which belongs to this Chappel ^ or The rather to which this Chappel be- Church longs ; is a very handfom Church de- of S. Lo- figned by Brunellifchi himfelf. I he retiKo* things that grace this Church arc the neat double-row of round pil- lars which hold up the roof of this Fabrick. The Pidnre over the Quire painted in the Roof, repre- fenting the general Judgment. Its a bold Piece , and of Pontorno : The two Brazen Pulpits wrought 1 into Hiftories by rare Donatello • "he curious defigned Picture of S. Anne and our Blejjed Lady , in chiaro e ofcuro , by Fra. Bartolo- meo % commonly called Del Frate, is fo weii a defigned Piece, that a Duke of Mantua having ken it, offered to buy it at any rate, but was refu- ted. The new Sacrifly ( made to ferve the fine Chappel defcribed above) deftrves to be carefully vi- fitid, becaufe of the bodies of the Princes of the Family of Medices, I which are depofitated here , till the Chappel mentioned above be finifhed. In this new Sacrifly alfo are feen the four Statues made by H Michad


ISO T HE VoY AG E

Michael Angela , representing the Day, the Night, Aurora , ? nd the Evening ; the four parts which, compofe Time 5 by which all Men are brought to their Graves : That which reprefents Night is a rarq ftatue , and hugely cryed up by alii Sculptors and Virtmfi. See alio \n\ the Wall of the old Sacrifiy the; neat Tombe of John and Peter Me-] dices fons of Cofmns , firnamcd Pater Patria ; Its- the work of Andrea Varochio. In the rnidft of j this Church, before the High- Altar A lies buried Cofmns Pater Patriae A the raifer of the Medicean Family. Jn the Ckifier joyning to this Churches erected the Statue of Pau- las fovitu the Hiftorian ; and near to this Statue you mount up a pair of j The Li- Stairs to the rare Library of Manual bran* fcripts called Bibliotheca LaurentiaA na, the Catalogue of whofe Books is j printed at Awflerdam An. 1622, in O&avo. The mat 3- The Gallery of the old Fallace. Duk[s T^is;s that Gallery to famous, and fo Gallery. frequently vifited by a/1 Strangers. At your entrance into this Gallery 3 \

you j


Of I


TALY,


161


you fee a Vaft long Room made like an L : on the left hand of this Gallery , there runs a perpetual glafs window • on the other fide are fet a row of Pi&uresin great,of thofe of the Medic ean Family : under the windows, and alfo un- der the faid Pidures ftand a row of curious Marble Statues , ancienc ones all, and of prime hands. Over the faid windows and Pictures runs a clofe row of left Pi&ures, repre- fenting to the life the molt famous men of later times for learning and Armes ; the Sonldiers being on the right hand , and the Schol- lefs on the left. The Statues afore- faid are well nigh a hundred in all , but all rare ones : Some whereof I yet remember, and they are thefe : That of Leda , of Diana, of Bac- chus, of Hercules of the Gladiator Handing on his guard, of Scipti Africanus in Brafs, (hewing the ancient habit and drefs of the old Romans , farr different from our modes t that of a little young youth ' in brafs , with his Sword in his hand : that of a little ky fl.ee fing upon a H i ] touchflone :


i6z The Voy ag e

touchfione : The head of Cicero in marble.- that of Seneca: the Head of Michael Angeh Bonarota in Brafs, of his own hand making : in fine, the head of Brutus one of Ca- fars murderers ; It was begun in Mar- ble by Michael Angelo^wi informed- ly •, and fo left by him : If you will know the reafon why he finished ic not, read the diftich written in Brafs under this head by the faid fculptor himfelf, thus : M. Dum Bruti efjigiem Sculptor A.

de marmore ducit,

B. In mentem feeler is Venit , C^* F.

abttinuit.

P'Mures The four corner letters fignifying

of famous tnaC 'Michael Angeltu Bonarota

Soldiers. f ec ic f Among the Pictures, I took

particular notice of thefe Souldiers,

of Hannibal that frighted Rome :

of Scipio that took Carthage and

vanquifhed Hannibal: of Pjrrhm

that made the Romans glad to make

peace with him : of Scanderhg chat

made the QJreat Turk^ afraid to

fight with him ; of V*nerim that

helpt to win the battel of Lepnta :

of Alexander Farmfe that never loft

battel :


of Italy. 163

battel-,of Carte fins that found out new Countryes: Of Magellanus that found out new Seas : of Andrea T^Qria who beat the French by Sea: of Gabion de Foix who had beat the Spaniards by Land if he had but known how to ufe his Vi&ory : of the Dtik^ of Aha, who onely la- * men ted denying that he had never fought a pitch'd Battel with the Irttrkjrof Anne de Montmorency ;who dying, was glad to die in a pitch'd Battel againft the Hugonots ; of Ecce- lino the Paduan Tyrant, of whom no man can Speak any good • of Caftru- cio of whom no man can fpeak any ill ; with a world of other brave He- roes, with whofe true lookes I was very glad to be acquainted. Among p ,„ the Pictures of the learned Men I VT^ took particular .notice of thefe °K !^ rn " Italians, to wit, Petrarch , Aricfte , e ' en * Joannes Cafa, Poggio, Macchiavel , Gmcciardin, Panto fcvio, Sanna- zario , Bccaccio , Platina , Brunei- lefchi , Michael Angelo , Raphael ZJrbin, Columbia \ Americm , and Galileo, With many others too long to relate , and too many to be re- H iij membred.


1^4 The Voyage mcmbred. Having thus gazed our fill at thefe ft at ues and pictures, and by particular taking notice of them , complimented the great worthies they reprefent , we were let into the great Cabinets , or Chambers which, joyn upon this Gallery. The Ar- M* , we ^ aw tne Armory \ morj. that is, three or four great cham- bers full of exotick curiofities : as , the habits of two Indian Kings made of Parrats Feathers fowed to- gether : the Habits of fome fanijfa- ties in Turkey , of red Velvet fee thick with little nailes ot gold, which they can take out and drefs up Other futes with : the habit of the King of China : the skin of a horfe parted upon a woodden horfe , the mane of which horfe is kept there in a box ail at length, and it is above five ells long; This horfe had been fent to the Great Duke by the Duke of Lorrain. Then we were fhown Hamiibals Helmet : the Helmet of Charles the V - y the fVcord of Henry the IV of Trance ; a curious Helmet thin and light, and yet of Musket proof - } a huge

heavy


Of Italy. 1 6$

heavy Helmet and Sword of one of the old Paladins of France • the true frvord of Scattderbeg , a world of Cimetars , (cabards , m£t, (addles , and other Turklfh furniture fee thick with Tursfuoifes in gold ; a great G*«\ whofe thick barrel 15 of pure Gold , and yet as long zs an ordinary fowling piece, and as heavy as a ftrong man can well level with: irs valued at 15 o pi- flols , and (hoots twice as fan? as anoiher Gun of Iron doth , buc kills ( I believe ) with the Time pain that others do , though with a little more honour. Here is a great piftol of gold. Then the bm»a nette, or fet of piftds t (five piftol barrels fet together in an iron Frame) CO put into your hat, and to be all fhot offa t once from thence , as you feem to fdute your enemy and bid him Good night. The piftol with eighteen barrels in it, all to be (hot oft at once, and fcattering defperatly about a Roome , fix little cannons fcz in llarr-wife. The little Brafs Cannon which may be taken in pieces prefently, and fet together H n\j as


1 66 The Voy age

as foon, and fo be carried eafify into any Steeple , or Tower .- fuch Cannons as thefe might eafily be carryed in deep Countryes, and over liigh Moantains, every Souldier car- rying a Piece. The Statue in Brafs of the King of Spain, Philip the Fourth on Horfeback, juft of the brightnefsof that of Gold which the Great Duke fent to the fa id King of Spain for a Prefent ; It was made by rare John di Bologna. Then I fiw the Armour for Horfe and man of two Kings of Ferjia. The armour of the Great Duke Ferdinand, a goodly man. T he King of Swedes Cornet taken in Germany in a Battel. The buckler with the Medufas head on it, painted by Michael Angib. A Tnt\t\fb Bell to ring in time of Battel. A home afed in Turkey to call men to their Moskjes in ftead of Bells 3 as we have. The head of a Halbard ringing like a Bell. A Halbard to fould up in three , and to carry under your Cloak privately. A ftaffof a white Cane, .in which are curioufly engraven in black, the

Hi/lories




of Italy. i6j

hiftories of the Apocalipfe. It was the Dttks °f Vrbins. In fine, the Loadftone holding up threefcore pound weight of Iron, and holding one key to another, for a matter of five or fix keyes.

After the Armory, we were let in- to the five Cabinets full of precious Jewels, Pictures, and other rare cu- riofities. In the failCabinet I was fliown a curious Candleftick^ to The i. hang up in the middle of a Room , Cabinet. with feveral branches fpreading from it t and all of yellow Amber y including within it a world of lirde figures of white Marble or Waxe > neatly cut ia little , • and appearing through the tranfparent yellow am- ber ; This Candleflick^ was gfven by the Dfickfs of Lwebourg , to the Duke of Saxony , and by him to Prince Mathias brother to this Great Dftke of Florence. In the fime Cabinet I faw a Table of po- lifhed ftones of feveral colours and !uftre,inlay'd into JHrds and Flowers. The head of Tiberius Cafar in one Tftrkj Jione, as big as a Ducks egg y and of an ineilimable value. A cu- H v rious


i68 The Voyage rious Cabinet, or two, of Ivory cup brought out of Germany by Prince Matthias. In the fame Cabinet I faw the pidnre of Cardinal Betnbo in a neat Afofaickytork ; and an other piece of divers Birds in Mofaick alfo t rarely done by Marcellus Provincia- te,. I faw alio there divers little old Pagan Idols in Iron and Brafs, a de- (ign of Raphaels own hand ; and fome good Pictures.

In the fecond Cabinet I faw two great Globes ■, which were made in this roome, being too great ever to be carryed out, or brought into it by th^ The 2. door. I faw alfo here a curious Cabinet. Table of polifhed ftones reprc fenting a Town in Bohemia , with divers piftures of Men, Horfes, and Lindskips; where there is a Tree reprefented molt naturally, becaufe it is reprefented by the very wood of a tree Petrifyed into ftone , and looking like wood as it was •, and fhining like po'ifh'd ftone \ as it now is. 1 he flatties, or bnfto's of three or four of the Great Da^es, in Porphyry. A curious looking glafs over the infideof the door, which

placed


Of I


T A L Y.


l6p


placed directly over the picture of a man., contracts into it the pi&ure of a woman (that mans wife; which you fee plainly in it : drawing thus Eve oue of Adamzgun by a curious re- flexion.

In the third Cabinet I was fiiowaa curious table of polifh'd flones repre- fenting perfectly the Town and Ha- ven of Ligome. A great Cabinet of Ebony befet with precious flones The 3? on the oucfide, and with the Hifto*- Cabintt, ry of the holy Scriptures curioufly expreffed in miniature in feVeral little fquares of rich (tones fet here and there. In the top of it there is a German Clocks, now out of or- der, and no man dare mend ir. Within this great Cabinet I faw the pajfion of our Saviour curioufly cut by Michael Angelo in Ivory ( fty they ) but I believe its in wfiice Waxe. There is alfo in it the figures of our Saviour and his twelve Af- files in yellow amber, wkh then; heads in white amber : All thefe fe- veral Pieces are not Ccen at once'


but


into fight one after


come up x another, as the man turns them.

This


The tyh.

Cabinet.


170 The Voyage

This Ebony Cabinet was fcnt to the Great Duke by the Duke of Bavaria , and its valued at fourfcore thoufand Crownes : I believe, if it were to be fold, it would not yield forty thou- fand Crownes; but its handibme faith Seneca^ for thofe that receive courtefies , to value them iiigh. Here arealfo fome Pi&ures of great value, as the Adam and£w of the hand of Albert L o Dureo, an Original Piece, valued at 1500 Crowns. An- original Venus of Titian, that in the Toggio Jmperialehert (of which be- low) looking but like a good coppy of this. Here are alfo feveral Per- fan Chairs, and other good Origi- nals of "prime hands. In the 4th Cabinet,called // Trihmo % we faw more riches then in ali the •others. This Tribuno is a great Room built round with a Cupola ^ whofe vault is painted with a deep fanguirf red. fet full with the (hells of Mother of Pearl. The wall's of this Room a"ehung with green (ilk, and loaden with excellent Pictures of t' e prime Maftersofthe World,77/M», Raphael, Andrea del o4rtd, Vinci ,

Hans


of It


A L Y,


Hans Holbain , Vandike and others. The S. John Baptifi is of Raphaels hand ; as is alfo that of Leo the X. with two Cardinals, Julio Medici^nd Cfirdinal Rojfi behind him. The Picture of Southml Privy Coun- fellor to Henry the Fill, is of the hand of rare Hans Holbain, The Picture of our Lady with our Savi- eur in her armes, is of the hand of Andreo del Sarte. The Picture of Cardinal Bentivoglio fitting in a Chair, is of the hand of Vandike- There is alfo a rare Picture in mi- niature of Giidio Gloria's hand, and three fair pieces in miniature of an jingu$in Friar yet living, and a man of great efteem 5 having taken the right courfe to be famous, that is, to make but few Pieces , but thefe fini(hed with all the pitience which miniature requires. In this tribuno I faw alfo the famous Nayle half geld, half lnn % made by the famous Alchimifi Thurnheufer. They (hewed me alfo a great lump of Gold, not yet (lamped into ( t yn^ two (hells of Mother cf I earl with their, two Pearls (till (licking to

thern


17* The Voyage them, and juftasthey grow: The Pearls are rich Pearls and round. The two pieces of Emweraud-rock., the one fcarce formed yet into- per- fect Emmeraud, but onely begun .• the other quite finifhed and green. Then two clofe cupbords within the walls of this Room , in which I faw a world of curious £ups and Vafes of Crjftal , Agate , Lapis Lazuli, and other fuch curious, but b:ittle matter, yet of nre fa- brick a^nd fhape ; They value chem at two hundred thoufand Crowns. The Voicorns hsrfte 9 and the Ala- bafler Pillar are not to be forgotten, The great Cabinet of Ebeny (land- ing at the further end of this Tritbuno, full of ancient Meddals of Gold Silver and Brafs of the ancient Confuls and Emperors , all digefled into their feveral feries ; and yet this Cabinet is almoft as rich with- ou6, as it contains riches witlnn • being Ctt without with precious f tones of a vaft bignefs and value; to wit, a Saphir as broad as a twenty Shillings piece, and half an inche thick j a Ruby full as great, but farr

richer


Of Italy. *7J

richer • an cmmeraud not inferiour to the reft •, a pearl as big as an ordi- nary willnuc • a world of Dia- monds and, other letter ftones , but all of (o great value, that this Ca- binet , with that which is in it , is valued to be worth five hundred thoufmd Crowns. Laitly, I faw here the great round Table made of inlaid precious ftones polifhed neat- ly ; a table able to make the moft hungry ftomack forget its gmmb- ino to feed its eyes upon the tm- roafoed birds which together with curious flowers compofe. this admi- rable table ; Pearles y Rubies* Sa- phirs. Cornelians, Emwerauds-, La- Vis Lazuli, dec are employed here artificially to the making of thefe birds and flowers. You'i conceive bet- ter of this Table, when / (hall tell you, that its worth a hundred thou- fmd Crowns, and that it was fif- teen years in making, and yet thirty men wrought at it dayly. In the midft of it is the great Bait of the Armes of the Duh or Florence in pretious ftones.

The 5. Cabinet {landing at the The $.

fur- Cabinet.


174 The Voyage

further end of this Gallery, contain- er h the Altar and Tabernacle , which are to be fee up in the new Chanel ef S. Laurence defcribed above. Having viewed them fix feveral times exactly (as I did ) you will perchance be of my opini- on , that this Tabernacle made for to keep the Bleffed Sacrament in , is able, or, nothing is able, to make amends in fome fore, to our Sa- viour for his courfe lodging in Bethlehem , when he \vas born in a ft able and lodged in a manger. The cryftal pillars curioufly wrought, and being a full Ell long , with their Capitelll of pure gold : the four like pictures of pretious (tones which were five years, each of them in cutting; the Variety of other pretious ftones fet thick here and there , and of great fize ; the neat contexture of other polifhed itones of feveral colours and i.uflre .- the pictures of inlaid pretious ftones, which compofe the Ante- pcndiHm of the Altar •' the variety of rich Cameos which are fet here ani there , add cui into pictures : in

fine


of Italy. 175

"ne, the whole compofure of this Al- T *r and Tabernacle , being the height of wit and riches, I can neither de- fcribe enough, nor you admire fuffi- ciently.

4. Having thus feen the Gal- The Ar- tery and adjoyning Cabinets , I gtntaria. was prefently led into another quarter of thisPallace, where I faw the Great Dukes Argentaria , or Plate. Entring into this great fquare Room, I faw twelve great cupbords as high as the Room, fet with excel- lent plate in all kindes. In one of them they (hewed me a whole fer- vice of beat-en Gold , as difbet, plates , forces, [pomes, knives, with a world of other rich velTels fet in Gold; alfo little Pictures in miniature ; curious little Cabinets befet with Gold and Jewels ; a Turkjjh Cime- tar, whofe handle and fcabbard of Gold , are thick fet with Diamonds and Precious Stones^two other /words with their hilts of Gold curioufly wrought with Diamonds -, a Dagger iutable to one of them, and of the fame richncfs ; a great Crofs fet thick with Diamonds, and other precious

{tones


176 The Voyage {tones, a rare cup of one great Em* mtrAtid, with a cover to it of the fame ^ a Bafin and Eure of Gold fee very thick with Turk] flones. In ano- ther Cupbord I fiw great variety of Silver Plate in all kindes. In an other they (hewed me a Saddle and bridle with flirops of Golds , all fet thick with Turfy Bones, Diamonds, Pearls, and other rich ftones, with the [addle cloth , or hostffe , all etn- brodered with Gold and Pearl'. this was a Prefent from the Emferour to the Grand Duks- * n an ot ^ er cupbord they (hewed me the four great ftlver Bedpofts enameld here and there, and fet with poliflied ftones of divers colours : They were made for the marriage bed of the now Great Prlncefs , Daughter to the late Duke of Orleans. In ano- ther they (hewed me a curious Anteptndium for an Altar , all of beaten Gold fet with Pearlt , precious Stones , and the Picture of Cofmus the Second in the mid- dle of it , of curious enameled work, with his Ducal Crown fee with Diamonds very richly ^ all

along


Of Italy. 177 along this Antcfendium above, runs an Infcription in Letters compofed of many Rubies each Letter being two fingers long, and- importing tilde words :

GOSMUS II. DEI GRATIA MAGNUS DUX ETRURliE EX VOTO.

In another Cupbord I was fhown the foot of an Elan t and a VifardaM fet 3 and covered with Turkey ftoves.

5. Defcending from hence , we The great were led into the great Halloi this Hall* Palrace, a vaft Room , painted on all

fides of the Walls with bold Painting , reprefenting t;he Victories of the Flo- rentins anciently. Here it is that oa Midfommer-d,Aj the Country People come and Dance before the Great JD^,and the beft dancers are recom- penced with an honourable reward.

6. From hence I was let into The low? the long Corridor, or do fe Gallery , Corridot. which runs from the New Pallace

to the Old, over the River, and over the tops of houfes; for the fpnee of half a mile, with many turnings and windings. Its very ufeful for the Prince when "he will

go


ij% Th ( e Voyag e

go fee his precious Treafure in the oldPallace, or elfego privately and hear how Juftice is miniftred there. For the Great Duke Francis gave or- der to BnontaleHtij a rare Architect , to break a window from this Corridor into the great Room in the old Paliace,where the Magiflrates render Juftice, but yet fo privately, that none fhould perceive it; The Ar- chitect did it, by fetting up there the Dukes Armes at large , and break- ing a window behind them fo im- perceptibly, that the Great Duke through the little holes made in the fix Bottles of his Armes, could both hear and fee how Jttflice wss ren- dered there by his Officers. And one diy hearing a poor woman oppreffed by an unjuft fentence, he fent for the Judges , and repre- hending them feverely, he rever- fcd the former fentence, and hear- ing the Caufe a-new himfelf , pro- nounced Sentence for the poor wo- man. The new 7. This long Corridor led us to the Wallace, new -Pallace , called the Palazzo di Pin , becaufe it was begun to

be


of Italy. 179

be built by Luca Pitt, after the de- fign of B rune lie fchi : but the ex- pences growing tdo great for Phi's Pude, it was bought by the Mother of great Cofmus the II, and after- wards carried on by her to that per- fection we now fee it in, and which makes it one of the prime Pallaces of Europe. Thedefignof it (for it is not yet all quite built ) is to be a perfect Roman H, with double Roomes on all fides. As you af- cen^l up to it, by an eafie afcent from the Street, it prefents you with a fair broad-fide of building, in which I counted two and twenty great windows all in a row, and all alike , and all of them cheekt up on either Side by Fine Stone Pil- lars. 1 he faftiion of building in this Pallace, as in moft of the beft Pal- laces of Florence , is that which they call in Architecture, la ma- niera rvftica ; where great Free- flones are made advancing a little one over the other. Entering into the Pallace, we faw tha fair Court; and in the end of it, the Grotta or Foun- tain with a large Bafw , in which

they


The gar- den.


180 The Voyage they keep fifti for prefenx ufe, This Court is fquare , and open onely on one fide towards the Gar- den, but hedged in with a high terrafs of ftone , whofe top is level with the ground of the Garden. Beyond this terrafs and Court, lies a fine green fpoc of ground level with the firfi: ftory of the pal- lace , and half compared about with a demicircle of laurel trees high and thick. Under thefe trees of the demicircle, rife up (lone feats, fix rows high, like the feats in* an Amphitheater ; and capable of two thoufand men , who msy all fie here with eafe , and behold the fports of Cavalry which are often exhibited upon this fair green fpoc of ground by the Nobility : the Great Duke and the Court behold- ing all this from the windows of the Pallace , while the reft of the Nobility and Ladies are feated con- veniently in the Amphitheater un- der the Trees. The re it of this gar- den is curioufjy fet forth with thickets of Bayes , clofe fhady wralkes, Ene high open walkes over- looking


Of It a


L Y.


looking both the Town and Coun- try, great Fonds of water, a World of fhtues of Marb'e and Stone, a rare round bafin of water, with Fountains, and much wetting fport ? the place for Birds and Beafts^ the curious Ice-bouft and cool Cellar under it , where the melting Ice dropping down upon the Barrels of Wine , refrefh it fo exceedingly, that in all my life time I never drunk fo coole as I did at the Tap in this Cellar. But to return again to the Pallace from whence this Garden hath led- me-, from the Garden we afcended into the Cham- bers of the Great Dukes apparti- <j-«  menr, and found them moft fump- ~ # tuous, both for contrivance and fur- . /• . niture. Some of them are painted m( l* rt *~ over head by Vietro di Cortom the prime Painter now living: others expe&his return again from Rome, and fcorne to be Painted by any hand but his: in another Cham- ber we were (hown the Hiftory of Seleucus, giving to his onely fon An- tiochus ( languifliing and pining away with the love of his Mother

in


A rare fute of Hang- ings.


182 The Voy a g e

in Law,) his own beloved wife Stra- tonica ; (hewing by this ftrange and unick example , that paternal love* is greater then Conjugal. All this is rarely painted upon the wall over the Hangings. In another cham- ber (the Great Dukes Chamber of Audience) I faw a Sute of Hang- ings valued at a hunded and fifty thoufand crownes; The Ground of them is Cloth of Gold, upon which are embrodered a world of Birds , Beaps, Flowers, Trees, Rity rs, Land- ships in (ilk and filver^ and in fuch a rich manner, that 1 take this to be one of the faireft Sutes of Hangings in Europe. In another chamber here, I faw a rare collection of Pictures, all Originals, and of the beft h nds in the World, Titians , Raphaels, Michael Angelos, Andrea del Sar- ft>V, and many others. The belt of them is that of Raphael , and painted by his own hand. This -is the belt collection of Pi&ures that ever I faw, and it belongs ro Prince Leopold the Great L-ahes Brother, and a great Virtuofo. In the Great Lmcheffes Chamber I few

half


of Italy. 183

half a dozen of excellent pieces of Raphael and others. In another chamber (I lie Dukes Bedchamber) we faw h s curious Thermometers , or weather- gl a fles , which arc moft curious. In another chamber ( the doors being fet open for the nonce,) we looked through fixteen cham- bers at once, and all of them fair gr^at rooms upon one floor. And after all the rooms of this houfe (as, , the coole love fummer roomes , the masking roome, the feveral apparti- «  ments of the Great Prince-, fon of the Great Duke , and of Cardinal John Carlo, Prince Matthias , and Prince Leopold, all three brothers of the Great Duke, and all lodg- ing at once in this great Pallace ) by Ipeciai favour we got the fight of the Great Dukes fair Diamond ,The fa- which he alwayes keeps under mous Dl lock and key. Its absolutely the amond. faired in Europe, It weigheth 138 carats', and its almoft an inch thick: and then our Jewellers will', tell you what its worth. I am fure Alpnficur Simonet in Lyons ( a fa- mous Jeweller), to whom I fhewed I thj


The Att-

gptFlins Church.


The Pi- azza.


184 The Voyage

the weight and thicknefs of it, va- lued it to be richly worth a hundred thoufand Crowns between Mar- thant and Marchant, and a hundred and fifty thoufand Crowns between Prince and Prince.

8. Going from the Great Dukes Pallace, we fell prefently upon the Attgttftins Church. This is a neat Church defigned by Brunellefchi % and much beautified with hand- fome pillars. The Tabernacle and High Altar coft a hundied thou- fand Crowns, -and yields to few in Italy for neatnefs and ftate. Behind the High Altar in the very end of the Church, is a rare picture of our Sa- viour abfolving the poor woman catched in Adultery. The confu- (ion that appears in the face of this woman, makes it appear what a rare Painter Allori was, who made this Pidure.

9. Parting from hence over the- Bridge (where four white Marble" Statues reprefenttng the four feafons of the year, Hand , all made by Michael Angdo) we carre to the Piazza of the Gran Dttca , where I

faw


of Italy. 185

faw thzEqueftrian Statue ofCofmm the Great in Bronze, with his Victo- ries and prime actions in the Pede- ftal of the fame mettal. At the corner of the old Pallace in this Pi- az,z,a, ftands the brave* Fountain , with a Neptune^ Tritont, and Ne- reides. Near the Gates of the Pal- lace here, itand two Statues of more then Gygantean bulk : that of Da- vid is the hand of Michael Angela : and that of Hercules killing Cacus is of the hand of Bandinelli. The other Statues here in the Portico hard by, are much cryed up for rare Pieces, as that of Perfem in Brafs; that of the- rape ©f the Sabins, in Marble^ and that of fuditb inbraCs holding a fword in one hand, and Eohf ernes his head in the other.

10. Looking up from this- Piaz- za to the cop of the Pallace, I be- held the high Tower mounted there- upon. Its a hundred and fifty yards from the ground , and which is che wonder, it hath no other foundation then the wall of the Pal- lace and the top of the houfe: Hence its faid, that the F/orentins have I ij three


  • 186 The Voyage

Three' 3 wonderful Tdtocrs : one in the air,

^dmirA' to wit, this Tower : another in the

Me Tow- water, to wit, the Fanal of ' Ligorne:

ers. and the third in the Earth, to wit,

the Campanile of Florence , whofe

foundations are exceeding deep in

the ground:

ii. Going from the Piazza to- wards the Domo y we were prefently ftopt by the Church ofS. Michael, a fquare flat Church , whofe outfide is adorned with rare Statues, if not of Gold, yet worth their weight in Gold. I he bed are, that of S. Matthew in brafs made by Lau- rentius Cion: that of S. Thomas in brafs touching the fide of our Saviour, with great demonftration of diffidence in his lookes , is of Andrea Varrcchios hand. That of S. Peter in Marble is excellent for the Drapery of it. That of S. George in Marble is compared to the beft in Rome, and hath been praifed both in Profe and Verfe: chat of St. Marks na th fo grave and honelt a countenance, that Mi- chael Angela (a competent judge ) flopping one diy to behold it, and

being


The Church t>f Saint Michael.


o f It a l y. 187

being asked what bethought of it, anfwered, if St. Mark had fuch a countenance as this, as its likely he had, a man might almoft, for his iookes fake, beiieve all that he wrote : for, never did I fee ( faid he) any man have more the Iookes of a good man then this.

1 z. Going from hence we were The D$. prefently at the Domo. This, I mo , believe, was the fineft Church in Italy when it was built. It was anci- ently called S. Reparatas Church j but (ince it is called Santa Maria Florida, a fit name for the Cathe- dral of 'Florence* The foundations and architecture of it were contri- ved by Arrolfo di Lapo, a Dutch- man s W&ala manierarafiica y faith Vafari of it, in his lifesof Painters. Its one of the neateft Churches without that I ever beheld ^ being clad in white ^ red y and blacky mar- ble, but its onely white plaftered within, with pillars of a dark colou- red freeftone. What if the Archi- tect of this Church were fome- what of Diogenes his minde ? and as Diogenes thought the World I iij would'


188 The


VoY A


G E


would be turned up-fide down one day ; fo. this Architect thought that the World would be turned infide out one day , and that then his Church would be the fiireft in the World, and all lined with Marble : As it is, it looks a little hypocritically • though the Stru- cture within be of a notable con- trivance. On the top of it ftands The Cu- mounted a fair Cupola, (or Tbolus) made by Brunellefchi a Florentine. This was the firft Cupola in Eu- rope ; and therefore the more ad- mirable for having no Idea after which it was framed ; and for being the Idea of that of S.Peters in Rome, after which fo many young Cupo- las in Rome , and elfewhere , have been made fince.Hence it is ftid,that Michael Angela coming now and then to Florence (his Native Coun- try) whiles he was making the Cupola in Rome of S. Peters Church, and viewing attentively this Cupula of Florence, ufed to fay to it ; Come tenon voglior meglio di te nonfoffo. Its faid alfo , chat Brmellefchi making this Cupola, caufed T>„

vims,


of Italy. 189

verbs, Cook-Jhop, and Lodgings to be fee in it, chat the workmen might find all things necefiary there, and not fpend time in going «p« and down.- and he had reafon , for this Cupola from the ground be- low, to the top of all the Lantern ? is two hundred and two Braccie, or yards high.The/r^f Mfe* from the top of the Cupola to the round brazen ball, is thirty fix yards high. The Ball is four yards wide, and capable of four and twenty men: and the Crofs at the top of this Ball is eight yards long.The ftraight parage up to the Ball is neatly contrived , like a round Chimney of white Marble, with holes on both fides , and brazen fteps crofs thofe holes,to climbe up eafily by hand and foot , the paflage being clean and fmooth.Trom the top of this Cupola, taking a perfect view of Florence under us, and of the whole Country about it , with the fight of two thouj and Villas or Country houfes, fcattered here and there , round about the Town, we came down again to view the infide of this I iiij Church-


Ipo The Voyage

Church. It is about three hundred foot long, from the great doore to the Quire , and from thence to the end almoft two hundred more. The Quire is round, and perpenr dicularly under the Cupola , being of the fame bignefs ^ and, upon fo- icrni dayeswhcir the wax Candles

ue lighted round about it,it lookes

glorioufly: otherwife in winter time it feems too dark. The High At- tar y which ftands- in this Quire, is plain, like thofe of ancient Cathe- drals, and adorned with a rare Sta- tue of a dead Chrift in white marble made by the hand of Bandinelli. Looking up from the Quire to the Cupla , you fee it painted on the infide with the reprefentation of Heaven , Hell and V ur gator j. The Painters were Georgia Vafari , and Thaddeo Zucchari. Behind the high Altar are the rare ftatues of Adam and Eve y by the hand of Bandinelli. near the door of the Sacrifty you may read an infcription, importing^ how that in this Town of Florence had been held a General Ciunctl,

where


of Italy. ipr

where the Reunion of the Latin and' Greek. Church had bees made. The Golden Diploma of this union writ- ten both in Latin and Greeks, and fubfiribed unto by the hands of the Poland Cardinals on the one fide ; and by the Emperour of Con- ftaminople y with the Patriarch of Leandro ] Conftantinople, and the (7ra^ £*•■ Alberti (hops on the other fide ; and authen- Defcript. ticated by the Leaden Seal of the ltd. Pope, and the Golden Seal of the f.iid Emperor, is kept in the Ar- chives, or Regifters of Bologna. In TheCoun this Cornell both the Pope of Rome eel of Flo. Eugenitis the IV*. and Paleclogus rente. the Emperour of Conftantinople, were prefent,with the Cream of Bifhops , both of the Eafttrn and wefiem Churches ; and in this Councel not onely the Proccffion of the Holj Ghcfi from the Vvtf&r and the «SVj Wi»s vindicated ; but alfo Purgatory was proved to the Greeks out of their own GreekSathers, as well as out of the Latin Yathers; and di- vers other points of Ceremony and pra dice were aflerted & made good. Unto all which the f?id Emperwr I v and


192 The Voya ge

and Patriarch , and the other Greek. Bijhops (except reftlefs Marcus E- phefinm) fubfcribcd -, as did alfo the Armenians, Ethiopians, Georgians, and Jacobites , who all hereupon were admitted to Communion by the Roman Church. In fine, in this Church you fee the Statues of divers Saint t who- have been Arch-bijhop of this Town ■, and the Tombes of divers famous men ; as of Marftlim Eicinus the Platonick^ Chriflian Phi- her:-oi Dante the Florentine


Poet,.whofe true PiSture is yet to be feen here in a red gown : of Joan- nes Acutim an Englijh Knight, and General anciently of the Pifam , as the old Gothick Letters fet high up- Jh- hi* on the wall under his Picture on mftitution horfeback , told me. Yet Verfteg'an »f decayed will not have him to hive been cal- intelU- led Sir John Sharpe , but Sir fohn gence. Haukjvood. But it imports little to me what his name wis , feeing he was abrive Englifhman, anddefer- See Ba- V ed to have his Tomb and Infcnpti- l^ritVA- on here, and his picture among the ward the other Worthies in \.hz Dukes Gal- Third. igQ Hercs alfo in this Church

t he


of Italy. 193

the Tombe of Brunellefchi, or Phi- lippus Brunaltius, who made the Cupola of this Church: as alfo the Tombe of Giotto , who made the Campanile, or fine Steeple here. In fine, here lies alfo Cimabue the fa- mous Painter of his time. It was he y a jfari in that firft reftored Painting again, the Lives which had been loft for many years of Paint-] in Italy , and taught it to Giotto t G ad- ers ^ in ci- di, Taffi and others, who carried it ntabtie. on to a great height.

1 3 . Near to the Domo ftands the Th -Cam- Campanile , or high Steeple of Flo- penile rence made by Giotto. Its a hundred and fifty Braccie,or little yards high, and half as deep in the ground. Its fl it at top, and crulted all over with curious little poliflied Marble ftones, Marble hilars, and Statues • fo chat, (as Charles the V faidof it) if it had a vfe to cover it wkhal, and hinder it trom being feen too frequntly, men would flock chither at the taking off of this cover, as to fee a wonder. Indeed its a kind of -'onder to. fee, that in three hundred yers fpace, not the leaft pare of chac Steeple(all crulted over I vj with


'The Jiap- 'Ijlerio.


1574 The Voyage

with Marble,) is perifhed. There are divers good ftatues on aill fides of it, but the belt of therm all is that of the Z'hccom, or balldman, made by Daiatello, which hte him- ] lelfeftemed fo much, that: when he would affirm any thing ferrioufly^ he ufed to fay • Alia fe ch'tie porto al mio Zuccone : and the famie Do. natello having finifhed it 3 fpoke to it in jeft, and faid • Favella , horfu\ favelia ^ ti venga: U cacaftangtte : fuch good conceits have fantcaitical men of themfelves and theiir own works.

14. Near to the- Bomo a!fo , ftands the Baptiftery -, or iround Church of Sr. John , where a ill the children of the Town are b:ipnized. The brazen doors o( it (three iinall) are admirable, efpecially that vwhich looks towards the Great Chiurch, of which Michael Angelo feeing asked his opinion, anfwered, That it was fowdl made, that ic rmigl t ftand at the entrance of Par<ad\fe> 'Ihefe ^r/areall ofBrafs ImHo- ned into figures, containing the

remiark?


of It a l y. 195:

remarkable Hiftories of both the . Tpftaments. They were the work of brave Laurentius C7%who fpent fifty years in making them : a long time, I confefs ; but, this is it which Ape lies called Aternitati pingere , to work things that will out-laft Bra fs, and be famous for ever. With- in this Bapiflery I faw a Statue of S. Mary Magdalen of the hand of Donatelh- and its a rare Piece, if you con^der Magdalen in her Pennance. Heres alfo a neat Tomk of Baltafar Coffa, once called John the XXIV5 but depofed in the Council of Confiance for the Peace of the Church. The Ttmbe of this Baltajfar looking fomethinglike a Cradle, may be cafted the Cradle of the greatnefs of the Medicean Fa- mily., For fome Writers fay , that Cofrn-M Medices , firnarned after- wards Pater Patria , being heir of Alfonfo ' this Baltajfar Cojfa fwho died at Lofrbl in Fforence, in the houfeof John Ait- his Com-\ dices.) With the Money that he pfW./i,- foWnd belonging to him, after \\\s fl , death, did fuch good deeds to the

people, ,• ' J

i


ip6 The Voya g e

People, that he wonn tohimfelf the name of Pater P atria ^ and to his Family, that credit, which got it af- terwards tTTe fupream command.

15. I cannot omit here to take notice of a lictie round pillar in the Piazza, near this Baptiflery, with the figure of a Tree in iron nailed to it, and old words engraven upon it, importing, that in this very place flood anciently an Elme-tree, which being touched cafuilly by ihehe-arfe ofSi.Zettobiw , as they carried ic here in Proceffion , the Tree pre- fendy hereupon budded forth with green leaves of fweet odour, tho ug'i in the Moneth of January In me- mory of which Miracle , this Pullar was fetup in the fame place for a memorial. iyy 16. From thence going to the

Church of Church of S.Mark^ belonging to the S Mark. Dominicans , I faw there the Tomb ofS. Amoninm rch-bi(hop once of this Tovvn,nnd a Fry or of rb is order. The Tomb is under the Altar 5 in a neat Chippel on ihe left hand, nrde b" John di Bologna. In this Church alfo I faw a rare Pi&ure of S. Mar^


of Italy. 197

S. JMark , made by Bartholomew del Frate , it lhnds full in your fight as you enter into the Church; and a man muft be blind noc to fee it, and dull not to like it, On the left hand , as you enter into the Church is the Tomb of P'wus A4i- randula , commonly called the Phaemx of Princes r with this Epi~ tafh written upon the fide of the Wall, Joannes jacet hie Mirandula^ cetera

Korunt Et Tagas & Ganges % for/an & An- tipodes. Neat'tbisTombisafine Piftureup- on an Altar, where two Little An- gels are made playing upon Mufical Inftruments. Thefe Angels are held to be the r.ireft Pieces that can be feen in Painting. They are of the hand of Bartholomeo del Frate; In the Convent of thefe Frjars I faw often their ftill-houfe, where they make and fell excellent extractions and cordial waters. There is alfo a neat Library here filled with good Books

17. Turning from hence on the

left


i^8 The Voya g e

The An- left hand, I came prefentfy to the nnnciata. Annuntiata^ a place of greac Devo- tion.The Pi&ures of Faith and Cha- rity over the Arch in the Antiporto , or open porch built upon Pillars, are of the hand of lacomo Pcntornoy being but yet nineteen years old ; which, when Michael Angelo hrft faw, he faid , This lacomo , if he continue thus,will carry up Painting to the skie«. Entering into the little Court that fhnds before the Church door, you fee it Painted round about in Frefco by rare hands. Thofe Pieces tint Andrea del S 'art o made, are the belt. , and his head in white Marble isfet in the wall. In the Gloyfler^ over the door that goes into the Church is feen a rare Picture in frefco upon the wall, of the hand of Andrea del Sarto. It reprefents our 13. Lady with our 'Saviour upon her knee , and S. Jo- feph in a cumbent pollute leaning upon a Sack full Itufc , and reading in a Book. The Pi&ure of the Blejfed Virgin is admirable for fiveetnefs and Majefty. This Picture h called La Madonna del Sacco ,

and


of It a l y. 19 )

and it got Andrea fuch credit,, that "Titian hi mfclf preferred it before all the pieces he had ever feen, and ufed often to fay, that it grieved h m, that he could not often fatiate his fight with the beholding of fo rare a Pifture : and Michael Angc- lo talkingonce in Rome with Raphael Urbin concerning Painters, faid thus to him: There is vn hmrncorto, aiittle fellow in Flore nee (meaning this Andrea, ) who , had he been employed in great matters as thou art,, would make thee fweat again. V'mmfi make a great difpute which of thofe three Painters was the moft excellent : Raphael Vfhin } Michael Angelo, or Andrea delSarto. But the wifeft give every one his parti- cular praife or excellency : Raphael was excellent in colon: Michael Ah- geto in defign : and Andrea in making things feem to be of rilievo , and look as God made them, that is, pilpy, and rifinguplike living flefb. Having thus admired the work of Andrea, we entred into the Church of the Annunciata , and there faw the curious Silver Alter 9 behind

whicfe


200 The Voyage

upon the wail, is kept the miracu- lous Piflure of the Annunciation, which gives the mine of Annuncia- te to this Church. The Uncle pi- cture of our Saviour, about a foot and a hilf long, which is feen upon the out-fide of the Tabernacle, is of theforefaid Andrea's hind, & much efteemed In ths Church lyeth buried B actio Bandinelli^ a famous Scu!ptor,in a curious Marble Tomb, with his own and his wives p : c%ire , engraven in Marble with his own hand. Behind the gnire lies buryed Joannes di Bologna,*, famous Sculptor alfo , as his feveral works in Flf rence (hew him to have been- as the Rapt of the Sabins before the old Pallace. The Centaure in the Streets. The Chappel of S. Anto- ninus in $>• Market Church. This Cbappel in the Annunciata here,and the golden Horfe and Man fpoken of above in the Dukes Armorj, do witnefs.

1 8. From hence,having firft feen the Statue o{ the Great Duke Fer- dinand on horfeback in Brafs, which Hands in the Piazza before the Annunciata,


of Italy.


20 1


Annunciata, r went to the Church of the Francifcans , called Santa Croce. This Church is of a large g An ft a bulk and height, but fomewhattoo Crcce. d^rke. The fide Altars are many , iRd cheeked with round pillars, and adorned with excellent pidures. The Pulpit would become &Chrj- fiflome , or a Chrjfologue: Its of •white Marble, in which are graven the mod: notable adionsofS. Fran- €is in a hajfo rilievo. I never beheld it, but I found fome new graces in it. Somewhat behind it , near to a little door, is the Tenth of Mi- chael Angelofhe Trifmegift oiltalj, being the greateft Printer ,the great- eft Sculptor , the greateft Architect of his time. Hence over his Tomb, and under his Pidure, are placed three tvomcnin white marble, repre- fenting ArchiteBurt , Parting , and Sculpture, holding in their hands the feveral inftruments be- longing to thefe profeffions. If you aske me whether of the two Paint- ing, or Sculpture, is to be prefer- . ed, though a blind man being cho- fen judge once of this queftion,

when


202 The Vo y a g e

when he was given tounderftnnd J that in the fmooth Painting there were Heads, Armes , Legs y Hands and Feet, as well as in the bulky Statue which he had felt, judged prefently for Painting; yet Michael Angclo himfelf preferred Sculpture before Tainting as the body is to be preferred before the fuperficiet of a Body. But to return again to the Tombe of this great artift, I found iome words upon the Tombeftone , but thofe fo dull and hard to be read in that dark corner, that one in the company chofe rather to make him a new Epitaph , then read that which is written there : and it Was this .,

Cur indignemurmortales rmrte perire? Ecce,ftupor mundi ! hie Angel us ipfe

perit. And 1 think the modern Roman was of the frme mind too, when he chofe alfo to make him this Epi- taph : Roma mihi mortem tribuit y Tttrenth

fit am. Nemo alirs vellct nafci r & cbire,

locis.

In


203


of Italy.

In the midfl: of this Church I found buried an Englijh Bijhop , called Catri-ckjNho h d been Embajfadour here from England, and likely in the time of the Council of Florence; His Arrrns were three Cats Argent in a Sable Yield. In fine, at the ve- ry end of this Church, on the left band., ftands a neatChafpel, with a Painted Cupola, belonging to the Family of the Nicolini , in which Chappelthere are excellent Statues and Pictures.

19. Not farrfrom hence ftands 7^ the kbbadia, an Abbey of Btnedic- y tin Aifonkj. In the Church is the Tombe of the founder of this Abbey a German Nobleman , called Conte Hugo t who commanded Tofcany under the Emperour Otho the III. The occaflonot building this Mo- naftery and many others by this -Hugo, is too long to tell, and per- chance would not find btlief every where. Its told publickly every year upon S. Thomas ■ his day in high Mafs time here,by fome one or other of the chief wits of the Aca- demy of the Crufca - t and he thafs

curious


Ab-


J-


S. Maria NQvella>


204 The Voyage

curious to' know it, may hear it there, as I did, with great facisfafti- on.

20. From thence I went to the Church of Santa Maria Novella belonging to the Dominicans. Here it is, that the Councelof Florence, fpoken of above, was held. There are many good Pictures in this Church, as alfo divers neat Tombes of holy Men and Women , and p- chers: among whiclyhat of fofeph Patriarch of Constantinople 5 who had been the Melted occafion and inftru- ment of reducing the Greeks Church to the right Faith again, is remark- able. Us on the right fide of the I Church.

21. Returning from hence along !

The St a- the River fide, we c me to the high j tueoffu- pillar with the Statue of f fifties in j fiice. porphyry upon it. It w.s erected here,bec wife it was in this very pkce where Cofmus the Great, beard the news of the reduction of Siena. A witty Nobiemsn f eirg this Statue of Iuflice upon fo high a pillar, frid rhat [uflit't here was too high pla- ced, fox Jwor men to arrive co it.

Ah


o


f Italy.


°5


An other obferved, that Juftice there" turnes her buck to the Courts of Iujlke, which {land not farr from thence.

22. Having thus vifited the chief things in the Town, 1 vifited fome places out of the Town- and chiefly, /w;* the Poggio' Imperiale, a Villa belong- j m t r i_ ing to the Great E* m chefs , and a /f Ct ?bout a good mile diftant from the Town. In this houfe I faw rare Pictures, and great ftore of them, the houfe being furnilhed with no- thing elfe. In one gallery are the true Pictures of divers late Princes of the houfe of Auflria^ of the houfe / of A4edices y and of other Princes their Allies. In other roomes we f; w a world of rare Pictures, ?s the tttfm ofTitim, though I think it be but a Copy: the admirable S. Hiercme of Alberto Dureo : a Magdalen o{ Raphaels hand^: a St. lohn Bs.ptifl of Caravagio's hand : an Adam and Eve of Alberto Du- the Piety of Pietro Perugino ,


reo


thar is, the Picture of our Bletfed Laty with our Saviour dead upon for knee j S. hhn EvangeliSl, ;nd

three


Prato- Li.10.

f


206 T h f Voyage

three ' i . '. -rfons (landing, or ' kr • ng h\ . With weeping faces,and mdft i id lo >ta ; it«s o ie of the moft movirg Pieces chat 1 ever beheld. Then the FiUure of the Affumption of 0.1. Ladym the Chappel, of the handof Andrea del Sarto ; with a World of other moft exquifit pict- ures. The little neat Oratory in this houfe, called the Oratory o( the Great D utchefs, curioutty inlaid into Flowers , by polifhed (tones of di- vers colours; thatis, awholeclo- fet of (hining Marble inlaid into Flowers, is the neateft little Room that ever I faw. In fine, the little Grotte, and the Statue oi Admit made by the hand of Alichael An- <rdo are much efteemed,

23. An other day we went to Pratolino , a Villa of the Great Duke, fome fix Miles diflfant from Florence Here we faw bthe Garden excellent Grots, Fountains , Water- works , Sbadjf-walkes , Groves, and the like, all upon the fide of a Hill. Here you have the Grotte of Cupid with the wetting-ltooles , upon which, fitting down, a great Spout

of


' Of 'Italy. 207

of water comes full in your face. The Fountain of the Tritons over- takes you fo too 3 and wafheth yoa foundry. Then being led about this Garden, where there are ftoreof Fountains under the Laurel Trees , we Were carried back to the Grottes that are under the Stairs , and faw there the feveral Gimchi d* Aqua : as that of P<*#.ftriking up a melo- dious tune upon his Mouth-Organ at the fight of his Mittrifs, appear- ing over againft him : that where the Angel carries a Trumpet to his Mouth , and foundeth it • and where the Comtrey Clown offers a Difh of Water to a Serpent , who drinks of it, and lifceth up his head when he hath drunk : that of the Mill which Teems to break and grind Olives • th e Paper Mill : the Man with tht Grinding Stone : the Sarazens head gaping and fpewing out Water ; the Grocte of Galate a who comes out of a Dore in a Sea Chariot with two Nymphs , andfaileih a while upon the Water , and fo returns again in at the fame Dore : the curjous round table ■ capable of twelve or K fifteen


Lampeg

gio 9


ao8 The Voyage

fifteen men , with a curious foun- tain playing conftantly in the midf of it , and places between every trencher , or perfon, for every ma to fet his bottle of wine in cold wa ter ; the Samaritan Woman com in out of her houfe with her buckets to fetch water at the fountain, and ha \ing filled her buckets , returns back again the fame way : in the mean time you fee Smiths thumping, -5 *W* chirping in trees , Alills grinding and all this is done by water, whicfc fets thefe little inventions awork and make them move asrit were o themfelves : in the mean time ar Qrgan plays to you while youdinej there in Frefco at that Table , ifyouj have meat. Then the neat Bathing TUce^ the Pillar of petrified Water ; and laftly,the great Pond and Grottd before the Houfe , with the huge Gyant (looping to catch at a Roc^ to throw it at Heaven. This Gyant is fobig, that within the very thigh of him is a great Grotte of water , called the Grotte of Thetis and the Shell Fifbes,z\[ fpouting out water. 24. 1 went alfo to Lampggio a

Villa


Of I T A L Y. 20£

Villa fome five miles clitlant from Florence, belonging to Prince- Mat' thim. Its curioufly adorned with Pictures , efpecially Battles o: the hand of TempeBa, Here I fiw a curious Cabinet of Coral and ena- melled work The fine G'woco dl Mtcha, or Turkj/hfl*j. The curi- ous Glaflfes, and little Armory.

25. Returning to the Town a- The gain , we faw the Great Dukes Sta- Stahlti. bles full of excellent well managed Horfes.

26- Near to the Stables, (lands the The Serraglio where the Wild Beajls are Wild kept, which they nuke fight often Beafiu agunft one another. Here I faw Lyons, Leopards , Tygers , Bears \ Wolfes > Wild Boars and Foxes, all which they can let out feverallyac the Dores of their feveral Dens, into a fair Court to fight , and when they have done,they can bring them back again into their Dens by a fearful Machine of Wood made like a great Green Dragon , which a man within it roles upon wheels ; and holding out two lighted Torches at the Eyes of it , frights the fiercer* K ij Beafl


210 The V o y kg £

beaft- thereby into his Deri. The

Prince and the Court in the mean

time fta'nding' high above may

fee the Combats of thefe Wild

In the Beafts with eafe and without dan-

Chronolo" ger. I have read, thataZjw»here

q;y of Pr once efcaping out of this place by

trusRo- chance, and running up and down

muddm. the Streets, met atlaft (all others

to i. par- Ay' n g lnt0 Houfes) a little Child,

!* ° who had neither fear nor wic

enough to retire; and feized upon

him. The Mother of the Child

hearing in what cafe he was, ran

out prefently , a nd call ing her felf

upon her knees with tears in her

eyes , and humble poftures of

Amplication, moved fo the Lyon

to pity r that he rendered her the

Child without hurting it , or the

Mother of it.

I7. I faw alfo here divers Pal- laces of Noblemen upon occafion of their Fesline. ; For it' is the Cuftom here in Winter, to invite the Chief Ladies of the Town ( Married Women onely ) to come to play at Cards in Winter Evenings for three

or four- hours fpace , and-this one
S1 H n night


Of M Vl y. T 211

night inonePallace, another nighc in another 'Pallace. I hither the Ladies go, and find the Houfe open to all Comers and Goers both LaMes and <3en!hmw>, that are of any garb. In every Chamber^ the Dores are fet open j and for the moft pare you (hall fee eight , or ten Cham- bers on a floor t going out of one another, with aiqaare Table hold- ing eightPerfons , as many Chairs, two Silver CandlefticKs with Waxe Lights in them , andftore ofl.ighis round about the room. At the hour appointed .,. Company being come , they fit down to play „ a . Cavdm fitting between every Lady, wAn\\*be Women as fine in Clotbs and Jewels, as if they were going to a Ball. The Dore/ of all thefe Rooms being open , the Light great ,. the Women glittering, and all glorious., you would take tbefc-Pallaces to be thz{Enckdfted> Vdlues of the Old King, of' the ■ Mountains. Any Gentlemen may come into thefe Palaces and {fond- behind the Gamefters , and fee both fcow-modeftly they play , and how Kiij little


Their Sport/.


21 J The V ©y a g*b

little they play for. In the mean rime there's a Side C hamber al wayes open for Gentlemen to go into , and r«frefh themfelves with Wine {landing in fnow,or with Limorwde, er fome fuch Cooling Drinks, which are alfo offered to the Ladies. In a great Room below , at the en- trance of the Pallace, there is a long Table for Gamefters that love to play deep, that is , that love to play only for money.

The Florentine enjoying by the goodnefs and wifdome of their excellent Prince, the fruits of peace, have many other recreation^ where the people pafs their time cheat- fully,- and think not of rebellion by muttering in corners. For this rea- fon, both in Winter and Summer they havejtheir feyeral divertife- ments. 'In winter their Giuoco di JlGmocoCalcio (a play fomething like our di Cakm Football , but that they play with their hands ) every night from the Epiphany till Lent _, with their Principi di Calcio. This being a thing particular to Florence , de- serves to be defcribed- The two

Va^lions


Of Italy. 213

Tatlions of the Calcio , the Red . and the Greex, choofe each of them , a Prince , forae young Cavalier of a. good Purfe. Thefe Princes being chofen , choofe a world of Officers, and lodge, for the time, in fome great Pallace •, where they keep their Courts , receive Embafiadors from one another, and give them Publick Audience in State, fend Poft to one another , complain of one anothers Subjects, and take prifoners from one another j hear their Coun- sellors one after another, diffwading from, or perfwading to war ^ give Orders for fettling their affairs at home ■ hear the complaints of their fubjefts , jeer their enemy Princes in Embafiies, and at laft refolve to fight , with proclaiming War. During thefe ferious Trea- ties which laft for many nights, the Secretaries of State (two prime wits ) read before their feveral Princes Btlls for regulating and re- forming the abufes of their fub- jefts *, and read openly Petitiens an&fecret Advices : in all which they Jeer a world of people in the K iv Town


214 The V oy a g «  Town, and (how prodigious wit. In fine, having fpun out thus the time till near Carnavale , or Shrovetide ; the two Princes refolve »n a Battle at Calcio , to be fought in the Fiaz- of Santa Croce . before the


z,a


Great Duke and Court. Upon the day appointed , the two Princes of the Calcio come to the place in a moft ftately Cavalcata , with all the youngNoblemen and Gentleme n of theTown,upon the befl: Horfes they can find , with Scarfs red, or green, shout their Arms. Having made their feveral Cavalcataes before the Great Dukes Throne or Scaffold, they light from their Horfes , and enter into the Lifts with Tromipets founding before them, and accom- panied with a Stately Train , and with their Combatants in their fe- veral Liveries. Having rancked themfelves a pretty diftance one from the other,their Standard Bear- ers at found of Trumpet , csrry both at once, their Standards to the foot of the Great Dukes Scaf- fold. This done, the Ball, or Ballon is thrown up in the midft between

them,


Of Italy. 215

therm , and to it they go with great nimiblenefs, fleight, and difcretioa j and fometimes they fa II to it indeed, andl cuff handfomely : but upon paiim of death , no man mull: relent, afterwards out of the Lifts , what ever happened here •, but all animo- sities arifing here , end here top. At Uft, that fide which throws, or ftrikes the Bal'on over the Rails of the other fide , wins the day , and runs to the Standards , whach they carry away till night, at what time the Conquering Prince entertain them at a Feftimdi Ballo at Court , made to (owe Lady - t and where all his Chief Officers and Combatans dance alone with the Ladies at the Ball, noneelfe being permitted to dance with them that night. Befides thefe paftimes,they other have once a week, dancing at the Paflima, Court from Twelfth Day till Lent t at which Baits, all the Ladies of the Town are invited , to the number fometimes of two hundred , and ihcfe all Married Women f and all invited by a particular Ticket. Then K v their


€emti


216 T « E V O Y A e B

their feveral Opera's or Mafical Dramata a&ed and fung with rare coft and art. Laftly, their publick running at the ring, or at the fanchin, for a piece of Plate. And in Sum- mer, they have their feveral Dan- cing dayes , and their frequent Corfidi Palio upon certain known dayes and for known prizes, and all before the good Prince>who co unte- nanceth alUhefe fports with his pre- fence> thinkingwtfefy , that there's lefc hurt in public^ mirth , than in "private mutinies;

Having laid thus much of 27<?- rence , I will now fay fomething of the Court 1 the Government % Strength^, Gentry, Riches, Interefi, Language, and Learned Men of this Town.

For the Court, it's clearly one of the beft of Italy. Great riches make it look plumps and give it an excellent en bon point. The No- ble Pallace, the Prince, his Title ef ^ereniffimo, his Train and Retinue of Noble Officers and Gentlemen, his ftore of Pages , Palfremers, guards of Suffers with Ha/birds ,

his


Of I


T A L Y.


117


his Troop of Horfe waiting upon hinn , make this Court appear fple;ndid. The Dufy himfelf alfojThe who makes this Court, makes it a Great fine Court. His extraordinary Civi- Duke, lity to Strangers , made us think our felves at home there. He is now above Fifty , and hath an Au- flrmn Z/oo^and Lip y which his Mo- ther Magdalena of Auftria , Sifter to the Empercur Ferdinand the II. lent him. He admits willingly of the Vifits of Strangers , if they he men of condition ; and he re- ceives them in the midft of his Au- dience Chamber ftanding ^ and will noc difcourfe with them , till they be covered too. Its impoffible to depart from him difgttfted , becaufe he pays your Vifit whh-*armuch wit as civility : and having enter* tained yoa in his Chamber with wife difcourfe , he will entertain you in your own Chamber too With a Regalo of dainty Meats and Wines , which he will be fure to j-y fend you, The Great Duchefs too Great is an other main pillar of this fy; c hJx • Court. She is of the Houfe of the

Duk?


2l8 The Voyage

  • Duke efVrbin , once a Sovereign

Prince in Italy , but now extiinid in her Father, who was the laft Duke " and flie had been Soveraign of that Dutchy 5 had fhe been of the So- vereign Sexe : but what Nature re- fufed her in Sexe , it hath given her in Beauty , and fo made her a Greater Sovtraign, even of Florence. In a word , Florence the Fair , was aever fo fair , as was- the Fair lyutcbejfe of Florence when I faw her firth Of her the Great Duke lath two Sons. Cofmus the Prince

  1. / Tofcanie hi th married one of the

Daughters of the late Duke of Or- kance. He is a great Travelle^and hath vifited moft of the Princes Courts of Chriftendom. The Name ©f this Family is Medices ; a Family which hath given to the Church four Popes y and to France two Queens. This Family is antient , and came The Me- firft out of Athens. It was always diceav considerable during the Republic!^ of Family. Fkrence , but far more, fince it hath got the ftart of all the other Families fo far , as to become their Soveraign, The beginning of

the


Of I


TALY.


21*


the greatnefs of this Family came from Co/mm Medices furnamed Pa- ter Patrk. This man being very rich Set AP and of a liberal mind , fpent four finfi hundred thoufand Crowns in pub- Lofchi in Iicik and private Buildings, and one his com- hundred thoufand Crowns more in pendi. loan Moneys to the poor Citizens. Hffior, The'fe Generous A&ions which fhould have got him the love of all men, purchafed him, the hatred of fome of the great Ones, who ac- cufing him of affe&ing Soveraigntj, rakfed a ftrong Faction againft him. 1 he heads of this Fadion were Rinaldo Alb'tzzX , PaU Strozzi , Ridolfo Peruzzi y and NictloBar- badori. Thefe men corrupting the Suffrages of the Senate , caufed Cof- mus tobeclaptup, with an inten- tion to take away his life. Cofmm m prifon fearing poyfon, abllained from Meats lour dayes together, and died almoft tor fear of being killed : At laft he was refcued from this melancholy humor by his honeft Keeper ; who gave him fuch aflurances , that he ftiould not be poifoned , that he took Meat

again,


S30 The V«fa6e again , and kept in his vital breath, which was almofl: come to his liips. Then his Keeper (not content: to be half courteous ) having re- covered his body , ftrove to reco- ver his mind too , which was fore (pent with fears and melancholy j and for this purpofe , brought un- to him the Buffon of Bernards Guadagni then Confaloniero , the Chief Magiftrate of the Republick, who with his witty Jefts, fo cheered him up with mirth, that he began not only to think of Jiving again, but alfo of getting out from thence, that he might live long. To this end he works with the Buffon to carry a promife in writing from him to the Confalomero , of iooo Crowns of Gold , upon condition he would free him. The Buffon under- takes it , and money takes with the Confalomero , who under pretence of examining the caufe to put him to death, finds him only worthy of ba- nifhment , to which he condemns himj and the place of his baniflimenc was Venice. This was it that he de- firei, for being at Vwm ;he wrought


The Go- vernment


Of Italy, &2%

fo well by Friends with the People, thait loved him , that he was refto- redl again to his Countrey , and got the Title of Pater PatrU by a Pub- lick Decree. By this Title his Fami- ly grew into thatefteem r that it o- yer*topc the reft,and in time wrought it frielf into Sovereignty.-

For the Government of Florence ,it is mow Monarchical^ and Defpotical the Great Dukes will being abfo- lut<e % all great bufinefles pafiing through his knowledge and liking: fo that he wants nothing of a King r but the Name -, and that too he al- moin hath under the Name of Great Dfvke.

As for the Strength of this State, The it hath 20 Epifcopal Cities h 500 Strmtkl little Walled Towns ; ftrong Forts on the Confines : and can make an Army of Forty choufandFoorjhree thoufand Horfe,twelve Gallies, two Galleafles , two Galleons , and twenty Ships of War..

For the Gentry , its a Gentry dyed in grain • that is , its both vrktj and rich, The fubtil ayr of this Country , and jhe Academy


222


H E


Vo


Y A G E


of the Cm fc a have fharpeneddhem into much wit : and their good huf-

The bandry, and under.hand Traiffick

Gentry of hath put them notably into Piurfe.

Florence. For they think it no difgracce to have a banco at home , and rmeet daily atthe Exchange about Traiffick and Trading; while their Wives Lady it in Coach with their h;and-

. '^- - fomc Liveries. This makes tlhem hold up their Nobility byrheClhin, and no: only prcferves their Faimi- lies from (inking • but rather makes them fwira in a full Sea of Ho- nour : they being enabled thereby to buy Great Offices for their Chil- dren in other Courts , whereby chey often make them mount to the Higheft Dignities : when they are there, no man reproaches unto them the way they took to come thither, whether by Water , or by Land \> by Traffic^, orbythe'Sttwvfi by the School- Book.., QV Count- Book- If the French Gentry wou'd follow this way, they might hve Shoos and Stockings for their children f which fome of them want in the Countrey) wherewith to keep their Noble

Blood


22$


Of Italy.

Blcood warm in Winter. Riches.

lFor the Riches or this Prince , theey are about a Million and a half of Piaflri, or Crowns. Thefe are his; Annual Revenues ; beHdes his Jewels , Forfeitures ^ and his Datii: whiich laft , are of vaft profit to hirm.

TThe Interefl of this Prince is Interefl. mutch jiuftrian, and confequcntiy Spainijh •, yet not fo far , as to bre:ak with France , to which he opens his Ports and PalTages for his owin fake. He loves to have no Wair in Italy , becaufe he hath formething to lofe : and though he love to have the Pope his Friend , yet he cares not for having any of his Subjects Pope. A Pope of his Fa- mily, Clement the VII. having made him what he is , he is affraid a Pope of fome other Florentine Family would ftrive to make him what he was.

As for the Language of Florence The its pure, but in their Books, not Lan- in their mouths : They do fo choke guage. it in the throat , that its almoft quite drown'd there : nor doth it re- cover


The Ac a' demy of Wits,


The Learned

Men.


The Hi- fiorians.


224 The Voyage

cover it felf again till it come to Rome, where Lingua Tofcana in ihoc- ca Remana is a moft fweet languaige. The Academy of the Cm fed h:Uh much contributed to the enriching of this Language with choice words. The rich Dictionary made by this famous Company, and cal- led from them the CVa/^was forty years in compiling , but k willl be in vogue as long as men (hall fpieak Italian.

Finally , for the Learned Men of this Town in later times , they are thefe ; Marfilim Ficinus the Cbriftian Platonick $ Dante >and Petrarck. in Poetry : Gmeciardm in Bifiory : Poggh in raillery : Vefpu- cius in Geography : Accttrjiur in Law : Michael Angelo in Tainting \ Joannes Cafa in Practical Morality : Naclantm in Divinity : GaliUo in Agronomy : Dsni, Luigi,AUmanni> and others in Belle Letttre.

He that defires to know the Hi- flory of Florence , let him read (7** ovanni Villani , Afatthto Villani 9 Scipione Ammirato , and the Life of GranCoftmo.

Having


O -f Italy. 225 IHaving thus ken Fair Florence, we defired to fee Ligorne , and ma ike an excurfive journey by ?{- FiHoia. fltiia • Lucca, and P if a. Piftciais an rancient 1 own in a plain Country. Of it his Town is Clement the IX , tbe laft Pope , of the ancient Family of ■R {ij>i£lio(i: and that is all f can fay of it; for it looks baldly of it felf, either out of pure old nge , elfe by reafon of iits Neighbourhood to Florence, whiich hath fleeced it , or which I rather think , by reafon of its Civil Factions heretofore , which almoft ruined it quite.

Lucca is a pretty little Common* LhccaI wealth , and yet it deeps quietly within the Bofome of the Great fifties State. But that State may wifely fear none , which no State fears • and the Great Duke is unwil- ling to meafure his fword , or take up the Cudgels againfl: little Lucca, leaft the World fhould cry (hame upon him, and bid him meddle with his Mateh. This little Republic^ j ts Go- looked in my eye , like a perfeft ver nment Map of old Rome in its beginning.

Its


226 The Voyage

Its governed by a Confaloniero and the Gentry. The great Counfel con- fifts of 1 60 Citizens who are changed every year. Its under 1 the Emperors Protection ; and ic bath about thirty thoufand fouls i.m it. .Approaching unto it , it looked like a pure Low- Country Town , wk.h its Bricks Walls , Urge Rampart j fet round with Trees and deep Af oats round about the Walls. It hath ele- Jts v'en Baflions well guarded by the

Strength. Townsmen , and well furniftied with Cannons of a large fize. The Town is three miles incomp afi; it hath thirty thoufand Muskets , or half Mus kets in its Arfenal, eight thoufand Pikes, two thoufand Breil Pieces of Nluisk^t proof, and More of great Artillery- The whole State , for a need , can arm eighteen thoufand men of fer- Its Re- vice , and it hath about five hundred venues, thoufand French Livres a?y^ar* It was in this Town that C&far, Pom- />ey,and Crajfus met , ; and agreed a- mong themfelves that all things in Rome (hould pafs as they pleafed. The chief things to be feen here,

are


Ot Italy. 227 •are Y the Cathedral, calle d S. Mar- tiqffa whofeBifhop hath the Enfigns of ;ah ArchWifhcj), to wit, the ufe of the V allium r and the Crefs , and whcofe Canons in the Quire wear a Rocchet andCamail, andMitenof filk KkeBifliofs.

72... The Town-Heufe , or Senate Homfe '. where the Confa/ionero lives duriing the time of his Ch irge. J

5. The Church of S. Frediano belonging to the Canon Regulars , where , in a Chappel on the left hamd , is the Tcmb of S. Richard King of England y who died here in his Pilgrimage to Rome.

4,. The Augujtins Churchy/here is feen a hole where the Earth opened to fwallow up arblafphe- ming Gamefter.

Of this Town was Pope Lucius the IIT. the two famous men of this Town , the one for Soldie; y, the other for Learning, were, brave Caflritcio, and Sanftus fagninus*.

%mtmbnc\*n.

■ There are five Towns more be- longing to Lucca^o mt 3 Ca-magi6r }

'Viar'eggia


Pifa.


The Domo.


The

bending

Tower.


%i% The V o y a g h»

Viareggi* , Montignofo , Cafiiilione, and Minuceuwo.

From Lzca we went to ,Pifa y fome ten miles off. This was once the head Town of a flouriftitnjg Re- fubli k. . and then the Ntirmiantia of Florence , and fcornihg its yoke : but now it croucheth to it. It ftands in no very good ayre , and t here- fore hath been vexed with divers plagues. The grafs in the Streets of this Vniverfity , read me th is Le- cture, and I believed it. Whereupon I refolved to iky here one day one- ly, in which time I faw

i. The Domo whofe Canms of- ficiate in Scarlet like Cardinals. This is a neat Church for ftruiiture, and for its three Brazen Dores hi- floried with a fine Bajfo relievo. Its built after LamanieraTedeJcha , a fafliion of Building much ufed in Italy four or five hundred years ago , and brought in by Germans or Tedefchi , faith Safari.

2. Near to the Do no ftands." f if leaning may be called (landing) the bending Tower , fo artificially made , that it fcetns to be falling,

and


Of Italy. 22p

amd yet it ftandsfirm: Ruituraque femtper,ftat (mirxm) moles*

3. Cn the other fide of the Dtomo , is the Campo Santo a great fqtuare place cloiitered r.bout with a l<ow Cloifter curioufly painted. Its callled the Campo Santo, becaufe therein is conferved the Holy Earth brought from Hkmfalem in 50 Galliesof this Republick,*/* 1224: Thiefe Gallies were fent by the Re- pulb lick of Pifa, tofuccour the Em- per our JEwbarbe, in the Holy Land. : buit hearing of his death when they came thither, they returned home agiin loadtn with the earth of the Holy Land , of which they made this Campo Santoi

4. Some good Colleges there are Some but unfrequented then by reafon Colledges. of a late Plague: none running fa- lter from the Plague than Scholars, efpecially when it comes near to the Schools.

5. The Public^Lifoary is much The enriched with theaccefiionof <dl- Library, dm Manutim his Library.

6. The Garden of Simples may be The rare , buc we not undemanding this phjfick.

WtxhGarden.


2JO The Voyage Hearb Languige: haftened it o the Houfe of the Knights ofS. Steven. The 7. This is the only Order of

Knights Knighthood that I perceived in F/o- ofS.Ste- rence j and its very common. They phano. wear a Red Crofs of Satin upon their Cloaks , and prpfefs to fight ag-nnft the T«r4/. For this puirpofe they have here a good Houfe and Maintenance. Their Church is beau- tified without with a handfome F aetata of white Marble, snd with- in with Turkifh Enfigns and divers Lanterns of Capitanejfs Gallics. In this Houfe the Knights live in com- mon, and are well maintained. In their Treasury they (hew you a great Buckler all of Pearl and Diamonds \ won-in a Battle againtt. the Turks. Indeed Bucklers of Diamonds , do but fhow our Enemies where we are, and what they may hope for by killing us. They have in their Cancellaria , a Catalogue of thofe Knights who have done notable Service agunfl: the Turks •, which ferves for a powofu: exhortation to their fucceflVs , to do, and die bravely. In fine, thefe Knights may

mairy


o f Italy. 231

marry if they will, and live in their own particular houfes, but many of therm choofe celibate, as more conve- nient: for brave Soldiers; wives and childhren being the true impedimenta exercitus.

Heretofore , during the great dif- ordenrs of the Gttelfs and the Ghibe- lins, Anno 1282. this town was go- verned by Vgolin a proud man, who ruled here defpotically. This man inviting one day all his friends to a. great feafti began in the midft or" it to brag , that nothing was wanting to him.- Tes (find one of his belt friends, becaufe one who flattered him not) there's one thing yet Wanting to thee, Ugolin , tn wit , the Anger of God , which is not farr from thee. And it proved true , for prefemly after , the Ghi- belins ruftiing into the Pallace of V- golin ( chief oft he Guelfs) killed in his fight, one of his Sons and his nephew , and taking him with two other of his Sons and three iVephews they (hut him up in a ftrong Tower , and threw the Keys into krno : where the poor .man that bragged L even


Ligorn.


032 The Voyage

even now in a feaft, dyed toon af- ter of hunger ; having firft feen his children and nephews dye of hunger in his armes. A rare example to teach proud men, that there's often tut one day between a powerful man and a peer man ; between a great i^/and a great Fafi. Here in Pi/a were called two Councils, the one 1409, theothen 511.

From Fifa we went to Lig«r^ (Fertus Liburnw in Latin )thtoxi$\ a pleafant Forreft. This is the onely haven the Great Duke hath ; and the mouth which letteth in that food which fatteneth this State. We ftayed not long here, the feafon preiling us to be gone , and this taown being foon feen. For the 'town its but little, yet one of the jneateft haven towns a man can fee. Heretofore it was not fufferable by iTeafon of the bad air, but fince Ferdinandthefirli built it aneW,and dryed up ihe neighboring Fens (ga- thering much of the water into a cut channel , which goes from tienccro Fifa, and carryes great boats) the Townistw.ce as whole-

Ibme


4-


of It al y. 255

of Carthufians feated upon a round hill-, whofe feveral celles and little Gardens ( walled aboutj branching out on all fides, like feveral Bajli- w, made this Monajierj look like a ffmtttal Fort, or devout C*Y- tadel.

From hence pafflng through $ an c SAK'CaJfiatto, we arrived at nightat/^ w . PoggrBonzi, a little Town, famous for perfumed Tobacco in Powder , P*gf% which the Italians and Spaniards Bcnzi take farr more frequently then we , as needing neither Candle nor Tin- derbox to light it withal ,• nor u- fing any other Pipes then their mn Nofes.

From Voggi-Bwzi we came at Dinner to Siena This is the fecond Town of the Florentin State. It was heretofore a powerful Republic^ commanding threefcore miles into the Country, and now and then _. beating the Floremins: but at laft, after much ftrugling, this Woolftc °* Ste0a ceived the muzzle, and Siena is now * re *

he humble fervant of Ftorence.This Wool \'

happened Anno 1555.

This Town is feated in a very L iij whole-


Siena


e arms


'■


The Do- mo.


1^6 The Voy a ge

wholefome aire and foyl, and there- fore much frequented by Grangers. Its called Sena in Latin , from the Semites, people of Gaul, who com- ing into Italy with Brenms , built this town. The ftreets are all paved with bricks fet up edgeway, which makes the Town alwayes dry and neat. Its built high and low, with many high Towers in it, built anci- ently, in honour of its well defer- ving citizens , who had done fome fpecial fervice in the Republic!^ and this makes it feen thirty miles off on Romes fide. The people here are very civil, and even fociable too ,which together with the good air, the good exercifes for gentle- men, the good language , and the great priviledges, make many Grangers draw bridle here, and fommer it , at Siena, the Orleans of Italy.

The prime things I faw here were thefe.

i. i he D&mo, one of the neaceft Cathedrals of Italy , though it be built a la maniera Tedefcha, Its all of black and white marble within

and


of Ital y. 237

and without. The Frotitifpice is carved curioufly and fee thick with ftatues; Yec it ; wants a larger pazz,a before it , i tt* give it its full grace; The infide of this Church® very taking. Under the roof im- mediately runs a row of white marble-heads of ail the Pops till this time. The Pavement is the beft in the world •, and indeed too good to be trod on • hence they cover a great part of it with boards The r*r. hanforaely laid together, yet eafy Pave- to be taken up, to (hew Grangers ment. the beauty of it : Its of marble in- laid into pictures , and thofe very great ones : feveral'i^eat marble? offeverat colours making the Sha- dows and the lights v v and compo- fing all together fuch a new kind of Mofaick^ work , as all men ad- mire, but none dare finifti. This wprk was begun by Duccio Sanefe^ and afterwards carryed on by Do- ntinico Becctfumi, but not finished by him; faith Vafari. i hey told me here , that it was Mecchar\m y that made this pavement, but I had L jv sathes


The Li- brary.


% Kath ( .

of


rim jSicxa.


238 The-Voyage

rather believe Vafari. That part which they uncovered for us , re- presented the Hiftoryof Abraham going to Sacrifice his Son Ifaac; and the Hiftory of the Macoha- bees •, and the like. I confefs , I fcarce faw any thing in Italy which pleafed me better then this Pave- ment. On the left hand (within the Church) ftands the Library, painted with a rare Frefco, which is yet ravilhing and lively after two hundred years : Indeed, the brave ad ions of tsEneas Sylvias , (af- terwards Pope Pirn II, ) which thefe Pictures rcprefent, deferve to be painted by the Sun-beams. The Pidures are of the hand of Pietro Terugino, Raphaels Mafier:- but, when alls done, give me Books in a Library , not Pictures. In the Church you fee the Statues of A- lexander the III , of Pirn II , of PaulusY^nd of Alexander the Vll all Popes, a nd Na ti ves of Siena.

2. /faw here the feveral places which S. Katharine of Siena had made famous by her Devotions : as,

her


of Italy. 239 X

her Chamber, where (he received the holy ftigmata, now turned into a Chaff el : the Chamber where flie lived : with other memorials ot her devotions,in the Dominicans Churchy where they alfo fhew her head, and finger: her body being transferred to Rome, and lying in a little Chap- pel within the Sacriftyoi the Domi- nicans, at the Minerva.

3. The other things ordinarily other ra- fhown here, are the great Hofpital : ritits. the houfe of Pius JI, of the Family of the Piccolomini : the great Piaz,- z,a : the pillar with the Wolf of Brafs upon it : the Marble Pillar as you come into the Town from Flo- rence, with the Armesof the Em- pire and of Portugal upon it ; be- caufe here it was that the Emperour met Eleomra cf Portugal, and Mar- ryed her in prefence of *ALwas Syl- vius then Archbifhop here,and after- wards Pope Pius II.

I f;w here the Academy cfwits, uhlkdgli Intronati: why they fhouid 7/y ( ^ take that ;TLbitious name I know cadtmycf not, u:ilefs it be in reference to wits* the faying of a Philofipkr, who L v f d


140 The Voyage

fad, that then finally Kingdomes (h'ould be happy, when either Phf* lofcfhers (hould be chofen Kings, or Kings played the Philofphers. Indeed Arifiotle holds that they that are ftrongof body, are made to ferve and tug at the oar of Commands : and they that areftrongin wit, arc born by nature to (it at the helm ^and comm ndosherj.

5, This Town hath furnifhed £he. Church with a. General Council of an hundred and thirty Bifhops , oiled by Nicolas the third : with three great Saints. S Bemardin re- former of the Minorites-^ St. C atha- rine the holy Virgin; and Beatus Cblumbams, Inflitutor of the Or- der of 1 lie fefuati , a mtn of jgreat learning and Sanctity.- with five good Topes, to wit, Alexander the IIT, of the houfe of Bandinelli- PitislL of the h oufe of Viccolomini ; V^aulus V. of ihe houfe of Burgefi\ and Alexander the VII. of the hoirife of Chifi: And -in fine, it hath ffutni- fhed the world with 2 champions in \f\\\\\i\^Ambrofitis Veliti for C,atha- pmtsX who wrote Icarned'y againft

Lot the*'


o


f Italy. 341


Luther and \Erafmus ; and Adri* m'Pfiliti who wrote againft Igno- rance by his learned Dtttionarj.

He that Would know in particular *j-y u r the Hiftory of Siena, let him read ft or y, Orlando Malevolto.

From Siena we went to Bon Con- v&ttOy Tornieri^ San £uirico jncon- fiderable places upon the rode, and fo to Rodicefino a ttrong Caftle upon Radico- a high hill built by Defiderim King fi m * of the Longobardsy This is the laft place of the Florentine State ,but not theleaft inftrength.

Dining here at the Great T)u\es Inn at the bottom of the hill, we went to lodge at Aquapendente , which isfome 12 miles off, aud the firft town of the Popes ftase. —

This Town ftands upon a hill, from which the waters trickling -^#4-1 down foftly are faid to hang pendens there, and give ic the name of Aquapendente Of late this town ts 'made a Bfliops Seat by the Demoli- tion of Caflro , and the removal of the Bifhops Seat from thence hither ,which happenened upon this JL vj occa-


€kw. jta

not 25.

ma, 2.


Bdje»(t.


242 The Voyage

occafion. Cafiro was a Town be- longing to the Duke ofVaMtr* 9 thi~ thee .'Pope Innocent the X. fent a good Bifhopto govern that Flock •, bat, the Bifhop upon his arrival be- ing killed there, the ?ope fent Gwtc Vidman (General then of the Church ) with order to demolifh ► Caflrd \ and he himfelf transfer ed the Biihops Seat from thence to A q pi apt ndente % . and all this accor- ding to the Canon Law, which or- dains, that that City, which kills its Bilhop ihould be deprived of the Biihops Seat ever after.

From Aqaapendente we came to a little Town called San Lorenzo , and not long after to Bd/ena^ an- ciently called V*bs Volfinenfwm. Here it was that happened the fa- mous Mimcle in confirmation of the Real pre fence of 'Chrifis Body and Blood in the Biffed Sacrament jwhicb happened Anno 1263, and which give occafion to Pope Vrbaw the IV to command that the Feaft of Corpus Chrifli fliould be kept U'Jj chg ever after. The Mi-

.•ra de


na.


o fItaly. 243

  1. acle is related By Leandro AWerti

the Camden of Italy, and by learn- ed 0»nphrius Yanmnus , in the life Of Urban the IV.

We paffed alfothat morning by xkLah the fide of the Lake of Bolfena • in fg /r e J the middle of which is a little Ifl'ani in which hmalafmrita Queen' of the Ofirogoths, a woman of lingular parts, wa6 miferably murthered by her neareft kindred, Heres alfo a little Convent otCapucins.

Having pafled along this Lake a Bofco great while, we entered at laftinto HtUrne,. a. Wood called anciently Lttcus Vo/finenfium^nd now^Bofco Hekrrto. It was formerly a dangerous paffige for Bandito's: but now its free from danger,(ince Sixtus <£uintHs purged .. the Ecelejtaftical State of that Fer- min 9 by making- a Law, that whofo- ever fhould bring in the headof a Butndito, (hould have pardon, impu- nity, and recompence too of fome hundred Crowns, whereupon the Bandits foon deftroyed one another. From this Wood we foon came to jMotttefiafcone ftanding upon a hill. Monttf- Itc a Bifhops Seat^ and famous a/cone.

for


244 TheVoyage

for excellent Mufcattllojvfae;&Xi& this wine is iamou9 for having kil- led a Dutchman here who drunk too much of it. The ftory is true and thus. A Dutchman of condition tra- velling through Italy, fent his man before him alwiyes,with a charge to look 'out the Inns where theibeft Wine was, and there write upon the Wall of the Inn the word EST, that is to fay, Here it is The fer- vant coming hither a little before his Matter, and finding the Wine excellently good , wrote upon the Wall EST y EST, EST, fig- nifying thereby the fuperlative goonefs of this Wine. T he Matter arrives, looks for his Mans hand- writing y and finding three ESTS, is overjoyed \ In he goes, and re- folyes to ly there : and he did fo in- deed : for here he lyes ftill , bury- ed firft in wine, and then in his grave, For drinking too much of this good Wine, he dyed here, and was buried by his servant , in a Church here below the Hill, with this Epitaph upon his Tomb, m \ de by the fame Servant, Propter. &S T,

EST,


of Italy. 245

EST, EST, herns mem mortims eft. It was here alfo, that the gallantry of the brave Roman General Camii- Ins appeared very much. For while he was befieging this Town 5 cal- led then Phalifcum or Vhakris , a treacherous School '-mafter having brought unto him the chief of the yong youths of the Town, whom he had deceitfully drawn unto the Roman Camp , under pretence of taking the aire abroad : by which means Camlllns might have frigh- ted their parents to an unworthy rendition : the brave Roman who fcorned to overcome by any other way then that of Gallantry, cr-ufed the School- mafter to be Gripped and his hands to be tyed behind his back, and to be led into the Town again, with the little youths whipping him as he went, till he had brought them home agiin. This noblenefs of Camillas took the Town pre- sently, becaufe it took with the Town/men • who ndmiring the Ko' mjtn Generoftty , fubmitted willing- ly to Camillas, who' had chofen

r.a-


1^6 TkE Voyage

rather to take Towns by his own Valour , t then by other mens ini- quity: Indeed, ( as Valerius Mar ximus faith) it did not become Rome built by the Son of Mars , to take Towns otherwife then Martially.

From Montcfiafconc we went down the Hill by an eafie defcent Viterbo, unto Viterbo- This is an Epifcqpal Seat, {landing in a wholfome aire , and therefore called Viterbmm r as ic were, Vita Vrbium. Here are excel- lent Fountains of water,and ftoreof them ; bnt, its pity none of them run with good Wine, to make a mends for the bad, which are moft of them Vim cotti. I he two fa&ions here of the Gatti and the Maganeft, (thefe ftanding for the Vrftm,t\\o(z for iheColomeft) ruined heretofore Viterbo over and over again. In the Domo there are the Torches of four Popes, as alfo in the Frjincifcuns Church fome Tombs of Popes^nd of S.Refa.-you fee the body of that Saint yet emire, though buryed above 100 years ago. She lies along in her Xombe, and is feen by the drawing


of Italy. 247

of a curtain from before her:

Heres an Academy ofcwits called ^he 4. CU Oftinati, to ftiew perchance,that ca j m y c f a man cannot be learned with- wj ts f ' out obftinate labour and paines. Hence the Poet makes the learned man to be one who multum fudavit C7- alftt : and Perjtta tellt us, that his delight was to grow pale with obftinate night fludy : Velle fuum CMque f/?,&C

At rne noUurnli juvat impalhf-

cere chartis. About a mile from Viterbo ftands a neat Church and Convent \ called Madonna del Querco , and as farr again beyond that, a fine houfe.witn a Garden of water- works and Foun- tains, worth feeing.

From Viterbo ( being upon our own horfesj we went to fee Capra- Capraro- rota, a {lately Houfe belonging to I** the Duke of Parma. The Houfe is held to be one of the finefl in Italy for Architetture. It ftands a little out of the Travellers rode, but not of his way : for its much in a mans way to fee fuch a lovely houfe as this, It (lands upon the fide of a

bill*


248 The VoYAGrE

hill, and from on« of the Bi ato- nies it (hews you Rome fome two and thirty miles of. Its built in a pentagon ( if I temember HvellJ without , and rouid within. The Chambers for all that, are fqmare, and well proportioned. The chief of thefe chambers are painted by the hand of Pietro Orbifta^ florifti- ing thus upon the noble a&io>ns of Pantos I [ I. Among the mother chambers , the wkiff>eri*g chamber is curious, for four men here (land- ing, each one in one of the four corners of this great chamber, hear 1 diftinctly what any of them whif- pers "m a tow tone in his corner , their faces being turned to the wall h and yet thofe that ftand in the midit ot the chamber cannot h:ar it. The other chamber is no lefs curious, where ftanding in the midft of it, and'ftamping hard with your foot, thofe that are without at the door , think they hear the cracks or repom of fiftols. The other roomes here alfo, as the Kit chin all of one (tone if; the low Cave alfo with the pillar »irt it,' cut like- wise


of. Italy. 249

wife out of a reck, and bearing up the whole pav^ enC °f tne round Court which lets light into this Cave by divers round grates of iron, are worth the beholding : Then the Garden upon the Hill-fide with the great variety of waterworks, grotts, and wetting fports, are all carious things. Having walked this garden about 5 you'l defire after fo much wa- ter, a little wine, which will not be wanting to you,from the rare Cellar lying under the greztTerratfe before the houfe^nd perchance you'l think the Veine-workf here as fine as the wa- terworks.

From Caprarotavit fell into our way again at Monterofa from whence pafling by Bacano , and the Monte- Hofieria del Storto, we came at **/<*. night to Rome.

All the way from Monterofa to Borne almoft. belonged antiently to the Vdentes ffo called, fiith Be- roftis^ from their carrying about with them in Carts, all their goods) Nea r toBacan is a Jake out of which runs the River Van* , antient- entJy called Cremera , near unto Varc*.

which


2$o The Vo y a g e

which the Vettntes killed in one battle, three hundred Fabii % that is, the whole family of the Fabii (who had vowed themfelves to death for the Commonwealths fervice) except one little boy nOr able to bear arms, from whom Vabins Afaximm, the terror of Hannibal, andRomes buckc /frdefcended.

  • Upon this rode alfo flood antient- 4

Vm. ly the town VeU t a town which held D out ten Summers againfl: the Ro- mans , and ftood in need or no lefs man then Gamillus to take it. This town was once fo great, that Rome being deftroyed almouY by the Gauls , the Senators held a Con- sultation in the Comitium, whether they fhould retire to Veil, and leave Rome quite, or rebuild again Romes walls j but during this Con- futation, the troopes returning out of garrifon , arrived by chance into the Comitittm^ where the Centurion entring, and not thinking the Se- , xators had been there , cryed out Valer. t0 t h e Standard-bearer* Signifer MaxJ.i. fiatue fivnum , hie of time manebi- € 'S' mm j wnich words the Senators

hear-


of Italy. 251

hearing, cryed out to one another ; ■AccipmHs omen ; and prefently laid afide all further thought of retiring to Veil.

Some twelve miles before we came to Rome , we faw the Cupola of St. Peters Church- and were as glad to fee it a farr off , as the weary Tro- jans in *s£neas his Company, were glad to fee Italy afeerfo much wan- dering. Some few hours after, ha- ving paffed bymoldTombe, which fome call Nero's Tombe, and over the Ponte Molo (of which more in my 2. Part) we entred into Rome by the Via Flaminta, and Porta del Po- fttlo.


The End of the firft Part,


THE VOYAGE

OF ITALY:

OR A COMPLEAT IOVRNEY

Through italy.

tHE SECOND PARt

WITH

?HE CHARACTERS OF THE

People , and the defcription of the chief "fovpnes-t Curcbef)MonaJhries, Tombes-, Libraries, Pallaces^Villaj ^Gardens, PWttres-yStatueSiAntiquities :

AS ALSO OF THE INTEREST,

Government, Riches, Force,&c.of all the Princes.

-By Richard Lassels Gent. Opw fojlhumum.

Corrected and fet forth by his old friend and fellow Traveller S. W.

PRINTED AT PARIS

By Vincent dh Moutier, M. DC. LXX



THE SECOND PART

OF THE VOYAGE

OF ITALY.

iElN G arrived at Rome, we lodged in an Inn for three, or four days, till we had found out , and fur- ni(hed, a libufeto our \ fatisfaclion. That done I began presently my Inquefi^ and made Hue and Cry after every little thing which time teemed to have robbed us of. But as we approach not to great perfonsin Italy without informing our fclves firft of their titles, that- we may know how to fiile them : fo before I bring my Reader ac- quainted with Rome, I think, it not Aa 2 am ifs



How Rome is


X.om.% la Santa.


4 The Voyage

amiffe to tell him how this great City is commonly called.

And although -Rome were ancient- ly fiyled the Mead, and Miftreffe of the world i an Earthly GoddeJJe ; The Eternal City j the Compendium ff the World ; The Common Mother, and Nurfe of all Vertues •, (while (he vns yet Heathen ■> ) Yet fin ce her Ladyftiip was Baptized and became Cbriftian ( though (he have had great Elogies made of her by the Holy Fathers, ) I rind no Title Co honourable to her as that of Roma la Santa , Rome the Holy j which is given her by the Common Troverb j and common Proverbs are nothing elfe but the obfervation of common Senfe : For whereas the other Cities of Italy are Proverbially called either Fair? Gentile, Rich, Prowl, Fatte, or Great ; as Florence , Napier, Venice , Genua , BJogna , Milan i Rime only is (tiled the Holy : and this defervedly, for many rea- fons.

Firft, For being the Epifcopal Seat ot 5.. Peter and his Succejfourr, i to the number of £40 and odd Popes.

2. For


Serm.i. de Katctl.


Of Italy 5

2. For having been watered at . the rootes by the preaching and blood of the two glorious Apoftles. S. Peter and S- 2afd A Which nude £. Leoy fpeaking to^Msc>/bfthefe two great AiolUes , marie ■ her this Apojtropbi. Hi jant qui uMjp ft. have- glori.itn frovexerunt, vt gois Petri & fanUa^o\u}us lUUus'f. clvitas Sa- Paul ' cerdotilis &J£egij, per fac-am Beati fetri ferlem caput odis rfecia-> la~ tius pr<efideres religiove dhina qujm dominatione terrena.

3. For having been looked upon in all ages, as the Center of Catholic^ Communion : and the place where the Matrix and Radix Ecdefia, the Mother Church and the Radical Church ( as S. Cjprian calls her) did rlourithalwayes.

4. For having been warned and purged in the blood of fo many thoufand Martyrs in the primitive times, which even baptized Rome a new, and made it be called by Holy Fathers Neva Sion: a New Sion.

5. For having fo many Saints

A a 3 bodies


Great Cbarttiet in Home


6 The Voyage

hed'us lying 'in its Churches i and Tq miny Churches within its pre- cincts, which are above three hun- dred in all.

6- For having been the happy occafion of converting mod of the Nations of Europe, and many others out of Europe, unto the faith of Chrlji , by Preachers fent from t lie nee.

7. For having been the Depo- (nary X asS, Jrentus calls her) of the Holy dpoftolical Traditions and doc'trine, which have alwayes been conferved in her Church.

8. For having alwayes conftrvecC the Sjmbdle of the creed inviolably C faith S. Hierome).

Befides thefe forefaid reafons, Rome may defervedly be called Holy , for the many and lingular acts of Charity which are done there dayly more than in any other place. Charity is the Queen of Vermes sand if ever I faw this Queen in her throne, it was in Rome. For there I faw no evil, either of body-, ' , or


O f Italt 7

or mind, but it had its remedy, if curable i at leart its comforts if in- curable.

For the firjl, towit , Evils ff emdie * body, it hath its Hofpitals, and thofe-;?^^. many , and many of thofe are a» "Hofpitals in folio* Btfides no Pilgrim N

comes to Rome, but he„fmdes Rome* as Adam did Paradife, with the table covered, and bed made r£ady for him. Poor young girks find por- tions either for husbands or nunne- ries, according to their choice ; In- fants whom cruel and unlawfull mothers, like wolfes, expoie to death, fame receives to life > and Mtre- thinks it but a fuitable Antipelar- tricts lu2 gefts to nourifh wolfes children , $£*;££ feing a Jhe-tvolfe nourished her Luparia. Founder being expofed by men. Augufi'm^ Fooles too and Madmen, Co much the ie &wu more miferable, as not being io Deul ' l8 ' much as fenfible of their condition ( for fape calarnitatis folatium f(i nojfe foriem Juam ) have here thofe that take care of them. Poor men?Z[ nt ' find H>fpitals when they are fick > and Gentlemen, whom nature hath not exempted from common mi~ A a 4 jerks


Curt.


S T he Voyage

Series, Kome exempts from common

Bofpitals j and not being able to /.give them better health, me gives

f hern at lean" better accommodation in their ficknefs. Here you (hall find an Apothecaries /hop, founded by • Cardinal Francis Barberin, with a yearly revenue of twelve thou- fand crownes, and this for ever \ to furnifh the poor with phyfick gratis.

Here you (hall find the Hofpital of the H)ly Trinity which in the Jubily year of Clement the VIII, is tound to have treated at table in one day fifteen thoufand pilgrims: and in the whole year five hundred "thoufand. The laft Iubily year 1 650, I my felf was prefent one day,when the faid Hofpital treated nine thou- fand Pilgrims that day : the Pape himfelf ( Jnnoctnt the tenth ) and Yvenvt man V °f &* Cardinals having been tionh.nb rhere t0 w *& the feet of the pil- •«»tfo/p-gri m s 5 and to ferve them at table. tal in Add to this, that every nation hath Row. here its feveral Hofpital and Refuge, with Church and Churchmen to ferve it. As the Englifh Colledgt , once

an


Of I r alt 9

an Ho/pital for the Englijh '. That of the Anitna y for the Germans : That of the S. Lewis ■> for the French: That of S.Iacomofot the Spaniards » That of S. Antony of fadua y for the Tortuguefi : That of £• lulian for the F lemmings: That oiS.Am- brefe for the Lombards : That of S. Jtf0 for the Britons : That of 5. Hierome for the Iliyrians : That of 5. Mzry Egyptiaca tor the Arme- nians : That of S. Stephana for the Hungarians : That of 5. Stanifljus for the Tolonians. Befides a world . ofothers. Nay almoft every ci)^ ration or ZWy o/ artijans have their Hbfpital among themfelves, which they maintain. In the Cburtb of the l2Ap](h they choofe yearly 12 ■ noblemen & one Prelat who iscalled their Priar .* Thefe go into every corner of Rome to feek out poor men who are afliamed to beg, and yet are in great want. Thefe bafbfil poor men put their names into a coffer well locked upand ftanding in a publick place, by which meanes thefc charitable noblemen find them out and relieve them,

A,a'5 / What.


r


jo TheVoyage What {hall I fay of thepublick cha- rity of the Pope bimlcli well known to all i Befides a world of private charities which he gives by hisSe- creto Limofwiero to thofe that are afhamed to beg publickly.

The like do many Cardinal* by their own hands, and in that high imeafure, that Cardinal Mont alto . ( to name no more) is found by his books of Accaunts-, to have given away above a hundred and (even thoufand crownes to the poor. 0£ which pious Cardinal I cannot omit to write thj[s following ftory, as I havelearncdit from very good re- lation. jHfttge-u £ poor widow of Rome T/S""" mother of one onely daughter ct both young and hand(bme,got her " living honeftly by her owne, and "her daughteis labour i and rubbed "out poorly , but yet honeftly : "Now it happened, that this "widow falling fick, and her a daughter having enough to do to " tend her , their work went on ' ■ fo faintly, and their gains came 44 info flowly, that at her recovery,

" (he


•fGharity


Of Italy* j x

cc /he found her -purfe as much t( fpent, as her perfon. Whereupon c< being called on for the quarters " rent of her chamber, & not know- ing what to do, fhe was advifed <{ by her Confeffariut to go to Car- " ttinal Mont alto {^who gave pub> " lick audience thrice a week to all ct the poor in Rome) and to beg as " much of him, as would pay her " little debt. Prelfed therefore by " her great neceflky, & emboldened " by the fame of the charity of this "good Cardinal, /he entred the "palace, and found him in his "great hall, giving ear and almes Cv toall thofe that could give him "a good account of their wants. tC In her turn (he, and her young, " daughter approached unto him . «« fitting at his tables end * and ex- " prefling modeftly her wants caufed " by her three months ficknefs , " (he humbly befought his Emi- " nence t to give her five crowms for 4t to pay the rent of her chamber, "and pacify her Landlord who " otherwife threatened to put her " out of doors. The Cardinal feeing A a 6 a?


I* ^ H E VOTAGE

"as much modefty in her looks <c a$ ficknefTe in her countenance* and liking well , that fhc tC did not go about to fright him " into charity , by urging the " danger of being forced one day "toexpofe her daughter to lewd " courfes ( a common Rhetorical " rigure of beggars in all countries) •'wrote down in a little paper, "50 crowncs to be given to hen " and folding up the paper, he bid "her carry it to his fervant below ct at the entrance of the pallace, u who kept the Cardinals bills and '" payed the contents of them. She tC did fo with humble prayeri of .** thankfullnefs -i and the ftrvant . " upon fight of the paper, prefent- "ly threw her 50 crownes, and tc bid her make an acquittance for "it. The poor woman feeing 50

  • ' crownes counted outforherwho

" had asked but 5 ■> and fearing lea/1

    • thc fervant upon light of her

u handfome daughter , might have " done this by way of bribery, told

    • him fmartly , that though fhc

?wcre poor, *yet flis was honeft,

    • aHA


Of It alt 1}

"and that (he fcorncd to go by <l one corruption to another. The " honeftfervant civilly replyed, that "he underftcod not her words : nor "I your deeds, (aid (he, I asked tc the Cardinal 5 Crowns, he grant- ed me my requeft, and why Ct then do you offer me 50 Crowns? w The honefl fervant to fhew his tc innocency, (hews hismaflers hand Cl writing importing 50 Crowns.

  • i Then .your mailers hand, faid

" (lie , for halt , out (hot his in- dentions : I asked him for five " Crowns and more , in confetence <c I cannot take. The' fervant,

  • c though he knew his matters ge-

" nerofity , yet to take all fcruple "from the poor woman, locked up "his money and papers, and de- <c fired the poor woman to go up "with him to the Cardinal again • c to clear this doubt. - The Car' u dlnal hearing from this fervant M the whole pa(Tagc, and that the

  • c poor woman was affraid his hand
  • c had been mifiaken in writing

" 50 Crowns inftead of 5 •> 'tis true, ^'faid he* my . hand was N mifti-

kca


Remedies for evils of the mini.


Ofymttn- duas a- pud Hero dot*


Publicly Libraries


14 The Voyage

    • ken indeed > and calling for his

" pen again as if he would have <; corrected the cypher which made " the bill 50, he put in an other "cypher, and Co made it 500 " Crowns > reading it nowraloud tC to his fervant and the poor " woman i commanding hertobe- " ftow her daughter with that "moneys and ifk were not enough,

    • to come again t©him, and he

W would make it up. Ktrue Roman " Charity.

As for thofe Charities which concern the mind, if a great King of Egypt wrote over his Library door, Medicina Animi ,) FbjjicJ^ for the mind, here in Rome I rind ftore of fuch Phyfick in Libraries, ■ Colledges, Monasteries, and devout companies* And hrft for Libraries j yoH (hall rind here(beiide the Li- braries of every religious houfe ) the incomparable Library of the Vatican ( of which more below ) thofe alfo of Cardinal Barberin j of the T>nke of Altemps > that of the Sapienza i sjid that of the Augujiins \ the laft two being open to all men every

day


Of Italy . 15

day, with a courteous Gentleman to reach you any book, and a learned Manufcript in Folh addref- llng you to the authors that treat of any fubjecl: you defire to be inform- ed of, which affords great help to the painful ftudent. Then the Colledges coUedw, and Seminaries of almoft all nations where youths are both fed and bred up in learning for nothing.

Add to this the variety of Mo- nasteries and Convents, both of men Msttaffe- and women, where they may hide ries, themfelves fecurely d»»ec tranjeat i- niquitas. ■

Then the taking away of young mufes girls , at ten or twelve years old J'«r young from their poor fufpe&ed mothers , G,rls * 8c the bringing them up vertuoufly under careful matrons of known Vertue, till they either choofe the Nuptial flammeum, or the facred Velum.

Then the Remedies for ill mar- Remedies tied women, whofe unadvifed/ 0f ia choice (marriages being often made J^^f for intereft) or incompatible hu- mors force to a corporal feparationi and Ieli fuch unfortunate women

fhould


i5


Thi Voyage


Should cither live incontinently indeed, or give fufpicion of it, they are provided here with a houfc where they live retiredly under Lot


A.


m


and Key, till they either reconcile themfelves again to their husbands; or upon juft occafions, leave them for ever. Over the door of this houfe is written. Per le dome mat mari- tate, the C6H- Then the Convent of Penitent vent of whores ( that none may perifh in ftunttits- fo me who have a mind to be faved) called Santta Mtria Magdalen* in Gorfo; where many of thofe poor Magdalen? have led fuch peniten- tial lives ( as the bloody walls of their Celles , caufed by their fre- quent difciplining , (hewed to all Rome in a conflagration of that monaftery ) that Pattlus Quirtus himfelf being informed of it, would needs be carried thither, to fee thofe bloody chambers from the ftreet, and having feen them, wept for joy* and I can fcarce hold from crying out: felhc cut-


fa


What (hall I fay of the Cengrt-


Of Italy 17

gttgmon of Advocates and Attomies, cUntj of iuitituted in Keme.whtxe they meetf*^'^ once a week to examine poormens law fuites ■, and either dehort them from proceeding inbadeaufes, or profeaue good caufcs for them at the coft of this Congregation ?

What (hall I fay of feveral pious Clergy men ( efpecially the good Brokf** Priejh of the Oratory, happy in/jj^ this employment) who make it their- ' task to reconcile difagreeing fa- milies , and with great zeal and piety exhort firft the one, then the other of the parties, intervene be- tween them, (peak well of the one to the other , clear and take away jealous mifonderftandings, and in fine, piece again broken neigh- bors?

What (hall I fay of the four Ser- mons daily in the Chiefa nova by Tour f*r- the molt learned and good priefl of W0M "%- the Oratory, who being moft of them lj , tn one learned men as Baro^im , Bofms ,£„„,,. Juftinianus, Kenaldus &c. and able to flye high, yet in their fermons (loop to a low pitch, and a popular facile way, which aims rather at convcrfion,


i8


The Voyage


Weekly j'ertnons to the JelJOS.


converfion, than oftentatiom and doth great good; though it make little noifc i Vominus in lent aura.

What (hall I fay of the weekjiy ftrmon to the Jews upon Saturday i where they arc bound to be prefent to the the number of three hundred, where the Pop entertains a learned Treacher to convince- them out of their own fcripturesi and thofe that are converted are provided for in the Hojpital of the Catechumens, till they be throughly inftrudfed «* I have feen divers of them bapti- zed.

I What ^hall I fay of the Schofe 2b$(oh~Upi* i n Rome , a company of good. Religious men, who look like Jefmtes, fave only that they go bare- foot in fandals ? Thefe good Fathers make a profeflion to teach poor bojes gratis their firft grammar ru- diments , and to make them fit to be fent to the Jefuits Schools j and having taught them thus in the Schools jhzy accompany them home in the jlreets , left they mould cither learn waggery as they go

home,


Tim.


Of Italt 19

home , or practice it. Nay thcfe humble men make it their profefc fion not to teach higher Schools , where there might be fome profit and honour, at leaft forne fatisfadi- on and pkafure : but they content themfelves to go bare foot, and teach only the lomr Schoels and firft rudiments '•» by which they neither grow wifer, nor richer : A ftrange mortified trades But Beati panares {piritx.

What (hall I fay of the Fathers *j^*? ef the Agonizants, whofc vocation t be Ago- is, to be the Seconds of thofe who nkants fight againfl death it felf > that is, wnofe profefSon is, to affirt thofe that are in the Agonie of death » and to help them to make then thofe pious Atts, which Chrifiiaus mould moft of all then rouze themfelves up to ?

What can be faid more ? yes Rome not content, to have fed, to have bred, to have converted, bap- tized, reconciled the livings and aflifted the dyings (he extends her charity even beyond death it felf, and hath inftituted a pious Confra- ternity


20- The Voyage

Mom. Mjrtl > whofe office is to bury the dead, and to vifit thofe that are condemned, and by praying with them, exhorting them, and accom- panying them to the execution , help them to die penitently, and bury them being dead, and pray for , their fouls being buried ; After which, charity can do no more to man, and therefore I will conclude,. that feeing fuch lingular ads of cha- rity, both for body and mind, arc praftifed no where fo much as ki Rome, its true which J -a/Turned above , that Rome deferves to be called, the H>lj.

Having faid thus much of the title of Rome, I will now make my Reader better acquainted with her, by defcribing the particularities which I obferved here. And that I may not ramble in writing of Rome, as molt men do in vifiting of it, I 'will begin at the Bridge cal- led now fonte Angeh, and from thence take the whole gyro of the City in order. Arriving then at the Bridge caHed anciently .


Ptnte


Of 'It a lt at

anciently Tons Mitts becaufe it was built by the Emperor Mint Adri- anti, but now called Tonte Angelo becaufe it was upon this Bridge that S. Gregory the Great Taw an Angel upon the Motet Adriani (heathing his fword after z great plague :'here we faw the iiately new decoration of Iron work with the twelve Marble fiatues let upon it by this prefent Tope Ckment the IX. and looking down into the river on the left hand, we faw the mines of the 'triumphal Bridge.

This bridge was called the Tri- rhf r ^ umphal Bridge , becaufe over it , vmf hal Triumphs were accuftomed to pafs Bridge. anciently to the Capitol. This made it fo proud, that itfeomed that any ruilicks, or country fellows, fhould pafs over it > and got a Decree if the Senate for that purpofe- But pride will have a falli and the proud Triumphal Bridge hath got fuch a great one, that there's but juft fo much of it lefr, as to fliew, w T here it was once i fo true is the faying of Aufmus, Mjrt etiam Saxis nminibuscut veriiu

At


22


The Voyage


At firft the Romans were modeft enough in their Triumphs, as in all other things : hence Camillus was content with four white horjes in his Chariot i but afterwards luxe and excefs baniftiing out of the City old modefty, they began to ftrivc who mould be the inoft vain in this point. Hence Tompey was Vanity in drawn in triumph i by four Ele- triumphs, phants > MarJ^- Antony , by four m Lyons; New by four Hermopbro* dim , which were all four both horfes and mares : Heliogabulus hy four lygers '•> Aurelianus by fix' ftagj > and Firmicus by eight Of- triches*

At the end of Tontt Angela Hands the 'Cafiel Angelo, fo called becaufe, as I faid before, S. Gregory in a folema Troceflion during the plague faw an Angel upon the top of Moles Adriani fheathing his Sword, to ilgnify) that God's anger was \appeafed. Before this Miracle hap- pened, it was called Moles Adriani becaufe the Emperor Adrian was buried here. It was built anciently in a round form of vaft fiones,

going


Cafiel

dngelo.


Of Italy 23

going up in three rows, or flories lefTer and kfler, till you came to the top j where flood mounted that great pine-apple ofbrafs guilt, which we fee now in the garden of Bel- vedere. Round about it were fet in the wall great marble Y hilars T and round about the feveral flories flood a world of Statues. This Moles be- ing found a flrong place, Belli/arm put men into it to defend it againft . ihe Gothes&nd they defended them- felves in it a great while, by break- ing the Stames in pieces and throw- ing them upon the heads of the Gotbes that befieged them. Since that time diverfc Topes have turn- ed it into a formal Gaftle. Boniface the VIII, Alexander the VI, and Vrban the VIII, have rendered it a regular Cajtle, with five flrong bajlions, flore of good Cannons, and a conftant garifon maintained in it. From this Caftle I faw divers times thefe -Fortifications i and be- low divers great pieces of Artillery made of the brafs taken out of the ? anthems and they (hewed us one great Cannon which was made of

the


Tbi long C$rridor from the Pallaee to the CaflU,


24 The Voyagi

the brazen naiks only that nailed that brafs to the walls of the Pan- theon \ the length and form of thofe nails, is feen upon that Cannon, to (hew unto pofterity how great they were, with thefe words upon iti ex cUvis trabialibus Portions Agripp*. In this Caftle are kept prif oners of ft ate; the $ millions laid up there by Sixtus ^uintusi the Tofts rich triple Crowns called Regni, and the chief Regifters of the Roman Church, From the top alfo of this Caftle you fee diftin&ly the long Corridor, or Gallery, which runs from the Popes Pallaee of the Vatican to this Caftle, for the Popes ufein time of danger. It was made by Pope Alexander the VI. and ufed by Clement the VII. who by it got fafe into the Caftle from the fury of the German Soldiers who being many of them Luthtrau* , fwore they would eat a piece of the Pope.

From hence entring into the Borgo We went towards S. Peters Church, and in the way fteptinto

the


Of Italy 25

tbc Church of the Carmelites called Sunt a Maria Tranfpoxtitta , where in s * Ht * a Chappei on the left hand as you **™_* enter, are fecn two pillars of ftcney^,,^ enchafed in wood, to the which 5. Peter and S. faul were tyed when they were whipped before their death , according to the Romans cuftome. Here's alfo the head of S. Bafil the Greek Father furnamed the Great. Here's alfo a curious picture of S. Barbara in the Vault , by Cavalier Gij'eppe*

Soingon from hence, we came preiently to the Pallace oiCampeggz, Co called becaufc it belonged to Car- dinal Campeggi the Popes Legat in England, to whom Henry the VIII gave it. Heretofore it belonged to ^ f the Englilh Embafladors, and was E»glifi one of the belt in Rome, both for be- Emfaf* ing near the Popes Pallace, and alfo.^*^ r, for that it was well built by famous PaR * te * Bramantt. It belongs now to Car- dinal Colonna.

Over againfi; it ftands a little Piazza^ with arhnc fountain, and joining to it a little Church called,


Sam Jactmt Scoxza £b


ScOKX.*

Cavalli, in CtfvaW.' which


23


The Voyage


which, under an Altar on the right hand, Ifawthe/r<we upon which Abraham offered to facrihee his Son IJaac and under another Altar on the left hand, the jione upon which our Saviour was placed when he was prefented in the Temple. Both thefe were brought,or fent to Kome, by Helen mother of the Emperor Con- ft antine the great.

Prefently after, you come to the

  • 6»Pcr- Piazza of St. Peter , built round
  • rc#o/t&* about with a noble Portico of free-

itone born up by four rowes of ftately round Pillars, under which not only the Procejfion upon Corpus Chrifti day, rnarchethin the fhadci but alio all people may go dry, and out of the Sun in Summer, , or Winter', unto Si. Peters Churchy ot the Vatican Vallate, This Portico is built in an oval form, and fetcheth in the great Piazza, which is be- fore . S. Peters Church, and there- fore can be no lefsthan half a mile in compafs. This noble ftru&ure was begun by Alexander the VII , and half of it rinifhed, and the other /ialf is now almoft tiniuied. I never

faw


•fs.v*

Mr


Of Italt 27

faw any thing more ftately tharn this. The number of the pillars and of the ftatues on the top, I do not juftly remember. In the mid ft of this 27* grt(m Piazza ftands the ramo'us Guglia i Gugli* which was brought out of JEgypt in H ore &• the time of the old Rom*ns\ and Pettrs ' dedicated to Augujlus Cxfar and liherius, as the words upon it im- port. It lay hid long in Neros Circus, which was there where now tf. Pl- iers Sacrijiy is\ and at- la ft Sixtuf Qu'intns having propofed great re- wards to him that would venture to fet it up here without breaking, it was happily undcrtaken,by DotninU* Fmtana* rare Architect rfComo\ind Co placed as you fee it now. Th© manner of bringing it out of Mgypt* and of erecting it here are both painted in FreJ'co upon the Walls of the Vatican Library : This Ggfra is all of one ftone except the bafis; and it hath no Hkroglyfbej upon it. The ftone is a Granite, or fpzekjed Mar- ble, which together with its tafisjs a hundred and eight foot high. It relts upon four lyqns of brafs guilt •> and at the'topjbf.it is planted fcrb'ftofi B b ft braft


«s


The Voyage


aie foMtt fains.


I


ii


braft mounted upon three moun- tains with a ftar over thtmCthe arms of SlxiuT Quintus whofe name was Montalto. ) Within the Crofs is a piece of the Holy Crofs • of our Saviour , included here by Sixtus Qu'mhs. The whole Gugliti is faid to weigh 956 Impound weight. I wonder what fcales they had to weigh it with.

On each fide of this Guglia is to ftand fair fountains , one whereof is that which is fecn there iiowj which throweth up fuch a quantity of water, that it maketh a milt alwaics about it, and oftentimes a' a rainbow when the Sun {hikes ob- liquely upon it.

This Piazza is capable of two hundred thoufand men , and de- livers you up to the Stairs which lead you up to the Church ot S.Feter. Setters. Coming therefore near to St. Tctcrf Church, I was glad to Lc that noble ftruclrurft, where great- nefs, and neatnefs, bulk and beauty, are fo mingled together that its neither neat only , like a fpruce gallery i nor vafi only, like a great

hall j


tht


Or Italy 29

.hallj bur its rather like a proper man, and yet well proportioned. You mount up to this Church by an the eafieafcent or" four and twenty fieps M»rHt'. of marble ftairs, as long as the (ton- fit* "P *' tifpice of the Church is wide ■■> theft c j }> ftairs were thofeof the old Church of S. Vcter •, and Bnonlns obferves that when the Emperor Cbarle- tnsgne mounted up thofe ftairs fnft, a J°. he. kilTe.d every ftep as he went up.

Thefe ftairs lead you up to ^ c The . frtf Frontifpice of the Church, which fiftieth hath five doresinit letting you in to the Porch > and thefe dores are cheeked with vaft round pillar s of freeftone «m f«»* ; ~ +*»»v*<*i an £ «ighty fix in heighth. Over thefc pillars runs the architrave, and^ over it the Lodge or great Balconc , where the Pope is crowned , and where he gives his Benediction upon Eafterday. Over this Lodge runs a continual Balufter or row of rails, upon which (land thirteen vaft fta~ rues of our Saviour and his Apoftks cut inftone. Entringinto the Porch, you will rhtPor& Bb3 admire




•dmire the length, breadth, and "Wgf&ofir. For the length of it, its two hundred eighty nine foot, the breadth forty four foot: theheight,a hundred thirty three foot.Its adorn- ed on both fides with great marble pillars , and a curious guilt roofe. In fine, this Torch any where elfc would be a handfbme Church.

Over againft the five doors of this "Porch , ftand the five doors of the Church* one whereof is called, the Porta SanUa , and only open in the Jubily yeanthc others are dayly open j and the two principal doors arc called, Valv* s*"8i Petri, and are covered with brafc by the ,w ~~* — ~. J , " f ^nvmrn the IV. whofc memorable actions, to wit th«  crowning of the Emperor $igifmond, & the reunion of the Greek Church with the Latin, are exprcfled in them. Thefe Valve are thirteen foot wide, and forty five high i and to them all Popes Bulls are nailed at their publication! •ftb,\ •'; .Entring into the Church, I found , Uurck\/rt to be built in Crofs wife j con-

ne the ftatues of feveral moral. virtues. Thefe pillars are a hundred and five foot in com- paffe, and diftant forty foot one from another. On that fide of them wpich looks towards the body of the Church j. they are to be over- cruftcd with white marble,with two rows of niches in- them for great B b ^ ftatues 92 T ** E Voyage ftatues of brafs guilt. The other fides of theft pillars are already a- dorned with a neat overcrufling of a reddifli marble befet with the heads of the primitive martyred Popes, held up by two Angels, and with the pigeon or Innocent the X, ( who made this decoration ) and all thefe are in mezzo ril'itm , and of pure white Alabailer. Behind thefe pillars is a large He, or paf- tage, and behind that He imme- diately, Hand fair ,Chappels, which flanck up this -Church notably, and each Chappel is graced with a little Cupola of its own. , ; : \n the midil of the Crofs building of tl\is Church is mounted the great Cupch.-fSyhioh looks like a great 'crown -wherewith this Queen of Churches is crowned. It refts upon four Filajhi or great pillars which make the corners of the Crois of this Church, and from them it iifcth into fuch a high Vault, that it fetms to walk' into Heaven. Its full as round as the Pantheon in Kome^ that is, it carrieth the com.- paf* Of Fr At* $3 pafs of an hundred and feventy paces, as you may eafily mcafure upon the circle of white marble iia the pavement which environeth the Altar of S; Peter, and is made there on purpole perpendicularly under the Cupola to the w itsgreat- nefs. The inlide of this Cupola is curiouily painted with pi&uresin Mofaick work reprefenting a Hea- ven: indeed nothing but Heaven it fclf can be finer or higher.So that I may fay truly to Rome with Rut-llius, Non procul a cxlo per iua Tcmp'a* fumus. In a word this Cupola is the boldeft piece of Architecture that perhaps the world hathicen i and it was the laft and greateft work of Sixtur §>uiMur his purfe. The four PUaftri upon which this Cupola refteth, are vafr fquare Pil- fbefo'ur his, a hundred and twenty foot in Z reat ** compafs , and capable of fuiis ** r ' within them, and large Sacrifices above, for the holy reheks tha.t are kept in themy to wit the Volto- Santo or print of our Saviours face, which he impriuted. in. the hand— B b 5 Ijtftfchcsr I 54 T HE VoTAGI kcrcher of S. Veronici: The piece "ot the Holy Crofsi the top of the lance wherewith our Saviours fide was pierced : and the head of St. Andrew the Apoftle tranflated hi- ther into his brothers Church by Tins Seetmdm. Hence in thefe great pillars, arc cut Niches and in them placed four vaft flatues of white marble. Under theRelick of the Velio Santo Hands the ftatue of the Veronica- under the piece of the Holy Crofs, the iiatue of S. Helen. Under the top of the lance, the Statue of Lmginns : under the head of S. Art' drew, the itatue of S. A?idnw» Thcfeftatuesare of Cdrjfean great- ntfs, and made by matters as great as thcmfelves.. In the midft of the Crofs of this Church, and perpendicularly under the very Cupola , ftands the High Altar of this Church. This Altar may well be called, the High Altar ( Altare quafi alta ara ) or the Altare majus-, being the ncbleft Al- JbtTomb tar in the world, both for matter «/S.P«- and form. The Altar it felf ftands Uu ' over the Tomb of & Peter, half of whole. •Hit Tligh Altar, Of Italt 55 whole body, together with half of S. Pafth, lyes buryed here > and the other half of their bodies in S Pauls Church. Over this Altar four /lately pillars of brafs hear up a Canopy of the fame mettal, wrought about the edge like a Ca- nopy indeed, with Valances and a guilt fringe, yet all of brafs.Over the corners of this Canopy ftand' four great Angels of brafs guilt, and in the midit of it is mounted high a round ball of brafs guilt and a fairCrofs upon it of the fame met- .tal. Thefe four pillars are as &reat in , r compafs ( 1 (peak by experience hra j- s pilL having taken the meafure of them u r s of \ upon their model J as three ordi- the Altar* nary men are thick* Their form is ferpentine , wreathed about with Vine trees and leaves i but all of brafs i as alfo adorned with little: Angels of brals clambering up thofe. leaves and branches, and with Bee* here and there alfo, relating tQ. Pope Vtbuns arms, who made them.. Thefe pillars are fifty foot high. &om the ground.Every one of them weighctk I Jt Vara- hf.c.Z, iheCtn- tun* $6 T»* VOTAOI wcigheth five and twenty thoufand pound wcight^and all of them toge- ther make this Altar, the Altar antonomaftically, as this Church is the Church of the world.So that if the Climax be trueCas true it is)that Churchfs are for Altars, Altars for Priefts, Priefts for God , I know no religion which payeth fuch ho- norable tributes of worfhip to God, as the Roman Catholick religion doth,which hath the nobleft Church the nobleft Altar, the nobleft Prieft, the nobleft facririce & all this to the nobleft God j Vms Veorum Vem'inm. Hence the Pope may fay with Sa- lomon '. Vctnus attain adificare eupio magna ejt , magnas cli enim ~Domi- rms nojitr Juper otnnes Decs. Behind this Altar (not in refpect of him that comes into the Church by the great dore, but in refpedt of him that itands at the Altar jftands the ConfetTion ofS. ?e>er\ Co called becaufe that in the primitive times the place where the bodies of Saints and Martyrs were kept , was called Couttflio, and in tiu Greek Church, MartjrinrH* tor in ancient writers the r> Or 1 TALT 57 the word Confejfor was taken often for a martyr, who had confeffed Chrift Co farre as even to die for him : fo that martyrs were fome- times called Confers , and Con- fejfors Martyrs , though they did not actually die in torments i> as you may fee plainly in the Annotations* of learned Famelw upon Tertul- lians book ad Martyrts. Now, this place becaufc it conferves the body (at leaft, half of the fady) of S. Peter* is called, the Cwfeflion of Peter. As for this Cmfjfion 5 its made like a hollow cave open above, and railed about with Uw railes, fo that the people kneeling , may look down to the iron door and grate, behind which the 1ov>b of S. Peter Hands under the Altar : for thefe railes fetch in a demi- circle from one corner of the Altar to the other. There are alfo a dou- ble pair of open flairs , of fome twelve 1bps a piece, for thofe to defcend by who officiate, and there ate two little half drrs which let theraia to thole [hires. Andlcon- ccive> fhe Li- tnina Jpoftalo- rum. II Cubic fi- bril S, Pttri. Yii. Anaftaf. Rikiotb. in Max- 5§ T HE VoTAGE ceive at the bottom of thefe little doors-, the Limina- Apoftolorum to be. For though I know its gene- rally, held, that to vifit the Lt'mina Apqftolorum C which Bijhips by the Cannon law are obliged untoj is to vifit S. Peter Church h and that divers learned Authours think the Limina Apojiolortim , to be the very Jhps of the entrance of the great door of the Church i yet lam of opinion , that thefe little half doors, and the fteps about the Altar are moit properly the Limina dptf- tolorum, becaufe I found thefe very words written in golden letters in the bottom of the like little doirr which ftand about the Hgh Altar in S. Pauls Church, where the other half of the bodyes of S, Tver and S. Prf«/are intombed. Hound about this Church ftand Jjde Cbappel/, fbrne fix and twenty in all, called anciently Cuhicula, and thofe whom we call Chaplains, were anciently called Cubicularii : hence the title of Cubicularitts S . Pttr'u Now thefe CbappeU have, for the sioft O f Italt. 59 moft parr,, fome- remarkable thing Pj»//V. in them. In one of them, is al waves /^'j?- 12, referved the B. Sacrament for the a * ivtr ' dayly ufe of Pilgrims that defire to communicate in S- Peters Church, and other devout people. In that of J G J r £' S. Gregory Nazianzm , is the au^ tMS body of that Saint tranilatcd hither tomb. out of the Church of the Nuns of Carnpo Marzo. In the Chappel of the Canon?, rtpofeth the body of s ' chrt ~ S. Chryfojiome. In the Chappel -J^ 3 ™ called he Clementina , repofeth the body of S. Gregory the gre.t, who being Pope of Rome & moved S. Gre- by Godly inftindion fas hhn Siete& 0Yles faithj fent Auguftin , Iujhis , Me- tm i/fw,and other Monks living in the fear of God, to convert the Angles, saw in or Englifh to the faith of Chrift \ his clm- and therefore I took particular n»~ n ' cles *» rice often of his tomb, as being?'"-' ( as Venerable Bede calls him J our Apoftle. In a Chappel at the very further end of the Church, is fet up the Chair of 5". Peter h held up by The four Doctors of the Church, all cart chair °f , in brafTe in a ftately pofture. s, *' ur ~ This Chair is of wood, but much fecnt "L Tiie Cheif Same lambtu 40 The VarAsE fpent with old age i and therefore Pope Alexander the VII, caufcd it to be fet up here and enchafcd cu- rioully, to preferve it. I once faw it near at hand, being expofed to publick view in the middle of the Church, upon the FCaft day of S. Peters Chair in Rome. In an other Chappel,is the Crucifix made three hundred years ago by rare Pietr» Cavalin.'. In an other Chappel, you fee cut in white marble the hif- tory of 5. Leo's meeting Attila out of Kome , and his deturning him from coming any nearer to the City. As for the Reiicks and bodies of Saints which are in this Church, befides thole mentioned already, , there are the bodies of SS. Simon and lade, of S. Petronilla, of SS, Ffocejjits and Mirtinixnm ,> of ten firii Popes after S. Peter > with a world of other precious Relicks kept in the Sacrifty. As for the Tombes which are in this Church above ground, they are thefe. That of Sjxjtm IV. oiPaulus III i oiVrban the VIII j oflw the XI, of Innocent the VIII >, of Gregory Ofitalt 41 Gregory the XIII •, oilnnoccnt the X •> and lattly that of the Counteffe Matilda the onely fecular perfon that I find to have a Tomb in this Charch above ground. Indeed fhede- ferves well to lye in S. Peters Church who deferved to be called S> Titers 'daughcer,and me deferved this fur- name, for having defended the Church lb gallantly in its greateft «onfli<ft againft Henry the IV Emp. and having endowed it with a good part of its Patrimony. Her body was tranflatcd from Mantua hither in the year 165$. by the command of VoptVrban the VIII. Near the Confeffion of £. Tear*, it an old Kr«7«n ftatue of 5. Peter fitting, with his hand up as giving hisblefling* and holding his right foot a little out, to be kilTed. At rirft, fomc wonder to fee devout people flocking thither, and luffing the foot of that, flatue, and.put- ing their heads under that foot I when they have done i but when they are well informed, that all this is done onely to teftify, that they fubmit themfelvcs to the au- thority Somt Tritne li&ftrcs. 42 TBI VoilGI ■ thority which was given by our Savior, to S. Peter^nd his fucceflbrs, thty reft fatislied. Over the holy water pot on the left hand as you enter into tho Church is flcn fattened to the wall, am old inlcription upon a fcuar flone, importing, that that was the, very ftone upon which the bodies of S. Peter and S. Paul were divided, when half of their bodies was hur- ried here and the other half in S. Van's Church, by £. Silvefter. As for the ptime pictures that are in this Church > they are thefe : that of S. Michel in Molaick work if of the defignc of Cavalier Ciofeppe: as alfo the defig" of the Mofsic}^ work in the Cupola. That of 5. hbn Evangelift, and S. Lu^ejuft under the Cupola are of the hand of Gio- vaunide Vecbi. The picture where $. Peter cures the lame man, is of the hand of Ludovieo da. Civoli. That of the fall of Simon Magus is of the hand Vanni of Siena. That where S. Peteris painted with An- nanias dead before him, is of the hand of Cavalier Rancallu That of the C? Italy 43 the Altar of S. Gregory, is of the hand of Andrea Saceo Romsno. That of the creation of the world, is of Tietro Bcrettino de Ccrtona* That of Medic* fidci, is of the hand of Lan- franco. Having thus feen the Church I Tht c went to fee the Sacrifty of this cri/*of Church where by exprcfle leave s,t*ur. from the Msnfignor^ who hath the thief care, as well as the Keys ofit, Lfaw the Holy Relicks, and neat Church plate belonging to this Church. The Relicks are many, and richly enchafed in gold and filvcr. The Church plate is both plenti- ful, aud of great value, as many chalices of pure gold fet with jewels, huge filver Candldtiks with a Cru- cirixof the fame as heavy as a man can lift, with a world of other fuch like plate. But that which pleafed _ me moft here, was the ancient Pic- ture of S. Peter and S. Paul, which faint Silvefter (hewed to Conjlantin Ja ^ rhe Great to confirm the truth of c * n *"' his Villon. The Picture is very old, Ptihm. yet the faces are perceivable^ and that The Grot under S. Peters Church. 44 The Votaoe that is all. Its fct in a frame of filvcr. Thehiftory of it is both long and juiown:& if any man be ignorant of it, kt him read it in Bironius. There is-alfo in the (aid Sacrirty an other pi&ure nailed high upon the wall, which was made byN. Carpi with his fingers initead of a pencil. Being now in the Sacrifty, I gqt lieve to go down into the Grot under this phurch, with a practical Clericus with a lighted torch to ihew me and explicate unto me the mod confidcrable things that are there : as the tomb of S. Peter with an Altar over it 5 at which any Bifliop or prieft may fay Mafs : a world of ancient ilatues (fet- in the low Chappels 5 3nd in the wall of this Grot ) which belonged to the old Church of S. feter y and mewing the antiquity of pictures in Churches : the Tomb of the moft honourable Churchman of our nation , Pope Adrian the IV, the onely Englifla Pope that ever 'was: the tomb of the Emperour 'nngli'lh' Q^ 0Q l ^ e ft con d> m a S reat porphiry 0«n... flirine : the Tombes of divers other Jdti the II O f It a lj 4<j great Popes and Cardinals: and in tine, the tombeftone of Charlotte of LuzignaniQuecnotJerHfahm, Cy- prus, and Armenia, who having been driven out of her Kiugdome by her bauard brother , came to - Kotnein Sixtus Quartus his time, and there dyed. She transferred be- fore her death, her right to the kingdomc of Cyprus, to the Duke of I Savoy her brother in law > which makes that Duke give a clofe crown ever his armes , and be (tiled by hisfubjects, Aluzz* Real, Royal highnefs. S.Fturi Having thusfeen thisChurch both £**£* within and underground, I was de- firous to fee it alfo above. Afcending therefore by a fair ftaircafe I arriv- ed at the great terrafs over the Lodge, and there faw the thirteen futures of our Saviour & the twelve AponMes near hand , which fecna below little taller than the ftatue of our tailed: men, and yet here above are eighteen foot high. There alfo I faw the feveral little Cupolas, which give light to the fide ciuppcls of this Church, and look like the ijjke &fi The Votaoi /. iifueand fpawn of the Great Cu- pola.Then mounting a little higher, I beheld a rare fabrick of the mother Cupola, both within and without. The (iaires to mount up into it: the double vault in it, and ftairs between the two vaults : the lantern upon the Cupola : the nar- row ftairs in one of the pillars of that Lantern up to the ball : la/lJy the ftraight neck of the paflage into the Ball, and the Ball it felf, are all Vbevouni wor ^h particular obfervation, as be- ing the height of Architecture. The Ball it Cclf of brafs guilt is capable of thirty men, though from below it lookes oncly as big as twice a mans head. We were eight in it at once i and I am fure we could have placed thrice as many more. Upon the round Ball is mounted a great Crofs of iron guilt to fignifie , that the Vcrtueofthe Croft by our Saviours paffion, hath triumphed over the world, of which this round Ball is the exprefs emblem. From this Cu- pola we had a perfect view of Rome under us, and of all the Villas about it. But nothing was fo wonderful, as t» Sail c a fabh of 30 r.icn O f Italt 47 Co fee S. Peters Church and Pdllace, look like a town under us, which we knew to be but one Church and houfe. p rM jf e e f You will wonder perchance too, s. Peters, when you (hall hear that this church. - Church is the eight wonder.of the. world, that the Pyramids of Egypt y the walls of Babylon, the Fbaros, Celnffus, &c were but heaps of itones compared to this fabrick : that it. hath put all antiquity to the blufh, and all poftcrity to a Non plus : that its feveral parts are all incompa- rable Maiter-peices : its pi&urcs all originals :its (ratues perfect models : That it hath a revenue of above twenty thoufand pounds a year onely for the fabrick : -that it hath .coft till the year i6$4, ( The 9 J£'£ accounts being then fummed up ) s. Peters Forty millions of cro wnes:that moft Church. of the Popes lince Julius the II his time( and they have been twenty ' three in all ) have heartened and advanced this work : that the prime Architects of the world, SangaUa, Bramsnte , Baldajfcre , Buonarota ," GiaeoniQ dellv Porta 3 Giovani Ion- tttu, 4$ The Voyag* tana •> Carlo Maderno , and now Cavallero Bemind, have brought it on to this perfection: that the whole Church it felf is nothing but the* QuintcfTence of wit and wealth fkained into a religious defign of making a handfome houfe to God, and of fulfilling, the divine oracle which promifed > that magna tnt £Z* 1 a « gl or i a dorms iflius neviffim* , pfaf- quamprim£. Going at laft out of this Church, and fumming up in my thoughts all the rarities I had feen in it, I be- gan to think of Ammonias ( a holy primitive Saint and afterwards Moronius Bifhop in the Council of Sardis ) of «».3P« whom its written, that coming to Rome with S. Athanafus^ hede- fired to fee nothing there but $. fettrs Church , and knew not tha way to any place elfe i I think, that if this good mau had feen£. Veters Church as it fs now, he would never have cared for feing any thing elfe in the world, and would even have forgot his way home too. Near to the Church of S. Peter Hands the Vatican Palace , where the u.s. The V»- tican Pa- laci. O F I T AL T 4? the Popes ufe to winter. To de- fcribe it to you all at length, would take me up too much time-, nor indeed is it fit for me to dwell there. I will therefore pafs through it quickly, and rather point you out whats to be feen there , than paint you out in words what I faw there. i . From the Church of S. Pet* you afcend into this Pallace by ari eafy & Irately pair of flairs capable often men a bred. Thefe flairs render you up at the great Hall, called Sola Regia, becaufe the Pope The Salt rcceiveth here EmbafTadors of Kings *•'!'*• in their Embaflies of ftate. It is beautified with rare pictures in a great volume: as that ofthcEmpc- rour Frederic!^ killing the Popes foot, of the hand ofGiofcppedelSal- viati Garfagnino. That of the Ligne in France : that ot'Colignil that of the Pope condemning herefy : That of the Pope returning from Avignon^ are all of the hand of Gtorgio Vof- fari. That of the Emperour Charles the Great tigning the Brief of the donation, is of the hand lhaito C g Zmcari I 50 The Voyage Zuccari : that of the battle of Le- ■panto with the picture of Faith at the fide of it, is of the hand of Do- nato Formello* 2. This great Hall ftands between two Chappels, the Paulina and the Sift a. In the Paulina is feen a rare picTure of the crucifying ot S. Ycicr by Michael Jngelo. The roof of it alfo.was rarely painted by Fiaerio Zuccari , but the fmoak of the candles upen Manday Thurfday, when this Chappel ferves for the Sepulcher, hath Co defaced thefe -pictures , that a farr worfe h:nl would haveferved there. 3. The Chappel of Sifio is that in

  • &« Vopes whichthe Pope holds. Capella upon
• ,a PP«i> cer t 3 ; n cJayes , and where all the ' Cirdjnals intervene. In the end of this Chappel upon the wall, is paint- ed the Jaft judgment by Michael Angela ^ a piece famous over all the world. The green garments of S. Kithcrine and the head of S. Bia7io are of the painting of Da?2Jd of VJterra , who was prefintly fct a work to make thole garments, when the Pope had given exprefs order.. Of It >ly 51 order, that this rar' picture fhou.ld be defaced, becauft of fomenaked- nefs in it. Upon ^reat dayes this Chappel is hung with a rare fait of hangings of the defign of Raphael Vrbin wrought with gold and filk, v containing the Ads of S. Peter and S. Tanl. 4. Behinde this Chapel Hands "&« P«/«  the Popes Sacrifty '•> a place Icarce SM Vff* known to Grangers, and therefore feldomefeen by them , though very well worth the feeing. Its kept al waves by aPrelat 3 who isalwayes an Auguftin Fryar , and a Biihop, and called M-mfig?ior Sacrifba. la authors of high times we rind men- tion of this officer under the name of Cimiliarcba , or chief Sacriftan* Here I faw rare Church ornaments for the Popes ufe.Thefe in particular Icannotlet pjfs without mention- ing, The cope of fiint Silvejler Pope, thirteen hundred yearesago. The neat Chafuble of cloth of tifllie with the pi&ures of the mini(|ring thefeaven Sacraments, all embroi- deredinitin filk and gold 10 rare* ly, that the late Lord Marflul of C c 2 England 5 2 The V o yage England Tbo. Earl of ArttndeL Got leave to have it painted out, and Co much the more willingly, beeaufe it had been given to the Pope- by King Henry the VIII a little be- fore his Schifme.Then the incom- parable fuits of ornaments for prieff, Deacon, and Subdeacon, to be ufed in high Mafs, which were given by King Sebafiian of* ?ortHgal> and fet all over with pearl, and thefe pearles were the firit that came out of the Indies, and were in all eight hundred pound weight of pearl. The other rare things here were the 3. L<*»- Head of S. Laurence, which I faw r nue his ncar at hand, through a criftal : apeiceof thefpunge, in which the Jewes gave our. Saviour gall to drink : the Camilla of S. Frifca a primitive Saint martyred in it 1400 yeares ago : the Crucifix in which is fet under a cryftal . a piece of the Holy crofs carved with the palfion of our Saviour in it: a thorn of ou* Saviours crown of thornes, which belonged to Tim Qu'mtus : a crofs fet with Diamondsand Pearles, which the Pop: wears at hi&b reit m Of Italt 55 'n grcatfunfticnsia great ringwhicli he alfo weareth in Inch functions* its &t with a fair Saphyr, and four great pearles ; a fair Crucifix en- amdd and befet with ftore of pearl and Ieweis : the Popes Pallium which he wears in great fund ions : the filtula, or pipe of gold where' with the Pope receives the confe- crated blood of our Saviour in the Chalice upon great dayes : the rare Chalices of gold fet with pearl, and yet more pretious for their work- manftiip than for their matter : the great Chalice of gold,into which the Cardinals put their written Votes in chufing the Pope by fcrutiny : the five triple crownes called Regni, four whereof are fet thick with precious Hones and pearls of great value, and therefore ordi- narily kept in the Caftle Angelo : two mitres of the fame richneis :thc ehryital Pixe in which the blelTed Sacrament is kept in the ScpulclKr upon Manday Thurfday : in hue the book of the Gofpels painted in miniature by the famous Giufa Glorio, for whofe firft pidturc here Cc 3 C ofc Gallery fainted by Ka- 54. T he Voyage ( of the laft Judgment ) Vaulus Imitts Tent him fifteen hundred piirols, as Monfighor Sacrijla affured me. 5. Palling from hence through the S.ila again, I was led into the great room hard by , where the Pope wafheth the feetof thir- teen pilgrims upon Manday, Thurs- day ■■> and then giveth euery one of them a great meddalof gold with four piftolsi and an other of ill— ver. 6. Thence I was led into the open gallery which looketh upon the Court j Imean the fecond lodge, ( for there are three fuch open gal- leries J where the hiltories of the Bible are painted moft curioufly in the roof of it by prime mailers. That of Adam and the creation : that where Adam lows : that where the fheep drink : that where Jacib law the ladder : that of the lalt Supper of Chriii with his Apoltles: that where M-fis (hews the^ Laws, are all of the hand of K ,2 - fbael Vrbtn, That of the Deluge : &' of O f Italy 55 of the adoration of the golden calf are of the hand of Raphael dul Borgo. That where Joftti commands the Sun to Hop : that of Berfabe, and the like , are of the hand of Ywnno del V^go. That of the Chariot and fome others are of the hand of Caravjgio. That of Mofts- ftriking the rock i that of the Judgment of 'Solomons and lome others are'ofthe handof JulioRo- rruno. That of the Baptifm of Cbriji, with other fuch like, are of the hand of Veflegrino da Modtna. Yet btcaufc in all thefe pictures Rapbatl Vrbin -'gave either the de- fign, or fottae touches, this Gallery is called Raphaels Gallery : indeed nothing but the Divine hiitory itfelf can be finer &than this painting of Divine Raphael. And it belongs only to Rome to have the Bible fet out thus in its own colours : and if pictures be the belt books for iguorant people, who can fay 'that the Bible is kept from the people here, feeing it's painted and printed here in the molt vulgar tongue, and known language, pic- C c 4 tures? tins butlt 'with Jtfaxen~ tins, 56 TfiE VorAfiE tures? In a word 'Raphaels colours fecmed to me to illuttrate the text very much, and to be an excellent Comment upon the Holy fcripfure. 7. From this gallery I was led into the great chamber , where Conftantins Victory over Maxen- tiui is fo rarely painted upon the walls by Raphaels own hand j that this painting ferves this chamber not only for a rich Tapcftry > but alio for an internal Trophee to that Emperor. The feveral poliuret here of men and hprfes , all in eon- fufion, yet all in fuch due propor- tion make this picture (in the Tbt hc(i^^ mcnt °^ Monfieur foujfin a defcne'd^ mms P ainter ) the rar « rt thin g pitlure ' m tnc wor ^ for defign. In the other in the following rooms there are divers other rare pieces of the fame hand* as that of Att'ila and Pope Lto: that of S. Teter in prifon, a piece much admired for the perfpeftive of it : That of the B. Sacrament: that of the burning of the Bor^o : that of JEneas carrying his Father Ancbifis out of the flames, are of Raphaels hand. The hiftory of ffe- liodoms world. O f Italy 57' Heliodoms over the chimney, is of: the hand of Julio Romano, R^baeh fchollar. . ■ , 8. Going up from hence into tne. higheO open gallery, you'll find it painted with Geographical maps ok the hwd of Antonio da Varefe. The. roof cf it is alfo well painted by. Vomer ahc'io , Paris Romano, and Bronzing excellent painters all ^ 8. Then coming down, 1 law mmiiutt the Sala Clamenttnaz noble room. The rare perfpeftives in the roof^ and in one of the corners both of them exprefling. the arms of Cit r mm the VlU are worth your at- tentive confideration. lo. Then the divers chambers of his holyncfs hung all with damask, hanging in fummer , and velvet: hangings in winter, are very neat. In the Popes bedchamber I. law the grave picture of our Lady with, her (on in her arms, called. Saint Mary Major, its painted, curioully upon a white traniparent. ftons three fingers thick, and yet, , (hewing the pidture on both fides itc heldbeforethefun. $M I ■ J ran fitce of prfpec- ti.ve.. I 58 T he Voyage 1 1. The great room guilt over- head , where the Pope treats at dinner great Princes when they cometo Rome. 12. Theold appartiment of Pwt Quiniusw'iththe great wooden bed orraiher the little wooden chamber oi Fanlttf Quhitus . 1 3. The rare piece of perfpe&ive over the door of the long room leading to the gallery ofmaps.At the iirft looking upon it, you fee la- thing but certain types, or hgurcs of the blefTed Sacrament out ot the Old Teitarncnt, but being placed diredtly under it, and looking up- wards, you fee all the forefaid types contracted into the form of a Ca- lice and an hoft over it i to (hew, that thole old types and fiiadows prtrigured only the body and blood of our Saviour in the holy facririce of the Altar. 14. The long gallery of the maps of Italy painted upon the walls on ef'Mxps. b 0( h fcJes by p a nl H r BriUns a Flamming and others j and that fo diflindtly that you fee plainly every State, Province, City, River, vil- Tbt rare Gallery Of Italy 59 Village,- Cattle* high way of Italy J . and where any famous battle was! fought either in the Romans t ime , or fmce : A Gallery which I wifh I hadfpent as many hours in, as I fpent dayes in going up to Rome, j Divers other galleries there are in this houfe which Ipafs over in filence. But I cannot pafs Over Co P* ' oftbe( tne coiidavti. the 'long Gallery leading to the JJ?~ Belvedere* m which is kept Conclave of all Popes:, in this one great room, fifty, or threescore, Cardinals lodge and have every one two Chambers, one for himfeltV and the other for his Conclavilii. Exungite Leonem, you; may judge by this what the whole houfe is ;. or elfe by this what they affure you, when they tell you, that there are 5 thoufand chambers in that Palace. 1 5. From the middle of the forefaid the Vati^ gallery , you enter into the Vatican *** *»- Library, famous all the learned brar 1" wovld over, for having in it, betides the Regiiters of the Roman Church the choice ft manufenpts of the. world in holy languages. This fri- • rvniass 6q T^ 1 V°ta© e ronn'ius found , who' drew from hence notable fuccourfor the main- taining this Ecclehaftical hiftory againitthe Centuriators of Magdc- bourg, who wanting thefe allured aims, and being otherwise wrongly biaiTcd, made faults in their hiftory as many as their Centuries, and as great as their Volumes. The defcription of this Library hath been made by learned Anting Kocca in Latin , and by Mutius Panfa in Italian : yet for the fatiifa&ion of my curious coun- trymen I fhall fay fomething of it. Firft the room is a v-aft long room fpreading itfelf in the iurther end-, into two wings of building, which are full of pref* fcs where the manufenpts are kept carefully from mice and rats 3 and moiit weather. At the entrance into this Library you are let into a fair chamber full of desks for a dozen of writers, who have good ftipends to copy out books in all languages-) andthey are hound to be writing fo many hours in a morning, Rgund about this room hang O F FALT hang the pi&ures of all the Cardi- nals that have been Bibliotbecarii fince Sixtuf Qmntus his time. Then iy entring into the Library itfelf, I Library iaw the vaft wide room fupported u i ( H' ( like a Church ) by great fquare pillars, about which areas many cupbords where the Manufcriptsare confer ved. On thewall on the right hand, are painted in Frefco the Ge- neral Councils of the Church, with the Bible in the midft laying open upon a ftately Throne, and with the order and place of precedency oh- ferved in them: as al Co fome notable accidents in Ecclefialtical hiftory. On the left hand are painted all the famous Libraries anciently mentioned by authors: and upon the great pillars are painted the.rirft Inventors & promoters of learning. This long room fpreads it felf ac laftinto two wings on each hand i both which are full of curious books, both manufcripts and Print- ed books j divers of which were mown me with great civility, by Monfignor Holftenitu then keeper of this Library whom I had for- merly Some rare boskji here* 62 T he Voyage merly known. The chief of thcfc books were thefe. Avail Hebrew Bible too heavy for any man to lift up. An ancient copy of the Septuagints tranflatron in Greek, after which the Bible hath been printed both in Rome and London. The Ads of the Apoftlcs in Greek curioully written in Golden Letters. The Gofpel written by S. ( bry~ foft orris own hand. An Hebrew Bible written in iheets of parchment parted to one another, and rowled up : hence the word vj- kimzn^iox. a book. A little book writen in bark of trees : hence the word Folium, for a leaf in a book. Certain old Roman Table books. A China Tablebook of wood, in which they wrote with a pointed fteel. A curious China book all in Hi- eroglyphs , and folded up in many folds : our Vurcbas in his curious navigations hath both Printed and deciphered it. Volidor VirgiVs hiftory of England' \vr»:tfen O P 1 1 A L Y. £f written with his own hand. An old book of Sermons in Latin , in whofe margin St.Tbonut oiAquin had made notes with his own hand. An old Virgil with the pidtures of the hiftory in old painting. An old Terence written twelve hundred yeares ago, and the an- cienteft that ever Poliiiaa faw, as he teltifiefh under his own hand in the infide of the cover of this book. EarottJtiw his annals in his own hand writing. The rare quotations out of the an- cient Fathers, painfully and faith- fully col !e died out of the belt copies, by learned Cardinal Sir/e/o in the time of the Council of "trcnt^ and fent by him weekly , by the Poir, from Rome-, to the Fathers in the Council,who proceeded to their de- finitions by the ancient tradition of the Church, found fo plainly and uuanimoufly in thofe Fathers. Thole quotations make iix volumes in fo~ lio:and this was if , which our adver- fa ries- K Henry the VIII Letters to jtn Belen Henry th VII I agaivft Luther. $h* Li- brary of the I)ttki 64 The Voyage faryes call, the fending down of the Holy Ghoft to Trent in a cloak- bag •, when it was only the fending down of thefe faithful testimonies of the Tradition of the Church,, gathered out of the moft ancient and authentick copies. The letters ot Henry the VIII of En- gland to Ann B>len his miftrefs then, in his own hand writing, fome in Engli(h,fome in French,but all ama- tory. It isealie to imagine them writ- ten by him, if you compare the hand- writing of thefe letters, withthole two verfes written by the Kings own hand in the frontifpice of the following book, to wit. The book which the faid Henry 1 wrote againft Martin Luther-, and dedicated it by a couple of Latin verfes written with his own handin the Frontifpice of it, to Pope Le& the tenth: which book purchafed to King Henry the honorable title of defender of the fai ft th. Then I was (hewn the Library of the Duke of Vrbin, who dying without Heirs male bequeathed his Library to the Vatican Library here OFlt A L T £* here. In this, I Taw many rare Rianufcripts written in parchment, and painted in miniature : efpecially that book in whofe margins are painted by a rare hand, and won- derful diligence, all the infeclrs in nature, in their lively colours and truerefemblance. Over againft this Library, they (hewed me, in the fame room, the #* l *- Library of Heidelberg, fent to fame % e *%j? by the Dake of Bavaria after he had fa- clifpoflefled the Elector Frederick* Prince Palatin of Rbene, of his coun- try , as well afs of the Kingdom^ of Bohemia which he had feized on, at the inftigation of Betkelein Cabor and others. See the Mereure francoU. They fhewed roe here, among divers other books , the book of defigns of the faid Prince Ele&or Palatin, which he had:- de» figned being young. Happy Prince if he had not ddigned to hiafelf an other mans Crown. In the great room of this Li- rhepUu brary there is an Iron door which °fR.(£tf~ letteth you into a more fecret room,*™* where the Regifters of the Church ©£ great ferfons. 66 The Voyage of Kerne are kept : the keeper of which Regifters was anciently called Chartularius > an office mnch like to that in the Greek Church} called Qbartophylax* In fine I was (hewn here divers letters of great perfons and Princes, written with their own hands, as of S. Cbjrls Boromcus? to Cardinal Sirktv who had had a hand in his Some <■<■ education: of Queen Mary ol En- l "lT ^ W« Hi(: of Kin S pbili P the Second " of Spain her husband, {tiling him- " felf King of Spain, England, and tc Franct'toi Francis the firftof France: " of Margaret of Farmathat gever- c< ned Ftanders when it revolted: of Pre lident Vargas a Spaniard, and a great Statefman in Flanders, but no great Latinift, as it appeared by his anfwer to the Doctors of Lovain ( petitioning him in Latin for their priviledgcs ) when he faid ; Non curarnm vojlros prhilegiof. Mali faxtrtint templa f> bdni nihil faxemnt contra '• ergo deb en t omnei putlulari: the terms of the ex- . population being as harfh as the Conclufion of itiand fome old polite Orators Harjb Latin. Canon Pafchalis Of Italt j6 Orators had rather have been hangd indeed, than threatened in fuch bad Latin. A little before I went out of this Library, I faw near the door, the Statue of Hyppolitus Biftiop of Vortua f who lived J4C0 years a- go 3 fitting in achair oHtone, upon which is cut in Greek letters the ancient Canon Yafebalkf^upon which Scaliger and others have written. Its a curious piece of learned an- tiquity, and worthy to be taken no- tice of. id. Having feen the Library we were led on by the long Gallery The y e i ve . mentioned before, unto the Belve- d er e. dere, where we defcended into the Popes private garden,full of orange trees , fine walks, and fountains. Here are three or four, unavoid- able wetting places to thofe that art not acquainted with them. Hence you go down to fee the rare foun- tain of the Iron (hi p. In this garden I faw the Pineapple of brafs guilt, which is as great as three men can 2**JF'** fathom about , and twice as high ftleit ^ e as the tal left men can reach. Here alfo 68 T HE Voyage alfo ftand by it the two great Pea- rte tv>9 cocks of t> ra f s « u iit, which itood restocks. • , &••'***• i • x anciently upon Scipio Africans his tomb, and are fome three or four yards long. 2ht Behe- 1 y.From. hence we were led hard j^^'Hytofee the Belvedere of the Nhfi ' cbere, which Michael Angelo called., his fludy. Its a fquare Court fet with Orange trees, in whole walls are great Niches with leaves to them of wood, where the choice ftatue$> of the world are conferved under loek and key , and free from ilt weather. The chiefeft itatues arc j^*,. thefe : that of the river Nilus y and tws ' that of Tyher, both incumbent pof- tures : T'hat of Antinomy minion of the Emperor Adrian \ its of pure oriental marble, and rarely cut: that of Cleopatra : that of Venus com- ing out of a bath : that otCommodus the Emperor: that of Laocoon and his fons involved about with fer- pents. This ftatue of Las com is the • mafter piece of fculpture. That in the middle of the Court, of Ber- euks without arms, legs, or head, is f© rare a trunck, that Michael, Angela O * Ita lt 69 Angela profeflcd, he had learned Michael more skill out of that broken ftatue,^ " than out of all the whole ones he had ever feen. Hence you fee alwaiesa world of fculptorsdefigning it out: Apiece of the Lyons skin yet ap- pearing made me not doubt but it was the ftatue of Hercules, 18. From hence we ftept into 'f^ the great garden of the Baluedere Be i vt d<rt full of exotick trees, curious foun- tains, (hady walks,and great variety of Grottes and wetting fports. 19. Laftly, in your return again through the Vatican Pallace, we tfce Ar- faw the armory full of arms, for mtrs thirty thoufand men,horfe and foot, and well kept. Having thus feen the Vatican Pallace;, I went on with the reft ef the curiofities of the 'town, and took them in order as they lay. Hence going from S. P«/crx, and^ s ™" leaving the Pallace of the Santo Officio 3 on my right hand, I came fbe mf- prefently to the Hofpital of Saitpitalof Spirit which is hard by. The fi- $.8p»r»# tuition O *■ Italt 7® tuation of this Mofpitar near to S. Peters Church , was not done cafuallyi but without doubt, upon defign and for this end, that men might learn by the very ficuation of Hofpitals near unto great Churches (as lobfervedin many other places both in Italy , and France) that Chriftians after they have performed their duties to God, ought to pay in the next place their duties to their neighbour i and let that faith, which they came from exerciling in the Church towards God , be made appear by good works, exercifed prefently in Hof- pitals toward men. Now this Hof- pital of San Spirito, is one of the faireft in Europe both for bignefs, and revenues.. It hath a thoufand beds in it fur the tick : a Prelate to govern it ; (tore of Priefts , Phy- ficians, and under Officers to attend on them, and a revenue of feventy thoufand crowns a year. There is alfo a monaftery of women in it, in a place feparated from the reft, capable of 5C0 young girls. In 71 The Voyage In the appartiments above flairs there is handfomeaccomodation for - poor gentlemen , founded by the gentleman like charity of Pope Vrban the VIII, to this end, that thofe whom fortune had priviledged by better birth might not be invol- ved in common miferies. There is alfo a grate towards the ftreet, where Iitttle infants are put into a fquare hole of a Turn, & fo turned in by night by their unlawful mothers, who not daring to own them, would otherwifedare to de- ftroy them. Confiantin the great x^;,, founded fuch Hofpitals for cxpofed Guyon in children. The perfon that brings <t>ver.lec. the child in the night ringsa little / - a,c - I<5, bell whofe rope hangs at the outfide of that grate, and an Officer within comes pfefently and rcceiveth \i\ & having rirft asked whether it be baptized or no, carriethit prefently away, and recommends it to a Nurfe, of which there are a'waics ftore in readinefs entertained there at the cofr of the Hofpital on the womans fide of the houfe. When the children are grown fit for in- struction , qnate 71 The Voyagi ftru&ion, they are let to trades. Th«  girls are carefully brought up by religious women there, till they be fit for marriage or a Nunnery , according to their vocation. S.Ouofri- From hence I went to Onofrios •s church. Church upon the hill, where I fa w the tomb and picture over it, of the tomi r;itc * or 4 uato 1 a -B°> vvh ° re warlike of Tor- Mufe is able to infpire mettle into his readers breaft, and diipofe him to the engagement of a new Cra- fade againft the Tttrkj. This I can fay of him if Virgil hindered him from being the firlt of Poets, he hin- dered -Virgil from being the only Poet. Returning d@wn again, and go- ing along the Longaria, I faw the finely pallaee of the Duke of Sal- vim on the right hand, and the ViUaoi Cbifi (now called the gar- den of Famef h ) on the left hand. In ' this Villa, I law rare painting attri- buted to Raphael Vrb'm. Over againit this garden, lives 2*ng«r» Villa Cbifi Queen cbrijiwas now the Queen of Swede, in whofe Valine Pallaee belides the rare hangings of cloth of Gold,& of arras hangings of O F I T AL T 7$ fcf filk and gold, i faw a curious collection ot pictures, originals all, and of the prime maftcrs of the world : That of St. Thomas Moor is without doubt, of Ham Hoi- bains hand, and a rare piece. Paffing on the Longara ftill, I eame to the Porta Stptimiana , fo called from Septimus Severn; who built here his 7b<rme \ and Co up the Hill to Saint Taneratius* 1 '***' his gate, and to the Church of that ^.^ " £aint poilcflTed now by difcalced Carmelits. Under this Church is the C^meterium Cahfodii^ where many Cemttt- Martyrs bodies were buried: Here r/) * m was buried Crefoentins the tyrant, ** who feizing upon the Caftle An- gelo fwaid all in Rome for a while. From hence, I went to the ViUa Z 1 ***,- Famfilia, which is hard by. Its a * * new ViUa but feated high, & from the terrafs upon the top of the houfc you have a fine profpedh There arc divers good pictures and ftatues in the houfc, and fine waterworks y and a grotta in the garden.The belt pictures here are, the Crucifixion of St Feter , and the Convcrfion of D d Si 74 The V-oyage S. Taul) of Michel Angelas hand. The entry of the Animals into the Ark of Noah, is a rarcpiecc: the beft flatues are the wreftling of Jacob with the Angel in white marble: SenccMtUiuc : and the Bttfio of In- nocent the X of porphyry : and his head inbrafs. Pveturning again into the Town the fame way we came, I faw the ffa brave fountain made by Pauhu fountain Quinius, who caufed the water to sfFaulut.be brought thither frcm the Lake r ° - of Brace i a?; o above thirty milts off, by a (lately Aqueduct '■> znd from hence it is diiperfed into the City and there makes new fountains. Hard by (lands the Convent of Tramifcans upon a Hill, called S. guv. Piciro Montorio, where S. Veier was pietro crucifyed with Ws head down- Mor.xorit Warc J , j n t [ ut vcr y p] ace f t ; ie Court where thercs now a- round Chappcl.Entring into the Church I was much taken with the picture fox the high Altar reprefenting our Saviours transfiguration. It was the h(l and beft piece of R'apbad Vr- I'nii making, and then I may fay., it Of Italy 75 it is the bed in the world: Iguefs it to be the belt of Raphaels pieces, becaufe dying he commanded that this pi&ure of all his pidtures ,, fhould be fet up at his teet after his death. In this Church lies buried the Earl of Tyrone who fled from Ireland hither in Queen Elizabeth r time. Here are t wo fine Itatues in marble of S Veter and S. Paul, of the hand of Michel An- gelo. Going out of this Church, you have a fair fight of Rome under you -¥ om ' from this hill. This hill was an- fj}™" ciently called Jan\mlus\ and upon it was buried Statins the Poet;, and at the foot of it NumaVompilius- Near the foot of this Hill (lands the Church and Convent of the Scala belonging to the Difcaked Carmelits. The high Altar is very L(t Scal * neat •, and the good fathers (hewed us in a little Chappel within the convent the foot ot S.Thcrefa, which is plainly fecn through a Chryftal in which its kept. s "«'* Not far from hence (lands Santa %™«  Maria Trjnjlevcre , the firft Church J?; - Dd built tahtrnn M'rito- &y S.Tran- tejco in Rip* €r*tlde. j 6 The Voyage built in K*me ( faith Baroulits ) and built there where anciently flood the 'taberru meritorU '■> where the maimed foldiers received their pit- tance dayly. The guilt roof, and the two rows of marble pillars, do miach beautify this Church. Under the high Altar is yet feen the place where oil iflued out, as from a fountain, a little before our Saviours birth, as denouncing his birch to be at hand, who was to be called Chrijltu, that is anointed. In this Church lie buried Car- dinal Hofiiu a moft learned Trent Father, and Cardinal Campegw the Popes Legat in England in Henry the VIII time. You fee here the itone that was tyed about the neck ef S- Calixtus Pope, when he was thrown into a well. Here alfo you fee great round ftones which were hung at the feet of the martyrs to torment them. The convent of Franc ifcan Fry ars called S. Francefe* in Ripa Grande is hard by i where I faw the cham- ber where great S. Francis lodged when he lived in Kerne. Its now turned Rjp* Of Italy 77 turned into a Chappel. In the Church there is an excellent picture of piety, made hyC.iraccio. Here in the Church is the tomb of B?ata Ludjvica Matheiof the third order or S. Francis . I took the Ripa Grande in my 27a„di way, and faw there he boats of merchandife which come to Rome from Ligorni-i Civita Vtchia-y Naples ,- and other places, and difembark their goods here. From the Rip* I went to g. s i 0*" Cicilies church built where her houie £" . was,and where (lie was put to death for the Chriftian rcligioh.Under the High Altar of this Church is tfce tomb of this primitive Saint, with^.V^" her ftatue in a couchant pofture, and juft as her body was found in Cle- ment the VlII time,wrapt up in vails itained with blood, and covered with a robe of gold. The neat de- coration before the Hgh Altar, with the filver lamps burning before the tomb of this Saint, was the foundation of Cardinal Sfondrati. At the end of this Church, as you Dd 3 come. «  Cardinal A Atom Temb. ■ 7 S The Voiaoe come in, arefeen yet the ftoves in which S. Cicily was (hut up in her ownhoufe to be (lifted, but that failing flie was beheaded. The itovts are yet entire, and (hewing the manner of the ancient Moves. .In the Church Porch I found the tomb of one Adam an Englifh Bifhop of Londgri) and Cardinal of this title > who died in Romean.i^j. it hath thefe verfes upon it. Ariihtts ijh [ pater famnftts in emni* bus Adam Morjuit, Theoio-T'.f-s J ummus^CariinalUque tral AngliA cut fatriam^ tiiulum dedti ijia Beat* Mdes Ctciii*) mnfal ' ftiprifH'a Ftslum. Not far from this Church ftands S. Cbryjogonut his Church, a neat Church repaired fome years ago by Cardinal Bnrgkefi. The four pillars of the high Altar looK as if they were of fand and Chryital petrified together. On the left hand Cnrdits.il of the wall near the great door, lies buried Robert Archbifliop of Xo>\^ and titular of this Cburcb this was all I could learn out S. Chry JcgW9 R.obcrt A\ ebb. •ftork> OfItalt 7p out of the Tomfriione. Having thus wandered over the Trajhvere, I made towards the lie of S. Bjrtbolomw, in which (lands a good Hofpital and a convent ot" Franeifcatif, in whofe Church re- pofeth , under the High Altar, in a fair porphyiie Tomb, the body* of St. Bartholomew Apoftle.This He s. Bar- was anciently called Injkla Tiber- thoh- int , and it was tirft made by the mewt corn of TLarquinins Superbus, which r being (after his ejection out of the City ) pluckt up by the roots and thrown into the river, by reafon of the quantity of earth that illicit to the roots flopped here where the water was low* and this Mop- page once begun, all the mud of the river came afterwards to itop : here too i and fo in time, to form a little He in the midft of the ri- ver. Goiflg out of the He by the brid^ p onU of four heads anciently called Pons quarts fdWidits ) which joins this He Ca P> with the City, I looked down the river on my right hand, to fcethe j WA /^ Pons SubUcius , which Codes alone yiidut Dd 4, defended. So T HE VOY A 6E Jewry. defended againft an army, till the* bridge was cut down behind him: which he percieving leapt into the river armed and fwom iafc to his fellow Citizens, who were as glad to fee him come off fafe 3 as to rind rhcmfelves fafe. It was called Tom Sfcbtidw, frosn the word public* in Latin , which iigniries great beams of' woodjof which it was made : it was afterwards built of ftone by M- milms- From this bridge the wicked Emperor Hdiogabulus was thrown into the river and drowned with a great ftone about his neck. No (boner was I over this bridge but I faw on say left hand, the great back door of the Jewryi for here the Jews live all altogether in a corner of the Town, and are locked up every night. I cntred into their Synagogues here ( which they call their fchools ) where ttay meet upon faturdaysand Grig and pray. I wondered at firlt, that they had learned no more manners inthefc their fchools than to enter into them to pray, without cither putting of hats, lifting up eyes, or bending of knees Of Italy Si knees to the Great Jehova whom they rather fear than love. Mofes going to him, put off his fliooes, and I expected, that thefe men (hould at leaft, have put off their hats at the entrance into their Syn- agogues : but they are Arch- clowns, and their fowl towels, at the entrance into their Synagogues, told me as much. I once faw a circumcifion, but it was fo painfull to the child that it was able to* make a man heartily thank God: that foe is a Christian. And really if the little child could fpeak and wifli, I believe hs would wifti ■ himfelf the greareft curfe in the world , and to be a woman i rather than a man upon fuch terms I faw alio a marriage here perfor* med with many ceremonies. Returning out of the Jewry by the fame gate I entred,Ifa w on my left hand, the Pall ace of Prince SaveB : its built upon the mines of the Theater of MarceUur^ built by ^ Wt ^,, Augu^us in honour of his nephew Marcellns: it was capable of four- ifeore thoufand men.. Dd 5. Parting^ 8: T he Voyage Ma ~¥erha. ta. Palling on, I came to an ancient Santa Church called Santa Maria in fJmdm Cofmt&n, ox in Mbola Graca, where Sf. ^*/rw before his converfion , taught Rhetorick. In the porch of this Church ftands a great round ftonc cut into the face or a man,with a great wide mouth, commonly cal- led, La Bicej delta verity the mouth of truth j but this not being affirmed by the mouth of truth, I dare rot believe it :I rather believe it fcr.ved in fome old building for a gutter fpout: 1 know truth may fpeak loud, and have a wide mouth j but he that takes every wide mouth for the mouth of truth, is much miiiaken. The next Church Tcameto was. Santa Maria Egyptiaca:\t was the Temple of the Sun and ]ttpiter. This Church is neatly adorned with cu- rious chanelled pillars. It belongs to the Armenians, who have an Hos- pital alio here belonging to the Catholick pilgrims of that country; and the Pope allows them to cele- brate malTe here after their own Armenian rite, On 8. Maria Hgyftia- Of Italy &j Oh the other fide of the great' Tiazza-, ftands the Church of S. Steven. Its rounded withcjiarielleci pillars alfo. It was antiefofly the Temple of JawMatutina mpming, Juno, or Alba Vea, the Break of" day goddefs : a goddefs which. our Ladies, that never rife till noon, would never have been, devout to. Clofe by this Church ( which ^ •' ftands by the river fide ) the great cloatat fink of Rom*-) called Cloaca Maxi* Kaxiimf mz , emptyed it felf into Tyber*. And though this were but a fink,, yet it deferves to be mentioned a- mong the rare magnifieencies of ancient Rome. For it was noblely. built by. larquinius Prifcus ,.. of" freeitone, arched overhead, with a< world of fprings running into it ;: and it was [o great, that a Cart- might have gone in it,. This fink. was one of the evident tokens of the greatnefs and magnificence of Rome anciently i and indeed a farM^if greater evidence than that of Hdio-*f : ' Rom **\ gabulus v who caufed all the.fpidfers*J^JJf£ # .. webs of Rome to b* gathered toge- ther 2%t §4 The Voyage thcr and weighed, that by Co many pound weight of fpiders webs, the gre«tnefs of Rome might the better be conjectured. Going on from hence by the river fid«,I came to the foot of the mount Aventin and left on my left hand a Ghappcl belonging to the Knights of Malta, Our antiquaries tell ns, that near to this pla'ce flood the Temple of thtBona Dm, into which Temp!* of no man was to enter :and that Cacus
  • (?»/» Df« ft is den was alfo in the fide of this
hiil, into which he dragd Hercules his oxen by the tails that no man (hould find out his theft by the footiteps. Upon the tide of this hill flood alfo the SeaU Gemviia.down which criminal perfons were tumb'- Vtmoni*.'}ed into Tyber. Going up this hill I went to S. Alexius his Church, where I faw the wooden flairs under which this £aint lodged for feventeen years in his own Fathers houle ( after fifteen years abfence)without being known to any body, till after his death. The body of this £aint lies under the high Altar, together with that of Cue MS bit "NH. Stat* S.Ahxi its hit Ghnrth, O f Italt 85 S.Bonif actus the Martyr. Hard by upon the fame Hill, Hands*?. SabinM Church, whither tfie Pope comes upon JJhrrednef- day in a Solemn cavalcata accom- panied with the Cardinals. Here alfo upon this Hill, flood anciently the Temple of liberty and the Romam Armilujhium. Defending -from hence I made towards S„ Vaults Gate; and in the way I faw on my right hand the Hill called M»ns Tejlacius, which was mad* of the broken pots thrown there in the Romans time by the ? oners* Its half a mile about, and i<5o foot high. A little nearer the Gate ©f S. Taull faw the Tomb of Cains Cef- t'ws, built like a Firamid or" Egypt> and all of pure white marble. This is the moil entire work of all the ancient Rowan works. This Cef- t'ws ( as the words upon his Tomb import ) was femptemvir epulonmh that k, one of thofe feaven men called Epuhnes anciently , becaufe they had the devouring, of thofe bavrquets s. Sa- binas Church. ArtnHuJ' trium. Mom tefiitcim* The tomh ofC. Cef- tltyS. Eputonis*- tbt Gatt e/S. Fattl. S. Pauls £hurcb. into. 86 The Voyage banquets which were (cc before the Gods in their Lcttiftemw, in the Temple of Jupiter Cafitolinus. Paffing thence through the Gate of S. Paul, anciently called Porta T'ergem'ma i and Parta Oftienfu j I. went to S. Pauls Church a little mile from the town. In the way I took notice of a little Chappel on the left hand, where S. Peter and S. Paul took leave of one another 5 before they were led to Martyr- dome. Soon after I came to S. Pads Church, here S. P^td was buried by Lmina a Roman Lady, and there- fore (nnjlantin the Great built this Church in the honour of S. Paul as he had done that of S. Peter mentioned above. Its built crofle- wife, and the body of it is 477- foot long, and 258 broad i with a hundred pillars in all, fet in four ranks? all of them ancient round, marble pillars taken out of the Baths of Attoninus , faith Vajfarh Yet in all this vaft body of the Church there are no Chappels^ nor any O* ITALT- ^ any decoration, except at the very end of it, near the great door, where there is an Altar with thefe words in ftone over ir, Hie in- vent um eft caput S. Pattli. The molt remarkable things which I fa where, were thefe. i. The high Altar^w'tth a canopy, offtone like a "tabernacle-, born up by four porphyry pillars,and adorn- ed with ilatues. Under the Altar repofeth half of the bodies of S. Peter and S. Paul (as I obferved before in S. Peters Church ) and as the infeription upon the iide of the Alt*r here affirmes" in thele words t. Sub hoc altari reqttiejcunt glorinfa- corpora Apoftolorum Petri & Pattli pro jKft/iefo/e.Bebind this^/^rftands. the Couftffion of S. Paul like that. of S- Petev defcribed above. Under the little low doors which let the Prieft into the Heps of the Altar are written thefe words in golden letters, himlna Aptfolornm, which Lim'mn, make me bold to hold againft fomc Apftd** modern writers, that this wasthe r * w * precife place, and not the door of the church, which was called Limina dpoftohfum. 2. In 88 Thf Voyage 2. la the old Arch in the top of the roof, is yet feen a piece of Mofaick work reprefenting. our Saviour in the midft of the four and twenty Elders of the Apocalypft- This piece was made there twelve hundred yeares ago in the time of S: Lwthe great ; and at the coft of Flacidia Galla ( daughter of Ihtor dofius-> and fitter of Honorim ) as thetwovcifcsin that Arch teftify thus : VlacidU pia men t operis? deeus omm reportat-i Gaudet VontlficU fiudio fplendere Leonis* 5. The famous Miraculous Cru- crucifix, cinx( Handing inaChappel on the &vcn. kpjMe iide of the High Altar) which fpoke to S. Bridgit. This Crucifix favours the opinion of thofe who affirm that there were two nailes in our Saviours feet. 4. The neat Chappel and Mer- «tfc/eoftheE. Sacrament* with the rare pidures relating there un- to, made by Cavalier Lanfranco. 5. The pi&ure of the Altar of S. Suven made by a Lady of Bolo- gna The mi racttloui OlTAL T $£ gns called Lavinia Fontana. 6. The chief Relicks kept hctc^rMmd are, the Head of the Samaritan Matirol. woman converted by our Saviour : Mtl ' rt a t the Armc of S. Anne mother of our blefTed Lady ; and the Chain of S._ Paul. From S. Fauls Church I went to the Ire Fontane above a mile and a half off, and in the way, f parted over the place where S. Ztno, and ten thoufand Cbrifiians were mar- tyred^ at once by the command of Vioeletianthe butcher. Their blood made this way holy all along. Arriving at the Tre fontane I faw there three Churches ftandifig 1 ' 1 *"** within a place anciently called, Jd tane ' Aquas Salvia*. The firft of thefe three *. Churches is that of S. Vincent and chuuhof Anajlafe, becaufc of their Relicks S.Vincent fent hither. For about the year*'"* 62J. the Emperor Heradim fent the ^"^ Head of S. Anafiafws with the pi&ure of the fame Saint unto Pope Sar inim Hmorius the Firft. A courteouSrtM.627... Father, of S. Bernards Order here, did me the favour to fhew me near the high Altar, this Head, and this Picture. Bar en. go T he Voyage Picture. Thefe two are moil: authen- tical things i for the attefhtion of them is in the very A&s of the fecond Council of Nice held an. 789, where to prove the lawful nets of facred Images againft the Iconoclaflr, the (acred Council cites a miracle yjfo'Stf. wr °ught by this very picfurfc of S. end art. Anaftafms : and Bironius quotes 71 J« divers others wrought by the fame picture. • rt , In the fecond Church here, to wit, Cbmsh ™ e ^ ft ^ e rounc ^ Church on the right hand, there is a famous picture of S. Bernards Extafis. Under this Church I was led into a Vault where many of the bodies of the forefiid ten thoufand Chriftians, who were martyred with S. Zeno, are bury- ed. This vault goes a mile under* ground. In the third place ftands the little Church of the Tre Fontane, fo cal- led becaufe S. FjhI was here be- headed, and where his head jump t thrice, three fountains gufhed out. Upon an Altar on the left hand, is an excellent Picture of S. Peters of Gttido JLbeni Tre Few* tatte. crucifixion 3 of the hand rhe An- Ojr jTALr 91 TUstnu On the other fide is feen a little block (within an iron grate ) upon which they fay S. Pauls head was cut off. Going from hence I went over the fields to the Church of the An- nuntlata one of the nine Churches of Rome vilited by Pilgrims > and from thence to S.Scbjjlians. SM . S. SebjjliiHf Church, is one of tiaut J the feaven Churches, and of great churtb* devotion by reafon of the Cata- eombes which are under it. Here I faw the Tomb of S. SebajUan under an altar on the left hand : many relicks kept over an altar on the right hand : and the Vault under- neath where Pope Steven was be- headed in his own £eat of Hone, and where S. Peters and S- Pauls bodies were hidden many yeares. Thence I was let into the Cata- (Ofnbes which are under this church, and which from thence running many miles under ground, made anciently a Chriltian Rome under the Heathen. There were divers ©f thefe Catacombes in the primi- tive the Ca- tatombes* Get mete - riutn €a iixti. $2 THI VoTAGf tive times, and they were called diverlly : Arenaria, Crjpt*^ Area^ Concilu Martyrftm , Voiiandria , but molt frequently Ctmewia, that is, dermhoria, becaufe here repofed the bodies of the holy Martyrs and Saints qui obdormiverunt in Domino. But the greateft of all thefe C£tne- teria was this of Calixtus. In thefe ■Catacombcs during the perfecuti- onsraifed againft the Chriftians by ten Heathen JLmftrors , the faith- full bdeivers, together with their Popes and Paftors, ufed privately to meet to cxercife their Religion, and fteal their devotions •, that is, to hear Mafs in little round Chappels painted over head poorly, Minifter the Sacraments ; bury the dead Martyrs and Confeflbrs in the walls of the long alleys, preacb,hold conferences -, and even celebnte Councils too fomtimes. I defcended fcveral times into feveral parts of thefe Cdtacombts with a good expe- rienced "guide (which you muft be- fore of) & with wax lights (torches being too ftifling) and wandered in them O f It a ly 93 them up and down with extraor- dinary fatisfa£tion of mind. The ltreets underground are cut out with mens hands and mattocks. They are as high as a man, for the melt part, and no broader than for two men t© ■meet. All the way long, the fides of thefc Alleys are full of holes, as long as a man, and fometimes there are three rowes, one over another, ia which they had buryed theirMartyrs and ConfefTors : and that pofterity might afterwards knowwhichwere Martyrs , which Confeflbrs , they engraved upon the ftone which mur'd them up, or upon one of the bricks , a Palme branch, in fign of a Martyr > and a Pro Cbrijh in Cyphers for a Confcflbr. Its re- corded,that during the forefaid per- fections , a hundred feaventy four thoufawd Martyrs were buryed here in this Ctmetery of Calixtm : among whom were nineteen Popes Martyrs. Hence rhefe Catacombes have alwayes been efteemed as a place of great devotion, and much frequented by devout pcrfons. The words over the door, as you defcend into Op It alt ^4 into them from the Church of S. Sebaftian y tell you , how S. Hie- rome confefftth, that he u(ed every S. Hie- Sunday and H'lydjy, during his ftay Ezecbiel m R me -> t0 g° to thek Catacombes* c.40. ' And a picture hung over the fame door fheweth how $• Philip Neri ufed to frequent thefe holy places „ in the night h and from whence, I believe, he fucked that true fpirit of the primitive Church , which reigned in him, and ftill reigneth in the breafts of his moft vertuous children, the pious Vrie/h of the Oratory of Rome, whom I muft alwayes praife wherefoever I find them, becaufe I alwayes rind them either writing holy things or living them; that is, either write- ing books fit to be lived, or living lives fit to be written. Indeed its incredible how much the prelence of thefe Holy Martyrs bodyes, hath fanftifyed this place : in fo much that no man enters into the cjta- , combes but he comes better out, than he went in. Catholicks coine out far more willing to dye for that faith, for which fo many of their anceftors ♦ have ^5 The Voyag e have dyed before them. The Ad- verfaries of the Roniin Church come out more daggered in their faith, and more miide towards the Ca- tholic]^ Religion, to fee what piety there is even in the bowels of Rome > Atheifts come out with that belief, - that furely there is a God, feeing fo many thoufands of Martyrs have teitifyed it with their blood. From S. Sebijiians I went to the place hard by called Capo di Bove ftanding upon the Via Appia. It is a great building faced about with marble ftones. It was the Sepulcher of Met ell* wife of rich Crajfus. Its now called Capo di Bove becaufeof Cxpodi theoxe heads cut in marble which Bove - compofe the cornice that runns about the top of this Moles. Enter- inginto it you will wonder at the thicknefs of the walls which are above eight ells thick. It was begun to b: pulled down, especially the great marble flones on the outfide of it, to make up ihe Fovtana di Trtvi \ but Cardinal Barberino would r.ot fuffer it to be fo defaced. Clofe by Hand the mines of the fntonmiit flie pre tsrium. Circus $6 The Votagi Pretorium , the Quarters of the Pretorian Bands, which the Empe- rours lodged here, a little out of the throng of the town , that they might not occafion fo eafily tu- mults j and that they might cxer- cifethemfelves often in the Circo of Caratalla which was hard by. This Circus was made by the Em- peror Caracalla, and is the molt Carae»&4 entire of all the Circos that were in Rome. You fee where the Careens y or ftarting place was, where the Meta i where the Guglia were. You fee how long it was, and the walls yet (how you what compafe it car- ryed. In the midlt of it flood that Guglia which now ftands in the mid ft of Piazza Navona- I faw it lye here broken in three pieces, and -neglected quite till the Earl of Arundel our late Lord ftlarjbwl, offering to buy it & having already depofited rtweefcore crowncs in earned for it 5 made the Romans begin to think that it was fome rine thing, and flop the tranfporting of it into England, At lalt it light upon a goodftone- fctter,who joyncd O F I T AL T 97 it Co well together that it now hands (freight again upon a rare baiis, and adornes the very heart of Rome : Thanks to that ingeni- ous architect Cavalier Bernini who fe.t it up there in the anno Sanfio, and whom it fet up too again in the Popes favour Innocent the X. which hehad loft, by a crack in the roof of *he Porch of S. Peters Church, caufedby the heavy fteeple which he had placed upon it. Near the end of the Circus of Caracalla^ (tands an old round Tem- ple, with an other little Ante-Tern- -ffuTempu pie, clofe joyned to its and out of rfv«rtm which you go into the other. H° nC{t * What if this were the Temple of Honour? into which there was no paflage , but through the Temple of Vertue, which was joyned clofe toit, as this is: to manifeft, that Vertue is the way to Honour. Now its certain that thefe two Temples itood not far from the Porta Car- pma (now called S< Sebaflians gate) as thefe two do. But I declare, that this is but gueffing. Hard by theforefaid old Temple fe e there 98 T me Voyage •v/ there is an Eccho which heretofore (as they fay) would repeat after you a whole verfe o (Virgil y but if To, it
    • < Ecthe was m y fortune to 6nd fecr when
{lie had catched a cold : for I could get nothing from her but the two lait words of a fentence. Indeed Aufo nius calls the Eccfo , the tail of words i and Symfofiw faith, that the Eccho is like a modeft Firgi/z : which fpeaks nothing but when (he is asked. Returning from S. Sebajiians towards the town again , I palled by a little Chappel called, Vomim quo vadis ? and anciently called, Sanfta Maria ad pajfur. Its called Vomim quo vadti^ becaufe our Sa- viour appearing here to S. Teter flying out of the prifon of Rome, was asked by Peter , Vomine^quovadij} 9$mine Lord whither goyou^And he an- 1»»v*iis. f W£re( j . y ac [ n irnam m iyi iterum erHcifigar, I am going to Kuns^thac to be crucifyed again : which words Feter undcrftanding rightly,of Cbriji s fufferiug in his members, the faith- full belivers , returned again to Hem*, and was foon after crucified. in Of It alt g$, In the middle of this Chappelarc fcen the prints of our Saviours feet in a white marble (tone with an iron grate orer them. St NtrtM( Entringinto the town by £. St-imiAcku? Ifsftisns gate, I went on ftraeigh to '»*» the Chureh of [&. Ntrcu: aud Acbil- Uur , of which Church Stroma was Cardinal. The bodies *f thele Saints arc under the High Altar. Cardinal Baronruf cauled this Church to be painted with the hif- tories of Saints and martyrs,to excite ethersto devotion by their examples Almoftover againft this Church, s*HSi$* ftands the Church of S. Siih with its snonaftery made famous by $. Dominie!^, who made it his habi- tation, and by whom God wrought many miracles here. It itands in a moft unwholefome place called anciently the Pifcina publica , be- caufe the people ufe to warn them- felvcs here. Here are buryed S Sixtus, Anthem /, Lucius* Lueianus- Sotberus-, & Zepherijius^ Popes and' martyrs. Hercsa fine pi&urcof £« Vinan- tins Ferreriufy Ee 2 Fromi \ ■ S.John AnuVor- tatn La- tittitm. S.John Laterans ChurcJu The Popes Cathedral IGO The Voyage From thence I went towards the the Porta laiina , and there fawtlie Church where* S- John Evaugeliji was put into a caldron of boiling oyle. ^ Then Following the walls of the town for a good while, I came at lalt to S. John Lateral Church, the mother-Church of all Churches in the. world, and the Popes Catpe- dral. In .faying ths I have faid enough •, and I fay this after the words which are written in the architrave over the Porch of this Church >, and after the Bull, of Gregory the Xl. who declared this Church, to be the I?opes chief feat, and to have the preeminency over the other Churches, 0>rbis& Vrhh\ even over S. Peters Church too by name. It was built by Conftam'm the Great upon mount C^lius^ and dedicated to our Saviour himfeli , for whofe fake it defer veththe head- fliipover all the other Churches in the world, as he, to whom it is dedicated, is the Head of all the £le&. Yet it is called diverfly by Ecclefiamcal Authors, Sometimes Bifitica 101 becaufe Con- e times Baftlica Of Italy Biijt/ica Co?;ffantinian *, ftantin built it -, $ tlvatim, bec-aufc it was dedicated to our Saviour. Sometimes Bxftfiea S. Jojinnist becaufe it was near to the two Chappels dedicated to the two S. frhm, in the BaptiUery of Conftantin : fome times it was called Bafilica S. Joannii'm Litsrano^ or S. John Laterals Church, becaufe it . was built upon the place whereP/,?^ tins Laterals tine defigned Confu!, had a fair houfe a:nd a garden, which Nero the Tyrant imade bold withal], having firit macHe bold with their matter, by killing him. Now this, tacitm & the other great Churches of Rom "»* J»- are called Bafilic* , either becaufe ™™ l -l* they arc built afttra Royal and (late- °' ly manner, or e'lfe becaufe they are built to the King of Kings. As for this Church of S. John Lattran, It is here that the Pope taketh polTeffion of his Papal charge, after he hath been chofeti and confecratcd Biftop (if he were none before) in S. Peters Church, tor this reafon all the chief Epif- E e $ copal I©2 T HE VOTAGI sopalFun&ions of the particular D/V ttfe of K<v»e, arc performed here » as the confecrating of Bifhops [and Vrkjify the conferring of the Sacra- ment of Confirmation : the Baptize- ing of converted Jewer and Infidels, tor this reafon its looked upon by the Popes with great refpeci, and hath been not ©nely beautified by them with coftly decorations, fuch as thofc , that Clement the VIII , and Innocent the X made i but alio favoured by them with great prero- gatives i one declaring by his Papal Decree, that this is the Mother Church of all Churches,another fix- ing her every altar it felf(of wood) on which S\ Fetemnd the primitive Popes had offered Sacrifice i another allowing the Clergy of this Church the precedency over the Ciergyof all otherChurchesin publick proctfllons and to carry before them two Crucifixes i another fixing here the Heads of Saint Teter and Saint Van!. As for the things molt to be taken notice of hcn\ they are thefe. i, The O r Italt 105 1. The Sofia or roof of this Church moft richly guilt. 2. The body of the Churchall made new almolt by Pope Innocemthc X, as to the infideof it. 3. The rare painting that runns erofs the Church from the irately Organs to the Altar of the B. Sacra- ment, containg the chief actions of Conjlantin the Great , and other hiftories. That of the Afcenfion of our Saviour,with the Apoltles look- ing up after him, is of the hand of Cavalier Ciapippe. The Hiftoiies and figures about the Chariot of Cmftamin, are of the hand of Bel- l-ardino. That of the apparition of our Saviour, that of Mount Sorac- te , that over again (t Conftantinr Biptiftne, are all of the hand of Paris Romano. That of the Biptifme oiCsnjhntin is of thehaHd oiCavalicr RktVi. In the Quire of the Canons the picture of $. John is of the hind of Cavalier GicfcppC' In fine , the picture of our Saviou in the very (v'tbum , or Abfidi ■> was the flrft picture that appeared publickly in E e 4 Rome 104 The Votasi Kowe, and which was miraculoufly conferved in the burning of this church. There are divers in others pictures in that vaulted Tribun in Mofaick work»& feme fymbolical fi- gures relating to our Saviours life & pafllon, which were much ufed and*- cntly in Churches, as you may fee in many other Churches, and in the rare book called, Kama Soterra- nea. 4. The High Altar here, within which is (hut up rise Woodden Altar which S. Peter and the primitive Popes made ufe of in faying Mafs upon it during the perfecutions, and before they had any fetled Churches. S. Sihefttr in the dedication of this Church, fixed it here, and none can fay Mafs at this Altar, but the
Pope, or during the Popes indif-
pofition fome Cardinal, with a par* ticular difpenfation, or Apoftolical Brief which muft be fattened to one 'of the foui pillars of the Altar , during the Cardinals faying Mafs J there. Over this Altar ftands a great Tabernacle of Marble borne up by four pillars, not onely ferv- ing Of Italt 105 ing for a Canopy, to the Altar, but alfo for an Area to the Heads of*?*™"™ Of o« ttlf ■ S, Peter and S> Paul which are^^, kept within it, and fhown there Paul. to the deople upon great dayes through an iron grate which envi- rons them. 5. The Altar of the B. £acra-> ment adorned by the coft of Clement the VIII, With a curious and pre- tious Tabernacle of rich poliihed ftones, and with four pillars of brafs guilt, about fifteen foot high. Over this Altar is the Table it felf upon which our Saviour eat the Pafcbal Lamb before his Paffion, and then prefently instituted the. Holy Sacrament, of which the P.^ 1 - chal Lamb was but a figure. 6. The brafen Tomb of -Martin: the V, ofthehoufeof Colonna^ who waschofeu Pope in the Council of." Gonftance. 7. The Tomb of- Alexander- the III, of the houfe of BandmeHi in Siena, neatly adorned by Pope Alt' xander the VII, who took his name- ol Alexander r rom him. S. The Tomb of Lattremius VaVa , . E.e 5 a.; ur.viror 106* TiriVoTA©! t learned Roman , and Cbanon of this Church s of whom, as the re- storer of pure Latin language after Jf*A GotieJ^ Barbaroufnefs , Latonim fung Uviamit* thus : Eleg.dec- ^ omH l Hs e jr Frfo, Valla eft idiomatis author : Hie reparat primus , primus ut iUt ftrttit. 9. In old Gofic^ Letters upon the Architrave of the porch of this Church you read thefe Leonint verfes, Vegmate Papali datur ac fimttl Jm- periali, £$ttbd fiff Cmttarum Miter & Ca- put Ecckfiarum. io.In the C/oi/rerofthisChurch,Ifaw the Chair QiTorphyryi which ufeth to "Wplaced neareto the great door of the Church on that day the Pope faketh poMion of his charge in this Ghurchi in which chair the Pope is placed a while, & at his rifing from it again,the Quire lings this vcrfe ©f the 1 12 Pfalm, SufcitatdepttL- vcre egenum &de fi ere ore eregit pau- perem : .and this Ceremony and pierced Chair are onely to put the Pope Of Italt icj Pope in mind of his humane infix- mities^ amidil His glorious exa!-c*w»«r tations, and the peoples applaufes. leK - oma> For To alfo the Greek Emperors on r™ z ' oC \^ the day of their coronation, had a great many marble itones, of fe- veral colours , prefented to them, to choofe which of them they would, to make their Tomb of. This was, #***" to put them in mind of their "," M C mortality amialt thofe great ho » nours. But its ftrange to fee how the ene- mies of the Pop>es, give out mali** cioufly, that this Chair (whofe ufe, we fee Co plainly in the very Cere- monial of Rome ) was only in-j^U#J^i t e nded >ad e xphrandu mfexum ,and -to *Cy hiwder the inconvemency of another/: * Pope Joanne-Vox this reafon I think^ . it not amifs to examine a little this&iBN fable of a free Pope , or of a Pope,' Joanne. I am not affraid at* all to call this a. fable, both for the unlike- *^>.*W, linefs of it in generall i as alfo for "f^W the fufpeded authority of ; its nrfi J 9 """" broachers , the contrarieties in the fiory > and the little credit given, - id n-./.. ioB The VoTsagk iftdtff***-' unto it by the learnedeft adverfa- &**• ries of the Roman Church. Firm, what can be more unlikely than that Vnlikf- a woman mould furprife iuch a wife lintfstf nation as the Italians are 3 and Co
      1. /ȣ/?. grofly > what more unlikely, than
/? <__ that a woman fhould pafs her youth < ^ y \r in^thofe fevere itudies, which arc ^^\jo(t^ ZQ P lxt ^ ln P°P es ? without being _^ c y£i nown t0 nave wronged , or dif- ^oi^-^ . covered her fexe •, and that me muft ^v jufl do it, when (he was in a do e£\*-si>frV dining age, at which age Popes Vrifrff' 1 **** ordinarily are choien? What more ■g.^JL-JW*- unlikely, than that a woman find- (■Jfefig^ing her felf great with child, mould ilS «****«* venture to gafo far a foot in a
  • o!!X4i-'^^P roGe ^ on - What more unlikely,
»■ ■ '. , £ than that, if there had beenfucha ^ffm (he Pope, the Greek Church (which then was at odds with the Roman Church) mould have patted it over in filence, and not have upbraided her with fuch a difgracefull Pafior, efpeciaily feing the Romz* Church hud upbraided the Greek Church with having an Eunucbiox her chief Patriarch ? What in fine more un- likely than that there fhould haw been Of Italy' lep been fuchafheePope Co publickly-y" convinced to have been a wpmawCJ^ & that Anafiafius Bibliothecarins who^ ' ■ wr/te the lives of the Popes fomG* thirty years after that pretendedj^^ time, and who mult have lived ivT^jP'qP her time, fpeaks nothing of any fucl ^HM£ womaHjOr any fuch ftrang accident s2&J Secondly, the firft broachers of th ™ lr this itory make it very much fuf- p 00 f. *+ peeked, feeing Martians Telonns^^^^cS^ and fome others of the Emperors mo V~sr~y faction ( then at variance with tne <#T$£^ Popes ) are thefirft that mentioned %^*/ft& this fable: and Tlatina, who quotes ntarfytu*- no higher authors for it, grounds a «°™»;ft»*» ilory of this confluence upon no^3*2JS? better authority than "a weak 5 fig e3 / r $.<-/,^& dice, its fatd. r^TiF*** Thirdly, the apparent conf radi&i- di&i*n in 0ns in thetale,convince it of falfity: *1***U, - as that this Joue was an Engliih *M* 6 t woman born in Nhntz , which air men know to be a Rhenifh town in Germany: and that (he had ltu- dyed at Athens in Greece vv hich long before thistjme had been dc- itroyed. Fourthly* the little credit given to y 10 ■-JM The Vota«i to it by the learnedeft adverfaries S/tilvtrfk- of the Roman Church, to wit, four ries con- • minifters of France (who take iris it to r . . _ , , - > kafabh tniS hiitory for a meer table)proves fufficiently that its wprfe than an old wives tale. For Mr. Blondelz French minifter ( whom I knew in Paris above twenty years ago ) and a man of that account there, that he was chofen to anfwer the learned book of Cardinal Peron: this Won- del-, I fay, made a book in French ( Printed at Amsterdam by Bleat* Anno i647inOifcavo) on purpole to (hew , that this (lory of afhee Pope called Joanne was a meer fable. And that we may not think that W.ondel alone of all Proteftant Minilters , held this for a fable, Monftettr Serravits a great Galvinift and Counsellor ef the Parliament of Paris-, in a letter of his to Salma- fins having mentioned to him this book of BlondeU addeth thefe . words': No/It autem- eredere primttm • tut folnm e nojlris Blo»dellum it* fenjiffe : quamvis fortaffis^ mnto un- qtum fortius & pefftus ift»d folum edit a vent 'Swrtviii Of It-alt ir* talcaverit. Fnere enint in eadem fextentia no* inctlebres inter Refor~ i matof Tbeologi: & adbue vigent in hae Vfbt infignes fide & fietate viri^ qui Audierwit ex ore Camttii, fe . . . iftam hijloriam-) vulge creditsm r fa- bnlofis depware. Vidi n*per Jcriptar litteras dotti & vegeti Jenis, tibique & mibi anticijjrmi, Betri Molinti , quibus idem -Jenifer fibi ejfe vifum df- B firmabat Mo»li**{ Penes me font liter£ Samnelis Mecbtrti, qtdbur tejiatnr fibi ejfe pro comperto vanum & fiSHtium , fothart.*^- quicquid batttnus de ea fit proditwn. Thus MohJichi- Serraziuf in a pri- vate letter ( though his fe>n after his death printed his letters) to a friend of the fame religion : And thus you fee, how this table main- tained highly a long time by the adverfaries of the Roman Church, expired at lair ( as all lies do ) and. was carried to its grave upon the moulders of four French minifters: Biondel , Chamhr^ dn Mwlin , and : Rcchart. If I have been a little too long in this digreflion you will par- don me ; We are all debtors tc v truth "Ci M2 The Vqyagjs truth •, and all men ought to be glad to fee themfelves difabufed. Going out or' the little back door haptifien °^ l ^ is Church, I went to ^ ee tne c/co«- B^ptiftery of Conftantin the great, fixntine. our molt noble Countryman, & the firft Emperor that publickly pro- felTed Chriltianity. ThisBaptiflery is built round, and in the center of it, in a defcent of four uVps, (lands the Tery Font, in which the faid Emperor was baptized by Pope Sylvtfter. Its environed with low rails of marble, and adorned with ten, or twelve great pillars of Porphyry ( the faireft in Rome ) which bear up the painted Vault over the Font: fo that people ftan- . ding about thefe nils, may fee conveniently the baptizing of Jews and Inhdels in the pit below. Upon the walls of the round Chap* pel, are painted in Frefco the mod memorable actions of Conftantin the great : as his vilion of the Crofs in the Air, with thefe words above it , In bocfi^no vincef : his overcoming the Tyrant Maxen- tiHSi his baptifm here by S. Sih vejhr, I Of italt rig t/rfarihis burning the Libels againft CatholickBifhops, preferred to him by the Arrians : his kifling the wounds of thofe good Bifhops in the Council of Nice, who had either their fingers cut off, or one eye put out by the Tyrants. *?' s t ca! «  On the other fide of S. JihnLa- terans Church Hands the Scala Santa, and the Sand a Sanftorum. The Scala Santa is called from the flairs, twenty eight in all, up which our Saviour was led in his paffion to Pilates houfe.Upon fbme of them you fee the places where the pre- tious blood of our Saviour had fil- len:& for that reafon they are cover- ed with little grates of brafs, which let in eyes, but keep of knees: I fay knees i for none go up thefe holy flairs otherwife than kneeling, and this out of reverence to him who often' fell upon his knees as he was dragged up and down thefe itairs. Its painful enough to go up thefe itairs upon your knees, yec I faw it done hourly in the Jwbiiy year, by continual flocks of devout people both men and women >. of great V J tttt »V f*nSo rum, X Set fun- mcela. Lib. Deta Kotti* it Veca- bolt Ec- eitjiiifthi) in verb» Achyre- V 114 The Voiage great condition as well as of great jdevotiop.Thcfe holy Itairs were fent from Hierufahm to Cottflantin the great,by his mother Queen Helen ^to- gether witlt many other relickskept in S. John Ltaeams Church. They are of white marble,&above6foot long. At the head of thefe flairs (lands the Chappel called Sanfta Santto-, rum-, bccaule of the holy things kept in it. Hence over the Altar in this Chappel, arc written thefc words. Non eft in teto San&ior Orbe Locus. Upon the Altar is kept the mi- raculous picture of our Saviour, it reprefents him about thirteen years old, & only his half body. Its about a foot and a half long,and its faid to have been begun by S. L«^, but ended miraculouily by an Angel. Others fays that S. Luke having only prepared the ground , and before he had drawn one ftroke, fell to his prayers to beg of God that he might draw his Son right, and riling up again he found his picture already fcni&ed. Hence Demenico Magri ( a learned Anti- fuarie ) is ©f opinion , that this picture Of Italy i/£ pi&ure of our Saviour is that very ^ picture which AnafiaftHf Bibliotbe- eariuf in the life of Stephen the II, calls Acbyrofata , that is , made without hands. Round abeut this picture goes a fet of great jewels enriching the frame of it. Under the Altar rep&feth thic body of S. Anafiafim , of whofe. head and picture I fpoke abowe in the de- fcription of thti e Crmrcrh of this Saint at the Tre Fontane. \ {Here arc alfo kept the heads ofS. ,Agnts and S. Traxtdtsj with many corner pretious Rclicks. AncienfiJy, ( as the Re- cords here mentiwi") the Holy Prepuce, or Foreskin of our Saviour was kept here too ; bat being taken away in the fackof Km*j, by one o»fc*M, of Bourbons foldiers, it W2S left in a Couutry Town called Calcata, fome fifteen miles difUnt frons Rome by the fame Soldier who could not j^ (H0 , reft day nor night, as long as he had chit Ctn- that r«/ici^about him.I once paffed by turi* i.tf. that town ( Galcata ) by chance, and 10, by the civilities of the Lord of the Town, Count of AnguWara , at whofc houfe we were noblely enter- tawed Triclini- um Lio- ttis. Il£ The Voyage tained all night, had the happinefs the next morning, to fee this pre- tious relick through the cryftal cafe: This Count keeps one key of it, and the Parrifh Prieft the other, without both which it cannot be itti\. Ncer to the Scala Santa is feen a famous piece of antiquity of Chri- H'un' Rime^ called Triclinium LeoaU: where is Cccn a Mofaick picture of our Saviour refufcitated, and hold- ing out a book to his difciples , in. which are written thefe words:P^w s/<?£#:Peace be to you: which picture Leo caufed to be made eight hundred. years ago as an emblem of his peaceable return again To his (eat , after he had been chafed out by his enemies. Upon a pillar on the right hand, is painted our Saviour fitting, upon a Throne and giving with one hand, the keys of the Church toS. Peter, and with the other, the imperial ftandard to Conftantin the great. Upon the other pillar on the left hand, is -reprefented in Mofaick work alfo, S Peter fitting, in a chair,and with one hand giving unto Pope Lto the III the Papal ftole O* Italy UJ ftolejand with the other, the impe- rial ftandard unto Charlemagne, who had reftored this Pope Leo to his feat again. From hence palling again by S. John Lateram Church, I faw firft , the pallace of the Pope here, built by Sixtut Quintus : then the great Guglia ( with Egyptian Hyemglypbes figured upon it) which had ltood anciently in the Circus Maxitnus: its above ico foot high, and was brought from Alexandria to Rome by Conftantin the great. Laftly in a low room joining to the Church, I law the ftatue in Bronze of Htnry the IV of France, (et up here by the Canons of S. John Later am ■> for having caufed ten thoufand Crowns a year to be reftored to this Church , which was due to it in France. I looked alfo into the fair Hofpi- fhe Uof- tal which ftands hard by the fait- pttalof- faid Church, and fo well ferved & s. John tended,thatmany perfons of quality in their ficknefs defire to be trans- fered hither ,that they may be better looked to,than they can be at home. Taking 9. St if a t»ni$. nil*. 1 19 The V or age Taking the wall of the old Aqui' &H&, of" Claudius along with me I went to San Stefano Kotondo^ (land- ing upon the mount Ccelittt too. This Church now belongs to tho Seminarijis of the GeinunColledge. Upon the round walls arc painted curioufly the martyrdoms of ancient martyrSjWith the divers instruments ofthe hcatheasjwhercwith they tor- v mented the poor Chriftians. s.Mafia Over againft this Church (lands ih N*vi- the Church of Santa Maria deia Navi<ella> fo called from a little ftone (hip which Rinds before it, being a vow of certain boatmen. This Church in ancient authors, is called in Dominica , or in Ciriac* becaufe of a holy woman called Cirtaca , in whofe houfe here S. Laurence diftributed all the Church goods he, as Deacon, had in his hands, unto the poor. Hard by (lands the Villa of the Duke Mattbei, where I faw the neat houfe full of curious (tatues,and crufted on the outfide with rare antieaglie. Among the reft I took particular notice of the heads of itutut TiU M»thti. Of I talt I20 Brutus and Ysraa, ma* and wife in f : one ftone : the ftatues of Cleopatra : of HtrcuJes : of three little boyes Sleeping and hugging one another: the head of Cieere rarely well cut: the ftatue of \Aarcus Aurikus- A rare table of pretious ftones. In an other houfe here ( looking tCWards San Sijis ) I faw the incomparable ftatue of Andromeda expofed to the \ Sea monfter, its of pore white marble, andofthehandof Olmtro. That other there of Ap%\U fleaing Mar/tat, is an excellent piece too, and in white marble : fo is alfo that of the Satyre plucking a thorn out of his foot. The curious alley, L waterworks.grotts, walks, wetting ^ places, and the intricate labyrinth, are all very delightfome. Defending from hence I went to the old Amphitheater, called now the Cilift-6) beeaufc ofaColoflean ftatue The Am- that ftood in it. This is one of the t httt * t,r . rareft pieces of antiquity in Rome-, and though Romt be grown again, by her new pallaces, one of the fipeft Cities of Europe^ yet her very ruines* are finer than her new build- ing^. 120 The Voyag* ings. And though I am not ignorant how Rome-, fince her Ladyfhip go- verned the world, and was at her Rome greatne(s,hath been iix fe veral times "jackfdjix ruined, and facked, by the envy times, and avarice of barbarous nations ( Vifegoths , IVandals , Ernies , Of- trogotbj\ r totila who fet fire on Kerne 1 8 daies, together, and the Germans under Bourbon ) whofe malice was Vefari in] fo great againtl Rome, that of thirty i re f a fix Triumphal Arches once inK^we, their remain but four now vi- sibly appealing j that often 1berm<» anciently, but two remain any way vifiblei that of feven Circos-, but one now appears : yet as of fair Ladies, there remain even in their old age, fair refts of comlinefs : (b the very ruines of Romz^ which malice could not reach tcv nor ava- rice carry away, are yet fo comely, that they ravifl") u;ill the beholders eye with their beauties, and make good the faying of an ancient au- thor, that Roma jacens quoque mira- culo efiiRome is a miracle even in its mines. But to return to the Colijeo^its an other wonder of the world : & I wonder Fliny* Of It alt 121 wonder indeed, how fuch prodi- • gious ftones could either be laid together in a building, or being laid together, could fall. Vefpafian ^ began it V but Vomitlan finished it •, te dat t<t- and Martial flattered it as a wonder for Am- which outftript all the wonders ott hiths(t - Egyfi and its Pyramids. It was tr °' u,iitm of" a prodigious height, as that part^ L£ c ~ of it yet ftanding fticweth. The u( m>m form of it was round without, and op«*. oval within and the outfide of it was adorned with the three orders of pillars, great arches below, open galleries above, both to walk in, and to let people into the Am- pbitbeattr? and out again without crowding: fo that two hundred thoufand people could go in or out, in half an hours time, with- out crowding. Within, it went up from below by fteps of ftone unto the top, and afforded room enough to all that world of people to lit conveniently, and fee the combats and fports that were exhi- bited in the Arena. Anciently the top of it was fet round with ftatues, f t and in time of great heats or rains, V' " F f it N. Met a Sudttns I2X The V oyagi it was all overfpred with great fails. From its roundiln form it got the name of Amphitheater, from feeing on all fides. Underneath were the eaves for the wild beafls, out of which they turned them loofe to righ^ fometimes againft condem- ned men-, fometimes againft inno- cent Chriftians. Nero made the Chri- ftians be clad in the skins of bealts} and fo to be expofed to Lyons and Bears. Sometimes alfo gladiators fought againll: gladiators* and one gladiator againll: twenty others: nay the very noble Romans them- felves would now and then right here publickly, cither to (hew fport or valour. And all this was done by the politick Romans, to teach men not to be afraid of bloodfhed and death in tjme of wars, with which they had been fo acquainted in time of peace. The old round rubbage of brick which is here near the Jmphiibea- /cr, was anciently a .tine fountain ailed Met a Su dans, ftrving for the ufe of thofe that came to the fports here. It was all faced with marble, and ife— ••* G F Italt 125 and had aftatueof Japz/erof brafs upon it. Hard by ftands the Triumphal^ Arch of Co»{iantin the great. Its all rhritmi of marble, with a world of curious pbalanh ftatues anciently,but now headlefs, c f Con ' and with hiftories in bafli rilietti. ltj"?^ was erected to him in memory of his victory over the tyrant -Maxem^ as to the freer of the City,& founder of publick quiet. As the words here import, Liberatori Vrbis^ Fundatori §>uhtis. From hence I went to the Church of S. Iobn and Pauh and thence to S. Gregorks Church,which anciently ^ G had been his houfe. They (hew us r hs * g ' yet the place and the table where cbnrtV. this holy man in recompenfe of his charitable hofpitalicy to the poor, deferved to have an Angel, and the Lord of Angels for his gudts. Hi treated dayly here iipoor men, ifl honour or the 1 2 Apoitlts. In one of the Chappels you fee a fine flame of white marble of S. Grigairyi in his Pontifical robes - , it was creeled to his honour by Cardinal B/nw^r, who was a devout admirer of him. 1: 1 2 1* %A 124 The Vota^gi In the garden belonging to the monaftery of S. Gregory , there is to be Teen a cave in which I faw upon the wall fome old painting of the higheft times of Pagan Rome : pitti- ful fluff, yetconfiderablefor itsan- cientneis. From hence I went to the Baths jntomta or Ihermt, of the Emperor An- bk Math, toniw-, looking more like a Town, than a bathing place. Indeed Ammianus MarceUinus out throws ine, and calls thefe, and the other 'tbermd'm Rime, Lavacra in modum frovinciarum exftrufta '. Bathing places built like provinces.And judg whether of us hath more reafon, by that which we read in the Excepts Olympodori , where its faid , that thefe baths of Antonius had a thoufand fix hundred feats of po- liced maihle \ for as many perfons to fit and bath in a part : nay, fome of thofe bathing places were paved with filver, and were adorned fo curiouily with filver pipes for the water,with ftatuespivfrures,& preti- ous ftones, that Seneca cryes out: E$ del.ciarum Vmimus , tit nifi gemmas Of Italy 125 gemm.tr calcare nolimtcss We arc come to that delicacy that we fcom to tread upon any thing but jewels : Now thtfe baths ferve only for the . Roman Seminaries to recreate in. jj.,*,. Returning from hence between mm. the mount Avenrin and the mount Talatin , I faw the place where the Circus Maximns flood. This was the greatelt of all the Circos in Rome, as its name (news. It was begun by Tarquinius Vrifctij , but afterwards much augmented by Ittlius Cafar and Augifittt* It was three ftades long, aud four akers wide(the Roman ftade was625foot, or 1 25 pacesjat laft it was adorned with itatues and pillars by Trajan and-He!iogabuhts. A hundred and fifty thoufand men could fit conve- niently in the three open galierics, One of which was for the Senators the fecond for the gentlemen, and the third for the common people. The two great Obelickj, to wit, that before Porta del Topth^ and that before S. Iohn Laterals flood in it. Under this building were many Ff4 vaulted the 126* T * E Voyage Vaulted Caves called in Latin, For- nices, were lewd women prosti- tuted themfelves for money, and fo from thefe Fornices came the word Fornicatim. Going from hence toS. Georges Church, I faw on my right hand , the goodly ruines of the Emperors Emperors pallace , called Palazzo Maggiore. Ftilace. It poflfefTed almoft all the Palat'm hill, as the ruines (hew. Stately ruines I confefs: but ruines, and imperial ruines. And here I could not but wonder tofee,the pallace of the pcrfecuting Emperors ruined quite, and the Church of the poor Fifherman itanding itill, more glo- rious than ever. Before I came to S. Georges Church I ftept into S» Anajtaf.us Church , which was anciently. the Temple of Neptune: and from thence to the oldfquare Temple, commonly held to be the Temple ot Ia?ms Qnadri- foris : and withfome reafon , be- cauf e it hath four doors in it, and twelve Niches upon every lid e of the fquare cut tide. The four doors "P* dented the four ftafons of the year : Temp'ttm OfItalt 127 year: the twelve niches, the twelve months of the year : yet others vvil j have it to have been only an Arch, or Portick or a Lodge : and while they difpute if He go on to S. Geor- S.Gecrges gej Chuch hard by to which Church Chureh. . is joined an old Arch curioully carved in marble, which wat erec- ted here, by the merchants or gold- fmiths, to the Emperors Scverus^ &C M. Anrelms. Near unto this Church of S. George came anciently the water of Tiber: and this water or creek of\- „., the river was railed Velabrum , brum. becaufe men pafled over the river here by boat, and fometime with a little fail, when the wind flood fair. From hence I went to the round Church of S, Tbeodoro (landing in theK'D Bosrit. This was ancient- ly the Temple ofR omulus and Ktmus bfciuft it was here that thofe two brothers were expofed, and nou- rished by a (he-wolf which found them here. Not far from hence I ftept into F f 4 the Forum Eoctrium, [2$ T ft « Vota«e the Tern p!eof Yrft*. the hofpital of our Lady of Com- folation.This was once the Temple oiVefka. And here it was that the Veftal Virgins ( inftituted by Numa) kept the Eternal fire , the ex- tiBguifhing of which was held by the fuperititious heathens , fatal to the ftate •, and therefore they committed the keeping of this fire to Virgins of great repute and ho- Tbt Vejtal n0 ur. Thefe Virgins were t© be i© "!'«>. y £ars j n i earn i n g t heir profeffion } i o years more in exercifing it, and other ten years more in teaching it toothers. And for this reafon they had great priviledges given them. For if in going up and down the City, they met by chance, a crimi- nal man going to be executed, they had power to free him. If any of thefe Veftals forgetting her fdf had wronged her virginity, they would not , out of reverence to her pro- feflion, lay violent hands on her by the common executioner , but they buried her alive in a low vault made for the nonce. From hence I entered into (he Set Plw tarcb in Kttma* Qf Italy I3£ tamp Vaecittt, and prefently fell^,^., upon three pilhrs of admirable p racd- ftru&ure:they belongd to the temple theitm- of Jupiter Stater built by Rctnu!us-:P leo f lH ~'i The occafion was this. ^■ Qmu ^ Hs ^s\lm» in a battle againfl: the Sabins> feeing his men give back, made a vow prefently to I^ifer, that if he would flop their flight and make them ftand to it, he would build him a Temple : Sifte fcedam fngam , faid he to lupittr : The men flood 9 and the Temple was built to Inciter Stater who made men ftand.But this hipiter Stator could not make his own Temple (land y for its now Co ruined, that antiquaries are fcarec fure where it flood. Clofetothefe three pillars ftands * the Church .of Santa Maria Libt~ r •atria at the foot of the Palatin hill, why this Church is focal led both a long writing in the Church, and Baronins in his annals, tell at length. Near to this Church flood the tatm • | Lam Curtii , a flink'nag a puddle C*«*H which annoi'd the Romans much, , , Ff k . andi Ad A»»>x 3M 150 The Voyage and which the Oracle allured was not to be ftopt up but by cafting into it the mort pretious thing in Rome. Hereupon the Ladies threw in their bed Jewels*, and the Noble- men, every one what he hid the moft pretious., but all in vain. At lafi Cmtins a brave young noble- man, thinking that there was no- thing; more pleafant than a gallant manj mounting on horfebackin a brave equipage, in fight of all the people, jumpt into this Lake alive, ?"*'*' as a viclime devoted to his coun-
  • " etbs'rs tnesferviee* and the hole hereupon
clofedi I confefs a brave Cava- lier is a pretious jewel indeed: and I remember that a Roman Lady having (hewed her jewels to Cornelia the mother of the Graecbi, and ha- ving defired her to fhew a'fo her jewels, (he called for her two young fons ( brave youths ) and faid i here Madam, are my jewels: and in my opinion, Cm, fas wasfome- what vain glorious, to thinkiiim- i&lf to be the braveft man in the City : it the ro'es and judgment of the fir, O f It alt 13-1 of all the people had declared hiH9> to be fo ( as they did afterwards declare Scip'w Nafita to be the beft man of all the Romans > and the matrons declared Snlpith to be the cliafteft matron of her time) 1 then he might have devoted himfelf more freely for his countrysfafety. Going on from hence on the right hand (till, I came t© the door of ' Farnefes garden. This garden Farnef&s ftands upon the mount Pa!atinS ar ^" where anciently the Emperors had their Pallace which took up all the upper part of this Hill, but not all the skirts of it.for I rind, that I the goddeflfe Feaver, & the god- defs Viriplaca had their temples here, and Catalin and Cicero their houfes. Entring into this garden I found fome pretty waterworks & grottes at the entrance , and fine . high walks above, overlooking the place where the Grew Maximus flood anciently. The fcholars of the English Colledge in Rome have a ^ 'j -* piece of this hill fot their Vine a vwwil* aad recreation place, to breath on upon dayes si Vacancy, Following^ 132 Th* Voyage Following ftill my right hand* I sfo nnh came to the Arch of Titus v a •jTit$u. Triumphal arch erected to him upon his victory over the Jews. j Hence you fee here engraven in ' mezzo rilieuo the faid Emperor in a Triumphant Chariot : and on the other, the Holy Candleftick of the temple of Hierufalent, the ark of the alliance, and the tables of the Law, which this Empcrour brought with him after, his taking of Hurttjakm , to grace his Tri- umph. This is the moft ancient Triumphal Arch in Rowe, and it Jtood in the .via Sacra which went under it. Wheeling about tbe Campj Vac* rino^ ftill on my right hand, I came €h*nbof t0 the Church of SanSa Francefta s.rran- R****#0 1 otherwife called Santa ttfcaR.9 -Maria Nuwa. Here I faw the neat mma. Tomb of that Saint in brafs guilt, made at the coft of Pope Tnnotmt the X. Heres alio cut in white mar* ble, and ftandingupen an altar the hiftory of the Popes returning again to Rome from dvjgon. I faw alto facre a rare lute of hangings belong- ing Or Italt 131 ing to this Church, and given by the Sifter of Pope Innocent the X. Hard by, Hands the Temple of . Peace, that is, forae remnants of if peace. that Temple. It was once the moft noble of all the Temples ( as the pillar before S. Mary Majors great door, which belonged to this Temple, (heweth) It was 200 foot large , and 300. long : but now little fignes of its beauty remain; warres and time defacing the mo- numents of Peace. It was built by Vefpafian who placed in it the fpoiles of the Temple of Hierufalem brought to Rome by "Titus . Behind this Temple llandfc a neat garden belonging once to Cardinal Pio, where I faw neat water works. Its now fold.to another matter. Goingon ftill in the Camp Vac- cina on the right hand, I came to the round Church of S. Cofmo and fhtchmth 1 S.Vtmiano, anciently the Temple ^ %^\ of Caftor and ToUux : becaufe the™^*" Ramans having feen t wo men upon Sweating horfes , that told them. ECW5 134 The Voyage news of a battle wonu by their Conful, and Co vanished, they ima- gined them to be Gafior and Pollux^ and thereupon decreed them this Temple. TheMofaick work in the roof of the Tribune deferves your particular attention, for the Symbo- lical figures fake. Going on Mil, I came to the t0 '-j"^ Church of S. Lorenzo in Miranda. randa. It was once a Temple dedicated to FaHjUna the Emperefs by her husband Antoniw. Poor man ! he could not Metfit in make her an honcft woman in her vita M. lifetime, and yet he would needs <-*««'"*• make her a Goddefs after her £!u'ii death ' The Porch otthiS Church i 4.C 11 . s ftate | y ^ by reafon of its great marble pillars. A little further (lands the Church of S.AdriaHo^ anciently dedicated totter?* who firft- taught the Ita- lians to make Money, and therefore the Romans placed their JErarhtm piblicum, The PubUck Treafury in this temple,and had their Mint hard by it. . S. Martina Church followes the me'xt ■> and in a low Chappel neatly adorned S.Adri*' Of F alt. 135, adorned, I faw her Tomb i Here flood anciently the Temple of Mars, the Revenger. Before this Church ftands the ™ *|- Triumphal Arch of Stpimius St- Jrcho f verus rarely cut with figures in mar- Severn. ble in mezza rilievo. Half of it is huryed under ground ,the other half is fore battered with the aire, who would think the aire and the Earth to be devouring elements, as well as the fire and the water ? But why do I accufe the Air, when its onely time ( which taketh a pride to triumph our Triumphs > that hath battered this Triumphal Arch, and moultered even marble ? A little higher on the hill fide 5 ^ ftands the little Church of 8- Jo- Jepb, where I fa w- in the low grot underneath, the prifon called an- ciently TnBanumi into which pri- fonS. -P«<r and S, ^*'*k« c £™ (hut up. I defended into the low"*' m dungeon where S. Teter baptised Froeejfm and Mjrtittianut, his two keepers, with divers others.- The Fountain of water that fprung up mina1l.9u.ny for that holy function, &; & ih* Co- mittum* l$6 The Voyage isftillfeen there in the bettom of that dungeon* Many other brave buildings flood anciently in this For* Romano, worth remembringiasthe Comitium y or publick place of affembly v fo called a coeundo : it being the Great Hall of juftice, in which was erec- ted a large Tribunal, where the Frxtor ( our Lord chief Juftice J fat in an Ivory chair, called CeVa Curulti , and miniftred juftice to the people. In this Comitmm ftood the Statue ofHiratiu? Codes ^and in the corners of it , thofe of Fythagiras and Alcibiades. In this Foro alfo, flood the Roftra, (a great Pulpk , made of the Roftra or brafen fnouts of the mips wonn from the Antiaus) where Orators ufed to plead, and where fully thundered, Behind the Roftra ftood Romulus his Tomb, and before the Roftra, the Tomb oiFauftus the fofttr Father olRomu- Mounting up from hence to the Capitol by the Coach way, Ifaw, upon the fide of the Hill, the piU lars that belonged once to the Tem- ple OfItalt 13:7 pic of Concord, built by Camillus,
  • nd not far from hence , three
other pillars of neat Fabrick which belonged to the Temple of Jupiter tonans, Thundering Jupiter, built there by Augustus c/far , after he had elcaped a thunderclap which killed his Litter man clofe by him. Arriving at the Capitol, I was glad to fee that place fo famous in ^ c */*' the 'Reman ftory.Its name of Capitol came from the Head of a vmn{caput in Latin) found underground when they firft laid the foundation here ^ of the Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus. Juftur Lypfius, as if he had been the Godfather of that man whofe head was found here , faith , that his name was tolus, and that from Caput toll came Capitolium. This head found here portended, that 2?o»;e(hould oae day be the head of the world. And this title isfouni- verfally known to belong to Rome, that all authors affirm it, and every petty artifan in Rome, will tell you fo, though in falfe Latin, as one did Aupet turpi a, 138 The Voyage did me, when hearing mc praifc K<?me, and thinking that 1 did it not enough, cryed out to me, half in Italian, and half in Latin } Cafpitra, S ignore , Roma e(i capvs mmidU which faying made me both fmile, and lay to my fe!f, that fuch a Head as this fellows, found now under- ground, woultl portend the ruine of the Latin tongue. I went rirft to the higheft part of that Hill,called anciently Rupes Tar- peia. It looks down upon the Theater of Marcelluf, and is nothing fo high a hill as I conceived when I firft read Livy. For I expe&ed to have found here a hill at leaft like that in India called Darin, which Curtius deferibcs, hhtnjier paints our, and H-rcuks could not takes but. coming to it, I found it to be a hi!! of that eafy afcent 3 that I had ridden up far higher in Savoy and Swijferland* 2, Then returning the fame way ftrifftatua again to the piazza of the Capitol, of Mar- j f aW t jj C t ^ e f amous Equeftris cus Jure-. „ r . . * ,• St aim of Mar ens Aureluts ', once guilt Thi Eqtti. cus Of It alt 139 guilt over, but now appearing to be plain brais. This is the nobleft ftatuc in the worldjand I was going to fay, the nobleft ftatue living ifor it feems almoft to live and breath by the workmans art : it is noble alio becaufe it reprefents a man io noble as Marcus Aunlius , who was a double Emperour,being both a great Emperour and a great Philgfopber. Hard by this Equejhis flame are feen two Colojfean ftatues, powring out t,wo rivers, the one reprefentmg Niluf, the other Tygrti. Over them Itandsa ftatue of Rome fomething like f alias, her face is of white marble, her garments of Porphyry* 3. I law the 'trophies of Marin s cut anciently in (tone in honour oiihetr*- that great General, who from acorn- P h,eso f mon foldier came by his warlike m * vertue, to be feaven times Con ful. * 4. I viewed the two great ftatues of Conftantin the Great in white marble, with the Horfes. 5. I law the MiliUrunti that is, a little pillar of ftone with a great J}* Mil - iomid brafen ball upon it. This ltmum " pillar 14° T?H« VoTA'GI Pillar flood anciently in the Tors Romano before S. Adrians Church and it was erected by Auguftuf< C&far. It was called MiUiir'ium bc- caufe from itthcRomjns counted the miles., that were from Home to every great City of Italy , or of the Empire, and the fir ft mile dif- tant from this pillar, was called primus ah Vrbt Lapis j and fo of the reft. 6- Then cntring into the Co*- wittmtir fi wai * r * a * that, is the pallaceefthe vat or it. Confervatort or Senatsrs , I faw there the Statues of Julius Csfar and jiHguflns CdfAr. Then in the.little court I faw marked up upon the out wall in a marble (tone, the Roman meafures, as their Carnta, Talme &c (as we have a)l meafured by the Ell, and yard, ) that all merchants may know whereto find whether his meafures be Iawfujl and juftj or no. Then the foot, hand, thighs, and head,in marble fcattered here and there in this court, yet all looking as if they had belongd to the great Ctkjfus of JpolJo, made Of Italy 141 by the command, of LmcuI'us. Thea the rare (tame of a Lyon tearing a borfe. The Tomb of Mammea % and Alexander Sevtrus her Ton, with the rape of the Sabims upon it in a baffo rilievo. The little Egyptian Idol fet high up over this Tomb. The head of the Emperor Commodus in brafs, with a hand of the fame. 7. Hard by the (tairfoot as you mount up to the Ch ambers , ftands the Golonna Rofirata , a marble pillar fome twelve foot high, deck- ?;£* ed with jtemms of (hips cut in ' marble , and flicking ©ut of the pillar, with an Infcription in the bafts' below in fcurvey old Latin. I found it fpoke of a Sea Victory wonn over the Carthaginians y and ofDttjlius ; and I cared for no more, becaufe Livy, in better Latin^ tells- me the relt : to wit, that it was VuIihs that of a 1 the Romans got the firft Naval Victory ; and then I eafily concluded, that this pillar was creeled to him for that fervice. Its almoft as hard a thing to coo- ler this ©!d Latin, as to have wonn that Vidnrv j and therefore lie leave Victory the M. Aure Urn hit Triumph 14.2 TheVoyagi the words to Fetrus Ciacomtis a flegmatick Spaniard , to comment upon. Yet I learnt out of this left- handed Latin , this obfervation, thaHhe brave Remans of the high- eft times, cared mor-e to do well, than to (peak well > and that the Roman commonwealth was turn- ing towards her decline, when fine language was in vogue. g. Hard by this pillar ftand mounted two little quarterCannons: a poor Arcenal for the Roman Sena- tors now a dayes. 9. Then mounting up fome ten ftcps , I came into a little Court whofe walls are all encrufted over with four excellent pieces of Mar- eus Am dun his triumph cut in mar- ble. In one of them he triumpheth in his open chariot : in another he facriheeth : in another he givcth largefles to the People. In the fourth lie receiveth the prefents of the Romans. They are all fo well cut that you doubt whether it be the U.mperour, or the Sculptor that triumphs here. Indeed the Empe- rors Of-Jtalt 145 rors Chariot hath got new wheels of late , and his horfcs new fliooes and feet, elfe all is old. io. Then going up the flairs higher, I faw an old plate of brafs, Legts nailed up , in which the Roman Dec h em laws of the ten tables 3 were written: a good Lawes, but few. And I was glad to fee them yet kept: if that bee fo keep lawes, to keep them nailed fait to the Wall 1 1. Then entrin^; into the Cham- bers and great Hall , I faw the ftatues of Alexander Farnefe Duke of Parma : of M. Antonins Colonna the Popes General in the battle of Ltpantoviwd of Den John of Auftri* Genera'ijjim.). I faw upon the walls painted in frefc^ the rape of the Sablns , the duel of the itrqcm'mi Fratres-i three brothers againft three brothers, Horatii againit Curiaiii: Scevela holding his hand over the burning coales : Codes defending the bridge alona againft an army of men : Scipio, and Banibal with their feveral armies, fo rarely painted by Pietro Perugino,thnt the Rom in 1 144 The Voyasi Romans now are in love with Hani- bal.Theti the picture of the iirft Con- ful Brutus commanding the death of his own Son : that of the Tar- (julnii : that of the conquering of the Sabins &c all pieces as bold as the very actions they reprefent. Here alfo in the other Chambers, Ifaw fome fine ftatucs, as that of Cuius Marius '■> that of Hercules in brafs being but yet a lad > That of Junius Brutus in brafs i the heads in marble of Viogtnes , flats , Sscrates: the Statues ofCicers, Virgil, xndFlatoi the brafen ftatue of the Woolf that gave fuck to Romulus and Remus. But the ; beft ftatue here, is that of the young man picking a thorn out of his foot. Its onely of brafs , but worth its weight in gold. Theftory of it is this. A young foot poft bringing letters of lingular importance unto the Senate, and pricking his foot as he ran, would not ftay to pick out the thorne ■■> but haftening to Rome with all fpeed, delivered his letters in full Senate prodigioufly Coon , as it appeared by their dates. But then clapping himfclf OfItalt 145 himfelfdown upon the ground be- fore them all , he began to pick out the thorn, in the poiture you fee him here. The Senate feing the halt he had made , and the pain he had endured , decreed prefently that his ftatue in that pofture, mould be erected in the Capitol. Thus the- old Romans not having then recompences enough for well deferving men, or elfe not willing to recompence them otherwife, perfwaded men,that no recompence was like to that of a ftatue in the Capitol, or to walk up and down the ftreets with a crown of Lawtl, or Oaks leaves upon their heads. Poor fooJes ! Was a crown of leaves fuch an honour, when even bawdy honfes and privits, Saith Ttr- tul&mi were crowned too ? Or was IirfM ^ # it fuch a folid honour tohave a Itatue Cete „^ in the Capitol, when getfe , and mMU woo'fes were honoured fo too ? But quod r arum ^ charum ejh And as Alex- ander the Great hearing that the Se "' e c * } L Cariathians would make him a Ci- *~ ^ tizen oi their town, fcorntd it at iirlt : but after he had been aflured G g that Jk* Call. 146 TheVoyagi that they never offered that honour to any man but to Hercules and him, he was well pleated with that offer : fo the rarity of haviuga fla- tue in the Capitol being an honour granted to few, and thofe wc 1 de- serving men, made men think it the higheft of recompences. Among thofe tew, were Scipio, for having overcome Antioehus : JEmilius Lepidus for having, while he was but yet a boy, freed a Roman citizen in a battle : Metcltu for faving the Palladium out of the burning Temple of Vefta : Cornelia for having turnifhed corn to the people in a dearth, out of her own moneys - , and fome few others. Having thus feen the Capitol, I went into the Noble Church of Ara Cceli which isjoyning to the Capitol upon the fame hill , and built in the fame place where an- ciently flood the Temple of Jupiter Capitciinus ,Or Jupiter Ferarius.lictt it was the Sibjlle (hewed unto Au- £uj1us Ctfar, at the birth of our Saviour, that a greater Lord than he was born •, whereupon Avguf- tus C Italy 145? nts forbad, that any man mould call him Lord from that time for- ward. In this Church is the Tomb of % Helen Mother of Confiantm the Great. ihehfout Defending from hence by the^^™ 1 marble ltaires^ which arc a hundred in all, and all fo large, that twelve men in a breaft may go up at once, I came to the Jefuits Church and houfe called the CajaProfeJfa^ The Church is neat and capacious, the Chappels well painted, and th«  ornaments in the Veftery Very rich. Under the Altar where S. Igna- tius his pidture is, lyes the body of that Saint,Founder of the Order of the lefuits. Near the high Altar on the Gofpel fide is the Tomb of Cardinal Bellarmin. In the houfe of thefe Fathers I fa w the Chamber of S. Ignatius, now turned into a Chappehand a fair Library. PafEng from hence, 1 lteptintoa s.Marlk Pallace of S. M>^, belonging to the p a U*M. ftate of Venice^ and the lodging place alvyayes of the Venetian Emhajfadors refusing in the Court of K&me* This pallace, as alfo that Gg 3 of 14 s The Voyagi of the CanceVaria* and that of Far* xefe, are faid to have been built oftheftones that were taken from the great Amphitheater j and yet a great part of it' remaines mil ) and I I believe, as much as would make three more fuch pallaccs. From S. Marks Pallacc I went towards the Mount Ghi'mnal now called Monte CavaUoi and as I went, pafild through that part of the town which anciently was called Forum Iraj/wi, and there favv that which Trajan himfclf never faW, to wit, < the wonderfull pillar of white marble creeled there to Trapn, and therefore called Cdomui frjjana but ■Sohntta never leen by him : for he dyed in frajantf, forrain expeditions returning from Perfia without ever feeing it. This pillar is made of four and twenty great ftones of marble, in which are. carved trie exploits of Irjj.m, cfpecially in his' W3rrcs againft the Jpacians. Its a. hundred twenty eight toot high, without its Ymt which is twelve foot high. Within it there are a hundred ( tourfcore and five fiairs, which deliver you up to the j top' Of Italy 1491 top of ir, and there arc forty Iiltief Avinciows which let in light enough for you to go up. On the top of all this pillar were anciently bury- ed the allies of Traj'in the Empe- rour: but Sixtttf Qttinttes caufed, in p-lace ; of th'em, the ftatue in brafs gilt- ef S- Peter to be fet up here. Heretofore all the bafisSof it was buryed under ground in the mines., ^ but now they hive digged about it£c clearecHt i yet by this we may fee how much the ftreets of .Roweare . higher than they were, Rome now being built upon the ruines of Rome. From hence going up the hill I came to the Pallace and garden of Mdobrandini. The hpufe is but f little, yet neatly furnilhed with ^ P J' ftatues and pictures. Some whereof Aid { r a* are thefe : An old picture made dint. in the time of the Pagans reprefent- ing a marriage after the old Romans faibion. I take this to be the an- €tenteft picture in -Rome-, and the raT-ify of it is fo great, that Caualkr Pezzo (a brave Genlle'ftnn and a- G g 3 great i5# ThiVotasi great Virimfo ) got leave to copy k out, and this copy is to be feen in the houfe of his brother, among other rare curiofitics, near S. An- ita della Valle. Next after this, I was fhown in the forcfaid pallacc , the true pi&ure of Martin Luther : a rare S Sebaft'unin the Ghappel, of Raphaels hand : Upon the itairs a ftatuc of a man hanging by the hanals, with great ftones at his feet weighing him down : a torment much ufed by the heathens, and. pra&ifed by them upon Chriftians i with a world of other pictures and ftatuesin the chambers. Prom hence I went to Cardinal Mazzarims Pallace, and there law in the garden the famous picture Ma.zz<$- of the Aurora made by GuidoRheni
    • ». famous over all Rome. In the court
of this pallace 1 faw the beft rid- ing Matters of Rome teach young Gentlemen to ride the great horfe : but I found them here far fhort of the mafters in France^ both for good horfes, and good fchoUars, and graceful riding. In the fame Court in Thtpal- Ute of Of Italy i 51 in the furnmer evenings,they play ar ballon, a manly exercife much ufed in Italy, and far more gentile than our rude football fport. Neer to this pallace (land the & e Pcp» Popes fhbles where I faw all the ft»His, Genets that had been prefented to the Pope, fincehis creation, by the King of Spain for the Kingdom 'of Naples -. every year one, with a purfe of gold. The other horfes here were only coach horfes i for when the Pope goes any whither abroad upon publkk ceremony, the Cardinals, and Prelates upon Mules, and the n©ble men of Rome upon their own horfeSj wait upon him : and whea he goes out of town his own horfe- guards attend him. From hence I was prefently in the q^^ Tiazza of MmecaVJllo , where I faw the two famous horfes in marble, with each one a man hold'- ing him, they were fent to Nero for a prefentby Tiridstes King of Arme- nia. In the Pedeftal of thefe ftatues are written under the one of them Opt Fbidi<e : under the other,0/w G g 4 Vraxitelk^ 7%e Popes $w*mtr j-52 T Hi Voyage Vraxitelis. Its faid that thefe twe horfcs and men were made by thefc two ancient Sculptors of Greece to rtprefent Bxccfbilus and Alexan- der the great. However thefe horfes give name to this hill, and whereas it was formerly called Mom §hiiri- •nalis\ its now called Montccavallo. Upon this hill flood anciently the Ibtrmt Conftanuniana j or baths of Conftantin the great , of which there are i.eeh fome remnants in the garden of QoUnna which lies behind the wall of this Piazza- Over againft the forefaid horfes ftands the Popes pallace where he ordinarily lives in Summer. The houfe is a noble -ftru<fture, and the rooms ftately : but I faw nothing rare in them but thcmfelves. The garden of this houfe is curious for tine walks, ftore of fountains, and the cool Crotta under great fliady trees, where there are fine water- works, &c an organ playing without any fingers to touch it. Over againft the backdoor of this garden iraads the novitiate of the Jefuits, with the neat new Church dc fine gardens. Returning Of Italy- 15-3. Returning from hence, I ilept into the Church of S. Sy!vejler ovQt^-Sflvef againit the pallace of Mazzarini te * s belonging to the lheatins\ and there (aw the tomb of Cardinal Benti- vaglia the modern Livy of Italy. The garden here tiandingin a fair prof- peel:, is very pleafant and delight- fo me. Dcfcending from hence by a pi I- St A . A „ . vate ftreet , I went to S. Agatkmhus Church hi the Saburra near the foot cbuub. . a£ the Quirinal hill. The body of S* Agatha lies under the altar. Be- fore, the' door ot this Church, are. fome ancient itatuesof little boye> in the habit of a Pretext a, a habic belonging to noblemens children. From hence paffing by the Churh of Madonna del Mmte ( a Church of great devotion) I went up the hill to S. fairs ad vincula '•> where S.Peters I faw the famous Itatue of Mofe $.<*<* v ' nc **- fitting. Its of white marble and /"•■ adorning the tomb of Julius Secun- dus. Its enough to tell you, that it. was made by Michael Aagelo , and admired by all Sculptors. Heres wear unto the door of the Church, Sg 5 a*) linoitk- Heats sdss. %be piHar at which 0ur a- ■viow ions 154 Thi Voyage an altar with the ftatue of 5. Sebaf- thHyit the eroding ®f which, the plague ceafed in Rome, faith Baro- nous. In thefacrifty of this Church I faw the chains in which S* Peter wasfettered in prifon > and which make this Church be called S. Peter tidvincula. £. Martim inMonte follows the next, and is a neat Church now. In a cave below there were two Councils held by S. Silvefter in the primitive times of perfecution , as the words upon the wall as you de«  fcend into the cave, and Baroniuf^ tdtirie.Itsfaidthatin this place was exercifed the rirlt publick profeffion of Chilian religion. Then the Church of S. Praxedes, where I faw the pillar at which our Saviour was whipped. Its a low round pillar of fpeckled marble. It ftanck within a little grate of iron, The old writing over the door of that Chappel- tells you that it was* brought to- %ome from Hiemfalem four hundred years ago by a Car- dinal Colonm, In the midft of the Church Of Italy 15^ Church is a Well ( now covered ) where S. Praxedes hid the relicks and bodies of Martyrs^ In an other Chappel I (aw the picture of the defcent of our Saviour from the Crofs, made by Guid» In the Bel- conies above in the pillars, I faw,by fpecial favour, many curious relicks. From hence I went to S. Mary Mtiors Church, fo called becaule Sam* - it is the.greatett of all the Churches Maria of our Lady mRome. Its built upon ^21'"* the Monu Efquilino, and upon the place which was covered miracu- lously with fnow upon the V of An* ' / gnjh The hiftoiy of it is known by thefolemn feafi in the Kalendar , called SanZia Maria adNives, and ; it is expreiTed in the old Mofaick . pictures which are fet here in the wall over the pillars that bear up. > the roof. The moft remarkable . things I faw here, were thefe. 1. The tomb of the founder of * this Church, Tatritiuj, whofebody -y lies in a tomb of Porphyry near the great door. 2. The noble gilt roof, er fcf- > jt$6 Thi Voyage fita, which was gilt with the firft. gold that came out of the Indies in Alexander the VI time , whofe trms axe fet up in this rook 3. The Mofaick pictures which suu along this Church containing the hiftoryoftheoldand new Te£ lament, and the hiftory of the build- ing of this Church. 4. The high altar under which repofeth the body of S. Matthias the Apoftle, whofe head is expofcd upon the altar in a chryftal upon his day. 5. The tomb of an EmbafTidor of Congo to pauluiV.. Its over a- againftthe ftatue in brafs of Vaulus V. near the Saciifty. 6. The little back Court there with the Eccho in the well, which anfwers you indeid^but like a fharp fcold, too quick and fhort. 2*» 7. The rare Chappel otSixws V. aatpi*f m2i fc by VotmmcQ Fontana, which jcoft (even hundred thoufand 'crowns. The molt famous actions of Sixtus £nixtus , and otFitis Qxin- tus, who macfe Sixtus Cardinal are carved in white" marble round about the Of Italy 157 the Chappel. S. Hieromes allies arc buried here in a tide Altar on the S. Hiero~ mes t»mk left hand : and where fliould we look for S. H'urome, but near gu&t%* holy Saviours crib? which is here enchafed Crib of in chryftal in a low chappel under our ^ avi " the high altar of this Chappel. Its "" fhewn publicity upan Cnriftmafs day. The Tabernacle of brals born up by four Angels of brafs with one hand, and holding each one a torch in the other hand, is moll irately, rhe'ebap- 8. O.veragainit this Chappe!,ftands ptltf the Chappel of Pauliti V.much \u^ Fau!tiir the other in all things, except that the chief altar ftands not in the middle, but at the end of it. This Altar is a very neat Contrivance, and of as rich materials, r our gaat Pillars of Jafper polifhed, adnncd with Capitels and bafes of brafs gilt, hold up the back of this altar which is all of Lij-U L-zuli, or . Oriental blew aznle ftonc \ in. the midftof which is a lie. le Micbio in the wall, where the pidture of our A M wrr Bltffcd Lady with our. Saviour m°lj urB ' her arms, made by. &. Uk&, is m 'J,i 7 conferved and ken, This N'tchio s. Luke. 158 The* Voyage is f unrounded with a row of rich pretious ftones of great value fet thick about it > and fhut up with two little halfdoors, of two whole Agates 3 each of them two foot long, and a foot large. Theodoras Lefior an ancient author makes mention of this pi&ure , and faith , Pttl- chert* , Ended* Imjginem Matrix Chrifti) cuaru Lucas Apoftolus Pin- xerat, Rierejolymu mi fu : That is: Eudocii fent unto Tulckeria from Hierttfakm the pidtureof the mother rnitioeoU of Chrift which Luke the Apoftle hSunec had painted.The picture it felf is fbold, and placed fo high, that its hard to perceive the lineaments of the face , unlefs you fee it with a wax taper at the end of a long pole, as I did. In fine, this was the picture which S.Gregory the great a thoufand years ago , carried in procefiion upon Eafter day, when he faw over the Moks Adrian'^ an An- gel (heathing his fword in fign of the ceafing of the plague. The roof or little Cupola of this Chap- pel is painted by the hand oi Gui- de JRJjtm of 'Bologna, The fide walls thtoiov Le&or in rmv. Of Italy. i^ &f this Chappel are of white mar- ble cut in mezzo rilimo , and con- taining the chief a&ions of C/#- mtnt the VIII, and V aulas V, whofe ftatues are alfo here in white marble. £. Without-the Church (land two great Pillars at each end of it : the one an Egyptian Guglia. cut with Hieroglyphs i the other a Roman Pillar taken out of the mines of the Temple of peace which is of a prodig'ous height, with the" ftatue ot ©ur Saviour and our Lady upon it in brafs guilt. From S; Mary Mahrs I went to the Church of S. Vita and Mo- ss.vita defto. Its built near the mines of^^°" the Triumphal ktc\\oi Caliems t)\t ^ e °^ rc ^ Emperor. The great keys that arc 6 f Galit? nailed to the top of that forcfaid nnm. Arch, were the Keys of the City Tnfcxlttm^now called FreJ'cate ) and hung up here in memory of a vic- tory won. over, that Town, under ; Honorim the v s almoft five hun- dred years ago. From hence I went to the Church s. k*/«^ «f S. Emetic built upon the ruines w». •f v6o The Voyage of the 'Xbermx ef the Emperor Gor* dianoy and hispallace, whofe eourt had fifty pillars on every iade.Near unto this Church were found the Trophies of Mariw, which I fpoke of above in the Capitol. Continuing on my way, I came at Croce in ^ a ^ t0 Santa Croce in Jcruj'alem. Its fiierufa- oneoit the feven Churches of Rome, k»w. and built by the Emperor Conftantin the great. It Hands near the Walls of the Town in the end of the See Baro- mount Cdluts. Hard by it appear tutu m fome prints of the Temple of Venus '", u " and Cupid y which the faid Empe- ror ruined, to build a Church in the place of them in honour of t he holy Crofs, and fo repair the injury which the Inhdels had'doneto the Holy Crofs in Hierufa)em, by placing the (tatue of Venus upon mount Calvary, and ftriving to blot out the name of Mm Ca : vme , and bring in that of MontVem.rie. This Church is called Santa Croce in Hierufjiern, becaufe of the earth of Mwnt Calvarie , which was brought from Hierufalem and laid here, OfI-Talt t4l here. The things I obfervedhere, werethefe. / i. The painting in the Tribune or roof of the quire, containing the hiitory of the exaltation of the holy Crojs. It looks like the painting of Fietrs Pemgino, or fome of his fchollars s and it was thought fine work, before Raphael raifcd paint- ing to a greater height. 2. The Chappel below where the holy earth fent by S. Helen from Hierufahm , to her ion Conftantin the Emperor, was put. t. The relieks in the Sacrifty above, to wit, three pieces of the Holy Crofs => one of the nails of the Crofs of our Saviour i two thorns cf the holy Crown of thorns ; si great piece of the title of the holy Crofs,a finger of S.Thomai the ApoP*** tie - , and one of the thirty pieces of money for which our Saviour was fold. Not far from hence ftands the Church of.W<* BiHana. This^ B '^ Church Hands ia the place called anciently S. Lau- rence bis Cbnnh* 162 The VotAgi anciently Vrfa Pileata, becaufe of the ftatue of a Bear with a hat on, which fiood there. This place is alfo famous for the Church yards fake, or Cjemefer'wm^ called, inter etnas /rfzwur.Hereis Tome good pain- ting' in this Church, of Campelli , and Fietro Cmonefe, The ftatue of the Saint is of Bcnrinis hand. « From hence I found a way that led me to the gate of S- Laurence , through which I went to the church of that Saint called San Lorenz* fursri delle muta by reafon of divers others built ia honour or that Saint within the walls. This Church was built by Confiantin too, & enriched by him with many pretests and or- naments. It was built upon the Qxmeterinm Sand* Ciriac£, where that holy woman ufed to bury the bodies of the Holy martyrs. It fhnds in the Via TihuHwa, and is one of the feven Churches of Rome* and one of the five Pairurcbal Churches , and therefore is not titular of any Cardinal. The things that I faw here, wercthefe. Of It alt \6% i. The Tomb of S. Lanrmee ,
  • nder the high altar.
2. Behind the High altar the flone upon which the gridiron flood, upon which S.Lawtnee was broiled. Its covered with a great glafs through which you fee it. 5. In the roof of this Church I found thefe words* cut in great Let- ters of wood S Quam clarificzia eft Hierofolyma Stephano , tarn ihtftrit fatta eft Roma Lanrentio^ taken out of S. Leo in his fermon upon the feaft of 5. Laurence. 4. The Gatacombcs under this Churchy where many Saints bodies were buried anciently. Returning again into the town § £«*«- I ftept into S. Antonles Church and «;*. Hofpital, near to g. MaryMal»rss before which Church ftands a pillar with a crofs upon it, erected here upon the converfion of Henry the IV. of France. Failing behind S. Mary Maiors , y.p a ^^ I went to Santa Pudentianaf Church tianx* ftanding in the ancient ftreet called Vitus Patricim, This Church was built upon the place where the houfe 164 The Votage of Pudensa. Senator and father of S. c Tudentianj>\\vc&. And here it WiSf that S. Teter^ at his firit coming to S.ironim R n mt, lodged, having converted? aian.^ this Vudens and his two daughters Pudenthna and Praxedes* Here I faw thefc things. i. The dry .well into which S. Vudentiana put mmy Relicks of Martyrs to conferve them.i looked into it with a hghted taper/let down in a ft ring i and -few many curious relicks desked up in the Gde ,of the wall. 2. The wooden altar upon which S- Peter hid -,-mate at: his being here. 3. The two marble ftatues of our Saviour and S-, Peter. They are both excellently wcllciit,-and- perchance by rare Qlivieri. 4. The neat Chappel of thcCa'e- tani, with the back oi the altar in' white marble curioufly cut by Qli- vieri in a bajfo rilitub , reprefenting the adoration of the A/agi. Near the high altar, is the pre-: ture of the forementioned Senator tudens-t in his Senators robes. From 0? It A LT 16$ From hence I went to S. Lorenzo mPanifferna, Here it was that S.S.Lan- Laurence was broylcd upon the r ' nz ° t iu gridiron by the command or the Jt Emperor Peci/tf whofepallace flood where this Church now ftands.Upon the wall of this Church is painted the martyrdom of S. Laurence in Frefco. Here lye buried the bodies ot S, Bridgit a Holy Virgin cf $cot- Un&\ and of the Cardinal Sirletw. Going from hence by a little.un- freqtKiited ftreet running under the foot of MontecavaU^ I came to the Church of S. Vitalis which ftands St vital* joined to the garden of the Jefuits Nmitiaf. Its faid that the Temple of Gjhiirinus ,or Romulus Rood hereand that it was here that Proculus fwore he faw Romulus after his death,who bid him go tell the Romans, that he g would be adored by them under the name of ^ulrir.us : when indeed it was thought that the Senators had torn him in pieces in the Senate See P/k- houfe, and carried away under their tarc!}% gowns every one a piece of himyand finding the people to mutter much at font aw, isut* M»ritt delta Vit, 166 TheVotagi at his not appearing, had got this Troculus to depofe as above •, and (o quieted the people, who are as eafily pacified again with a vain tale, as itirred up with a fond ru- mour. From henec I went to the Q^atr» Fontane, Winch itand at the head of four ftreets wnich meet here. Theft fouutains itfuc out from four /fatues wf.ich lie here in cumbent polturcs i and they were nude here by Lepidns. Then following that fair ftreer, I went to Santa Maria d«Ha Vittoria' fo called from the victory won in the battle of Prague. The flags and cornets taken in this battle are (et round about the Church. In one of the flags over the door, I found Crofs Keys, Cardinals Gaps, Miters and Priefts cornerd caps aJl turned topfy turvy, with this Angle motto, Extirpentor Here are very neat Chappels efptcially that on the left hand, where is feen the reprefen- tation of S. 7enfa wounded by a Sirtphia* Its an admirable piece of Or Italy \6j ©f 'Bernini. In the convent you fee painted in a Sala , the battle of frague , and in the Sacrifty a (epul- cher of our Saviour all of Ivory ex- traordinarily well wrought. Before the door of the foreiaid Church, fhnds the great fountain, called Font ana ¥>li e , where the Aquedud of Sixtus H*>wus ( who before his affumption to Ecclefiafti- cal dignities, was called in his Mo- naftery Fr a Felice ) disburdened it felf into a gre.it Hone bafin , and from thence is carried into divers parts of the town. From hence I went to the garden of MontaltO) which is hard by. This is one of the beft gardens \nrf*g** m Rome y and therefore delerves well- ^J-J^ to be feen. At your entrance into it, you fee a round table of a blewifa ftone , upon which the arms of the houfc of Mmtaltozxc engraven, at which while you gaze curioufly and near at hand, the girdiner, by preffing his foot upon a low iron pump under the table preifeth out water on all fides of that round tak>le, and wel- comed* i6o* The Voyage cometh the ftrangers that come f fee his garden. Then mounting into the little Pal- lace near the door, I faw divers good pictures & tlatues,of the houfc of Montalto, and others. There alfo I faw a wooden organ, pipes 8c all, and yet of no ungrateful found. There alfo I faw the picture oWa-vid killing Goliath'. It turns upon a frame, & (hews you both the fore- fide of thofe combatants, and their backfides too , which other pictures do not. Here are curious Urns; the true bttjlo oiSixtut V.a tabernacle of rich (tones. There is a picture in (tones of feveral colours which held one way, reprtfents nothing but a hunch of herbs h but- held up an other waVjit reprefents a mans bed deface. In fine here ism this little pallace,a neat Library in a cool room, over the door of which 3 on the inlide, are written thefe words Medicitia ani- mi-i as if Libraries were nothing but phyGck gardens for the mind. Defcending again into the garden I (aw (lore of wetting fports, and waterworks, moft curioully contri- ved'. OrlTALT ity vcd ; and moft ftately walks. From hence he went to the Carthufians , Church which is hard by. This Church and Monaftery arc built up- on the ruines of the baths of Dio-^y . ektian. For this cruel Emperor with c fDiorit~ his atfTociate Maximta*, condemned »*>», forty thoufand Chriftians to work in this building for the fpace of 15 years together, and afterwards condemned many thoufands of them to death for their religion » Thus men work for Tyrants. But fuch is the wonderful providence of God.Churches of Chriftians now ftand where Chriftians were con- demned to death and torments. The blood of thefe martyrs was but the feed of Chriftians and when Diocle- tian condemned Chriftians to work here, mcthinks he did but bid them go lay the foundation of a monafte- ry tor Carthufians , and of a Church for the worfliip of that Godhefo much perfecuted. Having feen this Church and mo- **'?•??, "aiteryj went to fee the Popes gra^"""'" n aricS } vaft buildings two ftoiies high, amdalwaies full of wheat for H h tht -k 170 TheVoyagi prefent ufe of the whole City. A world of officers and overfeers be- long to thefe Granaries, and are alwaies turning over, and keeping the vaft heaps of wheat from fpoyl- ing and corrupting. By (ticking up eanesin the heaps of wheat, they can tell , fmelling at the ends of thefe canes,whether the wheat begin to moiften and corrupt, or no, and accordingly give order either to turn it, and airf it , or prefently to give it out to the bakers: Thefe Granaries were alfo built upon the - ruines of Viodotians baths. chunb of From thefe Granaries I went to s.Agms. the town gate not far off, called Forta ?ia, and from thence ftreight along for a good mile, to S. Agnefes Church. Under the high altar repofeththe body of that tender Vir- gin, who being as innocent as her name, fuffered martyrdom at thir- teen^ nd triumphed over the world before (he could know it. Clofc by ftands the Church of S. Conftantia an other holy primitive Virgin. Here I faw the famous Tomb, commenly called Bacchus his Of Italt 171 his tomb, but faily, feeing it was the tomb of S. Conttantia. It? a vaftarea, cr cheft of one Porphyry ftone, above half a foot thick, and fix foot long, Its all cut on the outfide with sl hajfo riliem in a moft admirable manner. From hence crofling over the fields, Bm .^f tS I went to Burg-befit Villi and gar- y,u 0m den, which are a little half mile from the Town. This is the great- eft ViUa that's about Rome. For here you have itore of walks, both open and clofc, rifli ponds, vatt cages for birds, thickets of trees, itore of foun- tains^ park of deer,a world of fruit trees, ftatues of all fizes, banquetting phces.Grottat, wetting fports, and a iiately pallace adorned with lb ma- ny rare ftatues & pictures, that their names make a book in oUavo^ which I refer you to. As for the pallace it felf its compaffed on both fides by a fair demicircle of ftatues, which ftand before the two doors, like old Fenates and Lara. The wall of the houfeisovercruftedwith a world of AnticaUie^ or ©Id marble pieces of antiquity: as thatof Curtius fpurring Hh 2 into 172 Th* Voyage into the Vorago : that ©f fLuropa hurryed away by Jupiter become a bull,with a world offuchlike fables. Entring into thehoufe I faw divers rooms full of.curiofities. In the great hall ftands the ftatue of Diana in Oriental alabatter , which was once a Deity adored by Auguftus Ctfar. Here alfo hang two great pi&ures, the one reprefenting a Cavalcata when the Pope goeth abroad in ceremony j the other a Cavakata -when the great Turk goeth abroad in pomp. 2. In an other room ftands the ftatue of one of the famous gladia- tors ancientiy, who fought alone a- gainft twenty others, and being wounded to death feems to threaten with his looks all his beholders. Its terribly well made. 3. In one of the chambers above, is the head in Frofile of Alexander the great cut in marble* 4. In an other room below I faw the ftatue of Seneca bleeding to death. Its of a black (lone like Jeat, than which nothing can be blacker but the crimes otNero the Idagiftri- e ide, Of iTALr J7'5 tide, who put this rare maHhis ma- fler to death. 5. The (Utile alfo of Vaphne^ni Apollo in alabafter; Apolk running after Daphne, and (he ftiffening into a tree being overtaken : her fingers (hooting into branches, and her toes into roots, are admirably well done. It muft be Berninis work. 6. The ftatue alfo of MneM car* lying his old father Anchifis upon his back out of burning 'troy* The young man is brawny and ftrongjthc old man is made lean and weak : as alfo the young man (hews a great deal of tender arfe&ion towards his father, and the father as much fear in his looks. 7. The ftatue alfo of David flings ing at Goliath. He frowns fo terri- bly as he flings , that you would fwear he intends to fright him with his looks, and then kill him with his lling. The fe two laft ftatues are alfo of the hand of Cavalier Bernini* 8. In an other chamber above I faw the great chair which loclvth fait any man that fitteth down Hh £. ia*
Ma Aon- tin del P opuh. 174 Th E V OT-AGI in it. It's Said to be a chair of re- venge, or a trap-chair for an enemy: but me thinks it would be a fine chair for a reftlefs fiudent > or a gofllping wife. I faw here alfo fome toycs for young men » as the clock which being wound up playeth a tuneable dance, and little men and women of iron painted handlomely, dance in a ring to that tune by vertue of the wheels. The fools paradife repre- senting fiiit a fine green garden of flowers, then a paliace, and laftly a neat Library, is made alfo to t ecre- ate children. Returning from this Villa by the back door which leadeth to the Porta del Pepulo , I ftept into the Church of Madonna del Popn- lo. This Church hath been much beautified of late by Pope Alexander the VII, becaufeof fome of his ancestors buried here. Here I faw the famous itatue of Jonas made by the command of Raphael Vrbin, who fhewed thefculptors of his time how perfectly he poffeffed the OfItal? 175 theory offculpture, if he would but have dirtyed his fingers with that dirty art. In a Chappel near the Gofpel fide of the High Altar, I faw a good picture of the hand of Gn'id) %Joenu Where now the highAkarrtands 3 itood anciently the tomb of Nero. Going on from hence on the left hand, towards the Piazzadi Spig-
  1. <*, I firft patted by the great Gugli<*> X
or Egyptian pyramid carved all over with Hieroglyphs. Its looked upon by three Greets, and fcen afar off. Thenpaffing a little further, I came to the GreekChurch and Col ledge, 2*« Gm\ where upon certain daies , I faw c<? ^£'«  their ceremonies,and heard the mafs fung in Greek after the Greek man- , ner. Thefe Grecians are in union with the Roman Church and have a Seminary of young ftudents of their country maintained by the Pope to retu ntj their country in lT1 f' on ' . r IbeVi* Mounting from hence on the left eftfo hand to the top of the hill by the*"** coach way, I went into the Villa Dtt}( ? Hh 4 of i Jj6 T RR Voyage of the great Duke, where I faw the neat garden with fountains, two or three bsge veflels of marble , and ftore of Itatues both in the pallace, and in the long gallery. That of the two gladiators wreftling : that of the clown whetting his fithe and hearing the cenfpirators of Catalim (peaking of their confpiracy, which he difcovered, is one of the beft pieces of fculpture in Rems. That of Cupid and Venus are admirable. From the chamber window of this pallace you have a perfect fight of Rome under you. In the garden there is a little Guglia^ with many other curiofities. Going out from this garden by the back door, I crofled over the ftreet, .and was prefently at the back door ViUa Lu- alfoof the Villa L*^w//?4-,belonging Jovifia. to the Prince Ludovifio. This VilU ftands in excellent air being feat" ed high. There are two houfes in this garden and both furnilhed with "exqaifite rarities. That which (Unds near this backdore afforded me theft, curiofities A rare pi&ur/e of bo4 0f Italy lyy of the ^Virgin* Af.*ry made by 'Guieh Rbe*i.\ts the belt pi&ure of her that ever I faw. A rich Cabinet with the picture of Pope Gregory the XV in nCatneo, and other rich (tones adorning it. A neat little clofet full of divers rarities •, as a true Hydras skin with feven necks : a petrified fungus : the true pidure of Francis the rirft or F/v»»«>with that alfoof his Phyfician, both made by Lau- renzo Vinci, and efteemed rare pieces, with many other little cu- rioficies. In an other room, the heads in white marble, of Gregoey the XV, and his nephew Cardinal Ludovifio. A chamber full of curious glafTes. Upon the flairs a little Cupid i'& load en with. a quiver of arrows, that an other little Cupid is forced to hold them up behind him. But that which is the moft rare thing in this Villa,- or perchance in any in Kcme , is the incomparable bedftead which is feen in one of the. chambers of this p alia ce. Its all of pretious (tones and valued at a hundred thoufand erowns.The four beeffofts are all of Hh 5, Oriental. lyd Tut Voyage Oriental poliftied Jafper. The reft of it,is of other rich ftones : but the head of it exceeds far the reft for riches and art, efpecially the midft of it, where the arms of the family of Lttdwifio are curioully fet in rich /tones of fevera 1 colours according to the colours of the coat of arms. Here you have bunches of grapes , fome redjfome white, but all of rich Jftones. Here are vaft Ametbyjhj one fquare,an other round in pyramidal form. Here Phaeton in his Chariot in a Cameo-, with the wheels of his Chariot of pretious /tones i and a world of fuch rich work, which makes this bedftead the nonplus of art and magniricencf.I do not know for all thal,why beds fhould be made of ftones though pretious ones. If it be for the Princefs of this houfe to be brought to bed in, it portends unto her a hard labour : if to lodge in it the everlafting fame of the greatnefs of this family it is a vain labour i feeing pretious ftones willmoulter away ift tirrje, as other ftones do, €)mn\» mort.ilia mortalitati damnais, lot Of Italy \jm For my parf,thebeftufe I know for it,is, to lay the petrified man in, whom we (nail find prefently in the other pallace of this Villa : jbeds of itone are fitted for men of ftone. Hard by this houfe, ftand the fountains and waterworks, which with their fhady trees, correct t\\t hotteit beams of the Italian Sun, and afford unto the owner of this ViVa^ rain and clouds of his own at will , even in June and July. From hence croffing through the *? e garden, I went to 'the other houfe fe£ that ftandsin it, where I was (hewn in the feveral chambers many cu- rious things : as, two brave old gla- diators in ftone fitting down : four ore pieces of Guido Rbeni, to wit a S. Francis, a Lttcretia, a Juditb,iiid a converfion of S. Paul : Divers cu- rious pi&ures of the hand of Titiany Raphael ., Michel Avgdo , Carracc'fo and others : a rare head in marble of Scipio Affrkanus'. the head of Seneca in bujio of great value. Cicero's head alfo in buj\o : fome rich tables of inlaid ftones; the lilttle boysin Ivory greater tBff Tki.V^otagi greater than I thought it poffible for Ivory to have furnimed : two rare Apollotin white marble •> the oracle of Porphyry which fpoke once i theftatue of an old gladiator dying of his wounds in a great fquarc hox lined with velvet. I faw the body of a petrified maryhat is, a man tun> A'Pitri- ed into ftone. One piece of the leg fyndmaH.^ broken to affure an embaiTadour doubting of the verity of the thing) {hewed me plainly both the bone and the (tone crufted over it. The head and the other parts lye jumbled wp together in the box. If you ask me, why they do not put this body ante feme tomb to bury ir, I anfwer you, that it needs no other tomb than this cruft of ftone. Indeed I never faw a body fo neatly en tombed as this : you would fwear that this tomb is a pure Jujiaucor^s rathe* than a tomb : it tits as clofe as if a Taylor had made if. . And (hat you may not think \t an impoffrble thing
  • "!?'!" that men (hould be thus pet ryfied, I
in Tab, _ , , , rt ,- r • 1 Geogratb ronft mtod you what.0/*e/w iaitn. SLvjji* -that upon the mountains fit.uated in the Of Italy iti the Weftern parts of Tartary are feen figures of men, cammels, fheep and other heaits, which by an admi- rable mctamorphofify were changed into itones about three hundred Arifi»t a yeares ago. And AtijhtU himfclf*-^'*' (peaks of mea petrifyed in the hoi- f, *°* lovr cave of a mountain near Perga- mus. In an other chamber ftands a ; great clock of brafs guilt, as tall as a ■«  maniSc it ftands indeedjfor I think it hath not gone fince it went out of Germany to Rome.They tell us pietty things that this clock did, when it was yongijbut now it cannot fomuch ■ as ttir its hand : thus Time ea- rners at lafi, its ownHeraUs > and breaketh the clocks by which we know her. In an other, chamber of this houfe I faw a new flatue in pure white marble, of the rapt of Profet- pina : its ofthe hand of Bernini. In . an other room I faw the rare (Utue of C$'m Mmus killing, himftlf with his dagger, upon fight of his dead daughter who had killed her felf for fear offalling.into.the hands ofaluftfull Empaour* Defending from, , Ttht Capu .fins. 182 The Voyage from hence into a long low Gallery of ftatues I found here forne very good ones, as that of Junius Brutus^ of Nero, of Vomitian Sec But the beft thing I faw .there was the head oWlympiat, (mother of Alexander the great) in a bajforilievj^ and in a frame. Going out of this Villa by the great door behind the Caputins^ I itept into the Church of the faid Capucins, & faw there in the fecond Chappel on the left hand, the tomb of Santo Felice^ Lay brother of this Order, famous all Kcweover for his known fan&ity. Here lyes alfo buryed Cardinal Antonio Barberino brother to Pope Urban the VIII , otherwife called Cardinal Sanf Onofrio- who having been long a Capncin^ was made Cardinal by his brothers expreffe command » and t>eing Cardinal lived RWlaGapHcw in the efteem of all that knew him. His humility would not fo much as let his name befet upon his tomb- ftonc j butinfteadof it, and his other 'titles, I found ©ncly thefe words, bit Faitctzw Of Italy. j§| hie jacet umbra, cinis-, nihil. This Cardinal, and Cardinal Mazat made by Clemtit the VIII, are all the Cardinals that theCapmins Or- der hath had. Over againft the Cafucim ftaids *■«», the Pallace of the family otBarberwi poiTefTed now by the Prince of ?<*- kftrina of that family. This is one of the nobleft Pallaces in Rome, for its ftately fituation upon a hills fidetfor the two neat ftaircafcsi the noble painting in the roof of the great hall by Pietro di Cartona j the world of ftatuesand pictures in the Gallery \ the rare fequens of chambers one going into an other fthe double ap- partimenti, each Capable to lodge any king in ; and each rarely furniuh- . cd •, in fine, for the Tare Library of Cardinal Francefco Barhrino. Defcending from hence towards the Minims o£ Trim: a di Monte, I ftept iwto a little Church of Spanifh AugujUns called Santo llkfmfo , SMt* which I cannot pafs by without/ '*/ * taking notice of, becaufe I think no feody elfe doth,it is fo little: yet hav- ing I The Voyage tht Itai ln & defcribed the greateft Church of chttnb Kome(S: Peters) fo exa&lyil cannot in Kome but fay fomething of the leait church in Rome : dwarfs are men as well as _^ Gyantsiand though this Churchmay ~ feem rather to be a map,ormodel of a Church, thana true Church, yet feeing it hath not onely all the /i- neaments , features^ and meen of a Church, but alfo all the noble parts of a Church, as High Altar, iide Chappels, Cupola* Quire &c. I fear not to call it a Church, though for bigntfs > it would not make the efTrinits From hence I went (freight on to di JfouttAhc Minims of Ix'inita di Mo»*e be- longing to France and 5. Franojs of Paulas Order. This Convent is.the heft feated of any in Kokand oneof thenobleft, being founded by- king Lixvis the XL of France* overlook- ing all K<ww«, and looked upon
eciproca!!y by the beft places in
Rome. In the Church I faw divers good pieces: as the Aflumptionof our Lady by Zuecari : the picture of the taking down of our Saviour from tiazto Op J T A LIT \%$ from the Crofs, by Raphael : the picture of our Saviours appearing to S. Mary Magdalen , by Julio Ro- mano Raphaels Scholar, and imitat- ing very much in this picture, Ra- phaels colour?. See in the dormitory of this Convent the curious per- fpe#iveof S. Francis of ?;/«/<*, and a rare funn dyaL ingenioufly con- trived. Dcfcending from hence into the disp*g»* Pia&z* di Spagna, I faw the foun- tain of the (hip, which in fummer nights they let over flow, to coal the Piazza and the neighbouring ftreets. In this Piazza ftands the Pallace of the Spdnifb Embajfador , belonging alwayes to him who is Ewbaffador here. In the end of the Piazza ftands the Colledg de Pre* paganda fide, of propagating the %%* iodt Faith, founded by Vrban the VIII 2J£ to maintain divers ftudents of the fid t , Eaftern cOnntryes,and even oi India and Ethiopia too, who having finilh- ed their ftudies in this Colledge, are fent back again to their fe vera 1 countries with great profit and ad- vantage to thofe poor InJidels who would. 1&6 The Voyage would fit full in the darknefs of infidelity, were it not for the Popes care and Charity. tomma f rom hence I (leered to the Pi- ' azza ot the Font ana rJc Trcvi-, and in my way, faw divers Itately pal- laces inhabited by Cardinals , be- caufe they Hand near the Foot of Montecavallo where thePope reiides. This Fountain of Treve is not yet finidied as to the ltmcture that was intended •■> but oneJy the water is Brought hither, and in that quan- tity, that it feems to make three little rivers,at the three mouths out afcjft.-ofwtoch'itgufheth. rouites From hence I went nearer unto CiBtdgi. the foot of the hill MontecavaVo, and ftept into the Colledge of the Maremtes 3 in whofe Church , I heard them finging Mafs in their own language, and after their own rites, as the Chriftians of Mount Libanus have immemorably ufed to do. Their language is Arabic^ and they have alwaycs kept them- felves free from bereftes V and in Union with the Romm church thefe 500 years. From Of Italy 187 From hence I went to the Church ^ of the SS. Apojhli built in honour^ ' of the twelve jpoftles by Conjiantin the Great, who in honour of thofe holy Apojlks, earryed out of the foundation twelve baskets of earth upon his own (houlders. In this Church lye buryed S. Philip and Ja- «ob two Apoflks. In the Piazza be- fore this Church,ftand four fine pal- lacesithat of the Prince Cobnnajhzt of Cardinal Gbifh that of Cardinal Sforza, and that of the Signori Mutt. Crofling from hence into the Corfo I took an exadt obfervation of this llreet, which is the faireft Wfll ^ in Rome. Its called the Corfo , becaufe here it is that they make horfes run againft hor fes , Jews againft Jews, boyes againft boyes, and the like, in Carnival time. Here alfo it is, that the Mafcarsdcs march in Carmval time, andmakt themfelves and others merry : and all this is allowed the Italians that they may give a little vent to their fpirits which have been fiifkd in for a whole year, and are ready clfe to choke with gravity and me- lancholy > I&8 The Voyage lancholy j moil men here living alone in their houfes and chambers. If our Scatefmen in England had gone on in the courfe their wife anceftours had fhewed , and had fufiered, as they did, fome honett recreations to the people, as bowl- ing, (hooting, racing &c, to give vent to their a&ive fpirits, we had all been happyer : but while both the Tribunals , and the Pulpits thundered out againft moderate recreations and aflemblyes, out of fear and faction, they made the humour of the Englifhmen grow fo fowrand bitter,that nothing would pleafe them, but fiat rebellion, and fanatick herefies. Now here in Kerne, once a year , In Carntval time every" one vents his- humour according to his fancy > and (as it feems} according to his need. One piayes the Dodar of the Law, and goes up and down the Greets with his book in his hand difputing with every man he meets and utter- ing pure raillerie : and if by chance two fuch Doctors meet, they make fpott enough for half an hour by their Or Italy igo their abufing one another.. Four of thefe pretended Dolors • with their gowns and caps on* and their books of the Codex before them , got an Afs into their coach who hadalfo another book before him i and thus they went along the ftreets ftudying and turning over their books. Another takes himielf to be a grand Cyrus-, and goes a horfe- back with a rich Perfian habit and Plumes highly mounted. One went a foot gravely with a cloak on , and cryed a fecret againft mice, and opening his cloak , (hewed . a cat that he had under his arm ; another went up and down the fkeet combing his hair like a Spaniard faluting the Ladies and twirling up his mufiaches with a flayed gravity. Somego in coaches and there play on inftruments ; others go ongreat carts, with little ftages of boards thrown upon them, and there act little plays as they go along, and abufe tradefmen. One rides like a Phyiician upon a mule with a world of Urinals hung round about him, Others ride grave- I 190 The Voyage ly through the ftreets with great cloakbags behind them as if they came from Folonia. Some Princes here make glorieus Garros, with 4 horfes on abreaft drawing them , and with rare Pageants upon them, and a great train of horfemen and trumpeters clad exotically, accom- panying the Carro in a moft glo- rious manner. Some noblemen of higheft quality,as Dukes, and Prin- ces, I have feen going a foot pelting with (ugar plums thofe that were in coaches and windows h and anger- ing them with their (ugar affronts. But never did any Majcaradeplafh like that fpeculative Italian who mocked both the French and the Spaniards at once by walking up and down the ftreetclad half like a Don, and half like a Monfieur. One fide of his hair hung down 111 a long curled lock powdered white: the other fide was black andfweaty. Half of his beard was turned down- wards: the other half was turned up with irons and twirled in like the hilt of an old dagger. Ctae eye was Of Italy iqi was bare and the other had a glafs, or half fpe&aclc before it held on by a fmall wire from under his hat. Half his hat was a narrow three- fingered -brim'd hat , with a little kalf feather upon the brim : the other half of it was a broad brim without fo much as a hat band. One half of his band about his neck was of a broad bonelace ftarched white: the other half was made of courie lawn ftarched blew and Handing out upon a pickydilly of wire. Half of his face looked white with meal and powder ; the other half looked black and tawny. Half of his doub- let was white fatin with an open fleeve and a world of fhirt huffing about his wrirt and half of his waft: the other half was of black freeze with a black taffety fleeve clofeand ftrait to the arm, and a hanging fleeve of freeze. One half of his breeches was of fearlet, and raftly wide at the knee, with a confuiion of ribbansd* of fix colours: the other half was of black taffety clofe at the knee. Upon one leg he had a lin- nen 1-6 1 The Votagi nen flocking with a great laced canon turned down to his half leg ; on the other he had a black filk ftockin drawn up clofe. In fine, on one foot he had a white fpanifh- leather (hoe, with a (tiff knot of fix coloured ribband a quarter of an ell long : on the other a little black flat foled (hoe tyed with a ftiort narrow ribband. Thus this moral Hermaphrodite and walking Em- blem of peace between the two na- tions, walked up and down the Gorfe gravely ; yet laughing within himlelf, to fee how he carried about him two fuch Antipathetical nations in one fuiteof cloths. By this you may guefs at their ether fooleries in Carneval time, and fee how innocently they divert them- (elves: for you muft know, that none are fuffered to carry fwords or arms while they go masked thus j not to enter into any houfe ; nor to be abroad masked after it grows dark i nor to do , or fpeak any thing fcandaloufly that may fhok civility or publick view; for which reafon O p ITALT ICJ5 reafon here are alwayes guards Cet, and fergeants riiing up and down the ftreet of the Corjo, to keep all in order , and to make even mirth obierve decency. In this ftreet alfo of the Corfo it is that noblemen and Ladies take the ayre every fair evening in their coaches. For this reafon there arc | many fine pallaces built in this I ilreet •, as the Pallace of Signor Vi- tcllefcbi) where Ifaw ten chambers SomePaU on a floor, and all of them filled Iaces *» with a rare collection of pi&ures 8c ,he9er l 9 - itatues. Among the ftacues I was plea fed exceedingly with that of Cincintutus-, and with that otBmtHf defaced by the command of the I Senate, where the very markes of [the punches of the Hilbards •wherewith they defaced it, are yet -feen. Not far from it (lands the paflace of Pren&ft pjmV.io., in which Ifaw more riches and rare tf# p*l- | furniture than in any houfe in Rome l*c* °f lor-almoft in Italy, For here ^^'^ they (hewed me excellent plate of [gold and fiivcr ; an Agate .Croflc I i fixed 195 The-V'ot-agi* upon afoot of the root of Sapbjr- jloue, and under it. a balls beiet roundwith Camtos cut into pictures: a-greatfilver Crucirix upon an tbe- ny frame, the whole worth 12000 crownes : a rare cabinet with the .picture of our blelTed Lady in ic-, the whole valued at 6oco crownes : a fword whofe hilt is of three great Turky (tones of great Value : a bafm cfgo'd fet thick with Turky (lones : three or four great Bezoars ftones as big as pearmants, which had been prefented to Clement the VIII trom all parts becaufe he flood im need of them: a rich mitre fct with pretious (tones of great Value: and a world of curious originals of the beft painters hands :curious faddlcs,har-- neis, liveries of fhow embroidered' with gold and (ilver, with many other rich curiofities. The other* pallaces in the Corfo are thefeythat. of Frencipe Carboniano\ that of Car* dinal franciotiis that of ZWyfc-i gttjUr.o Chifj, that of Yrencepe Ln-* divifw, that of the Duke Cattano- There arcalfo in this iheet fome, Churches Mart* in Via- Lfsta, Of Italt \yj Churches worth taking notice oftas that of S. Maria in Via Lata, which $a*t» ftands near the Pallacc of the Frince Pamfilio., Its an ancient Church, and Cardinals title. Bj- roniHs faith , that its built there £ where S. Paul lodged at his rirft coming to Rome. Its faid alfo that in the Oratory hereS. L*^ewrot§ the Ads of the Apoftles. There is alfo in the Corfr the Church of S. Marcello, a title of a f;^" Cardinal. It was built in the place where anciently flood the Temple of the infamous Egyptian Goddef* Jfu t which Tiberius himfelfcaufed to be pulled down, the Idol thrown into iyber, and all the Piieftsof it to be crucifycd,for having favoured a great crime comitted by a Roma* Lady. Behind this Church ftandt the Oratory of S. Marcello, called the Oratory of the holy Crucifix, where there is a famousC on fraternity in which many noble m-nofRowi are enrolled. Every Friday in Lent there is excellent muiick. and one of the beft preachers in Rome. From I t hence 1^3 The Voyage hence alfo in the Holy year, I faw march a proceflion of 15000 men, all in black buckram coats to the heeks, with a white torch in their hands 5 and they went from hence on the night of Manday Thurfday untoS. Peters Church. Then the Church of £. Carlo in % C 1 Corfo, wherelfaw the heart of S. Charles Borromeo in a Chryftal cafe, This Church belongs to the MiU- nefu Then the Church of S. Jacatrn clt S T*como?F Incnfibiii, a neat round Church it gV in- belonging to the Hofpiral here, tuYubWi. where they that are afflicted with incurable difcafes, are entertained and well tended. j7, e Cen- Laftly the Church of the penitent ventoftht whores with their Convent i where repented a lj t ] 1Q f c poor f oU | s t fa t re p ent themfelves of their bad life , are received , and kept all their life time, at the coft-of this Convent. And here I found a great difference between thisConvent,and thehoufe in AmjUrdam , where whores are clapt up. For here thefe poor fouls are
  • ubms.
Of Italt jpp are locked up with their own con- fent and deiire ; there they^are lockt up by force and violence. Here the poor women do great ads of auftcrityes and penance , as the bloudy walls of their CeHes laid open by a conflagration fhewed unto all the City: there the young women laugh, and are merry. Here no man j is permitted to fpeak alone with * them, except their Confeifo^ckphy- ficianithere many men go to prattle and pafs their time with thofe wanton girles, at a feparation of railes, Here a Vail hides the(e poor womens faces : there I faw divers with black patches on their faces. Here all fignes of true re- pentance are feen , there none.Here the love of venue and penance locks up thefe : there the Vice of Love locks in thole, and not true repen- tance. For really all the repentance I faw there was, that it repented me, that I had fuffered mine hoft ( who would needs (hew me all the rarities of jimflsrdain ) to lead me thither.. Li QhjiUien jrfwr. 300 The V ot age O bnt,faid a Hollander tome,tht Pope allowes whores in Komt. To whom I anfwered : no mere £ir,than your dates do drunkennefs, which 15 a greater iin of the two, becaufe it rides double, and car- ryeth luxury behind it. Do not drink wine in which is luxury. Ephcf 5. But faith an Engliin wiiterj am fold, that the Pope both permits them , and takes money of them too tor thatpermiflioxi. You have been told many other falfc tales by thofewho think it law- Xenton in full to tell untruths, fo they fpeak
  • " trati fi |>ut againft the Pope ; in the mean
•f»f»rj/l. [im ^ j £ k at j lavc ^ cen g ve t j mcs m &>me t can tell you the contrary, if by permitting you mean allowing end approving of them in that couife. Thercs a great difference between allowing, and permitting a thing. Mofes allowed nor, feut yet permitted the libel of divorce to the Jews for the hardnete of their hearts. £>o ufury is permitted,but not allow- ed in divers countries , for trades fake, But
    • /.<*.
4h[vi. «./.£>. Matth, Of It alt act But why takes he money of them? This money is taken up by you upon credit, not the Pope. For ^ the Pope is fo far from receiving ji n fv\ any money of thefe drabbs that he goes to great coir, to hinder their trading. No man perhaps hath told you this, and therefore, lie tell it you , know then that the Pope to hinder all young women from being naught, bath founded Hofpitais for poor girles , where they are carefully brought up till they become either marryred wifes, or NunnS. Nay, he gives them dowries alfo to execute this tjieir choice , distributing yearly tjponthe Feaftofour Ladyesday in fyenr, in the Church of the Domi- nicans fapra Minervam ^ a purfe of money a piece, to three hundred young maids who are prefented to him by theoverfeers of the forefaid Hofpitais. Nor is this all: for he eaufeth yong girles of tender yeares, to be taken from their poor fuf- pedred mothers, left poverty, (j»£ eogit ad mrpia , mould make them iactifjcethofe"tei>dex.virgins to rich I i 4 IBCQS P etrut a S.R.0 Trsajur. 2©2 The Voyage mens lufts. In fine, he hath caufed a Monaftery to be built in Rome to receive thole poor unfortunate women in, who would leave that infamous courfe, if they had but n.i'Min meanes to live on. Nay, he granteth hhcro- Indulgences to any that will marry
  • 1 ? !£ an y °* tno ^ e women 3 t0 f ree f hem
from that lewd courfe, and make them mend. All this the Pope doth , and much more i which would be a defhoying, of his own trade and gain , if it were true, that he countenancethand alloweth of whores for his gain. No miller everdeturned the current of water from his own mill. < But why doth not the Pope dif- fo.mtenance and punifh whores that are known to be fuch ? He doth Co. For is it not a dif- countenaflcing of them, to forbid them to come to publick meetings, and afiemblies, where women of honour meet ? as, at the Corfo, in the evenings ■■> at publick manages* at their fung opras ••> and the like ? Is it not a difcountenancing of them O * Italy 203 them to forbid them to go incoaches in the day timej or to iiir out of doors in the night ? Is it not a punishment to them,to forbid them to live together, where they might encourage one another , and pals their time more cheerfully ? But for the molt part they livcalone , condemned to the melancholy horror of their crimes, and the fo» litude of feven whole weeks in Lent, when upon pain of rigorous . punithments and imprifonment. , they. dare not admit of anycuftor mers. The like rigour is.ufed; againftthem alfo in Advent, that during the fpace of thole holy times, , thefe unholy women may have time to think of themfelvcs, and admit; oi Gods holy inspirations tor ilicir amendment. Is it not a puniuSment . to them to becbliged to enter their names publickiy in the hit of whores? For if 'Tacitus obtefves f* 1 I 1 J r. / • (tHttM.5 that the old Romans, j.itu p&njmm adverjUm impudicAf in ipfj profrffio- fie fl^aitti apud JEdiles crerhb*nt , thought it fmijhment enough againjki I.j 5 Hjicb'ajfci 204 The Voyage Hncbaft Wdmetf i in their very profef- ft?^ tbemj'elves to be fucb before tbe JEAiU* I cannot but think it a &reat punishment to Chriftian whores ("who areatleaftas feufible as the fceathens , of the horrible difgrace cf having their name Jilted ) to be thus defamed for ever, by remaining whores upon Record. Is it not ft punifhing of them, to deprive them all their life time (as leng as they live whores) of the holy Sacra- ments sand after their death, of Chriftian Burial Ms it not a pu- ttiinmenr, and a deterring of them from vice, to throw their bodies when they dye, into an obfeure place out of the walls of the town, as if they defer ved no other Burial place than that of Affes ? Is it not,. in fine, a punilhment to them, not to be allowed ro make any Will, or Tcftamcnt, but to -leave all their. goods confifcated either to fhfi Hofpitalsof poor honelt girles 3 or to the maintaining of thofe guards, that are to watch over their de- portments }■]£ thefe. punimments both. bothofbody,foul, andhonour,bc in- flicted upon whores in Rime, as they are, do not urge any more, that whores are not punched in Rome, nor discountenanced. ,. „ But why doth not the Pope punifh ^ them home,and root them quite out by banifhment > This hath been attempted by An ^' divers Popes, and namely by Pius Ghtintw of happy memory (as tbua- ??us in hishiltory writes j but feeing greater inconveniences, and greater linsarofe upon it, prudence, which is the fait that mutt feafon all moral a- dions, thought it not rit to carry on ! that rigour i nor yet allow of forni- cation neither. So that all theper- mifilon of whores in Rome that can colourably be imagined is onclya not puuifhing of them in all rigour i and even that too, for a good end j and to hinder greater evils. Bat the Pope taing both a Tempo • c^eS* ral, and an Ecclefijfiicai Superiour, is bound, in my mind , to break through all refpedb, and fettle in^ nocency in the world. Its 'Mitfiv. Staesg, 306 The Voyage Its zealouily fpbken i and I wifli he could do it : but d'iff.eilem rem optas, generis bumzni innocentistn '. hemfhetb a hard thing rcbo tvijbetb for ibe inncczncy <f mankind , faith a wifeman.And if Princes fometimes do not puntfn factious fubje£rs , when they fee, thac the punith^ng ©f them would pull the whold State in pieces over their heads, and put the whole kingdomein danger, as it did mtiwy the Third's time in Trance upon his canfing of the Duke of Gnife robe killed in Blois.: If Generals ofarmiestakc no notice of feme treacherous commander, who is univcifally beloved by the foldkrs •,, ltd the punifhing of one man, loofe them the affection of the whole army., as we fawlafely in the cafe or LuUmirs\y ( how truly guilty I know not) and forae yeares agol rtmtmber in the cafe oiWidlfain, whole puniihmeut had almoii undone the Emptj or : why. may not the Pope without ap- proving the tin of whores pru- dently wave the puniflung of it with all Of Italy 207 aJl rigour, when he fees that fuch rigour would caufe greater difor- dersinthathot nation, and in that City where all nations feem to club vjccs, as well as vertues ? Hence learned Abitknfis a great Divine faith i Licet leges human* aliqua ma- la ptrmittant non funundo^ nullum tat- tn e.iJ a men malum permit :tmt jtatuendj, x &'&» But the Pope mould not govern according either to humane policy , or,hmrune Laws and Examples. . You pretend zeal, but.you would do well to take her filter prudence with her, as our Sav-iour did, who when he heard his difciplesdefiring him to let thenical] down iire from heaven upon the criminal Sama- ritans, anfwered them calmly, you know not f tphat jpirityou are. Nay doth not God himfelf, who being able to puniih all criminal perfons, aud root tlkin quite out o£ the world, Curler* both his Sun to rife and (hine upon iinners, and iinners to offend in this Sunmine, and often by k? Hence S. Thorns -faith much O&jtQa Anftv. Lnkf 5>, S.ttes 208 The Voyage a.t.f .10. mac ^ t0 m Y P^ r porc: Humanttm irMi.it regimen derivatur a divino rcgimine y mpore. & jpfum debet imitari. Deus autetn qttamvis fit omnipotent , ac fnmmt bonus, fcrmittit tamen aliqua mala fieri in univerfo, qu<t prohibere p'Jfcth nt lis fublatis, majora bona tolle- rentur , vel majora mala fajW- rentur. Humane government is derived from Divine Government 3 and ought to imitate it. Now God, although he be Almighty, and Highly good, yet he permits evils to be done in the wor d, which he could hinder, left by taking away them, greater goods fhould be taken arcay, or greater evils fhould fi'hrv. But I wade too far into this puddle : yet remember who thruft me into it, and you'll pardon me. Behind the Church and Convent S.Srihtf-of the forefaid Penitents,ftands the I,"'* 471 " Church of San SUvtftrd in caftte, fo calkd: from the picture of our Saviours head and face, which our Saviour bimfelf made by miracle, and Cent to Abjgarus King of Edtffa j as you may read at length in pit Of Italy. 20 ^ in Baronw, and in B$us in his rare book called Roma Soterranea. Now this pi&ure is kept here in this rao> nailery* and with great probability, feeing it was here that divers Greek Monks driven out of their country by Conftantin Copr animus for the de- fence of facred images, were enter- tained by the Pope Faul the tiriU and its very likely that thefegood men brought with them this famous piclure of our Saviour to fave it from the fury of the Iconodajh* Returning from hence into the Gorfo again I went to fee there the Colonna d' Antonino,the great pillar Colonn* of Ant-minus the Emperor. Its AntotyA < built jult like that of Irapn de- fcribed above. It was built by Mar- cus Aurelius Antoninus the Emperor in honour of his father An'oninus Tius. Its all of white marble en- graven without with a bajforilieu.i from top to bottom, containing the memorable afrions of Msrau Au- relius. Its 175 foot high, & hath in it %o6 flairs which lead up to the top Of A- 2K> The Voyaoi of it, and 56 little windows giving light to thole flairs : and yet this high pillar was made of 28 (tones of marble. The carving that is upon it , contains the brave anions of Marcus Aurdius over the Arms- mans, Varih'uni) Germans, Wandals, and Sarmats or Polon'uns '. but age hath fo dcficed thtfe bajji rilimi that us hard to decipher them. He thats curious to know them, may buy them in the printed cuts fold in Rome* Upon the top of this pillar (fends mounted the itatue in brals guilt of S- Paul fet up here by S'txiMt §{uimus. From the top of this pillar I had a perfect view oi Rome, and of rfc ffvtn almoit all the feven hills upon which it is, built and are within the walls: which are thefe: 1. The Capitclin, hill where now Aa Coeli Hands and the Cor/fervjte- torio. 2. The Palat'm hill I could not fee becaufe it ftands behind the for- mer. It was i'o called from the Emperors pallace that itood upon it, 3. The bills of jlome. Aims Capiioll tuts. tilts Of]taly 211 f 5. The Avtniin hill Co ca]lecU»««i- from Aventinus King of ^/i»,* bu-*"^- ried here where now S. Salinas is. 4. The Cxltan hill beginning a t Ca ,j iffSa S. Gregories and running to £. jM?w 5. The Efquil'm hill, txquilinus Efquili- (jitjfi excubinur ., becaufe of the**"'* nightly Watch and guard upon it. Here/tends S- Mary Majors. 6- The V'tminal hill, fo called vimaalit from Vimina, that is, 0jjerj,where- with it was anciently covered. Hae (land the 1kerm& Diocletian* and the Villa of Montalto. 7. The Qmrinal hill fo /called Vtt - iriua „ from the temple of guirimts^ or/^ Romulus which flood upon it. Here now ftands MonteeavaL'o. Thefe were the feven ancient hills of Rome, to which were added three more, to wit j the Jamcule hill, fo called, from J d »«/ buried here. u » is * lm Here ftands «§• P/V/w Montorio. The Vatican hill, io called from . the Vaticinations and foothfayings made here. £. Fears Church ftands now upon it. The I WreRa. 212 The $J ota gi »;„,;,„ The Tincim hill, now called r ) tit '■tie ' er Koj/m- w\o7itrinita> Descending from hence •»•«»» I went ro the Pazzorclla , where 2& P«*- they keep madmen and fools v and faw there ttrange variety of hu- mours in folly : yet I was-pleafed to fee with what charity and care thofe poor men were tended there. From hence T ftept to confidcr, in the Piazza di Tiara , the row of curious pillars which adorned the JBafilica of the Emperor Antomnns who had his pallace heie, -and his forum* Then turning by little unfrequent- ?£•.££ ■ ed ftreets, I came to the Roman Colledge belonging to the Jefuits. Its a fair building, and ftands conveniently forconcourfe of fchol- lars from all parts. Here I faw the f^ffchool s,and gallery of famous Atba- nafius Kerk$rins , full of pretty cu- xiofiiies and experiences both mechanical^ mathematical, and by- draulical : yet in my opinion , ifa far fhort of Cmomco Sett 4m gal- lery in Milan-, or Monfteur Scrticrt in Lyons* Hcres alfoa fair Library having mnnt'ol Uigt, O f It alt 213 having no fault in it bin the common fault of moft Libraries, to wit, Locks and Keys to it. Good books fhould be as common as the Sun , feeing they are rhe lights of our minds and made publick by the prefs ; and I cannot but pity a book thats imprifoned and locked up in a Library, by faying unto it : Odifti claves & grata JigiVa fudic* , Vatieis ojiendi gemis, & cormnunla laitdMAn rine, I favv here the Apo- thecaries (hop where a Lay brother makes excellent Roman Treacle, «nd other odoriferous diftillations of Soveraign Vertue. The Church belonging to this Colledge is de- signed to be a noble thing, but its but half built for want of a whole founder. From hence I went to the Domi- nicans Convent, called U Minerva, becaufe its built upon the place, where anciently frood the temple of Minervam. Hence alfo the Church is called Santa Maria fupra Mi- nervam, In this Church I faw many neat tombs, as thofe of Lta the X, and La Mi- Ktrva. 214 The Voyage and Clement the VII, both Popes of the houfeof Medicss : they Hand in the J^«/re,and are neatly wrought by that great artilt Baccio Bmdine.1- \i. Then the Tomb of Cardinal Titneniclli a modern Cardinal. The tomb of great Cardinal Morone, Le- gate for the Pope in the Council of "Trent , and a man who had been thirteen times Legatus a Lxttre. Here alfo lye buried the afhes of Egidio Fofcarari Bithop of Modem* called in the council of 'Trent^Lumi- nan Ma'jHs. The Tomb of a Lady of the family of the Raggi, is very neat for the new manner of fpread- ing ( as I may fay , and as you would think ) of black marble upon an other coloured marble ■> and both of them upon a round pillar. Here on the gofpel fide of the high Altar ftandeth a ftatue of our Saviour made by Michel Angd)^. of white marble, a rare piece. At the en- trance of the great door of this Church, lies buried under a plain flat ftone, TbomM a Via Cactanur S. Ikomas ©f Ajmns, Second, his brother Of Italy 215 brother in religion, his name fake, his learned commentator, and only not he. Out of humility he would not be buried within the Church,but out of it. In the Sacrifiy of this Church, I fawthe Chappel of Ka- thetine of Siena^Sc this Chappel was once her very chamber in SienaiCzf- dinal Antonio Barberino Protector of this order, cauled it to be transfer- red hither from Siena- Her body lyeth under the altar of the Rofary in this Church. From the Minerva I went to Saint Sunt An- Andrea dclla Valid, a tine Church ^^ belonging to the Iheatins. Its built upon the place where the Theater of Vomfcy flood anciently \ and where in latter times flood the pallace oi the family of the Ficolomixis and perchance this was the reafon why two Popes of that family, to wit, Tins Secmdus, and Pius Ic-nius are bow buried in this Church. The Cupola was painted by Cavalier Linfranco; the three corners under the Ciiftla ?nd the tribune are of the hand of Vemenichini. The neat Chappel I Pktro Ma Val it. I 216 TheVoyagi Chappel of the Barber ini made by Pope Vrban the VIII while he was but yet Cardinal, is built upon the very place where S. Sebajiian was beaten and . thrown into a Sink after he had been (hot. There had been formerly a little Church built upon this place, and over this fink, but Sixiur ghtintus gave leave it (hould be pulled down, upon con- dition a Chappel of the new defign- ed Church fhould be built in place of it.In rlne, take all this Church to- gether, and it is one of the neateft Churches ( except the Bafilic* ) that are in K<w*e, being of the Ar- chitecture of Maderna^ In the Fiazza, or rather, the ftrf et which goes before this Church, lived not long ago , Tietro della Vallt that ingenious Roman gentleman, who haviog fpent great means in travelling, hath left us three volumes in Quarig of his curious relations of Veyages. In his houfe here he had three whole Mummies with their coffins or cafes painted anciently, and adorned with divers kierogbybf. He Of It alt 217 He fpent much money in buying many other rarities, which he kept atfb here. Behind this Church livcd,when I firft was acquainted with Rome^ an ®ther great Virtusfo and gentleman of Komt, I mean the ingenious Co.- Cjtva \ m valkr Pozzo with whom I wasp ^# brought acquainted and faw all his rarities, his curious pictures, medals, bafli rl/fflVf] his excellent books of the rareii things in the world, which he caufed to be painted, co- pied, and designed out with great coft. From hence I went to the pallaoe ii» fd- of the Duke Mattbei, where Ifaw /rf " / many good pictures and ftatues , especially that long picture repre- senting fully the manner of Clement the' VIII his going from Rome to take pofTeifion of Ferrara* Thence falling in at S, Carlo in Catmari, a neat round Church, I went to the CameVaria, This pal- t& en- lace was built of the itones of the ^ AXt *- Cnlifea by Cardinal JHwii. The chic! thing I law in it was the gal- lery 218 The Voyage lery of pi&ures of Cardinal Barbe- rin, who being Vicechancelour-^wtth alwayesin this pall ace to exercife SanLo- his charge the better. nnzo in This pallace looks into the church Damaji of San Lorenzc in Damjo-, a Col- legiate Church. Under ri>e foigfa al- tar repofeth the body of S. D t imafus Pope. The walls of the body, or the Church are rarely painted with the hiftory of S. Laurence. Not far from hence ftands the the t? U ^ a ^ ace °^ Farnefi belonging to the lace of Duke of Parma- Before it itands a Torneji. noble Piazza with two rare foun- tains in it. The pallace it felf is one of the belt in Rome, or elfe where, It makes anlfle, that is, it hath no houfes joining to it. The form of itisfquare, and it hath in themidft of every fquare, a great door letting you into the Court. This Court is built upon pillars and arches, with a fair open gallery above letting you into feveral appartiments. In this Court I faw the famous ftatue of Hercules leaning upon his club, which was found in the Iberm* of Antoninus O r Italt 219 AntoniHs Caracalla : one of the legs is modern, the reft old and made by Glyco an Athenian, as the Greek words upon it told me. There is an other ftatue oiHercuks oppoiite to it, and juit like it but not Co good, being but a copy of the former. The other ftatues here of the two Floras, the two Gladiators, and others, arc excellent pieces. Mounting up the great ftairs to go into the chambers and open gallery, I faw the curious ftatue of the Boy andthe Dolphin : and at the door of the great hall, the ftatues of two Parthian captive Kings. Entring into that hall I met presently with the rare ftatue of A- tf,e/atu* Uxandtr Farneft-> T>uke of Varma of Mex- trampling up5 2 proftrate ftatues re- ™der prefenting bo efj and rebellion \ while * Arnt r* fame crowns him. All thefe 4fcveral perions are of white marble, and of one entire ftone.Its pity that fueh a ftatue ftands not in feme more pub- lick place, to teach men to beware of the mother and the daughter,*-Ie- refy and rebellion 5 and Ihew them, what long hands Kings have. In the lame hall I faw the two excellent K k ftatues I $20 T HE V ©YAGE ftatues of charity, and plenty, in cumbent poflures => and they are the fellows tothofe two itatuts which adorn the Tomb of Faulus Ttr- tiuf , the raiferof this family, in S Feterf Church. Round about this room aifoftand a world of ftatuesof gladiators, ihnding wirh their iwords in their hands, & in fcvcral j pofiures, upon their gard.In the next ■ chamber I law rare pictures contain-* | ing fomc actions of Fauhis Wkkjusy and they are of the hand of S ahj.it i and Federico Zuccar'u There is alfo the picture of Luther difputing with Cam an : and a picture of.tjie four Latin Doctors of the Church,S.- ■ilffierwn'a, S. AmbroJ'e , S. Augtift'm ,1 &S. Gregory, o$ the hand of Firdon'in'u In an other chamber, a world of ancient llatues of Philofophcrs and Poets : as Eur if lies, Pino, Foflido- riins, Zen::-, Seneca.Ui'genes^Bucchuf J Meleagcr , aftid others, Another room full of pictures of -choice hands, and a curious table oi pietre ■iov.-mrjfe about twelve foot long & y j wide. Then the rare Gallery offta- tuts, with the roof of it painted moft| admirably. Of Italy 221 admirably by the raviflnng hand of great Ham'ihd Caraccio, and con- taining the reprefentation of the loves of the heathen Gods and God- deflfes. This painting may be com- pared, if not preferred, before all the galleries of Rome, or Europe, and the very cuts of it in paper pictures, fold at the Stationers (hops, are moft admirable, and worth buying. In the fame gallery alio ftands the in- comparableftatueof Apollo in a flint itone. Hereisalfo a curious Library in which belides the curious books , are many rare pieces of miniature, and rare pictures; of Raphael & 7i- tian , and divers excellent defign* of the fame Raphaels and or' Mlebd Angelp ■■> that efp^ci ally of his Judg- ment. Returning again through the fame rooms, I could not but gaze again at the itatlie of my fa- vorite He ros* Alexander Fannfi, and began at lait to think that I was mifhken even now' when I {'aid , that Jrltrcttfes his itatue (tood in tha- Court below, for upon better reflec- tion, I Hud no ftatuejri the pallacc to refemble Hercules Co much, as this • K' k 2 of 222 The Voyage of Alexander ofPartria » of whom I may fay, as Sulla fa id of O/ir, In uno Cdfare, multifum Marti : in one Alexander of Varma^ there are many Hsrculefes. Then mounting up into an appar- timent over the former, I faw divers chambers exquifitly furnHbed with pi&ures, and ldTcr ftatues. In the long gallery there are divers rare pieces of the hand of Car actio. In theothcr rooms many ancient cu- rious things, as an ancient piece of painting found in Adrians Villa and made fifteen hundred years ago-, an other ancient pidrure of Eu^enius tht jr"ftudying,and S- Bernard Handing by him. A rare defign of Vajfari reprefenting a town in F lander t- taken by Alexander Farneft. Mi- chel Angelos true pidture. TheFc* '»«/ rf Michel Anielo. The lirtlfl old pidure of our Lady, and S> J'hri Baptism afmall mofaick work, M Crucifix in Ivory of Michel Angela^ making. The delign, or rather th<j pjrfcdt model of the bridge throwij over the Sceld^ by which Akx*nde% Farnefi cook Attttveifc A greaj c a bine] Bull. Of Italy 223 cabinet of Medalls* with a world ok' other rarites too long to be related, but never enough to be feen. Then defcending into a little back if* court, I faw thsre the famous Toro.f'™ ™ It is a ftatue of a great bull, to whofe horns a rope being tyed at one end and at the other end of it a womans hair, two lufty fellows are ftrivitig to pufli this bull from a promon- tory into the Sea below, and the woman together with him, to make her away. The ftory is known, and it is of Ampbion and Zetus, who to revenge their mother Antiope Jor the wrong done her by £«•<*, (who had got Lieut King of Thebes to repu- diate Antiop for to marry her ) took this Viree y and tyeing her to a bulls horns threwthem both, the bull and the woman into the Sea* The bull , the two brothers, thr woman, a little boy, andadog,are all cut oat of one marble ftone. The fnaSHing fellow that keeps this bull, or rather, whom this bull keeps, will tell you another ftory of this ftatue through thenofe : but feeeing he fells his liory, as well as tells it, K k 3 you I I P«nti Sifto. the Hof- fital of the holy Trinity. % 224. The Voyage you had better give him a Julio be- times to be rid of him, than hear a- Kother long and new fable. Going from hence into the great fiazza again, I itept into the houfe of the SigxoriFighini , which ftands cveragainft the p allace of Famefijo fee two flatties, the one of Vwus, the other of Adonis, both ancient ones, and fo rarely made, that the Earl of Arondil) late Lord Marflial of En- gland, offered twelve thoufand crowns for them , but was refufed. Pafling from hence towards the pa) lace of Cardinal Sfada, I entered into it, and there faw many exquifit pictures. Thence I went to fonte Sifto, and from thence to the Hofpital of the Trinity, which receives all Pilgrims coming to Rome, forthrte dayts , and treateth then plentifully, Icon' fefp , I went often hither, and as o ten admired the wonderful cha- rity which is done here daylyi but eipeciaily in the holy week in lent,by the Confraternity of this HoJ 'pit al, of ivhich^moft are gentlemen.Here no* bleme-* Of Italy 22$ blemcn, Bifhops, and Cardinals wafh the Pilgrims feet, and then fcrve them at fupper in the long refectory, where there are frequen ly in the holy week, four hundred pilgrims at once at table Returning from thence I went to s .Gml*- S. Girolam-3 della Charita, a Church modeUn and houfeof good Pridts, and molt Cb'arita, of them Gentlemen, living or" thcis own expences, yet all in community. S. fblllip Neri inftitutcd them, and lived among them thirty years. In the Church I Taw upon the high al- tar, an excellent pidure of S,Hie- rome. Hard by ftands the Englifh Col- ledge, ©nee an hofpital for the En- '„ ^ glim , and built by the Englifh j^,. merchants in Rdme, to receive En- g 1 1 til pilgrims in> becaufe a poor Englilh woman had b_ 3 en found worryed by dogs in the night, for want of a lodging. In the Church of this Colledge, lies buried Car* dinal Alan, the laft Englifh Cardi- nalof our nation. From hence I went to the Cbiefa fht Chit* Nueva belonging to the good/*^** Kk ^ priefts 116 The Voyage Priefts of the Oratory. This is one of the neater! Churches in 'Rome and the belt ferved. Its all painted in the roof by the rare hand of Pietro SCartoTia, and richly guilt. Here I faw the neat Chappel of S. Philip Neri a primitive Saint in all things but time. He was the inffttutor of this holy company of Priells, who are religious men in allthings but in vows, and name. The Chappel and altar of this great Saint is on the Gofpel iide of the high altar, his true picture there, was made by Guido Kknl Under this altar, in a lower Chappel or Vault, lyeth the body of this Saint in an iron cheft : if yon defire to know his merits and life, ask all Reme which lately faw them, and dayly feels them. On the other fide of the High Altar within the rails, lies - buried Cefar Baromus? once a Prieft of this houfe, and forced , after much reluc1:ancy, to be made curlual Cardinal by Clement the VIII. He c*J*r deferved this honour in the opi- &*ranius. n - l(mQ f z \\ men> f or having written His incomparable Ecclefiaftical bifio- v~ O * Italy 227 r/j and {{Hercules^ for helping Atlas to bear up heaven one day only, was feigned by Poets to have defer- ved to be taken up to heaven d may- jufrly (ay, that Bar mitts deferved Well the purple of the Church, for having alone born up the caufe of the Church of God, againfta whole troop of Genturiators. For- my part, I reckon it among my felicities, to have lived after Baronius^ and to have fpent a good part of three years itudy, in reading his facred Annals, which colt him ten times three years Itudy in writing. And here I could enter into a fair field of his praifes^ and like the Eagle in the (lory, having nothing elfe to give him, give him a feather, that is one caft of my pen \ but that I wrife of countryesnow, and not of men » and that his full praifes may be in- cluded in thofe three ihort enco- miums > Ecclefi* Codes '■> C<efar CbrijiUnus j Orbit L-ecup'etjtor. The houfe of thefe good Priefts deferves alfo to be fcen tor the Li- braries fake, which is one of thebeft-r/,,.^^ r. Rom?: and for the great Oratories tory, Kk 5, fike.v 2~2o* The Voyage fake, where there is every Sunday and holiday in winter at night, the bcft mufick in the world. !&***«.. f rom hence I went to the Church de la Pact , a neat Church and adorned with excellent painting & fhtues. Here many famous painters have fignalifed their memories, as Feruzzi of Siena , Vafan , Lavinia a Lady of Bolognh^ Fon:ana-> Gen- iikjchi , Cavalier Giojeppe , Rpfji , and Raphael Vrb'm himfelf, . who puintt d the Prophets and Sybils in the Chsppel of Axguftiw Cbigi : and iome think that he made the little hoyes that are fo well done. The ftatucs of S. Pater and S. Fjj,/, are of the hand of Michel Anjtl >, ' Going from hence through the ftreet of the Statimsw , I came to the FLzZza riPafqmna, which is thought to be the very center of ll-me. And litre I cannot ferret t>fpt:n Pafqpi'.f? himfelf ,, who forgets no man. This Pjffjt/m -is an old broken •itatue, fomc thing like that of H.r~ inks in the B>&>&kre defcrihed above, and of lome rare hand. And becaufe it Hands near three, or four tftccEs Of Italt 229' ftreets , whereby to efcape when- they have fixed their Libells, jeering wits (et up here, and father upon poore MeJJer Papjuino , their Sity rical jealis, called from him , Paf- qmnadesh which Morforius , another ftatue near the Capitol , ufcth to anfwere. From hence palling on to the Church of S . Pantalcon belonging S ' Pa **' to the Fathers of the ScboU PU, Iwas willing toentef into it .and . fee it, becaufe four hundred years - ago, it was a Collegiate Chinch , and pofTefled by Englifli Pridis, as may appear by the inscription upon a bell which was call then. From he nee I ftept into Piazza Piazza) Navona , called lb by corruption Navontuy from Piazzi d Afrona, becaufe this Piazza was anciently a Circus for fports , and it was called Circus Agmalis. In the midft of it anciently ftoodagreat Egyptian pillar with hieroglyphs upon it \ and now of late it hath gotten another fuch, pillar Ccz up here by Pope Innocent the X , with a rare fountain ifluing-, forth at the foot of it, and adorned' with, the Church 0|© The Voyage with four great ftatues of white marble reprefentingthe four parts of the world. In this place alfo , (tends the new Church of S. Agnes '/ built upon the place where me was condemned to the news. This Church is built at the coft of Prencipe Fampbilio, whofe pallace joins up- on it. This Pallace overlooking the Piazza Navona^ defcrv.es not onr ly a glance of an eye, but a!fo an hours infpedtion within. The chain- bers are many and fair,and the great Hall a molt lovely room, if paintings and variety of pi-dtures in frames can make a houfe handforae In this Piazza alfo I law the pal- lace of the Duke of Bracciano , of the houfe of Orfvii: and that ot the family of Torres. The Spanim Church here called $• Jacnmoj, is not to be forgot r en : Here lies buried in it Ciacomus a learned Critick for a Spaniard.Thc pidture here in oyl of San Diegoh of Annibal Caraccio* Over againft the bnck door of this the S^i- Church ftands the Saphnz*-, a fair '***' GjUedge-y where the publick Letftrres are. Vmmfbi He. O f Italy 251 are read.ThisColIedge was begurrby Eugenw the IV, but much beau- tifyed of late withhandfomefchools and a neat Church, by Vrban the VIII. and a publick Library by Alexander the VII. We have had, in my time, two Englishmen that were Readers here? Doctor Hart-, and Dodor Clbbs a Noble Cefa- reanLtureatFoet, and the Horace of this age. From hence paffing through the Tiazzi Madama , and before the palace of the Grand Duca, I went to 5. Levous his Church belonging to the French Nation. 'Its a hand-^ #Irw ^ fom Church, and well (erved with French Prietts. Theres alfoan Ho£ pttal belonging tc that Church and Nation. In the Church I found upon a pillar on the left hand, the picture of great Cardinal Dojfata French man, whom I may }.ultly call Great, becaufe he was both a great Statefman,& yet a very good man 1 , that is, he was a great, fervant to his King \ and yet a great fervant of Cod. His rare Letters (hew the one j and his life written by, iht Pal face of lufitniani "232 The Voyage by Vu Verdier, (hews the other. Here lies aifo buryed in the middle almoitof this Church, an Englifh Prielt of great vertue , by name, More, of the family of great Sir IkomM More , and heir of that family, if I miftake not His younger brother and he ftriving whether of them fliould be Prieft, it was his prerogative of age, which making. him to be four and twenty before his brother, made him enter into Orders before him and become Prieft, leaving the Etfate to his brother. It was he , that fet us out the life of Sir "tbomxs Mm iii Englifli: at laft, retiring to Rome to be agent for his brethrenthe Clergy, having ended his butinefs there happily ( which was the procuring of a Catholick Bifliopjhe ended his life fo too, and was buryed here by his own choice. From hence I went to the Pallace •of Juiiiniani, which is hard by. Herelfaw foTnany ftatues of the old Heathen Gods,and fuch roomes full of old marble feet of them, that, you would almoit fvvear the Hea- then, O p Italy. 23: then Gods,whenthey werebanifhed out of the Pantheon, had been com- mitted hither as to a prifon :or that fome of the anceftours of this houfe, had been fhoemakers to the old Gods j and therefore was obliged to have their lafts and meafures. For they had Gods of all fizes, feeingCas Varro faith ) they had 300C0 Gods, a world of theft ftatues are yet ieen in the Gallery above, and in every room in the houfe , which they clog rather than adorn. And yet fcarce one of them, but is a. Palla- dium to this Family v and would portend its fudden ruin if alienated, For, as I remember, the old Prince Jujilniani dying without heirs male, left this man his heir, with this provijoy that he fhould not fo much as alienate one ftatuc upon pain of forfeiting the whole houfe a d goods- Judge then , whether he had net need to ke. p thefe uatues chained up, as the Tyruiu did their Gods in a Siege : or whether the throwing of one of ttu fc itatues out of the 'Window, would not be pro- perly a throwing the houfe out of the 7. 234 The Voyage the windowes. Upon which occa- (ion, I cannot omit to tell you how the ancient ftatues of Rome were €*JJioi. . g rown at i a (t t b e f many in num- ber^ hat (as Cafliodore faith wittily of them) poihritas pempanm popu- lumttrbidedit, quamnatura procrez- vit, posterity had made almoit as many men by art in the City , as were made by nature. And thefe ftatues grew to that exceffetoo, that marble ones were thought too Vulgar, and gold and filver ones were erected by riotous men, who fcorned to be like others in any thing but in being mortal. But to return aga : n to this houfe, I can* not leave it without minding you of fome rare pictures, of 7m.mand o- ther prime mafters,which are mown Infhe Gallery above s efpecially the rare picture otSJohn the Evangeltft of the hand of B.apbael Vrbin '■> and that of our Lady and S. Jofeph in an o her room, which is a rare copy of that famous pi&ure in the cloifter of the Annttnciata in Florence, ©f Ah- dtt* delSarto. from hence I went to the Church of . Of Italy 235 of S. Eulacbio, having feen in the S.EuJfa- way, the goodly xamcsohheThenn£ c *'°* of Alexander Severus. In the Porch of this Church I faw an Infcrip- tion in a (tone , which told me that Alexander of Farma was Chriftened here with his brother, being twinns. This Church ftands in the place where S. Ettjtachw with his wife Tbeopijia , and his Conns Agapitus and 'Ibeopiftur, were put into a brazen bull and martyred by the brazen heart . of "trajan , whom Euftachius had ferved twice as General of his Armies, and gain- ed him as many Victories. From hence I went to the Rotonda otherwife called anciently, the Pan- ™ •*••" tbeon, becaufc it was dedicated to jjjfojf all the Gods.This is a bolder piece of Architecture than men think. For ^ whereas other Vaults are ftreng- 7** thened and made good by being (hutupclofeat the top, and in the center of the Vault, which hinders the Vault from fhrinkingi here this great maflive vault is left wide open at the top, with a hole above three yards wide in diameter. Indeed Sebaftianus 236 The Voyage SebaftianUs Serliut , an experienced man in Frabriks, thinks this Church to be the unick example of perfect Architecture i and PUny in his time, placed it among the rareft works that were then extant. It hath no window in it, nor any other light, but what comes in at the wide hole mentioned above. Anciently it was covered with bnzen tiles, and thole guilt too, as L'ffms thinks j but how its covered with great rtatt Hones. Itsa'hundred and forty foot high, and as many broad : and yet it hath no pillars to bear up that. great roof. Indeed it hath thruft all the pillars out of doors, and makes them wait in the Porch > where there are thirteen great pil- lars all of one piece, each one 53 foot high, and fix in diameter, all of a granite, or fpeckled marble. The CapiteUi of thefe Pillars are the belt in Rome of Corinthian order, fctereis the Tomb of the incompa- rable Painter KafbaelVrHn. Il'e hie efi Raphael , timuii qm ffpite Vinci Jk^mm magna parens, & ntorhnU mor'u la O f Italy 2 §7 In this temple flood anciently the famous Minerva made by Phidias of which htftories ring. Here alfo was placed the liatue of Venus ^ in whofeear that incomparable pearl of Cleopatra hung, which upon a ryotous wager with Af. Antony (whether of them thould make the moll coftly (upper) (he was going to throw into a glafs ot vinegar to ma* cerate it(as (he had done another be- fore) and drink it up: But M- Antony flopping her hand, and confeffing himfelf overcome, the Pearl, faith Pliny, was put in the ear of Venus in the Pantheon. In the rptfttd holes over the altars , were fct thofe heads of the Gods of the heathens, which are now feen in the Brfveden of the Mifcbere. This Temple and its Porch were [q lined an- ciently with brafs, that there was enough of it to make divers great Canons, by Pope Vrbans command , and the great Canopy with the four pillars which adorn S. Peters High Altar. And though the people and Pafquin, two equally fcnfelefs things murmured nauch at the taking away ©f 2%3 The Voyage of this brafs, yet feeing the Pantheon received no damage thereby, and feeing it was improved to that height, that it became Eccleft£ Orns- minium & VAn Munimtntnn, the vvifer fort of men thought it well employed, and let the people and malice talk. I had almoft forgot to tell you that this Temple was made by A7ri/>^j,whohad bsen thrice Con* ful, as the words in the Architrave of the Porch yet (hew. From hence I went through the Campo Marzo, unto the Church of S.Lorttt- &' Lorenzo in Luc ina^f \\ich. is {erved
  • »/'»Xtf»by Cheriei Kegohri Minori. Its an
  • 'tn» ancient Church neatly repaired of
late, and the greateii Parifh Church in Rome, fht ?al- From hence I went to fee the pal- lacesf lace oj Burghefi which is hard by. Burgbtfs. This 1S one oi the nobleit Pallaces in Rome. Ic gives you a fair broad- fide of windows, three ftorie* one .over another 5 and its length is pro- digious. Mounting up tothechan> bers I found a fair open gallery built upon arches and pillars round about the Court. This gallery lets you Of Ita ly 239 you into fevcral appartiments*, and on that fide which overlooks the Piazza-,1 faw a row of ten or twelve great chambers through which I looked at onctf. In thefe chambers and the other rooms, I obferved thefe things. 1. Rich hangings and over them rare painting made by a Capuein Lay- brother. The hiitory of the Queen of Saba coming to vifit Solomons Court, and the rapt of the Sabiner-, which make this Fregio over the hangings , are fo rarely well done , that Raphael and Mi- chel Angelo would not have mended them for colours. 2. A great Cabinet of Ebeny, fetwith hiiloiies caft in gold , and fet with rich pretious ftones > its valued at threefcore thoufand crowns. 3. A rare picture of Hercules and Antens. ^.Kaph^eh own pidrure. 5. Thclaftfrpptr by litijM. 6. The tcrrafs and garden with box knots and fountains of ' watcr,all at the very top of the houfe and overlooking the ftreet, river , meadows and S. Peters. 7. The little back^pallery of pitlmes-^vht re among others, I was (hewn the pictures of Marti* 24Q The Voyage M*n'w Luther, Nicolas Macchiavel 3 and Ctfar Bergia > the two laft great corruptors of Policy, and Manners. 8. The low cool gallery full of ftatues 'and pidtures,efpecially of the Borghe- fan Family. That of Paulus ghtinws inafmall mofaick work is fcarce to be difcovered from painting : as alfo the affumption of our Lady in the fame work. There I Taw alfo litians own pi6ture, and the rare Cmctfx made by Michel Angela, fo to life, that fome men have fabu- louily given out that he drew it af- ter acrucifyedman. From hence I went to fee the M.iufokum Augujii, or the Tomb ■Mau[o. of Augtifius Cafar , Handing near hum An- $. R cj(s Church in a private place % u ft u hard to b^ found our. It was once one of the neatell; itru&ures in Rome. And it was but fitting that the 'fi'rft of the' Emperors mould have an honourable tomb > and that he who having found Home built of brick only had left it all of marble, (hould have a marble monument ere&ed to ' him after his death. V Mm Later i- tiam invent , msrmjream relinqua : laid Of Italy 241 faid Augujim. The Maufokum was Suet0 around building of white marble, going up with tour itories fet round with pillars,and each iiery growing leiTer and leiTer, with green trees fet about every Hory i having at the top of all, the brazen (tatue of Augustus* It was two hundred and fifty cubits high. But now its much defied, and weieefomthing of thegreatnefs of it,but little of its beauty. Going from hence to the Church ofS. Afiiony of Padua belonging to S.Ant.di the fqnugheft , I law the Tomb p of the Gi'wiC Canonilt and Cafitifl Navarre or Martin sJfj)elcuita } with his iiatue in butto over it. This good man hearing hovv bis great friend Caranza was called to Rome to anfwer for fyimfelf in points of doo trine, which he was talily accufed of followed him thither of his own accord , to defend his caufe and clear hii» Jnnocency,aJid having done it, dkdhere. Near to this Church ftands the */*"*" Church and Convent of the Auftin Friers.. \n the Church I faw the - Tomb of S. Monica mother to S. Eibliotht- ca»Ange- lica. Joachims Vrophecit ef the Turkj. t.Apol- livaris. ?h» Ger- man Col' ledge, -the ?al- lozzo d' Mump. 242 The Voyage 5. Ateinftin. Here alfo lies buryed Onufriits Tanvinus,* fryer of thiscon- vent, learned in facred antiquities, & in the Hebrew tongue.In thecon- ventl often faw the neat Library, called Bibliotheca Angelica, becaufe Angelus Rocca, a Bifhop and Mailer of the Popes Sacrijiy, gave it at his death to his Convent jwith an obli- gation of letting it be open in the mornings. Among many curious books , I remember to have ften there the Prophecies of Joachim, where among other things, he faith, that the Turks (hall be* over- come and ruined by three nations : by the French, -proper boms tquof. by the Engltjh , propter bonos mari- narios : and by the Venetians, prop- ter bonum coyifiHum. Thefe are his very words. Near to the forefaid Church ftands the Church of S. ApoUinaris, & the Gfrw*7zcolledge.Htre the bell fingers of Rome meet conftantly. Over againft this Church ftands the Pallacc of the Duke of AUemps : In which I faw the great Hall, and in it, the Triumph of Bucchm in O' It Air 245 in a bajfo rilievo cut in marble wkh exquifite art. I law alfo here the re- presentation of a Town cutinwood, an ancient and curious piece. The picture of our B. Lady with her (on in her armes,valued at five thoufand piitolsj it is of Raphaels hand* The neat Library full of divers good ( ma- nufcrip'ts and ether books. In fine the noble Chappel with the tomb of S. Anackt Pope under the Altar with the head of this Saint in the Saerify, enchafed in filvcr and (et thick with rich ftones. The rich -ornaments here for the Church fer- vice, coft the Duke a hundred and twenty thoufand crownes. s. 7elt» From hence, in fine, I went to S. rlerentm John F 'lor ml ins, a neat Church be- Church \ • longing to the Fioremns^ at whole I coft it was built. Here is in one of the Chappels the pi&ure of our Saviours Refurre&ion made by Lan- franc a rare piece. And being lodged near this Church , I found that I had wandered over all Rome, and was now come again to the Bridg of S. Avgelo-> where I began my firS <layes journey through Rome. L 1 But itrluU Lib.de Speftac, CAO.
  • 44 T he Voyage
But feeing that in fuch townes as this,thcre is alwayes fomthing to be feen after all, I made many irregu- lar excurfions up and down Rome^ to view many things, which I had not taken in my direct way before : as fome pallaces,fome rarefountains, clivers antiquities, ftudies of virtuofi y tnd the like , which I have been forced, for methods fake, to pafs over : yet becaufe there are whole bookesof all the pal)aces,foun tains, ftatucs, and antiquities, fet forth in cuts and pictures I remit my Reader to them while I ask one queftion. Where are nowthofe rare pieces of antiquity which hiftories rather mention , tban we finder now in Home ? as the Cjtnboum Marii j the Gregfifiafs j the Curia Hollilia '■> theV: Golden Houfe of If,; j the Theater of Pvtnrey , of which Tcrtullian faith , Tornpeiut Mjqvus Job fuo tbtatro minor j the Fuium N?rv<g\ the Theater oiStatilm 1 am us i the S ! ptiZ"7imrn Sdei, iht TuWer of frkcttnth i the Hi}f dromus S the Houle otGo)(iiirt>s\ tl)t Ctiuj Fla- miniKs '•> the Circus Ma^mtts i the Atrium O f Italt 245 Atrium Libertatis i Scipio's houfe * the Triumphal Arch of Auguftus C<efar i oWemitian > and a world of other fuch rare buildings, whereby the Romans thought to have eter- nized their memories i if you ask for thefe things in books, you (hall rind their names onely h if you look for them now in Rome y you mall rind no markcs at all of them: which makes me cry out with Petrark j Crede mib'i aiiis qnam h~ B ■ . , „ pdnsjundamtnws egttglorlt, at j.t rnKms g m .■■[ma. : believe me true pe nunmt utriujqi gl:ryj}.in.'s in mid of other found*- &rt, iinvs ibantbe/e ofjianc. Hence Janus Vitilif an ingenious Italian Poet* having cbferved, that all the old ■maffive buildings of Rome are moul- tered away, and that Fluide Tyber onely remains lull, cryes out with this {weet moral. l&ifct bine quidyoflit fortunayimmjti* lib faint. Et que psrpetuo fu:it fluitura., mmviU But I cannot leave Rom' without taking notice of the Devotion, Mu-» fick Ceremonies ) (ho , .vs,Goverraenr, and the inhjb: .an s of this place t of L 1 2 each 246 Th-e Voyage each of which I will *giv N e a touch 1 bqth for my Travellers fake, and my Readers. . . And ffr ft for the X\c votion. of Rome I JjJSJ I found it to be- very great and real in thofe places where the ghtarante Hore and Stations are kept. ' For all the year long the ^uarante Her? go from. one Church to another, through all the Churches o.f %swe\. and there you (hall al waves fee a world of devout people praying and meditating, and hearing the fer- mons, and giving of almes, and all this with that profound refped andfilence, with that affiduityand concourfe, with that fervour and /eal, that you need not ask where .the ftationis, but onely obferve where you fee the people flocking lb f aft in the morning, and where the poor make the greateft hedge and lane.In other Churches of Ko me upon their feftival dayes ( which happen almoft every day , in one place or other)they have the beftmu- Cck can begot,and though this feems to draw mens eares to the Church, rather than their hearts > yet when Of Italy 247 J I remember what elevated thoughts it breeds in the mind*? and how
innocently it" detaines mefl From
doing worfe-, I cannot but place Church "mufick among the ads of devotion* Now, as for this-mufick, it is the ^|T f " bett in the world, and in"the beft-^^ kind, which is voices. For my part 3 having read in a le*arned Author, r that the Rating of mufick if a fign • O of a foul quite out of tune, and not right ftrung for predeftination j and that the Scythian king, who held the • ' neighing^of his horfe , to be far better mufick, than the pipe of fa- fmous 'fblmotheus, was held for an afshim(elf>I thought it both come- ly and law full to love mufick : and being in a place where the beft mu- fick was, I frequented it often with fingular fatisfaclion. Now the beft mufick I heard, was the mufick of the Popes Chappel confifting of pure voices, without any organ, or. other inftruments: every finger here knowing his part fo well, thatthey feem all to be mafters of mufick. Then the mufick of the Cbiefa . Nova > 148 The Voyagi Nov* '■> of S. Apllinarif i upon S. Cecilyes day in the Church of that Saint the Tatrenefs of fingers * of the Oratory of S. Marcello every Friday in Lentiof the Jefuits during the $fytarant chore in Shrovetide, of every good Church of Nunns upon cheir patrons day •■> efpecially that of the Nunns of Campo Marzo? where I heard often Fonfeca fing fo rarely 1 well, that fne feemed to me, to 1 cheer up much the Church in its combats-, and to make the Church Militant either look like the Church I'riumfhant^ or long for it. In a word, whofoever loves mufick «nd hears but once this af Rome, thinks he hath made a faving journey to Rome, and is well payed for all his paines of coming fo tar. Having given my eares many a break- faft upon the mufick^ I gave Uk Cere- my eyes many a Collation upon the mimes. Ceremonies of Rente , which were chiefly thefe. The Ceremony of tfae Popes opening of the Porta Santa y oi S.Pefer/^Church in the Juhilyytar. "ilie Ceremonies of the Popes Chap- pel, Of Italy 249 pel, when he aflifts there, efpecially upon Caridlemafsday, Palmfunday, Manday Thurfday &c.The ceremo- ny of the Popes walhing of thirteen pilgrims- feet i of his finging mafs public kly in S. Peters Church upon S. Peters day and other great days i the Ceremony of Beatifying and of Canoniz ng of Saints * the Ce- remony of his creating new Car- dinals , and giving them their cappin publick ConiiUtory, the Ce- remony of the Mafs fung in Greek and according to the Greeks rites, in the Church of the Greeks Seminary 9 upon theFealt of the Epiphany, and S. Atbanafius his day jthe Ceremony of baptizing the Jews jwith a world of others. One ceremony I was not unwilling to mifs in my fivcteveral voyages, becaufe italwayes implies the death of a Spiritual Father, I mean, the Ceremony of a Sede Va- cante:zr\d of all the bad compliments that ever I heard made, I like "one fo ill as that of a noble man of Ger- many , who being asked by Pop«  Innocent the X,whether he had Teen all theCermoniesofK<?me,anfwer«  L 1 4i ed,. 3$0 T HE VCYAGI ed, that he had feen all, but* Side Vac ante, as if he had faid > Holy Father, 1 have feen all the fine fights of Rome, but your death. A horrible "tramontane compliment, which put I even the Pope himfelf to a fmile. j. As for thefhowes, I law divers, both Sacred and prophanc, As the wippingproceffios in the holyweek. ffioives Thegreat proceffiS from S- Mareellos »f Komt. Oratory to S. Titers Church upon &Krei. 'jMandayThurfday.in the holy year, then Spaniftv Froceffioa m Piazza Navona uponEafterday in the morn- ing in the Holy year. The Pro- ceffion of the Zitih upon our Ladyes day in Lent. The Proceffion of the Prielts of the Orttory upon flirove- tuefday to the feven Churcheswith rive or fix thoufands perfons follow- ing of them, all whom they treat in an open held, giving every one a couple of hard eggs, and a (lice of Jalfigia, with bread and wine. The feveral Cavattatas of the Pope and Cardinals. The Spanijh Cavatcats upon S. feters Eve , when the Spanifh Embaifador preients the purfe of gold, and the Gennet. The Girandola and hre works upon S b O f Italy 251 TW'sEve, and divers fuch likefa- cred triumphs. For the Prophane Showes, I law the folemn Entryes of EmbalTadors, *™t hctHS efpecially thofe of Obedience,where each Princes EmbaiTador ftrives to outvye the other, and by exceflive expences make their matters great- neis appear above that of others. Their Cavalcatasto court upon their publick audience : their reception in a publick confiitory:their audience of Leave, are all ftatcly. Then the curious Ojrere, or mutical Vrammata recited with fuch admirable art,and fct forth with fuch wonderfull changes of Scenes, that nothing can be more furprizing. Here I have (ten upo their ikges,riversfwelling-, & boats rowing upon them, waters overflowing their banks and ftage, men flying in the air ferpents crawl- ing upon the itage /'houies falling on the fuddain^ Temples and Bofcot appearing,' whole towncs, known Townes, itarting up on the fuddain with men walking in the ftreets* the fun appearing and chafing away dacknefs., fngat plumms fall upon 1 L 1 5 the »5* Tat Voyage fpe6tators heads like hail, rubans Ham in the ladies faces like lightning with a thoufand fuch like nprefen- tations.In hue, the Carneval pomps in the Greets exhibited by no- blemen with great coft and glory. «$* G»- ^ s *" or t ^ ie Government of Rome, I wtrnmetn found it divided into two parts .-the •fRomt, Government of the City, & the Go- vernment of the Church.That of ihc City is exactly performed by a Go- ^ernour(fome prelate ofgreatparts) conftituted by the Pope to watch over the City careful iy , and to render to him an account weekly of all that paffeth.This Governour liv- eth alwaies in the heart of the City, and hath befides his own guards, a Barigelio or Captain of the Sbirri or Sergeants, to keep all in order and awe, both day, and night. This Barigello hath, Argus like, a hun- dred eyes to fpy into the deportmets of all that live in Rome, ^nd^Bria- rem like, as many hands, to carry to prifon thofe that infringe the Lnwes. Hence juftice here is as exactly pcrormed, as orders are sjifcreetly given out f The prices of, all
      • r ef
Hk* City* G f Italy 253 all things are printed and affixed in publick places and (hops •■> Inns and Taverns are bound to have them fee up in their entrance, that Grangers may know the rates of all provifions, and blame none but themfelves, if they be couzened. So that its as hard a thing to be couzened here , as its hari not to be couzened in other places, And for thofe that cannot read, or fpeak the language well, Sbirri will aske of them, what they paid a meal, how much for a pound of meat , how much for a pint of fuch and fuch wine, &c. and if they find them to have been couzened either in the quantity, weight, or price , they'l right the ftranger beyond his expectation, and punifh the delinquent beyond his dtfire. The laft Jubily year I was fhown fome of the Sbirri in Pilgrims habit* on purpofe, to mingle themfelves withthj othcrpilgrims,the bctterto obferve how they were ufed or abufed by their Hoiks in Inns and Taverns, and accordingly punifh 1 them. In fine, jufticeis fo wellad- itoiiiiftred here, and imprifoning eafe$ §54 The Voyage cafes fo many, that the lalt Prince of Conde being in Rome, faidhcwon- dred much at one thing there,which was to fee fo many men go out of their houfes in the morning , and returnhome again to. dinner with-; out being imprifoned. A knife in a mans pocket, a dark Lantern, a fword worn without leave, 6cc.will fuffice to make a man be fent to prifon:& a pocket piftol found about you, or in your cloakbag, is enough i to make you be fent to the Gallies with tre tratti di eorda, that is, the ilrappada thrice : yet they mitigate fc the rigour of thefelawes to ftrangers who offend out of ignorance. ! Asforthegovermentofthechurch, &# § f that's done partly by the Pope him- tkt t bwtl felf in feveral Congregations held before him : partly by his Vicar General, a Cardinal who hath under, him a Viu~Germt f aBifhop) to help him.Ther^s fcarcea day in the week but the Pope holds one Co»grcgati5 or other, about Church affairs, in which Congregations not onely car- dinals intervene, but alfo Biflhops andDoftorsifc where all bufineffe$ are Of Italy 25^ are headed , as well as handled with great deliberation. Every : 3 weeks the Pope holds a Confifiory , where all the Cardinah.thrt are in Rome, meet his Holyncfs , as at a Grand Council , to advife. with him con- cerning the neceffary affairs of the Church. And its pretty to fee how like the motions of a well ordered watch , all bulineffes here move at once, and yet never interfere or clafh with one another. As for the Inhabitants of Rome they follow* he fortune of their Citie f* uU ' ■ I,. i en ants or and as when Rome, was but yet a new Komit J towne , the inhabitants were but three thoufand in all , faith Diony- Jlurfo when it was come to its full growth, it had three or four millions of people, in fo much that in a great plague the bills of mortality came to ten thoufand men a day, and this for . many dayes together : fo now Rome e "j e Q „] ( '£ having been fix times fackt and ruined ( as I faid above) is not the tenth part fo populous at. heretofore it was '■, and even thofe inhabitants that are now in Rome, are for the molt part originary from other parts of. Catfod. Xffi. 256 The Voyagi of Italy and Europe '•> and have been drawa to take up here either by preferments or buiinefs. The nobili- ty it felf is for the major part for- rain and fprung out of fuch families of Popes, Prinees, and Cardinals a s have been forraign before their pro- motions and preferments. The true ancient and illuftrious Roman families I found to be thefe few , Vrfini-, Colonna, Savelli, Frangepaui and fome few others. Having thu?,as painters do, taken Rome in all her poftures , I confefs it happened to me, as it did to Appelles taking the picture of Compafpe } that is, by looking fo often and fo attentively upon Rome I began to be fo far in love with it, as not only to fubfcribe to Cifliodo- rut his opinion, who affirms it to be a kind of crime Hot to live in Rome, when you can do it. Piaculi genus (ft abfentem fibi Rom*>n diu* tins facers qui in ca conftitmis pffit laribm babitare'ibut alfo to fubfcribe to our old Brittai n Kings, Cadwalla- der, Cedwalla , Coenred, Offa , In a and Butrbed-i who thought -Romt. alfo Komi a Q? Italy. 257 a-lfo the beft place to dye in. For if thole places be thought by all men, the belt places to live in, where a man may learn the moft experi- f- otn ' mental knowledge, 8c how to mzn- to i ivii „ a age great affairs -, where can a man learn more knowledg than in Rome* where all languages are fpoken, all fciences are taught, the ablefi; men of Europe meet, all the beft records are found, all wits appear as upon their true theater, all forraign Em- baffadours render themfelves, all Nuncios at their return to Kome unload themfelves of the obferva- tions they have made abroad i and where every itone almoft is a book » every ftatuea mafterjevery infcrtytion a teflon, every Ant'ich amber an Aca- ■*"* * demy ? And again, it thofe places^j^ be the belt to dye in, where all com- forts of the foul are belt had \ what place can be better to dye in than Rome? the very center and, bofome it felf of Catholick Communion j and where there is Co much devotion, 8c fo much vertue pracl'ifed,and where you have this comfort in your grave?, My jour- cey jrom JLome to '258 The Voyage grave » that you lie in a ground which hath been bathed in the blood of fo many thoufand martyrs. And thus much of Rome, in the defcribingof which, if I have beea too Prolixe^ remember that great La* dies are long in drefling:if too (hort, remember chat I only relate what I fa w there, not all that is to be Cccn there. Having thus feen Rloine^ I agreed with the Proeaccio, to carry me to Naples. Others take with them a Vetturinn ^thzt lets them have horfes, and dyets them to > I mean, defrayes a man for meat and drink and horfc hire both going, and coming, and your horfe rive d ayes at Nap les (but not your dyet there) and lets you have his horfes two dayes, to go fee Vesuvius and Pozzolo •> and all this for fourteen, or 15 crowns a man. Its true, a man is ill lodged, and badly treated in that journey, but it doth a gentleman good to be ac* quainted with hardfhip. Parting then from Rome by the Gate of &. John Lateran we patted through thefe places. Of Italy 259 Marino , a neat little town be- Mmm longing to Cardinal Cohnna. It looks like a painted town. Vtktri) famous for the birth of VtUtrl the ancdters of Auguftus Ctfar. Here's a brazen Statue ofVrban the Vllljand a neat pallace and garden of Cardinal Ginettu Its an Epifcopal town. The Tre l^herm where S.Paul was j* r< j^ met, at his rirlt coming to Rome-, by btrnt. tb$ Cbriftiaw of. Rome. A&. 28. v. Peperno where Camilla the Ams- p e ^ru^ zfin was born. FojfaNuova where S. Thomas ofJ'ff* Aquin going to the council of Lyons, m9VMt fell lick and dyed. taracina (old Anxur) the head f ara(l „ at Town of the Vdfcians , but now bare and baldj (hewing nothing but fome old mines of the haven which Ammviw Fiur here adornedi and of an old Temple. Its an Epifcopal town. Not far from hence ftood an-^% f/ *»j ciently the town AmycU, that Pj- tfragorical town, which was ruined by l6® The Voyage I Mertt. in lib. 10. Jttieid. Amy das by Serpents, becaufe none would kill therrr, Pythagoras his do&rine forbid- ding men to kill any living creature. Another time it was ruined by fi- knce '-> no man daring to fpeak of the enemies comings too many falfe a- larms having made the Magi- strates forbid under pain of death 8 that no man (hould fpeak any more cf the enemies comingyfo that when they came indeed , no man durft fpeak of it. Thus not only Philo- sophy, but.' even iilence it felf and Obedience, two noble vertues, are ^eJidh* hurtful t0 men J if me V be not ac ~ ploverl companied with difcretion. apud S. Vitrei). Fundi. From Taracina we went t& fundi to (upper, having patted through a forrcft of bay trees, and through an open gate called X?ortello y which lets men into the Kingdom of Naples. Fundi is fo called becaufe its built in a low flat. Its ancient if you be- lieve your ears, not your eyes. For it looks younger, than the other towns I had pafled through before. ■The reafon is , becaufe this town was burned fome 1 30 years ago by Car ad in O p ir-AtT 261 Caradin Barbarozza-, admiral cf the Great Turk Solyman. It was this Lt * tf ei Caradin, who of a famous Pyrat , became King of Alghrt* having perfvvaded thofeof Algiers to (Inks off the Spamjh yoke, This Caradin being upon the Mediterranean Sea , and hearing by his fpies, that Ju- lia Gonfaga ( widow of Vcfpjfian Colonna^nd (he handfomeft woman in the world) lived here in Fundi, landed his men in the night , and fentthem to catch her napping-, re- folving to make a fine prefent of her to his lewd.mafter Solyman. But fhc leaping out 01 her bed, rid a- . way in her very linnen.& efcaped Co narrowly, that had (he fiaid to put on any cloths, fhc had for ever, put " off all liberty. The Pyrats miffing of this fair Helena , failed not to make a burning "Troy of Fundi j ranfacking it and carrying away the beft of its inhabitants: fuch dangerous things are great beauties to weak towns. From Fundi we went to Msla, rhe riit upon the Vim Appia, fo called be- Atfi*.' caufe Appins Claudius a Noble Roman, 2^2 The Voyage Roman made it at his own cofr during his Confulat. This Cawfey is one of the greatefi: proofs of the Romans greatnefs and riches. For it was-five dayes journey longi begin- ning at Rowland reaching through the Kingdom of Naples to Bmn- dnfrnm. It was as broad as two carts ' might e'jfily meet upon it and pafs : it was all of great black flint {tones., each one as big as two men can carry, arid laid lb clofe together , f " f ;!!" ' that they have held together thefe Graetbo.] l ° 00 years, and ieem, as Froco- pius faith- ingenioufly, to be rather congeniti, than congefli^ born toge- f ?/?»' tner > tnan lai< * to g ctner - Tilc fre- quent pafling of horfes and mules (for fo many years J upon this cawfey , have made it both Co fmooth and Alining, that when the Sun (hines upon it , you may fee itglircer two miles of, like a fiiver highway. Arriving at M0/0, called an- ciently Fornv.S) I went to lee Ci- cero's tomb which ftands in a garden not far off. And I the more wil- lingly believe, it to be his Tomb, becaufe I de bell Goth. MoU SormU. O f Italy 26% becaufe its certain , that tufty had a Villa 'mFormiU ( which was this place) and thither he was going in his litter, when he was overtaken V(i \ t by the executioners of the triumviri m*x.L and beheaded, There are no words 1.^4. upon his Tomb > of which if you ask me the reafon , I can only tell you, that either words in profe could not fpeak , their lully being dead - , orverfes would not, out of envy, praife him, who had made profe (0 famous. Having feen this, fome of our Company and I, took a boat and four lully watermen, to row us to Cacta and back again, while the C(teta reft flayed at Mola to provide dinner. Arriving in little more than half an hour at Ca'eta , we went up to the Cattle, where we faw the Skelkton of Charles Bour- bon, once Conftable of France, but afterwards taking againft his own . King upon a difgufi, he ferved the Emperor Cbxrles the V, and was made one of his Generals, and Go- vernour of Millan. Where having borrowed money of the MiUnefi, & having ZkeBp 0' 265 T HE VOYAGI having laid a deep curfg upon >f Beiiey himCelf ( wishing he might die in in his bif- the fir ft enterprife he undertook ) tories. jf fo e paid not back the money by fuch a time, he failed in his word, but his curfedid not. For his next enterprizc was to go lack Rome : and there his curfe met him as he fcaled the walls i and being fhcjt with a musket bullet he was forced to pay his debt to nature, His body was 2o«,i CW( 'Carryed to Casta, where it (tands Body. with its cloths, boots and fpurs 01^ in a long box /freight up, with this Spanijh Fpitaph over his head , Fr'ancia mi dio la lecehe , Efpagna los y Ventura^ Roma mi dio la mutrte^ Gacta la Sepoltura. Trance gave me milk^ Spain great em- ployments gave, Rome'gave me death) and here Cad a grave. This Caftle ftanding upon a Pro- montory overlooked! the town* and thirty miles of Sea. Intheend The do- of the town, towards land fide for veu .K«<L-this Town is a pure PmhfuU., I \\w the Cloven Rock^ which Tradition here Of Italy 264 here holds to have been thus cloven at our Saviours death ; The long ftairs going down between the two mountains in the very open gafh, and rend ring you to* a neat chappel below, (hike you all the way long with a facred reverence, and are able almoft to rend alfoa itony heart in two, with the thought of our Sa- viours paflion. Upon the top of all this ?romon~ iory there is an ancient monument of Manutins PlancHs an old Roman , with a great deal of old Latin upon it ■■> bur my riding boots put mc out of all reading humour,and I was very willing to let Vlancus lye quietly in his monument above, fo I could but recover again our boat & there fit ft:!l. Of this town was the famous Cardinal Cdctcinus, of S. Thomas Aquinas his name, order, and almoit learning. This town was built by Mntu in ho- nour of his Nurfe Caeta who dyed here. Returning again to Mol.i we Clciro > s went after dinner to fee Ciceto^Grom. Grotte, and fo away. We gliano. Min- tuma 166 The Voyage We had not ridden three hours sit ierrj but we came to the Ferry of Cari- efcari- g\i ano 5 near to which I faw the fair refis of an old Amphitheater (landing alone in the fields, with the refts alfo of an AquedttttX won- dered at firft to fee an Amphitheater (landing alone , and far from any great town: but upon enquiry, I found that here had flood once a noble town called Minturna, but now fo ruined, that not one ftone of itappeareth. Indeed we are often at this fault in Italy, and look for towns in corn fields. Luna, Fopttlo- ma, Cuma, BjU , and Mint urn a cheat thus our expectations, and leave; us no monuments of them- felves , but a poor Ftiit Ilium , which though it be travellers lofs, yet its mans comfort, that towns do dye as well as he : Hence ;Rrt« 
  • hus :
Nm ind'ignemur -wort alia corpora Joi- nt '■> Cernimus exempli* oppida pjfe mor'u Having paiIed|ovcr the river in a -Ferry boat, we entred upon the meadows Of Italy q6j meadows , in whofe Fens ( called the Fens of ' Minturna) Cains Ma- rius lay hid a while, and there with his (tern looks and manly voice 3 fay- ing, dareft thou kill Cains Marius ? Co terrifyed the Have that was fent thither to kill him, that he let him efcape to his lhip,and fo into 4fri c k* plutark, He uny fpeak big that fpeaks for his life •■> and any looks become a man, when he looks to himfelf well in dangers. While we rode along thefe me a* • dows we faw before us the moun- tain of Giro, anciently called Mom MjjJicHS , famous for excellent wines -, as well as the country there about, which was called Ager Faler- tittsy Co famed by Poets tor itsfr- nam FaUmwn* Palling thus along we came at night to S. Agatbx^ and the next morning betimes we entered into Campania Fxllx, Co fumamed be- caufe of its admirable air, wonder- £f$*" full plenty of corn and wine, and pleafant profpedls on all fides , which makes an Ancient call it,Ccr- t&mm Cereris & Bacchi, the itrife Mm o£ 1st //*. 268 The Voyage i §ap»a. of Ceres and Bacchus. It was th:S Country which with it's delights, broke Hannibals army » which nei- ther (now could cool , nor Alpes flop, nor Romans vanquish , faith Seneca- Indeed the pleafantnefe of rhis Country made us a full mends for all the ill way we had had be- fore : nature having fet that fcurvy way there on purpofe that,me might like her Favorite Campania the bet- ter after it. I call this Country Na- tures Favorite, in imitation of JP/wj, who calls it, €pns gaudentis nature^ that is, a Country made by nature, when (he was in a goed humour. Its a Heathen that fpeaks , and you muft pardon him. We intended that day to have gone to Capua, to dinner, but when we came thither, we did not find it at home. For this town now called Capua is two miles diftant from the place where old Capua.(\ood, Indeed the old Capua was a town of im- portance : for it was either thefe- cond, or third in the world h and flood in competition , as Carthage c'iJ, withFWf; Nay, it demanded of O? It alt 2$y of Rome to fee ufed like a (iiter,nct like a Subject i audi ftood high up- on it,that one of the annual Confute mould alwaies refide here. But that Capua is vanifhed with its vanity j and this Capua hath no reafon to be Co proud, being famous for nothing but that action of many noble women here, who to avoid the infolencks of the French Soldiers (received into the town friendly; leapt into the river Vulturno to fave their Virginity 8c honour i from their-kwdnefs : an a&ion rather wonderful, than war- rantable. There is a Caftlc here of pretty ftrength.a good river, and an Af eh-bifhops Seat. FromC^tf we palled through dverfz, a fweet Seat of a town, and once great, till [harks theT,King of N^p/fx,almoft ruined it. Its a B (hops Seat 1 1 i 11. Here it was that Queen Jeanne of Naples ftrangled her iiusbltid Andre afro* ami was her felt not long alter, fervedfo too in the fame place. Travelling fome eight miles further we came to Naples before we could fee it. This Town M m s was Set S. ' Aug.i.z. ii merib. EccltJ. And S. Tfow».2. i.qu 64. art*$m Aver ft* Kfiphfi, Treafor. 270 The Voyage was anciently called Parthenope from one of the Syrens. Its now cal-
  • traS * e< * Neaprfv, a sew City > becaufe
Rem»- the inhabitants of Cum* haviwg , aldoinhis out of jealoufie, ruined Parthenope, CroHolog, W erefore vexed with a plague, till they had built it up again better than before. This happened about the year of the world 1449. As for Naples, its now the head ofa great Kingdom fo called. This Kingdom belonged once to the Em- peror : but after that it had been overrun by Sarazins, and freed by Pope John the X united with Albe- rico Marquis of Tofcany, it acknow- ledged the Church for its Mif- trefs, and the fir ft man that was invefted by the Pope ( Innocent the II, Ii}e.3 was Roger the Second, a Normand. Since that time , the French and the Spaniard have ftrugled hugely for this Kingdom: fometimes the one plucking it to him, tken the other. But now its under the Spaniard^ who holds it of the Pope, and for it payeth every year thepurfe of gold & the Gennet fpoken of above. This The Ki»g- dtmoj O f Italy 271 This Kingdom is of great impor- _ . unceto Spain. It makes his party tanct tQ too ftrong for Frame in Italy. Its fain. correfponds conveniently with Si- cily , and Milan , and itrengthens them both. In fine 3 it beareth up notably the interest of Spain Jin the Court of Rome: and it (queezeth.it felf now and then , into huge fumms, four millions of crowns , to fend tribute into Spain? coffers . For this Kingdom is a thoufand five hundred miles in compafs , four hundred and fifty wide. It hathin it twenty Arc'nbithops Seats i a hundred and twenty tive Bifhops s P ia ' J l . tlC \$m Sears-, a thoufand five hundred Bourgsjtwo millions of fouls: ten principalities* twenty three Vntcbiesi its thirty Marquifats > fifty four Coun-A'****' ties i and about a thoufand Baro- nies, wHereoffour hundred are an- cient. It can raite a hundred and fifty- thoufand foot, and a hundred thoufand horfe. Its ordinary fqua- dron of gallyesarebut 2©. As for the town it felf of Naples, The town if it it be the third of Italy for great- ofH*ples. nefs, it is the firft for ttrength and M m 3 neatnefs I 272 The Votage- neatnefs-, and therefore defervedly furnamed, LaGcntik, the Gentile. It hath Campania on one fide of it, and the Mediterranean Sea on the other : fo that its fed by natures heft dugs, Sea and Land. Its air was alwaies efkemed fo pure, that the great men of Rome had eitjaer their ViHas in Naples, or hard by. its well built, well paved, well fcrnifhed with exce lent provifions, well tilled with nobility, and the nobility well mounted. The chief fireet isjirada di Toledo, paved with frecftone, and flanckt with noble Pal laces and houfes. We entered, into fome of them, and others we faw which had not recovered their tmbonpoint fince they had been lick of Mazankllos difeafe: Their very looks (hewed us that their iicknels had been Cmvulfion-Fits. The chief Pallaces are thele : The ftate- ly palhce of the Viceroy, that of Gravina, Caraffa, Vrfino, Snlrnone , Toledo, &o Moft of the houfes of N.iples are made flat at top, to walk upon : a moft convenient thing to breath upon in the frefti Evenings, and OF ITALY 271 and eafie to be imitated by other countreys. I faw here alfo the feveral pub- lick places of afifemblies of the nobi- lity , according to their feveral rancks. Thefe places are like open walking places, rayPd about with high iron rails, and painted with- in. Then the Mb running a quarter of a mile into the Sea, and affording T ' je M * l9 > great refreshment to the Towns men, who walk here in the evenings in fummer, where they are fureto cool their lungs with a fwett frejeo. At the end of the Molo ftands moun^ ted the high Lanterne to direct (hips home fafe in the night i and a fine fountain of fre(h water. As for the Churches here they yield to none ill Italy. The Dome c l Hn y Sm is ancient, and therefore out of the »/'N*jpto mode a little : yet it hath a modern Chappel which is very beautiful : and is one of the fineft in Enrope, both for brazen ftatues & rich paint- ing. The Cupola was painted by the rare hand or Vemenickino.ln this ChappeL Barenitti & Bre- •victrium Rem. Vetrm n S. Ko- muctldo in his Treafor €ronelog> ni an, i<5c>4 the Aw mtwciata 274 The Voyage Ghappel is the tomb of S. Jannarim Bifnop oiBencvent, and now Patron of this townv whofe blood being conferved in a little g^afsand con- crete, melts and grows liquid when its placed near to his head , * and even bubles in the glafs.A. French no- bleman Count of la Val^ was con- verted from Calvinifme to the Ca<- tholick religion upon fight of this wonder. On the left hand of this Chappel without, lies buried Pope Innocent the IV, who ordered firff, that Cardinals mould wear red hats. The verfes upon his tomb told me this. In the Sacrifty are kept many pretious gifts of Prin- ces, and divers relicks of Saims en- chaled in gold and liiver. The Annunciata is both neat and devout: the Cupola 6c roof are weH painted & gilt. The two Infants of Bethlehem with their feveral wouds, one in the heaci, the other in the body, are fhewn here. The Holpi- tal is joining to it, and is of great reception: it maintains two thou- sand lick and decrepid in if, befides above O f Italy 275 abave 8co orphans and poor chil- dren. Near the great Hofpital {lands S> Peters Church, and before it the Altar upon which (as the Infcrip- tion faith )$. Peter (aid mafs at his firlt coming to Ntflef. The 'theatijts Church called S. Pauls , is very neat; and if youfaw S.Fauh. it with its belt hangings on, you would think it one or the neateft Churches in Italy. The roof is cu- rtoully painted and gilt. Here I faw the rich Tomb of Beaio Caetano a holy man of this orderi & the Ta- bernacle of the high Altar, both veiy rich. In the Sacnfty they have as rich ornaments as in any Church of Italy. The Jefuits Church here is the beff r ^ they have in Italy > if it be not a little Jefuits too wide for its length. In the Sa- church crifty I faw the richeir. ornaments for the altars, and the bd\ filvcr candle- sticks, that I have fcen any where elfe.Its rich in painting, fculptures, and marble. The High Altar was not yet rmifhed, but promifeth won- ders.. M m 5 The hova 2-7-6 The Voyage The Francifcans Church, called S>MarU S>Maria Nova y is very trim with its neat Chappels and Tombs, and gilt rouf* Here I Taw the tomb of Ir trecb, who commanded fo long the Hrcwc/; Forces in this Kingdom. His verme in military affairs was (b great, that his- very enemies ad- miring his worth, have caufed his body to be tranflated out of an ob- {cure place, where it lay before, in- to this Church, and tomb. I won- der they did not canfe thofc, words ©f Viroil to be put upon it. Si Tergamx dextrfi defendipqjfent tiiam hr.-c defeufafuijfmt. The Church of the Dominic jks is very, handfome too, if you do not furprife it, and take it before it be drilled. Ifawitonce in its beft at- tire, hung with a rare fuite of em- broidered hangings, which £et it out with great advantage.Ifaw alfo here the Crucifix, which fpoke to S. Jhamat of Aquin the Dodor of this order and Country, and faid 1 Rue derm- J'cripfifii Tbenu. Ifl the Sacrifty of this Church are kept in feveral coffins ( fome covered with white > ; •rtt Dp- O f Italy 277 white, Come with black velvet J the bodiesof feveral great perfons, de- pofitated here till their Tombs fhould be made : as of Alphonfo ths firft, King of Naples and ArragonioF Queen Ioanne the unfortunate: that' or an Emperor of Conjiantimple :that of Vurazzo : that of the Marquis of Vajii : with divers others. The church of the Olivet an Fathers The &- is ftately : here lies buryed Alexan- UvetanL der ah Alexandra a great antiquary ,' whofe ingenious bo©k Gmiiltum dkrum, gives light to many books by the unlhelling ofa world of an- cient cuftomes of the Romans. In' this Church alfo is the tomb of brave Marcbefe diPifiara^ furnamed ! the Thunderbolt of war. The. words upon-this Tomb are fo inge- nious, (that though I profefs not to fet down many Epitaphs in this my, voyage ) I cannot but itrive to car* iy them into other Counties. They 1 are thefe. QHi jacet hr>c gtlida fob ntartnorel Maxima tile Fifcator, belli glorh, pads bones. Nwiqmd I 2 <73 T«: Voyage Nunquid & hie pifies ceph ? Kfc/jw Ergo g#i^ .? ZJrkes-, Mtgnanimos Reges, ofpida, regna, „ Duces. Die quibus h&c cefit Fifeator retibtu * Alto Confilio-) mtrepido ccrde y alacrique marm, §hti tanium rapuerc ducem ? Duo, Nttm'wa, Mars->Mors. Vt raptrtnt quidnam compulit ? In* vidia. \ Nil nocttere ipji •> vivit mm Tama fuperjlei, ^U£ i Martem & Mortem vincih & Invidiam. The Church of S.Jobn Carbonare is considerable for it (elf,- but much " more for the (lately tomb in it-', of King Robert. In the Church of the Nunnery which ftands at the foot of the hill as you go up to the Cartbu-> fiansy I faw a moft curious Taberna- cle upon the altar, of pretious po- lifted (tones. Its one of the richeft I have feen any where, but that of florenee defcribed above. Then \ye. mounted up that wind- 1 ' in g Of Italy 279 irg hill to the Cartbufians Churchy . ; > and Monaftery called S. Martins. Monnfte- Its the molt fumptuous thing in all ry of the Europe, for a Monaftery, whether Carthttfo you regard its fituation, or its fa- ^"^ brick. Its fituated upon a high hill, under the wing of the Cattle S EIrm 7 to put Caftks in mind, that they ought to defend 8c protect religion. The whole quadrangle,or cloyfter of this monafrcry, is of, pure polifhed white marble, paved with marble fquares, and adomedround with a balufter, and white marble pillars. Thenentring into an open gallery f we hadashne a profpedr. as Europe can afford, not excepting that of Greenwich, thought by Barclay^ the Barclay. belt profpecr in Europe. For' here I h ° n r ^~ faw all Naple s under me, with the mr *"" perfect figjit of the 2 other Caftles, with the haven, the M0/0, the Arfo- nd^ the fhips, the Country round about Ktpks , Mount Vtfuv'w , Vaufilipus ; the fhips at Sea, the Promontories oi.MiJemm and Mi- fierva^hc Ifle of Caprea^with a world of ojher delightful fights. Then 1 tffo The Voyage I was led into the apartment of the Padre Vifttatore, where I faw molt neat rooms and fome good pi- dures.Then going to the Church I found it to exceed the cloy Iter which before I thought to have exceeded all other things. Its all of marble, gilding,and painting.The pavement is all of curious red & white marble fquares, as is alfo the Sacrifty. The Ghappels and pi&ures match the roof, and the pillars with their par- ticular grace?. -. The Sacrifty is abfo* lutely the richeft I ever faw. The great cupbords are of fuch a rare Mofaick woodwork inlaid into pic- tures, that itdifputes hard with the Quire of the Dominicans in Bologna, Here they (hewed me a great Cruci- fix of frlver, which had been fifteen years in making. The Remonftrance to expofe the B. Sacrament in, is made like a Sun, whofe beams arc mingled with filver and coral. The great candlefticks of maifive filver, and the great flower pots are cu- riouily wrought. Then I went to fee the three CaOlcs * Of Italy. 281 Caftles > That of S. Elmo, which is Q ^ u ^ hard by the Carbufians, was built by Elm9 Charles the V.It itands well upon its own guard by reafon of its high fi- tuation : but I doubt whether it can offend any enemy, except Naples it felf which is under it. The Caitlc Vovo, was built by William the third of Normandy, upon Cafik a rock in the Sea ■•, and from its oval Vovo. form, Its called Cafiel Vovo. There is a digue leading unto it from the Land. The Cafiel Nuovo, was built by caSfc Charles of Anjm, defigned King of Nwvj. Naples. It itands near the Molo, and level with the town and Sea, as if it could defend and of&nd both. Thefe three caftles are guarded by natural Spaniards i and well fur* nithed with great Canons,by whofe language ( which is ultima Rath Kegunii Kings laft arguments) the Neapolitans are either catechifed in- to duty, or threatened into obedi- cnce.Indeed fuch a people & town are not eafily brid!ed:fuch a wanton courfer as Njplts 3 is not to be ridden with, 282 The Voyage with fnaffleSj it hath often plunged under the King of Spain, but could never fling him quite out of the faddle, mene a gli tre Cajlelii. Then I. went to fee the markets T *" , here, 8c found them moft admirable, efpecially thofe of fruit,which Cam- pania fends hither : and were but the taxes taken off, or reafonably moderated , Naples would be the cheapeft and richeit place in the world. But the Kings officers if they fuck in Milan-) and .rleece in Sicily, they fley in Ntpkr , which ufage drove the people feme years pair, in- to fuch a defperate humor, that they « w .io47 took up arms under the comandof MazanieUo: his true name was Tho- mas Angelus Maia> a poor fifher- man without Stockings or Shoes, who for ten dayes together, fwag- gered here fo powerfully in tue head of two hundred thoufand, mu- tinous people, that when he com- manded them to burn a houfe, they did it: when he commanded them to caft into the fire, all the goods, papers,plate, beds,hangings ,6cc..of the GabeUkrti they did it without referving Of I"taly 283 ferving the leaft pretious piece to themfelves : when he commanded them to cry out : Down with the Galellf, they did it: when he put his ringer to his mouth, they were all .iilcnt again,as if this poor fiiher- ttian had been the foul that ani- mated that great body of people: It was prodigious indeed that fuch ■ a poor young man(not pafte^in wall- coat and drawers, and his fifhers cap on , mould find fuch obedience , from fuch rich and witty Citizens. But as tumultuous people make arms of every thing their fury meets with, lo they make Captains of every man that will but head them •, and as the Proverb goes, Li ftdiiime vel An- drtclides belli duzem agit. They (hewed me the houfe of this fifher- man : but the other houfes flicwd me his fury. Thoufands have not yet recovered thofe ten daies tu- mults. Thus we fee that when men are ripe for rebellion , Cromrveh's and Mazanidls are cryed up for great men: or rather when God hath a mind to punifli, flies and gnats are powerful things even againft PWqces. Here, iv-ts. Learned nun. 234 The V otage _, Here are two Academies of wits demies of 'he onc called the Ardently to (how their ardour in ftudying : the other the Qtiofi , wifely initituted as an allay to the others heat, Some of the famous men for lear- ning of this town were.,old Statins, rare Sarinazarius , Alexander ab Alexandre^ and John Eaptifi Mart- ni'. three excellent Poets, and one Antiquary. Naples hath furnished the Church with 1 8 Popes. Having thus fcen the town it felf of Naples, I was moit willing to fee the wonders of nature which are near unto it.Horfing therefore be- times one morning we went with a guide to fee Vefuv'w the burning mountain, fome feven miles diftant from Naple!. Our honeft guide had ftudyed the hiftory of this hill, and could tell how often it had broken forth into flames fincc the beginning of the world , that is, twenty times. Xipbilinus the Epito- mift of T>io relates at length one that happened under the Emperor Tittu. Butthelaft which happened m the year 163 1, he remembered very T Iht , Moun- tain Ve- fuvi*s. Qf Italy 285 very well,and related it to me as we went along, with a fad preface , of Infandum Peregrine jubes renovare doforemjbeczuk he could alfo fay, Et quorum pars magna fit'h having been an a&or in that diiorder. For he was Sou to a rich husbandman here 3 and with much ado , JEneas like, he had rtfeued his old father from the afties of Vefnvius^ which over- whelmed and buried whole Villa- ges. Here faid he, pointing to the places ltood a great vineyard one of thebeftof the Country j but now three fathom deep inafbes. Here ftood a Village full of rich husband- men and goodly houfes - , but now ruined by the (tones (hotat it from Vefuvius. Here itood once a pleafant Villa, beautyfied with curious walks, orange trees, fountains, and arbors, but Jamciniseft ubi Villa fuit. In a word, above two thoufand people were burnt, lamed, or (lifted in this eruption. Then he (hewed me the vaft (tones which overcharging theftomach of Vefuvius^ he had vo- mited up, with fuch a boaking, that Naph*. 286 The Voyage N*tpkr thought the day of Judg- ment had been at hand. Then he fhewed me a channel , where a river of fiery green matter mingled with brimlrone, allum,iron water, & falt- peeter, had run from that fpewing hill. The manner of this breaking outwasthus. The hill began firft to (moke more vehemently than be- fore. Then it flamed and calf out a cloud of aflies, which, had the wind flood toward the City, had covered all Naples^ and buried it in thofe afhes. Then it began to roar as if Madam Nature her felf had been in labour. Thunder wasbutpiftol- crack to this noife : and the mouth of a Cannon a full mile wide, mult needs give a great report- It bellow- ed & thundered again: Naples trem- bled : thegrounct fwe led\* The Sea it fclf fhivered for fear i when the hill tearing its entrals with huge violence was breught to bed of a world of vaft ftones, and a floudof Sulphurious matter which nn from the top of the mountain nto the Sea for the fpaceof three miles* All this he told me , and this Of It a lt 2 a; this hefhewed me. afterward, in a publick inferiptionupon a fair mar- ble (tone erected hard by. And all this made me but the more defirous of feeing this mountain. Wherefore fpurring on, we came foon after to the foot of the hilhwhcre leaving our horfes we began to crawl up that iteep hill for a good mile toge- ther, to the midleg in alhes. At laft, with much adoj we got to the top of the hill i and 'peeping fearfully ('remembering Pliny's ac- cident; into the great hollow from the biinckof it, found it t© belike a vaft kettle, far greater than thofe . Hell Kettles near Deflington in the see.Ea- Bifhcprick of Durham , made by f^ers chro- carthquakes. For the ori£ce of this n'uU in Kettle is a mile or two wide, and ^ f «^ Ci2 - very nigh as deep. In the bottom of it is a new little hill riling out of the hollow of the old, and fuming perpetually with a thich fmoke, as if it alfo would play cricks too in its turn. Having gazed a while at . this Chimney of heli ( for Tertullian calls JEtna and Vcfitvius^ Fnmxriola n^ s wftrni ) we came falter down than cbimtiep wej 288 The Vo yage we went up. He that is not con- tent with this my (hort defcription of the burning of this hill, let him read Julius C<efar %jcnpituj 9 who hath made a little book alone of it , called , De Vcfuviano incendio Nun- tins. Having recovered our horfes a- gain we came back to Naples h and the next morning , taking a new guide,we went to lee the wonders of Nature about Bat£ and Puzzuolo. . Horfing then again betimes in the morning we palled by the Om jtw Caftle Vovo , and loon after to
    • y to Margelino-, to fee the tomb of San-
Puzzueb nazarim the Poet, who lies buried in the Church of Santa^ Maria del Parto, which was once Sannazarius Santa- hisownhoufe, which dying he left zariw to be made a church of, under that mj * mt >mc: fo that in his Teftament he wrote it Virgwis parttt. as well as in his book : and he might as well have written upon the Frontifpice of this church as upon the Frontif- pice of his book, opera Sannazarii de Virginis partu. His Tomb hejre is adorned with marble figures and with Of Italy 289 with this 'ingenious Epitaph made of him by Cardinal Bimbo. ~Da facto cineri jlores. HiciUeMarom S'mceruf Mufii proximits, ut tumulo* His name was jacobus Sannazaritts, but he changed his name for tfeat of Sincerus at the requelt of Tontanus* who alfo changed his name too, and caufed himlelftobe called Jovlanus^ as Jovius in Elogiis virorum doftorum faith. Not far offthis place, nor far from the entrance of the Grotte of faufilipus, in the gardens of S. Swe m TV vino, ftands Virgih tomb, covered almoft over with Laurel, or Bay-^'^ trees : as if that Poets Laurel were " ' grown into a Shady bower to make a whole tomb of Laurel for the Prince of Poets. From thence we returned again into our way, and prefently came to the entrance of the grotte of Paufilipus. This moutain lying at the very back .j of Naples and rendering the paflagc to Napier extremely inconvenient for carriages, it was thought fit to cut a cart way under grouud, quite through the mountain ; fome lay it was 290 The Voyage was LuchVus, that caufed it to be thus boared : others fay , it was Cocceius Nerva. Certain it is that it is ancient, feeing Seneca makes mention of it. g£, Ending into the Grotte.of Pauftli- Grotteof pm, we found it to be about forty Fauftlipo. foot high, and broad enough for two carts laden to meet with eafe, They fay here, that it is a full mile long*>but i thought it fcarce fo much. We rid fome forty paces by the light of the wide entrance i but that va» milling, we were left in the dark a good while, till we came to the half way ,where. there hangs a burn- ing Lamp before the pi&ure of our Saviour in the B. Virgins arms. Th-; light of this Lamp was very grateful unto us =, and I am confi- dent, a Puritan himfelf, were he here,would be glad f o fee this Lamp and picture, and love them better for it ever after. AH the way of this Grotta is very even and level, but hugely dufty, as a roommuftbe, that hath not been fwept thefe fixteen hundred years. The people £>f the Country meeting here in the dark , O* It ait fcfl dark, know bow to avoid one an«  other, by r going from Naples on the right hand, and returning on. the left i that is, by keeping on the mountain fide going, and returning on the Sea fide : and this they ex- prets by crying out often \ A Is Montagna, or, a la Marina > 7» the mountain fide^or to the Seafide^to give notice whether they come, or go. Our guide underft ood the word, and he giving it unto me, and I to my next man,it ran threugh our whole Brigade^ which confifted of a dozen horlemenin all. Almoft all the way we rid in it , we (hut our eyes, having little ufe of them, and our mouths and notes too, for fear of being choked with the duft : fo that our exteriour fenfes being thus ffout up,our interiour begato work more freely>and to think of this ©dd place. My thoughts , coming newly from S znnazarius and Virgils tombes, fell prefently upon Poetry (for all this country is a Poetical country) and I began to think whether this were not Polypbemush'is den,becaufe Hemer makes it to have been near N n the 2^2 TheVotagi the Seafide^ as this is > and capable of holding great heardsof (beep as this alfo is. Sometimes I thought that it might have been here, that Jupiter was hidden fro his devour- ing Father Saturn-, who came into Italy for certain -, as alfo becaufe So- fhocles makes mention of Jupiter .Paufilipus. But at laft I concluded that this was the place where the merry'Gods and Goddeffcs, after their jovial fuppers, plaid at hide & fiekj. without being hood-winckt.By this time we began to fee the other end of the Grot a far off, by a little light which grew greater dc greater till at laft we eamc to the iflue of it. Being got out of this Cymmerian rode , we began to open our eyes again to tec. if we could tind one an others and our mouths tooto-dif- courfe upon this exotick place. Thus we rid difcourling upon this won- C*T der > tillwe came t0 ^zGrottadel Cane a new vvond&r. Arriving there we prefently had a dog ready (though for the moft part the doggs here run whining away 0? It alt 2 p5 away when they fee a troup of Grangers arrive>ndlfaw the expe- riment of that famous Oof**, which being but three yards within the fide of the hill, may be fcen without entring into it. The experiment is this. A man takes a dog alive, and holding down his head with a woodden fork to the ground, the dog begins firft to cry, and then to turn up the white of the eyes, as if he would dye. Then letting him hold up his head again , he reco» vers. And having thus, twice,' or thrice, (hewed us the experience of this infectious place, he puts down the dogs head again, and holds it down folong, till the dog feems to be dead indeed. Then taking him by the ftiff'leg, and running with him to the Lake Agnaw, fame forty paces off, he throws him into the (hallow water of this Lake, and J prefcntly he begins to recover, and to wade out. They would make us believe, that as it is the nature of tlvsGrotiz to kill, fo it is the nature of this Lake to revive dead things N n s again ■ I E«fr 294 The Voyage again. But if tie dog were dead indeed, all the vater of Agnane, though it were Aqua Vit<e, would not recover himihe is onely aftoni-' cd with the mfefiious vapour which breatheth out of this Sulphurious ground below. The peftilent na* ture of this Gntte was (hewed us plainly by alighted torch, which as long as it was held high from the ground, burnt clearly : but as it was approached by little & little, near to the ground, it grew dimmer and dimmer, till at laft it burnt blew, andbeing held clofe to the ground, it went "quite out. Then we were fhown hard by, the ftovesof §,Gemaro, which by Js&tn- a natura l fulphurious vapour ifluing ftrongly from low caufes,put a man prefently into a fweat, and are ex- cellent 1 jremedies for the Neapolitan drfeafe, called by fome -authors, Camp anus Morbus: Nature, an indul- gent mother, thinking her felf bound to afford a remedy to the diforders which fhe her felf hath enclined the Neapolitans unto. Then fetching about the hills by ,fs nan, O F ITALT 2p5 t narrow unfrequented way , wc came to the Convent of the Capucius Handing there where 8. J anuariut ^ H Cii _ was beheaded. In a little Chappel p tc ins. on the right hand as you enter iiito the Church, they mewed us the {tone upon which he was beheaded •, the blood is Hill upoji it. From hence we defcended down • into the Su!pbatarj y wheie the burn- ./ {w ^ ing Sulphur fmokes out perpetually from under ground. This Snl'pbatars is a kind of pit environed on all fides with banks, and it is abou$ 1 500 foot long and iosobroad.We rid down into it onhorfeback,and it founded hollow under our hories teet, as if we had been riding over a woodden bridge. There are divers Jpiracula, or Vents round about it, out of which the thick fmoke preffeth furioully.as out of a fumacci and makes Poets and Potters find matter enough i thofefor their F^- bles calling it, Forum Vulcani: Thefc for their Medicinal pots,whichthey make of this briroftony earth. Near to Sulphatara ftands a round pool of black thick water, N n 3 which 3$6 The Votagi which alwayes boilcthi and what Soever you throw into it , it comes out boiled indeed, but not entire jfomething or other of it be- ing always diminifhed,faith Leandro Alhtttu One putting in four eggs in a long ladle, pulled out but three again : I wonder Poets feigned not this Lake, to be that part of hell allotted to puniih ufurers, feeing it Cakes ufe for every thhag that's put into it. Defcending from Sdphatara to fuzzuolo^ we wondered to fee the very high way (moke under our Iiorfesfeet, when yet we found not them fo fiery under us : but I found the fmoakc to come out of little chinks of the dryed ground: which <hcwd us that the whplecountry was I8n fire under us. Before we came to the town, we faw the remnants of a fair Amphitheater , and Ciceros Academy, Immediatly after this we came to tMMHOlo ^ MZZH ^° ■> ^° called, either from the multitude of fprings about it >or dfe a /utfwe, from the fmell which f(iis brimltony country affords. The town Of It alt 397 town is but little, yet anciently a Bifliops Seat. Taking boat here prefently. we palled over the creek ofthe£eato Bri<e, which is three miles from hence i and. as we rowM along, I admired the wild defign QiCalig-uh who built a bridge from FhzzuoIo toBaU : Tome of the Ar- ches yet ftanding on both fides,fhow us that his folly was real; and I believe Suetonius meant this work, whenhetaxeth the infanas Jkbfirttc- time>) the mad buildings of this E/w- perour. That which contributed much to the bold attempt i was the nature of the (and of this country, which made into morter and let ^ m ^g down into the water, grows hard & vitrmim folid, even to petrify there at laft. j^, Futtolanui pulvit^ fi aquam attiglt^ faxnm eft. Reaching the other fide of the bay, and leaving ©ur boat to attend us, we rambled for an hour and a half among the Antiquities of this ruined . Paradife of BiU: for you know, Nullus in erbt locus Balis praluxh a m menis* % N n 4. Firft $ht Eli- fctn Xtttts* 298 T he Voyage Mtrtatt ^ lt ^ we wcre * e( * t0 ^ e Mereai* MSabato»diS< l b* t °> looking ftill like a ftreet with ruines of houfes on both fides. Thence we went to the EUfian Fields, which a*e much beholding to Poets for their fame : otherwife they are but a very common plot of ground without any gracemlnefs at all, except onely that if BaU were a town mil, a man might make a fine bowling ground here. Put Poets who have power- and Licence to creel Ithacwn into a kingdome 5 have tau-poeted it here, by erecting this little ipot of ground into a Para- difc. Thence we came prefe»tly to the Vifeina MirakHi , a vafi building underground, born upby40"or5o 9ifc ^"a*- great fquare pillars , log 1 50 paces, 4o wide, &: 30 high. We defcended into it by many fteps, 8c its to well walled with tione and lime on all fide^that water canot link through, And all this was onely to keepfreih water in, either for the Roman Gal- lies that ufed to lye hereabouts in thefe harbours h or elfe for the Romans, Of Italy 299 Romans gufto iwho having their cu- rious Villashexe abotits,had no mind to drink of the fprings of this bi- tuminous country. At the top of this Pifcina Mirabili, I efpied fome fpoutes of flone yet remaining, by which they ufed to let the water- from above into the vail referver. Returning again,we were mown Promontt- the Promontory of Mifenum a far^'J ew/ * off-, and the Mare IfortmM hard wmMaW9 , by.. Cent 9 c««  Then we went into the CentoCa-™<rtlU;~ mtnUefo called from a hundred little roomes that were built together like chambers within one an other, to keep ilaves in, who ferved the Gallics. Going again to ward sour boa t^ we were fhown the place where Agr ip'm a (hould have been drowned - by a falfe bottomed boat : but that failing, her fon Nero caufed her to be itabbed here. Indeed breafls that had turned their blood infomilk to give fuck to fuch a mo.nfter,could • exped nothing elfe but tobeemp* tyedof all their blood i but (lie was ddigned to this ill ufage long be- N n 5, ' fore-- 3©q The Voyage fore. For being foretold, when (he was with child of Ntro, that Ave had in her womb a fon who mould be Emperor, but withall, who mould kill her, (he cryed out : Occidai tnodb impertt : Let him kill me fo be $e but Emperor ; and (he had her wi(h. Its laid alfo that this Par- rieide (for, Nero nunquam fine pnblici faricidii pr<efatione nominanduf eft? faith Vahrius Maxlmus ) after his tnother was killed, would needs have her ript up, that hcmightfee where he had lodged nine months together: and I believe that nothing haftened more the confpiracy of the Romans againft him, than that they could now no longer endure him, who could not endure his own 'drrippi. motner * Hard by the Shoar (lands pas tomb yet the Tomb .of that unfortunate Frinceis. Then taking boat again we row'd by the ruines of Mar'w-, and Cxfars ViHas , and divers other fcraps of antiquity,and all along in the water (in a clear day) you may fee the foundations of Bji* , and fpmc Of It alt 30f- fome Arches, arid the pavement of the very nreets i all now in the Sea* Omnia fen <etas i and Time, which in all other places, is called Edax rerum , may here be called Bibax rerum ,having fipped up here a whole tOWH. Rowing on ftiljg^y the Shoar, we came to the foot oiNeros pafoace near to the ruincs of which^ ftands mounted a ftrong Caftle , built a h moderna, upon a high Hill. Leaving
  • here our boat again, we were wish-
ed to put our hands into the fand of the. very fea, which we found to burn under the cold water. ' Then we went hard by to turns cittm bathes, a great fquare place, were bstbts* anciently were written overhead in old letters, the names of the difeafes which thefe waters cured: which > letters fome Phyfitians caufed to be defaced, pretending that th'ey 'were fuperttitiouscharac^dfiiwhennidet'd they where unwilling,.men fhould be cured by any thing,but the ftrang- cnara&ers in their reaper* ' fte'ar tftele forcCaid Bathes $ are ***'"' ' fij&SS $V$M where we were M^'f %02 The Voyage into the long Grotte, and prefcntly put into a, fweat by a. ftirlng heat which met us violently in that . long entry. I followed my guide,and finding the (team to be choaking, I ftooped down low behinjd the guide , to let him break the hot air. before roe. As! thus Hooped, I found out by experience , what others find by hearfay ,' that the nearer the ground a man ftoops here, the cooler he finds himfelf. Thus , Aniens like , fetching now and then fuccour from my mother earth, I found humility toheafafc remedy. In the middle of this long narrow Entry there's a place, for thofe that fhnd in need of fweating, toftandon, ftradling witfe*, andfo fweat abundantly. They told me that at the end of this Grotta,. there are bathes of foveraign Vertue V but I being well without them, had no mind to be choaked in feekiiijz out health. Returning from hence we had a Zac,*, huge walk of it to the Lacus Aver- AvtrntviiinM-, made by the River Achlrgn* fje*. < fmegaMdio: a fit name for the river 'of O f , Italy 3-03 ©f Hell.This Lake is famous for its ftinking air, which was obferved to kill-birds as they flew over here. On the further fide of it,was the temple .of Apia. Leaving this' Lake on out tights** Grot- hand, we made to wards' the : Grotte *« of si-. of Sibylla Cum**,& called from ^ Cw ' the City Cww, which flood not far off.This \Qng.Grotta was once a &ub~ terranean pafTage to the. City of Cu- m£ t (as that of Faufdtyuf is yet to Napks)ik the Sibyl les grotte is that little dark Entry which ftrikes out of the long Groita. This leads you to the chamber of the faid Sikylle and her baths, Its a fuae retiring place for a ehaft maid, that fears as well to fee, as to be (een : "tarn timet ^^^ videre , quarrt.videri > a.n& fuch the Siby.ls were. v, who for their Virgi- nities fake, nad the gift of Prophecy, given therri, faith S^ Hierome. This Sibyllx ' Cum£i prbphecyed very particularly of our Saviours birth , and for that reafon Julixn the.A[wf~ tata burnt, ^sr prophecyes, faith 4mmimus M^rcrflwitj^ a Heathen Hittorian cf ihcfe tim ,-s» ' Momi Xhqvo, 5©4 The Voyage As we returned again from hence to our boat, we gazed upon a great mountain called Monte -Nhovs bccaufeit was eaftup in one night (on Michelmafs night anno i 536 ) by an earthqauke, which the Pnilo- fophers call Brafmnicbus r that is, when the earth is thrown up 3 and mountains are formed. Some hold this mountain to be three miles high but I think it enough to give it a full mile. It coverd ( at its riling up ) a great part of the old L*tus LucrittMf which was quite fucked /. up by this great fop. f Then taking our boat again we icturned to Vuzzuolo, and at might to Naples > where we ftaid but one day more, as well to reft our horfes, as to fee the filk (hop5, where- they make curious illk waftcoats, (lock- ings, fcarfs &c. thihi/firy ^ c mat defires t0 know the hi"/j> o/N^/aOry of Naples, let him read the book called, ll Compendia dell Hijioriadi Napoli, di Colknncclo. Having thus feen Niplef,we re- turned again towards Rome the fame way , we came, without any fikngejr •. Of Italy. 905 danger of Banditi.but not without fome trouble caufed us by the offi- cers of the Gabdla at Fundi>who mec us a quarter of a mile out of the tokfk'J town, and ftopt us upon the rode Gal'llers to fearch us, aud lee whether we of fundi* had any thing lyab le to the Gabdla •-, ox more money of the country than the Law allows men to carry out. For my part I had taken care of all this a forehand, and had nothing lyable to the greatelt rigour. But fome of our company that did not believe the rigour to be Co great, found it.For to fome they pulled off their boots, fearched their pockets, , breeches, doublets? nay even their (addles, horfes tails, and the very horfes kct. Fro one gentleman they took four piftols of gold, becauic he carried (b much more than was allowed : though with much ado we got the gentleman his money again i I have known divers that have not efcaped fo well, having been ttript in the open fields even to their flnirts &c. their watches taken from thg though they had brought them., Mbano, 306 The Votage them with them to Naples , and not bought them there. This is to learn my traveller to be inquifitive in all his journeys I of the Laws of the Country where he travelleth, eipecially fuch obvious ones as concern publick paffages, bridges, ferries, bearing of arms, and the likei the knowledge of which cuft- oms will make him avoid many inconveniences , which I have known others fall into. In an other voyage to Napier, in our return-to Rome sve made little excurfions,to take in fome places a- bout Rome, which we had not fecn before, as A'bmo, Caftel Gmiulfa^ Frefcati and livjli, which lay| almoit in our way. RiGng therefore betimes at Vdctri we crofTed over the hills, and came to Albano, ( anciently cal- led Longo Alba ) and now one of the feven Biuhops Seats about Rome^ which are given to the elde/t Bifhop Cardinals, that they may be at hand alwayes, and ready to afiilt thcPopeinhis affairs oi importance. The. OfItalt 507 The others are Porto-, Ofiia^Frefiatl, Tiv9lhPrenefte>Velctri. hi Albany I faw nothing of moment but an old Church, and fomeold houfes:yet feeing it ftands in Co goad an air, I wonder the great men of Rome have n«t built houfes here,where the wine is fo exquifitly good. Indeed this wine makes this town be' much- taken notice of by all Grangers, as beiag the beft wine that's c.onftantly drunk in Rome. ffJ . Hard by At bam ftands Caftil ^inlfa Gandulfo, the Popes country houfe infummer.lt ftands verypleafantly having on one fide of it a Lake and ■ woods, and on the other the €ampa* nla of Rome and the City it felf in view, I ftcpt into this Caftle, but found nothing but bare walls, it being unfurnifhed. From hence we went to Frefeati called anciently e XufcuJum- This is abfolutely one of the fweeteft places in Europe. The town is but little } but round about it, efpecially on the hill fide, there are fo many cu- rious ViUm > PallaceSi Gardens, Fountains? Shady walkj? and Jlmmcr delights. HrefaitL Aldo- travdiuit 3©8 The Voyage delight sffozt I wonder not if Princes, Cardinals, and other great perfons retire hither in fummer- In a word, here Cato was bom, here Lucullm delighted himfcl 1 ", and Cicero Itudied and wrote his Tttijmtans quettions. The firft place we went to fee here, was the Villa Aldobrandina. This Villa isalfo called, the Belvedere of M«lv7d7u Fre/c«»,bccaufe it ftands fo pleafant- ly ■> having the Campania of Rome, and Rome it felf in light on one fidei and on the other , the hill fide all covered with Laurel trees, curious fountains, cafeatas, and other de* lightfome water works, which afford' here a cool feafon even in the months oi July and Juguft. The variety of thefe waterworks are fo many and fo curious, that I cannot but defcribe them* FiriVthcn, the TZtcCaftat* pre- ftnts it felt, .md its made thus. At the.turningof a vaftcock^i he water ( which is brought through a great hill, from a fource five rsiles off J fpouts out of the top of t*>o high winding pillars of ftone, which ftand mounted upon the head of a high pahr 2&f €(tf- tata* O f iT/LY gOf pair ©f open flairs, and then falling down upon the fame pillars again, it follows the winding bent of them cut into Channels and little gutters, I and fo warbles about thefe pillars vifibly till it arrive at the foot of i them. There finding iflue, it falls 1 upon the forefaid (fairs and covers them all with a thin gliding dream ,
which makes an open itaircafe of
water. Befides, this water fets a number of little fountains on work, which itand on either fide of thefe flairs, and defcends by degrees with them: fo that in "a moment the whole hill fide is fpouting out wa* I ter,and filling the air with afweet J murmur, 2. Then the Gardiner turning I an othet cock above, gives at once, fuch ftore of wind and water to the ' great Girandnla below I he ftairS in ^ fi r I thegrotteof Atlas, that it imiiateth ra „j [ at \ perfectly Thunder, Hail, Rain and Mift. 3. By this time, the great ftatue
of the Centaure with a hunters horn TA<?Cr«,
I at his mouth, windeth it duly, and in perfect mcafure. 4, Van; P*». 310 The Voyage 4. Pan al Co playes on his mouth- organ tuneably. 5. whilcft the Lyon and the Leo- Tfoljoapwd fighting together fpit anger- atid the ]y m one anothcrs faces, though all Leopard. p Z £ s j n co y blood, bjcaufe in cold water. 6. Thefe waters alfo afford innu- merable &inavoidable wetting pla- ces j as thefalfe fteps in the ftairs: the wetting place behind Pan : the other wetting place behind the Centaurejand the little underground fpoutson all fides. The Hal 7* Then the Hall of Apollo is •fJfollQ. opened , where he fitting upon Mount Farnaffus., and the nine Mufes under him in a circle, with feveral wind Instruments in their hands, ftrike up altogether melo- diouflyi whileft an untouched organ underneath the hill, playes a fofc ground to the Mufes Inftruments. 8. Daring this melody, a little round hole in the fnidft of the room bloweth out frona below fuch a cool and itiff wind,' that bears up a little h©How ball of copper, a yard from Of Italy 511 from the ground. Over the door is is this diftich. Hue ego migrjvi Mufis comliaius A- poh. Hie Delphi, Ihe Helicon, hie mihi ' Velos erit. Then being led to fee this hydrau- the water lick organ,and to view what fingers Organ, art had lent unto water i I found the Organ to be made thus. Firft, the Pipes are like other organ pipes of lead, and fet in a dole frame as the manner is, with flops, and touches to them.Clofe to thefe flops the force of water turns a wheel , made like a great Drum, and as long as the organ. This wheel hath in it, here and there, divers pieces of brafs, about the thicknels of a half Crown piece, and juftas broad as the flops of the organ. Thefe brafs pieces flicking out juft fo far , as to reach the flops in their tur- ning about , and to prefs them down as the organiils fingers do, and being placed here, and there, in that mufical diflance, as to flrike their note in tune as they turn about 312 TheVoyag* about leifurely, they all together compofe a perfed: and fweet har- mony '■> the wind pipe of this room ( mentioned even now ) ferveth fufficiently for bellows to his organ, as well as to the wind inftruments of the Mufei and all is caufed by force of water. But as we were ta- ken with thefe waterworks, which Aterrible m ake this organ play in tune, we turning were fuddenly overtaken with an flw. other water work, which playing terribly upon us put us quite out of tune : fo feldom doth wind come without water. Having feen this garden and Pal- viUaLu- ' acei we went to the Villa of Prince dwtfi*. Ludovifio which is hard by. The houfeis but little, but the garden is both large and adorned with ftore of waterworks: fothat if the gar- dener befriend you not, you cannot cfcape without being foundly wet. One thing I observed in this Pallace here, that the curtains of the beds are wrought with little holes of needle work, that the air may enter by them , but not the gnats. From Of Ita;t ^ij From hence we went to the Villa of Prince Burghefe called Monte- Man»e- dragone, from the Dragon in his^f*"^ arms. It ftands a mile and a half from the Belvedere, and the way to it is through curious walks of Laurel trees. The houfeis flately, and capable of lodging a King with his whole Court. The chambers are neat and fit for bjthfeafons, winter and Summer. I faw divers good ■pictures in them. The latf Supper is of Alberto T>ureos hand, and huge- 1 y efteemed. The ftory of Polyphe- mus is of the hand or Lznfranco. But that which pleafed me belt, was the hall below, full ofthetrue pi&ures of famous men, both for learning and arms. Its an excellent fchool where a man may learn much true skill in Phyfiognomy, St fee how worthies looked. This hall lets you out into the little neat garden where you rind waterworks, wetting fports, and a pretty Gi- randola. Having thus feen Frefcaii, we went to tivoli fortiej fifteen miles -*/W/.- off. The CaJ- tattt. 514 The Voyage off. This is an ancient town, (land- ing upon a hill fome fifteen miles diftant from Rome, and in fight of QUfyhur'^' ^ was anciently called 'IjW, and held by the Romans for a de- licious place. We faw here the old temple and thehoufeof SibyllaTy- burtina. Then we faw the Cafcata-, much admired here by thofe that never were in Smjferland^ or at Term. This here is made by the River Anio, which falls fuddenly down a ftony rock, and foamts, for anger to fee its bed grown too fhort for it. Indeed it makes fuch a mur- { muring complaint againft nature to
the Hones below, that it almonV
' deafs, like the Catadonfs of Nilm^ all its neighbors. Thence we went to the Villa of Cardinal VEfte- Its fiandshigh and overlooks the Camvanu of Rome. But the gardens of this Villa is that 3 which is here molt looked after. They lye upon the fide of a hill , and are placed in four rows of gardens, with four degrees in the defcent, all fumilhed with Cajcatas , Grottas 5 and other admirable , VeSa Of It alt 3j£ admirable waterworks, the water is let in hither from the river Anis* which runs behind this hill. For they have tapt the very hill, and bored the rock quite through to th«  river > fo that the gardener here by turning a great cock can let in as much water as fills the fountains t the Cafcatafi the Grottas, the Gi- r-andola, and the other rare water- works.Hence is made the great foun* tain of Ltda* the flairs of water, the long walk of 2 hudred paces,fetali along with little ftone fountains and bafins 5 purling in your ears,8c call- ing out little tets of water as yon walk along them. And here you (hall fee as rare things for fight & delight as the world can afford in this kind. Here a perfect reprefentation of old Home in a perfpecT:ive:where you fee theCapitol) the Tmtheon., the chief triumphal archu, the Circos^ Theaters* ObtUfquet^Aaufokd!, & even Tybw it fell: here curious groves of trees making a green fpring in the midft of winter : here cool Grottas and fountains, 'making a cold winter i* the midft of Sumer: Here falfe birds Q • chirp*. gi6 TheVoyage chirping upon true trees, every one according to his true nature j and all of them chattering at once at the fight of a falfe owl appearing and howling in a free.Here curious Grot-
  • 4j-,efpecially the Grottc of nature ,
adorned with Nymphs, {hells, fta- tues, &c unavoydable wetting places, & organs playing without any man touching them: there a fearful Gi- randola of the Dragons, thundering as if they would fet heaven on fire with cold water,8c pelt Jupiter from thence with hail ftones.But I wrong thefe things which are rather to be feen than defcribed : (k my traveller will wrong himfelf much, if he ftay not here three or fourdaies,to view ntunitamentt thefe wonders of art, Having feen thefe famous places,we returned to Rome again > where we faw its chief rarities over, and over again*, for Romam juvat ufq, videreSc all men that have feen Rome only once defire to fee it again:Hence the Romans taking lieve of a ftranger departing from Rome, after his firlt voyage, fay jetting to him, a Ri- vedir Of Italy ^ X y vedercih that is, Farewel till T fee you again j knowing that every man who hath feen Rome but once, will defire to return again; -For my part,I confefs I was of this feritiment in my firft journeys but now hating fecn it five feveral times, I took a long lieve of it, and began to think of returning homeward by the way of Loreto, and Venice. And that we nry/it be fure to be at Venice at the great folemnity of the Afcmfion, we kfc Rome the firft week after Eafter. We fet out of Rome by the Porta del Populo, all along the via Flaminia, which reached as far alcnoft on this fide of Rome, as the Via Aftis did on via Jk : the other ? that is from Rome to Ri- m'mfa, mbii.lts called Flaminia becaufe the Conful Fiamin'w made it by his foul- diers in time of peace , left they fhould grow idle , and have their strength to feek when the war fliould break out. The reft of the way from Rimini to Bologna , was paved by Mmilius Lepidlts the Col- Icgue of Flaminius-t and from him called Via JEmiti-i. O © is This fsnte tjber 318 The Voyagi This Via Flaminia led us fir ft to Tonte Molo ( Tons Milvius ) a good mile diftant from the gates of Rome^ where Conftantin the great overcae Maxentiuf the tyrant, and drove him and his men into the river. Here it was I faw Tyber firft i and I wondered to find it fuch a (mall ri- ver , which Poets with their hyper- bolical ink had made fwcll into a, ri- ver of the nrft rate. £*0 Following on the way, we palfed Kami. \ by Cafiel Nuavo, -Chita Cajletlana Vtricoli-> and fo to Narni: fo called from the river Nar* It was anciently called NequinttM ( wicked town ) becaufe of the inhabitants, who be- ing preffed with hunger in a Siege xefolved to kill one another rather than fall alive into the hands of their enemies. They began with their children, fifters, mothers, wives,and at laftfell upon oneanothen leaving the enemies nothing to triumph over but bare walls and allies. This town is an ancient Bilhops feat, and S.Juvenalii ( whofe body lyethin a neat low chappel in the homo ) was the Of It alt ^9 ^fie firft Bifhop of it. A little out of the town are feen high arches be- longing anciently to an Aquedudr. From hence we went to Terni a j. • Bifliops Seat too. It was called an- ciently /tf/e)\*7»/7tf,bec3ufe of a world of little brooks here. This town ftands in a moft pleafant foyl, and is famous for being the birth place of Cornelius Tacitus the great Hifto- rian. Arriving here betimes we went four miles ofTto fee the famous Cafcata, in the mountains , which far excells that of Tivoli. From terni we went to Spoleto. spoltte, This is a neat town, which giveth denomination to the Dutchy of £po- Uto. Anciently the country here- about was called Vmbria, but in aftcrt'imes it was called, the Dutchy of Spoleto, upon this occafion. The Emperor JujHn having called Narfes ( the great General) out of Italy, he Tent Longinus with the power and title of Exarch, in his place. This Longinus fettled himfelf in Ravenna: *i and governed the reft of Italy by his Captains & Officers called Duces, or Oo 3 Dukes 320 The Voyage Dukes. Hence Rome loft her Confute* (Narfes and Bafilius being the two Haft Confuls) and was governed by a Dwke too, as well as Spoleto. This
  • town hath been famous anciently,
for holding out againft. Hannibal? even fhen when he had newly over- come the Romans at the Lake Tbra- fitneno near Perugia '■> in which Siege «f Spoleto, happened that, famous prodigy ( which I may call in a manner, a Metaphyfical tranfmuta- thn , rather than a metamorphofis ) mentioned by Leandro Alberti,~w\\o - quotes Livy for it j of a man in Spoleto changed into a woma in the time of tihc Siege. Surely it was fame notable toward whom. nature diia vowing, degraded him of his breeches. Hence I remember that Plato faith, ab- jeciori.armorum maxims conveniret , Vlato It. ut in - W#/zVrem ex Viro tranjlatufy fie %2-deLe.pttniatur : a mantbat ca(lf an>ay bis gib. arms in a battle, cugbt to he pu- ni/hedy by being changed from a man into a. woman. Tl>is tpwn of Spoleto ~?gjjj H gives the name- to the pleafant Val- ley of Spoleto, which lies near ir. Its above rw. Qf Italy ^ 321 above thirty miles in compafs, fur- rounded on all fides with hills, and thofe hills are clad with many fine towns : people willingly dwelling here where theairand theearth,our chiefeft nurfes, are fo purely good . From Sfoleto we went to Foligm (Fulignum in Latin) famous for Con- feBioners. Not far from hence ftands Aflrfwm. famous for S. Fr*»car, foun- Jjjtf.wn. der of the Yrancifcan ordettthe con- vent here is irately ,and much viiited by devout Pilgrims : And Mantefaleo Moaf famous for the miraculous heart oV a B. Clara. From F0%«i,climbing up the Apn* T Q Umim t mw,we came to Tolentino famous fot the Tomb and Relicks of S. Nicola* Jolentinas. Of this tfown was Pfei/e/- pbut a learned & noble Knight, who deflrous of potfeffing the Greeek tongue in perfections was not only content to go 'into Greece in perfo,& there vifit the ruines of Athens^ and the tombs of the ancient Philofo- phersibut brought thece with him a grecian Lady, whom he had marry- - ed at Conjhmuepk, by whofe dayly conver- £32 T Hi Voyage converfatio he might learn the pure accent of the Gretk^tengtte. And this he did in fuch perfection,that he tri- umphed over the Grecians them- felves in their own Mguage.Witnefs thatdifpute w ch he had with Tirnz- thtm a Grecian-, about the force and accent of a Grte}^ word, where both of them growing hot, and betting at laft their beards, which they both wore then long, Wilelphus won the others beard \ and caufed it to be fhaved oflfimmediately, 8c kept it in his family as a Tropbeyy. though the poor Grecian^ would have redeemed it with a confiderable Sum of mo- ney. Indeed they deferved both to loofe their beards, that could be fo hot about fuch a hairs matter, as the accent of a word. The ftatue of thi* notable (haver, victorious Pbilelpbtts, I faw here in the town houfe, From Solent ino we went to Mace- rata* neat town of la Marca ) and Uttanatt pooling through Kecanata-, another handfome town of the fame coun- Lfirtto* tjy^ W e came betimc to Loreto. Rcfolving but to ftay here one day , WG Maura ft*. O f Italy 323 we put out all our time to ufc prefet- ly 3 and fpent thataftemoon 5 &the next day, in viewing exactly this fa - cred place which is To much frequet- cd by the devout Pilgrims of all Chrifiendom. This place at firft was nothing but a plain high waybill. the Chamber of our bleifed Lady (in which the Angel annouced unto her rhemyfteryof theincamatio of our Saviour in her womb) wastrarifla- ted thither miraculoufly by thehads of Angels, about the year 1294? when Infidels & Turks overfpread- ing the holy land would otherwifc have piofantd that holy place, which even from the Apoftles time had been turned into a Chappel.For my part, though this be no Article of faith, yet when I remember what was {aid in this chamber by the An- gel to our Lady,to wit, nonejl im^JJi-: bi'e apud Vetfm omm Vtrhum, nothing is impoflible to God, I eaiily believe that he who placed this great world it felf in a place where there was no? thing before,can eaiily place a houfe there where there was no houfe be-? Co f) fore* 3?4' ^ HE Voyage forei and that he who makes an Angel wheel the -primum mobile, and. the vaft machins of the heavenly orbs,quite round in four and twenty hours,may ealily make Angels tranf- late this little chamber of our Lady from one part of the world to ano- ther. Now that it was fo tranflated de fatto, both ancient records, folid See fur- depofitions.conitant tradition,& the fefinmhhbdid of all, almoft 5 of the Catholick h f°h> f ^" nces of £«ro|peCwho have fent rich
  • »flimo. P re ^ eI)ts hither ;do teftifie. Befides, I
'can fay this,that the walls are of fuch a ttone as is not ufed in any houfe in all the Country about ; a great pre- emption, that this wall is exonck. Again, the holy houfe here having no foundation in the ground (as we fee plainly ) it is not credible that it was built here by men^ who would have given fome little foundation at leaft to walls of that thicknefs, and to a houfe of that bignefs, efpe- cially ftanding alone in the fields, as it did atfirft v and expofedtoall weather. Add further, that the ve- ry old painting which is feen upon part of the wall on the infide,(hew- eth cththe high antiquity of this houfe. In fine, the whole country wduld have given the lye to this tradition at tirft, or as foon as men had begun to cry it up for a houfe brought thi- ther miraculoufiy. Now, as for the holy houfe it felf, x^ ^ it ftands in themidft of a great houfe if church, which hath been built over l>9M9. it in latter times,for the better cove- niency of the peoples devotion, and the church fervice:& round about it more immediately there hath been built a decoration of white marble, which ftands half a foot diftant from the holy houfe that men may fee it was not intended fo much for a prop ,as for a decoration to it, as alio to keep it from the hands of devout pilgrims who otherwife would have made no fcruple to have been nib- ling at tht ftones of the walls here.&i To in time have much defaced the holy houfe, with their pious theft?, This decoration is fet round with 2 rows of ftatues of white marble cut by the rareft workmen of . It aly, in thofe tim^, to wit, 'S-fitfovinh B*n- dineffi, SanGallo, Moxte Lip* and others, . The Voyage Others* The lower row of thefe fta- Cues exprefieth the figures of tire an- cient Prophets : and the other row above exprefTeth the ftatues of the Sybils, who prophecyed among the Gentiles,& heathens of our Saviours birth of a Virgin vand his paffiom as you may read at large in Lattannusi As for the matter and form of this honfe-> I* found it to be of a hard red (lone, like brick, but fer harder and bigger than our brick : the form fomewhat fquare about the bignefs of a reafonable lodging chamber. Theres but one window in it \. and anciently there was but one door : but now there {are three ;, one at either fide and one behind, the altar, for the Chaplains that have care of the lights and lamps which are.ai- waies burning here, Towards the upper end of the houfe there is an Altar, where the Holy facrificc of mafs is offered from four in the morning until one in. the after- noon. This Altar is of filver 3 and was ©yen by Cofmujll, GreatDuke of f S'rALY 337 Florence. Before it hangs a Lamp of gold as great as two men could car- ry. It was the gift and Vowe of the Senate of Venice. in a plague time. On either fide of the walls, are fa- ttened two great Candleiticks of pure gold} made like Cornucopias and neatly wrought ;they were the gift of the great Qutchefs of Florence Magdalen a d* Aufiria 9 as her armes upon them told me. OnthcGof- pellideof the Altar, there's an old cupbord within the wail, in which are yet kept fome little earthen difhes, which were brought hither with the houfe, and ..therefore tradi- tion holds them to have been our Saviours plate, Scour Ladyes velTcls. now this cupbord is adorned with a door of filver given (if I remember well ) by. a Duke. of Parma. In' the end of the Holy houfe, there is a window, where it is imagined the Angel entered when he came, Em- bailador to the Virgin Mary c5cern- ing the great buiinefs of the incarna- tion of his Lord & matter. This win- dow is now cheeked and enriched with 338 The Voyage with filver. Round about above hag filver Lampes ■■> and on the fides of the walls there remains yet fome very old painting wherewith this Chamber was painted when it was firlt confecrated into a Chappel in the primitive times. In the very bottom of this chamber, they (hew- ed me, by a lighted candle, how that it hath no foundation in the ground i but ftands here juft as if it had been let down from the ayre , and fet upon the plain ground. Clofe behind the Altar runns quite crofs the Chappel, a great iron grate, through which you fee the Statue of Cedar of our blefledLady, with her fon in her armes. Its laid to have been made by S. Lu\e , and was brought hither together with the Chappel, or Holy houfe. It ftands up high in the Very farther end of the Chappel. Itsaboutfour foot high, and ador- ned with a particular kind of Vail hung before it, looking fomething like a womans garment. TJiey call thefe Qe Italy. ^ ihefe Vailes here, VejU y and they are of divers colours and fluffs i but all rich and glittering j witfiefs that which I faw . in the T'reajury, which was given by the Infanta ffa- betis of Flanders , which is valued at forty thoufand crownes. Its fet thick with fix rowes of diamonds down before, to the number of three thoufand -, an4 its all wrought over with a kind : of embroidery of little pearl fet, thick every where within the flowers with great • round pearl , to the number , of twenty thoufand pearles in all,. Upon the heads of our Saviour and our Lady in that Statue , are fet two rich crownes Cclpfe royal crownes) ofcIiamondSj given by the Queen of France Anne d\ Auftricbe. Before the breaft of this f-ttatue hangs a Royal Tofone , or Fliece , of rich Jewels, given by a Prince oi'fran- fylvsnia : a Collar of Rubies, pearls, &diamonds,and a rich crofs hang- ing at it, all given by Cardinal Sfondratl. Round about the Niche ^ in which this" Statue ftands, there goes 2*0 The Voyage goes a clofe row of pretious (tones of feveral forts and Luftres , but all great, both in bulk, in Value, and in number \ berng feventy one in all, and all together com- pofing a rich Iris of feveral co- lours. Between this Statue of our Lady and the Iron Grate, hang a row of Lampes , ( about twelve in all J ot pure gold, and all as big as a mans head i one whereof exeeeds the reft in carious workman(hip :•, and it was the gift of Sigifmond King of Tolonia. All the reft of the Chappel,where thofe Lampes hang, isloaden with the rich Vowesand Pxefents of great Princes. Thefe I yet remember : to wit, The image in filverofthe eldeft Son oi Fer- dinand the IIIEmperor with a chain of diamonds about it. An Angel of filver holding out, and as it were, prefenting to our. Lady a child of gold in (wathing bands upona fil- ver cufhion. It was the gitt of theforefaid Queen of France being brought to bed of the Dolphin^ now Lewis the XlIII.The picture of this Of1 t aly 541 this Prince of Conde in filvcr knee- ling, a vowe of his mother when he went firft to war. The Bujh of S. Barbara in filvcr, fct with jewels* the gift of an Archduke oiAtftria. An other Bujio of S. Gi- rime, fet with Jewels alio i a gift of a Queen of Bohemia. The Statue of S. hadiflm in filver > the gift of Ladijljus the IV. King oiPolonia. A fine kneeling ftool,or peW,of filver given by Cardinal Colonna-, with a world of other filver prefents wherewith this place is filled. In fine I faw there the very chimney which was anciently in this chamber v its under the ftatue ©four Lady and now adorned with filver. Having feen the Holy Houfe, or™ 2 '"/** Chappel, we were led the next™ morning into the 'treafury, where many other rich prefents are kept. This I'reafnry is a large room 40 paces long & about 15 wide, like a loBg Chappel vaulted and painted over head. On the left hand of this ro©m, ftand great cupbords, which. opening above, have, lktle i nets, 342 The Voyage nets of fhong wyar before them , which let in eyes to behold, but keep of hands from touching the ineftimable Treafare contained with- in them, Some of thefe prefents wers given by Popes, fome by Kings, Queens, Princes, Cardinals, Generals, Ladyes, and noblemen o£ feveral Nations. In one cupbord they fhew'd us a whole fervice for the Altar, that is, Crucifix, Can- dlefticks 5 Cruets, Bafin & Eure, and thefoot of the Chalice, allofAm«  ber. In an other, fuch a whole fer» vice , of Agate. An other fuch fervice all of lapis Luzuli , given by Count Olivam. An other all of coral given by the Archduke Leopold. Iu another, fuch a fervice in chryftal. In an other fuch a fervice of filver, with flower pots neatly wrought, given by Don Ibadzo Barberino pre- fettof Rome. In an other, a (lately Crucifix of Ebuiy adorned w th many curious pictures in miniature, given by Pope Clement the VII I. In an! other,the Spread Eagle of diamonds,! the gift of Mary Queen of Hungary.] Two! Of Italy 345 [Two crowns of gold enriched with Jpearhthe gift of a Queen of Polognia* [A crown of gold Cet with great Ru- jbies of extraordinary fizej the gift of a Dutchefs of Nevers.ln an other, the Crown and Scepter of gold en- jamelled, given by Cbrifiina Queen of Swede at her firft coming 'into \Italy, In an other the enamel- led Pigeon with a rich jewel in its breait, the gift of the Prince Lu- ! dovifto. The heart enriched with dia- monds, with a great Emeraud'm the middle of it,of an exceflive bignefs, the gift of Henry III. of France at his return out of fdognia. hi an other, the rich, enamelled three cor- ner'd jewel, wftKthe picture of the BlefTed Virgin in the middle of it i the prefent of two Bohemian Counts & a Gentleman, who being thrown out of a window in Prague by the Cahiniftsy and recommend- ing them (elves to Gods prote* clion and our Ladies interceffion , fell down all three gently without the leaft hurt. Their names were Count Mat 'tinitz. Count Slavata-, and 544 The Voyage a Gentleman that was Secretary to Cwnt Slavata, who being thrown out the Lift, and falling upon the Count his m after, cryed him mer- cy for hisrudenefs in falling upon him s a great argumeat that they were little hurt, when they could comp'enient with one an other. There are now three pillars before thathoufein Prague,, out of which thefe three men were thrown. In an other cupbord I. faw fevenl great chaines of gold,given by great men } andfome of thefe by gieat Generals. In an other , a great Heart of gold i as, big as both a mans hands , enamelled with blew, and fet on the outfideofit with thefe words in pretty big Dia- monds, JESUS, MARIA and within it are the pi&ures of the bleffed Virgin on one fide i and of the Queen of England Henrietta Maria on the other » the Heart opening it felf into two leaves. In another, a neat little heart alfoof gold enamelled, and Cct with jew- els j the prefent of Madam Cbri- ji'ma Of Italt g45 ftina Dutchefsof Savoy , and fitter to the Forefaid Queen of England, with her own and her fons picture in it. In an other the picture of our bleiTed Lady with her Ton J E- S U S in her armts, cut in a great pearl and fet in gold. In another cupbord, I faw a picture of our &. Lady wrought curioufly in Indian Feathers or feveral colours, and cut ihort as plufh, which picture chang- eth colours as often as you change its (ituation, or your own pof- ture. In an other, a great c#(?e- dia of chryftal given by Cknftina of Tufcany. In an other, acujtodia of Lapis Lazuli.hi an other a Diamond valued at twelve thoufand crowues, the gift of the Prince «f Oria in Genua. An other of almoft equal price given by a German Prince. In an other a curious book of gold covered with Diamonds with the leaves of gold, but rarely painted in miniature, the gift or a Duke of Bavaria. In an other, the Samari- tans Well of gold , with pictures of our Saviour, and the Samaritan woman ^y The Voyage woman in gold alfo > the prefent of Cardinal Brancaccio. In divers other cupbordsl faw a world of Jewels of all forts,which confound- ed my memory as well as dazled my eyes. In other great cupbords, they (hewed me excellent Church ornaments of moft rich fluffs em- broidered with filver and gold , but one there was ( to wit a whole compleat fuit for the Altar, Prielt, Deacon, and Subdeacon)fo thick covered with an embroidery of pearl, and thofe no little ones, that I could not perceive the ground of the ftufT for pearl all thefe were the prefent of Cathe- rine ZomoUky wife of the Cbancelor of Tolonh&nd they are valued at a hun- dred and thirty thoufand crownes. I know not whether this fuit of Church ornaments, or that describ- ed above in the Popes Sacritiy, be the richer. On the other fide of this room, are great windowes, betwixt every one of which, are fet upon long tables, diversjgreat townes fo pre- cifely Of Italy 34,6 cifely exprefTed in filver , with their walls,ramparts, Churches;(tee- ples, houfes, ftreets, windmills, &c. .that whofoever had once feen thefc [townes , would eafity know them (again in their pictures here: they ■were all vowes and gifts, and all ingenious German work, as well as ■ German townee This is all I can remember,though ■not half I faw in this Treafury : and having thanked the civil Pne(t that (hewed us this fine place, we went out again into the great -Church j where 1 obferved upon I the great pillars that make the lies of this Church, the hi (lory of the Holy Houfe engraven in (tone, or I written in parchment in a fair text-
hand, in twelve or thirteen feveral
languages, for the ufe of the Pil- grims who flock hither from all , countries. Going out of, the Church I faw before the Church door the (fotue in brafs of Sixtus ghtintui'.znd a (lately Fountain. From hence we went to (eethc Cella* 34$ The Voyage Cellar of the Holy Houfe which fur- niftieth with wine, not onely the Governors houfe, the Canons 8c the Church meiijthe Colledgeof the Pe- mtentiaries-, the Convent of the Ca- pucins-, the Seminarifts-, the Hofpital and all thofe that belong to the Church any way : but alto mrni flieth all Pilgrims,yea even allPrinces,car- dinals,Bifhops,embaiTadors,6cgreat- men of known quality with wine, as long as they ftay here upon devo- tion. For this reafon there belong large revenues to this Church, and this Cellar is abfolutely the bed I fa w in Italy. The veffels are hugely great, and not to be removed from hence. They have away to take out a piece of their broad tides , and fo make them clean. They are all hooped with iron , and' fome of them are fo contrived , that they can draw three feveral forts of wine, out of oneVefTd, and by the fame tap. The expe- rience is pretty, but the wine is bet- ter. Now whether thefe Vcffels be too many, or the revenues of the Holy Of Italy 34* Holy Houfe too great,you may eaflly conje&ure, when fo many/perfons are fed dayly , as I mentioned a- bove, and fo many thoufand pil- j grims pafs fo frequently that way, i Tar/e/ww^'writeSjthat betwe£ eafte* * Th Ik and Whitfuntide, there have flock* bft-ofLt* ed thither, fometimes five, {bme-"' tf/, *» times Six hundred thoufand comu- nicants •, and in two dayes fpac« in September (about the Feaft of the Nativity of our Lady)there have ap- peared trvo hundred thoufand commie- mcmtf>moi\. of which wetepHgrimr* Having refreftied our {elves in2 r j& this Cellar, we went to the Apo- iijj ■ j thecaries fhop belonging to the Holy Houfe alfo, and furnifhing phyiick to fick pilgrims for nothing. There we faw thofe famous pots which make even phyGck it {elf look fweetly^ and draw all curious Grang- ers to Vifit them.- For round about a great inner fhop , ftand pots ofa great fee painted by Ra- phael Vrbin's own hand, and there- fore judged by Virtuofi to be of great VaJu:. Witncfs thole four onely , V p ©» A*t(9na, ^50 TheVoyage on which are painted the four Evan- geliftsjot the which were offered by a French EmbafTador in his Kings name, four pots of gold of the fame bignefs, and wete refufed. Brave Raphael^ whofe onely touch of a finger could , Midas like, turn gaily pots into gold. But as Vhidias his ftatues of clay were as much adored anciently, as his golden ones : fo Raphaels hand is as much admired in the Apothecary's (hop of LoretO) as in the Vatican Pallace of Rome. Thefepots were given to the holy houfe by a Duke cfVrbinwkofe fubjedt Raphael was, and for whom he had made them with more than ordinary art. He that defrres to know more of Loreto , let him read Turfdinus his hiftory of Loreto. For my part, my time being put , I mult be gone. Taking therefore hoiTe again, we made towards Venice? and taw thefe places in our way : Ancona the Capital town of the Marc*, and one of the beft: Havens O F I T ALT m Havens in the Gttlpb : correfponding with Shvonia^Greccejyalmatica, and many ether countryes. Its buiit upon a Promontory, and backt up land-way, with a good Caftle. The Haven was built by the Emperor Trajan whofe triumphal Arch is yet feen here, and is the chief mo- nument of this town. Here is a Molo finking 200 paces into the fea. Fwll. whileft he frayed here to animate in perfon the great expedition againft the Turk/ which he had zealouily given beginning to, died. In the vaults of the Great Church are kept many faints bodyes, & pretious Rclicks. Its called S.Ci- riacfls Churcb,& it is the Cathedral. „ „, Lrom Ancona we went to Sem- a gaUia all along the S;a fide. This town is fo called from the Senones G-ilitf. Its a very neat and plea- iant town (landing in a fweet air. Its a Bilnops feat. Here began an- ciently Gallia CifaJphia. From hence we went to Fano(Fa- r^K ' num fortune') becaufc of the Tem- ple of Fortune built here in memory -P p 2 of |52 The Votagi of a battle wonn by the Romans near the River Metam us hard by where Asdwbal MannibaVs brother was flain. Here's an ancient trium- phal Arch yet ftanding. Not far from this town alfo Narfites over- came Zotila. Its an Epifcopal town. P«/«r», From hence we went to Pefaro ftanding alfo moft pleafantly by the Seaiide. Its called Fefaro, and Tefaurnm in Latin, from the Weigh- ing here of the gold which the Romans, befieged in the Capitol, - ient hitherito be pay'd to thcGoules, faith Serviut. It once belong- ed to the Dukes of Vrbin, but for want of heirs male, fell to the Church by right. From the bridge of ftone , which is here , begins the Marca cT Ancona. The air here is thought by Vranofcopiftj , to be the beft in Italp as are alfo the figgs here. tatbolirt. From hence we pafled by Caihj' lica a poor Village , adorned with nothing but a (lately Name, and an infeription upon the wall of the Chappel, rendering you the rea- foa O f Italt 353 fori why this town is called Catbv lie a, which was this. When the Emperor Conftant'w a fierce Arrian ufed violence to the Fathers that had been aflembled in the Council of Atimnl ( a town not far off) and would not fufter them to de- part ( their bufinefs being done, wliich they came for , to wit , the Catholick Faith of the Council of Nice being here alTerted and- con* firmed ) till they had complyed with theEmperors fa&io confiding of Artims s Many of them too weakly fbeing weary of fo long a ftay from their Seats ) fell to an unworthy complyance with the Arrian party* Which the zealous orthdoxe Fathers feeing, left Riming and came into this little Village, becaule they would not commu- nicate with the Arriant : Where- upon this Village got the name of Catholic a , becaufe the true Ca- tholick and or tbodoxe Fathers retired hither. If you ask me then , whether this Council of Rimini were good or no > I anfwer you, that Pp 5 the Jtimin;, I o^ The Voyage the Council was good and ortfadoxt? and confirmed the Faith ofthe Ni~ ten Council againft the Arriansh which was the bufine(s it was called about. And what happened after- wards when the Council was ended t>y the oppreilion of the Emperor, is not to be imputed to the Council, hut to fome weak Fathers as^ an error of converfation,and a too un- worthy compiyance. From CaiholiQd we went to Kimi- «i } called Arrimirmm in Latin, this is a pretty town, in which the torc- faid Council was • kept. In- the taarket place I Hiwuhe ftone ( fet liow'npdn a fedeftdl) upon whkh. Ctfar flood when he madeaipeech to his foldiers to make them refolve to march up to Kcme. Hard by in the fame market place, ftands a little round Chappcl famous for a miracle wrought there by S. Anto- ny otfadua in confirmation of the Reali Prefence. The Hiftory is too long, but fecn here painted round the Chappel, with a caft of an eye. From Or Italy 355 From hence we went through . Cefena an Epifcopal town •, and JJ^"' Forli^ForumLivii an other Bps feat j in the way "before we came toCe- fma we fa w an old inscription infrone fet up by a little rivers fide, Which I found to be the very decree of the old Senate of Rome, forbid ing, in general any officer, or foldier whatfoever to pafs over the Rubicon upon pain of being judged an enemy to his country and guilty of High Treafon. By which words Igathered that this little; river here new called Pijhtello-t was Rubicon^ Ruikotu mentioned in the Decree of the Se^ natei and that this decree pointed at Julw Cafar and his army.' Yet Cafar. being reiolved to march up • to Rome with his army , made a fpeech to his foldiers i and find- ing a compliance in their refolu- tions, palTed over Rubicon , crying out c Jatia eft alea : We mnft now ei- ther Jtn\ or fmm, and io patted on to Rome, which he Toon poiTeiTed himfelf of and then of the world. When once powerful me draw their fwor&s 356 Tfte Voyage fwords,they throw away their fcatr* bards '■> andjwhen once they have offended beyond pardon , they ftrike at the very throat of autho- rity, running upon that horrid fnaxime , that feeler* feeler ibus funt inenda. From Forliwe paffed on the right hand to Faenza, Faventid in Latin, (leaving the way on the left hand 1 , M*m*> which leads to Inula and "Bologma.) Faenza is a neat town as all the r others we had paffed by before : but having no coniiderable thing in it but white earthen pots, called Veflels of FaenzayWe flawed: not long in if, but made towards Ferrara* In the way I found little worth ob- fervatien, except onely that as we travelled one night fomewhat late for coolnefs , I faw millions of little rlyes in the air. 3 carrying a bright light about them like glowwormes.They continued all the way to our Inn for two houres after funfet, efpecially upon the corn fields and high grafs. It was huge pretty me thought, to fee O f Italy ^j- fee heaven upon ear th almoft, and flying ftarrs conduct us to our lodging. A Poet would have fworn by all the cords oiApoh^s harp, that Jupiter then was mak- ing Vulcan pave the Vault of hea- ven with a Mofaick work of Dia- monds, and that thefe were onely the fparks that fell from him : or that he was repairing the oldcauf- £cy of the Via Lade a with frefh ftarrs, and that thefe were the old ones which he had throwneaway. I catched fome of thefe ti'eryflyes, to fee where it was that they car- ryed their little Lanternes and can- dles, and I found it was in their tails. The country people callp^ * them Lucciolt. And I believe , t \%4, thefe are thofe . flyes which Pliny ArijU.u calls CicindelMy and Ariltotle calls & partita Palling thus along we came late to a little Village , and the next morning betimes to Ferrara. This Ftrrara,, town of Ferrara was once the Seat ofa Sovcraign Prince ofthe houfeof Fjiey but for want of heirs male •» P p 5- after-. 3- 258 Thb Voyage after the death of Alfonfo the II. it fell to the Church, and Clement the VIII took poffeffion of ic in perfon by an Entry and Ceremony worthy of the pen of Cardinal Ben- iivoglio who was there. The town ftands in a plain, carrying above four miles compafs j it hath a good Citadell, ftrong walls , ram- parts, bulworks: and a good garri- fon of foldiers. Here are fair ftreets, and very handfome Palhcesi but people are fomewhat thin. The. - ' . thines whieh I faw here were 1 . The T>omo^ ancient rather than beautiful. 2. Over againft it, two Statues jnbrafs of the Princes ofthehoufe of EjU h the one Duke » the other Mtrquii : the one Sitting, the other on Horfeback. 3. Behinde theie Statues is the Houfe of Ju(liee,or Town houfe. v9€S% 4. Theftrogpallace of the dukes inciently, is in the middle of the Gown, with a great mote about it, The ,Q. F J,TALY 359 the 90u.it within is painted with the pictures of all the Dukes of Fenara, here the Popes Legate lyeth. 5. The Diamond Pallace, as they The M* call it, is of white marble without, ^Z whole (tones are all cut dlamondmfe into flnirp points. Having feen it without, I longcl.to fee it within hoping that a diamond pallace with- • out, would be all carbuncle and Pearl within. But I was deceived i for entring in , I found nothing , worth the pains of going up' the ugly ftairs:and the poor woman that kept the houfe told me as much, as well as the cold kitchin. I won-' der the matter of this houfe doth not keep it alwayeslockt up, that Grangers might value it by its out- iide onely, which is admirable in- deed. fa The Monaftery of the- Lenedic- nns is ftately, in whofe church I Ario a Q , s t found the Tomb of Ariojh authour j- om & ■ of the long Voe.me, called Orland) FHrifg. He-was efteemedin his life time a greatj^oet^ and as'fuchwas crowned hWW I $&& by the Em- {xrot; »6o The Voyage peror Charles theV. but he was of- tentimes fcen, even in the ftreets, to be too much tranfportcd with Voetickjwyi and to become Ariofia /WriopjWhile he was penning his Or- Undo. He had a rich Vein, but a poor purfe \ and while his head was crowned with Laurel^ his bree- ches were often out behind, as well as tbofe of forqmto Taffi, of whom Balzac, faith, that though he were a good Poet,yet he had desfortmanw aifes chattfes. n. The Carthufians church is neat and full of good pictures. 8. The Church and convent of the Carmelits is alfo neat, in whofe libra- ry 1 faw a Manufcript oijobn Bacon^ and an other of learned 7 homos fValdenfis 3 both Englijbmen , and both learned men. Here's an Academy of Wits called Gli Elevati. Of this town was Hieronymus Savonarola author of the 3hiUar»-irittmfbm Crucis > and BaptiftaGtta- •imtv: r { n i author of the Pafior Fido. He that defires to know the hif- Cory of Ferrari, let him read Gh- 5h Aca- demy of the Ufa rj. Of It a lit %6'i nanni Baptifia Pigna , who hath written or \texprofefJb* From Ferrara we went to Padua in two dayes, the feafon being good and dryi otherwifc in winter, its too deep a way to go by landi therefore moft men embark at Ferrara , and go by boat to Venice. The rirft day, pafling over the Bo in boat at Francalino, we reached Knigo the firft town of the Vene- Rw 'X'«» tian ftate. This Town is built near where Adria ( from whence the Adriatic]^ Sea is called ) once -**"*• ftcod, and almoft upon its ruines. Its governed by a Psdefia and a Capitano Grande , as the other Towns of S. Mark, are. Of this Town was C«liitsRodigini4sd man of various learning , as his books fhewj and Bonifadas Bonifacii aa other learned humanift. . From Ruigo we arrived at Vadua betimes, but the defire of feeing Venice made us haften away the next day j deferring to fee Pa- dna till our return from Venice. Embarking then betimes in the. ■ H LaLa-\ gutia. 362* The Voyage the morning at Vaduz in a Fiotta^ a neat little barge, taken to our (elves, and much more honora- ble than to go in the great tilt- boat, where ail forts of iooiie Ruf- fians and idle people throng you up, we faw a world of (lately pallaces and gardens (landing upon the banks of the river Bronta i and (he wing- us that we were approach- ing to a great town indeed. Some live miles fhort of Ve7iice, we left the river and the horfes that drew- us , and rowed through the(hallow Sea which en- vironeth Venice on all (Ides for above five miles fpace. This low Sea is called here hnL%guna\ and tht water is fo (hallow that no great (hips can come to Venice'. little veffels come by certain chan- nels which are well fortified with caftles, forts, and chains , fo that no man can come to Veniee but with lieve or knocks. We arrived there betime-s? and all the way we admired to fee fueh a ftatcly City lying as it were at Anchor, in the. Of It alt. l$% fhcmidft of the Sea v and ftandisg fixed where every thing elfe floats. Venice at firit was nothing but ^ ori - a company of little dry fpots of*!" °f ground which held up their heads ' '* in a fhallow Sea furnjfhed by Seven rivers, Fiava, Sila, Liven- za, To, Adige, Brenta , and 7^- gliammo, which run into it. To thele little dry fpots of groud fifher- men repaired anciently for their fifliing, and built little cottages upon them. But afterwards Italy being overrun by Goths, Huns, and Vicegoths , divers rich men from feveral parts of Italy , as well as from Padua, fled hither with the heft of their goods, to fave them and themfelves in thefe poor cot- tages unknown to thofe barbarous nations : and finding by experience this to be a- fafer place than any elfe 3 they began to provide, againft thofe frequent difatters of. barbarous incurfions, by build- ing good houfes here. This many men did and made at laft* a fine town. . 364 The Voyage town here, and greater than her mother Padua. This happened twelve hundred years ago, which makes Venice glory , that (he is the ancienteftRepublick in Europe. To which purpofe I cannot omit to tell here a pretty ftory which was told me in Paris of a Venetian Emba(Tadour 9 who reliding in the Court of France, and hnding him- felf in a vifit where there were many Ladyes, , was ferioully asked by a grave old Lady(who heard him fpeak much of the Seignory of Ve- nice) whether the Seignory of Ve- nice were fair or no ? yes Madam, faid he > one of the faireft in Europe. Is (he great : faid the Lady again ? yes, Madam, faid the EmbafTador (he is great enough. Is (he rich faid the Lady ? worth millions, replyedthe Embafladour. Methinks then, faid the Lady, (he would be a good match for \Monfuur the Kings brother: yes .madam, replyed he again, but that (lie is a little too old. Why iJ£W how old ^ *he I P«y you, faid / the. JBJt-tUe EJfelle grands ? EfteUe rnhi ? k ZutUt Of T T alt 3^5 tne Lady > Madam, anfwered the EmbafTadour, fbe is about twelve hundred years old. At which the company fmiling, the good Lady perceived her errour with blufhing, and Monfieu? was unmarryed for that prefent. Indeed Cosmography , and 7 opogr a phy arc hard words, and as the old laying is, aliud Sceptrum* alind pUttrum) a looking glafs is not the fame thing with a map. As for Venice now, 'tis one of fcbe the faired Cities in Europe , and Venit * called by the Proverbial Epithete , ww# VinetialaRiccha> Venice the rich.Its well nigh eight miles in compaft, and in form fomcthing like a Lute. It hath no wall about it to de- fend it, but a mote of water that is five miles broad which furrounds it. It hath no fuburbs, but a world of little Iflands clofe by it. The ftrcets of Venice are all full of water j and for this reafon they uie no coaches here, but vifit in boats. Thefe boats they call here Goh~ xfotGsa- doLh, and there ate above twenty j t i atti thoufand of them. For befides that evere noble Venetian_or rich man, I I %66 The Voyage roan hath two or three of his own, there are alwayes a world of them itanding together at feveral pub- lick wharfs, To that you need but cry out, Gondla, and you have them lanch out prefently to yout thefe Gondolas are pretty neat black boats like our oars , holding fix perfons conveniently upon the Seats, which arq covered over head with a thick felack cloath , with windows at either fide, which in winter defends you from the wind r and in fummer from the Sun. The multitude of thefe Gondolas help to employ a great many poor, men , and, to make a world of mariners For publick fervice in time of need. Ordinary people here, may go up and down the town by little back allyes, which they call here Calk-, thefe by winding up and down , and delivering (them over feveral bridges, hugely puzzle ft rangers at firm Of thefe bridges there are above 15C0 in Venice 3 all of ftone Etiiges anc j f one arc ^ reacn ing from one »*«/«. fide of the [lreet tQ the otherj w h ile the Gondolas, run under the arch. The The greateft of thefe bridges is called the Bialio, built over the 3krial» Canal Grande, all of white marble. This is one cfthe fine ft bridges in Europe, becaule of the one arch only, and of the vaft widentfs- and height of thatarch", the Cha- nt! here being as wide as any man can throw a ftone. This bridge bears upon its back two. rows of fhops, and little houfes covered with lead •, and left this great weight fhouJd make the foundation link,, they built it upon Vilotier> that is> great trees rammed into the ground, to the number of fix. thouftnd in all. In fine, this bridge cpft two hundred and fifty thoufand crowns. It were a fine fight , to fee in a hard froft, the fireets of Venice all frozen, and people walking up and down upon diamond ftreets, or a chryftal pavement. In the mean time its no unpleafing- fight to fee the ftreets full of water, and fuch ftately pallaces on either fide ,. efpecially the Canal Grande, which runs quite through the middle of the I I g68 The Voyaoe the City , and is hedged in on either fide with (lately houfes, among which are counted two hun- dred pallaces tit to lodge any King. The whole City hath in it 32 Mo- nafteries of religious men, 28 of re- ligious women.yo Earim Churches i and about a hundred and four- icore thoufend inhabitants. Having (aid thus much of the fituation oiVenice^ I will now fpeak of the Government,Strength,riches, Religion, dc Interelt of this Repub- lick,and then fall to the particularrs I faw in if. . < For the Government here,its pure- ly Ariftocratical , by the "Doge , vtrmim. and the Nobles. The great counfel abegrttit confiftsof twothoufand Gentlemen. Gwnftl -phis j s . the y a f tf Q f the liate Gq< . vernment 1. becaufe that out ofthefc are chofen all the other magistrates, Fodejias, Generals^ Capitani, Grandi^ FrovidetoriGcnerali^tnbaffadors^&c, This great Counfel affembles fre- quently in one. great room of the Doges pallace, where there are feats for them all, and where bu- fineiTcsIre voted bybalotingi that is Go- Of It alt 369 is by -putting in a clofe double box of two colours, a little ball, about the bignefs of a button , which is made fo foft -that no man can hear into whether part of the double box the ball tails. E- very Gentleman in this great counfcl hath two of thefe balls given him, one white and the other red : the one fignifying, the affirmative vote, the other the negative: fo that they give their votes fecretly, and with- out being known afterwards for what party they Hood i or without giving example to others to follow them in their votes , as leading men would do? and fo draw all into faction and cabals. To run through all the Magifrrates and Officers of this Republick, the Fregiadi) thefavi Grandi-, the favi di Terra ferma , the fail degli mainly th c configlio de died, 8cc. would be a work too long for a traveller, and too tedious for my reader. I will only fpeak of the fliprcme Magiftrate here, the T>oge , or 2 *' 1 ^'- Prince, as they call him, who re- prefents the head of this Republick. He 270 The Voyage He is now chofen by the whole Senate, and is for life : heretofore he was hereditary till the year loa- the manner of balotting in chooling the Doge is fuch a puzzle that I had rather you- mould read it in Sabetiem, than I give my felf the trouble of defcribing it. For the mod part they chuie a man well >ftricken in years , and one who hath-made his circle of EmbaiTyes: that is, hath been fifteen years £rnbviTadour in the chief courts of Europe, three years a piece in every one: and fo acquired unto himfcli a per feci: knowledge of all fines and ltate affairs. Being chofen once, he cannot ftir out of the Laguna without lieve. Nor at home can he do all things of his own head, but with the advice of his Counfcllers, who are iix, chofen out of the moft honourable gentle- men of the City. Thefe iix lit with him in counfel, and execute with him all bufineltes, as to give audience, read letters, grant pri- viledges, and the like : which cannot Of Italy 571 Cannot be executed by the Doge, if there be not four counfellers with him •, and yet they can execute and act without the Doge', and its they that have authority to pro- pofe in the great Counfel, things of concern, In giving fuffrages, .his fuffragc is no more than an ordi- nary Senators, in the Senate i but he hath two voyces in the Great Countel. The Doge and tbefe Coun- fellers are called 11 Collegio t but then in main publick affairs there enter into this Counfel, fix Savi Grandi , five Savi di Terra Ferma, five Savidegli Ordini> and TreCapi de Quaranta Criminal'*- This full Colledge diftributes bufinefs to the other magiftrates to be handed, ha- ving been headed here. The habit of the Doge is ancient, and hath fomething of the Pontifi- cal habit in it. His Pomp, Train, and Lodging are a 1 Princely => and in publick functions he hath carryed before him the eight filver trumpets, the great Vmhreh'a of cloth of tyf- fue,the Cuuhion, the Chair, thegiit fvvord,Sc a white wax candle carried by Marce. 372 The Voyage by a child. All letters of State are written in his name, and mo- ney is coyned in his name, but the impronto? or ftampofit, is alwayes the figure of S. Marh^ , or S. Markj Lyon. For the moft part the Doge is chofen out of thofe whom they Procurato c3i \\ here, Procurator! di £• Mareo, n it StfHyhefe Procurators are of high ranck and efteem in this Repubhck. Here- tofore there was but one Trocu- r atari di San Marco, whofe office was, to have a care of all things belonging to S. Marias Church and the Treafure. But now ttare are twenty five, moft of which have made their circles of Embaifyes in forraign Courts, and are fit wood to make Doges of; though fome of them of late have been aflumed to that d-ignity for money \ the State now making money of all men, as well as of all things. As for the Strength and Power of Venice? its very great \ their pof- feffions in Italy? being full as great as the Popes > and out of Italy? far greater. In Italy they hold fourteen Provinces under them. They are Lords Their ftrtngth Of It alt 37: 3 Lords of tlmCulph , >or Adriatic^ Sea. ■ i; ■':■-. . They ppfleflc/the.-coaft of !><*/*■ w^/ia beyond theGulpb* They hold the lies of Corfu, Cepbalonia & Z<*«f. Cand'ia \ or the I/e of Cm a , belongs to them by due. The kingdome of Cyprus alio is pretended to by them 7 and by it , and Candy , whofe two crowns they (hew us in the* 1 Trcafury,re«fce \s iWWed Seremflima. ' The kingdome of Cyprus came to the Venetians by Catherine Cornaro who was made heire of it by her ion the King thereof, who dyed young, and without ifTue about the year 1438. The ltory is this. Ka- , therine was daughter of Marco Cor- comuiu naro, . and neece of Andrew Coma- mj} or , . re two noblemen of Venice, Andrew was fent Axditore Generale into the Kingdom of Cyprus, in the time of J awes King of that Ii1and,andhelpt him to many thoufand Crowns, whereby he fettled his tottering Crown, One day as the King was talking familiarly with him, he let fall ( whether by chance, or defign) a little picture in miniar* 274 The Voyage iure , of a very handfome Lady. The Ring curious to fee it, called for it civilly, and viewing it we'll, fell hugely in love with the Origi- nal of it, which Andrew allured him to be far handfomer than the copy, and withall added, that if his Majsfty l?ked her , (he was his Neece, and that therefore he offcx- ed her freely to him for his wife , with all "the money he had already lent him, and a hundred thoufand crowns more.The King bit willing- ly at thefe two baits, beauty, and money, apd was not quiet till he had marryed her. Of her he had but one fori, whom ( dying ) he- left under his mothers protection , but he dying alfo not long after, left his mother heir of the King- dom ■> and fhe at» her death , left this Crown and Kingdom to the Venetians by will and gift. This whole hiftory I 'law painted. in the pallace of Cornaro by the hand of Paulo Verotiofc As for the flrong holds which the Venetians , poiTels in Italy , they are thefe : Gretna, Bergamo^ Brefeia } Pejchtera, .fbiofa OfItaly 375 Cbiofcti and Talma Nmva in Frttili. This laft is one of the belt places F»lm» in Europe. It hath nine royal bafiiotuy ****** ^eighteen Cavaliers,which command all the neighbouring Campagnia : it hath ditches of water about it thirty paces broad , and twelve deep* Its ramparts behind the wall arc highland covering, and they are alwayes fringed with a hundred pieces of Canon, and ready to re- ceive fix hundred more, which are alwayes in its magazin ready upon all occafions. And for men and armour as the great Arfenal in Venice hath alwaies arms in ready- nefsfor a hundred thoufand men i fo this ftate being peopled with three millions of men, would eafily find three or four hundred "thou- fand men of fervice, and a hun- dred-Gallies : yet their ordinary mi- litia is but of fourfcore thoufand foot, and fome 6cco horfe * and thirty Gallies, for their riches j though fhelr ordinary revenues ( before &i<kth late wars with the Turk ) exceeded not four millions , yet now Q,q 2 they •about »• As their thefe Thiirtt 076 T^e Voyage they fpur themfelves , and the Country up to excefftve fumms. Few dye but they bequeathfome- thingtofuch a Chriftian fcrvice as this war is. Befides this , the taxes are much augmented , and feizures and forfeitures more nar- rowly looked into, to help publick expences. In fine, befides this, the great trading which Venice drives , ( Aleppo alone bringing in fome years, four millions of gold ) the Venetians have found out very compendious way to raife, in one quarter of an hour , and by one da(h of a pen, fifty hundred thoufand crowns, to help them- (elves withall at a dead lift , and incommodate no man. This they did An- 1646, when fifty rich fa- milies in Venice gave to the ftate a hundred thoufand Crowns apiece to be made noble Venetians.Thc like courfe they took to raife money , about a hundred years ago, when they were fct upon by moft of the Princes of Europe at once. As for their religion, its Roman Catholick, and they have never changed O f Italy, g.?7 changed it fince the beginning of their Republick. Hence Mr. Ray- mond in his Merctmo Italico page i £8. faith truly, that Venice hath this property above all other States; that (he is a Virgin, and more, from her fii'ft infancy, Chriltian : having never yet fell from her Principles cither in Government or religion It began to be built the very fame year, that S. Aiiguftin dyed', ( as Baro- niUi obferves. As for the Intereft of this Repub- ™"J In ' lick, they are now well with the 7* ' Emperor j not out with Sfain^ nor too fecure of his Friendship » kind with the French, as long as they keep out of I;a/y>well affcdted to En- glandwd juft friends with the Pope. Now for the particulars which I faw in Venice^ they were thefe. i. The men themfelves here, who looked like men indeed : and as a Philofopher anciently faid, that when he came from Corinth to Sparta> he feemed to come from,' horfes to men : fo me thought, wh en I came from France to Venice I came from boyes to men. For here aq3 l I 378 The V oyage I faw the handfomeft . the moft lightly, the moft proper, and grave men that -ever I faw any where elfe. They wear alwaies in the town CLfpeak of the Noblemen ) along black gown, a blackcap knit, with an edging of black wool about it, like a fringe ■> an ancient and manly wear, which makes them look like Senators. Their hair is generally the beft I ever faw any where -, thefe little caps not pref- fing it down as our hats do > and Perywigs are here forbid. Under their long gowns ( which fly open before )theyhave handfbme black twites' of rich fluffs- with {lockings and garters, and Spanifh leather ihooes neatly made. In a word , I never faw fo many proper men together, nor fo wife, as I faw day- ly there walking upon the Piaz- za of S. MurJ{. I may boldly fay, that I faw there five hundred gentlemen walking together every , day, every one of which was able to play the EmbsfTador in any Prin- ces court of Europe. But the mifery as, that we Grangers cannot walk there O f Ital y , 379 i there, with them, and talk with them, but muft keep out of their way , and ltand aloof ofif. The reafon is this : This ftate(as all Re- publicksare ) being hugely, jealous of her liberty and prefervation , forbids her Noble men and Sena- tors to converfe with Forrain Em- baffadors, or any man that either is anadtual fervant or follower of an Embaffador, or hath any the lead: relation to any Princes Agent,with- out exprefs lieve i and this up- on pain of being fufpedted as a Traitor, and condignly punifhed. This makes them fhy to. all ftrang* ers , not knowing what relation they may have to Come forraign flares man or Agent. For the fama reafon they will not let their wives vifit the wives of forrain Emhajfadors redding in Venice, for fear of being fufpeclred to commit treafon by proxie. They have in the wall of the Pallace, in divers places, certain wide mouths of marble (tone, over which I found written thefe words: "Denuncie fecrete, private informa- tions, into which they caft lecret- ■I Venhe 380 The Voyage ly papers of accufations, by which I they accufe fecretly any officer , or nobleman , whom they dur(t not accufe publickly. This makes men itand hugely upon their guard, and be wary with whom they con- verfe, and what t hey fay. 2. As for the women here, they Xbettobh iwould gladly get the fame reputa- wffw«0rt tat i on that their Husbands have, of being tall and handfome '■> but they overdo it with their horrible cioppini , or high fhooes, which have often feen to be a full half yard high. I confefs, I wonder- ed at firit, to fee women go upon ftilts, and appear taller by the head than any many and not to be able to go any whether without reft-. ing their hands upon the, fhoul- ders of two grave matrons that ulber them : but at lair, I per- ceived that it was good policy, and a pretty ingenious .way .either to . clog .women at home byfuch hea- |vy {hoes ( as the EgYP^ 115 kept] their wives at home by allowing; them no (hoes at alb) cr at lealti tp make them not able to go ei- ther Of Italy 581 titer far, or alone, or invifibly. As for the young Ladies of this Town, that are not marryed, they are never feen abroad, but masked like Mfcaradis iri a ftrange difguife, at the fair time, and other publick folemnities or (hows, being at other times brought up in Monafteries of Nuns, till they be marryed. 3. Then I went to the Church *££}' of S. Marl^ the Evangelift, whofe body lyeth here 3 having been trans- lated hither from Alexandria, 820 and odd years agos having ever h- finte been one of" the chief Patrons of this ftate, as his Lyon hath ever (ince been the Arms of the Re- publick, and its leal m all publ»ck writings. This Church is built a h Thcdefca, as they call it, and as the bii\ Churches built about thofe times, were. Its neither great nor high i but fo rich for the ma- terials, that norhing but Mofaick' work and marble appear in it. The roof arti the walls a good way down, are curioufly painted with' M)fa:ck hiftoriesand pictures-, and
  • 82 The Voyage I
the reft of the wall is rare marble. I Among thofe Mfoicl^piftitresi there! are to bs feen in the vault of the I Arch over the door of the Trea=| fury, two old pictures the one of I S. Vominic^the other ofS. Francis , I both made before they inftituted their feveral Orders, and yet both, in the religious habits which thofe of their Orders wear •, and all this.. out of the predictions of Joachim Mattnfus ( Abbat of Cutac'ium^ and not ot S. •ft,npo, Fleurr, as fome wrongly call him:} who lived before theft Of ders were inftituted. The picture alfo of the Pope, near to the Pictures of the forefaid Saints, is faid to be a Prophetical picture of the faid Ab- bs defcribing » reprefenting the ; laft Pope that (hall govern the flock of Chrift, when all the world {hall be of one religion. The pave- ment of this Church is fuitable to the reft , being in fome places compofed of vaft marble nones naturally reprefenting the waves of the Sea j in other places its airioufly inlayd with ftones of fe- deral colours exprefling Flowers , ftars, Of Italy 383 fhrs, birds, hearts and the like: among which itones I perceived here and there fome Turky ftones of great value among us, but here not fcorning to be trod upon. Thirty fix marble pillars of around form, and two foot thick in dia^ meter, hold up the roof of this Church. The High Altar is a rare piece, cfpecially when you fee the back of it open as I did upon the Aicenfion Eve. This back of the Al- tar is richly adorned with divers rows of little enamelled pictures, a. laGreca, let in gold; and enriched with brave pearl and pretious ' Hones intermingled every where between the pictures. This molt rich ornament., or back of the Al- tar, was given by a Vo%e.qt Venice^ and brought from [Contlantiwple. Behind the High Altar t'hnds the Altar of the B. Sacrament, where there are two tranfparent round pillars 4 yards high. In the Sacrilfy which is hard by,I fa w neat Mofaick work in the roof i and an admirable picture of £. Hlerome of the fame- work alio. Round about' the infide f. 3B4 The Voyage of the Church , over the pillars, liang the Scntcbwis of feveral ZV gcr, in a large the. For the V>gss at their creation, caufe three things to be made.Firii their picture which is fct up in the Sal a. of the great Counfel: Secondly their arms or Scutchion, which- are fomctimesof Silver and of a huge fize \ and are fet up after the Vogcs death in the Church for ever. Thirdly they rnufll make their picture in. the Cdlegio ,; ox.Prcgiadi' XhtTrea- 4* From the Church we were fury ofs. let in to fee the Treafui y of S. Mar^ Mark- which joins to the Church. It was fhovvn us by fpecial lieve from above, and by two Noble Venetians vvhoarealwayes pr.fent whenit is fliown. We were tirit (hown the Spiritual Treafure, & then the tem- poral i that is, firft the Relicks, and then the jewels. The relicts were thcTe principally. A great authentic.al piece of the holy ctofs, above a fpan long. It is the greatest piece I have feen any where, except that in the Holy Chappel in Paris, and though fame enemies of the very Crofs 'The Spiri tualTre- Jure. O f Italy 385 €ro(s of Chrift, as well as of other Rclicks, do jceringly (ay, that there are Co many pieces of the Holy Grot's fhown in the world, that if They were all put (ejether, they would make a cart load of wood: yet I dare maintain more probab- ly , that all the pieces any one man can dy_ are fhown in Etivope (and L have feen a good part of it) would not make fo much of the Crofs, as one of thofe parts on which our Saviours hands were nail- ed : feeing the grcateft part that we find of it, is no thicker than an ordinary mans finger, and little longer than afpans and that very part of it which I faw in the Popes own Sacriity in the Vatican is no longer than a mans little linger : and if the King of France (S. Lewi*) in his two expeditions into the Holy Land , could get o.nely fo little a. piece of it as that which is fhown in Parv in the Saint Cbap- £<?//,\ and if the Pope himfelt could gee no greater a piece of it, than that mentioned above, I do not wonder if in other places, they (hew the Urn- porahrea jure-. 386 The Voyage fhew fuch little (hreds of it , as all together would not make two foot of timber, much lefs a cart- load. We faw alfo here a finger of S. Mark- His ring with a ftone in it, which our Lip'daries cannot tell how to name. Some of our Savi- ours blood gathered up inhisPafli- oa, with the earth it was fpiltupon. A thorne of the Holy Crown of thornes. A nail which nailed the two pieces of the Crofs together. A finger of S. Mary Magdalen. A piece of S. John Baftifts Cranium. A tooth of S. Mxrk^ A piece of S. Jchn Baprijls habit. Some of our B. Ladies hair. An ancient pic- ture of S. John Baptifi, enamelled in gold. A piece of our Saviours "white robe when he was (corned. A Very ancient pidture of our B. Lady carryed about anciently by Con- ftanrin the Grear,who had it alwayes with him. One of the Stones of the lorrent, wherewith S. Stephen was ftoncd. And in fine, the fword of S.PfffT. Then leading us to the temporal freajure in an other room , they fhew'd; Of Italy. ^j fhew'd us ( by candlelight, as they did alfo the Spiritual Treafure) thefe things. Fir ft, the twelve crownes of gold,& the twelve bread and back- pieces (like womcns clofe bodyes} of beaten gold alfo,fet thick,as well as the Crownes , with exquiiit pearl, both round, and big ; Twelve young Virgins ufed to wear them anciently upon a Feaft day. Then three great Carbuncles, one where- of weigheth fix ounces, and is big- ger than an ordinary henns egg : They Value it at two hundred thouiand crownes. Then the two Crownes of gold Cet thick with pre- tious {tones i one being the Crown of the kingdome of CjprWi the other of the kingdom of Candy. After this they (hewed us the Vo- £e's Crown, called here il Corno^ becaufc its made fomewhat (harp and turning in at the top, like a horn. Its fet round with a clofe row, of excellent pearl , each one as big as a hafel nut, with a Vaft Ruby in the front of it , worth a hundred thoufond crownes, fay they 7 and one of the fairelt dia- monds g8S The Voyage moiids in Europe in the top of [;. Then they me<v'd us many orher rich things, as the Flower de Luce of gold with a rich Diamond in if, given by Hdry the Third o£ France at his palling by Venice when he came oat of -Poland. The two V nic or nes homes, far left than that atS. Denys in France; but no lefs true. The two Crucifixes fet with pearl and rich jewels, and in great number. The Great Caudleiticks
  • and Thurible of beaten gold, and
curiouily wrought : each one being almoit as heavy as a man- can carry in both hands. The Great Chalice of gold, as great as a man can lift with both hands. A Sipbyr weighing ten ounces. A cup, or dilh, as broad and deep as an ordinary calioteCor cap which we wear under our hats ) and all of one I'urky ftone entire, and of huge value i It was fent unto this Republick by a King of Terfia. A Veifel like a tankard,of a rich Cameo i its handle being curioufly engraven with a diamond. A little Vale of therbotes oiEmmeraud.^n orher of Sardonic ';. A, Of Italy £% A great cup of Agate. An other of Roman Agate far finer than the former, and more tranfparent. A rich Pax of Motherof pearl. A5pj»J/& Embaffador^once. viewing this Trea- fure, took a candle and looked eurioufly under the ' long tables upon which:' thefe rich things are expofed i and being asked what he looked for, anfwered : that he looked whether this Treafure had rootes or no, as his mafters Trea- fure had and therefore groweth yearly : meaning the India Fleet o£ Spain which bringeth home yearly to the King of Spaines coffers and Treafure, twelve millions. 5. Having feen this Treafure and thanked the two noble Venetians™^?" that flood by v and requited the under officers that fhew'd it ; we went into the Doge's Pallace, which joyncs to St Marks Church ■-, and mounting up the open Hairs into the open Gallery, We faw the two great marble Statues of Mirs and Neptune, which iUndat die head of iheCe ihirs, and iigtr.fy the itrength. of the Venetians both by Sea and Land, PaHace. 390 The Voyage Land. They are excellent pieces, otherwife great Sanfovbw would never have owned them by writ- ing under them : Qpm Smfovini. This ope Gallery led us into a world of Chambers of Juftice , and Clerks offices,all throngd with buGnefs and bufy men. Going up from hence into a higher ftory , we faw the Doge's Chamber of audience, his An- iicbamberf, his dining room, and the like. From thence we were led into feveral great Chambers of Counfel, all rarely well painted. After that we faw the great cham- ber, or Sala of the Senate houfe, where the Nobles meet upon affairs as great as the Chamber.. For here they meet about the chuiing of publick Officers, either for the go-> verning of the City 3 or Army : and fometimes they have been forced to ftay there eight dayes (faith SabeJIicus ) not being able to agree about the Elections* they not being permitted to depart thence till they agree. This Se- nate houfe, or Great Chamber, is a&ove threefcore paces long , and thirty
  • 9*
OF IT^LY g thirty wide. Its full of Seats for the Noble Venetians, to the number of two thoufand men , who have right to enter here. Its painted on all fides by the rareft painters that were in Italy when this room was made. Over the Doge's throne, is a rare piece of painting cove- ring the whole end of the room above,- and reprefenting heaven in a glorious manner. Its of the band of Tintoret. The great pidures upon that fide of the rooin which looks towards the court of thePallace, contain the hiftory of Pope Alexander the III, and the Emperor Federick^ Barbaroffa. I faw alfointhis great room, and in the next joyning to it, the true pictures of all theVoges of Venice. In the other Chambers of this Pallace, in the Churches, and other Pallaces of this town , I faw fo many , and fo rare pieces of painting, of 1i- tiatiy lintoret, Belling, Gentile, Cafiel Franco, Bajfano, Paolo Veronefe.Per- donone and others, that with Madam Homes leave , I dare boldly fay i that no place of Italy hathfo many rd*e tflje Utile. Arjhml 3p-2 The Voyage rare pictures in it, as Venice hath : and perchance , you will be of my op'nion , if you read the curious book of %^d>lfi^ who hath written the lives of the Painters of Venice, and the Venetian State'* and fets down where their prime pieces are to be feen. 7. Having feen thefe Chambers Ql Indie aim e, we were led about to the Sala of the Configlh de Vieci^ (otherwife called, the little Arfe- rial) in the Pallace (till. Its a cu • rious fight, and therefore not to be omitted by my Traveler. There are arrives in it for a thoufand men 9 ready upon all occafions of fedi- tion or treafon. The muskets are alwayes charged and primed , & e- very fix months they difcharge them , to charge them a frefh. Pikes,and fwords,are alfo fo ordered here, that by plucking a firing, they fall into the hands of thofe that fhould ufe them : fo that in lefs than half an hour, a thoufand. men may rally out armed. In the end of the great room where the muskets Of Italy g^g muskets hang, (lands a great iron ball pierced through like a basket hilt, and four times as big as a fouldiers helmctjwithin which there is a fpring, which being uncockt by the pulling of a cord, (hikes fire into gunpowder which lyeth round about within this ball in a train, and there are fo many feve-' ral ends of match as there are musket here •, half of the match hanging out of the holes of the ball, the other half being within, and reaching into the train of powder : fo that the firft man that (hould come in and pluck the forefaid cord would prefently firike fire, and light the match all at once * and then every man catching a musket, and one of thefe matches lighted, they are armed in a mo- ment. This armory is to fecure the Doge and the Senators (while they are aiTembkd in counfel ) from fuch like treafons-as have been plotted againft them whilft they were fitting in counfel. And for this purpofe , there's a door which openeth out of the Senate houfe ^94 ^ HE Voyage houie into this Armory ■-, and the Keys of it are alwayes laid near the Doge when he fits here in con- futation: Nor is this Co much an Italian Jealofy, asa prudent caution caafed by pall dangers. For they (hew us in the great Arfenal, the armour (with one arm onely, to be worn under a Venetian gown, while the other arm was mowed bare, to take off all fufpicion) of Bajamantelbeopoli^nd his complices, to the number of eight hundred men , who intended to kill the whole Senate while it was afTem- bled i and make Bajamante mafter of Venice. But the plot was dafht irt the execution i becaufe Bajamantes brains were datht out by a poor woman, who feeing him march under her window in the head of his rebellious crew , threw down Sabellictu fr om } ler w indow a great earthen ,l ' flower pot upon his head, and killed him dead. His party feeing this, retired, and were foon fubdued : i.and his houfe was turned into a Shambles for butchers •, a fit diigi ace for him who would have been the Butcher O f Italy 395: Butcher of his Piince andcountry- me, here alio in this Arfenal we faw the fword and armes of brave Scan- derkg Prince of Albania^ who wonn feaven battles over feven the moft illuftrious Baps the Great T«r^ had , and dyed after all peaceably in his Eftates, in fpiteof Amuratb. Its faid , that the great 7ur}^ hearing how Scmderbeg with his fwordj had cloven men in two, tent to him h and defircd him, to fend him his faord-ybis- cutting fwcrd'. which he did > the 3«r£ tryed it upon his flaves , and rinding that he could not cleave men as Scanderbeg had done,fent him word, that he had not fent him his true fword', to whom Scanderbeg replyed, that he had fent 'him indeed his fword, but not his arm. As for this fword, which they call here Scan- derbegs fword , its a broad thin blade of a reafonable length , I but light, and of as good met- tal almoft , as its matter. We faw here many other curiofities: as the ftandard of the Doge Zani^ j who reitored Pope Alexander the III, %$6 The Voyage III unto his Seat again - , with his fw o r d 3 buck le r, & h e 1 m e t . T h e. i) a n .- dard of the great TWj^.The flandard of horfes hair belonging alio to the great Turf^ and which he hung out al . wayes before battle ,- . as a fignal of combat : it was taken by a Frenchman called Ciotar. The Statues of Ludmcj Sforza Duke of Mi/*»,and of his wife Vifcmti. The flattie or head of Carar j^whom they call the Tyrant, but how truly I know not. The ftatue or head in brafs of brave Venerio, General cf the Venetians in the battle of Le~ pa?ito. The head in brafs alfo of brave 'Bragadino^ Head alive by the Turks for his countryes fervice. Thepidure offama Iufiitiain agreat cafe let with rich (tones. This cafe was made for a great looking glafs which the Venetians' fent unto the Su'tanef&ot the great Turk, •> but the Chip that carryed it y meeting in the way af'rigat which brought the news ofa great Victory gotten over the Turkf by the Venetians up- on 5.w** JufihiM day, it returned back again with the prefent, and the Of Italy 397 the Senate caufed the glafs to be ta- ken out, and Santa Jujimas picture to be fet in place of it. Then we faw a rare Carpet, or rather a cu- rious piece of fluff with figures in it, fentto the Republick of Venice by a King of Perfta. 'The habits of two noble Cbinefi who were bapti- zed at Venice. The armour of brave Gatta Mehy with the pi&ure of a cat in his head piece. The armour ©f fome of the ancient T>2ges of Ve- nice, who to the number of forty or fifty , went to war in perfon, and did fuch things there, as to make their very armour to be ho- nourable. The habit, buckler, and fword of a Kingof Per/^ jthearmes are fet with rich ftones. The ar- mour of Henry the IV. of France with his pocket piftol. The armour of the Duke ofRoban.-Thc compleat armour of a little boy about 10 years old , who was found dead in a battle fighting . for th<* Venetians and his country, and not known who he was. Poor brave child? who being worthy never to have dyed • doeft not fo much as R r live 398 The Voyage live in hiftory ! Indeed I did not think till then, that Mars had his abortives too , dying before their time, and before they were named. Then they (hew'd me Anita's Helmet, with the head piece of his horfe. A Cannon (hoot- ing feaven (hots at once , as if death with his fingle dart went too flowly to work. An other Cannon (hooting threefcore (hots in ten barrel.'!. A halbard with a barrel within it, (hooting fourteen (hots. An other halbard (hoooting fea- ven (hots. A Cannon of iron car- j tying two miles , and curioufly wrought into flowers with the , points of chizels. The collar of iron of the Taduan Tyrant (as they call him here) Carara. The little iron Crofsbow of the fame Tyrant, with which he is faidtohave (hot needles a fpan long, and killed many men privatly , who knew not how, or by whom they were hurt. Then the divels Organs, or a trunck of leather with iopiftol bar- rels in it of a foot and a half long, and fodifpofed in order like organ pipes, , Of Italy 399 pipes, that upon the opening of the lock of this trunck , all thefc barrels being charged with feve- ral ballets, (hould let fly at once, and Co (battering wide , kill all thole that (hould be in the room. This trunck was contrived by a re- vengeful man, who having a mind to be revenged both of his ene- my, and of his enemyes friends at once, fenthim this trunck by an unknown bearer ( as a prefent from a friend ) while he treated his friends at a dinner. The holes through the (ides of it , made by the bullets, (hew the devililn erTedt of this trunck •> and how well it de- (erves the name of the devils or- gan. The box of botargot here is juft fuch another invention. A piftol in a pocket book here is as bad as the others, which being char- ged and let off, would prefently read your doom Swords and dag- gers, with piitol and little gun bar- rels running along their blades , . which Veing held drawn with the broad, fide to a man , appear to- be onely plain fwords and dag* R r 2 gers, 400 T HE Voyage gers, and yet they difcharg thrnfts not to be parried by any fencing guard.! faw alfo here a fine taber- nacle of Chryftal : a burning Lamp found in Antenor's tomb in Padua. a burning glafs, which burnethhalf A mile off: a rare Adam and Eve with the Serpent and the tree, all cut out of one piece of wood by the rare hand of Alberto Ditreo : and in fine, the picture of King James of England, the onely pidture of any forraign Prince that I faw there. HiPiaz- Having thus feen this Cabinet of z* *f$. Mars , we went out of the Pallace Mar k? into the ?iazza of S> Mark^ upon which both the forefaid Church of S. Markj and the Page's Pallace look. This is one of the noblelt Piazzas that a man can fee in any town. It runns from the Sea fide up along the Pallace to the Church ©fS. Mtrkj and from thence turn- ing on the left hand , it fpreads it felf into a more large, and longer open place, moft beautiful to be- hold : for the whole Piazza, e ven from the Sea fide , to the further end O f Italy 401 end , is all built upon arches and marble pillars •> and raifed up with, beautiful lodgings, fit ro lodge all the Vrocuratori of S. MarJ^i all the richforrain merchants^ a world of perfons of condition ; the Mint, and the famous Library. In that part of thcpiazza which lies under the Pallace, the Nobili Venetian! walk altogether, twice a day, to confer about bufinefs of State. This meeting here of the Noble- men is called the Broglio. And in the end of it , clofe by the Sea fide, ftand two great pillars of rich marble , the one bearing upon it the Image of S. Theodoras* the other, the Lyon of S. Mar\, thefe two Saints, S» Min^and S. Theodore, being the two Patrons of this City. Thefe two pillars were erected here by a Lombard, who required no other recompence for his paines, than that it might be lawfullfor dice-players to play at dice between thefe two pillars without being puniflied or molefted, nay though they play'd falfe play. Here- alio between thefe two pillars, they R r 3 execute ii©2 The Voyage execute malefa&ors , to mew that they deferve not the protection of thofe two patrons, who break the order's of that town which is under their prote&ion. Its pitty that the Lombard himfelf was not whipped here at leaft,for making himfelf the Prote&or of idle rogues there, where she Saints are Patrons of honeft men. Over againft the Pallace ftands the Mint, in a place called La Zeccba, and from hence the gold coyned here is called Zecch'mo^ piece of gold worth fome feaven (hillings fixpence of our money. Hard by it, ftands the Library fa- mous both for the quantity and Quality of the bookes, that are in it..Pdr^(once Canon of the church' otTadua) gave his Library to it i 6c Beffarion a Greek Cardinal of great Learning and worth, gave as many Greek Manufcripts unto it, ascoft him thirty thoufand crownes:& yet by this Legacy , Bejfarion was but c- ven with the Venetians, who hono- red him in fuch a particular man- ner, as to fend out the Bucentauro it felf to bring him into Venice,. being Of Italy 403 being fent thither Legat by the Pope. 8, Going from hence into the other part of the Fiazza which ftands before the Church, I efpyed upon the very out corner of the, wall of the Church fas you come out of the Pallace ) four Porphiry Statues of four.merchants embrace- ing one another. Having en- quired what thofe Statues werefet for there , I was told by a grave old gentleman of Venice, that thofe whom thefe Statues reprefent, were four merchants and grangers, who brought hither molt of the Jewels mentioned above in the Treafury : and that afterwards poyfoning one another, out of covetoufnefs, left this State heir of all. Juft before the Church ftand three tall mafts of mips upon curioufly wrought Pe- deftals of brafs, and each maft bear- ing, upon great dayes, a ftatcly flag and ftreamers.Thefe three mafts fignify the three nobleft parts of the Venetians dominions , towit the Kingdoms of Cyprus ■> and of Candy, aud the ftate of Venice. In this Fiazza I found alwaies a world R r 4. • of 2?« big h Steeple. 404 The Voyage of ftrangers perpetually walking and talking of bargains &traffiek, as Greeks, Armenians, Albanians, Slavonians, Polonians, Jewes, and even Turks themfdves i all in their feveral habits, but all confpiring in this one thing, to fell dear, and buy cheap. Here alfo they have every night in fummer, a world of Moniibankj, Ciarlatani, and fuch ftuflf,w ho together with their drudg- es and remedies 3 ftrive to pleafe the people with their little come- dies, puppet playes, fongs, mufick, fiories, and fuch like bufifonnerie.Its firange to fee how they find dayly either new fooling, or new fools, not only to hear them, but even they throw them money too for fuch poor contentments. In this Tiazza alfo ftands the C*rn- f anile, or high fteeple of Venice , diftant fome fifty paces from the Church of S. Mark. Its built forty foot fquare on all fides, and two hundred and thirty fix high. The top of it is covered with gilt tiles, which in a Sunfhine day, appear glorioufiy afar olf. The founda- tion O f Italy 405; tion of it is almoft as deep under- ground , as the top of it is high- above ground i a wonder, if you confider that it ftands in Venice* From the top of this Campanile we had a perfect view of Venice under us,and of all its neighboring Iflands,, Forts, Seas, and Towns about it j as. alfo of the outiide of S. Markj Church, its Frontifpice, its Cupolas, and the four horfes of brafs gilt which ftand over the Frontifpice. Thefe horfes came out of the ihop,. not out of the (table of Lifippus a famous ftatuary in Greece-, and were given to Nero by Tiridatcs King of Armenia. They were carryed by Cmjianiin the great from Rometa Conjiantinople i and from thence, they were tranfported hither. In fine, from the top of this iteeple, we faw the compais of the great Arterial of Venice, which looked like a. little town in our fight. Indeed foreie make it three miles, about '-> but I cannot allow it fo much. The fight of this Magazin. of war afar of^ made us haften down from the ileeple to go fee it. nearer hand. Rr 5 9> Hbt/rfe- ttal. The Voyage 9. Taking therefore a Gondola, we went to the Arfenal, where after the ordinary formalities of leaving our fwords at the door, and paying the Porters fees, we were ad- mitted, and led through this great (hop of Mars. Its fo well feated. near the ^ea fide, and fo well built , that it might (erve the Venetian Se- nators for a Caftle in time of dan- ger: and in it there is a well of fjrefh water not to be poyfoncd, becaufe of two pieces of Vnicorns horn fet faft in the bottom of it. X-confcft, I never Taw any where fuch Occonomic as is here cbferved. Fifteen hundred men are dayly. employed here, and duly payed at the weeks end, according to their feveral employments and works. The cxpences of thefe workmen amount to a thou fan d Ducats,cvery day in the yeai : fo that they snake aecompt that they fpen'd in " this' Arfenal' four hundred & thirty tboiifaud crowns a Veai f Enough e4ty army coriftentlfc yoVkmin'here and that very O F Italy very good too , but that it is a littie mingled with water. WC were led through all the vaft room 3 of this Magazin , rooms like vaft Churches. In one of them I (kw nothing but great oars for Gallies, feven men going to one oar. la another, nothing but vaft (terns. In another, nothing but vaft nails for Gallies and Ships. la another, they were making nothing but Salt- peeter for gunpowder. In another they were catting great Cannons, Morter pieces, and Chambers. In a- nother they had nothing but a pair of vaft Scales to weigh Cannons with. In another Mafts for Gallyes and uY'ps of a prodigious greatnels and length •, and yet of fucha rare timber, that one filliping upon one end of them, you here i{ eafily at the other end, by apply- ing your ear to it. Some of thefe malts are worth fourlcore pounds. In other vaft- rooms I law ftore of Cannons of all fizes both for Ships and Gallyes : where alfo I faw fomc Turkilh Cannons v, ith words upon them in the Turk* m 4o9 The Voyage i'fli Language. There I faw alfo one Cannon fliootwig three mots at once : another five * one great Cannon found buryed inCandyhxW of gold medals : the great Cannons caft here while Henry the III of France dined in this Arfenal. They had heretofore a prodigious quan- tity of Cannons here, but now thefe rooms are much emptyed by reafonof this war with the Turks, In other great rooms I faw huge heaps of Cannon bullets of all fizes, with fome Enfigns won over the Turks. Then mounting up into the Chambers above, I faw in two vaft rooms, arms foi fifty thoufand men. In another,arms for twelve Gallies i In another, arms for fifty Gallies. Here alfo I faw the fuit of armour f>f Seanderbeg : that of the Doge Xani '•> the Lanterne of Von John of Aufirias fhip in the battle of: Lepan- to : the Lanterne of a Turkifh Gaily: the armour of Bajamante Tbeopoli & his complices, with one arm only : fome arms taken from the Turks in the battle of Lepanto: other arms taken from the Gtnuefi-, a great Crofsbow Of Italy $c^ Crofsbow, (hooting vait arrows of iron above rive quarters long : an invention of great ufe before Guns were found out. A Cannon bullet with four long irons, like the tops of halbards , which flint up clofc into it when you put it into the Cannen, but open again of them- felves as fcon as the bullet is out of the Cannons mouthy & fo fpread- ing into four parts , cut all they meet, with Grange fury: a dange- rous invention in Sea battles, to fpoil cordage and tackling. Here alfo they (hew us the defcription of the town and fort of Clijfa, and how it was taken by the Venetians fome twenty years ago. Then de- fending from thence, we went to fee the places, where they make new Gallies,. and mend old ones. There I found a vail: fquare Court three hundred paces broad in every fquare and full of valt penthoufes capable of holding in them, Gal I yes of fifty paces long a piece. In the midlt of this Court is a vail fquare pond of water, let in from the Sea, where the new Gallyes are. tryed » 410 The Voyage tryed*, and the old ones are let into the Arfenal to be mended and ridged a new. Here Ifaw a world of Gallyes, and a world of men working about them moft bufily. There were heretofore divers of thefc great Courts full of Gall yes, but now they are much exhaust- ed 5 the Gallyes being abroad in war. Hence it is obferved that this Arfenal, before thefe wars, could arm 2®o Gallyes, and two hundred thoufand men. Here it was thst they made a Gaily, and fet her out at Sea while Henry the III dined here in the Arfenal i which made that King fay then,that he would give three of his beft towns in France ( except his Parla- ment towns/ for fuch an. Arfenal. Indeed the A rfenals of Pari*, Gf»tt.z, Zuric^ Naples. tkGeneva^ feemed to me to be little Gunfmiths Shops, in companfn,, of this. They were then making here two new Galleajfer C when- I was uft there ) of vail bulk and txj .c, r In fine I faw here the old Bmcntoro > & prefently after the new Bucentcro. This laft is O F Italy. ^ri is the Galley of ftate, of the Doge, when he goeth forth upon the Afcenfion - cfey accompanyed with the Senate,~to efpoufe the Sea as they call it here. This is a noble Gaily all gilt without, and wain- fcotted round about the deck-,"with gilt feats. There runs a partition of wood quite along the Deck of the Gaily, with feats on both fides and with a low open roof of wood, to let in air, and yet keep off the Sun •> and all this is gilt and painted, and capable of five hun- dred Senators, who in their fcarlet robes , wart upon the Do^e mat day. The Doge fits in the Pxppe, in a Chair or" State, with the Popes Nunc ?d on one hand' of him, and the Patriarch of Vttice or the other, and a plate for "mufrck behind them. The Haves are all under hat- ches , and not (cen at all : but their oars , ( t vvenry on r-ach fide) move all at once like great wings which make the Bucmtofo move moll mjcftically. And this is all, that I can remember in this Arfenal except the cellar of wine, and the great I 412 The Voyage great rooms , ( as I came out ) where women only are employed in mending old faylsj and men (apart ) in making great cables : and indeed thole vaft Anchors which lye near the wooden bridge here at the entrance, ftand in need of cables of thegreatelt iize. The Af-* lq«. I happened to be at Venice fenfa. thrice, at the great Sea Triumph, or feaft of the Afcenllon, which was performed thus. About our eight in the morning, the Senators in their Scarlet robes, meet at the "Doges Pallace', and there taking him up, they walk with him proceilio- nally unto the flioar, where the Bu- eentoro lyes waiting th"irii the Popes Nuncio being upon his right hand, and the Patriarch of Venice on his left hand. Then afcending into the Bucentoro, by a hand fume bridge thrown out to the (hoar, the Doge takes his place, & the Sena- tors fit round about the Gaily as they can, to the number of two • or three hundred. The Senate being placed, the anchor is weighed, and the flaves being warned by the Capitains O f Italy 413 Capitains whittle and the found of trumpets , begin to (hike all at once with their oars and to make the Bucentoro march as gravely upon the water, asiffhealfo went upon cioppini. Thus they fteer for two miles upon the Laguna, while the mufick plays, and lings Ep'ubala- miums all the way long, and makes Neptune jealous to hear Hymen called upon in his Dominions. Round about the Bucentoro flock a world of Fiottas& Gondolas-, richly covered over head with fumptuous Canopies of filks and rich (tufts, and rowed by watermen in rich liveries, as well as the Trumpeters.Thus for- rain EmbafTadors, divers noblemen of the country ,and (hangers of con- dition wait upon the Doges Gaily all the way long, both coming and going. At laft the Doge being arri- ved at the appointed place, throws a Ring into the Sea, without any other ceremony, than by faying : Uefponfamus *<?, Mare* in fignurnptr- fetui dominii . Weefpouje thse* OSea, in Tefiimony of our perpetual dim'mion over thee : and fo returns to the Church 414 The Voyage Church of S. Nicolas in Lio(an Ijtand hard by ) where he affifts at high Mais with the Senate. This done, he returns home again in the fameftatej and invites thofe that accompanyed him in his Gaily, to dinner in his pallace : the prepara- tives of which dinner we faw before the Doge was got home. This ce- remony of marrying the Sea, as they call it, is ancient: and per- formed yearly in memory of. the grant of Pope Alexander the III, who being reftored by the Venetians unto his Seat again, granted them power over the Adriatick Sea, as a man hath power over his wife > and the Venetians to keep this pofTeflion , make every year this watery Cavakata. I confefs, the fight is ftately, and a Poet would prefently conceive , that Neptune himfelf were going to be marryed to forne Nereide. ii. Having (een this Ceremony thtCorfo in the morning, we went after atMura - dinner to fee the Evening Cer/o at Murano, where we faw thofe fine Gondola* and Piottat, which we had feen O F I/TAL Y 415 feen waiting upon the Tfoge'm the morning , now rowing in fiate up and down the great Canak ok Mu- ratio to the found of Trumpets - , and with all the force of the brawny watermen that row them. Some- times meeting too thick in the arches of the wooden bridge here, J they crack one anothers Gondolas ', break one anothers oars, over- turn ther boatmen, and are ftopt for an hour together without being able to untangle.Embanadors them- felves of forraign Princes appear in Gorfo this evening with all their bravery (five or 'fix Gondolas all in one livery) as well as all the gallants arid gentry of Venice^ who appear here this evening at Corfo. 1 2. The next morning no foon- er appeared , but new fights ap- peared too, and now upon land, and the Scene was S. Mar\s place, where the Fair opening this day, and laftingfor ten dayes, drew all the galhnrsof Venice to come, and behold all the gallantry and riches that either domeftick, or torreign merchants could fet forth to fail. But I 'the Fa'r» 416 The Voyage But the mod part of the young Ladyes that came to fee the Fair, came in an odddrefs, with a falfe nofe, and a little beard of black wool, difguifing their mouth and nofe i fo that they could fee all the Fair , and be known to no body. Thus they go often to mar- riages, and other affemblies when they have no mind to be known. 13. Having thus feen "thefe fore- S.Gtwges faid fights, we went on with vi- fiting the other things in the town, and one day we went to the Ifland of S. George Mzjor^ where we law a itately Monaftery, Church, Cloifter, & Garden, which take up this whole Ifland. The Church is one of the beft in Venice^ and built by Falla- dio the famous Architect. In the Church I was fhewn the great filver Lamp, as great as two men could carry. In a pillar of marble ltanding over a fide Altar I was fhewn the picture of a Crucifix, which was difcovered, at the po- licing of this ftone, to have been naturally in the Vein of the mar- ble. In the Refectory , I fa w an ad - mirable Of Italy 417 mirable picture of the fupper of Cana in GaliUa , made by Guido Rbeni. I vifited itoften, and could never fatiate my eyes wimfuch a rare piece. It takes up the whole end of the great Refectory. 14. From thence we rowed to the pallace of Proctcratore Nam web The palace ftands in an Ifland beyond S.Geergej. |£ r B /Cj The Pallace is richly furnifned„;. with the true pictures of many mo- dern Princes and Ladies of France, England^nd Germany. This pallace, hath one ftran^e thing belong- ing to it, beyond the pallaces of Venice: towit a neat garden, for gardens in Venice^ areas wonderful things, as Coaches: and I cannot remember that looking upon the whole City from the top of the high fteeple, I faw two places where there were any green trees. But the belt thing that 1 (aw here, was the Procuratore N,mi himfelf, the grcateft Ornament of the Venetian Senate, whofe learned pen hath already given us an excellent hiltory of Venice. 1 5. From hence we walked to Tht cap»* the cins - 418 The Voyage the CapuciMs convent which is in the fame Ifland , and Church neatly built, and far above the rate of Capnc'ms > but it was a vow of the Senate in time of the plague * and they regarded more, in build' ing it, their own honour than the UMdouna Capucins Simplicity. di Salute 16, From hence returning again towards the town we (leered our Gondola to the Church of Madonna di Salute, a new round Church , vowed by the State in another plague time, and likely to be one of the fineft churches in Venice when it (hall be ended. In the Sacrifty I faw a rare pi&ure of a feaft by tin- tor et, and others in the roof by litian. 17. From hence we went to the La Gm7« Church of the Cano Regulars,called La Caritajn whofe Mon artery Pope ' Alexander the 1 1 1, lay hid privately like a poor Chaplain of this Church, unknown to the very fathers of- this place, till at laft he was dis- covered by a devout Pilgrim, who having feen him often in 'Rome t ■ and hearing him fay mate here, difcovcred Of It alt 419 difcovered him to the Senate, and Co he was both acknowledged by the Senate, and defended by them, as we faid above. Over the entrance of the Quire, is Teen the pi&ure of Alexander the III receiving the Emperour Frederick^ to the killing of his feet, by the means of the Doge of Venice , who ftands by. Here's alfo a good picture of our Saviours raifing up Lazarus again to life : its of the hand of Bajfan. 1 8. An o*her time I went to the ss.Gio - Dominicans church,calledS.Gwztf»we vanne ® & Faulo where I found among Pauht • the tombfiones, that of the Lord Henry Aubigni ( fecond brother to the Duke of Lenox and Richmond ) who dyed here in his travels. Be- fore the door of this Church ftands the E<jucjlris itatue in brafs gui^t ofBartolomeo Coleone Bargamenfe a great C6mander,to whom ( as the words bear,e& militate imperium opti- me giftum)- the Senate decreed this flattie to be erected. The Taberna- cle and altar are very (lately. The Chappel o(S.Hiacintb,8c the miracles of 4-20 The Voyage of this Saint are of the hand ofBaffan dcPalmarino. TheMartyrdo oiSdohn & Vaul is a Mafterpiece of the hand of Titian. The convent alfo of S. John and Fattl is one of the molt iiately ones in Italy. The r«fed:ory is famous for pamting. S.Sahn- 19- The Church of S.Sahatore tore. is a fair Church and well adorned with neat tombs of divers Vogzs and great perfons. Upon the back of the High Altar is feen a picture of the Transfiguration, of the hand of litian. Upon anAltaronthc right hand of the wall is api&ure of the Annunciation, under which Titian wrote thefe words, 7'itianiis ficitjfccir, to alTure men by this double affirmative, that it was a good piece, worth his twice own- ing. There's another picture of the Lift Supper, made by Tt\ims Matter. Upon the EpHile fide of the High Altar ftand$ a little Chappel, over whoje i^lfar is the tombcf S. Theodoras with his body in it. He is one of the Patrons of , , this town. toil.' 20. In the Church o(S. Cbryfo- Of Italy 4»* ftome I faw upon a fide Altar on the left hand, the itatues in ilonc of our Saviour and his twelve A- pohMes , neatly cut by TuUm Lom~ bardus, whofe rare ftatues adorn al- fo S. Antonies tomb at Padua, His ftatues are eafily known by the neat hands. 2 1. In the Church of the Apoftoli I fa w a rare picture of S. Lucie, but now fome what old. 22. In the Church of the Jefuits I faw the tomb of S. Barbara Vir- gin and Martyr. 23. In the Eomo(the Cathedral of Venice, but (landing much out 2 ^ 2? "*» of the way) I faw little confide- rable but the tomb of S. Lxurzntius Jufiimanus, a holy man , a great Preacher, and the firft Patriarch •of Venice: the Patriarchal feat of Grado, being removed hither in his time- 24. I faw alfo the Church of S. Jacomo , the firft Church that s.ijiomt was built in Venice, and built twelve hundred years ago in the infancy of Venice, as an old in- fcription here told me. Here are S f • fome lie Greeks Church, 422 The Voyage fome good pictures of Lanfrancus, and Marcus litianus , old Titian* nephew and fchollar. 2$. And being in Venice upon S. Georges day ( the 23. of April ) we went to the Greek Church , I mean to the Greek fchifmaticks Church, which is dedicated to God in honour of S> George, and there- fore this day was one of their great- eft folemnitics. Their Ceremonies and Service differed little from the Catholicks Greeks : and if anyone dellre to know their tenents, and how near they come to the Roman Catholicks, let him read a book in a thin folio Printed at Witiemlerg an : 1584. under this title, Atta & [crista Iheohgbrum Wittembergcnfium & Hieremis Patriarch*. Ikejews 2 £ vve went after dinner one Sa- turday to fee the Jews Synagogue. Among other things I heard here a Rabbin make a Homily to his flock. He looked like a French Minirter, ; or Puritanical Lecturer, in a fliort cloak and hat. The (hilling through 1 the nofe made all the editica- j tion that. I faw in it: It was in Italian Mnrano* OpItalt 4.23 Italia??, but the coldeft difcourfc that I ever heard in any language* Indeed it was their Sabbath day > & they eat no other meat that day, but cold meat. •7. An other day we went to tie €Ufi Mura??o again to fee the glaft hufes at houTes which furnifh almoft all £«- rope with drinking glafTes, & all our Ladies cabinets with looking glafTes. They utter here forth two hundred thoufand crowns worth a year of this britle ware* and they feem to have taken meafure of every nations belly and humour, to fit them with drinking glafTes accor- dingly : For the High Dutch, they have high glaffts, called Flutes, a full yard long , which a man can* not drink up" alone except his man, or Tome other, hold up the foot of this more than two hand* ed glafs. For the Englifh that love toafts with their drink, they have curious Tankards of thick Chryftal glafs, juft like our filver tankards. For the Italians that love to drink leifurely, they have glafTes that are almdft-as large and flat SC 2 as ihtjhtyi 424 The Voyage as filver plates, and almoft as un- eafie to drink out of. And fo for other nations. In one (hop they were making a fet of glaftes for the Emperor, of five crowns every glafs : They were drinking glafTes with high covers made like fpread eagles, and finely gilt. Sometimes lo (hew their art, they make here pretty things. One made a (hip in glafs, with all her tack- lings, guns, maits, fails,& ftreamers. An other made an organ in glafs three cubits high, fo juftly contri- ved, that by blowing into it, and touching the ftops it founded mu- fically. A third made a perfect Caftle, with all its fortifications, Ramparts, Cannons, Centry fcioufes, & Gates.HerealfoI faw them make thofe vaft Looking glafTes, whofe britlenefs fheweth Ladies them- felves,more than their reflecftio doth. In fine, in Murano you fee the Pallace of Signer Camillo Trevifano with the rare garden&fountains a la Romans. 28. After this we went up and down the Town of Venice fometimes a foot, to fee better the Shops O f Italy 425 (hops, as thofe of filks, cloths of gold, of books j and the Apothe- caries ihops,where I faw them make their famous Treacle : fometimes in a Gondola, to view over and over again, the Canale Grande, and the brave pallaces which hemm it hi on both fides : fometimes entring, into the beft of thofe pallaces, to fee their rich furniture and contri- £%« p*/. vances. The beft are, of JnJHniani,Uees. Mocenigo, Grima.ni, Priuli, Contari- ni, Fofcoli, Loredano,. Gujfoni, and Cornaro: 29. Then I enquired what lear- ned men had adorned Venice, and The Lear - I found thefe to have been the »«<* "»"••. chief, hautmiim Jujlinianut, Hermj- laus Barbarufy Petrus Btmbus, Aloy- fins Lippomanus, Paulus Partita, Bap' tifta Egnatius, Ludovicus Voice, Paa- lus Manutius, with divers others. I faw (bme years ago the noble and ingenious Lwe^«o,whofe witty books make him famous overall, the Academies of Italy and Europe. As alfo the Proem Aton Nani whofe. excellent Hiftory hath got him mv mortal fame. 8f*3 30. Heres I iht Aca- demy of wits. iheWflo ti'UKSm fhsJXe- fetls of Venice. Vadux, 426 The Voyage 30. Heresan Academy of wits cal- led Incogniti&nd for their arms,they have the river NHhs with this met- to i Incognito ■, etpnr noto'. unknown, and yet famous. He that defires to know the hiftory of Venice^ let him read An- drea. Morafi?ii,Paolo Paruta, Sabeilico, Bernardino Tomafino , Corido, and Nani. Having thus feen all Venice, over and over again, in a months flay there, I was moft willing to leave itj having found it true of Venice, what Socrates faid of Athens, that it was meiior m?retrix, quam uxor > a fine town for a fourteenight j but not to dwell in alwaies; and this by reafbn of fome /linking chan- nels, bad cellars for wine» worfe water > and the moift air of the Sea not the moft wbolfome > iearcity of earth even to bury their dead in > and little fewel for firing. So that finding the four elements wanting here in their purity , I was willing to leave thefe polifhed Hollanders , and return to Padua. Padua is the fegond town of the Venetian Of* Italy 427 Venetian ftate , though once the Mother of Venice, Its old enough- to be mother of Rome it felf-, ha- ving been built by Antenor, whofe Tomb is yet feen here. The Town ■ is very great , and fuller of good houfes, than of men of condition : tyranny, and two frequent murthers having much depopulated it , in point of nobility. It Hands in the Marca Trevigiana. The walls about it are ftrong, and backt up with fine ramparts. It lies near the Euganian Hills, in a fertile foyl , and plain, which makes the proverb fay: BAogna la grajfa, mi Padua la pajfa. Its famous for the ftudy of Phyfick , as many of our thrice worthy Phyficians in England can, teftify. The chief things I obferved in it are thefe. 1. Amenor's Tomb with Gotic\f *££"** letters upon it : which makes me doubt whether this tomb be fo an- cient as they make it. 2. The publick fchools called here II Bue , or Oxe '■> what if the firft Readers here came from Oxford , as they did to the Univerfity of ?a- via, SC 4. 3, The S. A»t»' nits Qburth, 428 The Voyage 3. The Phyfick garden, to acquaint the Students in Phyfick, with the nature of fimples. 4. The Church of S. Anto*y of Fadua, whofc body lies in the open Chappel on the left hand > and this Chappelis adorned with curious fi«  gures of white marble reprelemting the chief actions of this Saints; life. Under the Altar repofeth his bodyj and before it hang fome 27 great Lamps of Clver , or lllver gilt. Over againft this Chappel, (lands juft fuch an other open Chappel* called the Chappel of San Felice, which is rarely painted by famous GiettOy who made the Campanile of Florence. In a iide Chappel on the right hand a is the tomb of brave Gatta Mela, whole true name was Erafmo di Narm,o!iVi\\om more by& by .The Tomb of Alexander Contxreno General of the Venetians, and it is one of the beft cut tombs Ihave feen; Its fattened to a fide pillar. The Quire of this Church is all of inlaid wood. In theCloifter of the Convent are feen many tombs of teamed- men : and in that quarter of . Op Italy 429 of the cloifter, which lies upon the Church, Lfound written upon, a black marble ftone thefe words: Interior a c Thom£ Howardi Comitis A" rondelia'. The bowels of the Earl of Arondel , late Lord Marftial of England. No wonder if his bowels be enchafed in marble afters his death, who in his life time, loved marbles- con todaijus emranias, with> his whole bowels. His Marmora A* ronddiana^commmtid up5 by learned; Mt.Sddenfoew this fufficiently.This great man died here in Padua> and yet in a mannerat home •, becaufe he had made Italy familiar to him while he lived at home. 5. Going out of this Church I faw the Eynejlris ftatue of Gatta* Mela, the Venetians General, whofe Tomb I faw even now in the Church. He was nicknamed Gatta± becaufe of his watchfulnefs, in car- rying bufinefsv 6, The Church of S. Juftina iss. /«/?;.] one of the fineft Churches of. Italy>Ms\churcfr and no wonder, feeing its architect ® m °n<*" m&Vkhm Under thvvHigh Altar P er ?' of this .Churchy lies: buried, th» bod y, 430 The Votagi body of S. Jufiina. The fine Cup** las > the curious pavement of red & black marble jth erich High Altar all "/ of pktrt commeffe i the curious feats in the Quire, with the hiftories of the old and new Teftament cut in wood in them j the fine picture at the end of the Quire over the Abbots ^ Seat , containing the Martyrdom ^ of S. Juftina, by the hand of Paolo Veronejii the tomb of S. Luke the Evangelilt, & that of S. Matthias > the Well, full of Relicks v and the Tomb of S' PrcfiocbimHf S. Peter's difciple, and firlt Biihop of Padua , do all make this Church very con- fiderable. Before this Church, and fclonafiery, lies the Campo Sant» y and a fair field where they keep monthly a tnercato franco., and where the evening Corfo is kept, by Ladies and noblemen in their Coaches iii fummer. 7. The Monaftery here is aKo one of the faired in Italy, and the fe* cond of that Order. The painted cloifter, the neat Library, and the picture of S. JujHna in the A ; bats Chamber, nude by Paolo Veronefe, are Of Italy 43* are all worth your airiofity. The Vomo is not fo well built as it is endowed wkh rich prebendjries. A hundred thoufand crowns a year go to the maintenance of a hundred Clergy men, and officers belonging to it. The Prebends are 27, and or- dinarily gentlemen. 28. Tne pallace of the Cap'itam Grande is ftately without : here (lands the curious Library. 9. The great Hall called here,2*'.?«o* II Palagio di Ragione, is a vaft room H * Ux 1S0 paces long, and forty broad^ without pillars. It hath four great doors to it, and over every door the ftatue of a learned ?admn.Tb\$ Hall is alfo painted in the roof withaftronomical figures rcprefent- ing the influences of the Superior bodies over the inferior. At one end of it you fee a round ftone,with thele words written about it, Lapps oppro* brii^hefioneef difgrace^ upon which whofoever will fit publickly, and declare himfelf not to be folvendo x cannot be clapt up in prifon for debt. At the othe* end of this hall itands JJvfs head in white marble,. I 452 The Voyage <nd'out of a little back door tthere,, jpyning to the wall ©f this Hall , ftarids Livy's bufto in ftone, with:, this Epitaph under it in old Gothic^ letters •, OJfa liti Livii Patavbii w nins omnium mortaliumjudicio digni-, cuJMs prope invitto calamo inv'idi Po- pnHRomani rej geft<e coyifcribertntur. $./*• *°- Tnc P* 1( ^ ur e °f tne Hi g h A1 " gitjtmo* tar in the Auguftias Church, made by Guido Rbeni y and that of S. John Baptiji in the Sacrifty, of the fame hand are both cxquifitly weH done. 11. The mines of an old Amphi- VJrnts. theater are feen hard by the Augnf- tins Ghurch. Theres now a houfe built upon the place, yet the Court is oval mil, and carryes the name of Arena. Mere they tilt, and ufe other fports of Cavalry. i2.In the Vominicnns Church there is a very ftately high altar of Pietre tommejft. Behind the Altar ( in the Quire ) are the neat tombs of the Carari, once Sjanors andPiinces of ?adu a? till they were put eut by the Venetians, 23.. Ib S.Dtmi wit, O f Italy 43? T3. In the Church of San Fran- s fran ^ etfco Grande I (aw a curious - Altar otce'jco, white polilhed marble, which plea- fed me very much,and the tombes of Cavzlcante and Lonzolio. „ -r 14. In the little neat Church of so # C(W . the OratoritiMiCzlkd the Church of tmria, S. Ihonw of Canterbury, lyes buryedi the Lady Katberine WmwhaU\ in a vault made for the nonce , and covered with a white marble ftone- She was daughter to the late Earl of Shrewsbury^ and wife to the Noble and Vertuous Tbo- mas WbitenbattEfquire. If you would know more of her read here the ingenious Epitaph written upon her tomb, and made by her fad huf- band, For my part, having had the honour to fee her often in her travels, I cannot but make ho- nourab'e mention of her here in mine *> She having fo much ho- noured my profeflion of Travelling by her generous humour of Travell- ing. She was as nobly born astbt- boufe ^/Shrewsbury could make bet', as comely, as. if Poets bad made her* tier behaviour was fuch^ that if Jhe bail The 4c»- demies of nuits 2he le am- id Men. 434 The Voyage bad not been noble by birth, Jht would have puffed for fuch by her carriage* Her good qualities were f) many, that if they had been taken in pieces, they Vfruld have m x de fever al rvomm Noble, and Noble ye men happy. She was wife beyond her yeares *» Jiout aho-ve her fix i and worhy to have found! in the wrld all things bat :r than fh<e did y except her Pi rents and Husband- Her onelyfjult was that, which wouidhave made up other Ltdiespraifes, ton much courage'ywh-ch befell her with the name of la! bet. But wbilfi her finely courage haled her.on to journeys above herjex andf'rceihav'inzfeenF landers, F ranee, avd Italy, accompanyed by her noble Husband, and ahandfome train in her return bac\ , like a tall pip , coming laden home and framhte iwith precious acqttijitions of mind, fhe fun\e alm>ji in tbf havm, and, alas ! Dyed. 1 5. Here are two Academies of wits \ the one called Gli Ricoverati : the other, Gli Infiammati? The molt famous men of Padua for learning , were thefe, Livy, Apponim-i Paulas the Jyr\ftauj$t , &per<mt. Of Italy. 435 Spero-ne Speroni,Antonius ^ueremhuT^ Jacobus Zabarella : and Tinan the fa- mous Painter. He that defircs to know the?*'^*- Hiftory or P^a; , let him read Angilo Portinan delt felicita.de di Padua : Antonio Riccobonoy de.Gynt- nafio Patavino, & de ejus pr<echrid dodoribus : as aXo the book called GT Origini di Padua. Having thus feen Padua r, we fleered towards Milan again , to make the compleat gyro of Italy. The firft daies journey was ^yj ce „ zl ,i ViceHza, a fine town belonging to the Venetians, and (landing upon the two rivers of Bacbilvw , and Rerone. Here we law , the neat Townhoufe and large piizza : the houfe and hue garden of Count Valmerana, with the curious Laby- rinth in the gardemthe Arcus 7 riuni- phalis made by Pahdio ac the townes end letting you into a fair field called the Champa Marzo , ^ t be*- where Ladies and Cavaiiers,in great uu ftore y meet at the Crfo in their coaches every fumm.r evening : the admirable Theater for playes and %%6 The Voyage OperasM Was madealfo by rare Palla- dio^nd is capable 'of three thou- land people, who may all fir., and fee with conveniency. The: fine pallaces here, and thofe full of peo- ple of condition. The Aw- Here's an Academy of wits called wZ GVOlympici, ibt hifioM He that defires to know the rUns, Hiltory of Vicenza, let him read lacovno Marzari) and Alfinfo Loj'chi. From VwnzaVK went to Vero- na^ called Verona la Mobile, be long- ing to the Venetians alio. It f Unds Verona, in excellent air , and no man ever, faw ;it but liked it- Its water- ed with the river Addefis , which coming out of Germany , runns by 'irmt and fo to Verona. Hence this town abounds with good provi lion, wines, and rich marchants : which makes me of opinion , that Vera-- na would be a better fummcr town for Grangers to live in , than Ya- dua. The things that I faw- here, , where thefe:The tkee C*/r/e.r, which with the new bulwarks make this town able to defend it felf agairtft a-? ny enemy,. 2 S O^ Italy 437 2. The Cathedral or Votno, an- cient rather than flately. In it is buryed Pope Lucius the HI, with this ingenious Epitaph upon his tomb : Luca dedit lucem tibi,Luti % ?onu{icatum Qfti*, Pfipatum R.ema, Venna mori. Into Verona dedit tibi Lucis gauditt, Komtt Exilium, turns Ofiia 3 Luca mori. 3. The famous tomb of the Signori della Scala, who once were Matters here , and from whom Jofep h and Julius Scaliger pretend to have come. This tomb is feen from the ftreet, and is much efteemed for its height and ftrudrure. 4. In the Monastery of S. George the rare picture of S. George made by Paelo Veronefe, for which the late Lord MarJhalofEnglandoffexcd two thoufand pifiols. 5. The tire dmphitheater >bui\t at fa Am- I firtt by the Conful Flaminius , and phitheater rapaircd llnce by the townefmen £ and now the moil entire amphuht- \. ; ater in Europe. Here's alfo an Academy of wits_, . called Gli Vbil^rmonicv. demy of The fkmoufeii men for learning wits 438 The Voyage here , were thefe : Zeno Veronenfu, J d " rn ~ an ancient Father and great Prea- cher. Cornellm Nepos^ F:my tbe /c- condjCaiuUm According to that, Matua Virgilio gaudet^ Veron* Catullo. Fracaftoms , Onu^br'm, Vanuinus , Vauhs JEmilwf the Hiftorian: Fran- cefco Pona » Alojfim Novarinus v and Paolo Veronefe , the ingenious Painter, Near Verona , upon the plains before you come to the town , was fought a famous battle, where C Marius defeated the Cimbers. Near this town alfo was faught a famous baitle between JbeodoricJ^ and Odoacer-, where the latter was defeated. He that defires to know the Zbt hift*. hiftory of Verona , let him read rians. fortHo Saraina, Girolarno di Corte Compendio dell' Ifioriadi Verona i» and tbekntiqultates Veronenfes of Onn- phritts TanuinuS' Ptfibiira. fr° m Verona we went to firefcia by the way of Tefcbiera and Vifen- zano. Tefcbiera is a ftrong Fort be- longing to the Venetians, and guarded Of Italy ^9 guarded by a conftant garrifon. It I ftands upon the Lago di Garda, La- Lago dt cusBenacus anciently, and isalmoft Gar * a *
furrounded byits Chryftallin waters.
Its a mod Regular Fortification, with rive B-iftions, and high Ramparts, which cover the whole town. Viftnzano is a little town upon £>if enta . the Lake of Gar da alfo. Here they no, have excellent rifti , and wine i that is, rare Carpiom , and muf~ catello) which they call Vino Santo, From hence after dinner, we Brejcia. arrived betimes at Brefcia^ another ftrong town of the Venetians. We faw here the Caftletfhe town houfe i neat Churches > the ramparts and walls ©f the town > the chryftallin Brooks running through the ftreets y and the (hops of the gunfmiths^fpe-p daily that of famous Lazarino Com- mmazzo, The beft Hiftori ans of the Bnfclan The H!/»- arTairs, is Qttavlo Rofli , in his book tor J' called Memoria Brefciana. From Brefiia I went once to Crem^dc Btrgam^tw® ftrong townes of the Venetians , and both iron- <>«»•• tiers to the State of Milan. The fail 440 The Voyage tergnmo.^ is ver y ftron g and famous for nne linnen made here. The latter is ftrong too , both by its Caftle , good walls, and its high lituation upon a hill , which gives you a fair profpe& into the Milanefe for twen- ty or thirty miles. In the Church. of the AugujUw lyes buryed Am- brofius Gakpinus author of the ex.- cellent LatinDiSi^r^which learn- ed pajferatins hath fet out iince with great additions. Itsin fix lan- guages. From Bergami I went to Milan r one days journey. An other time I went from Brefcia to Milan by the way of Mantua 3 and Mir an- dola. Mantua belongs to a Soveraign Duke, or Prince, of the houfe of Gonfague. It ftands in the midft of Marines which are nourished by the river Mincius i. Co that there's no coming to it but by two long bridges ever the Lake. And yet this town was taken fome forty years ago : no town being impregnable where an Affe laden with gold can enter > or where Mantua, Of Italy 44I where faction keeps cne gate. For about that time, the Emperors Ar» my, by fecret intelligence, pre- fenting it fclf before it , was Jet in •, and lacked the town* At the entrance of the town gates , they obferve the falhion of many other townes in Italy, to make Travel- ers leave their piftols and carabins at the gate where they enter , and pot lee them again till they meet them at the other gate where they go out ■■> giving them , for all that, a e'mttafi^m or tittle talley, whereof you keep one piece , and the other is tyed to your piftols , whereby you may claimeand challenge them. This is an ancient cuftcme in the Ro- mans times, as I rind in Valerius Maximus , who faith , it was the practice of thofeof MarfeWes fthen a Roman Colonic) ut bo/pitia fua, Ma ^im. qticmadmodum advmientihus bumana U% t t.\u fontjta ipfis ttttafint.PiS for Mantua it felf, its well built, and full of good houfes.Thc Dukes Palace was here- tofore one of the richeft of Italy. I was told that it had feaven changes of hangings The Dukes Family* His Reve- nues. His inter- efi. Cafal. His firengxh 442 T h e Voyage hangings for every room in the houie '■> befides a wqrld of rare pictures, Statues, plate, ornaments, cabinets , an Vnicornes horn , an Organ oiAlahlajier '■> fix tables, each one three foot long, the firft all of enter auds , the fecond of Turky (tones, the third of hyacinths, the fourth of Sapbyrs, the fifth of Amber , the fixth of Jafpar itone. But the Imperialifts fwept all away. The origin of the houie of Conji- cut is from Germany. For a long time they were onely Marquifes of Mantua, till Charles the. V. made them Dukes. The Revenues of this Prince are about five hundred thou- fand crownes. His Intereft fas that of the other klTcr Princes of Italy) is to joyn with the Wron- ger of the two Nations France, or ; Spsin. And he hath been often forced to put now and then a French garrifon, now and then a Spanijh g.nrifm into his ftrong town of Cafal, one of the (hong- eit places I faw in all Italy : hiv- ing an excellent Cittadd at one j end of it *, a ftrong Caftle at theo- ther O f Italt 443 [other, and ftrong citches, walls, and ramparts every where. In fine, rhis Duke can raife, about fifteen thoufand foot, and two thou- sand horfe. Of Mantua were thefe two ex- cellent Latin Poets •, old Virgil, an {modern Baptifta Mantnanus a Car- melit. He that defires to know the hi- \ ftory of Mantua 3 let him read Mario Aquicola. From Mantua we went to Miran- dola being invited thither by its ' wonderful name. It is a principality far more ancient than great \ and it is fo called , from three children born here of a great Lady, at one birth. The ftory as it is pretty , fo it is related by good authors, and therefore I will give it you here, in I the end of this my Italian journey , [as a fare well. And 'tis this. Cm- Jiamius the Emperor, Ion of Con* iftantin the great, had a daughter called Euridit '■> who being grown up in years, fell in love with Manfred a Courtier of her Uncle Conjlanihi^ a handfome well bred young Its team- ed Men. Its hiftory Miratp dola. Franctf- cus Pius. Leander. Mbatus. 444- ^ HE Voyage young gentleman. Manfred was both Courtier enough , and wife enough, to underftand this to be no fmall honour > and therefore embraced her affection with acor- refponding flame. In a word they meet often \ talk of it •, give mu- tual promifes i make all the money they can, and jewels, and flee away fecretly. They come into Italy , land at Naples, from thence to %j- venna » and atlaft pitch upon this country where now Mirandola flands. it was then a place overfpread with thickets and underwoods, andfur- nifhing fome pafUirage for (beep , and cottages for fhepherds. Here then they chofe to live privately 'andconverfe with none but coun- try fwains, and fhepherds. Blind love whither doll thou hurrey Princeflcs, to make them prefer cottages before Courts > At b ft with their money they buy land, and Manfred grows foon to that au- thority among his ntighborrs,that they choofe him for their head i and . rccurr unto him i'pon all occa- fions for his adv:ce and protection : In Of It Ait 445 In the mean time ( having fo. femnty marryed Kundk at his arri- al in Italy ) (he brings him forth hree fons at once , Tim* Fim » md Papazzo 9 and Manfred grows ar more coniiderable dayly in thefe parts. At laft the Emperor onfianiM coming into Italy upon lis occafions, and being compli- inented by all the feveral provin* !es thereof, this Province among he icft,chofe Manfred as their Em- >affador to thefaid Emperor,to car- fto him the tender of theirre- pe&s and homage. Manfred ac- epted of the employment, and car- red himfelf fo gallantly in the mbaffy, that the Emperor knight- id him, and upon further tryal of 11s worth rayfed him to high fa- vour. Manfred feeing the realities
f the Emperor, thought it now
iigh time to discover himfelf unto lim. Wherefore eafting himtelf ne day at the Emperor's feet, and egging his pardon, he difcovered limfelf unto him, and told him ns whole ftory , and adventures. T t At little 446 The Voyage At firft the Emperor , was a 1 troubled > but finding fuch frccedom "and gallantry in his carriage,°.,ming- kd with" fuch humble ingenuity in the confeflfon of his fauhlt i he not only pardoned what was s part, but pre Cent ly lent for Euriddi* and her children to come to himn, and live at Court with him. Tfmisdonc he makes Mw/JviCouflt andd Mar«  fluis of a great part of thefe^ coun tries, and gives him lieve too builc towns and catiles there : annd foi his arms gives him the black 1 Eagle In fine, in memory of thee threj children born fo wenderfullyy at on] birth, he commands that thhechie town After (hould the be called hMirandt death of Conftfrantiuf Manfred and his Lady returneed wit great riches unto their old dvwellinj place , and there began tcto buil< Miranda, which in proceft cof timj was called Mir andofa, This trurue /tor if it look like a Romance, yc/ou mui not wonder -> feeing Romancces noi adayes, look like true ftoriess. The Prince of Nlvcandoh I receivi yearly fourfcore thoufand ccrownd Th Of Italy 447 The greateft ornament of this [country ,was that famous Joanuesfi- 3^tUm %ut Mirandulanm whofe life SMo-f™*^ ^as Moor wrote, and having writ- ten it ,lived it. From MirandnU I ftruck ta Tarma, and fo to Pwce»«<f, Lw£,and Marigno, defcribed all above > and atlaftto Milan again, where I had been before, and where my giro, of Italy ended,as now my Journey and defcription doth. I taking here a new rife from Milan, and croffing I through Smjprland by the Lake of I Ccnw, and over mount S. Godart, came to Bajil. Where embarking upon the Hhwe, I faw Strasbourg^ UrifaC) Sphe? fhilipbourg^Ofenhemy Ceblentz*fJamerjlede,ff / 'orfnes- > FraHC- \furt , Mayence ,' Cehn , VnJJeldorp , Skin^fconce, Ran, Weftl, Arnehem and divers other Rhenifh townes, Then having viewed Holland and Flanders-,1 came at lalt to GalaU,zn& fo home to my own Dear country England, by the way of Dover. FINIS, a table: OF THE NAMES OE THE CHIEF TOWNES x Contained in this; fecondpart* m ,/~\Albano. 361 c* 306 Caeta. 2 £* Atriida?. 2*59 Capua. 26* Anconj. 3 5© Campania. 2^7
Affifiimi.
32 I Carigliano , Riveu 1 Aveifa, 26$ 266 Cafel. 44 2 & Catholica. Ceravalle«  25* • Baias. 2^7 Cefena. 35^ ! Kergamo. 440 Crema* 43* i Biecia, 43^ Cuma»
    • t 3,
D. K. IDifenfano. 43? Kingdome eff Na- E* X pies 207 Kingdomc of Cy- Elifian fields. a?8 prus. 373 r. L. facnzs. 556 LaLaguna. ^ 362 Fano. 351 Lacus Avernus.^02 Ferrari £ 357 Lago di garda.^9 EolignL f 321 Lorefo. ^^ 322 forli. 555 formiar. a*2 M. BF offa Nova* 25? FarfcatU 3 07 Macerata. <„ 322 fundi. 260 Mantua. v. 440 Marino. 459 €* Minturna 266 Mirandola. 443 Sandulfd> 307 Mola. 262 Grotta dell Cane. Mons Mafficus. 267 2J» Monte Falco. 321 (Grotta di Pofilipo Monte Garo. 267 afo Murano. 423 N. Naples.. 269 Narni, 3 1 8. Padna Pal ma Nova PaufilipusMt. Peperno. Pefaro. Pefchiera. Puzzolo. «-^ R. Recanata.^ Rimini. / „.-■ Rome. Ruigo, Rubicon, Ri v. Scnegallia. Spoleto. 5i9 Sulphatara. 295 426 T. ' 375 29oTaracina. 25> 259Terni. i^ 319 352 Tyber^RLv. /^ 318 438Tivoli. - 315 296 Tolcntino^dx^ 321 Tres Tabernse* 259 V. 322 354 Veletri. ./*•' 259 3.&C Venice. ,-■■' 363 &c. |6i Verona v : 436 355 Vefuvius, Mtt 284 ViaAppia*-'-' 261 ViaFlaminiaA, •317 Vicenza* 435 55 1 SPECIAL 93-6 )8G3 THE GETTY CBfTER tfc'


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