From The Art and Popular Culture Encyclopedia
Voyage or a Complete Journey through Italy (1670) is a book by Roman Catholic priest Richard Lassels.
Full text[1]
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THE
V O Y AGE
OF
1 1 AL*,'
OR
A Compleat Journey throngh
I T A L Y
In Two Parts.
With theCharaffersot the Teeple, and the
Defcription of the Chief Towxs^Churches,
JMonafterie* Tombs, Libraries P all ace s^
Villa SiGardcns, Piclures t Statues, and
Antiquities.
AS
Alfo of the Intereft , Government , Picket >
Force , &c. of all the Princes.
With Inftruclions concerning Travel.
By Richard La f( Is , Gent, who Travelled
through Italy Five times, as Tutor to fe-
veral of the Englijh Nobility and Gentry.
- - ■ — r «
Never before Extant.
Newly Printed at P dm, and are to be fold
in LoncLon^ by John Starkey, at the Mitre
in Flcet-ftrm new Temple- Ban, 1670. .>
}
r ■ A
»v-:r."
TO THE
IGHT HONORABLE
AND MOST TRULY NOBLE LORD
ICHARD
LORD LUMLEY
- OUNT WATERFORD
[LVIy LORD
It were needkffe to tell yon , by
how many titles this little Orphan
oo^ claimes the honour of yow
or dp proteSiion. Firji^ by the law
of Nature 5 its parent dying in your
[ervice ? yon ft and' bound to be a
foBer- father to it \ again it havino
been my fortune to contribute fointhing
to the bringing it forth to light 3 ii
hath a new relation to you under tin
title by which I have long agoe com
fecrated all my endeavours to your
fervice. But to pafs^by thefe two \
there is yet a third reajon^ whereby
it will appear, not the effeSi oj
choife, but of necefsity, that it fhonla
€ome forth under the favour of your
name: The well grounded experience
which you have gained in your\
trayehy the exatt and judicious
account you are able to give of the
places you have feen , which makg
a great part of the fubjeSi of thii
lookj the mature judgment of the*
interejisoffiates y and manners ofi
people whereof it treats, which ut
you is not the aji.rfruit of age j
the Gentile and courteous behaviour
which you have acquired, and ntbicb
charmes all thofe who have the honour
to converfe with you : Thefe, I fay,
\re vertuesfo peculiar to your Perfon y
hid Jo conspicuous in the eyes of all
the world , that the defign of this
Boohjbeing to form the like in thereSl
of the Gentry of our "Nation that pre-
tend to travel , Jt would be a wrong
o the publicly to let it appear under
he Patronage of any other than of
him that is the Idea of an accompli-
shed and confummate Traveller. And
this-) I doubt not y was the Keafon, why
he Author having had the honour to
haye been a Governour to fo many of
he flower of our Gentry, made choife
of your LordflAp to bequeath this
wor\ unto, by his laH Will and Te-
stament : And which impojeth upon
me a necefsity, both in comply ance to
the memory of my worthy friend and
fellow traveller, and to the duty I owe
unto your Lord/hip , by the honour I
have to fucceed unto him in his lad:
engagement , to offer up this his laji
work^to you, as an eyerlajiing monu-
ment ofefleem and gratitude, of him ;
who while he lived ever was, and of\
him who living ever is 3
MY LORD
Your Lord/hips moft humble
& moil obedient fervent
s, wilfm
H
A TABLE
OF THE NAMES
OF THE CHIEF TOWNS
MntAwed in
this frftpart.
A.
Boffena*
242
Briare.
32
r A Iguebelle.
JLAAiguebellet
69
Briga.
6*
Mr.
66
C
! Aix.
42
Alexandria.
103
Caprarola.
247
ApenninsMts.
154
Caffale.
103
Aquapendenee.
241
Caftelfranco.
141
Avignon,
38
Chambery.
67
Cenis. Mt. ?
70
B.
Coire.
57
S.Baume.
43
D.
Beauvoyfin.
66
Berlin. Mc.
58
Devedra.-
Bologna,
1
141
Domodofcela.
6S
F.
M.
Florence.
iS5
Marfeiies.
Fontainbleau.
27
Marguzzi.
Fort- Urban.
140
Marignano.
S.Maurice.
G.
S. Maximin.
Milan.
Geneva;.
48
Modena.
Genua.
&2
Monrferrat.
Monrargb.
I.
Montefiafcone.
Mosterofa.
SJohnMorian.
69
Montmelian.
Ifcre Riu.
68
Murat.
L.
H
1 Lake of Geneva
49
Never.
L'^keof 3olfena.
243
Novalefe>
Lakes of Woilinftadc
Novi.
and! fee.
59
Lake Major.
65
P.
L;fneburg.
69
1 Lauf nna.
S-o
Parma.
-Ligorne.
2?2
Pavia.
Lodi.
Piacenza,
r Lucca.
225
Piemont.
Lyons.
3.2
Pife.
Piftoia.
225 T.
JPo. Riv.
7 2
[Poggibonzi.
235 Terrara.
32
Pone S. Efprit.
38 Ticinum.l
1 05
Pougues.
32 Tortona.
104
Tournon.
38
R.
Turin.
72
Radicofino.
241 V.
ilegio
238
, Riviera di Genua,
82 Valance.
25
Roanne.
3 2 Valtaline.
57
Valerians,
59
s.
Veij.
250
Vienne.
38
1 Sampion. M.
63 Viterbo.
246
I'Savona.
80
1 Savoy,
76 Y.
1 Sefto.
66
1 Siena.
23 S Yflbnne.
2S
iSion.
61
1 Soleurj
$2 z.
1 Splug.Me.
58
Ih'-Jf'.
71 Zone.
5!
A PREFACE
TO THE READER,
CONCERNING TRAVELLING
HEN I firfi fet pen ta
Paper to handle this fub-
jecl^ I had not the, leaft
thought of the Prefs j nor
of erecting my felf into
| an Author. / enly difcharged my me-
\mory hafiily of fome things which I
\had [ten in Italy; and wrapt up that
| untimely Embrio in five fbeets of pa-
per , for the ufe of a noble per/on, Vcho
jet me that task^ Yet this Embrio tike*
ing the per/on for wfam it wdf con-
ceived y obliged me to licJ^ it over and
over again , and bring it into better
form- Second thoughts, andfucceeding
voyages into Italy, have finifhed it at
lafl •, and have made it what it is-, A
com pleat Voyage, and an exact Iti-
- nentry through Italy.
■And here I thought to have draw»
a bridle
bridle and refted, after fo long a jour-
ney ; when a learned friend having per-
ufedthis my Defcription ofltd\y,defi-
redmuch to fee a Prefaces it of my
fafhion, and Concerning Travelling. /•
could refufe nothing to fuch a friend ;
and have done it here willingly, both for
my own, avid my Country es fake.
For my own fake^ to pre-excufe fomt
things in my book^ which fome perchance
may di (like.
For fome, I fear, will quarrel ^ith
my Englifi, and jufily, feeing three long
voyages into Flanders, fix into France,
five into Italy, one into Germany, and
Holland , hath made me live half of
my life time in forrain Countryes, to
the difturbance of my o\W language ,<
Tet if /bring not home fine language,
bring home fine things : and I have feed
great Lady es, both in France. andEnT
gland , buy fine things of Chimneys
{Weepers, and Pedlars, that ft kf but
courfe Lombard language , and grofl
Stozch.
Others perchance will find fault, thai
J write merrily fometimes : Jndwhi
mot ? Seeing I write to young nen, and
f or them •, and mirth is never fo law-
ful as in Travelling, whire it fbor*
tenm
wslong miles, andfveeetens badufage-,
hat is, makes a bad dinnergo down,and
bud ho>rfe£o on.
Othenr mil fay, That J fill my book^
vith too much Latin : But thcfe muft
<e minded, that I am writing of the La-
in Country ^ and that I am carving for
Scholars ( who can difgeflfolidbitts t ha-
ving gooxdjlomacks.
Others mil fay, I jeer now and then i
Andw>»vild any man hauemego through
r o many divers Countries , and praife
all I fee- f Or in earnefi , do not fome
things defcrve to be jeered f wben things
cannot b>e cured but by jeering, jeering
faith Tertullhn, is a duty ^ and I
thinks the Cynick Pbibfophers ftruck.
as great a bloVv at Vice , as the
Stoicks.
Others will fay, I change fiile often 7
andfom,etimes run fmoothly, and fome-
times joftingiy ; Trm t [ travelled not
alwajes upon (mooth ground, and pact"
ing horfes : SwifTerland and Savoy
are mpdeh different from Campania
and Lombardy • and its one thing to
defcribe a Pleafanc Garden, an other
thing to> defcribe a v enerable Cathe-
dral : and if in j he one, and the other,
we have fever al lockes ; much more
a ij ought
ought we to have fever al words in de- j
Scribing them.
Others Will fay, I affeil a world of ,
exotic^ words not yet naturalized in
England: No , 1 a feci them not-, I
cannot avoid them -, For who can/peal^
of Statues, but he mufl Jpcak of N>-
ches ^ or of Churches ;. Wrought ,
Torobes, e> inlay d tables ; " but he
mufi sf)eal^ofCoupQ\3.s.; of bafti nli-
cvi -, and of piare commeffe ? if my
man under ft and them not^ its his faulty
not mine.
Others will fay, J hunt too much af-
ter Ceremonies, and Church antiqui-
ties. No^ I only meet them. And as a
man cannot Jpea^of Hercules, but he
mufl ffeak^of dubbs/if combats, of La-
bours, and Vkioriesifo I cannot Fpeah^
of Rome the Chriflian , but 1 mvft
ffeah^of Relicks, Ceremonies, and Re-
ligion. Yet I believe, I give my Rea-
der a full draughty too of prophane anti-
quities, Mafcarades, Shews, dreffings,
Wpatiimes.
Others, in fine will fay , i hat I do but
a thing done already ; feeing two others
have writ ten of this Subject in Englifll.
Well ; if others have Written upon this
fubjecj, why may not I ? They did the
befi
beft. they cottld,! believe: but they drew
not up the Ladder after them. The
one Writes much of Italy, and f ales ^ ar "
little : the "fither Vorites little and lea- CU P'„
veth out much -^ which I impute to the M * ^ a V"
ones writing out of old Geographers , monCl -
long after he had been there : and to
the othtrs fiort flay in Italy, Vchen
he was there. And if thefe ingenious
gentlemen have painted out Italy in
bufto 0/^/7, and profile^ why may not
J paint her out at full face, and at her
full length? If they, Ukf antient Sta-
tuaries^ have represented Italy unto m-
like a naked ftatue ; / have fet her
out in all her beft Attire ; and Jew-
els. And thus much for my own
fake.
For my Countryes fake; To read
to my country-men two profitable Lef-
fons. Thefirft, Of the Profit of tra-
velling. Thcfecond, Of travelling with
profit.
I. For thefirft, to wit, the Profit of
Traveling , its certain , that if this The pro-
world be a great book , as S. Augu- fit of tra-
ftine calls it , none ftudy this great veiling.
Book/o much as, the Traveler- They
that never ftir from home , read one-
ly me page of this Book ; and like
a iij* the
the dull fellow in Pliny , who could
never learn to count further then five,
they dfteM alWayes upon one Lcffon,
They are Iks an acquaintance of mine >
who had alwayes a bonk^ indeed lying
open upon a Desk^\ but it was obferved
that it lay alwayes open at one and
the fame place , and by long cuftome t
could lye open no Cohere elfe. He then
that toill k?ow much out of this great
JBook^, thefVorld, mufl read much in
if. and as Ulifles is fet forth by
Homer as the Vcifeft of all the Greci-
ans, btcaufe he had travelled much ,
and had jeen mulcorum hominum
mores & Urbes , the Cittyes and
Cuftomes of many men : fo his fan
Telemachus is held for a very JhalloW'
witted man : and Homer gives the
reafon } becaufe his mother Penelope,
inflead of fending him abroad to fee
forrain Countries, had alwayes kept
him at home , and fo made him a
meer Onocephalus, and a homeling
Mammacuth. So true is the faying of
Seneca , that Imperitum eft animal
homo, & fine magna experientia re-
rum, fi circumfcribatur Natalis foli fui
fine.
2 Travelling preferves my young no-
bleman
bleman from furfeiting of hit parents,
and Veeans him from the dangerous
fondnefs of his Mother. It teacheth htm
whole fome hardship • to lye in beds that
are none of his acquaintance ; to ffeak^
to men he never Jaw before • to travel
in the morning before day •, and in the
evening after day • to endure any horfe
apd weather^ as well as any meat and
drinks whereas my Country gentleman
that never travelled , can fcarce goto
London without making his Will , at
leafi without wetting his hand-kerchief.
-And what generous mother will not fay
to her Son with that Antient} Malo c enec<
tibi male efle , quam molliter ; I
had rather thou fhouldfl: be fick , then
fofc. Indeed the coral -tree, is nei-
ther hardy nor red % till taken out of the
Sea , its native home. And I have
read that many of the old Romans put
eut their children to be nurced abroad
by Lacedemonians nurces, till they
were three years old j then they put
them to their Uncles, till [even , or
ten; then they fent them into Tofca-
ny to be inftrulied in Religion • and
at laft into Greece to fludy philo-
sophy.
3 . Travelling takes my young noble*
a iiij m&»
Sen?c.
man four notches lower, in his felf-
conctit a,nd pride. For , whereas the
Country Lord that never faw any body
but his Fathers Tenants, and M- Par-
ion, and never read any thing but John
Stow, and Speed ; thinks the Lands-
end to be the Worlds-end ; and that
all folid greatncfs , next mto a great
Pafty, cenfifls in a great Fire, and a
great eftate. whereas my travelling
young Lord , who hath feen [o many
greater men, and Eflates than his own,
comes home far more modefi and ci-
vil to his inferiours, andfarr lefs puft
up with the empty conceit of his own
greatnefs. Indeed nothing cured Al-
cibiades his pride [o much , as to fee
in a Map {{hewed him for the nonce
by Socrates ) that his houfe and lands,
of which he was fo proud , either ap-
peared there not at all, oronely a little
fpot or dab ; and nemo in pufillo mag-
nus.
4. Travelling takes eff^ in fomefirt,
that aboriginal curfe, which was
laid upon mankind even aimed at the
beginning of the World-, I mean, the
confufion of Tongues : which is fuch
a curfe indeed , that it makes men ,
who arc of one kind, and made tobefo-
ciaklc
a'able, (b ftrangely to fly we mother \
that as great S. A#ftin faith, A man
had rather be -with his dog, than with
a man whofe language he underftands
not. Nay, this diverfity of Language*
makes the wifeft man paffe for a Fool
in a ftrange Country, and the beft maw,
for an excommunicated perfon , whofe
eenverfation ail men avoid. Now,
traveling tak^s iff this curfe, and this
moral excommunication ; by making
m learn many languages , and con*-
verfe freely with people of other Coun*
tryes,
5. Travelling makes tit acquainted
with a Vvorld «f our kindred we never
faw before. For , feeing we are all*
come from one man at firjl , and con fre-
quently all a kin to one another j its but
a reafonable thing , that a man fbould
ince at haft in his life time , make a
journty into forrtin Coutries, to fee
his Relations, and vifit this kindred ;
having alwayes this faying of young
Tofeph in his mouth -, quaero fratres
raeos.
6, Traveling enables a man, much
for his Countries fervice. It makes the
merchant rkh, by fhtwing him wh<t
abounds,
abounds , and wantes , in other coun.
trjes j that fo he may know what to im-
forty what to export. It makes tht
mechanick come loaden home with
world of experimental knowledge fori
the improving of his trade. It makes\
the field officer, a knowing LeadeA
of an Army, by teaching him where am
Army in forrain Country es , can\
march fecurely, pafs Rivers eafily, in-
iamp fafely , avoid Ambttfcadoes and\
narrow pajfages difcreetly, and retreat
orderly. It makes the Common Sol-
dier play the Spy Well, by making Un
ffeakjhe enemies Languague per feci:'
iy , that fo mingling with them , he
may find their defigns, and cr&fs their
flats. In fine , it makes a Noble-
man fit for the noblefi Employ-
- tent 9 that is , to be Ambafftdor
■abroad for his King in forain Coun-
try es ^ and carry about with him his
Kings perfon', which he reprefents ,
And his Kings word , which he enga-
ge^.
7. Travelling brings a man a World
of particular profits. It contents the
minde with the rare difcourfes we
bear from learned men, as the jQueet*
of Saba was ravijked at the ypifdom
6 f Salomon. // make/ a wifeman
much the Wifer by making him fee
the good and the bad in others > Hence
the wifeman faith j Sapiens in terram
alienigenarum gentium pertranfiet:
bona enim & mail in hominibus ten-
tabit. It makes a man thinly himfelf
at home every where ,. and fmile at
unjufi exile : It makes him wellcome
home again to his Neighbours,
fought after by his betters, andliften-
ed unto with admiration by his infe-
riours. It makes him fit Hill in his old
age with fatisfatlion ^ and travel over
the world again in his chair and beef,
by difcourfe and thought r. In fine , its
an excellent Commentary upon hifto-
ries i and no man underftands Livy
and Caefar, Guicciardin *»^ Monluc,
like him, who hath made exablly the
Grand Tour 0/ France, and the Giro
of Italy.
8. Travelling makes my young No-
bleman return home again to his Coun~
try like a blefijng Sun. For a4 the
Sun, who hath been travelling about
the world thefe five thoufand and odd
years, not enely enlightens thefe places
Vphich he vifits; but alfo enrich-
ith them with all forts of Fruits ,
and
and mettafs: fo t the Nobleman by
long traveling, having enlightened his
underftanding with fine notions, comes
home like a glorious Sun ; and doth
not onlyjhine bright in the firmament
«f his Country t the Parlament houfe;
but alfo blejfeth his inferionrs with
the powerful influences if his knowing
Sfiirit.
9- I» fine , Examples ( the befi
Ihilofophy ) Jhew us , that the grea-
tefi Princes Europe hath feen , thefe
many years , to wit , Charles the V.
Strada de and the King of Sweden , Guftavus
idloBelg Adolphus , were both ef them great
Travelers - t the firfi had been twice
in England , as often in Africk , f$ur
times in France, fix times in Spain ,
/even times in Italy, and nine in Ger-
many : The feconA had travelled in-
cognito (as M. Watts Writes of him)
into Holland, France, Italy, and Ger-
many in his youth: which made
him fay afterwards to the French
Ambaffador Marefchal Breze , in a
kind of threatning way , that he
knew the way to Paris, as well as to
Stockholme. Adde to this, that the
Tcsifeft and greatefi among the antient
fhilofopheis , Plato, Pythagoras,
Ana«
Anaxagoras , Anacharfc , Apollo-
nius, Architas, and Pjttkcus, whit/h
lafi left his fupream Command of
Mytelen to travel ) were all great
travellers ; and that Sf.Hjerorne (who
being no Bifhop, and 0nfequentlj not
obliged to refidence) having travelled
into France, Italy, Greece, and the
Holy Land, purchafed to him/elf fuch
rare acquifitions of Learning , by his
travels and Languages , that among all
the antient Fathers and Do&ors, the
Church in her Collect en his day, calls
him only, Do&orem maximum , the
greateft Doctor. And fo much far the
profit otTra veiling.
Now for as much as concemes the The Tra-
fecond LcfTon, to wit, the Travelling yelling
with Profit , divers things are to be wkhpro-
taken notice of—fome h the Parents of fie,!
-thofe that travel ; others by thofe them-
selves that travel : of all chichi will
Jpea^ briefly-
As for the Parents , their greatefi
care ought to be of providing their
children ( / ffeak^ to men of high con~
dition ) a good Governour , to travel
with them, and have a care of their
Perfons, and breeding : that is , tlay
the fart of the Arcuangel Raphael
te
to young Toby, and Lead them fofc
ab oad, and bring them fafe home :
Ego fanum ducam & reducam filium
tuum. Tob. 5. v. 20. -And here I
could wifh indeed that Parents could
be m happ] in their choyce , and finde
men Angels for Governours to their
children^ upon condition they Jhould re~
quite them , as ymng Tob:e offered to
requite the Archangel his Governour,
whom he took. t0 be a man. For the
education of Children is a thing of that
high concern to the Commonwealth y
that in this , Parents Jhould tfarc
no coji whatfoever^ but rather imi-
tate the old Lacedemonians , who took,
more care of their youth, then of any
thing elfe in their Common-wealth- in
fo much that when Antigonus asked of
them fifty young youths for hofiages, they
anfwered him-, that they had rather
give him twice at many made men.
Seing then ysung youths are the future
hopes of families , andCommonVpealthf,
their educatkn ought not to be commit-
ted but to men of great ipaxts and ex-
cellent breeding. For Imhe alwayes
thought , that a young Noblemans train
ought to be like his Clothes ; His Lac-
quees and footmen are like bis Ga-
lofhoos,
lolhoos, ^hich he haves at the doors
ofthofe he vifits: His Valets de Cham-
brc, are like his night goVvn , which he
never ufeth but in his Chamber - 9 and
leaves them there when he goes in vi-
fits : His Gentlemen attendants, are
liks his fever al rich futes , which he
wears not all at once , but now one, »oW
an other ', and fometimes none at all of
them : His groorae is like his riding
cloak, and never appears near him
but upon the road: But his Gover-
nour is like his fhirt , which is all-
wajes next unto his sk[n and ptrfon-,
and therefore as joung Noblemen are
curious to have their thlttsofthe fineft
linnen : fofmtld they have their Go-
vernours of the fineft thready and the
befi ffun men that can be found,
Hence the ancients as they were care-
full in honouring the Memory of thofe
that had been Governours to great
Heroes, as of Chiron, Governour of
Hercules, Jafon, Paris, Achilles, and
ether brave Heroes; Mifcus Governour
»/UlyiTes -,,.Eudorus 0/ Patroclus -, Da-
res c/Hedlbr^Epitides if Julus,Con-
nidas of Thefeus ; aS of them choyce
men : So they were bt choofmg the rar
reft men for that gnat employment 9
to
a good
Gover-
nor-
to be their children* Governors ; that
is in their Language, Cu {lodes & co -
mites juvencutis Principum & magna-
tum. For not every honeft and vertu-
ous man ( as feme Parents thinly)
is fit for this employment ^ Xhofe parts
indeed wculd do \\>ell in a Stuard and a
Solicitor; but many things elfe , be-
fides thefe y mufi concurre to wake up a
The fha- &°°^ Governour. / would have him
ra&er of l ^ m t0 ^ e mt cne ^ a Vertmns man ,
but a Virtuofo too . not onely an ho-
neft man^ but a man of honour too : not
onely a gentleman born , but a gentile
man alfo by breeding : a man not onely
comely of perfon by nature-, but grace-
ful alfo by art in his garbes and be-
haviour : a good Scholar, but no meer
fcholar : a man that hath travelled
much in forrain C ountryes ^ but yet no
fickle- headed man : a man of afioht fpi-
rit y but yet of a difcreet tongue , and
who knuwes rather to wave cfuamls
prudently , then to maintain them ft ent-
ly: a man chcarful in converfation ,
yet fearful to offend others : a man of
that prudence , as to teach his Pupil
rather to be wife then witty; and of
I that example of life , that his deeds
I may make his pupil believe bis words :
in
in fine, I Would have him to be an En -
gli(hman,»(jftranger. J sfeaknotthis
out of an envy to ft rangers, but out of
a love to my oWn Country men. For I
I have knoton divers £ng!ifh- gentle-
men much wronged abroad iy their
Covernours that Were Strangers,
Some I have known that led their pu-
pil to Geneva, where they got fome
French language, but lofi all their true
Enghfh allegiance and resell fo Mo-
narchy ± others, I have known who ,
being married and having their fettle-
mem s and intereft lying at Saumur,
kept young gentlemen there all the time
they were abroad-, and madv their Pa-
rents in England believe , that all good
breeding was in that poor l ow» y where
their wives were breeding children.
Others , / have known , -who having
their miftreffts in the Country , per-
fwaded their young pupils , men of great
birth, that it was fine living in a Coun-
try houfe, that is fine carrying a gun
upon their necks and walking a foot^
Others have been obferved to fell tleir
pupils to Matters of exercifes, and
to have made them believe, that the
worfl Academies were the beft , be-
caufe they were the beft to the cunning
Cover-
Governour, Wh» had ten found a
man for every one he could draw thi-
ther: Others I have known who Would
have married their Pupils in France ,
without their Parents knowledge • and
have facrificed their great trus~l, to their
fordid Avarice. Others 1 have known
who have locked their pupils in a
chamber with a Wanton woman , and
taken the Key away with them.
Nay, this lean fay more , that of all
thofe (hangers that I have known
Governour-. to young Noblemen of
England (and I have known feven or
eight. ) / never kneW one of them to
be a Gentleman born • but for the mefi
fart, they Were needy bold men, whofe
chief parts were , their own language
and fome Latin j and whofe chief
aime Was , to ferve themf elves , not
their pupils.
But to return again to our fubjefl,
the Parent having found out fuch a
Governour for his Son , as We have
defcribed here above, he muft reftgn
over unto him his full Authority, and
command his Son to obey him : other-
wife let the Governour be the Wifefl,
and the msfi compleat man in the
world, if his pupil do not obey him,
and
And follow his Counfel , all will go
wrong. I have feen great difordtrs
befall for want of this. Hence I have
often thought of great Clemens Aiex-
andrinus i who faith Veifely , that
our Saviour Chrirt is the onely true
Pedagogue, or Governour, bccaufe
he can not only give the be ft InftruEli-
ens to young men , but alfo can give
them grace to execute thofe inftruflions :
"whereas other Governours (CafTandra
hkf ) telling their Pupils many excel-
lent truths, are not believed by them •
nor can they force their, inclinations to
execute them, except the Parents com'
rnands come in to their afp fiance '. and
it is but reafonable,that as Governours
are the Seconds of Parents, in the bree-
ding of their children, (o Parents fhould
fecond Governours too, in making their
children obey them. Andfo much for the
Parents Care,
For the Sons care, itmufi be this,
lirfi to take a view of England before
he enter intoforrain Country es. This 1V/7/
enure him to travel, to fee company, to
cbferve towns and rarities and fharpen
his appetite for forrain curiofities. I
would wifh him withall in traveling
ever England, to fall in, as often as he
can,
urn, With the Judges in their Cir-
cuits , not onely to fee how his Country
is gov 'erne 'din point of judicature ; but
alfo to fee the gentry of feveral Coun-
try es, who fiock^to great Towns in the
Afiiize week. Jt would be alfo pro-
fitable to him^ to cafl to be at all tie
chief Hovk-;accs , where he will ea-
fily fee alfo the gentry of the feveral
counties in a compendious View; Ha-
ving thus feen his own Country in a
Summers (pace, and having got his
Majefties Licence to travel beyond the
Seas (in which Licence / could wifb
this claufe 'Voere inserted , That [all
young gentlemen Jhonld at their return^
prefent them/elves to his Majefty , to
give him an Account of their Travels
and obfervations) J would have him*
depart England about the beginning of
October.
2. At his going out of England ,
let him take his dime right • that is ,
let him aime altogether at his profic ,
and not at his pleafures onelj. /> have
k*o\\>n many Englifh-rnen who for
nant of right aiming . y have miffed
the white of breedings whole heavens
breadth. Forfome in traveling , aime
at [nothing but to get loofe from their
Parents,
Ptvents, or School matters , and tt
have the fingering of a pretty allow-
ance • and thefe wen when they come
into t- ranee , care for jeeing no Court,
but the Tenifcourc ; delight in feeing
no Balls but Tennis-b Us : ; andforfake
any company, to tofs whole dayt's to-
gether with a tattered Marker in the
i ripot.
Others defire to go into Italy , oxe-
ly becaufe they hear there are fine Cour-
tifafies in Venice ^ and, as the f$ucen \
of the Amazons, in Juftin, Voent
thirteen day es journey out of her Coun-
try , onely to have a nights lodg-
ing with Alexander the Great , fp
thefe men travel a whole moneth toge-
ther to Venice, for a nights lodging
ifithan impudent woman. And thus
by a falfe aiming at breeding a-
broad , they return mth.thofe dtfeafes
which hinder them from breeding At
home.
Others travel abroad, at our fliip-
boyes do into the Indies : for while*
thefe boy es might bring home Jewels,
Pearis , and many other things of va~
lew , they bring home nothing but
firecanes , Parocs , and Monkien •>
fo our young Travellers, rphiles they
, might
might bring home many rich obfer vath
ons, for the governing themfelves, and
ethers , bring home nothing but Fire-
canes, that is, a hotffur humor , that
takes fire at every word, and talks of
nothing but duels, feconds, and efclair-
cijOTements : or elfe parots, that is ,
come loaden home With ribans and fea-
thers of all colours like p.irots, and with
a fety borrowed complements in their
months , Which make them talk^ like
parots: or elfe Monkeys, thatis,fome
affetlc Scringes, fhrugs, and fuch like
Apifb behaviour.
3 . At his embarking let him bave
a ffecial care not to carry Himfelf
abroad with Him felt in traveling •
Many men , faith Seneca, return
home no better then they went out ,
becaufe they take themfelves along
with themfelves in travelling : and as
A man in & ft aver , findes himfdf m
better then he was , by changing his
bed ; becaufe he carry es his feavour
with him where foever he lyes : Jo ma-
ny young men return home tyred , and
dirted, but not better and wifer; be-
caufe they carry ed abrtah their bad cu-
fiomes and manners with thw> I
Would then that my young Traveller
Jjould
fhonld leave b'ehinde him all willful'
nefs , and flubbomefs ; all tendernefs %
andfeekjng hiseafe too much; all effe~
minatenefs and delicdtenefs -, all boy-
ijh tricks with hands or mouth, and
mocking of others ; all delighting in
bting the befi man in the company •
all familiarity with fervants , and
meanmen ; all Taverns, andintempe'
perancy of eating and drinking \ ha-
% : ng that faying of Seneca often in
hi? mouth and mind; Major fum &
ad Majora natus, quam ut raan-
cipium fim corporis mei : I am too
great a man, and born to too great
things, for to become the flave of
my body. In fine, 1 would have him
imitate that young gentleman of whom
S- Ambrofe fpeaks ; who returning
home from forrain travels , and meet-
ing -with his old miflrefs , a wanton
woman, fetmed not to know her ; whert-
at fie wondering, told him that /be
was fuch an one -, it may be fo , /aid
he , but I am no more I. A rare A-
potbigme; which J would wifh my
jourg Traveller to take for his mot-
to, as well as this young man for his
example.
4. Being thus got out of England,
its
its a. great queftion into what Country
he fhould fir ft go : t make his a bo Ad.
The common cottrfc is % to go- fir fl- into
France, and then into Italy t and fo
hame by Germany, Holland 'and Flan-
ders , at I did once : bat my opinion
if i that its better for a young man
to go fir ft into Italy , and returning by
Germany , Holland and Flanders ,
come into France, to give himfelf there
the I aft hand in breeding. And my
reafon is this » For feeing the inten-
tion of travelling, is to make a man
a wife man , not a finical man , 'its
better to feafon his minde betimes Veith
a ft aid wife breeding i then to fill it up
to the brim at firft , with a phanta-
fticai giddy breeding, which, having
once gotten pojfcffton of the minde ,
bolts the door on the in fide , locks' out
all ftaydncfs •, and makes my young
man delight in mtlnng but vanity ,
clothes, dancing, liveryes, bails,
and fitch meer out fides ■:■ I would
therefore have my young Ntblemans
Governour to carry him immediately
into Italy at fifteen or fixteen , and
there feafon his minde with the gra-
vity, and wife Maximes of that Na-
tion , which hath civilized the whole
world
world , and taught Mail Manhood.
Having /pent %Vco or three years in
Italy in learning the Language , view-
\ ing the ftveral Courts , ftudying their
Maximcs , imitating their Gentile
Converfation , and following theffoeet
Extrcifet of Mufick, Painting, Ar-
chitecture, WMathematicks, he will
at his return , know what true ufe to
- make of France. And having font
i three years more there , in learning to
Fence, Dance, Ride, Vault, Handle
his Pike, Musket, Colours, &c. The
Map , Hiftory , and Books of Policy;
■he will be ready to come home at
twenty or one and twenty , a Man
mofl compleat both in Body and Mind t
and fit to fill the place of his Call-
in?.
5. T fay, Make true ufe of France. What to
for I would not have my young be learnt
Traydkr imitate all things he fees done in France
i tn France , or other Foreign Country s+ and what
1 1 / would have him learn of the French not.
a hanifome confidence , but not an
impuatnt boldnefs. He mufl learn of
1 them to come into a Room with a
Bonne mine •, but not to rujh into a
\ Man: Chamber , as they do, without fo
- much 4s knocking at the Door- He
b mufi
mufl learn of them to dance well 3 to
get a good grace in walking and far
luting , at tbej do : but he mufi not
dance as he Walk* ' , as many of them
do. He mufi learn of the French } to
become any clothes well ; but he mud
not follow them in all their Phantafii-
cal and fanfaron clothings. He mufi
learn to fence well, as they do; but I
would have his [word Bick^f after in
the fcabbard than theirs do. In fine,
J would have him open , airy , and
gallant , as they are ; but not affecting
to be the Gallants of all Ladies, as
they do.
What in &° %n * ca ty > ^ would have him
holy and ^ earn tQ make a fine houfe ^ but I
wharnot would not have him learn of the
' Italians to keep a good houfe. He
may learn of them to be fober , and
wife : but I would not have him
learn of them to be jealous and di-
ttruftful. / would have him learn of
the Italians , to receive thofe that viftt
him, with great civility and refped •
but I would not have him fiand upon
all their little forms and incommodi-
ous punctilio's. / would have him
to be free of his Hat , as they
are : but I would have the heart
to
n go to the Hatf 3 as well as the hand.
jn Germany / would have him What in
learn to offer a mdn a cup of wine Germany,
at his coming in ; but I would not and white
have him prejfe fo much wine upon not.
him , as he flail not be able to go out
again , as they often do. I would
have him learn of them to go freely
to warre for the defence of his country;
but I would not have him learn the
cuftom of thofe vendible fouls there ,
Vi>ho carry their lives to market , and
ferve any Prinee for money. / like
well their flaking hands with you 9
when you firfi enter into their hou-
fes •, but I like not their quarrelling
with you for not fledging a health
of a yard long , which would rum
yours. 1 like very much their fw-
guUr modefly and chaftity , which
allows not bafiards to be freemen of
the most ordinary trades : but I like
not their endlefs drinking in feasts ,
which is able to make them freemen
of all vices.
Jn Holland alfo 1 would have What in
him learn to keep his houfe and Holland >
hearth neat > but Jfyould not have him and wkac
adore his houfe , and Band in fuch not.
aVce of his hearth « as not to dare to
bz
make
make* fire initial they do. 1 would have
him learn of them , a /pare diet - 9 but
1 Would not have him drint^fo much y
as would keep him both in good djet
and clothes, as they do, J would have
him learn of them their great indufiry
and (economy : but not their rude
exalting upon Noblemen ftrangers in
their Inns , for their Quality's fake
tnely , as they do. J would have
him learn of them a Jingular love to
his Countrey : hut he mufi take heed
•f their clotynijh hatred ef Nobility.
Thus in all Countrey s I would have
my yomg Traveller do, as men do at
a great beaft , where there is no fear
ef ftarving - y that is, not eat greedily of
all that 's before him, but fall to the beft
Meats , and leave the Worft for the
Waters
6. That he may follow the f ore f aid
Rule the better and pick^ont of every
Countrey what's the befi in it , let his
Governour lead him betimes into the
befl Company ■ for there the beft Lef-
fors are to be learned. Now by the word
beft , / do not mean the greatest men
in birth % but in parts. For the world
is not fo happy , as that the greatest
men are alwayes the beft : but by
the
the word bed 9 / mean thofe that
are the wife ft , the be ft bred , the be ft
•principled , the beft behaved , and the
moft cryed up by civil perfons : for of
fuch me A much is to be learned: Their
life is a perpetual Lecture } their
words fo many Oracles ; their difcour-
fesja many wife Maximes : and though
young men be not able to bring their
difb With them , and clubbe wit
equally with thcfe men , yet its a
great matter to fit slill in their com-
pany 9 and be a re [peElful catechumen
to them^ For if it be true which
Quintilian faith of thofe that love
Cicero , Ciceronem amaiTe, profeciflc
eft, its alfo moft certain, that a man
that loves good company r muft be good
himfelf in time.
7. And that he may be able to
appear in good company without
blufhwg , his Oovernour muft get
him , as foon as he can , to fpeak,
the Language of the place in hand-
fome terms 5 and with a good accent i
Next he muft have a care that he
be well adjufted and fet out in ap-
parel ; For if anciently Jewels Wf re
called the Ufhers of Ladies 5 becaufc
all Doors flew open to them that
h 3 frefentcd
frefettttJ. themfelves fo richly adorned',
fo note a daycs gord clothes may be
called Mens llflhers , feeing they make
way for them into all companies.
He muff; have a care that he knot*
his Congies perfectly , and have a
free garbe or carriage ; a Cavalier
7v ay of entering into a Roome ; a
grateful managing of his mouth and
fmiles ; a chironomy , or decent
ailing with his hands , Vvhich may
humor his words gravely and freely ,
jet not affectedly, or mimically : in
fine t a liberty or freedom in all his
actions , which the French call liber-
ie du corps ; and it mufi appear to be
a la negligence , and yet must be per-
fectly studied a-fore-ba»d» And
though thefe things be but the Ele-
ments and Alphabet of breeding , yet
•without them he can never fpell Gen-
tleman rightly , though his inftde be
never fo good. Indeed its long ago, that
great men dwell m more in thatched
houfes.
8. But it is not' enough to get him
into Language WGarbes , if he get
him not into Coach and Liveries,
Without which he can never appear
- t Court, w in good company % efpe-
cully
daily in Rome and Paris \ the two
chief Towns of long abode abroad. For
let a man be of a Knee as ancient as
the AutoAhenes of Athens , who faid Plutarch.
they were as ancient as the Earth ^
and lezt him quarter his coat of Arms
'With the three Lyons of England , and
the three Bower-de-lys of France , as
I know a gentleman of Little Britany
dot h , (by the grant anciently of both
thofe Kings) yet 1 dare boldly fay this,
that v,n Pans no colours blazon a mans
wbility behind his Coach fo much , as
three Lacquies and a Page , in a hand
feme Livery. In other 1 owns ^/Trance-
rohere young Gentlemen ufe to live,
at firjfl ■' till they get the language y a
couple of fadle horfes would be very
ufeful . 'dothtotahjithe airon , as alfo
to vl\v- the gentry in the Countrey at
their Summer Jioufes , Where a Man
Vi '11 find great civilities and diver-
fifements. 3e fides, riding out.fe in the
frejh evenings if Summer , will not
cnely wean mfyhing Gentleman, from.
little company ,-> and the- crowd of his
Count reym en j who will be then pre ffmg
upon him ; but will alfo afford his
Governour many fine folitary occafi~
ens of plying him alone with good coun-
b 4 felt
fels and inftru&ions.
9. And fee ing I have touched Some-
thing before of his Servants and Lac-
quaies, I will adde this , that feeing it
is none of the least blejfmgs of a young
Gentleman to have good Servants about
him, it belongs to his Governour , not
wtlj to choofe him good ones , but alfo to
have pofter to turn away bad ones.
Jidany men carry over with them En-
gl i(h Servants , becaufe they were
their School- fellow f , or their Tenants
Sons ; and thefe are little ufeful for a
long time , and even then when a man
hath moft need of Servants. BefifleS)
they are often too familiar with their
Mafters^ their old Play-felloes ; and
as often troublefome to their Gover-
nour*, by taking their young M afters
fart againft them ; and by ravelling
out at night 5 as they get their M afters
to Bed, all that the prudent Gover-
nour hath been working in the day
time. Others carry over Frenchmen
with them] but thefe often , by re af on
of their prerogative of Language ,
- tohich tbeir Mafters want at.firft , get
fuch an afcendent over them ^ that they
come oftentimes to be bold and fawcy
with them. Ftr my part ^ J Would
have
have lots Govemour to take himneVo
Servants in every place he comes to
slay . and tbofe fight ly , rather than
too fprightly youths : Dull people are
made to tugg at the Oar of Obedience %
faith Ariftotle , whiles witty people
are fittir to fit at the Wz\m of Com-
mand.
10.. But I am to blame to give
advice /oGovernours, Vphom I fup-
pofe to bewifermen thanmyfelf^ and
therefore will end here , by wijhing
them a good journey 5 and fafe return ?
To the ejfetting of both which , J found
no better fecret , than that in my laft
journey } which was to be mounted up-
on our own horfes {five of m together)
and t& [pare for no cofi • for by this:
means we went at our own rates
and eat to our own minds : fo true u
the Italian Proverb , Picole giorna i e
C g r andi fpefe , ti conducono farao al
tuo paefe.
In fae, I would have my young travel-
ler make the fame prayer to God, as
Apollonius Thyanaeus made to the
Sun at his going oat to travel, that
is , that he would be fo favorable to him
as to /hew him all the Braveft and B eft
Mmn the World.
b | THE
(I)
■>!tf 'o'Mq $£? *>m ?i» • ?S<? oE<> s£
SK»»apsaMiHii
THE VOYAGE
OF ITALY
Efore I come to a par-
ticular defcription of
Italy , as I found it
in my Five feveral
voyages through it,
I think it notamifsto
fpeak fomething in Genera! \ of the
Country it felf, its Inhabitants , their
Humours, Manners, Cuftoms, Riches,
and Religion.
For the Country it felf , it feemed The Per-
to me to be Natures Darling , tility of
and the Eldeft Sitter of all other Italy.
Countreys ^ carrying away from
them all the greateft bleflings and
favours , and receiving fuch gracious
looks from the Sun and Heaven,
that if there be any fault in Italy ,
it is that her Mother Nature hath
cockered
$ T H E V O Y A G £
cockered her too much, even to make
her become Wanton : Witnefs luxu-
riant Lbtnbardy , and Campania
antonomaftically Fcelix ? which Fit-
rut , Trogus , and Livy, think to be
the beft parts of the w®rld 3 where
Ceres and Bacchustft&t a perpetual
ftrife 5 whether of them fliall court
man the molt - (Be by filling his
Barns with Corn ; he by making
Us. Cellars fwimme with Wine :
Whiles the other parts of Italy are
fweacingout whole Forefls of Olive-
trees , whole Woods of Lemmorts, and
Granges y . whole Fields of Rice^
Turk} Wheat \ and Muskmillions ;
and where thole £are Hills , which
feem to befliaven by the Sun ? and
surfed by Nature for their Barren-
jnefs , are oftentimes great with child
of pretious Marbles r the Ornaments
<of Churches and Palaces , and the-
Revenues, of Princes : witnefs the
Trixceof Mafia, whofe beft Reve-
nues are his^ Marble Quarries : Na-
fnre here thinking it a far more noble
rhing to feed Princes 5 than to feed
tfheep* It abounds alfo in Siikj ? nd
Silkworms $ out of which they -draw-
Of I r a l V. S
a notable profit, and for the feeding
of them they keep a world of Mul-
berry trees , whofe leaves are the food
of thofe little worms ? whofe ex-
crement is our pride ; thus, Adam
like , we are clad in leaves again,
but leaves once removed. It's rich
alfo in Pafturage and Cattle , efpe-
dally in Lombard? , where I haye
feen Cheefes of an exceffive great-
neis , and of a Parmefan goodnefe
The furface alfo of the Eath is cover-
ed with many curious Simples and
wholefome Herbs : Hence fo many
rare Effences , Cordials, Perfumes y
Sweet Waters , and other Odoriferous
D'iftilipd&ris , fo common here ,, that
ordinary Barbers and Laundrcflfes
will fprinkle them in your Face and
perfume your Linnen with them over
and above your bargain, Hence none
of the meaneft things to be feen in
- Italy \ are the Fondaries fr Stilling
Houies of the Great Vuke of Flo-
rence , the Speciary or Apothecaries
Shops of the Dominicans of S.
Marco, and of the Auguftinstf S.j
\ Spirit o in Florence j of the Roman
- e ,. and of the Mww* °£
Tib
An ch]t'
[lion a-
gainfi
Italy. j
I
4 The Voyage
Trlmta de Monte in Rome : where
even death it felf would find a cure
in nature , if it were not a curfe from
the author of nature. In fine , it
excells in all kind of provisions,
either for dyet or fport ; and I have
feen in Rome whole cart-loads of
Wild Boars and Venifon , brought
in at once to be fold in the Market ;
and above threefcore Hares in Flo-
rence' brought in , in one day fey the
two Companies of Hunters , the
Piacevoli and Piatelli , on a general
hunting day.
- Yet after all this , fome cry out
againft Italy , for being too hot ;
and paint us out its Air as an un-
wholefome Peftilential Air ; its Sun,
as an angry Comet, whofe beams
are all pointed with Plagues and
Feavers; and the Countrey it felf , as
a place where ftarving is the only
way to live in health ; where men
eat by Method and Art ^ where you
muft carry your body fteadily , or i
clfe fpill your life ; and where there
are fo many Provincial SicknefTes I
andDiieafesj as the Catarrhs of Ge- ]
Of Italy. 5
ma , the Gout ot Milan , the He-
morrhoids of Venice , the Falling
Sickyefs of Florence , the Feavers
of Rome , and the (?e^?rf of P*W-
For ray part , when I am told , Anfaer'.
that there were in Times time ,
fourteen millions of men in Italy : Baltazar
when I read that there are now £ nifaci-
above three thoufand Cities in m i n fa*
Italy , and moft of them Cities of Ludicra '
Carbo : when I meet with National / >I3 cl +
Difeafes in every other Country,
as the Kings-Evil in Spain , the
Pox in Trance , the Confnmption
in Portugal , the Cholick in Eng-
land , the Djfentery in Gafcony, the
Head-ake in Toloufe , c£r. when I
refleft how this S»» hath blefled
Lombardy and made Campania Hap-
py : when I call to mind, that it
hath filled the Cellars of Italy with
above Thirty feveral forts of Wines:
when I remember , what health k
hath powred into feveral herbs here,
what admirable fruits it furnifheth
the Markets withal , what ornaments
it affords to Gods Houfes , overcruft-
ing
Sol& h^
mo gene-
rant hi'
tninem.
Plutar-
chus in
Gracch).
Balzac
in i.W.j
Liter.
The In-
habitants
and their
"Wits-
6 Thi Voyage
ting almoft all the chief Churches
of Italy r with exquifit marbles;
when I confider in fine , how this
Sun hath helpt to make (o many
brave Soldiers and Scholars , I dare
not fpeak ill of the Sun or Air of
Italy , leaft BaUac check me , as
Gracchus did him who fpoke ill
of his Mother , with a Tu Matri
mea male diets t quae, Tiberium Grac-
chum genuit ? Dareft thou fpeaf^ ill
of that Sun which helpt to make
Cafar?
Yes , yes , it's this great blefling
of God i rearm Sun^ which hath fo
throughly baked the Italian wits 9
that while (according to the obfer-
vation of Charles the V-) the French
appear not wife,but are wife^ the Spa-
niards appear wife , b>ut are not wife •
the Dutch neither appear wife, nor
are wife die it«lians\)n\y both ap-
pear wife , and are wife. Hence the
Italians anciently afforded us thofe
prodigies of wit and learning ,, and
fet us hofe fair Copies in Liberal
Arts and c ae.ices , which aH men
follow , but none attain unto fo
much,
Of Italy 7
mucin, as thofethat write the Italian
hand ; that is , the Modern Italians
them felves.
Fo>r if che Italians anciently had Poets An m
their Virgil, their Ovid, their Ho- cient and
race , their Perfius , and Profertius Modern
in Poetry , the Modern Italians in Italy,
fpur dofe up to them , and have
their Tap, their Petrarch, their
Sam*zarit4s , their Marina , and
Guarini.)
If the old Italians had their Saluft, Hifiort*
Xiyia Tacitus , and Valerius Maxi- ans,
mus inHiftory, the Modern Italians
have their Guicciardine , . Bentivo-
glio \ Bavila , #ra£» , aud Baptifta
Fregofusy furnamed the fecond Va-
lerius Maximus.
If the Ancient Italians had their Orators.
pompous Orators, their Cicero, Hor- Prodigies
ten fin* , Porcitts Latro, Jttnw Gallio, of Learn*
AhI'ms Fufcus, &c. The Modern ing.
Italians have their Panigarola ,
Man^ini, Varchi, and Loredano.
If the Antient Italians had their
Vaft knowing Varro , the Modern
Italians have their omnifeious Ba-
rotitis , who read almoft all that o-
ther men had written , and wrote
more
t>ivines.
^Philofo-
fhsrs,
Archi-
tects,.
1
Sculps
tors.
Painters.
Ancient
and mo-
de rwCap'
tains.
8 The Voyage
more almoft than other n*en can
read.
If the ancient Italians had their
Divines , writing of the Number and
Nature of their Gods , to wit , Varro
and Tuffy ; the Modern Italians
have their Divines too , their ini-
mitable S. Thomas of Aquin , and his
learned fecond Cardinal Cajetan.
If the ancient Italians had their
Philofophers, their Pliny, their Cato,
their Seneca , &c. the Modern Itali-
ans have their Ficinus , t.heir Cardan^
and their Picus Mirandula.
If the ancient Italians had their
rare Architects , Statuaries, Paint-
ers; the Modern Italians have their
Brunellefchi , Palladio, Fontana, and
Cronaco, in Architecture • their Ban-
dinelli , Donatello, Oliverio, and Ber-
nini in Sculpture •, their Raphael y
Michad Angelo ^Titian and Sarto , in
Painting.
If in fine , the ancient Italians
had their brave Captains , their
Scipio, DuUms j Marias , and Cafar-,
the Modern Italians have their
Scipio too , to wit , their Alexander
Farneje , whofe true aftions make
Romances
Of Italy. 9
Romances blufli , having done that
really s which Fables can fcarce
faign in galamry ^ their Duilim
I too , to wit , their Andrea Dona
the IV ef tune of the LigurUn Seas ,
who alone taught his Countrey not
toferve; their Marine z\to t to wit,
j their brave Caftruccio, who from a
' Common Soldier mounted up by
defcrts to the higheft Military Com-
mands in the Emperors Army j and
fo ftitched his fortune as he went a-
[ long to Honours , that it never ra-
velled out again , or failed him .•
In fine , their Ca/ar too 3 to wit, the
Marquis Spinola , or rather , the
Achilles of Italy 5 who took that
Troy of o fiend after three years
Sieged This Siege was far more
famous than that of Troy ^ becaufe
far truei*. For in the Siege of Troy
it was Poetry onely that made the
war , that framed and filled the
Wooden Horfe with Worthies ; that See Ver-
dragged Hetlor round about the ftegan in
walls ; it was Pen and Ink that his Refii-
killed fo many men fomno vinoque tution of
fepultot j and Troy was eafily burnt. Decayed
becaufe it was built of Poets Paper. Intelli-
But genet.
10 The V oy a g i
But at ofiend all was real , and all
Europe <almoft , who had their
forces , or eyes there , were witneffes
of it •, and all this done by Spinola an
Italian
The Ita~ As f° r tne Italian humor 3 it is a:
Han Hu- middling humor , between too much
vtour. gravity of the Spaniard, and too great
levity of the French, Their gravity is
• not without fome fire^nor their levity I
without fome fleam^ They are apifh
enough in Cameval time 5 and upon
their Stages , as long as the Vifard
is on ; but that once oa% they are too
wife to play the Fools in their own
Names, and own it with their own;
Faces. T hey have ftrong fa ncies 9 and
yet (olid Judgments ; A happy tem- \
per 3 which makes them great prea-
chert. Politicians, and Jngeneers ; buc ;
withal they are a little too melancholy \
and jealous : They are great Lovers of
their Brethren and near Kindred , as
the fir ft Friends they are acquainted
withal by Nature ; and if any of
them lie in pafs and fair for advance-
ment , all the reft of his Relations
will lend him their Purfes , as well
as
Of Italy. II
•as their Shoulders , to help him
up , though he be but their
jyouhger Brother. They are fparing
ill Diet, both for to live in health ,
andtolivehandfomly : making their
Bellies contribute to the maintenance
of their Backs , and their Kitchen
help to the keeping of their Sta-
ble, They are ambitious ftill of
Honours , remembring they are
the Succeflbrs of the Matters of the
the World , the Old Romans ; and to
put the World fUll in mind of it ,
they take to themfelves the glori-
ous Names of Camilla , Scipione ,
Julio ^ Mario , Fompeo, &c. They
are as fenfible alfo of their Honour,
as defirous of Honours • and this
makes them ftrickt to their Wives,
even to jealoufie , knowing that for
one Cornelius Tacitus , there have
been ten Publii Cornelii • and that
Lucius Cornificius is the moft affront-
ing man. They are hard to be plea-
jfed, when th y have been once red
(hot with offence ^ but they will
not meet revenge in the face , and
field • and they will r.itber hire it,
jthan take it. In fine, they aflfeft very
much
Their
Man-
ners.
12 The Voyage
much compounded names, as Pic-,
colominl 5 Cafiltipo , Bentivoglio 3
Malefpina ^ £ oncompagzo $ Malvez,-
- ,i , Riccobono , Mai ate ft a 5 Ho-
model 3 and fuch like married
Names.
As for their Manners , they are
moft commendable. They have
taught them in their Books , they
See Mm. P ra ^^ e tnem m tne ' r anions >
fanorCa- anc * ^ey ^ ave *P red t ^ em a b r <>ad
za ste- over a *' E Hro P e y which owes its
phano Civility unto the Italians y as well as
Guazzo ns R e ^gi° n - They never affront
Baltaz^ar ^ ran g ers m wnat Habit foever they
Caftirtio- a PP ear i and if the ftr ^genefs of
„ p the Habit draw the Italians eye to
it , yet he will never draw in his
mouth to laugh at it. As for their.
Apparel or Drefs , it's common-
ly Black and Modeft. They value,
no bravery but that of Coach and
Horfes and Staffers ; and they facri- j
fice a world of little fatisfa&ions to-
that main one of being able to keep
a Coach. Their Points de Venice ,
RiUans and Geld Lace , are all turned
into Horfes and Liveries •, and that
Money which we fpend in Treats and j
Taverns, ]
Of I T? A L Y. 1 2
Taverns , they fpend in Coach and
Furniture. They never whifper pri-
vately with one another in company,
nor fpeak to one another aloud in
an unknown tongue when they are
in converfation with others, think-
ing this to be no other then a lowd
whifpering.
i. hey are precife in point oF Ce- Their Ct-
remonj and Reception ; and are not remcmes
puzzled at all , when they hear a
great man is coming to vifit them.
There's not a man of them , but he
knows how to entertain men of all
conditions; that is, how far to meet,
how to place them , how to ftile and
treat them, how to reconduct: them,
and how far. They are good for
Nunciatures t Embajfies , and State
Employments , being men of good be-
havior , looks , temper , and dif-
cretion , and never out-running their
bufinefs. They are great Lovers of
Mttfic^ Medda/s 3 Statues , and J J i-
ttures , as things which either di-
- vert their Melancholy , or humor it :
and I have read of one Jacomo Rape'
., ro a Shoomaker of Bdognia , who
guhered together fo many curious
Meddals
Their
particu-
lar Cu-
flows.
14 The ■' Voyage
Meddals of Gold , Silver , anct Bra fs,
as would have become the Cabinet
of any Prince. In fine ^ they are
extreamly civil to one another, not
onely out of an awe they ftand in
one towards another , not knowing
whofe turn it may be next , to come
to the higheft Honours ; but alfo
out of a Natural Gravity and Civil
Education , which makes even School-
boys ( an infolent Nation any where
elfe) moft refpe&ful to one ano-
ther in words and deeds j treat-
ing one another with fcfira Signoria,
and abflaining from a|l gieco di ma-
no. Nay Matters chemfelves here ,
never, bea-t their Servant , but remit
them tojuftice, if the fault require
it, and I cannot remember to have
heard in Rome , two Women fcold
publickly, or Man and Wife quarrel
in words , except once ^ and then
they did it fo privatly and fecretly,
and fcolded in fuch a low tone , that
I perceived the Italians had r-eafon
about them even in the midft of
their choler.
As for their particular Cftftoms,
they are many. They marry by their
ears,
.of Italy. 15
Cars , ofrener then by their eyes ;
and fcarce fpeak with one another,
till they meet before the Parifli
Prieft, to fpeak the indifTolvablc
words of tt>ft//0d^They make children
to go bareheaded, til! they be four
or five years old, hardning them thus
againft rheums and catarrhes when
they fhall be old Hence few peo-
ple in Italy goe- fo warm on their
heads, as they do in France ; men in
their houfes wearing nothing upon
their heads but a little calotte ; and
Women for the moft part, going all
bareheaded in the midfl: of Winter it
£#. Women here alfo wafh their
heads weekly in a wafh made for
the nonce , and dry them agiin in
the Sun , to make their hair yel-
low, a colour much in vogue here
among Ladyes. The men throw of
their hats, cuffs, and bands, as well
as their cloaks, at their return
home from vifits, or bufiniefs, and
put on a gray coat , without which
they cannot dine , or fup h and I
have been ivited to dinner by sn
Italian , who before dinner , made
his men cakorf our hats and Cloaks,
B and
16 Th e Voy a ge
and prefent every one of us ( and
we were five in all ) with a coloured
coate, and a little cap to dine in.
At dinner they ferve in the beft
meats firft , and eat backwards, that
is, they begin with the fecond
courfe, and end with boyld meat and
pottage. They never prefent you
with fait, orbrainesof any fowle,leaft.
they may feem to reproach unto
you want of wit. They bring you
drink upon a Sottocoppa of filver,
with three or four glafTes upon it - 3
Two or three of which are
ftrait ncckt glalTes ( called there
caraffas ) full of feveral fortsM)^
wines or water , and one empty*
drinking glaffe, into which you
may powr what quantity of wine
and water you pleafe to drink , and!
not (land to the diferetion of th^
waiters as they do in ocher Counn
tries. At great feafls, no man cut^
for himfelf, but feveral Carvers art
up all the meat at a fide table , arid
give to the waiters, to be carry-!
ed to the Gueflsj and every onfl
hath the very fame part of meal
carried unto him, to wit, JPfrftl
and
of Italy. 17
and a legg of wild fowl, &c. ieaft any
one take exceptions that others were
better ufed then he. The Carvers
never touch the meat with their
hands, but only with their knife and
fork, and great filver fpoon for
the fauce. Every man here eats with
his fork and knife, and never touch-
eth any thing with his fingers , but
his bread : this keeps the linnen
neat, and the fingers sweet. If you
drink to an Italian^ he thanks you ,
with bending, when you falute him ,
and lets you drink quietly , without
watching (as we do in England) to
thank you again when you have
drunk : and the firft time he drinks
after that will be to you, in requital of
your former courtefy.
Iliey count not the hours of the
day as we do, from twelve to twelve;
but they begin their count from
Sun.fet, and the firft hour after [un-
fit is cm a clok, •, and fo they
count on till four and twenty , that is
till the next Sun- fee sgain. I have
often dined at fixteen a clock , and
gone abroad in the Evening, to take
B ij the
Nomtn ,
quafi no-
tamen.
S.Aug.
iS The Voyage
the arye, at two and twenty They
call men much by their Chriftian
names, Signor Pie.ro , Signor Fran-
cefco y Signor fucomo, &c. and you
may live whole years with an Ita-
lian , and be very well acquainted
with him without knowing him ,
that is, without knowing his diftin-
ftive furname. People of quality ne-
ver vifit one another, but they fend
firft \ to know-when they may do it
without troubling him they intend to
vifit : by bf this means they never
rufli into one anothers Chambers
without knocking , as they do in
France •, nor crofs the defigns or
bufinefs of him they vifit, as they
do in England with tedious dry vi-
fits; nor finde one another either
undreffed in clothes, unprovided in
compliments and difcourfe, or with-
out their attendants, and train about
them. In theftreets men and women
of condition , fcldome or never go
together in the fame Coach, except
they beflrangers, that is, of an other
Town, or Country : nay husbands
and wives are fcldome feen together
in the fame Coach, becaufeall men
do
of Ital y. ip
do riot know them to be fo. In the
ftreets, when two perfons of great
quality meet, as two Embaffadours,
or two Cardinals , they both flop
their coaches, and compliment one
another civilly, and then retire- but
ftill lie that is inferiour muft let the
others coach move firflr. If any man
being a foot in the ftreet , meet a
great man , either in coach , or a
foot, he muft not falute him in going
on his way, a£we do in England and
France , without flopping h but he
muft ftand ftill whiles the other paf-
feth, and bend refpe&fuliy to him ns •
he goes by , and then continue his
march. In fine, of all the Nations I
have feen, I know none thnt lives,
clothes, eates, drinks, c nd fpeakes
fomuch withreafon, as the Italians
do.
As for their Riches, they muft Their
needs be great. That which is vi- Riches.
fible in their magnificent Pattaces ,
Churches , Monaileries , Gardens ,
Fountaines , and rich furnifhed
Roomes, fpeakes that to be great
which is in their Coflfe s: and that
which the King of Spain draws vifibly
B iij from
ThrirRe-
Hih>».
20 The Voyage
from Naples every year , (hews
what the other parts of Italy could
do for a need, if they were pat to
it by neceflicy. Nay, I am of opini-
on , that the very Sacriftj of Loreto t
the Gallery of the Duke of Florence,
and the Treafnry of Venice , would
upon an emergent occafionof a Go-
thic^, or Turklfh invafion, be able to
maintain an army for five years fpace^
and the Plate in Churches and Mona-
&eryes , would be able to do as much
more, if the owners of it were found-
ly frighted with a new Got hick, irrup-
tion. As for. the Riches of particular
JPriwes in Italy t lwiW fpeakof them,
as I view their States here below.
In fir.?, as for thcif Religion, its
purely that which other Coun-
tryes call by the name Catholique •
and which in England they com-
monly call, the Religion of the
Papifts. And though there they
think to nickname the CachoJick by
calling him Papift , yet the well in-
ftru&ed Gatholick knowing that
the name of Papift, comes not
from any Seft-mafter, as, Soci-
nian.
of Italy, a i
nian fl and Brownift do ; nor frota
any Settarj Meeting ylace , as Hugo-
noes from the Gate of Hugo in
Tour j in France , near unto which
they met privately at firft to teach
and dogmatife; nor from any pub-
lick fedtary action , as Anabaptifts ,
Dippers, Quakers, &c. do : but from
the word Papa, which fignifies Fa-
ther l and is not the name of -any
one man , or pope , but onely fig-
nifies his Fatherly office of Paftor ;
the Catholick , I fay , is no more
troubled at this name of Papift, then
he was when he was called in the
late troubles, Royallifc (for adhe-
ring to the King 9 which is not the Rex tf
name of any of our Kings , but his ^men of-
Office onely) and not CrommlUft , fi ct *-
which was the name of one adhe- S.Ambr*
ring to a particular man called Crom-
yoely and an unlawful ufurper of
Power. As for the true name in-
deed, which is Catholic^ all
thofe of that Church have ever
called themfelves by no other
Rime then this of Catholick,
the wifeft of Protectants alfo ac-
B iiij knowledge
22 The Voy a g e
knowledge it publickly to be their
diftin&tve name: witnefs that fo-
lemne meeting at Munfter , fome
years agoe, about the General Peace
of Chriftendome, where thePublick
Jnflrument of that Peace (heweth
plainly how that the Proteftant
Plenipotentiaries ( the wifeft men of
that Religion) treated with the Pa-
pifts, as fome call them , under the
name of Cath dicks : and though in
many other titles and denominati-
ons, they Were very wary andferu-
pulous, even to the long fufpenfion of
the Peace, yet they willingly conclu-
ded , fubferibed , and figned that
Peace made with them, under the
^mmeofCatholicks. I fay this onely,
Vor to make men anderftand , what
the 'true name of the Religion prac-
tifed over all Italy is, to wit, £*-
tholicki
Having faid thus much of Italy in
general, I will now come to a parti-
cular Defcription of it, according to
the ocular Obfervations I made of
it in five feveral Voyages through
it. In which Defcription, if I be a
little prolixe, it is becaufe I rid not
Pofte
.of Italy. 23
Pofte through Italy, when I faw
it • nor will I write pofte through it,
in defcribing it^ being aflured, that
Epitomes in Geography are as diffa-
tisfaSory, as Laconick Letters would
be in State Relations- and that the
great Atlas , in nine great volumes in
folio, is not onely Atlas Major, but
alfo Atlas Melior.
The federal wayes by which
a man may go into Italy.
TH E ordinary wayes which an
Englishman may take in going
into Italy, are five : to wit, either
through Flanders and Germany, and
fo to fall in at Trent , or Trevifa and
fo to Venice. Or elfe by France, and
fo to Marfeilles , and thence to Ge-
noa by Sea. Or elfe by land from
Lyons through SVeifferland , the Gri-
fens Country, and the Kaltoline, and
fo pop up at BrefcU. Or elfe from
Lyons again throisgh the Valeftans
Country, over Moant Sampicn, the
Lake Major, and fo to Milan. Or
elfe in fine , fram Lyons ftill , over
Mount Ctnit, and fo to Twin , the
B v neareft
24 The Voy age
reared Poft-way. I have gone , or
come, all thefe wayes, in my five
voyages into Italy , and though I
preferre the laft forfpeed and con-
veniency; yet I will defcribe the
•thers too , that my young Travel-
ler may know how to fleer his
courfe , either in time of Plague or
warre.
My fir ft Voyage into Italy,
MY firft voyage was through
F landers iw& Germany, and fo
to Trent. The way is, from England \
10 Dnnkirc^ from thence to Fnrnc 9
N export ,0 ft end, Bruges ,G ant, Brttf-
fels, Lovain, Liege, Colen, Mayence ,
Franc ford, and fo cro fling to Mtt-
mchen , the Court of the Duke of
Bavaria, and from thence to Ah-
fiurg, and lnff>rnck^> you come
foon to Trent , which ftands upon
the Confines of Germany i and lets
you into Italy, by Trevifo belonging
to the Venetians. To defcribe all
thefe forefaid places would take me
too much time from my defign of
«ldcribiHg Jtaly, and therefore I
content
of Ita^ly. 25
content my felf onely to have named
them.
Myfecond Voyage.
MY fecoud Voyage was by the
way of France, where I ftarted
from Paris, and made towards Ly-
ons i in the way I took notice of thefe
places.
Yffme a neat houfe belonging
then to Monfiear Ejfolin. The houfe Tfofft,
isfo pretty, that I think it worth the
Travelers feeing, and my/defcri-
bing. It (lands in the (hade of a
thick grove of Trees, and is wholly
built and furniftied aV Italian*. Un-
der the fide of the houfe runns a
little Brook, which being received
into a Bafon of Free-ftone, juft as long
as the houfe, and made like a (hip ,
( that is , (harp at both ends and
wide in the middle) it is cloven, and
divided into two, by the (harp end
of this (hip, and conveighed in clofe
channels of free-ftone, on both fides
of the (hip or bafon , into which it
empties it felf by feveral tunnels,
or pipes : fo that all this water
fpouting
a6 The Voy age
fpoutinginto the open ftiip on both
fides , by four and twenty tunnels,
makes under the windowes of the
houfe fuch a perpetual purling of
water, ( like many fountaines ) that
the gentle nofe is able to make the
moft jealous man fleep profoundly.
At the other end of the houfe this
water iffueth out of the other end
of the fnid ftiip , and is courteoufly
intreated by feveral hidden pipes of
lead, t® wa'k into the houfe, in
ftead of running by fo faft : Which
it doth, and is prefently led into the
Cellars, and Buttery , and not onely
into thefe, but alfo into the Kitchin,
tables, chambers, and bathing room ,
all which it furniftieth with water
either for neeefficy or «pleafure.
Then being led into the curious
garden, its met there by a world
©f little open channells of free-ftone,
built like knors of flowers- all which
it fills brimfull, and makes even
Flowers of water. Then running
•v.p and down here and there a-
oiong the fragrant delights of this
g rden 9 as if it had forgotten its
errand
of Italy. 27
errand to the Sea, it feems to be fo
taken with thofe fweet beds of flow-
ers, and fo defirous of refting upon
them, after fo many miles running,
that it offers to turn it felf into any
poftnre, rather then be turned out of
this fweet place.
From Tjfonne I came to Fontain- p omta i n
belleau, where I faw that Kingly foff eaUt
houfe , the Nonfuch of France, It
ftands in the midft of & great Forrefi
full of Royal Game, and the place of
delight of Henry the Fourth. The
houfe is capable of lodging four Kings
with their feveral Courts. The Court The court
of the Cheval Blanc is a noble fquare tftheChe-
of Buildings: but thelownefs of the valBlanc
Buildings and Lodgings (hews , they
are for the Lower Sort of people,
and the Servant- Lodgings to the
Royal Apfartiment s. The Oval Court TheOval'
is a good old Building. The Kings Court.
and Queens Lodgings with their Ca-
binets groan under their rich guilt
roofs. 1 he Gallery of Staggs heads is
aftately room, then which nothing TheGaU
c\n be more Cavalierly furnifhed; hry of ^
exept fuch an other gallery hung flaggs '
with Turkifi fiandards won in heads. ,
war
CCS.
2% Th e Voyage
The Gal- w arre. The other long Galleries of
leries of Romances and Fables, painted by
Roman- Simon Vojet and others, are much
efteemed : the onely pity is, that
fuch true painting (hould not have
been employed upon true Hifto-
ries.
The Salel The Salle of the Conference, is a (lately
oftheCon- Roome, where the Bifliop of Eureux
ference. (afterwards called the Cardinal du
See the Perron) in prefence of King Henry
pnhlkk^ the Fourth, the Chancellor, five fud~
Atts of ges of both Religions-, and the whole
this Con- Room full of learned men , difputed
ference with Monfieur Plejfis Mornaj , the
printed Achilles of thofe oiCharenton y The
4».i6ox. Hall of Maskes, and the Lodgings
. of Madame Gabrielle with her pi-
Madame ^ Hn 0Vfif ^ C h' mn y like a Diana
Gabrtells j lunt i n g j arc fi ne Roomes : yet the
p&ure, fa t pi^ure cannot hinder men from
blaming her foul life •, nor from cen-
TheChaf faring that Solcecifm of the Pain
pels.
ter, who rmde chafte Diana look
like Madame Gabrielle. There are
alfo here two Cbappels t Jthe old
andtha new. The old cne is a poor
thing h and feems to have ben built
for
of Italy. 25?
tor hunters : but the new one is both
neat and ftarely, and built upon
this occafion, as a Bifhop in France
told me. A Spanijb Embaffadottr
refiding in Paris in Henry the IV.
his time ; went one day from Paris
to Fohntainblean , to fee this French
Efcurial. Arriving, he lighted af-
ter his Countryes fafliion , at the
Chappel door (the old Chappel)
and entringin, to thank God for his
fafe ariyal , he wondred to fee fo
poor and dark a Chappel, and asking
with indignation, whether this were
the Cafa di dios ? the houfe of God ?
he tamed prefently away withfcorn s
faying, No ejuiero Veer mad •, I care
for feeing no more: not flaying to fee
that place,where the King had fo fine
a houfe, and God fo poor a Chanel.
i his being told the la ft King Lewis
the XIII- he commanded forthwith
t'le new Chappel to be built in that
fumptuous pofturc we now fee
it.
Going out of the houfe, ycu
finde a handfome JWail, and Rare
Pwdj of water, which even baptize
this
f
go The Voyage
this place with the name of Fountain-
bellem. In thefe Ponds, as alfo in the
moat about the houfe, are conferved
Old Carps exce ^ ent Carps ; fome whereof were
faid to be an hundred years old :
which though we were not bound
to believe^ yet their very white
fcales, and dull moving up and
down , might make men believe
that there are gray fcales , as well
as gray hairs; and decayed fifties;
as well as decrepid men : efpecially
when Columella fpeaks of a fifh of
his acquaintance, in Cafars fifti ponds
near Paufilippus, which had lived
threefcore years ; and Gefnerus re-
lates, thai in a fifti-pond near Hayl-
frum in Suabe , a fifli was catched
anno 1497, with a brafs ring at
his gills, in which were ingraven
thefe words : J am the firflflfh which
Frederkkjhe fecond , Governour of the
world put into this Pond the 5 of Otlo-
her 1203. By which ic appears, that
this fifh had lived two hundred and
fixty odd years. Bnt to return
again to our Carps of Fountainbel-
leait, Its an ordinary divertifement
here, to throw an halfpenny loaf into
the
De Re
Rufl.
X
of Italy. 31
r he moat among the Carps, and to
fee how they will mumble and jum-
ble it to •and fro • how others will puff
a nd ffitifT, and take it ill noj to have
part of it , and how in fine, they will
plainly fall to blows, and fight for it.
You would wonder , how fuch hot
paflions fliould be found in cold wa-
ter : but every thing that lives, will
fight for that which makes it live, its
Vittails.
Having feen Fountainbelleati, I faw An old
one extraordinary thing in the reft of jnfcripti-
the way to Lj/ens,hut an old Infcrip- onconcer-
tion\n letter* of gold, upon a wood- *»w £„-
den Ft brick, a mile before Icarne to nHn )r
Montargjs , importing , that the £*-
g/*/& being encamped here , had been
Forced torafe their Siege before Mm-
targU t by reafon of great raynes and
fudden inundations. Some of the
French Hiftorians will have it, that
it was the Count de Tinnoisfixzx. forced
theEnglifti toraife the Siege here:
but I had rather believe publick in-
fcriptions , then private flattery .•
and it was more honourable for the
Englijh to be overcome by God, then
by men.
From
32 Th e Voyag e
Momy from hence I patted through
gis. Montargis, a neat pleafant Town ;
in the great Hall of whofe Cafile ,
is painted thehiftory of the dog that
fought a Duel with the Murderer of
his Af after •, and it is not ftrange chat
the dog that had put on humanity ,
overcame him that had put it off, to
efpoufe the devouring humour of a
Dog. This is the chief Town of the
( • Gdftinois.
Brim* From hence I went to Brian where
I faw the cut Channel that joynes
The Oft' L i re anc i § ent together in Trafick,
'ytnttionof whofe bedds otherwife (land wide
^Loireand from one another in fcituation.
Kfw. From thence tQCo/w, la Ckarite,
Tougues famous for wholefome (link-
ing waters ; Neures, famous for glafs
tioufes : Moulin* famous for knives
andScizars: La Palijfe where they
make excellent Winter r boots : Ro-
Attne where Loire begins to be navi-
gable , and fo over Terrara hills to
Lions.
Lyons. Lyons is one of the greateft and
richeft towns in France It (lands
npon the Rivers Saont , and Rhofne y
( Araris and Rhodanus ) and inter-
cepting
o f It a l y. 33
cepting all the merchandize of Bur-
gondy % Germany, and Italy , It licks its
fingers notably , and thrives by ir.
It exprefleth this in its books : for
here you have handforae people ; no-
ble houfes, great jollity, frequent
Balls, and much bravery : all markes
of a good town : and could it but in-
tercept either the Par'ament of Aix^
or Grenoble^ it would be as noble as its
name/otzs its Cathedral Chapter % Amble
whofe Dean and Prebends are all Chapter,
Counts , and noble of four defcents :
They got the title of Counts thus : A.
great eonteft arifing between the
Chapter of St. John's Church, and the
Count de Forrefts called Guigo, tor
fome rights over the Town of Lyons
which they both pretend to j at laft
anno n 66. they came to an Agree-
ment , upon this condition , that the
Count fliould leave to the Chapter
his County oiForrefts ; which he did ;
aud fo ever fince the Dean and
Prebends have been called Counts of
S. John.
Thechiefthingstobe feen inXj-
otfjarethefe.
I. The great Church , or Cathe-
dral
34
Th e Voyage
S, Johns droit called Johns Chunk Its the
Church. L Seat of an Archbijhof^ who is 2s>»-
w^f of GWe. S. Iren&us was a great
ornament of this Church, as was alfo
Eucherim. Upon folemn dayes the
Cartons officiate in Miters like Bi-
fhops. They fing here all the Office
by heart, and without book, as alfo
without prick-fong Mufick, Organs,
or other Internments, ufing only the
ancient plain-fong. The High Al-
tar is like thofe of Italy , that is
open on all fides, with a Crucifix
and two little candle'fticks upon it
I never faw any hangings in this
Church, not upon the greateft daycs,
but Venerable old walls. The clock
here is much cryed up for a rare
piece.
The town 2. The {lately new Town-houfe, of
Uoftfi, pure white-free-ftone, able to match
that of Amfterdam > y and indeed they
feemed to me to be twins •, for I faw
them both in the fame year as they
were in building. The curious ftair-
cafe, and Hall above, are the things
moft worthy taking notice of> the
one for its contrivance; the other
for
o f It a l y. 35
for its painting. ' Other
3. The Jefuits Coliedge -and fair Rarities.
Library. 4 The Carthufians Mo-
naftery upon a high Hill. 5 . The Mi-
nimes Sachrifty well painted. 6. The
reft of the old Aquedud upon
the Hill. 7. The Mail, and the
fweet place of Belle Conr. 8, The
Heart pT Saint Francis de Sales in
the Church of the Visitation in Belle
Cour- 9. The Charite where all the
poor are kept at work wirh admira-
ble ceconomy: It looks like a little
Town , having in it nine Cour^jBk
built up with lodgings for the poor;*
who are about fifteen hundred , and
divided into feveral CiafTes, with
their feveral Refer. ories and Chap-
pels, 10. The Head of St Bona-
venture in the Cordeliers Church.
11. The Callle Of Pierre Ancife ,
built upon a Rock. 1 2. *Noftre Dame
de Fourier (landing upon a high hill,
from whence you have a perfect view
of Lyons. . The rare
13 Lafily, the rare Cabinet of Cabinet
- Monfiear Servier a moft ingenious of Monfi-
gentleman; where I faw moft rare eurSer~
experiments in Mathematicks and vier.
Meawicks
36 The Voyage
Mechankhj ; all made by his own
hand ♦ as the Sympathetica! balls ,
one fpringingup at the approach of
the other held up a pretty diftance
off : the demonftration of a quick
way how to pafs an army over a ri-
ver with one boat, and a woodden
bridge eafily to be foulded up upon
one cart ; the Afoufe-dyal , where
little thing, like a moufe , by hec
infenfible motion , markes the hours]
of the day T he Lizard-Dial
much like the former, onely the
moufe moves upon a plain frame ol
wood which hath the hours marJ
ked on it •, and the Lizard creeps
upward from hour to hour. Thd
night dyal , (hewing by a lighted
lamp fet behind it, the hours o|
the night , which are painted iri
colours upon oyled Paper , and turri
about as the time goes. The Torj
toife-djal , where a piece of Corl
cut like a Tortoife , being put in]
to a peuter difti of water, whicH
hath the twelve hours of the daV
marked upon its brims, goeth ujj
and down the water a while , feekj
ing out the hour of the day thai
is
of It a ly. 37
is then, and there fixing ic felf
without (Hiring. The Rare engine
te: itl ing how to throw G^anado s in-
to bdeiged • i owns , and inco any
precife place without failing. The
way how te fei up a watch- Tower
with a man in it, to look into a
Town from without; and fe how
they are drawn up within the
Town : A way how to change di-
ning Rooms three or four times,
with their Tables, the Seats and
Guefts, being by the turning of a
wheele tranfported fitting, out of
one Roome into another - 9 and fo
into three or four more Roomes
varioufly hung with tab'es covered.
The Desk^djd y which throws up
a little Bill of Ivory without reft,
and thereby rmrketh t(ie hour of
the day, and {heweth what a clock
it is : the Dyal of the Planets repre-
fenting the dayes of the week by
feveral figures in ivory of the Pla-
nets : the Oval Dyd in which the
need e that markes the hours, (hrin-
keth in, or ftretcheth out it felf
according as the oval goes: the
Dyal (hewing to every one thac
toucheth
Vienne.
Tonrn n.
Faience.
Pern S.
Ejprtt.
Avignon,
38 The Voyage
touch ech it his predominant pajpon ;
with a world of other rare curiofi-
ties, all made made by this ingenious
gentleman.
Leaving Lyons, I embarked in a
Ctbmne, or litde covered boat, and
defcending the rapid Rhofne, I came
pofte by water , to Vienne ; where
Pontius Pilate , banifhed hither,
threw himfelf off a high Tower,
and killed himfelf The Cathedral
of this Town is a fair Church de-
dicated to God , in the Honour of
St. Maurice : there are neither
Pictures, nor h.mgings in this
Church.
From hence I went to Tournon,
where I faw a good Library in the
Co Hedge.
Thence to faience in Daufh'we ,
whtreXdw is taught.
From whence I c:i me to Pont Saint
Lffirit famous for its long bridge of
thirty three arches^andfor the bones
of a Gjant which are conferved in the
Dominicans Convent here - y And from
hence to Avignon.
Avignon is the head Town of a '
little Country , called Vulgarly the
Contad s
of Italy. 39
Le Cent vd d' Avignon. It belongs to
the Pofe, having been purchafed
by one of his Predeceffors anci-
ently of fane, Queen of Naples and
Count e[s of Avignon : and it ferved
for a fafe retreat todivers Popes con-
fecutively , during the troubles of
Italy which lafted above feaventy
years. At laft, Italy and the Popes
Territories there , being cleared by
the admirable Courage and Conduct
of brave Cardinal Albornozzo, who
conquered again all the Popes eftate,
The Pope Gregory the XI. returned
home again to Rome. Of the fore-
faid Cardinal Albornozzo I cannot
omit to tell one thing ; That after
his great fervices rendered to the
Pope , being envied by fome of the
Court, who had perfwaded his
Holinefs to call him to an Accompc
for the great Summes of Money
he had fpent in reducing again
the whole State of the Pope unto
its Obedience; le brought the next
morning a Cart laden with chained
bolts, locks, and Keyes belonging
Once to thofe Townes which he
had retaken for the Pope, and pla-
C ced
The'jrari-
ties.
40 The Voyage
ed it under the Popes window : then
going up, onedefiring his Holinefs
to draw to a window to fee his Ac-
compts the better , he opened the
window, and (hewed him below, the
Cart laden with chains , kit s, locks
and keyes ; faying , Holy Father, I
spent all your mony in making you ma'
fier again of thofe To\\>ns whofe keyes t
locks, bolts and chains you fee in that
Cart below. At which the Pope
admiring, defire<J nomore Accompt
of him , who proved his Honefty
by whole (art-loads of Services.
Ever fince that time , Avignon hath
belonged to the Pope-, and he go-
verneth it by a Vice-Legat imme-
diately , the Popes Nephew pro tem-
pore , being alwayes Legat of this
Town.
The things I fawhere were thefe:
1. The Cathedral Churchy with di-
vers lombes of Popes in it that dy-
ed here. 2 . 1 he Church of S. Di-
dier, with the Tombe of Petrus Da-
mianm who followed the Pope hi-
ther.- He was famous for his Ler.
ned works, and his known f r.&i-
ty. 3. The Church cf the Celefiins ,
With ]
OF I T-'AL Y. 4.x
with the Tomfa, and neat Chappel
of Cardinal Peter of ^uxenburg , a
young man of a great family, and of
a greater fan&ity. 4, The Carthn-
fians Monaftery in the Bourge of Vil-
leneuuc, where you ihalJ fee much
good punting. 5. The Dominicans
fair Convent, with the Chappel
and true Picture of St. Vimentim
Ferrerius a holy man of this Order.
6. The Cordeliers Church famous
for its widenefs, and yet not fup-
ported by any Pillars. Here lyes bu-
ried Madame Laura rendrered fo
famous by Petrarchs Verfes : not
that fhe was a diflioneft: woman, but
onely chofen by him, to be the poe-
tical miftrefs of his Sonnets. 7. The
Church of the Fathers of the Chrifti-
WDottrine, with the body, yet en-
tire, of the Founder of their order p,
Cafar de Bm t a man of fuoh lingu-
lar Sanftity, that Cardinal Ricblieu
banifhed hither, whiles he was one-
ly Bifhop of LufoH t offered and vow-
ed a filver Lamp to God at the
Tombe of this holy Bcato. 8. The
fine Free-ftone walls of this Town ,
the admirable Bridge , many han-
C i\ fome
Lrf&
'M«rfiil'
les.
42 The Vo y age
fome Pallaces, and curious Gardens.
9. The trading of this Town, which
confifts much in (ilk-fluffs, perfumed
gloves, ribands, and fine Paper. 10.
The inhabitants here , who love to
go well adjufted and appear in fine
clothes.
From Avignon I went by Land to
Aix in Provence, £VniverfityfK Par-
liament town, and one of the neatefl:
towns in France : of the Parliament
of this town Menfieur da Vair was
theftrftprefidenc, and a lingular Or-
nament, by reafon of his famous elo-
quence. This town is the feat of an
Archbidiop; and is now poffeffed
by Cardinal Grimaldi who is Arch'
bijhop- here. From hence I went to
Marfeilles.'
Marfeilles is a very ancient town,
built 63 3 years before our Saviours
time, and fo famous antiently for
learning, that it was compared with
Athens. It Hands upon the Medi-
terranean Sea, and hach a mod
neat Haven and harbour for (hips
and gallyes; 1 flayed here eight days
to wait upon the return of two Gal-
lies of Genua y that had bro^hc
an
of Italy.
43
an EmbaiTadour from thence into
France, and were to return within
a few dayes. In this time, I had lei-
sure to make a little excurfive Voy-
age to the famous place of Devoti-
on called LaSainte Beattme, where Lafainte
S. Alary Magdalen lived a moft pe- Baume.
nitential life in thefe Mountains and
defertt, even atter (he had been af- SeeBaw
fured of her pardon by our Saviour n im ad
himfelf. The place it felf is able to ^.35.
make any man that confidereth it Gordons
well j melt into fome pennance too, Croncfo-
and figh at leaft ; to fee how much gy. Ge-
(lie (a woman) did, and how lit- %-ard of
tie he (a man) doth^ for excellent Na^a-
tijfima animadvertmti , ne mediocria nth in a
quid em pr aft are , rnborl oportet ejje , treat ife
faith a great Author, In Marfdlles ex pro-
it felf there remain fome prints of feflb.
her begun pennance : but (he that _, .
had been a (inner in the City (and * r '
perchance by that occafion onely) ' *
thought the Defert a fafer place ; and Matter
fo (hewed her converfion to be true, peccatrix
by flying the occafions of her former incivita-
fins. *e.
If you ask me, how Mary Mag- ^
dak* came hither ; I mut ask
iij
you>
See Ba*
ron.an.%%
Gextffrad
Gamier.
Chaffa-
uas and
Wonfieur
du Fair.
S.Maxi
rmn.
44 The Voyage
you, how fofeph of Aramathea
came into England: and learned Ba-
ronius will anfwer us both •, by telling
us, that upou a perfection raifed
againft the Chriflians in Hierufalem-,-
Mary Magdalen , her fifter Mar-
tha, her brother Lazarus, with Jo-
feph of Arimathea, and diversothers
of the firft Chriflians , were expofed
to Sea in a (hip without fayles, with-
out rudder, without anchor, with-^
out pilot,andyet thefhip came happi-
ly to Marfeills , where Lazarus
preaching the faith of Chrifl, was
nnde the firft Bifliop of this Town ;
and fofeph of Arimathea came inco
England
Near to Saintle Beaume ftands
the Town of 5. Maximin famous
for the Church of S. Maximin go-
. vemed by Dominican Friers : In this
Church are to be feen many famous
Re liquet of S. Mary Magdalen ; as
her head in a Chryftal cafeencha-
fed in gold: her body in a guilt chafe,
and divers other rich things.
Having feen Marfeilles, I em-
barVed in the forefaid Gallies , and
was nine dayes in them before I
dtrived
of.Ital y. 45
arrived at Genoa -, having feen in the
Way, Toulon, Nice, Antibo, Monaco,
Skvaua, and fo to Genua.
Thus I paffed,though tedioufly,yet
fecurely from France into Italy by
Sea : and I could almoljt wifh my
Traveller to take the fame Courfe, if
he were fure to finde two Gallies
well manned, as 1 did, to carry him
thither. Ocherwife to venture him -
(elf ( as men ordinarily with extra-
ordinary danger do ) in a little Fe-
luca, a boat little bigger then a pair
of Oares, is a thmg I would wifh none
to do , but Pyrronians , and Indiffc- Pyrrha
rents who think danger and fecunty dicebat,
to be the time thing. For my part , nihil in-
though I dare not fay with that cow- terejfe i»~
ardly Italian, who being laughed at tervitam
for his running away in a battle, an- & mov
fwered •, / was not affraid , but onely tern*
had a minde to try how long a mans
shin well ksft would lafi : yet i dare
fay with generous Cato, that I repent -
me foundly, if ever I went by water,
when I could have gone by Land.
C jv
My
46 The Voya ge
My Third Voyage.
Geneva.
7 he rari.
Jirs.
MY third Voyage into Italy was
again by the way of Paris
and Lyons: but now by Geneva and
Swifferland.
Parang then from Lyons I paffed
over the Grand Cre do, a fmart hill;
through Nantna (landing upon a
Lake , and in two dayes came to
Geneva.
Geneva is built at the bottom
of Savoy , France , and Germa-
ny.
The things which I faw in Geneva
werethefe: i. The great Church of
S. Peter, the Cathedral a nticntly of
the Bifhop of this Town. In the
Jguire I faw yet remaining the Pic-
tures of the twelve Prophets on one
fide, and the pictures of the twelve
Affiles on the other fide, all engra-
ven in wood. The pictures alfo of
the Bleffed Virgin Mary, and S. Pe-
ter, in one of the windows. Here
alfo I faw the Tombe of the Duke of
Bouillon
of Italy. 47
Bouillon General of. the , Army of
Germans, called then in France the
Reiters, who rn the battle of Aul-
' neat* were beaten by the Duke of
Guife and forced to fly to Geneva ,
having loft 1800 of their men upon
the place, moft of them with charmes
about their necks , which they
thought would have made them
fliot-free. Mounting up to the ftee-
ple 4 I faw a fair Bell with a Cruci-
fix caft upon it , fliewing whofe it
was j and four good pieces of Ord-
nance, that none may fay, the
Church of Geneva wants Ecclejiafii*
cd Cannons. And a little below in
the Belfree , there live in feveral
Chambers, three or four families ©f
husbands and wives, and fucking
children begotten there h contrary
to the Canons of any other Church,
except thofe of Geneva. From the
top of this ( hurchyou have a fair
profpect upon the lake and neigh-
bouring Countryes; which makes
them brag here, that they can fee
from thtir fteeple, into fix feveral
principalities, to wit, their own,
France, Savoje, S^ifferland , tbe
C V fakji- .
T he Voyage
Valefians^ and the Tranchecounty.
But I told them, it would be a greater
brag, to fay, that they^onld fee into
no other Country or Dominions but
their own. 2. Ifawthe Arfenal, lit-
tle, but well ftored with defenfive
armes. They never forget to (hew
the Ladders of the Savoyards^ who
attempted to furprize this Town by
fcaling , but were themfelves taken
and beheaded a la chande, leaft fome
Prime ftiould have interceded for
them. 3. The Town hottfe with the
Chamber where the Magistrates
( fomething like the Hogen Mogem
of Holland) fit in Counfel. 4. They
(hewd me here a Library but none of
thebeft. 5: The admirable Trent*
here, able to make them wifti for
their Lent again h Were it not, that
the Capons here are full as good in
their kinde.
As for the Governent of this
Town, it was anciently Monarchi-
cal , and the Bilhop w?s Prince of it
under the J)»ke of Savoy : but
Fare! and Calvin coming hither
with their Anarchical Presbytery ,
drove the Bifhop Peter de la Beaume
out
of Italy.
out of the Town; and eftabliih-
cd there a kinde et^Dtfitocratj, or
rather a kind of Arifkocraty, ming-
led of Laymen and Minifters. Yet
the Bifliop keeps ftiJI his Title, and
the Chapter its Revenues and Lands,
which happily lyes in Savoy out of
the reach of the fliort jurifdi&ion of
Geneva. Both the Bifhop And Chap-
ter refide at Anify in Savoy , and
officiate in the Cordeliers Church. Of
this Seat was Bifhop the late Cano-
nized Saint, S. Francis de Sales, ,
a man of fingular fweetneft and pie- Pet ™* a
. ty , mingled with zeal and difcretion. s ^ omti "
I have read of him, that in his life aldotn
time, he made four thoufand Termors Deart0 '
to the people.
Having thus feen the little All of
Geneva, I made towards Smfferlattd,
leaving the Lake on my right hand ; — ; , ,
or rather taking it on my right hand; . ~ ^
for it would needs accompany me to J
Lattfanna^ where it took leave of me,
or I of it.
This Lake is absolutely thefaireft
I hive feen : its fairer then ei her
the La\e Major, theZ^ ofCcwo,
the Lake oi Zttric , the Lake of
- Wdhnfl.xt
1
i^o The Voy age
Walenftat , the Lake of Ifee , the
Lake of Marat) or the Lake ef
Garda. In fome places this Lake of
Geneva is eight miles broad, and well
nigh fifty miles long. I have read
of a ftranger , who travelling that
way alone in Winter, when the Lake
was all frozen over and covered
with Snow, took the Lake far a large
plain, and rid upon it eight, or ten
miles to the fown Where lighting
5t his Inn, and commending the fine
plain over which he had ridden, was
given to underftand, that he h?d
sridden, if not in the Air, at leaft
fiften Fathom above ground •, at
which , the poor man refk&ing
upon the danger he had been in ,
fell down dead with the conceit of
it. Thus we are troubled notonely
st evils to come but at evils paft ^ and
are never fo near the danger of death
sswhen we are newly paft it. No
animal but man, hath this folly.
£4#fe?r Leaving then, as I fiid, the Lake,
W. I came foon after , to Laufanna in
Smfftrland, belonging to the Can.
ton of Berm: Here I favv an anci-
ent Church of a noble flrafee ; and
once
OF I T A LY. 51
once a Biftiops Cathedral , but now
poflefied l by Minifter* of Calvinj
communion •, and the man that
(hewed us the Church ( though no
Catbclick) affured us, that the re-
cord* of that Church bore, that Afajfe
had been faid in it thirteen hundred
years ago.
From Laufanna I went towards Smfftr*
Soleur , skirting through the Can- i an ^
ions , fometimes of Berne, fome-
times of JFribourg ,and fometimes in
one dayes journey, I paflfed into a
Catholick Canton , and by and by,
into a Proteftant Canton again:
for here Catholic!^ and Proteftant
Villages are mingled together, and
make the Country look like the
back fide of a pair of tables , chec-
kered with white and black. In
one Village you have a Crofs fee
up, to fignify that it is Catholiquc
belonging to the Canton of Fribttrge^
by and by in another Village , a n
high flag with the piflure of a ™rnefi-
Bear in it, to fignifie , that it be- & m P s ***
longs to the Canton of Berne, and ™" ch/l *
is Proteftant : and yet they live civilly ear °
and neighbourly together without
cmarre*
in
52 Th e Voyage
quarreling about Religion.
Soleur Faffing thus a long, I came to So-
leur (Soktnrnum in Latin ) a neat
Town and Head of a Canton. They
are all Catholiks here : and here it is
that the French Embaffadours to the
Sniffers, alwayes refide, as the Spa-
niflj Embaffadours do at Lucerna.
This Town is very ancient , as the
Golden Letters upon the Clock tefti-
Petrm fie •, for thofe words make Soleur to
Romual- be onely yonger then her Sifter Tre~
f w,which 3 a6 apneas Sjlvita writes,
was built 1300 years before Rome.
TreforJo. As for Soleur^ I fr d in good Cronolo-
i.p^.83. gers that it was built 2030 years after
in fol. the Creation of the world.
From Soleur I went to Mumt, a
little town famous for a great battle
fought hrd by it, by the Duke of
Burgundy ,° nd the Sn>i(fers.. Fpr the
Duke of Burgundy befit- ging Murat,
Mm at. tne Smffers fca me upon him with a
great Army,and defe-'.ted him. I was
to!d here, that the Duke feeing his ar-
my defeated, and himfelf environed
on one fide by the Lake here ; and on
the other fide, by the Enemies con-
quering army, chofe rather to truft
him ft If
OF I T A LY. 53
himfelf to the Lake, then to his E-
nemyes. Whereupon fpurring his TbeLake
Horfe into the Lake, one of his ofyi Hr ^i
Pages, tofave himfelf alfo, leaped
up behind him, as he took water.
The Duke , out of fear either per-
ceived him not atfirft, or diflemb-
ledit till he came to the other fide
of the Lake which is two miles
broad: The ftout horfe tugged
thrugh with them both , and faved
them both from drowning, but not
both from death. For the Duke fe»
ing in what danger his Page had
put him, ftabbed the Page with his
Dagger. Poor Prince / thou mighft
have given an other offering of
Thankf-giving to God for thy efcape
then this ^ nay, thou mighft have
been as civil as thy horfe , and have
fpared him , whom- beafts and
waves had faved .* At leaf! by that
means , thou mighft: have faved
thy own honour, by faving that
poor Page, who offended, rather
out of fear of death , then out of
malice: and thereby thou mighft
have truly faid, that thou hadft not
loft all thy men in that battle. But
paffion
1/
54 Thk Voyage
paffion is a blind thing : Nothing is
fo dangerous to man, as man •, and
as 1 obferved above, we are never
in greater danger , then when we
think we are pait dinger. The bones
of the Btfrgundians flain in this
battle, arefeenin a great Chappel ,
which ftands a little 4iftant from
the Town, and upon ^he road,
with an infcription upon it touching
the time and circumftances of this
defeat.
From Mttratl m? de towards Zu*
ric , a head Hownalfo of a Canton.
It ftands moft fweetly upon a Lake
whofe cryftalline waters would de-
light any body elfe but Sniffers.
They are all here, Smngtians-,
and when Marejbal D 3 Eftree the
French EncfaffAdour to Rome, p flea
that way, and lodged at the great
\nn of the. Sword t a9 he was comb-
ing his head one morning in his
combing cloth, with his chamber
window open, forne of the Towns-
men , who fiw him ( from another
oppofite window ) putting on thac
combing cloth, and thinking it
had been a prieft putting on the
Amice
o f It a l y. 55
Amice, and veiling himfelf for to fay
Mafs before the Embaffadour in his
Chamber , began with a Dutch cla-
mour to ftirre up the people to a mu-
»ny about the Embaffadours houfe ,
a nd to calJ for the Prieft, that was
faying of MafTe : The Embaffadour
at firir, not understanding the caufe
of this uproar about bis houfe,
pn down with fword in hand, and
in his combing cloth, to check the
firft man that fhould dare to enter
his lodgings: but undemanding at
laft, that his combing cloth had
caufed this j'ealoufy, he laughed at
their folly , and retired away con-
tented.
The fcfcft things to be feen in Zu-
ric are thefe. i. The mzt Arfenal
furniflied with More of fair Cannons
and armes of all forts. 2. The great
Library jyax in this much lefs efteem-
ed by me, becaufe a woman had the
Key of it , and let us in to fee it.
This piece of hMt Latin ar the en-
trance, difgufted me with all that I
faw there, and made me haften out
quickly: Good libraries (houli not
fail en ejueneuillei
j,. The
A long
Bridge.
$6 TH E Vo Y AG E
3. The Wheels which draw up.wa-
ter from the Lake qi themfelves, and
empty it into feveral Pipes , and fo
conveighitall over the Town.
4. The publick great Drinking '
hall, where there are a world of lit-
tle rabies for men of feveral Corpo-
rations or Trades to meet at, and ei-
ther talk thereof their bufinefs, or
make drinking their bufinefs , O
ver every Table hangs the fign of
each Trade •, as, a Lafi for Shoo-
makers,a Saddle forSadlers, a Sword
for Cutlers, &c There is a great
Bell that rings to this Meeting- place
every day at two a Clock , and
when I heard fo folemn a ringing,
I thought it had been to fome
Church-devotion , not to a drinking
aflembly.
From Zuric. I went by water, that
is upon the Lake, a whole dayes jour-
ney, and pafled under a bridge of
wood which croffed quite over the
Lake for two miles. Its entertained
at the coft of the King of Spain ,
to pafs the Souldiers which he of-
ten raifeth in the adjacent Coun-
tryes.
From
of It a l y. 57
Frofep hence I went to Coin , or Coire.
Cear , the head Town of the Gri-
fons. The Bifhop and the Clergy of
the great Church, with fome few
others living within the precin&s of
the Cloifter of the great Church ,
are Catholicks, and perform their
Devotions in the Church without
controll : the reft of the Inhabitants
are Smnglians, and poflefs the
Town, yet they fuffer the Bifhop
and his Clergy to live quietly in the
midft of them. They (hewed me
here in this Church, divers fine Re-
Kques, efpecially the Head (encha- S.Lucitu
fed in Silver) of our ancient Brit- thepr^l
tijb King Lucitu, the nrft Chriftian Chriftian
King that ever made profeffion of King.
Chriftian Religion , and the firft who
helpt to plant it here The an-
cient Church Office here relates all
this , as their Church Books (hewed
me.
From the Grifom I went to the ,
Country of the Valtaline • a Coun- The . VaU
try fubje&tothe Grifons and keep- talme '
ing its fidelity to them even when
it would not have wanted afllftance'
from Spain and Italy, if it would
have
Mount
Berlin.
LeSplug
Mount
Auriga.
Cj8 TH E Vo Y AG E
have beenfalfc to its Superiours the
Grifons under the colour of Religi-
on : thofe of the Valtaline being all
Catholicks , and their Soveraigns
the Grifons Calvinifts. In a little
town of the Grifons ( called Her-
berga ) I was (hewed a Cheefe (and
given to tafte of it too) by mine
hofte , the Mayor of the Town, a
Cahiniff in Religion , and a Vene-
rable old man, whoaffured me fe-
rioufly, that that Cheefe was an hun-
dred years old : a Venerable Cheefe
iadeed.
Between thefe two Countryes of
the Grifons and the Valtaline > ftands
the great UillBerlino: over which I
paffed ; and fell from thence upon
Pofciavo a little bourg, and fo to our
Ladyes of Tirana a neat Church with
a fair Inn hard by it.
Others, to avoid the Snow ofBer-
lino, are forced now and then ( as I
was once) to pafs over the mountain
Splug, which is hill enough for any
Traveller.
From our Ladyes of Tirana I
went up a fmart hill called Mount
Aurigo,
O F
Italy. 59
.Aurigo, and fo making towards the The lakes
Lake of trallinftade , I patted it over ofwal-
in boat; as I did alfo foon after , that /infiade,
o{jfee-, and fo fell into the territo- <£• Jfee.
ries of Brefcia in Italy belonging to
the ftate oi Venice.
My fourth Voyage.
MY fourth Voyage into Italy s
was from Lyons again and ; M * Hm
Geneva , where I now took the Lake rice '
on my left hand, and paffing along
the skirts of Savoy, \ came toBoveret-
ta, a little Village • and fo to Saint
Maurice the firft Town in the Va-
letianj Countrey : This Town is fo
called from St. Maurice the Brave
Commander of the Theban Legion ,
in the primitive times, and who
was martyred here for the profeffi-
on of Chriftian Religion, together
with his whole Legion. Hence an
Abbey was built here by Sigifmond
King of Burgondj , and called S.
Maurice.
Now , this Country is called the ffl e fa-
Country of the Vale fans , from the fefans.
ler.etjal Valley in which it lyeth.
~ " The
-
6o The Voy a g e
The people have for their Prince
the Bifliop of Sion the chief Town
of the Country. 7"heir Valley is a-
bove four dayes journey long , be-
fides their hills which are two more :
Moft of their little Towns and Vil-
lages ftand upon hill fides , leaving
all the plain Country for tillage and
pafturage. Their houfes are low
and dark, many of them having no
windows, and the reft very little
ones. Sed cafa pugnaces Curios an-
gttftategebat. As for the people here,
they are all Catholicks , fincere ho-
neflr men, of flout courage, yet of in-
nocent lives , much fnow quenching
their luft , and high mountains Ha-
ving Off from them all luxe and
Vanity, the harbingers of Vice.
they have fhort hair on their heads,
but beards in folio : they are got fo
for into the grande mode, as to wear
breeches and doublets; but that's
all : for otherwife their clothes
look as if they had been m de by
the Tayhrs of the old Patriarckj ;
or as if the fafliion of them hid been
taken out of old hangings and ta-
piftry.
of Italy. 6\
piftry. In fine, both men and wo-
men here are great and maffive, and
not eafily to be blown away ; fo
that I may juftly fay of this people ,
as Cardinal Bentivoglio faid of the
Swifers, that they are good for the
AtyeSyVcA the Alpes for them. One
thing I obferved particularly in this
windy Country, which is, that they
have many natural fools here, which
makes me think it no vulgar errour ,
which is commonly faid, thuthe cli-
mats that are moft agitated with
winds produce more fools, then other
Climats do.
As for their ftrength , upon a de- «j-^ .
fenfive occafion , they can aflemble o tre?1?t fj
forty thoufand men together under «*
their known Commanders, who
are often times the Inn kepers in
whofe houfes we lodge j but out of
their own pit they are not to be
feared, having neither fpirits, nor
finews: that is, neither ambition,
nor money to carry on a forraign
From S. Maurice I went to Mar-
tigni a gre n In in ? poor Vil'age, and
from .hence to mn.
Sion
WiArtignu
Sion,
The beft i
Gards of
a Prince.
Plus tuta
Eur amor.
Lucia.
Briva,
62 The Vpyage
S ion (&nt\ent\y bedmum) is the
chief town of the Country, and
ftands in the Center of it. Here the
Bifliop, who is Prince, refideth with
his Chapter and Cathedral on one
hill, and his Caftle ftands on another
hill hard by The Court of this Prince
is not great, becaufe of his, and his
peoples quality. A good Bifliop hath
fomething elfe to do, then to be
courted, and good plain people muft
follow their trades, not Courts.
This Prince hath ho Gards, becaufe
no fears : and if danger fhould threat-
en him, his people, whofe love is
his onely Arfenal , have hands
enough to defend him. So that the
. Prince and People, that is, the Body
Politick of this ftate, feemed to me
like the .Body natural in man,
where the foul and the body being
friends together, the Soul directs
the body , and the Eody defends the
Soul.
From Sion I went to Lucia , but
lodged a quarter of a mile from the
town; and. from thence I reached
Briga at night.
JBriga is a little Village Handing
at
of It alt, 63
| at the foot of gceit hills j wh ere ha-
ving refted well all night, at the Co-
\ lonels houfe (the beft Inn here) we
! begin the next morning to clime the
1 hills for a breakfaft. For the fpace
of three honrs our horfes eafed us ,
the afcent not being fofurleyas we
expe&ed from fo rugged a brow of
j hills : but when we came to the
I fteepofthe Hill it felf Mount Sam-
fion y (one of the great Staircafes of Moititt*
| Italy ) we were forced to compli- ^mfwn*
I ment our horfes, and go a foot. It
! was towards the very beginning of
! October when we paffed that way %
and therefore found that Hill in a
good humour - otherwife its fro-
ward enough. Having in one hours
time crawled up the fteep of the Hill,
- we had two hours more riding to the '
j Village and Inn of Sampion : where
arriving , we found little meat for
' our great ftomachs, and cold com-
i fort for all the hot ftincking
i Stove.
At laft, having paid for a dinner
, here , though we faw nothing we
| could eate, we were the lighter in
purfe,.as well as in body, to walk
D weH
64 The Voyage
well that afternoon, rather then
that after'dinner. To defcribe you
the rough way we had between
Samfion and Bevedra , down hill
alw^yes , or fetching about hills upon
a ntrrow way artificially made out
of the fide or thofe hills, and fome-
times flicking out of them , as if it
had been plaftered to them , were
able to make my pen ske in wri-
ting it, as wellas my leggs in wal-
king it • And here I found the Pro-
verb falfe, which faith „ That its
good walking with a hcrfe in ones
hand: for here we could neither
ride, nor lead our horfes fecure-
ly, but either the one, or the
other were in danger of '{tumbling,
that is, of falling five hundred fa-
ome deep. For here, a§ well as
in war , femel tantum -peccatur , a
man need but ftumble once for all
his life-time : Vet by letting our
horfes go loofe with the bridle on
their necks , and making a man go
before each horfe , leaft they fhouid
jumble one another down ( as I
once faw thelike done by horfes in
(Swijferland ) we arrived fafely at
Deve-
of Italy,
65
DeveJra that night. You would do Devedra]
well alfo to light from horfe at the
going over all the little trembling
Bridges of wood which you will
finde there , remembring the Italian
Proverb, which faith : Quandotn Ve-
diun Tcntejallipu honors che tu non
fai a un Come.
Having repofed all night in the %) omo .
houfe of the Signor Caftettano, we Mceta.
went the next morning to Domodo- %
fcda a little garrifon town of the
State of Milan, troublefome enough
to travelers that pafs from Milan this
way, and carry piftols and guns with-
out licence.
From VomodofceU we pafTed
through a fine plain Country to Mar-
Marguzzi, a little Village ftand- £****• •
ing upon the Lake Major (ancient-!
Iy called Lacut Verbanw ) where Lakelfa*
making our bargain with our boat- j°r*
men to carry us in one day from
thence to Sefio, and keep aloof off
from the command of all theCaftles,
which now and then warn boates
to come in ; and under pretence of
fearching them for marchandize ,
flop paffengers till they have
Dij fere wed
Sefto.
Civlta
Caflel-
Mount
Aivue -
billet.
$6 The Voyage
fcrewed a piece of Mony out of
them.
Arriving fafe ac S^tbat night,
we took CQach the next day for
Milan, and Dining at Chita Caflel-
iAttza, arrived betimes at that great
Town which was called anciently
Altera-Roma : a fecond Rome,
My fifth Voyage.
MY Fifth Voyage into Italy was
full from Lyons t but now by
the way of Mount Cenis^ and Tu-
rin, the ordinary Poft rode, and I
think the eafieft way of all the reft.
Parting then from Lyons on Iiorfe-
back, we pafied through Verpillitr ,
La Tom du rin> Beauvoyfm^ ( whofe
Bridge parts France % and Savoy)
and came in two dayes to the foot
of Mount Aigmbellct , the thre-
shold of the Aides'. This is a pretty
breathing hill, and may be called,
the Alpes foul ovir, or the Alpes in
a running hand^ and not in that fair
Text- hand which I found Mount
Cmis to be in. It hath all the line-
aments and (hapes of the great
Aljes %
of Italy. 6j
AlpeSy that is., much winding and
turning ; deep precipices, Marons, or
Men with little open Chairs, to carry
you up and down the Hill for a
Crown; and much Mumbling work.
In fine, this hill refembles Mount Ce-
nts, as a proper man may do a
Giant.
Having pa/Ted this Hill , and by
it through the very clouds, we fell
as it were out of the Skies, upon
Chamber) the chief Town ofS*- Cham- ]
voy , and where the Parliament re- bery.
(ides.
We call: to be there at the fo»
lemn Entry* which this Du\e made
for his newSpoufe, the third Daugh-
ter of the late Duke of Orleans,
when fhe came firft into this Coun-
try. T© defcrlbe all the Triumphal ..
Arches in the Streets, with their 'he Ett-
Emb/emsan<\ Motto's rarely painted j t1 ^ c l.
the Irately Throne a little out of the Putchefn
Town,where the Duke and Dut chefs °f SAVO h
received the compliments of their, >
Subjects- the rich Liveries of rhe'
young Townfmen on horfeback -, the
gallantry of the Noblemen and
Gentlemen of the Country (800 in all)
D iij with
Mont-
mdian.
Jfere,
c8 The Voy a ge
- their horfes as fine as they : the
Tarlament men, and other officers
of fttftice all in black velvet gowns;
the Clergy and Religion* marching in
the mean time humbly a foot and in
Proceffion ; the Dukes two Com-
panies of horfe in velvet coats of
crimfon colour, embrodered wich
gold andfilver^ The Pages and foot-
men of the Dttke and Dutchefs in
Crimfon velvet laid thick with gold
and filver lace •, in fine, the "Duke
and D ftt chefs on horfeback as bril-
lant as the Sun , would fill a booic
alone, which I have no minde to do,
feeing there is one extant already in
a juft volumne.
Leaving then Chamber) the next
day after the Shew , we went to
Montmdian to dinner. This is a
ftrong Caflle upon a high rock, over-
looking the river Ifere , and com-
manding the paffage here which is
{freight between the hills. The
ftrength of this Caftle appeared when
it withftood the Royal army of
Lewis tne XIII. of France for fif-
teen months, and made him raife
the Siege when he had done.
Here
of Ital y, 69
Here is fUll a ftrong Girrifon in ir,
and ftore of ammunition , and all
things neceflfary for the defence of a
flrong place. They (hewed us in ic
their deep Well for fre(h water iu the
midft of a high rock ; their excellent
pieces of Artillery, one of which is
laid to carry four miles, that is, to
Fort Bnrreatt a little Fort belong-
ing to France, which is two leagues
from hence, and which you fee from
thisCaftle.
From Montmelian we had rough Aigm^
way to Aiguebelle \ thence to S. John ^lle
Morian t to S. Michel, and at lait to S. John
Lafnebonrg , which (lands at the Morion*
foot of Mount Cents t /the highefl of Lafnc*
all the'hills I pa(Ted ; over in my feve* bourg.
ral voyages into Italy, or out of it;
to wit, Sampion, Berlin, Spltig, and
S.Godarde.
This Hill of Mount Cenis part-
ing S^ay and Italy , (hall be the
place where I will now begin my Ve~
fcription of Italy , having hitherto
onely defcribed the feveral wayes in*
to it.
D jv
The
Mount
70 The Voyage
Tins description and Voyage
of Italy.
ARriving then , as I (aid before I
at the foot of Mount Cw, an-
ciently called Cinijitim ; and refting
all night at Lafnebottrg we agreed
with the Maronsy to carry us up the
bill, and down the hill, as alio over
the Plain , and in fine, all the way
to N ovale fe it feft. All this i s to be
expreffed in your bargain with them,
otherwife they will cavil with you,
and make you go over the Plain a
foot. The price is, a Spamjh Pifiol
for every man thats carryed. Thofe
tb.it are ftrong and vigorous, ride
up upon Mules, and walk down a
foot.
We began to mount at our go-
ing out of our Inn at Lafnebourg ,
and having paffed by La Ramaffa
(where men are pofted down the
Hill upon the Snow in Sledges with
great celerity and pleafure}after two
hours tugging of our Chairmen, or
Marons, we came to the top of the
hill, and a little after to the Pcfthovfe,
mi
of Italy. 71
and the little Hofpital upon the plain:
Thence palling by the Chappet, of
the Tranfts ( that is, of thofe who
are found dead of cold in the Snow,
and are buried here) we came to the
great Crofs and Tavern, where we
began to defcend. This Hill of
Mount Cenis is four miles in the go-
ing up, four miles upon the Plain ,
and two in its defcent to Nevalefe.
Arriving about noon at Novalefe, ^y , ; -
we dined, horfed, and went that
night to Su/a.
Smfa , anciently Segefwm , is a
ftrong Town, and one of the gates
of Italy. For this reafon,the French
in their late long Warr with Spain , ••*
kept it a long time in their hands;
as well as Pignerola , which they
Hill keep upon treaty, to let them
into Italy when they have a mind.
Its ftrength confifts wholly in a Ca-
ttle built upon a high rock clofe to
the Town, and commanding all
the paffage betwixt the twc Moun-
tains:. This Town is famous in the -'P* &
latter KiftorV, for the fmart afti- *****
on of the trench , when they
beat down the twelve feveral
Barrier h
(efe.
Sfizal
72 The Voyage
Barriers, whereby the Btiks of $*-
t/oy thought to have choaked their
tu&mont paflage* Tms aftion is famous in
hiftory , by the name oi k Pat de
Suze. Here at Sufa begins Pied-
mont.
From Sufa we went to S. Ambro-
fto, and pafled by Rivolle a fine houfe
Riiolle. of the Dukes, (landing in a good air,
and at night we came to Turin.
i 7V«*, antiently called Augufta
Taurinorum, is fituated in a plain,
near the foot of th: hills and upon
the banks of the river Po y which
begins here to be navigable, and
from hence carries boats to Ferra-
ra } Chiofa and Venice. 1 his Po is
a noble River, and very large in
fome places, efpecially a little be-
low Femra j yet I have read that
in a great drouth which happened in
the year of the world 2470. it
was dryed up and rendered innavi-
gable.
~. - ■ This Turin is the Seat of one of
jfoeB**. tbe greaieft p riwes i n Ita ij } the
cf Savoys Du k e0 f Savoy, and Prince of Pied-
ntlesmd who is a]fo treated with the
gremefi. ^ of Mezza ^eak , and Vica-
rio
S. Am-
hrofio.
Turin.
The Ri
ver Po^
Tetrma
S. Romu-
f.ldo,Cro.
to. 1.
of Italy.
7?
rio Generate del Imperii in Italia*
This houfe of Savoy which now
governs here , came antiently from
Sigmrdo King of Saxony in the
year of Chrift 6\6 and hath con-
served it felfever fince, that is , for
a 'thoufand and odd years in a
continual feries of Heroical Prin-
ces, whofe Pedegree was never vi-
tiated nor interrupted by any dege-
nerate Oflf-fpring. 'Five Emperors,
and four Kings have iflued out of
this houfe.
Antiently the Dukes of Savoy kept
their Court at Ch amber y or elfe at
Boptrgen Brvjfe, a Country now be-
longing to France , upon exchange
with the Marqutfat of Saluzzo ;
as many of their Tombes curioufly
cut in Marble, in the Juguflins
Church there yet fhew. It was J-
tnadeo, the V. of that name, Duhe of
Savoy, that ; transferred the Court
to Turin. It was aifo this Amadco-
who in memory of his Grandfather
Amadeofoz IV, who had defended
Rhodes fo bravely, inflitured the
Knighthood of the jnnunciata ,
with this fingle motto in the collar
' ~ ^ V of
His fub-
getts.
His Com*
tryes ex*
tent.
His for-
ces.
Revenues
His Jnte-
reft.
TheTown
of Turin.
The
things to
be fern in
Turin.
The Holy
Syndon.
74 The Voyage
of the Order F E. R. T. fignifying,
that Fortitudo Ejus Rhodum Tenuit.
The fubjetts of this Prince are
faid to be about eighteen hundred
thoufand fouls. His whole Country
with Piedmont and all, is judged to
be two hundred miles long , and
fifty broad. His Forces thirty three
thoufand Foot , *and five thouf; nd
Horfe : and his Revenues to be a-
bout a million of Crowns, befides
what he can now and then raife
out of that fat Country of Piedmont.
His Interefl is, to keep well with
France , and not fall out with
Spain.
As for the Town it felf of Turin,
its almoft fquare, and hath four gates
in it , a ftrong Cittadel with five ba-
ftions to it ^ its well furniftied with
good provisions in the market; it
ftands in a fat foil, which makes it a
little too durty in winter, and it is
anllniverfiry.
The chief things which I faw here,
were thefe.
i . The Domo , or Great Church ,
in which is kept with great Devo-
tion the Hclj Spdon, in which
our
O F If AL Y. 75
our Saviours body was wound up
and buried: of the Verity of this
Relief fee Baronius in his Ecclefia?
fiical Hiftory ad, an. 34 num. 138.
Its kept in a Chappel over the High
Mtar , and fliown publickly upon
certain dayes, and privately to Em-
bassadors and Prelats. as they pa fs that
way. The late Dnchefs Madam
Cbriflina^ began to make a fine Chap-
pet for to keep it in, but it was noc
quite finished when I pafTed that way
laft. The Chappel is all of black
Marble, adorned with (lately black
Marble Pillars: indeed -winding fheets
( fuchas this Relief is) are things of
mourning , and are beft fet out in a
mourning way.
2. The Cittadelle ftanding at the
back of the Town, and keeping it in T** cir
awe. This Dnlte and his Mother **&&.
found the convenience of this Citta-
delle, when by Factions within the
Townagainft them, they were for-
ced to this Cittadelle, and there wea-
ther it out fioutly, (till fuccour com-
ing to them from France made them
Matters again of the Town, and their
enemies.
The
j6 The Voyage
3. The Dukes new Pa/lace handfomly
The Pal, built with a fair Court before it , a
lace. great Piavza , and a large open
ftreet leading up it. The Chambers
are fair, and hung with hangings of
Cloth of Tyjftte , of anew and rich
fabrick , with rich embroidered
beds , chairs , {tools, cloth of State ,
and Canopies. The Dutchejfes Ca-
binet, the curious bathing place above,
hung round with the true pictures
in Little^ of the prime Ladies of En-
Theba- rope. The curious invention for the
thing Dutchefs to convey herfelf up from
place. her bedchamber to that bathing
room, by a pullyand afwing, with
great eafe and fafety : the great
H all painted cnrioufly : the Noble
fkair-cafe : the old long Gallery
The old 100 pices long , with the Fitturcs
Gallery, in it of the Princes and Princess
of the houfe of Savoy , with the
Statues of the ancient Emperours
and Philofophers in marble, with a
a rare Library locked up in great
cubbords , are the chief rooms and
ornaments of this Pallace. I faw
alfo the Appartiments or lodgings
of the old Dxtchcjfe JMadame
Chri-
"he ne»
'■ Jlreet.
of Italy. 77
Chrifliana , which Joyn to the old
Gallery , and in her Cabinet I faw ma- /
ny choice Pidures.- /
4. The new ftreet, which runeth fa
from the Pallace to the Piazza
Reale, is a fair ftreet, and built uni-
formly. The fhops below sfford
great conveniency to the Townes- /
rren^and the fair lodgings above to, (
the Noblemen and Courtiers.
5. The Piazza Reale is built The Pi-
handfomly upon Pillars-, like our Co- azzaRr
vent Garden, and is full of nothing ale.
elfe but Noblemens houfes.
6. The Augujiins Church, called The An-
S. Carlo , ftanding in this Piazza , gutting '
adornes it much, being a neat Church church. '
and the bcfl: contrived that I faw in
this Town.
7. The Capucins Church upon a The Ca»
hill out of the Town, is above the puchins
rate of Capucins: but you mufi: Churchy
know who gave it, not who have it.
From hence I had a perfect view
ot Turin, with the Country about
it.
8. Some three miles out of the L<«^»f-
Town I faw a neat houfe of the ™ Ro J~
Dukes, called La Venery Roy ah. «?**
The
78 The Voyage
The Court fee round with Staggs
heads ; the Chambers full of good
Piftures •, the Hall painted with great
Pi&ures of the Duke, his Mother ,
his Sifters, and other Ladies all on
horfeback , as if they were going a
hunting ^ the place where they keep
Pheafants , Partridges , and other
fuch like Birds, the Stable for 100
Horfe, and the neat Dogkennel, are
the bed things to be feen in this
houfe.
LaVtkn- 9. On the othf r fide of the Town,
tine. about a mile off, I faw the old Dut-
chefTes Houfe called La Valentine.
It ftands pleafan'ly upon the Banks
of i^and is adorned with great va-
riety of Pictures, In five or fix
Roomes, on the right hand of the
houfe, they (hewed me a world of
Pi&ures of all forts of Flowers : on
the left hand , as many of all forts
of Birds, with other Pi&ures curi«
oufly painted. The four Pictures re-
prefenting the four Elements , with
all that belongs to them, as all the
Birds that flie in the air \ all the
beafli that are found upon the earth ;
ail the fijbes and fitlh that arc found
in
of Italy. 79
in the water ; and all things that be-
long to fire, arefo curioufly painted
in their feveral particular fliapes and
colours , that thefe four pieces are
an abridgment of all Nature, and the
admiration of all that behold them.
There are lome other good pieces
here too ; as the Magdalen fallen in-
to an extafie : the rap of the Sabins j
and divers others.
The others Houfes about the
Town, as Milhfieur belonging to
the Duke; the Villa oi the Prince fs
Marie •, with divers others which
fhew therafelves upon the Hill fide,
are very ft a rely, and worth feeing.
Having thus feen Turin , we left Frora
the ordinary road , which leads to Turin r#
Milan (to wit, by the way of Ver- Qenuai
telle and Novara> two ft rong Towns
frontier to one another , through
which I paffed in another Voyage )
and , to avoid two Armies which
lay in the way , chofe to fteer
towards Genua by the low way of
Savona. And pafling through a me-
lancholy Country by Altare and
other little Towns for the fpace of
three days,we came at laft to Savtna,
Savona
Savona.
80 TH E Vo Y AG E
Savona ( anciently called Saba-
tia, or Sabatium ) is the fecond
Town, or elded daughter of Genua ;
and like a good daughter indeed fhe
ftands alwayes in her mothers pre-
fence, yet keeps her diftance : it be-
ing within fight of Genua, yet five
and twenty miles off. It (lands upon
the Mediterranean Sea, or, as they
call it here, upon the Riuiera diGe-
nea. Its fortified both by Art and
Nature^ that is, by regular Fortifica-
tions towards the Sea, and by lufty
jipennin hills towards the Land. Yet
whiles Savona feared no danger
from either Sea or Land, it was al-
moft ruined in the year 1648 by
Fire from heaven, to wit, lightnings
which falling upon a great Tower
in the midft of the Town , where
Gunpowder was kept, blew itup up-
on a fudden , and with it threw
down two hundred houfes round
about in, and houfes of note. For,
paffing that way fix months after,
and walking among the mines , I
faw in many of the houfes , which
were but half fallen down , curious
painted Chambers, and fine guilt
roofes.
of Italy. 8i
roofes, which fhew'd me of what
houfe many of thefe houfes had
been; and of what weak defence
guilt roofes and painred walls are
agaihft the artillery of heaven thun-
der and lightning.
This Town is famous in Hiftory
for the interview of two great Kings
here , to wit , Lewis the XII of
Frame, and FerdinandKmg of Na-
ples. This interview patted with de-
monftrations of mutual civilities, not
ordinary in interviews of Princes.
For Le wis feared not to go into the
Gallies and Ships of Ferdinand
Without guards and unarmed : and
Ferdinand remained for many dayes
together in this Town belonging
then to LeVris, whom he had lately
ftript of the Kingdom of Naples %
and beaten him to boot in a bat-
tel.
Of this Town were Julius SecHJf
duS) and Sixtus jQuartus, two Popes
of the Houfe of Rouen : and two
great Cardinals, Peter, and Raphael
Riariu
Embarking at Savona in a Feluca,
we rowed along the Shoar (called
%2 The Voyage
la Riviere cki Genoa ) unto Genua it
felf\ and all the way long we faw
fuch a continual Suburbs of ftately
%a Ri- Villas and Villages, that thefe fcant-
vitra di lings made us in love with the whole
Gema. P^ce it felf, Genua. I confefs, I ne-
ver faw amoreftatelyabord to any
City then to this : and if we had not
had Genua full in our fight all the way
long, we (hpuld have taken fome of
thefe ftately Villages for Genua ic
felf^ and have imitated Hoftingus
the Leader of the Normans , who
coming into Italy about the year 860
with a great Army, and finding Luna
( a Town in the confines of Genua) fo
fumptuoufly built, thought really it
had been Rome, and thereupon ta-
'Tfreldo a king it, he gloried that he had ijrck-
S.^Hin- edthe Miftrifs of (he World; Gra-
tinojlib.l* tatur tenere fe Monarchiam Utius
Ae morib* Imperii, per urbemquam putabat Ro-
&AB. mam, faith his Hiftorian.
Norman. Sailing thus along this pleafant
Coaft, we came betimes to Genua.
Genua. Genua is one of the chief Towns
that ftand upon the Mediterranean
Set, an$l one of the belt in Italy. J he
common
O F I T A L Y. 8 g
common Italian Proverb, calls it,
Genna, la Super fa : and if ever I faw
a Town with ics Holy-day clothes al-
wayes on, it was Gema.lt ftands upon
the fide of a hill, and rifing by de-
grees, appears to thofe that look
upon it from the Sea, like an Am-
phitheater. Heretofore it was only The walls
fortified by Marble Bullworks, that is,
great Hills of Marble which backt it
up : but, fome forty years ago it was
environed with new "walls, carrying
fix miles in compafs, and yet finifhed
in eighteen moneths. ,
The Haven heretofore was very je ^ A "
unfafe , and many Ships which haa vtn *
tugg'd through the moft dangerous
Seas abroad, were feen to fink here
in the Haven at home •, the French ,
then Matters of Genua, not fufTering
her to (hut up her haven, leaftfhe
fhould (hut them out. But fince
(he hath fhaken . off the French
yoak, (he hath locked up her Trea-
sures , and bolted the door on the
infide, by that admirable Mola,
which eroding almoft quite over
the Bay, or Haven, doth not onely
bolt out all Enemies , but even
lock
YOS.
84 Th e Voyage
locks up the boifterous Sea it felf,
and makes it tame in the Haven. Its
a prodigious work, and able to have
puzzel d any two Kings in Europe
to have done it.
ThePha- At one end of this Mola ftands
the Pharos upon a little rock, with a
Lantern upon it, to give nonce, by
known fignes, what Ships, how ma-
ny, and from what fide they Come :
or elfe to guide their own Ships home
fafely in the night. At firft it was
onely a little Fort for to help to bri-
dle Genua, and it Was built by Lewis
the XII of France.
As for the Town it felf of Genua,
its moft beautiful to behold : many
of the houfes being painted on the
outfide, and looking as if they were
turned infide" 6iif, ifld had their
Arras hangings hung on their out-
fides. The tops of their houfes
are made with open Galleries, where
the women fit together at work in
clufters, and where alfo they dry
their hair in the Sun after they
have waflied it in a certain wafh a
purpofe for to make it Tellow , a
colour
The City
it felf.
e
reus.
of It a ly. 85
colour much iffe&ed here by all wo-
men.
The Streets are very narrow : fo ^
that they ufe here few Coaches, but a
many Sedan: and Litters. This
makes the ncife in the ftreets lefs, '.
and the exper.ce in the purfe fmalier.
But, for want of ground and earth j
they make heaven pay for it ^ ta-
king it out in the height of their
houfes , what they want in breadth
or length. So that Genua looked
in my eye like a proud young La-
dy in a ftraight-body'd flower'd
Gown , which makes her look tall
indeed and fine, but hinders her
from being at her eafe, and ta-
king brer.th freely.
Yet I muft except the Strada ,
Nona here, which for a fpirt, fur- ^™*
pafleth all the ftreets I ever faw any
where elfe for neatnefs and propor-
tion •, and,if it had but breath enough
to hold out at the fame rate, a
little longer, it would be the true
£lueen~flreet of Europe : Ordinary
houfes are fo out of countenance
here,that they dare not appear in this
ftreec where there's nothing but Pal-
laces
Nova^
The Do
mo.
85 Th e Voyage
laces, and Pallaces as fine as arc and
coft^ or as Marble and Fainting
can make them.
Having faid thus much of Genu*
in general, I will now come to the
particulars that are to be feen in it.
i. The Domo, or great Church of
St Laurence prefents it felf to my
fight : Its the Cathedral of the Jrch-
bijhop, who, when I patted that way
la ft, was Cardinal Durazzo, a man
of great Vertue and Piety. This
Church is of a noble Structure, all
of black and white Marble inter-
mingled , and all mafiive fquare
ftones. In a Chappel over againfl:
the Pulpit, is kept reverently an
auihentick Reiki of St. John Bap-
tifl , under the Altar ; and the
great Dijh of one Emmmd > in
which they fay here that our Savi-
our eat the Pa fchal Lambe wiih his
Difciples. Both thefe were given
to the Genuefi by Baltvdin King of
Barm ad Hierufalem, for their great fervice
jf*J 101. done againft the Turks m the Holy
ft. IS. Land. Of the Relief of St. foh»
Baptifi , Baronm fpeaks credibly
in
of Italy, 87
in his Eccleftafiical Hifiory. But for
the Dipj of Emeraud , 1 find no au-
thority for it , either 'mharomm or
any ancient Author, that our Savi-
our ufed it. Efpecially teeing Vtne- Bedd.l. de
rable Beda writes, that the Dijh in l oc , f af ,fc
which our Saviour eat the Pafchal c ,2.
Lambv^jzs of Silver,
2. After the Domo, I faw the Tht At*
Church of the AnnuncUta , which nunciatai
draweth up the Ladder after it for
neatnefs. Its ftill in building, and
not quite finiihed. Its thus beauti-
fied at the toft of two Brothers
Rich Gentlemen and Merchants of qh ^y;
this Town, who allow the third part ncriLo-
of their gains to the adorning of m tini,
this Church. The roof of it isall
gilt', and fetwth Curious Pidures
in rhtfwxd. The Altars rounda-
bout the C hurch, are cheeked with
exquifire Pillars, srd adorned with
rare Pictures. The two Rows of
V*ft Pillars , which hold up the
Roof of the Church, arefobcauti-
full , being of a red and wkjre
Marble, that they look like fa/pcr,
and ravifli the Eeholder : 1 hey are
curictfly wrought a nd chmlled.
88 The Voyage
S. -Am- 3. The Church of S. Ambropa\
brofio. belonging to the feftths is neatly
overcrufted with Marble, and guilt
above in the roof. It wants a little
length, for want of room to build
on: it being too near the Doges
Pallace , and not daring to advance
a ftep farther for fear of treading
upon his heels.
'& Cjtty. 4. The Church of the Theatins
called S. Cjro^ is very handfome,
with its double row of white marble
Pillars, which kt it out very grace-
fully. IhtCloifier alfo is very neat,
and the Fathers very civil.
5. ihe PaHaces here are moft
fumptuo us. Thofe of the Strada No-
va are the beft, and.the bsft ot thofe
is that of the Prince d' Oria : its
built upon white round Marble pil-
lars, which fupport its GalUries, and
thofe Galleries let you into noble
Rooms adorned with all the Abel-
liwtnti of Italian Palfcces. The
other Fallaces too in this Street de-
ferve particular mention in this my
defci iption of Genoa,,, and may take
it ill I fay nothing of them; but
i they mull excufe my brevity, and
impute
The Pd-
Uces.
1 ftp Italy. 89
impute the fault partly to them-
selves ■ feeing dmirable things are
liable to this inconvenience, that
they are Ifo unexpreffable.
6. I f ; w alfo the two PatUces of The Pal*
the Sigwirl Balbi, in the Street of laces sf
the Annunciate* In the one whereof Sigxori
(on the left hind) I faw, among -#<*/&.
other rich things, a Looking GUfs,
valued at threefcore thoufand
crowns. Its much of the fize of thofe
Looking-gla/Tes , which Seneca calls
fpecuia toti corpori paria, that is, as
bigg, and brittle, as thofe that look
themfelves in them. The Fume oi
it is all of Silver , fet thick with a
thoufand little armed Figures , like
Cupids : as if the plain Mirrour of
this Looking-Glafs were the plain
field where C/^Wpitcheth his Tents,
and begins his Conquefts over fair
Ladies. The round Pillars fet in
the Porch of this home , and the
Gimchi £ aequo, in the Garden,will
•make themfelves be taken notice of.
7. The Pal/ace of the Doge, or y^
biennial Prince here, with the fe- $ ,
veral Chambers of Juflice, and the p JZ
Armory in it for thirty thoufand *
E ij men
The Ar-
mory.
San TU'
troin
Arena.
<?o The Voyage
men ought to be carefully feen. In
one of the great Halls of this Pal-
lace^ve feen twelve Statues of white
Marble^ reprefenting twelve famous
men of this Town, who had render-
ed great fervice to the Common-
wealth, In the foreftid Armory you
fee a Halberd with. two Piftol bar-
rels in t he lower end of ic. You fee
alfo the Armor of the Gennefian
Amazons, who went to the War
in the Holy Land, ard carried them-
selves gallantly. Here's alfo a Can-
non of Leather fo light, that a man
may carry it.
8. But that which is the mod
taking mGcnua, is that which is
out of Genna^ /mean, the {lately
.Suburbs of San Pietro in Arena ,
where for 1 mile together , Villas
adorned with Marbles, Painting,
Statues, Gardens, Arbors of Gelfo-
min , Onnge , and Lemon Trees,
Crotts, Ponds?, G'mochi d' Accjt<a,
Founta ins , high Walls, with Shades
born up by Marble Pillars , &c.
c mpofc,of many Pallacesand Gar-
dens , inch a beautiful Landskip ,
that the whole place feemtd to me,
to
OF I T A L Y.
to be the Charming ParadifeOi the
King of the Mountains anciently ;
and / was almofl: going to fay , that
wedurft notbjefs ourfelves, leaft
this enchanted place fhould have
vanifhed. The bed Villas, or Pal-
laces here, arethofeof Hieronymo
Negro , and that of the Imperial! :
the firft beautified with all the
g ra ces o f Italian Furniture , as a 1 fo
with Gardens, Walks, Ponds, Wa-
terworks, Allies \ ejre. the other,
befides all thefe , hath an excellent
Profpecl •, for the Mafler of- this
Houfe can fee out of one Window
of it, Twelve thoufand Crowns a
year of his own , onely in let
Houfe*. The other Paliaces here
expect / (hould fay fome.hing of
them , and they deferve it well-
but really to give them tlieir full
due, /can onely fay this of them,
chat they ought to be feenby the
eye, not defcribed by the Pen.
9. As you return from San Pie- Tfa Villa
tre in Arena, to 'the Town not far f the
from the Gates, (lands the Villa, or jy#y
Pallace of the Duke d' Oria. /re- fori*.
ferved this for the la ft , pur (aire
E iij bonne
92 The Voyage
bonne bomhe. It ftands upon the
Sea fide, and its Garden towards thi
Sea is built upon three rowes ol
white Marble Rails , born up by
white Marble /V/<*r.r,which amend-
ing by degrees , is fo beautiful to
behold from the Sea, that ftrangera
paffingthat way toGenoa, take this
garden for a fecond Paradi/e. In the
midftof it (lands the rare fountain
of Neptttnp, representing the true
looks of brave Andrea T? Oriathc
Neptune of the" Ligurian Sea, and
the man who put his Country out of
Livery , and taught it not to ferve.
All along one fide of this Garde*
ftands a Cage of Iron y about a
hundred paces long-, and fo high
that it fetcheth in a world of laurel
and other Trees, clad with chirping
birds of feveral forts-, and to make
the poor Birds believe that they
are rather in a wood, then in a
prifon, the very Cage hath put even
the wood it felf in prifon. Tjien
entring into the Pallace, we found
it moft curioufly adorned with ra-
rities and riches futable to the
Countrys humour, and the Matters
purfe
of Ital y. 93
purfe. Its true, when this gucen of
Spain paffed from Germany into
Spain , by the way of Milan and
Genoa , the Governour of Milan
told her , that (he fhoald fee
in ^' 0r*Vs Pallace here many fine
things , but all borrowed of the
Townfmen. Which d'Oria hearing
of beforehand, caufed to be writ-
ten over the great Gates of the
Pal/ace , where the Jgueen was to
enter and lodge, thefe words in
Spanifh, By the Grace of God, and
the Kings favour \ there s nothing here
borrowed. It may be, the cunning-
Governotir of Milan thought by
telling the £ueen this , to oblige
the Duke D'Oria to prefent fome
of his beft things to the Queen, to
(hew her that they were his own .
as its faid, the late Duke of Buc-
kingham did in France, by break-
ing his Diamond Hatband among
the Court Lad es, who faid he had
onely borrowed it ; bur, the wife
Italian by this trick , both kept his
own , and yet fatisfied the jQueen.
Indeed he hath things here both
too good to be given away, and
E i-ii}; too
The Go-
vernment,
94 The Voyage'
too great to he carried away: wit-
nefs thofe rare Silver Tables which
are in his wardrobe , one whereof
weigheth Twenty four thoufand
pound weight. From the Pallace we
were led over the Street to his great
Garden upon the Hill fide, where all
the graces that can make ug a Gar-
den, are found.
As for the Government f Fafhions %
Wealth, Strength, and Interefi of
Genua, /found them to be thus :
Their Government , is 'Dmocra-'
tical , or Popular , by a Doge
(chofen every two years; and eight
Senators, who live with him in the
Vallace , and aflift him with their
counfel. The Great Council 'here,
which is the Foundation of the
Government, confifts of Four hun-
dred men chofen indifferently ouc
of all the Families of the Town.
Thefe deliberate with the Signo-
ria of all things that belong to
War or "Peace. Antiently , as /
hinted before , Genoa was under the
French Domination , till Andrea
d* Oria fet it free. Hiftories write
©fit that Benngarim the Third,an&
the
9%
of Italy.
the Sarazens fo ruined Genua, that
they left it fwimming in its own
blood : Which ruin was forewarned
by a prodigie of a fountain of b!oo<f
which ran in the very ftreets of
Genua. It had like to have fwamme
a fecond time in its blood, when
Lewis the XII of France entering
into Genua viftorioufly with fword
in hand, tbreatning the utter ruin
of that people , was pacified by the
mournful cries of four thoufand lit-
tle Children , who clad in fackcloth
and placed in the great Piaz,za,cry-
ed out to the King in a piercing
accent , Mifericordia e Viet a , Mer-
cy and P HI y. But fince Genua fhook
off the French Yoke , it hath lived
perpetually jealous of the French ,
especially fince it discovered , fome
years part, divers attempts oi France
againft it, whileft the French hid
Portolonrone and Fhmbino.
For this reafon ; the Genuefi lean
much to the SpamftFaclion; and
Vafhiont following VatJion , thev
lean alfo much to the Sfanijh
fafiion both in humor and apparel.
Hence I found here Broad Hats
E v without
Their
Fafkhm*
g6 The Voyage
without Hatbands, broad Leather
girdles with fleet buckles , narrow
Breeches with long-waited Doublets
and hanging- fleeves, to be a la
mode, as well as in Madrid, And
I found all the great Ladies here to
go like the Donnas of Spain in
Guardinfantas , that is, in horrible
overgrown Tartingals of whilebone,
which being put about the wafte of
the Lady, and full as broad on both
fides as (he can reach with her
hands, bear out her Coats in fuch
a huffing manner, that (he appearf
to be as broad as long. So that the
men here with their little dole
Breeches, looked like Tumblers that
leap through the houfs : and the wo-
men like thofe that danced anci-
ently the H»bbj-horfe in Country
Mummings. Two of thefe Ladies
meeting one another in thefe
narrow Streets , make as great
an Embarras as two Carts of Hay
do upon London Bridge : and I have
feen their Ladifhips ftrangely puz-
led how to juggle themfclves into
a narrow Sedan, or Littar: indeed
Half of my Ladj hangs out. For my
part
o»f F t aly: 9 j
part I admire that this Jealous Re-
pub/icl^ doih not fear, lead fome
of thefe Lad'e; ( upon a difguft)
fliould carry a fet of little fhvrc
Gum under her Coats, and under
pretence of preferring a Petition to
the Senate afTembled , give them a
broad- fide or two, and make a
horrible confufion in the Republic^.
If all this Bulk of Clothes, which
m ke the women here look like
Haycocks with armes and heads ^ be
allowed them by their wife huf-
bands, to render them more vifible 1
and lefs able to go privately into
any fufpe&ed houfes, it* good po-
licy .•other wife, moil: cm in it is,
that the wives governs cheat horri»
bly the Husbands br etches of aim oft
all the fluff. I have onely hesrd
(and it was from a Nobleman of
Genoa) of one Lady here chac made q^^;^
right ufe of thefe Guardinfamas^wd f a .„ ta n„
it was (Tie, who feeing her onely n M ts £'
Son (a young Nobleman of Genoa q^]^.
about eighteen years old) already prelerver
condemned to prifon, and ready to
be condemned to the Sc ffold for a
heinous crime, got leave to vifit
bim
8D»
etr
98 Th e Voyage
him in prifon as often as (he plea-
fed •, and at laft , by means of a
good Guardinfanta ot Steely inftead
of whale-bone (he took up her
Son under her Coats in that Guar-
dinfama ,. and marching out of the
prifon gravely , as (he ufed to do,
by leaning upon two ancient Wo-
men , as the Fafliion is here for
great Ladies to do , (he carried him
home fo • and being there deliver-
id of him a fecond time , without a
Midwife , (he fent him prefently
out of the Countrey to be nurfed
and kept. Thus (he faved her Fa-
milies honour. Was not this a true
Gtiardinfanta, which preferved thus
the life of a Child? But was not this
alfo a gallant Mother that went with
a Child who was full eighteen years
©Id when his Mother bore him? The
©nely pity was , that this gallant
Mother had not the happinefs once
to be Mother of a gallant Son/eeing
Ihehad had the trouble of bringing
forth fuch a Son twice.
As for their Riches r I am told
they pafle not a Million and two
hundred } thovfrndCroym a year. In-
deed
of Italy.
99
deed the King of Spain Philip the II
above a hundred ysars ago,borrow>-
ed of this Republic^ the fum of ele-
ven Millions , ani keeps them (till
in his hands, to ceep this Repub-
lic^ in awe ;, yet paying the inte-
reft duly unto them. So that the
Common purfe here is nothing fo
rich as that of Venice, though the
particular men here are farr richer
then thofe of Venice. They have
great Trading both with France
and Spain find, are great Banqukrs ,
making the Change in all the Bancks
of Europe go as they pleafe. Befides^
they utter a world of Taffata* } Vel~
vets, Sattins, Points of needle work,
and divers other things of Value.
As for their Strength, its enough Their
to defend themfdves, fcarce enough strength
to offend others. For Genoa is back'd
up by the d-pennins , where all paf-
fages are eafily made good againfl:
Invaders ;. and it is fo well fortifi-
ed on the other fide by the Sea-
it fclf j twelve or fourteen good
G allies > twenty Ships of Warr, and
its incomparable Molo y that they
could fcuflie notably in their own
defence
ioo The Voyage
defence. Befides v GV»<M is fortified
not onely with its Hills and Sea, but
alfo with its new walls and bull-
works of fione ^ nay, and with its
Bone-walls too, that is, with a La-
cedemonian ^oall of a world of Inha-
bitant^ and with the Illuftrious Fa-
milies of cC Oria t Spinola r Grimaldi>
Sauli , Vttrazjzi, Catanei , and
others, whofe feveral names would
go almoft for feveral Armies. Yet
for a need , they can raife thirty
thoufand men, and arme them well
out of their Arfenal.l confefs, here-
tofore they were ftrong enough to
offend others; for they made warr
agiinft che Tifani, and worfled
them : They fet alfo upon the /-
fand oiCorfica % diftant from Genoa
about a hundred miles, and took
it. This fhnd g^ve the Republic^
of Genoa more honour then pro-
fit : for, it be ; ng once a Kingdom,
gives full to Genoa t he Title of Se-
renifjima, and * Clofe Regal Crown
over its Coat of 4rmes. In fine, the
Genofi #ere itrong enough hereto-
fore, to lend greit fuccors to God-
freyof BnUenva his holy Conqueft
@f
of It al y> -*iot
o^Hierufalem. Hence upon the very
Arcaot the JJo/jSe pule her in Hie-
rufalem, are written thefe words i
Prtpotms (jemenfittm prajtdium.
As for their Jntereft, it feemed Their In*
to me to be farr more Spainifb then ttrtfl.
Frcncb,by reafon of the great profit
they dr iw from Spain , which cor-
refponds with the rich State of Mi-
lan in Men and Moneys , by means
or" the Genoefi: yet they are well
with all Ch'tfiian Princes^ except
with the Duke of. Sdvoj who pre-
tends to Savona,
As for the Learned men of this Their
Town, I find them no" to be fo learned
many. The rich Bmcjmer is more wen,
efteemed here r then the leirned
Dhine. Yet I find here uifo fome
famous for learning, ro wit, Bfiptifla
Tregofus, or Ktilgbfus, wh>.' for his
fitfg«|ar parts being chosen <>>#?of
Genoa, and by his own difloyal
kindred, chafed Scorn Government
and country ^comforted himself it! his-
Audits', and having obfeiv c u ma-
ny particular things in Biltory, be
reduced them co heads, ?nd left
vis a jnft volume of Memorable May-
ings
102 The Voyage
fags and Deeds of the Ancients s for
which work he is Ailed by Alberto
Leandro, the Valerius Maximnsoi
Italy. He wrote in Italian, and
dedicated his Book to his Son. The
other Learned men of this Town
are fuftinianus^ Balus, M a/car di,
and Chrijtofher Columbus.
Genoa alfo hath given to the
Church three Popes, Adrian the
V. Innocent the IV 3 and Innocent
the Vlir.
The A- Here is an Academy of wits cal-
cademy of 1 ed the Adormcntati^ which toge
Wits. ther with the other Academies of
the like nature in all theTownes of
Italy , I would wiftl my Travel-
ler to vifit particularly, that he may
fee how farr the Italians excel us ,
in parting their time well • and how
its much better to fpend the week
in making of Orations and Verfes ,
then in drinking of Ale and fmoak-
i«g of Tobacco.
Their Hi- He that defires to know more
fierian. of Genoa, let him read Augttftintts
fuftiniamtf of the Hiftory of Genoa.
Having fpent fix dayes in Genoa ,
we agreed with an honeft Vtunrina
to
o
f Italy. 103
to conduft us to Milan , which is Monftm
about four little dayes journey from
hence. In another voyage I went
from Genoa to Turin by Monferrat,
and fa w in my way Novi (of which
by and by ) Trim, Carole one of the
ftrongeft places of Italy ^ having a Cajfale.
ftrong Cittadelle^ a ftrong Cafile ,
ftrong Town-walls and ditches ;and
■Alexandria della pagtia, a ftrong
Town (landing upon the Po.
But now at this time leaving (7*- Alexan^;
noa J and intending for Mila-a\ we dria.
rid through San Pittro d' Arena ,
by the Carthufians Monafiery, over
the Appennin Hills> and in a day an<j
a half came to Novi,
Novi is a little ftrong Town 2VHf
belonging to the Genoefi , and
Frontier to the Milanefi. Its fome
twelve Miles diftant from Tortona ,
thefirft frontire Town or the State
of Milan : and becaufe thefe Fron-
tiers were then pefter'd with J5<*«-
dits, a Nobleman of Genoa y who
was in our company, be'gg'd of the
Governour of Novi, a Convoy for
himfelf and us, to fecure us to Torto-
- The Governor prefently granted
us
io4 The Voyage
us a Cm*?; of eight or ten horfe-
men: but, thofe very men he gave
us for our Convoy , were Bandits
themfelves, who being banifhed
from the State and Town of Genoa
for their mifdemeanours , had two
Moneths a year allowed them to
come freely into Frontier Towns,
and negotiate with [he State. Thek
men were thought by the Gover-
nour to be our fjfeft Guards in dan-
ger, who were the onely men that
caufed danger. Having been thus 1
convoyed fafely by our honeft
Rogues paft all danger , we payed
them fome three Ptjtoles ; and
feared no more danger , till we
fhould meet with fuch fervants as
thefe another time.I confefs,it feem-
ed at fir ft a fearful thing, to fee our
felves in the hands of thofe, who
had the ir hands often in blood : yet
there is fuch a charmeina Gover-
nors Parole r that we thought our
felves as w,ell armed with it, as if we
had been fliot-free, and had had all
the Spells of Lapland about w.
TortoKA. V Ve had no iboner pirted from
thefe our Guards, but pa/ling over
a
of Italy. 105
a little River on Horfeback , we en-
tred into the MiUnefe, and came at
night to Tomna a ftrong frontier
Town of the Milanese , where
Charles the VI LI of France , in his
return from the Conqueft of Na-
ples, beat the Venetians and the Mi-
lencfi in a battel.
From Tortona we went the next
day to Pavia, the fecond Town of
the State of MiUn^xA once thefeac
of twelve Kings of the Longobards. Pwfa
It Hands upon the River Hcimm,
and hence its alfo called in Laein rr. .
TkinHnt' Heres an Vniverjtty
cither founded or furniflied at M r
with Readers, or by Readers of the
Vniverfitj of Oxford. The chief Col-
ledges are.that of Pius Jguintus, and
that of S.ChArfes Bmom&Ms. The
other remarkable things here, are.
J. The Dcmoy in which lieth buried The Do*
the body of a holy Bifhop of this mo.
Town, called Sauli t who was con-
temporary to S. Charles Borrom*tts y
and of the fame Paftoral fpirit and
zeal. Near the great door of this
Church (on the infidej they fhew
you a little Mag of a Boat which
num.
106 Th e Voyage
they make ignorant people believe
(for fport) to have been the Lance
of Orlando Furiofo.
The E* 2. Near the Domo^ in the Piaz-
qrteftris ^a, ftands a Brazen Statue \ which
Statua fome affirm to be the Statue of
of ' Ant<r_ Conft amine the Great} others, more
vinus* probably^ of Antoninus Pius. It was
brought from Ravenna hither by
Victory-, and it had like to have
bten carried back again to Ra-
venna by Vittory. For Lotrech the
French General in the taking ol this
Town , having granted this Sta-
tue to a Souldier of Ravenna (who
ferved under him, and who ha-
ving mounted the Breach firft ,
asked nothing for his recompence
but that Statue >, taken anciently
from his Native Town) Yet after-
wards moved with the generofity
of the Townfmen ( who having
left all things elfe with fome pa-
tience, to the prey of the Souldiers,
Burfl: into Tears, when they heard
that this Statue was to be taken
from them ) Lotrech changed his
guift to the Souldier, and left the Ci-
tizens of Pavk their dear Statue.
3. I
of Italy. 107
3. Haw the Auguftins Church , S. AuPtt-
where the body of that great Father fl iHS y ^\
of the Church S. Augufiin lieth
buried. It was tranflated hither
out of Sardinia by Luit^randm
King of the Longobards ; an arme of Baron.aK
which S. Augujiin a King of Eng- r 2 5 ^
I and redeemed at a great rate, and B* rm > an *
yet cheap too, if it were his wri- l02 5». "*
ting arme , wherewith he wrote
fuch admirable Books. The new
Tombe in the Sacrifiy is all of white
Marble, rroftexquilitly carved with .
Hiftorical Statues reprefenting the
moft remarkable adions of that
Bettor.
4. In the fame Church we were The
fhown the Tombe of Severing Tons be of
Bcetius Author of that great little Seven-
Book de Conjolatione Thilofahica, nus Boe-
which he wrote in hisexile,tocom- tint,
fort himfelf He was a Conful of
Rome for dignity, another S.Denjs See Ba-
tor learning and lofinghis headland ron. an.
held a Martyr by many. 525.
5. In the Cloifler of this Convent
of the Auvuftins , lie buried two
EngHJbmen of note, the Duke of
Suffolk and an EngUJh Bijhop cal-
led
Learned
men.
The Hi-
fiorians.
10S Th e Vo'y a ge -
led Parker, of the Houfe Ql*MorUy,
read their feveral Epitaphs upon
the wall of this Cloifter near the
little door that goes from hence in-
to the Church, but have forgot them
fince-
6. The Chappel where the Bones
of the Frenchmen killed in the Bat-
'•telefPavia are kept andfhown to
ftrar.gers.
7. In the Framifcans Church
here, lies buried Baldns the famous
Jurifconfult. ,
8. The long wodden- Bridge, co-
vered over head with a perpetual
Pemlioufe, to defend men as well
from the Sun, as from the Rain.
Of this Town were Ennoditu TV-
cinenjis, and Lanfrancns Archbifhop
of Canterbury* who wrote fo lear-
nedly fgainft Berengarim for the Re-
al Pre fence.
He that defires to know the par-
ticular Hiitory of ravia , let
him read Antonio Spelta, and Sac-
co.
From Pavla we went to Milan %
fome twenty miles off-, and in the
way, faw the famous Monafiery of
the
of Italy. 109
the Carthuftans , near unto which f
upon S. Matthias Ms day (ad.'.y
favourable to Charles the V, feeing -
he was borne on that day ; crowned
Emperour on that day ; and got
this Victory on that day) was fought
that memorable Battel between the 7^ g at z
faid Emperours Forces, and the telcfPa*.
French King^An. 1 52.5. where Fran- v ' %At
ckthe I. of />v?»a was taKen Prifo-
ner, having loft the day,not for want
of courage,but conduti : for he had
a little before, fent away half of his
Army to the conqueft of Naples ;
j by which he fo weakened the reft
of his Army here, that he both loft:
the day, and did nothing ag^inft
the Kingdom of Naples : a great
faulty obferved by one that was <^ ^ n-
prefent there , to wit , Monfiwr ^ u y s
Monluc. Francis being thus taken Q omm(n .
prifont-r,was prefently conducted to tar ' lcSt
the Carthfifians Monastery y which
was hard by. Entering into the
Church, and finding the Monks
fwging.in the third hour this verfe
of the Pfidme^ Cwgu latum eft ft-
cut lac cor eorum,ego verc legem tnam
mtditattu fum, he ftruck up with
them
1 10 The Voy a ge
them at the next verfe, and Sung,
aloud with a piety as great, as his
lofs, or courage , Bonum mi hi quia
humiliafti me , ut difcam jufttfica-
tiones tvtas : that is, its well for me
that thou haft humbled me ,that i may J
learn thy fujiifications. After he had
heard Mafs here, he w; s carried
to Dinner in the Minaftery , and
was ferved by three Generals of the
Spanijh Army, Launey , Bcurbcn ,
and the Marquis of Vafti: the one
holding the baftn t the fecond pouring
water upon his hands ^ and the third
prefenting him the towel. Some fay
he refufed to be ferved by Beurbm^
looking upon him as a revoked
Jraytor , rather then as an enemy .-
indeed the brave French Knight
Bayard (firnamed, the Chvaliev
favsfeur, whodiedin this Battel,)
being founcf expiring in the field,
by Bourbon, who fatd to him, Peer
Bayard ! I pitty thee 5 anfwered him
with all "the courage and life that
was left him; No y Traytcr, J am
net to be pittytd, who dye nobly
ferving my King and Country : but, j
thou rather art to be pit tied, who
liveft :
O P 4
TAX Y.
Ill
live ft a Tray tor to thy Khg and
Country. As for the King be was led
)rifoner into Spain , where he was
cepr at Madrid till, he, p^yd his
ranfom. Hence the Spaniards br* g t
that they had once a French King
?rifoner, and the French had never
any King of Spain prifoner : but
the French anfwer , that their King
lad not been prifoner had he foughc
is the Kings of Spayn do of late,
hat is, by Proxie, and not in perfon.
however this Francis the firft de-
served better fortune, being a Princt
If great courage and honour, and
i great lover of his Souldiers; For
lot long before , he had beaten
he Smjfers in the battle of San
%nato , where his Souldiers foughc
pr him with lingular courage and
teal. And he had (kferved it all :
■tor he was fo good to his Souldiers
n that expedition that he would
ide up and down the Camp in the
jight to vifit the wounded Souldiers.
hd help them to all necefTarJes;
lommanding even His own fleets
p be cut in pieces to bind up their
pounds.
F As
Monajle
rj.
Ill The Voyage
As for the Monaster) it felfof
The Car- the Carthufiam^ its one of the moft
thttfians {lately Monafteries of Italy, and I
believe, the fecond of that Order.
The great Cloifie* is" all covered with
fead. The Church is one of the hand*
fomeft-of Italy, though builr a la Tc
defca. TheFroncifpice of it is adorn-
ed with a world of heads and figures
of white marble. The Chappels with-
in are richly adorned and painted.
The Tabernacle is worth fourfcore
thoufand crowns. The I omb of their
founder , . fohn Galeaz,z,o Vifconti,
Duke of Milan, which ftands a little
Without the Squire, with the cuntbent
Statues of Ludovico Moro the lafl:
Duke of Milan and his Wife, lying
under the other, is a- ftateiy Monu-
ment. In the Sacrifly we were fliown
many fine Relickj, much rich Church-
plate, and the curious back of an Al-
tar of Ivory cut into Hiftories after a
rare manner,
Paffing from hence we came to
Milan. This Town is furnamed
the Great $ and rightly, feeing it
carries full ten miles in compafs
within the wails. Jc hath ten Gates
to
Milan)
Of I T AL Y. XI£
co ic ^ two hundred Churches tvith-
in ic , and three hundred thou-
. fand fouls dwelling in it. Hence ic
Wit anciently called Altera Roma,
| a feconid Rome, both becaufe of its ^heDutZ
greatnefs , and becaufe of its other ^ r
titles t which made it look like ^/j^
Rome. Its the Head of the beft
Dutchy in Europe, which is a hun-
dred miles long from North to
South % and containeth four hun-
Towns in it. Its called Milan quafi
Midland , being a pure Mediterra-
nean Town, and having ( which is
a wonder ) not fo much as a river of
its own running in it ^ but is onely
ferved by two Channels cut ouC of the
Time and the Adder. This Town
hath heretofore fuftered much by
warre - great Towns being the fair-
eft Marks to (hoot at, and Milan
hath been forty times ftioc ac by
Siege*, and twenty tin: es hit, and ta-
ken, having had the misfortune to
have been under divers factions
and Rulers : as the Emperours, the
Turriani, the Vifconti, the Sforze,
the French , and vhe Spaniards, who
now keep it, merceal Caftdlo, which
Fij fhveth s
114 The Voyage
ftaveth off all V ttempts of ftrangers-
France pretends to this Dutch] as
heir of Valcntia Vifconty^ who was
marryed to £ems Duke of Orleans,
whofehoufe was excludrd from this
Dutchy by Francis Sforza, who pof.
fefledfiimfel" of r.his State,
As for the things which I faw in
Milan, they are thefe.
Store of I. *he ftore of Gentry and iW,-
Gentry. bility here, which i perceived to be
very numerous , becaufe of an hun-
dred Coaches f no Hackneys,) which
I faw ftandmg before a Church
upon a private Festival day 6f that
Church.
Store ef 2." Great (lore of . Artlfans y as
Artizans Goldfmithsj Armourers, Gunfmiths 5
Weavers, hi!kftocking-makers 5 Re-
finers of Gold, thofe that work in
Cryflalfind a World of others .• which
gives occafion to the Proverb ? which
faith, that he that would improve all
S Italy, mufl deflroy Milan fir]} : for if
Milan were deftroyed, the many Ar-
tizans that are there 3 would fpreid
overall jt.dy, and furrsifh the other
Town*, which -WW" Artisans
3. The Churches here , arid fir ft
.1 that
Of Italy. II 5
that of S. Ambrofe, where that glo-
rious Father of the Church refufed
ftoutly to Theodofius the Emp.rour ,
entrance into that Church 9 beciufe
of his pafiionate commanding the
Afaffacre at Thejfalonica , where
feven thoufand men were murder-
ed for the fault of a few. Under
the high Altar of this Church lyeth
the Body of S. Ambrofe ^ as alfo the
bodies of S. Gtrvafius and Prota-
fiw, two primitive .SWff/.r. whofe bo-
dies were found whiles S. Attftin
lived at Milan ^ and who alfo re-
lates a famous and known Miracle
to have been wrought by.GW, at
the Trdnflatibn of thofe holy Mar-
tyrs bodies into this' Church. In this
Chmch alfo is feen upon a high
Pillar of a round form ' a Brazen
Serpent, like that erected by ■ Mo-
fes in the .-.pefert, and commanded
by God hirhfeif to be made. I ira;-
gin it wM fet up here for the fame
end, for which it was commanded by
God to be fet up myfticalJy in the
Defert, that is, to put men in mind of
our Saviours exaltation upon the
Croft for mankind \ the frequent
- F 2 memory
S. Am-
brofe his
Church*
S. Am- .
brofe his \
Tomb.
Reads'.
Augxfiin
lib. 9. ■
Conf. c.r.
Numb.
John 3,
!l6 The Voyage
memory of which is a Scverain An-
tidote againft the flings of the infernal
ferpent the Devi/,
4. Near unto the forefaid Church
of S. Ambrofe ftands the little Chap-
pel, where S Auguflin with his little
Adeodatus and his friend Alipfius
was baptized, as the words over the
Altar teftify -, and from this little
Chappel S. Ambrofe and S. Auguflin
(now a Chriflian) going procefiio-
nally to the Great Church , made
The the Hjfmn Te Deum, as they went •
Hymn one ma king one Verfe t the other an-
Te Deum other.
5. The other little Chappel on
the other fide of S. Ambrofe his
Churchy is built upon the place
where S. Auguflin was nrft con-
verted by a voice which faid to
him , Tolle lege, To/le lege : mean-
ing S. Pauls Epiftles : which he do-
ing, pitched juft upon thofe words
The place to the Romans. Non in cubilibus &
of the impudicitiu , fed induimini Jefum
Converfi- Chriftum^ &c. And fo of an im-
•*of m S. pure Maniehean he became a chaft
Auflin,'^ Chriflian.
6, I fawadjoyningco this Church
of
Ob Italy. II 7
©f S. Ambrofe the ftately Mom- The O
fiery , with two curious Cloislers flertians
buik upon round pillars;. The Mo- Mcna-
natfrery, as well as S. Ambrofe his fiery.
Church belongs to the Cifiertian
Mcnks.
7. Then I faw the Church of S. S.Vittcrs
ViEior belonging to the Olivetan Church.
Fathers; with the admirable picture
of S. George killing the Dragon , of
the hand of Raphael Vrbin. This is
a neat Church when it is adorned in
its feeft hangings 5 as it was when I
faw it. The double Cloifters hereof
the Momfiery built upon round pil-
lars ought to be feen.
8L In the Church of S.N sarins s.Naza*
are to be feen the Tombs of the Tri- r j 0m
vftlti'r, {lately Monuments.
9. In the Church of S. Eufiorgius
I law the Area , or old Tomb , in
which repofed the bodies of the three
Magi who came to adore our Savi- S. Mu-
cur in Bethleem, whofe bodies were flcrgw,
tranflated from hence to Cclen in
Germany , where I have feen them,
by reafon of the deftra&tion of
Milan.
10. I faw alfo the Church of S.
F iiij L*u~
Il8 The" V oy a g i
Lynrence , built like that of Santla
Sophia in Conftantwople. Here lies
buryed Placidia the Sifter of Hono-
rita the Emperour.
it. There are clivers other
Churches here, all worth particular
vifiting, by reafon of fome rare
thing in them : as in that of S.
Mark^y the rare peece of Simon
Magus his fall from the skyes. In
that of the Pajfion the rare, picture
of the lafi Supper, by Chryftophoro
Cibo. In that of S.Ceifo, a nre pi-
cture of Raphaels hand in the S aerify.
The Theatins^ and the fefmts Church-
es are' very neat.
1 2 But the belt of all the Churches
The Do- of Milan is the new Domo , in the
aw. midft of which lyeth fcufytc! the
new S. Ambrose of Milan * I mean
S. Charles Bonomaus , an ocW S.
Ambrofe in Paftoral dignity , zeal,
and fandtity. This Church I take
to be the fecond in Italy for folid
work ; buing built all of white mar-
ble,, with lies and Pillars , each
Pillar worth ten thoufand crowns, &
there are a hundred and threefcore
fuch
Of Italy. M£
furch Pillars in all, of ma/five white S % Loren\
marble • not candied and frozen *?»
over with a thin cruft of marble j
as moft of the other fine Churches
of Italy are. There are alfo rjx hun*
dred white marble Statues fet round
about the out-fide of this Church ,
each of them coft a thonfand
crowns. That of S. Bartholomew
with his skin upon his arm ; and
that of Adam, are two pieces much
admired, and are of the-hand of Chri-
ftophoro Cibo. The Frontiftice is not
yet finifhed : but if that be the true
defign of it, which I have feen in
pictures , in the Capuchins Coifter
in Rome, it will be moft (lately.
T l e Church it felf isfaid to be 250
cubits long. Near the Quire , and
almoft in the middle of the Church,
lyeth the body of S. Charles Borromem
in a low Vault , turned now into a
Chappel, open at the top with low
raytes round about it • The infide of
this Chappel is hung with hangings
of cloth of gold, over which runs a
Cornijh of filver plate nailed to
the wall. Upon the Altar lyeth
the body of S. Charles at length in
F v a
T20 T H E V
O Y A G B
a fair Qrjfal Coffin made of fe veral
great fquares of Qrjftal, through
which (the wood den Cafe being
opened by fpecial leave from the
Archbifhop^) we law his body lying
aH along in his Epifcopal robes i.
His face, hands, and feet , are onely
feen, and his nofe and Upps are
lhrunck and parched. The true
Picture of this Saint hangs at the
entrance below into this Chappel,
and hisHiftory and wonderful Acti-
ons are hung up in painting round
about the Church on high. Over
the high Altar , in the very rosfoi
The Hdj the Church, is kept one of the Nails
MaH of the Crofs of our Saviour , given
anciently to the Milanefi by the Em-
perour Theodoftus. There burn al-
wayes before it a number of littfe
Lamps ) fet crofs-wife, and drawn
up thither with a pully , to fhew
the people where that holy Relick U.
In fine, the Steeple of this Church is
not to be forgotten. Its not quire
finilhed yet, but its high enough
to tyre any man 5 and tofhew him
from the top of if, the whole Town
«f Milan, the whole cempafs and
circum-
O F I T A L Y. ilJt
circumference of the rare Co/Me-, and
the whale Country round about for
twenty miles on every fide : a fighc
fo pleafant , that I would wifli my
Traveller, not only to mount up to
the top of this Steeple , but ( for
this Steeples fake) to make it his
conftant pra&ife fas I did,) to
mount up the chief Steeple of all great
Towns.
13. The great Hofpital built in a The Hofi
quadrangle upon arches and round pitaL '.
pillars is a moft magnificent thing.
Really if ficknefs were not a little
unwholefome and troublefome , a
man would almoft wifh to be a little
fick here, where a King, though
in health , might lodge handfouiely,
The place where the fick people
are kept, is built crofs-wife, and
in the middle of that crofs , ftand*
an open Altar where all the fick
people from their feveral quarters
and from their very beds 3 may
hear the Divine Service at once.
Four thoufand men are .entertained*
daily in this Hofpital, and there- .
fore k hath great Revenue?. «5\
Charles was a great Pensfa&w rr>
t.\
The Se-
nary.
Ill The Voyacs
it, and gave away to it and other
pious ufes, in half an hour, five and
twenty thousand Crowns of Inheri-
tance, which were fallen to him (be-
ing a man of eminent birth) half an
hour before. Indeed he had no other
Wife then his Church , nor other
Children then the Poor.
14. The {lately Seminary •, and
the Coliedge for the Swijfers, are no-
ble buildings, and the Eternal works
The Col- of the aforefa - d s Charles,
ledge oj
2 he Swif-
fers.
The Laz.
%>areto*
15. The Lazzaretto is a Vaft
building, carrying in compafs a
thoufand and eight 'hundred yards.
It ftands near the Town walls ,
yet out of the Town , and it is
to receive into it Thofe that are
fick of the plague. There are as
many Chambers in it , as there are
dayes in the year. In the middle
of the fquare of this vaft Court, or
Quadrangle, ftands a round C happel ,
covered at the top-, but open on all
fides in fuch a manner , as that all
the people from iheir feveral Cham-
bers and beds, may behold the Prhfl
faying Divine fervict, and joyn their
devotions
Of Italy. I2§
devotions to his. 1 have read in the
life'of S. Charles Borrom&us, that in
a plague time, he vifited thofe that
were infe&ed, and miniftred the
holy Sacraments to them himfelf in
perfon • and went in a folemn Pro-
ceffion in the head of the Clergy,
with a rope about his neck, and
barefoot upon the ftones, to move
ftony hearts to repentance , and to
appeafe thewrathof God angry with
his people.
1 6. The Bibliotheca \ Ambrofmna ~i ^^
is one of the beft Libraries in Italy , #
becrufe it is not fo coy as the others, \
which fcarce let themfelves be feen ^
whereas this opens its dores pub-
licity to all comers and goers , and
furTers Them to read what book
they pleafe. It was begun to be
builded by S. Charles, and continued
by bis Nephew Cardinal Federico
Borromao : but it was much aug-
mented fince by the acceffion of
Vincentim Pint Hi's books, which
after his death, being (hipped by
his heirs for Naples , and taken by. "■
the Turks, were many of them
thrown over board by thofe anal-
phabet
124 The Voyage
phabet Rogues , who looked for
other merchandize than Books. Yet
many of them were recovered argain
for Money, and fet uphere. Over
the heads of the higheft Shelves, are
fet up the Pictures of Learned Men,
a. thing of more coft: , than profit;
feeing with that coft many more
Books might have been bought , and
Learned Men are beft feen in their
Books and Writings, Loyuere , m tt
videam.
The Gal- J 7* behind tne Librtry ftands
of Pi. ^ e gallery of Pictures , where I
CI tires ^ aw man y choice Originals of prime
Matters 3 and fome exquifite Copies ,
as thofe four Pieces of the Four Ele-
ments , which certainly are copied
after thofe that Ldefcribed above in
the Houfe of the Vuchefe of Savvy
near Turin , called La Valentine. But
the rareft piece or all , either in the
Library , or here , is the rare Mamt*
fcript Kept here , of Alberto Dureo.
Three hundred Pounds havebeenre-
fufed for ir.
The D*- 1 8. The Dominicans Library is
minkans. ver y confiderable too. But you
muft not omit to fee the Refe&my
here,
Of I t a t y. ti$
here , where you ftiall find an ad-
mirable Pi&ure of the Loft Supper
made by Rare Laurentins Vincius,
The Painted Cleitter here defervesa
Vifittoo.
19. The Monaflery alio called the The Gra>
Gratis 5 is one of the beft in Eume 5 tie*
in whofe Church is a rare Piclure of
Chrifi crowned with thorns , of the
hand of Titian.
20. The Famous Gallery andCu- 7^ ££
riofitics of Canonico Setali 3 far bet- fc m p
ter than that of Mon[\eur Servier in Canmico
Lyons } of which above. And here Setali.
1 wiftt my Pen were as ingenious to
defcnbe all the rare things of this
Gallery , as the noble Canon fetali
hath been in gathering them , and
courteous in fhewing them : fome
of thefe curious things I yet remem-
ber, for my Readers fake; as a
great variety of Burning:glaj[es , and
yet not Convex , as ours ordinarily
are ^ one of them fet fire prefently
to a piece^of board an inch thick
that was brought forth. 2, A Man*
dragora. 3 A bird without feet, called
by Ariflctle Apodes. 4. A Stone OUC
©f which is drawn a thread y which
being
tt&l The Voyage
being fpun and woven, makes a
Stuff like linnen indeed , but of an
incombuftible nature : The Scone is
called Asbeftos^ and the fluff Amy-
anthut , which being fowl and
-'ibyld^ ,* is not % be made clean by
wafhfng in Water, but by- throwing
into the hfe. Baltazar Bomfacitts
in his HifiorU Ltidicra tells of many
who h?d fuch ftuff 5. A world of
rare MeUds of the old Gonfuls
and Emperours in filver , gold, and
brafs, making divers feries. 6. A
world' of wooden things, as alfo
fruits, and fungi, all petrified and
turned into fione ; and yet no rneta-
morphojis neither , the things re-
taining their priftin formes. 7., Di-
vers curious Clocks , whereof one
fliews the time of the day (ftrajtige)
even in the night by a quadrant. 8. The
little round Cabinet fat above Hike a
childs drum, with a fmooth gl'afs :
The Matter fetting little Ships,
Coaches, &c. upon the glafs^ they
wheel and move up aS9 ~dowr>
as it were of themfelves .• when all
is done by a fympathetical virtue
and by the Matters turning fecrctly
Of Italy. t2j
a lictle wheel where there is fatten-
ed fome loadflone , and the little
Ships and Coaches having alfo
fome piece of iron in their bottoms
which touch the glafs ; and fo the
iron running after the loadftone
moved by the wheel , makes thefe
Ships and Coaches feem to move of
themfelves. 9. A piece of a thunder-
bolt, which the Camn himfelf faid he
had cut out of a mans thigh ftrucken
with it. 10. Divers pieces of Co-
ral juft as it grows in the Sea.
11. "A lirtle Pillar two handful!
high of marble , fo cracked , that
it gapeth wide on one fide with the
crack, and yet holdeth together
faft on the other fide 4 as a greac
ftick of green wood cttfth, when it
is bent Co farre on one fide as to
gape, and yet fticks together on thtf
other. 12. A. world of rich fe#^
firange /tones , cameos^ pUures , cryf-
tals, little infants in -wax in glafs
cafes, and taany other exotld^rari-
ties, which are better feen then de-
ferred.
t -u. Some Palaces here-, as that $ ome
of the Governours , rather vaft then peaces,
curious,
The
Caftte.
128 The Voyage
curiour ; and fitter to lodge Regi-
ments of Guards in, then Viceroys.
The Palace of Marini is of a noble
ftru&ure. That of the Archbifhop is
very handfome. I fawalfo the Pa-
lace of the Bcrromai painted within
at the entrance, with the Mom of
S. Charles, (who was of chis Family)
HUM IL IT AS. Its reined in the
life of this Holy Pre/ate that in twen-
ty years fpice that he was Arch'
bijhop and Cardinal here, he went
but twice to vifit his own near
Relations in this Palace, and de-
fended but twice into his own
Garden in his Archiepifcopal Pa-
lace : fo much work found he it to
play the part of an Archbijlnp well.
The Palaces alfo of the Vifanti
of the Sforze, of the Tr'wultU, and 1
many others, deferve to be feeh
exactly.
22. The Cajile, or Citudelle,
One of the belt in Europe , in the
opinion of the Duke of Rohan, a
competent Judge. It ftands within
and without the Town, that is ar
the back of the Town , like a rod
tied
Of Italy. 1*9
tied at the cbilds back, to keep
him in pwe. fts garded by a Gar-
rifon of five hundred natural Spa-
march , with a fpecial Governour of
its own, independant of the Gover-
nour of Milan. 1 1 looks more like
a Town than a Caflle-^ being a
mile and a half about, and furnifli-
ed with all conveniences a Souldier
can require, The large Streets in ic-
Thc ftately Houfes and Palaces for
the chief Commanders; the neac
Piazzas ; the number of well fur-
niftied Shops in all kinds, even
Goldfmiths too ; the five Fountains,
or Wells, not to be dryed up 5 the
Mill* the Hofpital- the Church j
with eight or ten Chaplains in it,
and a Cnrare; the fair place of
Arms, capable of fix thoufand men;
two hundred great pieces of Canon
upon the walls ; the frx Royal Ba-
ttions, the regular Fortifications or
Outworks^ the underground way
from one Baftion to another; the
infinite heaps of Canon bullets, fome
whereof weigh 800 pound weight j
the three large and deep Ditches
found about the Cattle; the {lately
Entrance,
13° The Voyage
entrance Gate, and two ftronj
Towers, make this Caftle one of th<
moft Cavalier curiofities a man canl
fee in Italy. 1 hey (hewed trie herel
. the Cannon which killed /MarefkalX
Cree/uy before Breme , and for that!
fervice its allowed to reft here fori
ever.
Thejbops. 2h The Shops of Cry ft ah, where |
you have a world of curiofities in!
Cryftal : as Watch-cafes, Twizer-;
cafes, little Boxes, Pi&ures cut in Cry- 1
ftal, Croffes and Beads of Cry ftal.&c. \
The Shops alfo of Silk-ftockings which
are hugely efteemed in Italy beetle
they are twice as ftrong as ours, and j
Very maflive. The Shops, in fine, of
Embrodmrs , whofe embrodery in
%#& and filver is the bell In the world,
and the cheapelt.
24. Here is an Academy. of Wits^
called die Notfcofti^ox. Hidden men.
But- why Hidden f feeing wit ,
like the Sun^ (houtd (bine publick-
ly , and not bury it felf ^ except it.
be to fhew us, that as the Sun
never fhines brighter, then after he
hath been hidden In a Cloud : fo
Wit never (hines more, then after
ic
The A-
cademj
efPVits.
Of I t a^ty. 131
hath been hidden in Study.
Iftenee was thac faying of a grave
Whilofopker, Abfconde vitam 'h^ris,
ye Hidden a while, ai.thedug 1 :he
100k. Indeed Demjihews caufed'
(is hair to be (haved off , that by
mat deformity he might beafhamed
p £0 abroad, and fo be obliged
fludy a' home. As for this
\tcadtmj , it help* much to animate
|Kth wit this great T©wn , which
therwife would look like Polyphe-
|p# (having loft his eye) great,
Dt blind. Tumor Hon eft mag'
\fudd.
25. Tbe mod famous men of this The fear-
I own for learning, have been thefe: md men,
\flerim Maximm for Hiftory : Al-
\&tM 3 Deciw, and fa/on for Law :
ytrdan for Philofophy : Panigarola^
d Paulas Arefms for Sermons;
\macina for Canon Law j and Ofia-
\tes Ferrarim (whom I knew lately
! Padua) for belle lettere.
I26". Two other men here are fa- ^ n f
[bus for other things ; to wit Vberto ^ /
Vtucio, and Gulielmo Puftcrula; the J ' ,
ft (6 ftrong, that he could ftop a L *f? ° Q f
llrfe in his full gallop uith Qms: Aim °
hand
'A JiroHg
mind,
■Its Reve-
nues*
Its
Strength
Its hi
ftorians*
131 The Voyage
hand; Ufr up upon his back a horfe
lopden with Corn-, and (land fo
ftifly upon his leggs that no man,
though running againft him with
all his force, could pufti Mm out
of his pi .ce or podure. The other
wichout any learning at all , except
his fM Grammar Rudiments, could
with his natural wit onely , decide
Law-cafes, and make fuch good Or-
ders, that the beft Lawyers could
not find what to add to them , or
what to diminifli from them. Its
piety thefe two men had not been
melted into one, to have made one
excellent man, by their clubbing
mt and force together, and their
mingling of Sana mens, with Cor-
pore fano.
The Revenues that Spain draws
from Milan yearly, are two millions
and four hundred thou/and Crowns ,
befides the thirds , to which they are
obliged in time of war.
This State for a need can raife
, fifty thouftnd men.
He that defires to know the Hi-
ftorv of MiUn, !er 'urn read Cork
of the Hiftory of Milan : Ripa-
mont'ms,
Of Italy. 13$
wont us, Scipio Barbono, of the Lives
of the Dukes of Milan, and PaoU
Morigi. ^
Having thus feen Milan in fix
dayes time , we took horfe for B 0m
logna, fix da yes journey from hence,
and pafled through Marignan* %
Lodi , Piacenza , Parma , Regit 1 ,
Modetta, Fort Vrbam , and fo to
Bologna ' t of each I will fay fome-
thing.
Marignano is a little Town about Marig-
bai miles diftant from Milan , and nam.
- rom thence to Lodi the way is moft
pleafant, and level as an alley. Near
to this Town Francis the firfi of
France fought with the Swiffers a
&mous Battle , and killed 1 6000 of
them, and took Ludovicm Sforza
(he Buk$of *yiilan, who thought to
' ave Fc ped in Smjfers clothes, but
tvas difcovered.
Lodi is a good juft Town , and Lodi t
frontier upon the Venetians, the
River Adda runs under its walls.
Its called Lodi , either becaufe its
built upon the ruines, or near to
bid Lodi, which was called Lam
fomfnt, becaufe Pomfey had re-
ftored*
134 The Voyage
ftored it.' This Tovn is f mons for
excellent Ncats tongues, and Cheefes
asbigas^//W>. t A Gentleman of
this own < caufed : four ..oheefes to
be va$4%\&ch one weighing 50,0
pou id veighr. The people here rnow
then iiy three times a year* and I
am air; id they ^re powled a9 often
with Taxes.
Placenta Placenta > or Pleafance, defer ves
its name', by.resfon of its fweer fi-
tuation in a rich Country near the
Po and Trebia, two great Rivers.
Near the lafl: of which Hannibal
overcame Sempronim the Roman
Conful. The Country round ibouc
this Town, is very rich in pajlurage :
Hence their excellent Cheefes and
rare Cream. It aboundeth alfo in
Salt pits which afford no final profit.
This Town belongs to the Duke of
Parma.
hs Ra- The beft things to be feen here
rities, - are , the Equsftris flatua of the
fecond Alexander the Great , or
the fir ft Alexander of Parma. "Its in
brais in the Marker-place. The
old Fountain made by Augufim
Caftr. The rare pi&ure of Raphaels
hand
Of J T AL *.- 13 J
hand, in the Beneditlins Church
behind the high Altar. The Chur-
ches of the 'Dominicans , and the
Cwm* Regulars are no contemtible
Ones.
I obferved in this Town a no- A plf c ~$
table peece of thrifcinefs ufed by c f thrift 3
the Gentlewomen, who make no
fcruple to be carried to their
Countrey houfes near the Town in
Coaches drawn by two Cowes
yoaked together : Thefe will car-
ry the Signer* a pretty round trot
unto her Villa : They afford her
alfo a difti of their milk, and after
collation, bring her home again
at night without /pending a pen-
ny-
He that defires to know more /£
of Ptictnza, let him read Vmfarti ffiffcfjl
Loccati.
Of PiacenxA^ where Cornelim Muf-
fo y Biftiop of Bitmi, a great Preach-
er, and a Trent Father; as alfo Fer-
rante PalUvicini.
Parma belongs alfo to the Duke Parma$
cf Parma , of the houfe of Farnefr.
This Dutchy was given to Pier
■f>ni£ farnefe by Panltu HI, upon
G condition
%$$ T HlVoTACB
condition it ftiould hold of the
Pope, and pay him yearly Ten thou-
sand Crowns. Its worth to the
DukeTwo hundred thoufand Crown?.
This Town of Parma is three
miles in compafs , hath the River
Parma running through it , oyer
which is built a handfome Stone
Bridge. The Countrey round about
the Town is moft fertil , and begets
fuch credit to the Cheefes , th at Par-
wefan Cheefes are famous over all the
- World,
yj^ The Chief things Co to be feen in
Dukes Parma, arethefe, The Dukes Pal-
fAlUct* l* ce * w * tn &t Gardens, Fountains,
Wild Beafts , the admirable Theater
to exhibit Optra's in. The exquifite
Coaches df trie Duke -, one whereof
is
Seats and Curtains
with Gold and Silver ,
well gilt and adorned, that it's almoft
as rich as the former. LalUy , the
Stables , where I faw Horfes lutable
both in ftrength and beauty to the
forefaid Coaches.
The Then I went to the Demo , whofe
Dorm, Cupola was painted by the rare
hand
all of beaten Silver , with the
embroidered 1
•. another fo
Of I
my.
137
hand of Coreggio.
Laftly , To the Capmuts \ in The
whofe Church lies buried my No- Capucins.
ble Hem , Alexander Farnefe Duke Altxan-
of Parma , whom I cannot meet ^ p 4r .
in this my Voyage without a ne t u
Compliment. He was the Third
Duke of Parma , but the Tenth
Worthy. Indeed his leaping theffrft
man into the Turks Galleys in the
Battle of Lepanto 5 with Sword in
hand , and in the Eighteenth year
onely of his age , was fuch a Pro-
I gnoftick of his future worth ^ his re-
ducing Flanders again , with the
^prodigious actions done by him at
I the taking of Antwerp , was fuch a
! making good of the Prognoftick ;
I and his coming into France in his
\slippers and Sedan to fuccour Rouen $wk
ibeueged by Henry the IV , was fuch Critic ks
a crowning of all his other actions, hold
I that his Hiftory begets belief to S*tintus.
^uintM Curtius , and makes men Curtiiu
believe , that Alexanders can do any t9 be a
thing. R.o%Ace~ %
The Revenues of this Prince The
are faid to be Six hundred thouj and Dukes
1 Crowns a year. He is now of theRevewe 1
G i) French
reft.
His For
ces.
TheA-
138 T.he Voyage
French Faction ; and in all his
Territories he can rayfe 28000
• men,
Here is an Academy pr\ Wits cal-
led the Innominate as they that
cademyof^i rather be wife, then be talked
Wits. of, or famed for fuch.
This Town hath furnifhed Italy
with two excellent Painters, Corn-
gio^ and P armigianol
Its Hifto- He that would know the particular
rj. Hiftory of Parwa t let him read Bo-
navtntnra. Arrighi.
Regt*. from Parma we went to Regie, a
Town belonging to the Duke of
Modena : Here is a neat Cathedral*
Church, of which Church S. Prober
was Bifhop. Of this 1 own were
thefe three learned men, Guido Pan-
cirtla, Cardinal 7e/&* and fnarlinj
Cafielvetro.
Modena. Modena is the Town where the
Duke keeps his Court. Its a hand-
fome Town, and by its high Steeple
fhews it felf to Travellers long be-
fore they come to it. It hath alfo
a ftrong Cittadel, which lying flat
and even with the Town , (heweth
the Town , that indeed it can be
even
Of I
T A L Y.
139
even with it, whenfocvcr it (hall re-
bell.
The Palace of the Duke hath fome
rooms in it as neat, and rich, as any
Ifaw in ifaly^ witnefsthofe Chambers
hung round with the PiSure of
thofe of his Family, and wainfcbted
with great Leokjng-glajfes and rich
gilding.
This Duke is of the Family ofEfte, xheFa»
but; not of the true Line : Wherefore m Uy f
for want of lawful Heirs male, Fe r- £fl St
rara and Commachio fell to the
Church in Clement the VIII. time,
and remain there ever Once.
Of the true Houfe of Efte, was Q ounte f s
the brave. Cmnttfs Matilda , the j^ a tilda»
dry-Nnrfe , as I may fay, of the
Roman Church. For it was file de-
fended Gregory ths VII. againlttha
Emperour Henry the VI,, and brought
him to acknowledge his fault , and
cry the Pope mercy. It was (he
alfo that by will and Teslament
left the Pope, Parma, Rcgio^ Man-
tna y and Ferrara. Hence Vrbatt
tbe VI II , out of gratitude to this
Princefs caufed her Statue and
Tomb to be fet up in S. Peters Church
in
14° The Voyage
in Rome. The Will and Teftament
of this Princcfs are kept in Lucca to
this day.
The lafl Hard by Modena was fought the
true Con-. famous Battle , where Hirtius and
fuls. Panfa being Confuls , the Senate loft
in them its Authority.
Its Lear- Of Modena were thefc famous
ft Men. Men in Learning , Cardinal Sad&-
letus^ Carolus Sigontut , and Gabriel
Falopius.
In Modena are made the beft
Vifards for Mafcarades ^ and its no
fmal] profit which they draw from
this foolifh Commodity 3 feeing Stul~
tor um plena funt omnia
The Revenues of this Bulte are
Three hundred thoufand Crowns a
year • and he is now of the French
Fa^ion. He can raife 3 0000 men.
From thence paffing the River we
came foon to Fort Urban , a Cit-
tadel mod regularly built by the
Command of Pope Vrban the PHI.
from whom its called. Its fo flrong,
that it is not afraid to ftand , night
and day alone in the fields , and
upon the Frontiers of the Popes
Eftate. Paffing from hence th-iough
Cafitk
The *
Dukes
Reve-
nues.
HUJtt-
tereft.
Fits For
ret.
Tort
Vrban.
Of Italy. 141
Caftel Franco , anciently called F<r Cafiel
rum Gallorttm , we arrived betimes franco.
at Bologna.
Bologna is one of the greateft Bologna,
Towns of Italy , and one of the
handibmtft. Its the fecond of the
Poper Dominions ; and the Chief
Univerfity of Italy for La* Hence
the Jurifts fay it is Mufarum
domu4 t at que omnit nutricuia Juris , -
and the very common Coyn of the
Countrey tells you that Bononia (fa-
cet.
Its named s by the Common Pro-
verb , Bologna lagrafa ; becaufe of
the fcrtilfoyl in which it (lands 5 to
wit , in the very end of Lombard] ;
and the many fprings which hume6fc
it from the Apnnin hills 3 at whofe
feet if Hands.
This Countrey was anciently cal-
led Feljtna , Gallia Cifalpina , Gallia
7 ' ogata , to diftinguifh it from Gal"
lia Br ace at a , the Countrey in Yranee
near Narbonne , and from Gal"
lia Comata , the Countrey in France
called La Guitnne. In Middling Ages
it was called Romagmla , becaufe
Bologna , Ravtnna , Cedent , Forli,
G iv Fafnza 9
T teniae and /wo/^ftood conftant to
the City of Rome againft the Lorn-
lards for along time.
Thl As for the Town of Bologna now,
Town it its excellently well built, and for
filf* the moft part upon arches , like the
Covtnt Garden in London • only the
pilars are round. Thefe arches bring
great conveniency to the Inhabi-
tants, who can walk all the Town
over cool and dry, even in fuly and
January, Its five mile in compafs,
and an excellent Sommer Town,
were it not that the ayre is not alto*
. gether fo pare , and the wines heat-
Jtt Go~ ing. Its governed by a Legat 4
wrnment Latere , fent hither by the Pope,
and in change, ic fends an ■ Embaf-
fadour to Rome to refide there : id
that Bologna is treated by Rome,
ItsPri- rather like a Sifter, than a Sub-
tsttedges, jett; and defervedly^ feeing Bologna
fell not to the Church any other
way but by her free giving her felf
to the Pope •, referving only to her
felf fome particular Priviledges , as
power to fend Embaffadors to
Rome ; and that if any Townf-
mm kilt anoche*, andean but e-
fcape
Of I t a £ y. i-43
rape away, his goods cannot be con-
fifcared.
• I ftaid fix d ayes here, in wjiich
time I faw thefe things.
I. The Dominicans Church and The Do-
Convent. In the Church , I faw the minkans
Tomb of \S. Dominic^ Founder ot that Church,
Order., Its all of Wto Marble cut
with curious Figures relating to his
Life. In this Chnrch is kept a Fa-
mous Manufcript T to wit, the 2We
it felf written in Parchment by £/-
^J himfeif, faith Leandro Alberto
the Cambden of /m/jt , and a .Fr/-
<«r of this Convent. They (hew
you alfo here a Curious X^wp
fent to St. Dominickj Tomb by the
new converted Indians. Its of a mod
rare workmanfhip. ; Behind the high
Altar (lands the £uire fo famous
for the Setts, which, are of a rare
Mofaict^ Work of Coloured -#W i
inlatd into Pictures reprefenting
the O/^and Nw Tejlaments , and all
wrought by one Lay Brother called
jFra, Damiano di Bergamo. This kind
of Mo§aickJVorh in Wood was an-
ciently (faith Vafari) called Tar-
fi* , and in this kind ot Work
G v Brw
144 Tui Voyaci
Brunellefchi and Maiano did good 1
things in Florence. Bat 7^* ^™-
«£ improved it much afterwards,
by boiling Wood into feveral co-
lours s and then inlaying it into what
Peftures and Figures he pleafed.
This Quire is (hewn to Strangers
a* a rare thing r and worthily ' fince
the Emperour Charles the V. had
ihe curiofity to fee it r , and with the
point of his Dagger to try whether
It were inlaid , or oncly painted ;
and the piece which he picked 1 out
with his Daggtt • , was never put in
again for a Memorandum. In this
Church t ar alfo in the Chapterhoufe
9 and Cloifier of this Convent^ lie bu-
ried many Readers of the Zaw ,
who having lived here bytheZ<«n> y
died here alio by the Law ef Na-
ture.
The Do- 2. The Convent here is one of
minicans the fair eft in Europe, in which 150
Convent. Friars constantly live and ftudy.
The Tittle chappel ", which was
once S. Deminicks Chamber -, the
vaft Dormitory- •, the. fair Library^
the. great Refetlory , and the curi-
ous Cellar are fhejvn courteoufly
to
Of Italy. I45
E* Grangers.
5. The Nunnery of Corfu* Chrifti.
Its of S. Core's Order, and famous
for the body of Beata Catherina di The Body
Bologna a moft holy Nun of this Or- of Beata
der and Convent. I faw her Body fit- Catheri*
ting ftraight up in a Chair, in her Re- »* <
ligious Habit: She holds her Rules
in her right hand ; and we fee her
face and/rc* plainly , but thofe black
and dried up.
4. From hence I went on to the The Ctr*
Town Gate, a little out of which fa
Gate lies a fair Street where they
make the Corfo of Coaches in Sum-
mer Evenings.
5. Turning from hence on the
left hand , I went to S. Michael in S. Ml"
Bofco a Stately Monaftery of Olive chad n
tan Fathers , ftanding upon a high Bofco.\
Hill From this Hill I had a per-
fect view of Bologna under me,
and of all the Councrey about it ;
which being level and ftrowed w'th
a world of white Houfes and Villas y
looked like a Sea loaden with Ships
under fail. Entring into this M -
naftery , I faw the Oval Court pant-
ed by feveral Prime Matters', of
G'vT which
t^6 Thi Voyage
which G»i&Q Rheni ol Bologna was
one. Then ^mounting up to the
Dormitory , I found it to be one of the
faireft I had ever feen.
Other 6. The Monastery , or Convent of
finitely the Frwcifcans , with the rare row
Mwh$* of PiUart , and JVfcVo towards the
ptt. " ' Street, the excellent Cloifters, and the
curious Cellar,
7. The Monaflery of St. S4/-
v4Wy# with its two vaft Courts or dou-
ble C/o^r built upo^Galleries above,
its a Noble Building.
g. The Mmaftery of the Servits r
lhatof the Auguflins , and that of
the Carmelites ?, are all of themfucfr
Stately Buildings , that I may boldly
fay ,, that no Town in Europe is
comparable to Bologna for fair Mo~
nafleries.
S.Petro- 9. Then I vifited San Tetronk,
nio's {tending in the end of the great Pi-
Church tzza ,. of which Church Leandro
Alberto, writ a hundred years ago r
th&r he thought it would not be
en(fcdbut with the Worldsend. And
lam half of his opinion : for when
I pafled that waylaft, I found the
Siaffolds yet {tending, which I had
V-»
Of Italy. "147
found there one and twenty years
before ; and yet in all my five Voy-
ages into Italy , I found them al-
wayes kocking and making as muck
noife and duft , as if this Church
ftiould be finiftied within half a year, i
when as yet half of it is onely finiih-
ed. In this Church Charles the V.
was crowned Eniperom by Clement
the VII.
10. The Bomo , which is not yet The D+
hal f finifhed neither : yet that which mQi
is finifhed , promifeth fair for the
reft.
11. The New Church of S. Paul Other
hath a curious High Altar. In the Churches*
Church of S. Giovanni in Aforte is
the rare Picture of 5. Cecily of the .
hand of Raphael Vrbin. The fefuits
Churchy the Church of S.Stephen,
and that of the Pafficn deferve to be
fecn.
32. After the Churches and Mcria- jfo £ f :
&erie? , we went on with vifitingthe aa ts Pa*
reft of the Town and faw the % fCm
Wallace of the Popes Legate : in this
Palb.de I faw tjhe rare Cabinet and
Stndy of Aldrovandus • , to whom
Pliny the Second if he were now
alive»
'jildro-
vandus
ksntt*
I48 ThI V O T A C I
alive, would but be Plinj tbt Sixth •
for he bach printed fix great Vo-
lumes of the natures of all things in
his Study nature- each Volume being as big
- ndCa- at-all P links Works. They (hewed
me here two or three hundred
Manufcripts , all of this mans own
hand-writing , and all of them
Notts out of the Seft Author* ; out
of which Notts he compiled his
fix great Volumes which are now
in print. Seeing thefe Manufcripts^
Tasked whether the man had lived
three hundred years , or no , as its
fiid foannes dt Ttmporibtss in
Charles the Grtats time did; but it
was anfwered me 5 that he lived
onely fourfcore and three : afliorc
age for fuch a long. Work : but it
fheiveth us how far a man may
travel in Sciences in his life time^
if he rife but betimes , and fpur
on all his life time with obftinate
labour. Certainly hud- he wrote
before Salomons time , Salomon
would have changed his fiying, and
infteid of fending, the flothful
mm to karn of the P'tfmire how
to labour , h t would have fenr him
to
ALY. 14?
his Study and
Fade ad Aldrovandum
Of li
CO Aldrovandm
Example :
piger.
1 sJThe Great Sckoots here where T^
the Do&ors of the Univerfity read, School/,.
are (lately both within, and with-
out.
14. The Spanifi CoUedge founded The Spa*
hereby noble Cardinal Alfarnozzo,. nijh C*t~
deferves to be taken notice of. ledge*
Its well built, with a handfome
Church , and five Priefts to ferve
it. The intention of hisColfedge
is to furniftiall the King of Spaines
Dominions in Italy with able Magi-
strates and Officers of Juftice None
can live in it but Natural Spani-
ards ( except the Chaplains) and'
thofe Spaniards muft be Do&ors of
the Law before they can be ad-
mitted here: they onely learn the
language and Cuftoms of the coun*
tryes, and perfect themfelves in the
ftudy of the Law, that they may
be fit to fill up the firft vacant
places of Judicature that fall either
in the Stare of Milan , in the King-
dome of Naples, or in Sicily- They
have a revenue of twelve thou/and
irtmn
>J *
The Mo
ToTvrsl
150 The Voyage
eroyvns a yeas. They keep two
Coaches , live very nobly , and lodge
all Sfanijh Embaffadours t Cardi-
nals , and Pre/at* of their Nation
that paffe this way. In the Qdledge
you fee the Pi&ures of many great
Statefmen and Cardinals , and others s .
who have been of this Cel/edge :
but no Pi&ure pleafed me like that
of their brave Founder , Noble Car-
dinal Alfornozzo, which is in the
Church , and reprefenting him Ln the
fame pofture he was in , when he re-
covered all the Pb^x State in July,
unto the Pepe then at Avignon • of
which I have fpoken fufficiently above
in defcribing Avignon.
15. The two Tdtyers here in
the midft of the Town , the one
very high and ftraight, called , De
gli Afinelli ; the other lore and
bending , called, La Carifenda. They
would make us beleeve that this
bending Tower was made crooked
a purpofe -, and its ftrange to fee
how moftmen make it their buiinefs
rather to fee this low crooked Tower r
than the other , which is both
Higher, and ftraighter. But there's
BQft
Of Italy. *5*
no Mattery to make things ill , and
to miffcjof ourairaes ; and I rather
thinke the Caritfenda or low Tower 9
went not tip higher , becaufe the
Architect perceived it went up a-
wry. But we Grangers admire every
thing in ftrange Countreys, and that
makes that none admire us ; Upon
which occafion I would wifli my
young Traveller never to admire
any thing in outward fhew : but to
look curiouQy at every thing with-
trying out , O che RelaCofa ! This
will get him and his Nation farr
more honour 9 for 'Admiration is but
the Daughter of Ignorance ; and
Magnanimm , (faith Ariftotle) nihil
admiratur.
Then the Houfis here ; which Ths
are generally Well built , and in fjottfes m
Summer time , letting open their Bologna.
Dores and Gates towards the Street,
you may look quite through their
Courts, Entries, Porches, Houfes, and
a huge way into their Gardens, which
even- from thence , will falute your
eye with dainty Perfpectives , Foun-
tains, and frefh Verdure-, and your
Nofe too with curious Smells of
Jefrain,
The No-
bility.
Jefmin.and Orenge flowers, as they
did mine often, Now the belt Pal-
laces here are thofe of AUtvcXAt,
Campeggi, Vepoli^ Fachinetti, Cefpi,
and others.
1 7. Thefe fine Houfes are full al-
fo of Nobility , and I remember to
have feen here at a Corfo di Vaglh
upon Midfommer day the long great
ftreet lined quite through with coa-
ches on both fides,and thofe coaches
double lined with Ladies and Cava-
liers of Garbo. Indeed it would be
pity , that fuch a ftately town as
Hologna, (houldlike Lejden in Hol-
land , be full onely of Hanfes and
Ssren.
18. Their 7r4^here conftftetb
Traffck. muchinfilks, velvets, olives,Ieather
bottles, gelliei,wafli balls, and little
doggsfor Ladyes, which here are Co
little,thatthe Ladyes carrying thctn
in their muffs, have place enough for
their hands too.
1 9. Their Markets here are aho
M*rh§ts. exquifitly good for all provifions of
mouth, witnefs their Salficci onely
which are a regak for a Prince.
20. But
Th
The
Of Italy. 153
2<x But that you may not think The A-
them better fed , than taught ; they cadenty
have erefted here an Academy of of wit s
wits \ called Gli Otiofi , or , Idle-
mtn j by a Figure of Rhetoric!^ called
a Zie , or , per antiphrafin , be-
caufe they are sot idle. Its this
Academy (I believe) which hath
helpt to fet out three rare Modern
Writers of this Town , Cardinal The
Bentivoglio , the Marquis of Mai- Learned
ve^zi % and John Bapttfia Manzini^ Men,
the firlt, the Titus Livius of his age,
the fecond , the Lucius Florus of his
age ; and the third , the Marcus
Tulliiu of his time. To whom I may
add Leandro Alberti , the Camdm
of Italy.
21. He that defires to know the TheJ$'
particular Hiftory of Bologna Jet him a or; ^
read Bartholomeo Galeotti , and Gio'
va»niGarz,o, where he fliallfind how
Bologna fuffered much anciently by
the two oppofite Factions of the
LambartauzX and the Geremei. But
now they enjoy quiet and repofe un*
dcr the Pope.
Having thus feen Bologna , and
being armed with a Bolettina dd
Sanita %
ler.
TheA-
fenniitc
Bills.
154 The V o Y AG e
'&tmt*ft Sanita , taken here , to make us be
berthis let paffe into the State of Fh-
Bolettina rence . we fleered on horfe-back
Travel- towards Florence , and reacht it in
two dayes, The tirft dayes. journey
by Pianora , Loiano , S-cargo, & A-
zino , Pietra Mala , and over the
Apenmns , was long and tedious
enough , till the Night came t at
which time we were much recrea-
ted with the fight of a Fire which
appeared fome two miles off in the
fide of a Mountain on our left hand.
This Fire appears here frequently ,
efpecially in cloudy weather : andic
appeared to me for an hour toge-
ther as I r6de along, to be ftill of
|he fame bignefs y and of the fame
gtowy colour (fornaceTike) and or
a perfect round form , and not py-
ramidal, as other flames are. The
Countrey People here call this Fire y
La Bona d' Inferno , Hells Month ;
and I know not why they may not
as well call chis Fire fo , wTertul-
lian calls Vefuvim and JEttta (two-
l.dc Pee- Burning Mountains) FummoU In-
nitent. c. f er ni % Bells Chimneys. Taken in
I2 » fine , with this fixed Meteor , we
forgo?
Tertul.
Of Italy, 155
forgot the redioufnefs of the way Fioren«
and came to Fioren^uola. The next.^^
Morning] pa fling by Scarper ia and
// tome- we arrived betimes at Flo-
rence.
1 confefs, I ftirred hot out of my Mi arr ;~
Inne that Night, becaufr fair Florence V al at
(as the PrOverb calls her) is not to Florence*
oe feen tin foul Linnen and Riding
Boots : but getting up betimes the
next Morning , I gave my eyes fuch
a Breafcfaft as Princes eyes would be
glad to feed upon.
But before I come to the particulars
of what I faw in Florence , I will con-
fider it in great 3 and then come to the
Retail of it.
EHvers good Authors are of opi- Florence.
nion that this Town was flrft built by
Sola's Soldiers , to whom he had
given this Soyle for their Services
done him in his Civil Wars. They
built it near the Current of two
Rivers ( Arm and Mtmio) and from
thence it was called at hrft Flucn-
tia (as Coblentxj in Germany •, from
the meeting of Rivers , is called
Conflaertia.) Afterwards by the In-
habitants it was called Florentia ,
by
X^6 The Voyacb
by reafon of the fruitful foy! which
made it fiourifli with all delicacies ;
as alfo for the flouriftiing wits of the
Inhabitants , who were fo famous
antiently in point of wit , that the
very Romans ufed to fend their Chil-
dren firft into Toftany , to be bred in
Learning and Religion , and then in-
to Greece > to learn Greek, and Philo-
fophy.
Having enquired the Name of
this Town % I began to defire its bet-
ter acquaintance , and attained it ea-
fily in a Monethsfpace which Ifpent
here : The things I obferved moft
were thefe :
~*the 1. The Chappel of S. Laurexcs,
r Chappel which is the neateft thing that ever
of St. eye beheld All the infide of it is to
Laurence] be over-crufted with fa/per Srones,
of feyeral Colours and Countreys ,
with other rich Stones , ail above
Marble , and all fo neady polifbed
and (hining, that the Art here ex-
ceeds the Materia. This Chappel
is round , and round about are to
be fixed within the walls , as high
as a man can reach , the Tombs of
all the Great Dftkfs of Florence , in
Of Italy. 157
a moll gallant manner , and of
moft exquifite poliflied Stones , with
a great Cujbim of fome richer Stone ,
and a Ducal CroVott of Pretious
Stones repofing upon that Cujhion.
Over thefe Tombs the Statues of
all the Great Dukes , at full length,
and in their Ducal Habits , all of
Brafs gilt , are to be placed in
Niches round about the Chappel.
The Roof is to be Vaulted all over
With an over^crufting of Lapis La*
Kuli (a blew pretious Stone with
Veins of Gold in it) which will make
it look like Heaven it felf. Between
each Tomb are inlaid in the Walls ,
the Arms , or Scutchions of the fe-
veral Towns of the Great Dukes
Dominions , all blazoned according
to their feveral Colours in Heraul-
dry, byfeveral pretious Stones which
compofe them : and thefe are not
made in little , but are fair great
Scutchions made purpofely of a large
fize for to fill up the void places
between the Tombs. The Towns
are thefe ; Florence ,- Siena, Pifa,
Livorno^ Valtzrra^ An^no , Piftoia ,
Certona , Monte Puhiano
&c.
which
158 The V.OYACI
which contributed ( I fuppofe )
fomething each of them to this Coftly
Fabrick. In fine , this Chappel is fo
rich within with its own fliining
bare walls , that it fcorns all Hang-
ings , Painting , Gilding , Mofaick
Work , and fuch like helpers off of
bare Walls , becaufe it can find no-
thing richer and handforner than its
own pretious Walls. Its now above
threefcore years fince it was be-
gun ^ and there are ordinarily
threefcore men at work daily here,
and yet there's onely the Tomb of
Ferdinand the Second perfectly 6-
niflted. The very Cufbion which
Iieth upon his Tomb s coft Three-
fcore thoufand Crowns , by which
you may guefs at the reft. Indeed
thefc (lately Tombs make alraoft
death it telf look lovely , and dead
mens afhes grow proud again. As
for the Altar and Tabernaeleof this
Chappel , I wiH fpeak of them by
and by , when I will defcribe the
Gallery of the Great Duke , where
they are kept till the Chappel be
finiftied.
2. The Church of S. Lanrence y
J?
. of Italy. 159
which belongs to this Chappel ^ or The
rather to which this Chappel be- Church
longs ; is a very handfom Church de- of S. Lo-
figned by Brunellifchi himfelf. I he retiKo*
things that grace this Church arc
the neat double-row of round pil-
lars which hold up the roof of this
Fabrick. The Pidnre over the
Quire painted in the Roof, repre-
fenting the general Judgment. Its
a bold Piece , and of Pontorno :
The two Brazen Pulpits wrought
1 into Hiftories by rare Donatello •
"he curious defigned Picture of S.
Anne and our Blejjed Lady , in
chiaro e ofcuro , by Fra. Bartolo-
meo % commonly called Del Frate, is
fo weii a defigned Piece, that a Duke
of Mantua having ken it, offered
to buy it at any rate, but was refu-
ted. The new Sacrifly ( made to
ferve the fine Chappel defcribed
above) deftrves to be carefully vi-
fitid, becaufe of the bodies of the
Princes of the Family of Medices,
I which are depofitated here , till
the Chappel mentioned above be
finifhed. In this new Sacrifly alfo
are feen the four Statues made by
H Michad
ISO T HE VoY AG E
Michael Angela , representing the
Day, the Night, Aurora , ? nd the
Evening ; the four parts which,
compofe Time 5 by which all Men
are brought to their Graves : That
which reprefents Night is a rarq
ftatue , and hugely cryed up by alii
Sculptors and Virtmfi. See alio \n\
the Wall of the old Sacrifiy the;
neat Tombe of John and Peter Me-]
dices fons of Cofmns , firnamcd
Pater Patria ; Its- the work of
Andrea Varochio. In the rnidft of j
this Church, before the High- Altar A
lies buried Cofmns Pater Patriae A
the raifer of the Medicean Family.
Jn the Ckifier joyning to this
Churches erected the Statue of Pau-
las fovitu the Hiftorian ; and near to
this Statue you mount up a pair of j
The Li- Stairs to the rare Library of Manual
bran* fcripts called Bibliotheca LaurentiaA
na, the Catalogue of whofe Books is j
printed at Awflerdam An. 1622, in
O&avo.
The mat 3- The Gallery of the old Fallace.
Duk[s T^is;s that Gallery to famous, and fo
Gallery. frequently vifited by a/1 Strangers.
At your entrance into this Gallery 3 \
you j
Of I
TALY,
161
you fee a Vaft long Room made
like an L : on the left hand of this
Gallery , there runs a perpetual
glafs window • on the other fide
are fet a row of Pi&uresin great,of
thofe of the Medic ean Family :
under the windows, and alfo un-
der the faid Pidures ftand a row of
curious Marble Statues , ancienc
ones all, and of prime hands. Over
the faid windows and Pictures runs
a clofe row of left Pi&ures, repre-
fenting to the life the molt famous
men of later times for learning
and Armes ; the Sonldiers being
on the right hand , and the Schol-
lefs on the left. The Statues afore-
faid are well nigh a hundred in all ,
but all rare ones : Some whereof I
yet remember, and they are thefe :
That of Leda , of Diana, of Bac-
chus, of Hercules of the Gladiator
Handing on his guard, of Scipti
Africanus in Brafs, (hewing the
ancient habit and drefs of the old
Romans , farr different from our
modes t that of a little young youth '
in brafs , with his Sword in his hand :
that of a little ky fl.ee fing upon a
H i ] touchflone :
i6z The Voy ag e
touchfione : The head of Cicero in
marble.- that of Seneca: the Head
of Michael Angeh Bonarota in
Brafs, of his own hand making : in
fine, the head of Brutus one of Ca-
fars murderers ; It was begun in Mar-
ble by Michael Angelo^wi informed-
ly •, and fo left by him : If you will
know the reafon why he finished ic
not, read the diftich written in Brafs
under this head by the faid fculptor
himfelf, thus :
M. Dum Bruti efjigiem Sculptor A.
de marmore ducit,
B. In mentem feeler is Venit , C^* F.
abttinuit.
P'Mures The four corner letters fignifying
of famous tnaC 'Michael Angeltu Bonarota
Soldiers. f ec ic f Among the Pictures, I took
particular notice of thefe Souldiers,
of Hannibal that frighted Rome :
of Scipio that took Carthage and
vanquifhed Hannibal: of Pjrrhm
that made the Romans glad to make
peace with him : of Scanderhg chat
made the QJreat Turk^ afraid to
fight with him ; of V*nerim that
helpt to win the battel of Lepnta :
of Alexander Farmfe that never loft
battel :
of Italy. 163
battel-,of Carte fins that found out new
Countryes: Of Magellanus that found
out new Seas : of Andrea T^Qria
who beat the French by Sea: of
Gabion de Foix who had beat the
Spaniards by Land if he had but
known how to ufe his Vi&ory : of
the Dtik^ of Aha, who onely la- *
men ted denying that he had never
fought a pitch'd Battel with the
Irttrkjrof Anne de Montmorency ;who
dying, was glad to die in a pitch'd
Battel againft the Hugonots ; of Ecce-
lino the Paduan Tyrant, of whom no
man can Speak any good • of Caftru-
cio of whom no man can fpeak any
ill ; with a world of other brave He-
roes, with whofe true lookes I was
very glad to be acquainted. Among p ,„
the Pictures of the learned Men I VT^
took particular .notice of thefe °K !^ rn "
Italians, to wit, Petrarch , Aricfte , e ' en *
Joannes Cafa, Poggio, Macchiavel ,
Gmcciardin, Panto fcvio, Sanna-
zario , Bccaccio , Platina , Brunei-
lefchi , Michael Angelo , Raphael
ZJrbin, Columbia \ Americm , and
Galileo, With many others too long
to relate , and too many to be re-
H iij membred.
1^4 The Voyage
mcmbred. Having thus gazed our
fill at thefe ft at ues and pictures, and
by particular taking notice of them ,
complimented the great worthies
they reprefent , we were let into
the great Cabinets , or Chambers
which, joyn upon this Gallery.
The Ar- M* , we ^ aw tne Armory \
morj. that is, three or four great cham-
bers full of exotick curiofities : as ,
the habits of two Indian Kings
made of Parrats Feathers fowed to-
gether : the Habits of fome fanijfa-
ties in Turkey , of red Velvet fee
thick with little nailes ot gold, which
they can take out and drefs up
Other futes with : the habit of the
King of China : the skin of a horfe
parted upon a woodden horfe , the
mane of which horfe is kept there
in a box ail at length, and it is
above five ells long; This horfe
had been fent to the Great Duke
by the Duke of Lorrain. Then we
were fhown Hamiibals Helmet : the
Helmet of Charles the V - y the
fVcord of Henry the IV of Trance ;
a curious Helmet thin and light,
and yet of Musket proof - } a huge
heavy
Of Italy. 1 6$
heavy Helmet and Sword of one of
the old Paladins of France • the true
frvord of Scattderbeg , a world of
Cimetars , (cabards , m£t, (addles ,
and other Turklfh furniture fee
thick with Tursfuoifes in gold ; a
great G*«\ whofe thick barrel 15
of pure Gold , and yet as long zs
an ordinary fowling piece, and as
heavy as a ftrong man can well
level with: irs valued at 15 o pi-
flols , and (hoots twice as fan? as
anoiher Gun of Iron doth , buc
kills ( I believe ) with the Time
pain that others do , though with
a little more honour. Here is a
great piftol of gold. Then the bm»a
nette, or fet of piftds t (five piftol
barrels fet together in an iron Frame)
CO put into your hat, and to be all
fhot offa t once from thence , as you
feem to fdute your enemy and bid
him Good night. The piftol with
eighteen barrels in it, all to be (hot
oft at once, and fcattering defperatly
about a Roome , fix little cannons
fcz in llarr-wife. The little Brafs
Cannon which may be taken in
pieces prefently, and fet together
H n\j as
1 66 The Voy age
as foon, and fo be carried eafify
into any Steeple , or Tower .- fuch
Cannons as thefe might eafily be
carryed in deep Countryes, and over
liigh Moantains, every Souldier car-
rying a Piece. The Statue in Brafs
of the King of Spain, Philip the
Fourth on Horfeback, juft of the
brightnefsof that of Gold which the
Great Duke fent to the fa id King
of Spain for a Prefent ; It was
made by rare John di Bologna.
Then I fiw the Armour for Horfe
and man of two Kings of Ferjia.
The armour of the Great Duke
Ferdinand, a goodly man. T he King
of Swedes Cornet taken in Germany
in a Battel. The buckler with the
Medufas head on it, painted by
Michael Angib. A Tnt\t\fb Bell
to ring in time of Battel. A home
afed in Turkey to call men to their
Moskjes in ftead of Bells 3 as we
have. The head of a Halbard
ringing like a Bell. A Halbard to
fould up in three , and to carry
under your Cloak privately. A
ftaffof a white Cane, .in which are
curioufly engraven in black, the
Hi/lories
of Italy. i6j
hiftories of the Apocalipfe. It was
the Dttks °f Vrbins. In fine, the
Loadftone holding up threefcore
pound weight of Iron, and holding
one key to another, for a matter of
five or fix keyes.
After the Armory, we were let in-
to the five Cabinets full of precious
Jewels, Pictures, and other rare cu-
riofities. In the failCabinet I was
fliown a curious Candleftick^ to The i.
hang up in the middle of a Room , Cabinet.
with feveral branches fpreading
from it t and all of yellow Amber y
including within it a world of lirde
figures of white Marble or Waxe >
neatly cut ia little , • and appearing
through the tranfparent yellow am-
ber ; This Candleflick^ was gfven by
the Dfickfs of Lwebourg , to the
Duke of Saxony , and by him to
Prince Mathias brother to this
Great Dftke of Florence. In the
fime Cabinet I faw a Table of po-
lifhed ftones of feveral colours and
!uftre,inlay'd into JHrds and Flowers.
The head of Tiberius Cafar in one
Tftrkj Jione, as big as a Ducks egg y
and of an ineilimable value. A cu-
H v rious
i68 The Voyage
rious Cabinet, or two, of Ivory cup
brought out of Germany by Prince
Matthias. In the fame Cabinet I
faw the pidnre of Cardinal Betnbo in
a neat Afofaickytork ; and an other
piece of divers Birds in Mofaick alfo t
rarely done by Marcellus Provincia-
te,. I faw alio there divers little old
Pagan Idols in Iron and Brafs, a de-
(ign of Raphaels own hand ; and fome
good Pictures.
In the fecond Cabinet I faw two
great Globes ■, which were made in this
roome, being too great ever to be
carryed out, or brought into it by th^
The 2. door. I faw alfo here a curious
Cabinet. Table of polifhed ftones reprc
fenting a Town in Bohemia , with
divers piftures of Men, Horfes, and
Lindskips; where there is a Tree
reprefented molt naturally, becaufe
it is reprefented by the very wood
of a tree Petrifyed into ftone , and
looking like wood as it was •, and
fhining like po'ifh'd ftone \ as it
now is. 1 he flatties, or bnfto's of
three or four of the Great Da^es, in
Porphyry. A curious looking glafs
over the infideof the door, which
placed
Of I
T A L Y.
l6p
placed directly over the picture of a
man., contracts into it the pi&ure of a
woman (that mans wife; which you
fee plainly in it : drawing thus Eve
oue of Adamzgun by a curious re-
flexion.
In the third Cabinet I was fiiowaa
curious table of polifh'd flones repre-
fenting perfectly the Town and Ha-
ven of Ligome. A great Cabinet
of Ebony befet with precious flones The 3?
on the oucfide, and with the Hifto*- Cabintt,
ry of the holy Scriptures curioufly
expreffed in miniature in feVeral
little fquares of rich (tones fet here
and there. In the top of it there is
a German Clocks, now out of or-
der, and no man dare mend ir.
Within this great Cabinet I faw the
pajfion of our Saviour curioufly cut
by Michael Angelo in Ivory ( fty
they ) but I believe its in wfiice
Waxe. There is alfo in it the figures
of our Saviour and his twelve Af-
files in yellow amber, wkh then;
heads in white amber : All thefe fe-
veral Pieces are not Ccen at once'
but
into fight one after
come up x
another, as the man turns them.
This
The tyh.
Cabinet.
170 The Voyage
This Ebony Cabinet was fcnt to the
Great Duke by the Duke of Bavaria ,
and its valued at fourfcore thoufand
Crownes : I believe, if it were to be
fold, it would not yield forty thou-
fand Crownes; but its handibme
faith Seneca^ for thofe that receive
courtefies , to value them iiigh.
Here arealfo fome Pi&ures of great
value, as the Adam and£w of the
hand of Albert L o Dureo, an Original
Piece, valued at 1500 Crowns. An-
original Venus of Titian, that in the
Toggio Jmperialehert (of which be-
low) looking but like a good coppy
of this. Here are alfo feveral Per-
fan Chairs, and other good Origi-
nals of "prime hands.
In the 4th Cabinet,called // Trihmo %
we faw more riches then in ali the
•others. This Tribuno is a great Room
built round with a Cupola ^ whofe
vault is painted with a deep fanguirf
red. fet full with the (hells of Mother
of Pearl. The wall's of this Room
a"ehung with green (ilk, and loaden
with excellent Pictures of t' e
prime Maftersofthe World,77/M»,
Raphael, Andrea del o4rtd, Vinci ,
Hans
of It
A L Y,
Hans Holbain , Vandike and others.
The S. John Baptifi is of Raphaels
hand ; as is alfo that of Leo the X.
with two Cardinals, Julio Medici^nd
Cfirdinal Rojfi behind him. The
Picture of Southml Privy Coun-
fellor to Henry the Fill, is of the
hand of rare Hans Holbain, The
Picture of our Lady with our Savi-
eur in her armes, is of the hand of
Andreo del Sarte. The Picture of
Cardinal Bentivoglio fitting in a
Chair, is of the hand of Vandike-
There is alfo a rare Picture in mi-
niature of Giidio Gloria's hand, and
three fair pieces in miniature of an
jingu$in Friar yet living, and a
man of great efteem 5 having taken
the right courfe to be famous, that
is, to make but few Pieces , but
thefe fini(hed with all the pitience
which miniature requires. In this
tribuno I faw alfo the famous Nayle
half geld, half lnn % made by the
famous Alchimifi Thurnheufer.
They (hewed me alfo a great lump
of Gold, not yet (lamped into ( t yn^
two (hells of Mother cf I earl with
their, two Pearls (till (licking to
thern
17* The Voyage
them, and juftasthey grow: The
Pearls are rich Pearls and round.
The two pieces of Emweraud-rock.,
the one fcarce formed yet into- per-
fect Emmeraud, but onely begun .•
the other quite finifhed and green.
Then two clofe cupbords within the
walls of this Room , in which I
faw a world of curious £ups and
Vafes of Crjftal , Agate , Lapis
Lazuli, and other fuch curious,
but b:ittle matter, yet of nre fa-
brick a^nd fhape ; They value chem
at two hundred thoufand Crowns.
The Voicorns hsrfte 9 and the Ala-
bafler Pillar are not to be forgotten,
The great Cabinet of Ebeny (land-
ing at the further end of this Tritbuno,
full of ancient Meddals of Gold
Silver and Brafs of the ancient
Confuls and Emperors , all digefled
into their feveral feries ; and yet
this Cabinet is almoft as rich with-
ou6, as it contains riches witlnn •
being Ctt without with precious
f tones of a vaft bignefs and value;
to wit, a Saphir as broad as a twenty
Shillings piece, and half an inche
thick j a Ruby full as great, but farr
richer
Of Italy. *7J
richer • an cmmeraud not inferiour
to the reft •, a pearl as big as an ordi-
nary willnuc • a world of Dia-
monds and, other letter ftones , but
all of (o great value, that this Ca-
binet , with that which is in it , is
valued to be worth five hundred
thoufmd Crowns. Laitly, I faw
here the great round Table made of
inlaid precious ftones polifhed neat-
ly ; a table able to make the moft
hungry ftomack forget its gmmb-
ino to feed its eyes upon the tm-
roafoed birds which together with
curious flowers compofe. this admi-
rable table ; Pearles y Rubies* Sa-
phirs. Cornelians, Emwerauds-, La-
Vis Lazuli, dec are employed here
artificially to the making of thefe
birds and flowers. You'i conceive bet-
ter of this Table, when / (hall tell
you, that its worth a hundred thou-
fmd Crowns, and that it was fif-
teen years in making, and yet
thirty men wrought at it dayly. In
the midft of it is the great Bait of the
Armes of the Duh or Florence in
pretious ftones.
The 5. Cabinet {landing at the The $.
fur- Cabinet.
174 The Voyage
further end of this Gallery, contain-
er h the Altar and Tabernacle ,
which are to be fee up in the new
Chanel ef S. Laurence defcribed
above. Having viewed them fix
feveral times exactly (as I did )
you will perchance be of my opini-
on , that this Tabernacle made for
to keep the Bleffed Sacrament in ,
is able, or, nothing is able, to make
amends in fome fore, to our Sa-
viour for his courfe lodging in
Bethlehem , when he \vas born in a
ft able and lodged in a manger. The
cryftal pillars curioufly wrought,
and being a full Ell long , with
their Capitelll of pure gold : the
four like pictures of pretious (tones
which were five years, each of
them in cutting; the Variety of
other pretious ftones fet thick here
and there , and of great fize ; the
neat contexture of other polifhed
itones of feveral colours and i.uflre .-
the pictures of inlaid pretious
ftones, which compofe the Ante-
pcndiHm of the Altar •' the variety
of rich Cameos which are fet here
ani there , add cui into pictures : in
fine
of Italy. 175
"ne, the whole compofure of this Al-
T *r and Tabernacle , being the height
of wit and riches, I can neither de-
fcribe enough, nor you admire fuffi-
ciently.
4. Having thus feen the Gal- The Ar-
tery and adjoyning Cabinets , I gtntaria.
was prefently led into another
quarter of thisPallace, where I faw
the Great Dukes Argentaria , or
Plate. Entring into this great fquare
Room, I faw twelve great cupbords
as high as the Room, fet with excel-
lent plate in all kindes. In one of
them they (hewed me a whole fer-
vice of beat-en Gold , as difbet, plates ,
forces, [pomes, knives, with a world
of other rich velTels fet in Gold;
alfo little Pictures in miniature ;
curious little Cabinets befet with
Gold and Jewels ; a Turkjjh Cime-
tar, whofe handle and fcabbard of
Gold , are thick fet with Diamonds
and Precious Stones^two other /words
with their hilts of Gold curioufly
wrought with Diamonds -, a Dagger
iutable to one of them, and of the
fame richncfs ; a great Crofs fet thick
with Diamonds, and other precious
{tones
176 The Voyage
{tones, a rare cup of one great Em*
mtrAtid, with a cover to it of the
fame ^ a Bafin and Eure of Gold fee
very thick with Turk] flones. In ano-
ther Cupbord I fiw great variety
of Silver Plate in all kindes. In an
other they (hewed me a Saddle and
bridle with flirops of Golds , all fet
thick with Turfy Bones, Diamonds,
Pearls, and other rich ftones, with
the [addle cloth , or hostffe , all etn-
brodered with Gold and Pearl'.
this was a Prefent from the Emferour
to the Grand Duks- * n an ot ^ er
cupbord they (hewed me the four
great ftlver Bedpofts enameld here
and there, and fet with poliflied
ftones of divers colours : They were
made for the marriage bed of the
now Great Prlncefs , Daughter to
the late Duke of Orleans. In ano-
ther they (hewed me a curious
Anteptndium for an Altar , all
of beaten Gold fet with Pearlt ,
precious Stones , and the Picture
of Cofmus the Second in the mid-
dle of it , of curious enameled
work, with his Ducal Crown fee
with Diamonds very richly ^ all
along
Of Italy. 177
along this Antcfendium above, runs
an Infcription in Letters compofed of
many Rubies each Letter being two
fingers long, and- importing tilde
words :
GOSMUS II. DEI GRATIA
MAGNUS DUX ETRURliE EX
VOTO.
In another Cupbord I was fhown
the foot of an Elan t and a VifardaM
fet 3 and covered with Turkey ftoves.
5. Defcending from hence , we The great
were led into the great Halloi this Hall*
Palrace, a vaft Room , painted on all
fides of the Walls with bold Painting ,
reprefenting t;he Victories of the Flo-
rentins anciently. Here it is that oa
Midfommer-d,Aj the Country People
come and Dance before the Great
JD^,and the beft dancers are recom-
penced with an honourable reward.
6. From hence I was let into The low?
the long Corridor, or do fe Gallery , Corridot.
which runs from the New Pallace
to the Old, over the River, and
over the tops of houfes; for the
fpnee of half a mile, with many
turnings and windings. Its very
ufeful for the Prince when "he will
go
ij% Th ( e Voyag e
go fee his precious Treafure in the
oldPallace, or elfego privately and
hear how Juftice is miniftred there.
For the Great Duke Francis gave or-
der to BnontaleHtij a rare Architect ,
to break a window from this Corridor
into the great Room in the old
Paliace,where the Magiflrates render
Juftice, but yet fo privately, that
none fhould perceive it; The Ar-
chitect did it, by fetting up there the
Dukes Armes at large , and break-
ing a window behind them fo im-
perceptibly, that the Great Duke
through the little holes made in the
fix Bottles of his Armes, could both
hear and fee how Jttflice wss ren-
dered there by his Officers. And
one diy hearing a poor woman
oppreffed by an unjuft fentence, he
fent for the Judges , and repre-
hending them feverely, he rever-
fcd the former fentence, and hear-
ing the Caufe a-new himfelf , pro-
nounced Sentence for the poor wo-
man.
The new 7. This long Corridor led us to the
Wallace, new -Pallace , called the Palazzo
di Pin , becaufe it was begun to
be
of Italy. 179
be built by Luca Pitt, after the de-
fign of B rune lie fchi : but the ex-
pences growing tdo great for Phi's
Pude, it was bought by the Mother
of great Cofmus the II, and after-
wards carried on by her to that per-
fection we now fee it in, and which
makes it one of the prime Pallaces
of Europe. Thedefignof it (for it
is not yet all quite built ) is to be
a perfect Roman H, with double
Roomes on all fides. As you af-
cen^l up to it, by an eafie afcent
from the Street, it prefents you with
a fair broad-fide of building, in
which I counted two and twenty
great windows all in a row, and all
alike , and all of them cheekt up
on either Side by Fine Stone Pil-
lars. 1 he faftiion of building in this
Pallace, as in moft of the beft Pal-
laces of Florence , is that which
they call in Architecture, la ma-
niera rvftica ; where great Free-
flones are made advancing a little one
over the other. Entering into the
Pallace, we faw tha fair Court; and
in the end of it, the Grotta or Foun-
tain with a large Bafw , in which
they
The gar-
den.
180 The Voyage
they keep fifti for prefenx ufe,
This Court is fquare , and open
onely on one fide towards the Gar-
den, but hedged in with a high
terrafs of ftone , whofe top is level
with the ground of the Garden.
Beyond this terrafs and Court,
lies a fine green fpoc of ground
level with the firfi: ftory of the pal-
lace , and half compared about
with a demicircle of laurel trees
high and thick. Under thefe trees
of the demicircle, rife up (lone feats,
fix rows high, like the feats in* an
Amphitheater ; and capable of two
thoufand men , who msy all fie
here with eafe , and behold the
fports of Cavalry which are often
exhibited upon this fair green fpoc
of ground by the Nobility : the
Great Duke and the Court behold-
ing all this from the windows of
the Pallace , while the reft of the
Nobility and Ladies are feated con-
veniently in the Amphitheater un-
der the Trees. The re it of this gar-
den is curioufjy fet forth with
thickets of Bayes , clofe fhady
wralkes, Ene high open walkes over-
looking
Of It a
L Y.
looking both the Town and Coun-
try, great Fonds of water, a World
of fhtues of Marb'e and Stone, a
rare round bafin of water, with
Fountains, and much wetting fport ?
the place for Birds and Beafts^ the
curious Ice-bouft and cool Cellar
under it , where the melting Ice
dropping down upon the Barrels
of Wine , refrefh it fo exceedingly,
that in all my life time I never
drunk fo coole as I did at the
Tap in this Cellar. But to return
again to the Pallace from whence
this Garden hath led- me-, from the
Garden we afcended into the Cham-
bers of the Great Dukes apparti- <j-«
menr, and found them moft fump- ~ #
tuous, both for contrivance and fur- . /• .
niture. Some of them are painted m( l* rt *~
over head by Vietro di Cortom the
prime Painter now living: others
expe&his return again from Rome,
and fcorne to be Painted by any
hand but his: in another Cham-
ber we were (hown the Hiftory of
Seleucus, giving to his onely fon An-
tiochus ( languifliing and pining
away with the love of his Mother
in
A rare
fute of
Hang-
ings.
182 The Voy a g e
in Law,) his own beloved wife Stra-
tonica ; (hewing by this ftrange and
unick example , that paternal love*
is greater then Conjugal. All this
is rarely painted upon the wall over
the Hangings. In another cham-
ber (the Great Dukes Chamber of
Audience) I faw a Sute of Hang-
ings valued at a hunded and fifty
thoufand crownes; The Ground of
them is Cloth of Gold, upon which
are embrodered a world of Birds ,
Beaps, Flowers, Trees, Rity rs, Land-
ships in (ilk and filver^ and in fuch
a rich manner, that 1 take this to be
one of the faireft Sutes of Hangings
in Europe. In another chamber here,
I faw a rare collection of Pictures,
all Originals, and of the beft h nds
in the World, Titians , Raphaels,
Michael Angelos, Andrea del Sar-
ft>V, and many others. The belt of
them is that of Raphael , and
painted by his own hand. This
-is the belt collection of Pi&ures
that ever I faw, and it belongs ro
Prince Leopold the Great L-ahes
Brother, and a great Virtuofo. In
the Great Lmcheffes Chamber I few
half
of Italy. 183
half a dozen of excellent pieces of
Raphael and others. In another
chamber (I lie Dukes Bedchamber)
we faw h s curious Thermometers ,
or weather- gl a fles , which arc moft
curious. In another chamber ( the
doors being fet open for the nonce,)
we looked through fixteen cham-
bers at once, and all of them fair
gr^at rooms upon one floor. And
after all the rooms of this houfe (as, ,
the coole love fummer roomes , the
masking roome, the feveral apparti- «
ments of the Great Prince-, fon of
the Great Duke , and of Cardinal
John Carlo, Prince Matthias , and
Prince Leopold, all three brothers
of the Great Duke, and all lodg-
ing at once in this great Pallace )
by Ipeciai favour we got the fight
of the Great Dukes fair Diamond ,The fa-
which he alwayes keeps under mous Dl
lock and key. Its absolutely the amond.
faired in Europe, It weigheth 138
carats', and its almoft an inch
thick: and then our Jewellers will',
tell you what its worth. I am fure
Alpnficur Simonet in Lyons ( a fa-
mous Jeweller), to whom I fhewed
I thj
The Att-
gptFlins
Church.
The Pi-
azza.
184 The Voyage
the weight and thicknefs of it, va-
lued it to be richly worth a hundred
thoufand Crowns between Mar-
thant and Marchant, and a hundred
and fifty thoufand Crowns between
Prince and Prince.
8. Going from the Great Dukes
Pallace, we fell prefently upon the
Attgttftins Church. This is a neat
Church defigned by Brunellefchi %
and much beautified with hand-
fome pillars. The Tabernacle and
High Altar coft a hundied thou-
fand Crowns, -and yields to few in
Italy for neatnefs and ftate. Behind
the High Altar in the very end of the
Church, is a rare picture of our Sa-
viour abfolving the poor woman
catched in Adultery. The confu-
(ion that appears in the face of this
woman, makes it appear what a
rare Painter Allori was, who made
this Pidure.
9. Parting from hence over the-
Bridge (where four white Marble"
Statues reprefenttng the four feafons
of the year, Hand , all made by
Michael Angdo) we carre to the
Piazza of the Gran Dttca , where I
faw
of Italy. 185
faw thzEqueftrian Statue ofCofmm
the Great in Bronze, with his Victo-
ries and prime actions in the Pede-
ftal of the fame mettal. At the
corner of the old Pallace in this Pi-
az,z,a, ftands the brave* Fountain ,
with a Neptune^ Tritont, and Ne-
reides. Near the Gates of the Pal-
lace here, itand two Statues of more
then Gygantean bulk : that of Da-
vid is the hand of Michael Angela :
and that of Hercules killing Cacus is
of the hand of Bandinelli. The
other Statues here in the Portico
hard by, are much cryed up for rare
Pieces, as that of Perfem in Brafs;
that of the- rape ©f the Sabins, in
Marble^ and that of fuditb inbraCs
holding a fword in one hand, and
Eohf ernes his head in the other.
10. Looking up from this- Piaz-
za to the cop of the Pallace, I be-
held the high Tower mounted there-
upon. Its a hundred and fifty
yards from the ground , and which
is che wonder, it hath no other
foundation then the wall of the Pal-
lace and the top of the houfe: Hence
its faid, that the F/orentins have
I ij three
Three' 3 wonderful Tdtocrs : one in the air,
^dmirA' to wit, this Tower : another in the
Me Tow- water, to wit, the Fanal of ' Ligorne:
ers. and the third in the Earth, to wit,
the Campanile of Florence , whofe
foundations are exceeding deep in
the ground:
ii. Going from the Piazza to-
wards the Domo y we were prefently
ftopt by the Church ofS. Michael, a
fquare flat Church , whofe outfide
is adorned with rare Statues, if not
of Gold, yet worth their weight
in Gold. I he bed are, that of S.
Matthew in brafs made by Lau-
rentius Cion: that of S. Thomas
in brafs touching the fide of our
Saviour, with great demonftration
of diffidence in his lookes , is of
Andrea Varrcchios hand. That of
S. Peter in Marble is excellent for
the Drapery of it. That of S.
George in Marble is compared to
the beft in Rome, and hath been
praifed both in Profe and Verfe:
chat of St. Marks na th fo grave
and honelt a countenance, that Mi-
chael Angela (a competent judge )
flopping one diy to behold it, and
being
The
Church
t>f Saint
Michael.
o f It a l y. 187
being asked what bethought of it,
anfwered, if St. Mark had fuch a
countenance as this, as its likely he
had, a man might almoft, for his
iookes fake, beiieve all that he
wrote : for, never did I fee ( faid
he) any man have more the Iookes
of a good man then this.
1 z. Going from hence we were The D$.
prefently at the Domo. This, I mo ,
believe, was the fineft Church in
Italy when it was built. It was anci-
ently called S. Reparatas Church j
but (ince it is called Santa Maria
Florida, a fit name for the Cathe-
dral of 'Florence* The foundations
and architecture of it were contri-
ved by Arrolfo di Lapo, a Dutch-
man s W&ala manierarafiica y faith
Vafari of it, in his lifesof Painters.
Its one of the neateft Churches
without that I ever beheld ^ being
clad in white ^ red y and blacky mar-
ble, but its onely white plaftered
within, with pillars of a dark colou-
red freeftone. What if the Archi-
tect of this Church were fome-
what of Diogenes his minde ? and
as Diogenes thought the World
I iij would'
188 The
VoY A
G E
would be turned up-fide down one
day ; fo. this Architect thought that
the World would be turned infide
out one day , and that then his
Church would be the fiireft in
the World, and all lined with
Marble : As it is, it looks a little
hypocritically • though the Stru-
cture within be of a notable con-
trivance. On the top of it ftands
The Cu- mounted a fair Cupola, (or Tbolus)
made by Brunellefchi a Florentine.
This was the firft Cupola in Eu-
rope ; and therefore the more ad-
mirable for having no Idea after
which it was framed ; and for being
the Idea of that of S.Peters in Rome,
after which fo many young Cupo-
las in Rome , and elfewhere , have
been made fince.Hence it is ftid,that
Michael Angela coming now and
then to Florence (his Native Coun-
try) whiles he was making the
Cupola in Rome of S. Peters Church,
and viewing attentively this Cupula
of Florence, ufed to fay to it ; Come
tenon voglior meglio di te nonfoffo.
Its faid alfo , chat Brmellefchi
making this Cupola, caufed T>„
vims,
of Italy. 189
verbs, Cook-Jhop, and Lodgings to
be fee in it, chat the workmen
might find all things necefiary
there, and not fpend time in going
«p« and down.- and he had reafon ,
for this Cupola from the ground be-
low, to the top of all the Lantern ?
is two hundred and two Braccie, or
yards high.The/r^f Mfe* from
the top of the Cupola to the round
brazen ball, is thirty fix yards high.
The Ball is four yards wide, and
capable of four and twenty men: and
the Crofs at the top of this Ball is
eight yards long.The ftraight parage
up to the Ball is neatly contrived ,
like a round Chimney of white
Marble, with holes on both fides ,
and brazen fteps crofs thofe holes,to
climbe up eafily by hand and
foot , the paflage being clean and
fmooth.Trom the top of this Cupola,
taking a perfect view of Florence
under us, and of the whole Country
about it , with the fight of two
thouj and Villas or Country houfes,
fcattered here and there , round
about the Town, we came down
again to view the infide of this
I iiij Church-
Ipo The Voyage
Church. It is about three hundred
foot long, from the great doore to the
Quire , and from thence to the
end almoft two hundred more.
The Quire is round, and perpenr
dicularly under the Cupola , being
of the fame bignefs ^ and, upon fo-
icrni dayeswhcir the wax Candles
- ue lighted round about it,it lookes
glorioufly: otherwife in winter time
it feems too dark. The High At-
tar y which ftands- in this Quire, is
plain, like thofe of ancient Cathe-
drals, and adorned with a rare Sta-
tue of a dead Chrift in white marble
made by the hand of Bandinelli.
Looking up from the Quire to
the Cupla , you fee it painted on
the infide with the reprefentation
of Heaven , Hell and V ur gator j. The
Painters were Georgia Vafari , and
Thaddeo Zucchari. Behind the high
Altar are the rare ftatues of Adam
and Eve y by the hand of Bandinelli.
near the door of the Sacrifty you
may read an infcription, importing^
how that in this Town of Florence
had been held a General Ciunctl,
where
of Italy. ipr
where the Reunion of the Latin and'
Greek. Church had bees made. The
Golden Diploma of this union writ-
ten both in Latin and Greeks, and
fubfiribed unto by the hands of
the Poland Cardinals on the one
fide ; and by the Emperour of Con-
ftaminople y with the Patriarch of Leandro ]
Conftantinople, and the (7ra^ £*•■ Alberti
(hops on the other fide ; and authen- Defcript.
ticated by the Leaden Seal of the ltd.
Pope, and the Golden Seal of the
f.iid Emperor, is kept in the Ar-
chives, or Regifters of Bologna. In TheCoun
this Cornell both the Pope of Rome eel of Flo.
Eugenitis the IV*. and Paleclogus rente.
the Emperour of Conftantinople, were
prefent,with the Cream of Bifhops ,
both of the Eafttrn and wefiem
Churches ; and in this Councel not
onely the Proccffion of the Holj
Ghcfi from the Vvtf&r and the «SVj
Wi»s vindicated ; but alfo Purgatory
was proved to the Greeks out of
their own GreekSathers, as well as
out of the Latin Yathers; and di-
vers other points of Ceremony and
pra dice were aflerted & made good.
Unto all which the f?id Emperwr
I v and
192 The Voya ge
and Patriarch , and the other Greek.
Bijhops (except reftlefs Marcus E-
phefinm) fubfcribcd -, as did alfo the
Armenians, Ethiopians, Georgians,
and Jacobites , who all hereupon
were admitted to Communion by
the Roman Church. In fine, in this
Church you fee the Statues of divers
Saint t who- have been Arch-bijhop
of this Town ■, and the Tombes of
divers famous men ; as of Marftlim
Eicinus the Platonick^ Chriflian Phi-
her:-oi Dante the Florentine
Poet,.whofe true PiSture is yet to be
feen here in a red gown : of Joan-
nes Acutim an Englijh Knight, and
General anciently of the Pifam , as
the old Gothick Letters fet high up-
Jh- hi* on the wall under his Picture on
mftitution horfeback , told me. Yet Verfteg'an
»f decayed will not have him to hive been cal-
intelU- led Sir John Sharpe , but Sir fohn
gence. Haukjvood. But it imports little to
me what his name wis , feeing he
was abrive Englifhman, anddefer-
See Ba- V ed to have his Tomb and Infcnpti-
l^ritVA- on here, and his picture among the
ward the other Worthies in \.hz Dukes Gal-
Third. igQ Hercs alfo in this Church
t he
of Italy. 193
the Tombe of Brunellefchi, or Phi-
lippus Brunaltius, who made the
Cupola of this Church: as alfo the
Tombe of Giotto , who made the
Campanile, or fine Steeple here. In
fine, here lies alfo Cimabue the fa-
mous Painter of his time. It was he y a jfari in
that firft reftored Painting again, the Lives
which had been loft for many years of Paint-]
in Italy , and taught it to Giotto t G ad- ers ^ in ci-
di, Taffi and others, who carried it ntabtie.
on to a great height.
1 3 . Near to the Domo ftands the Th -Cam-
Campanile , or high Steeple of Flo- penile
rence made by Giotto. Its a hundred
and fifty Braccie,or little yards high,
and half as deep in the ground. Its
fl it at top, and crulted all over with
curious little poliflied Marble ftones,
Marble hilars, and Statues • fo chat,
(as Charles the V faidof it) if it
had a vfe to cover it wkhal, and
hinder it trom being feen too
frequntly, men would flock chither
at the taking off of this cover, as to
fee a wonder. Indeed its a kind
of -'onder to. fee, that in three
hundred yers fpace, not the leaft
pare of chac Steeple(all crulted over
I vj with
'The Jiap-
'Ijlerio.
1574 The Voyage
with Marble,) is perifhed. There
are divers good ftatues on aill fides
of it, but the belt of therm all is
that of the Z'hccom, or balldman,
made by Daiatello, which hte him- ]
lelfeftemed fo much, that: when
he would affirm any thing ferrioufly^
he ufed to fay • Alia fe ch'tie porto
al mio Zuccone : and the famie Do.
natello having finifhed it 3 fpoke to it
in jeft, and faid • Favella , horfu\
favelia ^ ti venga: U cacaftangtte :
fuch good conceits have fantcaitical
men of themfelves and theiir own
works.
14. Near to the- Bomo a!fo ,
ftands the Baptiftery -, or iround
Church of Sr. John , where a ill the
children of the Town are b:ipnized.
The brazen doors o( it (three iinall)
are admirable, efpecially that vwhich
looks towards the Great Chiurch,
of which Michael Angelo feeing
asked his opinion, anfwered, That
it was fowdl made, that ic rmigl t
ftand at the entrance of Par<ad\fe>
'Ihefe ^r/areall ofBrafs ImHo-
ned into figures, containing the
remiark?
of It a l y. 195:
remarkable Hiftories of both the .
Tpftaments. They were the work
of brave Laurentius C7%who fpent
fifty years in making them : a long
time, I confefs ; but, this is it which
Ape lies called Aternitati pingere ,
to work things that will out-laft
Bra fs, and be famous for ever. With-
in this Bapiflery I faw a Statue of
S. Mary Magdalen of the hand of
Donatelh- and its a rare Piece,
if you con^der Magdalen in her
Pennance. Heres alfo a neat Tomk
of Baltafar Coffa, once called John
the XXIV5 but depofed in the
Council of Confiance for the Peace
of the Church. The Ttmbe of this
Baltajfar looking fomethinglike a
Cradle, may be cafted the Cradle of
the greatnefs of the Medicean Fa-
mily., For fome Writers fay , that
Cofrn-M Medices , firnarned after-
wards Pater Patria , being heir of Alfonfo '
this Baltajfar Cojfa fwho died at Lofrbl in
Fforence, in the houfeof John Ait- his Com-\
dices.) With the Money that he pfW./i,-
foWnd belonging to him, after \\\s fl ,
death, did fuch good deeds to the
people, ,• ' J
i
ip6 The Voya g e
People, that he wonn tohimfelf the
name of Pater P atria ^ and to his
Family, that credit, which got it af-
terwards tTTe fupream command.
15. I cannot omit here to take
notice of a lictie round pillar in the
Piazza, near this Baptiflery, with
the figure of a Tree in iron nailed
to it, and old words engraven upon
it, importing, that in this very place
flood anciently an Elme-tree, which
being touched cafuilly by ihehe-arfe
ofSi.Zettobiw , as they carried ic
here in Proceffion , the Tree pre-
fendy hereupon budded forth with
green leaves of fweet odour, tho ug'i
in the Moneth of January In me-
mory of which Miracle , this Pullar
was fetup in the fame place for a
memorial.
iyy 16. From thence going to the
Church of Church of S.Mark^ belonging to the
S Mark. Dominicans , I faw there the Tomb
ofS. Amoninm rch-bi(hop once of
this Tovvn,nnd a Fry or of rb is order.
The Tomb is under the Altar 5 in
a neat Chippel on ihe left hand,
nrde b" John di Bologna. In this
Church alfo I faw a rare Pi&ure of
S. Mar^
of Italy. 197
S. JMark , made by Bartholomew
del Frate , it lhnds full in your
fight as you enter into the Church;
and a man muft be blind noc to fee
it, and dull not to like it, On the
left hand , as you enter into the
Church is the Tomb of P'wus A4i-
randula , commonly called the
Phaemx of Princes r with this Epi~
tafh written upon the fide of the
Wall,
Joannes jacet hie Mirandula^ cetera
Korunt
Et Tagas & Ganges % for/an & An-
tipodes.
Neat'tbisTombisafine Piftureup-
on an Altar, where two Little An-
gels are made playing upon Mufical
Inftruments. Thefe Angels are
held to be the r.ireft Pieces that can
be feen in Painting. They are of
the hand of Bartholomeo del Frate;
In the Convent of thefe Frjars I faw
often their ftill-houfe, where they
make and fell excellent extractions
and cordial waters. There is alfo
a neat Library here filled with good
Books
17. Turning from hence on the
left
i^8 The Voya g e
The An- left hand, I came prefentfy to the
nnnciata. Annuntiata^ a place of greac Devo-
tion.The Pi&ures of Faith and Cha-
rity over the Arch in the Antiporto ,
or open porch built upon Pillars,
are of the hand of lacomo Pcntornoy
being but yet nineteen years old ;
which, when Michael Angelo hrft
faw, he faid , This lacomo , if he
continue thus,will carry up Painting
to the skie«. Entering into the
little Court that fhnds before the
Church door, you fee it Painted
round about in Frefco by rare hands.
Thofe Pieces tint Andrea del S 'art o
made, are the belt. , and his head
in white Marble isfet in the wall.
In the Gloyfler^ over the door that
goes into the Church is feen a rare
Picture in frefco upon the wall, of
the hand of Andrea del Sarto. It
reprefents our 13. Lady with our
'Saviour upon her knee , and S. Jo-
feph in a cumbent pollute leaning
upon a Sack full Itufc , and reading
in a Book. The Pi&ure of the
Blejfed Virgin is admirable for
fiveetnefs and Majefty. This Picture
h called La Madonna del Sacco ,
and
of It a l y. 19 )
and it got Andrea fuch credit,, that
"Titian hi mfclf preferred it before all
the pieces he had ever feen, and
ufed often to fay, that it grieved
h m, that he could not often fatiate
his fight with the beholding of fo
rare a Pifture : and Michael Angc-
lo talkingonce in Rome with Raphael
Urbin concerning Painters, faid
thus to him: There is vn hmrncorto,
aiittle fellow in Flore nee (meaning
this Andrea, ) who , had he been
employed in great matters as thou
art,, would make thee fweat again.
V'mmfi make a great difpute which
of thofe three Painters was the moft
excellent : Raphael Vfhin } Michael
Angelo, or Andrea delSarto. But
the wifeft give every one his parti-
cular praife or excellency : Raphael
was excellent in colon: Michael Ah-
geto in defign : and Andrea in making
things feem to be of rilievo , and
look as God made them, that is,
pilpy, and rifinguplike living flefb.
Having thus admired the work of
Andrea, we entred into the Church
of the Annunciata , and there faw
the curious Silver Alter 9 behind
whicfe
200 The Voyage
upon the wail, is kept the miracu-
lous Piflure of the Annunciation,
which gives the mine of Annuncia-
te to this Church. The Uncle pi-
cture of our Saviour, about a foot
and a hilf long, which is feen upon
the out-fide of the Tabernacle, is of
theforefaid Andrea's hind, & much
efteemed In ths Church lyeth
buried B actio Bandinelli^ a famous
Scu!ptor,in a curious Marble Tomb,
with his own and his wives p : c%ire ,
engraven in Marble with his own
hand. Behind the gnire lies buryed
Joannes di Bologna,*, famous Sculptor
alfo , as his feveral works in Flf
rence (hew him to have been- as
the Rapt of the Sabins before the
old Pallace. The Centaure in the
Streets. The Chappel of S. Anto-
ninus in $>• Market Church. This
Cbappel in the Annunciata here,and
the golden Horfe and Man fpoken
of above in the Dukes Armorj, do
witnefs.
1 8. From hence,having firft feen
the Statue o{ the Great Duke Fer-
dinand on horfeback in Brafs, which
Hands in the Piazza before the
Annunciata,
of Italy.
20 1
Annunciata, r went to the Church
of the Francifcans , called Santa
Croce. This Church is of a large g An ft a
bulk and height, but fomewhattoo Crcce.
d^rke. The fide Altars are many ,
iRd cheeked with round pillars, and
adorned with excellent pidures.
The Pulpit would become &Chrj-
fiflome , or a Chrjfologue: Its of
•white Marble, in which are graven
the mod: notable adionsofS. Fran-
€is in a hajfo rilievo. I never beheld
it, but I found fome new graces in it.
Somewhat behind it , near to a
little door, is the Tenth of Mi-
chael Angelofhe Trifmegift oiltalj,
being the greateft Printer ,the great-
eft Sculptor , the greateft Architect
of his time. Hence over his Tomb,
and under his Pidure, are placed
three tvomcnin white marble, repre-
fenting ArchiteBurt , Parting ,
and Sculpture, holding in their
hands the feveral inftruments be-
longing to thefe profeffions. If you
aske me whether of the two Paint-
ing, or Sculpture, is to be prefer-
. ed, though a blind man being cho-
fen judge once of this queftion,
when
202 The Vo y a g e
when he was given tounderftnnd J
that in the fmooth Painting there
were Heads, Armes , Legs y Hands
and Feet, as well as in the bulky
Statue which he had felt, judged
prefently for Painting; yet Michael
Angclo himfelf preferred Sculpture
before Tainting as the body is to be
preferred before the fuperficiet of
a Body. But to return again to the
Tombe of this great artift, I found
iome words upon the Tombeftone ,
but thofe fo dull and hard to be
read in that dark corner, that one in
the company chofe rather to make
him a new Epitaph , then read that
which is written there : and it Was
this .,
Cur indignemurmortales rmrte perire?
Ecce,ftupor mundi ! hie Angel us ipfe
perit.
And 1 think the modern Roman was
of the frme mind too, when he
chofe alfo to make him this Epi-
taph :
Roma mihi mortem tribuit y Tttrenth
fit am.
Nemo alirs vellct nafci r & cbire,
locis.
In
203
of Italy.
In the midfl: of this Church I found
buried an Englijh Bijhop , called
Catri-ckjNho h d been Embajfadour
here from England, and likely in
the time of the Council of Florence;
His Arrrns were three Cats Argent
in a Sable Yield. In fine, at the ve-
ry end of this Church, on the left
band., ftands a neatChafpel, with
a Painted Cupola, belonging to the
Family of the Nicolini , in which
Chappelthere are excellent Statues
and Pictures.
19. Not farrfrom hence ftands 7^
the kbbadia, an Abbey of Btnedic- y
tin Aifonkj. In the Church is the
Tombe of the founder of this Abbey
a German Nobleman , called Conte
Hugo t who commanded Tofcany
under the Emperour Otho the III.
The occaflonot building this Mo-
naftery and many others by this
-Hugo, is too long to tell, and per-
chance would not find btlief every
where. Its told publickly every
year upon S. Thomas ■ his day in
high Mafs time here,by fome one or
other of the chief wits of the Aca-
demy of the Crufca - t and he thafs
curious
Ab-
J-
S. Maria
NQvella>
204 The Voyage
curious to' know it, may hear it
there, as I did, with great facisfafti-
on.
20. From thence I went to the
Church of Santa Maria Novella
belonging to the Dominicans. Here
it is, that the Councelof Florence,
fpoken of above, was held. There
are many good Pictures in this
Church, as alfo divers neat Tombes
of holy Men and Women , and p-
chers: among whiclyhat of fofeph
Patriarch of Constantinople 5 who had
been the Melted occafion and inftru-
ment of reducing the Greeks Church
to the right Faith again, is remark-
able. Us on the right fide of the I
Church.
21. Returning from hence along !
The St a- the River fide, we c me to the high j
tueoffu- pillar with the Statue of f fifties in j
fiice. porphyry upon it. It w.s erected
here,bec wife it was in this very pkce
where Cofmus the Great, beard the
news of the reduction of Siena. A
witty Nobiemsn f eirg this Statue
of Iuflice upon fo high a pillar, frid
rhat [uflit't here was too high pla-
ced, fox Jwor men to arrive co it.
Ah
o
f Italy.
°5
An other obferved, that Juftice
there" turnes her buck to the Courts
of Iujlke, which {land not farr
from thence.
22. Having thus vifited the chief
things in the Town, 1 vifited fome
places out of the Town- and chiefly, /w;*
the Poggio' Imperiale, a Villa belong- j m t r i_
ing to the Great E* m chefs , and a /f Ct
?bout a good mile diftant from the
Town. In this houfe I faw rare
Pictures, and great ftore of them,
the houfe being furnilhed with no-
thing elfe. In one gallery are the
true Pictures of divers late Princes of
the houfe of Auflria^ of the houfe /
of A4edices y and of other Princes
their Allies. In other roomes we
f; w a world of rare Pictures, ?s
the tttfm ofTitim, though I think
it be but a Copy: the admirable
S. Hiercme of Alberto Dureo : a
Magdalen o{ Raphaels hand^: a St.
lohn Bs.ptifl of Caravagio's hand :
an Adam and Eve of Alberto Du-
the Piety of Pietro Perugino ,
reo
thar is, the Picture of our Bletfed
Laty with our Saviour dead upon
for knee j S. hhn EvangeliSl, ;nd
three
Prato-
Li.10.
f
206 T h f Voyage
three ' i . '. -rfons (landing, or
' kr • ng h\ . With weeping faces,and
mdft i id lo >ta ; it«s o ie of the moft
movirg Pieces chat 1 ever beheld.
Then the FiUure of the Affumption
of 0.1. Ladym the Chappel, of the
handof Andrea del Sarto ; with a
World of other moft exquifit pict-
ures. The little neat Oratory in this
houfe, called the Oratory o( the
Great D utchefs, curioutty inlaid into
Flowers , by polifhed (tones of di-
vers colours; thatis, awholeclo-
fet of (hining Marble inlaid into
Flowers, is the neateft little Room
that ever I faw. In fine, the little
Grotte, and the Statue oi Admit
made by the hand of Alichael An-
<rdo are much efteemed,
23. An other day we went to
Pratolino , a Villa of the Great
Duke, fome fix Miles diflfant from
Florence Here we faw bthe Garden
excellent Grots, Fountains , Water-
works , Sbadjf-walkes , Groves, and
the like, all upon the fide of a Hill.
Here you have the Grotte of Cupid
with the wetting-ltooles , upon
which, fitting down, a great Spout
of
' Of 'Italy. 207
of water comes full in your face.
The Fountain of the Tritons over-
takes you fo too 3 and wafheth yoa
foundry. Then being led about this
Garden, where there are ftoreof
Fountains under the Laurel Trees ,
we Were carried back to the Grottes
that are under the Stairs , and faw
there the feveral Gimchi d* Aqua :
as that of P<*#.ftriking up a melo-
dious tune upon his Mouth-Organ
at the fight of his Mittrifs, appear-
ing over againft him : that where
the Angel carries a Trumpet to his
Mouth , and foundeth it • and where
the Comtrey Clown offers a Difh of
Water to a Serpent , who drinks of
it, and lifceth up his head when he
hath drunk : that of the Mill which
Teems to break and grind Olives •
th e Paper Mill : the Man with tht
Grinding Stone : the Sarazens head
gaping and fpewing out Water ; the
Grocte of Galate a who comes out
of a Dore in a Sea Chariot with two
Nymphs , andfaileih a while upon
the Water , and fo returns again
in at the fame Dore : the curjous
round table ■ capable of twelve or
K fifteen
Lampeg
gio 9
ao8 The Voyage
fifteen men , with a curious foun-
tain playing conftantly in the midf
of it , and places between every
trencher , or perfon, for every ma
to fet his bottle of wine in cold wa
ter ; the Samaritan Woman com in
out of her houfe with her buckets to
fetch water at the fountain, and ha
\ing filled her buckets , returns back
again the fame way : in the mean
time you fee Smiths thumping, -5 *W*
chirping in trees , Alills grinding
and all this is done by water, whicfc
fets thefe little inventions awork
and make them move asrit were o
themfelves : in the mean time ar
Qrgan plays to you while youdinej
there in Frefco at that Table , ifyouj
have meat. Then the neat Bathing
TUce^ the Pillar of petrified Water ;
and laftly,the great Pond and Grottd
before the Houfe , with the huge
Gyant (looping to catch at a Roc^
to throw it at Heaven. This Gyant is
fobig, that within the very thigh
of him is a great Grotte of water ,
called the Grotte of Thetis and the
Shell Fifbes,z\[ fpouting out water.
24. 1 went alfo to Lampggio a
Villa
Of I T A L Y. 20£
Villa fome five miles clitlant from
Florence, belonging to Prince- Mat'
thim. Its curioufly adorned with
Pictures , efpecially Battles o: the
hand of TempeBa, Here I fiw a
curious Cabinet of Coral and ena-
melled work The fine G'woco dl
Mtcha, or Turkj/hfl*j. The curi-
ous Glaflfes, and little Armory.
25. Returning to the Town a- The
gain , we faw the Great Dukes Sta- Stahlti.
bles full of excellent well managed
Horfes.
26- Near to the Stables, (lands the The
Serraglio where the Wild Beajls are Wild
kept, which they nuke fight often Beafiu
agunft one another. Here I faw
Lyons, Leopards , Tygers , Bears \
Wolfes > Wild Boars and Foxes, all
which they can let out feverallyac
the Dores of their feveral Dens,
into a fair Court to fight , and when
they have done,they can bring them
back again into their Dens by a
fearful Machine of Wood made like
a great Green Dragon , which a man
within it roles upon wheels ; and
holding out two lighted Torches at
the Eyes of it , frights the fiercer*
K ij Beafl
210 The V o y kg £
beaft- thereby into his Deri. The
Prince and the Court in the mean
time fta'nding' high above may
fee the Combats of thefe Wild
In the Beafts with eafe and without dan-
Chronolo" ger. I have read, thataZjw»here
q;y of Pr once efcaping out of this place by
trusRo- chance, and running up and down
muddm. the Streets, met atlaft (all others
to i. par- Ay' n g lnt0 Houfes) a little Child,
!* ° who had neither fear nor wic
enough to retire; and feized upon
him. The Mother of the Child
hearing in what cafe he was, ran
out prefently , a nd call ing her felf
upon her knees with tears in her
eyes , and humble poftures of
Amplication, moved fo the Lyon
to pity r that he rendered her the
Child without hurting it , or the
Mother of it.
I7. I faw alfo here divers Pal-
laces of Noblemen upon occafion of
their Fesline. ; For it' is the Cuftom
here in Winter, to invite the Chief
Ladies of the Town ( Married
Women onely ) to come to play at
Cards in Winter Evenings for three
- or four- hours fpace , and-this one
- S1 H n night
Of M Vl y. T 211
night inonePallace, another nighc
in another 'Pallace. I hither the
Ladies go, and find the Houfe open
to all Comers and Goers both LaMes
and <3en!hmw>, that are of any
garb. In every Chamber^ the Dores
are fet open j and for the moft pare
you (hall fee eight , or ten Cham-
bers on a floor t going out of one
another, with aiqaare Table hold-
ing eightPerfons , as many Chairs,
two Silver CandlefticKs with Waxe
Lights in them , andftore ofl.ighis
round about the room. At the
hour appointed .,. Company being
come , they fit down to play „ a .
Cavdm fitting between every
Lady, wAn\\*be Women as fine
in Clotbs and Jewels, as if they
were going to a Ball. The Dore/
of all thefe Rooms being open , the
Light great ,. the Women glittering,
and all glorious., you would take
tbefc-Pallaces to be thz{Enckdfted>
Vdlues of the Old King, of' the
■ Mountains. Any Gentlemen may
come into thefe Palaces and {fond-
behind the Gamefters , and fee both
fcow-modeftly they play , and how
Kiij little
Their
Sport/.
21 J The V ©y a g*b
little they play for. In the mean
rime there's a Side C hamber al wayes
open for Gentlemen to go into ,
and r«frefh themfelves with Wine
{landing in fnow,or with Limorwde,
er fome fuch Cooling Drinks, which
are alfo offered to the Ladies. In a
great Room below , at the en-
trance of the Pallace, there is a long
Table for Gamefters that love to
play deep, that is , that love to play
only for money.
The Florentine enjoying by the
goodnefs and wifdome of their
excellent Prince, the fruits of peace,
have many other recreation^ where
the people pafs their time cheat-
fully,- and think not of rebellion by
muttering in corners. For this rea-
fon, both in Winter and Summer
they havejtheir feyeral divertife-
ments. 'In winter their Giuoco di
JlGmocoCalcio (a play fomething like our
di Cakm Football , but that they play with
their hands ) every night from the
Epiphany till Lent _, with their
Principi di Calcio. This being a
thing particular to Florence , de-
serves to be defcribed- The two
Va^lions
Of Italy. 213
Tatlions of the Calcio , the Red
. and the Greex, choofe each of them ,
a Prince , forae young Cavalier of a.
good Purfe. Thefe Princes being
chofen , choofe a world of Officers,
and lodge, for the time, in fome
great Pallace •, where they keep
their Courts , receive Embafiadors
from one another, and give them
Publick Audience in State, fend Poft
to one another , complain of one
anothers Subjects, and take prifoners
from one another j hear their Coun-
sellors one after another, diffwading
from, or perfwading to war ^ give
Orders for fettling their affairs at
home ■ hear the complaints of
their fubjefts , jeer their enemy
Princes in Embafiies, and at laft
refolve to fight , with proclaiming
War. During thefe ferious Trea-
ties which laft for many nights,
the Secretaries of State (two prime
wits ) read before their feveral
Princes Btlls for regulating and re-
forming the abufes of their fub-
jefts *, and read openly Petitiens
an&fecret Advices : in all which they
Jeer a world of people in the
K iv Town
214 The V oy a g «
Town, and (how prodigious wit. In
fine, having fpun out thus the time
till near Carnavale , or Shrovetide ;
the two Princes refolve »n a Battle
at Calcio , to be fought in the Fiaz-
of Santa Croce . before the
z,a
Great Duke and Court. Upon the
day appointed , the two Princes of
the Calcio come to the place in a
moft ftately Cavalcata , with all the
youngNoblemen and Gentleme n of
theTown,upon the befl: Horfes they
can find , with Scarfs red, or green,
shout their Arms. Having made
their feveral Cavalcataes before the
Great Dukes Throne or Scaffold,
they light from their Horfes , and
enter into the Lifts with Tromipets
founding before them, and accom-
panied with a Stately Train , and
with their Combatants in their fe-
veral Liveries. Having rancked
themfelves a pretty diftance one
from the other,their Standard Bear-
ers at found of Trumpet , csrry
both at once, their Standards to
the foot of the Great Dukes Scaf-
fold. This done, the Ball, or Ballon
is thrown up in the midft between
them,
Of Italy. 215
therm , and to it they go with great
nimiblenefs, fleight, and difcretioa j
and fometimes they fa II to it indeed,
andl cuff handfomely : but upon
paiim of death , no man mull: relent,
afterwards out of the Lifts , what
ever happened here •, but all animo-
sities arifing here , end here top.
At Uft, that fide which throws,
or ftrikes the Bal'on over the
Rails of the other fide , wins the
day , and runs to the Standards ,
whach they carry away till night,
at what time the Conquering Prince
entertain them at a Feftimdi Ballo
at Court , made to (owe Lady - t and
where all his Chief Officers and
Combatans dance alone with the
Ladies at the Ball, noneelfe being
permitted to dance with them that
night. Befides thefe paftimes,they other
have once a week, dancing at the Paflima,
Court from Twelfth Day till Lent t
at which Baits, all the Ladies of the
Town are invited , to the number
fometimes of two hundred , and
ihcfe all Married Women f and all
invited by a particular Ticket. Then
K v their
€emti
216 T « E V O Y A e B
their feveral Opera's or Mafical
Dramata a&ed and fung with rare
coft and art. Laftly, their publick
running at the ring, or at the fanchin,
for a piece of Plate. And in Sum-
mer, they have their feveral Dan-
cing dayes , and their frequent
Corfidi Palio upon certain known
dayes and for known prizes, and all
before the good Prince>who co unte-
nanceth alUhefe fports with his pre-
fence> thinkingwtfefy , that there's
lefc hurt in public^ mirth , than in
"private mutinies;
Having laid thus much of 27<?-
rence , I will now fay fomething of
the Court 1 the Government % Strength^,
Gentry, Riches, Interefi, Language,
and Learned Men of this Town.
For the Court, it's clearly one of
the beft of Italy. Great riches
make it look plumps and give it an
excellent en bon point. The No-
ble Pallace, the Prince, his Title
ef ^ereniffimo, his Train and Retinue
of Noble Officers and Gentlemen,
his ftore of Pages , Palfremers,
guards of Suffers with Ha/birds ,
his
Of I
T A L Y.
117
his Troop of Horfe waiting upon
hinn , make this Court appear
fple;ndid. The Dufy himfelf alfojThe
who makes this Court, makes it a Great
fine Court. His extraordinary Civi- Duke,
lity to Strangers , made us think
our felves at home there. He is
now above Fifty , and hath an Au-
flrmn Z/oo^and Lip y which his Mo-
ther Magdalena of Auftria , Sifter
to the Empercur Ferdinand the
II. lent him. He admits willingly
of the Vifits of Strangers , if they
he men of condition ; and he re-
ceives them in the midft of his Au-
dience Chamber ftanding ^ and will
noc difcourfe with them , till they
be covered too. Its impoffible to
depart from him difgttfted , becaufe
he pays your Vifit whh-*armuch
wit as civility : and having enter*
tained yoa in his Chamber with
wife difcourfe , he will entertain
you in your own Chamber too
With a Regalo of dainty Meats and
Wines , which he will be fure to j-y
fend you, The Great Duchefs too Great
is an other main pillar of this fy; c hJx •
Court. She is of the Houfe of the
Duk?
2l8 The Voyage
- Duke efVrbin , once a Sovereign
Prince in Italy , but now extiinid in
her Father, who was the laft Duke "
and flie had been Soveraign of that
Dutchy 5 had fhe been of the So-
vereign Sexe : but what Nature re-
fufed her in Sexe , it hath given
her in Beauty , and fo made her a
Greater Sovtraign, even of Florence.
In a word , Florence the Fair , was
aever fo fair , as was- the Fair
lyutcbejfe of Florence when I faw
her firth Of her the Great Duke
lath two Sons. Cofmus the Prince
- / Tofcanie hi th married one of the
Daughters of the late Duke of Or-
kance. He is a great Travelle^and
hath vifited moft of the Princes
Courts of Chriftendom. The Name
©f this Family is Medices ; a Family
which hath given to the Church four
Popes y and to France two Queens.
This Family is antient , and came
The Me- firft out of Athens. It was always
diceav considerable during the Republic!^ of
Family. Fkrence , but far more, fince it
hath got the ftart of all the other
Families fo far , as to become
their Soveraign, The beginning of
the
Of I
TALY.
21*
the greatnefs of this Family came
from Co/mm Medices furnamed Pa-
ter Patrk. This man being very rich Set AP
and of a liberal mind , fpent four finfi
hundred thoufand Crowns in pub- Lofchi in
Iicik and private Buildings, and one his com-
hundred thoufand Crowns more in pendi.
loan Moneys to the poor Citizens. Hffior,
The'fe Generous A&ions which
fhould have got him the love of
all men, purchafed him, the hatred
of fome of the great Ones, who ac-
cufing him of affe&ing Soveraigntj,
rakfed a ftrong Faction againft him.
1 he heads of this Fadion were
Rinaldo Alb'tzzX , PaU Strozzi ,
Ridolfo Peruzzi y and NictloBar-
badori. Thefe men corrupting the
Suffrages of the Senate , caufed Cof-
mus tobeclaptup, with an inten-
tion to take away his life. Cofmm
m prifon fearing poyfon, abllained
from Meats lour dayes together,
and died almoft tor fear of being
killed : At laft he was refcued
from this melancholy humor by
his honeft Keeper ; who gave him
fuch aflurances , that he ftiould not
be poifoned , that he took Meat
again,
S30 The V«fa6e
again , and kept in his vital breath,
which was almofl: come to his liips.
Then his Keeper (not content: to
be half courteous ) having re-
covered his body , ftrove to reco-
ver his mind too , which was fore
(pent with fears and melancholy j
and for this purpofe , brought un-
to him the Buffon of Bernards
Guadagni then Confaloniero , the
Chief Magiftrate of the Republick,
who with his witty Jefts, fo cheered
him up with mirth, that he began
not only to think of Jiving again,
but alfo of getting out from thence,
that he might live long. To this
end he works with the Buffon to
carry a promife in writing from
him to the Confalomero , of iooo
Crowns of Gold , upon condition he
would free him. The Buffon under-
takes it , and money takes with the
Confalomero , who under pretence of
examining the caufe to put him to
death, finds him only worthy of ba-
nifhment , to which he condemns
himj and the place of his baniflimenc
was Venice. This was it that he de-
firei, for being at Vwm ;he wrought
The Go-
vernment
Of Italy, &2%
fo well by Friends with the People,
thait loved him , that he was refto-
redl again to his Countrey , and got
the Title of Pater PatrU by a Pub-
lick Decree. By this Title his Fami-
ly grew into thatefteem r that it o-
yer*topc the reft,and in time wrought
it frielf into Sovereignty.-
For the Government of Florence ,it
is mow Monarchical^ and Defpotical
the Great Dukes will being abfo-
lut<e % all great bufinefles pafiing
through his knowledge and liking:
fo that he wants nothing of a King r
but the Name -, and that too he al-
moin hath under the Name of Great
Dfvke.
As for the Strength of this State, The
it hath 20 Epifcopal Cities h 500 Strmtkl
little Walled Towns ; ftrong Forts
on the Confines : and can make an
Army of Forty choufandFoorjhree
thoufand Horfe,twelve Gallies, two
Galleafles , two Galleons , and
twenty Ships of War..
For the Gentry , its a Gentry
dyed in grain • that is , its both
vrktj and rich, The fubtil ayr of
this Country , and jhe Academy
222
H E
Vo
Y A G E
of the Cm fc a have fharpeneddhem
into much wit : and their good huf-
The bandry, and under.hand Traiffick
Gentry of hath put them notably into Piurfe.
Florence. For they think it no difgracce to
have a banco at home , and rmeet
daily atthe Exchange about Traiffick
and Trading; while their Wives
Lady it in Coach with their h;and-
. '^- - fomc Liveries. This makes tlhem
hold up their Nobility byrheClhin,
and no: only prcferves their Faimi-
lies from (inking • but rather makes
them fwira in a full Sea of Ho-
nour : they being enabled thereby
to buy Great Offices for their Chil-
dren in other Courts , whereby chey
often make them mount to the
Higheft Dignities : when they are
there, no man reproaches unto them
the way they took to come thither,
whether by Water , or by Land \> by
Traffic^, orbythe'Sttwvfi by the
School- Book.., QV Count- Book- If the
French Gentry wou'd follow this
way, they might hve Shoos and
Stockings for their children f which
fome of them want in the Countrey)
wherewith to keep their Noble
Blood
22$
Of Italy.
Blcood warm in Winter. Riches.
lFor the Riches or this Prince ,
theey are about a Million and a half
of Piaflri, or Crowns. Thefe are
his; Annual Revenues ; beHdes his
Jewels , Forfeitures ^ and his Datii:
whiich laft , are of vaft profit to
hirm.
TThe Interefl of this Prince is Interefl.
mutch jiuftrian, and confequcntiy
Spainijh •, yet not fo far , as to
bre:ak with France , to which he
opens his Ports and PalTages for his
owin fake. He loves to have no
Wair in Italy , becaufe he hath
formething to lofe : and though he
love to have the Pope his Friend ,
yet he cares not for having any of
his Subjects Pope. A Pope of his Fa-
mily, Clement the VII. having made
him what he is , he is affraid a Pope
of fome other Florentine Family
would ftrive to make him what he
was.
As for the Language of Florence The
its pure, but in their Books, not Lan-
in their mouths : They do fo choke guage.
it in the throat , that its almoft
quite drown'd there : nor doth it re-
cover
The Ac a'
demy of
Wits,
The
Learned
Men.
The Hi-
fiorians.
224 The Voyage
cover it felf again till it come to
Rome, where Lingua Tofcana in ihoc-
ca Remana is a moft fweet languaige.
The Academy of the Cm fed h:Uh
much contributed to the enriching
of this Language with choice
words. The rich Dictionary made
by this famous Company, and cal-
led from them the CVa/^was forty
years in compiling , but k willl be
in vogue as long as men (hall fpieak
Italian.
Finally , for the Learned Men of
this Town in later times , they
are thefe ; Marfilim Ficinus the
Cbriftian Platonick $ Dante >and
Petrarck. in Poetry : Gmeciardm in
Bifiory : Poggh in raillery : Vefpu-
cius in Geography : Accttrjiur in
Law : Michael Angelo in Tainting \
Joannes Cafa in Practical Morality :
Naclantm in Divinity : GaliUo in
Agronomy : Dsni, Luigi,AUmanni>
and others in Belle Letttre.
He that defires to know the Hi-
flory of Florence , let him read (7**
ovanni Villani , Afatthto Villani 9
Scipione Ammirato , and the Life of
GranCoftmo.
Having
O -f Italy. 225
IHaving thus ken Fair Florence,
we defired to fee Ligorne , and
ma ike an excurfive journey by ?{- FiHoia.
fltiia • Lucca, and P if a. Piftciais
an rancient 1 own in a plain Country.
Of it his Town is Clement the IX , tbe
laft Pope , of the ancient Family of
■R {ij>i£lio(i: and that is all f can fay of
it; for it looks baldly of it felf, either
out of pure old nge , elfe by reafon
of iits Neighbourhood to Florence,
whiich hath fleeced it , or which I
rather think , by reafon of its Civil
Factions heretofore , which almoft
ruined it quite.
Lucca is a pretty little Common* LhccaI
wealth , and yet it deeps quietly
within the Bofome of the Great
fifties State. But that State may
wifely fear none , which no State
fears • and the Great Duke is unwil-
ling to meafure his fword , or take
up the Cudgels againfl: little Lucca,
leaft the World fhould cry (hame
upon him, and bid him meddle with
his Mateh. This little Republic^ j ts Go-
looked in my eye , like a perfeft ver nment
Map of old Rome in its beginning.
Its
226 The Voyage
Its governed by a Confaloniero and
the Gentry. The great Counfel con-
fifts of 1 60 Citizens who are
changed every year. Its under 1 the
Emperors Protection ; and ic bath
about thirty thoufand fouls i.m it.
.Approaching unto it , it looked like
a pure Low- Country Town , wk.h its
Bricks Walls , Urge Rampart j fet
round with Trees and deep Af oats
round about the Walls. It hath ele-
Jts v'en Baflions well guarded by the
Strength. Townsmen , and well furniftied with
Cannons of a large fize. The Town is
three miles incomp afi; it hath thirty
thoufand Muskets , or half Mus kets
in its Arfenal, eight thoufand Pikes,
two thoufand Breil Pieces of Nluisk^t
proof, and More of great Artillery-
The whole State , for a need , can
arm eighteen thoufand men of fer-
Its Re- vice , and it hath about five hundred
venues, thoufand French Livres a?y^ar* It
was in this Town that C&far, Pom-
/>ey,and Crajfus met , ; and agreed a-
mong themfelves that all things in
Rome (hould pafs as they pleafed.
The chief things to be feen here,
are
Ot Italy. 227
•are Y the Cathedral, calle d S. Mar-
tiqffa whofeBifhop hath the Enfigns
of ;ah ArchWifhcj), to wit, the ufe of
the V allium r and the Crefs , and
whcofe Canons in the Quire wear a
Rocchet andCamail, andMitenof
filk KkeBifliofs.
72... The Town-Heufe , or Senate
Homfe '. where the Confa/ionero lives
duriing the time of his Ch irge. J
5. The Church of S. Frediano
belonging to the Canon Regulars ,
where , in a Chappel on the left
hamd , is the Tcmb of S. Richard
King of England y who died here
in his Pilgrimage to Rome.
4,. The Augujtins Churchy/here
is feen a hole where the Earth
opened to fwallow up arblafphe-
ming Gamefter.
Of this Town was Pope Lucius
the IIT. the two famous men of
this Town , the one for Soldie; y,
the other for Learning, were, brave
Caflritcio, and Sanftus fagninus*.
%mtmbnc\*n.
■ There are five Towns more be-
longing to Lucca^o mt 3 Ca-magi6r }
'Viar'eggia
Pifa.
The
Domo.
The
bending
Tower.
%i% The V o y a g h»
Viareggi* , Montignofo , Cafiiilione,
and Minuceuwo.
From Lzca we went to ,Pifa y
fome ten miles off. This was once
the head Town of a flouriftitnjg Re-
fubli k. . and then the Ntirmiantia
of Florence , and fcornihg its yoke :
but now it croucheth to it. It ftands
in no very good ayre , and t here-
fore hath been vexed with divers
plagues. The grafs in the Streets
of this Vniverfity , read me th is Le-
cture, and I believed it. Whereupon
I refolved to iky here one day one-
ly, in which time I faw
i. The Domo whofe Canms of-
ficiate in Scarlet like Cardinals.
This is a neat Church for ftruiiture,
and for its three Brazen Dores hi-
floried with a fine Bajfo relievo. Its
built after LamanieraTedeJcha , a
fafliion of Building much ufed in
Italy four or five hundred years
ago , and brought in by Germans
or Tedefchi , faith Safari.
2. Near to the Do no ftands."
f if leaning may be called (landing)
the bending Tower , fo artificially
made , that it fcetns to be falling,
and
Of Italy. 22p
amd yet it ftandsfirm: Ruituraque
femtper,ftat (mirxm) moles*
3. Cn the other fide of the
Dtomo , is the Campo Santo a great
fqtuare place cloiitered r.bout with
a l<ow Cloifter curioufly painted. Its
callled the Campo Santo, becaufe
therein is conferved the Holy Earth
brought from Hkmfalem in 50
Galliesof this Republick,*/* 1224:
Thiefe Gallies were fent by the Re-
pulb lick of Pifa, tofuccour the Em-
per our JEwbarbe, in the Holy Land. :
buit hearing of his death when they
came thither, they returned home
agiin loadtn with the earth of the
Holy Land , of which they made
this Campo Santoi
4. Some good Colleges there are Some
but unfrequented then by reafon Colledges.
of a late Plague: none running fa-
lter from the Plague than Scholars,
efpecially when it comes near to the
Schools.
5. The Public^Lifoary is much The
enriched with theaccefiionof <dl- Library,
dm Manutim his Library.
6. The Garden of Simples may be The
rare , buc we not undemanding this phjfick.
WtxhGarden.
2JO The Voyage
Hearb Languige: haftened it o the
Houfe of the Knights ofS. Steven.
The 7. This is the only Order of
Knights Knighthood that I perceived in F/o-
ofS.Ste- rence j and its very common. They
phano. wear a Red Crofs of Satin upon
their Cloaks , and prpfefs to fight
ag-nnft the T«r4/. For this puirpofe
they have here a good Houfe and
Maintenance. Their Church is beau-
tified without with a handfome
F aetata of white Marble, snd with-
in with Turkifh Enfigns and divers
Lanterns of Capitanejfs Gallics. In
this Houfe the Knights live in com-
mon, and are well maintained. In
their Treasury they (hew you a great
Buckler all of Pearl and Diamonds \
won-in a Battle againtt. the Turks.
Indeed Bucklers of Diamonds , do
but fhow our Enemies where we
are, and what they may hope for
by killing us. They have in their
Cancellaria , a Catalogue of thofe
Knights who have done notable
Service agunfl: the Turks •, which
ferves for a powofu: exhortation
to their fucceflVs , to do, and die
bravely. In fine, thefe Knights may
mairy
o f Italy. 231
marry if they will, and live in their
own particular houfes, but many of
therm choofe celibate, as more conve-
nient: for brave Soldiers; wives and
childhren being the true impedimenta
exercitus.
Heretofore , during the great dif-
ordenrs of the Gttelfs and the Ghibe-
lins, Anno 1282. this town was go-
verned by Vgolin a proud man,
who ruled here defpotically. This
man inviting one day all his friends
to a. great feafti began in the
midft or" it to brag , that nothing
was wanting to him.- Tes (find one
of his belt friends, becaufe one
who flattered him not) there's one
thing yet Wanting to thee, Ugolin ,
tn wit , the Anger of God , which is
not farr from thee. And it proved
true , for prefemly after , the Ghi-
belins ruftiing into the Pallace of V-
golin ( chief oft he Guelfs) killed in
his fight, one of his Sons and his
nephew , and taking him with two
other of his Sons and three iVephews
they (hut him up in a ftrong Tower ,
and threw the Keys into krno :
where the poor .man that bragged
L even
Ligorn.
032 The Voyage
even now in a feaft, dyed toon af-
ter of hunger ; having firft feen his
children and nephews dye of hunger
in his armes. A rare example to
teach proud men, that there's often
tut one day between a powerful man
and a peer man ; between a great
i^/and a great Fafi. Here in Pi/a
were called two Councils, the one
1409, theothen 511.
From Fifa we went to Lig«r^
(Fertus Liburnw in Latin )thtoxi$\
a pleafant Forreft. This is the onely
haven the Great Duke hath ; and
the mouth which letteth in that
food which fatteneth this State.
We ftayed not long here, the feafon
preiling us to be gone , and this
taown being foon feen. For the
'town its but little, yet one of the
jneateft haven towns a man can fee.
Heretofore it was not fufferable by
iTeafon of the bad air, but fince
Ferdinandthefirli built it aneW,and
dryed up ihe neighboring Fens (ga-
thering much of the water into
a cut channel , which goes from
tienccro Fifa, and carryes great
boats) the Townistw.ce as whole-
Ibme
4-
of It al y. 255
of Carthufians feated upon a round
hill-, whofe feveral celles and little
Gardens ( walled aboutj branching
out on all fides, like feveral Bajli-
w, made this Monajierj look
like a ffmtttal Fort, or devout C*Y-
tadel.
From hence pafflng through $ an c
SAK'CaJfiatto, we arrived at nightat/^ w .
PoggrBonzi, a little Town, famous
for perfumed Tobacco in Powder , P*gf%
which the Italians and Spaniards Bcnzi
take farr more frequently then we ,
as needing neither Candle nor Tin-
derbox to light it withal ,• nor u-
fing any other Pipes then their mn
Nofes.
From Voggi-Bwzi we came at
Dinner to Siena This is the fecond
Town of the Florentin State. It was
heretofore a powerful Republic^
commanding threefcore miles into
the Country, and now and then _.
beating the Floremins: but at laft,
after much ftrugling, this Woolftc °* Ste0a
ceived the muzzle, and Siena is now * re *
- he humble fervant of Ftorence.This Wool \'
happened Anno 1555.
This Town is feated in a very
L iij whole-
Siena
e arms
'■
The Do-
mo.
1^6 The Voy a ge
wholefome aire and foyl, and there-
fore much frequented by Grangers.
Its called Sena in Latin , from the
Semites, people of Gaul, who com-
ing into Italy with Brenms , built
this town. The ftreets are all paved
with bricks fet up edgeway, which
makes the Town alwayes dry and
neat. Its built high and low, with
many high Towers in it, built anci-
ently, in honour of its well defer-
ving citizens , who had done fome
fpecial fervice in the Republic!^ and
this makes it feen thirty miles off
on Romes fide. The people here
are very civil, and even fociable
too ,which together with the good
air, the good exercifes for gentle-
men, the good language , and the
great priviledges, make many
Grangers draw bridle here, and
fommer it , at Siena, the Orleans
of Italy.
The prime things I faw here
were thefe.
i. i he D&mo, one of the neaceft
Cathedrals of Italy , though it be
built a la maniera Tedefcha, Its all
of black and white marble within
and
of Ital y. 237
and without. The Frotitifpice is
carved curioufly and fee thick with
ftatues; Yec it ; wants a larger
pazz,a before it , i tt* give it its full
grace; The infide of this Church®
very taking. Under the roof im-
mediately runs a row of white
marble-heads of ail the Pops till
this time. The Pavement is the
beft in the world •, and indeed too
good to be trod on • hence they
cover a great part of it with boards The r*r.
hanforaely laid together, yet eafy Pave-
to be taken up, to (hew Grangers ment.
the beauty of it : Its of marble in-
laid into pictures , and thofe very
great ones : feveral'i^eat marble?
offeverat colours making the Sha-
dows and the lights v v and compo-
fing all together fuch a new kind
of Mofaick^ work , as all men ad-
mire, but none dare finifti. This
wprk was begun by Duccio Sanefe^
and afterwards carryed on by Do-
ntinico Becctfumi, but not finished
by him; faith Vafari. i hey told me
here , that it was Mecchar\m y
that made this pavement, but I had
L jv sathes
The Li-
brary.
% Kath ( .
of
rim
jSicxa.
238 The-Voyage
rather believe Vafari. That part
which they uncovered for us , re-
presented the Hiftoryof Abraham
going to Sacrifice his Son Ifaac;
and the Hiftory of the Macoha-
bees •, and the like. I confefs , I
fcarce faw any thing in Italy which
pleafed me better then this Pave-
ment. On the left hand (within
the Church) ftands the Library,
painted with a rare Frefco, which
is yet ravilhing and lively after two
hundred years : Indeed, the brave
ad ions of tsEneas Sylvias , (af-
terwards Pope Pirn II, ) which
thefe Pictures rcprefent, deferve to
be painted by the Sun-beams. The
Pidures are of the hand of Pietro
Terugino, Raphaels Mafier:- but,
when alls done, give me Books in
a Library , not Pictures. In the
Church you fee the Statues of A-
lexander the III , of Pirn II , of
PaulusY^nd of Alexander the Vll
all Popes, a nd Na ti ves of Siena.
2. /faw here the feveral places
which S. Katharine of Siena had
made famous by her Devotions : as,
her
of Italy. 239 X
her Chamber, where (he received
the holy ftigmata, now turned into
a Chaff el : the Chamber where flie
lived : with other memorials ot her
devotions,in the Dominicans Churchy
where they alfo fhew her head, and
finger: her body being transferred
to Rome, and lying in a little Chap-
pel within the Sacriftyoi the Domi-
nicans, at the Minerva.
3. The other things ordinarily other ra-
fhown here, are the great Hofpital : ritits.
the houfe of Pius JI, of the Family
of the Piccolomini : the great Piaz,-
z,a : the pillar with the Wolf of
Brafs upon it : the Marble Pillar as
you come into the Town from Flo-
rence, with the Armesof the Em-
pire and of Portugal upon it ; be-
caufe here it was that the Emperour
met Eleomra cf Portugal, and Mar-
ryed her in prefence of *ALwas Syl-
vius then Archbifhop here,and after-
wards Pope Pius II.
I f;w here the Academy cfwits,
uhlkdgli Intronati: why they fhouid 7/y ( ^
take that ;TLbitious name I know cadtmycf
not, u:ilefs it be in reference to wits*
the faying of a Philofipkr, who
L v f d
140 The Voyage
fad, that then finally Kingdomes
(h'ould be happy, when either Phf*
lofcfhers (hould be chofen Kings, or
Kings played the Philofphers. Indeed
Arifiotle holds that they that are
ftrongof body, are made to ferve
and tug at the oar of Commands :
and they that areftrongin wit, arc
born by nature to (it at the helm ^and
comm ndosherj.
5, This Town hath furnifhed
£he. Church with a. General Council
of an hundred and thirty Bifhops ,
oiled by Nicolas the third : with
three great Saints. S Bemardin re-
former of the Minorites-^ St. C atha-
rine the holy Virgin; and Beatus
Cblumbams, Inflitutor of the Or-
der of 1 lie fefuati , a mtn of jgreat
learning and Sanctity.- with five good
Topes, to wit, Alexander the IIT,
of the houfe of Bandinelli- PitislL
of the h oufe of Viccolomini ; V^aulus
V. of ihe houfe of Burgefi\ and
Alexander the VII. of the hoirife of
Chifi: And -in fine, it hath ffutni-
fhed the world with 2 champions in
\f\\\\\i\^Ambrofitis Veliti for C,atha-
pmtsX who wrote Icarned'y againft
Lot the*'
o
f Italy. 341
Luther and \Erafmus ; and Adri*
m'Pfiliti who wrote againft Igno-
rance by his learned Dtttionarj.
He that Would know in particular *j-y u r
the Hiftory of Siena, let him read ft or y,
Orlando Malevolto.
From Siena we went to Bon Con-
v&ttOy Tornieri^ San £uirico jncon-
fiderable places upon the rode, and
fo to Rodicefino a ttrong Caftle upon Radico-
a high hill built by Defiderim King fi m *
of the Longobardsy This is the laft
place of the Florentine State ,but not
theleaft inftrength.
Dining here at the Great T)u\es
Inn at the bottom of the hill, we
went to lodge at Aquapendente ,
which isfome 12 miles off, aud the
firft town of the Popes ftase. —
This Town ftands upon a hill,
from which the waters trickling -^#4-1
down foftly are faid to hang pendens
there, and give ic the name of
Aquapendente Of late this town ts
'made a Bfliops Seat by the Demoli-
tion of Caflro , and the removal
of the Bifhops Seat from thence
hither ,which happenened upon this
JL vj occa-
€kw. jta
not 25.
ma, 2.
Bdje»(t.
242 The Voyage
occafion. Cafiro was a Town be-
longing to the Duke ofVaMtr* 9 thi~
thee .'Pope Innocent the X. fent a
good Bifhopto govern that Flock •,
bat, the Bifhop upon his arrival be-
ing killed there, the ?ope fent Gwtc
Vidman (General then of the
Church ) with order to demolifh
► Caflrd \ and he himfelf transfer ed
the Biihops Seat from thence to
A q pi apt ndente % . and all this accor-
ding to the Canon Law, which or-
dains, that that City, which kills its
Bilhop ihould be deprived of the
Biihops Seat ever after.
From Aqaapendente we came to
a little Town called San Lorenzo ,
and not long after to Bd/ena^ an-
ciently called V*bs Volfinenfwm.
Here it was that happened the fa-
mous Mimcle in confirmation of
the Real pre fence of 'Chrifis Body and
Blood in the Biffed Sacrament jwhicb
happened Anno 1263, and which
give occafion to Pope Vrbaw the
IV to command that the Feaft
of Corpus Chrifli fliould be kept
U'Jj chg ever after. The Mi-
.•ra de
na.
o fItaly. 243
- acle is related By Leandro AWerti
the Camden of Italy, and by learn-
ed 0»nphrius Yanmnus , in the life
Of Urban the IV.
We paffed alfothat morning by xkLah
the fide of the Lake of Bolfena • in fg /r e J
the middle of which is a little Ifl'ani
in which hmalafmrita Queen' of the
Ofirogoths, a woman of lingular
parts, wa6 miferably murthered by
her neareft kindred, Heres alfo a
little Convent otCapucins.
Having pafled along this Lake a Bofco
great while, we entered at laftinto HtUrne,.
a. Wood called anciently Lttcus
Vo/finenfium^nd now^Bofco Hekrrto.
It was formerly a dangerous paffige
for Bandito's: but now its free from
danger,(ince Sixtus <£uintHs purged ..
the Ecelejtaftical State of that Fer-
min 9 by making- a Law, that whofo-
ever fhould bring in the headof a
Butndito, (hould have pardon, impu-
nity, and recompence too of fome
hundred Crowns, whereupon the
Bandits foon deftroyed one another.
From this Wood we foon came to
jMotttefiafcone ftanding upon a hill. Monttf-
Itc a Bifhops Seat^ and famous a/cone.
for
244 TheVoyage
for excellent Mufcattllojvfae;&Xi&
this wine is iamou9 for having kil-
led a Dutchman here who drunk
too much of it. The ftory is true and
thus. A Dutchman of condition tra-
velling through Italy, fent his man
before him alwiyes,with a charge to
look 'out the Inns where theibeft
Wine was, and there write upon the
Wall of the Inn the word EST,
that is to fay, Here it is The fer-
vant coming hither a little before
his Matter, and finding the Wine
excellently good , wrote upon the
Wall EST y EST, EST, fig-
nifying thereby the fuperlative
goonefs of this Wine. T he Matter
arrives, looks for his Mans hand-
writing y and finding three ESTS,
is overjoyed \ In he goes, and re-
folyes to ly there : and he did fo in-
deed : for here he lyes ftill , bury-
ed firft in wine, and then in his
grave, For drinking too much of
this good Wine, he dyed here, and
was buried by his servant , in a
Church here below the Hill, with
this Epitaph upon his Tomb, m \ de
by the fame Servant, Propter. &S T,
EST,
of Italy. 245
EST, EST, herns mem mortims eft.
It was here alfo, that the gallantry
of the brave Roman General Camii-
Ins appeared very much. For while
he was befieging this Town 5 cal-
led then Phalifcum or Vhakris , a
treacherous School '-mafter having
brought unto him the chief of the
yong youths of the Town, whom
he had deceitfully drawn unto the
Roman Camp , under pretence of
taking the aire abroad : by which
means Camlllns might have frigh-
ted their parents to an unworthy
rendition : the brave Roman who
fcorned to overcome by any other
way then that of Gallantry, cr-ufed
the School- mafter to be Gripped and
his hands to be tyed behind his back,
and to be led into the Town again,
with the little youths whipping him
as he went, till he had brought
them home agiin. This noblenefs
of Camillas took the Town pre-
sently, becaufe it took with the
Town/men • who ndmiring the Ko'
mjtn Generoftty , fubmitted willing-
ly to Camillas, who' had chofen
r.a-
1^6 TkE Voyage
rather to take Towns by his own
Valour , t then by other mens ini-
quity: Indeed, ( as Valerius Mar
ximus faith) it did not become Rome
built by the Son of Mars , to take
Towns otherwife then Martially.
From Montcfiafconc we went
down the Hill by an eafie defcent
Viterbo, unto Viterbo- This is an Epifcqpal
Seat, {landing in a wholfome aire ,
and therefore called Viterbmm r as ic
were, Vita Vrbium. Here are excel-
lent Fountains of water,and ftoreof
them ; bnt, its pity none of them
run with good Wine, to make a
mends for the bad, which are moft
of them Vim cotti. I he two fa&ions
here of the Gatti and the Maganeft,
(thefe ftanding for the Vrftm,t\\o(z
for iheColomeft) ruined heretofore
Viterbo over and over again. In the
Domo there are the Torches of four
Popes, as alfo in the Frjincifcuns
Church fome Tombs of Popes^nd of
S.Refa.-you fee the body of that Saint
yet emire, though buryed above 100
years ago. She lies along in her
Xombe, and is feen by the drawing
of Italy. 247
of a curtain from before her:
Heres an Academy ofcwits called ^he 4.
CU Oftinati, to ftiew perchance,that ca j m y c f
a man cannot be learned with- wj ts f '
out obftinate labour and paines.
Hence the Poet makes the learned
man to be one who multum fudavit
C7- alftt : and Perjtta tellt us, that
his delight was to grow pale with
obftinate night fludy : Velle fuum
CMque f/?,&C
At rne noUurnli juvat impalhf-
cere chartis.
About a mile from Viterbo ftands
a neat Church and Convent \ called
Madonna del Querco , and as farr
again beyond that, a fine houfe.witn
a Garden of water- works and Foun-
tains, worth feeing.
From Viterbo ( being upon our
own horfesj we went to fee Capra- Capraro-
rota, a {lately Houfe belonging to I**
the Duke of Parma. The Houfe is
held to be one of the finefl in Italy
for Architetture. It ftands a little
out of the Travellers rode, but not
of his way : for its much in a mans
way to fee fuch a lovely houfe as
this, It (lands upon the fide of a
bill*
248 The VoYAGrE
hill, and from on« of the Bi ato-
nies it (hews you Rome fome two
and thirty miles of. Its built in a
pentagon ( if I temember HvellJ
without , and rouid within. The
Chambers for all that, are fqmare,
and well proportioned. The chief
of thefe chambers are painted by
the hand of Pietro Orbifta^ florifti-
ing thus upon the noble a&io>ns of
Pantos I [ I. Among the mother
chambers , the wkiff>eri*g chamber
is curious, for four men here (land-
ing, each one in one of the four
corners of this great chamber, hear
1 diftinctly what any of them whif-
pers "m a tow tone in his corner ,
their faces being turned to the
wall h and yet thofe that ftand in the
midit ot the chamber cannot h:ar
it. The other chamber is no lefs
curious, where ftanding in the midft
of it, and'ftamping hard with your
foot, thofe that are without at the
door , think they hear the cracks
or repom of fiftols. The other
roomes here alfo, as the Kit chin
all of one (tone if; the low Cave
alfo with the pillar »irt it,' cut like-
wise
of. Italy. 249
wife out of a reck, and bearing up
the whole pav^ enC °f tne round
Court which lets light into this
Cave by divers round grates of iron,
are worth the beholding : Then the
Garden upon the Hill-fide with the
great variety of waterworks, grotts,
and wetting fports, are all carious
things. Having walked this garden
about 5 you'l defire after fo much wa-
ter, a little wine, which will not be
wanting to you,from the rare Cellar
lying under the greztTerratfe before
the houfe^nd perchance you'l think
the Veine-workf here as fine as the wa-
terworks.
From Caprarotavit fell into our
way again at Monterofa from
whence pafling by Bacano , and the Monte-
Hofieria del Storto, we came at **/<*.
night to Rome.
All the way from Monterofa to
Borne almoft. belonged antiently to
the Vdentes ffo called, fiith Be-
roftis^ from their carrying about
with them in Carts, all their goods)
Nea r toBacan is a Jake out of which
runs the River Van* , antient-
entJy called Cremera , near unto Varc*.
which
2$o The Vo y a g e
which the Vettntes killed in one
battle, three hundred Fabii % that is,
the whole family of the Fabii (who
had vowed themfelves to death for
the Commonwealths fervice) except
one little boy nOr able to bear arms,
from whom Vabins Afaximm, the
terror of Hannibal, andRomes buckc
/frdefcended.
- Upon this rode alfo flood antient- 4
Vm. ly the town VeU t a town which held D
out ten Summers againfl: the Ro-
mans , and ftood in need or no lefs
man then Gamillus to take it. This
town was once fo great, that Rome
being deftroyed almouY by the
Gauls , the Senators held a Con-
sultation in the Comitium, whether
they fhould retire to Veil, and leave
Rome quite, or rebuild again
Romes walls j but during this Con-
futation, the troopes returning out
of garrifon , arrived by chance into
the Comitittm^ where the Centurion
entring, and not thinking the Se-
, xators had been there , cryed out
Valer. t0 t h e Standard-bearer* Signifer
MaxJ.i. fiatue fivnum , hie of time manebi-
€ 'S' mm j wnich words the Senators
hear-
of Italy. 251
hearing, cryed out to one another ;
■AccipmHs omen ; and prefently laid
afide all further thought of retiring
to Veil.
Some twelve miles before we came
to Rome , we faw the Cupola of St.
Peters Church- and were as glad to
fee it a farr off , as the weary Tro-
jans in *s£neas his Company, were
glad to fee Italy afeerfo much wan-
dering. Some few hours after, ha-
ving paffed bymoldTombe, which
fome call Nero's Tombe, and over
the Ponte Molo (of which more in
my 2. Part) we entred into Rome by
the Via Flaminta, and Porta del Po-
fttlo.
The End of the firft Part,
THE VOYAGE
OF ITALY:
OR
A COMPLEAT IOVRNEY
Through italy.
tHE SECOND PARt
WITH
?HE CHARACTERS OF THE
People , and the defcription of the chief
"fovpnes-t Curcbef)MonaJhries, Tombes-,
Libraries, Pallaces^Villaj ^Gardens,
PWttres-yStatueSiAntiquities :
AS ALSO OF THE INTEREST,
Government, Riches, Force,&c.of all
the Princes.
-By Richard Lassels Gent.
Opw fojlhumum.
Corrected and fet forth by his old friend
and fellow Traveller S. W.
PRINTED AT PARIS
By Vincent dh Moutier,
M. DC. LXX
THE SECOND PART
OF
THE VOYAGE
OF ITALY.
iElN G arrived at
Rome, we lodged in an
Inn for three, or four
days, till we had
found out , and fur-
ni(hed, a libufeto our \
fatisfaclion. That done I began
presently my Inquefi^ and made Hue
and Cry after every little thing which
time teemed to have robbed us of.
But as we approach not to great
perfonsin Italy without informing
our fclves firft of their titles, that-
we may know how to fiile them :
fo before I bring my Reader ac-
quainted with Rome, I think, it not
Aa 2 am ifs
How
Rome is
X.om.% la
Santa.
4 The Voyage
amiffe to tell him how this great
City is commonly called.
And although -Rome were ancient-
ly fiyled the Mead, and Miftreffe of
the world i an Earthly GoddeJJe ;
The Eternal City j the Compendium
ff the World ; The Common Mother,
and Nurfe of all Vertues •, (while
(he vns yet Heathen ■> ) Yet fin ce her
Ladyftiip was Baptized and became
Cbriftian ( though (he have had
great Elogies made of her by the
Holy Fathers, ) I rind no Title Co
honourable to her as that of Roma la
Santa , Rome the Holy j which is
given her by the Common Troverb j
and common Proverbs are nothing
elfe but the obfervation of common
Senfe : For whereas the other Cities
of Italy are Proverbially called either
Fair? Gentile, Rich, Prowl, Fatte,
or Great ; as Florence , Napier,
Venice , Genua , BJogna , Milan i
Rime only is (tiled the Holy : and
this defervedly, for many rea-
fons.
Firft, For being the Epifcopal
Seat ot 5.. Peter and his Succejfourr, i
to the number of £40 and odd Popes.
2. For
Serm.i.
de Katctl.
Of Italy 5
2. For having been watered at .
the rootes by the preaching and
blood of the two glorious Apoftles.
S. Peter and S- 2afd A Which nude
£. Leoy fpeaking to^Msc>/bfthefe
two great AiolUes , marie ■ her
this Apojtropbi. Hi jant qui uMjp ft.
have- glori.itn frovexerunt, vt gois Petri &
fanUa^o\u}us lUUus'f. clvitas Sa- Paul '
cerdotilis &J£egij, per fac-am Beati
fetri ferlem caput odis rfecia-> la~
tius pr<efideres religiove dhina qujm
dominatione terrena.
3. For having been looked upon in
all ages, as the Center of Catholic^
Communion : and the place where
the Matrix and Radix Ecdefia, the
Mother Church and the Radical
Church ( as S. Cjprian calls her)
did rlourithalwayes.
4. For having been warned and
purged in the blood of fo many
thoufand Martyrs in the primitive
times, which even baptized Rome
a new, and made it be called by
Holy Fathers Neva Sion: a New
Sion.
5. For having fo many Saints
A a 3 bodies
Great
Cbarttiet
in Home
6 The Voyage
hed'us lying 'in its Churches i and
Tq miny Churches within its pre-
cincts, which are above three hun-
dred in all.
6- For having been the happy
occafion of converting mod of the
Nations of Europe, and many others
out of Europe, unto the faith of
Chrlji , by Preachers fent from
t lie nee.
7. For having been the Depo-
(nary X asS, Jrentus calls her) of
the Holy dpoftolical Traditions and
doc'trine, which have alwayes been
conferved in her Church.
8. For having alwayes conftrvecC
the Sjmbdle of the creed inviolably
C faith S. Hierome).
Befides thefe forefaid reafons,
Rome may defervedly be called
Holy , for the many and lingular
acts of Charity which are done
there dayly more than in any other
place. Charity is the Queen of
Vermes sand if ever I faw this Queen
in her throne, it was in Rome. For
there I faw no evil, either of body-,
' , or
O f Italt 7
or mind, but it had its remedy, if
curable i at leart its comforts if in-
curable.
For the firjl, towit , Evils ff emdie *
body, it hath its Hofpitals, and thofe-;?^^.
many , and many of thofe are a»
"Hofpitals in folio* Btfides no Pilgrim N
comes to Rome, but he„fmdes Rome*
as Adam did Paradife, with the
table covered, and bed made r£ady
for him. Poor young girks find por-
tions either for husbands or nunne-
ries, according to their choice ; In-
fants whom cruel and unlawfull
mothers, like wolfes, expoie to
death, fame receives to life > and Mtre-
thinks it but a fuitable Antipelar- tricts lu2
gefts to nourifh wolfes children , $£*;££
feing a Jhe-tvolfe nourished her Luparia.
Founder being expofed by men. Augufi'm^
Fooles too and Madmen, Co much the ie &wu
more miferable, as not being io Deul ' l8 '
much as fenfible of their condition
( for fape calarnitatis folatium f(i
nojfe foriem Juam ) have here thofe
that take care of them. Poor men?Z[ nt '
find H>fpitals when they are fick >
and Gentlemen, whom nature hath
not exempted from common mi~
A a 4 jerks
Curt.
S T he Voyage
Series, Kome exempts from common
Bofpitals j and not being able to
/.give them better health, me gives
f hern at lean" better accommodation
in their ficknefs. Here you (hall
find an Apothecaries /hop, founded
by • Cardinal Francis Barberin, with
a yearly revenue of twelve thou-
fand crownes, and this for ever \ to
furnifh the poor with phyfick
gratis.
Here you (hall find the Hofpital
of the H)ly Trinity which in the
Jubily year of Clement the VIII, is
tound to have treated at table in
one day fifteen thoufand pilgrims:
and in the whole year five hundred
"thoufand. The laft Iubily year 1 650,
I my felf was prefent one day,when
the faid Hofpital treated nine thou-
fand Pilgrims that day : the Pape
himfelf ( Jnnoctnt the tenth ) and
Yvenvt man V °f &* Cardinals having been
tionh.nb rhere t0 w *& the feet of the pil-
•«»tfo/p-gri m s 5 and to ferve them at table.
tal in Add to this, that every nation hath
Row. here its feveral Hofpital and Refuge,
with Church and Churchmen to ferve
it. As the Englifh Colledgt , once
an
Of I r alt 9
an Ho/pital for the Englijh '. That
of the Anitna y for the Germans :
That of the S. Lewis ■> for the French:
That of S.Iacomofot the Spaniards »
That of S. Antony of fadua y for
the Tortuguefi : That of £• lulian
for the F lemmings: That oiS.Am-
brefe for the Lombards : That of
S. Jtf0 for the Britons : That of
5. Hierome for the Iliyrians : That
of 5. Mzry Egyptiaca tor the Arme-
nians : That of S. Stephana for the
Hungarians : That of 5. Stanifljus
for the Tolonians. Befides a world .
ofothers. Nay almoft every ci)^
ration or ZWy o/ artijans have their
Hbfpital among themfelves, which
they maintain. In the Cburtb of
the l2Ap](h they choofe yearly 12 ■
noblemen & one Prelat who iscalled
their Priar .* Thefe go into every
corner of Rome to feek out poor
men who are afliamed to beg, and
yet are in great want. Thefe bafbfil
poor men put their names into a
coffer well locked upand ftanding in
a publick place, by which meanes
thefc charitable noblemen find
them out and relieve them,
A,a'5 / What.
r
jo TheVoyage
What {hall I fay of thepublick cha-
rity of the Pope bimlcli well known
to all i Befides a world of private
charities which he gives by hisSe-
creto Limofwiero to thofe that are
afhamed to beg publickly.
The like do many Cardinal* by
their own hands, and in that high
imeafure, that Cardinal Mont alto
. ( to name no more) is found by his
books of Accaunts-, to have given
away above a hundred and (even
thoufand crownes to the poor. 0£
which pious Cardinal I cannot omit
to write thj[s following ftory, as I
havelearncdit from very good re-
lation.
jHfttge-u £ poor widow of Rome
T/S""" mother of one onely daughter
ct both young and hand(bme,got her
" living honeftly by her owne, and
"her daughteis labour i and rubbed
"out poorly , but yet honeftly :
"Now it happened, that this
"widow falling fick, and her
a daughter having enough to do to
" tend her , their work went on '
■ fo faintly, and their gains came
44 info flowly, that at her recovery,
" (he
•fGharity
Of Italy* j x
cc /he found her -purfe as much
t( fpent, as her perfon. Whereupon
c< being called on for the quarters
" rent of her chamber, & not know-
ing what to do, fhe was advifed
<{ by her Confeffariut to go to Car-
" ttinal Mont alto {^who gave pub>
" lick audience thrice a week to all
ct the poor in Rome) and to beg as
" much of him, as would pay her
" little debt. Prelfed therefore by
" her great neceflky, & emboldened
" by the fame of the charity of this
"good Cardinal, /he entred the
"palace, and found him in his
"great hall, giving ear and almes
Cv toall thofe that could give him
"a good account of their wants.
tC In her turn (he, and her young,
" daughter approached unto him .
«« fitting at his tables end * and ex-
" prefling modeftly her wants caufed
" by her three months ficknefs ,
" (he humbly befought his Emi-
" nence t to give her five crowms for
4t to pay the rent of her chamber,
"and pacify her Landlord who
" otherwife threatened to put her
" out of doors. The Cardinal feeing
A a 6 a?
I* ^ H E VOTAGE
"as much modefty in her looks
<c a$ ficknefTe in her countenance*
and liking well , that fhc
tC did not go about to fright him
" into charity , by urging the
" danger of being forced one day
"toexpofe her daughter to lewd
" courfes ( a common Rhetorical
" rigure of beggars in all countries)
•'wrote down in a little paper,
"50 crowncs to be given to hen
" and folding up the paper, he bid
"her carry it to his fervant below
ct at the entrance of the pallace,
u who kept the Cardinals bills and
'" payed the contents of them. She
tC did fo with humble prayeri of
.** thankfullnefs -i and the ftrvant
. " upon fight of the paper, prefent-
"ly threw her 50 crownes, and
tc bid her make an acquittance for
"it. The poor woman feeing 50
- ' crownes counted outforherwho
" had asked but 5 ■> and fearing lea/1
- thc fervant upon light of her
u handfome daughter , might have
" done this by way of bribery, told
- him fmartly , that though fhc
?wcre poor, *yet flis was honeft,
Of It alt 1}
"and that (he fcorncd to go by
<l one corruption to another. The
" honeftfervant civilly replyed, that
"he underftcod not her words : nor
"I your deeds, (aid (he, I asked
tc the Cardinal 5 Crowns, he grant-
ed me my requeft, and why
Ct then do you offer me 50 Crowns?
w The honefl fervant to fhew his
tc innocency, (hews hismaflers hand
Cl writing importing 50 Crowns.
- i Then .your mailers hand, faid
" (lie , for halt , out (hot his in-
dentions : I asked him for five
" Crowns and more , in confetence
<c I cannot take. The' fervant,
- c though he knew his matters ge-
" nerofity , yet to take all fcruple
"from the poor woman, locked up
"his money and papers, and de-
<c fired the poor woman to go up
"with him to the Cardinal again
• c to clear this doubt. - The Car'
u dlnal hearing from this fervant
M the whole pa(Tagc, and that the
- c poor woman was affraid his hand
- c had been mifiaken in writing
" 50 Crowns inftead of 5 •> 'tis true,
^'faid he* my . hand was N mifti-
kca
Remedies
for evils
of the
mini.
Ofymttn-
duas a-
pud Hero
dot*
Publicly
Libraries
14 The Voyage
- ken indeed > and calling for his
" pen again as if he would have
<; corrected the cypher which made
" the bill 50, he put in an other
"cypher, and Co made it 500
" Crowns > reading it nowraloud
tC to his fervant and the poor
" woman i commanding hertobe-
" ftow her daughter with that
"moneys and ifk were not enough,
- to come again t©him, and he
W would make it up. Ktrue Roman
" Charity.
As for thofe Charities which
concern the mind, if a great King
of Egypt wrote over his Library
door, Medicina Animi ,) FbjjicJ^
for the mind, here in Rome I rind
ftore of fuch Phyfick in Libraries,
■ Colledges, Monasteries, and devout
companies* And hrft for Libraries j
yoH (hall rind here(beiide the Li-
braries of every religious houfe ) the
incomparable Library of the Vatican
( of which more below ) thofe alfo
of Cardinal Barberin j of the T>nke
of Altemps > that of the Sapienza i
sjid that of the Augujiins \ the laft
two being open to all men every
day
Of Italy . 15
day, with a courteous Gentleman
to reach you any book, and a
learned Manufcript in Folh addref-
llng you to the authors that treat of
any fubjecl: you defire to be inform-
ed of, which affords great help to the
painful ftudent. Then the Colledges coUedw,
and Seminaries of almoft all nations
where youths are both fed and bred
up in learning for nothing.
Add to this the variety of Mo-
nasteries and Convents, both of men Msttaffe-
and women, where they may hide ries,
themfelves fecurely d»»ec tranjeat i-
niquitas. ■
Then the taking away of young mufes
girls , at ten or twelve years old J'«r young
from their poor fufpe&ed mothers , G,rls *
8c the bringing them up vertuoufly
under careful matrons of known
Vertue, till they either choofe the
Nuptial flammeum, or the facred
Velum.
Then the Remedies for ill mar- Remedies
tied women, whofe unadvifed/ 0f ia
choice (marriages being often made J^^f
for intereft) or incompatible hu-
mors force to a corporal feparationi
and Ieli fuch unfortunate women
fhould
i5
Thi Voyage
Should cither live incontinently
indeed, or give fufpicion of it, they
are provided here with a houfc
where they live retiredly under Lot
A.
m
and Key, till they either reconcile
themfelves again to their husbands;
or upon juft occafions, leave them
for ever. Over the door of this houfe
is written. Per le dome mat mari-
tate,
the C6H- Then the Convent of Penitent
vent of whores ( that none may perifh in
ftunttits- fo me who have a mind to be faved)
called Santta Mtria Magdalen* in
Gorfo; where many of thofe poor
Magdalen? have led fuch peniten-
tial lives ( as the bloody walls of
their Celles , caufed by their fre-
quent difciplining , (hewed to all
Rome in a conflagration of that
monaftery ) that Pattlus Quirtus
himfelf being informed of it, would
needs be carried thither, to fee
thofe bloody chambers from the
ftreet, and having feen them, wept
for joy* and I can fcarce hold
from crying out: felhc cut-
fa
What (hall I fay of the Cengrt-
Of Italy 17
gttgmon of Advocates and Attomies, cUntj of
iuitituted in Keme.whtxe they meetf*^'^
once a week to examine poormens
law fuites ■, and either dehort them
from proceeding inbadeaufes, or
profeaue good caufcs for them at
the coft of this Congregation ?
What (hall I fay of feveral pious
Clergy men ( efpecially the good Brokf**
Priejh of the Oratory, happy in/jj^
this employment) who make it their- '
task to reconcile difagreeing fa-
milies , and with great zeal and
piety exhort firft the one, then the
other of the parties, intervene be-
tween them, (peak well of the one
to the other , clear and take away
jealous mifonderftandings, and in
fine, piece again broken neigh-
bors?
What (hall I fay of the four Ser-
mons daily in the Chiefa nova by Tour f*r-
the molt learned and good priefl of W0M "%-
the Oratory, who being moft of them lj , tn one
learned men as Baro^im , Bofms ,£„„,,.
Juftinianus, Kenaldus &c. and able
to flye high, yet in their fermons
(loop to a low pitch, and a popular
facile way, which aims rather at
convcrfion,
i8
The Voyage
Weekly
j'ertnons
to the
JelJOS.
converfion, than oftentatiom and
doth great good; though it make
little noifc i Vominus in lent aura.
What (hall I fay of the weekjiy
ftrmon to the Jews upon Saturday i
where they arc bound to be prefent
to the the number of three hundred,
where the Pop entertains a learned
Treacher to convince- them out of
their own fcripturesi and thofe
that are converted are provided for
in the Hojpital of the Catechumens,
till they be throughly inftrudfed «*
I have feen divers of them bapti-
zed.
I What ^hall I fay of the Schofe
2b$(oh~Upi* i n Rome , a company of good.
Religious men, who look like
Jefmtes, fave only that they go bare-
foot in fandals ? Thefe good Fathers
make a profeflion to teach poor
bojes gratis their firft grammar ru-
diments , and to make them fit to
be fent to the Jefuits Schools j and
having taught them thus in the
Schools jhzy accompany them home
in the jlreets , left they mould
cither learn waggery as they go
home,
Tim.
Of Italt 19
home , or practice it. Nay thcfe
humble men make it their profefc
fion not to teach higher Schools ,
where there might be fome profit
and honour, at leaft forne fatisfadi-
on and pkafure : but they content
themfelves to go bare foot, and
teach only the lomr Schoels and
firft rudiments '•» by which they
neither grow wifer, nor richer : A
ftrange mortified trades But Beati
panares {piritx.
What (hall I fay of the Fathers *j^*?
ef the Agonizants, whofc vocation t be Ago-
is, to be the Seconds of thofe who nkants
fight againfl death it felf > that is,
wnofe profefSon is, to affirt thofe
that are in the Agonie of death » and
to help them to make then thofe
pious Atts, which Chrifiiaus mould
moft of all then rouze themfelves
up to ?
What can be faid more ? yes
Rome not content, to have fed, to
have bred, to have converted, bap-
tized, reconciled the livings and
aflifted the dyings (he extends her
charity even beyond death it felf,
and hath inftituted a pious Confra-
ternity
20- The Voyage
Mom. Mjrtl > whofe office is to bury the
dead, and to vifit thofe that are
condemned, and by praying with
them, exhorting them, and accom-
panying them to the execution ,
help them to die penitently, and
bury them being dead, and pray
for , their fouls being buried ; After
which, charity can do no more to
man, and therefore I will conclude,.
that feeing fuch lingular ads of cha-
rity, both for body and mind, arc
praftifed no where fo much as ki
Rome, its true which J -a/Turned
above , that Rome deferves to be
called, the H>lj.
Having faid thus much of the
title of Rome, I will now make my
Reader better acquainted with her,
by defcribing the particularities
which I obferved here. And that
I may not ramble in writing of
Rome, as molt men do in vifiting
of it, I 'will begin at the Bridge cal-
led now fonte Angeh, and from
thence take the whole gyro of the
City in order.
Arriving then at the Bridge caHed
anciently .
Ptnte
Of 'It a lt at
anciently Tons Mitts becaufe it was
built by the Emperor Mint Adri-
anti, but now called Tonte Angelo
becaufe it was upon this Bridge that
S. Gregory the Great Taw an Angel
upon the Motet Adriani (heathing
his fword after z great plague :'here
we faw the iiately new decoration
of Iron work with the twelve
Marble fiatues let upon it by this
prefent Tope Ckment the IX. and
looking down into the river on the
left hand, we faw the mines of
the 'triumphal Bridge.
This bridge was called the Tri- rhf r ^
umphal Bridge , becaufe over it , vmf hal
Triumphs were accuftomed to pafs Bridge.
anciently to the Capitol. This made
it fo proud, that itfeomed that any
ruilicks, or country fellows, fhould
pafs over it > and got a Decree if
the Senate for that purpofe- But
pride will have a falli and the
proud Triumphal Bridge hath got
fuch a great one, that there's but
juft fo much of it lefr, as to fliew,
w T here it was once i fo true is the
faying of Aufmus,
Mjrt etiam Saxis nminibuscut veriiu
At
22
The Voyage
At firft the Romans were modeft
enough in their Triumphs, as in all
other things : hence Camillus was
content with four white horjes in his
Chariot i but afterwards luxe and
excefs baniftiing out of the City
old modefty, they began to ftrivc
who mould be the inoft vain in
this point. Hence Tompey was
Vanity in drawn in triumph i by four Ele-
triumphs, phants > MarJ^- Antony , by four m
Lyons; New by four Hermopbro*
dim , which were all four both
horfes and mares : Heliogabulus
hy four lygers '•> Aurelianus by fix'
ftagj > and Firmicus by eight Of-
triches*
At the end of Tontt Angela Hands
the 'Cafiel Angelo, fo called becaufe,
as I faid before, S. Gregory in a
folema Troceflion during the plague
faw an Angel upon the top of
Moles Adriani fheathing his Sword,
to ilgnify) that God's anger was
\appeafed. Before this Miracle hap-
pened, it was called Moles Adriani
becaufe the Emperor Adrian was
buried here. It was built anciently
in a round form of vaft fiones,
going
Cafiel
dngelo.
Of Italy 23
going up in three rows, or flories
lefTer and kfler, till you came to
the top j where flood mounted that
great pine-apple ofbrafs guilt, which
we fee now in the garden of Bel-
vedere. Round about it were fet in
the wall great marble Y hilars T and
round about the feveral flories flood
a world of Statues. This Moles be-
ing found a flrong place, Belli/arm
put men into it to defend it againft
. ihe Gothes&nd they defended them-
felves in it a great while, by break-
ing the Stames in pieces and throw-
ing them upon the heads of the
Gotbes that befieged them. Since
that time diverfc Topes have turn-
ed it into a formal Gaftle. Boniface
the VIII, Alexander the VI, and
Vrban the VIII, have rendered it a
regular Cajtle, with five flrong
bajlions, flore of good Cannons, and
a conftant garifon maintained in it.
From this Caftle I faw divers
times thefe -Fortifications i and be-
low divers great pieces of Artillery
made of the brafs taken out of the
? anthems and they (hewed us one
great Cannon which was made of
the
Tbi long
C$rridor
from the
Pallaee
to the
CaflU,
24 The Voyagi
the brazen naiks only that nailed
that brafs to the walls of the Pan-
theon \ the length and form of thofe
nails, is feen upon that Cannon,
to (hew unto pofterity how great
they were, with thefe words
upon iti ex cUvis trabialibus Portions
Agripp*. In this Caftle are kept
prif oners of ft ate; the $ millions laid
up there by Sixtus ^uintusi the
Tofts rich triple Crowns called
Regni, and the chief Regifters of
the Roman Church, From the top
alfo of this Caftle you fee diftin&ly
the long Corridor, or Gallery, which
runs from the Popes Pallaee of the
Vatican to this Caftle, for the Popes
ufein time of danger. It was made
by Pope Alexander the VI. and
ufed by Clement the VII. who by it
got fafe into the Caftle from the
fury of the German Soldiers who
being many of them Luthtrau* ,
fwore they would eat a piece of the
Pope.
From hence entring into the
Borgo We went towards S. Peters
Church, and in the way fteptinto
the
Of Italy 25
tbc Church of the Carmelites called
Sunt a Maria Tranfpoxtitta , where in s * Ht *
a Chappei on the left hand as you **™_*
enter, are fecn two pillars of ftcney^,,^
enchafed in wood, to the which 5.
Peter and S. faul were tyed when
they were whipped before their
death , according to the Romans
cuftome. Here's alfo the head of S.
Bafil the Greek Father furnamed
the Great. Here's alfo a curious
picture of S. Barbara in the Vault ,
by Cavalier Gij'eppe*
Soingon from hence, we came
preiently to the Pallace oiCampeggz,
Co called becaufc it belonged to Car-
dinal Campeggi the Popes Legat in
England, to whom Henry the VIII
gave it. Heretofore it belonged to ^ f
the Englilh Embafladors, and was E»glifi
one of the belt in Rome, both for be- Emfaf*
ing near the Popes Pallace, and alfo.^*^ r,
for that it was well built by famous PaR * te *
Bramantt. It belongs now to Car-
dinal Colonna.
Over againfi; it ftands a little
Piazza^ with arhnc fountain, and
joining to it a little Church called,
Sam Jactmt Scoxza
£b
ScOKX.*
Cavalli, in CtfvaW.'
which
23
The Voyage
which, under an Altar on the right
hand, Ifawthe/r<we upon which
Abraham offered to facrihee his Son
IJaac and under another Altar on
the left hand, the jione upon which
our Saviour was placed when he
was prefented in the Temple. Both
thefe were brought,or fent to Kome,
by Helen mother of the Emperor Con-
ft antine the great.
Prefently after, you come to the
- 6»Pcr- Piazza of St. Peter , built round
- rc#o/t&* about with a noble Portico of free-
itone born up by four rowes of
ftately round Pillars, under which
not only the Procejfion upon Corpus
Chrifti day, rnarchethin the fhadci
but alio all people may go dry, and
out of the Sun in Summer, , or
Winter', unto Si. Peters Churchy ot
the Vatican Vallate, This Portico is
built in an oval form, and fetcheth
in the great Piazza, which is be-
fore . S. Peters Church, and there-
fore can be no lefsthan half a mile
in compafs. This noble ftru&ure
was begun by Alexander the VII ,
and half of it rinifhed, and the other
/ialf is now almoft tiniuied. I never
faw
•fs.v*
Mr
Of Italt 27
faw any thing more ftately tharn
this. The number of the pillars and
of the ftatues on the top, I do not
juftly remember. In the mid ft of this 27* grt(m
Piazza ftands the ramo'us Guglia i Gugli*
which was brought out of JEgypt in H ore &•
the time of the old Rom*ns\ and Pettrs '
dedicated to Augujlus Cxfar and
liherius, as the words upon it im-
port. It lay hid long in Neros Circus,
which was there where now tf. Pl-
iers Sacrijiy is\ and at- la ft Sixtuf
Qu'intns having propofed great re-
wards to him that would venture to
fet it up here without breaking, it
was happily undcrtaken,by DotninU*
Fmtana* rare Architect rfComo\ind
Co placed as you fee it now. Th©
manner of bringing it out of Mgypt*
and of erecting it here are both
painted in FreJ'co upon the Walls of
the Vatican Library : This Ggfra is
all of one ftone except the bafis; and
it hath no Hkroglyfbej upon it. The
ftone is a Granite, or fpzekjed Mar-
ble, which together with its tafisjs a
hundred and eight foot high. It relts
upon four lyqns of brafs guilt •> and
at the'topjbf.it is planted fcrb'ftofi
B b ft braft
«s
The Voyage
aie foMtt
fains.
I
ii
braft mounted upon three moun-
tains with a ftar over thtmCthe arms
of SlxiuT Quintus whofe name was
Montalto. ) Within the Crofs is a
piece of the Holy Crofs • of our
Saviour , included here by Sixtus
Qu'mhs. The whole Gugliti is faid
to weigh 956 Impound weight. I
wonder what fcales they had to
weigh it with.
On each fide of this Guglia is to
ftand fair fountains , one whereof
is that which is fecn there iiowj
which throweth up fuch a quantity
of water, that it maketh a milt
alwaics about it, and oftentimes a'
a rainbow when the Sun {hikes ob-
liquely upon it.
This Piazza is capable of two
hundred thoufand men , and de-
livers you up to the Stairs which
lead you up to the Church ot S.Feter.
Setters. Coming therefore near to St.
Tctcrf Church, I was glad to Lc
that noble ftruclrurft, where great-
nefs, and neatnefs, bulk and beauty,
are fo mingled together that its
neither neat only , like a fpruce
gallery i nor vafi only, like a great
hall j
tht
Or Italy 29
.hallj bur its rather like a proper
man, and yet well proportioned.
You mount up to this Church by an the
eafieafcent or" four and twenty fieps M»rHt'.
of marble ftairs, as long as the (ton- fit* "P *'
tifpice of the Church is wide ■■> theft c j }>
ftairs were thofeof the old Church
of S. Vcter •, and Bnonlns obferves
that when the Emperor Cbarle-
tnsgne mounted up thofe ftairs fnft, a J°.
he. kilTe.d every ftep as he went
up.
Thefe ftairs lead you up to ^ c The . frtf
Frontifpice of the Church, which fiftieth
hath five doresinit letting you in to
the Porch > and thefe dores are
cheeked with vaft round pillar s of
freeftone «m f«»* ; ~ +*»»v*<*i an £
«ighty fix in heighth. Over thefc
pillars runs the architrave, and^
over it the Lodge or great Balconc ,
where the Pope is crowned , and
where he gives his Benediction upon
Eafterday. Over this Lodge runs
a continual Balufter or row of rails,
upon which (land thirteen vaft fta~
rues of our Saviour and his Apoftks
cut inftone.
Entringinto the Porch, you will rhtPor&
Bb3 admire
•dmire the length, breadth, and
"Wgf&ofir. For the length of it, its
two hundred eighty nine foot, the
breadth forty four foot: theheight,a
hundred thirty three foot.Its adorn-
ed on both fides with great marble
pillars , and a curious guilt roofe.
In fine, this Torch any where elfc
would be a handfbme Church.
Over againft the five doors of this
"Porch , ftand the five doors of the
Church* one whereof is called, the
Porta SanUa , and only open in
the Jubily yeanthc others are dayly
open j and the two principal doors
arc called, Valv* s*"8i Petri, and
are covered with brafc by the
,w ~~* — ~. J , " f ^nvmrn the IV. whofc
memorable actions, to wit th«
crowning of the Emperor $igifmond,
& the reunion of the Greek Church
with the Latin, are exprcfled in
them. Thefe Valve are thirteen foot
wide, and forty five high i and to
them all Popes Bulls are nailed at
their publication!
•ftb,\ •'; .Entring into the Church, I found
, Uurck\/rt to be built in Crofs wife j con-
•
ne the ftatues of
feveral moral. virtues. Thefe pillars
are a hundred and five foot in com-
paffe, and diftant forty foot one
from another. On that fide of them
wpich looks towards the body of
the Church j. they are to be over-
cruftcd with white marble,with two
rows of niches in- them for great
B b ^ ftatues
92 T ** E Voyage
ftatues of brafs guilt. The other
fides of theft pillars are already a-
dorned with a neat overcrufling of
a reddifli marble befet with the
heads of the primitive martyred
Popes, held up by two Angels, and
with the pigeon or Innocent the X,
( who made this decoration ) and
all thefe are in mezzo ril'itm , and
of pure white Alabailer. Behind
thefe pillars is a large He, or paf-
tage, and behind that He imme-
diately, Hand fair ,Chappels, which
flanck up this -Church notably, and
each Chappel is graced with a little
Cupola of its own.
, ; : \n the midil of the Crofs building
of tl\is Church is mounted the great
Cupch.-fSyhioh looks like a great
'crown -wherewith this Queen of
Churches is crowned. It refts upon
four Filajhi or great pillars which
make the corners of the Crois of
this Church, and from them it
iifcth into fuch a high Vault, that
it fetms to walk' into Heaven. Its
full as round as the Pantheon in
Kome^ that is, it carrieth the com.-
paf*
Of Fr At* $3
pafs of an hundred and feventy
paces, as you may eafily mcafure
upon the circle of white marble iia
the pavement which environeth
the Altar of S; Peter, and is made
there on purpole perpendicularly
under the Cupola to the w itsgreat-
nefs. The inlide of this Cupola is
curiouily painted with pi&uresin
Mofaick work reprefenting a Hea-
ven: indeed nothing but Heaven it
fclf can be finer or higher.So that I
may fay truly to Rome with Rut-llius,
Non procul a cxlo per iua Tcmp'a*
fumus.
In a word this Cupola is the boldeft
piece of Architecture that perhaps
the world hathicen i and it was the
laft and greateft work of Sixtur
§>uiMur his purfe.
The four PUaftri upon which this
Cupola refteth, are vafr fquare Pil- fbefo'ur
his, a hundred and twenty foot in Z reat **
compafs , and capable of fuiis ** r
' within them, and large Sacrifices
above, for the holy reheks tha.t are
kept in themy to wit the Volto-
Santo or print of our Saviours face,
which he impriuted. in. the hand—
B b 5 Ijtftfchcsr
I
54 T HE VoTAGI
kcrcher of S. Veronici: The piece
"ot the Holy Crofsi the top of the
lance wherewith our Saviours fide
was pierced : and the head of St.
Andrew the Apoftle tranflated hi-
ther into his brothers Church by
Tins Seetmdm. Hence in thefe great
pillars, arc cut Niches and in them
placed four vaft flatues of white
marble. Under theRelick of the
Velio Santo Hands the ftatue of the
Veronica- under the piece of the Holy
Crofs, the iiatue of S. Helen. Under
the top of the lance, the Statue of
Lmginns : under the head of S. Art'
drew, the itatue of S. A?idnw»
Thcfeftatuesare of Cdrjfean great-
ntfs, and made by matters as great
as thcmfelves..
In the midft of the Crofs of this
Church, and perpendicularly under
the very Cupola , ftands the High
Altar of this Church. This Altar
may well be called, the High Altar
( Altare quafi alta ara ) or the
Altare majus-, being the ncbleft Al-
JbtTomb tar in the world, both for matter
«/S.P«- and form. The Altar it felf ftands
Uu ' over the Tomb of & Peter, half of
whole.
•Hit Tligh
Altar,
Of Italt 55
whole body, together with half of
S. Pafth, lyes buryed here > and
the other half of their bodies in
S Pauls Church. Over this Altar
four /lately pillars of brafs hear up
a Canopy of the fame mettal,
wrought about the edge like a Ca-
nopy indeed, with Valances and a
guilt fringe, yet all of brafs.Over the
corners of this Canopy ftand' four
great Angels of brafs guilt, and in
the midit of it is mounted high
a round ball of brafs guilt and a
fairCrofs upon it of the fame met-
.tal.
Thefe four pillars are as &reat in , r
compafs ( 1 (peak by experience hra j- s pilL
having taken the meafure of them u r s of \
upon their model J as three ordi- the Altar*
nary men are thick* Their form is
ferpentine , wreathed about with
Vine trees and leaves i but all of
brafs i as alfo adorned with little:
Angels of brals clambering up thofe.
leaves and branches, and with Bee*
here and there alfo, relating tQ.
Pope Vtbuns arms, who made them..
Thefe pillars are fifty foot high.
&om the ground.Every one of them
weighctk
I
Jt Vara-
hf.c.Z,
iheCtn-
tun*
$6 T»* VOTAOI
wcigheth five and twenty thoufand
pound wcight^and all of them toge-
ther make this Altar, the Altar
antonomaftically, as this Church is
the Church of the world.So that if
the Climax be trueCas true it is)that
Churchfs are for Altars, Altars for
Priefts, Priefts for God , I know
no religion which payeth fuch ho-
norable tributes of worfhip to God,
as the Roman Catholick religion
doth,which hath the nobleft Church
the nobleft Altar, the nobleft Prieft,
the nobleft facririce & all this to the
nobleft God j Vms Veorum Vem'inm.
Hence the Pope may fay with Sa-
lomon '. Vctnus attain adificare eupio
magna ejt , magnas cli enim ~Domi-
rms nojitr Juper otnnes Decs.
Behind this Altar (not in refpect
of him that comes into the Church
by the great dore, but in refpedt of
him that itands at the Altar jftands
the ConfetTion ofS. ?e>er\ Co called
becaufe that in the primitive times
the place where the bodies of Saints
and Martyrs were kept , was called
Couttflio, and in tiu Greek Church,
MartjrinrH* tor in ancient writers
the
r>
Or 1 TALT 57
the word Confejfor was taken often
for a martyr, who had confeffed
Chrift Co farre as even to die for
him : fo that martyrs were fome-
times called Confers , and Con-
fejfors Martyrs , though they did
not actually die in torments i> as you
may fee plainly in the Annotations*
of learned Famelw upon Tertul-
lians book ad Martyrts. Now,
this place becaufc it conferves the
body (at leaft, half of the fady) of
S. Peter* is called, the Cwfeflion of
Peter. As for this Cmfjfion 5 its
made like a hollow cave open above,
and railed about with Uw railes, fo
that the people kneeling , may
look down to the iron door and
grate, behind which the 1ov>b of
S. Peter Hands under the Altar :
for thefe railes fetch in a demi-
circle from one corner of the Altar
to the other. There are alfo a dou-
ble pair of open flairs , of fome
twelve 1bps a piece, for thofe to
defcend by who officiate, and there
ate two little half drrs which let
theraia to thole [hires. Andlcon-
ccive>
fhe Li-
tnina
Jpoftalo-
rum.
II
Cubic fi-
bril S,
Pttri.
Yii.
Anaftaf.
Rikiotb.
in Max-
5§ T HE VoTAGE
ceive at the bottom of thefe little
doors-, the Limina- Apoftolorum to
be. For though I know its gene-
rally, held, that to vifit the Lt'mina
Apqftolorum C which Bijhips by the
Cannon law are obliged untoj is to
vifit S. Peter Church h and that
divers learned Authours think the
Limina Apojiolortim , to be the
very Jhps of the entrance of the
great door of the Church i yet lam
of opinion , that thefe little half
doors, and the fteps about the Altar
are moit properly the Limina dptf-
tolorum, becaufe I found thefe very
words written in golden letters in the
bottom of the like little doirr which
ftand about the Hgh Altar in S.
Pauls Church, where the other half
of the bodyes of S, Tver and S.
Prf«/are intombed.
Hound about this Church ftand
Jjde Cbappel/, fbrne fix and twenty
in all, called anciently Cuhicula, and
thofe whom we call Chaplains, were
anciently called Cubicularii : hence
the title of Cubicularitts S . Pttr'u
Now thefe CbappeU have, for the
sioft
O f Italt.
59
moft parr,, fome- remarkable thing Pj»//V.
in them. In one of them, is al waves /^'j?- 12,
referved the B. Sacrament for the a * ivtr '
dayly ufe of Pilgrims that defire to
communicate in S- Peters Church,
and other devout people. In that of J G J r £'
S. Gregory Nazianzm , is the au^ tMS
body of that Saint tranilatcd hither tomb.
out of the Church of the Nuns of
Carnpo Marzo. In the Chappel of
the Canon?, rtpofeth the body of s ' chrt ~
S. Chryfojiome. In the Chappel -J^ 3 ™
called he Clementina , repofeth
the body of S. Gregory the gre.t,
who being Pope of Rome & moved S. Gre-
by Godly inftindion fas hhn Siete& 0Yles
faithj fent Auguftin , Iujhis , Me- tm
i/fw,and other Monks living in the
fear of God, to convert the Angles, saw in
or Englifh to the faith of Chrift \ his clm-
and therefore I took particular n»~ n ' cles *»
rice often of his tomb, as being?'"-'
( as Venerable Bede calls him J our
Apoftle. In a Chappel at the very
further end of the Church, is fet up
the Chair of 5". Peter h held up by The
four Doctors of the Church, all cart chair °f ,
in brafTe in a ftately pofture. s, *' ur ~
This Chair is of wood, but much
fecnt "L
Tiie Cheif
Same
lambtu
40 The VarAsE
fpent with old age i and therefore
Pope Alexander the VII, caufcd it
to be fet up here and enchafcd cu-
rioully, to preferve it. I once faw
it near at hand, being expofed to
publick view in the middle of the
Church, upon the FCaft day of S.
Peters Chair in Rome. In an other
Chappel,is the Crucifix made three
hundred years ago by rare Pietr»
Cavalin.'. In an other Chappel,
you fee cut in white marble the hif-
tory of 5. Leo's meeting Attila out of
Kome , and his deturning him from
coming any nearer to the City.
As for the Reiicks and bodies of
Saints which are in this Church,
befides thole mentioned already,
, there are the bodies of SS. Simon
and lade, of S. Petronilla, of SS,
Ffocejjits and Mirtinixnm ,> of ten
firii Popes after S. Peter > with a
world of other precious Relicks kept
in the Sacrifty.
As for the Tombes which are in
this Church above ground, they are
thefe. That of Sjxjtm IV. oiPaulus
III i oiVrban the VIII j oflw
the XI, of Innocent the VIII >, of
Gregory
Ofitalt 41
Gregory the XIII •, oilnnoccnt the X •>
and lattly that of the Counteffe
Matilda the onely fecular perfon
that I find to have a Tomb in this
Charch above ground. Indeed fhede-
ferves well to lye in S. Peters Church
who deferved to be called S> Titers
'daughcer,and me deferved this fur-
name, for having defended the
Church lb gallantly in its greateft
«onfli<ft againft Henry the IV Emp.
and having endowed it with a good
part of its Patrimony. Her body was
tranflatcd from Mantua hither in
the year 165$. by the command of
VoptVrban the VIII.
Near the Confeffion of £. Tear*,
it an old Kr«7«n ftatue of 5. Peter
fitting, with his hand up as giving
hisblefling* and holding his right
foot a little out, to be kilTed. At
rirft, fomc wonder to fee devout
people flocking thither, and luffing
the foot of that, flatue, and.put-
ing their heads under that foot
I when they have done i but when
they are well informed, that all
this is done onely to teftify, that
they fubmit themfelvcs to the au-
thority
Somt
Tritne
li&ftrcs.
42 TBI VoilGI ■
thority which was given by our
Savior, to S. Peter^nd his fucceflbrs,
thty reft fatislied.
Over the holy water pot on the
left hand as you enter into tho
Church is flcn fattened to the wall,
am old inlcription upon a fcuar flone,
importing, that that was the, very
ftone upon which the bodies of S.
Peter and S. Paul were divided,
when half of their bodies was hur-
ried here and the other half in S.
Van's Church, by £. Silvefter.
As for the ptime pictures that are
in this Church > they are thefe : that
of S. Michel in Molaick work if
of the defignc of Cavalier Ciofeppe:
as alfo the defig" of the Mofsic}^
work in the Cupola. That of 5. hbn
Evangelift, and S. Lu^ejuft under
the Cupola are of the hand of Gio-
vaunide Vecbi. The picture where
$. Peter cures the lame man, is of
the hand of Ludovieo da. Civoli. That
of the fall of Simon Magus is of
the hand Vanni of Siena. That
where S. Peteris painted with An-
nanias dead before him, is of the
hand of Cavalier Rancallu That of
the
C? Italy 43
the Altar of S. Gregory, is of the
hand of Andrea Saceo Romsno. That
of the creation of the world, is of
Tietro Bcrettino de Ccrtona* That of
Medic* fidci, is of the hand of Lan-
franco.
Having thus feen the Church I Tht c
went to fee the Sacrifty of this cri/*of
Church where by exprcfle leave s,t*ur.
from the Msnfignor^ who hath the
thief care, as well as the Keys ofit,
Lfaw the Holy Relicks, and neat
Church plate belonging to this
Church. The Relicks are many, and
richly enchafed in gold and filvcr.
The Church plate is both plenti-
ful, aud of great value, as many
chalices of pure gold fet with jewels,
huge filver Candldtiks with a Cru-
cirixof the fame as heavy as a man
can lift, with a world of other fuch
like plate. But that which pleafed _
me moft here, was the ancient Pic-
ture of S. Peter and S. Paul, which
faint Silvefter (hewed to Conjlantin Ja ^
rhe Great to confirm the truth of c * n *"'
his Villon. The Picture is very old, Ptihm.
yet the faces are perceivable^ and
that
The Grot
under S.
Peters
Church.
44 The Votaoe
that is all. Its fct in a frame of filvcr.
Thehiftory of it is both long and
juiown:& if any man be ignorant of
it, kt him read it in Bironius. There
is-alfo in the (aid Sacrirty an other
pi&ure nailed high upon the wall,
which was made byN. Carpi with
his fingers initead of a pencil.
Being now in the Sacrifty, I
gqt lieve to go down into the
Grot under this phurch, with
a practical Clericus with a lighted
torch to ihew me and explicate
unto me the mod confidcrable
things that are there : as the
tomb of S. Peter with an Altar
over it 5 at which any Bifliop or prieft
may fay Mafs : a world of ancient
ilatues (fet- in the low Chappels 5 3nd
in the wall of this Grot ) which
belonged to the old Church of S.
feter y and mewing the antiquity of
pictures in Churches : the Tomb of
the moft honourable Churchman of
our nation , Pope Adrian the IV,
the onely Englifla Pope that ever
'was: the tomb of the Emperour
'nngli'lh' Q^ 0Q l ^ e ft con d> m a S reat porphiry
0«n... flirine : the Tombes of divers other
Jdti
the II
O f It a lj 4<j
great Popes and Cardinals: and in
tine, the tombeftone of Charlotte of
LuzignaniQuecnotJerHfahm, Cy-
prus, and Armenia, who having
been driven out of her Kiugdome
by her bauard brother , came to
- Kotnein Sixtus Quartus his time,
and there dyed. She transferred be-
fore her death, her right to the
kingdomc of Cyprus, to the Duke of
I Savoy her brother in law > which
makes that Duke give a clofe crown
ever his armes , and be (tiled by
hisfubjects, Aluzz* Real, Royal
highnefs. S.Fturi
Having thusfeen thisChurch both £**£*
within and underground, I was de-
firous to fee it alfo above. Afcending
therefore by a fair ftaircafe I arriv-
ed at the great terrafs over the
Lodge, and there faw the thirteen
futures of our Saviour & the twelve
AponMes near hand , which fecna
below little taller than the ftatue
of our tailed: men, and yet here
above are eighteen foot high. There
alfo I faw the feveral little Cupolas,
which give light to the fide ciuppcls
of this Church, and look like the
ijjke
&fi The Votaoi /.
iifueand fpawn of the Great Cu-
pola.Then mounting a little higher,
I beheld a rare fabrick of the
mother Cupola, both within and
without. The (iaires to mount up
into it: the double vault in it, and
ftairs between the two vaults : the
lantern upon the Cupola : the nar-
row ftairs in one of the pillars of that
Lantern up to the ball : la/lJy the
ftraight neck of the paflage into the
Ball, and the Ball it felf, are all
Vbevouni wor ^h particular obfervation, as be-
ing the height of Architecture. The
Ball it Cclf of brafs guilt is capable
of thirty men, though from below it
lookes oncly as big as twice a mans
head. We were eight in it at once i
and I am fure we could have placed
thrice as many more. Upon the
round Ball is mounted a great Crofs
of iron guilt to fignifie , that the
Vcrtueofthe Croft by our Saviours
paffion, hath triumphed over the
world, of which this round Ball is
the exprefs emblem. From this Cu-
pola we had a perfect view of Rome
under us, and of all the Villas about
it. But nothing was fo wonderful, as
t»
Sail c a
fabh of
30 r.icn
O f Italt 47
Co fee S. Peters Church and Pdllace,
look like a town under us, which
we knew to be but one Church and
houfe. p rM jf e e f
You will wonder perchance too, s. Peters,
when you (hall hear that this church. -
Church is the eight wonder.of the.
world, that the Pyramids of Egypt y
the walls of Babylon, the Fbaros,
Celnffus, &c were but heaps of itones
compared to this fabrick : that it.
hath put all antiquity to the blufh,
and all poftcrity to a Non plus : that
its feveral parts are all incompa-
rable Maiter-peices : its pi&urcs all
originals :its (ratues perfect models :
That it hath a revenue of above
twenty thoufand pounds a year
onely for the fabrick : -that it hath
.coft till the year i6$4, ( The 9 J£'£
accounts being then fummed up ) s. Peters
Forty millions of cro wnes:that moft Church.
of the Popes lince Julius the II his
time( and they have been twenty
' three in all ) have heartened and
advanced this work : that the prime
Architects of the world, SangaUa,
Bramsnte , Baldajfcre , Buonarota ,"
GiaeoniQ dellv Porta 3 Giovani Ion-
tttu,
4$ The Voyag*
tana •> Carlo Maderno , and now
Cavallero Bemind, have brought it
on to this perfection: that the whole
Church it felf is nothing but the*
QuintcfTence of wit and wealth
fkained into a religious defign of
making a handfome houfe to God,
and of fulfilling, the divine oracle
which promifed > that magna tnt
£Z* 1 a « gl or i a dorms iflius neviffim* , pfaf-
quamprim£.
Going at laft out of this Church,
and fumming up in my thoughts all
the rarities I had feen in it, I be-
gan to think of Ammonias ( a holy
primitive Saint and afterwards
Moronius Bifhop in the Council of Sardis ) of
«».3P« whom its written, that coming to
Rome with S. Athanafus^ hede-
fired to fee nothing there but $.
fettrs Church , and knew not tha
way to any place elfe i I think, that
if this good mau had feen£. Veters
Church as it fs now, he would never
have cared for feing any thing elfe
in the world, and would even have
forgot his way home too.
Near to the Church of S. Peter
Hands the Vatican Palace , where
the
u.s.
The V»-
tican Pa-
laci.
O F I T AL T
4?
the Popes ufe to winter. To de-
fcribe it to you all at length, would
take me up too much time-, nor
indeed is it fit for me to dwell
there. I will therefore pafs through
it quickly, and rather point you out
whats to be feen there , than
paint you out in words what I faw
there.
i . From the Church of S. Pet*
you afcend into this Pallace by ari
eafy & Irately pair of flairs capable
often men a bred. Thefe flairs
render you up at the great Hall,
called Sola Regia, becaufe the Pope The Salt
rcceiveth here EmbafTadors of Kings *•'!'*•
in their Embaflies of ftate. It is
beautified with rare pictures in a
great volume: as that ofthcEmpc-
rour Frederic!^ killing the Popes
foot, of the hand ofGiofcppedelSal-
viati Garfagnino. That of the Ligne
in France : that ot'Colignil that of
the Pope condemning herefy : That
of the Pope returning from Avignon^
are all of the hand of Gtorgio Vof-
fari. That of the Emperour Charles
the Great tigning the Brief of the
donation, is of the hand lhaito
C g Zmcari
I
50 The Voyage
Zuccari : that of the battle of Le-
■panto with the picture of Faith at
the fide of it, is of the hand of Do-
nato Formello*
2. This great Hall ftands between
two Chappels, the Paulina and the
Sift a. In the Paulina is feen a rare
picTure of the crucifying ot S. Ycicr
by Michael Jngelo. The roof of it
alfo.was rarely painted by Fiaerio
Zuccari , but the fmoak of the
candles upen Manday Thurfday,
when this Chappel ferves for the
Sepulcher, hath Co defaced thefe
-pictures , that a farr worfe h:nl
would haveferved there.
3. The Chappel of Sifio is that in
- &« Vopes whichthe Pope holds. Capella upon
• ,a PP«i> cer t 3 ; n cJayes , and where all the
' Cirdjnals intervene. In the end of
this Chappel upon the wall, is paint-
ed the Jaft judgment by Michael
Angela ^ a piece famous over all
the world. The green garments of
S. Kithcrine and the head of S.
Bia7io are of the painting of Da?2Jd
of VJterra , who was prefintly fct
a work to make thole garments,
when the Pope had given exprefs
order..
Of It >ly 51
order, that this rar' picture fhou.ld
be defaced, becauft of fomenaked-
nefs in it. Upon ^reat dayes this
Chappel is hung with a rare fait of
hangings of the defign of Raphael
Vrbin wrought with gold and filk, v
containing the Ads of S. Peter and
S. Tanl.
4. Behinde this Chapel Hands "&« P«/«
the Popes Sacrifty '•> a place Icarce SM Vff*
known to Grangers, and therefore
feldomefeen by them , though very
well worth the feeing. Its kept
al waves by aPrelat 3 who isalwayes
an Auguftin Fryar , and a Biihop,
and called M-mfig?ior Sacrifba. la
authors of high times we rind men-
tion of this officer under the name
of Cimiliarcba , or chief Sacriftan*
Here I faw rare Church ornaments
for the Popes ufe.Thefe in particular
Icannotlet pjfs without mention-
ing, The cope of fiint Silvejler
Pope, thirteen hundred yearesago.
The neat Chafuble of cloth of tifllie
with the pi&ures of the mini(|ring
thefeaven Sacraments, all embroi-
deredinitin filk and gold 10 rare*
ly, that the late Lord Marflul of
C c 2 England
5 2
The V o yage
England Tbo. Earl of ArttndeL Got
leave to have it painted out, and Co
much the more willingly, beeaufe
it had been given to the Pope- by
King Henry the VIII a little be-
fore his Schifme.Then the incom-
parable fuits of ornaments for prieff,
Deacon, and Subdeacon, to be ufed
in high Mafs, which were given
by King Sebafiian of* ?ortHgal> and
fet all over with pearl, and thefe
pearles were the firit that came out
of the Indies, and were in all eight
hundred pound weight of pearl.
The other rare things here were the
3. L<*»- Head of S. Laurence, which I faw
r nue his ncar at hand, through a criftal :
apeiceof thefpunge, in which the
Jewes gave our. Saviour gall to
drink : the Camilla of S. Frifca a
primitive Saint martyred in it 1400
yeares ago : the Crucifix in which
is fet under a cryftal . a piece of
the Holy crofs carved with the
palfion of our Saviour in it: a thorn
of ou* Saviours crown of thornes,
which belonged to Tim Qu'mtus : a
crofs fet with Diamondsand Pearles,
which the Pop: wears at hi&b reit
m
Of Italt 55
'n grcatfunfticnsia great ringwhicli
he alfo weareth in Inch functions*
its &t with a fair Saphyr, and four
great pearles ; a fair Crucifix en-
amdd and befet with ftore of pearl
and Ieweis : the Popes Pallium
which he wears in great fund ions :
the filtula, or pipe of gold where'
with the Pope receives the confe-
crated blood of our Saviour in the
Chalice upon great dayes : the rare
Chalices of gold fet with pearl, and
yet more pretious for their work-
manftiip than for their matter :
the great Chalice of gold,into which
the Cardinals put their written
Votes in chufing the Pope by
fcrutiny : the five triple crownes
called Regni, four whereof are fet
thick with precious Hones and pearls
of great value, and therefore ordi-
narily kept in the Caftle Angelo :
two mitres of the fame richneis :thc
ehryital Pixe in which the blelTed
Sacrament is kept in the ScpulclKr
upon Manday Thurfday : in hue
the book of the Gofpels painted
in miniature by the famous Giufa
Glorio, for whofe firft pidturc here
Cc 3 C ofc
Gallery
fainted
by Ka-
54. T he Voyage
( of the laft Judgment ) Vaulus
Imitts Tent him fifteen hundred
piirols, as Monfighor Sacrijla affured
me.
5. Palling from hence through
the S.ila again, I was led into the
great room hard by , where
the Pope wafheth the feetof thir-
teen pilgrims upon Manday, Thurs-
day ■■> and then giveth euery one of
them a great meddalof gold with
four piftolsi and an other of ill—
ver.
6. Thence I was led into the
open gallery which looketh upon
the Court j Imean the fecond lodge,
( for there are three fuch open gal-
leries J where the hiltories of the
Bible are painted moft curioufly in
the roof of it by prime mailers.
That of Adam and the creation :
that where Adam lows : that where
the fheep drink : that where Jacib
law the ladder : that of the lalt
Supper of Chriii with his Apoltles:
that where M-fis (hews the^
Laws, are all of the hand of K ,2 -
fbael Vrbtn, That of the Deluge : &'
of
O f Italy 55
of the adoration of the golden calf
are of the hand of Raphael dul
Borgo. That where Joftti commands
the Sun to Hop : that of Berfabe,
and the like , are of the hand of
Ywnno del V^go. That of the
Chariot and fome others are of
the hand of Caravjgio. That of
Mofts- ftriking the rock i that of
the Judgment of 'Solomons and lome
others are'ofthe handof JulioRo-
rruno. That of the Baptifm of
Cbriji, with other fuch like, are of
the hand of Veflegrino da Modtna.
Yet btcaufc in all thefe pictures
Rapbatl Vrbin -'gave either the de-
fign, or fottae touches, this Gallery
is called Raphaels Gallery : indeed
nothing but the Divine hiitory itfelf
can be finer &than this painting of
Divine Raphael. And it belongs
only to Rome to have the Bible
fet out thus in its own colours :
and if pictures be the belt books
for iguorant people, who can fay
'that the Bible is kept from the
people here, feeing it's painted and
printed here in the molt vulgar
tongue, and known language, pic-
C c 4 tures?
tins butlt
'with
Jtfaxen~
tins,
56 TfiE VorAfiE
tures? In a word 'Raphaels colours
fecmed to me to illuttrate the text
very much, and to be an excellent
Comment upon the Holy fcripfure.
7. From this gallery I was led
into the great chamber , where
Conftantins Victory over Maxen-
tiui is fo rarely painted upon the
walls by Raphaels own hand j that
this painting ferves this chamber
not only for a rich Tapcftry > but
alio for an internal Trophee to that
Emperor. The feveral poliuret
here of men and hprfes , all in eon-
fufion, yet all in fuch due propor-
tion make this picture (in the
Tbt hc(i^^ mcnt °^ Monfieur foujfin a
defcne'd^ mms P ainter ) the rar « rt thin g
pitlure ' m tnc wor ^ for defign. In the other
in the following rooms there are divers
other rare pieces of the fame hand*
as that of Att'ila and Pope Lto:
that of S. Teter in prifon, a piece
much admired for the perfpeftive
of it : That of the B. Sacrament:
that of the burning of the Bor^o :
that of JEneas carrying his Father
Ancbifis out of the flames, are of
Raphaels hand. The hiftory of ffe-
liodoms
world.
O f Italy 57'
Heliodoms over the chimney, is of:
the hand of Julio Romano, R^baeh
fchollar. . ■ ,
8. Going up from hence into tne.
higheO open gallery, you'll find it
painted with Geographical maps ok
the hwd of Antonio da Varefe. The.
roof cf it is alfo well painted by.
Vomer ahc'io , Paris Romano, and
Bronzing excellent painters all ^
8. Then coming down, 1 law mmiiutt
the Sala Clamenttnaz noble room.
The rare perfpeftives in the roof^
and in one of the corners both of
them exprefling. the arms of Cit r
mm the VlU are worth your at-
tentive confideration.
lo. Then the divers chambers of
his holyncfs hung all with damask,
hanging in fummer , and velvet:
hangings in winter, are very neat.
In the Popes bedchamber I. law
the grave picture of our Lady with,
her (on in her arms, called.
Saint Mary Major, its painted,
curioully upon a white traniparent.
ftons three fingers thick, and yet, ,
(hewing the pidture on both fides itc
heldbeforethefun. $M
I ■
J ran
fitce of
prfpec-
ti.ve..
I
58 T he Voyage
1 1. The great room guilt over-
head , where the Pope treats at
dinner great Princes when they
cometo Rome.
12. Theold appartiment of Pwt
Quiniusw'iththe great wooden bed
orraiher the little wooden chamber
oi Fanlttf Quhitus .
1 3. The rare piece of perfpe&ive
over the door of the long room
leading to the gallery ofmaps.At the
iirft looking upon it, you fee la-
thing but certain types, or hgurcs
of the blefTed Sacrament out ot the
Old Teitarncnt, but being placed
diredtly under it, and looking up-
wards, you fee all the forefaid types
contracted into the form of a Ca-
lice and an hoft over it i to (hew,
that thole old types and fiiadows
prtrigured only the body and blood
of our Saviour in the holy facririce
of the Altar.
14. The long gallery of the maps
of Italy painted upon the walls on
ef'Mxps. b 0( h fcJes by p a nl H r BriUns a
Flamming and others j and that
fo diflindtly that you fee plainly
every State, Province, City, River,
vil-
Tbt rare
Gallery
Of Italy
59
Village,- Cattle* high way of Italy J .
and where any famous battle was!
fought either in the Romans t ime ,
or fmce : A Gallery which I wifh
I hadfpent as many hours in, as
I fpent dayes in going up to Rome, j
Divers other galleries there are
in this houfe which Ipafs over in
filence.
But I cannot pafs Over Co P*
' oftbe(
tne coiidavti.
the 'long Gallery leading to the JJ?~
Belvedere* m which is kept
Conclave of all Popes:, in this one
great room, fifty, or threescore,
Cardinals lodge and have every one
two Chambers, one for himfeltV
and the other for his Conclavilii.
Exungite Leonem, you; may judge
by this what the whole houfe is ;.
or elfe by this what they affure you,
when they tell you, that there are 5
thoufand chambers in that Palace.
1 5. From the middle of the forefaid the Vati^
gallery , you enter into the Vatican *** *»-
Library, famous all the learned brar 1"
wovld over, for having in it, betides
the Regiiters of the Roman Church
the choice ft manufenpts of the.
world in holy languages. This fri-
• rvniass
6q T^ 1 V°ta© e
ronn'ius found , who' drew from
hence notable fuccourfor the main-
taining this Ecclehaftical hiftory
againitthe Centuriators of Magdc-
bourg, who wanting thefe allured
aims, and being otherwise
wrongly biaiTcd, made faults in
their hiftory as many as their
Centuries, and as great as their
Volumes. The defcription of this
Library hath been made by learned
Anting Kocca in Latin , and by
Mutius Panfa in Italian : yet for
the fatiifa&ion of my curious coun-
trymen I fhall fay fomething of
it. Firft the room is a v-aft
long room fpreading itfelf in the
iurther end-, into two wings of
building, which are full of pref*
fcs where the manufenpts are kept
carefully from mice and rats 3 and
moiit weather. At the entrance into
this Library you are let into a
fair chamber full of desks for a
dozen of writers, who have good
ftipends to copy out books in
all languages-) andthey are hound
to be writing fo many hours in a
morning, Rgund about this room
hang
O F FALT
hang the pi&ures of all the Cardi-
nals that have been Bibliotbecarii
fince Sixtuf Qmntus his time. Then iy
entring into the Library itfelf, I Library
iaw the vaft wide room fupported u i ( H'
( like a Church ) by great fquare
pillars, about which areas many
cupbords where the Manufcriptsare
confer ved. On thewall on the right
hand, are painted in Frefco the Ge-
neral Councils of the Church, with
the Bible in the midft laying open
upon a ftately Throne, and with the
order and place of precedency oh-
ferved in them: as al Co fome notable
accidents in Ecclefialtical hiftory.
On the left hand are painted all
the famous Libraries anciently
mentioned by authors: and upon
the great pillars are painted the.rirft
Inventors & promoters of learning.
This long room fpreads it felf ac
laftinto two wings on each hand i
both which are full of curious
books, both manufcripts and Print-
ed books j divers of which were
mown me with great civility, by
Monfignor Holftenitu then keeper
of this Library whom I had for-
merly
Some
rare
boskji
here*
62 T he Voyage
merly known. The chief of thcfc
books were thefe.
Avail Hebrew Bible too heavy
for any man to lift up.
An ancient copy of the Septuagints
tranflatron in Greek, after which
the Bible hath been printed both in
Rome and London.
The Ads of the Apoftlcs in Greek
curioully written in Golden Letters.
The Gofpel written by S. ( bry~
foft orris own hand.
An Hebrew Bible written in iheets
of parchment parted to one another,
and rowled up : hence the word vj-
kimzn^iox. a book.
A little book writen in bark of
trees : hence the word Folium, for a
leaf in a book.
Certain old Roman Table books.
A China Tablebook of wood,
in which they wrote with a pointed
fteel.
A curious China book all in Hi-
eroglyphs , and folded up in many
folds : our Vurcbas in his curious
navigations hath both Printed and
deciphered it.
Volidor VirgiVs hiftory of England'
\vr»:tfen
O P 1 1 A L Y. £f
written with his own hand.
An old book of Sermons in Latin ,
in whofe margin St.Tbonut oiAquin
had made notes with his own
hand.
An old Virgil with the pidtures
of the hiftory in old painting.
An old Terence written twelve
hundred yeares ago, and the an-
cienteft that ever Poliiiaa faw, as
he teltifiefh under his own hand in
the infide of the cover of this
book.
EarottJtiw his annals in his own
hand writing.
The rare quotations out of the an-
cient Fathers, painfully and faith-
fully col !e died out of the belt copies,
by learned Cardinal Sir/e/o in the
time of the Council of "trcnt^ and
fent by him weekly , by the Poir,
from Rome-, to the Fathers in the
Council,who proceeded to their de-
finitions by the ancient tradition of
the Church, found fo plainly and
uuanimoufly in thofe Fathers. Thole
quotations make iix volumes in fo~
lio:and this was if , which our adver-
fa ries-
K
Henry the
VIII
Letters to
jtn Belen
Henry th
VII I
agaivft
Luther.
$h* Li-
brary of
the I)ttki
64 The Voyage
faryes call, the fending down of
the Holy Ghoft to Trent in a cloak-
bag •, when it was only the fending
down of thefe faithful testimonies
of the Tradition of the Church,,
gathered out of the moft ancient
and authentick copies.
The letters ot Henry the VIII of En-
gland to Ann B>len his miftrefs then,
in his own hand writing, fome in
Engli(h,fome in French,but all ama-
tory. It isealie to imagine them writ-
ten by him, if you compare the hand-
writing of thefe letters, withthole
two verfes written by the Kings
own hand in the frontifpice of the
following book, to wit.
The book which the faid Henry
1 wrote againft Martin Luther-, and
dedicated it by a couple of Latin
verfes written with his own handin
the Frontifpice of it, to Pope Le&
the tenth: which book purchafed
to King Henry the honorable title
of defender of the fai ft th.
Then I was (hewn the Library
of the Duke of Vrbin, who dying
without Heirs male bequeathed his
Library to the Vatican Library
here
OFlt A L T £*
here. In this, I Taw many rare
Rianufcripts written in parchment,
and painted in miniature : efpecially
that book in whofe margins are
painted by a rare hand, and won-
derful diligence, all the infeclrs in
nature, in their lively colours and
truerefemblance.
Over againft this Library, they
(hewed me, in the fame room, the #* l *-
Library of Heidelberg, fent to fame % e *%j?
by the Dake of Bavaria after he had fa-
clifpoflefled the Elector Frederick*
Prince Palatin of Rbene, of his coun-
try , as well afs of the Kingdom^ of
Bohemia which he had feized on,
at the inftigation of Betkelein
Cabor and others. See the Mereure
francoU. They fhewed roe here,
among divers other books , the
book of defigns of the faid Prince
Ele&or Palatin, which he had:- de»
figned being young. Happy Prince
if he had not ddigned to hiafelf
an other mans Crown.
In the great room of this Li- rhepUu
brary there is an Iron door which °fR.(£tf~
letteth you into a more fecret room,*™*
where the Regifters of the Church
©£
great
ferfons.
66 The Voyage
of Kerne are kept : the keeper of
which Regifters was anciently called
Chartularius > an office mnch like
to that in the Greek Church} called
Qbartophylax*
In fine I was (hewn here divers
letters of great perfons and Princes,
written with their own hands, as
of S. Cbjrls Boromcus? to Cardinal
Sirktv who had had a hand in his
Some <■<■ education: of Queen Mary ol En-
l "lT ^ W« Hi(: of Kin S pbili P the Second
" of Spain her husband, {tiling him-
" felf King of Spain, England, and
tc Franct'toi Francis the firftof France:
" of Margaret of Farmathat gever-
c< ned Ftanders when it revolted: of
Pre lident Vargas a Spaniard, and a
great Statefman in Flanders, but
no great Latinift, as it appeared by
his anfwer to the Doctors of Lovain
( petitioning him in Latin for
their priviledgcs ) when he faid ;
Non curarnm vojlros prhilegiof.
Mali faxtrtint templa f> bdni nihil
faxemnt contra '• ergo deb en t omnei
putlulari: the terms of the ex-
. population being as harfh as the
Conclufion of itiand fome old polite
Orators
Harjb
Latin.
Canon
Pafchalis
Of Italt j6
Orators had rather have been hangd
indeed, than threatened in fuch bad
Latin.
A little before I went out of this
Library, I faw near the door, the
Statue of Hyppolitus Biftiop of
Vortua f who lived J4C0 years a-
go 3 fitting in achair oHtone, upon
which is cut in Greek letters the
ancient Canon Yafebalkf^upon which
Scaliger and others have written.
Its a curious piece of learned an-
tiquity, and worthy to be taken no-
tice of.
id. Having feen the Library we
were led on by the long Gallery The y e i ve .
mentioned before, unto the Belve- d er e.
dere, where we defcended into the
Popes private garden,full of orange
trees , fine walks, and fountains.
Here are three or four, unavoid-
able wetting places to thofe that
art not acquainted with them. Hence
you go down to fee the rare foun-
tain of the Iron (hi p. In this garden
I faw the Pineapple of brafs guilt,
which is as great as three men can 2**JF'**
fathom about , and twice as high ftleit ^ e
as the tal left men can reach. Here
alfo
68 T HE Voyage
alfo ftand by it the two great Pea-
rte tv>9 cocks of t> ra f s « u iit, which itood
restocks. • , &••'***• i •
x anciently upon Scipio Africans his
tomb, and are fome three or four
yards long.
2ht Behe- 1 y.From. hence we were led hard
j^^'Hytofee the Belvedere of the Nhfi
' cbere, which Michael Angelo called.,
his fludy. Its a fquare Court fet with
Orange trees, in whole walls are
great Niches with leaves to them
of wood, where the choice ftatue$>
of the world are conferved under
loek and key , and free from ilt
weather. The chiefeft itatues arc
j^*,. thefe : that of the river Nilus y and
tws ' that of Tyher, both incumbent pof-
tures : T'hat of Antinomy minion of
the Emperor Adrian \ its of pure
oriental marble, and rarely cut: that
of Cleopatra : that of Venus com-
ing out of a bath : that otCommodus
the Emperor: that of Laocoon and
his fons involved about with fer-
pents. This ftatue of Las com is the •
mafter piece of fculpture. That in
the middle of the Court, of Ber-
euks without arms, legs, or head,
is f© rare a trunck, that Michael,
Angela
O * Ita lt 69
Angela profeflcd, he had learned Michael
more skill out of that broken ftatue,^ "
than out of all the whole ones he had
ever feen. Hence you fee alwaiesa
world of fculptorsdefigning it out:
Apiece of the Lyons skin yet ap-
pearing made me not doubt but it
was the ftatue of Hercules,
18. From hence we ftept into 'f^
the great garden of the Baluedere
Be i vt d<rt
full of exotick trees, curious foun-
tains, (hady walks,and great variety
of Grottes and wetting fports.
19. Laftly, in your return again
through the Vatican Pallace, we tfce Ar-
faw the armory full of arms, for mtrs
thirty thoufand men,horfe and foot,
and well kept.
Having thus feen the Vatican
Pallace;, I went on with the reft ef
the curiofities of the 'town, and
took them in order as they lay.
Hence going from S. P«/crx, and^ s ™"
leaving the Pallace of the Santo
Officio 3 on my right hand, I came fbe mf-
prefently to the Hofpital of Saitpitalof
Spirit which is hard by. The fi- $.8p»r»#
tuition
O *■ Italt 7®
tuation of this Mofpitar near to
S. Peters Church , was not done
cafuallyi but without doubt, upon
defign and for this end, that men
might learn by the very ficuation
of Hofpitals near unto great
Churches (as lobfervedin many
other places both in Italy , and
France) that Chriftians after they
have performed their duties to God,
ought to pay in the next place their
duties to their neighbour i and let
that faith, which they came from
exerciling in the Church towards
God , be made appear by good
works, exercifed prefently in Hof-
pitals toward men. Now this Hof-
pital of San Spirito, is one of the
faireft in Europe both for bignefs,
and revenues.. It hath a thoufand
beds in it fur the tick : a Prelate
to govern it ; (tore of Priefts , Phy-
ficians, and under Officers to
attend on them, and a revenue of
feventy thoufand crowns a year.
There is alfo a monaftery of women
in it, in a place feparated from
the reft, capable of 5C0 young girls.
In
71 The Voyage
In the appartiments above flairs
there is handfomeaccomodation for -
poor gentlemen , founded by the
gentleman like charity of Pope
Vrban the VIII, to this end, that
thofe whom fortune had priviledged
by better birth might not be invol-
ved in common miferies. There is
alfo a grate towards the ftreet,
where Iitttle infants are put into a
fquare hole of a Turn, & fo turned
in by night by their unlawful
mothers, who not daring to own
them, would otherwifedare to de-
ftroy them. Confiantin the great x^;,,
founded fuch Hofpitals for cxpofed Guyon in
children. The perfon that brings <t>ver.lec.
the child in the night ringsa little / - a,c - I<5,
bell whofe rope hangs at the outfide
of that grate, and an Officer within
comes pfefently and rcceiveth \i\
& having rirft asked whether it be
baptized or no, carriethit prefently
away, and recommends it to a
Nurfe, of which there are a'waics
ftore in readinefs entertained there
at the cofr of the Hofpital on the
womans fide of the houfe. When
the children are grown fit for in-
struction ,
qnate
71 The Voyagi
ftru&ion, they are let to trades. Th«
girls are carefully brought up by
religious women there, till they
be fit for marriage or a Nunnery ,
according to their vocation.
S.Ouofri- From hence I went to Onofrios
•s church. Church upon the hill, where I fa w
the tomb and picture over it, of
the tomi r;itc * or 4 uato 1 a -B°> vvh ° re warlike
of Tor- Mufe is able to infpire mettle into
his readers breaft, and diipofe him
to the engagement of a new Cra-
fade againft the Tttrkj. This I
can fay of him if Virgil hindered him
from being the firlt of Poets, he hin-
dered -Virgil from being the only
Poet.
Returning d@wn again, and go-
ing along the Longaria, I faw the
finely pallaee of the Duke of Sal-
vim on the right hand, and the
ViUaoi Cbifi (now called the gar-
den of Famef h ) on the left hand. In '
this Villa, I law rare painting attri-
buted to Raphael Vrb'm.
Over againit this garden, lives
2*ng«r»
Villa
Cbifi
Queen
cbrijiwas now the Queen of Swede, in whofe
Valine
Pallaee belides the rare hangings
of cloth of Gold,& of arras hangings
of
O F I T AL T
7$
fcf filk and gold, i faw a curious
collection ot pictures, originals all,
and of the prime maftcrs of the
world : That of St. Thomas Moor
is without doubt, of Ham Hoi-
bains hand, and a rare piece.
Paffing on the Longara ftill, I
eame to the Porta Stptimiana , fo
called from Septimus Severn; who
built here his 7b<rme \ and Co
up the Hill to Saint Taneratius* 1 '***'
his gate, and to the Church of that ^.^ "
£aint poilcflTed now by difcalced
Carmelits. Under this Church is the
C^meterium Cahfodii^ where many Cemttt-
Martyrs bodies were buried: Here r/) * m
was buried Crefoentins the tyrant, *
*
who feizing upon the Caftle An-
gelo fwaid all in Rome for a while.
From hence, I went to the ViUa Z 1 ***,-
Famfilia, which is hard by. Its a * *
new ViUa but feated high, & from
the terrafs upon the top of the houfc
you have a fine profpedh There arc
divers good pictures and ftatues in
the houfc, and fine waterworks y
and a grotta in the garden.The belt
pictures here are, the Crucifixion of
St Feter , and the Convcrfion of
D d Si
74 The V-oyage
S. Taul) of Michel Angelas hand.
The entry of the Animals into the
Ark of Noah, is a rarcpiecc: the beft
flatues are the wreftling of Jacob
with the Angel in white marble:
SenccMtUiuc : and the Bttfio of In-
nocent the X of porphyry : and his
head inbrafs.
Pveturning again into the Town
the fame way we came, I faw the
ffa brave fountain made by Pauhu
fountain Quinius, who caufed the water to
sfFaulut.be brought thither frcm the Lake
r ° - of Brace i a?; o above thirty milts off,
by a (lately Aqueduct '■> znd from
hence it is diiperfed into the City
and there makes new fountains.
Hard by (lands the Convent of
Tramifcans upon a Hill, called S.
guv. Piciro Montorio, where S. Veier was
pietro crucifyed with Ws head down-
Mor.xorit Warc J , j n t [ ut vcr y p] ace f t ; ie
Court where thercs now a- round
Chappcl.Entring into the Church
I was much taken with the picture
fox the high Altar reprefenting our
Saviours transfiguration. It was the
h(l and beft piece of R'apbad Vr-
I'nii making, and then I may fay.,
it
Of Italy 75
it is the bed in the world: Iguefs
it to be the belt of Raphaels pieces,
becaufe dying he commanded that
this pi&ure of all his pidtures ,,
fhould be fet up at his teet after
his death. In this Church lies
buried the Earl of Tyrone who
fled from Ireland hither in Queen
Elizabeth r time. Here are t wo fine
Itatues in marble of S Veter and
S. Paul, of the hand of Michel An-
gelo.
Going out of this Church, you
have a fair fight of Rome under you -¥ om '
from this hill. This hill was an- fj}™"
ciently called Jan\mlus\ and upon
it was buried Statins the Poet;, and
at the foot of it NumaVompilius-
Near the foot of this Hill (lands
the Church and Convent of the
Scala belonging to the Difcaked
Carmelits. The high Altar is very L(t Scal *
neat •, and the good fathers (hewed
us in a little Chappel within the
convent the foot ot S.Thcrefa, which
is plainly fecn through a Chryftal in
which its kept. s "«'*
Not far from hence (lands Santa %™«
Maria Trjnjlevcre , the firft Church J?; -
Dd
built
tahtrnn
M'rito-
&y
S.Tran-
tejco in
Rip*
€r*tlde.
j 6 The Voyage
built in K*me ( faith Baroulits ) and
built there where anciently flood
the 'taberru meritorU '■> where the
maimed foldiers received their pit-
tance dayly. The guilt roof, and
the two rows of marble pillars,
do miach beautify this Church.
Under the high Altar is yet feen
the place where oil iflued out, as
from a fountain, a little before our
Saviours birth, as denouncing his
birch to be at hand, who was to
be called Chrijltu, that is anointed.
In this Church lie buried Car-
dinal Hofiiu a moft learned Trent
Father, and Cardinal Campegw the
Popes Legat in England in Henry
the VIII time. You fee here the
itone that was tyed about the neck
ef S- Calixtus Pope, when he was
thrown into a well.
Here alfo you fee great round
ftones which were hung at the feet
of the martyrs to torment them.
The convent of Franc ifcan Fry ars
called S. Francefe* in Ripa Grande
is hard by i where I faw the cham-
ber where great S. Francis lodged
when he lived in Kerne. Its now
turned
Rjp*
Of Italy 77
turned into a Chappel. In the
Church there is an excellent picture
of piety, made hyC.iraccio. Here
in the Church is the tomb of B?ata
Ludjvica Matheiof the third order
or S. Francis .
I took the Ripa Grande in my 27a„di
way, and faw there he boats of
merchandife which come to Rome
from Ligorni-i Civita Vtchia-y Naples ,-
and other places, and difembark
their goods here.
From the Rip* I went to g. s i 0*"
Cicilies church built where her houie £" .
was,and where (lie was put to death
for the Chriftian rcligioh.Under the
High Altar of this Church is tfce
tomb of this primitive Saint, with^.V^"
her ftatue in a couchant pofture, and
juft as her body was found in Cle-
ment the VlII time,wrapt up in vails
itained with blood, and covered
with a robe of gold. The neat de-
coration before the Hgh Altar,
with the filver lamps burning before
the tomb of this Saint, was the
foundation of Cardinal Sfondrati.
At the end of this Church, as you
Dd 3 come.
«
Cardinal
A Atom
Temb.
■
7 S The Voiaoe
come in, arefeen yet the ftoves in
which S. Cicily was (hut up in her
ownhoufe to be (lifted, but that
failing flie was beheaded. The
itovts are yet entire, and (hewing
the manner of the ancient Moves. .In
the Church Porch I found the tomb
of one Adam an Englifh Bifhop of
Londgri) and Cardinal of this title >
who died in Romean.i^j. it hath
thefe verfes upon it.
Ariihtts ijh [ pater famnftts in emni*
bus Adam
Morjuit, Theoio-T'.f-s J ummus^CariinalUque tral
AngliA cut fatriam^ tiiulum dedti
ijia Beat*
Mdes Ctciii*) mnfal ' ftiprifH'a
Ftslum.
Not far from this Church ftands
S. Cbryjogonut his Church, a neat
Church repaired fome years ago
by Cardinal Bnrgkefi. The four
pillars of the high Altar looK
as if they were of fand and Chryital
petrified together. On the left hand
Cnrdits.il of the wall near the great door,
lies buried Robert Archbifliop
of Xo>\^ and titular of this
Cburcb this was all I could learn
out
S. Chry
JcgW9
R.obcrt
A\ ebb.
•ftork>
OfItalt 7p
out of the Tomfriione.
Having thus wandered over the
Trajhvere, I made towards the lie
of S. Bjrtbolomw, in which (lands
a good Hofpital and a convent ot"
Franeifcatif, in whofe Church re-
pofeth , under the High Altar, in
a fair porphyiie Tomb, the body*
of St. Bartholomew Apoftle.This He s. Bar-
was anciently called Injkla Tiber- thoh-
int , and it was tirft made by the mewt
corn of TLarquinins Superbus, which r
being (after his ejection out of the
City ) pluckt up by the roots and
thrown into the river, by reafon
of the quantity of earth that illicit
to the roots flopped here where
the water was low* and this Mop-
page once begun, all the mud of
the river came afterwards to itop :
here too i and fo in time, to form
a little He in the midft of the ri-
ver.
Goiflg out of the He by the brid^ p onU
of four heads anciently called Pons quarts
fdWidits ) which joins this He Ca P>
with the City, I looked down the
river on my right hand, to fcethe j WA /^
Pons SubUcius , which Codes alone yiidut
Dd 4, defended.
So
T HE VOY A 6E
Jewry.
defended againft an army, till the*
bridge was cut down behind him:
which he percieving leapt into the
river armed and fwom iafc to his
fellow Citizens, who were as glad
to fee him come off fafe 3 as to rind
rhcmfelves fafe. It was called Tom
Sfcbtidw, frosn the word public* in
Latin , which iigniries great beams
of' woodjof which it was made : it
was afterwards built of ftone by M-
milms- From this bridge the wicked
Emperor Hdiogabulus was thrown
into the river and drowned with a
great ftone about his neck.
No (boner was I over this bridge
but I faw on say left hand, the great
back door of the Jewryi for here the
Jews live all altogether in a corner
of the Town, and are locked up
every night. I cntred into their
Synagogues here ( which they call
their fchools ) where ttay meet
upon faturdaysand Grig and pray.
I wondered at firlt, that they had
learned no more manners inthefc
their fchools than to enter into them
to pray, without cither putting of
hats, lifting up eyes, or bending of
knees
Of Italy
Si
knees to the Great Jehova whom
they rather fear than love. Mofes
going to him, put off his fliooes,
and I expected, that thefe men
(hould at leaft, have put off their
hats at the entrance into their Syn-
agogues : but they are Arch-
clowns, and their fowl towels, at
the entrance into their Synagogues,
told me as much. I once faw a
circumcifion, but it was fo painfull
to the child that it was able to*
make a man heartily thank God:
that foe is a Christian. And really
if the little child could fpeak and
wifli, I believe hs would wifti ■
himfelf the greareft curfe in
the world , and to be a woman i
rather than a man upon fuch terms
I faw alio a marriage here perfor*
med with many ceremonies.
Returning out of the Jewry by
the fame gate I entred,Ifa w on my
left hand, the Pall ace of Prince
SaveB : its built upon the mines of
the Theater of MarceUur^ built by ^ Wt ^,,
Augu^us in honour of his nephew
Marcellns: it was capable of four-
ifeore thoufand men..
Dd 5. Parting^
8:
T he Voyage
Ma
~¥erha.
ta.
Palling on, I came to an ancient
Santa Church called Santa Maria in
fJmdm Cofmt&n, ox in Mbola Graca, where
Sf. ^*/rw before his converfion ,
taught Rhetorick. In the porch of
this Church ftands a great round
ftonc cut into the face or a man,with
a great wide mouth, commonly cal-
led, La Bicej delta verity the
mouth of truth j but this not being
affirmed by the mouth of truth, I
dare rot believe it :I rather believe
it fcr.ved in fome old building for a
gutter fpout: 1 know truth may
fpeak loud, and have a wide mouth j
but he that takes every wide mouth
for the mouth of truth, is much
miiiaken.
The next Church Tcameto was.
Santa Maria Egyptiaca:\t was the
Temple of the Sun and ]ttpiter. This
Church is neatly adorned with cu-
rious chanelled pillars. It belongs to
the Armenians, who have an Hos-
pital alio here belonging to the
Catholick pilgrims of that country;
and the Pope allows them to cele-
brate malTe here after their own
Armenian rite,
On
8. Maria
Hgyftia-
Of Italy &j
Oh the other fide of the great'
Tiazza-, ftands the Church of S.
Steven. Its rounded withcjiarielleci
pillars alfo. It was antiefofly the
Temple of JawMatutina mpming,
Juno, or Alba Vea, the Break of"
day goddefs : a goddefs which. our
Ladies, that never rife till noon,
would never have been, devout
to.
Clofe by this Church ( which ^ •'
ftands by the river fide ) the great cloatat
fink of Rom*-) called Cloaca Maxi* Kaxiimf
mz , emptyed it felf into Tyber*.
And though this were but a fink,,
yet it deferves to be mentioned a-
mong the rare magnifieencies of
ancient Rome. For it was noblely.
built by. larquinius Prifcus ,.. of"
freeitone, arched overhead, with a<
world of fprings running into it ;:
and it was [o great, that a Cart-
might have gone in it,. This fink.
was one of the evident tokens of
the greatnefs and magnificence of
Rome anciently i and indeed a farM^if
greater evidence than that of Hdio-*f : ' Rom **\
gabulus v who caufed all the.fpidfers*J^JJf£ # ..
webs of Rome to b* gathered toge-
ther
2%t
§4 The Voyage
thcr and weighed, that by Co many
pound weight of fpiders webs, the
gre«tnefs of Rome might the better
be conjectured.
Going on from hence by the river
fid«,I came to the foot of the mount
Aventin and left on my left hand a
Ghappcl belonging to the Knights
of Malta, Our antiquaries tell ns,
that near to this pla'ce flood the
Temple of thtBona Dm, into which
Temp!* of no man was to enter :and that Cacus
- (?»/» Df« ft is den was alfo in the fide of this
hiil, into which he dragd Hercules
his oxen by the tails that no man
(hould find out his theft by the
footiteps. Upon the tide of this hill
flood alfo the SeaU Gemviia.down
which criminal perfons were tumb'-
Vtmoni*.'}ed into Tyber.
Going up this hill I went to S.
Alexius his Church, where I faw
the wooden flairs under which this
£aint lodged for feventeen years in
his own Fathers houle ( after fifteen
years abfence)without being known
to any body, till after his death. The
body of this £aint lies under the
high Altar, together with that of
Cue MS bit
"NH.
Stat*
S.Ahxi
its hit
Ghnrth,
O f Italt 85
S.Bonif actus the Martyr.
Hard by upon the fame Hill,
Hands*?. SabinM Church, whither
tfie Pope comes upon JJhrrednef-
day in a Solemn cavalcata accom-
panied with the Cardinals.
Here alfo upon this Hill, flood
anciently the Temple of liberty and
the Romam Armilujhium.
Defending -from hence I made
towards S„ Vaults Gate; and in the
way I faw on my right hand the
Hill called M»ns Tejlacius, which
was mad* of the broken pots
thrown there in the Romans time
by the ? oners* Its half a mile about,
and i<5o foot high.
A little nearer the Gate ©f S.
Taull faw the Tomb of Cains Cef-
t'ws, built like a Firamid or" Egypt>
and all of pure white marble. This
is the moil entire work of all the
ancient Rowan works. This Cef-
t'ws ( as the words upon his Tomb
import ) was femptemvir epulonmh
that k, one of thofe feaven men
called Epuhnes anciently , becaufe
they had the devouring, of thofe
bavrquets
s. Sa-
binas
Church.
ArtnHuJ'
trium.
Mom
tefiitcim*
The tomh
ofC. Cef-
tltyS.
Eputonis*-
tbt Gatt
e/S.
Fattl.
S. Pauls
£hurcb.
into.
86 The Voyage
banquets which were (cc before the
Gods in their Lcttiftemw, in the
Temple of Jupiter Cafitolinus.
Paffing thence through the Gate
of S. Paul, anciently called Porta
T'ergem'ma i and Parta Oftienfu j I.
went to S. Pauls Church a little
mile from the town. In the way I
took notice of a little Chappel on
the left hand, where S. Peter and
S. Paul took leave of one another 5
before they were led to Martyr-
dome.
Soon after I came to S. Pads
Church, here S. P^td was buried
by Lmina a Roman Lady, and there-
fore (nnjlantin the Great built this
Church in the honour of S. Paul
as he had done that of S. Peter
mentioned above. Its built crofle-
wife, and the body of it is 477-
foot long, and 258 broad i with
a hundred pillars in all, fet in four
ranks? all of them ancient round,
marble pillars taken out of the
Baths of Attoninus , faith Vajfarh
Yet in all this vaft body of the
Church there are no Chappels^ nor
any
O* ITALT- ^
any decoration, except at the very
end of it, near the great door,
where there is an Altar with thefe
words in ftone over ir, Hie in-
vent um eft caput S. Pattli. The molt
remarkable things which I fa where,
were thefe.
i. The high Altar^w'tth a canopy,
offtone like a "tabernacle-, born up
by four porphyry pillars,and adorn-
ed with ilatues. Under the Altar
repofeth half of the bodies of S.
Peter and S. Paul (as I obferved
before in S. Peters Church ) and as
the infeription upon the iide of the
Alt*r here affirmes" in thele words t.
Sub hoc altari reqttiejcunt glorinfa-
corpora Apoftolorum Petri & Pattli
pro jKft/iefo/e.Bebind this^/^rftands.
the Couftffion of S. Paul like that.
of S- Petev defcribed above. Under
the little low doors which let the
Prieft into the Heps of the Altar
are written thefe words in golden
letters, himlna Aptfolornm, which Lim'mn,
make me bold to hold againft fomc Apftd**
modern writers, that this wasthe r * w *
precife place, and not the door of
the church, which was called Limina
dpoftohfum. 2. In
88 Thf Voyage
2. la the old Arch in the top of
the roof, is yet feen a piece of
Mofaick work reprefenting. our
Saviour in the midft of the four and
twenty Elders of the Apocalypft-
This piece was made there twelve
hundred yeares ago in the time of
S: Lwthe great ; and at the coft of
Flacidia Galla ( daughter of Ihtor
dofius-> and fitter of Honorim ) as
thetwovcifcsin that Arch teftify
thus :
VlacidU pia men t operis? deeus omm
reportat-i
Gaudet VontlficU fiudio fplendere
Leonis*
5. The famous Miraculous Cru-
crucifix, cinx( Handing inaChappel on the
&vcn. kpjMe iide of the High Altar) which
fpoke to S. Bridgit. This Crucifix
favours the opinion of thofe who
affirm that there were two nailes
in our Saviours feet.
4. The neat Chappel and Mer-
«tfc/eoftheE. Sacrament* with
the rare pidures relating there un-
to, made by Cavalier Lanfranco.
5. The pi&ure of the Altar of S.
Suven made by a Lady of Bolo-
gna
The mi
racttloui
OlTAL T $£
gns called Lavinia Fontana.
6. The chief Relicks kept hctc^rMmd
are, the Head of the Samaritan Matirol.
woman converted by our Saviour : Mtl ' rt a t
the Armc of S. Anne mother of our
blefTed Lady ; and the Chain of S._
Paul.
From S. Fauls Church I went to
the Ire Fontane above a mile and
a half off, and in the way, f parted
over the place where S. Ztno, and
ten thoufand Cbrifiians were mar-
tyred^ at once by the command of
Vioeletianthe butcher. Their blood
made this way holy all along.
Arriving at the Tre fontane I
faw there three Churches ftandifig 1 '
1 *"**
within a place anciently called, Jd tane '
Aquas Salvia*. The firft of thefe three *.
Churches is that of S. Vincent and chuuhof
Anajlafe, becaufc of their Relicks S.Vincent
fent hither. For about the year*'"*
62J. the Emperor Heradim fent the ^"^
Head of S. Anafiafws with the
pi&ure of the fame Saint unto Pope Sar inim
Hmorius the Firft. A courteouSrtM.627...
Father, of S. Bernards Order here,
did me the favour to fhew me near
the high Altar, this Head, and this
Picture.
Bar en.
go T he Voyage
Picture. Thefe two are moil: authen-
tical things i for the attefhtion of
them is in the very A&s of the
fecond Council of Nice held an. 789,
where to prove the lawful nets of
facred Images againft the Iconoclaflr,
the (acred Council cites a miracle
yjfo'Stf. wr °ught by this very picfurfc of S.
end art. Anaftafms : and Bironius quotes
71 J« divers others wrought by the fame
picture. •
rt , In the fecond Church here, to wit,
Cbmsh ™ e ^ ft ^ e rounc ^ Church on the right
hand, there is a famous picture of
S. Bernards Extafis. Under this
Church I was led into a Vault where
many of the bodies of the forefiid
ten thoufand Chriftians, who were
martyred with S. Zeno, are bury-
ed. This vault goes a mile under*
ground.
In the third place ftands the little
Church of the Tre Fontane, fo cal-
led becaufe S. FjhI was here be-
headed, and where his head jump t
thrice, three fountains gufhed out.
Upon an Altar on the left hand, is
an excellent Picture of S. Peters
of Gttido
JLbeni
Tre Few*
tatte.
crucifixion 3 of the hand
rhe An-
Ojr jTALr 91
TUstnu On the other fide is feen a
little block (within an iron grate )
upon which they fay S. Pauls head
was cut off.
Going from hence I went over
the fields to the Church of the An-
nuntlata one of the nine Churches of
Rome vilited by Pilgrims > and from
thence to S.Scbjjlians. SM .
S. SebjjliiHf Church, is one of tiaut J
the feaven Churches, and of great churtb*
devotion by reafon of the Cata-
eombes which are under it. Here I
faw the Tomb of S. SebajUan under
an altar on the left hand : many
relicks kept over an altar on the
right hand : and the Vault under-
neath where Pope Steven was be-
headed in his own £eat of Hone,
and where S. Peters and S- Pauls
bodies were hidden many yeares.
Thence I was let into the Cata-
(Ofnbes which are under this church,
and which from thence running
many miles under ground, made
anciently a Chriltian Rome under
the Heathen. There were divers
©f thefe Catacombes in the primi-
tive
the Ca-
tatombes*
Get mete -
riutn €a
iixti.
$2 THI VoTAGf
tive times, and they were called
diverlly : Arenaria, Crjpt*^ Area^
Concilu Martyrftm , Voiiandria ,
but molt frequently Ctmewia, that
is, dermhoria, becaufe here repofed
the bodies of the holy Martyrs and
Saints qui obdormiverunt in Domino.
But the greateft of all thefe C£tne-
teria was this of Calixtus. In thefe
■Catacombcs during the perfecuti-
onsraifed againft the Chriftians by
ten Heathen JLmftrors , the faith-
full bdeivers, together with their
Popes and Paftors, ufed privately to
meet to cxercife their Religion,
and fteal their devotions •, that is,
to hear Mafs in little round
Chappels painted over head poorly,
Minifter the Sacraments ; bury the
dead Martyrs and Confeflbrs in the
walls of the long alleys, preacb,hold
conferences -, and even celebnte
Councils too fomtimes. I defcended
fcveral times into feveral parts of
thefe Cdtacombts with a good expe-
rienced "guide (which you muft be-
fore of) & with wax lights (torches
being too ftifling) and wandered in
them
O f It a ly 93
them up and down with extraor-
dinary fatisfa£tion of mind. The
ltreets underground are cut out with
mens hands and mattocks. They are
as high as a man, for the melt part,
and no broader than for two men t©
■meet. All the way long, the fides of
thefc Alleys are full of holes, as long
as a man, and fometimes there are
three rowes, one over another, ia
which they had buryed theirMartyrs
and ConfefTors : and that pofterity
might afterwards knowwhichwere
Martyrs , which Confeflbrs , they
engraved upon the ftone which
mur'd them up, or upon one of the
bricks , a Palme branch, in fign
of a Martyr > and a Pro Cbrijh in
Cyphers for a Confcflbr. Its re-
corded,that during the forefaid per-
fections , a hundred feaventy four
thoufawd Martyrs were buryed
here in this Ctmetery of Calixtm :
among whom were nineteen Popes
Martyrs. Hence rhefe Catacombes
have alwayes been efteemed as a
place of great devotion, and much
frequented by devout pcrfons. The
words over the door, as you defcend
into
Op It alt ^4
into them from the Church of S.
Sebaftian y tell you , how S. Hie-
rome confefftth, that he u(ed every
S. Hie- Sunday and H'lydjy, during his ftay
Ezecbiel m R me -> t0 g° to thek Catacombes*
c.40. ' And a picture hung over the fame
door fheweth how $• Philip Neri
ufed to frequent thefe holy places
„ in the night h and from whence, I
believe, he fucked that true fpirit
of the primitive Church , which
reigned in him, and ftill reigneth
in the breafts of his moft vertuous
children, the pious Vrie/h of the
Oratory of Rome, whom I muft
alwayes praife wherefoever I find
them, becaufe I alwayes rind them
either writing holy things or
living them; that is, either write-
ing books fit to be lived, or living
lives fit to be written. Indeed its
incredible how much the prelence
of thefe Holy Martyrs bodyes, hath
fanftifyed this place : in fo much
that no man enters into the cjta-
, combes but he comes better out, than
he went in. Catholicks coine out far
more willing to dye for that faith,
for which fo many of their anceftors
♦ have
^5 The Voyag e
have dyed before them. The Ad-
verfaries of the Roniin Church come
out more daggered in their faith,
and more miide towards the Ca-
tholic]^ Religion, to fee what piety
there is even in the bowels of Rome >
Atheifts come out with that belief, -
that furely there is a God, feeing fo
many thoufands of Martyrs have
teitifyed it with their blood.
From S. Sebijiians I went to the
place hard by called Capo di Bove
ftanding upon the Via Appia. It is
a great building faced about with
marble ftones. It was the Sepulcher
of Met ell* wife of rich Crajfus. Its
now called Capo di Bove becaufeof Cxpodi
theoxe heads cut in marble which Bove -
compofe the cornice that runns
about the top of this Moles. Enter-
inginto it you will wonder at the
thicknefs of the walls which are
above eight ells thick. It was begun
to b: pulled down, especially the
great marble flones on the outfide
of it, to make up ihe Fovtana di
Trtvi \ but Cardinal Barberino would
r.ot fuffer it to be fo defaced.
Clofe by Hand the mines of the
fntonmiit
flie pre
tsrium.
Circus
$6 The Votagi
Pretorium , the Quarters of the
Pretorian Bands, which the Empe-
rours lodged here, a little out of the
throng of the town , that they
might not occafion fo eafily tu-
mults j and that they might cxer-
cifethemfelves often in the Circo of
Caratalla which was hard by.
This Circus was made by the Em-
peror Caracalla, and is the molt
Carae»&4 entire of all the Circos that were in
Rome. You fee where the Careens y
or ftarting place was, where the
Meta i where the Guglia were. You
fee how long it was, and the walls
yet (how you what compafe it car-
ryed. In the midlt of it flood that
Guglia which now ftands in the
mid ft of Piazza Navona- I faw it
lye here broken in three pieces, and
-neglected quite till the Earl of
Arundel our late Lord ftlarjbwl,
offering to buy it & having already
depofited rtweefcore crowncs in
earned for it 5 made the Romans
begin to think that it was fome rine
thing, and flop the tranfporting of
it into England, At lalt it light
upon a goodftone- fctter,who joyncd
O F I T AL T
97
it Co well together that it now
hands (freight again upon a rare
baiis, and adornes the very heart
of Rome : Thanks to that ingeni-
ous architect Cavalier Bernini who
fe.t it up there in the anno Sanfio,
and whom it fet up too again in the
Popes favour Innocent the X. which
hehad loft, by a crack in the roof
of *he Porch of S. Peters Church,
caufedby the heavy fteeple which
he had placed upon it.
Near the end of the Circus of
Caracalla^ (tands an old round Tem-
ple, with an other little Ante-Tern- -ffuTempu
pie, clofe joyned to its and out of rfv«rtm
which you go into the other. H° nC{t *
What if this were the Temple of
Honour? into which there was no
paflage , but through the Temple
of Vertue, which was joyned clofe
toit, as this is: to manifeft, that
Vertue is the way to Honour. Now
its certain that thefe two Temples
itood not far from the Porta Car-
pma (now called S< Sebaflians gate)
as thefe two do. But I declare, that
this is but gueffing.
Hard by theforefaid old Temple
fe e there
98 T me Voyage
•v/ there is an Eccho which heretofore
(as they fay) would repeat after you
a whole verfe o (Virgil y but if To, it
- < Ecthe was m y fortune to 6nd fecr when
{lie had catched a cold : for I
could get nothing from her but the
two lait words of a fentence. Indeed
Aufo nius calls the Eccfo , the tail
of words i and Symfofiw faith, that
the Eccho is like a modeft Firgi/z :
which fpeaks nothing but when (he
is asked.
Returning from S. Sebajiians
towards the town again , I palled
by a little Chappel called, Vomim
quo vadis ? and anciently called,
Sanfta Maria ad pajfur. Its called
Vomim quo vadti^ becaufe our Sa-
viour appearing here to S. Teter
flying out of the prifon of Rome, was
asked by Peter , Vomine^quovadij}
9$mine Lord whither goyou^And he an-
1»»v*iis. f W£re( j . y ac [ n irnam m iyi iterum
erHcifigar, I am going to Kuns^thac
to be crucifyed again : which words
Feter undcrftanding rightly,of Cbriji s
fufferiug in his members, the faith-
full belivers , returned again to
Hem*, and was foon after crucified.
in
Of It alt g$,
In the middle of this Chappelarc
fcen the prints of our Saviours feet
in a white marble (tone with an iron
grate orer them. St NtrtM(
Entringinto the town by £. St-imiAcku?
Ifsftisns gate, I went on ftraeigh to '»*»
the Chureh of [&. Ntrcu: aud Acbil-
Uur , of which Church Stroma
was Cardinal. The bodies *f thele
Saints arc under the High Altar.
Cardinal Baronruf cauled this
Church to be painted with the hif-
tories of Saints and martyrs,to excite
ethersto devotion by their examples
Almoftover againft this Church, s*HSi$*
ftands the Church of S. Siih with
its snonaftery made famous by $.
Dominie!^, who made it his habi-
tation, and by whom God wrought
many miracles here. It itands in
a moft unwholefome place called
anciently the Pifcina publica , be-
caufe the people ufe to warn them-
felvcs here. Here are buryed S
Sixtus, Anthem /, Lucius* Lueianus-
Sotberus-, & Zepherijius^ Popes and'
martyrs.
Hercsa fine pi&urcof £« Vinan-
tins Ferreriufy
Ee 2 Fromi
\
■
S.John
AnuVor-
tatn La-
tittitm.
S.John
Laterans
ChurcJu
The Popes
Cathedral
IGO The Voyage
From thence I went towards the
the Porta laiina , and there fawtlie
Church where* S- John Evaugeliji
was put into a caldron of boiling
oyle. ^
Then Following the walls of the
town for a good while, I came at
lalt to S. John Lateral Church, the
mother-Church of all Churches in
the. world, and the Popes Catpe-
dral. In .faying ths I have faid
enough •, and I fay this after the
words which are written in the
architrave over the Porch of this
Church >, and after the Bull, of
Gregory the Xl. who declared this
Church, to be the I?opes chief feat,
and to have the preeminency over
the other Churches, 0>rbis& Vrhh\
even over S. Peters Church too by
name. It was built by Conftam'm
the Great upon mount C^lius^ and
dedicated to our Saviour himfeli ,
for whofe fake it defer veththe head-
fliipover all the other Churches in
the world, as he, to whom it is
dedicated, is the Head of all the
£le&. Yet it is called diverfly by
Ecclefiamcal Authors, Sometimes
Bifitica
101
becaufe Con-
e times Baftlica
Of Italy
Biijt/ica Co?;ffantinian *,
ftantin built it -,
$ tlvatim, bec-aufc it was dedicated
to our Saviour. Sometimes Bxftfiea
S. Jojinnist becaufe it was near to
the two Chappels dedicated to the
two S. frhm, in the BaptiUery of
Conftantin : fome times it was called
Bafilica S. Joannii'm Litsrano^ or
S. John Laterals Church, becaufe it .
was built upon the place whereP/,?^
tins Laterals tine defigned Confu!,
had a fair houfe a:nd a garden, which
Nero the Tyrant imade bold withal],
having firit macHe bold with their
matter, by killing him. Now this, tacitm
& the other great Churches of Rom "»* J»-
are called Bafilic* , either becaufe ™™ l -l*
they arc built afttra Royal and (late- °'
ly manner, or e'lfe becaufe they are
built to the King of Kings.
As for this Church of S. John
Lattran, It is here that the Pope
taketh polTeffion of his Papal
charge, after he hath been chofeti
and confecratcd Biftop (if he were
none before) in S. Peters Church,
tor this reafon all the chief Epif-
E e $ copal
I©2 T HE VOTAGI
sopalFun&ions of the particular D/V
ttfe of K<v»e, arc performed here »
as the confecrating of Bifhops [and
Vrkjify the conferring of the Sacra-
ment of Confirmation : the Baptize-
ing of converted Jewer and Infidels,
tor this reafon its looked upon by
the Popes with great refpeci, and
hath been not ©nely beautified by
them with coftly decorations, fuch
as thofc , that Clement the VIII ,
and Innocent the X made i but alio
favoured by them with great prero-
gatives i one declaring by his Papal
Decree, that this is the Mother
Church of all Churches,another fix-
ing her every altar it felf(of wood)
on which S\ Fetemnd the primitive
Popes had offered Sacrifice i another
allowing the Clergy of this Church
the precedency over the Ciergyof all
otherChurchesin publick proctfllons
and to carry before them two
Crucifixes i another fixing here
the Heads of Saint Teter and Saint
Van!.
As for the things molt to be taken
notice of hcn\ they are thefe.
i, The
O r Italt 105
1. The Sofia or roof of this
Church moft richly guilt.
2. The body of the Churchall made
new almolt by Pope Innocemthc X,
as to the infideof it.
3. The rare painting that runns
erofs the Church from the irately
Organs to the Altar of the B. Sacra-
ment, containg the chief actions of
Conjlantin the Great , and other
hiftories. That of the Afcenfion of
our Saviour,with the Apoltles look-
ing up after him, is of the hand
of Cavalier Ciapippe. The Hiftoiies
and figures about the Chariot of
Cmftamin, are of the hand of Bel-
l-ardino. That of the apparition of
our Saviour, that of Mount Sorac-
te , that over again (t Conftantinr
Biptiftne, are all of the hand of
Paris Romano. That of the Biptifme
oiCsnjhntin is of thehaHd oiCavalicr
RktVi. In the Quire of the Canons
the picture of $. John is of the hind
of Cavalier GicfcppC' In fine , the
picture of our Saviou in the very
(v'tbum , or Abfidi ■> was the flrft
picture that appeared publickly in
E e 4 Rome
104 The Votasi
Kowe, and which was miraculoufly
conferved in the burning of this
church. There are divers in others
pictures in that vaulted Tribun in
Mofaick work»& feme fymbolical fi-
gures relating to our Saviours life &
pafllon, which were much ufed and*-
cntly in Churches, as you may fee in
many other Churches, and in the
rare book called, Kama Soterra-
nea.
4. The High Altar here, within
which is (hut up rise Woodden Altar
which S. Peter and the primitive
Popes made ufe of in faying Mafs
upon it during the perfecutions, and
before they had any fetled Churches.
S. Sihefttr in the dedication of this
Church, fixed it here, and none can
fay Mafs at this Altar, but the
- Pope, or during the Popes indif-
pofition fome Cardinal, with a par*
ticular difpenfation, or Apoftolical
Brief which muft be fattened to one
'of the foui pillars of the Altar ,
during the Cardinals faying Mafs
J there. Over this Altar ftands a
great Tabernacle of Marble borne
up by four pillars, not onely ferv-
ing
Of Italt 105
ing for a Canopy, to the Altar, but
alfo for an Area to the Heads of*?*™"™
Of o« ttlf ■
S, Peter and S> Paul which are^^,
kept within it, and fhown there Paul.
to the deople upon great dayes
through an iron grate which envi-
rons them.
5. The Altar of the B. £acra->
ment adorned by the coft of Clement
the VIII, With a curious and pre-
tious Tabernacle of rich poliihed
ftones, and with four pillars of
brafs guilt, about fifteen foot high.
Over this Altar is the Table it felf
upon which our Saviour eat the
Pafcbal Lamb before his Paffion,
and then prefently instituted the.
Holy Sacrament, of which the P.^ 1 -
chal Lamb was but a figure.
6. The brafen Tomb of -Martin:
the V, ofthehoufeof Colonna^ who
waschofeu Pope in the Council of."
Gonftance.
7. The Tomb of- Alexander- the
III, of the houfe of BandmeHi in
Siena, neatly adorned by Pope Alt'
xander the VII, who took his name-
ol Alexander r rom him.
S. The Tomb of Lattremius VaVa
, . E.e 5 a.;
ur.viror
106* TiriVoTA©!
t learned Roman , and Cbanon of
this Church s of whom, as the re-
storer of pure Latin language after
Jf*A GotieJ^ Barbaroufnefs , Latonim fung
Uviamit* thus :
Eleg.dec- ^ omH l Hs e jr Frfo, Valla eft idiomatis
author :
Hie reparat primus , primus ut iUt
ftrttit.
9. In old Gofic^ Letters upon the
Architrave of the porch of this
Church you read thefe Leonint
verfes,
Vegmate Papali datur ac fimttl Jm-
periali,
£$ttbd fiff Cmttarum Miter & Ca-
put Ecckfiarum.
io.In the C/oi/rerofthisChurch,Ifaw
the Chair QiTorphyryi which ufeth to
"Wplaced neareto the great door of
the Church on that day the Pope
faketh poMion of his charge in this
Ghurchi in which chair the Pope is
placed a while, & at his rifing from
it again,the Quire lings this vcrfe
©f the 1 12 Pfalm, SufcitatdepttL-
vcre egenum &de fi ere ore eregit pau-
perem : .and this Ceremony and
pierced Chair are onely to put the
Pope
Of Italt icj
Pope in mind of his humane infix-
mities^ amidil His glorious exa!-c*w»«r
tations, and the peoples applaufes. leK - oma>
For To alfo the Greek Emperors on r™ z ' oC \^
the day of their coronation, had a
great many marble itones, of fe-
veral colours , prefented to them,
to choofe which of them they would,
to make their Tomb of. This was, #***"
to put them in mind of their "," M C
mortality amialt thofe great ho »
nours.
But its ftrange to fee how the ene-
mies of the Pop>es, give out mali**
cioufly, that this Chair (whofe ufe,
we fee Co plainly in the very Cere-
monial of Rome ) was only in-j^U#J^i
t e nded >ad e xphrandu mfexum ,and -to *Cy
hiwder the inconvemency of another/: *
Pope Joanne-Vox this reafon I think^ .
it not amifs to examine a little this&iBN
fable of a free Pope , or of a Pope,'
Joanne.
I am not affraid at* all to call
this a. fable, both for the unlike- *^>.*W,
linefs of it in generall i as alfo for "f^W
the fufpeded authority of ; its nrfi J 9 """"
broachers , the contrarieties in the
fiory > and the little credit given, -
id
n-./..
ioB
The VoTsagk
iftdtff***-' unto it by the learnedeft adverfa-
&**• ries of the Roman Church. Firm,
what can be more unlikely than that
Vnlikf- a woman mould furprife iuch a wife
lintfstf nation as the Italians are 3 and Co
- /ȣ/?. grofly > what more unlikely, than
/? <__ that a woman fhould pafs her youth
< ^ y \r in^thofe fevere itudies, which arc
^^\jo(t^ ZQ P lxt ^ ln P°P es ? without being
_^ c y£i nown t0 nave wronged , or dif-
^oi^-^ . covered her fexe •, and that me muft
^v jufl do it, when (he was in a do
e£\*-si>frV dining age, at which age Popes
Vrifrff' 1 **** ordinarily are choien? What more
■g.^JL-JW*- unlikely, than that a woman find-
(■Jfefig^ing her felf great with child, mould
ilS «****«* venture to gafo far a foot in a
- o!!X4i-'^^P roGe ^ on - What more unlikely,
»■ ■ '. , £ than that, if there had beenfucha
^ffm (he Pope, the Greek Church (which
then was at odds with the Roman
Church) mould have patted it over
in filence, and not have upbraided
her with fuch a difgracefull Pafior,
efpeciaily feing the Romz* Church
hud upbraided the Greek Church
with having an Eunucbiox her chief
Patriarch ? What in fine more un-
likely than that there fhould haw
been
Of Italy' lep
been fuchafheePope Co publickly-y"
convinced to have been a wpmawCJ^
& that Anafiafius Bibliothecarins who^ ' ■
wr/te the lives of the Popes fomG*
thirty years after that pretendedj^^
time, and who mult have lived ivT^jP'qP
her time, fpeaks nothing of any fucl ^HM£
womaHjOr any fuch ftrang accident s2&J
Secondly, the firft broachers of th ™ lr
this itory make it very much fuf- p 00 f. *+
peeked, feeing Martians Telonns^^^^cS^
and fome others of the Emperors mo V~sr~y
faction ( then at variance with tne <#T$£^
Popes ) are thefirft that mentioned %^*/ft&
this fable: and Tlatina, who quotes ntarfytu*-
no higher authors for it, grounds a «°™»;ft»*»
ilory of this confluence upon no^3*2JS?
better authority than "a weak 5 fig e3 / r $.<-/,^&
dice, its fatd. r^TiF***
Thirdly, the apparent conf radi&i- di&i*n in
0ns in thetale,convince it of falfity: *1***U, -
as that this Joue was an Engliih *M* 6 t
woman born in Nhntz , which air
men know to be a Rhenifh town in
Germany: and that (he had ltu-
dyed at Athens in Greece
vv
hich
long before thistjme had been dc-
itroyed.
Fourthly* the little credit given
to
y 10
■-JM
The Vota«i
to it by the learnedeft adverfaries
S/tilvtrfk- of the Roman Church, to wit, four
ries con- • minifters of France (who take
iris it to r . . _ , ,
- > kafabh tniS hiitory for a meer table)proves
fufficiently that its wprfe than an
old wives tale. For Mr. Blondelz
French minifter ( whom I knew in
Paris above twenty years ago ) and
a man of that account there, that he
was chofen to anfwer the learned
book of Cardinal Peron: this Won-
del-, I fay, made a book in French
( Printed at Amsterdam by Bleat*
Anno i647inOifcavo) on purpole
to (hew , that this (lory of afhee
Pope called Joanne was a meer
fable. And that we may not think
that W.ondel alone of all Proteftant
Minilters , held this for a fable,
Monftettr Serravits a great Galvinift
and Counsellor ef the Parliament of
Paris-, in a letter of his to Salma-
fins having mentioned to him this
book of BlondeU addeth thefe
. words': No/It autem- eredere primttm
• tut folnm e nojlris Blo»dellum it*
fenjiffe : quamvis fortaffis^ mnto un-
qtum fortius & pefftus ift»d folum
edit a vent
'Swrtviii
Of It-alt
ir*
talcaverit. Fnere enint in eadem
fextentia no* inctlebres inter Refor~ i
matof Tbeologi: & adbue vigent in
hae Vfbt infignes fide & fietate viri^
qui Audierwit ex ore Camttii, fe . . .
iftam hijloriam-) vulge creditsm r fa-
bnlofis depware. Vidi n*per Jcriptar
litteras dotti & vegeti Jenis, tibique
& mibi anticijjrmi, Betri Molinti ,
quibus idem -Jenifer fibi ejfe vifum df- B
firmabat Mo»li**{
Penes me font liter£ Samnelis
Mecbtrti, qtdbur tejiatnr fibi ejfe
pro comperto vanum & fiSHtium , fothart.*^-
quicquid batttnus de ea fit proditwn.
Thus MohJichi- Serraziuf in a pri-
vate letter ( though his fe>n after
his death printed his letters) to a
friend of the fame religion : And
thus you fee, how this table main-
tained highly a long time by the
adverfaries of the Roman Church,
expired at lair ( as all lies do ) and.
was carried to its grave upon the
moulders of four French minifters:
Biondel , Chamhr^ dn Mwlin , and :
Rcchart. If I have been a little too
long in this digreflion you will par-
don me ; We are all debtors tc v
truth "Ci
M2 The Vqyagjs
truth •, and all men ought to be glad
to fee themfelves difabufed.
Going out or' the little back door
haptifien °^ l ^ is Church, I went to ^ ee tne
c/co«- B^ptiftery of Conftantin the great,
fixntine. our molt noble Countryman, & the
firft Emperor that publickly pro-
felTed Chriltianity. ThisBaptiflery
is built round, and in the center of
it, in a defcent of four uVps, (lands
the Tery Font, in which the faid
Emperor was baptized by Pope
Sylvtfter. Its environed with low
rails of marble, and adorned
with ten, or twelve great pillars
of Porphyry ( the faireft in Rome )
which bear up the painted Vault
over the Font: fo that people ftan-
. ding about thefe nils, may fee
conveniently the baptizing of
Jews and Inhdels in the pit below.
Upon the walls of the round Chap*
pel, are painted in Frefco the mod
memorable actions of Conftantin
the great : as his vilion of the Crofs
in the Air, with thefe words
above it , In bocfi^no vincef : his
overcoming the Tyrant Maxen-
tiHSi his baptifm here by S. Sih
vejhr,
I
Of italt rig
t/rfarihis burning the Libels againft
CatholickBifhops, preferred to him
by the Arrians : his kifling the
wounds of thofe good Bifhops in the
Council of Nice, who had either
their fingers cut off, or one eye put
out by the Tyrants. *?' s t ca! «
On the other fide of S. JihnLa-
terans Church Hands the Scala
Santa, and the Sand a Sanftorum.
The Scala Santa is called from the
flairs, twenty eight in all, up which
our Saviour was led in his paffion
to Pilates houfe.Upon fbme of them
you fee the places where the pre-
tious blood of our Saviour had fil-
len:& for that reafon they are cover-
ed with little grates of brafs, which
let in eyes, but keep of knees: I
fay knees i for none go up thefe
holy flairs otherwife than kneeling,
and this out of reverence to him
who often' fell upon his knees as
he was dragged up and down thefe
itairs. Its painful enough to go up
thefe itairs upon your knees, yec
I faw it done hourly in the Jwbiiy
year, by continual flocks of devout
people both men and women >. of
great
V J
tttt
»V f*nSo
rum,
X
Set fun-
mcela.
Lib.
Deta
Kotti*
it Veca-
bolt Ec-
eitjiiifthi)
in verb»
Achyre-
V
114 The Voiage
great condition as well as of great
jdevotiop.Thcfe holy Itairs were fent
from Hierufahm to Cottflantin the
great,by his mother Queen Helen ^to-
gether witlt many other relickskept
in S. John Ltaeams Church. They are
of white marble,&above6foot long.
At the head of thefe flairs (lands
the Chappel called Sanfta Santto-,
rum-, bccaule of the holy things kept
in it. Hence over the Altar in this
Chappel, arc written thefc words.
Non eft in teto San&ior Orbe Locus.
Upon the Altar is kept the mi-
raculous picture of our Saviour, it
reprefents him about thirteen years
old, & only his half body. Its about
a foot and a half long,and its faid to
have been begun by S. L«^, but
ended miraculouily by an Angel.
Others fays that S. Luke having
only prepared the ground , and
before he had drawn one ftroke,
fell to his prayers to beg of God
that he might draw his Son right,
and riling up again he found
his picture already fcni&ed. Hence
Demenico Magri ( a learned Anti-
fuarie ) is ©f opinion , that this
picture
Of Italy i/£
pi&ure of our Saviour is that very ^
picture which AnafiaftHf Bibliotbe-
eariuf in the life of Stephen the II,
calls Acbyrofata , that is , made
without hands. Round abeut this
picture goes a fet of great jewels
enriching the frame of it. Under
the Altar rep&feth thic body of S.
Anafiafim , of whofe. head and
picture I fpoke abowe in the de-
fcription of thti e Crmrcrh of this Saint
at the Tre Fontane. \ {Here arc alfo
kept the heads ofS. ,Agnts and S.
Traxtdtsj with many corner pretious
Rclicks. AncienfiJy, ( as the Re-
cords here mentiwi") the Holy
Prepuce, or Foreskin of our Saviour
was kept here too ; bat being taken
away in the fackof Km*j, by one o»fc*M,
of Bourbons foldiers, it W2S left in
a Couutry Town called Calcata,
fome fifteen miles difUnt frons Rome
by the fame Soldier who could not j^ (H0 ,
reft day nor night, as long as he had chit Ctn-
that r«/ici^about him.I once paffed by turi* i.tf.
that town ( Galcata ) by chance, and 10,
by the civilities of the Lord of the
Town, Count of AnguWara , at
whofc houfe we were noblely enter-
tawed
Triclini-
um Lio-
ttis.
Il£ The Voyage
tained all night, had the happinefs
the next morning, to fee this pre-
tious relick through the cryftal cafe:
This Count keeps one key of it, and
the Parrifh Prieft the other, without
both which it cannot be itti\.
Ncer to the Scala Santa is feen a
famous piece of antiquity of Chri-
H'un' Rime^ called Triclinium LeoaU:
where is Cccn a Mofaick picture of
our Saviour refufcitated, and hold-
ing out a book to his difciples , in.
which are written thefe words:P^w
s/<?£#:Peace be to you: which picture
Leo caufed to be made eight hundred.
years ago
as an emblem of his
peaceable return again To his (eat ,
after he had been chafed out by his
enemies. Upon a pillar on the right
hand, is painted our Saviour fitting,
upon a Throne and giving with one
hand, the keys of the Church toS.
Peter, and with the other, the
imperial ftandard to Conftantin the
great. Upon the other pillar on
the left hand, is -reprefented in
Mofaick work alfo, S Peter fitting,
in a chair,and with one hand giving
unto Pope Lto the III the Papal
ftole
O* Italy UJ
ftolejand with the other, the impe-
rial ftandard unto Charlemagne,
who had reftored this Pope Leo to
his feat again.
From hence palling again by S.
John Lateram Church, I faw firft ,
the pallace of the Pope here, built
by Sixtut Quintus : then the great
Guglia ( with Egyptian Hyemglypbes
figured upon it) which had ltood
anciently in the Circus Maxitnus:
its above ico foot high, and was
brought from Alexandria to Rome
by Conftantin the great. Laftly in a
low room joining to the Church, I
law the ftatue in Bronze of Htnry
the IV of France, (et up here by the
Canons of S. John Later am ■> for
having caufed ten thoufand Crowns
a year to be reftored to this Church ,
which was due to it in France.
I looked alfo into the fair Hofpi- fhe Uof-
tal which ftands hard by the fait- pttalof-
faid Church, and fo well ferved & s. John
tended,thatmany perfons of quality
in their ficknefs defire to be trans-
fered hither ,that they may be better
looked to,than they can be at home.
Taking
9. St if a
t»ni$.
nil*.
1 19 The V or age
Taking the wall of the old Aqui'
&H&, of" Claudius along with me
I went to San Stefano Kotondo^ (land-
ing upon the mount Ccelittt too.
This Church now belongs to tho
Seminarijis of the GeinunColledge.
Upon the round walls arc painted
curioufly the martyrdoms of ancient
martyrSjWith the divers instruments
ofthe hcatheasjwhercwith they tor-
v mented the poor Chriftians.
s.Mafia Over againft this Church (lands
ih N*vi- the Church of Santa Maria deia
Navi<ella> fo called from a little
ftone (hip which Rinds before it,
being a vow of certain boatmen.
This Church in ancient authors, is
called in Dominica , or in Ciriac*
becaufe of a holy woman called
Cirtaca , in whofe houfe here S.
Laurence diftributed all the Church
goods he, as Deacon, had in his
hands, unto the poor.
Hard by (lands the Villa of the
Duke Mattbei, where I faw the
neat houfe full of curious (tatues,and
crufted on the outfide with rare
antieaglie. Among the reft I took
particular notice of the heads of
itutut
TiU
M»thti.
Of I talt
I20
Brutus and Ysraa, ma* and wife in f :
one ftone : the ftatues of Cleopatra :
of HtrcuJes : of three little boyes
Sleeping and hugging one another:
the head of Cieere rarely well cut:
the ftatue of \Aarcus Aurikus- A
rare table of pretious ftones. In an
other houfe here ( looking tCWards
San Sijis ) I faw the incomparable
ftatue of Andromeda expofed to
the \ Sea monfter, its of pore white
marble, andofthehandof Olmtro.
That other there of Ap%\U fleaing
Mar/tat, is an excellent piece too,
and in white marble : fo is alfo that
of the Satyre plucking a thorn out
of his foot. The curious alley, L
waterworks.grotts, walks, wetting ^
places, and the intricate labyrinth,
are all very delightfome.
Defending from hence I went to
the old Amphitheater, called now the
Cilift-6) beeaufc ofaColoflean ftatue The Am-
that ftood in it. This is one of the t httt * t,r .
rareft pieces of antiquity in Rome-,
and though Romt be grown again,
by her new pallaces, one of the
fipeft Cities of Europe^ yet her very
ruines* are finer than her new build-
ing^.
120 The Voyag*
ings. And though I am not ignorant
how Rome-, fince her Ladyfhip go-
verned the world, and was at her
Rome greatne(s,hath been iix fe veral times
"jackfdjix ruined, and facked, by the envy
times, and avarice of barbarous nations
( Vifegoths , IVandals , Ernies , Of-
trogotbj\ r totila who fet fire on Kerne
1 8 daies, together, and the Germans
under Bourbon ) whofe malice was
Vefari in] fo great againtl Rome, that of thirty
i re f a fix Triumphal Arches once inK^we,
their remain but four now vi-
sibly appealing j that often 1berm<»
anciently, but two remain any
way vifiblei that of feven Circos-, but
one now appears : yet as of fair
Ladies, there remain even in their
old age, fair refts of comlinefs :
(b the very ruines of Romz^ which
malice could not reach tcv nor ava-
rice carry away, are yet fo comely,
that they ravifl") u;ill the beholders
eye with their beauties, and make
good the faying of an ancient au-
thor, that Roma jacens quoque mira-
culo efiiRome is a miracle even in its
mines. But to return to the Colijeo^its
an other wonder of the world : & I
wonder
Fliny*
Of It alt
121
wonder indeed, how fuch prodi- •
gious ftones could either be laid
together in a building, or being laid
together, could fall. Vefpafian ^
began it V but Vomitlan finished it •, te dat t<t-
and Martial flattered it as a wonder for Am-
which outftript all the wonders ott hiths(t -
Egyfi and its Pyramids. It was tr °' u,iitm
of" a prodigious height, as that part^ L£ c ~
of it yet ftanding fticweth. The u( m>m
form of it was round without, and op«*.
oval within and the outfide of it
was adorned with the three orders
of pillars, great arches below, open
galleries above, both to walk in,
and to let people into the Am-
pbitbeattr? and out again without
crowding: fo that two hundred
thoufand people could go in or
out, in half an hours time, with-
out crowding. Within, it went
up from below by fteps of ftone
unto the top, and afforded room
enough to all that world of people
to lit conveniently, and fee the
combats and fports that were exhi-
bited in the Arena. Anciently the
top of it was fet round with ftatues, f t
and in time of great heats or rains, V' "
F f it N.
Met a
Sudttns
I2X The V oyagi
it was all overfpred with great fails.
From its roundiln form it got the
name of Amphitheater, from feeing
on all fides. Underneath were the
eaves for the wild beafls, out of
which they turned them loofe to
righ^ fometimes againft condem-
ned men-, fometimes againft inno-
cent Chriftians. Nero made the Chri-
ftians be clad in the skins of bealts}
and fo to be expofed to Lyons and
Bears. Sometimes alfo gladiators
fought againll: gladiators* and one
gladiator againll: twenty others:
nay the very noble Romans them-
felves would now and then right
here publickly, cither to (hew fport
or valour. And all this was done by
the politick Romans, to teach men
not to be afraid of bloodfhed and
death in tjme of wars, with which
they had been fo acquainted in time
of peace.
The old round rubbage of brick
which is here near the Jmphiibea-
/cr, was anciently a .tine fountain
ailed Met a Su dans, ftrving for the
ufe of thofe that came to the fports
here. It was all faced with marble,
and
ife— ••*
G F Italt 125
and had aftatueof Japz/erof brafs
upon it.
Hard by ftands the Triumphal^
Arch of Co»{iantin the great. Its all rhritmi
of marble, with a world of curious pbalanh
ftatues anciently,but now headlefs, c f Con '
and with hiftories in bafli rilietti. ltj"?^
was erected to him in memory of his
victory over the tyrant -Maxem^
as to the freer of the City,& founder
of publick quiet. As the words here
import, Liberatori Vrbis^ Fundatori
§>uhtis.
From hence I went to the Church
of S. Iobn and Pauh and thence to
S. Gregorks Church,which anciently ^ G
had been his houfe. They (hew us r hs * g '
yet the place and the table where cbnrtV.
this holy man in recompenfe of his
charitable hofpitalicy to the poor,
deferved to have an Angel, and the
Lord of Angels for his gudts. Hi
treated dayly here iipoor men, ifl
honour or the 1 2 Apoitlts. In one of
the Chappels you fee a fine flame of
white marble of S. Grigairyi in his
Pontifical robes - , it was creeled to
his honour by Cardinal B/nw^r,
who was a devout admirer of him.
1: 1 2 1*
%A
124 The Vota^gi
In the garden belonging to the
monaftery of S. Gregory , there is to
be Teen a cave in which I faw upon
the wall fome old painting of the
higheft times of Pagan Rome : pitti-
ful fluff, yetconfiderablefor itsan-
cientneis.
From hence I went to the Baths
jntomta or Ihermt, of the Emperor An-
bk Math, toniw-, looking more like a Town,
than a bathing place. Indeed
Ammianus MarceUinus out throws
ine, and calls thefe, and the other
'tbermd'm Rime, Lavacra in modum
frovinciarum exftrufta '. Bathing
places built like provinces.And judg
whether of us hath more reafon, by
that which we read in the Excepts
Olympodori , where its faid , that
thefe baths of Antonius had a
thoufand fix hundred feats of po-
liced maihle \ for as many perfons
to fit and bath in a part : nay, fome
of thofe bathing places were paved
with filver, and were adorned fo
curiouily with filver pipes for the
water,with ftatuespivfrures,& preti-
ous ftones, that Seneca cryes out:
E$ del.ciarum Vmimus , tit nifi
gemmas
Of Italy 125
gemm.tr calcare nolimtcss We arc
come to that delicacy that we fcom
to tread upon any thing but jewels :
Now thtfe baths ferve only for the .
Roman Seminaries to recreate in. jj.,*,.
Returning from hence between mm.
the mount Avenrin and the mount
Talatin , I faw the place where the
Circus Maximns flood. This was
the greatelt of all the Circos in
Rome, as its name (news. It was
begun by Tarquinius Vrifctij , but
afterwards much augmented by
Ittlius Cafar and Augifittt* It was
three ftades long, aud four akers
wide(the Roman ftade was625foot,
or 1 25 pacesjat laft it was adorned
with itatues and pillars by Trajan
and-He!iogabuhts. A hundred and
fifty thoufand men could fit conve-
niently in the three open galierics,
One of which was for the Senators
the fecond for the gentlemen, and
the third for the common people.
The two great Obelickj, to wit, that
before Porta del Topth^ and that
before S. Iohn Laterals flood in it.
Under this building were many
Ff4 vaulted
the
126* T * E Voyage
Vaulted Caves called in Latin, For-
nices, were lewd women prosti-
tuted themfelves for money, and fo
from thefe Fornices came the word
Fornicatim.
Going from hence toS. Georges
Church, I faw on my right hand ,
the goodly ruines of the Emperors
Emperors pallace , called Palazzo Maggiore.
Ftilace. It poflfefTed almoft all the Palat'm
hill, as the ruines (hew. Stately
ruines I confefs: but ruines, and
imperial ruines. And here I could
not but wonder tofee,the pallace of
the pcrfecuting Emperors ruined
quite, and the Church of the poor
Fifherman itanding itill, more glo-
rious than ever.
Before I came to S. Georges Church
I ftept into S» Anajtaf.us Church ,
which was anciently. the Temple of
Neptune: and from thence to the
oldfquare Temple, commonly held
to be the Temple ot Ia?ms Qnadri-
foris : and withfome reafon , be-
cauf e it hath four doors in it, and
twelve Niches upon every lid e of
the fquare cut tide. The four doors
"P* dented the four ftafons of the
year :
Temp'ttm
OfItalt 127
year: the twelve niches, the twelve
months of the year : yet others vvil
j have it to have been only an Arch,
or Portick or a Lodge : and while
they difpute if He go on to S. Geor- S.Gecrges
gej Chuch hard by to which Church Chureh. .
is joined an old Arch curioully
carved in marble, which wat erec-
ted here, by the merchants or gold-
fmiths, to the Emperors Scverus^ &C
M. Anrelms.
Near unto this Church of S.
George came anciently the water of
Tiber: and this water or creek of\- „.,
the river was railed Velabrum , brum.
becaufe men pafled over the river
here by boat, and fometime with a
little fail, when the wind flood
fair.
From hence I went to the round
Church of S, Tbeodoro (landing in
theK'D Bosrit. This was ancient-
ly the Temple ofR omulus and Ktmus
bfciuft it was here that thofe two
brothers were expofed, and nou-
rished by a (he-wolf which found
them here.
Not far from hence I ftept into
F f 4 the
Forum
Eoctrium,
[2$
T ft « Vota«e
the Tern
p!eof
Yrft*.
the hofpital of our Lady of Com-
folation.This was once the Temple
oiVefka. And here it was that the
Veftal Virgins ( inftituted by Numa)
kept the Eternal fire , the ex-
tiBguifhing of which was held by
the fuperititious heathens , fatal
to the ftate •, and therefore they
committed the keeping of this fire
to Virgins of great repute and ho-
Tbt Vejtal n0 ur. Thefe Virgins were t© be i©
"!'«>. y £ars j n i earn i n g t heir profeffion } i o
years more in exercifing it, and
other ten years more in teaching it
toothers. And for this reafon they
had great priviledges given them.
For if in going up and down the
City, they met by chance, a crimi-
nal man going to be executed, they
had power to free him. If any of
thefe Veftals forgetting her fdf had
wronged her virginity, they would
not , out of reverence to her pro-
feflion, lay violent hands on her
by the common executioner , but
they buried her alive in a low vault
made for the nonce.
From hence I entered into (he
Set Plw
tarcb in
Kttma*
Qf Italy I3£
tamp Vaecittt, and prefently fell^,^.,
upon three pilhrs of admirable p racd-
ftru&ure:they belongd to the temple theitm-
of Jupiter Stater built by Rctnu!us-:P leo f lH ~'i
The occafion was this. ^■ Qmu ^ Hs ^s\lm»
in a battle againfl: the Sabins> feeing
his men give back, made a vow
prefently to I^ifer, that if he would
flop their flight and make them
ftand to it, he would build
him a Temple : Sifte fcedam fngam ,
faid he to lupittr : The men flood 9
and the Temple was built to Inciter
Stater who made men ftand.But this
hipiter Stator could not make his
own Temple (land y for its now Co
ruined, that antiquaries are fcarec
fure where it flood.
Clofetothefe three pillars ftands *
the Church .of Santa Maria Libt~
r •atria at the foot of the Palatin
hill, why this Church is focal led
both a long writing in the Church,
and Baronins in his annals, tell at
length.
Near to this Church flood the tatm • |
Lam Curtii , a flink'nag a puddle C*«*H
which annoi'd the Romans much, , ,
Ff k . andi
Ad A»»>x
3M
150 The Voyage
and which the Oracle allured was
not to be ftopt up but by cafting
into it the mort pretious thing in
Rome. Hereupon the Ladies threw
in their bed Jewels*, and the Noble-
men, every one what he hid the
moft pretious., but all in vain. At
lafi Cmtins a brave young noble-
man, thinking that there was no-
thing; more pleafant than a gallant
manj mounting on horfebackin a
brave equipage, in fight of all the
people, jumpt into this Lake alive,
?"*'*' as a viclime devoted to his coun-
- " etbs'rs tnesferviee* and the hole hereupon
clofedi I confefs a brave Cava-
lier is a pretious jewel indeed: and
I remember that a Roman Lady
having (hewed her jewels to Cornelia
the mother of the Graecbi, and ha-
ving defired her to fhew a'fo her
jewels, (he called for her two young
fons ( brave youths ) and faid i
here Madam, are my jewels: and
in my opinion, Cm, fas wasfome-
what vain glorious, to thinkiiim-
i&lf to be the braveft man in the
City : it the ro'es and judgment
of
the fir,
O f It alt 13-1
of all the people had declared hiH9>
to be fo ( as they did afterwards
declare Scip'w Nafita to be the
beft man of all the Romans > and
the matrons declared Snlpith to be
the cliafteft matron of her time) 1
then he might have devoted himfelf
more freely for his countrysfafety.
Going on from hence on the
right hand (till, I came t© the door
of ' Farnefes garden. This garden Farnef&s
ftands upon the mount Pa!atinS ar ^"
where anciently the Emperors had
their Pallace which took up all
the upper part of this Hill, but
not all the skirts of it.for I rind, that I
the goddeflfe Feaver, & the god-
defs Viriplaca had their temples
here, and Catalin and Cicero their
houfes. Entring into this garden
I found fome pretty waterworks &
grottes at the entrance , and fine .
high walks above, overlooking the
place where the Grew Maximus
flood anciently. The fcholars of the
English Colledge in Rome have a ^ 'j -*
piece of this hill fot their Vine a vwwil*
aad recreation place, to breath on
upon dayes si Vacancy,
Following^
132 Th* Voyage
Following ftill my right hand* I
sfo nnh came to the Arch of Titus v a
•jTit$u. Triumphal arch erected to him
upon his victory over the Jews.
j Hence you fee here engraven in
' mezzo rilieuo the faid Emperor in
a Triumphant Chariot : and on
the other, the Holy Candleftick of
the temple of Hierufalent, the ark
of the alliance, and the tables of
the Law, which this Empcrour
brought with him after, his taking
of Hurttjakm , to grace his Tri-
umph. This is the moft ancient
Triumphal Arch in Rowe, and it
Jtood in the .via Sacra which went
under it.
Wheeling about tbe Campj Vac*
rino^ ftill on my right hand, I came
€h*nbof t0 the Church of SanSa Francefta
s.rran- R****#0 1 otherwife called Santa
ttfcaR.9 -Maria Nuwa. Here I faw the neat
mma. Tomb of that Saint in brafs guilt,
made at the coft of Pope Tnnotmt
the X. Heres alio cut in white mar*
ble, and ftandingupen an altar the
hiftory of the Popes returning again
to Rome from dvjgon. I faw alto
facre a rare lute of hangings belong-
ing
Or Italt 131
ing to this Church, and given by
the Sifter of Pope Innocent the
X.
Hard by, Hands the Temple of .
Peace, that is, forae remnants of
if peace.
that Temple. It was once the moft
noble of all the Temples ( as the
pillar before S. Mary Majors
great door, which belonged to this
Temple, (heweth) It was 200 foot
large , and 300. long : but now
little fignes of its beauty remain;
warres and time defacing the mo-
numents of Peace. It was built by
Vefpafian who placed in it the
fpoiles of the Temple of Hierufalem
brought to Rome by "Titus .
Behind this Temple llandfc a neat
garden belonging once to Cardinal
Pio, where I faw neat water works.
Its now fold.to another matter.
Goingon ftill in the Camp Vac-
cina on the right hand, I came to
the round Church of S. Cofmo and fhtchmth 1
S.Vtmiano, anciently the Temple ^ %^\
of Caftor and ToUux : becaufe the™^*"
Ramans having feen t wo men upon
Sweating horfes , that told them.
ECW5
134 The Voyage
news of a battle wonu by their
Conful, and Co vanished, they ima-
gined them to be Gafior and Pollux^
and thereupon decreed them this
Temple. TheMofaick work in the
roof of the Tribune deferves your
particular attention, for the Symbo-
lical figures fake.
Going on Mil, I came to the
t0 '-j"^ Church of S. Lorenzo in Miranda.
randa. It was once a Temple dedicated to
FaHjUna the Emperefs by her husband
Antoniw. Poor man ! he could not
Metfit in make her an honcft woman in her
vita M. lifetime, and yet he would needs
<-*««'"*• make her a Goddefs after her
£!u'ii death ' The Porch otthiS Church
i 4.C 11 . s ftate | y ^ by reafon of its great
marble pillars.
A little further (lands the Church
of S.AdriaHo^ anciently dedicated
totter?* who firft- taught the Ita-
lians to make Money, and therefore
the Romans placed their JErarhtm
piblicum, The PubUck Treafury in
this temple,and had their Mint hard
by it. .
S. Martina Church followes the
me'xt ■> and in a low Chappel neatly
adorned
S.Adri*'
Of F alt. 135,
adorned, I faw her Tomb i Here
flood anciently the Temple of Mars,
the Revenger.
Before this Church ftands the ™ *|-
Triumphal Arch of Stpimius St- Jrcho f
verus rarely cut with figures in mar- Severn.
ble in mezza rilievo. Half of it is
huryed under ground ,the other half
is fore battered with the aire, who
would think the aire and the Earth
to be devouring elements, as well
as the fire and the water ? But why
do I accufe the Air, when its onely
time ( which taketh a pride to
triumph our Triumphs > that hath
battered this Triumphal Arch, and
moultered even marble ?
A little higher on the hill fide 5 ^
ftands the little Church of 8- Jo-
Jepb, where I fa w- in the low grot
underneath, the prifon called an-
ciently TnBanumi into which pri-
fonS. -P«<r and S, ^*'*k« c £™
(hut up. I defended into the low"*' m
dungeon where S. Teter baptised
Froeejfm and Mjrtittianut, his two
keepers, with divers others.- The
Fountain of water that fprung up
mina1l.9u.ny for that holy function,
&;
&
ih* Co-
mittum*
l$6 The Voyage
isftillfeen there in the bettom of
that dungeon*
Many other brave buildings flood
anciently in this For* Romano,
worth remembringiasthe Comitium y
or publick place of affembly v fo
called a coeundo : it being the Great
Hall of juftice, in which was erec-
ted a large Tribunal, where the
Frxtor ( our Lord chief Juftice J
fat in an Ivory chair, called CeVa
Curulti , and miniftred juftice to the
people. In this Comitmm ftood the
Statue ofHiratiu? Codes ^and in the
corners of it , thofe of Fythagiras
and Alcibiades. In this Foro alfo,
flood the Roftra, (a great Pulpk
, made of the Roftra or brafen fnouts
of the mips wonn from the Antiaus)
where Orators ufed to plead, and
where fully thundered, Behind the
Roftra ftood Romulus his Tomb,
and before the Roftra, the Tomb
oiFauftus the fofttr Father olRomu-
Mounting up from hence to the
Capitol by the Coach way, Ifaw,
upon the fide of the Hill, the piU
lars that belonged once to the Tem-
ple
OfItalt 13:7
pic of Concord, built by Camillus,
- nd not far from hence , three
other pillars of neat Fabrick which
belonged to the Temple of Jupiter
tonans, Thundering Jupiter, built
there by Augustus c/far , after he
had elcaped a thunderclap which
killed his Litter man clofe by
him.
Arriving at the Capitol, I was
glad to fee that place fo famous in ^ c */*'
the 'Reman ftory.Its name of Capitol
came from the Head of a vmn{caput
in Latin) found underground when
they firft laid the foundation here ^
of the Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus.
Juftur Lypfius, as if he had been
the Godfather of that man whofe
head was found here , faith , that
his name was tolus, and that from
Caput toll came Capitolium. This
head found here portended, that
2?o»;e(hould oae day be the head of
the world. And this title isfouni-
verfally known to belong to Rome,
that all authors affirm it, and every
petty artifan in Rome, will tell you
fo, though in falfe Latin, as one
did
Aupet
turpi a,
138 The Voyage
did me, when hearing mc praifc
K<?me, and thinking that 1 did it not
enough, cryed out to me, half in
Italian, and half in Latin } Cafpitra,
S ignore , Roma e(i capvs mmidU
which faying made me both fmile,
and lay to my fe!f, that fuch a Head
as this fellows, found now under-
ground, woultl portend the ruine of
the Latin tongue.
I went rirft to the higheft part of
that Hill,called anciently Rupes Tar-
peia. It looks down upon the
Theater of Marcelluf, and is nothing
fo high a hill as I conceived when I
firft read Livy. For I expe&ed to
have found here a hill at leaft like
that in India called Darin, which
Curtius deferibcs, hhtnjier paints
our, and H-rcuks could not takes
but. coming to it, I found it to be a
hi!! of that eafy afcent 3 that I had
ridden up far higher in Savoy and
Swijferland*
2, Then returning the fame way
ftrifftatua again to the piazza of the Capitol,
of Mar- j f aW t jj C t ^ e f amous Equeftris
cus Jure-. „ r . . * ,•
St aim of Mar ens Aureluts ', once
guilt
Thi Eqtti.
cus
Of It alt 139
guilt over, but now appearing to be
plain brais. This is the nobleft ftatuc
in the worldjand I was going to fay,
the nobleft ftatue living ifor it feems
almoft to live and breath by the
workmans art : it is noble alio
becaufe it reprefents a man io noble
as Marcus Aunlius , who was a
double Emperour,being both a great
Emperour and a great Philgfopber.
Hard by this Equejhis flame are
feen two Colojfean ftatues, powring
out t,wo rivers, the one reprefentmg
Niluf, the other Tygrti. Over them
Itandsa ftatue of Rome fomething like
f alias, her face is of white marble,
her garments of Porphyry*
3. I law the 'trophies of Marin s
cut anciently in (tone in honour oiihetr*-
that great General, who from acorn- P h,eso f
mon foldier came by his warlike m *
vertue, to be feaven times Con ful. *
4. I viewed the two great ftatues
of Conftantin the Great in white
marble, with the Horfes.
5. I law the MiliUrunti that is,
a little pillar of ftone with a great J}* Mil -
iomid brafen ball upon it. This ltmum "
pillar
14° T?H« VoTA'GI
Pillar flood anciently in the Tors
Romano before S. Adrians Church
and it was erected by Auguftuf<
C&far. It was called MiUiir'ium bc-
caufe from itthcRomjns counted
the miles., that were from Home
to every great City of Italy , or of
the Empire, and the fir ft mile dif-
tant from this pillar, was called
primus ah Vrbt Lapis j and fo of the
reft.
6- Then cntring into the Co*-
wittmtir fi wai * r * a * that, is the pallaceefthe
vat or it. Confervatort or Senatsrs , I faw
there the Statues of Julius Csfar and
jiHguflns CdfAr. Then in the.little
court I faw marked up upon the
out wall in a marble (tone, the
Roman meafures, as their Carnta,
Talme &c (as we have a)l meafured
by the Ell, and yard, ) that all
merchants may know whereto find
whether his meafures be Iawfujl and
juftj or no. Then the foot, hand,
thighs, and head,in marble fcattered
here and there in this court, yet all
looking as if they had belongd to
the great Ctkjfus of JpolJo, made
Of Italy 141
by the command, of LmcuI'us. Thea
the rare (tame of a Lyon tearing a
borfe. The Tomb of Mammea %
and Alexander Sevtrus her Ton,
with the rape of the Sabims upon it
in a baffo rilievo. The little Egyptian
Idol fet high up over this Tomb.
The head of the Emperor Commodus
in brafs, with a hand of the fame.
7. Hard by the (tairfoot as you
mount up to the Ch ambers , ftands
the Golonna Rofirata , a marble
pillar fome twelve foot high, deck- ?;£*
ed with jtemms of (hips cut in '
marble , and flicking ©ut of the
pillar, with an Infcription in the
bafts' below in fcurvey old Latin.
I found it fpoke of a Sea Victory
wonn over the Carthaginians y and
ofDttjlius ; and I cared for no more,
becaufe Livy, in better Latin^ tells-
me the relt : to wit, that it was
VuIihs that of a 1 the Romans got
the firft Naval Victory ; and then
I eafily concluded, that this pillar
was creeled to him for that fervice.
Its almoft as hard a thing to coo-
ler this ©!d Latin, as to have wonn
that Vidnrv j and therefore lie leave
Victory
the
M. Aure
Urn hit
Triumph
14.2 TheVoyagi
the words to Fetrus Ciacomtis a
flegmatick Spaniard , to comment
upon. Yet I learnt out of this left-
handed Latin , this obfervation,
thaHhe brave Remans of the high-
eft times, cared mor-e to do well,
than to (peak well > and that the
Roman commonwealth was turn-
ing towards her decline, when fine
language was in vogue.
g. Hard by this pillar ftand
mounted two little quarterCannons:
a poor Arcenal for the Roman Sena-
tors now a dayes.
9. Then mounting up fome ten
ftcps , I came into a little Court
whofe walls are all encrufted over
with four excellent pieces of Mar-
eus Am dun his triumph cut in mar-
ble. In one of them he triumpheth
in his open chariot : in another he
facriheeth : in another he givcth
largefles to the People. In the fourth
lie receiveth the prefents of the
Romans. They are all fo well cut
that you doubt whether it be the
U.mperour, or the Sculptor that
triumphs here. Indeed the Empe-
rors
Of-Jtalt 145
rors Chariot hath got new wheels
of late , and his horfcs new fliooes
and feet, elfe all is old.
io. Then going up the flairs
higher, I faw an old plate of brafs, Legts
nailed up , in which the Roman Dec h em
laws of the ten tables 3 were written: a
good Lawes, but few. And I was
glad to fee them yet kept: if that
bee fo keep lawes, to keep them
nailed fait to the Wall
1 1. Then entrin^; into the Cham-
bers and great Hall , I faw the
ftatues of Alexander Farnefe Duke
of Parma : of M. Antonins Colonna
the Popes General in the battle of
Ltpantoviwd of Den John of Auftri*
Genera'ijjim.). I faw upon the walls
painted in frefc^ the rape of the
Sablns , the duel of the itrqcm'mi
Fratres-i three brothers againft three
brothers, Horatii againit Curiaiii:
Scevela holding his hand over the
burning coales : Codes defending
the bridge alona againft an army
of men : Scipio, and Banibal with
their feveral armies, fo rarely
painted by Pietro Perugino,thnt the
Rom
in 1
144 The Voyasi
Romans now are in love with Hani-
bal.Theti the picture of the iirft Con-
ful Brutus commanding the death
of his own Son : that of the Tar-
(julnii : that of the conquering of
the Sabins &c all pieces as bold
as the very actions they reprefent.
Here alfo in the other Chambers,
Ifaw fome fine ftatucs, as that of
Cuius Marius '■> that of Hercules in
brafs being but yet a lad > That of
Junius Brutus in brafs i the heads
in marble of Viogtnes , flats ,
Sscrates: the Statues ofCicers, Virgil,
xndFlatoi the brafen ftatue of the
Woolf that gave fuck to Romulus
and Remus. But the ; beft ftatue here,
is that of the young man picking a
thorn out of his foot. Its onely of
brafs , but worth its weight in
gold. Theftory of it is this. A young
foot poft bringing letters of lingular
importance unto the Senate, and
pricking his foot as he ran, would
not ftay to pick out the thorne ■■> but
haftening to Rome with all fpeed,
delivered his letters in full Senate
prodigioufly Coon , as it appeared
by their dates. But then clapping
himfclf
OfItalt 145
himfelfdown upon the ground be-
fore them all , he began to pick
out the thorn, in the poiture you fee
him here. The Senate feing the halt
he had made , and the pain he
had endured , decreed prefently
that his ftatue in that pofture, mould
be erected in the Capitol.
Thus the- old Romans not having
then recompences enough for well
deferving men, or elfe not willing
to recompence them otherwife,
perfwaded men,that no recompence
was like to that of a ftatue in the
Capitol, or to walk up and down
the ftreets with a crown of Lawtl,
or Oaks leaves upon their heads.
Poor fooJes ! Was a crown of
leaves fuch an honour, when even
bawdy honfes and privits, Saith Ttr-
tul&mi were crowned too ? Or was IirfM ^ #
it fuch a folid honour tohave a Itatue Cete „^
in the Capitol, when getfe , and mMU
woo'fes were honoured fo too ? But
quod r arum ^ charum ejh And as Alex-
ander the Great hearing that the Se "' e c * } L
Cariathians would make him a Ci- *~ ^
tizen oi their town, fcorntd it at
iirlt : but after he had been aflured
G g that
Jk* Call.
146 TheVoyagi
that they never offered that honour
to any man but to Hercules and
him, he was well pleated with that
offer : fo the rarity of haviuga fla-
tue in the Capitol being an honour
granted to few, and thofe wc 1 de-
serving men, made men think it
the higheft of recompences. Among
thofe tew, were Scipio, for having
overcome Antioehus : JEmilius
Lepidus for having, while he was
but yet a boy, freed a Roman
citizen in a battle : Metcltu for
faving the Palladium out of the
burning Temple of Vefta : Cornelia
for having turnifhed corn to the
people in a dearth, out of her own
moneys - , and fome few others.
Having thus feen the Capitol, I
went into the Noble Church of
Ara Cceli which isjoyning to the
Capitol upon the fame hill , and
built in the fame place where an-
ciently flood the Temple of Jupiter
Capitciinus ,Or Jupiter Ferarius.lictt
it was the Sibjlle (hewed unto Au-
£uj1us Ctfar, at the birth of our
Saviour, that a greater Lord than
he was born •, whereupon Avguf-
tus
C Italy 145?
nts forbad, that any man mould
call him Lord from that time for-
ward. In this Church is the Tomb
of % Helen Mother of Confiantm the
Great. ihehfout
Defending from hence by the^^™ 1
marble ltaires^ which arc a hundred
in all, and all fo large, that twelve
men in a breaft may go up at
once, I came to the Jefuits Church
and houfe called the CajaProfeJfa^
The Church is neat and capacious,
the Chappels well painted, and th«
ornaments in the Veftery Very rich.
Under the Altar where S. Igna-
tius his pidture is, lyes the body of
that Saint,Founder of the Order of
the lefuits. Near the high Altar on
the Gofpel fide is the Tomb of
Cardinal Bellarmin. In the houfe
of thefe Fathers I fa w the Chamber
of S. Ignatius, now turned into a
Chappehand a fair Library.
PafEng from hence, 1 lteptintoa s.Marlk
Pallace of S. M>^, belonging to the p a U*M.
ftate of Venice^ and the lodging
place alvyayes of the Venetian
Emhajfadors refusing in the Court
of K&me* This pallace, as alfo that
Gg 3 of
14 s
The Voyagi
of the CanceVaria* and that of Far*
xefe, are faid to have been built
oftheftones that were taken from
the great Amphitheater j and yet a
great part of it' remaines mil ) and I
I believe, as much as would make
three more fuch pallaccs.
From S. Marks Pallacc I went
towards the Mount Ghi'mnal now
called Monte CavaUoi and as I went,
pafild through that part of the town
which anciently was called Forum
Iraj/wi, and there favv that which
Trajan himfclf never faW, to wit,
< the wonderfull pillar of white
marble creeled there to Trapn, and
therefore called Cdomui frjjana but
■Sohntta never leen by him : for he dyed in
frajantf, forrain expeditions returning from
Perfia without ever feeing it. This
pillar is made of four and twenty
great ftones of marble, in which are.
carved trie exploits of Irjj.m,
cfpecially in his' W3rrcs againft the
Jpacians. Its a. hundred twenty eight
toot high, without its Ymt which
is twelve foot high. Within it there
are a hundred ( tourfcore and five
fiairs, which deliver you up to the j
top'
Of Italy 1491
top of ir, and there arc forty Iiltief
Avinciows which let in light enough
for you to go up. On the top of
all this pillar were anciently bury-
ed the allies of Traj'in the Empe-
rour: but Sixtttf Qttinttes caufed, in
p-lace ; of th'em, the ftatue in brafs
gilt- ef S- Peter to be fet up here.
Heretofore all the bafisSof it was
buryed under ground in the mines., ^
but now they hive digged about it£c
clearecHt i yet by this we may fee
how much the ftreets of .Roweare
. higher than they were, Rome now
being built upon the ruines of
Rome.
From hence going up the hill I
came to the Pallace and garden of
Mdobrandini. The hpufe is but f
little, yet neatly furnilhed with ^ P J'
ftatues and pictures. Some whereof Aid { r a*
are thefe : An old picture made dint.
in the time of the Pagans reprefent-
ing a marriage after the old Romans
faibion. I take this to be the an-
€tenteft picture in -Rome-, and the
raT-ify of it is fo great, that Caualkr
Pezzo (a brave Genlle'ftnn and a-
G g 3 great
i5# ThiVotasi
great Virimfo ) got leave to copy
k out, and this copy is to be feen
in the houfe of his brother, among
other rare curiofitics, near S. An-
ita della Valle. Next after this, I
was fhown in the forcfaid pallacc ,
the true pi&ure of Martin Luther : a
rare S Sebaft'unin the Ghappel, of
Raphaels hand : Upon the itairs a
ftatuc of a man hanging by the
hanals, with great ftones at his feet
weighing him down : a torment
much ufed by the heathens, and.
pra&ifed by them upon Chriftians i
with a world of other pictures and
ftatuesin the chambers.
Prom hence I went to Cardinal
Mazzarims Pallace, and there law
in the garden the famous picture
Ma.zz<$- of the Aurora made by GuidoRheni
- ». famous over all Rome. In the court
of this pallace 1 faw the beft rid-
ing Matters of Rome teach young
Gentlemen to ride the great horfe :
but I found them here far fhort
of the mafters in France^ both for
good horfes, and good fchoUars, and
graceful riding. In the fame Court
in
Thtpal-
Ute of
Of Italy i 51
in the furnmer evenings,they play ar
ballon, a manly exercife much ufed
in Italy, and far more gentile than
our rude football fport.
Neer to this pallace (land the & e Pcp»
Popes fhbles where I faw all the ft»His,
Genets that had been prefented to
the Pope, fincehis creation, by the
King of Spain for the Kingdom 'of
Naples -. every year one, with a purfe
of gold. The other horfes here were
only coach horfes i for when the
Pope goes any whither abroad upon
publkk ceremony, the Cardinals,
and Prelates upon Mules, and the
n©ble men of Rome upon their own
horfeSj wait upon him : and whea
he goes out of town his own horfe-
guards attend him.
From hence I was prefently in the q^^
Tiazza of MmecaVJllo , where I
faw the two famous horfes in
marble, with each one a man hold'-
ing him, they were fent to Nero for a
prefentby Tiridstes King of Arme-
nia. In the Pedeftal of thefe ftatues
are written under the one of them
Opt Fbidi<e : under the other,0/w
G g 4 Vraxitelk^
7%e Popes
$w*mtr
j-52 T Hi Voyage
Vraxitelis. Its faid that thefe twe
horfcs and men were made by thefc
two ancient Sculptors of Greece to
rtprefent Bxccfbilus and Alexan-
der the great. However thefe horfes
give name to this hill, and whereas
it was formerly called Mom §hiiri-
•nalis\ its now called Montccavallo.
Upon this hill flood anciently the
Ibtrmt Conftanuniana j or baths
of Conftantin the great , of which
there are i.eeh fome remnants in
the garden of QoUnna which lies
behind the wall of this Piazza-
Over againft the forefaid horfes
ftands the Popes pallace where he
ordinarily lives in Summer. The
houfe is a noble -ftru<fture, and the
rooms ftately : but I faw nothing
rare in them but thcmfelves. The
garden of this houfe is curious for
tine walks, ftore of fountains, and
the cool Crotta under great fliady
trees, where there are fine water-
works, &c an organ playing without
any fingers to touch it. Over againft
the backdoor of this garden iraads
the novitiate of the Jefuits, with
the neat new Church dc fine gardens.
Returning
Of Italy- 15-3.
Returning from hence, I ilept
into the Church of S. Sy!vejler ovQt^-Sflvef
againit the pallace of Mazzarini te * s
belonging to the lheatins\ and there
(aw the tomb of Cardinal Benti-
vaglia the modern Livy of Italy. The
garden here tiandingin a fair prof-
peel:, is very pleafant and delight-
fo me.
Dcfcending from hence by a pi I- St A . A „ .
vate ftreet , I went to S. Agatkmhus
Church hi the Saburra near the foot cbuub. .
a£ the Quirinal hill. The body of S*
Agatha lies under the altar. Be-
fore, the' door ot this Church, are.
fome ancient itatuesof little boye>
in the habit of a Pretext a, a habic
belonging to noblemens children.
From hence paffing by the Churh
of Madonna del Mmte ( a Church
of great devotion) I went up the
hill to S. fairs ad vincula '•> where S.Peters
I faw the famous Itatue of Mofe $.<*<* v ' nc **-
fitting. Its of white marble and /"•■
adorning the tomb of Julius Secun-
dus. Its enough to tell you, that it.
was made by Michael Aagelo , and
admired by all Sculptors. Heres
wear unto the door of the Church,
Sg 5 a*)
linoitk-
Heats
sdss.
%be piHar
at which
0ur a-
■viow
ions
154 Thi Voyage
an altar with the ftatue of 5. Sebaf-
thHyit the eroding ®f which, the
plague ceafed in Rome, faith Baro-
nous. In thefacrifty of this Church
I faw the chains in which S* Peter
wasfettered in prifon > and which
make this Church be called S. Peter
tidvincula.
£. Martim inMonte follows the
next, and is a neat Church now.
In a cave below there were two
Councils held by S. Silvefter in the
primitive times of perfecution , as
the words upon the wall as you de«
fcend into the cave, and Baroniuf^
tdtirie.Itsfaidthatin this place was
exercifed the rirlt publick profeffion
of Chilian religion.
Then the Church of S. Praxedes,
where I faw the pillar at which our
Saviour was whipped. Its a low
round pillar of fpeckled marble. It
ftanck within a little grate of iron,
The old writing over the door of
that Chappel- tells you that it was*
brought to- %ome from Hiemfalem
four hundred years ago by a Car-
dinal Colonm, In the midft of the
Church
Of Italy 15^
Church is a Well ( now covered )
where S. Praxedes hid the relicks
and bodies of Martyrs^ In an other
Chappel I (aw the picture of the
defcent of our Saviour from the
Crofs, made by Guid» In the Bel-
conies above in the pillars, I faw,by
fpecial favour, many curious relicks.
From hence I went to S. Mary
Mtiors Church, fo called becaule Sam* -
it is the.greatett of all the Churches Maria
of our Lady mRome. Its built upon ^21'"*
the Monu Efquilino, and upon the
place which was covered miracu-
lously with fnow upon the V of An* ' /
gnjh The hiftoiy of it is known by
thefolemn feafi in the Kalendar ,
called SanZia Maria adNives, and ;
it is expreiTed in the old Mofaick .
pictures which are fet here in the
wall over the pillars that bear up. >
the roof. The moft remarkable .
things I faw here, were thefe.
1. The tomb of the founder of *
this Church, Tatritiuj, whofebody -y
lies in a tomb of Porphyry near the
great door.
2. The noble gilt roof, er fcf- >
jt$6 Thi Voyage
fita, which was gilt with the firft.
gold that came out of the Indies
in Alexander the VI time , whofe
trms axe fet up in this rook
3. The Mofaick pictures which
suu along this Church containing
the hiftoryoftheoldand new Te£
lament, and the hiftory of the build-
ing of this Church.
4. The high altar under which
repofeth the body of S. Matthias
the Apoftle, whofe head is expofcd
upon the altar in a chryftal upon his
day.
5. The tomb of an EmbafTidor
of Congo to pauluiV.. Its over a-
againftthe ftatue in brafs of Vaulus
V. near the Saciifty.
6. The little back Court there
with the Eccho in the well, which
anfwers you indeid^but like a fharp
fcold, too quick and fhort.
2*» 7. The rare Chappel otSixws V.
aatpi*f m2i fc by VotmmcQ Fontana, which
jcoft (even hundred thoufand
'crowns. The molt famous actions
of Sixtus £nixtus , and otFitis Qxin-
tus, who macfe Sixtus Cardinal are
carved in white" marble round about
the
Of Italy 157
the Chappel. S. Hieromes allies arc
buried here in a tide Altar on the
S. Hiero~
mes t»mk
left hand : and where fliould we
look for S. H'urome, but near gu&t%* holy
Saviours crib? which is here enchafed Crib of
in chryftal in a low chappel under our ^ avi "
the high altar of this Chappel. Its ""
fhewn publicity upan Cnriftmafs
day. The Tabernacle of brals born
up by four Angels of brafs with one
hand, and holding each one a torch
in the other hand, is moll irately, rhe'ebap-
8. O.veragainit this Chappe!,ftands ptltf
the Chappel of Pauliti V.much \u^ Fau!tiir
the other in all things, except that
the chief altar ftands not in the
middle, but at the end of it. This
Altar is a very neat Contrivance,
and of as rich materials, r our gaat
Pillars of Jafper polifhed, adnncd
with Capitels and bafes of brafs
gilt, hold up the back of this altar
which is all of Lij-U L-zuli, or .
Oriental blew aznle ftonc \ in. the
midftof which is a lie. le Micbio in
the wall, where the pidture of our A M wrr
Bltffcd Lady with our. Saviour m°lj urB '
her arms, made by. &. Uk&, is m 'J,i 7
conferved and ken, This N'tchio s. Luke.
158 The* Voyage
is f unrounded with a row of rich
pretious ftones of great value fet
thick about it > and fhut up with
two little halfdoors, of two whole
Agates 3 each of them two foot long,
and a foot large. Theodoras Lefior
an ancient author makes mention
of this pi&ure , and faith , Pttl-
chert* , Ended* Imjginem Matrix
Chrifti) cuaru Lucas Apoftolus Pin-
xerat, Rierejolymu mi fu : That is:
Eudocii fent unto Tulckeria from
Hierttfakm the pidtureof the mother
rnitioeoU of Chrift which Luke the Apoftle
hSunec had painted.The picture it felf is
fbold, and placed fo high, that its
hard to perceive the lineaments of
the face , unlefs you fee it with a
wax taper at the end of a long
pole, as I did. In fine, this was
the picture which S.Gregory the great
a thoufand years ago , carried in
procefiion upon Eafter day, when he
faw over the Moks Adrian'^ an An-
gel (heathing his fword in fign
of the ceafing of the plague. The
roof or little Cupola of this Chap-
pel is painted by the hand oi Gui-
de JRJjtm of 'Bologna, The fide walls
thtoiov
Le&or in
rmv.
Of Italy. i^
&f this Chappel are of white mar-
ble cut in mezzo rilimo , and con-
taining the chief a&ions of C/#-
mtnt the VIII, and V aulas V,
whofe ftatues are alfo here in white
marble.
£. Without-the Church (land two
great Pillars at each end of it : the
one an Egyptian Guglia. cut with
Hieroglyphs i the other a Roman
Pillar taken out of the mines of
the Temple of peace which is of a
prodig'ous height, with the" ftatue
ot ©ur Saviour and our Lady upon it
in brafs guilt.
From S; Mary Mahrs I went
to the Church of S. Vita and Mo- ss.vita
defto. Its built near the mines of^^°"
the Triumphal ktc\\oi Caliems t)\t ^ e °^ rc ^
Emperor. The great keys that arc 6 f Galit?
nailed to the top of that forcfaid nnm.
Arch, were the Keys of the City
Tnfcxlttm^now called FreJ'cate ) and
hung up here in memory of a vic-
tory won. over, that Town, under ;
Honorim the v s almoft five hun-
dred years ago.
From hence I went to the Church s. k*/«^
«f S. Emetic built upon the ruines w».
•f
v6o The Voyage
of the 'Xbermx ef the Emperor Gor*
dianoy and hispallace, whofe eourt
had fifty pillars on every iade.Near
unto this Church were found the
Trophies of Mariw, which I fpoke
of above in the Capitol.
Continuing on my way, I came at
Croce in ^ a ^ t0 Santa Croce in Jcruj'alem. Its
fiierufa- oneoit the feven Churches of Rome,
k»w. and built by the Emperor Conftantin
the great. It Hands near the Walls
of the Town in the end of the
See Baro- mount Cdluts. Hard by it appear
tutu m fome prints of the Temple of Venus
'", u " and Cupid y which the faid Empe-
ror ruined, to build a Church in
the place of them in honour of t he
holy Crofs, and fo repair the injury
which the Inhdels had'doneto the
Holy Crofs in Hierufa)em, by
placing the (tatue of Venus upon
mount Calvary, and ftriving to blot
out the name of Mm Ca : vme ,
and bring in that of MontVem.rie.
This Church is called Santa Croce
in Hierufjiern, becaufe of the earth
of Mwnt Calvarie , which was
brought from Hierufalem and laid
here,
OfI-Talt t4l
here. The things I obfervedhere,
werethefe. /
i. The painting in the Tribune
or roof of the quire, containing the
hiitory of the exaltation of the holy
Crojs. It looks like the painting
of Fietrs Pemgino, or fome of his
fchollars s and it was thought fine
work, before Raphael raifcd paint-
ing to a greater height.
2. The Chappel below where the
holy earth fent by S. Helen from
Hierufahm , to her ion Conftantin
the Emperor, was put.
t. The relieks in the Sacrifty
above, to wit, three pieces of the
Holy Crofs => one of the nails of the
Crofs of our Saviour i two thorns
cf the holy Crown of thorns ; si
great piece of the title of the holy
Crofs,a finger of S.Thomai the ApoP***
tie - , and one of the thirty pieces of
money for which our Saviour was
fold.
Not far from hence ftands the
Church of.W<* BiHana. This^ B '^
Church Hands ia the place called
anciently
S. Lau-
rence bis
Cbnnh*
162 The VotAgi
anciently Vrfa Pileata, becaufe of
the ftatue of a Bear with a hat on,
which fiood there. This place is
alfo famous for the Church yards
fake, or Cjemefer'wm^ called, inter
etnas /rfzwur.Hereis Tome good pain-
ting' in this Church, of Campelli ,
and Fietro Cmonefe, The ftatue of
the Saint is of Bcnrinis hand.
« From hence I found a way that
led me to the gate of S- Laurence ,
through which I went to the church
of that Saint called San Lorenz*
fursri delle muta by reafon of divers
others built ia honour or that Saint
within the walls. This Church was
built by Confiantin too, & enriched
by him with many pretests and or-
naments. It was built upon the
Qxmeterinm Sand* Ciriac£, where
that holy woman ufed to bury the
bodies of the Holy martyrs. It fhnds
in the Via TihuHwa, and is one of
the feven Churches of Rome* and
one of the five Pairurcbal Churches ,
and therefore is not titular of any
Cardinal. The things that I faw
here, wercthefe.
Of It alt \6%
i. The Tomb of S. Lanrmee ,
2. Behind the High altar the
flone upon which the gridiron flood,
upon which S.Lawtnee was broiled.
Its covered with a great glafs
through which you fee it.
5. In the roof of this Church I
found thefe words* cut in great Let-
ters of wood S Quam clarificzia eft
Hierofolyma Stephano , tarn ihtftrit
fatta eft Roma Lanrentio^ taken out
of S. Leo in his fermon upon the feaft
of 5. Laurence.
4. The Gatacombcs under this
Churchy where many Saints bodies
were buried anciently.
Returning again into the town § £«*«-
I ftept into S. Antonles Church and «;*.
Hofpital, near to g. MaryMal»rss
before which Church ftands a pillar
with a crofs upon it, erected here
upon the converfion of Henry the
IV. of France.
Failing behind S. Mary Maiors , y.p a ^^
I went to Santa Pudentianaf Church tianx*
ftanding in the ancient ftreet called
Vitus Patricim, This Church was
built upon the place where the houfe
164 The Votage
of Pudensa. Senator and father of S.
c Tudentianj>\\vc&. And here it WiSf
that S. Teter^ at his firit coming to
S.ironim R n mt, lodged, having converted?
aian.^ this Vudens and his two daughters
Pudenthna and Praxedes* Here I
faw thefc things.
i. The dry .well into which S.
Vudentiana put mmy Relicks of
Martyrs to conferve them.i looked
into it with a hghted taper/let down
in a ft ring i and -few many curious
relicks desked up in the Gde ,of the
wall.
2. The wooden altar upon which
S- Peter hid -,-mate at: his being
here.
3. The two marble ftatues of our
Saviour and S-, Peter. They are both
excellently wcllciit,-and- perchance
by rare Qlivieri.
4. The neat Chappel of thcCa'e-
tani, with the back oi the altar in'
white marble curioufly cut by Qli-
vieri in a bajfo rilitub , reprefenting
the adoration of the A/agi.
Near the high altar, is the pre-:
ture of the forementioned Senator
tudens-t in his Senators robes.
From
0? It A LT 16$
From hence I went to S. Lorenzo
mPanifferna, Here it was that S.S.Lan-
Laurence was broylcd upon the r ' nz ° t iu
gridiron by the command or the Jt
Emperor Peci/tf whofepallace flood
where this Church now ftands.Upon
the wall of this Church is painted
the martyrdom of S. Laurence in
Frefco. Here lye buried the bodies
ot S, Bridgit a Holy Virgin cf $cot-
Un&\ and of the Cardinal Sirletw.
Going from hence by a little.un-
freqtKiited ftreet running under the
foot of MontecavaU^ I came to the
Church of S. Vitalis which ftands St vital*
joined to the garden of the Jefuits
Nmitiaf. Its faid that the Temple of
Gjhiirinus ,or Romulus Rood hereand
that it was here that Proculus fwore
he faw Romulus after his death,who
bid him go tell the Romans, that he g
would be adored by them under the
name of ^ulrir.us : when indeed it
was thought that the Senators had
torn him in pieces in the Senate See P/k-
houfe, and carried away under their tarc!}%
gowns every one a piece of himyand
finding the people to mutter much
at
font aw,
isut*
M»ritt
delta Vit,
166 TheVotagi
at his not appearing, had got this
Troculus to depofe as above •, and
(o quieted the people, who are as
eafily pacified again with a vain
tale, as itirred up with a fond ru-
mour.
From henec I went to the Q^atr»
Fontane, Winch itand at the head
of four ftreets wnich meet here.
Theft fouutains itfuc out from four
/fatues wf.ich lie here in cumbent
polturcs i and they were nude here
by Lepidns.
Then following that fair ftreer, I
went to Santa Maria d«Ha Vittoria'
fo called from the victory won in
the battle of Prague. The flags and
cornets taken in this battle are (et
round about the Church. In one
of the flags over the door, I found
Crofs Keys, Cardinals Gaps, Miters
and Priefts cornerd caps aJl turned
topfy turvy, with this Angle motto,
Extirpentor Here are very neat
Chappels efptcially that on the left
hand, where is feen the reprefen-
tation of S. 7enfa wounded by a
Sirtphia* Its an admirable piece
of
Or Italy \6j
©f 'Bernini. In the convent you fee
painted in a Sala , the battle of
frague , and in the Sacrifty a (epul-
cher of our Saviour all of Ivory ex-
traordinarily well wrought.
Before the door of the foreiaid
Church, fhnds the great fountain,
called Font ana ¥>li e , where the
Aquedud of Sixtus H*>wus ( who
before his affumption to Ecclefiafti-
cal dignities, was called in his Mo-
naftery Fr a Felice ) disburdened it
felf into a gre.it Hone bafin , and
from thence is carried into divers
parts of the town.
From hence I went to the garden
of MontaltO) which is hard by.
This is one of the beft gardens \nrf*g** m
Rome y and therefore delerves well- ^J-J^
to be feen.
At your entrance into it, you fee
a round table of a blewifa ftone ,
upon which the arms of the houfc
of Mmtaltozxc engraven, at which
while you gaze curioufly and near
at hand, the girdiner, by preffing
his foot upon a low iron pump under
the table preifeth out water on all
fides of that round tak>le, and wel-
comed*
i6o* The Voyage
cometh the ftrangers that come f
fee his garden.
Then mounting into the little Pal-
lace near the door, I faw divers
good pictures & tlatues,of the houfc
of Montalto, and others. There alfo
I faw a wooden organ, pipes 8c all,
and yet of no ungrateful found.
There alfo I faw the picture oWa-vid
killing Goliath'. It turns upon a
frame, & (hews you both the fore-
fide of thofe combatants, and their
backfides too , which other pictures
do not. Here are curious Urns; the
true bttjlo oiSixtut V.a tabernacle of
rich (tones. There is a picture in
(tones of feveral colours which held
one way, reprtfents nothing but a
hunch of herbs h but- held up an other
waVjit reprefents a mans bed deface.
In fine here ism this little pallace,a
neat Library in a cool room, over
the door of which 3 on the inlide, are
written thefe words Medicitia ani-
mi-i as if Libraries were nothing
but phyGck gardens for the mind.
Defcending again into the garden
I (aw (lore of wetting fports, and
waterworks, moft curioully contri-
ved'.
OrlTALT ity
vcd ; and moft ftately walks. From
hence he went to the Carthufians ,
Church which is hard by. This
Church and Monaftery arc built up-
on the ruines of the baths of Dio-^y .
ektian. For this cruel Emperor with c fDiorit~
his atfTociate Maximta*, condemned »*>»,
forty thoufand Chriftians to work
in this building for the fpace of 15
years together, and afterwards
condemned many thoufands of
them to death for their religion »
Thus men work for Tyrants. But
fuch is the wonderful providence
of God.Churches of Chriftians now
ftand where Chriftians were con-
demned to death and torments. The
blood of thefe martyrs was but the
feed of Chriftians and when Diocle-
tian condemned Chriftians to work
here, mcthinks he did but bid them
go lay the foundation of a monafte-
ry tor Carthufians , and of a Church
for the worfliip of that Godhefo
much perfecuted.
Having feen this Church and mo- **'?•??,
"aiteryj went to fee the Popes gra^"""'"
n aricS } vaft buildings two ftoiies
high, amdalwaies full of wheat for
H h tht
-k
170 TheVoyagi
prefent ufe of the whole City. A
world of officers and overfeers be-
long to thefe Granaries, and are
alwaies turning over, and keeping
the vaft heaps of wheat from fpoyl-
ing and corrupting. By (ticking up
eanesin the heaps of wheat, they
can tell , fmelling at the ends of
thefe canes,whether the wheat begin
to moiften and corrupt, or no, and
accordingly give order either to
turn it, and airf it , or prefently
to give it out to the bakers: Thefe
Granaries were alfo built upon the
- ruines of Viodotians baths.
chunb of From thefe Granaries I went to
s.Agms. the town gate not far off, called
Forta ?ia, and from thence ftreight
along for a good mile, to S. Agnefes
Church. Under the high altar
repofeththe body of that tender Vir-
gin, who being as innocent as her
name, fuffered martyrdom at thir-
teen^ nd triumphed over the world
before (he could know it.
Clofc by ftands the Church of S.
Conftantia an other holy primitive
Virgin. Here I faw the famous
Tomb, commenly called Bacchus
his
Of Italt 171
his tomb, but faily, feeing it was
the tomb of S. Conttantia. It? a
vaftarea, cr cheft of one Porphyry
ftone, above half a foot thick, and
fix foot long, Its all cut on the
outfide with sl hajfo riliem in a moft
admirable manner.
From hence crofling over the fields, Bm .^f tS
I went to Burg-befit Villi and gar- y,u 0m
den, which are a little half mile
from the Town. This is the great-
eft ViUa that's about Rome. For here
you have itore of walks, both open
and clofc, rifli ponds, vatt cages for
birds, thickets of trees, itore of foun-
tains^ park of deer,a world of fruit
trees, ftatues of all fizes, banquetting
phces.Grottat, wetting fports, and a
iiately pallace adorned with lb ma-
ny rare ftatues & pictures, that their
names make a book in oUavo^ which
I refer you to. As for the pallace it
felf its compaffed on both fides by
a fair demicircle of ftatues, which
ftand before the two doors, like old
Fenates and Lara. The wall of the
houfeisovercruftedwith a world of
AnticaUie^ or ©Id marble pieces of
antiquity: as thatof Curtius fpurring
Hh 2 into
172 Th* Voyage
into the Vorago : that ©f fLuropa
hurryed away by Jupiter become a
bull,with a world offuchlike fables.
Entring into thehoufe I faw divers
rooms full of.curiofities.
In the great hall ftands the ftatue
of Diana in Oriental alabatter ,
which was once a Deity adored by
Auguftus Ctfar. Here alfo hang two
great pi&ures, the one reprefenting
a Cavalcata when the Pope goeth
abroad in ceremony j the other a
Cavakata -when the great Turk
goeth abroad in pomp.
2. In an other room ftands the
ftatue of one of the famous gladia-
tors ancientiy, who fought alone a-
gainft twenty others, and being
wounded to death feems to threaten
with his looks all his beholders. Its
terribly well made.
3. In one of the chambers above,
is the head in Frofile of Alexander
the great cut in marble*
4. In an other room below I faw
the ftatue of Seneca bleeding to
death. Its of a black (lone like Jeat,
than which nothing can be blacker
but the crimes otNero the Idagiftri-
e ide,
Of iTALr J7'5
tide, who put this rare maHhis ma-
fler to death.
5. The (Utile alfo of Vaphne^ni
Apollo in alabafter; Apolk running
after Daphne, and (he ftiffening into
a tree being overtaken : her fingers
(hooting into branches, and her toes
into roots, are admirably well done.
It muft be Berninis work.
6. The ftatue alfo of MneM car*
lying his old father Anchifis upon
his back out of burning 'troy* The
young man is brawny and ftrongjthc
old man is made lean and weak : as
alfo the young man (hews a great
deal of tender arfe&ion towards his
father, and the father as much fear
in his looks.
7. The ftatue alfo of David flings
ing at Goliath. He frowns fo terri-
bly as he flings , that you would
fwear he intends to fright him with
his looks, and then kill him with
his lling. The fe two laft ftatues are
alfo of the hand of Cavalier Bernini*
8. In an other chamber above I
faw the great chair which loclvth
fait any man that fitteth down
Hh £. ia*
Ma Aon-
tin del
P opuh.
174 Th E V OT-AGI
in it. It's Said to be a chair of re-
venge, or a trap-chair for an enemy:
but me thinks it would be a fine
chair for a reftlefs fiudent > or a
gofllping wife.
I faw here alfo fome toycs for
young men » as the clock which
being wound up playeth a tuneable
dance, and little men and women of
iron painted handlomely, dance in
a ring to that tune by vertue of the
wheels. The fools paradife repre-
senting fiiit a fine green garden of
flowers, then a paliace, and laftly a
neat Library, is made alfo to t ecre-
ate children.
Returning from this Villa by the
back door which leadeth to the
Porta del Pepulo , I ftept into the
Church of Madonna del Popn-
lo. This Church hath been
much beautified of late by Pope
Alexander the VII, becaufeof fome
of his ancestors buried here. Here
I faw the famous itatue of Jonas
made by the command of Raphael
Vrbin, who fhewed thefculptors of
his time how perfectly he poffeffed
the
OfItal? 175
theory offculpture, if he would but
have dirtyed his fingers with that
dirty art. In a Chappel near the
Gofpel fide of the High Altar, I
faw a good picture of the hand of
Gn'id) %Joenu Where now the
highAkarrtands 3 itood anciently the
tomb of Nero.
Going on from hence on the left
hand, towards the Piazzadi Spig-
- <*, I firft patted by the great Gugli<*> X
or Egyptian pyramid carved all over
with Hieroglyphs. Its looked upon
by three Greets, and fcen afar off.
Thenpaffing a little further, I came
to the GreekChurch and Col ledge, 2*« Gm\
where upon certain daies , I faw c<? ^£'«
their ceremonies,and heard the mafs
fung in Greek after the Greek man- ,
ner. Thefe Grecians are in union
with the Roman Church and have
a Seminary of young ftudents of
their country maintained by the
Pope to retu ntj their country in
lT1 f' on ' . r IbeVi*
Mounting from hence on the left eftfo
hand to the top of the hill by the*"**
coach way, I went into the Villa Dtt}( ?
Hh 4 of
i
Jj6 T RR Voyage
of the great Duke, where I faw the
neat garden with fountains, two or
three bsge veflels of marble , and
ftore of Itatues both in the pallace,
and in the long gallery. That of
the two gladiators wreftling : that of
the clown whetting his fithe and
hearing the cenfpirators of Catalim
(peaking of their confpiracy, which
he difcovered, is one of the beft
pieces of fculpture in Rems. That
of Cupid and Venus are admirable.
From the chamber window of this
pallace you have a perfect fight of
Rome under you. In the garden
there is a little Guglia^ with many
other curiofities.
Going out from this garden by the
back door, I crofled over the ftreet,
.and was prefently at the back door
ViUa Lu- alfoof the Villa L*^w//?4-,belonging
Jovifia. to the Prince Ludovifio. This VilU
ftands in excellent air being feat"
ed high. There are two houfes
in this garden and both furnilhed
with "exqaifite rarities. That which
(Unds near this backdore afforded
me theft, curiofities A rare pi&ur/e
of
bo4
0f Italy lyy
of the ^Virgin* Af.*ry made by 'Guieh
Rbe*i.\ts the belt pi&ure of her
that ever I faw. A rich Cabinet with
the picture of Pope Gregory the XV
in nCatneo, and other rich (tones
adorning it. A neat little clofet full
of divers rarities •, as a true Hydras
skin with feven necks : a petrified
fungus : the true pidure of Francis
the rirft or F/v»»«>with that alfoof
his Phyfician, both made by Lau-
renzo Vinci, and efteemed rare
pieces, with many other little cu-
rioficies. In an other room, the
heads in white marble, of Gregoey
the XV, and his nephew Cardinal
Ludovifio. A chamber full of curious
glafTes. Upon the flairs a little Cupid
i'& load en with. a quiver of arrows,
that an other little Cupid is forced to
hold them up behind him. But that
which is the moft rare thing in this
Villa,- or perchance in any in Kcme ,
is the incomparable bedftead which
is feen in one of the. chambers of
this p alia ce. Its all of pretious (tones
and valued at a hundred thoufand
erowns.The four beeffofts are all of
Hh 5, Oriental.
lyd Tut Voyage
Oriental poliftied Jafper. The reft
of it,is of other rich ftones : but the
head of it exceeds far the reft for
riches and art, efpecially the midft
of it, where the arms of the family
of Lttdwifio are curioully fet in rich
/tones of fevera 1 colours according to
the colours of the coat of arms.
Here you have bunches of grapes ,
fome redjfome white, but all of rich
Jftones. Here are vaft Ametbyjhj one
fquare,an other round in pyramidal
form. Here Phaeton in his Chariot
in a Cameo-, with the wheels of his
Chariot of pretious /tones i and a
world of fuch rich work, which
makes this bedftead the nonplus of
art and magniricencf.I do not know
for all thal,why beds fhould be made
of ftones though pretious ones. If it
be for the Princefs of this houfe to be
brought to bed in, it portends unto
her a hard labour : if to lodge in it
the everlafting fame of the greatnefs
of this family it is a vain labour i
feeing pretious ftones willmoulter
away ift tirrje, as other ftones do,
€)mn\» mort.ilia mortalitati damnais,
lot
Of Italy \jm
For my parf,thebeftufe I know for
it,is, to lay the petrified man in,
whom we (nail find prefently in the
other pallace of this Villa : jbeds of
itone are fitted for men of ftone.
Hard by this houfe, ftand the
fountains and waterworks, which
with their fhady trees, correct t\\t
hotteit beams of the Italian Sun, and
afford unto the owner of this ViVa^
rain and clouds of his own at will ,
even in June and July.
From hence croffing through the *? e
garden, I went to 'the other houfe fe£
that ftandsin it, where I was (hewn
in the feveral chambers many cu-
rious things : as, two brave old gla-
diators in ftone fitting down : four
ore pieces of Guido Rbeni, to wit a
S. Francis, a Lttcretia, a Juditb,iiid
a converfion of S. Paul : Divers cu-
rious pi&ures of the hand of Titiany
Raphael ., Michel Avgdo , Carracc'fo
and others : a rare head in marble of
Scipio Affrkanus'. the head of Seneca
in bujio of great value. Cicero's head
alfo in buj\o : fome rich tables of
inlaid ftones; the lilttle boysin Ivory
greater
tBff Tki.V^otagi
greater than I thought it poffible for
Ivory to have furnimed : two rare
Apollotin white marble •> the oracle
of Porphyry which fpoke once i
theftatue of an old gladiator dying
of his wounds in a great fquarc hox
lined with velvet. I faw the body of
a petrified maryhat is, a man tun>
A'Pitri- ed into ftone. One piece of the leg
fyndmaH.^ broken to affure an embaiTadour
doubting of the verity of the thing)
{hewed me plainly both the bone
and the (tone crufted over it. The
head and the other parts lye jumbled
wp together in the box. If you ask
me, why they do not put this body
ante feme tomb to bury ir, I anfwer
you, that it needs no other tomb
than this cruft of ftone. Indeed I
never faw a body fo neatly en tombed
as this : you would fwear that this
tomb is a pure Jujiaucor^s rathe*
than a tomb : it tits as clofe as if a
Taylor had made if. . And (hat you
may not think \t an impoffrble thing
- "!?'!" that men (hould be thus pet ryfied, I
in Tab, _ , , , rt ,- r • 1
Geogratb ronft mtod you what.0/*e/w iaitn.
SLvjji* -that upon the mountains fit.uated in
the
Of Italy iti
the Weftern parts of Tartary are
feen figures of men, cammels, fheep
and other heaits, which by an admi-
rable mctamorphofify were changed
into itones about three hundred Arifi»t a
yeares ago. And AtijhtU himfclf
*-^'*'
(peaks of mea petrifyed in the hoi- f, *°*
lovr cave of a mountain near Perga-
mus. In an other chamber ftands a ;
great clock of brafs guilt, as tall as a ■«
maniSc it ftands indeedjfor I think it
hath not gone fince it went out of
Germany to Rome.They tell us pietty
things that this clock did, when it
was yongijbut now it cannot fomuch ■
as ttir its hand : thus Time ea-
rners at lafi, its ownHeraUs > and
breaketh the clocks by which we
know her. In an other, chamber of
this houfe I faw a new flatue in pure
white marble, of the rapt of Profet-
pina : its ofthe hand of Bernini. In .
an other room I faw the rare (Utue
of C$'m Mmus killing, himftlf
with his dagger, upon fight of his
dead daughter who had killed her
felf for fear offalling.into.the hands
ofaluftfull Empaour* Defending
from, ,
Ttht Capu
.fins.
182 The Voyage
from hence into a long low Gallery
of ftatues I found here forne very
good ones, as that of Junius Brutus^
of Nero, of Vomitian Sec But the
beft thing I faw .there was the head
oWlympiat, (mother of Alexander
the great) in a bajforilievj^ and in a
frame.
Going out of this Villa by the
great door behind the Caputins^ I
itept into the Church of the faid
Capucins, & faw there in the fecond
Chappel on the left hand, the tomb
of Santo Felice^ Lay brother of this
Order, famous all Kcweover for his
known fan&ity. Here lyes alfo
buryed Cardinal Antonio Barberino
brother to Pope Urban the VIII ,
otherwife called Cardinal Sanf
Onofrio- who having been long a
Capncin^ was made Cardinal by his
brothers expreffe command » and
t>eing Cardinal lived RWlaGapHcw
in the efteem of all that knew him.
His humility would not fo much as
let his name befet upon his tomb-
ftonc j butinfteadof it, and his other
'titles, I found ©ncly thefe words,
bit
Faitctzw
Of Italy. j§|
hie jacet umbra, cinis-, nihil. This
Cardinal, and Cardinal Mazat
made by Clemtit the VIII, are all
the Cardinals that theCapmins Or-
der hath had.
Over againft the Cafucim ftaids *■«»,
the Pallace of the family otBarberwi
poiTefTed now by the Prince of ?<*-
kftrina of that family. This is one of
the nobleft Pallaces in Rome, for its
ftately fituation upon a hills fidetfor
the two neat ftaircafcsi the noble
painting in the roof of the great hall
by Pietro di Cartona j the world of
ftatuesand pictures in the Gallery \
the rare fequens of chambers one
going into an other fthe double ap-
partimenti, each Capable to lodge
any king in ; and each rarely furniuh- .
cd •, in fine, for the Tare Library of
Cardinal Francefco Barhrino.
Defcending from hence towards
the Minims o£ Trim: a di Monte, I
ftept iwto a little Church of Spanifh
AugujUns called Santo llkfmfo , SMt*
which I cannot pafs by without/ '*/ *
taking notice of, becaufe I think no
feody elfe doth,it is fo little: yet hav-
ing
I
The Voyage
tht Itai ln & defcribed the greateft Church of
chttnb Kome(S: Peters) fo exa&lyil cannot
in Kome but fay fomething of the leait church
in Rome : dwarfs are men as well as
_^ Gyantsiand though this Churchmay
~ feem rather to be a map,ormodel of
a Church, thana true Church, yet
feeing it hath not onely all the /i-
neaments , features^ and meen of a
Church, but alfo all the noble parts
of a Church, as High Altar, iide
Chappels, Cupola* Quire &c. I
fear not to call it a Church, though
for bigntfs > it would not make the
efTrinits From hence I went (freight on to
di JfouttAhc Minims of Ix'inita di Mo»*e be-
longing to France and 5. Franojs of
Paulas Order. This Convent is.the
heft feated of any in Kokand oneof
thenobleft, being founded by- king
Lixvis the XL of France* overlook-
ing all K<ww«, and looked upon
- eciproca!!y by the beft places in
Rome. In the Church I faw divers
good pieces: as the Aflumptionof
our Lady by Zuecari : the picture of
the taking down of our Saviour
from
tiazto
Op J T A LIT \%$
from the Crofs, by Raphael : the
picture of our Saviours appearing to
S. Mary Magdalen , by Julio Ro-
mano Raphaels Scholar, and imitat-
ing very much in this picture, Ra-
phaels colour?. See in the dormitory
of this Convent the curious per-
fpe#iveof S. Francis of ?;/«/<*, and
a rare funn dyaL ingenioufly con-
trived.
Dcfcending from hence into the disp*g»*
Pia&z* di Spagna, I faw the foun-
tain of the (hip, which in fummer
nights they let over flow, to coal
the Piazza and the neighbouring
ftreets. In this Piazza ftands the
Pallace of the Spdnifb Embajfador ,
belonging alwayes to him who is
Ewbaffador here. In the end of the
Piazza ftands the Colledg de Pre*
paganda fide, of propagating the %%* iodt
Faith, founded by Vrban the VIII 2J£
to maintain divers ftudents of the fid t ,
Eaftern cOnntryes,and even oi India
and Ethiopia too, who having finilh-
ed their ftudies in this Colledge,
are fent back again to their fe vera 1
countries with great profit and ad-
vantage to thofe poor InJidels who
would.
1&6 The Voyage
would fit full in the darknefs of
infidelity, were it not for the Popes
care and Charity.
tomma f rom hence I (leered to the Pi-
' azza ot the Font ana rJc Trcvi-, and
in my way, faw divers Itately pal-
laces inhabited by Cardinals , be-
caufe they Hand near the Foot of
Montecavallo where thePope reiides.
This Fountain of Treve is not yet
finidied as to the ltmcture that was
intended •■> but oneJy the water is
Brought hither, and in that quan-
tity, that it feems to make three
little rivers,at the three mouths out
afcjft.-ofwtoch'itgufheth.
rouites From hence I went nearer unto
CiBtdgi. the foot of the hill MontecavaVo,
and ftept into the Colledge of the
Maremtes 3 in whofe Church , I
heard them finging Mafs in their
own language, and after their own
rites, as the Chriftians of Mount
Libanus have immemorably ufed to
do. Their language is Arabic^
and they have alwaycs kept them-
felves free from bereftes V and in
Union with the Romm church thefe
500 years.
From
Of Italy 187
From hence I went to the Church ^
of the SS. Apojhli built in honour^ '
of the twelve jpoftles by Conjiantin
the Great, who in honour of thofe
holy Apojlks, earryed out of the
foundation twelve baskets of earth
upon his own (houlders. In this
Church lye buryed S. Philip and Ja-
«ob two Apoflks. In the Piazza be-
fore this Church,ftand four fine pal-
lacesithat of the Prince Cobnnajhzt
of Cardinal Gbifh that of Cardinal
Sforza, and that of the Signori Mutt.
Crofling from hence into the
Corfo I took an exadt obfervation
of this llreet, which is the faireft Wfll ^
in Rome. Its called the Corfo ,
becaufe here it is that they make
horfes run againft hor fes , Jews
againft Jews, boyes againft boyes,
and the like, in Carnival time.
Here alfo it is, that the Mafcarsdcs
march in Carmval time, andmakt
themfelves and others merry : and
all this is allowed the Italians
that they may give a little vent to
their fpirits which have been fiifkd
in for a whole year, and are ready
clfe to choke with gravity and me-
lancholy >
I&8 The Voyage
lancholy j moil men here living
alone in their houfes and chambers.
If our Scatefmen in England had
gone on in the courfe their wife
anceftours had fhewed , and had
fufiered, as they did, fome honett
recreations to the people, as bowl-
ing, (hooting, racing &c, to give
vent to their a&ive fpirits, we had
all been happyer : but while both
the Tribunals , and the Pulpits
thundered out againft moderate
recreations and aflemblyes, out of
fear and faction, they made the
humour of the Englifhmen grow fo
fowrand bitter,that nothing would
pleafe them, but fiat rebellion, and
fanatick herefies. Now here in
Kerne, once a year , In Carntval
time every" one vents his- humour
according to his fancy > and (as it
feems} according to his need. One
piayes the Dodar of the Law, and
goes up and down the Greets with
his book in his hand difputing
with every man he meets and utter-
ing pure raillerie : and if by chance
two fuch Doctors meet, they make
fpott enough for half an hour by
their
Or Italy igo
their abufing one another.. Four
of thefe pretended Dolors • with
their gowns and caps on* and their
books of the Codex before them ,
got an Afs into their coach who
hadalfo another book before him i
and thus they went along the ftreets
ftudying and turning over their
books. Another takes himielf to
be a grand Cyrus-, and goes a horfe-
back with a rich Perfian habit and
Plumes highly mounted. One went
a foot gravely with a cloak on ,
and cryed a fecret againft mice,
and opening his cloak , (hewed . a
cat that he had under his arm ;
another went up and down the
fkeet combing his hair like a
Spaniard faluting the Ladies and
twirling up his mufiaches with a
flayed gravity. Somego in coaches
and there play on inftruments ;
others go ongreat carts, with little
ftages of boards thrown upon them,
and there act little plays as they
go along, and abufe tradefmen. One
rides like a Phyiician upon a mule
with a world of Urinals hung
round about him, Others ride grave-
I
190 The Voyage
ly through the ftreets with great
cloakbags behind them as if they
came from Folonia. Some Princes
here make glorieus Garros, with 4
horfes on abreaft drawing them ,
and with rare Pageants upon them,
and a great train of horfemen and
trumpeters clad exotically, accom-
panying the Carro in a moft glo-
rious manner. Some noblemen of
higheft quality,as Dukes, and Prin-
ces, I have feen going a foot pelting
with (ugar plums thofe that were in
coaches and windows h and anger-
ing them with their (ugar affronts.
But never did any Majcaradeplafh
like that fpeculative Italian who
mocked both the French and the
Spaniards at once by walking up
and down the ftreetclad half like
a Don, and half like a Monfieur.
One fide of his hair hung down 111
a long curled lock powdered white:
the other fide was black andfweaty.
Half of his beard was turned down-
wards: the other half was turned
up with irons and twirled in like
the hilt of an old dagger. Ctae eye
was
Of Italy iqi
was bare and the other had a glafs,
or half fpe&aclc before it held on
by a fmall wire from under his hat.
Half his hat was a narrow three-
fingered -brim'd hat , with a little
kalf feather upon the brim : the
other half of it was a broad brim
without fo much as a hat band. One
half of his band about his neck was
of a broad bonelace ftarched white:
the other half was made of courie
lawn ftarched blew and Handing
out upon a pickydilly of wire. Half
of his face looked white with meal
and powder ; the other half looked
black and tawny. Half of his doub-
let was white fatin with an open
fleeve and a world of fhirt huffing
about his wrirt and half of his waft:
the other half was of black freeze
with a black taffety fleeve clofeand
ftrait to the arm, and a hanging
fleeve of freeze. One half of his
breeches was of fearlet, and raftly
wide at the knee, with a confuiion
of ribbansd* of fix colours: the other
half was of black taffety clofe at the
knee. Upon one leg he had a lin-
nen
1-6 1
The Votagi
nen flocking with a great laced
canon turned down to his half leg ;
on the other he had a black filk
ftockin drawn up clofe. In fine,
on one foot he had a white fpanifh-
leather (hoe, with a (tiff knot of
fix coloured ribband a quarter of an
ell long : on the other a little black
flat foled (hoe tyed with a ftiort
narrow ribband. Thus this moral
Hermaphrodite and walking Em-
blem of peace between the two na-
tions, walked up and down the
Gorfe gravely ; yet laughing within
himlelf, to fee how he carried
about him two fuch Antipathetical
nations in one fuiteof cloths. By
this you may guefs at their ether
fooleries in Carneval time, and fee
how innocently they divert them-
(elves: for you muft know, that
none are fuffered to carry fwords or
arms while they go masked thus j
not to enter into any houfe ; nor to
be abroad masked after it grows
dark i nor to do , or fpeak any
thing fcandaloufly that may fhok
civility or publick view; for which
reafon
O p ITALT ICJ5
reafon here are alwayes guards Cet,
and fergeants riiing up and down
the ftreet of the Corjo, to keep
all in order , and to make even
mirth obierve decency.
In this ftreet alfo of the Corfo it is
that noblemen and Ladies take the
ayre every fair evening in their
coaches. For this reafon there arc
| many fine pallaces built in this
I ilreet •, as the Pallace of Signor Vi-
tcllefcbi) where Ifaw ten chambers SomePaU
on a floor, and all of them filled Iaces *»
with a rare collection of pi&ures 8c ,he9er l 9 -
itatues. Among the ftacues I was
plea fed exceedingly with that of
Cincintutus-, and with that otBmtHf
defaced by the command of the
I Senate, where the very markes of
[the punches of the Hilbards
•wherewith they defaced it, are yet
-feen. Not far from it (lands the
paflace of Pren&ft pjmV.io., in
which Ifaw more riches and rare tf# p*l-
| furniture than in any houfe in Rome l*c* °f
lor-almoft in Italy, For here ^^'^
they (hewed me excellent plate of
[gold and fiivcr ; an Agate .Croflc
I i fixed
195 The-V'ot-agi*
upon afoot of the root of Sapbjr-
jloue, and under it. a balls beiet
roundwith Camtos cut into pictures:
a-greatfilver Crucirix upon an tbe-
ny frame, the whole worth 12000
crownes : a rare cabinet with the
.picture of our blelTed Lady in ic-, the
whole valued at 6oco crownes : a
fword whofe hilt is of three great
Turky (tones of great Value : a bafm
cfgo'd fet thick with Turky (lones :
three or four great Bezoars ftones as
big as pearmants, which had been
prefented to Clement the VIII
trom all parts becaufe he flood im
need of them: a rich mitre fct with
pretious (tones of great Value: and a
world of curious originals of the beft
painters hands :curious faddlcs,har--
neis, liveries of fhow embroidered'
with gold and (ilver, with many
other rich curiofities. The other*
pallaces in the Corfo are thefeythat.
of Frencipe Carboniano\ that of Car*
dinal franciotiis that of ZWyfc-i
gttjUr.o Chifj, that of Yrencepe Ln-*
divifw, that of the Duke Cattano-
There arcalfo in this iheet fome,
Churches
Mart*
in Via-
Lfsta,
Of Italt \yj
Churches worth taking notice oftas
that of S. Maria in Via Lata, which $a*t»
ftands near the Pallacc of the
Frince Pamfilio., Its an ancient
Church, and Cardinals title. Bj-
roniHs faith , that its built there £
where S. Paul lodged at his rirft
coming to Rome. Its faid alfo that
in the Oratory hereS. L*^ewrot§
the Ads of the Apoftles.
There is alfo in the Corfr the
Church of S. Marcello, a title of a f;^"
Cardinal. It was built in the place
where anciently flood the Temple
of the infamous Egyptian Goddef*
Jfu t which Tiberius himfelfcaufed
to be pulled down, the Idol thrown
into iyber, and all the Piieftsof it
to be crucifycd,for having favoured
a great crime comitted by a Roma*
Lady. Behind this Church ftandt
the Oratory of S. Marcello, called
the Oratory of the holy Crucifix,
where there is a famousC on fraternity
in which many noble m-nofRowi
are enrolled. Every Friday in Lent
there is excellent muiick. and one of
the beft preachers in Rome. From
I t hence
1^3 The Voyage
hence alfo in the Holy year, I faw
march a proceflion of 15000 men,
all in black buckram coats to the
heeks, with a white torch in their
hands 5 and they went from hence
on the night of Manday Thurfday
untoS. Peters Church.
Then the Church of £. Carlo in
% C 1 Corfo, wherelfaw the heart of S.
Charles Borromeo in a Chryftal cafe,
This Church belongs to the MiU-
nefu
Then the Church of S. Jacatrn clt
S T*como?F Incnfibiii, a neat round Church
it gV in- belonging to the Hofpiral here,
tuYubWi. where they that are afflicted with
incurable difcafes, are entertained
and well tended.
j7, e Cen- Laftly the Church of the penitent
ventoftht whores with their Convent i where
repented a lj t ] 1Q f c poor f oU | s t fa t re p ent
themfelves of their bad life , are
received , and kept all their life
time, at the coft-of this Convent.
And here I found a great difference
between thisConvent,and thehoufe
in AmjUrdam , where whores are
clapt up. For here thefe poor fouls
are
Of Italt jpp
are locked up with their own con-
fent and deiire ; there they^are lockt
up by force and violence. Here
the poor women do great ads of
auftcrityes and penance , as the
bloudy walls of their CeHes laid open
by a conflagration fhewed unto all
the City: there the young women
laugh, and are merry. Here no man j
is permitted to fpeak alone with *
them, except their Confeifo^ckphy-
ficianithere many men go to prattle
and pafs their time with thofe
wanton girles, at a feparation of
railes, Here a Vail hides the(e
poor womens faces : there I faw
divers with black patches on their
faces. Here all fignes of true re-
pentance are feen , there none.Here
the love of venue and penance locks
up thefe : there the Vice of Love
locks in thole, and not true repen-
tance. For really all the repentance
I faw there was, that it repented
me, that I had fuffered mine hoft
( who would needs (hew me all the
rarities of jimflsrdain ) to lead me
thither..
Li
QhjiUien
jrfwr.
300 The V ot age
O bnt,faid a Hollander tome,tht
Pope allowes whores in Komt.
To whom I anfwered : no mere
£ir,than your dates do drunkennefs,
which 15 a greater iin of the two,
becaufe it rides double, and car-
ryeth luxury behind it. Do not
drink wine in which is luxury.
Ephcf 5.
But faith an Engliin wiiterj am
fold, that the Pope both permits
them , and takes money of them
too tor thatpermiflioxi.
You have been told many other
falfc tales by thofewho think it law-
Xenton in full to tell untruths, fo they fpeak
- " trati fi |>ut againft the Pope ; in the mean
•f»f»rj/l. [im ^ j £ k at j lavc ^ cen g ve t j mcs m
&>me t can tell you the contrary,
if by permitting you mean allowing
end approving of them in that
couife. Thercs a great difference
between allowing, and permitting a
thing. Mofes allowed nor, feut yet
permitted the libel of divorce to the
Jews for the hardnete of their hearts.
£>o ufury is permitted,but not allow-
ed in divers countries , for trades
fake, But
4h[vi.
«./.£>.
Matth,
Of It alt act
But why takes he money of them?
This money is taken up by you
upon credit, not the Pope. For ^
the Pope is fo far from receiving ji n fv\
any money of thefe drabbs
that he goes to great coir, to hinder
their trading. No man perhaps
hath told you this, and therefore,
lie tell it you , know then
that the Pope to hinder all young
women from being naught, bath
founded Hofpitais for poor girles ,
where they are carefully brought up
till they become either marryred
wifes, or NunnS. Nay, he gives
them dowries alfo to execute this
tjieir choice , distributing yearly
tjponthe Feaftofour Ladyesday in
fyenr, in the Church of the Domi-
nicans fapra Minervam ^ a purfe of
money a piece, to three hundred
young maids who are prefented to
him by theoverfeers of the forefaid
Hofpitais. Nor is this all: for he
eaufeth yong girles of tender yeares,
to be taken from their poor fuf-
pedred mothers, left poverty, (jȣ
eogit ad mrpia , mould make them
iactifjcethofe"tei>dex.virgins to rich
I i 4 IBCQS
P etrut
a S.R.0
Trsajur.
2©2 The Voyage
mens lufts. In fine, he hath caufed a
Monaftery to be built in Rome to
receive thole poor unfortunate
women in, who would leave that
infamous courfe, if they had but
n.i'Min meanes to live on. Nay, he granteth
hhcro- Indulgences to any that will marry
- 1 ? !£ an y °* tno ^ e women 3 t0 f ree f hem
from that lewd courfe, and make
them mend. All this the Pope
doth , and much more i which
would be a defhoying, of his own
trade and gain , if it were true,
that he countenancethand alloweth
of whores for his gain. No miller
everdeturned the current of water
from his own mill. <
But why doth not the Pope dif-
fo.mtenance and punifh whores that
are known to be fuch ?
He doth Co. For is it not a dif-
countenaflcing of them, to forbid
them to come to publick meetings,
and afiemblies, where women of
honour meet ? as, at the Corfo, in
the evenings ■■> at publick manages*
at their fung opras ••> and the like ?
Is it not a difcountenancing of
them
O * Italy 203
them to forbid them to go incoaches
in the day timej or to iiir out of
doors in the night ? Is it not a
punishment to them,to forbid them
to live together, where they might
encourage one another , and pals
their time more cheerfully ? But
for the molt part they livcalone ,
condemned to the melancholy
horror of their crimes, and the fo»
litude of feven whole weeks in
Lent, when upon pain of rigorous .
punithments and imprifonment. ,
they. dare not admit of anycuftor
mers. The like rigour is.ufed;
againftthem alfo in Advent, that
during the fpace of thole holy times, ,
thefe unholy women may have time
to think of themfelvcs, and admit;
oi Gods holy inspirations tor ilicir
amendment. Is it not a puniuSment .
to them to becbliged to enter their
names publickiy in the hit of
whores? For if 'Tacitus obtefves f*
1 I 1 J r. / • (tHttM.5
that the old Romans, j.itu p&njmm
adverjUm impudicAf in ipfj profrffio-
fie fl^aitti apud JEdiles crerhb*nt ,
thought it fmijhment enough againjki
I.j 5 Hjicb'ajfci
204 The Voyage
Hncbaft Wdmetf i in their very profef-
ft?^ tbemj'elves to be fucb before tbe
JEAiU* I cannot but think it a &reat
punishment to Chriftian whores
("who areatleaftas feufible as the
fceathens , of the horrible difgrace
cf having their name Jilted ) to be
thus defamed for ever, by remaining
whores upon Record. Is it not
ft punifhing of them, to deprive
them all their life time (as leng as
they live whores) of the holy Sacra-
ments sand after their death, of
Chriftian Burial Ms it not a pu-
ttiinmenr, and a deterring of them
from vice, to throw their bodies
when they dye, into an obfeure
place out of the walls of the town,
as if they defer ved no other Burial
place than that of Affes ? Is it not,.
in fine, a punilhment to them, not
to be allowed ro make any Will, or
Tcftamcnt, but to -leave all their.
goods confifcated either to fhfi
Hofpitalsof poor honelt girles 3 or
to the maintaining of thofe guards,
that are to watch over their de-
portments }■]£ thefe. punimments
both.
bothofbody,foul, andhonour,bc in-
flicted upon whores in Rime, as
they are, do not urge any more,
that whores are not punched in
Rome, nor discountenanced. ,. „
But why doth not the Pope punifh ^
them home,and root them quite out
by banifhment >
This hath been attempted by An ^'
divers Popes, and namely by Pius
Ghtintw of happy memory (as tbua-
??us in hishiltory writes j but feeing
greater inconveniences, and greater
linsarofe upon it, prudence, which is
the fait that mutt feafon all moral a-
dions, thought it not rit to carry on !
that rigour i nor yet allow of forni-
cation neither. So that all theper-
mifilon of whores in Rome that can
colourably be imagined is onclya
not puuifhing of them in all rigour i
and even that too, for a good end j
and to hinder greater evils.
Bat the Pope taing both a Tempo • c^eS*
ral, and an Ecclefijfiicai Superiour,
is bound, in my mind , to break
through all refpedb, and fettle in^
nocency in the world.
Its
'Mitfiv.
Staesg,
306 The Voyage
Its zealouily fpbken i and I wifli
he could do it : but d'iff.eilem rem
optas, generis bumzni innocentistn '.
hemfhetb a hard thing rcbo tvijbetb
for ibe inncczncy <f mankind , faith
a wifeman.And if Princes fometimes
do not puntfn factious fubje£rs ,
when they fee, thac the punith^ng
©f them would pull the whold State
in pieces over their heads, and put
the whole kingdomein danger, as
it did mtiwy the Third's time in
Trance upon his canfing of the
Duke of Gnife robe killed in Blois.:
If Generals ofarmiestakc no notice
of feme treacherous commander,
who is univcifally beloved by the
foldkrs •,, ltd the punifhing of one
man, loofe them the affection of
the whole army., as we fawlafely
in the cafe or LuUmirs\y ( how
truly guilty I know not) and forae
yeares agol rtmtmber in the cafe
oiWidlfain, whole puniihmeut had
almoii undone the Emptj or : why.
may not the Pope without ap-
proving the tin of whores pru-
dently wave the puniflung of it with
all
Of Italy 207
aJl rigour, when he fees that fuch
rigour would caufe greater difor-
dersinthathot nation, and in that
City where all nations feem to club
vjccs, as well as vertues ? Hence
learned Abitknfis a great Divine
faith i Licet leges human* aliqua ma-
la ptrmittant non funundo^ nullum tat- tn e.iJ a
men malum permit :tmt jtatuendj, x &'&»
But the Pope mould not govern
according either to humane policy ,
or,hmrune Laws and Examples. .
You pretend zeal, but.you would
do well to take her filter prudence
with her, as our Sav-iour did, who
when he heard his difciplesdefiring
him to let thenical] down iire from
heaven upon the criminal Sama-
ritans, anfwered them calmly, you
know not f tphat jpirityou are. Nay
doth not God himfelf, who being
able to puniih all criminal perfons,
aud root tlkin quite out o£ the
world, Curler* both his Sun to rife
and (hine upon iinners, and iinners
to offend in this Sunmine, and
often by k? Hence S. Thorns -faith
much
O&jtQa
Anftv.
Lnkf 5>,
S.ttes
208 The Voyage
a.t.f .10. mac ^ t0 m Y P^ r porc: Humanttm
irMi.it regimen derivatur a divino rcgimine y
mpore. & jpfum debet imitari. Deus autetn
qttamvis fit omnipotent , ac fnmmt
bonus, fcrmittit tamen aliqua mala
fieri in univerfo, qu<t prohibere p'Jfcth
nt lis fublatis, majora bona tolle-
rentur , vel majora mala fajW-
rentur. Humane government is derived
from Divine Government 3 and ought to
imitate it. Now God, although he
be Almighty, and Highly good, yet he
permits evils to be done in the wor d,
which he could hinder, left by taking
away them, greater goods fhould be
taken arcay, or greater evils fhould
fi'hrv. But I wade too far into this
puddle : yet remember who thruft
me into it, and you'll pardon me.
Behind the Church and Convent
S.Srihtf-of the forefaid Penitents,ftands the
I,"'* 471 " Church of San SUvtftrd in caftte,
fo calkd: from the picture of our
Saviours head and face, which our
Saviour bimfelf made by miracle,
and Cent to Abjgarus King of
Edtffa j as you may read at length
in
pit
Of Italy. 20 ^
in Baronw, and in B$us in his rare
book called Roma Soterranea. Now
this pi&ure is kept here in this rao>
nailery* and with great probability,
feeing it was here that divers Greek
Monks driven out of their country
by Conftantin Copr animus for the de-
fence of facred images, were enter-
tained by the Pope Faul the tiriU
and its very likely that thefegood
men brought with them this famous
piclure of our Saviour to fave it
from the fury of the Iconodajh*
Returning from hence into the
Gorfo again I went to fee there the
Colonna d' Antonino,the great pillar Colonn*
of Ant-minus the Emperor. Its AntotyA <
built jult like that of Irapn de-
fcribed above. It was built by Mar-
cus Aurelius Antoninus the Emperor
in honour of his father An'oninus
Tius. Its all of white marble en-
graven without with a bajforilieu.i
from top to bottom, containing the
memorable afrions of Msrau Au-
relius. Its 175 foot high, & hath in it
%o6 flairs which lead up to the top
Of
A-
2K> The Voyaoi
of it, and 56 little windows giving
light to thole flairs : and yet this
high pillar was made of 28 (tones
of marble. The carving that is upon
it , contains the brave anions of
Marcus Aurdius over the Arms-
mans, Varih'uni) Germans, Wandals,
and Sarmats or Polon'uns '. but age
hath fo dcficed thtfe bajji rilimi
that us hard to decipher them. He
thats curious to know them, may
buy them in the printed cuts fold
in Rome* Upon the top of this pillar
(fends mounted the itatue in brals
guilt of S- Paul fet up here by S'txiMt
§{uimus. From the top of this pillar
I had a perfect view oi Rome, and of
rfc ffvtn almoit all the feven hills upon which
it is, built and are within the walls:
which are thefe:
1. The Capitclin, hill where now
Aa Coeli Hands and the Cor/fervjte-
torio.
2. The Palat'm hill I could not
fee becaufe it ftands behind the for-
mer. It was i'o called from the
Emperors pallace that itood upon
it,
3. The
bills of
jlome.
Aims
Capiioll
tuts.
tilts
Of]taly 211
f 5. The Avtniin hill Co ca]lecU»««i-
from Aventinus King of ^/i»,* bu-*"^-
ried here where now S. Salinas is.
4. The Cxltan hill beginning a t Ca ,j iffSa
S. Gregories and running to £. jM?w
5. The Efquil'm hill, txquilinus Efquili-
(jitjfi excubinur ., becaufe of the**"'*
nightly Watch and guard upon it.
Here/tends S- Mary Majors.
6- The V'tminal hill, fo called vimaalit
from Vimina, that is, 0jjerj,where-
with it was anciently covered. Hae
(land the 1kerm& Diocletian* and
the Villa of Montalto.
7. The Qmrinal hill fo /called Vtt - iriua „
from the temple of guirimts^ or/^
Romulus which flood upon it. Here
now ftands MonteeavaL'o. Thefe
were the feven ancient hills of
Rome, to which were added three
more, to wit j the Jamcule hill, fo
called, from J d »«/ buried here. u » is * lm
Here ftands «§• P/V/w Montorio.
The Vatican hill, io called from .
the Vaticinations and foothfayings
made here. £. Fears Church ftands
now upon it.
The
I
WreRa.
212 The $J ota gi
»;„,;,„ The Tincim hill, now called
r ) tit '■tie '
er Koj/m- w\o7itrinita> Descending from hence
•»•«»» I went ro the Pazzorclla , where
2& P«*- they keep madmen and fools v and
faw there ttrange variety of hu-
mours in folly : yet I was-pleafed to
fee with what charity and care thofe
poor men were tended there.
From hence T ftept to confidcr, in
the Piazza di Tiara , the row of
curious pillars which adorned the
JBafilica of the Emperor Antomnns
who had his pallace heie, -and his
forum*
Then turning by little unfrequent-
?£•.££ ■ ed ftreets, I came to the Roman
Colledge belonging to the Jefuits.
Its a fair building, and ftands
conveniently forconcourfe of fchol-
lars from all parts. Here I faw the
f^ffchool s,and gallery of famous Atba-
nafius Kerk$rins , full of pretty cu-
xiofiiies and experiences both
mechanical^ mathematical, and by-
draulical : yet in my opinion , ifa
far fhort of Cmomco Sett 4m gal-
lery in Milan-, or Monfteur Scrticrt
in Lyons* Hcres alfoa fair Library
having
mnnt'ol
Uigt,
O f It alt 213
having no fault in it bin the common
fault of moft Libraries, to wit,
Locks and Keys to it. Good books
fhould be as common as the Sun ,
feeing they are rhe lights of our
minds and made publick by the
prefs ; and I cannot but pity a
book thats imprifoned and locked
up in a Library, by faying unto it :
Odifti claves & grata JigiVa fudic* ,
Vatieis ojiendi gemis, & cormnunla
laitdMAn rine, I favv here the Apo-
thecaries (hop where a Lay brother
makes excellent Roman Treacle,
«nd other odoriferous diftillations
of Soveraign Vertue. The Church
belonging to this Colledge is de-
signed to be a noble thing, but its
but half built for want of a whole
founder.
From hence I went to the Domi-
nicans Convent, called U Minerva,
becaufe its built upon the place,
where anciently frood the temple of
Minervam. Hence alfo the Church
is called Santa Maria fupra Mi-
nervam, In this Church I faw many
neat tombs, as thofe of Lta the X,
and
La Mi-
Ktrva.
214 The Voyage
and Clement the VII, both Popes
of the houfeof Medicss : they Hand
in the J^«/re,and are neatly wrought
by that great artilt Baccio Bmdine.1-
\i. Then the Tomb of Cardinal
Titneniclli a modern Cardinal. The
tomb of great Cardinal Morone, Le-
gate for the Pope in the Council of
"Trent , and a man who had been
thirteen times Legatus a Lxttre.
Here alfo lye buried the afhes of
Egidio Fofcarari Bithop of Modem*
called in the council of 'Trent^Lumi-
nan Ma'jHs. The Tomb of a Lady
of the family of the Raggi, is very
neat for the new manner of fpread-
ing ( as I may fay , and as you
would think ) of black marble upon
an other coloured marble ■> and both
of them upon a round pillar. Here on
the gofpel fide of the high Altar
ftandeth a ftatue of our Saviour
made by Michel Angd)^. of white
marble, a rare piece. At the en-
trance of the great door of this
Church, lies buried under a plain
flat ftone, TbomM a Via Cactanur
S. Ikomas ©f Ajmns, Second, his
brother
Of Italy 215
brother in religion, his name fake,
his learned commentator, and only
not he. Out of humility he would
not be buried within the Church,but
out of it. In the Sacrifiy of this
Church, I fawthe Chappel of Ka-
thetine of Siena^Sc this Chappel was
once her very chamber in SienaiCzf-
dinal Antonio Barberino Protector of
this order, cauled it to be transfer-
red hither from Siena- Her body
lyeth under the altar of the Rofary
in this Church.
From the Minerva I went to Saint Sunt An-
Andrea dclla Valid, a tine Church ^^
belonging to the Iheatins. Its built
upon the place where the Theater of
Vomfcy flood anciently \ and where
in latter times flood the pallace oi
the family of the Ficolomixis and
perchance this was the reafon why
two Popes of that family, to wit,
Tins Secmdus, and Pius Ic-nius are
bow buried in this Church. The
Cupola was painted by Cavalier
Linfranco; the three corners under
the Ciiftla ?nd the tribune are of
the hand of Vemenichini. The neat
Chappel
I
Pktro
Ma Val
it.
I
216 TheVoyagi
Chappel of the Barber ini made by
Pope Vrban the VIII while he was
but yet Cardinal, is built upon the
very place where S. Sebajiian was
beaten and . thrown into a Sink
after he had been (hot. There had
been formerly a little Church built
upon this place, and over this fink,
but Sixiur ghtintus gave leave it
(hould be pulled down, upon con-
dition a Chappel of the new defign-
ed Church fhould be built in place
of it.In rlne, take all this Church to-
gether, and it is one of the neateft
Churches ( except the Bafilic* )
that are in K<w*e, being of the Ar-
chitecture of Maderna^
In the Fiazza, or rather, the ftrf et
which goes before this Church, lived
not long ago , Tietro della Vallt
that ingenious Roman gentleman,
who haviog fpent great means in
travelling, hath left us three volumes
in Quarig of his curious relations of
Veyages. In his houfe here he had
three whole Mummies with their
coffins or cafes painted anciently,
and adorned with divers kierogbybf.
He
Of It alt 217
He fpent much money in buying
many other rarities, which he kept
atfb here.
Behind this Church livcd,when I
firft was acquainted with Rome^ an
®ther great Virtusfo and gentleman
of Komt, I mean the ingenious Co.- Cjtva \ m
valkr Pozzo with whom I wasp ^#
brought acquainted and faw all his
rarities, his curious pictures, medals,
bafli rl/fflVf] his excellent books of
the rareii things in the world,
which he caufed to be painted, co-
pied, and designed out with great
coft.
From hence I went to the pallaoe ii» fd-
of the Duke Mattbei, where Ifaw /rf " /
many good pictures and ftatues ,
especially that long picture repre-
senting fully the manner of Clement
the' VIII his going from Rome to
take pofTeifion of Ferrara*
Thence falling in at S, Carlo in
Catmari, a neat round Church, I
went to the CameVaria, This pal- t& en-
lace was built of the itones of the ^ AXt *-
Cnlifea by Cardinal JHwii. The
chic! thing I law in it was the gal-
lery
218 The Voyage
lery of pi&ures of Cardinal Barbe-
rin, who being Vicechancelour-^wtth
alwayesin this pall ace to exercife
SanLo- his charge the better.
nnzo in This pallace looks into the church
Damaji of San Lorenzc in Damjo-, a Col-
legiate Church. Under ri>e foigfa al-
tar repofeth the body of S. D t imafus
Pope. The walls of the body, or the
Church are rarely painted with the
hiftory of S. Laurence.
Not far from hence ftands the
the t? U ^ a ^ ace °^ Farnefi belonging to the
lace of Duke of Parma- Before it itands a
Torneji. noble Piazza with two rare foun-
tains in it. The pallace it felf is one
of the belt in Rome, or elfe where, It
makes anlfle, that is, it hath no
houfes joining to it. The form of
itisfquare, and it hath in themidft
of every fquare, a great door letting
you into the Court. This Court is
built upon pillars and arches, with
a fair open gallery above letting
you into feveral appartiments. In
this Court I faw the famous ftatue
of Hercules leaning upon his club,
which was found in the Iberm* of
Antoninus
O r Italt
219
AntoniHs Caracalla : one of the legs
is modern, the reft old and made
by Glyco an Athenian, as the Greek
words upon it told me. There is an
other ftatue oiHercuks oppoiite to
it, and juit like it but not Co good,
being but a copy of the former. The
other ftatues here of the two Floras,
the two Gladiators, and others, arc
excellent pieces. Mounting up the
great ftairs to go into the chambers
and open gallery, I faw the curious
ftatue of the Boy andthe Dolphin :
and at the door of the great hall, the
ftatues of two Parthian captive
Kings. Entring into that hall I met
presently with the rare ftatue of A- tf,e/atu*
Uxandtr Farneft-> T>uke of Varma of Mex-
trampling up5 2 proftrate ftatues re- ™der
prefenting bo efj and rebellion \ while * Arnt r*
fame crowns him. All thefe 4fcveral
perions are of white marble, and of
one entire ftone.Its pity that fueh a
ftatue ftands not in feme more pub-
lick place, to teach men to beware
of the mother and the daughter,*-Ie-
refy and rebellion 5 and Ihew them,
what long hands Kings have. In the
lame hall I faw the two excellent
K k ftatues
I
$20 T HE V ©YAGE
ftatues of charity, and plenty, in
cumbent poflures => and they are the
fellows tothofe two itatuts which
adorn the Tomb of Faulus Ttr-
tiuf , the raiferof this family, in
S Feterf Church. Round about this
room aifoftand a world of ftatuesof
gladiators, ihnding wirh their
iwords in their hands, & in fcvcral j
pofiures, upon their gard.In the next ■
chamber I law rare pictures contain-* |
ing fomc actions of Fauhis Wkkjusy
and they are of the hand of S ahj.it i
and Federico Zuccar'u There is alfo
the picture of Luther difputing
with Cam an : and a picture of.tjie
four Latin Doctors of the Church,S.-
■ilffierwn'a, S. AmbroJ'e , S. Augtift'm ,1
&S. Gregory, o$ the hand of Firdon'in'u
In an other chamber, a world of
ancient llatues of Philofophcrs and
Poets : as Eur if lies, Pino, Foflido-
riins, Zen::-, Seneca.Ui'genes^Bucchuf J
Meleagcr , aftid others, Another
room full of pictures of -choice
hands, and a curious table oi pietre
■iov.-mrjfe about twelve foot long & y j
wide. Then the rare Gallery offta-
tuts, with the roof of it painted moft|
admirably.
Of Italy 221
admirably by the raviflnng hand of
great Ham'ihd Caraccio, and con-
taining the reprefentation of the
loves of the heathen Gods and God-
deflfes. This painting may be com-
pared, if not preferred, before all
the galleries of Rome, or Europe, and
the very cuts of it in paper pictures,
fold at the Stationers (hops, are moft
admirable, and worth buying. In
the fame gallery alio ftands the in-
comparableftatueof Apollo in a flint
itone. Hereisalfo a curious Library
in which belides the curious books ,
are many rare pieces of miniature,
and rare pictures; of Raphael & 7i-
tian , and divers excellent defign*
of the fame Raphaels and or' Mlebd
Angelp ■■> that efp^ci ally of his Judg-
ment. Returning again through
the fame rooms, I could not but
gaze again at the itatlie of my fa-
vorite He ros* Alexander Fannfi, and
began at lait to think that I was
mifhken even now' when I {'aid ,
that Jrltrcttfes his itatue (tood in tha-
Court below, for upon better reflec-
tion, I Hud no ftatuejri the pallacc
to refemble Hercules Co much, as this •
K' k 2 of
222 The Voyage
of Alexander ofPartria » of whom I
may fay, as Sulla fa id of O/ir, In
uno Cdfare, multifum Marti : in one
Alexander of Varma^ there are many
Hsrculefes.
Then mounting up into an appar-
timent over the former, I faw divers
chambers exquifitly furnHbed with
pi&ures, and ldTcr ftatues. In the
long gallery there are divers rare
pieces of the hand of Car actio. In
theothcr rooms many ancient cu-
rious things, as an ancient piece of
painting found in Adrians Villa and
made fifteen hundred years ago-, an
other ancient pidrure of Eu^enius tht
jr"ftudying,and S- Bernard Handing
by him. A rare defign of Vajfari
reprefenting a town in F lander t-
taken by Alexander Farneft. Mi-
chel Angelos true pidture. TheFc*
'»«/ rf Michel Anielo. The lirtlfl
old pidure of our Lady, and S> J'hri
Baptism afmall mofaick work, M
Crucifix in Ivory of Michel Angela^
making. The delign, or rather th<j
pjrfcdt model of the bridge throwij
over the Sceld^ by which Akx*nde%
Farnefi cook Attttveifc A greaj
c a bine]
Bull.
Of Italy 223
cabinet of Medalls* with a world ok'
other rarites too long to be related,
but never enough to be feen.
Then defcending into a little back if*
court, I faw thsre the famous Toro.f'™ ™
It is a ftatue of a great bull, to whofe
horns a rope being tyed at one end
and at the other end of it a womans
hair, two lufty fellows are ftrivitig
to pufli this bull from a promon-
tory into the Sea below, and the
woman together with him, to make
her away. The ftory is known, and
it is of Ampbion and Zetus, who to
revenge their mother Antiope Jor the
wrong done her by £«•<*, (who had
got Lieut King of Thebes to repu-
diate Antiop for to marry her )
took this Viree y and tyeing her to
a bulls horns threwthem both, the
bull and the woman into the Sea*
The bull , the two brothers, thr
woman, a little boy, andadog,are
all cut oat of one marble ftone. The
fnaSHing fellow that keeps this bull,
or rather, whom this bull keeps,
will tell you another ftory of this
ftatue through thenofe : but feeeing
he fells his liory, as well as tells it,
K k 3 you
I
I
P«nti
Sifto.
the Hof-
fital of
the holy
Trinity.
%
224. The Voyage
you had better give him a Julio be-
times to be rid of him, than hear a-
Kother long and new fable.
Going from hence into the great
fiazza again, I itept into the houfe
of the SigxoriFighini , which ftands
cveragainft the p allace of Famefijo
fee two flatties, the one of Vwus, the
other of Adonis, both ancient ones,
and fo rarely made, that the Earl of
Arondil) late Lord Marflial of En-
gland, offered twelve thoufand
crowns for them , but was refufed.
Pafling from hence towards the
pa) lace of Cardinal Sfada, I entered
into it, and there faw many exquifit
pictures.
Thence I went to fonte Sifto, and
from thence to the Hofpital of the
Trinity, which receives all Pilgrims
coming to Rome, forthrte dayts ,
and treateth then plentifully, Icon'
fefp , I went often hither, and as
o ten admired the wonderful cha-
rity which is done here daylyi but
eipeciaily in the holy week in lent,by
the Confraternity of this HoJ 'pit al, of
ivhich^moft are gentlemen.Here no*
bleme-*
Of Italy 22$
blemcn, Bifhops, and Cardinals wafh
the Pilgrims feet, and then fcrve
them at fupper in the long refectory,
where there are frequen ly in the
holy week, four hundred pilgrims
at once at table
Returning from thence I went to s .Gml*-
S. Girolam-3 della Charita, a Church modeUn
and houfeof good Pridts, and molt Cb'arita,
of them Gentlemen, living or" thcis
own expences, yet all in community.
S. fblllip Neri inftitutcd them, and
lived among them thirty years. In
the Church I Taw upon the high al-
tar, an excellent pidure of S,Hie-
rome.
Hard by ftands the Englifh Col-
ledge, ©nee an hofpital for the En- '„ ^
glim , and built by the Englifh j^,.
merchants in Rdme, to receive En-
g 1 1 til pilgrims in> becaufe a poor
Englilh woman had b_ 3 en found
worryed by dogs in the night, for
want of a lodging. In the Church
of this Colledge, lies buried Car*
dinal Alan, the laft Englifh Cardi-
nalof our nation.
From hence I went to the Cbiefa fht Chit*
Nueva belonging to the good/*^**
Kk ^ priefts
116
The Voyage
Priefts of the Oratory. This is one
of the neater! Churches in 'Rome and
the belt ferved. Its all painted in
the roof by the rare hand of Pietro
SCartoTia, and richly guilt. Here
I faw the neat Chappel of S. Philip
Neri a primitive Saint in all things
but time. He was the inffttutor of
this holy company of Priells, who
are religious men in allthings but
in vows, and name. The Chappel
and altar of this great Saint is on
the Gofpel iide of the high altar,
his true picture there, was made by
Guido Kknl Under this altar,
in a lower Chappel or Vault, lyeth
the body of this Saint in an iron
cheft : if yon defire to know his
merits and life, ask all Reme
which lately faw them, and dayly
feels them. On the other fide of the
High Altar within the rails, lies -
buried Cefar Baromus? once a
Prieft of this houfe, and forced ,
after much reluc1:ancy, to be made
curlual Cardinal by Clement the VIII. He
c*J*r deferved this honour in the opi-
&*ranius. n - l(mQ f z \\ men> f or having written
His incomparable Ecclefiaftical bifio-
v~
O * Italy 227
r/j and {{Hercules^ for helping Atlas
to bear up heaven one day only,
was feigned by Poets to have defer-
ved to be taken up to heaven d may-
jufrly (ay, that Bar mitts deferved
Well the purple of the Church, for
having alone born up the caufe of
the Church of God, againfta whole
troop of Genturiators. For- my part,
I reckon it among my felicities, to
have lived after Baronius^ and to
have fpent a good part of three
years itudy, in reading his facred
Annals, which colt him ten times
three years Itudy in writing. And
here I could enter into a fair field of
his praifes^ and like the Eagle in
the (lory, having nothing elfe to
give him, give him a feather, that is
one caft of my pen \ but that I wrife
of countryesnow, and not of men »
and that his full praifes may be in-
cluded in thofe three ihort enco-
miums > Ecclefi* Codes '■> C<efar
CbrijiUnus j Orbit L-ecup'etjtor.
The houfe of thefe good Priefts
deferves alfo to be fcen tor the Li-
braries fake, which is one of thebeft-r/,,.^^
r. Rom?: and for the great Oratories tory,
Kk 5, fike.v
2~2o* The Voyage
fake, where there is every Sunday
and holiday in winter at night, the
bcft mufick in the world.
!&***«.. f rom hence I went to the Church
de la Pact , a neat Church and
adorned with excellent painting &
fhtues. Here many famous painters
have fignalifed their memories, as
Feruzzi of Siena , Vafan , Lavinia
a Lady of Bolognh^ Fon:ana-> Gen-
iikjchi , Cavalier Giojeppe , Rpfji ,
and Raphael Vrb'm himfelf, . who
puintt d the Prophets and Sybils in
the Chsppel of Axguftiw Cbigi : and
iome think that he made the little
hoyes that are fo well done. The
ftatucs of S. Pater and S. Fjj,/, are of
the hand of Michel Anjtl >,
' Going from hence through the
ftreet of the Statimsw , I came to
the FLzZza riPafqmna, which is
thought to be the very center of
ll-me. And litre I cannot ferret
t>fpt:n Pafqpi'.f? himfelf ,, who forgets no
man. This Pjffjt/m -is an old broken
•itatue, fomc thing like that of H.r~
inks in the B>&>&kre defcrihed
above, and of lome rare hand. And
becaufe it Hands near three, or four
tftccEs
Of Italt 229'
ftreets , whereby to efcape when-
they have fixed their Libells, jeering
wits (et up here, and father upon
poore MeJJer Papjuino , their Sity
rical jealis, called from him , Paf-
qmnadesh which Morforius , another
ftatue near the Capitol , ufcth
to anfwere.
From hence palling on to the
Church of S . Pantalcon belonging S ' Pa **'
to the Fathers of the ScboU PU,
Iwas willing toentef into it .and .
fee it, becaufe four hundred years -
ago, it was a Collegiate Chinch ,
and pofTefled by Englifli Pridis, as
may appear by the inscription upon
a bell which was call then.
From he nee I ftept into Piazza Piazza)
Navona , called lb by corruption Navontuy
from Piazzi d
Afrona, becaufe this
Piazza was anciently a Circus for
fports , and it was called Circus
Agmalis. In the midft of it anciently
ftoodagreat Egyptian pillar with
hieroglyphs upon it \ and now of
late it hath gotten another fuch,
pillar Ccz up here by Pope Innocent
the X , with a rare fountain ifluing-,
forth at the foot of it, and adorned'
with,
the
Church
0|© The Voyage
with four great ftatues of white
marble reprefentingthe four parts
of the world. In this place alfo
, (tends the new Church of S. Agnes
'/ built upon the place where me was
condemned to the news. This
Church is built at the coft of Prencipe
Fampbilio, whofe pallace joins up-
on it. This Pallace overlooking
the Piazza Navona^ defcrv.es not onr
ly a glance of an eye, but a!fo an
hours infpedtion within. The chain-
bers are many and fair,and the great
Hall a molt lovely room, if paintings
and variety of pi-dtures in frames
can make a houfe handforae
In this Piazza alfo I law the pal-
lace of the Duke of Bracciano , of
the houfe of Orfvii: and that ot the
family of Torres.
The Spanim Church here called
$• Jacnmoj, is not to be forgot r en :
Here lies buried in it Ciacomus a
learned Critick for a Spaniard.Thc
pidture here in oyl of San Diegoh of
Annibal Caraccio*
Over againft the bnck door of this
the S^i- Church ftands the Saphnz*-, a fair
'***' GjUedge-y where the publick Letftrres
are.
Vmmfbi
He.
O f Italy 251
are read.ThisColIedge was begurrby
Eugenw the IV, but much beau-
tifyed of late withhandfomefchools
and a neat Church, by Vrban the
VIII. and a publick Library by
Alexander the VII. We have had,
in my time, two Englishmen that
were Readers here? Doctor Hart-,
and Dodor Clbbs a Noble Cefa-
reanLtureatFoet, and the Horace of
this age.
From hence paffing through the
Tiazzi Madama , and before the
palace of the Grand Duca, I went
to 5. Levous his Church belonging
to the French Nation. 'Its a hand-^ #Irw ^
fom Church, and well (erved with
French Prietts. Theres alfoan Ho£
pttal belonging tc that Church and
Nation. In the Church I found
upon a pillar on the left hand,
the picture of great Cardinal
Dojfata French man, whom I may
}.ultly call Great, becaufe he was
both a great Statefman,& yet a very
good man 1 , that is, he was a great,
fervant to his King \ and yet a great
fervant of Cod. His rare Letters
(hew the one j and his life written
by,
iht Pal
face of
lufitniani
"232 The Voyage
by Vu Verdier, (hews the other.
Here lies aifo buryed in the middle
almoitof this Church, an Englifh
Prielt of great vertue , by name,
More, of the family of great Sir
IkomM More , and heir of that
family, if I miftake not His younger
brother and he ftriving whether
of them fliould be Prieft, it was his
prerogative of age, which making.
him to be four and twenty before
his brother, made him enter into
Orders before him and become
Prieft, leaving the Etfate to his
brother. It was he , that fet us
out the life of Sir "tbomxs Mm iii
Englifli: at laft, retiring to Rome to
be agent for his brethrenthe Clergy,
having ended his butinefs there
happily ( which was the procuring
of a Catholick Bifliopjhe ended his
life fo too, and was buryed here by
his own choice.
From hence I went to the Pallace
•of Juiiiniani, which is hard by.
Herelfaw foTnany ftatues of the
old Heathen Gods,and fuch roomes
full of old marble feet of them, that,
you would almoit fvvear the Hea-
then,
O p Italy.
23:
then Gods,whenthey werebanifhed
out of the Pantheon, had been com-
mitted hither as to a prifon :or that
fome of the anceftours of this houfe,
had been fhoemakers to the old
Gods j and therefore was obliged to
have their lafts and meafures. For
they had Gods of all fizes, feeingCas
Varro faith ) they had 300C0 Gods,
a world of theft ftatues are yet ieen
in the Gallery above, and in every
room in the houfe , which they
clog rather than adorn. And yet
fcarce one of them, but is a. Palla-
dium to this Family v and would
portend its fudden ruin if alienated,
For, as I remember, the old Prince
Jujilniani dying without heirs male,
left this man his heir, with this
provijoy that he fhould not fo much
as alienate one ftatuc upon pain
of forfeiting the whole houfe a d
goods- Judge then , whether he
had net need to ke. p thefe uatues
chained up, as the Tyruiu did their
Gods in a Siege : or whether the
throwing of one of ttu fc itatues out
of the 'Window, would not be pro-
perly a throwing the houfe out of
the
7.
234 The Voyage
the windowes. Upon which occa-
(ion, I cannot omit to tell you how
the ancient ftatues of Rome were
€*JJioi. . g rown at i a (t t b e f many in num-
ber^ hat (as Cafliodore faith wittily
of them) poihritas pempanm popu-
lumttrbidedit, quamnatura procrez-
vit, posterity had made almoit as
many men by art in the City , as
were made by nature. And thefe
ftatues grew to that exceffetoo, that
marble ones were thought too
Vulgar, and gold and filver ones
were erected by riotous men, who
fcorned to be like others in any
thing but in being mortal. But to
return aga : n to this houfe, I can*
not leave it without minding you of
fome rare pictures, of 7m.mand o-
ther prime mafters,which are mown
Infhe Gallery above s efpecially the
rare picture otSJohn the Evangeltft
of the hand of B.apbael Vrbin '■> and
that of our Lady and S. Jofeph in an
o her room, which is a rare copy of
that famous pi&ure in the cloifter of
the Annttnciata in Florence, ©f Ah-
dtt* delSarto.
from hence I went to the Church
of
. Of Italy 235
of S. Eulacbio, having feen in the S.EuJfa-
way, the goodly xamcsohheThenn£ c *'°*
of Alexander Severus. In the Porch
of this Church I faw an Infcrip-
tion in a (tone , which told me
that Alexander of Farma was
Chriftened here with his brother,
being twinns. This Church ftands
in the place where S. Ettjtachw
with his wife Tbeopijia , and his
Conns Agapitus and 'Ibeopiftur, were
put into a brazen bull and martyred
by the brazen heart . of "trajan ,
whom Euftachius had ferved twice
as General of his Armies, and gain-
ed him as many Victories.
From hence I went to the Rotonda
otherwife called anciently, the Pan- ™ •*••"
tbeon, becaufc it was dedicated to jjjfojf
all the Gods.This is a bolder piece of
Architecture than men think. For ^
whereas other Vaults are ftreng- 7**
thened and made good by being
(hutupclofeat the top, and in the
center of the Vault, which hinders
the Vault from fhrinkingi here this
great maflive vault is left wide open
at the top, with a hole above three
yards wide in diameter. Indeed
Sebaftianus
236 The Voyage
SebaftianUs Serliut , an experienced
man in Frabriks, thinks this Church
to be the unick example of perfect
Architecture i and PUny in his time,
placed it among the rareft works
that were then extant. It hath no
window in it, nor any other light,
but what comes in at the wide hole
mentioned above. Anciently it was
covered with bnzen tiles, and thole
guilt too, as L'ffms thinks j but
how its covered with great rtatt
Hones. Itsa'hundred and forty foot
high, and as many broad : and yet
it hath no pillars to bear up that.
great roof. Indeed it hath thruft
all the pillars out of doors, and
makes them wait in the Porch >
where there are thirteen great pil-
lars all of one piece, each one 53
foot high, and fix in diameter, all
of a granite, or fpeckled marble.
The CapiteUi of thefe Pillars are the
belt in Rome of Corinthian order,
fctereis the Tomb of the incompa-
rable Painter KafbaelVrHn.
Il'e hie efi Raphael , timuii qm
ffpite Vinci
Jk^mm magna parens, & ntorhnU
mor'u la
O f Italy 2 §7
In this temple flood anciently the
famous Minerva made by Phidias
of which htftories ring. Here alfo
was placed the liatue of Venus ^ in
whofeear that incomparable pearl
of Cleopatra hung, which upon a
ryotous wager with Af. Antony
(whether of them thould make the
moll coftly (upper) (he was going to
throw into a glafs ot vinegar to ma*
cerate it(as (he had done another be-
fore) and drink it up: But M- Antony
flopping her hand, and confeffing
himfelf overcome, the Pearl, faith
Pliny, was put in the ear of Venus
in the Pantheon. In the rptfttd holes
over the altars , were fct thofe
heads of the Gods of the heathens,
which are now feen in the Brfveden
of the Mifcbere. This Temple
and its Porch were [q lined an-
ciently with brafs, that there was
enough of it to make divers great
Canons, by Pope Vrbans command ,
and the great Canopy with the four
pillars which adorn S. Peters High
Altar. And though the people and
Pafquin, two equally fcnfelefs things
murmured nauch at the taking away
©f
2%3 The Voyage
of this brafs, yet feeing the Pantheon
received no damage thereby, and
feeing it was improved to that
height, that it became Eccleft£ Orns-
minium & VAn Munimtntnn, the
vvifer fort of men thought it well
employed, and let the people and
malice talk. I had almoft forgot to
tell you that this Temple was made
by A7ri/>^j,whohad bsen thrice Con*
ful, as the words in the Architrave
of the Porch yet (hew.
From hence I went through the
Campo Marzo, unto the Church of
S.Lorttt- &' Lorenzo in Luc ina^f \\ich. is {erved
- »/'»Xtf»by Cheriei Kegohri Minori. Its an
- 'tn» ancient Church neatly repaired of
late, and the greateii Parifh Church
in Rome,
fht ?al- From hence I went to fee the pal-
lacesf lace oj Burghefi which is hard by.
Burgbtfs. This 1S one oi the nobleit Pallaces
in Rome. Ic gives you a fair broad-
fide of windows, three ftorie* one
.over another 5 and its length is pro-
digious. Mounting up tothechan>
bers I found a fair open gallery
built upon arches and pillars round
about the Court. This gallery lets
you
Of Ita ly 239
you into fevcral appartiments*, and
on that fide which overlooks the
Piazza-,1 faw a row of ten or twelve
great chambers through which I
looked at onctf. In thefe chambers
and the other rooms, I obferved
thefe things. 1. Rich hangings and
over them rare painting made by a
Capuein Lay- brother. The hiitory of
the Queen of Saba coming to vifit
Solomons Court, and the rapt of
the Sabiner-, which make this Fregio
over the hangings , are fo rarely
well done , that Raphael and Mi-
chel Angelo would not have mended
them for colours. 2. A great Cabinet
of Ebeny, fetwith hiiloiies caft in
gold , and fet with rich pretious
ftones > its valued at threefcore
thoufand crowns. 3. A rare picture
of Hercules and Antens. ^.Kaph^eh
own pidrure. 5. Thclaftfrpptr by
litijM. 6. The tcrrafs and garden
with box knots and fountains of
' watcr,all at the very top of the houfe
and overlooking the ftreet, river ,
meadows and S. Peters. 7. The little
back^pallery of pitlmes-^vht re among
others, I was (hewn the pictures of
Marti*
24Q The Voyage
M*n'w Luther, Nicolas Macchiavel 3
and Ctfar Bergia > the two laft great
corruptors of Policy, and Manners.
8. The low cool gallery full of ftatues
'and pidtures,efpecially of the Borghe-
fan Family. That of Paulus ghtinws
inafmall mofaick work is fcarce
to be difcovered from painting : as
alfo the affumption of our Lady in
the fame work. There I Taw alfo
litians own pi6ture, and the rare
Cmctfx made by Michel Angela, fo
to life, that fome men have fabu-
louily given out that he drew it af-
ter acrucifyedman.
From hence I went to fee the
M.iufokum Augujii, or the Tomb
■Mau[o. of Augtifius Cafar , Handing near
hum An- $. R cj(s Church in a private place
% u ft u hard to b^ found our. It was once
one of the neatell; itru&ures in Rome.
And it was but fitting that the 'fi'rft
of the' Emperors mould have an
honourable tomb > and that he who
having found Home built of brick
only had left it all of marble, (hould
have a marble monument ere&ed to
' him after his death. V Mm Later i-
tiam invent , msrmjream relinqua :
laid
Of Italy 241
faid Augujim. The Maufokum was Suet0
around building of white marble,
going up with tour itories fet round
with pillars,and each iiery growing
leiTer and leiTer, with green trees fet
about every Hory i having at the top
of all, the brazen (tatue of Augustus*
It was two hundred and fifty cubits
high. But now its much defied, and
weieefomthing of thegreatnefs of
it,but little of its beauty.
Going from hence to the Church
ofS. Afiiony of Padua belonging to S.Ant.di
the fqnugheft , I law the Tomb p
of the Gi'wiC Canonilt and Cafitifl
Navarre or Martin sJfj)elcuita } with
his iiatue in butto over it. This good
man hearing hovv bis great friend
Caranza was called to Rome to
anfwer for fyimfelf in points of doo
trine, which he was talily accufed
of followed him thither of his own
accord , to defend his caufe and
clear hii» Jnnocency,aJid having done
it, dkdhere.
Near to this Church ftands the */*"*"
Church and Convent of the Auftin
Friers.. \n the Church I faw the -
Tomb of S. Monica mother to
S.
Eibliotht-
ca»Ange-
lica.
Joachims
Vrophecit
ef the
Turkj.
t.Apol-
livaris.
?h» Ger-
man Col'
ledge,
-the ?al-
lozzo d'
Mump.
242 The Voyage
5. Ateinftin. Here alfo lies buryed
Onufriits Tanvinus,* fryer of thiscon-
vent, learned in facred antiquities,
& in the Hebrew tongue.In thecon-
ventl often faw the neat Library,
called Bibliotheca Angelica, becaufe
Angelus Rocca, a Bifhop and Mailer
of the Popes Sacrijiy, gave it at his
death to his Convent jwith an obli-
gation of letting it be open in the
mornings. Among many curious
books , I remember to have ften
there the Prophecies of Joachim,
where among other things, he
faith, that the Turks (hall be* over-
come and ruined by three nations :
by the French, -proper boms tquof.
by the Engltjh , propter bonos mari-
narios : and by the Venetians, prop-
ter bonum coyifiHum. Thefe are his
very words.
Near to the forefaid Church
ftands the Church of S. ApoUinaris,
& the Gfrw*7zcolledge.Htre the bell
fingers of Rome meet conftantly.
Over againft this Church ftands
the Pallacc of the Duke of AUemps :
In which I faw the great Hall,
and in it, the Triumph of Bucchm
in
O' It Air 245
in a bajfo rilievo cut in marble wkh
exquifite art. I law alfo here the re-
presentation of a Town cutinwood,
an ancient and curious piece. The
picture of our B. Lady with her (on
in her armes,valued at five thoufand
piitolsj it is of Raphaels hand* The
neat Library full of divers good ( ma-
nufcrip'ts and ether books. In fine
the noble Chappel with the tomb of
S. Anackt Pope under the Altar
with the head of this Saint in the
Saerify, enchafed in filvcr and (et
thick with rich ftones. The rich
-ornaments here for the Church fer-
vice, coft the Duke a hundred and
twenty thoufand crownes. s. 7elt»
From hence, in fine, I went to S. rlerentm
John F 'lor ml ins, a neat Church be- Church
\ • longing to the Fioremns^ at whole
I coft it was built. Here is in one of
the Chappels the pi&ure of our
Saviours Refurre&ion made by Lan-
franc a rare piece. And being lodged
near this Church , I found that I
had wandered over all Rome, and
was now come again to the Bridg
of S. Avgelo-> where I began my firS
<layes journey through Rome.
L 1 But
itrluU
Lib.de
Speftac,
CAO.
But feeing that in fuch townes as
this,thcre is alwayes fomthing to be
feen after all, I made many irregu-
lar excurfions up and down Rome^
to view many things, which I had
not taken in my direct way before :
as fome pallaces,fome rarefountains,
clivers antiquities, ftudies of virtuofi y
tnd the like , which I have been
forced, for methods fake, to pafs
over : yet becaufe there are whole
bookesof all the pal)aces,foun tains,
ftatucs, and antiquities, fet forth in
cuts and pictures I remit my Reader
to them while I ask one queftion.
Where are nowthofe rare pieces
of antiquity which hiftories rather
mention , tban we finder now in
Home ? as the Cjtnboum Marii j the
Gregfifiafs j the Curia Hollilia '■> theV:
Golden Houfe of If,; j the Theater
of Pvtnrey , of which Tcrtullian
faith , Tornpeiut Mjqvus Job fuo
tbtatro minor j the Fuium N?rv<g\
the Theater oiStatilm 1 am us i the
S ! ptiZ"7imrn Sdei, iht TuWer of
frkcttnth i the Hi}f dromus S the
Houle otGo)(iiirt>s\ tl)t Ctiuj Fla-
miniKs '•> the Circus Ma^mtts i the
Atrium
O f Italt 245
Atrium Libertatis i Scipio's houfe *
the Triumphal Arch of Auguftus
C<efar i oWemitian > and a world of
other fuch rare buildings, whereby
the Romans thought to have eter-
nized their memories i if you ask
for thefe things in books, you
(hall rind their names onely h if
you look for them now in Rome y
you mall rind no markcs at all of
them: which makes me cry out with
Petrark j Crede mib'i aiiis qnam h~ B ■ . , „
pdnsjundamtnws egttglorlt, at j.t rnKms g
m .■■[ma. : believe me true pe nunmt utriujqi
gl:ryj}.in.'s in mid of other found*- &rt,
iinvs ibantbe/e ofjianc. Hence Janus
Vitilif an ingenious Italian Poet*
having cbferved, that all the old
■maffive buildings of Rome are moul-
tered away, and that Fluide Tyber
onely remains lull, cryes out with
this {weet moral.
l&ifct bine quidyoflit fortunayimmjti*
lib faint.
Et que psrpetuo fu:it fluitura., mmviU
But I cannot leave Rom' without
taking notice of the Devotion, Mu-»
fick Ceremonies ) (ho , .vs,Goverraenr,
and the inhjb: .an s of this place t of
L 1 2 each
246 Th-e Voyage
each of which I will *giv N e a touch 1
bqth for my Travellers fake, and my
Readers. . .
And ffr ft for the X\c votion. of Rome I
JjJSJ I found it to be- very great and real
in thofe places where the ghtarante
Hore and Stations are kept. ' For all
the year long the ^uarante Her?
go from. one Church to another,
through all the Churches o.f %swe\.
and there you (hall al waves fee a
world of devout people praying and
meditating, and hearing the fer-
mons, and giving of almes, and
all this with that profound refped
andfilence, with that affiduityand
concourfe, with that fervour and
/eal, that you need not ask where
.the ftationis, but onely obferve
where you fee the people flocking
lb f aft in the morning, and where
the poor make the greateft hedge
and lane.In other Churches of Ko me
upon their feftival dayes ( which
happen almoft every day , in one
place or other)they have the beftmu-
Cck can begot,and though this feems
to draw mens eares to the Church,
rather than their hearts > yet when
Of Italy 247
J I remember what elevated thoughts
it breeds in the mind*? and how
- innocently it" detaines mefl From
doing worfe-, I cannot but place
Church "mufick among the ads of
devotion*
Now, as for this-mufick, it is the ^|T f "
bett in the world, and in"the beft-^^
kind, which is voices. For my part 3
having read in a le*arned Author,
r that the Rating of mufick if a fign • O
of a foul quite out of tune, and not
right ftrung for predeftination j and
that the Scythian king, who held the • '
neighing^of his horfe , to be far
better mufick, than the pipe of fa-
fmous 'fblmotheus, was held for an
afshim(elf>I thought it both come-
ly and law full to love mufick : and
being in a place where the beft mu-
fick was, I frequented it often with
fingular fatisfaclion. Now the beft
mufick I heard, was the mufick of
the Popes Chappel confifting of
pure voices, without any organ, or.
other inftruments: every finger here
knowing his part fo well, thatthey
feem all to be mafters of mufick.
Then the mufick of the Cbiefa
. Nova >
148 The Voyagi
Nov* '■> of S. Apllinarif i upon S.
Cecilyes day in the Church of that
Saint the Tatrenefs of fingers * of
the Oratory of S. Marcello every
Friday in Lentiof the Jefuits during
the $fytarant chore in Shrovetide, of
every good Church of Nunns upon
cheir patrons day •■> efpecially that of
the Nunns of Campo Marzo? where
I heard often Fonfeca fing fo rarely
1 well, that fne feemed to me, to
1 cheer up much the Church in its
combats-, and to make the Church
Militant either look like the
Church I'riumfhant^ or long for it.
In a word, whofoever loves mufick
«nd hears but once this af Rome,
thinks he hath made a faving
journey to Rome, and is well payed
for all his paines of coming fo
tar.
Having given my eares many a
break- faft upon the mufick^ I gave
Uk Cere- my eyes many a Collation upon the
mimes. Ceremonies of Rente , which were
chiefly thefe. The Ceremony of tfae
Popes opening of the Porta Santa y
oi S.Pefer/^Church in the Juhilyytar.
"ilie Ceremonies of the Popes Chap-
pel,
Of Italy 249
pel, when he aflifts there, efpecially
upon Caridlemafsday, Palmfunday,
Manday Thurfday &c.The ceremo-
ny of the Popes walhing of thirteen
pilgrims- feet i of his finging mafs
public kly in S. Peters Church upon
S. Peters day and other great days i
the Ceremony of Beatifying and
of Canoniz ng of Saints * the Ce-
remony of his creating new Car-
dinals , and giving them their
cappin publick ConiiUtory, the Ce-
remony of the Mafs fung in Greek
and according to the Greeks rites, in
the Church of the Greeks Seminary 9
upon theFealt of the Epiphany, and
S. Atbanafius his day jthe Ceremony
of baptizing the Jews jwith a world
of others. One ceremony I was not
unwilling to mifs in my fivcteveral
voyages, becaufe italwayes implies
the death of a Spiritual Father, I
mean, the Ceremony of a Sede Va-
cante:zr\d of all the bad compliments
that ever I heard made, I like "one
fo ill as that of a noble man of Ger-
many , who being asked by Pop«
Innocent the X,whether he had Teen
all theCermoniesofK<?me,anfwer«
L 1 4i ed,.
3$0 T HE VCYAGI
ed, that he had feen all, but* Side
Vac ante, as if he had faid > Holy
Father, 1 have feen all the fine fights
of Rome, but your death. A horrible
"tramontane compliment, which put I
even the Pope himfelf to a fmile.
j. As for thefhowes, I law divers,
both Sacred and prophanc, As the
wippingproceffios in the holyweek.
ffioives Thegreat proceffiS from S- Mareellos
»f Komt. Oratory to S. Titers Church upon
&Krei. 'jMandayThurfday.in the holy year,
then Spaniftv Froceffioa m Piazza
Navona uponEafterday in the morn-
ing in the Holy year. The Pro-
ceffion of the Zitih upon our Ladyes
day in Lent. The Proceffion of the
Prielts of the Orttory upon flirove-
tuefday to the feven Churcheswith
rive or fix thoufands perfons follow-
ing of them, all whom they treat
in an open held, giving every one a
couple of hard eggs, and a (lice of
Jalfigia, with bread and wine. The
feveral Cavattatas of the Pope and
Cardinals. The Spanijh Cavatcats
upon S. feters Eve , when the
Spanifh Embaifador preients the
purfe of gold, and the Gennet. The
Girandola and hre works upon S b
O f Italy
251
TW'sEve, and divers fuch likefa-
cred triumphs.
For the Prophane Showes, I law
the folemn Entryes of EmbalTadors, *™t hctHS
efpecially thofe of Obedience,where
each Princes EmbaiTador ftrives to
outvye the other, and by exceflive
expences make their matters great-
neis appear above that of others.
Their Cavalcatasto court upon their
publick audience : their reception
in a publick confiitory:their audience
of Leave, are all ftatcly. Then the
curious Ojrere, or mutical Vrammata
recited with fuch admirable art,and
fct forth with fuch wonderfull
changes of Scenes, that nothing can
be more furprizing. Here I have
(ten upo their ikges,riversfwelling-,
& boats rowing upon them, waters
overflowing their banks and ftage,
men flying in the air ferpents crawl-
ing upon the itage /'houies falling
on the fuddain^ Temples and Bofcot
appearing,' whole towncs, known
Townes, itarting up on the fuddain
with men walking in the ftreets* the
fun appearing and chafing away
dacknefs., fngat plumms fall upon
1 L 1 5 the
»5* Tat Voyage
fpe6tators heads like hail, rubans
Ham in the ladies faces like lightning
with a thoufand fuch like nprefen-
tations.In hue, the Carneval pomps
in the Greets exhibited by no-
blemen with great coft and glory.
«$* G»- ^ s *" or t ^ ie Government of Rome, I
wtrnmetn found it divided into two parts .-the
•fRomt, Government of the City, & the Go-
vernment of the Church.That of ihc
City is exactly performed by a Go-
^ernour(fome prelate ofgreatparts)
conftituted by the Pope to watch
over the City careful iy , and to
render to him an account weekly of
all that paffeth.This Governour liv-
eth alwaies in the heart of the City,
and hath befides his own guards, a
Barigelio or Captain of the Sbirri or
Sergeants, to keep all in order and
awe, both day, and night. This
Barigello hath, Argus like, a hun-
dred eyes to fpy into the deportmets
of all that live in Rome, ^nd^Bria-
rem like, as many hands, to carry
to prifon thofe that infringe the
Lnwes. Hence juftice here is as
exactly pcrormed, as orders are
sjifcreetly given out f The prices of,
all
Hk* City*
G f Italy 253
all things are printed and affixed in
publick places and (hops •■> Inns and
Taverns are bound to have them fee
up in their entrance, that Grangers
may know the rates of all provifions,
and blame none but themfelves, if
they be couzened. So that its as hard
a thing to be couzened here , as its
hari not to be couzened in other
places, And for thofe that cannot
read, or fpeak the language well,
Sbirri will aske of them, what they
paid a meal, how much for a pound
of meat , how much for a pint of
fuch and fuch wine, &c. and if they
find them to have been couzened
either in the quantity, weight, or
price , they'l right the ftranger
beyond his expectation, and punifh
the delinquent beyond his dtfire.
The laft Jubily year I was fhown
fome of the Sbirri in Pilgrims habit*
on purpofe, to mingle themfelves
withthj othcrpilgrims,the bctterto
obferve how they were ufed or
abufed by their Hoiks in Inns and
Taverns, and accordingly punifh 1
them. In fine, jufticeis fo wellad-
itoiiiiftred here, and imprifoning
eafe$
§54 The Voyage
cafes fo many, that the lalt Prince of
Conde being in Rome, faidhcwon-
dred much at one thing there,which
was to fee fo many men go out of
their houfes in the morning , and
returnhome again to. dinner with-;
out being imprifoned. A knife in a
mans pocket, a dark Lantern, a
fword worn without leave, 6cc.will
fuffice to make a man be fent to
prifon:& a pocket piftol found about
you, or in your cloakbag, is enough
i to make you be fent to the Gallies
with tre tratti di eorda, that is, the
ilrappada thrice : yet they mitigate
fc the rigour of thefelawes to ftrangers
who offend out of ignorance.
! Asforthegovermentofthechurch,
&# § f that's done partly by the Pope him-
tkt t bwtl felf in feveral Congregations held
before him : partly by his Vicar
General, a Cardinal who hath under,
him a Viu~Germt f aBifhop) to help
him.Ther^s fcarcea day in the week
but the Pope holds one Co»grcgati5
or other, about Church affairs, in
which Congregations not onely car-
dinals intervene, but alfo Biflhops
andDoftorsifc where all bufineffe$
are
Of Italy 25^
are headed , as well as handled with
great deliberation. Every : 3 weeks
the Pope holds a Confifiory , where
all the Cardinah.thrt are in Rome,
meet his Holyncfs , as at a Grand
Council , to advife. with him con-
cerning the neceffary affairs of the
Church. And its pretty to fee how
like the motions of a well ordered
watch , all bulineffes here move at
once, and yet never interfere or clafh
with one another.
As for the Inhabitants of Rome
they follow* he fortune of their Citie f* uU '
■ I,. i en ants or
and as when Rome, was but yet a new Komit J
towne , the inhabitants were but
three thoufand in all , faith Diony-
Jlurfo when it was come to its full
growth, it had three or four millions
of people, in fo much that in a great
plague the bills of mortality came to
ten thoufand men a day, and this for .
many dayes together : fo now Rome e "j e Q „] ( '£
having been fix times fackt and
ruined ( as I faid above) is not the
tenth part fo populous at. heretofore
it was '■, and even thofe inhabitants
that are now in Rome, are for the
molt part originary from other parts
of.
Catfod.
Xffi.
256 The Voyagi
of Italy and Europe '•> and have been
drawa to take up here either by
preferments or buiinefs. The nobili-
ty it felf is for the major part for-
rain and fprung out of fuch families
of Popes, Prinees, and Cardinals a s
have been forraign before their pro-
motions and preferments. The
true ancient and illuftrious Roman
families I found to be thefe few ,
Vrfini-, Colonna, Savelli, Frangepaui
and fome few others.
Having thu?,as painters do, taken
Rome in all her poftures , I confefs
it happened to me, as it did to
Appelles taking the picture of
Compafpe } that is, by looking fo
often and fo attentively upon Rome
I began to be fo far in love with it,
as not only to fubfcribe to Cifliodo-
rut his opinion, who affirms it
to be a kind of crime Hot to live in
Rome, when you can do it. Piaculi
genus (ft abfentem fibi Rom*>n diu*
tins facers qui in ca conftitmis pffit
laribm babitare'ibut alfo to fubfcribe
to our old Brittai n Kings, Cadwalla-
der, Cedwalla , Coenred, Offa , In a
and Butrbed-i who thought -Romt.
alfo
Komi a
Q? Italy. 257
a-lfo the beft place to dye in. For if
thole places be thought by all men,
the belt places to live in, where a
man may learn the moft experi- f- otn '
mental knowledge, 8c how to mzn- to i ivii „ a
age great affairs -, where can a man
learn more knowledg than in Rome*
where all languages are fpoken, all
fciences are taught, the ablefi; men
of Europe meet, all the beft records
are found, all wits appear as upon
their true theater, all forraign Em-
baffadours render themfelves, all
Nuncios at their return to Kome
unload themfelves of the obferva-
tions they have made abroad i and
where every itone almoft is a book »
every ftatuea mafterjevery infcrtytion
a teflon, every Ant'ich amber an Aca- ■*"* *
demy ? And again, it thofe places^j^
be the belt to dye in, where all com-
forts of the foul are belt had \ what
place can be better to dye in than
Rome? the very center and, bofome it
felf of Catholick Communion j and
where there is Co much devotion, 8c
fo much vertue pracl'ifed,and where
you have this comfort in your
grave?,
My jour-
cey jrom
JLome to
'258 The Voyage
grave » that you lie in a ground
which hath been bathed in the blood
of fo many thoufand martyrs.
And thus much of Rome, in the
defcribingof which, if I have beea
too Prolixe^ remember that great La*
dies are long in drefling:if too (hort,
remember chat I only relate what
I fa w there, not all that is to be Cccn
there.
Having thus feen Rloine^ I agreed
with the Proeaccio, to carry me to
Naples. Others take with them a
Vetturinn ^thzt lets them have horfes,
and dyets them to > I mean, defrayes
a man for meat and drink and horfc
hire both going, and coming, and
your horfe rive d ayes at Nap les (but
not your dyet there) and lets you
have his horfes two dayes, to go fee
Vesuvius and Pozzolo •> and all this
for fourteen, or 15 crowns a man.
Its true, a man is ill lodged, and
badly treated in that journey, but
it doth a gentleman good to be ac*
quainted with hardfhip.
Parting then from Rome by the
Gate of &. John Lateran we patted
through thefe places.
Of Italy 259
Marino , a neat little town be- Mmm
longing to Cardinal Cohnna. It
looks like a painted town.
Vtktri) famous for the birth of VtUtrl
the ancdters of Auguftus Ctfar.
Here's a brazen Statue ofVrban the
Vllljand a neat pallace and garden
of Cardinal Ginettu Its an Epifcopal
town.
The Tre l^herm where S.Paul was j* r< j^
met, at his rirlt coming to Rome-, by btrnt.
tb$ Cbriftiaw of. Rome. A&. 28. v.
Peperno where Camilla the Ams- p e ^ru^
zfin was born.
FojfaNuova where S. Thomas ofJ'ff*
Aquin going to the council of Lyons, m9VMt
fell lick and dyed.
taracina (old Anxur) the head f ara(l „ at
Town of the Vdfcians , but now
bare and baldj (hewing nothing but
fome old mines of the haven which
Ammviw Fiur here adornedi and of
an old Temple. Its an Epifcopal
town.
Not far from hence ftood an-^% f/ *»j
ciently the town AmycU, that Pj-
tfragorical town, which was ruined
by
l6®
The Voyage
I
Mertt. in
lib. 10.
Jttieid.
Amy das
by Serpents, becaufe none would kill
therrr, Pythagoras his do&rine forbid-
ding men to kill any living creature.
Another time it was ruined by fi-
knce '-> no man daring to fpeak of the
enemies comings too many falfe a-
larms having made the Magi-
strates forbid under pain of death 8
that no man (hould fpeak any more
cf the enemies comingyfo that when
they came indeed , no man durft
fpeak of it. Thus not only Philo-
sophy, but.' even iilence it felf and
Obedience, two noble vertues, are
^eJidh* hurtful t0 men J if me V be not ac ~
ploverl companied with difcretion.
apud S.
Vitrei).
Fundi.
From Taracina we went t& fundi
to (upper, having patted through a
forrcft of bay trees, and through an
open gate called X?ortello y which lets
men into the Kingdom of Naples.
Fundi is fo called becaufe its built
in a low flat. Its ancient if you be-
lieve your ears, not your eyes. For
it looks younger, than the other
towns I had pafled through before.
■The reafon is , becaufe this town
was burned fome 1 30 years ago by
Car ad in
O p ir-AtT 261
Caradin Barbarozza-, admiral cf the
Great Turk Solyman. It was this Lt * tf ei
Caradin, who of a famous Pyrat ,
became King of Alghrt* having
perfvvaded thofeof Algiers to (Inks
off the Spamjh yoke, This Caradin
being upon the Mediterranean Sea ,
and hearing by his fpies, that Ju-
lia Gonfaga ( widow of Vcfpjfian
Colonna^nd (he handfomeft woman
in the world) lived here in Fundi,
landed his men in the night , and
fentthem to catch her napping-, re-
folving to make a fine prefent of
her to his lewd.mafter Solyman. But
fhc leaping out 01 her bed, rid a- .
way in her very linnen.& efcaped Co
narrowly, that had (he fiaid to put
on any cloths, fhc had for ever, put "
off all liberty. The Pyrats miffing
of this fair Helena , failed not to
make a burning "Troy of Fundi j
ranfacking it and carrying away
the beft of its inhabitants: fuch
dangerous things are great beauties
to weak towns.
From Fundi we went to Msla, rhe riit
upon the Vim Appia, fo called be- Atfi*.'
caufe Appins Claudius a Noble
Roman,
2^2 The Voyage
Roman made it at his own cofr
during his Confulat. This Cawfey
is one of the greatefi: proofs of the
Romans greatnefs and riches. For it
was-five dayes journey longi begin-
ning at Rowland reaching through
the Kingdom of Naples to Bmn-
dnfrnm. It was as broad as two carts
' might e'jfily meet upon it and pafs :
it was all of great black flint {tones.,
each one as big as two men can
carry, arid laid lb clofe together ,
f " f ;!!" ' that they have held together thefe
Graetbo.] l ° 00 years, and ieem, as Froco-
pius faith- ingenioufly, to be rather
congeniti, than congefli^ born toge-
f ?/?»' tner > tnan lai< * to g ctner - Tilc fre-
quent pafling of horfes and mules
(for fo many years J upon this
cawfey , have made it both Co
fmooth and Alining, that when the
Sun (hines upon it , you may fee
itglircer two miles of, like a fiiver
highway.
Arriving at M0/0, called an-
ciently Fornv.S) I went to lee Ci-
cero's tomb which ftands in a garden
not far off. And I the more wil-
lingly believe, it to be his Tomb,
becaufe
I de bell
Goth.
MoU
SormU.
O f Italy 26%
becaufe its certain , that tufty had
a Villa 'mFormiU ( which was this
place) and thither he was going in
his litter, when he was overtaken V(i \ t
by the executioners of the triumviri m*x.L
and beheaded, There are no words 1.^4.
upon his Tomb > of which if you
ask me the reafon , I can only
tell you, that either words in profe
could not fpeak , their lully being
dead - , orverfes would not, out of
envy, praife him, who had made
profe (0 famous.
Having feen this, fome of our
Company and I, took a boat and
four lully watermen, to row us to
Cacta and back again, while the C(teta
reft flayed at Mola to provide
dinner. Arriving in little more
than half an hour at Ca'eta , we
went up to the Cattle, where we
faw the Skelkton of Charles Bour-
bon, once Conftable of France, but
afterwards taking againft his own .
King upon a difgufi, he ferved the
Emperor Cbxrles the V, and was
made one of his Generals, and Go-
vernour of Millan. Where having
borrowed money of the MiUnefi, &
having
ZkeBp
0'
265 T HE VOYAGI
having laid a deep curfg upon
>f Beiiey himCelf ( wishing he might die in
in his bif- the fir ft enterprife he undertook )
tories. jf fo e paid not back the money by
fuch a time, he failed in his word,
but his curfedid not. For his next
enterprizc was to go lack Rome : and
there his curfe met him as he fcaled
the walls i and being fhcjt with a
musket bullet he was forced to pay
his debt to nature, His body was
2o«,i CW( 'Carryed to Casta, where it (tands
Body. with its cloths, boots and fpurs
01^ in a long box /freight up, with
this Spanijh Fpitaph over his head ,
Fr'ancia mi dio la lecehe ,
Efpagna los y Ventura^
Roma mi dio la mutrte^
Gacta la Sepoltura.
Trance gave me milk^ Spain great em-
ployments gave,
Rome'gave me death) and here Cad
a grave.
This Caftle ftanding upon a Pro-
montory overlooked! the town*
and thirty miles of Sea. Intheend
The do- of the town, towards land fide for
veu .K«<L-this Town is a pure PmhfuU., I \\w
the Cloven Rock^ which Tradition
here
Of Italy 264
here holds to have been thus cloven
at our Saviours death ; The long
ftairs going down between the two
mountains in the very open gafh,
and rend ring you to* a neat chappel
below, (hike you all the way long
with a facred reverence, and are
able almoft to rend alfoa itony heart
in two, with the thought of our Sa-
viours paflion.
Upon the top of all this ?romon~
iory there is an ancient monument of
Manutins PlancHs an old Roman ,
with a great deal of old Latin upon
it ■■> bur my riding boots put mc
out of all reading humour,and I was
very willing to let Vlancus lye
quietly in his monument above, fo
I could but recover again our
boat & there fit ft:!l. Of this town
was the famous Cardinal Cdctcinus,
of S. Thomas Aquinas his name,
order, and almoit learning. This
town was built by Mntu in ho-
nour of his Nurfe Caeta who dyed
here.
Returning again to Mol.i we Clciro > s
went after dinner to fee Ciceto^Grom.
Grotte, and fo away.
We
gliano.
Min-
tuma
166 The Voyage
We had not ridden three hours
sit ierrj but we came to the Ferry of Cari-
efcari- g\i ano 5 near to which I faw the
fair refis of an old Amphitheater
(landing alone in the fields, with
the refts alfo of an AquedttttX won-
dered at firft to fee an Amphitheater
(landing alone , and far from any
great town: but upon enquiry, I
found that here had flood once a
noble town called Minturna, but
now fo ruined, that not one ftone
of itappeareth. Indeed we are often
at this fault in Italy, and look for
towns in corn fields. Luna, Fopttlo-
ma, Cuma, BjU , and Mint urn a
cheat thus our expectations, and
leave; us no monuments of them-
felves , but a poor Ftiit Ilium ,
which though it be travellers lofs,
yet its mans comfort, that towns
do dye as well as he : Hence ;Rrt«
Nm ind'ignemur -wort alia corpora Joi-
nt '■>
Cernimus exempli* oppida pjfe mor'u
Having paiIed|ovcr the river in
a -Ferry boat, we entred upon the
meadows
Of Italy q6j
meadows , in whofe Fens ( called
the Fens of ' Minturna) Cains Ma-
rius lay hid a while, and there with
his (tern looks and manly voice 3 fay-
ing, dareft thou kill Cains Marius ?
Co terrifyed the Have that was fent
thither to kill him, that he let him
efcape to his lhip,and fo into 4fri c k* plutark,
He uny fpeak big that fpeaks for
his life •■> and any looks become a
man, when he looks to himfelf well
in dangers.
While we rode along thefe me a* •
dows we faw before us the moun-
tain of Giro, anciently called Mom
MjjJicHS , famous for excellent
wines -, as well as the country there
about, which was called Ager Faler-
tittsy Co famed by Poets tor itsfr-
nam FaUmwn*
Palling thus along we came at
night to S. Agatbx^ and the next
morning betimes we entered into
Campania Fxllx, Co fumamed be-
caufe of its admirable air, wonder- £f$*"
full plenty of corn and wine, and
pleafant profpedls on all fides ,
which makes an Ancient call it,Ccr-
t&mm Cereris & Bacchi, the itrife
Mm o£
1st //*.
268
The Voyage
i
§ap»a.
of Ceres and Bacchus. It was th:S
Country which with it's delights,
broke Hannibals army » which nei-
ther (now could cool , nor Alpes
flop, nor Romans vanquish , faith
Seneca- Indeed the pleafantnefe of
rhis Country made us a full mends
for all the ill way we had had be-
fore : nature having fet that fcurvy
way there on purpofe that,me might
like her Favorite Campania the bet-
ter after it. I call this Country Na-
tures Favorite, in imitation of JP/wj,
who calls it, €pns gaudentis nature^
that is, a Country made by nature,
when (he was in a goed humour. Its
a Heathen that fpeaks , and you
muft pardon him.
We intended that day to have
gone to Capua, to dinner, but when
we came thither, we did not find it
at home. For this town now called
Capua is two miles diftant from the
place where old Capua.(\ood, Indeed
the old Capua was a town of im-
portance : for it was either thefe-
cond, or third in the world h and
flood in competition , as Carthage
c'iJ, withFWf; Nay, it demanded
of
O? It alt 2$y
of Rome to fee ufed like a (iiter,nct
like a Subject i audi ftood high up-
on it,that one of the annual Confute
mould alwaies refide here. But that
Capua is vanifhed with its vanity j
and this Capua hath no reafon to be
Co proud, being famous for nothing
but that action of many noble women
here, who to avoid the infolencks
of the French Soldiers (received into
the town friendly; leapt into the
river Vulturno to fave their Virginity
8c honour i from their-kwdnefs : an
a&ion rather wonderful, than war-
rantable. There is a Caftlc here of
pretty ftrength.a good river, and an
Af eh-bifhops Seat.
FromC^tf we palled through
dverfz, a fweet Seat of a town, and
once great, till [harks theT,King of
N^p/fx,almoft ruined it. Its a B (hops
Seat 1 1 i 11. Here it was that Queen
Jeanne of Naples ftrangled her
iiusbltid Andre afro* ami was her felt
not long alter, fervedfo too in the
fame place. Travelling fome eight
miles further we came to Naples
before we could fee it. This Town
M m s was
Set S. '
Aug.i.z.
ii merib.
EccltJ.
And S.
Tfow».2.
i.qu 64.
art*$m
Aver ft*
Kfiphfi,
Treafor.
270 The Voyage
was anciently called Parthenope
from one of the Syrens. Its now cal-
- traS * e< * Neaprfv, a sew City > becaufe
Rem»- the inhabitants of Cum* haviwg ,
aldoinhis out of jealoufie, ruined Parthenope,
CroHolog, W erefore vexed with a plague, till
they had built it up again better
than before. This happened about
the year of the world 1449.
As for Naples, its now the head
ofa great Kingdom fo called. This
Kingdom belonged once to the Em-
peror : but after that it had been
overrun by Sarazins, and freed by
Pope John the X united with Albe-
rico Marquis of Tofcany, it acknow-
ledged the Church for its Mif-
trefs, and the fir ft man that was
invefted by the Pope ( Innocent the
II, Ii}e.3 was Roger the Second,
a Normand. Since that time ,
the French and the Spaniard have
ftrugled hugely for this Kingdom:
fometimes the one plucking it to
him, tken the other. But now its
under the Spaniard^ who holds it of
the Pope, and for it payeth every
year thepurfe of gold & the Gennet
fpoken of above.
This
The
Ki»g-
dtmoj
O f Italy 271
This Kingdom is of great impor- _ .
unceto Spain. It makes his party tanct tQ
too ftrong for Frame in Italy. Its fain.
correfponds conveniently with Si-
cily , and Milan , and itrengthens
them both. In fine 3 it beareth up
notably the interest of Spain Jin the
Court of Rome: and it (queezeth.it
felf now and then , into huge
fumms, four millions of crowns ,
to fend tribute into Spain? coffers .
For this Kingdom is a thoufand five
hundred miles in compafs , four
hundred and fifty wide. It hathin
it twenty Arc'nbithops Seats i a
hundred and twenty tive Bifhops s P ia '
J l . tlC \$m
Sears-, a thoufand five hundred
Bourgsjtwo millions of fouls: ten
principalities* twenty three Vntcbiesi its
thirty Marquifats > fifty four Coun-A'****'
ties i and about a thoufand Baro-
nies, wHereoffour hundred are an-
cient. It can raite a hundred and
fifty- thoufand foot, and a hundred
thoufand horfe. Its ordinary fqua-
dron of gallyesarebut 2©.
As for the town it felf of Naples, The town
if it it be the third of Italy for great- ofH*ples.
nefs, it is the firft for ttrength and
M m 3 neatnefs
I
272 The Votage-
neatnefs-, and therefore defervedly
furnamed, LaGcntik, the Gentile.
It hath Campania on one fide of it,
and the Mediterranean Sea on the
other : fo that its fed by natures
heft dugs, Sea and Land. Its air
was alwaies efkemed fo pure, that
the great men of Rome had eitjaer
their ViHas in Naples, or hard by.
its well built, well paved, well
fcrnifhed with exce lent provifions,
well tilled with nobility, and the
nobility well mounted. The chief
fireet isjirada di Toledo, paved with
frecftone, and flanckt with noble
Pal laces and houfes. We entered,
into fome of them, and others we
faw which had not recovered their
tmbonpoint fince they had been lick
of Mazankllos difeafe: Their very
looks (hewed us that their iicknels
had been Cmvulfion-Fits. The
chief Pallaces are thele : The ftate-
ly palhce of the Viceroy, that of
Gravina, Caraffa, Vrfino, Snlrnone ,
Toledo, &o Moft of the houfes of
N.iples are made flat at top, to walk
upon : a moft convenient thing to
breath upon in the frefti Evenings,
and
OF ITALY 271
and eafie to be imitated by other
countreys.
I faw here alfo the feveral pub-
lick places of afifemblies of the nobi-
lity , according to their feveral
rancks. Thefe places are like open
walking places, rayPd about with
high iron rails, and painted with-
in.
Then the Mb running a quarter
of a mile into the Sea, and affording T ' je M * l9 >
great refreshment to the Towns
men, who walk here in the evenings
in fummer, where they are fureto
cool their lungs with a fwett frejeo.
At the end of the Molo ftands moun^
ted the high Lanterne to direct (hips
home fafe in the night i and a fine
fountain of fre(h water.
As for the Churches here they
yield to none ill Italy. The Dome c l Hn y Sm
is ancient, and therefore out of the »/'N*jpto
mode a little : yet it hath a modern
Chappel which is very beautiful :
and is one of the fineft in Enrope,
both for brazen ftatues & rich paint-
ing. The Cupola was painted by
the rare hand or Vemenickino.ln this
ChappeL
Barenitti
& Bre-
•victrium
Rem.
Vetrm n
S. Ko-
muctldo
in his
Treafor
€ronelog>
ni an,
i<5c>4
the Aw
mtwciata
274 The Voyage
Ghappel is the tomb of S. Jannarim
Bifnop oiBencvent, and now Patron
of this townv whofe blood being
conferved in a little g^afsand con-
crete, melts and grows liquid when
its placed near to his head , * and
even bubles in the glafs.A. French no-
bleman Count of la Val^ was con-
verted from Calvinifme to the Ca<-
tholick religion upon fight of this
wonder. On the left hand of this
Chappel without, lies buried Pope
Innocent the IV, who ordered firff,
that Cardinals mould wear red
hats. The verfes upon his tomb
told me this. In the Sacrifty are
kept many pretious gifts of Prin-
ces, and divers relicks of Saims en-
chaled in gold and liiver.
The Annunciata is both neat and
devout: the Cupola 6c roof are weH
painted & gilt. The two Infants of
Bethlehem with their feveral wouds,
one in the heaci, the other in the
body, are fhewn here. The Holpi-
tal is joining to it, and is of great
reception: it maintains two thou-
sand lick and decrepid in if, befides
above
O f Italy 275
abave 8co orphans and poor chil-
dren.
Near the great Hofpital {lands
S> Peters Church, and before it the
Altar upon which (as the Infcrip-
tion faith )$. Peter (aid mafs at his
firlt coming to Ntflef.
The 'theatijts Church called S.
Pauls , is very neat; and if youfaw S.Fauh.
it with its belt hangings on, you
would think it one or the neateft
Churches in Italy. The roof is cu-
rtoully painted and gilt. Here I faw
the rich Tomb of Beaio Caetano
a holy man of this orderi & the Ta-
bernacle of the high Altar, both
veiy rich. In the Sacnfty they have
as rich ornaments as in any Church
of Italy.
The Jefuits Church here is the beff r ^
they have in Italy > if it be not a little Jefuits
too wide for its length. In the Sa- church
crifty I faw the richeir. ornaments for
the altars, and the bd\ filvcr candle-
sticks, that I have fcen any where
elfe.Its rich in painting, fculptures,
and marble. The High Altar was
not yet rmifhed, but promifeth won-
ders..
M m 5 The
hova
2-7-6 The Voyage
The Francifcans Church, called
S>MarU S>Maria Nova y is very trim with its
neat Chappels and Tombs, and gilt
rouf* Here I Taw the tomb of Ir
trecb, who commanded fo long the
Hrcwc/; Forces in this Kingdom. His
verme in military affairs was (b
great, that his- very enemies ad-
miring his worth, have caufed his
body to be tranflated out of an ob-
{cure place, where it lay before, in-
to this Church, and tomb. I won-
der they did not canfe thofc, words
©f Viroil to be put upon it.
Si Tergamx dextrfi defendipqjfent
tiiam hr.-c defeufafuijfmt.
The Church of the Dominic jks is
very, handfome too, if you do not
furprife it, and take it before it be
drilled. Ifawitonce in its beft at-
tire, hung with a rare fuite of em-
broidered hangings, which £et it
out with great advantage.Ifaw alfo
here the Crucifix, which fpoke to
S. Jhamat of Aquin the Dodor of
this order and Country, and faid 1
Rue derm- J'cripfifii Tbenu. Ifl the
Sacrifty of this Church are kept in
feveral coffins ( fome covered with
white > ;
•rtt Dp-
O f Italy 277
white, Come with black velvet J the
bodiesof feveral great perfons, de-
pofitated here till their Tombs
fhould be made : as of Alphonfo ths
firft, King of Naples and ArragonioF
Queen Ioanne the unfortunate: that'
or an Emperor of Conjiantimple :that
of Vurazzo : that of the Marquis of
Vajii : with divers others.
The church of the Olivet an Fathers The &-
is ftately : here lies buryed Alexan- UvetanL
der ah Alexandra a great antiquary ,'
whofe ingenious bo©k Gmiiltum
dkrum, gives light to many books
by the unlhelling ofa world of an-
cient cuftomes of the Romans. In'
this Church alfo is the tomb of
brave Marcbefe diPifiara^ furnamed !
the Thunderbolt of war. The.
words upon-this Tomb are fo inge-
nious, (that though I profefs not to
fet down many Epitaphs in this my,
voyage ) I cannot but itrive to car*
iy them into other Counties. They 1
are thefe.
QHi jacet hr>c gtlida fob ntartnorel
Maxima tile
Fifcator, belli glorh, pads bones.
Nwiqmd I
2 <73 T«: Voyage
Nunquid & hie pifies ceph ? Kfc/jw
Ergo g#i^ .? ZJrkes-,
Mtgnanimos Reges, ofpida, regna,
„ Duces.
Die quibus h&c cefit Fifeator retibtu *
Alto
Confilio-) mtrepido ccrde y alacrique
marm,
§hti tanium rapuerc ducem ? Duo,
Nttm'wa, Mars->Mors.
Vt raptrtnt quidnam compulit ? In*
vidia.
\ Nil nocttere ipji •> vivit mm Tama
fuperjlei,
^U£ i Martem & Mortem vincih
& Invidiam.
The Church of S.Jobn Carbonare
is considerable for it (elf,- but much
" more for the (lately tomb in it-', of
King Robert. In the Church of the
Nunnery which ftands at the foot of
the hill as you go up to the Cartbu->
fiansy I faw a moft curious Taberna-
cle upon the altar, of pretious po-
lifted (tones. Its one of the richeft
I have feen any where, but that of
florenee defcribed above.
Then \ye. mounted up that wind-
1 ' in g
Of Italy 279
irg hill to the Cartbufians Churchy . ; >
and Monaftery called S. Martins. Monnfte-
Its the molt fumptuous thing in all ry of the
Europe, for a Monaftery, whether Carthttfo
you regard its fituation, or its fa- ^"^
brick. Its fituated upon a high hill,
under the wing of the Cattle S EIrm 7
to put Caftks in mind, that they
ought to defend 8c protect religion.
The whole quadrangle,or cloyfter of
this monafrcry, is of, pure polifhed
white marble, paved with marble
fquares, and adomedround with a
balufter, and white marble pillars.
Thenentring into an open gallery f
we hadashne a profpedr. as Europe
can afford, not excepting that of
Greenwich, thought by Barclay^ the Barclay.
belt profpecr in Europe. For' here I h ° n r ^~
faw all Naple s under me, with the mr *""
perfect figjit of the 2 other Caftles,
with the haven, the M0/0, the Arfo-
nd^ the fhips, the Country round
about Ktpks , Mount Vtfuv'w ,
Vaufilipus ; the fhips at Sea, the
Promontories oi.MiJemm and Mi-
fierva^hc Ifle of Caprea^with a world
of ojher delightful fights. Then
1
tffo
The Voyage
I was led into the apartment of the
Padre Vifttatore, where I faw molt
neat rooms and fome good pi-
dures.Then going to the Church I
found it to exceed the cloy Iter which
before I thought to have exceeded
all other things. Its all of marble,
gilding,and painting.The pavement
is all of curious red & white marble
fquares, as is alfo the Sacrifty. The
Ghappels and pi&ures match the
roof, and the pillars with their par-
ticular grace?. -. The Sacrifty is abfo*
lutely the richeft I ever faw. The
great cupbords are of fuch a rare
Mofaick woodwork inlaid into pic-
tures, that itdifputes hard with the
Quire of the Dominicans in Bologna,
Here they (hewed me a great Cruci-
fix of frlver, which had been fifteen
years in making. The Remonftrance
to expofe the B. Sacrament in, is
made like a Sun, whofe beams arc
mingled with filver and coral. The
great candlefticks of maifive filver,
and the great flower pots are cu-
riouily wrought.
Then I went to fee the three
CaOlcs *
Of Italy. 281
Caftles > That of S. Elmo, which is Q ^ u ^
hard by the Carbufians, was built by Elm9
Charles the V.It itands well upon its
own guard by reafon of its high fi-
tuation : but I doubt whether it can
offend any enemy, except Naples it
felf which is under it.
The Caitlc Vovo, was built by
William the third of Normandy, upon Cafik
a rock in the Sea ■•, and from its oval Vovo.
form, Its called Cafiel Vovo. There
is a digue leading unto it from the
Land.
The Cafiel Nuovo, was built by caSfc
Charles of Anjm, defigned King of Nwvj.
Naples. It itands near the Molo,
and level with the town and Sea,
as if it could defend and of&nd
both.
Thefe three caftles are guarded by
natural Spaniards i and well fur*
nithed with great Canons,by whofe
language ( which is ultima Rath
Kegunii Kings laft arguments) the
Neapolitans are either catechifed in-
to duty, or threatened into obedi-
cnce.Indeed fuch a people & town
are not eafily brid!ed:fuch a wanton
courfer as Njplts 3 is not to be ridden
with,
282 The Voyage
with fnaffleSj it hath often plunged
under the King of Spain, but could
never fling him quite out of the
faddle, mene a gli tre Cajlelii.
Then I. went to fee the markets
T *" , here, 8c found them moft admirable,
efpecially thofe of fruit,which Cam-
pania fends hither : and were but
the taxes taken off, or reafonably
moderated , Naples would be the
cheapeft and richeit place in the
world. But the Kings officers if they
fuck in Milan-) and .rleece in Sicily,
they fley in Ntpkr , which ufage
drove the people feme years pair, in-
to fuch a defperate humor, that they
« w .io47 took up arms under the comandof
MazanieUo: his true name was Tho-
mas Angelus Maia> a poor fifher-
man without Stockings or Shoes,
who for ten dayes together, fwag-
gered here fo powerfully in tue
head of two hundred thoufand, mu-
tinous people, that when he com-
manded them to burn a houfe, they
did it: when he commanded them
to caft into the fire, all the goods,
papers,plate, beds,hangings ,6cc..of
the GabeUkrti they did it without
referving
Of I"taly 283
ferving the leaft pretious piece to
themfelves : when he commanded
them to cry out : Down with the
Galellf, they did it: when he put
his ringer to his mouth, they were
all .iilcnt again,as if this poor fiiher-
ttian had been the foul that ani-
mated that great body of people: It
was prodigious indeed that fuch ■ a
poor young man(not pafte^in wall-
coat and drawers, and his fifhers cap
on , mould find fuch obedience ,
from fuch rich and witty Citizens.
But as tumultuous people make arms
of every thing their fury meets with,
lo they make Captains of every man
that will but head them •, and as the
Proverb goes, Li ftdiiime vel An-
drtclides belli duzem agit. They
(hewed me the houfe of this fifher-
man : but the other houfes flicwd
me his fury. Thoufands have not
yet recovered thofe ten daies tu-
mults. Thus we fee that when men
are ripe for rebellion , Cromrveh's
and Mazanidls are cryed up for
great men: or rather when God hath
a mind to punifli, flies and gnats
are powerful things even againft
PWqces. Here,
iv-ts.
Learned
nun.
234 The V otage
_, Here are two Academies of wits
demies of 'he onc called the Ardently to (how
their ardour in ftudying : the other
the Qtiofi , wifely initituted as an
allay to the others heat,
Some of the famous men for lear-
ning of this town were.,old Statins,
rare Sarinazarius , Alexander ab
Alexandre^ and John Eaptifi Mart-
ni'. three excellent Poets, and one
Antiquary. Naples hath furnished
the Church with 1 8 Popes.
Having thus fcen the town it felf
of Naples, I was moit willing to fee
the wonders of nature which are
near unto it.Horfing therefore be-
times one morning we went with a
guide to fee Vefuv'w the burning
mountain, fome feven miles diftant
from Naple!. Our honeft guide
had ftudyed the hiftory of this hill,
and could tell how often it had
broken forth into flames fincc the
beginning of the world , that is,
twenty times. Xipbilinus the Epito-
mift of T>io relates at length one
that happened under the Emperor
Tittu. Butthelaft which happened
m the year 163 1, he remembered
very
T
Iht ,
Moun-
tain Ve-
fuvi*s.
Qf Italy 285
very well,and related it to me as we
went along, with a fad preface , of
Infandum Peregrine jubes renovare
doforemjbeczuk he could alfo fay, Et
quorum pars magna fit'h having been
an a&or in that diiorder. For he was
Sou to a rich husbandman here 3
and with much ado , JEneas like,
he had rtfeued his old father from
the afties of Vefnvius^ which over-
whelmed and buried whole Villa-
ges. Here faid he, pointing to the
places ltood a great vineyard one of
thebeftof the Country j but now
three fathom deep inafbes. Here
ftood a Village full of rich husband-
men and goodly houfes - , but now
ruined by the (tones (hotat it from
Vefuvius. Here itood once a pleafant
Villa, beautyfied with curious walks,
orange trees, fountains, and arbors,
but Jamciniseft ubi Villa fuit. In a
word, above two thoufand people
were burnt, lamed, or (lifted in
this eruption. Then he (hewed me
the vaft (tones which overcharging
theftomach of Vefuvius^ he had vo-
mited up, with fuch a boaking, that
Naph*.
286
The Voyage
N*tpkr thought the day of Judg-
ment had been at hand. Then he
fhewed me a channel , where a river
of fiery green matter mingled with
brimlrone, allum,iron water, & falt-
peeter, had run from that fpewing
hill. The manner of this breaking
outwasthus. The hill began firft to
(moke more vehemently than be-
fore. Then it flamed and calf out a
cloud of aflies, which, had the wind
flood toward the City, had covered
all Naples^ and buried it in thofe
afhes. Then it began to roar as if
Madam Nature her felf had been
in labour. Thunder wasbutpiftol-
crack to this noife : and the mouth
of a Cannon a full mile wide, mult
needs give a great report- It bellow-
ed & thundered again: Naples trem-
bled : thegrounct fwe led\* The Sea
it fclf fhivered for fear i when the
hill tearing its entrals with huge
violence was breught to bed of a
world of vaft ftones, and a floudof
Sulphurious matter which nn from
the top of the mountain nto the
Sea for the fpaceof three miles*
All this he told me , and
this
Of It a lt
2 a;
this hefhewed me. afterward, in a
publick inferiptionupon a fair mar-
ble (tone erected hard by. And all
this made me but the more defirous
of feeing this mountain. Wherefore
fpurring on, we came foon after
to the foot of the hilhwhcre leaving
our horfes we began to crawl up
that iteep hill for a good mile toge-
ther, to the midleg in alhes. At
laft, with much adoj we got to
the top of the hill i and 'peeping
fearfully ('remembering Pliny's ac-
cident; into the great hollow from
the biinckof it, found it t© belike
a vaft kettle, far greater than thofe
. Hell Kettles near Deflington in the see.Ea-
Bifhcprick of Durham , made by f^ers chro-
carthquakes. For the ori£ce of this n'uU in
Kettle is a mile or two wide, and ^ f «^ Ci2 -
very nigh as deep. In the bottom
of it is a new little hill riling out of
the hollow of the old, and fuming
perpetually with a thich fmoke,
as if it alfo would play cricks too in
its turn. Having gazed a while at .
this Chimney of heli ( for Tertullian
calls JEtna and Vcfitvius^ Fnmxriola n^ s
wftrni ) we came falter down than cbimtiep
wej
288
The Vo yage
we went up. He that is not con-
tent with this my (hort defcription
of the burning of this hill, let him
read Julius C<efar %jcnpituj 9 who
hath made a little book alone of it ,
called , De Vcfuviano incendio Nun-
tins.
Having recovered our horfes a-
gain we came back to Naples h and
the next morning , taking a new
guide,we went to lee the wonders of
Nature about Bat£ and Puzzuolo. .
Horfing then again betimes in
the morning we palled by the
Om jtw Caftle Vovo , and loon after to
- y to Margelino-, to fee the tomb of San-
Puzzueb nazarim the Poet, who lies buried
in the Church of Santa^ Maria del
Parto, which was once Sannazarius
Santa- hisownhoufe, which dying he left
zariw to be made a church of, under that
mj * mt >mc: fo that in his Teftament he
wrote it Virgwis parttt. as well as
in his book : and he might as well
have written upon the Frontifpice
of this church as upon the Frontif-
pice of his book, opera Sannazarii de
Virginis partu. His Tomb hejre is
adorned with marble figures and
with
Of Italy 289
with this 'ingenious Epitaph made
of him by Cardinal Bimbo.
~Da facto cineri jlores. HiciUeMarom
S'mceruf Mufii proximits, ut tumulo*
His name was jacobus Sannazaritts,
but he changed his name for tfeat of
Sincerus at the requelt of Tontanus*
who alfo changed his name too, and
caufed himlelftobe called Jovlanus^
as Jovius in Elogiis virorum doftorum
faith. Not far offthis place, nor far
from the entrance of the Grotte of
faufilipus, in the gardens of S. Swe m TV
vino, ftands Virgih tomb, covered
almoft over with Laurel, or Bay-^'^
trees : as if that Poets Laurel were " '
grown into a Shady bower to make
a whole tomb of Laurel for the
Prince of Poets.
From thence we returned again into
our way, and prefently came to the
entrance of the grotte of Paufilipus.
This moutain lying at the very back .j
of Naples and rendering the paflagc
to Napier extremely inconvenient
for carriages, it was thought fit to
cut a cart way under grouud, quite
through the mountain ; fome lay it
was
290 The Voyage
was LuchVus, that caufed it to be
thus boared : others fay , it was
Cocceius Nerva. Certain it is that
it is ancient, feeing Seneca makes
mention of it.
g£, Ending into the Grotte.of Pauftli-
Grotteof pm, we found it to be about forty
Fauftlipo. foot high, and broad enough for
two carts laden to meet with eafe,
They fay here, that it is a full mile
long*>but i thought it fcarce fo much.
We rid fome forty paces by the light
of the wide entrance i but that va»
milling, we were left in the dark
a good while, till we came to the
half way ,where. there hangs a burn-
ing Lamp before the pi&ure of our
Saviour in the B. Virgins arms.
Th-; light of this Lamp was very
grateful unto us =, and I am confi-
dent, a Puritan himfelf, were he
here,would be glad f o fee this Lamp
and picture, and love them better
for it ever after. AH the way of this
Grotta is very even and level, but
hugely dufty, as a roommuftbe,
that hath not been fwept thefe
fixteen hundred years. The people
£>f the Country meeting here in the
dark ,
O* It ait
fcfl
dark, know bow to avoid one an«
other, by r going from Naples on
the right hand, and returning on.
the left i that is, by keeping on the
mountain fide going, and returning
on the Sea fide : and this they ex-
prets by crying out often \ A Is
Montagna, or, a la Marina > 7» the
mountain fide^or to the Seafide^to give
notice whether they come, or go.
Our guide underft ood the word, and
he giving it unto me, and I to my
next man,it ran threugh our whole
Brigade^ which confifted of a dozen
horlemenin all. Almoft all the way
we rid in it , we (hut our eyes,
having little ufe of them, and our
mouths and notes too, for fear of
being choked with the duft : fo that
our exteriour fenfes being thus ffout
up,our interiour begato work more
freely>and to think of this ©dd place.
My thoughts , coming newly from
S znnazarius and Virgils tombes,
fell prefently upon Poetry (for all
this country is a Poetical country)
and I began to think whether this
were not Polypbemush'is den,becaufe
Hemer makes it to have been near
N n the
2^2 TheVotagi
the Seafide^ as this is > and capable
of holding great heardsof (beep as
this alfo is. Sometimes I thought
that it might have been here, that
Jupiter was hidden fro his devour-
ing Father Saturn-, who came into
Italy for certain -, as alfo becaufe So-
fhocles makes mention of Jupiter
.Paufilipus. But at laft I concluded
that this was the place where the
merry'Gods and Goddeffcs, after
their jovial fuppers, plaid at hide &
fiekj. without being hood-winckt.By
this time we began to fee the other
end of the Grot a far off, by a little
light which grew greater dc greater
till at laft we eamc to the iflue of
it.
Being got out of this Cymmerian
rode , we began to open our eyes
again to tec. if we could tind one an
others and our mouths tooto-dif-
courfe upon this exotick place. Thus
we rid difcourling upon this won-
C*T der > tillwe came t0 ^zGrottadel
Cane a new vvond&r.
Arriving there we prefently had
a dog ready (though for the moft
part the doggs here run whining
away
0? It alt 2 p5
away when they fee a troup of
Grangers arrive>ndlfaw the expe-
riment of that famous Oof**, which
being but three yards within the
fide of the hill, may be fcen without
entring into it. The experiment is
this. A man takes a dog alive, and
holding down his head with a
woodden fork to the ground, the
dog begins firft to cry, and then to
turn up the white of the eyes, as
if he would dye. Then letting him
hold up his head again , he reco»
vers. And having thus, twice,' or
thrice, (hewed us the experience of
this infectious place, he puts down
the dogs head again, and holds it
down folong, till the dog feems to
be dead indeed. Then taking him
by the ftiff'leg, and running with
him to the Lake Agnaw, fame forty
paces off, he throws him into the
(hallow water of this Lake, and
J prefcntly he begins to recover, and
to wade out. They would make us
believe, that as it is the nature of
tlvsGrotiz to kill, fo it is the nature
of this Lake to revive dead things
N n s again
■
I
E«fr
294 The Voyage
again. But if tie dog were dead
indeed, all the vater of Agnane,
though it were Aqua Vit<e, would
not recover himihe is onely aftoni-'
cd with the mfefiious vapour which
breatheth out of this Sulphurious
ground below. The peftilent na*
ture of this Gntte was (hewed us
plainly by alighted torch, which as
long as it was held high from the
ground, burnt clearly : but as it was
approached by little & little, near to
the ground, it grew dimmer and
dimmer, till at laft it burnt blew,
andbeing held clofe to the ground,
it went "quite out.
Then we were fhown hard by,
the ftovesof §,Gemaro, which by
Js&tn- a natura l fulphurious vapour ifluing
ftrongly from low caufes,put a man
prefently into a fweat, and are ex-
cellent 1 jremedies for the Neapolitan
drfeafe, called by fome -authors,
Camp anus Morbus: Nature, an indul-
gent mother, thinking her felf bound
to afford a remedy to the diforders
which fhe her felf hath enclined the
Neapolitans unto.
Then fetching about the hills by
,fs
nan,
O F ITALT 2p5
t narrow unfrequented way , wc
came to the Convent of the Capucius
Handing there where 8. J anuariut ^ H Cii _
was beheaded. In a little Chappel p tc ins.
on the right hand as you enter iiito
the Church, they mewed us the {tone
upon which he was beheaded •, the
blood is Hill upoji it.
From hence we defcended down •
into the Su!pbatarj y wheie the burn- ./ {w ^
ing Sulphur fmokes out perpetually
from under ground. This Snl'pbatars
is a kind of pit environed on all
fides with banks, and it is abou$
1 500 foot long and iosobroad.We
rid down into it onhorfeback,and
it founded hollow under our hories
teet, as if we had been riding over
a woodden bridge. There are divers
Jpiracula, or Vents round about it,
out of which the thick fmoke
preffeth furioully.as out of a fumacci
and makes Poets and Potters find
matter enough i thofefor their F^-
bles calling it, Forum Vulcani: Thefc
for their Medicinal pots,whichthey
make of this briroftony earth.
Near to Sulphatara ftands a
round pool of black thick water,
N n 3 which
3$6 The Votagi
which alwayes boilcthi and what
Soever you throw into it , it
comes out boiled indeed, but not
entire jfomething or other of it be-
ing always diminifhed,faith Leandro
Alhtttu One putting in four eggs
in a long ladle, pulled out but three
again : I wonder Poets feigned not
this Lake, to be that part of hell
allotted to puniih ufurers, feeing it
Cakes ufe for every thhag that's put
into it.
Defcending from Sdphatara to
fuzzuolo^ we wondered to fee the
very high way (moke under our
Iiorfesfeet, when yet we found not
them fo fiery under us : but I found
the fmoakc to come out of little
chinks of the dryed ground: which
<hcwd us that the whplecountry was
I8n fire under us. Before we came
to the town, we faw the remnants
of a fair Amphitheater , and Ciceros
Academy,
Immediatly after this we came to
tMMHOlo ^ MZZH ^° ■> ^° called, either from
the multitude of fprings about it >or
dfe a /utfwe, from the fmell which
f(iis brimltony country affords. The
town
Of It alt 397
town is but little, yet anciently a
Bifliops Seat. Taking boat here
prefently. we palled over the creek
ofthe£eato Bri<e, which is three
miles from hence i and. as we rowM
along, I admired the wild defign
QiCalig-uh who built a bridge from
FhzzuoIo toBaU : Tome of the Ar-
ches yet ftanding on both fides,fhow
us that his folly was real; and I
believe Suetonius meant this work,
whenhetaxeth the infanas Jkbfirttc-
time>) the mad buildings of this E/w-
perour. That which contributed
much to the bold attempt i was the
nature of the (and of this country,
which made into morter and let ^ m ^g
down into the water, grows hard & vitrmim
folid, even to petrify there at laft. j^,
Futtolanui pulvit^ fi aquam attiglt^
faxnm eft.
Reaching the other fide of the bay,
and leaving ©ur boat to attend us,
we rambled for an hour and a half
among the Antiquities of this ruined .
Paradife of BiU: for you know,
Nullus in erbt locus Balis praluxh a m
menis*
% N n 4. Firft
$ht Eli-
fctn
Xtttts*
298 T he Voyage
Mtrtatt ^ lt ^ we wcre * e( * t0 ^ e Mereai*
MSabato»diS< l b* t °> looking ftill like a ftreet
with ruines of houfes on both fides.
Thence we went to the EUfian
Fields, which a*e much beholding
to Poets for their fame : otherwife
they are but a very common plot of
ground without any gracemlnefs at
all, except onely that if BaU were a
town mil, a man might make a
fine bowling ground here. Put Poets
who have power- and Licence to
creel Ithacwn into a kingdome 5 have
tau-poeted it here, by erecting this
little ipot of ground into a Para-
difc.
Thence we came prefe»tly to the
Vifeina MirakHi , a vafi building
underground, born upby40"or5o
9ifc
^"a*
- great fquare pillars , log 1 50 paces,
4o wide, &: 30 high. We defcended
into it by many fteps, 8c its to well
walled with tione and lime on all
fide^that water canot link through,
And all this was onely to keepfreih
water in, either for the Roman Gal-
lies that ufed to lye hereabouts
in thefe harbours h or elfe for the
Romans,
Of Italy 299
Romans gufto iwho having their cu-
rious Villashexe abotits,had no mind
to drink of the fprings of this bi-
tuminous country. At the top of
this Pifcina Mirabili, I efpied fome
fpoutes of flone yet remaining, by
which they ufed to let the water-
from above into the vail referver.
Returning again,we were mown Promontt-
the Promontory of Mifenum a far^'J ew/ *
off-, and the Mare IfortmM hard wmMaW9 ,
by.. Cent 9 c««
Then we went into the CentoCa-™<rtlU;~
mtnUefo called from a hundred little
roomes that were built together
like chambers within one an other,
to keep ilaves in, who ferved the
Gallics.
Going again to ward sour boa t^
we were fhown the place where
Agr ip'm a (hould have been drowned -
by a falfe bottomed boat : but that
failing, her fon Nero caufed her
to be itabbed here. Indeed breafls
that had turned their blood infomilk
to give fuck to fuch a mo.nfter,could •
exped nothing elfe but tobeemp*
tyedof all their blood i but (lie was
ddigned to this ill ufage long be-
N n 5, ' fore--
3©q The Voyage
fore. For being foretold, when (he
was with child of Ntro, that Ave had
in her womb a fon who mould be
Emperor, but withall, who mould
kill her, (he cryed out : Occidai
tnodb impertt : Let him kill me fo be
$e but Emperor ; and (he had her
wi(h. Its laid alfo that this Par-
rieide (for, Nero nunquam fine pnblici
faricidii pr<efatione nominanduf eft?
faith Vahrius Maxlmus ) after his
tnother was killed, would needs
have her ript up, that hcmightfee
where he had lodged nine months
together: and I believe that nothing
haftened more the confpiracy of the
Romans againft him, than that they
could now no longer endure him,
who could not endure his own
'drrippi. motner * Hard by the Shoar (lands
pas tomb yet the Tomb .of that unfortunate
Frinceis.
Then taking boat again we
row'd by the ruines of Mar'w-, and
Cxfars ViHas , and divers other
fcraps of antiquity,and all along in
the water (in a clear day) you may
fee the foundations of Bji* , and
fpmc
Of It alt 30f-
fome Arches, arid the pavement of
the very nreets i all now in the Sea*
Omnia fen <etas i and Time, which
in all other places, is called Edax
rerum , may here be called Bibax
rerum ,having fipped up here a whole
tOWH.
Rowing on ftiljg^y the Shoar,
we came to the foot oiNeros pafoace
near to the ruincs of which^ ftands
mounted a ftrong Caftle , built a h
moderna, upon a high Hill. Leaving
- here our boat again, we were wish-
ed to put our hands into the fand
of the. very fea, which we found to
burn under the cold water. '
Then we went hard by to turns cittm
bathes, a great fquare place, were bstbts*
anciently were written overhead in
old letters, the names of the difeafes
which thefe waters cured: which >
letters fome Phyfitians caufed to be
defaced, pretending that th'ey 'were
fuperttitiouscharac^dfiiwhennidet'd
they where unwilling,.men fhould
be cured by any thing,but the ftrang-
cnara&ers in their reaper*
' fte'ar tftele forcCaid Bathes $ are ***'"' '
fij&SS $V$M where we were M^'f
%02 The Voyage
into the long Grotte, and prefcntly
put into a, fweat by a. ftirlng heat
which met us violently in that
. long entry. I followed my guide,and
finding the (team to be choaking,
I ftooped down low behinjd the
guide , to let him break the hot
air. before roe. As! thus Hooped,
I found out by experience , what
others find by hearfay ,' that the
nearer the ground a man ftoops
here, the cooler he finds himfelf.
Thus , Aniens like , fetching now
and then fuccour from my mother
earth, I found humility toheafafc
remedy. In the middle of this long
narrow Entry there's a place, for
thofe that fhnd in need of fweating,
toftandon, ftradling witfe*, andfo
fweat abundantly. They told me
that at the end of this Grotta,. there
are bathes of foveraign Vertue V but I
being well without them, had no
mind to be choaked in feekiiijz out
health.
Returning from hence we had a
Zac,*, huge walk of it to the Lacus Aver-
AvtrntviiinM-, made by the River Achlrgn* fje*.
< fmegaMdio: a fit name for the river
'of
O f , Italy 3-03
©f Hell.This Lake is famous for its
ftinking air, which was obferved to
kill-birds as they flew over here. On
the further fide of it,was the temple
.of Apia.
Leaving this' Lake on out tights** Grot-
hand, we made to wards' the : Grotte *« of si-.
of Sibylla Cum**,& called from ^ Cw '
the City Cww, which flood not far
off.This \Qng.Grotta was once a &ub~
terranean pafTage to the. City of Cu-
m£ t (as that of Faufdtyuf is yet to
Napks)ik the Sibyl les grotte is that
little dark Entry which ftrikes out
of the long Groita. This leads you
to the chamber of the faid Sikylle
and her baths, Its a fuae retiring
place for a ehaft maid, that fears as
well to fee, as to be (een : "tarn timet ^^^
videre , quarrt.videri > a.n& fuch the
Siby.ls were. v, who for their Virgi-
nities fake, nad the gift of Prophecy,
given therri, faith S^ Hierome. This
Sibyllx ' Cum£i prbphecyed very
particularly of our Saviours birth ,
and for that reafon Julixn the.A[wf~
tata burnt, ^sr prophecyes, faith
4mmimus M^rcrflwitj^ a Heathen
Hittorian cf ihcfe tim ,-s» '
Momi
Xhqvo,
5©4 The Voyage
As we returned again from
hence to our boat, we gazed upon a
great mountain called Monte -Nhovs
bccaufeit was eaftup in one night
(on Michelmafs night anno i 536 )
by an earthqauke, which the Pnilo-
fophers call Brafmnicbus r that is,
when the earth is thrown up 3 and
mountains are formed. Some hold
this mountain to be three miles high
but I think it enough to give it a
full mile. It coverd ( at its riling
up ) a great part of the old L*tus
LucrittMf which was quite fucked
/. up by this great fop.
f Then taking our boat again we
icturned to Vuzzuolo, and at might
to Naples > where we ftaid but one
day more, as well to reft our horfes,
as to fee the filk (hop5, where- they
make curious illk waftcoats, (lock-
ings, fcarfs &c.
thihi/firy ^ c mat defires t0 know the hi"/j>
o/N^/aOry of Naples, let him read the book
called, ll Compendia dell Hijioriadi
Napoli, di Colknncclo.
Having thus feen Niplef,we re-
turned again towards Rome the
fame way , we came, without any
fikngejr •.
Of Italy. 905
danger of Banditi.but not without
fome trouble caufed us by the offi-
cers of the Gabdla at Fundi>who mec
us a quarter of a mile out of the tokfk'J
town, and ftopt us upon the rode Gal'llers
to fearch us, aud lee whether we of fundi*
had any thing lyab le to the Gabdla •-,
ox more money of the country than
the Law allows men to carry out.
For my part I had taken care of all
this a forehand, and had nothing
lyable to the greatelt rigour. But
fome of our company that did not
believe the rigour to be Co great,
found it.For to fome they pulled off
their boots, fearched their pockets, ,
breeches, doublets? nay even their
(addles, horfes tails, and the very
horfes kct. Fro one gentleman they
took four piftols of gold, becauic
he carried (b much more than was
allowed : though with much ado
we got the gentleman his money
again i I have known divers that
have not efcaped fo well, having
been ttript in the open fields even to
their flnirts &c. their watches taken
from thg though they had brought
them.,
Mbano,
306 The Votage
them with them to Naples , and not
bought them there. This is to
learn my traveller to be inquifitive
in all his journeys I of the Laws
of the Country where he travelleth,
eipecially fuch obvious ones as
concern publick paffages, bridges,
ferries, bearing of arms, and the
likei the knowledge of which cuft-
oms will make him avoid many
inconveniences , which I have
known others fall into.
In an other voyage to Napier, in
our return-to Rome sve made little
excurfions,to take in fome places a-
bout Rome, which we had not fecn
before, as A'bmo, Caftel Gmiulfa^
Frefcati and livjli, which lay| almoit
in our way.
RiGng therefore betimes at
Vdctri we crofTed over the hills,
and came to Albano, ( anciently cal-
led Longo Alba ) and now one of the
feven Biuhops Seats about Rome^
which are given to the elde/t Bifhop
Cardinals, that they may be at
hand alwayes, and ready to afiilt
thcPopeinhis affairs oi importance.
The.
OfItalt 507
The others are Porto-, Ofiia^Frefiatl,
Tiv9lhPrenefte>Velctri. hi Albany I
faw nothing of moment but an old
Church, and fomeold houfes:yet
feeing it ftands in Co goad an air, I
wonder the great men of Rome have
n«t built houfes here,where the wine
is fo exquifitly good. Indeed this
wine makes this town be' much-
taken notice of by all Grangers, as
beiag the beft wine that's c.onftantly
drunk in Rome. ffJ .
Hard by At bam ftands Caftil ^inlfa
Gandulfo, the Popes country houfe
infummer.lt ftands verypleafantly
having on one fide of it a Lake and
■ woods, and on the other the €ampa*
nla of Rome and the City it felf in
view, I ftcpt into this Caftle, but
found nothing but bare walls, it
being unfurnifhed.
From hence we went to Frefeati
called anciently e XufcuJum- This is
abfolutely one of the fweeteft places
in Europe. The town is but little }
but round about it, efpecially on
the hill fide, there are fo many cu-
rious ViUm > PallaceSi Gardens,
Fountains? Shady walkj? and Jlmmcr
delights.
HrefaitL
Aldo-
travdiuit
3©8 The Voyage
delight sffozt I wonder not if Princes,
Cardinals, and other great perfons
retire hither in fummer- In a word,
here Cato was bom, here Lucullm
delighted himfcl 1 ", and Cicero Itudied
and wrote his Tttijmtans quettions.
The firft place we went to fee here,
was the Villa Aldobrandina. This
Villa isalfo called, the Belvedere of
M«lv7d7u Fre/c«»,bccaufe it ftands fo pleafant-
ly ■> having the Campania of Rome,
and Rome it felf in light on one fidei
and on the other , the hill fide all
covered with Laurel trees, curious
fountains, cafeatas, and other de*
lightfome water works, which afford'
here a cool feafon even in the
months oi July and Juguft. The
variety of thefe waterworks are fo
many and fo curious, that I cannot
but defcribe them*
FiriVthcn, the TZtcCaftat* pre-
ftnts it felt, .md its made thus. At
the.turningof a vaftcock^i he water
( which is brought through a great
hill, from a fource five rsiles off J
fpouts out of the top of t*>o high
winding pillars of ftone, which ftand
mounted upon the head of a high
pahr
2&f €(tf-
tata*
O f iT/LY gOf
pair ©f open flairs, and then falling
down upon the fame pillars again,
it follows the winding bent of them
cut into Channels and little gutters,
I and fo warbles about thefe pillars
vifibly till it arrive at the foot of
i them. There finding iflue, it falls
1 upon the forefaid (fairs and covers
them all with a thin gliding dream ,
- which makes an open itaircafe of
water. Befides, this water fets a
number of little fountains on work,
which itand on either fide of thefe
flairs, and defcends by degrees with
them: fo that in "a moment the
whole hill fide is fpouting out wa*
I ter,and filling the air with afweet
J murmur,
2. Then the Gardiner turning
I an othet cock above, gives at once,
fuch ftore of wind and water to the
' great Girandnla below I he ftairS in ^ fi r
I thegrotteof Atlas, that it imiiateth ra „j [ at
\ perfectly Thunder, Hail, Rain and
Mift.
3. By this time, the great ftatue
- of the Centaure with a hunters horn TA<?Cr«,
I at his mouth, windeth it duly, and
in perfect mcafure.
4, Van;
P*».
310 The Voyage
4. Pan al Co playes on his mouth-
organ tuneably.
5. whilcft the Lyon and the Leo-
Tfoljoapwd fighting together fpit anger-
atid the ]y m one anothcrs faces, though all
Leopard. p Z £ s j n co y blood, bjcaufe in cold
water.
6. Thefe waters alfo afford innu-
merable &inavoidable wetting pla-
ces j as thefalfe fteps in the ftairs:
the wetting place behind Pan : the
other wetting place behind the
Centaurejand the little underground
fpoutson all fides.
The Hal 7* Then the Hall of Apollo is
•fJfollQ. opened , where he fitting upon
Mount Farnaffus., and the nine
Mufes under him in a circle, with
feveral wind Instruments in their
hands, ftrike up altogether melo-
diouflyi whileft an untouched organ
underneath the hill, playes a fofc
ground to the Mufes Inftruments.
8. Daring this melody, a little
round hole in the fnidft of the room
bloweth out frona below fuch a cool
and itiff wind,' that bears up a
little h©How ball of copper, a yard
from
Of Italy 511
from the ground. Over the door is
is this diftich.
Hue ego migrjvi Mufis comliaius A-
poh.
Hie Delphi, Ihe Helicon, hie mihi '
Velos erit.
Then being led to fee this hydrau- the water
lick organ,and to view what fingers Organ,
art had lent unto water i I found
the Organ to be made thus. Firft,
the Pipes are like other organ pipes
of lead, and fet in a dole frame
as the manner is, with flops, and
touches to them.Clofe to thefe flops
the force of water turns a wheel ,
made like a great Drum, and as
long as the organ. This wheel hath
in it, here and there, divers pieces
of brafs, about the thicknels of a
half Crown piece, and juftas broad
as the flops of the organ. Thefe
brafs pieces flicking out juft fo far ,
as to reach the flops in their tur-
ning about , and to prefs them
down as the organiils fingers do,
and being placed here, and there,
in that mufical diflance, as to flrike
their note in tune as they turn
about
312 TheVoyag*
about leifurely, they all together
compofe a perfed: and fweet har-
mony '■> the wind pipe of this room
( mentioned even now ) ferveth
fufficiently for bellows to his organ,
as well as to the wind inftruments
of the Mufei and all is caufed by
force of water. But as we were ta-
ken with thefe waterworks, which
Aterrible m ake this organ play in tune, we
turning were fuddenly overtaken with an
flw. other water work, which playing
terribly upon us put us quite out of
tune : fo feldom doth wind come
without water.
Having feen this garden and Pal-
viUaLu- ' acei we went to the Villa of Prince
dwtfi*. Ludovifio which is hard by. The
houfeis but little, but the garden is
both large and adorned with ftore
of waterworks: fothat if the gar-
dener befriend you not, you cannot
cfcape without being foundly wet.
One thing I observed in this
Pallace here, that the curtains of
the beds are wrought with little
holes of needle work, that the air
may enter by them , but not the
gnats.
From
Of Ita;t ^ij
From hence we went to the Villa
of Prince Burghefe called Monte- Man»e-
dragone, from the Dragon in his^f*"^
arms. It ftands a mile and a half
from the Belvedere, and the way to
it is through curious walks of
Laurel trees. The houfeis flately,
and capable of lodging a King with
his whole Court. The chambers are
neat and fit for bjthfeafons, winter
and Summer. I faw divers good
■pictures in them. The latf Supper
is of Alberto T>ureos hand, and huge-
1 y efteemed. The ftory of Polyphe-
mus is of the hand or Lznfranco.
But that which pleafed me belt,
was the hall below, full ofthetrue
pi&ures of famous men, both for
learning and arms. Its an excellent
fchool where a man may learn
much true skill in Phyfiognomy, St
fee how worthies looked. This
hall lets you out into the little neat
garden where you rind waterworks,
wetting fports, and a pretty Gi-
randola.
Having thus feen Frefcaii, we
went to tivoli fortiej fifteen miles -*/W/.-
off.
The CaJ-
tattt.
514 The Voyage
off. This is an ancient town, (land-
ing upon a hill fome fifteen miles
diftant from Rome, and in fight of
QUfyhur'^' ^ was anciently called 'IjW,
and held by the Romans for a de-
licious place. We faw here the old
temple and thehoufeof SibyllaTy-
burtina. Then we faw the Cafcata-,
much admired here by thofe that
never were in Smjferland^ or at
Term. This here is made by the
River Anio, which falls fuddenly
down a ftony rock, and foamts, for
anger to fee its bed grown too fhort
for it. Indeed it makes fuch a mur-
{ muring complaint againft nature to
- the Hones below, that it almonV
' deafs, like the Catadonfs of Nilm^
all its neighbors.
Thence we went to the Villa of
Cardinal VEfte- Its fiandshigh and
overlooks the Camvanu of Rome.
But the gardens of this Villa is that 3
which is here molt looked after.
They lye upon the fide of a hill ,
and are placed in four rows
of gardens, with four degrees in
the defcent, all fumilhed with
Cajcatas , Grottas 5 and other
admirable ,
VeSa
Of It alt 3j£
admirable waterworks, the water is
let in hither from the river Anis*
which runs behind this hill. For
they have tapt the very hill, and
bored the rock quite through to th«
river > fo that the gardener here by
turning a great cock can let in as
much water as fills the fountains t
the Cafcatafi the Grottas, the Gi-
r-andola, and the other rare water-
works.Hence is made the great foun*
tain of Ltda* the flairs of water, the
long walk of 2 hudred paces,fetali
along with little ftone fountains and
bafins 5 purling in your ears,8c call-
ing out little tets of water as yon
walk along them. And here you (hall
fee as rare things for fight & delight
as the world can afford in this kind.
Here a perfect reprefentation of old
Home in a perfpecT:ive:where you fee
theCapitol) the Tmtheon., the chief
triumphal archu, the Circos^ Theaters*
ObtUfquet^Aaufokd!, & even Tybw it
fell: here curious groves of trees
making a green fpring in the midft
of winter : here cool Grottas and
fountains, 'making a cold winter i*
the midft of Sumer: Here falfe birds
Q • chirp*.
gi6 TheVoyage
chirping upon true trees, every one
according to his true nature j and all
of them chattering at once at the
fight of a falfe owl appearing and
howling in a free.Here curious Grot-
- 4j-,efpecially the Grottc of nature ,
adorned with Nymphs, {hells, fta-
tues, &c unavoydable wetting places,
& organs playing without any man
touching them: there a fearful Gi-
randola of the Dragons, thundering
as if they would fet heaven on fire
with cold water,8c pelt Jupiter from
thence with hail ftones.But I wrong
thefe things which are rather to be
feen than defcribed : (k my traveller
will wrong himfelf much, if he ftay
not here three or fourdaies,to view
ntunitamentt thefe wonders of art,
Having feen thefe famous places,we
returned to Rome again > where we
faw its chief rarities over, and over
again*, for Romam juvat ufq, videreSc
all men that have feen Rome only
once defire to fee it again:Hence the
Romans taking lieve of a ftranger
departing from Rome, after his firlt
voyage, fay jetting to him, a Ri-
vedir
Of Italy ^ X y
vedercih that is, Farewel till T fee
you again j knowing that every
man who hath feen Rome but once,
will defire to return again; -For my
part,I confefs I was of this feritiment
in my firft journeys but now hating
fecn it five feveral times, I took a
long lieve of it, and began to think
of returning homeward by the way
of Loreto, and Venice. And that we
nry/it be fure to be at Venice at the
great folemnity of the Afcmfion, we
kfc Rome the firft week after Eafter.
We fet out of Rome by the Porta del
Populo, all along the via Flaminia,
which reached as far alcnoft on this
fide of Rome, as the Via Aftis did on via Jk :
the other ? that is from Rome to Ri- m'mfa,
mbii.lts called Flaminia becaufe the
Conful Fiamin'w made it by his foul-
diers in time of peace , left they
fhould grow idle , and have their
strength to feek when the war
fliould break out. The reft of the
way from Rimini to Bologna , was
paved by Mmilius Lepidlts the Col-
Icgue of Flaminius-t and from him
called Via JEmiti-i.
O © is This
fsnte
tjber
318 The Voyagi
This Via Flaminia led us fir ft to
Tonte Molo ( Tons Milvius ) a good
mile diftant from the gates of Rome^
where Conftantin the great overcae
Maxentiuf the tyrant, and drove
him and his men into the river.
Here it was I faw Tyber firft i and I
wondered to find it fuch a (mall ri-
ver , which Poets with their hyper-
bolical ink had made fwcll into a, ri-
ver of the nrft rate. £*0
Following on the way, we palfed
Kami. \ by Cafiel Nuavo, -Chita Cajletlana
Vtricoli-> and fo to Narni: fo called
from the river Nar* It was anciently
called NequinttM ( wicked town )
becaufe of the inhabitants, who be-
ing preffed with hunger in a Siege
xefolved to kill one another rather
than fall alive into the hands of their
enemies. They began with their
children, fifters, mothers, wives,and
at laftfell upon oneanothen leaving
the enemies nothing to triumph
over but bare walls and allies. This
town is an ancient Bilhops feat, and
S.Juvenalii ( whofe body lyethin a
neat low chappel in the homo ) was
the
Of It alt ^9
^fie firft Bifhop of it. A little out of
the town are feen high arches be-
longing anciently to an Aquedudr.
From hence we went to Terni a j. •
Bifliops Seat too. It was called an-
ciently /tf/e)\*7»/7tf,bec3ufe of a world
of little brooks here. This town
ftands in a moft pleafant foyl, and
is famous for being the birth place
of Cornelius Tacitus the great Hifto-
rian. Arriving here betimes we
went four miles ofTto fee the famous
Cafcata, in the mountains , which
far excells that of Tivoli.
From terni we went to Spoleto. spoltte,
This is a neat town, which giveth
denomination to the Dutchy of £po-
Uto. Anciently the country here-
about was called Vmbria, but in
aftcrt'imes it was called, the Dutchy
of Spoleto, upon this occafion. The
Emperor JujHn having called Narfes
( the great General) out of Italy, he
Tent Longinus with the power and
title of Exarch, in his place. This
Longinus fettled himfelf in Ravenna: *i
and governed the reft of Italy by his
Captains & Officers called Duces, or
Oo 3 Dukes
320 The Voyage
Dukes. Hence Rome loft her Confute*
(Narfes and Bafilius being the two
Haft Confuls) and was governed by a
Dwke too, as well as Spoleto. This
- town hath been famous anciently,
for holding out againft. Hannibal?
even fhen when he had newly over-
come the Romans at the Lake Tbra-
fitneno near Perugia '■> in which Siege
«f Spoleto, happened that, famous
prodigy ( which I may call in a
manner, a Metaphyfical tranfmuta-
thn , rather than a metamorphofis )
mentioned by Leandro Alberti,~w\\o
- quotes Livy for it j of a man in Spoleto
changed into a woma in the time of
tihc Siege. Surely it was fame notable
toward whom. nature diia vowing,
degraded him of his breeches. Hence
I remember that Plato faith, ab-
jeciori.armorum maxims conveniret ,
Vlato It. ut in - W#/zVrem ex Viro tranjlatufy fie
%2-deLe.pttniatur : a mantbat ca(lf an>ay bis
gib. arms in a battle, cugbt to he pu-
ni/hedy by being changed from a man
into a. woman. Tl>is tpwn of Spoleto
~?gjjj H gives the name- to the pleafant Val-
ley of Spoleto, which lies near ir. Its
above
rw.
Qf Italy ^ 321
above thirty miles in compafs, fur-
rounded on all fides with hills, and
thofe hills are clad with many fine
towns : people willingly dwelling
here where theairand theearth,our
chiefeft nurfes, are fo purely good .
From Sfoleto we went to Foligm
(Fulignum in Latin) famous for Con-
feBioners. Not far from hence ftands
Aflrfwm. famous for S. Fr*»car, foun- Jjjtf.wn.
der of the Yrancifcan ordettthe con-
vent here is irately ,and much viiited
by devout Pilgrims : And Mantefaleo Moaf
famous for the miraculous heart oV a
B. Clara.
From F0%«i,climbing up the Apn* T Q Umim t
mw,we came to Tolentino famous fot
the Tomb and Relicks of S. Nicola*
Jolentinas. Of this tfown was Pfei/e/-
pbut a learned & noble Knight, who
deflrous of potfeffing the Greeek
tongue in perfections was not only
content to go 'into Greece in perfo,&
there vifit the ruines of Athens^ and
the tombs of the ancient Philofo-
phersibut brought thece with him a
grecian Lady, whom he had marry- -
ed at Conjhmuepk, by whofe dayly
conver-
£32 T Hi Voyage
converfatio he might learn the pure
accent of the Gretk^tengtte. And this
he did in fuch perfection,that he tri-
umphed over the Grecians them-
felves in their own Mguage.Witnefs
thatdifpute w ch he had with Tirnz-
thtm a Grecian-, about the force and
accent of a Grte}^ word, where both
of them growing hot, and betting
at laft their beards, which they both
wore then long, Wilelphus won the
others beard \ and caufed it to be
fhaved oflfimmediately, 8c kept it in
his family as a Tropbeyy. though the
poor Grecian^ would have redeemed
it with a confiderable Sum of mo-
ney. Indeed they deferved both to
loofe their beards, that could be fo
hot about fuch a hairs matter, as the
accent of a word. The ftatue of thi*
notable (haver, victorious Pbilelpbtts,
I faw here in the town houfe,
From Solent ino we went to Mace-
rata* neat town of la Marca ) and
Uttanatt pooling through Kecanata-, another
handfome town of the fame coun-
Lfirtto* tjy^ W e came betimc to Loreto.
Rcfolving but to ftay here one day ,
WG
Maura
ft*.
O f Italy 323
we put out all our time to ufc prefet-
ly 3 and fpent thataftemoon 5 &the
next day, in viewing exactly this fa -
cred place which is To much frequet-
cd by the devout Pilgrims of all
Chrifiendom. This place at firft was
nothing but a plain high waybill. the
Chamber of our bleifed Lady (in
which the Angel annouced unto her
rhemyfteryof theincamatio of our
Saviour in her womb) wastrarifla-
ted thither miraculoufly by thehads
of Angels, about the year 1294?
when Infidels & Turks overfpread-
ing the holy land would otherwifc
have piofantd that holy place,
which even from the Apoftles time
had been turned into a Chappel.For
my part, though this be no Article
of faith, yet when I remember what
was {aid in this chamber by the An-
gel to our Lady,to wit, nonejl im^JJi-:
bi'e apud Vetfm omm Vtrhum, nothing
is impoflible to God, I eaiily believe
that he who placed this great world
it felf in a place where there was no?
thing before,can eaiily place a houfe
there where there was no houfe be-?
Co f) fore*
3?4' ^ HE Voyage
forei and that he who makes an
Angel wheel the -primum mobile, and.
the vaft machins of the heavenly
orbs,quite round in four and twenty
hours,may ealily make Angels tranf-
late this little chamber of our Lady
from one part of the world to ano-
ther. Now that it was fo tranflated
de fatto, both ancient records, folid
See fur- depofitions.conitant tradition,& the
fefinmhhbdid of all, almoft 5 of the Catholick
h f°h> f ^" nces of £«ro|peCwho have fent rich
- »flimo. P re ^ eI)ts hither ;do teftifie. Befides, I
'can fay this,that the walls are of fuch
a ttone as is not ufed in any houfe in
all the Country about ; a great pre-
emption, that this wall is exonck.
Again, the holy houfe here having
no foundation in the ground (as we
fee plainly ) it is not credible that it
was built here by men^ who would
have given fome little foundation
at leaft to walls of that thicknefs,
and to a houfe of that bignefs, efpe-
cially ftanding alone in the fields,
as it did atfirft v and expofedtoall
weather. Add further, that the ve-
ry old painting which is feen upon
part of the wall on the infide,(hew-
eth
cththe high antiquity of this houfe.
In fine, the whole country wduld
have given the lye to this tradition
at tirft, or as foon as men had begun
to cry it up for a houfe brought thi-
ther miraculoufiy.
Now, as for the holy houfe it felf, x^ ^
it ftands in themidft of a great houfe if
church, which hath been built over l>9M9.
it in latter times,for the better cove-
niency of the peoples devotion, and
the church fervice:& round about it
more immediately there hath been
built a decoration of white marble,
which ftands half a foot diftant from
the holy houfe that men may fee
it was not intended fo much for a
prop ,as for a decoration to it, as alio
to keep it from the hands of devout
pilgrims who otherwife would have
made no fcruple to have been nib-
ling at tht ftones of the walls here.&i
To in time have much defaced the
holy houfe, with their pious theft?,
This decoration is fet round with 2
rows of ftatues of white marble cut
by the rareft workmen of . It aly, in
thofe tim^, to wit, 'S-fitfovinh B*n-
dineffi, SanGallo, Moxte Lip* and
others, .
The Voyage
Others* The lower row of thefe fta-
Cues exprefieth the figures of tire an-
cient Prophets : and the other row
above exprefTeth the ftatues of the
Sybils, who prophecyed among the
Gentiles,& heathens of our Saviours
birth of a Virgin vand his paffiom as
you may read at large in Lattannusi
As for the matter and form of
this honfe-> I* found it to be of a
hard red (lone, like brick, but
fer harder and bigger than our
brick : the form fomewhat fquare
about the bignefs of a reafonable
lodging chamber. Theres but one
window in it \. and anciently there
was but one door : but now there
{are three ;, one at either fide
and one behind, the altar, for the
Chaplains that have care of the
lights and lamps which are.ai-
waies burning here, Towards the
upper end of the houfe there is an
Altar, where the Holy facrificc of
mafs is offered from four in the
morning until one in. the after-
noon. This Altar is of filver 3 and was
©yen by Cofmujll, GreatDuke of
f S'rALY 337
Florence. Before it hangs a Lamp of
gold as great as two men could car-
ry. It was the gift and Vowe of the
Senate of Venice. in a plague time.
On either fide of the walls, are fa-
ttened two great Candleiticks of
pure gold} made like Cornucopias and
neatly wrought ;they were the gift
of the great Qutchefs of Florence
Magdalen a d* Aufiria 9 as her armes
upon them told me. OnthcGof-
pellideof the Altar, there's an old
cupbord within the wail, in which
are yet kept fome little earthen
difhes, which were brought hither
with the houfe, and ..therefore tradi-
tion holds them to have been our
Saviours plate, Scour Ladyes velTcls.
now this cupbord is adorned with a
door of filver given (if I remember
well ) by. a Duke. of Parma. In' the
end of the Holy houfe, there is a
window, where it is imagined the
Angel entered when he came, Em-
bailador to the Virgin Mary c5cern-
ing the great buiinefs of the incarna-
tion of his Lord & matter. This win-
dow is now cheeked and enriched
with
338 The Voyage
with filver. Round about above hag
filver Lampes ■■> and on the fides of
the walls there remains yet fome
very old painting wherewith this
Chamber was painted when it was
firlt confecrated into a Chappel in
the primitive times. In the very
bottom of this chamber, they (hew-
ed me, by a lighted candle, how
that it hath no foundation in the
ground i but ftands here juft as if
it had been let down from the
ayre , and fet upon the plain
ground.
Clofe behind the Altar runns
quite crofs the Chappel, a great
iron grate, through which you
fee the Statue of Cedar of our
blefledLady, with her fon in her
armes. Its laid to have been made
by S. Lu\e , and was brought
hither together with the Chappel,
or Holy houfe. It ftands up high in
the Very farther end of the Chappel.
Itsaboutfour foot high, and ador-
ned with a particular kind of Vail
hung before it, looking fomething
like a womans garment. TJiey call
thefe
Qe Italy. ^
ihefe Vailes here, VejU y and they
are of divers colours and fluffs i
but all rich and glittering j witfiefs
that which I faw . in the T'reajury,
which was given by the Infanta ffa-
betis of Flanders , which is valued
at forty thoufand crownes. Its fet
thick with fix rowes of diamonds
down before, to the number of
three thoufand -, an4 its all wrought
over with a kind : of embroidery
of little pearl fet, thick every
where within the flowers with great •
round pearl , to the number ,
of twenty thoufand pearles in all,.
Upon the heads of our Saviour and
our Lady in that Statue , are fet two
rich crownes Cclpfe royal crownes)
ofcIiamondSj given by the Queen of
France Anne d\ Auftricbe. Before
the breaft of this f-ttatue hangs a
Royal Tofone , or Fliece , of rich
Jewels, given by a Prince oi'fran-
fylvsnia : a Collar of Rubies, pearls,
&diamonds,and a rich crofs hang-
ing at it, all given by Cardinal
Sfondratl. Round about the Niche ^
in which this" Statue ftands, there
goes
2*0 The Voyage
goes a clofe row of pretious (tones
of feveral forts and Luftres , but
all great, both in bulk, in Value,
and in number \ berng feventy
one in all, and all together com-
pofing a rich Iris of feveral co-
lours. Between this Statue of our
Lady and the Iron Grate, hang a
row of Lampes , ( about twelve in
all J ot pure gold, and all as big as
a mans head i one whereof exeeeds
the reft in carious workman(hip :•,
and it was the gift of Sigifmond
King of Tolonia. All the reft of the
Chappel,where thofe Lampes hang,
isloaden with the rich Vowesand
Pxefents of great Princes. Thefe I
yet remember : to wit, The image
in filverofthe eldeft Son oi Fer-
dinand the IIIEmperor with a chain
of diamonds about it. An Angel of
filver holding out, and as it were,
prefenting to our. Lady a child of
gold in (wathing bands upona fil-
ver cufhion. It was the gitt of
theforefaid Queen of France being
brought to bed of the Dolphin^
now Lewis the XlIII.The picture of
this
Of1 t aly 541
this Prince of Conde in filvcr knee-
ling, a vowe of his mother when
he went firft to war. The Bujh
of S. Barbara in filvcr, fct with
jewels* the gift of an Archduke
oiAtftria. An other Bujio of S. Gi-
rime, fet with Jewels alio i a gift
of a Queen of Bohemia. The Statue
of S. hadiflm in filver > the gift
of Ladijljus the IV. King oiPolonia.
A fine kneeling ftool,or peW,of filver
given by Cardinal Colonna-, with a
world of other filver prefents
wherewith this place is filled. In fine
I faw there the very chimney which
was anciently in this chamber v its
under the ftatue ©four Lady and
now adorned with filver.
Having feen the Holy Houfe, or™ 2 '"/**
Chappel, we were led the next™
morning into the 'treafury, where
many other rich prefents are kept.
This I'reafnry is a large room 40
paces long & about 15 wide, like a
loBg Chappel vaulted and painted
over head. On the left hand of
this ro©m, ftand great cupbords,
which. opening above, have, lktle
i nets,
342 The Voyage
nets of fhong wyar before them ,
which let in eyes to behold, but
keep of hands from touching the
ineftimable Treafare contained with-
in them, Some of thefe prefents
wers given by Popes, fome by
Kings, Queens, Princes, Cardinals,
Generals, Ladyes, and noblemen o£
feveral Nations. In one cupbord
they fhew'd us a whole fervice for
the Altar, that is, Crucifix, Can-
dlefticks 5 Cruets, Bafin & Eure, and
thefoot of the Chalice, allofAm«
ber. In an other, fuch a whole fer»
vice , of Agate. An other fuch
fervice all of lapis Luzuli , given by
Count Olivam. An other all of coral
given by the Archduke Leopold. Iu
another, fuch a fervice in chryftal.
In an other fuch a fervice of filver,
with flower pots neatly wrought,
given by Don Ibadzo Barberino pre-
fettof Rome. In an other, a (lately
Crucifix of Ebuiy adorned w th many
curious pictures in miniature, given
by Pope Clement the VII I. In an!
other,the Spread Eagle of diamonds,!
the gift of Mary Queen of Hungary.]
Two!
Of Italy 345
[Two crowns of gold enriched with
Jpearhthe gift of a Queen of Polognia*
[A crown of gold Cet with great Ru-
jbies of extraordinary fizej the gift
of a Dutchefs of Nevers.ln an other,
the Crown and Scepter of gold en-
jamelled, given by Cbrifiina Queen
of Swede at her firft coming 'into
\Italy, In an other the enamel-
led Pigeon with a rich jewel in its
breait, the gift of the Prince Lu-
! dovifto. The heart enriched with dia-
monds, with a great Emeraud'm the
middle of it,of an exceflive bignefs,
the gift of Henry III. of France
at his return out of fdognia. hi an
other, the rich, enamelled three cor-
ner'd jewel, wftKthe picture of the
BlefTed Virgin in the middle of it i
the prefent of two Bohemian Counts
& a Gentleman, who being thrown
out of a window in Prague
by the Cahiniftsy and recommend-
ing them (elves to Gods prote*
clion and our Ladies interceffion ,
fell down all three gently without
the leaft hurt. Their names were
Count Mat 'tinitz. Count Slavata-, and
544 The Voyage
a Gentleman that was Secretary to
Cwnt Slavata, who being thrown
out the Lift, and falling upon the
Count his m after, cryed him mer-
cy for hisrudenefs in falling upon
him s a great argumeat that they
were little hurt, when they could
comp'enient with one an other.
There are now three pillars before
thathoufein Prague,, out of which
thefe three men were thrown. In
an other cupbord I. faw fevenl
great chaines of gold,given by great
men } andfome of thefe by gieat
Generals. In an other , a great
Heart of gold i as, big as both
a mans hands , enamelled with
blew, and fet on the outfideofit
with thefe words in pretty big Dia-
monds, JESUS, MARIA
and within it are the pi&ures of
the bleffed Virgin on one fide i and
of the Queen of England Henrietta
Maria on the other » the Heart
opening it felf into two leaves. In
another, a neat little heart alfoof
gold enamelled, and Cct with jew-
els j the prefent of Madam Cbri-
ji'ma
Of Italt g45
ftina Dutchefsof Savoy , and fitter
to the Forefaid Queen of England,
with her own and her fons picture
in it. In an other the picture of
our bleiTed Lady with her Ton J E-
S U S in her armts, cut in a great
pearl and fet in gold. In another
cupbord, I faw a picture of our &.
Lady wrought curioufly in Indian
Feathers or feveral colours, and cut
ihort as plufh, which picture chang-
eth colours as often as you change
its (ituation, or your own pof-
ture. In an other, a great c#(?e-
dia of chryftal given by Cknftina of
Tufcany. In an other, acujtodia of
Lapis Lazuli.hi an other a Diamond
valued at twelve thoufand crowues,
the gift of the Prince «f Oria in
Genua. An other of almoft equal
price given by a German Prince. In
an other a curious book of gold
covered with Diamonds with the
leaves of gold, but rarely painted in
miniature, the gift or a Duke of
Bavaria. In an other, the Samari-
tans Well of gold , with pictures
of our Saviour, and the Samaritan
woman
^y The Voyage
woman in gold alfo > the prefent
of Cardinal Brancaccio. In divers
other cupbordsl faw a world of
Jewels of all forts,which confound-
ed my memory as well as dazled
my eyes. In other great cupbords,
they (hewed me excellent Church
ornaments of moft rich fluffs em-
broidered with filver and gold ,
but one there was ( to wit a whole
compleat fuit for the Altar,
Prielt, Deacon, and Subdeacon)fo
thick covered with an embroidery of
pearl, and thofe no little ones,
that I could not perceive the
ground of the ftufT for pearl
all thefe were the prefent of Cathe-
rine ZomoUky wife of the Cbancelor of
Tolonh&nd they are valued at a hun-
dred and thirty thoufand crownes.
I know not whether this fuit of
Church ornaments, or that describ-
ed above in the Popes Sacritiy, be
the richer.
On the other fide of this room,
are great windowes, betwixt every
one of which, are fet upon long
tables, diversjgreat townes fo pre-
cifely
Of Italy 34,6
cifely exprefTed in filver , with
their walls,ramparts, Churches;(tee-
ples, houfes, ftreets, windmills, &c.
.that whofoever had once feen thefc
[townes , would eafity know them
(again in their pictures here: they
■were all vowes and gifts, and all
ingenious German work, as well as
■ German townee
This is all I can remember,though
■not half I faw in this Treafury :
and having thanked the civil Pne(t
that (hewed us this fine place, we
went out again into the great
-Church j where 1 obferved upon
I the great pillars that make the lies
of this Church, the hi (lory of the
Holy Houfe engraven in (tone, or
I written in parchment in a fair text-
- hand, in twelve or thirteen feveral
languages, for the ufe of the Pil-
grims who flock hither from all
, countries.
Going out of, the Church I faw
before the Church door the (fotue in
brafs of Sixtus ghtintui'.znd a (lately
Fountain.
From hence we went to (eethc
Cella*
34$ The Voyage
Cellar of the Holy Houfe which fur-
niftieth with wine, not onely the
Governors houfe, the Canons 8c the
Church meiijthe Colledgeof the Pe-
mtentiaries-, the Convent of the Ca-
pucins-, the Seminarifts-, the Hofpital
and all thofe that belong to the
Church any way : but alto mrni flieth
all Pilgrims,yea even allPrinces,car-
dinals,Bifhops,embaiTadors,6cgreat-
men of known quality with wine, as
long as they ftay here upon devo-
tion. For this reafon there belong
large revenues to this Church, and
this Cellar is abfolutely the bed I
fa w in Italy. The veffels are hugely
great, and not to be removed from
hence. They have away to take
out a piece of their broad tides ,
and fo make them clean. They
are all hooped with iron , and'
fome of them are fo contrived ,
that they can draw three feveral
forts of wine, out of oneVefTd,
and by the fame tap. The expe-
rience is pretty, but the wine is bet-
ter. Now whether thefe Vcffels be
too many, or the revenues of the
Holy
Of Italy
34*
Holy Houfe too great,you may eaflly
conje&ure, when fo many/perfons
are fed dayly , as I mentioned a-
bove, and fo many thoufand pil-
j grims pafs fo frequently that way,
i Tar/e/ww^'writeSjthat betwe£ eafte* * Th Ik
and Whitfuntide, there have flock* bft-ofLt*
ed thither, fometimes five, {bme-"' tf/, *»
times Six hundred thoufand comu-
nicants •, and in two dayes fpac« in
September (about the Feaft of the
Nativity of our Lady)there have ap-
peared trvo hundred thoufand commie-
mcmtf>moi\. of which wetepHgrimr*
Having refreftied our {elves in2 r j&
this Cellar, we went to the Apo- iijj ■ j
thecaries fhop belonging to the
Holy Houfe alfo, and furnifhing
phyiick to fick pilgrims for nothing.
There we faw thofe famous pots
which make even phyGck it {elf look
fweetly^ and draw all curious Grang-
ers to Vifit them.- For round
about a great inner fhop , ftand
pots ofa great fee painted by Ra-
phael Vrbin's own hand, and there-
fore judged by Virtuofi to be of great
VaJu:. Witncfs thole four onely ,
V p ©»
A*t(9na,
^50 TheVoyage
on which are painted the four Evan-
geliftsjot the which were offered by
a French EmbafTador in his Kings
name, four pots of gold of the fame
bignefs, and wete refufed. Brave
Raphael^ whofe onely touch of a
finger could , Midas like, turn
gaily pots into gold. But as Vhidias
his ftatues of clay were as much
adored anciently, as his golden
ones : fo Raphaels hand is as much
admired in the Apothecary's (hop of
LoretO) as in the Vatican Pallace of
Rome. Thefepots were given to the
holy houfe by a Duke cfVrbinwkofe
fubjedt Raphael was, and for whom
he had made them with more than
ordinary art.
He that defrres to know more
of Loreto , let him read Turfdinus
his hiftory of Loreto. For my part,
my time being put , I mult be
gone.
Taking therefore hoiTe again,
we made towards Venice? and taw
thefe places in our way :
Ancona the Capital town of
the Marc*, and one of the beft:
Havens
O F I T ALT
m
Havens in the Gttlpb : correfponding
with Shvonia^Greccejyalmatica, and
many ether countryes. Its buiit
upon a Promontory, and backt up
land-way, with a good Caftle. The
Haven was built by the Emperor
Trajan whofe triumphal Arch is
yet feen here, and is the chief mo-
nument of this town. Here is a
Molo finking 200 paces into the
fea. Fwll. whileft he frayed here
to animate in perfon the great
expedition againft the Turk/ which
he had zealouily given beginning
to, died. In the vaults of the Great
Church are kept many faints bodyes,
& pretious Rclicks. Its called S.Ci-
riacfls Churcb,& it is the Cathedral. „ „,
Lrom Ancona we went to Sem- a
gaUia all along the S;a fide. This
town is fo called from the Senones
G-ilitf. Its a very neat and plea-
iant town (landing in a fweet air.
Its a Bilnops feat. Here began an-
ciently Gallia CifaJphia.
From hence we went to Fano(Fa- r^K '
num fortune') becaufc of the Tem-
ple of Fortune built here in memory
-P p 2 of
|52 The Votagi
of a battle wonn by the Romans
near the River Metam us hard by
where Asdwbal MannibaVs brother
was flain. Here's an ancient trium-
phal Arch yet ftanding. Not far
from this town alfo Narfites over-
came Zotila. Its an Epifcopal town.
P«/«r», From hence we went to Pefaro
ftanding alfo moft pleafantly by
the Seaiide. Its called Fefaro, and
Tefaurnm in Latin, from the Weigh-
ing here of the gold which the
Romans, befieged in the Capitol, -
ient hitherito be pay'd to thcGoules,
faith Serviut. It once belong-
ed to the Dukes of Vrbin, but for
want of heirs male, fell to the
Church by right. From the bridge
of ftone , which is here , begins
the Marca cT Ancona. The air here
is thought by Vranofcopiftj , to be
the beft in Italp as are alfo the figgs
here.
tatbolirt. From hence we pafled by Caihj'
lica a poor Village , adorned
with nothing but a (lately Name,
and an infeription upon the wall of
the Chappel, rendering you the rea-
foa
O f Italt 353
fori why this town is called Catbv
lie a, which was this. When the
Emperor Conftant'w a fierce Arrian
ufed violence to the Fathers that
had been aflembled in the Council
of Atimnl ( a town not far off)
and would not fufter them to de-
part ( their bufinefs being done,
wliich they came for , to wit ,
the Catholick Faith of the Council
of Nice being here alTerted and- con*
firmed ) till they had complyed
with theEmperors fa&io confiding
of Artims s Many of them too
weakly fbeing weary of fo long a
ftay from their Seats ) fell to an
unworthy complyance with the
Arrian party* Which the zealous
orthdoxe Fathers feeing, left Riming
and came into this little Village,
becaule they would not commu-
nicate with the Arriant : Where-
upon this Village got the name of
Catholic a , becaufe the true Ca-
tholick and or tbodoxe Fathers retired
hither. If you ask me then ,
whether this Council of Rimini were
good or no > I anfwer you, that
Pp 5 the
Jtimin;,
I
o^ The Voyage
the Council was good and ortfadoxt?
and confirmed the Faith ofthe Ni~
ten Council againft the Arriansh
which was the bufine(s it was called
about. And what happened after-
wards when the Council was ended
t>y the oppreilion of the Emperor,
is not to be imputed to the Council,
hut to fome weak Fathers as^ an
error of converfation,and a too un-
worthy compiyance.
From CaiholiQd we went to Kimi-
«i } called Arrimirmm in Latin, this
is a pretty town, in which the torc-
faid Council was • kept. In- the
taarket place I Hiwuhe ftone ( fet
liow'npdn a fedeftdl) upon whkh.
Ctfar flood when he madeaipeech
to his foldiers to make them refolve
to march up to Kcme. Hard by
in the fame market place, ftands
a little round Chappcl famous for
a miracle wrought there by S. Anto-
ny otfadua in confirmation of the
Reali Prefence. The Hiftory is too
long, but fecn here painted round
the Chappel, with a caft of an eye.
From
Or Italy 355
From hence we went through .
Cefena an Epifcopal town •, and JJ^"'
Forli^ForumLivii an other Bps feat j
in the way "before we came toCe-
fma we fa w an old inscription infrone
fet up by a little rivers fide, Which
I found to be the very decree of
the old Senate of Rome, forbid ing,
in general any officer, or foldier
whatfoever to pafs over the Rubicon
upon pain of being judged an
enemy to his country and guilty
of High Treafon. By which words
Igathered that this little; river here
new called Pijhtello-t was Rubicon^ Ruikotu
mentioned in the Decree of the Se^
natei and that this decree pointed
at Julw Cafar and his army.' Yet
Cafar. being reiolved to march up •
to Rome with his army , made a
fpeech to his foldiers i and find-
ing a compliance in their refolu-
tions, palTed over Rubicon , crying
out c Jatia eft alea : We mnft now ei-
ther Jtn\ or fmm, and io patted on
to Rome, which he Toon poiTeiTed
himfelf of and then of the world.
When once powerful me draw their
fwor&s
356 Tfte Voyage
fwords,they throw away their fcatr*
bards '■> andjwhen once they have
offended beyond pardon , they
ftrike at the very throat of autho-
rity, running upon that horrid
fnaxime , that feeler* feeler ibus funt
inenda.
From Forliwe paffed on the right
hand to Faenza, Faventid in Latin,
(leaving the way on the left hand 1 ,
M*m*> which leads to Inula and "Bologma.)
Faenza is a neat town as all the
r others we had paffed by before :
but having no coniiderable thing
in it but white earthen pots, called
Veflels of FaenzayWe flawed: not long
in if, but made towards Ferrara*
In the way I found little worth ob-
fervatien, except onely that as
we travelled one night fomewhat
late for coolnefs , I faw millions
of little rlyes in the air. 3 carrying
a bright light about them like
glowwormes.They continued all the
way to our Inn for two houres
after funfet, efpecially upon the
corn fields and high grafs. It
was huge pretty me thought, to
fee
O f Italy ^j-
fee heaven upon ear th almoft, and
flying ftarrs conduct us to our
lodging. A Poet would have
fworn by all the cords oiApoh^s
harp, that Jupiter then was mak-
ing Vulcan pave the Vault of hea-
ven with a Mofaick work of Dia-
monds, and that thefe were onely
the fparks that fell from him : or
that he was repairing the oldcauf-
£cy of the Via Lade a with frefh
ftarrs, and that thefe were the old
ones which he had throwneaway.
I catched fome of thefe ti'eryflyes,
to fee where it was that they car-
ryed their little Lanternes and can-
dles, and I found it was in their
tails. The country people callp^ *
them Lucciolt. And I believe , t \%4,
thefe are thofe . flyes which Pliny ArijU.u
calls CicindelMy and Ariltotle calls & partita
Palling thus along we came late
to a little Village , and the next
morning betimes to Ferrara. This Ftrrara,,
town of Ferrara was once the Seat
ofa Sovcraign Prince ofthe houfeof
Fjiey but for want of heirs male •»
P p 5- after-.
3-
258 Thb Voyage
after the death of Alfonfo the II.
it fell to the Church, and Clement
the VIII took poffeffion of ic in
perfon by an Entry and Ceremony
worthy of the pen of Cardinal Ben-
iivoglio who was there. The town
ftands in a plain, carrying above
four miles compafs j it hath a
good Citadell, ftrong walls , ram-
parts, bulworks: and a good garri-
fon of foldiers. Here are fair ftreets,
and very handfome Palhcesi but
people are fomewhat thin. The.
- ' . thines whieh I faw here were
1 . The T>omo^ ancient rather than
beautiful.
2. Over againft it, two Statues
jnbrafs of the Princes ofthehoufe
of EjU h the one Duke » the other
Mtrquii : the one Sitting, the other
on Horfeback.
3. Behinde theie Statues is
the Houfe of Ju(liee,or Town houfe.
v9€S%
4. Theftrogpallace of the dukes
inciently, is in the middle of the
Gown, with a great mote about it,
The
,Q. F J,TALY 359
the 90u.it within is painted with the
pictures of all the Dukes of Fenara,
here the Popes Legate lyeth.
5. The Diamond Pallace, as they The M*
call it, is of white marble without, ^Z
whole (tones are all cut dlamondmfe
into flnirp points. Having feen
it without, I longcl.to fee it within
hoping that a diamond pallace with- •
out, would be all carbuncle and
Pearl within. But I was deceived i
for entring in , I found nothing ,
worth the pains of going up' the
ugly ftairs:and the poor woman that
kept the houfe told me as much, as
well as the cold kitchin. I won-'
der the matter of this houfe doth
not keep it alwayeslockt up, that
Grangers might value it by its out-
iide onely, which is admirable in-
deed.
fa The Monaftery of the- Lenedic-
nns is ftately, in whofe church I Ario a Q , s t
found the Tomb of Ariojh authour j- om & ■
of the long Voe.me, called Orland)
FHrifg. He-was efteemedin his life
time a greatj^oet^ and as'fuchwas
crowned hWW I $&& by the Em-
{xrot;
»6o The Voyage
peror Charles theV. but he was of-
tentimes fcen, even in the ftreets,
to be too much tranfportcd with
Voetickjwyi and to become Ariofia
/WriopjWhile he was penning his Or-
Undo. He had a rich Vein, but a
poor purfe \ and while his head
was crowned with Laurel^ his bree-
ches were often out behind, as well
as tbofe of forqmto Taffi, of whom
Balzac, faith, that though he were a
good Poet,yet he had desfortmanw
aifes chattfes.
n. The Carthufians church is neat
and full of good pictures.
8. The Church and convent of the
Carmelits is alfo neat, in whofe libra-
ry 1 faw a Manufcript oijobn Bacon^
and an other of learned 7 homos
fValdenfis 3 both Englijbmen , and
both learned men.
Here's an Academy of Wits
called Gli Elevati. Of this town was
Hieronymus Savonarola author of the
3hiUar»-irittmfbm Crucis > and BaptiftaGtta-
•imtv: r { n i author of the Pafior Fido.
He that defires to know the hif-
Cory of Ferrari, let him read Gh-
5h Aca-
demy of
the Ufa
rj.
Of It a lit %6'i
nanni Baptifia Pigna , who hath
written or \texprofefJb*
From Ferrara we went to Padua
in two dayes, the feafon being good
and dryi otherwifc in winter,
its too deep a way to go by landi
therefore moft men embark at
Ferrara , and go by boat to Venice.
The rirft day, pafling over the Bo
in boat at Francalino, we reached
Knigo the firft town of the Vene- Rw 'X'«»
tian ftate. This Town is built
near where Adria ( from whence
the Adriatic]^ Sea is called ) once -**"*•
ftcod, and almoft upon its ruines.
Its governed by a Psdefia and a
Capitano Grande , as the other
Towns of S. Mark, are. Of this
Town was C«liitsRodigini4sd man
of various learning , as his books
fhewj and Bonifadas Bonifacii aa
other learned humanift. .
From Ruigo we arrived at Vadua
betimes, but the defire of feeing
Venice made us haften away the
next day j deferring to fee Pa-
dna till our return from Venice.
Embarking then betimes in
the.
■
H
LaLa-\
gutia.
362* The Voyage
the morning at Vaduz in a Fiotta^ a
neat little barge, taken to our
(elves, and much more honora-
ble than to go in the great tilt-
boat, where ail forts of iooiie Ruf-
fians and idle people throng you up,
we faw a world of (lately pallaces
and gardens (landing upon the
banks of the river Bronta i and
(he wing- us that we were approach-
ing to a great town indeed.
Some live miles fhort of
Ve7iice, we left the river and the
horfes that drew- us , and rowed
through the(hallow Sea which en-
vironeth Venice on all (Ides for
above five miles fpace. This low
Sea is called here hnL%guna\ and
tht water is fo (hallow that no
great (hips can come to Venice'.
little veffels come by certain chan-
nels which are well fortified with
caftles, forts, and chains , fo that no
man can come to Veniee but with
lieve or knocks. We arrived there
betime-s? and all the way we
admired to fee fueh a ftatcly City
lying as it were at Anchor, in
the.
Of It alt.
l$%
fhcmidft of the Sea v and ftandisg
fixed where every thing elfe floats.
Venice at firit was nothing but ^ ori -
a company of little dry fpots of*!" °f
ground which held up their heads ' '*
in a fhallow Sea furnjfhed by
Seven rivers, Fiava, Sila, Liven-
za, To, Adige, Brenta , and 7^-
gliammo, which run into it. To
thele little dry fpots of groud fifher-
men repaired anciently for their
fifliing, and built little cottages
upon them. But afterwards Italy
being overrun by Goths, Huns, and
Vicegoths , divers rich men from
feveral parts of Italy , as well as
from Padua, fled hither with the
heft of their goods, to fave them
and themfelves in thefe poor cot-
tages unknown to thofe barbarous
nations : and finding by experience
this to be a- fafer place than
any elfe 3 they began to provide,
againft thofe frequent difatters of.
barbarous incurfions, by build-
ing good houfes here. This many
men did and made at laft* a fine
town. .
364 The Voyage
town here, and greater than her
mother Padua. This happened
twelve hundred years ago, which
makes Venice glory , that (he is
the ancienteftRepublick in Europe.
To which purpofe I cannot omit
to tell here a pretty ftory which
was told me in Paris of a Venetian
Emba(Tadour 9 who reliding in the
Court of France, and hnding him-
felf in a vifit where there were
many Ladyes, , was ferioully asked
by a grave old Lady(who heard him
fpeak much of the Seignory of Ve-
nice) whether the Seignory of Ve-
nice were fair or no ? yes Madam,
faid he > one of the faireft in
Europe. Is (he great : faid the Lady
again ? yes, Madam, faid the
EmbafTador (he is great enough. Is
(he rich faid the Lady ? worth
millions, replyedthe Embafladour.
Methinks then, faid the Lady,
(he would be a good match for
\Monfuur the Kings brother: yes
.madam, replyed he again, but
that (lie is a little too old. Why
iJ£W how old ^ *he I P«y you, faid
/ the.
JBJt-tUe
EJfelle
grands ?
EfteUe
rnhi ? k
ZutUt
Of T T alt 3^5
tne Lady > Madam, anfwered the
EmbafTadour, fbe is about twelve
hundred years old. At which the
company fmiling, the good Lady
perceived her errour with blufhing,
and Monfieu? was unmarryed for
that prefent. Indeed Cosmography ,
and 7 opogr a phy arc hard words, and
as the old laying is, aliud Sceptrum*
alind pUttrum) a looking glafs is not
the fame thing with a map.
As for Venice now, 'tis one of fcbe
the faired Cities in Europe , and Venit *
called by the Proverbial Epithete , ww#
VinetialaRiccha> Venice the rich.Its
well nigh eight miles in compaft,
and in form fomcthing like a
Lute. It hath no wall about it to de-
fend it, but a mote of water that
is five miles broad which furrounds
it. It hath no fuburbs, but a world
of little Iflands clofe by it. The
ftrcets of Venice are all full of water j
and for this reafon they uie no
coaches here, but vifit in boats.
Thefe boats they call here Goh~ xfotGsa-
doLh, and there ate above twenty j t i atti
thoufand of them. For befides
that evere noble Venetian_or rich
man,
I
I
%66 The Voyage
roan hath two or three of his own,
there are alwayes a world of them
itanding together at feveral pub-
lick wharfs, To that you need but
cry out, Gondla, and you have
them lanch out prefently to yout
thefe Gondolas are pretty neat black
boats like our oars , holding fix
perfons conveniently upon the
Seats, which arq covered over head
with a thick felack cloath , with
windows at either fide, which in
winter defends you from the wind r
and in fummer from the Sun. The
multitude of thefe Gondolas help to
employ a great many poor, men ,
and, to make a world of mariners
For publick fervice in time of need.
Ordinary people here, may go up
and down the town by little back
allyes, which they call here Calk-,
thefe by winding up and down ,
and delivering (them over feveral
bridges, hugely puzzle ft rangers at
firm Of thefe bridges there are
above 15C0 in Venice 3 all of ftone
Etiiges anc j f one arc ^ reacn ing from one
»*«/«. fide of the [lreet tQ the otherj w h ile
the Gondolas, run under the arch.
The
The greateft of thefe bridges is
called the Bialio, built over the 3krial»
Canal Grande, all of white marble.
This is one cfthe fine ft bridges in
Europe, becaule of the one arch
only, and of the vaft widentfs-
and height of thatarch", the Cha-
nt! here being as wide as any man
can throw a ftone. This bridge
bears upon its back two. rows of
fhops, and little houfes covered
with lead •, and left this great
weight fhouJd make the foundation
link,, they built it upon Vilotier>
that is> great trees rammed into
the ground, to the number of fix.
thouftnd in all. In fine, this
bridge cpft two hundred and fifty
thoufand crowns. It were a fine
fight , to fee in a hard froft, the
fireets of Venice all frozen, and
people walking up and down
upon diamond ftreets, or a chryftal
pavement. In the mean time its
no unpleafing- fight to fee the
ftreets full of water, and fuch
ftately pallaces on either fide ,.
efpecially the Canal Grande, which
runs quite through the middle of
the
I
I
g68 The Voyaoe
the City , and is hedged in on
either fide with (lately houfes,
among which are counted two hun-
dred pallaces tit to lodge any King.
The whole City hath in it 32 Mo-
nafteries of religious men, 28 of re-
ligious women.yo Earim Churches i
and about a hundred and four-
icore thoufend inhabitants.
Having (aid thus much of the
fituation oiVenice^ I will now fpeak
of the Government,Strength,riches,
Religion, dc Interelt of this Repub-
lick,and then fall to the particularrs
I faw in if. .
< For the Government here,its pure-
ly Ariftocratical , by the "Doge ,
vtrmim. and the Nobles. The great counfel
abegrttit confiftsof twothoufand Gentlemen.
Gwnftl -phis j s . the y a f tf Q f the liate Gq< .
vernment 1. becaufe that out ofthefc
are chofen all the other magistrates,
Fodejias, Generals^ Capitani, Grandi^
FrovidetoriGcnerali^tnbaffadors^&c,
This great Counfel affembles fre-
quently in one. great room of
the Doges pallace, where there are
feats for them all, and where bu-
fineiTcsIre voted bybalotingi that
is
Go-
Of It alt 369
is by -putting in a clofe double
box of two colours, a little ball,
about the bignefs of a button ,
which is made fo foft -that no man
can hear into whether part of
the double box the ball tails. E-
very Gentleman in this great counfcl
hath two of thefe balls given him,
one white and the other red : the
one fignifying, the affirmative vote,
the other the negative: fo that they
give their votes fecretly, and with-
out being known afterwards for
what party they Hood i or without
giving example to others to follow
them in their votes , as leading
men would do? and fo draw all into
faction and cabals.
To run through all the Magifrrates
and Officers of this Republick, the
Fregiadi) thefavi Grandi-, the favi di
Terra ferma , the fail degli mainly
th c configlio de died, 8cc. would be
a work too long for a traveller,
and too tedious for my reader.
I will only fpeak of the fliprcme
Magiftrate here, the T>oge , or 2 *' 1 ^'-
Prince, as they call him, who re-
prefents the head of this Republick.
He
270 The Voyage
He is now chofen by the whole
Senate, and is for life : heretofore
he was hereditary till the year loa-
the manner of balotting in chooling
the Doge is fuch a puzzle that I
had rather you- mould read it in
Sabetiem, than I give my felf the
trouble of defcribing it. For the
mod part they chuie a man well
>ftricken in years , and one who
hath-made his circle of EmbaiTyes:
that is, hath been fifteen years
£rnbviTadour in the chief courts of
Europe, three years a piece in every
one: and fo acquired unto himfcli
a per feci: knowledge of all fines
and ltate affairs. Being chofen
once, he cannot ftir out of the
Laguna without lieve. Nor at
home can he do all things of his
own head, but with the advice of
his Counfcllers, who are iix, chofen
out of the moft honourable gentle-
men of the City. Thefe iix lit
with him in counfel, and execute
with him all bufineltes, as to give
audience, read letters, grant pri-
viledges, and the like : which
cannot
Of Italy 571
Cannot be executed by the Doge,
if there be not four counfellers with
him •, and yet they can execute
and act without the Doge', and its
they that have authority to pro-
pofe in the great Counfel, things of
concern, In giving fuffrages, .his
fuffragc is no more than an ordi-
nary Senators, in the Senate i but
he hath two voyces in the Great
Countel. The Doge and tbefe Coun-
fellers are called 11 Collegio t but
then in main publick affairs there
enter into this Counfel, fix Savi
Grandi , five Savi di Terra Ferma,
five Savidegli Ordini> and TreCapi
de Quaranta Criminal'*- This full
Colledge diftributes bufinefs to the
other magiftrates to be handed, ha-
ving been headed here.
The habit of the Doge is ancient,
and hath fomething of the Pontifi-
cal habit in it. His Pomp, Train,
and Lodging are a 1 Princely => and
in publick functions he hath carryed
before him the eight filver trumpets,
the great Vmhreh'a of cloth of tyf-
fue,the Cuuhion, the Chair, thegiit
fvvord,Sc a white wax candle carried
by
Marce.
372 The Voyage
by a child. All letters of State
are written in his name, and mo-
ney is coyned in his name, but the
impronto? or ftampofit, is alwayes
the figure of S. Marh^ , or S. Markj
Lyon. For the moft part the Doge
is chofen out of thofe whom they
Procurato c3i \\ here, Procurator! di £• Mareo,
n it StfHyhefe Procurators are of high ranck
and efteem in this Repubhck. Here-
tofore there was but one Trocu-
r atari di San Marco, whofe office
was, to have a care of all things
belonging to S. Marias Church and
the Treafure. But now ttare are
twenty five, moft of which have
made their circles of Embaifyes in
forraign Courts, and are fit wood to
make Doges of; though fome of
them of late have been aflumed
to that d-ignity for money \ the
State now making money of all
men, as well as of all things.
As for the Strength and Power
of Venice? its very great \ their pof-
feffions in Italy? being full as great
as the Popes > and out of Italy? far
greater. In Italy they hold fourteen
Provinces under them. They are
Lords
Their
ftrtngth
Of It alt
37:
3
Lords of tlmCulph , >or Adriatic^
Sea. ■ i; ■':■-. .
They ppfleflc/the.-coaft of !><*/*■
w^/ia beyond theGulpb* They hold
the lies of Corfu, Cepbalonia & Z<*«f.
Cand'ia \ or the I/e of Cm a , belongs
to them by due. The kingdome
of Cyprus alio is pretended to by
them 7 and by it , and Candy , whofe
two crowns they (hew us in the*
1 Trcafury,re«fce \s iWWed Seremflima. '
The kingdome of Cyprus came to
the Venetians by Catherine Cornaro
who was made heire of it by her
ion the King thereof, who dyed
young, and without ifTue about the
year 1438. The ltory is this. Ka- ,
therine was daughter of Marco Cor- comuiu
naro, . and neece of Andrew Coma- mj} or , .
re two noblemen of Venice, Andrew
was fent Axditore Generale into the
Kingdom of Cyprus, in the time of
J awes King of that Ii1and,andhelpt
him to many thoufand Crowns,
whereby he fettled his tottering
Crown, One day as the King was
talking familiarly with him, he
let fall ( whether by chance, or
defign) a little picture in miniar*
274 The Voyage
iure , of a very handfome Lady.
The Ring curious to fee it, called
for it civilly, and viewing it we'll,
fell hugely in love with the Origi-
nal of it, which Andrew allured
him to be far handfomer than the
copy, and withall added, that if his
Majsfty l?ked her , (he was his
Neece, and that therefore he offcx-
ed her freely to him for his wife ,
with all "the money he had already
lent him, and a hundred thoufand
crowns more.The King bit willing-
ly at thefe two baits, beauty, and
money, apd was not quiet till he
had marryed her. Of her he had
but one fori, whom ( dying ) he-
left under his mothers protection ,
but he dying alfo not long after,
left his mother heir of the King-
dom ■> and fhe at» her death ,
left this Crown and Kingdom to
the Venetians by will and gift.
This whole hiftory I 'law painted.
in the pallace of Cornaro by the
hand of Paulo Verotiofc As for the
flrong holds which the Venetians ,
poiTels in Italy , they are thefe :
Gretna, Bergamo^ Brefeia } Pejchtera,
.fbiofa
OfItaly 375
Cbiofcti and Talma Nmva in Frttili.
This laft is one of the belt places F»lm»
in Europe. It hath nine royal bafiiotuy ******
^eighteen Cavaliers,which command
all the neighbouring Campagnia : it
hath ditches of water about it thirty
paces broad , and twelve deep*
Its ramparts behind the wall arc
highland covering, and they are
alwayes fringed with a hundred
pieces of Canon, and ready to re-
ceive fix hundred more, which are
alwayes in its magazin ready upon
all occafions. And for men and
armour as the great Arfenal in
Venice hath alwaies arms in ready-
nefsfor a hundred thoufand men i
fo this ftate being peopled with
three millions of men, would eafily
find three or four hundred "thou-
fand men of fervice, and a hun-
dred-Gallies : yet their ordinary mi-
litia is but of fourfcore thoufand
foot, and fome 6cco horfe * and
thirty Gallies,
for their riches j though fhelr
ordinary revenues ( before &i<kth
late wars with the Turk )
exceeded not four millions , yet now
Q,q 2 they
•about
»• As
their
thefe
Thiirtt
076 T^e Voyage
they fpur themfelves , and the
Country up to excefftve fumms.
Few dye but they bequeathfome-
thingtofuch a Chriftian fcrvice as
this war is. Befides this , the
taxes are much augmented , and
feizures and forfeitures more nar-
rowly looked into, to help publick
expences. In fine, befides this, the
great trading which Venice drives ,
( Aleppo alone bringing in fome
years, four millions of gold )
the Venetians have found out
very compendious way to raife, in
one quarter of an hour , and by
one da(h of a pen, fifty hundred
thoufand crowns, to help them-
(elves withall at a dead lift , and
incommodate no man. This they
did An- 1646, when fifty rich fa-
milies in Venice gave to the ftate a
hundred thoufand Crowns apiece
to be made noble Venetians.Thc like
courfe they took to raife money ,
about a hundred years ago, when
they were fct upon by moft of the
Princes of Europe at once.
As for their religion, its Roman
Catholick, and they have never
changed
O f Italy, g.?7
changed it fince the beginning of
their Republick. Hence Mr. Ray-
mond in his Merctmo Italico page
i £8. faith truly, that Venice hath
this property above all other States;
that (he is a Virgin, and more, from
her fii'ft infancy, Chriltian : having
never yet fell from her Principles
cither in Government or religion It
began to be built the very fame year,
that S. Aiiguftin dyed', ( as Baro-
niUi obferves.
As for the Intereft of this Repub- ™"J In '
lick, they are now well with the 7* '
Emperor j not out with Sfain^ nor
too fecure of his Friendship » kind
with the French, as long as they
keep out of I;a/y>well affcdted to En-
glandwd juft friends with the Pope.
Now for the particulars which I
faw in Venice^ they were thefe.
i. The men themfelves here, who
looked like men indeed : and as a
Philofopher anciently faid, that
when he came from Corinth to
Sparta> he feemed to come from,'
horfes to men : fo me thought,
wh en I came from France to Venice
I came from boyes to men. For here
aq3 l
I
378 The V oyage
I faw the handfomeft . the moft
lightly, the moft proper, and grave
men that -ever I faw any where
elfe. They wear alwaies in the
town CLfpeak of the Noblemen )
along black gown, a blackcap knit,
with an edging of black wool about
it, like a fringe ■> an ancient and
manly wear, which makes them
look like Senators. Their hair is
generally the beft I ever faw any
where -, thefe little caps not pref-
fing it down as our hats do > and
Perywigs are here forbid. Under
their long gowns ( which fly open
before )theyhave handfbme black
twites' of rich fluffs- with {lockings
and garters, and Spanifh leather
ihooes neatly made. In a word ,
I never faw fo many proper men
together, nor fo wife, as I faw day-
ly there walking upon the Piaz-
za of S. MurJ{. I may boldly fay,
that I faw there five hundred
gentlemen walking together every ,
day, every one of which was able
to play the EmbsfTador in any Prin-
ces court of Europe. But the mifery
as, that we Grangers cannot walk
there
O f Ital y , 379
i there, with them, and talk with
them, but muft keep out of their
way , and ltand aloof ofif. The
reafon is this : This ftate(as all Re-
publicksare ) being hugely, jealous
of her liberty and prefervation ,
forbids her Noble men and Sena-
tors to converfe with Forrain Em-
baffadors, or any man that either
is anadtual fervant or follower of
an Embaffador, or hath any the lead:
relation to any Princes Agent,with-
out exprefs lieve i and this up-
on pain of being fufpedted as a
Traitor, and condignly punifhed.
This makes them fhy to. all ftrang*
ers , not knowing what relation
they may have to Come forraign
flares man or Agent. For the fama
reafon they will not let their wives
vifit the wives of forrain Emhajfadors
redding in Venice, for fear of being
fufpeclred to commit treafon by
proxie. They have in the wall of the
Pallace, in divers places, certain
wide mouths of marble (tone, over
which I found written thefe words:
"Denuncie fecrete, private informa-
tions, into which they caft lecret-
■I
Venhe
380 The Voyage
ly papers of accufations, by which
I they accufe fecretly any officer ,
or nobleman , whom they dur(t
not accufe publickly. This makes
men itand hugely upon their guard,
and be wary with whom they con-
verfe, and what t hey fay.
2. As for the women here, they
Xbettobh iwould gladly get the fame reputa-
wffw«0rt tat i on that their Husbands have,
of being tall and handfome '■> but
they overdo it with their horrible
cioppini , or high fhooes, which
have often feen to be a full half
yard high. I confefs, I wonder-
ed at firit, to fee women go upon
ftilts, and appear taller by the
head than any many and not to be
able to go any whether without reft-.
ing their hands upon the, fhoul-
ders of two grave matrons that
ulber them : but at lair, I per-
ceived that it was good policy, and
a pretty ingenious .way .either to
. clog .women at home byfuch hea-
|vy {hoes ( as the EgYP^ 115 kept]
their wives at home by allowing;
them no (hoes at alb) cr at lealti
tp make them not able to go ei-
ther
Of Italy 581
titer far, or alone, or invifibly.
As for the young Ladies of this
Town, that are not marryed, they
are never feen abroad, but masked
like Mfcaradis iri a ftrange difguife,
at the fair time, and other publick
folemnities or (hows, being at other
times brought up in Monafteries
of Nuns, till they be marryed.
3. Then I went to the Church *££}'
of S. Marl^ the Evangelift, whofe
body lyeth here 3 having been trans-
lated hither from Alexandria, 820
and odd years agos having ever h-
finte been one of" the chief Patrons
of this ftate, as his Lyon hath ever
(ince been the Arms of the Re-
publick, and its leal m all publ»ck
writings. This Church is built a
h Thcdefca, as they call it, and as
the bii\ Churches built about thofe
times, were. Its neither great
nor high i but fo rich for the ma-
terials, that norhing but Mofaick'
work and marble appear in it. The
roof arti the walls a good way
down, are curioufly painted with'
M)fa:ck hiftoriesand pictures-, and
the reft of the wall is rare marble. I
Among thofe Mfoicl^piftitresi there!
are to bs feen in the vault of the I
Arch over the door of the Trea=|
fury, two old pictures the one of I
S. Vominic^the other ofS. Francis , I
both made before they inftituted
their feveral Orders, and yet both,
in the religious habits which thofe
of their Orders wear •, and all this..
out of the predictions of Joachim
Mattnfus ( Abbat of Cutac'ium^ and not ot S.
•ft,npo, Fleurr, as fome wrongly call him:}
who lived before theft Of ders were
inftituted. The picture alfo of the
Pope, near to the Pictures of the
forefaid Saints, is faid to be a
Prophetical picture of the faid Ab-
bs defcribing » reprefenting the ;
laft Pope that (hall govern the
flock of Chrift, when all the world
{hall be of one religion. The pave-
ment of this Church is fuitable to
the reft , being in fome places
compofed of vaft marble nones
naturally reprefenting the waves
of the Sea j in other places its
airioufly inlayd with ftones of fe-
deral colours exprefling Flowers ,
ftars,
Of Italy 383
fhrs, birds, hearts and the like:
among which itones I perceived
here and there fome Turky ftones
of great value among us, but here
not fcorning to be trod upon.
Thirty fix marble pillars of around
form, and two foot thick in dia^
meter, hold up the roof of this
Church. The High Altar is a rare
piece, cfpecially when you fee the
back of it open as I did upon the
Aicenfion Eve. This back of the Al-
tar is richly adorned with divers
rows of little enamelled pictures, a.
laGreca, let in gold; and enriched
with brave pearl and pretious '
Hones intermingled every where
between the pictures. This molt
rich ornament., or back of the Al-
tar, was given by a Vo%e.qt Venice^
and brought from [Contlantiwple.
Behind the High Altar t'hnds the
Altar of the B. Sacrament, where
there are two tranfparent round
pillars 4 yards high. In the Sacrilfy
which is hard by,I fa w neat Mofaick
work in the roof i and an admirable
picture of £. Hlerome of the fame-
work alio. Round about' the infide
f.
3B4 The Voyage
of the Church , over the pillars,
liang the Scntcbwis of feveral ZV
gcr, in a large the. For the V>gss
at their creation, caufe three things
to be made.Firii their picture which
is fct up in the Sal a. of the great
Counfel: Secondly their arms or
Scutchion, which- are fomctimesof
Silver and of a huge fize \ and are
fet up after the Vogcs death in the
Church for ever. Thirdly they rnufll
make their picture in. the Cdlegio ,;
ox.Prcgiadi'
XhtTrea- 4* From the Church we were
fury ofs. let in to fee the Treafui y of S. Mar^
Mark- which joins to the Church. It was
fhovvn us by fpecial lieve from
above, and by two Noble Venetians
vvhoarealwayes pr.fent whenit is
fliown. We were tirit (hown the
Spiritual Treafure, & then the tem-
poral i that is, firft the Relicks, and
then the jewels. The relicts were thcTe
principally. A great authentic.al
piece of the holy ctofs, above a fpan
long. It is the greatest piece I
have feen any where, except that
in the Holy Chappel in Paris, and
though fame enemies of the very
Crofs
'The Spiri
tualTre-
Jure.
O f Italy 385
€ro(s of Chrift, as well as of other
Rclicks, do jceringly (ay, that there
are Co many pieces of the Holy
Grot's fhown in the world, that if
They were all put (ejether, they
would make a cart load of wood:
yet I dare maintain more probab-
ly , that all the pieces any one
man can dy_ are fhown in Etivope
(and L have feen a good part of it)
would not make fo much of the
Crofs, as one of thofe parts on
which our Saviours hands were nail-
ed : feeing the grcateft part that we
find of it, is no thicker than an
ordinary mans finger, and little
longer than afpans and that very
part of it which I faw in the Popes
own Sacriity in the Vatican is no
longer than a mans little linger :
and if the King of France (S. Lewi*)
in his two expeditions into the
Holy Land , could get o.nely fo
little a. piece of it as that which
is fhown in Parv in the Saint Cbap-
£<?//,\ and if the Pope himfelt could
gee no greater a piece of it, than
that mentioned above, I do not
wonder if in other places, they
(hew
the Urn-
porahrea
jure-.
386 The Voyage
fhew fuch little (hreds of it , as
all together would not make two
foot of timber, much lefs a cart-
load. We faw alfo here a finger of S.
Mark- His ring with a ftone in it,
which our Lip'daries cannot tell
how to name. Some of our Savi-
ours blood gathered up inhisPafli-
oa, with the earth it was fpiltupon.
A thorne of the Holy Crown of
thornes. A nail which nailed the
two pieces of the Crofs together.
A finger of S. Mary Magdalen. A
piece of S. John Baftifts Cranium.
A tooth of S. Mxrk^ A piece of
S. Jchn Baprijls habit. Some of
our B. Ladies hair. An ancient pic-
ture of S. John Baptifi, enamelled
in gold. A piece of our Saviours
"white robe when he was (corned. A
Very ancient pidture of our B. Lady
carryed about anciently by Con-
ftanrin the Grear,who had it alwayes
with him. One of the Stones of the
lorrent, wherewith S. Stephen was
ftoncd. And in fine, the fword of
S.PfffT.
Then leading us to the temporal
freajure in an other room , they
fhew'd;
Of Italy. ^j
fhew'd us ( by candlelight, as they
did alfo the Spiritual Treafure) thefe
things. Fir ft, the twelve crownes of
gold,& the twelve bread and back-
pieces (like womcns clofe bodyes}
of beaten gold alfo,fet thick,as well
as the Crownes , with exquiiit
pearl, both round, and big ; Twelve
young Virgins ufed to wear them
anciently upon a Feaft day. Then
three great Carbuncles, one where-
of weigheth fix ounces, and is big-
ger than an ordinary henns egg :
They Value it at two hundred
thouiand crownes. Then the two
Crownes of gold Cet thick with pre-
tious {tones i one being the Crown
of the kingdome of CjprWi the
other of the kingdom of Candy.
After this they (hewed us the Vo-
£e's Crown, called here il Corno^
becaufc its made fomewhat (harp
and turning in at the top, like a
horn. Its fet round with a clofe
row, of excellent pearl , each one
as big as a hafel nut, with a Vaft
Ruby in the front of it , worth
a hundred thoufond crownes, fay
they 7 and one of the fairelt dia-
monds
g8S The Voyage
moiids in Europe in the top of [;.
Then they me<v'd us many orher
rich things, as the Flower de Luce
of gold with a rich Diamond in if,
given by Hdry the Third o£ France
at his palling by Venice when he
came oat of -Poland. The two
V nic or nes homes, far left than that
atS. Denys in France; but no lefs
true. The two Crucifixes fet with
pearl and rich jewels, and in great
number. The Great Caudleiticks
- and Thurible of beaten gold, and
curiouily wrought : each one being
almoit as heavy as a man- can
carry in both hands. The Great
Chalice of gold, as great as a man
can lift with both hands. A Sipbyr
weighing ten ounces. A cup, or dilh,
as broad and deep as an ordinary
calioteCor cap which we wear under
our hats ) and all of one I'urky
ftone entire, and of huge value i
It was fent unto this Republick by
a King of Terfia. A Veifel like a
tankard,of a rich Cameo i its handle
being curioufly engraven with a
diamond. A little Vale of therbotes
oiEmmeraud.^n orher of Sardonic ';.
A,
Of Italy £%
A great cup of Agate. An other
of Roman Agate far finer than the
former, and more tranfparent. A
rich Pax of Motherof pearl. A5pj»J/&
Embaffador^once. viewing this Trea-
fure, took a candle and looked
eurioufly under the ' long tables
upon which:' thefe rich things are
expofed i and being asked what he
looked for, anfwered : that he
looked whether this Treafure had
rootes or no, as his mafters Trea-
fure had and therefore groweth
yearly : meaning the India Fleet o£
Spain which bringeth home yearly
to the King of Spaines coffers and
Treafure, twelve millions.
5. Having feen this Treafure and
thanked the two noble Venetians™^?"
that flood by v and requited the
under officers that fhew'd it ; we
went into the Doge's Pallace, which
joyncs to St Marks Church ■-, and
mounting up the open Hairs into
the open Gallery, We faw the two
great marble Statues of Mirs and
Neptune, which iUndat die head of
iheCe ihirs, and iigtr.fy the itrength.
of the Venetians both by Sea and
Land,
PaHace.
390 The Voyage
Land. They are excellent pieces,
otherwife great Sanfovbw would
never have owned them by writ-
ing under them : Qpm Smfovini.
This ope Gallery led us into a world
of Chambers of Juftice , and Clerks
offices,all throngd with buGnefs and
bufy men. Going up from hence
into a higher ftory , we faw the
Doge's Chamber of audience, his An-
iicbamberf, his dining room, and
the like. From thence we were led
into feveral great Chambers of
Counfel, all rarely well painted.
After that we faw the great cham-
ber, or Sala of the Senate houfe,
where the Nobles meet upon affairs
as great as the Chamber.. For here
they meet about the chuiing of
publick Officers, either for the go->
verning of the City 3 or Army :
and fometimes they have been
forced to ftay there eight dayes
(faith SabeJIicus ) not being able
to agree about the Elections* they
not being permitted to depart
thence till they agree. This Se-
nate houfe, or Great Chamber, is
a&ove threefcore paces long , and
thirty
OF IT^LY g
thirty wide. Its full of Seats for
the Noble Venetians, to the number
of two thoufand men , who have
right to enter here. Its painted
on all fides by the rareft painters
that were in Italy when this room
was made. Over the Doge's throne,
is a rare piece of painting cove-
ring the whole end of the room
above,- and reprefenting heaven
in a glorious manner. Its of the
band of Tintoret. The great
pidures upon that fide of the rooin
which looks towards the court of
thePallace, contain the hiftory of
Pope Alexander the III, and the
Emperor Federick^ Barbaroffa. I faw
alfointhis great room, and in the
next joyning to it, the true pictures
of all theVoges of Venice. In the
other Chambers of this Pallace, in
the Churches, and other Pallaces of
this town , I faw fo many , and
fo rare pieces of painting, of 1i-
tiatiy lintoret, Belling, Gentile, Cafiel
Franco, Bajfano, Paolo Veronefe.Per-
donone and others, that with Madam
Homes leave , I dare boldly fay i
that no place of Italy hathfo many
rd*e
tflje Utile.
Arjhml
3p-2 The Voyage
rare pictures in it, as Venice hath :
and perchance , you will be of
my op'nion , if you read the
curious book of %^d>lfi^ who hath
written the lives of the Painters of
Venice, and the Venetian State'* and
fets down where their prime pieces
are to be feen.
7. Having feen thefe Chambers
Ql Indie aim e, we were led about to
the Sala of the Configlh de Vieci^
(otherwife called, the little Arfe-
rial) in the Pallace (till. Its a cu •
rious fight, and therefore not to be
omitted by my Traveler. There are
arrives in it for a thoufand men 9
ready upon all occafions of fedi-
tion or treafon. The muskets are
alwayes charged and primed , & e-
very fix months they difcharge
them , to charge them a frefh.
Pikes,and fwords,are alfo fo ordered
here, that by plucking a firing,
they fall into the hands of thofe
that fhould ufe them : fo that in
lefs than half an hour, a thoufand.
men may rally out armed. In the
end of the great room where the
muskets
Of Italy g^g
muskets hang, (lands a great iron
ball pierced through like a basket
hilt, and four times as big as a
fouldiers helmctjwithin which there
is a fpring, which being uncockt
by the pulling of a cord, (hikes
fire into gunpowder which lyeth
round about within this ball in a
train, and there are fo many feve-'
ral ends of match as there are
musket here •, half of the match
hanging out of the holes of the ball,
the other half being within, and
reaching into the train of powder :
fo that the firft man that (hould
come in and pluck the forefaid
cord would prefently firike fire,
and light the match all at once *
and then every man catching a
musket, and one of thefe matches
lighted, they are armed in a mo-
ment. This armory is to fecure
the Doge and the Senators (while
they are aiTembkd in counfel )
from fuch like treafons-as have
been plotted againft them whilft
they were fitting in counfel. And
for this purpofe , there's a door
which openeth out of the Senate
houfe
^94 ^ HE Voyage
houie into this Armory ■-, and the
Keys of it are alwayes laid near
the Doge when he fits here in con-
futation: Nor is this Co much an
Italian Jealofy, asa prudent caution
caafed by pall dangers. For they
(hew us in the great Arfenal, the
armour (with one arm onely, to
be worn under a Venetian gown,
while the other arm was mowed
bare, to take off all fufpicion) of
Bajamantelbeopoli^nd his complices,
to the number of eight hundred
men , who intended to kill the
whole Senate while it was afTem-
bled i and make Bajamante mafter of
Venice. But the plot was dafht irt
the execution i becaufe Bajamantes
brains were datht out by a poor
woman, who feeing him march
under her window in the head of
his rebellious crew , threw down
Sabellictu fr om } ler w indow a great earthen
,l ' flower pot upon his head, and killed
him dead. His party feeing this,
retired, and were foon fubdued :
i.and his houfe was turned into a
Shambles for butchers •, a fit diigi ace
for him who would have been the
Butcher
O f Italy 395:
Butcher of his Piince andcountry-
me, here alio in this Arfenal we faw
the fword and armes of brave Scan-
derkg Prince of Albania^ who wonn
feaven battles over feven the
moft illuftrious Baps the Great
T«r^ had , and dyed after all
peaceably in his Eftates, in fpiteof
Amuratb. Its faid , that the great
7ur}^ hearing how Scmderbeg with
his fwordj had cloven men in two,
tent to him h and defircd him, to
fend him his faord-ybis- cutting fwcrd'.
which he did > the 3«r£ tryed
it upon his flaves , and rinding
that he could not cleave men as
Scanderbeg had done,fent him word,
that he had not fent him his true
fword', to whom Scanderbeg replyed,
that he had fent 'him indeed his
fword, but not his arm. As for this
fword, which they call here Scan-
derbegs fword , its a broad thin
blade of a reafonable length ,
I but light, and of as good met-
tal almoft , as its matter. We
faw here many other curiofities:
as the ftandard of the Doge Zani^
j who reitored Pope Alexander the
III,
%$6 The Voyage
III unto his Seat again - , with his
fw o r d 3 buck le r, & h e 1 m e t . T h e. i) a n .-
dard of the great TWj^.The flandard
of horfes hair belonging alio to
the great Turf^ and which he hung
out al . wayes before battle ,- . as a
fignal of combat : it was taken by
a Frenchman called Ciotar. The
Statues of Ludmcj Sforza Duke of
Mi/*»,and of his wife Vifcmti. The
flattie or head of Carar j^whom they
call the Tyrant, but how truly I
know not. The ftatue or head in
brafs of brave Venerio, General cf
the Venetians in the battle of Le~
pa?ito. The head in brafs alfo of
brave 'Bragadino^ Head alive by the
Turks for his countryes fervice.
Thepidure offama Iufiitiain agreat
cafe let with rich (tones. This cafe
was made for a great looking glafs
which the Venetians' fent unto the
Su'tanef&ot the great Turk, •> but
the Chip that carryed it y meeting
in the way af'rigat which brought
the news ofa great Victory gotten
over the Turkf by the Venetians up-
on 5.w** JufihiM day, it returned
back again with the prefent, and
the
Of Italy
397
the Senate caufed the glafs to be ta-
ken out, and Santa Jujimas picture
to be fet in place of it. Then we
faw a rare Carpet, or rather a cu-
rious piece of fluff with figures in
it, fentto the Republick of Venice
by a King of Perfta. 'The habits of
two noble Cbinefi who were bapti-
zed at Venice. The armour of brave
Gatta Mehy with the pi&ure of a
cat in his head piece. The armour ©f
fome of the ancient T>2ges of Ve-
nice, who to the number of forty
or fifty , went to war in perfon,
and did fuch things there, as to
make their very armour to be ho-
nourable. The habit, buckler, and
fword of a Kingof Per/^ jthearmes
are fet with rich ftones. The ar-
mour of Henry the IV. of France
with his pocket piftol. The armour
of the Duke ofRoban.-Thc compleat
armour of a little boy about 10 years
old , who was found dead in a
battle fighting . for th<* Venetians
and his country, and not known
who he was. Poor brave child?
who being worthy never to have
dyed • doeft not fo much as
R r live
398 The Voyage
live in hiftory ! Indeed I did not
think till then, that Mars had his
abortives too , dying before
their time, and before they were
named. Then they (hew'd me
Anita's Helmet, with the head
piece of his horfe. A Cannon (hoot-
ing feaven (hots at once , as if
death with his fingle dart went too
flowly to work. An other Cannon
(hooting threefcore (hots in ten
barrel.'!. A halbard with a barrel
within it, (hooting fourteen (hots.
An other halbard (hoooting fea-
ven (hots. A Cannon of iron car- j
tying two miles , and curioufly
wrought into flowers with the ,
points of chizels. The collar of
iron of the Taduan Tyrant (as they
call him here) Carara. The little
iron Crofsbow of the fame Tyrant,
with which he is faidtohave (hot
needles a fpan long, and killed
many men privatly , who knew
not how, or by whom they were
hurt. Then the divels Organs, or a
trunck of leather with iopiftol bar-
rels in it of a foot and a half long,
and fodifpofed in order like organ
pipes, ,
Of Italy 399
pipes, that upon the opening of
the lock of this trunck , all thefc
barrels being charged with feve-
ral ballets, (hould let fly at once,
and Co (battering wide , kill all
thole that (hould be in the room.
This trunck was contrived by a re-
vengeful man, who having a mind
to be revenged both of his ene-
my, and of his enemyes friends
at once, fenthim this trunck by an
unknown bearer ( as a prefent
from a friend ) while he treated
his friends at a dinner. The holes
through the (ides of it , made by
the bullets, (hew the devililn erTedt
of this trunck •> and how well it de-
(erves the name of the devils or-
gan. The box of botargot here is
juft fuch another invention. A
piftol in a pocket book here is as bad
as the others, which being char-
ged and let off, would prefently
read your doom Swords and dag-
gers, with piitol and little gun bar-
rels running along their blades , .
which Veing held drawn with the
broad, fide to a man , appear to-
be onely plain fwords and dag*
R r 2 gers,
400 T HE Voyage
gers, and yet they difcharg thrnfts
not to be parried by any fencing
guard.! faw alfo here a fine taber-
nacle of Chryftal : a burning Lamp
found in Antenor's tomb in Padua.
a burning glafs, which burnethhalf
A mile off: a rare Adam and Eve
with the Serpent and the tree, all
cut out of one piece of wood by
the rare hand of Alberto Ditreo :
and in fine, the picture of King
James of England, the onely pidture
of any forraign Prince that I faw
there.
HiPiaz- Having thus feen this Cabinet of
z* *f$. Mars , we went out of the Pallace
Mar k? into the ?iazza of S> Mark^ upon
which both the forefaid Church of
S. Markj and the Page's Pallace
look. This is one of the noblelt
Piazzas that a man can fee in any
town. It runns from the Sea fide
up along the Pallace to the Church
©fS. Mtrkj and from thence turn-
ing on the left hand , it fpreads
it felf into a more large, and longer
open place, moft beautiful to be-
hold : for the whole Piazza, e ven
from the Sea fide , to the further
end
O f Italy 401
end , is all built upon arches and
marble pillars •> and raifed up with,
beautiful lodgings, fit ro lodge
all the Vrocuratori of S. MarJ^i all
the richforrain merchants^ a world
of perfons of condition ; the Mint,
and the famous Library. In that
part of thcpiazza which lies under
the Pallace, the Nobili Venetian!
walk altogether, twice a day, to
confer about bufinefs of State.
This meeting here of the Noble-
men is called the Broglio. And in
the end of it , clofe by the Sea
fide, ftand two great pillars of rich
marble , the one bearing upon it
the Image of S. Theodoras* the other,
the Lyon of S. Mar\, thefe two
Saints, S» Min^and S. Theodore,
being the two Patrons of this City.
Thefe two pillars were erected here
by a Lombard, who required no
other recompence for his paines,
than that it might be lawfullfor
dice-players to play at dice between
thefe two pillars without being
puniflied or molefted, nay though
they play'd falfe play. Here- alio
between thefe two pillars, they
R r 3 execute
ii©2 The Voyage
execute malefa&ors , to mew that
they deferve not the protection of
thofe two patrons, who break the
order's of that town which is under
their prote&ion. Its pitty that the
Lombard himfelf was not whipped
here at leaft,for making himfelf the
Prote&or of idle rogues there, where
she Saints are Patrons of honeft
men. Over againft the Pallace
ftands the Mint, in a place called
La Zeccba, and from hence the
gold coyned here is called Zecch'mo^
piece of gold worth fome feaven
(hillings fixpence of our money.
Hard by it, ftands the Library fa-
mous both for the quantity and
Quality of the bookes, that are in
it..Pdr^(once Canon of the church'
otTadua) gave his Library to it i 6c
Beffarion a Greek Cardinal of great
Learning and worth, gave as many
Greek Manufcripts unto it, ascoft
him thirty thoufand crownes:& yet
by this Legacy , Bejfarion was but c-
ven with the Venetians, who hono-
red him in fuch a particular man-
ner, as to fend out the Bucentauro
it felf to bring him into Venice,.
being
Of Italy 403
being fent thither Legat by the Pope.
8, Going from hence into the
other part of the Fiazza which
ftands before the Church, I efpyed
upon the very out corner of the,
wall of the Church fas you come
out of the Pallace ) four Porphiry
Statues of four.merchants embrace-
ing one another. Having en-
quired what thofe Statues werefet
for there , I was told by a grave
old gentleman of Venice, that thofe
whom thefe Statues reprefent, were
four merchants and grangers, who
brought hither molt of the Jewels
mentioned above in the Treafury :
and that afterwards poyfoning one
another, out of covetoufnefs, left
this State heir of all. Juft before
the Church ftand three tall mafts of
mips upon curioufly wrought Pe-
deftals of brafs, and each maft bear-
ing, upon great dayes, a ftatcly
flag and ftreamers.Thefe three mafts
fignify the three nobleft parts of
the Venetians dominions , towit
the Kingdoms of Cyprus ■> and of
Candy, aud the ftate of Venice. In
this Fiazza I found alwaies a world
R r 4. • of
2?« big h
Steeple.
404 The Voyage
of ftrangers perpetually walking
and talking of bargains &traffiek,
as Greeks, Armenians, Albanians,
Slavonians, Polonians, Jewes, and
even Turks themfdves i all in their
feveral habits, but all confpiring
in this one thing, to fell dear, and
buy cheap. Here alfo they have
every night in fummer, a world
of Moniibankj, Ciarlatani, and fuch
ftuflf,w ho together with their drudg-
es and remedies 3 ftrive to pleafe
the people with their little come-
dies, puppet playes, fongs, mufick,
fiories, and fuch like bufifonnerie.Its
firange to fee how they find
dayly either new fooling, or new
fools, not only to hear them, but
even they throw them money too
for fuch poor contentments. In
this Tiazza alfo ftands the C*rn-
f anile, or high fteeple of Venice ,
diftant fome fifty paces from the
Church of S. Mark. Its built forty
foot fquare on all fides, and two
hundred and thirty fix high. The
top of it is covered with gilt tiles,
which in a Sunfhine day, appear
glorioufiy afar olf. The founda-
tion
O f Italy 405;
tion of it is almoft as deep under-
ground , as the top of it is high-
above ground i a wonder, if you
confider that it ftands in Venice*
From the top of this Campanile we
had a perfect view of Venice under
us,and of all its neighboring Iflands,,
Forts, Seas, and Towns about it j as.
alfo of the outiide of S. Markj
Church, its Frontifpice, its Cupolas,
and the four horfes of brafs gilt
which ftand over the Frontifpice.
Thefe horfes came out of the ihop,.
not out of the (table of Lifippus a
famous ftatuary in Greece-, and were
given to Nero by Tiridatcs King of
Armenia. They were carryed by
Cmjianiin the great from Rometa
Conjiantinople i and from thence,
they were tranfported hither. In
fine, from the top of this iteeple,
we faw the compais of the great
Arterial of Venice, which looked
like a. little town in our fight.
Indeed foreie make it three miles,
about '-> but I cannot allow it fo
much. The fight of this Magazin.
of war afar of^ made us haften
down from the ileeple to go fee it.
nearer hand. Rr 5 9>
Hbt/rfe-
ttal.
The Voyage
9. Taking therefore a Gondola,
we went to the Arfenal, where
after the ordinary formalities of
leaving our fwords at the door, and
paying the Porters fees, we were ad-
mitted, and led through this great
(hop of Mars. Its fo well feated.
near the ^ea fide, and fo well built ,
that it might (erve the Venetian Se-
nators for a Caftle in time of dan-
ger: and in it there is a well of
fjrefh water not to be poyfoncd,
becaufe of two pieces of Vnicorns
horn fet faft in the bottom of it.
X-confcft, I never Taw any where
fuch Occonomic as is here cbferved.
Fifteen hundred men are dayly.
employed here, and duly payed
at the weeks end, according to their
feveral employments and works.
The cxpences of thefe workmen
amount to a thou fan d Ducats,cvery
day in the yeai : fo that they
snake aecompt that they fpen'd in
" this' Arfenal' four hundred & thirty
tboiifaud crowns a Veai f Enough
e4ty army
coriftentlfc yoVkmin'here
and that
very
O F Italy
very good too , but that it is
a littie mingled with water. WC
were led through all the vaft room 3
of this Magazin , rooms like vaft
Churches. In one of them I (kw
nothing but great oars for Gallies,
feven men going to one oar. la
another, nothing but vaft (terns.
In another, nothing but vaft nails
for Gallies and Ships. la another,
they were making nothing but Salt-
peeter for gunpowder. In another
they were catting great Cannons,
Morter pieces, and Chambers. In a-
nother they had nothing but a pair
of vaft Scales to weigh Cannons
with. In another Mafts for Gallyes
and uY'ps of a prodigious greatnels
and length •, and yet of fucha rare
timber, that one filliping upon
one end of them, you here i{
eafily at the other end, by apply-
ing your ear to it. Some of
thefe malts are worth fourlcore
pounds. In other vaft- rooms I
law ftore of Cannons of all fizes
both for Ships and Gallyes : where
alfo I faw fomc Turkilh Cannons
v, ith words upon them in the Turk*
m
4o9 The Voyage
i'fli Language. There I faw alfo
one Cannon fliootwig three mots
at once : another five * one great
Cannon found buryed inCandyhxW
of gold medals : the great Cannons
caft here while Henry the III of
France dined in this Arfenal. They
had heretofore a prodigious quan-
tity of Cannons here, but now thefe
rooms are much emptyed by
reafonof this war with the Turks,
In other great rooms I faw huge
heaps of Cannon bullets of all fizes,
with fome Enfigns won over the
Turks. Then mounting up into the
Chambers above, I faw in two vaft
rooms, arms foi fifty thoufand men.
In another,arms for twelve Gallies i
In another, arms for fifty Gallies.
Here alfo I faw the fuit of armour
f>f Seanderbeg : that of the Doge
Xani '•> the Lanterne of Von John of
Aufirias fhip in the battle of: Lepan-
to : the Lanterne of a Turkifh Gaily:
the armour of Bajamante Tbeopoli &
his complices, with one arm only :
fome arms taken from the Turks
in the battle of Lepanto: other arms
taken from the Gtnuefi-, a great
Crofsbow
Of Italy $c^
Crofsbow, (hooting vait arrows of
iron above rive quarters long : an
invention of great ufe before Guns
were found out. A Cannon bullet
with four long irons, like the tops
of halbards , which flint up clofc
into it when you put it into the
Cannen, but open again of them-
felves as fcon as the bullet is out
of the Cannons mouthy & fo fpread-
ing into four parts , cut all they
meet, with Grange fury: a dange-
rous invention in Sea battles, to
fpoil cordage and tackling. Here
alfo they (hew us the defcription of
the town and fort of Clijfa, and
how it was taken by the Venetians
fome twenty years ago. Then de-
fending from thence, we went to
fee the places, where they make
new Gallies,. and mend old ones.
There I found a vail: fquare Court
three hundred paces broad in every
fquare and full of valt penthoufes
capable of holding in them, Gal I yes
of fifty paces long a piece. In
the midlt of this Court is a vail
fquare pond of water, let in from
the Sea, where the new Gallyes are.
tryed »
410 The Voyage
tryed*, and the old ones are let
into the Arfenal to be mended and
ridged a new. Here Ifaw a world
of Gallyes, and a world of men
working about them moft bufily.
There were heretofore divers of
thefc great Courts full of Gall yes,
but now they are much exhaust-
ed 5 the Gallyes being abroad in
war. Hence it is obferved that
this Arfenal, before thefe wars,
could arm 2®o Gallyes, and two
hundred thoufand men. Here it
was thst they made a Gaily, and
fet her out at Sea while Henry the
III dined here in the Arfenal i
which made that King fay then,that
he would give three of his beft
towns in France ( except his Parla-
ment towns/ for fuch an. Arfenal.
Indeed the A rfenals of Pari*, Gf»tt.z,
Zuric^ Naples. tkGeneva^ feemed to
me to be little Gunfmiths Shops, in
companfn,, of this. They were
then making here two new Galleajfer
C when- I was uft there ) of vail
bulk and txj .c, r In fine I faw
here the old Bmcntoro > & prefently
after the new Bucentcro. This laft
is
O F Italy. ^ri
is the Galley of ftate, of the Doge,
when he goeth forth upon the
Afcenfion - cfey accompanyed with
the Senate,~to efpoufe the Sea as
they call it here. This is a noble
Gaily all gilt without, and wain-
fcotted round about the deck-,"with
gilt feats. There runs a partition
of wood quite along the Deck of
the Gaily, with feats on both fides
and with a low open roof of wood,
to let in air, and yet keep off
the Sun •> and all this is gilt and
painted, and capable of five hun-
dred Senators, who in their fcarlet
robes , wart upon the Do^e mat
day. The Doge fits in the Pxppe,
in a Chair or" State, with the Popes
Nunc ?d on one hand' of him, and
the Patriarch of Vttice or the other,
and a plate for "mufrck behind
them. The Haves are all under hat-
ches , and not (cen at all : but
their oars , ( t vvenry on r-ach fide)
move all at once like great wings
which make the Bucmtofo move
moll mjcftically. And this is all,
that I can remember in this Arfenal
except the cellar of wine, and the
great
I
412 The Voyage
great rooms , ( as I came out )
where women only are employed
in mending old faylsj and men
(apart ) in making great cables :
and indeed thole vaft Anchors
which lye near the wooden bridge
here at the entrance, ftand in need
of cables of thegreatelt iize.
The Af-* lq«. I happened to be at Venice
fenfa. thrice, at the great Sea Triumph,
or feaft of the Afcenllon, which was
performed thus. About our eight
in the morning, the Senators in
their Scarlet robes, meet at the
"Doges Pallace', and there taking him
up, they walk with him proceilio-
nally unto the flioar, where the Bu-
eentoro lyes waiting th"irii the
Popes Nuncio being upon his right
hand, and the Patriarch of Venice
on his left hand. Then afcending
into the Bucentoro, by a hand fume
bridge thrown out to the (hoar,
the Doge takes his place, & the Sena-
tors fit round about the Gaily as
they can, to the number of two
• or three hundred. The Senate being
placed, the anchor is weighed, and
the flaves being warned by the
Capitains
O f Italy 413
Capitains whittle and the found of
trumpets , begin to (hike all at
once with their oars and to make
the Bucentoro march as gravely upon
the water, asiffhealfo went upon
cioppini. Thus they fteer for two
miles upon the Laguna, while the
mufick plays, and lings Ep'ubala-
miums all the way long, and makes
Neptune jealous to hear Hymen
called upon in his Dominions.
Round about the Bucentoro flock
a world of Fiottas& Gondolas-, richly
covered over head with fumptuous
Canopies of filks and rich (tufts, and
rowed by watermen in rich liveries,
as well as the Trumpeters.Thus for-
rain EmbafTadors, divers noblemen
of the country ,and (hangers of con-
dition wait upon the Doges Gaily all
the way long, both coming and
going. At laft the Doge being arri-
ved at the appointed place, throws
a Ring into the Sea, without any
other ceremony, than by faying :
Uefponfamus *<?, Mare* in fignurnptr-
fetui dominii . Weefpouje thse* OSea,
in Tefiimony of our perpetual dim'mion
over thee : and fo returns to the
Church
414 The Voyage
Church of S. Nicolas in Lio(an Ijtand
hard by ) where he affifts at high
Mais with the Senate. This done,
he returns home again in the
fameftatej and invites thofe that
accompanyed him in his Gaily, to
dinner in his pallace : the prepara-
tives of which dinner we faw before
the Doge was got home. This ce-
remony of marrying the Sea, as
they call it, is ancient: and per-
formed yearly in memory of. the
grant of Pope Alexander the III,
who being reftored by the Venetians
unto his Seat again, granted them
power over the Adriatick Sea, as
a man hath power over his wife >
and the Venetians to keep this
pofTeflion , make every year this
watery Cavakata. I confefs, the
fight is ftately, and a Poet would
prefently conceive , that Neptune
himfelf were going to be marryed
to forne Nereide.
ii. Having (een this Ceremony
thtCorfo in the morning, we went after
atMura - dinner to fee the Evening Cer/o at
Murano, where we faw thofe fine
Gondola* and Piottat, which we had
feen
O F I/TAL Y 415
feen waiting upon the Tfoge'm the
morning , now rowing in fiate up
and down the great Canak ok Mu-
ratio to the found of Trumpets - , and
with all the force of the brawny
watermen that row them. Some-
times meeting too thick in the
arches of the wooden bridge here,
J they crack one anothers Gondolas ',
break one anothers oars, over-
turn ther boatmen, and are ftopt
for an hour together without being
able to untangle.Embanadors them-
felves of forraign Princes appear
in Gorfo this evening with all their
bravery (five or 'fix Gondolas all in
one livery) as well as all the gallants
arid gentry of Venice^ who appear
here this evening at Corfo.
1 2. The next morning no foon-
er appeared , but new fights ap-
peared too, and now upon land,
and the Scene was S. Mar\s place,
where the Fair opening this day,
and laftingfor ten dayes, drew all
the galhnrsof Venice to come, and
behold all the gallantry and riches
that either domeftick, or torreign
merchants could fet forth to fail.
But
I
'the Fa'r»
416 The Voyage
But the mod part of the young
Ladyes that came to fee the Fair,
came in an odddrefs, with a falfe
nofe, and a little beard of black
wool, difguifing their mouth and
nofe i fo that they could fee all
the Fair , and be known to no
body. Thus they go often to mar-
riages, and other affemblies when
they have no mind to be known.
13. Having thus feen "thefe fore-
S.Gtwges faid fights, we went on with vi-
fiting the other things in the town,
and one day we went to the Ifland
of S. George Mzjor^ where we law a
itately Monaftery, Church, Cloifter,
& Garden, which take up this whole
Ifland. The Church is one of the
beft in Venice^ and built by Falla-
dio the famous Architect. In the
Church I was fhewn the great
filver Lamp, as great as two men
could carry. In a pillar of marble
ltanding over a fide Altar I was
fhewn the picture of a Crucifix,
which was difcovered, at the po-
licing of this ftone, to have been
naturally in the Vein of the mar-
ble. In the Refectory , I fa w an ad -
mirable
Of Italy 417
mirable picture of the fupper of
Cana in GaliUa , made by Guido
Rbeni. I vifited itoften, and could
never fatiate my eyes wimfuch a
rare piece. It takes up the whole
end of the great Refectory.
14. From thence we rowed to
the pallace of Proctcratore Nam web The palace
ftands in an Ifland beyond S.Geergej. |£ r B /Cj
The Pallace is richly furnifned„;.
with the true pictures of many mo-
dern Princes and Ladies of France,
England^nd Germany. This pallace,
hath one ftran^e thing belong-
ing to it, beyond the pallaces of
Venice: towit a neat garden, for
gardens in Venice^ areas wonderful
things, as Coaches: and I cannot
remember that looking upon the
whole City from the top of the
high fteeple, I faw two places where
there were any green trees. But
the belt thing that 1 (aw here, was
the Procuratore N,mi himfelf, the
grcateft Ornament of the Venetian
Senate, whofe learned pen hath
already given us an excellent hiltory
of Venice.
1 5. From hence we walked to Tht cap»*
the cins -
418 The Voyage
the CapuciMs convent which is in the
fame Ifland , and Church neatly
built, and far above the rate
of Capnc'ms > but it was a vow of
the Senate in time of the plague *
and they regarded more, in build'
ing it, their own honour than the
UMdouna Capucins Simplicity.
di Salute 16, From hence returning again
towards the town we (leered our
Gondola to the Church of Madonna
di Salute, a new round Church ,
vowed by the State in another
plague time, and likely to be one
of the fineft churches in Venice when
it (hall be ended. In the Sacrifty I
faw a rare pi&ure of a feaft by tin-
tor et, and others in the roof by
litian.
17. From hence we went to the
La Gm7« Church of the Cano Regulars,called
La Caritajn whofe Mon artery Pope '
Alexander the 1 1 1, lay hid privately
like a poor Chaplain of this Church,
unknown to the very fathers of-
this place, till at laft he was dis-
covered by a devout Pilgrim, who
having feen him often in 'Rome t
■ and hearing him fay mate here,
difcovcred
Of It alt 419
difcovered him to the Senate, and
Co he was both acknowledged by
the Senate, and defended by them,
as we faid above. Over the entrance
of the Quire, is Teen the pi&ure of
Alexander the III receiving the
Emperour Frederick^ to the killing
of his feet, by the means of the
Doge of Venice , who ftands by.
Here's alfo a good picture of our
Saviours raifing up Lazarus again
to life : its of the hand of Bajfan.
1 8. An o*her time I went to the ss.Gio -
Dominicans church,calledS.Gwztf»we vanne ®
& Faulo where I found among Pauht •
the tombfiones, that of the Lord
Henry Aubigni ( fecond brother to
the Duke of Lenox and Richmond )
who dyed here in his travels. Be-
fore the door of this Church
ftands the E<jucjlris itatue in brafs
gui^t ofBartolomeo Coleone Bargamenfe
a great C6mander,to whom ( as the
words bear,e& militate imperium opti-
me giftum)- the Senate decreed this
flattie to be erected. The Taberna-
cle and altar are very (lately. The
Chappel o(S.Hiacintb,8c the miracles
of
4-20 The Voyage
of this Saint are of the hand ofBaffan
dcPalmarino. TheMartyrdo oiSdohn
& Vaul is a Mafterpiece of the hand
of Titian. The convent alfo of S.
John and Fattl is one of the molt
iiately ones in Italy. The r«fed:ory
is famous for pamting.
S.Sahn- 19- The Church of S.Sahatore
tore. is a fair Church and well adorned
with neat tombs of divers Vogzs
and great perfons. Upon the back
of the High Altar is feen a picture
of the Transfiguration, of the hand
of litian. Upon anAltaronthc
right hand of the wall is api&ure
of the Annunciation, under which
Titian wrote thefe words, 7'itianiis
ficitjfccir, to alTure men by this
double affirmative, that it was a
good piece, worth his twice own-
ing. There's another picture of
the Lift Supper, made by Tt\ims
Matter. Upon the EpHile fide of
the High Altar ftand$ a little
Chappel, over whoje i^lfar is the
tombcf S. Theodoras with his body
in it. He is one of the Patrons of
, , this town.
toil.' 20. In the Church o(S. Cbryfo-
Of Italy
4»*
ftome I faw upon a fide Altar on
the left hand, the itatues in ilonc
of our Saviour and his twelve A-
pohMes , neatly cut by TuUm Lom~
bardus, whofe rare ftatues adorn al-
fo S. Antonies tomb at Padua, His
ftatues are eafily known by the
neat hands.
2 1. In the Church of the Apoftoli
I fa w a rare picture of S. Lucie, but
now fome what old.
22. In the Church of the Jefuits
I faw the tomb of S. Barbara Vir-
gin and Martyr.
23. In the Eomo(the Cathedral
of Venice, but (landing much out 2 ^ 2? "*»
of the way) I faw little confide-
rable but the tomb of S. Lxurzntius
Jufiimanus, a holy man , a great
Preacher, and the firft Patriarch
•of Venice: the Patriarchal feat of
Grado, being removed hither in his
time-
24. I faw alfo the Church of
S. Jacomo , the firft Church that s.ijiomt
was built in Venice, and built
twelve hundred years ago in the
infancy of Venice, as an old in-
fcription here told me. Here are
S f • fome
lie
Greeks
Church,
422 The Voyage
fome good pictures of Lanfrancus,
and Marcus litianus , old Titian*
nephew and fchollar.
2$. And being in Venice upon
S. Georges day ( the 23. of April )
we went to the Greek Church , I
mean to the Greek fchifmaticks
Church, which is dedicated to God
in honour of S> George, and there-
fore this day was one of their great-
eft folemnitics. Their Ceremonies
and Service differed little from the
Catholicks Greeks : and if anyone
dellre to know their tenents, and
how near they come to the Roman
Catholicks, let him read a book in
a thin folio Printed at Witiemlerg
an : 1584. under this title, Atta &
[crista Iheohgbrum Wittembergcnfium
& Hieremis Patriarch*.
Ikejews 2 £ vve went after dinner one Sa-
turday to fee the Jews Synagogue.
Among other things I heard here a
Rabbin make a Homily to his flock.
He looked like a French Minirter, ;
or Puritanical Lecturer, in a fliort
cloak and hat. The (hilling through 1
the nofe made all the editica- j
tion that. I faw in it: It was in
Italian
Mnrano*
OpItalt 4.23
Italia??, but the coldeft difcourfc
that I ever heard in any language*
Indeed it was their Sabbath day > &
they eat no other meat that day, but
cold meat.
•7. An other day we went to tie €Ufi
Mura??o again to fee the glaft hufes at
houTes which furnifh almoft all £«-
rope with drinking glafTes, & all our
Ladies cabinets with looking glafTes.
They utter here forth two hundred
thoufand crowns worth a year of
this britle ware* and they feem
to have taken meafure of every
nations belly and humour, to fit
them with drinking glafTes accor-
dingly : For the High Dutch, they
have high glaffts, called Flutes, a
full yard long , which a man can*
not drink up" alone except his
man, or Tome other, hold up the
foot of this more than two hand*
ed glafs. For the Englifh that
love toafts with their drink, they
have curious Tankards of thick
Chryftal glafs, juft like our filver
tankards. For the Italians that love
to drink leifurely, they have glafTes
that are almdft-as large and flat
SC 2 as
ihtjhtyi
424 The Voyage
as filver plates, and almoft as un-
eafie to drink out of. And fo for
other nations. In one (hop they
were making a fet of glaftes for
the Emperor, of five crowns every
glafs : They were drinking glafTes
with high covers made like fpread
eagles, and finely gilt. Sometimes
lo (hew their art, they make
here pretty things. One made
a (hip in glafs, with all her tack-
lings, guns, maits, fails,& ftreamers.
An other made an organ in glafs
three cubits high, fo juftly contri-
ved, that by blowing into it, and
touching the ftops it founded mu-
fically. A third made a perfect
Caftle, with all its fortifications,
Ramparts, Cannons, Centry fcioufes,
& Gates.HerealfoI faw them make
thofe vaft Looking glafTes, whofe
britlenefs fheweth Ladies them-
felves,more than their reflecftio doth.
In fine, in Murano you fee the Pallace
of Signer Camillo Trevifano with the
rare garden&fountains a la Romans.
28. After this we went up
and down the Town of Venice
fometimes a foot, to fee better the
Shops
O f Italy 425
(hops, as thofe of filks, cloths of
gold, of books j and the Apothe-
caries ihops,where I faw them make
their famous Treacle : fometimes in
a Gondola, to view over and over
again, the Canale Grande, and the
brave pallaces which hemm it hi
on both fides : fometimes entring,
into the beft of thofe pallaces, to
fee their rich furniture and contri- £%« p*/.
vances. The beft are, of JnJHniani,Uees.
Mocenigo, Grima.ni, Priuli, Contari-
ni, Fofcoli, Loredano,. Gujfoni, and
Cornaro:
29. Then I enquired what lear-
ned men had adorned Venice, and The Lear -
I found thefe to have been the »«<* "»"••.
chief, hautmiim Jujlinianut, Hermj-
laus Barbarufy Petrus Btmbus, Aloy-
fins Lippomanus, Paulus Partita, Bap'
tifta Egnatius, Ludovicus Voice, Paa-
lus Manutius, with divers others.
I faw (bme years ago the noble
and ingenious Lwe^«o,whofe witty
books make him famous overall,
the Academies of Italy and Europe.
As alfo the Proem Aton Nani whofe.
excellent Hiftory hath got him mv
mortal fame.
8f*3 30. Heres
I
iht Aca-
demy of
wits.
iheWflo
ti'UKSm
fhsJXe-
fetls of
Venice.
Vadux,
426 The Voyage
30. Heresan Academy of wits cal-
led Incogniti&nd for their arms,they
have the river NHhs with this met-
to i Incognito ■, etpnr noto'. unknown,
and yet famous.
He that defires to know the
hiftory of Venice^ let him read An-
drea. Morafi?ii,Paolo Paruta, Sabeilico,
Bernardino Tomafino , Corido, and
Nani.
Having thus feen all Venice, over
and over again, in a months flay
there, I was moft willing to leave
itj having found it true of Venice,
what Socrates faid of Athens, that
it was meiior m?retrix, quam uxor > a
fine town for a fourteenight j but
not to dwell in alwaies; and this
by reafbn of fome /linking chan-
nels, bad cellars for wine» worfe
water > and the moift air of the Sea
not the moft wbolfome > iearcity
of earth even to bury their dead in >
and little fewel for firing. So that
finding the four elements wanting
here in their purity , I was willing
to leave thefe polifhed Hollanders ,
and return to Padua.
Padua is the fegond town of the
Venetian
Of* Italy 427
Venetian ftate , though once the
Mother of Venice, Its old enough-
to be mother of Rome it felf-, ha-
ving been built by Antenor, whofe
Tomb is yet feen here. The Town ■
is very great , and fuller of good
houfes, than of men of condition :
tyranny, and two frequent murthers
having much depopulated it , in
point of nobility. It Hands in the
Marca Trevigiana. The walls about
it are ftrong, and backt up with
fine ramparts. It lies near the
Euganian Hills, in a fertile foyl ,
and plain, which makes the proverb
fay: BAogna la grajfa, mi Padua la
pajfa. Its famous for the ftudy of
Phyfick , as many of our thrice
worthy Phyficians in England can,
teftify. The chief things I obferved
in it are thefe.
1. Amenor's Tomb with Gotic\f *££"**
letters upon it : which makes me
doubt whether this tomb be fo an-
cient as they make it.
2. The publick fchools called here
II Bue , or Oxe '■> what if the firft
Readers here came from Oxford ,
as they did to the Univerfity of ?a-
via, SC 4. 3, The
S. A»t»'
nits
Qburth,
428 The Voyage
3. The Phyfick garden, to acquaint
the Students in Phyfick, with the
nature of fimples.
4. The Church of S. Anto*y of
Fadua, whofc body lies in the open
Chappel on the left hand > and this
Chappelis adorned with curious fi«
gures of white marble reprelemting
the chief actions of this Saints; life.
Under the Altar repofeth his bodyj
and before it hang fome 27 great
Lamps of Clver , or lllver gilt.
Over againft this Chappel, (lands
juft fuch an other open Chappel*
called the Chappel of San Felice,
which is rarely painted by famous
GiettOy who made the Campanile of
Florence. In a iide Chappel on the
right hand a is the tomb of brave
Gatta Mela, whole true name was
Erafmo di Narm,o!iVi\\om more by&
by .The Tomb of Alexander Contxreno
General of the Venetians, and it is
one of the beft cut tombs Ihave
feen; Its fattened to a fide pillar.
The Quire of this Church is all of
inlaid wood. In theCloifter of the
Convent are feen many tombs of
teamed- men : and in that quarter
of
. Op Italy 429
of the cloifter, which lies upon
the Church, Lfound written upon,
a black marble ftone thefe words:
Interior a c Thom£ Howardi Comitis A"
rondelia'. The bowels of the Earl of
Arondel , late Lord Marftial of
England. No wonder if his bowels
be enchafed in marble afters his
death, who in his life time, loved
marbles- con todaijus emranias, with>
his whole bowels. His Marmora A*
ronddiana^commmtid up5 by learned;
Mt.Sddenfoew this fufficiently.This
great man died here in Padua> and
yet in a mannerat home •, becaufe
he had made Italy familiar to him
while he lived at home.
5. Going out of this Church I
faw the Eynejlris ftatue of Gatta*
Mela, the Venetians General, whofe
Tomb I faw even now in the
Church. He was nicknamed Gatta±
becaufe of his watchfulnefs, in car-
rying bufinefsv
6, The Church of S. Juftina iss. /«/?;.]
one of the fineft Churches of. Italy>Ms\churcfr
and no wonder, feeing its architect ® m °n<*"
m&Vkhm Under thvvHigh Altar P er ?'
of this .Churchy lies: buried, th»
bod y,
430 The Votagi
body of S. Jufiina. The fine Cup**
las > the curious pavement of red &
black marble jth erich High Altar all
"/ of pktrt commeffe i the curious feats
in the Quire, with the hiftories of the
old and new Teftament cut in wood
in them j the fine picture at the
end of the Quire over the Abbots
^ Seat , containing the Martyrdom
^ of S. Juftina, by the hand of Paolo
Veronejii the tomb of S. Luke the
Evangelilt, & that of S. Matthias >
the Well, full of Relicks v and the
Tomb of S' PrcfiocbimHf S. Peter's
difciple, and firlt Biihop of Padua ,
do all make this Church very con-
fiderable. Before this Church, and
fclonafiery, lies the Campo Sant» y
and a fair field where they keep
monthly a tnercato franco., and where
the evening Corfo is kept, by Ladies
and noblemen in their Coaches iii
fummer.
7. The Monaftery here is aKo one
of the faired in Italy, and the fe*
cond of that Order. The painted
cloifter, the neat Library, and the
picture of S. JujHna in the A ; bats
Chamber, nude by Paolo Veronefe,
are
Of Italy 43*
are all worth your airiofity. The
Vomo is not fo well built as it is
endowed wkh rich prebendjries. A
hundred thoufand crowns a year
go to the maintenance of a hundred
Clergy men, and officers belonging
to it. The Prebends are 27, and or-
dinarily gentlemen.
28. Tne pallace of the Cap'itam
Grande is ftately without : here
(lands the curious Library.
9. The great Hall called here,2*'.?«o*
II Palagio di Ragione, is a vaft room H * Ux
1S0 paces long, and forty broad^
without pillars. It hath four great
doors to it, and over every door
the ftatue of a learned ?admn.Tb\$
Hall is alfo painted in the roof
withaftronomical figures rcprefent-
ing the influences of the Superior
bodies over the inferior. At one end
of it you fee a round ftone,with thele
words written about it, Lapps oppro*
brii^hefioneef difgrace^ upon which
whofoever will fit publickly, and
declare himfelf not to be folvendo x
cannot be clapt up in prifon for
debt. At the othe* end of this hall
itands JJvfs head in white marble,.
I
452 The Voyage
<nd'out of a little back door tthere,,
jpyning to the wall ©f this Hall ,
ftarids Livy's bufto in ftone, with:,
this Epitaph under it in old Gothic^
letters •, OJfa liti Livii Patavbii w
nins omnium mortaliumjudicio digni-,
cuJMs prope invitto calamo inv'idi Po-
pnHRomani rej geft<e coyifcribertntur.
$./*• *°- Tnc P* 1( ^ ur e °f tne Hi g h A1 "
gitjtmo* tar in the Auguftias Church, made
by Guido Rbeni y and that of S.
John Baptiji in the Sacrifty, of the
fame hand are both cxquifitly weH
done.
11. The mines of an old Amphi-
VJrnts. theater are feen hard by the Augnf-
tins Ghurch. Theres now a houfe
built upon the place, yet the Court
is oval mil, and carryes the name
of Arena. Mere they tilt, and ufe
other fports of Cavalry.
i2.In the Vominicnns Church there
is a very ftately high altar of Pietre
tommejft. Behind the Altar ( in
the Quire ) are the neat tombs of
the Carari, once Sjanors andPiinces
of ?adu a? till they were put eut by
the Venetians,
23.. Ib
S.Dtmi
wit,
O f Italy
43?
T3. In the Church of San Fran- s fran ^
etfco Grande I (aw a curious - Altar otce'jco,
white polilhed marble, which plea-
fed me very much,and the tombes of
Cavzlcante and Lonzolio. „ -r
14. In the little neat Church of so # C(W .
the OratoritiMiCzlkd the Church of tmria,
S. Ihonw of Canterbury, lyes buryedi
the Lady Katberine WmwhaU\
in a vault made for the nonce ,
and covered with a white marble
ftone- She was daughter to the
late Earl of Shrewsbury^ and wife
to the Noble and Vertuous Tbo-
mas WbitenbattEfquire. If you would
know more of her read here the
ingenious Epitaph written upon her
tomb, and made by her fad huf-
band, For my part, having had
the honour to fee her often in
her travels, I cannot but make ho-
nourab'e mention of her here in
mine *> She having fo much ho-
noured my profeflion of Travelling
by her generous humour of Travell-
ing. She was as nobly born astbt-
boufe ^/Shrewsbury could make bet',
as comely, as. if Poets bad made her*
tier behaviour was fuch^ that if Jhe
bail
The 4c»-
demies of
nuits
2he le am-
id Men.
434 The Voyage
bad not been noble by birth, Jht would
have puffed for fuch by her carriage*
Her good qualities were f) many, that
if they had been taken in pieces, they
Vfruld have m x de fever al rvomm Noble,
and Noble ye men happy. She was wife
beyond her yeares *» Jiout aho-ve her
fix i and worhy to have found! in the
wrld all things bat :r than fh<e did y
except her Pi rents and Husband- Her
onelyfjult was that, which wouidhave
made up other Ltdiespraifes, ton much
courage'ywh-ch befell her with the name
of la! bet. But wbilfi her finely courage
haled her.on to journeys above herjex
andf'rceihav'inzfeenF landers, F ranee,
avd Italy, accompanyed by her noble
Husband, and ahandfome train in
her return bac\ , like a tall pip ,
coming laden home and framhte iwith
precious acqttijitions of mind, fhe fun\e
alm>ji in tbf havm, and, alas ! Dyed.
1 5. Here are two Academies of
wits \ the one called Gli Ricoverati :
the other, Gli Infiammati?
The molt famous men of Padua
for learning , were thefe, Livy,
Apponim-i Paulas the Jyr\ftauj$t ,
&per<mt.
Of Italy. 435
Spero-ne Speroni,Antonius ^ueremhuT^
Jacobus Zabarella : and Tinan the fa-
mous Painter.
He that defircs to know the?*'^*-
Hiftory or P^a; , let him read
Angilo Portinan delt felicita.de di
Padua : Antonio Riccobonoy de.Gynt-
nafio Patavino, & de ejus pr<echrid
dodoribus : as aXo the book called
GT Origini di Padua.
Having thus feen Padua r, we
fleered towards Milan again , to
make the compleat gyro of Italy.
The firft daies journey was ^yj ce „ zl ,i
ViceHza, a fine town belonging to
the Venetians, and (landing upon
the two rivers of Bacbilvw , and
Rerone. Here we law , the neat
Townhoufe and large piizza : the
houfe and hue garden of Count
Valmerana, with the curious Laby-
rinth in the gardemthe Arcus 7 riuni-
phalis made by Pahdio ac the
townes end letting you into a fair
field called the Champa Marzo , ^ t be*-
where Ladies and Cavaiiers,in great uu
ftore y meet at the Crfo in their
coaches every fumm.r evening :
the admirable Theater for playes
and
%%6 The Voyage
OperasM Was madealfo by rare Palla-
dio^nd is capable 'of three thou-
land people, who may all fir., and
fee with conveniency. The: fine
pallaces here, and thofe full of peo-
ple of condition.
The Aw- Here's an Academy of wits called
wZ GVOlympici,
ibt hifioM He that defires to know the
rUns, Hiltory of Vicenza, let him read
lacovno Marzari) and Alfinfo Loj'chi.
From VwnzaVK went to Vero-
na^ called Verona la Mobile, be long-
ing to the Venetians alio. It f Unds
Verona, in excellent air , and no man
ever, faw ;it but liked it- Its water-
ed with the river Addefis , which
coming out of Germany , runns by
'irmt and fo to Verona. Hence this
town abounds with good provi lion,
wines, and rich marchants : which
makes me of opinion , that Vera--
na would be a better fummcr town
for Grangers to live in , than Ya-
dua. The things that I faw- here,
, where thefe:The tkee C*/r/e.r, which
with the new bulwarks make this
town able to defend it felf agairtft a-?
ny enemy,.
2 S
O^ Italy 437
2. The Cathedral or Votno, an-
cient rather than flately. In it is
buryed Pope Lucius the HI, with
this ingenious Epitaph upon his
tomb :
Luca dedit lucem tibi,Luti % ?onu{icatum
Qfti*, Pfipatum R.ema, Venna mori.
Into Verona dedit tibi Lucis gauditt, Komtt
Exilium, turns Ofiia 3 Luca mori.
3. The famous tomb of the Signori
della Scala, who once were Matters
here , and from whom Jofep h and
Julius Scaliger pretend to have come.
This tomb is feen from the ftreet,
and is much efteemed for its height
and ftrudrure.
4. In the Monastery of S. George
the rare picture of S. George made
by Paelo Veronefe, for which the late
Lord MarJhalofEnglandoffexcd two
thoufand pifiols.
5. The tire dmphitheater >bui\t at fa Am-
I firtt by the Conful Flaminius , and phitheater
rapaircd llnce by the townefmen £
and now the moil entire amphuht- \. ;
ater in Europe.
Here's alfo an Academy of wits_, .
called Gli Vbil^rmonicv.
demy of
The fkmoufeii men for learning wits
438 The Voyage
here , were thefe : Zeno Veronenfu,
J d " rn ~ an ancient Father and great Prea-
cher. Cornellm Nepos^ F:my tbe /c-
condjCaiuUm According to that,
Matua Virgilio gaudet^ Veron* Catullo.
Fracaftoms , Onu^br'm, Vanuinus ,
Vauhs JEmilwf the Hiftorian: Fran-
cefco Pona » Alojfim Novarinus v
and Paolo Veronefe , the ingenious
Painter,
Near Verona , upon the plains
before you come to the town ,
was fought a famous battle, where
C Marius defeated the Cimbers.
Near this town alfo was faught a
famous baitle between JbeodoricJ^
and Odoacer-, where the latter was
defeated.
He that defires to know the
Zbt hift*. hiftory of Verona , let him read
rians. fortHo Saraina, Girolarno di Corte
Compendio dell' Ifioriadi Verona i» and
tbekntiqultates Veronenfes of Onn-
phritts TanuinuS'
Ptfibiira. fr° m Verona we went to firefcia
by the way of Tefcbiera and Vifen-
zano. Tefcbiera is a ftrong Fort be-
longing to the Venetians, and
guarded
Of Italy ^9
guarded by a conftant garrifon. It
I ftands upon the Lago di Garda, La- Lago dt
cusBenacus anciently, and isalmoft Gar * a *
- furrounded byits Chryftallin waters.
Its a mod Regular Fortification, with
rive B-iftions, and high Ramparts,
which cover the whole town.
Viftnzano is a little town upon £>if enta .
the Lake of Gar da alfo. Here they no,
have excellent rifti , and wine i
that is, rare Carpiom , and muf~
catello) which they call Vino Santo,
From hence after dinner, we Brejcia.
arrived betimes at Brefcia^ another
ftrong town of the Venetians. We
faw here the Caftletfhe town houfe i
neat Churches > the ramparts and
walls ©f the town > the chryftallin
Brooks running through the ftreets y
and the (hops of the gunfmiths^fpe-p
daily that of famous Lazarino Com-
mmazzo,
The beft Hiftori ans of the Bnfclan The H!/»-
arTairs, is Qttavlo Rofli , in his book tor J'
called Memoria Brefciana.
From Brefiia I went once to
Crem^dc Btrgam^tw® ftrong townes
of the Venetians , and both iron- <>«»••
tiers to the State of Milan. The
fail
440
The Voyage
tergnmo.^ is ver y ftron g and famous for
nne linnen made here. The latter
is ftrong too , both by its Caftle ,
good walls, and its high lituation
upon a hill , which gives you a fair
profpe& into the Milanefe for twen-
ty or thirty miles. In the Church.
of the AugujUw lyes buryed Am-
brofius Gakpinus author of the ex.-
cellent LatinDiSi^r^which learn-
ed pajferatins hath fet out iince
with great additions. Itsin fix lan-
guages.
From Bergami I went to Milan r
one days journey. An other time
I went from Brefcia to Milan by
the way of Mantua 3 and Mir an-
dola.
Mantua belongs to a Soveraign
Duke, or Prince, of the houfe of
Gonfague. It ftands in the midft
of Marines which are nourished
by the river Mincius i. Co that
there's no coming to it but by
two long bridges ever the Lake.
And yet this town was taken
fome forty years ago : no town
being impregnable where an Affe
laden with gold can enter > or
where
Mantua,
Of Italy 44I
where faction keeps cne gate. For
about that time, the Emperors Ar»
my, by fecret intelligence, pre-
fenting it fclf before it , was Jet
in •, and lacked the town* At the
entrance of the town gates , they
obferve the falhion of many other
townes in Italy, to make Travel-
ers leave their piftols and carabins
at the gate where they enter ,
and pot lee them again till they
meet them at the other gate where
they go out ■■> giving them , for
all that, a e'mttafi^m or tittle
talley, whereof you keep one
piece , and the other is tyed to
your piftols , whereby you may
claimeand challenge them. This
is an ancient cuftcme in the Ro-
mans times, as I rind in Valerius
Maximus , who faith , it was the
practice of thofeof MarfeWes fthen
a Roman Colonic) ut bo/pitia fua, Ma ^im.
qticmadmodum advmientihus bumana U% t t.\u
fontjta ipfis ttttafint.PiS for Mantua it
felf, its well built, and full of good
houfes.Thc Dukes Palace was here-
tofore one of the richeft of Italy. I was
told that it had feaven changes of
hangings
The Dukes
Family*
His Reve-
nues.
His inter-
efi.
Cafal.
His
firengxh
442 T h e Voyage
hangings for every room in the
houie '■> befides a wqrld of rare
pictures, Statues, plate, ornaments,
cabinets , an Vnicornes horn , an
Organ oiAlahlajier '■> fix tables, each
one three foot long, the firft all
of enter auds , the fecond of Turky
(tones, the third of hyacinths, the
fourth of Sapbyrs, the fifth of
Amber , the fixth of Jafpar itone.
But the Imperialifts fwept all away.
The origin of the houie of Conji-
cut is from Germany. For a long
time they were onely Marquifes of
Mantua, till Charles the. V. made
them Dukes. The Revenues of this
Prince are about five hundred thou-
fand crownes. His Intereft fas
that of the other klTcr Princes of
Italy) is to joyn with the Wron-
ger of the two Nations France, or ;
Spsin. And he hath been often
forced to put now and then a
French garrifon, now and then a
Spanijh g.nrifm into his ftrong
town of Cafal, one of the (hong-
eit places I faw in all Italy : hiv-
ing an excellent Cittadd at one j
end of it *, a ftrong Caftle at theo-
ther
O f Italt 443
[other, and ftrong citches, walls,
and ramparts every where. In
fine, rhis Duke can raife, about
fifteen thoufand foot, and two thou-
sand horfe.
Of Mantua were thefe two ex-
cellent Latin Poets •, old Virgil, an
{modern Baptifta Mantnanus a Car-
melit.
He that defires to know the hi-
\ ftory of Mantua 3 let him read
Mario Aquicola.
From Mantua we went to Miran-
dola being invited thither by its
' wonderful name. It is a principality
far more ancient than great \ and
it is fo called , from three children
born here of a great Lady, at one
birth. The ftory as it is pretty ,
fo it is related by good authors, and
therefore I will give it you here, in
I the end of this my Italian journey ,
[as a fare well. And 'tis this. Cm-
Jiamius the Emperor, Ion of Con*
iftantin the great, had a daughter
called Euridit '■> who being grown
up in years, fell in love with
Manfred a Courtier of her Uncle
Conjlanihi^ a handfome well bred
young
Its team-
ed Men.
Its hiftory
Miratp
dola.
Franctf-
cus
Pius.
Leander.
Mbatus.
444- ^ HE Voyage
young gentleman. Manfred was
both Courtier enough , and wife
enough, to underftand this to be
no fmall honour > and therefore
embraced her affection with acor-
refponding flame. In a word they
meet often \ talk of it •, give mu-
tual promifes i make all the money
they can, and jewels, and flee away
fecretly. They come into Italy ,
land at Naples, from thence to %j-
venna » and atlaft pitch upon this
country where now Mirandola flands.
it was then a place overfpread with
thickets and underwoods, andfur-
nifhing fome pafUirage for (beep ,
and cottages for fhepherds. Here
then they chofe to live privately
'andconverfe with none but coun-
try fwains, and fhepherds. Blind
love whither doll thou hurrey
Princeflcs, to make them prefer
cottages before Courts > At b ft with
their money they buy land, and
Manfred grows foon to that au-
thority among his ntighborrs,that
they choofe him for their head i and .
rccurr unto him i'pon all occa-
fions for his adv:ce and protection :
In
Of It Ait 445
In the mean time ( having fo.
femnty marryed Kundk at his arri-
al in Italy ) (he brings him forth
hree fons at once , Tim* Fim »
md Papazzo 9 and Manfred grows
ar more coniiderable dayly in
thefe parts. At laft the Emperor
onfianiM coming into Italy upon
lis occafions, and being compli-
inented by all the feveral provin*
!es thereof, this Province among
he icft,chofe Manfred as their Em-
>affador to thefaid Emperor,to car-
fto him the tender of theirre-
pe&s and homage. Manfred ac-
epted of the employment, and car-
red himfelf fo gallantly in the
mbaffy, that the Emperor knight-
id him, and upon further tryal of
11s worth rayfed him to high fa-
vour. Manfred feeing the realities
- f the Emperor, thought it now
iigh time to discover himfelf unto
lim. Wherefore eafting himtelf
ne day at the Emperor's feet, and
egging his pardon, he difcovered
limfelf unto him, and told him
ns whole ftory , and adventures.
T t At
little
446 The Voyage
At firft the Emperor , was a 1
troubled > but finding fuch frccedom
"and gallantry in his carriage,°.,ming-
kd with" fuch humble ingenuity
in the confeflfon of his fauhlt i he
not only pardoned what was s part,
but pre Cent ly lent for Euriddi* and
her children to come to himn, and
live at Court with him. Tfmisdonc
he makes Mw/JviCouflt andd Mar«
fluis of a great part of thefe^ coun
tries, and gives him lieve too builc
towns and catiles there : annd foi
his arms gives him the black 1 Eagle
In fine, in memory of thee threj
children born fo wenderfullyy at on]
birth, he commands that thhechie
town
After
(hould
the
be called hMirandt
death of Conftfrantiuf
Manfred and his Lady returneed wit
great riches unto their old dvwellinj
place , and there began tcto buil<
Miranda, which in proceft cof timj
was called Mir andofa, This trurue /tor
if it look like a Romance, yc/ou mui
not wonder -> feeing Romancces noi
adayes, look like true ftoriess.
The Prince of Nlvcandoh I receivi
yearly fourfcore thoufand ccrownd
Th
Of Italy 447
The greateft ornament of this
[country ,was that famous Joanuesfi- 3^tUm
%ut Mirandulanm whofe life SMo-f™*^
^as Moor wrote, and having writ-
ten it ,lived it.
From MirandnU I ftruck ta
Tarma, and fo to Pwce»«<f, Lw£,and
Marigno, defcribed all above > and
atlaftto Milan again, where I had
been before, and where my giro, of
Italy ended,as now my Journey and
defcription doth. I taking here a
new rife from Milan, and croffing
I through Smjprland by the Lake of
I Ccnw, and over mount S. Godart,
came to Bajil. Where embarking
upon the Hhwe, I faw Strasbourg^
UrifaC) Sphe? fhilipbourg^Ofenhemy
Ceblentz*fJamerjlede,ff / 'orfnes- > FraHC-
\furt , Mayence ,' Cehn , VnJJeldorp ,
Skin^fconce, Ran, Weftl, Arnehem
and divers other Rhenifh townes,
Then having viewed Holland and
Flanders-,1 came at lalt to GalaU,zn&
fo home to my own Dear country
England, by the way of Dover.
FINIS,
a table:
OF THE NAMES
OE THE CHIEF TOWNES
x Contained in this; fecondpart*
m
,/~\Albano.
361 c*
306 Caeta.
2 £*
Atriida?.
2*59 Capua.
26*
Anconj.
3 5© Campania.
2^7
- Affifiimi.
32 I Carigliano ,
Riveu
1 Aveifa,
26$ 266
Cafel.
44 2
&
Catholica.
Ceravalle«
25*
• Baias.
2^7 Cefena.
35^
! Kergamo.
440 Crema*
43*
i Biecia,
43^ Cuma»
D.
K.
IDifenfano.
43?
Kingdome eff Na-
E*
X pies 207
Kingdomc of Cy-
Elifian fields.
a?8 prus. 373
r.
L.
facnzs.
556 LaLaguna. ^ 362
Fano.
351 Lacus Avernus.^02
Ferrari £
357 Lago di garda.^9
EolignL f
321 Lorefo. ^^ 322
forli.
555
formiar.
a*2 M.
BF offa Nova*
25?
FarfcatU
3 07 Macerata. <„ 322
fundi.
260 Mantua. v. 440
Marino. 459
€*
Minturna 266
Mirandola. 443
Sandulfd>
307 Mola. 262
Grotta dell
Cane. Mons Mafficus. 267
2J»
Monte Falco. 321
(Grotta di Pofilipo Monte Garo. 267
afo
Murano. 423
N.
Naples.. 269
Narni, 3 1 8.
Padna
Pal ma Nova
PaufilipusMt.
Peperno.
Pefaro.
Pefchiera.
Puzzolo. «-^
R.
Recanata.^
Rimini. / „.-■
Rome.
Ruigo,
Rubicon, Ri v.
Scnegallia.
Spoleto.
5i9
Sulphatara.
295
426 T.
' 375
29oTaracina.
25>
259Terni. i^
319
352 Tyber^RLv. /^
318
438Tivoli. -
315
296 Tolcntino^dx^
321
Tres Tabernse*
259
V.
322
354 Veletri. ./*•'
259
3.&C Venice. ,-■■' 363 &c.
|6i Verona v :
436
355 Vefuvius, Mtt
284
ViaAppia*-'-'
261
ViaFlaminiaA,
•317
Vicenza*
435
55 1
SPECIAL
93-6
)8G3
THE GETTY CBfTER
tfc'