The Complete Pocket-guide to Europe  

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The Complete Pocket-guide to Europe (1868) is a travel guide of Europe by Edmund Clarence Stedman edited by Thomas Lathrop Stedman. There were several editions at least until 1913.

Full text of a 1913 edition

THE COMPLETE POCKET-GUIDE TO EUROPE

BY

EDMUND C. STEDMAN

EDITED BY

THOMAS L. STEDMAN

NEW YORK

[LLIAM R. JENKINS CO. Sixth Ave. at 48th St.

LONDON

BAILLIEPtE, TIXDALL & COX

8 Henpietta Street, Stkand

1913

Copyright, 1868, 1899, 1905, by William R. Jenkins

Copyriglit, 1907, 1908, 1910, 1913 by William R. Jenkins Company

AU rights reserved

PRINTED BY THE

i Press of William R. Jenkins Co. ^, ^ New York

©CI.A350i41

K^ /

NOTE BY THE EDITORS

'" ^IS book has been for many years before

the public, and has been thoroughly tested

.. increasing use among travellers through the

-^rtions of Europe generally covered in a single

~^ ar. It resulted from observation of the trials ^^adergone by those equipped with the larger and more cumbrous handbool^s. The Pocket Guide was devised by Edmund Clarence Sted- man because he learned by personal experience ^hat such a work was sorely needed, and no one else undertook this practical service, j^^e ends desired were : 1. Fuller and better . .r^^ged details of all points of interest, fai'^^ i^otels, currency, etc., than are given in man^* ^^g, of greater proportions. 2. Legible type , ^qq^ maps. 3. A real pocket guide, so comp:?^ j^g to be carried in a man's coat or hip-pocket, oi ^i^ a woman's shopping-bag or muff.

The work has been carefully revised from year to year, and with the present revision has been entirely reset from new type, and new maps and other improvements have been added : the volume, however, has been rigidly kept within its original size. It is believed that the Pocket Guide is as near what it clai^^^^^^ be as editorial diligence can make it, a^;^ ^1^^^

" it now, more than ever, will add to ^|jg comfort of travellers from our own and o^^'^^j. Engli<?h speaking countries. 'jhe Editoe? '

ABBREVIAIIONS.

M. . . Mile, or miles, ft. ... Feet

in Inches.

sq. . . , . Square.

N North,

S. .... South.

E East.

W. . . . . West.

P. Right (handX

L Left (hand).

rly. . . . Railway. Stat. . . . Station, eh. ... Church, hr. . . . . Hour, min.. . . Minutes.

£ Pounds sterling.

3. .... Shilling, or shillings k. . . . Krone.

d. .... Peuhy, or penra fr. .... Franc, or francs. c . . . Cents, centimes, orcej» tesimi.

fl Florin or florins.

mk.,mks. Mark, marks, pf. «... Ffennige. kr. ... Kreutzers.

L Lira, or lira

r. Reales.

Sun. . . . Sunday. Mon. . . Monday. Tues. . Tuesday. Wed. . . Wednesday. Thura. . Thursday. Fri. . Friday. Sat . . Saturday.

The names of the most important towns, buildings, and collections ire printed in full-faced type. Other notable places and objects, of less importance, have titles in italics.

In many cases, as of churches and public buildings, conspicuous* events, etc., the date of erection or of occurrence is placed directlv after, in parentheses.

Statements which have for many years been regarded locally as unchallengeable facts (e. g., the presei-vation of the heads of St Peter and St. Paul in the Lateran Basilica, Rome), are repeated in "hese papes without comment.

CONTEXTS.

Pag

Table of Moneys i

Abbreviations iv

A Chapter on Travel vii

Arrangements for the Journey vii

Steamships— The Ocean Journey ix

Money, etc xv

Railway Travel xvii

Hotel Expenses, etc xxi

Golfing — Cycling xxv

Automobile Regulations xxvii

Customs Regulations xxxii

Ireland , 1

Killarney — The Lakes 6

Dublin 16

Belfast, Giant's Causeway, etc 26

North Wales 29

England (Chester) 36

Liverpool 40

English Lake District 44

Scotland (The Land of Burns) ". 59

The Scottish Highlands 73

Stirling, Perth, Aberdeen 85

Edinburgh, Melrose, Abbotsford 91

England (Newcastle, Durham York) 103

Manchester, Lincoln, Derby 113

Coventry, Warwick, Stratford 123

London 141

Excursions in Southern England 167

Routes to the Continent 176

Northern France 179

Paris m

Routes from Paris to Switzerland 2?v.

CONTENTS.

Page

Belgium 225

Brussels and Environs 229

Ghent, Bruges, Antwerp, etc 232

Holland 239

Germany and Austria 245

Up the Rhine by Steamer 250

Berlin 274

Dresden and Prague 278

Vienna 283

Southeastern Europe 291

Munich and the Tyrol 298

Switzerland (Basle, Zurich) 315

Lucerne, Righi, St. Gothard 323

Berne, Freiburg, Lausanne, Geneva 331

Chamounix and Mont B.lanc 337

St. Bernard and Simplon Passes 339

Italy (Routes into Italy) 343

The North-Italian Cities 348

Florence 378

Rome 390

Naples, Pompeii, Sorrento, Capri 425

Sicily ^ 440

Southern France (Nice, Marseilles) 454

Aries, Nimes, Avignon, Lyons 458

A Round Trip in Spain 463

Portugal 495

A Tour in the North 503

Norway and Sweden 508

Russia 521

Alphabetical Table of Health Resorts 531

Diplomatic and Consular Agents of the U. S 541

Travel-Phrases in Four Languages 546

Travellers' Telegraphic Code 565

Index 573

THE COMPLETE POCKET-GUIDE TO EUROUE.

A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.

COURTEOUS READER,— When jon have laid aside your prejudices, donned your gar- ments of travel, and set your foot upon the gang- plank of the steamer bound for Europe, it will not be our fault if you discover that you have forgotten something. If you have bought this our little book, and read this preliminary chap- ter, you will depart for foreign lands with all 5"our preparations properly made. You can, with a trifle of care and patience, sit down with this book before you, and by its aid plan a journey which, including the ocean voyages out and back, shall not take up more than four full months, and can be made with ease and enjoyment.

AfTanffements for the Journey.

Try to arrange your journey so as to reach Europe by the first of May. With a view to this, secure your steamship ticket very early in the year, and if your allowance for the trip is limited buy a return ticket. By so doing you may save yourself some anxiety as the end of your journey approaches. When you ha\e

viii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.

decided on the date of your departure and the probable length of your absence from home, step into a prominent banker's in the city in which you reside, or the seaport whence you sail, and secure a Letter of Credit for a sum which you deem sufficient to cover your expenses until you are at home again. Allow a margin for con- tingencies. On the Letter of Credit are the addresses of perhaps two hundred of the lead- ing banking houses of Europe, and you have only to call on any one of these for such sums as you wish in the currency of the country where you may happen to be. The Travellers' Checks also afford an excellent means of carrying readily available funds abroad. They are accepted by most of the hotels and shops as freely as the money of the country, and are therefore found very useful by the tourist who may want small ; sums outside of banlving hours, or who may not find i it convenient to interrupt his sight-seeing by a call ] at the banker's. Buy at a broker's or at a . tourist agency a few dollars' worth of small i change of the country where you will land, for ] use in paying porters' fees, cab hire, etc.

Take a Passport. Circumstances may occur in :| which it will be positively necessary for you to have one. Address a letter to the "State De- < partment, Passport Bureau, Washington," ask- ing for the printed form necessary for applica- tion for the document. When you get this form, fill it out, swear to its contents before a notary. ■ and send it back to the State Department, in- closing the government tax of $1. In due time i "^u will get your passport. A tourist agency will ■ 'Vide the passport for you, if you prefer, ing you the trouble and charging you $3, in-

ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE JOURNEY, ix

elusive of the government tax, for its trouble. One is sufficient for man and wife, or man and family wliere there are no grown up sons or daughters. If a passjwrt serves for more per- sons than its holder, he should ask to have a note made upon it that Mr. is accompa- nied by . Passports are absolutely neces- sary if any one is suddenly called on to prove his or her identity. They are useful in securing admission to public buildings, private art gal- leries, etc. Sometimes the regulations exacting them are revived for a few days between two coun- tries, because of a diplomatic tension or im- broglio, and the person who has none will find his journey interrupted, and will suffer loss of money, tihie, and temper. In some European countries, such as Russia, they are demanded of all travellers, and in such cases the vise of the consul of the country in the port of departure is also required.

Steamships. — The Ocean Journey.

A voyage across the Atlantic is to-day such a common undertaking that most travellers make as brief preparation for it as if they were going by train from New York to Chicago.

The choice of steamships is very large. Try to secure your berths some weeks in advance of sailing; a deposit of $2.5 is in most cases suffi- cient, and this you are supposed to forfeit if you fail to take the ship, although you may generally postpone your departure by giving prompt notice of your desire to do so. Most of the lines give special rates for return tickets, the lowest fares usuajiy

xii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.

New York to Piraeus (Athens) 80 00 65 00

Hamburg-American Line

New York to Naples^ « 90 GO 65 00

Lloyd Italiano

New York to Naples^ ^ 65 00

Lloyd Sabaudo

New York to Naples'^ 70 00

Navigazione Generale Italiana

New York to Naples^ « 80 00 65 00

Philadelphia to Naples^ ' 60 00

North German Lloyd

New York to Naples' « 90 00 65 00

White Star Line

New York to Naples^" 115 00 65 00

Boston to Naples^' 85 50

1 Calling at Cherbourg. 3 Calling at Queenstown.

3 Calling at Fishguard.

4 Calling at Southampton.

5 Calling at Plymouth and Boulogne-sur-Mer.

6 Calling at Plymouth and Chei-bourg.

7 Calling at Dover.

8 Calling at Rotterdam.

9 Calling at Christiansand and Christiania.

10 Sailing from Portland, Me., in the winter.

11 Calling at the Azores, Algiers, Patras, Palermo and •

Almeria.

12 Calling at Cadiz.

13 Calling at Madeii-a, Gibraltar, Algiers, Monaco, Genoa,

Alexandria. Fiume and Palermo.

14 Calling at Genoa_and Marseilles.

15 Calling at Providence, R.I., the Azores and Lisbon.

16 Calling at Madeira, Gibraltar, Genoa and Palermo.

17 Calling at Genoa.

"8 Calling at Genoa and Palermo.

Calling at Gibraltar, Algiers, Palermo and Genoa. Ti?illing at Madeira, Gibraltar, Algiers, Genoa and Alexandria. Uing at the Azores, Gibraltar, Algiers and Genoa.

BAGGAGE. xlii

The question of Baggage for a European tour is very important. Our advice is to take with you in any case one large, stoutly built Ameri- can trunk, plainly marked with your name, place Of abode, and the initial letter of your surname in large size ; this is for convenience in locating your trunks at the customs on arrival in New York or other American ports. Into this trunk put everything that you are certain not to re- quire on the ocean voyage. Then pack articles needed for the voyage either in a roomy .valise or in one of the small, flat cabin trunks, built so that they will go under a berth. Take with you plenty of warm clothing, and make it a rule in travelling on the Continent always to have overcoats, cloaks, etc., at hand. You will find them as necessary in Switzerland and Italy as in Scotland and North Germany. When you reach Liverpool, if you intend to return by that port, you can leave your steamer trunk stored at a hotel or steamship office, if you think you will not require it. Then have your large trunk sent from pomt to point where you may need it, but travel on all short excursions, trips of two or three days, etc., unencumbered by anything that you cannot carry in your hands. Even if a valise is rather voluminous, you can take it into rail- way carriages with you all over the Continent, and you will not have to pay express for it; in most European countries the baggage allowance is very small and the rates for overweight are high. A good portion of the equipment of a masculine traveller may be purchased after his arrival in Europe. He had better bring his American shoes and overcoat, but hats, linen, etc., can be bought to advantage in Great Britain or France. Trav-

xiv A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.

elliiig suits for j^'eiitlemen should be modest in color ; black clothes are handy \A^hen one arrives at a fashionable watering-place or a large town, and evening dress is highly necessary in London in the season, and in long stops in other cities it is of course frequently required. We shall not venture to offer the ladies advice about what to wear, further than to repeat our injunction con- cerning plenty of wraps, and to hint that thin shoes should not be worn in travel. A water- proof .coat is extremely useful. An umbrella, stout enough to serve the purpose of a cane, should be taken. Woolen socks and thick-soled shoes are the things for travel. Travelling suits for men cost in Great Britain or France about one-third as much as in America. They are not made so well, nor of such good material as our own, but they are very serviceable.

On the Steamship Voyage keep in the open air as much as possible. If jon suffer continuously from sea-sickness, struggle up on deck daily, and in one of the adjustable steamer chairs, to be rented on board, remain in recumbent posture, well wrapped up, but do not pass a moment of daylight down stairs, except when at meals or in very rough weather. The deck steward will even bring you your meals, if necessary. If the ship pitches violently, lie with your head toward the bows. If you are well, and wish to remain so, avoid heavy food, heating liquors, intense application to books or cards. Just live, eat, and sleep, and when you reach land you will be amazed to observe how you have rested. Avoid late suppers Get up early, and get on deck at once. When you are approaching land the question of stewards' fees will come up. We should say give the steward

MONEY. xr

who waits on you at the table 10s. ; your berth- room steward, the same, and the deck steward about 5s. ; the "boots" and bath-man must be remembered if you have been served by them. But if you cannot afford so much, give less ; the servants expect something, but they seldom grumble at the amount.

Landing at Queenstown is very simple. You go off in a tug, w^hich transports you up the bay from Roches Point (see Ireland)." Customs formalities same as on

Landmg at Liverpool. — We strongly advise tourists to leave the steamers at Queenstow^n, if the steamer reaches there, and go through Ire- land first. Some of the Cunard steamships stop also at Fishguard. Most of the steamers now land their passengers for England at Plymouth or Southampton, Passengers for Liverpool forraerly left the steamers in tugs, and came up to the Prince's Landing Stage, where there is a custom-house, and where they were usually kept waiting about an hour. Now ships usually go into dock before discharging passen- gers. The custom-house officers search for cigars and spirits only ; if you have neither, you will soon have jouv "luggage" on a cab or dray, and be on your way to the North Western or Midland Railway stations, or to your hotel.

Money — A Word of Explanation.

In Great Britain the money is pounds, shill- ings, and pence (£ s. d,). In France, Belgium, Switzerland, Italy, and Spain there is a decimal currency. In the first three countries the reck- oning is in francs and centimes; in Italy it is in

xvi A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.

lire and centesimi; in Spain, pesetas and cc>2f/- mos. But gold' coins of any of the five above- named countries circulate freely in all of them. The French twenty-franc piece and the English sovereign are current money anywhere in the Continent. In Holland the money is reckoned in guilders and cents. There are 100 cents in a guilder, which is 40 cents of our money. In Ger- many reckoning is in marks and pfennige. The mark is about 24 cents gold, and there are 100 pfennige in it. When you give one pfennig to a beggar, he never troubles you again. In 'Austria one had formerly to reckon in gulden and kreut- zers. The gulden is 40.6 cents of our money, and is divided into 100 kreutzers. In that coun- try there is now a new system in which the unit is a crotcn, which is equivalent to a fraction over 20 cents of our money, divided into 100 helle?- — practically the same as the French franc and centime. In Portugal the money is counted in reis, of which it takes ten to make one cent. In Russia ruMes and kopeks are the money. The gold coins most in use on the lines of travel which you are likely to take are sovereigns and half-sovereigns (English) (the guinea (21s.) no longer exists, although it is still used in reckon- ing), twenty, ten, and five franc pieces; twenty- mark and ten-mark pieces. In Sweden, Norway and Denmark the krone ($0,268) is the basis of reckoning. Be careful not to bring Italian or Austrian paper to Paris or London. You will lose very heavily on it. English, French, and German bank notes are as good as gold. The French have notes of fifty, one hundred, five hundred, and one thousand francs, and. these are extremely convenient to carry on the Conti-

RAILWAYS. XYii

ment, but they are not current in other countries. (See Comparative Tadle of Moneys following title-page. )

Raihvay Travel. — You will find first, second, and tJwd class everywhere, save upon some of the English railways which have no second class. Express trains on the Continent have no third class ; but in Great Britain nearly all trains have it. First class is best for long journeys ; second good enough for short ones ; and third worth taking now and then, particularly in England and Germany, for the purpose of studying the native people. Second class in Germany and Austria is almost as comfortable as first class in England and France. On a long journey from France into Germany, you may frequently take "a mixed" ticket with advantage, /. e. first in France and second in Germany. A man trav- elling alone and not afraid of a little fatigue may take third class through from London to Glasgow or Edinburgh, or from London to Liv- erpool, saving just half the sum he would ex- pend in first class. In England and Great Brit- ain, generally, people speak of "taking" a ticket and "booking" a place. The "booking-ofiice" is where the tickets are sold. The conductor i& called the "guard." This phraseology appears to have been left over from the old coaching days. Be sure and attend to your "luggage" carefully. Get a label pasted on any piece that you propose to leave in the "luggage van," and when you reach your desfination, be on hand to claim your things. Small bags, wraps, etc., can always be left in a "cloak room" at any railway station for hours or days. Employees are civil and obliging, but all expect small compensation.

xviii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.

Do not make the mistake, either in Great Brit- ain or on the Continent, of giving large gratui- ties. In the British Islands smoking-carriages are provided on every train ; in France and some other Latin countries smoking is permissible, by ffeneral consent, in any carriages except those reserved for ladies only ; in Italy, only in smok- ing compartments ; in the Germanic lands smok- ing is wellnigh universal, although every train has its Damen-coupe, and its compartments fi'ir isHclitraucher. The coupes, or end compartments with windows in front — another survival of diligence and coach customs, may be hired at reasonable charges above the first class fares, and should generally be engaged beforehand at the station. In France and Middle Europe gen- erally the tariff is about 16 francs per seat per thousand kilometres. A party of four, going through from Paris to Cologne, or coming from Nice to Paris, will find a coup^ worth taking. Do not trust too implicitly to information furnished by railroad and steamship officials, for it may be misleading. Among R. R. guide books. "Brad- shaw." price (>d., is the most compact for Great Britain; the Chaix "Guide des Chemins de Fer de TEurope"' will do for the Continent. It con- tains all that may be found in the local guides published in Germany, Switzerland, etc., costs only 40 cents, and is corrected several times yearly. Most guides are furnished with maps, from which you can gain very clear ideas of the location of the lines along which you travel. On excursions, remember that return tickets can generally be had at a discount from the regular fares. Return tickets are usually available only on the day on which they are sold, and by the

RAILWAYS. xix

first train of the next. Saturday tickets, how- ever, generally extend until the first Monday train. On the Continent the terms for returns are much more liberal than in Great Britain. "Circular tickets'" are issued in nearly all coun- tries, and ample information concerning them is given at railway stations, hotels, banks, and in the newspapers. There is usually a saving (there is certainly great convenience) in buying these circular tickets, especially to those who, for example, wish to go from Paris to Switzerland, and after visiting that country to return directly to France. There is a great variety of excursion tickets and hotel-couiwn arrangements, by which inexperienced travellers, or those who do not care to explore their own routes may be aided in travelling, passing all over the Continent and the Levant under efficient chaperonage. There are sleeping-cars on many English and Continental lines. Between Paris and Vienna, Paris and Geneva, Paris and Turin and Florence, and often Rome also, Paris and Berlin and Russia, etc., there is a regular sleeping-car service. The Russian cars are larger and more elegant than the other Continental ones ; and in Russia and Switzerland a modified American railway-car- riage, in which, however, class distinctions are kept up, is in use. The amount of baggage car- ried free in France. Spain, and Sweden is 60 pounds; in North Germany, Austro-Hungary, Holland and Russia, .55 pounds ; in Great Brit- ain, any reasonable amount ; in South Germany, Belgium, Italy, and Switzerland, there is no fi-ee I'.aggage. but the rates are not extravagant. In some parts of Italy and Switzerland there have been great complaints that baggage has been

XX A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.

plundered in transit by baggage-masters and trainmen ; hence the necessity for first-rate locks already mentioned. Parcels, and baggage when forwarded to be called for later, should be sealed. Indeed, the railway companies generally insist on this, and refuse articles which appear to be insecurely fastened. In all Continental coun- tries, when your baggage is weighed, a receipt is given you, and the number on it corresponds to that pasted on the trunk or valise. Even if there is no excess of weight, you must have a re- ceipt. In some cases, in going from an im- portant city in one country to an important city in another, your baggage can be "registered through," and examined when it reaches its destination ; in others, although registered through, it must be examined at the frontier. The examination is a pure formality almost everywhere. In vexatious cases nothing is gained by grumbling and scolding. Small fees to railway servants, guards, etc., always meet with prompt return in civility and privilege. At all German and Swiss railway depots, apply to the portier for information. In Italy the rail- way facchini are paid according to tariff — i soldi (cents) for a trunk, 2 for a bag or valise, and in proportion for a bundle of wraps, etc. In Rome, however, this tariff is raised to 5 and 3 soldi. The refreshment rooms in England, Scot- land, Italy, Spain, and North Germany are not always very good; in other countries they are excellent. On long journeys carry your own basket, especially in Italy and Spain, where fruit, bread, and wine may be had in the open air markets for a song, but in hotels are held very dear. In Italy and Russia a window on

HOTEL EXPENSES. xxi

the windward side of a railway carriage can- not be kept open if any person in the compart- ment objects.

Hotel Expenses

must naturally vary much according to taste and income of the traveller. Our lists of hotels are carefully selected, and we believe that the houses recommended will be found satisfactory. Great Britain is an expensive country by comparison with Switzerland or Italy ; in Germany cities are expensive, small towns and country cheap. The American will notice with some surprise that life in Europe is, as a whole, no longer much if any cheaper than in America. To live even carefully at a first-class hotel in any part of Great Britain costs about four dollars or four dollars and a half daily, divided somewhat as follows: Breakfast, from two and six (two shil- lings and sixpence) to three and six ; lunch, about same price; dinner, without wine, five shillings ; room, from four and six to eight and six, and one and six for attendance. Wines are as dear, with few exceptions, as in the United States. There are, how^ever, good hotels, where you may live at about ten shillings daily ; and private boarding-houses in the large cities where it will cost from seven to ten shillings daily — rarely under ten. A person very economically inclined may possibly live for six shillings daily, but not in rapid travel. On the Continent you may calculate that if you reach a hotel at night- fall, dine or sup and' sleep, and take early break- fast there, your bill will be 12 or 13 francs. For a stay of some days you may manage not to

xxii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.

spend more than from ten to fourteen francs daily. In large capitals, simply take room at your hotel, and your first meal there. The others can be had to suit your purse and con- venience at restaurants. In Germany, Switzer- land, and some parts of Italy, the tables dlidte are cheaper than the restaurants. If you want a cheap room in a hotel, say so ; there is no surprise at economy in Europe. Travellers should carry their own soap and toilet paj^er, though in most hotels of the first class, and even second, these are now usually furnished. Wash- ing can usually be done within 24 hours in all countries. When you buy a parcel and order it sent to your room, give the number of the cham- ber as well as your name. Fee the portier at Continental hotels; he will be useful. Give one of your dining-room waiters something, but give to only one. Never mind the head waiter's sardonic frown. In France you will save money by taking your meals at the hours when the natives take theirs ; out of hours you pay special prices. By asking for ice- water, you can now get it almost every- where. In Middle Europe drink ordinary wines, and dilute them with water, except at evening. The vin ordinaire is pure and wholesome in all countries. Examine your bills, and don't allow overcharges. The omnibus from the station is generally charged in your bill. The baggage porter expects small fee when you go away. Insist on having your bill when you ask for it. You will find English spoken in almost all hotels. You can always post letters and gen- erally send telegrams from your hotel, unless in some small country town. Telegraphy is cheap

CAUTIONS. xxiii

in nearly all European countries. Before leaving America tell your friends to write to you, care of your bankers in London or Paris ; if you keep your bankers advised of your address you will never miss a mail. Register your name at the London and Paris offices of your banker's ; and you may thus find friends or acquaintances who happen to be travelling abroad. In Paris, you will find the larger bankers well provided with post-ofiices, reading-rooms, and information about travel. If you need a courier (but you really do not), ask your banker or landlord for the. address of one. Couriers are expensive lux- uries.

We think all necessary information about cabs will be found in the text of the volume. Dili- gences are to be avoided as much as possible. In some places they are, however, indispensable. On steamboats on lakes and streams you may usually take free about twice as much baggage as by rail. Always make your bargains before- hand for private carriages.

A few cautions as to small matters may not be out of place. Should you go shopping on the Continent, especially in France, Belgium, Swit- zerland, or Italy, try to make up your mind from your inspection of an article in the windows whether you want it or not. The window is really the shop; everything is plainly marked, and if you go in and come out again without buying, the shopkeeper often considers that you have made him waste his time, and may not con- ceal his disappointment from you. Should you take furnished apartments, be sure and inspect the inventory made of them befort you move in. Do not violate any regulations, municipal or gen-

xxiv A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.

eral, however trivial and useless they may seem, for the laws are rigidly enforced. Secure seats at the theatres at least 24 hours before you in- tend to go, otherwise you will be badly placed. After climbing a Swiss mountain pass, be care- ful not to take cold ; imprudence m the moun- tains often ruins a whole summer. Wraps must be taken into galleries, churches, and palaces, especially in Italy, even in summer. In passing from sunshine to shade, gather your garments about you, and avoid chills. If you go to a poste rest ante (general aelivery post-office), present "^your name plainly written or printed on a card. In making pedestrian tours in out-of-the-way districts, do not lose your temper if the local officials are a little curious about your move- ments. In case of sudden illness in France, Italy, or Switzerland, call an American or Eng- lish physician, if you can find one. Failing that, a local physician who has had practice among foreigners is better than one who has not.

Language is not so great a barrier to communi- cation as is imagined. If you get into a corner of Europe where no tongue that you can speak is understood, use English just as if the people knew what it meant, and make signs. You will get on famously. The little list of phrases at the end of this volume may be found an aid to those who have some familiarity with those lan- guages most spoken in Europe. On general prin- ciples, however, it is better to use what little you know of a foreign language than to seek in- terpreters. You will be presumed to know more than you express, and you will make better bar- gains.

Go to the United States' Consul for information

GOLFING.— CYCLING. xxv

when you are really in doubt and need advice; but do not trespass on his time unnecessarily, for if he has an important office and attends to it, he has little time for strangers who come without a business reason for their call.

Golfing.

The opportunities for golf on the Continent have greatly increased during the past few years, many of the hotels in the resorts largely pa- tronized by English and Americans having had links laid out. Golf clubs having more or less desirable courses have been established in the following places, among others : — Belgium — Ant- werp, Bruges, Brussels, Ostend, Vianden ; France — Aix-les-Bains, Arcachon, Argeles, Beaulieu- sur-Mer, Biarritz, Boulogne, Cannes, Costebelle, Dieppe, Dinard, Gavarnie, Hyeres, Nice, Parame, Paris, Pau, St. Jean de Luz, Sainte Marguerite (Pornichet Station) ; Germany — Baden-Baden, Berlin, Bremen, Dresden, Homburg, Wiesbaden; Gibraltar; Holland — Arnheim. Doom, Haarlem, Hague, Hilversum, Leenwarden ; Italy — Como, Florence, Rome, San Remo, Sorrento, Spezia, Varese ; Portugal — Oporto ; Russia — Moscow, St. Petersburg ; Su'eden — Gothenburg ; Switzerland — Maloga, St. Moritz, Samaden.

Cycling.

The chief inconveniences of a cycle tour on the Continent are those due to the customs regula- tions in the different countries. At nearly every frontier the tourist is obliged to pay the regular

xxvi A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.

duty imposed upon wheels imported for sale, but on leaving the country this duty is refunded. The following is the deposit required in each country, the amount in each case being reduced to its American equivalent : Austria, $10 ; the tourist must swear to a declaration that he in- tends to remain only temporarily in the coun- try, and that his wheel is not for sale ; on leav- ing the country the deposit will be refunded ; Belgium, 12 per cent, ad valorem ; if intending to leave the country by rail, the tourist must write in advance to the custom-house official at the frontier, enclosing receipt and stating on what train he will pass through ; the money will then be refunded when the frontier is reached. Den- iiiark, 10 per cent, ad valorem ; special permit must be obtained if tourist intends to leave through another custom house ; a lead seal must be attached to the wheel as a receipt. England. free. France, 25 cents per pound; a lead seal is attached to the wheel as a receipt, and the tourist may leave by any frontier. Germany, free for tourists; in this country bicycles will not be taken on the express trains. Holland, free for tourists. Italy, $8. Luxembourg, 3 cents per pound. Portugal, 27 per cent, ad valorem ; a seal required as in France. Russia, $7.80; a seal and permit required as in Denmark. Spain, 5c. per pound; and in addition the tourist must obtain a special pass good for six months, for which 20 cents is charged ; the frontier officials are some- times exacting, and it may be wise to secure the services of a custom-house broker. Sweden and Norivag, 25 to 30 kr. respectively ; if the tourist intends to enter the country through any but the principal custom houses he must obtain

AUTOMOBILING. xxvii

a permit from the Director General of Customs, and he must leave the country by the same route that he entered; his deposit will be forfeited if he remains over sixty days ; Sivitzerland, 6c. per lb.

Any American wheelman intending to tour on the Continent, if he is not already a member of the L. A. W., should join that organization, as it gives him many privileges. The governments of Italy, Belgium, and Switzerland now permit touring members of the L. A. W. to pass their respective frontiers without making a deposit. There is also an alliance between the League and the Cyclists' Touring Club of Great Britain, whereby a member of one may be admitted to temporary membership in the other without extra fee. The Touring Club de France may also be joined by League members at slight expense, and with membership in those tw^o clubs one obtains road books free, reduction in rates at hotels, and many other advantages.

The wheel should be provided with a brake, a bell or gong, and a lantern. It must be boxed for the steamship very strongly and not merely crated ; a bicycle trunk, though expensive, is ad- visable. There is a charge for freight on most lines. If the tourist has the precaution to take a second chain and extra nuts, together with a serviceable repair kit, he may be spared much vexation and loss of time and money.

Automobile Regulations.

The steamship companies insist that automo- biles be crated before being accepted for trans- portation to or from Europe. The expense of

xxviii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.

this is about $100, but the box can be stored with the steamship company or the forwarding company and used for the return voyage. The channel steamers between Great Britain and the Continent have every facility for carrying un- crated cars without risk. The motoring tourist should always have with him a passport, an offi- cial certificate of his ability as a driver, and a maker's certificate giving date of sale, value, weight, type of car, capacity, etc. It will be to his advantage in many ways to become a mem- ber of the Touring Club of France. This club, the American Automobile Association, and the Automobile Club of America issue a sort of pass- port, called a "triptyque ; this in general ad- mits the bearer to a country without paying dut:*^ on his car, the triptyque being a certificate that the duty will be paid if the traveller remains in the country beyond the designated time. Much trouble will be avoided by Americans if they will take their local permits and licenses with certified attestations from the consular author- ities of the particular countries they intend to tour. The owner should also carry a number of small photographs of himself and his chauf- feur, as they are often required to be attached for purposes of identification to the permits in the various countries. The following is a synopsis of the custom house rules and police regulations in the most frequented countries of Europe :

France. — The duty is at the rate of 50 francs for each 100 kilogrammes, if the car weighs more than 125 kilogrammes (275 lbs.), and 120 francs if it weighs less than this. The amount must be deposited on entering the country, and

AUTOMOBILING. xxix

will be refunded when leaving the country (within six months) on presentation of the de- posit receipt at the frontier. The speed limit is thirty kilometres (about 19 miles) in the coun- try, 20 kilometres (about 13 miles) in villages; in narrow roads or streets the car must not ex- ceed the speed of a man walking. These rules are not strictly enforced if the car seems to be under complete control. At night a white and a green light must be displayed in front.

Germany. — The duty is 230 marks, which is seldom demanded if the driver has a passport and can prove that the car has been in his pos- session a reasonable time. The amount paid will be refunded when the car leaves the country. The regulations vary in different towns and parts of the empire; in many places certain streets are forbidden to automobiles, and in one little principality at least the entrance of motor cars into the capital is not allowed when the ruler is "in residence."

Holland. — The duty is 5 per cent, ad valorem, repayable on leaving the country : it is seldom exacted unless the car is manifestly new. The speed limit is 20 kilometres (about 13 miles) in the country, 8 kilometres (5 miles) in villages, over bridges, down hill, at night, and in foggy weather. A permit must be obtained from the Secretary of Public Works and must be counter- signed at the custom house ; blank permits may be had from the Netherlands Automobile Club, The Hague, on payment of 4.20 gulden (50 cts.). Every car must carry two lights and a horn or bell respectively visible and audible 350 feet.

Belgium. — A duty of 12 per cent, ad valorem, repayable at the frontier when leaving the coun-

XXX A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.

try, is required. Lamps and horns are required, cars must proceed slowly in towns and when crossing bridges, and in all cases must be under control and must not exceed a reasonable speed.

Great Britain and Ireland. — There is no duty on automobiles. Lights and sound signals are required and a reasonable speed must not be exceeded. To avoid accidents the driver must observe tne rule of the road and pass to the left instead of the right.

Switzerland, — The duty is 20 francs per 100 kilogrammes, repayable when leaving the coun- try. Each car must carry a white and a green light in front and a red" light behind, a good horn, and two brakes, each one capable of stop- ping the car w^ithin two metres (33 feet) on a decline or when running at full legal speed. The speed must not exceed 30 kilometres (about 19 miles) in the country, 10 kilometres (61 miles) in cities and towns or on mountain roads, and 6 kilometres (3f miles) on bridges, in narrow streets, and whenever warning signs demand it. The car must stop when meeting a horse that appears frightened or when a government stage- coach is met. There are a number of other regu- lations, some of them vexatious and unreason- able. Indeed, automobiles are unpopular in Switzerland, and in case of accident, no matter where the blame lies, the motor driver is usually held accountable. A permit is necessary unless the owner has one from his own government and that government is one which reciprocates in this respect with Switzerland.

Austria.— The duty is 130 kroner (about $26) for the car and 18 kr. ($3.50) for every 100 kilo- grammes (220 lbs.) weight of the motor. This

AUTOMOBILIXG. xxxi

sum is refunded when the owner leaves Austrian territory.

Italy.— The duty varies from 200 lire ($38.60) for a car weighing up to 50O kilos (1.200 lbs.) to 600 lire ($115.80) for one weighing over 1,000 kilos (2.400 lbs.) The amount will be refunded on leaving the country within six months. The driver must obtain a permit within ifive days, either on the basis of reciprocity, if that exists with the country granting his original license, or after proving to the authorities by actual test that he is a competent driver.

Russia. — There is a vexatious amount of red tape to unravel in order to drive a motor car into Russia. A special permit must be obtained from the Secretary of Finance, and one who gets the permit within a week of his application is to be congratulated. The application for the permit, which must be made on stamped paper (SO kopeks, about 40 cents), must state how long the driver expects to be in Russia, at what town the car will enter, and from what town it will leave the country. The duty paid will be re- funded some time or other, but usually not until some weeks after the car has left the country.

Spain. — The duty paid is refunded on leaving the country. The speed laws are not irksome.

Denmark. — No duty is required if the owner makes declaration that he is touring and intends to make only a temporary stay in the country.

Reimportation into the United States. — The regulations of the U. S. Treasury Department provide that the owner of an automobile of for- eign manufacture on which duties have been paid may, after its identification and the issue of a certificate by customs officers on his appli-

xxxii A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.

cation, take it abroad for touring purposes, with the right of free entry on its return with him or within thirty days after him, provided that no repairs, improvements, or additions were made to the automobile, except absolutely necessary repairs costing not more than 10 per cent, of the original appraised value. Cars of American manufacture will be admitted on their return free of duty, provided that they shall not have been advanced in value or improved in condition, and that all repairs made thereto were absolutely necessary and did not cost more than 10 per cent, of the original price of the car; and pro- vided further that it shall be shown that the accessories are those taken abroad under the cer- tificate.

Customs Regulations.

All persons on their arrival in the United States are required to make a declaration of dutiable articles obtained by them abroad. The declaration will be verified on the pier by careful examination of the contents of the packages.

The senior member of a family may include all the members thereof in his or her declara- tion. State the exact number of pieces of bag- gage in which your effects are contained. Give the cost of foreign value of each dutiable article. As far as practicable, keep your original re- ceipted bills for all purchases of any importance during your stay abroad.

When packing your baggage for your return trip it would be well to prepare a list of articles so purchased, with the prices paid for each. If these articles are so placed in your trunks that you can easily find and exhibit them for ap-

CUSTOMS REGULATIONS. xxxiii

praisement, much time and inconvenience will be saved.

Each person is entitled to bring in fifty cigars or three hundred crgarettes for his own use. All cigars and cigarettes in excess of this number and less than three thousand are liable to seizure, but in meritorious cases may be released by the payment of a fine equal to the .duty and the internal revenue tax.

Duties will be assessed at the foreign market values at the time of exportation with due allowance for wear or depreciation. A failure to declare dutiable articles in your possession will render the same liable to seizure and con- fiscation and you to criminal prosecution.

In case passengers are dissatisfied with the values placed upon dutiable articles, they have the privilege to demand a reexamination, but application therefor should be immediately made to the deputy collector at the pier. If, for any reason, this is impracticable, the packages con- taining the articles should be left in customs custody and application for reappraisement made to the collector at the custom house in writing within two days after the original appraisement. No request for reappraisement can be enter- tained after the articles have been removed from customs custody.

Baggage intended for delivery at another port may be forwarded thereto upon application, without the assessment of duty at the port of arrival. Any baggage or personal effects in transit through the United States to any foreign country may on application be forwarded to the port of departure. The officer taking your dec- laration will advise you on this point. Repre-

xxxiv A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.

sentatives of various railroads and express com- panies will be found on the pier and will take charge of your baggage and forward it to des- tination if desired.

Government officers are forbidden by law to accept anything but currency in payment of du- ties, but if requested will retain baggage on the pier for .twenty-four hours to enable the owner to secure the currency.

It is unlawful for customs officers to receive any "tip" or gratuity, and to offer the same is a violation of law.

Passengers are requested promptly to report to the Secretary of the Treasury, the collector at the custom house or the deputy collector at the pier any discourtesy or incivility on the part of customs officers.

A resident of the United States returning thereto is entitled to bring with him, free of dut>', personal effects taken abroad by him as baggage, provided they have not been remodelled or improved abroad so as to increase their value, and, in addition thereto, personal property pur- chased or otherwise obtained abroad, of a total value not exceeding $100. The exempt articles (if under $100 in value) include clothing, toilet articles, personal adornments, jewelry, &c., cameras, canes, fishing tackle, glasses (field, opera, marine), golf sticks, guns, musical instru- ments, parasols, photographs, smoker's articles, steamer rugs and shawls, toys, trunks, valises. &c.

(To prevent the use of the foregoing provision as a cloak for smuggling, customs officials are instructed to inquire into the bona fides of the journey and the actual ownership of the goods. Either the presence of an unusual amount of any

CUSTOMS REGULATIONS. xxxv

class of highly dutiable merchandise or frequent and hasty journeys is sufficient to raise the pre- sumption of bad faith. Such cases will be sub- ject to most careful scrutiny and prosecution.)

All articles obtained abroad, whether exempt from duty or otherwise, should be declared, and the allowance of $100 for articles obtained abroad will be made by the deputy collector upon the pier.

Non-residents of the United States are entitled to bring with them as baggage free of duty all wearing apparel, articles of personal adornment, toilet articles and similar personal effects in actual use and necessary and appropriate for the wear and use of such persons and their present comfort and convenience, not intended for other persons or for sale.

Non-residents for the purpose of customs ad- ministration are divided into three classes :

First — Actual residents of other countries.

Second — Persons who have been abroad for the purpose of study, restoration of health, or for other specific objects, and have had a fixed for- eign abode for one year or more.

Third — Persons who have been abroad for two years or more for any purpose whatever, and who have had during that time a fixed place of abode for one year or more.

Household effects of persons or families from foreign countries will be admitted free of duty if actually used abroad by them not less than one year, and not intended for any other person or for sale.

The law expressly forbids the importation into the United States of garments made in whole or in part of the skins of prohibited fur seals,

xxxvi A CHAPTER ON TRAVEL.

and unless the owner is able to establish by com- petent evidence and to the satisfaction of the Collector either that the garments were pur- chased prior to December 29, 1897, or that the animals from which the skins were taken were captured elsewhere than in prohibited waters, entry will not be allowed.

Residents' who desire to take sealskin gar- ments abroad may have the same registered with the Collector.

Map of GREAT BRITAIN

IRELAND

THE COMPLETE POCKET-GUIDE TO EUROPE

IRELAND.

THE majority of American visitors to Europe go first to Great Britain, leaving a tour through the picturesque and interesting island of Ireland among the possibilities of the last days of their pilgrimage. Our own impression is that those who go abroad as early as May or June would do better to land at Queenstown, if their ships stop there, and make a brief trip through the Emerald Isle, and quitting it either via Belfast for Glasgow, or via Dublin and Kingstown, crossing the Irish Channel to Holy- head in 4 hrs., and going from Holyhead to Chester, Liverpool, and thence northward to the English Lake District, or to London, as best suits their humor. Thousands of persons return to the United States without having set foot in Ireland. They intended to go there ; but after their long season of travel on the Continent they get back to London somewhat wearied, as well as economically inclined, and the result is that they hasten to take ship for home, seeing naught of Ireland but the bold lines of its coast and the round towers which cap its highest cliffs ; and on most of the steamer routes not even that.

2 IRELAND. Queenstown.

Ireland is worth a visit of 3-5 days, and our object is to show the tourist how he may spend those days to advantage in that country. Many of the steamships of the Cunard and White Star lines call at Queenstown, coming from and going to New York, Boston, and other iwrts. Tugboats speedily convey passengers with their baggage from Roches Point, where the steamers stop, up to the town proi>er ; and the noble port with its green water, the verdant hills crowned with handsome buildings and protected by fortifica- tions, and the pretty groves and forests, out of which white villas peep, form a picture doubly pleasing to the eye of the visitor, after he has for many days seen nothing but sea, sky, and the ship that brought him over.

Queenstown (Queen's Hotel; Royal; Beach) is on Great Island, which lies in the magnifi- cent bay or arm of the sea into which the river Lee pours its waters. The town was formerly called the "Cove of Cork," and received its pres- ent name after Queen Victoria paid it a visit. It is built on the face of a hill sloping down to the shore ; has a Catholic cathedral and a fine Protestant church, and about 8,000 inhabitants. Invalids are attracted to Queenstown by the ex- treme mildness of its climate. Rev. Charles Wolfe, who wrote the famous lines on the burial of Sir John Moore, died here in 1823, and is buried on the island. The immense harbor of Cork, large enough to afford shelter to the com- bined navies of Europe at once, in its basin 10 square M. in area, is well defended by forts on either sice the channel of entrance. On f^piJc Island is Fort Westmoreland, commanding en trance to harbor. Hawl'boicline Island contains

IRELAND. CoEK. 3

ordnance stores and an armory. Rocky Island is a powder magazine, with huge chambers quarried out of the solid rocli. It was into Corli Harbor and Crosshaven Creek that Dralie re- treated when the Spanish fleet was hotly pur- suing him. He succeeded in hiding his ships so effectually at a spot known to this day as Drake's Pool, that the superstitious Spaniards attributed the disappearance to magic.

There are three routes from Queenstown to Cork: by rail all the way (Is. 2d., or 6d.) ; by steamer to Passage and thence by rail (fares same as above) ; or by steamer up the river di- rect to Patrick's Bridge. "It would be difficult," wrote Sir John Forbes, "to overpraise the beauty of the river from Cork to Queenstown, or the magnificent harbor or inland bay in which it terminates, more especially when these are seen under the influence of a bright sun and brilliant sky." At Monkstoicn, at a point where the river • Lee widens into a lake, stands a castle, now in ruins.

Cork (Imjjerial Hotel; Royal Victoria; Met- ropoZe, temperance), the "capital of the South," has a population of 100,000. It is situated on both banks of the river Lee, which is crossed by numerous bridges. The Irish name of Cork signifies "a swamp," and well describes the loca- tion of the towm. The Grand Parade, the South Mall, Great George's-St., Mardyke, and St. Pat- rick's-St., on which stands a statue of Father Mathew, are the principal avenues. The Queen's College, a handsome quadrangular structure in Tudor-Gothic style, is situated on a small hill near the S. fork of the stream. St. Ann's Ch. is the most interesting edifice in Cork. It con-

4 IRELAND. Cork. — Blarney Castle.

tains the "bells of Shandon," of which Father Prout sang so melodiously. This church was built in 1722, and its curious steeple, three sides of which are of limestone, while the fourth is red, is 120 feet high, and constructed of hewn stone from a Franciscan abbey where James II. had once heard mass, and from the ruins of a castle which had been the official residence of the lords- president of Munster. The Ch. of the Holy Trinity, founded by Father Mathew, who began his career as an aix)stle of temperance in Cork, is worthy a visit ; and so is the modern Prot- estant Cathedral of St. Fionn Bar. This saint founded a monastery on the site of a heathen temple in Cork in the 7th century. The invading Danes, 200 years later, surrounded the little town with walls. Cork had its charter as a city taken away at the close of the 15th century, because it had received Perkin Warbeck, the impostor king, with royal honors. The charter was re- stored in 1609. Cromwell's cruelties in Cork, in the War of the Protectorate, are still related by the inhabitants. William Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania, became a convert to Quakerism in Cork, where he heard the eloquent preaching of one Thomas Loe. Cork was surrendered to Henry II. in the 12th century by Dermot M'Carthy, Prince of Desmond; but the English invaders were harassed for centuries by petty Irish chieftains, and the sentiment of inde- pendent Irish nationality seems even nowadays conspicuously manifest in the neighborhood. The lovelj' Victoria Park of 140 acres may be seen on the way to Blarney Castle.

Blarney Castle may be reached from Cork by rail in 16 minutes. But the best plan is to take

IRELAND. Blarney Stone. 5

a jaunting-car (about 3s. there and back) by the road on the N. bank of the river. The dis- tance is 5 M. Cormac M'Carthy built the mas- sive donjon tower. 120 feet high, and the lower portion, in the 15th century : and the famous Blarney Stone, which bore the inscription, Cor- mach MacCarthy fortis mi fieri fecit A. D. 1446, now illegible, was clasped by two iron bars to a projecting buttress at the top of the castle, at the N. angle, several feet below the level of the wall, so that the person who wished to kiss it had to hold on to the bars, and project his body forward in most risky fashion. Another stone, marked "1703," stands within the tower in a place where it is quite accessible to kisses. "The Blarney Stone," says Black's Picturesque Tourist of Ireland, "had long been a byword among the Irish : it is difficult to conjecture why, unless the glib tongues of the natives of this locality were supposed to be not the ordinary gift of Nature. But it had not reached its full zenith of talis- manic power until 1799, when Milliken wrote his well-known song of 'The Groves of Blar- ney.' A curious tradition attributes to the stone the power of endowing whoever kisses it with the sweet, persuasive, wheedling eloquence, so perceptible in the language of the Cork people, and which is usually termed Blarney. There is an old story about Blarney Lake, a pretty sheet of water, I M. from the castle. It is said that the Earl of Clancarty, who forfeited the prop- erty at the Revolution, sank all his family plate in a certain part of this lake; that three of the M'Carthys inherit the secret of the place where the treasure is sunk, any one of whom, dying, communicates it to another of the family, and

6 IRELAND. Lakes of Killarney.

thus perpetuates the secret, which is never to be made public until a M'Carthy is again Lord of Blarney.

Other Excursions from Cork. — To RostcUan Castle and Cloyne, three times daily by steamer to Aghada. In Rostellan Castle is preserved an ancient sword said to have belonged to Brian Boroihme, the ancestor of the O'Briens. At Cloyne there is a 14th century cathedral and a noted "round tower." — To Youghal and the Blackivater. This excursion may be made in a single day by taking an early train from Cork to Youghal (28 M.), whence a steamer up the beautiful Black water River to Cappoquin, above which point the stream is not navigable. At Youghal (Green Park: Devonshire Aj'jus) is the "Warden's House," the residence of Sir Walter Raleigh in 1588-89. It was there that he enter- tained Spenser when the poet was preparing his "Faerie Queene" for publication. It was also in Youghal that the first potato was planted in Ireland, by Raleigh. From Cappoquin the trav- eller may take the mail (jaunting-car) to Lismore, one of the most ancient towns in Ire- land, twice daily (Sundays excepted). Castle of the Duke of Devonshire, on the site of the old University ; visitors admitted. From Lismore the tourist can go by rail to Fermoy in 45 min. ; from Fermoy to Mallow, 46 min. : and from Mallow he may return to Cork, reaching there in the evening, or may go to Killarney.

Killarney, The Lakes, and Lake Region.

The traveller may go from Cork to Killarney by rail, via Mallow Junction, in about 3 hrs., 68f M. (lis. 6d., 8s. 4d., 5s.). This is the

IRELAND. Lakes of Killakney. 7

shortest, but the least interesting route. For those pressed for time, it is the best. By leav- ing Cork late in the afternoon one may reach Killarney in time to get a good night's rest, and, starting early on the following morning, may visit the most attractive points in the region, getting back to Mallow Junction in time to take a night train for Dublin. But those who are making a more leisurely tour will find them- selves well repaid for taking either of the two routes via Glengariff. One of these leads from Cork by rail through Bandon to Dunmanway, and thence by coach to Glengariff. {Roche's Hotel; Eccles'), thence to Kenmare {Lansdowne Arms), and so on through a barren and wild, but picturesque country, across the mountains, and down to Killarney. The most extensive view of Glengariff, a ravine about 3 M. long, and rich with yew, holly, and arbutus, is to be had from Old Berehaven road, near Cromwell's Bridge. The beautiful grounds around Glengariff Cattle are worth a visit. From Glengariff the journey may be extended to Bantry Bay either by land or water. The latter way is preferable, affording an excellent view of the bold coast scenery. But we would recommend none of these excursions to the seaside, unless the weather is entirely favorable. Nothing is drearier than an Irish wet day by the sea. The route from Cork to Macroom by rail, 24 M., and thence by jaunting- car to Glengariff, Kenmare, and Killarney, is highly spoken of by travellers who have taken it. Both these above-mentioned ways require two days, and a trip to Bantry Bay will take another half-day. In summer a coach runs from Cork to Killarney, in one day, but does not pass

8 IRELAND. Lakes of Killarney.

through the most interesting places. (Fare by this coach, 19s.) Macroom is the place where the Irish Bards held their meetings, and a fine ivy-mantled castle may be seen there. In the vicinity of Kenmare there are many lovely views; and the river or bay of Kenmare is by some considered the most beautiful on the Irish coast.

Killarney {Royal Victoria Hotel; Great South- em Railway; Lake; Muckross), population 5,000, lies about 1^ miles from the N. E. margin of Lough Leane, or the Lower Lake. It pos- sesses a cathedral, designed by Pugin, and a nunnery, with a school attached, where 400 girls are educated. The hotels generally command very good views of the lake and the mountains. The town is renowned for its beggars ; and for the artifice of the peasantry in extorting six- pences from travellers, in return for some trifiing and entirely superfluous service. Two days are required properly to see the lakes, the Gap of Dunloe, Muckross Abbey, and the Tore Cascade ; but if only one day can be given, the best plan is to engage a pony and ride from Killarney through the Gap of Dunloe to the head of the Upper Lake, having previously ordered a boat to be in readiness at Lord Brandon's Cottage on that lake. It is 15 M. from Killarney to this cottage, and many may prefer to walk rather than ride a stumbling horse, especially as they can rest in the boat while rowed down the lakes afterwards. Arrangements for horses, boats, etc., can usually be made at the hotels. The tariff is established by local lav/, and there is no occasion to give more.

IRELAND. Lakes of Killakxey. 9

The first object t)f interest on the road from Killarney to the Gap of Dunloe is a huge county lunatic asylum, and the next is the old ruin of Aghadoe, 2i M. from the town. All that remains of the once celebrated castle is a fragment of a tower. Near by is a church, consisting of two distinct chapels of unequal antiquity, lying E. and W. of each other. The W. chapel is in the Romanesque style, and was under the patronage of St. Finian. The E. chapel dates from 1158, is in the Pointed style, and was dedicated to the Holy Trinity. There are a few fine country- houses on the road beyond Aghadoe. LaJce View House, on the 1., was the residence of a brother of the great O'Conneil ; Beaufort House is attrac- tive; and Dunloe Castle, also on the 1., is cele- brated as having been one of the residences of the powerful O' Sullivan Mor. The present pro- prietor has restored the castle. About 2 M. from the entrance to the Gap is the Cave of Dunloe (in a field not far from the road). This cavern was opened in 1838 by some laborers digging a ditch, and was found to be roofed with impost stones, in the angles of which were inscriptions in the ancient Ogham character, supposed to have been used by the Druids before the introduction of Christianity into Ireland. This venerable storehouse of Irish history will have but small interest for the tourist, and he will do well to press on to the Gap. On his way thither he will pass the cabin in which the fair "Kate Kear- ney" once resided, and will doubtless be invited by one of her descendants to exchange sixpence or a shilling for a mysterious drink of goats' milk and whiskey.

10 IRELAND. Lakes of Killarney.

Of the Gap of Dunloe an. Irish writer has said : "It appears as if the vast range of moun- tains, of which this most singular ravine is composed, were cleft in twain by a mighty sword: one is not surprised at its appearance having given rise to such a tradition." It is a narrow defile 4 M. long, between the range of hills called "Macgillicuddy's Reeks" and the Purple Mt, a shoulder of the Tomies. The rapid stream called the Loc traverses the whole length of the glen, expanding at various places into five lakes known as the Cummeen Thomeen. The road is a mere bridlepath, sometimes on the very edge of precipices. The peasantry say that it was at the Black Lough, one of the small lakes, that St. Patrick banished the last snake from Ireland. Many travellers who are disap- pointed in the Gap of Dunloe find the view, just after leaving it, up what is called the Black Val- ley, extremely impressive. The Gap is bordered by rocky peaks varying from 2,000 to 3.400 feet in height; but the vast and desolate amphithe- atre of the Black Valley, with its rugged masses of darkened rock, its circular basins of still water filled with dissolvea peaty matter, and its wild and mysterious recesses, gives an impres- sion of grandeur and wonder which its neighbor ravine fails to produce. The view down the valley on a warm, hazy day is very striking. The water in the lakes throws back the light which it receives by reflection from the sky, and thus seems to be lighted from below.

At numerous points in the Gap and on the Lakes there are superb echoes, and there is no lack of peasants to awaken them, and to claim a fee for having done so. A narrow and rugged

IRELAND. Lakes of Killarney. 11

footpath leads down from the head of the Gap to Lord Brandon's Cottage, where the tourist who has ordered a boat before leaving Killar- ney will find it waiting for him. It is well to have lunch provided in the boat, so that one can take it as he is rowed down towards the Middle and Lower Lakes. From Lord Bran- don's Cottage one may ascend Purple Mountain (2,739 feet high), and from the summit get a fine view of the Upper and Middle Lakes and a long stretch of the sea-coast beyond ; but this would require half a day at least.

The Lakes.— From the cottage, across the Up- per Lake, 2^ M., the boatmen row so as to show the tourist the numerous pretty islands. The first of these m, McCarthy's; the second, Ar^hutus Island, completely covered with the beautiful plant whose name it bears. "The islands in the lakes of Cumberland," says the author of Black's Picturesque Tourist, "are either grassy holms, with sometimes a piece of yellow whin to catch the eye, or perhaps a solitary tree or shrub, or, if larger, such as St. Herbert's and Lord's Isle on Derwentwater, bearing shady groves of ash and plane, mixed with every other variety of forest trees. The islands on the Killarney Lakes have a totally different aspect, produced entirely by the presence of the arbutus {Aj'hutus unedo) . Even in winter the leaves are of a rich glossy green, and so clustered at the terminations of the branches that the waxen, flesh-like flowers, which hang in graceful racemes, or the rich crimson, strawberry-like fruit, seem cradled in a nest of verdure." The Upper Lake is thought by most people to be the finest of the three. On the S. lie the Derrycunihy mountain ranges, and

12 IRELAND. Lakes of Killaeney.

on the E. the high "Reeks." The Long Ramge is a river, rather 3 than 2 M. in length, connecting the Upper with the Middle Lake. Things to note here: Colman's Eye; The Man of War; The Four Friends, a group of islets ; The Eagle's Nest, a cliff which towers 700 feet above the river (the echoes heard from this point are re- markalbly fine) ; Old Weir Bridge, an ancient structure, under which the water rushes swiftly. The small boat is carried through at great speed, and floats into a still pool called the Meeting of Waters, near Dinish Island, and then into the Middle, which is also called Muckross, or Tore Lake. On Dinish Island there is a cottage where dinner may be had, if previously ordered from the hotel in Killarney in the morning. Tore Cascade can be visited from this point ; but it will be better to take this in conjunction with the visit to Muckross Abbey, a little farther on. Passing under Bricken Bridge, the boat enters Lough Leane, or the Loicer Lake. The. area of this is about 5,000 acres ; its greatest length 5 M., breadth 3 M. There are thirty islands, the principal one of which, the Ross, is the location of the last stronghold in Munster that surrendered to the Parliamentary army. The castle was built in the 14th century, by one of the O'Donoghues. The island of Innisfallen, midway in the lake, is celebrated in history and fiction ; and that keen observer, Arthur Young, said of it that it was "the most beautiful in the king's dominions, and perhaps in Europe." The ruins of the noted abbey are pointed out. The "Annals of Innisfallen," a kind of univer- sal history down to the time of St. Patrick, were written in the abbey about 600 years

IRELAND, MucKKOSS Abbey. 13

ago. The original copy of this curious work is now preserved in the Bodleian Library. In 1180 the abbey, into which all the treasures of the adjacent country had been gathered for safe keeping, was plundered by Mildwin, son of Daniel O'Donoghue. The boatmen will tell the traveller quite as much as he will care to hear about the past of "sweet Innisfallen." The part of the Lower Lake first entered is called Glena Bay. From the shore near Rabhit Island it is but a short walk to 0' Sullivan's Cascade.

Those who wish to visit Muckross Abbey on the same day as the Gap and Lakes, should arrange with their boatmen to land them at the point of the Lower Lake nearest to it. From the shore through the handsome estate of Mr. Herbert to the abbey is but a short walk. The noted ruins are those of a church and abbey, founded in 1440, partly restored in 1602, and still in decent preservation. In the church are many ancient tombs; among them, those of the O'Sullivans, M'Carthys, and O'Donoghue Mor. The arms of a gigantic yew-tree support the crumbling wall of a beautiful cloister. The trunk of the yew is 13 feet in circumference. Fees are not exacted here; but it is customary to give something. Muckross Abbey Mansion is a fine example of the Elizabethan style of architecture. Passing through the grounds, the visitor is ad- mitted at a small wicket (fee, 9d.) to the en- closure within which is the Tore Cascade. Climb up above the fall, which is 60-70 feet high, and look down upon it and out over the lakes. Vis- itors may, if they wish, drive or walk through the grounds of the Earl of Kenmare to Ross

14 IRELxlND. KiLLARNEY TO Dublin. ;

Island and Castle. The island is connected with . the mainland by a dike.

From Muckross to Killarney the distance is about 3^ M. The entire round trip is not very fatiguing. We recommend the tourist to ride the first 11 M. to the Gap ; walk 4 M. through the Gap to Lord Brandon's Cottage; then the 13 M. across the lakes to Muckross and the 3^ M. into Killarney can be done easily before dark.

Other Excursions from KillsiTney — Ascent of Mount Mangerton (z,756 ft.). On the way one comes to the "Devil's Punch Bowl/' a mountain Tarn 2,206 ft. above the sea level. It occupies a basin 28 acres in extent. Charles James Fox swam around it in 1772. Ascent of the Reeks: interesting, but somewhat difficult. Journey to Valentia : it is worth a day's ride on a jaunting- car to see the mighty waves beating against the rocky cliffs of the Atlantic coast. The train from

Killarney to Dublin (time, 7 hrs. ; fares, 34, 25, or 16s.) reaches the main line at Mallow Junction. Near Mallow are the ruins of Kilcolman Castle, where Ed- mund Spenser wrote the "Faerie Queene." He obtained, in 1586, a grani of land from for- feited estates of the Earl of Desmond, on con- dition that he should inhabit the country. In 1597 his castle was attacked by the native Irish, to whom he had rendered himself obnoxious, and his infant child perished in the flames which destroyed his home. He fled to London, and died of a broken heart. At Limerick Junc- tion the main line from Dublin to Cork is inter- sected by the Waterford and Limerick line.

IRELAND. Limerick. — Waterfokd. 15

Limerick (Royal Hotel; George; Qlent- wortJi), on tlie Shannon, "the noblest of Irish rivers," deserves a visit, which can be made in a day, including the return to the line to Dublin. Limerick has about 46,000 inhabitants, and con- tains a venerable cathedral transformed into a Protestant church, and a noble castle built in King John's time.

Waterford (Adelphia; hnperial) merits a visit, but is perhaps too far off the line of the vacation tourist. It is a handsome town of 26,000 inhabitants, on the Suir ; and was the scene of many terrible fights between the Irish and the Danes. Between Limerick Junction and Dublin there are many places of historical im- portance. From Goold's-Cros's Station it is but 5 M. across country to the Rock of Cashel, which rises 300 feet above the plain. Cashel was the residence of the Kings of Munster ; and there Henry II. received the homage of Donald, King of Liraerick, in 1172. Edward the Bruce also held a parliament there. Near Thurles are ruins of Holy-Cross At)l}ey. Just beyond Portar- lington the river Barrow is crossed on an iron viaduct 500 feet long. Kildare, "the city re- nowned for saints," is 30 M. from Dublin. It possesses the ruins of a cathedral ; and the Chapel of St. Brigid, t-alled the "Fire House" because it is the supposed location of the fire which nuns kept burning night and day for a thousand years "for the benefit of poor stran- gers," is still shown. The "Curragh," an ancient race-course, and now used as a military en- campment and practice ground for soldiers, is just beyond Kildare. Sham fights are sometimes given there in the summer months. Near Hazel-

16 IRELAND. Dublin.

hatch station is CeWriclge Ahhey, once the resi- dence of Swift's "Vanessa."

Dublin and Vicinity.

Two days can be spent to advantage in visit- ing Dublin, provided the weather be fair. May, June, and August are excellent months for the visit. But the hurried tourist can manage to secure a tolerable idea of the Irish capital by a ride of 3-4 hrs. on a jaunting-car, or by half a day's leisurely walk. Dublin (Shelbourne Hotel; Gi'esliam; Metropole; HiJ)erman; Edin- burgh, temperance) is a city of 40,000 inhabit- ants, on the river Liffey, which divides it into two nearly equal-parts, and, shortly below the town widens into a fine bay, on one side of which rises the Hill of Howth, and on the other Killiney Hill, near Kingstown. Those who do not dread sudden showers should engage an open car by the hr. (Is. 6d. for the first hr., and 6d. for each additional * hr.), and drive to the Bank of Ireland, Trinity College, Dublin Castle, Christ's Church Cathedral, St. Patrick's Cathe- dral, the General Post-Office, Nelson's Monument, the Custom House, the Four Courts, and finally to Phoenix Park. This will enable one to judge pretty well of the main exterior attractions. The shops in Dublin are quite as fine as those of London. The fine mall of Sackville-St, with its cut-granite Doric columns to Nelson, 121 ft. high, is imposing, from Carlisle Bridge. The Liffey is navigable to this bridge; but no large vessels come above the

Custom House, the finest building in the city. It is a handsome quadrangular structure, the

IRELAND. Dublin. 17

principal front of which faces the river. Notice the allegorical composition in the central por- tico. It represents Britannia and Hibernia in a marine shell, a group of merchantmen approach- ing, and Neptune driving away famine and de- spair. The dome is 120 feet high, and bears on its summit a statue of Hope. From Nelson's Monument, a good view of the city and suburbs may be obtained. Fee for ascent, 6d. The statue of the hero is the work of a native sculptor, Thomas Kirk ; and the sum of £6,856, which the memorial cost, was raised by sub- scription among Nelson's Irish admirers. The General Post-Office has a majestic Ionic portico, surmounted by figures of Hibernia, Mercurv, and Fidelity.

The Four Courts, on King's Inn Quay, is the name of a handsome building, in which are the Courts of Queen's Bench, Chancery, Exchequer, and Common Pleas. It was begun on the site of an old Dominican monastery in 1776, and was completed just at the time of the union of the two nations. Cost about i200,000. The fagade on the river is 450 feet long. The great circular hall in the centre is lighted by a torch borne in the hands of a gigantic figure of Truth. [ New buildings for the accommodation of the jLand Courts have recently been erected near by. ■ Phoenix Park contains 1,750 acres, fairly well ilaid out. Interesting reviews of troops are'some- times held there. Monuments in the Park.— The Wellincjtoii Testimonial, erected in 1817 at a cost of £20,000, by the Iron Duke's fellow- townsmen of Duulin. This quadrangular, trun- cated obelisk of Wicklow granite has sunken oanels on each side of its pedestal, containing

18 IRELAND. Dublin.

relievos in metal, three representing military pieces and the fourth containing the laurel- crowned head of the hero himself. The battles in which the Duke took part are inscribed here, and the bas-reliefs are made from captured can- non.— Tlie Carlisle Memorial statue, by Foley, in commemoration of Lord Carlisle's 8 years of vice-regency. On the r., near the entrance of the park, is the Military Hospital, and a little farther on the Constal)ulary Barracks. Within the park-limits the Lord-Lieutenant has a sum- mer residence. Zoological Gardens (admission. Is., on Sun. 2d.), not far away.

On the S. side of the river Liffey, and passing from Carlisle Bridge, through Westmoreland-St., at the E. side of which there is a statue of Tom Moore, one comes to the Bank of Ireland, in College Green. This was once used as the Par- liament House. It was completed in 1787, at a cost of £95,000, but was purchased in 1802 by the company of the Bank of Ireland for £40.000 and an annual rental of £240. The entrance to the former House of Lords was by a portico on the E. side. The House of Lords (visitors admitted) remains unaltered, except that statue of George HI. occupies the site of the throne. Old tapestries, representing the "Siege of Derry" and "King William Crossing the Boyne," are worthy of notice, as is also the mantel-piece of Kilkenny marble. Directly oppo- site the bank is Trinity College; and on either side of the entrance to it are the famous Statues of Goldsmith and Burke, by Foley. Trinity was founded in Pope John XXII. 's time, and was closed in Henry VIII. 's reign, but opened again by Elizabeth, who erected it into a corporation.

IRELAND. Dublin. 19

In 1627 a new code of laws was framed for it. The civil wars of the Protectorate brought its fortunes to a low ebb ; but James I. and Charles II. endowed it lib'erally. The institution, which is open to ail creeds, usually assembles about 1,400 students, and has educated some of the most renowned of modern wits. The Museum contains Brian Boroihme's harp and the charter- horn of King O'Kavanagh ; the noble dining- hall is decorated with portraits of Grattan, Lord Avonmore. Chief Justice Downs, Flood, Lord Kilwarden, Prince Frederick, father of George III., and Lord Cairns. Hewitsori's fine monu- ment to Provost Baldwin, in the building on the r. of the first courtyard, should be seen. The library contains nearly 300,000 volumes and 2,000 MSS'., and in the E. end is a very valuable col- lection known as the "Fagel Library." Note the Geological Museum and Lecture Rooms, in College Park. On College Green there is an equestrian statue in lead of William III., erected in 1701 ; and a statue of Grattan.

Dublin Castle requires but slight notice. Nearly all trace of its original design is now lost. The Vice-regal Chapel and Apartments, St. Patrick's Hall, the Portrait Chamber, and the Private Drawing Room are shown by the attend- ants for small gratuities, except during "the season." The stained-glass windows of the chapel contain the arms of all the Lord-Lieu- tenants. Good music in this chapel Sunday forenoon. Band plays in the courtyard mornings.

St. Patrick's Cathedral occupies the site of a religious edifice built by St. Patrick himself, near the well in which he baptized his converts. The present building was begun by Archbishop

20 IRELAND. Dublin.

Comyn in 1190, and restored and much improved, after the destruction of a portion of it by fire, under the care of Archbishop Minot, in 1370. Monuments worth notice inside : one to Boyle, Earl of Cork ; and one to the Duke of Schom- berg, with an epitaph by Swift, who was long Dean of the Cathedral. Two marble slabs mark the resting-place of Swift and his "Stella" (Mrs. Hester Johnson). Sir B. L. Guinness, the brewer, had the cathedral repaired and largely restored in 1860-63, at a cost of il40,000. The choir and side aisles were restored in 1900 by his son. Lord Iveagh. and a new organ, cost- ing £6,000, was built in over the north aisle. The Lady Chapel was built by George IV. as Chapter House for the Knights of St. Patrick.

Christ's Church Cathedral is of ancient founda- tion ; but the present structure is comparatively modern. It was first erected in 1038, and en- larged in later days by Strongbow and Fitz- stephen, and still later by Raymond-le-Gros. It was in Christ Church that the liturgy was first read in Ireland in the English tongue. Note Earl Strongbow's monumental tomb. The local guides will tell you the various conflicting reports con- cerning its authenticity. As St. Patrick's owed its restoration to a brewer, so did this edifice to a distiller, Mr. Henry Roe. who expended £220,- 000 on it. Stephen's Green is a handsome square surrounded with fine mansions. On the W. side is the Royal College of Surgeons, erected in 1806- 25. E. side : Royal College of Seience. In centre of Green, a statue of George II., by Van Nest. S. side: the Catholic University, the palace of the Archbishop of Dublin, Wesley College, and the Shelbourne Hotel. On Earlsfort Terrace is the

IRELAND. Dublin. 21

palace in which the Dublin Exhibition of 1872 was held. It was purchased by Sir Arthur and E. C. Guinness, and devoted to the public benefit, and is now the home of the Royal University. It contains a concert hall capable of seating 3,000 persons.

Other Interesting Sights in Diiblin. — The Royal Hihetmian Academy, erected in 1824 for the pro- motion of the fine arts (exhibition opens in Feb- ruary; closes in July). The National Gallery, with a statue of Dargan in front of the N. side of Leinster Lawn. The Science and Art Museum, the National Ml)rai'y, and the Museum of Nat- ural History. The College Botanic Gardens at Lansdowne Road. Merrion-Rotv and Merrion- St. : the house in which Wellington was born in 1769; and at 30 Merrion-Square, the mansion where Daniel O'Connell resided for some years. Birthplace of Tom Moore, 12 Aungier-St. Royal Duhlin Society, and King's and Queen's College of Physicians, in Kildare-St. The City Hall, with Hagan's statue of O'Connell inside. The Corn Exchange, the meeting-place of the National Council in 1832, and of the Repeal Association later on. Conciliation Hall, now a corn store, but the scene of many of O'Connell's triumphs. Theatre Royal, Hawkins-St. The Poplin Manu- factories : Dublin poplins are famous ; and the industry is rapidly reviving.

Excursions from Dublin. — To Glasnevin Ceme- tery, where are graves and fine monuments of O'Connell, Steele, and Curran, 2 M. from the city. Botanic Gardens, near by, — Duhlin to Howth : Several trains daily. Distance, 9 M. The penin- sular Hill of Hoivth is the first landmark sighted on approaching Dublin from the sea. The route

22 IRELAND. Drogheda.— Bray.

leads past Clontarf, the scene of Brian Boroihme's last victory over the Danes, to Howth, a pleas- ant village on the hill. From the harbor an ex- cursion in boat may be made to the island of "Ireland's Eye." Boatman's fee, 2s. The Abbey of Howth is pleasantly located on a steep over- hanging the ocean. On the Hill of Howth stands an ancient Cromlech, a huge oblong stone, about 14x12, supported on numerous others. It is sup- posed to be a portion of a sepulchral monument to a departed chief. — Malahide {Grand Hotel), 9 M. from Dublin, has a notable castle and abbey. The altar-tomb in the ruined abbey is a m.emo- rial of the sad history of the lady who in one day was "maid, wife, and widow," — the daughter of Lord Plunkett. — Drogheda {Central; White Horse), 14 hours by rail from Dublin. This was the first place attacked by Cromwell in 1649. and was carried by assault, led by the Protector him- self. Drogheda was also the scene of the "Battle of the Boyne, fought. July L 1690, between the Prince of Orange and his father-in-law, James IL An obelisk 150 ft. high marks the spot where William began the attack and where Schomberg fell. From Drogheda, Tara and Kells may be visited.

From Dnhlin to Bray and the Wicklow Mts. is a charming excursion. Bray, 12 M. from Dublin ( Station Hotel: International) , beautifully situ- ated; headquarters for trips to the Dargle (car, 2s.). to the Waterfall (car. 4s.). to the Glen of the Downs (car. 3s. 6d.). to Greystones (car, 4s. 6d.). From Bray to the Devil's Glen, the Seven Churches, and the Vale of Avoca, where "the bright waters meet." is a profitable .iourney. Go by rail from Bray to Rathnew Stat, from Rath-

IRELAND. Kingston. 23

new by car to Devil's Glen, from Devil's Glen by car to tbe "Meeting of the Waters," in all about 38 M., and return by rail to Bray, 28 M. — From Bray to Wickloic. along tbe coast by rail — desir- able journey in bright weather. The Wicklow Mt. section is rich in quiet beauty ; the rly. fares along the coast are moderate, and car-drivers must be held to the tariff. Purchase one of the excellent local guides, for descriptions of the scenery.

If the tourist decides to go to Wales and Eng- land via Dublin and Holyhead, he can go to Holyhead via the North Wall route for 8s. or 4s., or via Kingstown for 12s. or 8s. We think most American tourists prefer the latter route. By rail from Dublin to Kingstown, 6 M., thence across the Irish Channel, 66 M., 4 hrs. There nre two through services to London daily — one leaving Dublin at 6.45, evening ; the other at 6.45, morning. Tourists who wish to make the jour- ney by day would better go to Kingstown in the evening, and sleep on the boat which is to start next morning. This will cost 2s. extra. Then they can breakfast at their leisure — if the Irish Channel leaves them any leisure. If the weather is fine some interesting views on the Irish and Welsh Coasts may be had during the crossing to Holyhead.

KingstovfuiRoyal Marine Hotel ;AngleseaAr7ns) is so called because George IV. landed there on a visit to Ireland. An obelisk commemorates the royal landing. The refuge harbor embraces an area of 250 acres. Before the present admirable system of "Irish Lights" was completed, many serious accidents to shipping occurred near Kingstown.

24 IRELAND. Maynooth. — Galway.

From Dublin to Galway.

This route takes one from the E. to the "wild west coast," in 5i hrs. (fares, 23s. 8d., 19s. 8d., lis. lOd.) ; distance, 126^ M. Glasnevin. where Addison, Swift, Tickell, Sheridan, and other cele- brities resided ; and Maynooth, where there is a castle erected in 1426 by the Earl of Kildare, and the Royal College of St. Patrick, — are in- teresting. At MuUingar are the remains of an Augustiuian Priory. AthJone is an important mili- tary station. Not far from here the Shannon is crossed by a magnificent bridge. Just beyond Woodlawn, the Connemara Mts. become visible to the r. Athenry is an ancient town, with ruined castellated gates, walls, and religious es- tablishments. At Oranmore a view of Galway Bay and the Islands of Arran may be obtained. From Athlone a car may be taken to Auburn, 8 M. (fare 6d. per M.). Auburn is "The Deserted Village" of Goldsmith, and its real name is Lis- hoy ; but since the famous Oliver gave it the name of Auburn, it has always retained it. The most interesting relic in the village is the ruined parsonage, where the Rev. Charles Goldsmith, the original of Dr. Primrose in the "Vicar of Wakefield," struggled for the maintenance of his large family.

Galway (Railway Hotel at the station: Royal) is a quaint old town, rather Spanish in appearance, with wide gateways, broad stairs, and many other evidences of the predominance of Spanish ideas in former times. For a long period during and after the 14th century, exten- sive trade was carried on between Spain and Galway, and Irish merchants made frequent and

IRELAND. Dublin to Belfast. 25

protracted visits to Spain. Some of the resi- dences of the merchant princes of old days are now tenement houses, occupied by the very poor- est and lowest class. Queen's College is a hand- some Gothic structure, built of gray limestone. Galway Bay is the finest in Ireland; and the distance to St. Johns, Newfoundland, is 1,636 M. The Western Highlands of Connemara, and the County Clare, including the region rendered famous by the troubles of landlords and tenants in the last few years, abound in fine scenery. The road from Galway to Clifden and Westport, 88 M. (car fares about 14s. 6d.), passes through the most attractive part of the region. West- port (Railway Hotel; Gleio Bay) is a pretty town ; and the domain of the Marquis of Sligo should be visited. See Clare Island, the ancient residence of Grace O'Malley.

Dublin to Belfast, Portrush, The Giant's Cause- way, etc.

In leaving Dublin for this excursion, the trav- eller must consider whether he intends to return to Dublin and cross to England via Kingstown and Holyhead, or to cross from Belfast to Glas- gow or Liverpool or Fleetwood. If he means to come back to Dublin, let him proceed thence directly to Portrush, which is the nearest sta- tion to The Giant's Causeway, Dunluce Castle, etc. The fare to Portrush (180 M.) is 32s., 23s. 8d., 14s. 9d. The route is by Malahide; The Skerries, where Saint Patrick is said to have taken shelter when he was pursued by the Druids ; BaWriggan, famous for its stocking fac- tories; Drogheda; Dundalk, where Edward

26 IRELAND. Giant's Causeway.

Bruce was crowned King of Ireland ; Portadown Junction; Lurgan, a flourishing town engaged in linen manufactories; Belfast; Antrim, not far from Lough Neagh ; and Coleraine, long noted for the fineness of its linens.

Portrush (Northern Counties; Raihcay; Neiv Golf; Lansdoirne, temperance; Portrush) is a pleasant watering-place. The Causeway may be reached by the electric tramway passing through Bushmills, or by jaunting-car. On the way the tourist passes Dunluce Castle, unquestionably one of the most picturesque ruins in Europe. It is 3 M. from Portrush, on an insulated rock about 100 feet above the sea. The surface of the rock is entirely covered by the ruins of what must have been an impregnable stronghold. A single wall, not more than IS inches broad, con- nects the castle with the mainland. Sea view very fine here. Fee, 6d. to Is., according to size of party. "The White Rocks," in which there are many fantastic caverns, are not far from Dun- luce.

The Giant's Causeway. — On arriving engage guide at the Causeivay Hotel. The basaltic rocks are abundant along the coast here, but the most interesting formations occur Detween Portcoon Cave, on the W., and Dunseverick Castle, on the E. If the tourist has time, he should take the circuit first in a boat, and then visit the more important of the curiosities by land. See the Cause- ways, Little, Middle, and Great ; the Giant's Gate- way ; Giant's Organ ; Chimney Tops ; the Priest and his Flock ; the Pleaskin ; and the Hen and Chickens. There is a route from the Giant's Causeway to Belfast by the coast road, recom- mended only to those in no hurry. A whole day

IRELAND. Belfast. 27

must be given to the trip from Portrush to the Causeway and return.

Londonderry (Jury's Hotel; Imperial : Ulster; Northern) is on the river Foyle. Memorials of the historic "Siege of Derrj-" are numerous. Ascend the tower of the Cathedral. The old walls of the town are still preserved as a prom- enade. From Londonderry to Portrush it is 2 hrs. by rail (Ts. 6d., 5s. 6d., 3s. 8d.) ; from Portrush to Belfast it is 3 to 4 hrs. (12s., 8s., 5s. 4d.).

Belfast (Imperial; Graticl Central; Royal; Station; Balmoral, temperance) will remind American visitors of some of our own thriving manufacturing towns ; and the contrast between its smartness and vivacity and the dullness and languor of cities in the South of Ireland will be remarked at once. In 40 years the population has increased from 87,000 to 350,000. Two-thirds of the inhabitants are Protestants. The town stands on the property of the Marquis of Done- gal ; and it is said that but for long leases granted by the former proprietor, the income of that nobleman from the town alone would amount to i300,000. Belfast is situated on the Lagan, near the elongated bay known as Belfast Lough. The port is 130 M. from Glasgow, and 156 M. from Liverpool. The Irish name of the town signifies "the mouth of the ford." The new docks are very fine. On the Queen's Island is an iron shipbuilding yard, employing nearly 2,000 hands. The White Star steamships are. built there. Buildings to notice : Presbyterian C/l. Rosemary-St. ; Royal Academical Institution and Government School of Art; Commercial Buildings; Ulster Bank: Belfast Bank; Custom House, High-St, and Albert Square; the Harbor

28 IRELAND. Belfast.

Office; the Linen Hall, with the Belfast Lihrary ; Queen's College, reached by the Botanic Road; Preshyterian College, University Square; Metho- dic College. Other things to see: Botanic Gar- dens, the Cooke statue, Belfast Museum, and The Flax Mills and Linen Warehouses. Visitors are readily admitted to most of the mills.

Excursions from Belfast. — To Cave Hill; to the Giant's Ring; to Dundalk; to Bangor, the chief watering-place for the inhabitants of Bel- fast; and to Lord Dufferin's estate of Clande- J)oye, 9 M. from the city.

The traveller now has his choice of various routes for leaving Ireland. If he desires to go direct from Belfast to Greenock or Glasgow, he can do so by the Royal Mail Steamship Line, daily service (Sun. excepted) ; time, 8 hrs., fare, 12s. 6d. The routes by sea from Belfast to Liv- erpool and to London can be recommended only to those who have a passion for sea travel. Fare to Liverpool, 12s. 6d. ; to London, 25s. A boat leaves Belfast Monday. Wednesday, and Friday at 7.45, for Barrow-in-Furness ; fare, 12s. 6d. Also Belfast to Heysham, daily except Sunday, and Belfast to Fleetwood, daily except Sunday, all by night run. Through tickets to London (45s. 6d. or 21s. 3d., by the Midland Rly., 1st and 3d class only.

NORTH WALES. Holyhead.

NORTH WALES.

HOLYHEAD (Station Hotel, Tre-Arrdur Bay, 2 miles from the station) affords a pic- turesque introduction to some of the most ro- mantic portions of Wales. Those not obliged to proceed at once to Chester, Liverpool, or London, can spend 2 or 3 days with pleasure and profit at points along the line. Holyhead stands on Holy Island, divided by a small strait from Anglesea or Anglesey, and takes its name from a monastery founded in the 6th century. Good view from the hill of the rocky shores (the North Stack and the South Stack with its light- house), the harbor of refuge, and the massive breakwater. The promontory of the head is hol- lowed by the ocean into caverns, which afford shelter to myriads of seafowl. There are im- portant Roman remains here. The Ch. was erected in Edward III.'s time. The neighboring island of Anglesea or Mona, rich in minerals, was a principal seat of Druidical superstition. It was conquered with the rest of Wales by Ed- ward I. The Britannia Tuhular Bridge, one of the wonders of Great Britain, is crossed about 21 M. from Holyhead. This, as well as the Menai Suspension Bridge, may be visited from Bangor. Engineers will be interested in the Con- way and Britannia bridges, and in noting how the idea that budded in the first structure has fully blossomed in the later and larger one. The Britannia bridge is 1,513 feet long and consists of a wrought iron tube resting on piers over 100

30 NORTH WALES. Bangok.

feet above the water. The vast tubes were nor placed where they now rest without enormous painstaking and trouble. One of the spans is 472 ft. in length, and, as it is composed entirely of iron, expands and contracts with the changes of temperature. To meet the difficulty, the ends of the tubes rest on movable rollers, and thus maintain the line of rail perfect. The Menal Suspension Bridge, 1 M. nearer Bangor, is also a stupendous work. Its greatest span from point to point is 560 feet, and its elevation above the water-way at the highest tiae is 100 feet. It is the longest suspension bridge in England or Wales. It was built in the old coaching days, in the early part of the century. After crossing this bridge, you have left the island of Anglesea and are on the mainland.

Bangor {George, about a mile from the sta- tion ; Railicay, North Western, Wiliianis' Tem- perance, near the station ; Castle, near the Cathe- dral) lies in a valley between two great rocky ridges. On the N. is the pretty bay of Beaumaris. See Cathedral, with monuments of numerous Welsh princes ; the palace of the Bishop of Ban- gor, and charitable institutions ; and walk to the Menai Bridge. Mt. scenery fine. The cathedral was built in the 6th century, destroyed by the Anglo-Normans in the 11th, rebuilt in the 12th, and burned by Owen Gwyndwr in 1402. The present structure dates from the 16th century, and is a massive construction, with a tower of moderate height. Bangor is in the oldest dio- cese in Wales. In the vicinity is a slate quarry of immense extent, in which as many as 2,000 persons are at times employed. Admission to quarries free, but guide expects a tip. 70,000

NORTH WALES. Conway. 31

tons of slate are yearly shipped from Port Pen- rhyn. See the castle of Lord Penrhyn, in whose family the quarries are owned ; Tuesday and Thursday (when family is absent) by ticket 2s., and Is. for each additional member of the party. The railway skirts the shore of Beaumaris Bay; passes through Penmaenmaicr, near which is a mountain of the same name, 1,540 feet high ; through the Penbach Tunnel ; and, just before reaching Conway, traverses the Conway Tubular Bridge, erected by Stephenson in 1848. It con- sists of two hollow rectangular tubes of wrought- iron plates, for the up and down trains, each measuring 410 feet and weighing 1140 tons. Conway (Castle; Oakwood Park, 1 mile from station) has a ruined castle of much historic interest. This superb ruin is situated on a rock, guarded on two sides by the Conway River. It was built by Edward I. During the civil wars the fortress, flanked by eight embattled towers, was garrisoned for the King, but the Parlia- mentary army took it. Charles II. gave it to the Earl of Conway, who stripped off the pre- cious stores of timber, iron, and lead. It now belongs to the Marquis of Hertford. The mas- sive walls of the town, with their towers and gateways, are still in good condition. Among the odd old houses in Conway is the Plas Maivr. erected in 1577 by -Robert Wynne, which is worth a visit. In the church of St. Mary there are several monuments to members of the Wynne family, one to Nicholas Hooks, the 41st child in his father's family, and one to the sculptor, John Gibson. See The College in Castle-St., now in- habited by poor families. On the S. E. side of Great Orme's Head, 4 M. by rail from Con-

32 NORTH WALES. Caernarvon.

way, is the fashionable watering-place of Llan- dudno {Imperial, Marine, on the Uplands; GroMd; Gogath AMey, on the bay). Great Orme's Head and Little Orm&s Head on two rugged cliffs, on which is the beautiful Marine Drive. The Piei\ 1,250 feet long (2d., during the day; 6d. in the evening) is much frequented.

Tourists who have a few days to spend in North Wales can make a variety of interesting excursions from Bangor or Conway. From the former point they may visit Caernarvon or Car- narvon {Royal; Royal Sportsman) an ancient town, situated partly on the Menai Strait and partly on the estuary of the Seiont. Caerna- von's chief object of interest is the Castle erected by Edward I., where (in the Eagle Tower) Ed- ward II., the first English Prince of Wales was born. It occupies the w^hole W. end of the town. Years ago it seemed as if fast going to ruin, and in 1828 the Eagle Tower (so named from the figure of the bird standing on its sunnuit) was struck by lightning, which cracked the walls sev- eral yards, and displaced large masses of stone. But great pains have since been taken to restore the fabric, and it stands today a grand and beau- tiful structure. On two sides it is washed by the sea, on the third it was formerly protected by a moat and on the fourth it was shut in by the town. Caernarvon is probably only about ^ M, from the site of Segontium, the principal Roman station in North Wales. The view from Eagle Tower is remarkably good. See . the Terrace, outside the town walls, also Druidical circles in the neighborhood. It is not quite 9 M. by rail from Bangor to Caer- narvon, and in good weather a tramp along

NORTH WALES. Llaxbeeis. — Rhyl. 33

the highway between the two towns will be found enjoyable. From Caernarvon the Snow- donian region is easy of access. Roman ruins abound in the vicinity. Llanberis {Victoria, Doldabarn, near station: Snoicdon Valley, in the town ) , from which point Snowdon ( 3,571 feet high ) may be ascended, is reached by rail from Caernar- von. The ascent of Snowdon from here is not diffi- cult, and the view from the summit on a fine day is well worth the climb. Llanl)eris and Nant Ffrancon are two of the finest passes in Wales, and the latter is especially beautiful. The road through it winds under frowning precipices ; and Lake Ogwen's inky-black water breaks through a chasm in the rock into numerous cascades, some of them 100 feet high, that find their way into the rich vale extending N. to Bethesda and Bangor. A good trip would be from Bangor to Caernarvon; thence to Llanberis and through the Pass to Capel Curig; thence to Bettws-y- Coed, the "Station in the Wood," a delicious sylvan retreat, where Coe painted some of his most beautiful pictures. Near by are the Falls of the Conicay. From LlanTyeris a coach (15 miles, fare, 5s.) runs to Becldgelert (Saracen's Head), a charming Welsh village most pictur- esquely situated.

Returning to the main line, the tourist will find but two or three other points worthy notice between Conway and Chester. Abergele (Bee Hotel) is near Cave Hill, where there is a fine natural cavern ; and the mountain pass in which the Welsh defeated Harold and, later on, mas- sacred the troops of Henry II. Mrs. Hemans lived for many years at Abergele. Rhyl (West- minster; Queen's Belvoir) is a pretty watering-

34 NORTH WALES. Holywell.

place. A branch railway runs thence to the little Welsh cathedral-town of St. Asaph {Plough), and to Denbigh {Crown), a venerable hill-town with many very quaint old houses, and a stately ruined Castle, on the hill. At Holywell the famous St, Winifred's Well is to be seen (2d.). Flint Castle, on a rocli by the sea, was once the prison of Richard II, 13 M. beyond the train crosses the Dee, leaving Wales.

i

ENGLAND. Chester. 35

ENGLAND.

CHESTER (Ch'osvenor; Queen's, at the sta- tion; Westminster, temperance). The curious features of this delightful town (40,000 inhabitants) may be seen in a single day (or, with the aid of a carriage, in 3 or 4 hrs.). The traveller who has not already made up his mind should here decide whether he will go directly to London, or N. to the English Lakes, and thence to Scotland. To those who contemplate making an extensive tour on the Continent, and returning to the British Islands only late in September or October, we would recommend a trip from Chester to Liverpool, and thence, after having seen the sights in that city and in Chester and vicinity, direct to the English Lakes ajid Scotch mountains. But many persons will probably wish to go to London and the Conti- nent at once, for a season, returning N. in August and resuming our English and Scotch itinerary from Chester or Liverpool.

Ancient Chester, on its pretty eminence, is sufficiently quaint and filled with ruins to satisfy the most curious of Transatlantic travellers. Some kind of town existed on this site before the Roman invasion, but it was the Romans who made the definite foundation. They chose this place as one of their principal military stations, called it the "City of the Legions," and made it the castra of the Twentieth Legion. Vast walls still occupy the same ground and carry out the identical plan chosen and arranged by the Ro-

36 ENGLAND. Chester.

man leaders. Chester was laid waste in the early part of the 7th century by ^Ethelfrith. King of the Northumbrians ; and then the memo- rials of the Roman sojourn were greatly in- jured. For nearly three centuries the town lay in ruins. In 907 Alfred the Great's daughter, Ethelfleda, restored the ruined walls which the Danes had from time to time used as temporary strongholds ; and from that day Chester became important in English history. It was the very last city to hold out against William the Con- queror ; and a nephew of the great Norman was made Earl of Chester, and built a castle there. Chester was especially prominent in the Civil War as the first city to declare for Charles, and the last to yield to the Parliamentary forces.

A Walk around the Old Walls may be begun at East Gate, near the Grosvener or Blossom's Hotel. Going N. one comes first to the Cathedral (described below). Next beyond it, at the angle of the walls where they turn W. to the North Gate, is the Phoenix Tower, on which Charles I. stood during the battle of Rowton Moor and gazed on the defeat of his army, Sept. 24, 164.5. See inscription. Under the walls at this point is the Shropshire Union Canal, cut in the solid rock. Moving on towards the North Gate, the original Roman walls, terminating in a cornice 6 feet below the parapet, may be seen. From this gate there is an extensive view of the Welsh mountains and of Waverton and Christleton churches. Just outside the gate is an ancient Blue Coat Hospital. A little farther on, from a square building on the right side of the wall, there is a view of the river and the sea, Flint Castle, the Training College, etc. Another tower,

ENGLAND. Chester. 37

once known as the Goblin's, but now called Pemberton's Parlor, comes next. It bears a mutilated inscription about the "glorious reign ' of Anne." The Water Tower, as its name indi- cates, was once closely approached by ships ; but the river is now a long way from the walls. This part of the fortifications was bombarded by Cromwell in 1645. Within the tower is a museum ; on its summit, a telescope. See rail- way viaduct and iron bridge over the Dee, near this point. The City Jail is an imposing struc- ture. From the Water Gate note the Rhoodee race-course, and beyond the river the fine villas of Curzon Park. Grosvenor Bridge, which spans the stream, has a span of 200 feet. Over the river, in Edgar's Field, is a statue of Pallas. The Castle, next approached, is a noble pile, erected in the last century on the site of the ancient one. "Caesar's Tower" is the only rem- nant of the old structure. See near the Castle the Comhermere Monument and the SMre Hall, Drill in the Castle yard afternoons. Walk on over the Bridge Gate, rebuilt in 1782, to New Gate (1608), and thence to East Gate. Outside the walls, between Bridge and East Gates, is the church of St. John the Baptist, founded in 689, and rebuilt in 1574.

The Cathedral was begun in the 12th century, and the choir and central tower were finished in the early years of the 13th. The lady chapel, refectory, and chapter-house are said to have been constructed 1200-1230. Many portions were greatly altered in the period between 1485 and 1537. The church is almost entirely built of red sandstone, plentiful in the district. The restorations carried on for several years past

38 ENGLAND. Chester.

have proved highly successful. The E. portion is an excellent example of Early English style. The choir is beautiful : note the Gothic work at the sides ; also the richly carven Gothic screen of stone, which separates the nave from the choir; the bishop's throne, formed by the shrine of St. Werburgh of miraculous memory ; and the black and white marble pavement in the choir. The W. front, though unfinished, is the best. The lector's pulpit in the refectory ; the colors of the 22d Cheshire regiment, carried at Bunker Hill, in the chapter-house; and the great W. window of the nave, should be remarked. The stained- glass windows are modern. The cathedral's interior is not so imposing as its exterior. Tra- dition says that a Roman temple to Apollo once stood on the site. The foundation of two tow- ers, never completed, was laid in 1508. The Rows, covered avenues or galleries through the fronts of the second stories of the houses in Eastgate, Watergate, Northgate, and Bridge Sts. (the old Roman ways), are one of the most striking features of Chester. Pennant says that these Rows may be a form of building preserved from the time that the city was possessed by the Romans. "They were the places where de- pendants watched for the coming out of their patrons, and in which they might walk away the tedious minutes of expectation. Plnutus, in the third act of his MosteUaria. describes both their station and use. The shops beneath the Rows were the crypts and apothec?p, maga- zines for the various necessaries of the owners of the houses." Many of the Rows to-day form two terraces, the shops one above the other, the galleries reached by flights of steps at con-

ENGLAND. Eaton Hall. 39

venient distances. Old Houses, remarkable for their curious carvings and for historical asso- ciations, are very numerous in Chester. Note the palace of the Earls of Derby, near the Water Gate ; and on Lower Bridge-St., leading from Bridge Gate, the house in which Charles I. resided during the siege. A Roman sweating- bath may be seen in one of the houses of the Bridge-St. Row. There are several Roman crypts, a thousand years old, beneath the an- cient buildings. The Museum contains Roman coins and other objects. The Church of St. John the Baptist, dating from the Norman conquest, is now an inspiring ruin.

Eaton Hall, one of the country-seats of the Duke of Westminster, is 3 miles from Chester. Tickets of admission to the grounds and mansion cost Is. 6d., the proceeds being expended in charity. The house is an elaborate structure, with a great number of pinnacles and turrets, and is 460 feet long The walk thither, over Grosvenor Bridge and through the Park, entering by a gateway copied from the Abbey Gate at Canterbury, is very interesting. The marble floor in the entry alone cost 1,600 guineas. There are a few noticeable paintings at Eaton Hall.

From Chester important lines of railway radi- ate in all directions. The traveller may pro- ceed to Liverpool, via Runcorn, crossing the celebrated Runcorn Bridge and its viaducts. The entire length of this structure is 2 1/6 miles. The bridge is approached upon the Runcorn Via- duct, carried by 33 arches, 1 of 23 ft. span, 29 of 40 ft. span, and 3 of 61 ft. span. The viaduct is carried over the river Mersey at a height of 80 ft. by 3 girders of 305 ft. span, each supported

40 ENGLAND. Liverpool.

upon 4 castellated piers, stretching over a dis- tance 27 3/8 chains. The total cost of the struc- ture was £422,400, of which £41,800 was paid for land. One may also go from Chester to Birken- head, and across from this latter place to Liver- pool by ferry ; or he may w^alk through East- ham, Bebington, etc., to Rock Ferry, and there cross to Liverpool. We recommend a visit to Chester from Liverpool for those who have made their first entry into Europe at the great sea- port. If Liverpool has somewhat shocked their aesthetic sense, and disappointed their expecta- tions of romance in Europe, Chester will reestab- lish their enthusiasm.

Liverpool (AdelpJii; Northwoitern Railway; Lancashire and Yorkshire; St. George; Grand; Shaftesbury, temperance. Restaurants : Sains- hury's; Bear's Paw; State) is the port at which many tourists from the United States first land. It is a city of over 750,000 inhabitants, the sec- ond seaport in the United Kingdom, and pos- sesses the finest docks in the world. See the "Chapter for Travellers" for instructions as to Landing at Liverpool. Liverpool is essentially a modern town. In 1561 it was a hamlet ; in 1644 Prince Rupert called it "a crow's nest" ; but in 1871 it numbered half a million. Liver- pool's importance dates from the upspringing of the cotton manufacture in England. There have been years in which the value of its exports has been twice as great as that of the exports from London ; 30,000 seamen constantly throng its quays. Its public buildings are as new as those of American cities. There is scarcely one older than the present century.

The Docks, some parts of which may be seen

ENGLAND. Liveepool. 41

from the steamers ascending the Mersey, de- serve a careful visit. Liverpool lies on the right bank of the river Mersey ; opposite it is the im- portant town of Birkenhead; and the "silent highway" between is thronged with ships from every part of the globe. The dock system ex- tends from the Herculaneum Graving Dock to the N. part of the Hornby Dock, a distance of 6 M. An electric elevated road, running from Sea- forth Sands to Dingle, passes by the whole line of docks (3d., 2d.). All intervening space is filled with docks and quays, two and sometimes three deep. The Canning, Salthouse, George's, King's, Queen's, and Brunswick Docks, and the Queen's and Prince's Half-Tide Basins, were constructed between 1717 and 1816. In the King's Dock and warehouses are stored and bonded immense quantities of leaf tobacco and cigars. Railways communicate by tunnels di- rectly with the dock system. The total quay space of the Liverpool docks is estimated at 26 M. ; of the basins, 8 M. ; and the total water area of the docks, 389 acres. The Prince's Land- ing Stage is a noble work. It is said that nearly 1/3 of the trade of the port is with the United States. The town possesses 1/10 ' of the shipping of Great Britain, 1/3 of the ) foreign trade, 1/6 of the general commerce, and

more than 1/2 as much as the port of Lon-

f don.

[ St. George's Hall is one of the most con- j spicuous objects in Liverpool. It is a vast and [ imposing structure, completed in 1851, and con- ! tains the Assize Courts, an immense hall for public meetings, and a concert room. The por- tico on the S. is very fine. It surmounts a

42 ENGLAND. Liverpool.

pedestal of noble steps, 150 feet wide, terminat- ing in a pediment, the tympanum of which is enriched by sculptures representing Britannia offering the olive branch, with the lion at her side and the Mersey flowing at her feet. Mer- cury is represented as leading to her from the other side Asia. Europe, Africa, and America. In the great hall is one of the largest organs in the world, with 108 stops and 8,000 pipes.- See the bronze doors which lead to the Crown Court. In front of St. George's Hall are stat- ues of the Prince Consort and Queen Victoria. Four stone lions guard the principal entrance to the area between the hall and Lime-St. Not far away is the Alexandra Theatre. The Wel- lington Monument, cast from cannon taken at Waterloo, is also near St. George's Hall. A little to the N. is Broicn's Free Pi(J)Ue Library and Museum, built at the expense of the late Sir William Brown. Near by is the Walker Fine Arts Gallery.

The Municipal Offices, in Dale-St. the Toim Hall the Exchange, which covers two acres in the commercial quarter, are handsome edifices. On the Exchange Flags, where the merchants meet, stands a bronze statue of Nelson, by West- macott. aS'^ John's Market, a vast structure, is on Great Charlotte-St. The Custom House and Post-Office, at the junction of Strand-St. and Wapping, has beneath it extensive vaults for the storing of goods in bond. See the Sailors* Home, close by.

Other Objects of Interest in Liverpool. — The Botanic Gardens, in Edge Lane. The Corn Ex- change, on Brunswick-St. St. Nicholas' Church, the only real antiquity in Liverpool. The orig-

ENGLAND. Birkenhead. 43

inal chapel was built in the time of William the Conqueror. In old times a statue of St. NicJiolas, patron of mariners, stood in the yard. The church was restored in 1774. The tower facing the S. side was erected as one of a series of "signal steeples." Prince's and Stmiley Parks; from the latter a good view of the sea and the Cumberland Hills. St. James' Cemetery, formerly a stone quarry, and filled for Its present pur- pose at an expense of £20,000. The Maiisoleutn of Huskisson is here. Sefton Park: purchased at a cost of £450,000 from the Earl of Sefton. Estates and Residences of NoWemen near Liv- erpool: Knowsley Hall, owned by the Earl of Derby (see the Stanley portraits there) ; Croxteth Hall, the Earl of Sefton's seat; Child- wall Abbey, a residence of the Marquis of Salis- bury. Excursions may be made from Liverpool to Neiv Brighton, down the river by ferry-boat from the George's Landing stage ; and to East- hafn, a pretty pleasure-resort.

Preston {Park; Alea-ander, temperance), about 35 miles from Liverpool, with 130.000 inhabit- ants, contains many cotton mills. It was here that the modern temperance movement in Great Britain began. Twenty miles further is Lan- caster (King's Arms), the county seat of Lan- cashire, with 50,000 inhabitants. If a stop is made here the Storey Art Gallery, the Corpora- i tion Buildings, and the Castle, not the jail, may be visited.

Birkenhead (Queen's Hotel; Woodside), an I essentially modern town of about 115,000 in- i habitants, is near the mouth of the Mersey, on i the S. shore facing Liverpool. Constant com- I munication by steam ferries and the new tunnel

44 ENGLAND. Grange. — Fubness Abbey.

under the Mersey. Ship-building is the main industry. The docks cover 500 acres. Here are the docks of the Messrs. Laird, where the Ala- hama was built. The Church, which overlooks the river, is part of the old Priory of Byrkhed, founded in Henry II. 's reign.

The English Lake District.

Those persons who desire to visit the English Lakes and to proceed thence to Scotland, before going up to London, will find Liverpool their best point of departure. From Liverpool to Windermere the distance is 87i M. This route is through Wigan, Preston, and Lancaster to Oxenholme Junction^ where a good view of Kendal, the largest town in Westmoreland, is obtained, and from Oxenholme by branch rail- way to Windermere, whence excursions can be made in all directions. But we think the Amer- ican tourist would find it interesting to enter this beautiful region by another route, as fol- lows : Take ticket from Liverpool to Grange. You pass through Wigan, Preston, and Lan- caster, and a little beyond this last place change at Carnforth Junction. The railway thence to Grange carries you across arms of Morecambe Bay, and beside wild stretches of quicksand, where hundreds of lives have been lost. Grange {Grange Hotel, a charming house on the slope of a wooded hill) is called the "Torquay of the North." Its climate is mild, even in winter ; and it is a favorite fashionable resort. Castle Head, once a Roman station, is near by. From Grange an excursion should be made to Furness Abbey, by the railway passing through Ulverston,

ENGLAND. Fueness Abbey. 45

Lindal, Dalton, and other points in the rich Furness mining district, and terminating at the important town of Barrow. Tourists will be well repaid for visiting the ruin, and the ex- cursion may be made in an afternoon by those who have left Liverpool for Grange in the morn- ing. "The Royal Abbey of St. Mary of Furness" was founded in 1127, in Henry I.'s reign, by Stephen, his successor on the throne of Eng- land. The monks of the Cistercian order grew rapidly rich and powerful. The abbots of Fur- ness were lords in Parliament, and had their little army. The ruin is now the property of the Duke of Devonshire. The roofless church, the lavishly decorated chapter-house, the scrip- torium, and the refectory contain many inter- esting memorials. The E. window is preserved in the sanctuary at Bowness; it is a superb specimen of mediaeval glass-painting. Furness Abbey Hotel is near the ruins. Along the rail- way lie beds of hematite iron ore, from which about 600,000 tons are annually taken. From Ulverston (County; Sun), the capital of Fur- ness, a branch line leads to Lake Side, on Wind- ermere Lake. One can also go directly from Furness Abbey or from Barrow by rail to the head of Coniston Lake. See time-tables of Northwestern and Midland Railways, and local guide-books, for a host of details concerning round trips, circular tickets, etc. HolJcer Hall, a residence of the Duke of Devonshire, may be visited on the way back from Furness Abbey to Grange. Stop at Cm^Jc, and walk to the Hall, 1 M. The Hall and park are on the Leven, flow- ing out of Lake Windermere. Many charming Sands up to and through sweet and romantic

46 ENGLAND. Windermere Lake.

walks in this vicinity, from the weird Leven HolJcer Village, with its cottages nestling among rose-trees and fuchsias, and on to Cartmel and its ancient Priory. Holli;er Hall contains a fine collection of paintings, and the park is well stocked with deer. Levens Hall may be visited from Grange. It is on the E. side of the river Kent. The gardens on the estate were laid out by Beaumont, James II. 's famous gardener. Re- turning to Grange, sleep there, and take the coach or motor-car next morning for Newby Bridge and Lake Side (foot of Lake Winder- mere) at about 10 o'clock. This 8 M. drive is delightful. At Newbj' Bridge the time-honored and picturesque Swan Inn should be noticed. At Lake Side, where the train from Ulverston comes in (Lake Side Hotel), one may take the steam- yacht which plies regularly on the waters of Windermere, stopping at the Ferry (5 M.), Bowness (6 M.), or Waterhead (11 M.). This last is the stat. for Ambleside, f M. from the lake ; and at Ambleside one is in the very heart of the Lake region. A party of four persons would find it worth their while to hire a car- riage or automobile at Grange, and drive first to Newby Bridge; thence to Lake Side; then across from Windermere Lake, past Esthwaitc Water (around which Wordsworth used to walk when he was attending school near by), through the old town of Haukshcad, down to the Waterhead Quay on Coniston Lake; and from that point over the Oxenfell, past Skel- with Bridge and Elter Water and Brathay, into Ambleside. This can be done easily in 5 or 6 hrs., including stops, and in fine weather is a bewitching journey. The descent to Coniston

ENGLAND. Windermere Lake. 47

and the approach to Ambleside afford two of the loveliest views in England. Make special bargain for conveyances ; driver receives fee of 2s. to 3s. 6d. We advise tourists to hasten to Ambleside, and make their excursions from there. The Long Sleddale, Kentmere, Trout- beck, and Rusland Vales may be best visited from Windermere Village or Bowness ; but every- thing else of importance is most accessible from Ambleside.*

Windermere Lake is 10^ M. long and 1 M. broad in its widest part. It is 134 feet above the sea-level, and varies in depth from 90 to 240 feet. Opposite Bowness there is a group of about a dozen small islands. The surround- ing hills rarely rise above 1,000 feet. At a few yards from the head of the lake, the rivers Brathay and Rothay unite their waters. There are no such rich effects of color, no such bold and magnificent mountain masses, as on the shores of the Swiss lakes ; but there is a be- wildering richness of Northern vegetation, and a constant succession of beautiful landscapes such as few other countries can boast. (Boat, to row yourself, Is, an hr. ; with boatman. Is. 6d. per hr. ; for the day, 5s., with boatman, 10s.).

Bowness (Croimi; Royal; Belsfielcl; Stag's Head; Old England) is on a pleasant bay, and commands good views of the upper reaches of the lake. Ancient parish church here. Coaches every morning in summer for Coniston ; and for

• The traveller will find pocket editions of Wordsworth

and Southey excellent companions; also, Prof. Wm. Knight's "The English Lake District, as interpreted in the Poems of Wordsworth," price 5s.

48 ENGLAND. Windermere. — Ambleside.

Patterdale by the Troutbeck. Vale and Kirk- stone Pass.

Windermere (Rigg's Wmdermere Hotel) is li M. from the lake by road, ^ M. by footpath, and 5 M. from Ambleside. Coach each morning in summer to Patterdale. Fine view from Orrest Head, 783 feet high (i hr.'s walk).

Ambleside (Queen's; Salvation; White Lion; Waterhead, at the lake pier) is nearly 1 M. from the head of Windermere Lake, in a lovely situa- tion at the foot of Wansfell Pike. Omnibuses often to Grasmere and to head of lake; and coaches for Keswick, and thrice daily for Wind- ermere. Ambleside is picturesque, although the inhabitants build ugly residences out of the slate which abounds in the neighborhood. The park- like vale of Rothay, with its rich woods and pretty vistas of green fields, seems made for the home of contemplation. The new church of St. Mary designed by Sir Gilbert Scott, is in a charming location. We give a number of short excursions within walking distance, out of which the tourist must choose those which strike his fancy. To the Stock Ghyll Force (water- fall, 70 feet high), within the Salutation Hotel grounds. The distances mentioned below are computed from the "Salutation." To Rydal Mount, church, and Falls, 2 M. ; to Skelgill and Wansfell Pike, 3 M. ; to the top of Kirkstone Pass, 4 M. ; to Grasmere, under Loughrigg Fell, and back by Nab Scar, 9 M. ; to Clappersgate,

1 M. ; Brathay church, 2 M. ; Low Wood Hotel,

2 M. ; Troutbeck church, 4 M. ; Langdale church, 5 M. Tickets for a circular tour by Coniston, Furness Abbey, and Windermere Lake and for

ENGLAND. Coniston Lake. 49

the whole tour, can be obtained at Ambleside or at Bowness. They are available for 7 days. ■

Coniston Lake, 5i M. long, f M. broad, is 164 feet deep in some places Its surroundings are fine, and the view down upon it from some neighboring mountain is charming. A steam yacht plies up and down the lake 3 times daily (round trip Is. 6d.). Excursions up Coniston Old Man (2577 feet), Wetherlam, and Black Combe Mts. are for the leisurely tourist.

The Langdale tour is made daily by coach in 6 hours. The drive is from Ambleside to Rothay Bridge, i M. ; Skelwith Bridge, 3 ; Culwith Force, 4^ ; Smithy Houses, 5^ ; Dungeon Gill, 9^ ; Chapel Stile, 12^; High Close, 14; Grasmere Ch., 15^ ; Ambleside, 19^. Much of the scenery visited on this drive is described in Wordsworth's "Ex- cursion."

Private Carriage Excursions from Amdleside, recommended to tourists who have time at their disposition. — To Patterdale by Kirkstone Pass, Brothers' Water, and back (an exceedingly in- teresting drive, abounding in Tsald and romantic scenery), 24 M. ; or back by Troutbeck, 25 M. To Keswick by Rydal Water, Grasmere. Dun- mail Raise, Thirlmere, Castlerigg, and back, 34 M. ; or back by St. John's Vale, 37 M. To Con- iston by Tarn Hows, back by Hawshead, Blel- ham Tarn, Wray Castle, to Ambleside, 18 M. To Coniston by Tarn Hows, back by Hawks- head, Esthwaite Water, the Ferry, Wray Castle to Ambleside, 23 M. ; or across the Ferry and oack to Ambleside by Bowness, 25 M. Around Wmdermere Lake by Brathay, Wray Castle, the Ferry, Graythwaite, to Newby Bridge, and back 3y the E. side of Windermere, Bowness to Am-

50 ENGLAND. Ullswater Lake.

bleside, 30 M. Around Langdale by Clappers- gate, Brathay, Skelwith, Blea Tarn, Little Lang- dale, Wall End, back by Great Langdale, Red Bank, Grasmere, Rydal, to Ambleside, 21 M. ; or direct by Elterwater, 18 M. By Clappers- gate to Skelwitb, Longbrigg, Tarn, Higb Close, Red Bank, Grasmere, Rydal, to Ambleside, 12 M. To tbe top of Kirkstone, back by vale of Troutbeck and Low Wood, 11 M. ; or back by Cook's House, 15 M. To Bo^Yness, back by Windermere, Cook's House, Vale of Troutbeck, and Low Wood, 17 M. To Hawksbead, back by Wray Castle, Blelham Tarn, 12 M.

From Ambleside to Ullswater Lake.

Ullswater Lake is usually visited either from Ambleside or from Keswick. During tbe tourist season a coach leaves Ambleside for Patterdale at 10 a. m. daily. The route through Amble- side to the Kirkstone Pass passes in front of the Salutation Hotel, and branches to the right, passing the old church. Here and there it is very steep, winding along the side of the Fell. Below, on the right, is the Stock Ghyll, on opposite side of which is Wansfell Ghyl, on the opposite side of which is Wansfell Pike. The inn at the top of tlie Pass, called the Trar- ellers' Rest, is said to be the highest inn in En.: land. It stands 1,475 feet above the sea-level Travellers, independent of the coach, had bett* i drive round by Troutbeck Bridge and up tl] bold hills, commanding a view of the Fall « i Troutbeck, to the top of the Pass. Descendiiii: from the Travellers' Rest, yop pass on the left the Kirk Stone, which looks, perhaps, a triti*

ENGLAND. Ullswatee Lake. 51

like a church from a point half-way down the mountain towards Brothers' Water, a little lake, named from the drowning of two brothers in its depths. While at the top of the Pass, you can see the flames from the blast furnaces in the Barrow district, and catch a glimpse of the Irish Sea. The Dove Crags, beyond the Broth- ers' Water Hotel, are extremely picturesque.

Patterdale (Patterdale Hotel; White Lion) stands in a pretty valley, a few hundred yards from the head of the lake. 1 M. farther on are -the Ullsicater Hotel and the Glenriclding (tem- perance). The scenery all about this point is rich and varied. The view from the windows of the Ullswater Hotel over the lake, with its woody shores and its islands, is very beautiful. (Fares for tour on Ullswater Lake, by steam yacht, 3s. and 2s.) The boats call at How- town, and next land passengers close to Pooley Bridge, whence coaches run to meet the trains I at Penrith. From Penrith, rail to Keswick. I Ullswater Lake is 9 M. long, f M. broad, and ' 210 feet deep. The upper reach of the lake is the most beautiful Many people prefer this to Lake Derwentwater. See Lyulpli's Toicer and i; Ira Force, a waterfall 80 feet high. This cas- I cade is the scene of the incident on which I Wordsworth's poem of the Somnambulist is ii founded. The journey from Ambleside to Ulls- [ water usually takes 2f hours. Wordsworth in- tended to make his home at a cottage under Place Fell, near Patterdale; but the owner asked more than the prudent man thought it

was worth, and he remained at Grasmere. The

places in the Ullswater district associated with the poet are best approached by the road from

52 ENGLAND. Rydal.

Grasinere to Helvellyn, leading past Girdsdale Tarn.

From Ambleside to Keswick via Rydal Mount and Grasmere.

Those persons who have not taken the Lang- dale Drive, or who have not been at Grasmere from Ambleside, may visit the old homes and the grave of Wordsworth on their way to Kes- wick. The coaches stop at the places of interest. The road out of Ambleside leads past the KnoU^ and the ivy-covered residence in which Harriet Martineau lived for a long time. This house is on the left. Thence the route lies up the Rothay valley to Rydal. Note Fox Hoic, Dr. Arnold's old residence to the left, beyond the Rothay. A steep road on the right leads out of Rydal to Rydal Mount, where Wordsworth spent 37 years of his life, and where he died in 1850. As many as possible of the memorials of the ix»et in his home have been preserved unaltered ; but the old picturesque frontage with its 12 windows and the ash-tree, near which hung the "osier cage" of the doves, are gone. The present owner of the house declines to show it. The location is extremely beautiful. Rydal Falls are at the back of Rydal Hall.. Guide at cottage be- low the church. Returning to the main road, the traveller passes through the gorge between Nab Scar on the right and Loughrigg Fell on the left ; see on the right Nal> Cottage, in which Hartley Coleridge lived for a long time, and where he died ; and reaches Rydal Watet% one of the most diminutive of the lakes. From this point it is but a short distance to the delight-

ENGLAND. Grasmere. 53

fully situated Ch'asmere Lake. It is 1 M. long and i M. broad. An island of 4 acres' area lies in its centre. Grasmere (Rothay; Swan; Red Lion; Prince of Wales, on the lake) lies mainly at the N. end of the lake, although many of the newer residences border on the highway. Knight says : "The cottage at the town end of Gras- mere, to which Worda(worth oame with his sister in the last days of the last century, is, even more than Rydal Mount, identified with his poetic prime. It had once been a public house, bearing the sign of the Dove and Olive Bough, from which circumstance it was for a long time, and is still, occasionally named 'Dove Cottage.' It is a small, two-storied house." (See De Quincey's description, in "Recollections of the Lakes," pp. 131, 137.)* Grasmere Church is the one which Wordsworth drew in "The Ex- cursion," and in its cemetery he lies buried. The interior is as the poet described it ; there are the "naked rafters intricately crossed," the

• The localities most deeply identified with Wordsworth

are: Grasmere, where he lived so long, and is buried; Lower Easedale, where he spent so many days with his sister, by the side of the brook, and on the terraces at Lancrigg, where "The Prelude" was written; Rydal Mount, where he lived the latter half of his life, and found one of the most perfect retreats in England; and the old (upper) path between Rydal and Grasmere, under Nab Scar, his favorite walk during his later years, where he composed hundreds of verses. There is scarcely a rock or mountain-summit, a stream or tarn, or even a well, a grove, or a forest-side, in all that neighborhood, which is not imperishably associated with that poet, who at once interpreted them as they had never been inter- preted before, and added

"The gleam, The light that never was on sea or land. The consecration, and the poet's drearn."

54 ENGLAND. Keswick.

oaken benches, the "heraldic shield" in the "altar window," etc. After a visit to the church you can find some very lovely rambles in the vicinity. The road to Keswick climbs Dunmail Raise Pass, with Steel Fell on the left and Seat Sandal on the right, and crosses the boundary between Cumberland and Westmoreland. Descending on the other side, Thirlmere Lake appears, with Mt. Helvellyn on the right and part of Skiddaw in the distance. The coach stops at the inn at Wythburn. The church at Wythburn is one of the smallest in England. From hence the ascent of Mt. Helvellyn is easiest. Height, 3,118 feet ; distance to top from Wythburn, 2^ hours. Thirl- mere Lake, which supplies Manchester with water, is 2\ M. long, and very narrow. From the W. shore many lovely views may be ob- tained. From an elevation in the road just be- yond this point, Blencathara may be seen. The rich Vale of St. .John also opens its charming vistas on the right ; and not far from the King's Head Inn, at Thirlspot, a glimpse of Castle Rock, the fairy castle of Sir Walter Scott's "Bridal of Triermain." is obtained. An uninteresting stretch of country comes next ; after which the traveller is gratified with one of the most ex- quisite panoramas in the Lake Region, the Der- went Valley, with pretty Keswick, and portions of Bassenthwaite and Derwentwater Lakes.

Keswick (Kestcick, at the station; Royal Oak; Queens; George; Lake Skicldaiv, temperance) is surrounded by a noble company of mountains, with Skiddaw, the chief. 3.058 feet, towering above them. It is a handsome little town, and one or two days may be spent in the neighbor- hood. l.M. from Keswick, at the foot of Lake

ENGLAND. Derwentwater Lake. 55

Derwentwater, in Portinscale, is the Derwent- water Hotel.. 3 M. from Keswick is the Lodore Hotel, and behind it the Lodore Fall, which Southey celebrated in verse. The Barrow and Lodore Waterfalls, the Bowder Stone, Corrow- dale Valley, Honister Pass, Buttermere and Crummock Lakes, Scale Force, and the New- lands Valley may be seen on the excursion called the Buttermere Drive. Excursionists are con- veyed in open wagonettes through this pleasant series of sylvan and lake scenery. Borrotcdale is considered one of the finest valleys in Great Britain. The Wastwater Excursion from Kes- wick is interesting, but fatiguing.

Derwentwater Lake lies 238 feet above the sea level ; is 80 feet deep in the centre, 3 M. long and 1^ M. wide. From the Friar's Crag, on this Lake, there is a magnificent outlook. There are several islands, one of which, St. Her- bert, was occupied by a hermit monk in the 7th century. On Rampshohne Island, the Earls of Derwentwater once had a mansion ; and from it Lady Derwentwater escaped, taking with her the family jewels, to procure the release of the Earl, who was imprisoned in the Tower of Lon- don for taking part in the rebellion of 1715. For those pressed for time, a drive round Derwent- water Lake will give a view of the principal points of scenery. BussenthwaUe Lake begins about 3 M. N. of the foot of Derwentwater. It is 4 M. long and about f M. wide. The river Derwent, which carries the waters from the Derwent and Keswick Lakes, enters it at its head, and leaves it at its foot, flowing past Cockermouth and into the sea. Bassenthwaite has three promontories on its E. side, which is

56 ENGLAND. Geeta Hall.

overshadowed by Skiddaw. It is not often vis- ited by tourists, because it lies on the N. out- skirt of the Lake District; but it is well worth seeing.

Greta Hall, where the poet Southey spent the best part of his life, is a short distance from Keswick. Walk down the main street to the bridge crossing the river Greta, whence a good view may be had of the Hall. It stands on the right surrounded by trees. From this point to Crosthwaite Church is a pleasant walk, and in the church yard is Southey's grave. The edifice contains a monument to the lau- reate, consisting of a full-length figure. The poetical inscription was written by Words- worth. In the chancel is a monument to Sir John Radcliffe, Knight, an ancestor of the Earls of Derwentwater. From the tower, good view. A footpath through the meadow called Houray was one of Southey's favorite walks. From this point fine view of the magnificent group of mountains on the N., the huge mass of Skid- daw ; on the E., Wallow Crag ; and to the S., the Borrowdale mountains. The lead-pencil manufactories near Keswick merit a visit ; so does an ingenious model of the Lake District in a museum in the town. From Castle Head, ^ M. outside Keswack, most of Bassenthwaite Lake, a portion of Derwentwater, the whole of the intervening valle3% and Mt. Skiddaw may be seen. St. John and Crosthwaite Chs. may also be seen from this point. Unless the weather is fine, it is useless to hope for any satisfactory view of the mountains. Even in midsummer the front of Skiddaw is overhung with mists for a large part of the time. About li M. from

ENGLAND. Carlisle. 57

Keswick, in a field adjoining the old Penrith road, are the Druids' Stones, formed of 38 stones, the largest of which is upwards of 7 feet high. Near by are the towering heights of Helvellyn, Blencathara, and Skiddaw, and, in the distance to the W., an impressive range.

Ascent of Skiddaw from Kesivick. — The dis- tance to the top is about 5| M. ; time, there and back, 4-6 hrs. ; charge for pony, 6s. ; guide, 6s. A guide is usually necessary from Skiddaw to the summit of Blencathara ; distance, about 6 M. ; ground in places very wet.

The tourist can now go on to Scotland (which course we recommend) , via Penrith and Carlisle ; or can return to Liverpool (fares from Kes- wick, 39s. 2d., 27s. 2d., 18s.), and thence go to London by the North Western Railway, arriv- ing at Euston station ; the Midland, arriving at St. Pancras ; the Great Northern, arriving at King's Cross ; or the Great Western, arriving at Paddington station. (Fares, by all the lines 29s., 21s. 9d., 16s. 9d. ; distance, 201f M.)

From Keswick to Carlisle and Scotland.

From Keswick to Penrith, 18 M. Penrith {George; Croicn) is charmingly situated. Ex- cursions may be made to Brougham Castle and Hall. Arthur's Round Ta'ble. Loicther Castle, and the famous Eden Hall, which contains the curi- ous old drinking-glass called the "Luck of Eden Hall." See ruins of Penrith Castle, a favorite residence of Richard III. In the cemetery of the parish church is the Gianfs Grave, an an- cient mysterious mound.

Carlisle (County and Station Hotel; Crown

58 ENGLAND. Carlisle.

cmd Mitre; G-rahwm's, temperance), 18 M. from Penrith and 8 M. from the Scottish border, is the capital of Cumberland. It dates back to the Roman days, and was close to Hadrian's wall. In the early wars between England and Scotland it was of great importance. The Castle was built by William Rufus, Within it Mary Queen of Scots was imprisoned in 1568. The Cathedral does not stand in the front rank; but its E. window is commonly said to be the largest and finest in the Kingdom. The church was originally part of a Norman priory, built of red freestone. It contains a monument to Dr. Paley, Archdeacon of Carlisle. Note the old glass of the time of Richard II., in the E. win- dow, and the exquisite details of the flamboy- ant Gothic work. The walls and windows of the choir are Norman ; the upper part of the choir, with the E. end and the roof, Late Deco- rated. See the old abbey gate-house ; the refec- tory, now used as the chapter-house ; quaint houses in the market-place ; and the Mo(jt Hall.

Beyond Carlisle the railway enters the De- batable Qround, where for centuries the border- ers waged war on each other. A little farther on is Ecclefecham (Scotland), where Thomas Carlyle was born and is buried. The railway crosses the Esk, descending from Liddesdale :

"March, march, Eskdale and Liddesdale, All the blue bonnets are over the border."

SCOTLAND. The Land of Burns. 59

SCOTLAND.

SHORTLY after crossing the Sark River, which is the boundary between England and Scotland, the route passes Gretna Junction^ near which is Gretna Green, formerly the resort of runaway couples anxious to be married. These marriages, rendered possible by the dif- ference between the English and Scotch law, were first celebrated, in 1760, by a tobacconist named Paisley. In 1856 they were suppressed by act of Parliament. Annan Junction was the scene of the spirited escape of King Edward Balliol, in 1332, from the cavalry of Archibald Douglas. It was the birthplace of Edward Irving, in 1792.

The Land of Burns

can be visited from Glasgow; but it will be more satisfactory to go from Carlisle to Dum- fries, pass the night, and then proceed to Ayr. The excursion may be made in a day.

Dumfries (Station; Woodhaiik Mansion; Com- mercial; King's Arms) is 32| M. from Carlisle. Here Burns lived for several years, and here he died, at the house now known as Burns's. He also lived for 18 months after he became an exciseman, at the foot of Bank-St. His Mauso- leum is in St. Michael's Church-yard ; in the vault beneath, lie Burns and his wife and son. The Greyfriars Church deserves a visit. Most

60 SCOTLAND. Dumfries.

readers of Scott will remember the story of Greyfriars Monastery and of "Kirkpatrick's bloody work." Dumfries is the capital of Niths- dale, and its people call it "The Queen of the South." From a border hamlet of the 8th cen- tury, with a Franciscan convent and a castle, it has grown into a prosperous port and factory town. Excursion from Dumfries : — To Linclu- den Abbey, ipi-, beautiful ruins of a 12th-cen- turj' Benedictine nunnery, and a favorite resort of Burns. Amid this sylvan beauty he com- posed his "Vision of Libertie." — To New or Sweetheart Abbey, a lovely Gothic ruin, 7 M. S. The Lady Devorgilla, who built the abbey (for Cistercians), in 1284, embalmed the heart (whence the name) of her husband, John Bal- liol, and had it built in over the high altar. Devorgilla also erected in Dumfries the mon- asterj" for Franciscan friars, before whose altar Robert the Bruce slew the Red Comyn ; and the old bridge across the Nith. — To Ten-cgles (3 M.) and Irongray (5 M.), in whose ch.-yard is a handsome monument erected by Scott to the memory of Helen Walker (Jeannie Deans). Irongray is the scene of "The Recreations of a Country Parson." — To EUisland farm, where Burns wrote "Tarn O'Shanter" and the beautiful ode "To Mary in Heaven." 13 M. from Dum- fries is the extraordinary architectural pile of Drumlanrig Castle, built by William, first Duke of Queensberrj', who wasted princely sums on it. TortJioricall Castle is a massive ruin, 4 M. from Dundee. Caerlaverock Castle, (9 M.) is a grand old fortress on the Solway Firth, described in "Guy Mannering." Lochmahcn, RuthicclU and venerable Kirkcudbright (near Dundrennau Ab-

SCOTLAND. Mauchline.— Ayr. 61

bey and St. Mary's Isle) may also be visited. Tourists who wish to view the extreme S. coast of Scotland should go to Stranraer from Dum- fries (69 M.) ; and from Stanraer by rail to Ayr and Glasgow. Those who would make only a short stop at Dumfries should buy a ticket from Carlisle to Mauchline (8| M., fares, 13s. 8d., 10s. 3d., 6s. 9^.). At Mauchline (Loudoun Arms Hotel) everything speaks of Burns ; his faian of Mossgiel is 1^ M. N. ; there he was mar- ried to Jean Armour ; there his plough turned up the mouse's nest. In Mauchline is "Poosie Nansie's" cottage, celebrated for the meeting of the "Jolly Beggars." If you have time, walk through woods and fields from Mauchline to Montgomerie, There stands the pretty mansion where once "Highland Mary" lived as an hum- ble dairymaid. From Mauchline a branch line, 11 M. long, leads to Ayr {Station; King's Arms; DalNair), to which many pilgrims go to pay homage to Burns. It is on the sea-coast, at the mouth of the river Ayr. See the "Twa Brigs" of Burns's poem. The Auld Brig (now only a footpath) dates from the reign of Alexander III., in the 13th century ; the new bridge, from 1877. A Gothic tower, 133 ft. high, containing a statue of Wallace, stands on the site of a tower in which the hero is said to have been confined. Cromwell built the fort of Ayr in 1652. But a few fragments remain. Take a carriage or the train to Burns's Cottage,the Monument, and Allo- way Kirk Walk down through the long and exquisitely shaded avenue to the cottage. In this rude home the poet was born, Jan. 25, 1759. One room has been transformed into a kind of museum, and there some of the poet's

62 SCOTLAND. Alloway.— Maybole.

original MSS. and other memorials may be seen. Not far beyond is Alloway Kirk, roofless and desolate. The walls are in a fair state of preser- vation, and the bell remains ; but the woodwork has been all used up for memorials. New Allo- way Ch. is on the other side of the road. Thero is little to see in the "auld haunted kirk," so gu on to the bridge over the "Bonny Doon," built since Burns's time ; up stream you will see the "Auld Brig" immortalized in "Tam o' Shan- ter." An excursion along the Beautiful Doon in the summer-time is most delightful. The Burns Monument stands near the new bridge. ' See. on the ground-floor, memorials of the poet, and the Bible which he gave to "Highland Mary." Good view from upper part of monument. Note the statues of Tam O'Shanter and Souter John- nie, in a grotto on S. N. E. of Ayr lies a country in which Burns laid the scene of many poems. It is accessible only by rural teams or on foot. Mt Oliphant, where Burns lived when a child, and Tarbolton, where he passed his early man- hood, and where he wrote "John Barleycorn," "Now, whistling winds," etc., are but a few miles from Alloway.

A rly. runs S. 9 miles from Ayr to Maybole {King's Arms, Commercial), the old capital of Carrick, and the scene of Scott's "Ayrshire Tragedy," near which are the rich ruins of Crossraguel Abbey (founded about 1240) and Dunure Castle; also the splendid Culzean Castle, where the Earls of Cassilis have held court for centuries, on cliffs over the sea. 7 M. S. of Maybole are the ruins of Tjirnherry Castle, made famous by Robert Bruce and Walter Scott. 22 M. by rail from Ayr is Girvan {King's Arms), 10

SCOTLAND. Troon.— Paisley. 63

miles off shore from which Ailsa Craig rises from the sea, 1,100 ft. high, and 2 M. around. The rly. runs farther S. to Portpatrick ; Stran- raer ; Glenluce, near the ruins of Luce Abbey founded 1190) and Soulseat Abbey ; picturesque little Wigtown, near Baldoon Castle, the scene of Scott's "Bride of Lammermoor ;" and other localities famous in the chronicles of the bor- ders and the sea — the Bruce, the Wallace, and the Covenanters.

Ayr can be visited from Glasgow (40 M.) in an afternoon. Leaving Ayr for Glasgow, in 6^ M. the train reaches Troon, the chief seaport and summer-resort of Ayrshire, 3 M. from the great ruins of Dundonald Castle, the home of the founder of the Stuart dynasty ; a branch line runs (9 M.) to Kilmarnock, where Burns's poems were first published. Beyond Troon, the Glasgow train passes Irvive, where the poet Montgomery was born, where Burns lived for a time, and where Robert Bruce surrendered to the English army under Percy. 3^ M. farther on is Kiln-fnnmg, with the ruins of an ancient priory, famous in Masonic annals ; and also the imposing Eglinton Castle, the seat of the Mont- gomeries.

Paisley (yew Globe; Country), contains a magnificent Town Hall ; a jail, which looks like a palace ; a museum of local antiquities and relics : and the Adhey Church, founded in 1169. In the Reformation, Paisley was noted for its intense devotion to the Catholic religion. The chapel of the abbey contains a "sounding aisle." so-called from its remarkable echo. The nave, which re- mains entire, is used as a parish ch. Paisley (once a Roman fortress) was of no importance

64 SCOTLAND. Glasgow.

until the last century ; but now its trade includes weaving, shawls, and thread-making (the estab- lishments of Coats, and Clark & Co. are the largest of their kind in the world). "Christo- pher North" was born here. Not far from Pais- ley is the farm of Moorhouse, where Robert Pol- lok. author of "The Course of Time," was born, in 1798. See Crookston Castle, where Queen Mary was betrothed to Darnley, half-way be- tween Paisley and

Glasgow.

(Hotels: St. Enoch's, l^orth British, Central; station hotels : Windsor; Gockhurn, Osborne, temperance). The American tourist will find a vast deal to occupy his attention in this, the second city in population (8G0.0OO) and commer- cial importance in Great Britain. A small Ro- man colony once occuped this site. About the year 560 St. Mungo founded a religious house here, and the village was nurtured by the Church for a thousand years. At the Reformation Glas- gow had but 4,000 inhabitants, and in 1708 it had 12,776. But towards the end of the 18th century it began to increase enormously, and in 1901 the population was 760,000. The imix>rtation of to- bacco from Virginia and Maryland was long one of the chief branches of industry. To-day, this town, 60 M. from the sea, rivals Liverpool in shipping, Manchester in cotton-spinning, New- castle in coal, the Thames and the Tyne in iron ship-building, and Wolverhampton in iron fur- naces. The perseverance of the Scotch in con- verting the Clyde into a vast harbor, cannot be too much admired. Glasgow was the first city

SCOTLAND. Glasgow. 65

in Europe to possess a regular line of steam- boats. In 1812-18 steam-packets crossed the Irish Straits between Greenock and Belfast. It was in Glasgow that James Watt perfected his famous invention. In 1718 the first ship, a little craft of 60 tons, left Glasgow for the New World. Glasgow has made extensive and suc- cessful experiments in municipal ownership, hav- ing under its own management the tramway lines and the. gas works as well as the water works.

Walk down to the splendid Glasgow Bridge, from which there is a fine view of the Broomie- law Harbor. It is 400 ft. wide, and extends down the stream for 1^ M., walled on either side by superb ranges of docks, along which ships are laid three or four deep. From the Bridge up- stream a good view of the Custom House on the N. bank is commanded. Most of the excursion steamers start from the Broomielaw quay on the N. bank of the Clyde. The works on the Clyde have cost £8,500.000, or $42,500,000. In 1760 James Watt reported a maximum depth of water at the Broomielaw of 3 ft. 3 in. Now. as the result of the constant dredging, vessels drawing 23 ft. of water enter freely. Glasgow is in the famous Lanarkshire black district, which has a great coal-field, rich also in seams of ironstone. There are so many blast furnaces here that the sky to the S. and S. E. is lighted I up nightly with their glow as if by a great con- f. flagration.

The E. section of the city includes the main business part, and the objects of antiquities in- terest. The W. is the section for residences of I fashionable i^eople ; and on the S. are the great

66 SCOTLAND. Glasgow.

public works. Buchanan St. is handsomely built and contains the finest shops and offices. Argyle St., 3 M. long (including Trongate and Gallow- gate), is the main thoroughfare. George-St. is an avenue extending the whole length of the city and passing through George Square. This is a central point, and lies close to the two principal rly, stats. In the centre stands the Scott Monu- ment, a fluted column surmounted by a gigantic statue. On the E. and W. are equestrian bronze statues of Queen Victoria and the Prince Con- sort. There are also figures of James Watt, by Chantrey; the exquisite statue of Sir John Moore (a native of Glasgow), by Flaxman ; one of Dr. Livingstone, the traveller ; and others to Campbell the poet, Sir Robert Peel, Robert Burns, Lord Clyde, and Dr. Graham. On the S. is the General Post-Office, plain but spacioug; and on the E. are the municipal buildings. The Bank of Scotland and the Merchants' House occupy the W. side. The Royal Exchange is in the Corinthian style, with rich colonades.- Strangers are admittel to the news-room, 130 ft. long by 60 ft. broad, with a noble arched roof. See Hutcheson's Hospital. Corinthian buildings with a high tower, founded in 1641 by two broth- ers; and also in Ingram Street the old Glasgow AssemMy Rooms; also David's Ch. and the Mitchell Library. In Argyle-St., at the so-called Cross of Glasgow, whence High-St., Gallwcgate, London-St., and Saltmarket diverge, stands an equestrian statue of William III. At the corner of the High-St. and Trongate formerly stood the old Court House, in front of which criminals were executed, and the ancient jail, of which Walter Scott speaks. See the Cross Steeple, a

SCOTLAND. Glasgow. 67

relic of the old municipal splendor. Walk up High-St. on the E, side from the Trongate to the Cathedral. See old Glasgow vollege (built 1632-52, in quaint and gloomy monastic forms), now a railway station. Opposite, at the corner of High and College Sts., is the house in which Thomas Campbell lived as a student. Farther on is the place called the Bell of the Brae, where in 1300, Wallace and his Scots defeated thrice their number of Englishmen, and Wallace clove Lord Percy's head in twain ; and a little beyond this is the homely Barony Gh., once in charge of Dr. Norman MacLeod.

The Cathedral is famous as one of the two Catholic chs. spared in Scotland by the fury of the Reformation. The Presbyterian ministers prevailed on the magistrates in 1579 to have it torn down ; but the corporations of the city rose in arms, and prevented it. Two stone "idols" were taken out of their nooks and broken to pieces, as Scott has told us, "and the auld Kirk stood as crouse as a cat when the flaes are kaimed ofiC her, and a'body was alike pleased." Open daily, except Sun., 10-6. This noble struc- ture is dedicated to St. Kentigern, or St. Mungo, the founder of the see of Glasgow, who was buried on the E. end of the cathedral-site. The edifice is picturesquely located; and above it, on terraces almost oriental in their construction, arises the Necropolis, the finest cemetery in the city, with rich shrubberies and crowds of monu- ments; approached from the cathedral by the Bridge of Sighs. The arrangement of the monu- ments is very remarkable, and forms a noble background to the ancient cathedral. The most noted monuments are those of John Knox the

68 SCOTLAND. Glasgow.

Reformer. Dr. William Black, Rev. Dr. Dick, and Major Monteith. Climbing to the summit one overlooks the vast city, with its enormous ranges of buildings, and its forests of chimneys, and of masts along the Clyde, and the blue hills of Lanark, Renfrew, and Argyll. The original cathe- dral was founded in the reign of David I., in 1136. Murdo, the famous architect, built it ; and the inscription on his tomb alludes with pride to the fact. The cathedral is 319 ft. long and 63 ft. wide. The W. door is rich and beau- tiful. Its general design is French, but the mouldings and details are English. The interior contains 147 pillars, and many of the 159 win- dows are of very beautiful workmanship. The entrance is by a door in the S. aisle. Before the Reformation, the ch. was divided into two parts, and service was held in each. For in- teresting details, see Ferguson's Architecture. The Crypt is unique in beauty, and is certainly one of the most perfect pieces of architecture in Britain. It is supported by 66 pillars (18 ft. high), some of which are 18 ft. in circumference; and illuminated from 41 windows. The piers and groinings are of exquisitely beautiful and varied designs. In the centre stands the shrine of St. Mungo. At the S. E. corner is St. Mungo's Well. See also the tomb of Edward Irving, who died at Glasgow in 1834. In "Rob Roy" there is an interesting description of this crypt. Other things to note are the stained glass windows, executed in Munich, for £100,000 (explanations of the windows, 2d.) ; the Dripping Aisle, so- called from the perpetual dripping of water from the roof; the Choir, locally known as the High Ch., now used as one of the city chs. ; magnifi-

SCOTLAND. Glasgow. 69

cent organ here; behind it, the chapel and the chapter-house. The curious old ch.-yard is lit- erally paved with stone slabs, with inscriptions to the memory of local notables.

The new University, the most imposing mod- ern edifice in Scotland, is approached through West End Park: take the footpath from the bridge over the Kelvin. From the platform, good view. The University has a frontage of 600 ft, with fine central tower, 310 ft. high. The archi- tect w^as the late Sir G. Gilbert Scott. In gen- eral style the buildings are Early English. The buildings will have cost £500,000. The Hunterian Museum, rich in mineralogy, geology, natural history, and anatomy, is open daily, 10-6 (ad- mission, 6d.). In the Library, valuable series of early printed books. The University was founded about 1450 by Bishop Turnbull. In 1560 Queen Mary endowed it with a moiety of the confiscated Church property in the city. Its renown as a seat of learning culminated in the last century. Cullen and Black, Hunter and Reid, Adam Smith and Watt, are among the great names associated with it. Near by is the Botamcal Garden. The Art Galleries in Kelvin Grove have valuable collections of paintings (by Claude, Cuyp, Teniers, Murillo, Whistler's por- trait of Carlisle, etc.) ; also a marble statue of Pitt, by Flaxman, and portraits of the English kings. Galleries open daily, 10 to sunset, Sun- days, 2 to 6. See St. Anclreiv's Palace and the Kelvin Grove Park. The park contains a foun- tain commemorating the introduction of water from Loch Katrine. In Kelvin Grove is the Industrial Museum. Near the University is the 'New Western Infirmary. The beautiful squares

70 SCOTLAND. Dumbarton Castle.

and terraces in the W. contain the homes of the rich merchants, the "tobacco lords," and the great ship-builders.

Glasgow Green is a park extending 1 M. along the Clyle, adorned with an obelisk to Lord Nel- son, and the scene of very remarkable open-air preaching on summer Sunday evenings. In this park Prince Charles Edward reviewed his army in 1745 ; and here, also, Watt was strolling when the central idea of the steam-engine occurred to him. To the S. of Queen's Park is the village of Langside, where Queen Mary met with her final defeat, in 1568. A memorial stone marks the spot whence Mary witnessed the battle.

Excursions Around Glasgow. — To Greenock, by the river; past the suburb of Govan and the ship-yards of Messrs. Napier, etc. ; the old royal burgh of Renfrew, near which Somerled, Thane of Argyll, was defeated and slain in 11(>4 ; Erskine Ferry, where the Earl of Argyll was cap- tured, in 1685, in the disguise of a peasant ; Dal- nottar and the craggy Kilpatrick Hills ; Bowling, near the high ruins of Dunglas Castle and the end of Antoninus's wall ; and Dunglaspoint, with its monument to Henry Bell, who first introduced steam navigation on the Clyde. Dumbarton Castle, at the junction of the Leven (Loch Lo- mond's outlet) and Clyde, is on a rock measuring 1 M. around and 560 ft. high. Part of it bears the name of Wallace's Totcer. The Scottish hero was imprisoned there; and his huge two-handed sword is still shown. There is a tradition that Satan threw Dumbarton Rock at St. Patrick. The castle is one of four garrisoned in Scotland by the British army, and commands the Clyde with batteries. It was the capital uf a Roman

SCOTLAND. Greenock. — Helensburgh 71

province, and afterwards repelled the Norwe- gian Vikings. It was held by Robert Bruce in 1309 ; and in 1571 Capt. Cawford carried it by es- calade, at night. In 1652 it was taken by Crom- well's troops. At the portculis may be seen carven heads of Wallace and of Menteith, his be- trayer. At the summit the remains of a Roman fort are shown. Queen Mary spent some time here. 2 M. from Dumbarton is the village of Cardross, where stood the old castle in which King Robert Bruce died, in 1329. Greenock (Tontine; White Hart; Royal) 22 M. from Glas- gow ; population, 80,000, is one of the chief sea- ports of Great Britain, and very picturesquely situated. Vast new docks are being built. The ship yards are among the largest on the Clyde. The ocean steamers for New York take their passengers and mails at the Tail of the Bank. Fine view, from the shore, of the mts. of Argyll- shire and Dumbartonshire. Burns' "Highland Mary" is buried in the old kirkyard. There is a beautiful statue of James Watt, by Chantrey, in a memorial building in Union-St. Travellers going to Oban and Inverary should take steamer at Greenock. Nearly opposite is Helensburgh {Queen's Hotel; Imperial), a pretty town, much frequented in summer by pleasure-seekers. The Gareloch is the name of a fine sea basin (steam- ers ply on it), which stretches N. from Helens- burgh for about 7^ M. Its shores are covered with beautiful villas, Roseneath, Ardincaple Castle, etc. The famous Olen Fruin lies on the E.

Another good excursion can be made in one day by Caledonian Rly. to Hamilton, passing through Rutherglen, a royal burgh as early as

72 SCOTLAND. Hamilton.— Lanark.

1126. Hamilton (County, Clydesdale) contains many interesting historical places. See site of King's Head, \Yhere Cromwell lodged during his foray into Scotland ; and the old Steeple and Pillory, built in the reign of Charles I. Hamil- ton Palace, seat of the Duke of Hamilton and Brandon, stands in a beautiful park ; 2 M. S. E. are the ruins of Cadzo^o Castle. On Bothwell Bridge, 2 M. N. of Hamilton, a famous encounter between the Covenanters and the Royal forces took place in 1679. A little beyond is Bothwell, noted for its old ch., where Robert, Duke of Rothsay, was married. Bothwell Castle (ad- mission, Tues. 9-5) is on the r. bank of the Clyde, 1 M. from the village. The ruins afford an almost perfect example of Norman architecture. See the circular towers ; remains of the chapel, with shafted windows ; and a circular dungeon called Wallace's Beef-harrel. The walls are covered with ivy and wild roses. The walk between Hamilton and Bothwell is extremely interest- ing.

Lanark (Clydesdale Hotel) was the scene of many of Wallace's exploits. There is a statue of him at the parish ch. Corra Linn is 1^ M. S., a beautiful fall of 85 ft; and the pretty Bonnington Linn, is ^ M. beyond. Stonehyres Linn is 2^ M. N. of Lanark, near the Cartland Crags. Tickets must be obtained.

SCOTLAND. Loch Lomond.

The Scottish Highlands.

A Round Trip from Glasgow to Glasgow Ity ivay of Loch Lomond, Loch Katrine, the Trossachs, and Callander; from Callander to Oban; with Excursions frmn Oban to Staffa, lona, and In- verness; and frojn Oban to Glasgow, J)y the Crinan Canal and Rothesay.

We recommend this route as giving a wide survey of typical Scotch mountain, lake, and coast scenery, within a brief period and at small cost. The trip through the lochs and the Tros- sachs to Callander begins at the Queen-St. stat. in Glasgow. Buy a ticket for Inversnaid, the point at which Loch Lomond is left, and pro- ceed by train to Balloch (20 M.). The route passes Dumbarton, and gives a good view of Wallace's Seat ; through the valley where, in the parish of Cardross, Smollett, the historian nnd novelist, was born; and up the glen of the Leven's transparent water. At Balloch the train stops close to the steamer.

Loch Lomond is certainly very beautiful when the sunlight plays upon the water and on the guardian mts. It is about 23 M. long, and, at its S. end, 5 M. broad. Under the base of Ben Lomond it is 120 fathoms deep. The area cov- ered by water is 20,000 acres ; 32 islands are scattered over the lake, bearing ruins of an- cient monasteries and castles. Most of these belong to the Duke of Montrose, who uses Inch- murrin, the largest, as a deer-park. "Loch Lo- mond, says Baddeley, "has neither the match- less depth and delicacy of coloring which char-

74 SCOTLAND. Tarbet.

acterizes the foot of Loch Katrine, nor the wild grandeur of Loch Coruisk, nor, in fairness let us add, the dignity of Loch Maree ; but it blends together in one scene a greater variety of the ele- ments which we admire in lake scenery than any other Scottish loch." The steamer leaves Balloch Castle on the r. ; passes to the r. of Inchmurrin, with its ruined Castle, and calls first at Balmaha. Near by is Inclicailloch, the "Island of Women" (so called because a nunnery once existed there). It is the burying-place of the Macgregors. The next landing-place is Luss. on the 1. ; a picturesque little village, with a good hotel. Fine view of the lake from Stone Brae hill. As boat moves N., the great mass of Ben Lomond comes fully into view. Roicardennan, on r., has a hotel. Here is best starting-point for the ascent of Ben Lomond, 3,192 ft. high, and the favorite climb in Scotland. The rough pony-track begins opposite the hotel, and climbs over the ridge between Loch Lomond and Loch Ard valley. Ascents also are made from Inver- snaid and Aberfoil. In clear weather the castles of Stirling and Edinburgh, and the Firth of Forth, can be seen. Time from Rowardennan, 23 hrs. ; distance, 6 M. ; pony and guide, 8s. to 10s. Opposite Rowardennan is Glen Douglas {Inveruglas Hotel), from which point a pretty road leads to Loch Long. Glen Douglas can be reached by ferry across the lake. The boat moves on under the shadow of Ben Lomond, and crosses to the 1. bank, to

Tarbet affords a good view of Ben Lomond ; it is charmingly situated, 8 M. from head of loch. From thence coach may be taken to Loch Long, or to Inverary by Glencroe (24 M., fare,

SCOTLAND. Inverary. — Inversnaid. 75

8s.). Loch Long (salt water) is separated from Loch Lomond by a well-wooded Isthmus. Glen- CToe is a wild mt. pass, 860 ft. high. From here the road to Inverary turns N. and skirts the upper edge of LocJi Fyne. Inverary (Argyll Arms; George) is a small town celebrated as the Highland headquarters of the Duke of Argyll (the MacCallum Mor). Inverary Castle, the ducal residence, is in an ugly building in the midst of beautiful grounds. This point may be reached by other routes from Glasgow, especially by the steamer Lord of the Isles.

From Tarbet cross Loch Lomond to Inversnaid, where coaches are taken for Loch Katrine. The head of Loch Lomond is 3 M. above. 1 M. above is Rob Roy's Cave, a narrow opening in the bank near the water's edge, where it is said that Rob Roy kept his prisoners. Ardlui is the last town on the lake; coaches to Crianlarich (9 M.), whence rly. to Oban.

Inversnaid has a comfortable hotel. There is a scramble for places on the coaches for Loch Katrine. The Iversnaid Waterfall is where Wordsworth met the "Highland Girl," of whom he sang so sweetly. Opposite Inversnaid is In- veruglas Isle, on which are the ruins of an an- cient castle of the Macfarlanes. The road to Loch Katrine (5 M.) lies over a very steep hill, by the hovels pointed out as the former homes of Rob Roy and Helen Macgregor; the Fort of hiversnaid, erected to check the depredations of Rob Roy's band, — Gen. Wolfe was once quar- tered there; and Loch ArJclet, half-way to Stronachlachar Pier, on a bay near the W. end of Loch Katrine. At the hotel here a good lunch can be obtained.

76 SCOTLAND. Loch Katrine. — Trossachs.

Loch Katrine (or Cater an, *'RobJ)ers' Lake") is Glasgow's reservoir. The water drunk by the 750,000 people gathered on the banks of the Clyde is conveyed from this lovely basin for 34 M. The aqueduct required the building of 70 tunnels, and cost ;£1.500,000.

A Lilliputian steamer carries you past Ellen's Isle (see "The Lady of the Lake"), the Silver Strand, and the Goblin's Cave; and affords glimpses of "huge Ben Venue." The loch is 8 M. long, and averages f M. wide. To be seen to advantage, it must have plenty of sunshine, and then it seems "one burnished sheet of living gold."

You land where all the beauties of the lake are concentrated. If you can, by all means walk up through the gorge to the Trossachs Hotel ( 1 M. ) , The Trossachs, the "bristling country," gains in loveliness in a rainy day. There is something weird in a ride through this leafy glen, with the rain rustling in the trees. The gorge extends from Loch Katrine to Loch Achray, between the range of Ben A'an. on the r. (1.500 ft.), and Ben Venue (2,393 ft.) on the 1. In this labyrinth of rocks and mounds, of oak and rowan and birch, of crag and grove and tarn, the most prosaic traveller may well become en- thusiastic. Walter Scott's poems are good com- panions here. In Scott's early days there was no road through this pass. Tne Trossachs Hotel is a pretty house. Excursions thence to Ben Venue and Ben A'an and the Pass of Beal-nam- bo. By the Aberfoyle coach from the Trossachs you have finer view but you miss the Brig o' Turk and much else of great interest.

Distances by Road. — ^Loch Katrine to Tros-

SCOTLAND. Loch Achray. — Callandek. 77

sachs Hotel, 1 M. ; Loch Achray, 2^ ; Brig o' Turk, Si ; Loch Vennachar, 4| ; Coilantogle Ford, 7; Callander, 9|. Loch Achray is noticeable for its tranquil beauty. It is 3 M. long, and the shores are clad with copse to the very water's edge. "The Lady of the Lake" will be found the best guide here. You next reach the Brig o' Turk, where, in the famous chase, as Sir Walter informs us, "the headmost horseman rode alone," Fine view of Ben Venue from here. Next comes the Duncraggan Huts; and then Loch Vennachar (4 M. long), the "Lake of the Fair Valley." On the N. shore is Ben Ledi, the "Hill of God" (2,- 875 ft.). To climb Ben Ledi by the Pass of Leny is an admirable excursion. Here you are in the real Highland country. The hills are aglow with purple colors ; the black-faced cattle with widely projecting horns look down defiantly at you from the steep pasturages; a countryman in kilt trudges by. The coaches rattle past Coilantogle Ford. "Clan-Alpine's outmost guard," where Roderick Dhu challenged Fitz James, and bring up in Callander. Here you may take train to Stirling and Edinburgh; but if you desire to see the real Highlands, continue on our route.

Callander {Dreaclnauglit ; Hydropathic; Aur caster Arms) is in the centre of a delicious coun- try, 1^ M. from the town are the BracJclifnn Falls. A pleasant excursion may be made through the Pass of Leny to Strathyre, return- ing by train (8* M. to walk). It is easy to climb Ben Ledi thence (3 hrs.) and stand on the smooth green summit where the ancient Druid fires were kept.

From Callander to Oban.— This line is one

78 SCOTLAND. Locii Lubnaig. — Loch Awe,

of the most beautiful in Scotland, and was ono of the most expensive. Including the harbor- works at Oban, it cost £645,000. The line crosses the Teith ; sliirts the base of Ben Ledi ; and traverses the Pass of Lemj, which extends between Callander and Loch Lubnaig. This loch is 5 M. long and 1 M. broad, and surrounded by high mts. Near the Falls of Lcny is the church- yard of the Chapel of St. Bride, noticed in the "Lady of the Lake." Just beyond Loch Lubnaig the rly. crosses the River Balvag, and passes Strathyre and King's-House stat., whence Bal- quhidder and Loch Voil can be visited (2 M.). In the graveyard of the old ivy-covered chapel of Balquhidder is the stone said to cover the grave of Rob Roy. The hamlet is intimately connected with the history of the Macgregors. The road now rises, and gives a good view of Loch Earn and Ben Vorlich, on the E, It next traverses Glen Ogle. The rly. is constructed on the side, 300-400 ft. above the lowest level. The margin of Loch Dochart, above w^hich rises Ben More, is next passed ; after which Crianlarich Stat, (coaches to Loch Lomond) is reached. A fine stretch of Highland landscap is seen shortly before arriving at Dahnally. Just beyond Dal- mally, Loch Awe, one of the most picturesque of the Highland lakes, 22 M. in length, is reached. Near it is Ben Cruachan (3,611 ft.) ; and in the lake are many islands, the largest being the Island of the Druids. At the N. end stand the ruins of Kilchurn Castle; and in the centre of the lake, on an islet, are the ruins of the ancient castle of Ardconnel, a former seat of the Campbells. The rly. descends towards the head of Loch Awe, and crosses the Orchy on

SCOTLAND. Oban. — Dunstaffnage Castle. 79

a viaduct. From TaynuUt, on Loch Etive, a steamer may be taken, and a circular trip to Glencoe (34 M.) and BalachuUsh (41 M.) begun. Beyond is Council Ferry, near the Falls of Con- nell. To the r. stands the ivy-mantled Ardchat- tan Priory, built in 1231 by the Lord of Lome, and burned during the wars of Montrose,

Oban (Gt. Western; Alexandra; Station; Royal; Coluniba; Argyll; Marine, temperance ; Craig Ard, on the hill) is the most central point for excursions through this werd northern land of lochs and islands, which has always had a strange glamour of romance about it. It is also the meeting-place of southern fashionables and members of the English nobility and the re- public of letters. Oban extends along and above a pretty, bay, and is the most accessible place N. of Glasgow. Vessels can anchor safely within a few yards of the shore. Dunollie Castle, 1 M. distant, nobly placed on a pedestal of rock at the N. end of the bay, and covered with ivy, was built by the Lords of Lome, and is now owned by their descendants, the M'Dougalls. The rocky island of Kerrera, 4 M. long, serves as a break- water to the bay. It was here (in 1263) that Haco, King of Norway, met the Highland chiefs who aided him in his disastrous raid on the coast of Scotland. Here, also, Alexander II. died, in 1249. The seaward view from the heights, reached by Craigard road, is very fine. Scott made the popularity of Oban by his poem, "The Lord of the Isles," the scene of which is laid hereabouts, and in the islands on the W. Fine promenade along the bay. Dun- staffnage Castle, 4 M. N. E., was the seat of the Scottish monarchs for more than 3 centuries (a.d.

80 SCOTLAND. Staffa.— Iona.

300-600) . There was the famous Coronation Stone, finally removed to Westminster. Admission to the castle, free.

To Staffa and Iona is a sea voyage of about 90 M. (10 hrs.). Boats leave the pier at 8 a. m. ' Fare, about 20s., including the landings at Staffa and Iona. The steamer passes on the r. DunoUie and Maiden Island, and the Lighthouse, at the S. end of Lismore, near which is the Lady Rock, where, according to tradition, a vindictive High- lander left his wife to perish by the rising tide. The boat next passes through the Sound of Mull, which separates Mull from the mainland ; crosses the mouth of Loch Aline, on whose shore lived Dr. Norman McLeod, the former editor of Good Words; calls at Tobermory, near the mansion of Alexander Allan, of the Allan Line ; passes the Galiach Point, whence a good view N. can gener- ally be had as far as Skye ; and then goes S. to ^

The Island of Staffa, 8 M. from Mull. It is of irregular oval shape, and 1^ M. around. This island and Iona are owned by the Duke of Argyll. When the sea is reasonably calm, passengers are conveyed in small boats into the mouth of Fin- gal's Cave, 60-70 ft. in height, supporting an en- tablature of 30 ft. additional. The pillars by which it is bounded on the W. side are 36 ft. high ; on the E. only 18 ft. The length is 227 ft. The finest views are obtained through the end of the causeway at low water. The front and sides are composed of countless ranges of col- umns. A shepherd and his wife were sent to Staffa, to take care of the sheep; but the noise of the waves was so dismal that they begged to be taken aw^ay. 8 M. S. is Iona (4 S(iuare M. in area), which was founded in the 0th cen-

SCOTLAND. CAI.EDONIA Canal. 81

tury by St. Columba and the Culdees, and often ravaged by the Norsemen and Danes. Visit the ruins of the 'Nunnery of St., Mary, dating from the 13th century; and the ancient Cathedral; also the great Stone Gross, the only one remain- ing of 360 once standing on the island, but broken and thrown into the sea at the Reforma- tion. The run back to Oban by the S. of Mull is. in fine weather, very charming. Do not forget plenty of wraps and waterproofs.

Another excursion made in one day, is from Oban to Loch Etive, Glen Etive, and Glencoe, thence to Balachulish, returning by Loch Linnhe. Time about 10 hrs. Another is from Oban to Ford by the Pa^s of Metfort, returning by Loch Awe and the Oban Rly. This may be made comfortably between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. Another is to Fo?'t William, Ben Nevis, and Banavie, interesting but long, for vacation tour- ists.

The Caledonian Canal.— People who have time to go to Inverness should take steamer through the great Caledonian Canal, built 1803-47, and 60^ M. long. It was necessary to cut through only 23 M. as the sheets of fresh water which abound in the Great Glen of Scotland were util- ized. The depth of water is about 17 ft. The steamer going N. leaves Oban at 6 a.m and ar- rives at Inverness at 5.05 p.m. One may take a steamer at 5 p.m., and sleep at Banavie (Bana- vie Hotel) or Fort William (Caledonian). Loch Linnhe, through which the steamers pass, is famous for beautiful scenery. Fort William was one of the keys of the Highlands, built by Gen. Monk. Note Inverlochij Castle, famous in an- cient wars, near the mouth of the Limdie. From

82 SCOTLAND. Loch Lochy.

Fort William to Banavie is 3 M. Ben Nems, near here, 4,406 ft. high, is the highest mt. in Scotland. It is a vast mass of brown porphyry, cleft with glens and fissures ; and on its crags the snow lies all summer. The view is 100 M. in diameter, including all the chief peaks of Scotland. From Banavie, the ascent (8 M.) occupies 3^-5 hrs. (descent, 1^ hrs.) Oleii Nevis is worth a visit. Shortly after leaving Banavie, the steamer passes (on the r.) the ruined To?- Castle. On the W. side of Loch Lochy see the ruined home of Lochiel, whose fidelity and exile are famous. Loch Lochy is 10 M. long; and a canal, 2 M. in length, leads to Loch Oich (4 M.), the central lake of the chain, as well as the smallest and highest. On its W. shore stands Invergarry Castle, burned in the revolution of 1745 ; and near the castle is "The Well of Seven Heads," commemorating the vengeance on the murderers of the Keppochs. At Aherchalcler the steamer descends 7 locks to Fort Augustus. Pas- sengers can walk down in about 1^ hrs. At Fort Augustus is the College of St. Benedict, a vast pile of buildings in the Early English Gothic style. Loch Ness, "the loch of the cataract," is 24 M. long, and has a depth of 130 fathoms. At the pier of Foyers the steamer stops long enough to permit a visit to the beautiful Fall of Foyers (1 M. S.), "the most magnificent cataract in Britain." The height of the larger fall is about 90 ft. Burns wrote a fine description of the scene. There is a charming route along the hills, between Foyers and Inverness. This is the country for pedestrian tours. At the N. base of the great peak of Mealfourvonie, are the ruins of Urquhart Castle, besieged in 1303 by the

SCOTLAND. Inverness.— Nain. 83

troops of Edward I. The guides show an ar- rangement in the windows for pouring molten lead on besiegers. 8 M. from Urquhart, Loch Dochfour is entered by a narrow passage, i M. long; and the steamer presently reaches Muir- toicn, a suburb of

Inverness {Alexandra; Palace, on the river; Caledonia7i; Station; Imperial; Royal, near the station ; Waverley, temperance ) . This vener- able .capital of the Highlands is situated at the mouth of the river Ness, where the basins of the Moray and Beauly Firths and the Glen of Scotland meet. Macbeth, Malcolm Canmore, James I., Queen Mary, Montrose, and other fa- mous Scots are connected with its history. The new Cathedral of St. Andreio is a beautiful deco- rated Gothic ch. 6 M. out is the battlefield of CuUoden, where the hopes of the House of Stuart were finally extinguished, in 1746. The cairn of stones marks the place where the battle took place; and the large bowlder shows where the Duke of Cumberland took up his position. An excursion may be made from Inverness to Cawdor Castle, rendered famous by Shake- speare, and a fine specimen of the old baronial strongholds. Splendid view from the battle- ! ments. Nairn, 151 M. from Inverness, is a f ash- \ ionable resort for sea-bathing. Near it is Anld-

cai'n, where Montrose won a great battle over

the Covenanters, who lost 2,000-3,000 men. The Inverness region was the scene of Hugh Miller's geological researches. Persons who have come from Oban to Inverness mav go down to Edin- burgh via Stirling (21^ M.). ^

From Oban to Glasgow. — We return by the iCrinan Canal. This charming journey may be

84 SCOTLAND. Rothesay.— Dunoon.

made between 8 a. m. and 6 p. m., and we recom- mend it as the best way back. The boats are excellent and equipped on an American scale of comfort. From Oban the boats go down the Sound of Kerrera, pass Gylen Castle and the island of Mnll, through the Firth of Lome, and the Little Easdale Sound. There are only one or two places where the boat emerges into open water, and so nothing is to be feared from sea- sickness. The route lies inside the island of Seil to Blackmill Bay, and past the mouth of Loch Craignish, leaving Shima and Luing Islands on the r. At Crinan passengers are transferred from the boat to a little steamer, and carried through the Crinan Canal. 9 M. long, to Loch Fyne. The canal was built (in 1801) to obviate the necessity of doubling the Mull of Kintyre, a dangerous route of 70 M. The views are pretty, and the passage of the 9 locks is curious ; the journey is well worth taking. At Ardrishaig passengers go on the Columba, a large and fine steamer. Dinner is served on board (3s.). Look well to your baggage. From Ardrishaig the boat moves down Loch Fyne to Tarhert. Good views of the peaks of Ben Criia- chan on flie N., and the Arran mts. on the S. After a pleasant passage through the pictur- esque Kyles of Bute , a strait between Bute and the mainland, the boat touches at Rothesay (Queen's Hotel: Royal; Bute Arms), a hand- some town of about 10,000 inhab.. the capital of the island of Bute (18x5 M. in area), stand- ing by a fine bay. Here are the ruins of Rothe- say Castle, built before 1100; and once a royal residence. The dukedom of Rothesay was the first conferred in Scotland. The brother of the

SCOTLAND. Stirling. 85

Earl of Argyll burned the castle in 1685. See the ruins of the choir of the old Kirk of St, Mary. Rothesay is a favorite summer resort. The climate is very mild and genial. Consump- tive invalids have found a decided benefit at Rothesay. Hydropathic establishments near the town. From Rothesay to Dunoon {Argyll; Grown; McColVs) is a sail of 10 M. Dunoon is one of the large watering-places on the Clyde, and the neighborhood is picturesque. From Dunoon to Greenock, 8 M. by steamer. Passen- gers can save about 1 hr. by taking train from Greenock to Glasgow.

Glasgow to Stixling, Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen, and Edinburgh.

We now recommend the traveller to go by rail (30 M.) from Glasgow direct to

Stirling {Golden Lion; Royal; Lennox; Wa- verly, temperance), one of the most interesting towns in Scotland. It is on the river Forth ; and its Castle stands on the top of a huge rock overlooking the broad Carse of Stirling. Here Alexander I. died in 1124 ; and in 1304 the stout fortress sustained a three-months' siege by Ed- ward I. All the besieging implements in the Tower of London were brought up ; and it was due to one of these terrible engines, called "The Wolf," that the castle surrendered. This was the key of the main passage between the N. and S. of Scotland. Edward II. fought the fatal bat- I tie of Bannockburn, in his endeavor to raise the . ! siege laid to the proud castle. Edward Balliol j captured it after the death of Bruce ; and King I David recovered it only after a violent siege.

86 SCOTLAND. Cambuskenneth Abbey.

It was a royal residence under the Stuarts. James II. and James V. were born here; James III. built the Parliament House ; James IV. made it his favorite residence. James V. built the Palace, which occupies the S. W. portion. The sculptures are very rich and grotesque. A few of the original "Stirling heads" — wooden effigies of the Scotch kings — may be seen in the old Court-room in Broad-St. Stirling Castle was taken by Gen. Monk in 1651, and beat off Prince Charles in 1745. In the Douglas Room the pow- erful Earl of Douglas was stabbed by his sov- ereign. Stirling Castle is now an infantry bar- rack. The vieio from the battlements is im- posing. The Vale of Menteith, Ben Lomond, Ben Venue, Ben A'an, Ben Ledi, are all distinctly seen. N.-E. are the Ochil Hills ; S., the Campsie Hills ; and on the N., the Abbey Craig, Cam- buskenneth Abbey, the Wallace Monument, and the Bridge of Allan. See the Bruce Monument ; the Back Walk W. of the Castle Rock ; the arey- friars Ch., erected in 1494 by James IV. (James VI. was crowned there in 1567, and John Knox preached the coronation sermon) ; Argyll's Lodg- ing and Mar's Work, the most interesting of the old ho.uses ; the Town House, in Broad-St., in front of which Hamilton, the last Catholic Archbishop of ScotlaiiQ, was hanged in 1571 ; Cowan's Hospital; the Cemetery (many stat- ues), S. of the Esplanade; the Old Bridge, near which was fought the battle of Stirling (1297) when the Scots under Wallace defeated the Eng- lish.

Excursions from Stirling. — To Cambuskenneth Abbey (1 M.), founded in 1147, and once the richest abbey in Scotland. — To the Wallace

SCOTLAND. Dunblane.— Perth. 87

Monument (by tramway, 2d.), a tower 220 feet high, on a rock called Alley Craig (560 feet.) — To Lake of Menteitli and beautiful Aberfoil, on the river Forth.— To Bridge of Allan (3 M.), re- sorted to for the Airthrey chalybeate water. Dunblane {Hydropathic; Stirling Arms), near by, is celebrated for the Cathedral of St. Blane, a good specimen of Gothic architecture. It was rebuilt in 1240, and shattered by the Reformers in 1559. Battlefield of SherifCmuir (1715) close by. Beyond Dunblane, is Doune Castle. — to Bannockburn where Robert Bruce and 30,000 Scots defeated Edward II. and 100,000 English- men, restoring the independence of Scotland. — To the noble ruins of Linlithgoio Palace, a fa- vorite seat of the kings of Scotland.

Perth {Station; Royal British; Royal George; 'Macmarter's, temperance) may be visited from Stirling (69 M.). A superbly situated city, of 40,- 000 inhab., with monuments to Scott and Prince Albert, and a handsome new Anglican cathedral. In the quaint Ch. of St. John, John Knox preached. The North Inch and South Inch, by the side of the Tay, are the parks of the city, and were the scene of the battle described in The Fair Maid of Perth. When Agri.cola estab- lished Roman camps hereabouts, Perth was al- ready a town ; and from the overthrow of the Picts until 1437 (600 years) it was the capital of Scotland. In 1210 it became a royal burgh ; in 1310 Robert Bruce stormed its walls ; and in 1437 James I. was murdered here. An old house in Curfew Row is believed to be that described by Scott as the home of the "Fair Maid." Scone Palace, on the site of the famous old Alley of

88 SCOTLAND. Dunkeld.— Dundee.

Scone, in which the Scottish Iviiigs were crowned, is 2i M. N.

The Highland Rly., which extends 144 M. from Perth to Inverness, and 161 M. from Inverness to Wicli, passes through some of the loveliest scen- ery in Scotland. Dunkeld {Birnam; Royal), on this line, 16 M. from Perth, has a rare old cathe- dral, and is close to Birnam Hill. On this line also is the Pass of KiUiecrankie, a remarkable bit of glen scenery. The field where Dundee's Highland clans crushed William III.'s redcoats in 1689, is near by. Pitlochrie {Fisher's; Athol Hydropathic) and Blair Athole {Athole Arms; Bridge of Tilt) are the best points for excur- sions.

From Perth a trip can be made (22 M.) to Dundee (Queen's Hotel; Royal; Royal British; Mather's, temperance), the third town in Scot-' land in population (170,000), and the principal seat of the British linen and jute trades. It is on the N. bank of the Tay, 12 M. from its mouth, and has a fine range of docks, covering 40 acres, see the Customs Offices, and the Royal Arch; also the Esplanade, running from the Craig Pier to Magdalen Point, where the Tay Bridge had its N. terminus. A square tower, 150 ft. high, is all that remains of old St. Mary's Ch., founded by David, Earl of Huntingdon, on his return from the Crusades. The Royal Exchange, in Albert-Square, the Albert Institute, and the Free Lihra7'y are worth visiting. Within easy reach of Dundee or Perth is Brpchin, with interesting ruins of a cathedral and castle, and an ancient round tower; Montrose, a quaint little seaport, once a royal burgh ; Diinottar Castle, towards Aberdeen, a huge ruin on a rock in the sea ;

SCOTLAND. Aberdeen. 89

and Arltroath, a busy port, with fine ruins of an Abbey founded in 1178. 15 M. S. (by rly.) is St. Andrews, a grave, neat, and picturesque port, witti the oldest university in Scotland (founded 1411), and the Madras College. It is "a perfect Nineveh of ecclesiastical ruins," hav- ing the remains of a noble cathedral and priory, the mysterious Tower of St. Regulus, part of the castle-palace of the primates of Scotland, a beautiful fragment of the Domincian monastery, and two fine old chs. From Dundee to Forfar (21 M.), is a pleasant journey. In the County Hall of Forfar is preserved the Witch's Bridle, placed as a gag on the mouths of the miserable victims burned for witchcraft. Glamis Castle, 5 M. W. of Forfar, is a grand old baronial edifice, celebrated by Scott and Shakespeare. From For- far those who have the time may go along the coast to

Aberdeen (Imperial Hotel; Palace; For- syth's, temperance). Steamers to Leith and London; and N. to Wick, Thurso, Kirkwall (the Orkneys), and Lerwick (the Shetlands). Aber- deen, "the Granite City," is a finely built town of 180,000 inh. on a cluster of hills on the Dee. at its mouth. The Dee is crossed by four hand- some bridges. Union-St., 1 M. long, with its vista of grayish white granite, is much ad- mired. The ancient E. and W. Chs. contain some curious monuments, and the tomb of Beat- tie the poet. See the statue of Prince Albert; handsome Gothic Toicn and County Buildings; the Cross, built in 1686, and covered with medal- lions of the Scottish monarchs; and the hand- some Marischal College (founded 1593), forming with King's College (1494) the University of

90 SCOTLAND. Balmoral Castle. — Braemab.

Aberdeen. See the new Mitchell Town Hall (ad- mission daily, 11-12 and 2:30-3:30). The docks cover 34 acres and admit the largest ships. Aber- deen clipper-ships are famous the world over. 1 M. N. lies Old Aberdeen, the site of the ancient King's College (1494), famous for exquisite wood carving, in chapel ; and the Cathedral of St. Machar. The Auld Brig o' Balgoioiiie, celebrated by Byron in Don Juan, is 1 M. N. The Deeside Rly. runs to Ballater (4?^ M.), whence motor- buses to Braemar (18 M.) ; tourists who have visited Aberdeen may return this way. Between Ballater and Braemar stands Balmoral Castle, the favorite residence of Queen Victoria. It is in the Scottish baronial style, and consists of two blocks, connected by wings. The property was bought by Prince Albert, and comprises 10,- 000 acres of cleared land, with 30,000 acres of deer-forest. Braemar (Invercauld Arms; Fife Arms) is in the midst of a wMldly picturesque country. From this ix)int one may push on to Glen Tilt and Blair A thole and come down through the Killiecrankie Pass to Perth. Trav- ellers who do not wish to visit Aberdeen, etc., can go from Dundee to Edinburgh by Burntis- land (Forth Hotel), a pleasant seaside resort, 20 M. from Edinburgh.

Edinburgh, Melrose, Abbotsford.

Many persons will content themselves, after the trip through the Trossachs, to Oban and down, with a trip from Glasgow to Stirling and Edinburgh. The direct routes between the two principal cities of Scotland are uninteresting.

Edinburgh (Balmoral; Carlton; Royal; Cale-

SCOTLAND. Edinburgh. 91

dcmian Station; North British, at Waverly Sta- tion; Royal British; Old Waverley, temperance; Bedford, Grosvenor, private hotels) is one of the most beautiful towns in Europe ; and history and legend, uniting their charms, have made it es- pecially fascinating to the traveller. It has 350,- 000 inhab. (suburbs included). It is situated in the N. part of Midlothian, nearly 2 M. from the Firth of Forth. A large, open valley divides it into the Old and New Towns, the one a kind of epitome of the strange history of Scotland for the last 500 years; and the other a singularly handsome and well-built modern town. There is a striking resemblance between Edinburgh and Athens; and it was from this fact that the Scottish capital acquired its title of the "Mod- ern Athens." A fire destroyed the town in 1537 ; and the oldest date on any private house is 1657. It was opposite the sloping ridge of rock, called Arthur's Seat (because King Arthur defeated the Saxons near by), that King Edwin, who gives his name to the city, founded his "burgh" in the 7th century. For 400 years the city formed part of the Northumbrian kingdom. Early in the 11th century Lothian with its castle was added to the kingdom of the Scots. The city was long the favorite capital of the Stuarts.

Princes-St. is a terrace, separated from the Old Town by a broad valley of gardens. In the E. gardens stands the Scott Monument (built 1840-44), the niches of which are filled with figures of the great novelist's heroes and heroines. Beneath the central canopy is a statue of Sir Walter Scott. A staircase leads to the top (200 ft.). Near by, stand bronze statues of Livingstone, Adam Black, and Prof. Wilson

92 SCOTLAND. Edinburgh.

(Christopher North). The gardens are divided into two sections by the Mound, on which stand the beautiful classic buildings of the Royal In- stitution and the National Gallery. The former contains the Statue Gallery (open only to art- students). The School of Design in this build- ing has many pupils. The National Gallery (open daily, exc. Sund., 10-4; Thurs. and Fri., 6d.) is S. of the Royal Institution. Here are good paintings by Van Dyck, Veronese, Watteau, Teniers, Reynolds, Hogarth, Landseer, and Wil- son. The annual exhibitions of the Royal Scot- tish Academy take place here from February to May. See in W. Princes- St. Gardens statue of Allan Ramsay, the Scottish pastoral poet. Nearly opposite the University Club is a statue of the famous physician, Sir James Simpson. In the West churchyard is the grave of Thomas de Quincey. Near the Caledonian Station is Castle Terrace, on which stands the Synod Hall of the U. P. Church. Crossing the railway from the West Garden you reach the base of the Castle Rock, and may ascend by the Wellhouse Tower (a part of the first town wall, erected in 1450) to the uppermost walk.

The Castle stands on a precipitous rock about 300 ft. above the valley, accessible only from the E. side. This was an impregnable strong- hold before the days of gunpowder. To-day it is an infantry barrack for 1,200 men, and has an armory containing 30,000 stand of arms. The so-called Half-Moon Battery faces to the N. E. The main approaches to the castle are by High- St. and Castle Hill. See the Stone Cross erected to Scottish soldiers who fell in the Indian mutiny. You enter the castle by crossing a drawbridge

SCOTLAND. Edinburgh. 93

over a moat. See the State Prison, where many adherents of the Stuarts were confined. On the r. is the Argyll Battery; a little beyond, the Armory, the Prison, the Old Palace Yard, and the Crown Room (open daily, 11-3). Here are the Regalia, sometimes called the Honors of Scot- land. They consist of a crown (Robert Bruce's, with which Charles II. was crowned), sceptre, sword of state (given by Pope Julius II. to James IV.), treasurer's rod of office, etc. Queen Mary's Room is a small apartment in which Queen Mary gave birth to James VI. On the wall is a black-letter inscription, with the Scot- tish arms. On the Bomh Battery stands Mons Meg, an enormous gun made at Mons, in Bel- gium, in 1476, of thick iron bars hooped to- gether. From this battery see the whole of Edinburgh and environs. Here is Queen Mar- garet's Chapel, the oldest and highest part of the castle, built about 1050, and named for Mal- colm Canmore's Saxon queen. The castle has been captured by Henry II., Edward I., Bruce, Sir Wm. Douglas, and Cromwell ; and repulsed Prince Charles's army.

On Queen Street is the building of the National Portrait Gallery (daily, except Sunday, 10-5; Thurs. and Frid., 6d., other days free). Flaxman's statue of Robert Burns is here, also Drummond's drawings of old Edinburgh. This building contains the National Museum of An- tiquities (daily, except Mond., 10-4; Thurs. and Frid., 6d., other days free). John Knox's pulpit is here, also Jennie Geddes' stool which she threw at Dean Hanna, in St. Giles's Church, Robin- son Crusoe's sea chart, the blue ribbon worn by Prince Charles as Knight of the Garter, the

94 SCOTIiAND. Edinburgh.

Solemn League and Covenant of 1638, signed by Montrose, the "Torturing Maiden," and many Celtic and Roman antiquities.

High-St. wa^ once one of the finest in Europe ; but its quaint old houses now compare but poorly with those in the New Town. Note: Cannon- l)all (fired from the castle in 1746) sticking in the gable of the old mansion of the Duke of Gordon; Ramsay Lane, on the 1., where lived Ramsay the poet; the General Assembly Hall of the Church of Scotland. It was along the W. Bow that Montrose and Argyll were conveyed in the executioner's cart to the Grassmarket, the place of public execution. On the 1., James's Court, where David Hume wrote part of his History of England, and where Boswell enter- tained Johnson in 1773, and Paoli. Burns lived in Baxter's Close, and Cromwell in Byre's Close. In Bank-St., the splendid Bank of Scotland; on the r. the County Hall, near the open space where stood the old Tolhooth, called The Heart of Midlothian. The Tolhooth was the House of Parliament, the principal Court of Justice, and the prison. Midway in High-St. is St. Giles's Ch., whose tower is terminated by a huge imperial crown, visible from afar. The original ch. was built before 1350, and was the cathedral of Edin- burgh. Knox ministered here, and here the Solemn League and Covenant was signed. The Reformers cast out 40 images of saints, and di- vided the building by partitions, so that three congregations might worship therein. James VI., when about to ascend the English throne, here took leave of the citizens. In the Crypt are the tombs of Montrose and the Regent Murray. S. of St. Giles is Parliament Square.. See, in the

SCOTLAND. Edinbubgh. 95

pavement here, a stone inscribed "I. K. 1572," which marks the grave of John Knox. Also, an equestrian statue of Charles II. On the S., Parliament House, a modern Italian structure, now used as courts of justice. Parliament Hall, 122 ft. long and 49 wide, is very handsome. See statues and portraits of the Scottish jurists. Near by are the Advocates' Library and the Signet Library. The first contains 300,000 vols., and a vast collection of MSS. See here the May- ence first edition of the Bible. On the N. E. side of St. Giles's Ch. see the City Cross. Oppo- site are the City Chambers in which is the City Museum, with memorials of Burns. Where High-St. is intersected by the N. and S. Bridges stands the Tron Church, named from a public tron, or weighing-machine. When the shop- keepers weighed falsely they were nailed up by the ears. Farther down is John Knox's House (open daily, 10-4; 6d.). The interior is a laby- rinth of small and low-ceiled rooms. On the outside is the inscription : "Lo/e . God . aboue . al . and . your . mchtbour . as . yi . self. Here Knox is said to have lived from 1559 to 1572, and to have died. From Knox's house to Holy- rood, High-St., is called Canongate. On the 1., Canmigate Tolbooth, built in 1591. Back from the street. The Ch. of the Canons, built in 1688. In the Cejnetery are buried Adam Smith, Dugald Stewart, and other celebrated Scots. On the 1., Queensberry House, an ancient ducal palace, where the poet Gay once dwelt; now used as a house of refuge.

Holyrood Palace and Abbey was founded by King David I., who is said to have been saved from the horns of a stag, driven to bay near this

96 SCOTLAND. Edinburgh.

spot, by a luminous cross in the sky. The Holy Rood, which David intended to deposit there, was a fragment of the True Cross. The palace (free daily, ex. Frid., 10-6; Sund., 2-5) was be- gun by Charles IV., and burned by the English in 1544, and again by Cromwell's soldiers in 1650. The most interesting section is Queen Mary's Apartments, entered by a door on the N. side of the inner court. The rooms on the first floor were occupied by Darnley. In the little boudoir Rizzio was assassinated while at supper with Mary, March 9, 1566, by Darnley, Ruthven, and others. The guides show some dark stains on the floor, said to be Rizzio's blood. The present palace was rebuilt in the reign of Charles II. The picture-gallery is hung with 111 hypotheti- cal portraits of Scottish kings. The Chapel Royal is a beautiful but ruinous fragment of the old Abbey, founded by David. Charles I. was crowned here in 1633. In the vaults are buried David II., James II., James V. and his Queen, and Lord Darnley. Just S. of Holyrood is the Queen's Park. Arthur's Seat, 822 ft. high, is behind Holy- rood. A good road, the Queen's Drwe, runs round it. The ascent may be made from Holy- rood by crossing the Park, or by following the drive to Dunsappie Loch, and then up from that point. On the hill are the ruins of St. Anthony's Chapel. See, near the Park-keeper's lodge at St. Leonard's Hill, the cottage of "Jeannie Deans." The historic Coicgate, built in 1500, is now one of the dirtiest lanes in the Old Town. It ends in the Grassmarket, near the centre of which is the Ccyrn Exchange. At the head of the Cow- gate stands the house in which Lord Brougham was born; and in the ch.-yard of Greyfriars

SCOTLAND. Edinburgh. 97

are the tombs of the historian Robertson, Allan Ramsay, and other famous men. HerioVs Hos- pital, a magnificent turreted quadrangle (built by Inigo Jones, 1628-50), is worth a visit. The University (session Nov.-April), at the S. end of S. Bridge, was founded in 1582 by James VI. It has one of the best medical schools in Europe. There are about 2,000 students. Library, 150,- 000 vols. In Drummond-St., opposite the Col- lege, stood Darnley's house, where he was blown up in 1567. Near the head of College Wynd stood the house in which Walter Scott was born. It was pulled down in 1871. Behind the University is the Edinburgh Museum of Science and Art. At the N. end of George IV. Bridge is the Free Pub- lic Lilro/ry erected mainly through the liberality of Mr. Andrew Carnegie.

Crossing the Mound into the New Town, one finds the streets as wide and handsome as in the Old they are narrow and ugly. Gk) up Calton Hill, at the E. end of Princes-St., and visit Nel- son's Monument (fee, 3d.) ; good view from the top. On this hill is the National Monument to the Scottish soldiers who fell in the Peninsular and Waterloo campaigns, — an unfinished build- ing, copied after the Parthenon at Athens ; also, the Observatory; and the Dugald-Stewart Monu- ment, copied from the Choragic Monument of Lysicrates at Athens. Just beyond is Playfair's monument. At the base of the hill is the Royal High School, an adaptation of the Temple of Theseus at Athens. To the S. is Burns's Monu- ment, erected in 1830. At the corner of the N. Bridge, the Post-Office. In the Registry Office, on the r. at the end of Princes-St., are autograph let- ters of Queen Mary, etc. To the E. of the Scott

98 SCOTLAND. Leiith.

monument, are the Abraham Lincoln Monument, the Martyrs' Monument in memory of the Scotch who were liilled in the U. S. Civil War, the Prison, and the tomb of David Hume. See Waverley Bridge.

Other objects of Interest. — The Royal Bank; the new Waverley R. Sta.; the bronze statues of Pitt and George IV., by Chantrey ; St. Andrew's Ch. ; statue to Chalmers, erected in 1878, bas- reliefs illustrative of the Prince Consort's career ; the Edinburgh Philosophical Institution in Queen- St. ; the stately Episcopal Cathedral of St. Mary, built by Sir Gilbert Scott ; the Deaii Bridge, span- ning the Water of Leith, 106 ft. high ; the Dean Cemetery, where Lords Jeffrey. Cockburn,* Ruth- erford and Murray, and Prof. Wilson are buried ; the Fettes College; "the 8. Cemetery, at the Grange, where Hugh Miller, Dr. Chalmers, and Dr. Guthrie are buried; the Royal Bank Garden; the Warriston Cemetery, where Alexander Smith the poet is buried.

Leith (85,000), the port of Edinburgh, is 3 M. N., reached by horse-cars and steam-cars; trains every ^ hr. There are 2 piers stretching 3,000 ft. into the Firth of Forth. Walk down one, take ferry across to the other, and come back on it. Mary Queen of Scots had a brilliant reception on landing here from Calais in 1561. Huge ship- building yards, glass-works, and flour-mills here. Large trade in corn and timber with Baltic ports. The Albert Dock covers 14 acres. Leith Fort was built by Cromwell. W. of Leith is Newhaven {Peacock Inn, celebrated for fish dinners). The fishwives here, of Scandinavian descent, are re- markable for their costumes, and noted for their virtue.

SCOTLAND. RosLiN Chapel. 99

Excursions from Edinburgh.— To Granton Pier, 2 M.. stopping to visit the Royal Botanic Gardens (admission free). Good view of Edin- bnrgti. Magnificent pier, built by the Duke of Buccleuch. At Granton the English troops that invaded Scotland in 1544 were landed. From the pier, steam ferry to Burntisland in Fife. — To Trinity, good bathing. — To Hawthornden and Roslin Chapel (open 10-6; Is.) Train to Haw- thornden station. This chaming mansion, "grafted on an old fortified Peel tower," was built by the poet Drummond, born in 1585 ; and here Ben Johnson came to visit him, walking all the way from London. Lender the mansion are caves, inhabited by natives before huts were known. Cross the Esk and go along the roman- tic glen to Roslin (l^M.), getting a fine view of the castle and chapel as you leave the ravine. Battle fought in 1302 on the Moor near by. Ros- lin Chapel is the choir of an unfinished ch., founded in 1446. Ferguson thinks "the chapel owes its beauty entirely to the profusion of its decorations." The castle, on a mound below, is a mere ruin. The Valley of the Esk is lovely. If you go back to Edinburgh by road, you can pass by Morning side, and see the stone on which James I. fixed his standard before he set out for Flodden Field. — Dalkeith Castle, Newdattle Abhey, Dalhousie Castle, Borthivick Castle, Crichton Castle, all or near the Esk, are well worth visiting.

All Americans should visit Melrose, Abbots- ford, and Dryburgh. Take express train (Pull- man car attached)' to Melrose station (37 M.). Hotels at Melrose: George and Ahhotsford; Ahhey; King's Arms. Melrose Abbey was

100 SCOTLAND. Melrose Abbey.

founded by David I. in 1126, and completed in 1146. The monks who dwelt there were among the first Cistercians in Scotland. The Abbey was destroyed by Edward II. in 1322, but rebuilt later under the patronage of King Robert Bruce. The architecture is Second Pointed, mingled with Flamboyant. The present structure dates from about 1375. The Duke of Buccleuch now owns the Abbey. Entire length of edifice, 258 ft.; breadth of transepts, 137 ft. The Choir, the Transepts, the Nave, entered by a wooden gate at the W. end, and the S. Aisle, are in best pre- servation. The Abbey forms a Latin cross, with a square tower, 84 ft. high, in the centre. Beside the high altar, under the noted E. Window, lies Alexander II. ; and here the heart of Robert Bruce is deposited. The tomb of the wizard. Michael Scott, is in the Aisle of St. Mary. Note the delicate chiselling of the outer side of the doorway leading into the cloisters. Over the S. door (outside) is a beautiful sculptured canopy, and above it a noble window. Above the E. window are figures, supposed to be David I. and his queen. Under the fifth window is Sir David Brewster's tomb. Moonlight effects quite equal to Sir Walter's enthusiastic description. Some prefer to go directly from Melrose to Ab- botsford, and to see the Abbey on the return. A one-horse carriage to and from Abbotsford (3 M.) costs 6s. 6d. ; double team, 8s. 6d. ; public coach, Is. 6d. The walk is a pleasant one. Per- sons in haste can leave Edinburgh at 10.30 a.m. ; reach Melrose in 1 hr. ; drive over to Abbotsford, see it, and return, in 2 hrs. ; give ^ hr. to Mel- rose Abbey ; lunch at one of the hotels near by ; then take carriage to Dryburgh Abbey, see it,

SCOTLAND. Drybuegh Abbey. 101

and return to Melrose by way of Bemerside Hill, In 2J hrs. ; after whicli they can take an even- ing train S. Abbotsford (11-1 and 2-4, Is.) was long the home of the "Great Enchanter of the North." The author's study is the most inter- esting room. There the old writing-table, the plain leathern arm-chair, the reference books, seem to indicate that Sir Walter has but just left them. The Lihrary (20,000 vols.j contains a bust of Scott, by Chantrey, and many minia- tures. The roof is of carved oak, designed from models taken from Roslin Chapel. The Drawing- room, where Sir Walter died, and the little octa- gonal dressing-room contain many precious relics. The Armory has a fine collection of Scotch weapons. Not far away is the Chief swood Cot- tage, where the Lockharts dwelt. "Thomas the Rhymer" once lived in the neighborhood.

In Dryburgh Abbey (reached as above, or by rail from Melrose to Newtown St. Boswell's, and then li M. across country) Scott was buried (in 1832). His tomb is in the beautiful St. Mary's Aisle, and on either side are the tombs of his wife and eldest son. Lockhart also lies there. The Abbey (admission Is.) was founded in 1150 by Hugh de Moreville, and destroyed, like Mel- rose, by Elward I. The Chapter-House is still entire. On a hill near by is an efiigy of Wallace, in red sandstone.

ENGLAND. Newcastle-tjpon-Tyne. 103

ENGLAND.

Newcastle, Durham and York.

NEWCASTLE-UPON-TYNE {Station Hotel; County; York, temperance) is a place of great industrial interest (280,000 inhab.). It was Pons ^lii, the second stat. on the Roman wall. Up to the Conquest it was called Monk- chester. Newcastle is on 3 hills, on the Tyne, 9^ M. from its mouth. The Castle-keep remains, with splendid great hall, oratory, king's cham- ber, and museum of Roman antiquities. See St. Nicholas's Cathedral (14th cent.), with fine spire and rare old monuments ; St. Andrew's, very an- cient; the Li'brary; the Royal Arcade; and Stephenson's High Level Bridge. Elsimck, 2 M. out, is the seat of Sir Wm. Armstrong's im- mense ordnance works. Tynemouth has a beau- tiful ruined Priory. Newcastle is enterprising but grimy ; "the dimmest and smokiest place I ever saw," says Hawthorne. Much iron ship- building on the river. Made in 1882 an Episcopal See.

Durham {County Hotel; Rose and Crown; Three Tuns), 15 M. from Newcastle, stands on a hill almost surrounded by the river Wear, and is noteworthy for its Cathedral and Castle. The latter was built by William the Conqueror, and is the seat of a University. The Cathedral crowns the eminence on which Durham is built. It was founded in 1093, replacing an older ch.

• 'We paused upon the bridge, ai)d admired and

104 ENGLAND. Durham.

wondered at the beauty and glory of the scene, with those vast ancient towers rising out of the green shade, and looliing as if they were based upon it. As I saw it then, it was grand, vener- able, and sweet, all at once; and I never saw so lovely and magnificent a scene, nor, being con- tent with this, do I wish to see a better." — Hawthorne.

King's English Cathedrals speaks of the "view of the castle walls, and the towers of the enor- mous ch. rising close beside it, and sheer with the face of the cliff;" and, indeed, there are few bits of English scenery lovelier than those in old Durham on the Wear ("This river Wear, with its sylvan wildness, and yet so sweet and placable, is the best of all little rivers," says Hawthorne) ; or few chs. more majestic in the midst of a charming landscape. It contains the remains of the Venerable Bede (see some of his MSS. in the Cathedral library) ; those of St. Cuthbert, unearthed in 1827 ; and of Ralph, Lord Neville, who commanded at Neville's Cross. See The Galilee, a splendid chapel ; the E. Transept, or Chapel of the Nine Altars ; the magnificent Norman Nave, with its unrivalled vista ; the Chapter-House, built 1133-42 ; the Te-Deum Wm- dow; the Altar Screen, dating from 1380; the Cloisters; the Abbey Gateway; etc. Choral ser- vices twice daily. Good views of the Cathedral from the Framwellgate Bridge and the rly. stat. King thinks that the Cathedrals at Lincoln and Ely alone can be compared with this for maj- esty and beauty. From St. Giles's Ch.-yard, from the Prior's Path, and from Nine Trees, are excellent views. The Castle (fee. Is.) was long the residence of the Bishops of the Palatinate.

ENGLAND. Ripon. 105

It is now part of Durham University. See tlie Keep, now occupied by students ; tlie beautiful Normo/n Gallery; the Black Staircase; the Great Hall, with its many pictures ; . the tapestry in Bishop TunstalVs Gallery; and the very curious old Chapel. . Pleasant walks abound. Excursions to Finchale Priory (3^ M.), dating from 1496, and in a lovely vale beyond the Kepyer Woods ; to Maiden Castle, a fortress ascribed to the Ro- mans, and the Moated Grange; to Neville's Cross, commemorating the capture of David II, by Ne- ville in 1346; to Chester-le-Street, 6 M., with a noble ch. built 1286, near which is Lumley Castle (Lord Scarborough), with its famous Great Hall and Ball-Room (time of Edward I.), and Laml)- ton Castle (Earl of Durham). From Durham you may proceed directly to York. But we rec- ommend you to go to

Ripon (Spa; Unicorn; Crotvn), a. pretty city on the river Ure. It has been an ecclesiastical site for 12 centuries. The Cathedral (open daily, 11-6; choir and crypt, 6d.) was begun in 1154, roughly used by the Scots in the Border wars, fell into ruin, and was rebuilt in the 17th cen- tury. It w^as restored by Sir G. Scott in 1862- 72. The most striking point of view is the W. Front. The nave has a lofty clerestory, and an oak roof with carved bosses, and some inter- esting old stained glass. The library is in the old Lady Chapel, above the chapter-house and vestry. The Choir Screen is a splendid pile of tabernacle- work. In the N. Choir Hall was for- merly placed the Shrine of St. Wilfrid. Ripon retains many odd memorials of the past. In High St. Agnes Street is the Malson Dieu Hos- pital, founded in Edward IV. 's reign. In Stam-

106 ENGLAND. York.

ergate, chapel of Roman date. See the Hospital of St. Mwry Magdalen, founded for lepers in 1140. In Park Street is the Museum of Natural History (2d.). See the Spa Baths. Fountains Abbey, 3 M. W., within the grounds of Studley Royal (Marquess of Ripon), was established in 1132. It is reached by motor-bus (9d.). The ruins cover more than 2 acres ; and w^hen the abbey was complete it occupied 12 acres. Note almost perfect ch. on 1. From the N. transept rises a tower. There is also a great cloister, and a beautiful gallery, 300 ft. long. The Chapter- House has singular aisles, with double row of columns. Here are many tombs of the abbots. See, also, the Refectory, the Vaulted Kitchen, the Prater House. Returning to Ripon, take train to York (23 M.). On the way is Harrogate (Majestic; Queen; Prince of Wales; West Park), one of the most charming of English watering- places.

York {Station Hotel; Harker's York; Black Stvan), a city of 78,000 inh., 188 miles from London. York is said to have been founded in 983 B. c. In 150 a. d. it was a great Roman station, bearing the name Ehoracum, with an im- perial palace. Here the Emperor Severus died. Here also Constantine the Great was perhaps born, and his father Constantius died, in 307. In the Saxon era York was noted for the baptism of Edwin of Northumbria by Paulinus ; and after- wards became the favorite capital of the Danes, whose chief w^as defeated by Harold in 1066.

The visitor should first see the City Walls, 2J M. around, interruptel here and there by the rivers. These walls were built chiefly in Edward II I. 's time, but have been often restored since.

ENGLAND. York Mtnstee. 107

During the siege by the Parliamentary forces they suffered very much. On the N. and S. W. they follow the old line of the Roman wall. See MicJdegate Bar, a noble archway of Norman date, flanked by terraces with loopholes and battlements, and with figures of men-at-arms. Here the skulls of rebels to the Crown were formerly aflBxed. Close by, St. Mary's Nunnery. At 8keldergate, cross the Ouse by bridge. Be- yond the feri-y, the Bail Hill, on which William I. built his castle; Walmgate and Monkgate; an interesting Norman Bar, with Decorated upper story ; and at the Tliirsk Road one may descend close to the Cathedral, or

York Minster, which Hawthorne called "the most wonderful work that ever came from the hands of men." Open daily, 10-5 ; choir, chapter- house, and crypt, 6d. ; tower, 6d. ) . A wooden edifice was built here by Paulinus, and replaced by a stone basilica, begun by Edwin (in 627). The first Norman bishop erected a new church, which was added to within the next four cen- turies. In 1360-1400 the old Norman choir was entirely replaced by the present one. The Min- ster was reconsecrated, July 3, 1472. The total length is 524 J ft. ; breadth of nave, 104 ft. ; length of transepts, 322 ft. ; height of central tower, 213 ft. The W. Front consists of a cen- tral fagade, flanked by tw^o towers (201 ft). The front, with its 3 N. towers is Decorated. The buttresses of the towers are very massive. Between them and the portal are niches filled with figures of saints. The N. Transept is no- ticeable for its beautiful Five Sisters Window, below which is an Early English arcade. The octagonal chapter-house, with superb 14th-cen-

108 ENGLAND. York Minster.

tury windows ("the richest I ever saw or im- agined ; with all their brilliancy they were soft as rose-leaves," said Hawthorne), is the finest in England. Imposing view of the choir and central tower. Magnificent E. window, and row of sculptured figures underneath the sill. The 8. Transept is fine Early English ; beautiful rose window here. The nave aisles are of unusual width. Beautiful view from the aisle to the end of the choir. Aisles, 486 ft. The great W. Win- doio, restored in 1747, arouses the enthusiasm of archaeologists, who compare it for beauty and variety with the E. window at Carlisle. The quantity and exquisite beauty of the stained glass will remind the old traveller of some of the Spanish churches. This glass miraculously escaped damage when Fairfax took the town in 1644. The Puritans broke up most of the monu- ments and brasses. Among wall monuments, note those of Archbishop Sterne, the Earl of Stafford (son of him who was beheaded), Arch- bishop Scrope (mentioned in Shakespeare's Henry IV.), and Archbishop Markham. Visitors should see the nave in the evening, when the body of the church is beautifully lighted. The Central Toicer is remarkable for its massive piers. The Lantern Toicer, finished in the 15th century, has a vaulted roof, 180 ft. from the grounl. The N. Transept has an exquisite series of lancet windows, filled with red glass. The Chapter-house dates from the 14th century. "I never saw a piece of human architecture so beau- tiful," said Hawthorne. Doorway of trefoiled arches with a shaft, having a niche, in which is a figure of the Virgin and the Child. Notice the old oak door, covered with scrolled iron-work.

ENGLAND. York Minster. 109

The rich stone Roodscreen, separating the choir from the nave, is in 15 compartments, each con- taining a statue of a liing of England down to Henry VI. The choir is of vast height and width, and Hawthorne said that its pillars and arches are so perfect that "their beauty throws a gleam around them." Its height is 102 ft. ; width, 99 ft. The stained glass in the clerestory is partly of the 14th century, partly later ; as in the choir and in the presbytery. The great E. Windoic is the largest in England that retains its original glazing. It was erected in 1405-8, and forms a complete epitome of the Bible. The Crypt may be visited from either the N. or the S. aisle. See first the Presl)ytery and the Lady Chapel. The Vestry, Record Room, Treasury, and Li- 'brary (containing many MSS.), may be seen Mon. and Thurs., 11-1. The Horn of Ulphus, laid on the altar by one of the Lords of York- shire as a sign that he gave certain lands to the Church, is in the vestry. Hawthorne says of this cathedral : "It seems to have come down from above, bringing an awful majesty and sweetness with it; and it is so light and aspiring, with all its vast columns and pointed arches, that one would hardly wonder if it should ascend back to heaven again by its mere spirituality."

Other Objects of Interest. — Within the grounds of the Yorkshire Philosophical Society, on the Ouse (fee Is.), is St. Mary's Abbey. After the dissolution, part was changed into a royal pal- ace. See ruins of St. Leonard's Hospital, founded by Athelstan, and rebuilt by Stephen; and, be- yond the Hospital, the Multangular Tower, Ro- man below and mediaeval above. Here are many stone coflBns from the Roman cemetery. Near

110 ENGLAND. Scarborough.

this is *Sf^. Olave's Ch., in the graveyard of which Etty the painter lies buried. Near the river is the Museum of Antiquities, with very interesting collections. The Museum of the Philosophical Society contains a valuable geological exhibit. — The Castle, now a prison, is a massive edifice in which occurred many events in the early his- tory of York. It was here that the massacre of the Jews by a body of nobles and citizens, indignant at the favors shown to the Hebrews by Henry II., took place in the reign of Richard I. Clifford's Tower, the oldest part of the Castle, is open 10-4 daily ; 2d. Over the gateway is a small Early English chapel. — All Saints' Ch., in North-St., is of great age. and contains Ro- man masonry and rich stained glass. See Holy Trinity Ch., Kings Court, St. Crux Pavement, where the Earl of Northumberland, beheadel in 1572, is buried. St. Helen Stonegate, is dedi- cated to the mother of Constantine. See also St. Lawrence, outside Walmgate Bar; St. Mary the Younger, Bishop Hill ; anl St. MichaeVs, Spurrier Gate. At the latter the ringing of the curfew bell is still kept up. The principal public build- ings are: The Mansion House; the Ouildhall, with nave and aisles separated by oak pillars, and rich stained windows; Merchants' Hall, in Fossgate; and St. Williani's College, founded in 1460. Hawthorne admired York's "old churches, gnawed like a bone by the tooth of Time."

Excursions from York. — To Scarborough (Grand; Prince of Wales; Clarence Oar dens ; Royal; Pavilion) ; time 1^-2 hours. 'This is a fashionable seashore resort. On a promontory are ruins of an ancient Norman Castle. The Spa, the Promenade (6d.), the Aquarium, and Oliver's

ENGLAND. Whitby.— Hull.— Leeds. Ill

Mount (superb view), are reached by the Cliff Bridge. View from the Castle Kock very fine. Near the castle is the venerable Ch. of St. Mary. — To Whitby (Royal Hotel; Crown; Angel), 56^ M,, a summer resort, with superb sea-views. Museum and library on the W. pier. Many shops for the sale of jet. Charming drives to Robin Hood's Bay, Mulgrave Castle, and along the Esk dales. Scott's Marmion has made this region classic. Capt. Cook's circumnavigating ships were built at Whitby. Here are the venerable ruins of Whithy Abbey, where Hilda ruled, 658- 80, and Csedmon paraphrased the Bible in Saxon verse. — To Beverly {Beverly Arms ; Holderness), dating from the 8th century. Beverley Minster merits close study, with its superb Percy Shrine, rich tabernacle-work, Lady Chapel, high towered fronts. 8t. Mary's Ch. is splendid cruciform building, with many sculptures. Near here is the 'North Bar, formerly one of the tower gates, a 14th century structure. 8 M. distant is Hull {Royal Station; Victoria; Imperial), a town of 354,000 inhab., ranking as a seaport next to Lon- don and Liverpool. See the Holy Trinity Ch.; the Toion Hall; the Wilherforce Column (72 ft.) ; St. Mary's Ch.; the Trinity House, established 1369; the ancient High-St.; the Merchants' Ex- change; and the Royal Institution. — To Leeds {Queen's Hotel; Metropole; G-reat Northern Sta- tion), chief town in Yorkshire, with 430,000 inh. It is 32 M. from York. Coal and iron abound on all sides. Reclus calls Leeds "first in the world in the woollen business." The public buildings are magnificent. The Toivn Hall has a tower 225 ft. high, and 4 rich Corinthian fagades. In front are statues of Queen Victoria, Wellington, and

112 ENGLAND. Bradford. — Haworth.

Sir Robert Peel. The City Art Oallery (open daily, free) contains modern paintings. The Mii- seuni (10-4; Id.) contains a collection of anti- quities and also geological and zoological objects. The Royal Exchange, Mixed-Cloth Hall, WJiite- Cloth Hall (built in 1775), and the Neic Infirm- ary are all on a generous plan. Near Leeds is Kirkstall Aihey, beautiful ruins of ch., cloisters, and chapter-house ; Temple Newsam; rich in paintings; and Weetivood, noted for idyllic sceneiy. The Leeds University, formerly York- shire College, was established in 1904. From Leeds it is 8 M. to Bradford {Midlamd; Alex- andra), world-famous for its woollens and worsted yarns. The town (295,000 inh.) is pret- tily situated in a narrow vale. The Town Hall, of mediseval design, was erectel in 1873, and has a campanile, and a set of chimes, said to be supe- rior to those of Bruges, in Belgium. Saltaire, the model town built by Sir Titus Salt, is 4 M. dis- tant. The factory covers 12 acres, and is 6 stories high. Rly. hence (7-8 M.) to Keighley Junction, whence a branch line conducts (4 M.) to Haworth {Black Bull Inn). The village has been much altered since the time of the Brontes. The par- sonage, where lived from 1820 to 1860 the father of the marvellous girls who wrote Shirley, Janr Eyre, etc., has been much changed. All the Bronte family, except Anne, are buried at Haworth. There is a tablet to their memory in the ch. : Charlotte's signature may be seen on the register. The Bronte Museum (3d.) contains many objects relating to the sisters. Many Americans make pilgrimages to this rude moorland country, hal- i lowed by the manifestations of genius.

ENGLAND. Manchester. 113

Manchester, Lincoln, Derby, etc.

We recommend the tourist to return to Leeds, and go thence to Manchester. Many trains pass daily between these two towns (42^ M.). On the way you go through the Morley tunnel (2 M. long) ; and pass Huddersfield (Queen's Hotel; George), a handsome manufacturing town of 95,000 inhab. Near by is EirJclees Hall, on the site of the nunnery where, if we may believe the old ballads, Robin Hood was bled to death by a nun, and where the celebrated outlaw's grave is shown. Stanedge Tunnel (3 M. long) comes next. Near Ashton-under-Lyne are 100 cotton mills. Beyond Ashton the scenery is extremely beautiful.

Manchester (Queen's; Midland; Grand; Vic- toria; Albion; Grosvenor; Deansgate, temper- ance) and Salford are connected by numerous bridges. The population numbers about 890,000 ; and the two towns cover 9 square M. Reclus says : "Manchester was the Mancunian of the Romans, and in the 14th century was already known for its manufactures of stuffs, established by Flemish artisans after the religious wars. In our time it is the 'cotton metropolis.' " The 8Mp Canal, 35^ M. long, 26 ft. deep, made at a cost of £15,000,000, has converted the town into a seaport and ensured the continuance of its prosperity.

The Gothic Cathedral (1421) was restored in 1845-68. The celebrated ^'eic Free Trade Hall stands in Peter-St., near the scene of the "Peter- loo Massacre." The large hall, in which Cobden and Bright made many famous speeches, can hold 7,000 persons. The l^eio Totv-n Hall, the Royal Exchamge, the Corn Exchange, are imposing mod- em structures. In front of the Royal Infirmary,

114 ENGLAND. Doncaster.

in Piccadilly, are bronze statues of the Duke of Wellington, Sir Robert Peel, Watt, and Dalton (the chemist). Chetham College has a fine lib- rary (9.30 — 6). Owen's College (University of Manchester), in Oxford-St, is an elegant struc- ture. In the Grammar School De Quincey re- ceived his early education. See the Assize Courts, good example of Gothic architecture; the vast County Jail; the Museum of 'Natural History; the City Art Gallery; the Manchester Art Mu- seum; the Albert Memorial; the John Ryland's Library.

Manchester is reached from London by the Mid- land Rly. (189 M,), which traverses a delicious country. It is 41 M. hence to Sheffield {Royal Victoria^ Midland; Angel; King's Head), the headquarters of the steel and cutlery trade of England (with suburbs, 465,000 inhab.). Shef- field is shrouded in smoke, so that one scarcely gets a glimpse of its really fine situation on a chain of hills. 8t. Peter's Ch., with the Shrews- hii/ry Chapel; the Manor House, restored by the Duke of Norfolk ; the Shreioshury Hospital; the Univei'sity; the Mappin Art Gallery of modern paintings (10 — 5 daily; Sund. 2 — 5) ; the Public Museum (daily except Sund., 10-5) ; the statue of Elliott, the Corn-Law Rhymer ; and the Cut- ters Hall, are the principal sights. From Shef- field it is 18 M. to

Doncaster (Angel; Reindeer), a clean and well-built town, of Roman origin, on the Don ; notel for its fine Ch. of St. George, and for the famous St. Leger race, established in 1778. Near

ENGLAND. Lincoln. 115

by is the grand old Conisl)orough Castle, de- scribed in Ivmihoe.. It is 39 M. hence to the an- cient cathedral-town of

Lincoln {Great Northern Railway Hotel; Sara- cen's Head; Spread Eagle; Knight's, temper- ance), which was at the time of the Norman Conquest one of the chief British cities. Under the Roman domination it had been one of the best of their fortified camps. In 1141 King Stephen was taken prisoner, after a battle at Lincoln by Robert, Earl of Gloucester. There the Dauphin's party was overthrown by the Earl of Pembroke, in Henry III.'s minority. The city was stormed by the Parliamentary army in 1644, The Cathedral (open daily, 8-5; choir and clois- ters, 6d. ; tower, 6d.) stands on the summit of a hill, whence it can be seen for many miles around. It was founded in 1075, by Bishop Rem- igius of Fecamp; destroyed by an earthquake, about 1200 ; and rebuilt by Bishop Hugh of Ava- lon, 1220-60, and dedicated to the Virgin. The towers on the splendid W. front command a view down the vale of the Witham, as far as Boston. The length is 482 ft. ; width of W. front, 174 ft. • height of central tower, 260 ft. Note the Norman font of Remigius ; the Galilee Porch ; the choir, with wonderful wood-carving and stone-vaulting ; the Easter Sepulchre ; the tomb of Queen Eleanor (restored) ; the delicately carved screens ; the lady chapel. The big bell weighs 5^ tons. See the Cloisters, on the N. side, and their Roman pave- ment. In the Library are many Roman antiqui- ties. Monuments of Catherine, wife of John of Gaunt, and Joan, Countess of Westmoreland, of Dean Butler, Bishop Wordsworth, and many old bishops and deans. The greater part of the ch. i

116 ENGLAND. Boston.— Newark.

is early English ; but part of the W. front is Nor- man. The 13th century produced nothing finer than the rose-window in the N. transept. In the S. transept there is also a fine rose-window. See the sculptured angels in the Preshytery, or Angel Choir. Near by is the Bishop's Palace, founded by Bp. Hugh, which had fallen into ruins but is now rebuilt ; the Castle, erected by William the Conqueror (now the county courts) ; the New- port, a splendid Roman ruin, and fragments of the Roman wall; John of Gaunfs Palace; the Guildhall; the Arboretum; and the fine old Stone- bow gate.

Boston {Peacock; Red Lion) is 1-1^ hrs. S. E. of Lincoln, and has 16,000 inhab., many antiqui- ties, and some commerce. It is 5 M. from the sea. It was called Botolph's Town from the saint who founded a monastery here, in 654. St. Botolph^s; Ch., built 1309, is the largest British parish ch. i without aisles, and is 291 ft. long and 99 ft. wide, with a splendid tower, 300 ft. high, visible from afar over the sea and the fens. John Cotton was a vicar here, and U. S. Bostonians have restored one of the chapels in his memory. 32 M. by rly. from Boston is Peterborough.

Go next from Lincoln to Nottingham. Just out- side of Lincoln, curious Ch. of Bracebridge All Saints. At Newark (Clinton. Arms; The Sara- cen's Head) is St. Mary Magdalen, a splendid old ch., with fine brasses, stained windows, and a tall tower, sustaining statues of the apostles ; also a venerable ruined Castle, built in the reign of Stephen, and often besieged. Herein died King John. Belvoir Castle, the palace of the Duke of Rutland, is near by. Newark was once famous for its inns, and the Saracen's Head existed in

ENGLAND. Nottingham. . 117

the time of Edward III. Sir Walter Scott makes Jeannie Deans rest there on her way from Mid- lothian to London. Just before reaching Notting- ham, the train traverses the grounds of ColwicJc Hall, where Byron's "Mary Chaworth" lived.

Nottingham {Clarendon Hotel; Flying Horse; Victoria Station; Portland; George; Caledonian, temperance) stands on a rocky eminence N. of the river Trent. It is the chief place for the making of lace and hosiery in England (240,000 inhab.). The old town is a labyrinth of narrow and crooked streets. The Market-Place is an open area of 5^ acres, with the Exchange at its E. end. See the N. and S. Parades; Mortimer's Hole, a strange excavation from the castle to the river ; Standard Hill, where King Charles I. un- furled for the first time the royal flag in 1642 ; the Rock Holes; the Park; and Swinton Hermit- age. St. Mary's Ch. is a grand old ci-uciform building. This was a Danish town, and William I. erected a castle here, which was often besieged. The Castle, on the same lofty rock of red sand- stone, was destroyed by the mob in 1831. It has been restored, and is occupied by the City Mu- seum and Art Gallery (open 10-9, free; Frid. 6d., Sund. Id.), containing a collection of an- tiquities, paintings, and drawings by several il- lustrators. Splendid view over the Vale of Trent, to Belvoir Castle. The country round about is filled with memorials of Byron. Newstead Abbey, which he inherited when it was almost in ruins, is 11 M. N. W. Go by rail to Linby stat., 9^ M., and walk (1^ M.) to the house (open on Tues. and Frid. on pass obtained in advance). An Au- gustinian abbey was founded here by Henry II. in 1170, and fell to Sir John Byron in 1540. The

118 ENGLAND. Sherwood Forest. — Derby.

grounds and forest are beautiful. The residence has been carefully restored. The ruined ch., "a glorious remnant of the Gothic pile," and the cloister, with a fountain in its centre, are very fine ; the poet's mean bedroom is kept as he left it. Many beautiful and art-enriched halls are shown. On the lawn is the monument to Boat- swam, Byron's dog. In front of the abbey is the lake, so often mentioned in the poems.

Here you are on the border of Sherwood Forest, with legends of Robin Hood at every turn. RoMn Hood's Hill and Fountain Dale are near Newstead Abbey. 3 M. distant is Annesley Old Hall, containing the "antique oratory" mentioned in Byron's "The Dream." Hucknall Ch., where Ix)rd Byron, his mother, and his only daughter are buried, is 1 M. from Linby. Returning to Nottingham, spend the night there, and take early train (15f M.) to

Derby (Miidland Hotel; St. James; Royal; Wood's, temperance), and thence to Rowsley (Peacock Inn). Derby (106.000 inhab.) was the Roman stat. Derventio, and here Richardson the novelist was born. The fine Derby spar is found near by. There are rare old monuments in the Cavendish chapel of All Saints' Ch. Derby is the entrance to that delightful region known as The Peak of Derbyshire. Those who do not wish to make detours can reach Derby or Row^sley, from Liverpool and Manchester, by the Midland Line. The Peak is a picturesque district, containing "that beautiful scenery of the millstone grit and mt. limestone for which the county is so pre-emi- nent. This scenic interest, however, does not arise so much from the elevation of the hills as from their romantic grouping and the bold and

ENGLAND, Haddon Hall. — Chatsworth. 119

varied arrangement of the dales and doughs, which offer exquisite landscape pictures." Reach Rowsley at 9 a.m., and (leaving your baggage — except umbrella and waterproof — in the stat. cloak-room) make a bargain with a driver to take you to Haddon Hall (1^ M.) and Chats- worth (3 M.). Public conveyances will take par- ties for Is.'per person. Haddon Hall (adm. 4d.), on a hill E. of the Wye, which is crossed by a picturesque bridge, is an ancient seat of the Dukes of Rutland. There lived Sir George Ver- non (1545), whose profuse hospitality procured him the title of "King of the Peak ;" thence fair Dorothy Vernon eloped to marry her lover, Sir John Manners ; and there, in the State Bed- chamber, are the famous tapestries illustrating ^sop's Fables, woven at the Gobelins in Paris. Visitors are shown the Chaplain's Room, the Chapel, the Banqueting -Hall, the Dining-Room, with the inscription, "Drede God and honor the Kyng," over the fireplace ; the D ratving-Room, the State and Earl's Bedchambers, and PeveriVs Towei\

Chatsworth is the finest mansion in England. (Admission certain days only.) It is a favorite residence of the Duke of Devonshire, and is called the "Palace of the Peak." The old Hall was used as a fortress in the Civil War, by forces of both King and Parliament. The present S. front dates from 1687 ; the E. siae, great hall, and staircase, from 1690 ; the N. front, from 1704. See the Conservatory, Great Hall (67x20 ft), L^hapel, Grand Draicing-Room, Libraries, Dining- Room. (58x30 ft.), Sculpture Gallery (103x30 ft), Orangery, Sketch Gallery (original draw- ings by Angelo, Raphael, Dtirer, Titian, etc.),

120 ENGLAND. Matlock Bath.— Bakewell.

State Apartments, Gallery of Paintings (Titian, Salvator Rosa, Tintorretto, Murillo, Holbein, etc.). State Drawing-Room. Two of the state rooms are called those of Mary Queen of Scots, because she was long a prisoner there. The Arhwetum, Conservatory, and Gardens (6d. to gardener) should be seen. The French Garden comes first, then the Camellia and Orchid Houses; then the vast Conservatory (27Gxl23 ft.). See the Emperor Fountain, and go out by the Italian garden. The Old Hunting Towei~ and Queen Mary's Bower deserve notice. Queer old village of Edensor {Chatsicorth Hotel), outside Park gates. In the church is the tomb of Lord Frederick Cavendish, assassinated in Dublin in 1882.

Returning to Rowsley, lunch at the Peacock Inn, an old hostelry, with a pretty garden. (Write or telegraph ahead for rooms.) The famous Matlock Bath (A^ei<; Bath; Royal; Peveril, tem- perance) is in the romantic Matlock Dale, on the Derwent. Said Hawthorne: "I have never seen anywhere else such exquisite scenery." Rocky and foliage-clad crags rise 300 ft. above the river, and there are many fine grottos in them. Alas- son hill, 1,000 ft, high, commands a grand view down the Derwent defiles. Branch line from Matlock to Buxton (Palace; Old Hall; St. Ann's), 1 hr. from Manchester. Hot springs here, in the Wye Valley, used in the treatment of rheumatism and gout. 12 acres in public gar- dens.— Bakewell (Rutland Arms Inn) has a fine ch., with Vernon and Manners monuments. The rural beauty of this section is not surpassed in England. Hardicick Hall and Bolsover Castle, both in Derbyshire, are superb mansions, filled

ENGLAND. Birmingham. 121

with art-treasures. The former may be reached from Clay Cross stat., between Derby and Shef- field; the later from Langicitli. Burton-on-Trent is the site of vast ale breweries. We now sug- gest that yen go from the Derbyshire district to

Birmingham {Queen s Hotel; Plough & Har- roiv; Cohden, temperance). You can leave Not- tingham early, go to Rowsley, Haddon Hall, Chatsworth, and Buxton, and get to Birmingham at night. Birmingham is the birthplace of Priestley, a centre of liberal thought, and a great manufacturing place (525,000 inhab.). Camden said of old "Bremicham" (Brummagem ?), that "it echoed with the noise of anvils, for there were a great many smiths." Almost everything that can be made of metal is fabricated at Birming- ham. Walk through Corporation- St. and Colmon- Row. Visit the ElJdngton's Electro-plate Works; Gillott's Steel Pen Works; the Mint; the gun- works; the Town Hall, in which are held the renowned triennial musical festivals ; Council House, connected with which is the Corporation Free Library; Netv Post Office; Market Hall; Exchange; Birmingham and Midland Institute; King Edward VI.'s Free Grammar School; Ma- son College, now part of the University of Bir- mingham, the new buildings of which are at Bournbrook, one of the suburbs ; General Hos- pital; St. Martin's Ch.; Aston Hall, in the hand- seme Aston Park. The Botanical Gardens ( Is. ; on Mon., Id.) are worth notice.

Excursions may be made to (13 M.) Wolver- hampton (Star and Garter; Talbot), the metrop- olis of the Black Country, which has manufac- turing trade in tin and iron goods (95,000 in- hab.). Things to see: St. Pete7-\s Ch.; Queen's-

122 ENGLAND. Worcester.

Square, with equestrian statue of Prince Albert ; Library; Theatre; OrpJtaii Asylum. — ^To (129 M.) Stafford {Northioestern Hotel; Swan), a well-built modern town. Izaak Walton was a native of this place. See old timber-houses, es- pecially the Noah's Ai'Jc, in Crabbery-St. ; *S'^. Mary's and St. Chad's Chs.; the Bury Ring; Stafford Castle, l M. out. Leather is the chief industry. — To Kidderminster famous for the manufacture of carpets. The old ch. is a fine Gothic monument. A walk through the ch.-yard commands views of the town and river Stour. In the vicinity are the Clent Hills. Richard Baxter preached here 25 years. — To Worcester (Star Hotel; Crown; Central, temperance), nearly in the centre of England, and finely situ- ated on an ascent from the Severn. The Pore- gate-St. is very handsome. The Cathedral is an elegant structure, built in 1024-1374, 394 ft. long, 78 wide, 102 high. Beautifully decorated is the lady chapel, where the roof is covered with fig- ures painted in medallions. The fine stone pulpit in the choir is restored. See the enamelled metal cross above the choir-screen. Among the monu- ments is King John's, one of the most ancient in England ; statues of Bishops Wulstan. Oswald and Hough ; tomb of Prince Arthur, son of Henry v., a fine Gothic bit. The cloisters where the monks once resided are interesting. The hand- some decagonal chapter-house is now used as a national school. Other public buildings: Epis- copal Palace, close by the Severn : the Command- ery ; Edgar's Totver; the Guildhall (open 10-G). with royal statues ; and the Hopmarket, the most important in England.

ENGLAND. Co\'entry. 123

Coventry, Kenilworth, Warwick, Stratford-on-Avon.

It is a relief to get out of the region of fac- tories into the delightful quiet of old Coventry (King's Head; Queen's; Priory, temperance). Distance from Birmingham, 18| M. Coventry was formerly the third city in the kingdom. Everyone knows the story of Lady Godiva. An effigy, called Peeping Tom, is still exhibited at the corner of Hertford-St. In Richard II. 's time the city was defended by a wall, with 26 towers and 12 gates, some of which remain ; but the greater part of them were destroyed by Charles II. Coventry retains much of its ancient pictur- esque aspect, with narrow streets, fine old gables, and half-timber houses, and several hrs. can be profitably spent there. The "three tall spires" of which Tennyson speaks are those of St. Michael's, Trinity, and Christ Chs. St. MichaeVs, one of the finest ' Gothic structures in England, was founded about 1133. The charming spire, 303 ft. high, was built 1373-95. The ch. was rebuilt in 1434, and is 400 ft. long. "Most magnificent, — so old, yet enduring ; so huge, so rich," Hawthorne found it. TriniUj Ch. is close to St. Michael's, and was once a fine specimen of Gothic, Dug- dale finds a mention of its annexation to the Benedictine Priory in 1260. Christ Ch. was founded by the begging Greyfriars. The spire is the only remaining part of the old ch. ; St. John's Ch., at the N. W. end of the city, is a fine old building, with a massive tower. St. Mary's Hall is a beautiful edifice near St. Michael's. It orig- inally belonged to St. Catherine's Guild, and was

124 ENGLAND. Kenilworth.

built about the middle of the 14th century. The Free (School; €h'ey friar ,s or Ford Hospital; the Workhouse, built out of the remains of the Whitefriars Monastery (founded in 1342) ; and the remnants of the gates, are other objects of interest. A few fragments of the Benedictine Priory, founded in 1043, are left. About 4 M. out is Stoneleigh Abbey, a place of great an- tiquity, held before the conquest by King Edward. Henry II. granted it to a body of Cistercian monks. The site is a lovely one, the Avon bath- ing two sides of the verdant slopes on which the Oi«.i monastic house was located. There is a fine [)ark in front ; and a road, crossing the Avon by an elegant stone bridge, conducts to the gateway. The building is clothed with ivy, and its ponder- ous oaken gates are very curious. Within the state apartments are many paintings by Rem- brandt, Van Dyck, Holbein, Teniers, etc.

For those who have time, nothing can be more delightful than a leisurely tour on foot from Coventry to Kenilworth, Warwick, and Strat- ford-on-Avon ; going out from this region of fine old castles, lovely valleys, and beautiful fields, by Rugby, and thence either straight down to London, or to Peterboro' and Ely, making a de- tour to Cambridge and Oxford. For those who desire to see Kenilworth, Warwick, and Stratford, and get away to London at night, there will be no other course than to take a carriage at Cov- entry, Leamington, Warwick, or Stratford. A beautiful trip is as follows : Go from Coventry (5 M.), by a road shaded all the way by fine elms and sycamores, to Kenilworth (King's Arms; Abbey; Castle), where chief attraction is Kenihoorth Castle, standing on an eminence

ENGLAND. Kenilworth. 125

to the W. The first buildings, in a deep hollow overgrown by underbrush, are the base and side walls of the Gallery Toiver, the S. E. end of the Tilt Yard, and originally the chief entrance to the Castle. Enter by a gate in the N. wall (adm. 6d.), and first arrive at Leicester's Oatelwuse, a square building of four stories, flanked at each angle with an octagonal tower, and embattled. This building is not entered by visitors, as it is a private residence. Passing on, you come di- rectly in front of the main buildings ; and look- ing W. have the inner court in full view. The E. side of the square was composed of buildings erected by King Henry VIII. and Sir Robert Dudley, but is now wholly destroyed. On the r. is Cws-ar's Tower, a vast keep of immense strength, with walls many feet thick. Beyond is the building called Mervyn's Tower, which all readers of Scott's novel of Kenihoorth will visit. The chambers are all arched with stone, and it is supposed that they served as prisons in the time of Henry II. From the top may be seen on the r. the remains of the Stvan Tower, which formed the N. W. angle of the outer walls built in Henry III.'s time. Adjoining Mervyn Tower, on the S., is the great Banqueting -Hall, built by John of Gaunt. The floor was supported on a stone vaulting, carried on parallel rows of pillars, the remains of which may be seen. No- tice the great height of the windows, which were filled with tracery, and transomed. Beyond the Banqueting-Hall are the White Hall, the Pres- ence Chamber, and the Privy Chamber ; and still S. are the remains of Leicester's buildings, of great height and remarkable architectural beauty. The castle was founded by Geoffroy de

126 ENGLAND. Warwick.

Clinton, Chamberlain to Henry I. ; to pass pres- ently to the crown of Henry III. It was granted to Simon de Montford, and became the resort for the insurgent nobles. After Leicester's de- feat and death, his eldest son sheltered himself in this fortress ; and there was a famous siege, in which the castle held out for 6 months. In Edward I.'s time a magnificent tournament oc- curred here. Edward II. lay a prisoner in the castle at one time; and the visits of Elizabeth to Kenilworth were in 1566, 1568, and 1575. The last was immortalized by Scott.

From Kenilworth by the highway to Warwick is about 5 M., by Leek Wootton, a village built on a rocky eminence and quite picturesque. 1 M. beyond is Blacklow Hill, where, from an opening in the trees, is seen the monument erected to mark the spot on which Piers Gaves- ton, Earl of Cornwall, was beheaded. If M. from Warwick, is Guy's Cliff, the handsome country-seat of I^rd Percy, and a place of re- ligious retirement more than 4 centuries pre- vious to the time of Earl Guy Warwick, who is supposed at this place to have finished his life of adventure, as a hermit. Leland, in Henry VIII. 's time, calls this "the abode of pleasure, a place meet for the Muses." Camden, Dug- dale, and Fuller are all equally enthusiastic in its praise. Guy's Cave and Guy's Well are shown.

Warwick (Warwick Arms; Dale Temperance; these houses, though comfortable, are small and apt to be crowded ; it is best to telegraph for rooms in advance) is near the centre of beauti- ful Warwickshire, on a rocky hill, past which the Avon flows. The town is of Saxon origin,

ENGLAND. Warwick Castle. 127

and was formerly surrounded with strong walls, of which there are now but few remnants. The old gates are interesting; and the Hospital, founded by the Earl of Leicester, is one of the finest specimens of half-timber buildings. It stands at the W. end of High-St., of which its chapel, which possesses a very beautiful window, forms a striking ornament. Under the chapel is a curious vaulted passage of great antiquity, through which an entrance into the town once passed. A tower, built by Thomas de Beau- champ, in the time of Richard II., rises above the chapel. This formed the W. gateway of the for- tifications. It has a richly groined ceiling. In this hospital a limited number of brothers are allowed. They have to wear a livery when abroad, consisting of a fine blue broadcloth gown, with a silver badge of a bear and ragged staff, Lord Leicester's device. St. Mary's is the principal ch. in Warw^ick. It was founded prior to the Conquest ; and contains many curious monuments, and Beauchamp Chapel, w^hich is considered the most splendid in England, after that of Henry VII.

Warwick Castle, one of the noblest residences in England, is S. E. of the town, on a high rock which overlooks the Avon. Before entering the castle, walk down to the stone bridge, from which there is a fine view of the castle. The moonlight view is striking. Enter the castle by a huge gate, and walk up a winding way, bor- dered by moss-grown rock, to the outer court, formerly a vineyard, renowned for its grapes in the time of Henry IV. On the r. is Guy's Tower, 128 ft. high, 30 ft. in diameter, and with walls 10 ft. thick ; and on the 1. the venerable Cwsar's

128 ENGLAND. Warwick Castle.

Tower, coeval with the Norman Conquest. This is connected with Guy's Tower by an embattled wall, in the centre of which is the great arched gateway, flanked by towers and succeeded by a second, whose towers and battlements rise above . those of the first. After passing the double gate- way you are in the inner court, and see the great castle directly in front of you. When the family is absent the interior is shown (10-5.30, 2s.). The rooms showm are the Great Hall, from which a view is obtained through the state rooms, a straight line of 333 ft., terminated at the W. end by a window. From this great hall may also be seen, at the end of the Chapel Pas- sage, Van Dyck's celebrated painting of Charles I. You pass through the Red draicing-Room; the Cedar Drawing-Room, containing a bust by Hiram Powers, and a portrait of Charles I. by Van Dyck ; and next enter the Gilt Drawing- room, which contains many old paintings. The bed and furniture in the State Bedroom belonged to Queen Anne. The tapestry in this room is very fine. The Boudoir is a veritable museum ; and the effect of the immense height, and the tree-tops, which come up to the very windows, is curious. Here are pictures by Holbein, Ru- bens, Vandyke, etc. From thence pass through the Armory Passage to a billiard room, rich with portraits ; a Compass-Room, the Chapel, and the Lil)rary, in which is the famous Kenilworth buffet, made of oak grown on the Kenilworth es- tate. In the Breakfast Room is a fine collection Oi paintings by Canaletto, who resided for some time at the castle. (Fee to servant who shows the apartments : for one person, 6d. or Is. ; for a party of 4, 2s.) Caesar's Tower, nearly 150

ENGLAND. Stratford-on-Avon. 129

ft. high, has a dark and dismal dungeon be neath it, on the walls of which are scrawls made by prisoners. Guy's Tower, the top of which is reached by a flight of 133 steps, commands a noble view of Coventry, Kenilworth, Guy's Cliff. Leamington, and the neighborhood. The gardens are very fine, and on the hill of the tower are some superb cedars of Lebanon. In the Porter's Lodge are relics of the hero Guy. Hawthorne calls this "one's very idea of an old castle." From Warwick to Leamington is 2 M. A rly. runs from Leamington through Warwick to Stratford. (From Warwick to Stratford, 13i M.) The most desirable route, however, is by highway, 8 M. from Warwick, past Charlcote, the counti-y-seat of the Lucys, to Stratford. This is a delightful excursion, and we recommend those who can to make it on foot, that they may linger among the beautiful sylvan scenery, and approach Stratford through the pleasant mead- ows. Charlcote House is off the route to Strat- ford, but the drivers usually take you close to it. It is a handsome mansion in the midst of a beautiful park, well stocked with deer, the sight of which will call to mind the youthful adven- ture of Shakespeare as a poacher, and the prose- cution which decided him to render Sir Thomas Lucy immortal as Justice Shallow. From Charl- cote you pass through numerous fine bits of woodland country, and, crossing the Avon Bridge, enter ^

Stratford-on-Avon { Sliake spear e ; Golden Lion; Red Horse; Falcon; Fountain; McNeille's, tem- perance), quiet old-fashioned place, with wide, well-kept streets and many handsome mansions. The Totvn Hall was dedicated to the memory of

130 ENGLAND. Stratford-on-Avon.

the poet. Here is a statue of Shakespeare pre- sented by Garrick. On the pedestal see lines from Hamlet : "Take him for all in all, we shall not look upon his like again." Very interesting is the Shakespeare Memorial Buildimj and Theatre, which we advise you to visit first on entering the town. This memorial structure, in a charm- ing situation by the Avon, was the outgrowth of the feeling that the poet should have a suit- able monument in his native town.

Holy Trinity Church is a cruciform edifice, consisting of a nave with aisles, a transept and chancel, and a square battlemented tower, in a lovely situation by the Avon, surrounded by a ch.-yard full of tombstones, covered with quaint inscriptions. If the doors are not open, the driver will go for the keys. The ch. contains interesting monuments and some very quaint wood-carvings. The grave of Shakespeare is in the floor of the chancel, covered by a plain flag- stone. On the chancel-wall, near the grave, is an ornamental arch with a bust of Shakespere, in a thoughtful attitude. i

From this burial-place of genius it js but a short distance to the village of Shottery, where stands, embosomed in foliage, the pretty cottage once the residence of Anne Hathaway. In this humble abode Shakespeare courted his wife. It is owned by the Nation, but the present occupant shows the quaint interior ; the oaken seat on which Shakespeare and Anne were wont to sit ; many bits of venerable furniture ; and, up-stairs, a vast bed, on which many a Hathaway has drawn the last breath of life. One is also shown a visitors' book, which contains the names of a great number of eminent Englishmen and Ameri-

ENGLAND. Stratfobd-on-Avon. 131

cans (small fee). Return to Stratford and in Henley-St. you will find the Shakespeare House. This is a fine old half-timber building, in which the poet was born (1564), and where his family long lived. It consists of 3 apartments on the ground floor, one of which is a museum ; of the room in which Shakespeare was born, up-stairs ; and smaller rooms, in one of which is the cele- brated Stratford portrait of the bard, unlike the commonly received pictures, but believed by many people to be more authentic. It was painted over in Puritan times to escape destruc- tion. The room in which the poet was bom is in its original state, except that visitors of every nation and every rank have scribbled their names on the walls and windows. The autographs of Byron, Scott, Washington Irving, George IV., the Prince of Orange, the Duke of Wellington, Tom Moore, Charles Dickens, etc., are pointed out. The house is now the property of the na- tion, having been purchased in 1847 by public subscription. In the museum are early editions of Shakespeare's plays ; the deed made in 1596, showing that John Shakespeare, the father of the poet, resided in this house ; a letter from Mr. Richard Quyney to Shakespeare in 1598, re- questing a loan of £30, the only letter known to be in existence, addressed to the poet; Shakes- peare's signet ring, with the initials W. S. upon it; an old desk, said to have been his, and re- moved from the Grammar School ; the Shakes- peare jug, from which Garrick drank at the Jubilee in 1769 ; and a sword, which once be- longed to Shakespeare. Autograph sentiments, written by Washington Irving, by Lucien Bona- parte, and others, are also to be seen. Visitors

132 ENGI^AND. Stratford-on-Avon.

register their names. The old visitors' books are most curious. The first one, beginning in 1812, may be seen at Mrs. Jame's, near the Town Hall, in High-St. (Admission to Shakespeare's birthplace, Is., daily, 9-7.) The pilgrim should now come to New Place, where Shakespeare lived during his prosperous latter years, and where he died (1616). It is to-day merely a well-kept lawn. The house is gone. Opposite ■^ the Guild Chapel, founded in 1269; chancel rebuilt about 1450. In the second story of the adjacent Guild Hall is the Grammar School, where Shakesioeare was one of the pupils. Visit one or both of the celebrated inns, the Red Horse and the Shakespeare ; the former, where you can lunch before returning to Warwick, is a plain, unromantic-looking house, rendered interesting by the genius of Washington Irving. There Americans are shown the room where he stayed ; a chair, with his name engraved on a brass plate ; the poker with which he poked the fire, etc.

Harvard House, where John Harvard's mother. Catherine Rogers, lived, is now the property of Harvard University, and is the general meet- ing place for American pilgrims (admission cards, good for one day, Is.).

From Warwick go by rly. (2 M.) to Leaming- ton (Manor House: Regent; York, temperance), a famous watering place, with sulphureted saline springs. The most important building is the Royal Pump Room and Baths. The Toum Hall is a handsome building.

You may go directly from Warwick to London (97| M.). Oxford may be visited on the way; but we recommend you to go to Rugby, Peter- borough, Ely, Cambridgo, and Northampton ;

ENGLAND. Rugby. — Peterborough. 133

then from Bedford to Oxford and London. You will pass through

Rugby {Royal George Hotel; Three Horse- shoes), Dicken's Mughy Junction, famous for its Grammar School, founded in 1567. Here the celebrated Dr. Arnold was head master ; and the readers of Tom Brown will perhaps wash to visit the school. Close by is Castle ■ Mount, where a stronghold stood in the time of King Stephen. 1| M. out is Bilton Hall, where Addison lived. In the garden is Addison's favorite walk. After leaving Rugby you soon reach

Peterborough (Grand; Great Northern; Angel; Bull), anciently called Medeshamstede, and deriving its origin from a noted Benedictine Abbey, established in 655, shortly after the Sax- ons had become Christianized. The Danes de- stroyed this abbey (807), and it was restored in 966. Then the towm was named after the saint to whom it was dedicated. The abbey, when Henry VIII. dissolved the religious bodies, was one of the most magnificent in the kingdom, and was selected as the see of one of the new bishoprics. The monastic buildings suffered cruelly during the civil wars ; and the cathedral itself was sadly defaced. It is said that Henry VIII. spared Peterborough Abbey because Cath- erine of Aragon lay buried within its enclosure. The Cathedral is a noble Norman structure, 471 ft. long and 180 ft. wide. Mary, Queen of Scots, once reposed here. The cloisters are in excel- lent preservation. At the W. end of the cathe- dral is a fine court, on the S. side of which a range of the old monastic structures is still erect. The W. front (built 1250), 3 vast open arches, has been called "the grandest portico in Europe."

134 ENGLAND. Ely.

See the noble old oaken roof, the carved oaken screen, the Lady Chapel, the venerable font. Hawthorne said : "Of all the lovely closes that I ever beheld, that of Peterborough Cathedral is the most delightful, — so quiet, so solemnly and nobly cheerful." Most of the beautiful ^ass and all the records in the cathedral were destroyed by Cromwell's soldiers. The E. end was burned in 1438. In the Ch. of St. John the Baptist there are some exquisite figures by Flax- man. Peterborough has a large trade in corn, coal, etc. 2 M. out is Milton Park, the seat of Earl Fitzwilliam. 9 M. distant is Castor, with a perfectly preserved Roman fortress. 21 M. away is Foth&ringhay, with a splendid ruined ch., and the ruins of the old Plantagenet castle in which Mary, Queen of Scots, was put to death. From Peterborough it is 30 M. to

Ely (Lamb; Ball; Minster, temperance.) The Isle of Ely is a tract of high land, amid the fens ; and here a monastery was founded by St. Ethel- dreda (673). A charter was granted by Edgar, confirmed by Canute, Edward the Confessor, and the Pope. The isle made an excellent defence against William the Conqueror. The Cathedral was founded about 1082. The stalls are remark- able specimens of wood-carving. The Galilee is a beautiful porch. The Central Octagon is a superb Gothic dome, with exquisite details. Note the new oak screen, with brass gates ; the rich marble carvings in the Choir; the Stalls; Bishop Alcock's Chapel; Prior Crandene's Chapel; and the ancient Bishop's Palace. There is a Pa/rk S. of the Cathedral. The Lady Chapel was be- gun in the reign of Edward II., and is consid- ered one of the most perfect buildings of its kind.

ENGLAND. Cambridge. 135

Ely Cathedral is the longest Gothic cathedral (but one) in Europe (537 ft). The W. tower is 266 ft. high. For technical description see King's Hand-Book of English Cathedrals, which is an excellent companion in these ancient towns. From Ely proceed to

Cambridge {University Anns; Ye Olde Castle; Bull; Sirdar; Blue Boar; Livingstone, temper- ance), 56 M. from London, and on the Cam, a narrow stream that rambles all over the town. Tradition gives 630 as the date of the foundation of the University ; but the oldest college, Peter- house or St. Peter's, can be referred only to 1257. The public buildings are the Shire Hall, Totvn Hall, University Halls and Lddrary, and Fitzioilliarn Museum.

There are 17 colleges, inferior in architectural beauty to those of Oxford, though their associa- tions are quite as interesting. Trinity was founded by Henry VIII. in 1546, and has 3 fine quadrangles ; a splendid hall in the Tudor style ; gardens ; and an important library, with busts of Newton and Bacon. Thorwaldsen's statue of Byron, Newton's telescope, some of John Mil- ton's MSS., etc. Christ's College, founded in 1442, was Milton's college. In the gardens is Milton's M nil) e7Ty 'Tree. The quadrangle was rebuilt by Inigo Jones. Jesus College (1496) and Chapel are very fine buildings, on the site of a Benedictine nunnery. Caius (pronounced Kees) was founded in 1384, and enlarged in 1557 by Dr. Caius, physician to Queen Mary. Rebuilt lately, it is now one of the best. Corpus Christi (1351) contains curious portraits, es- pecially those of Sir Thomas More, Wolsey, Eras- mus, and Foxe, the author of the Book of Mar-

136 ENGLAND. Norwich.

tjfrs. King's College (1441), founded by Henry VI., is the finest building in the University. The chapel is the finest specimen of perpendicular Gothic existing. The roof, unsupported by pil- lars, contains 12 divisions of exquisite lace-work tracery in stone. The 24 stained-glass windows, each 50 ft. high, are beautiful. The music is exceptionally fine. The visitor should go to the Sunday service. St. John's, founded by Mar- garet, the mother of Henry VII., in 1511, has 4 quadrangles, a beautiful chapel, and a rare old library. See also Emmanuel, 1584 (whose erine's (1475) ; Clare (1326) ; Doioning (1807) ; erine's (1475) ; Clare (1326) ; Dotcning (1807) ; Pembroke (1347) ; Sidney ^Sus'sex (1596) ; Mag- dalene (1519) ; Trinity Hall (1347).

The most striking part of Cambridge is "the Backs," where the college gardens slope down to the river, overhung by beautiful trees and crossed by handsome bridges. The site of Cam- bridge is fla't. and forins part of the great Fen Level.

Norwich {Royal; Maid's Head; Waterloo, temperance), may be conveniently visited from Cambridge. It is a cathedral town of 125,0(X) inhabitants, the capital of Norfolk. The Cathe- dral, a Norman structure dating from the 11th century, is open daily; adm. to choir, transepts, and cloisters. 10-1, 2-6, 6d. The tower is pure Norman, with a lofty tower. The Cathedral close is beautiful in spring and summer; note the gates, the Erpingham of the 15th century, and St. Ethelbert's of the 13th century, except for the upper part which is more recent. The Castle, Norman now the home of the Norfolk MuKeum of Natural History, is open daily, 10-4,

ENGLAND. Newmarket. — Bedford. 137

adni. 3d. Tues. and Fri., other days free ; adm. to the battlements (fine view), 6d. The ch. of St. Peter contains a rural tablet to the memory of Sir Thomas Browne, the author of "Religio Medici," and a statue of the same is in the Haymarket near the church. See the Guild Hall with Tudor interior and relics of Nelson: St. Andreiv's Hall, formerly a Dominican church, in which is held the biennial musical festival for which the city is famous ; and Colman's mustard works.

Two popular watering places on the E. coast are Lowestoft {Grand; Empire; Royal) and Yar- mouth (Royal; Victoria; Queen's; Cromwell, temperance). These are also centers of the her- ring fishery.

Ipswich (White Horse; Golden Lion; Coach and Horses), is a seaport of growing importance, the capitar of Suffolk (72,000 inhab.) From Harwich (Royal), or rather from Parkeston Quay, 2 miles away (Great Eastern), steamers sail for the Hook of Holland, Antwerp, Hamburg, and Esbjerg.

Not far from Cambridge is Newmarket, the famous turf resort, which became popular in the days of James I,, who had a hunting-seat here. Near by is Burj' St. Edmunds, where an abbey (whose noble ruins remain) was founded by Canute to commemorate the martyrdom of Edmond. We proceed next to

Bedford (Swan; Emhankment; Red Lion), once the home of John Bunyan. His chair, in Bunyan Meeting, Mill-St., may still be seen ; and Bedford Jail, where he wrote a portion of The Pilgrim s Progress, still exists. Bunyan's birth- place was Elstoic, 1 M. from Bedford ; and there

138 ENGLAND. Northampton. — Oxford.

his cottage and forge are shown. Also a noble abbey-eh. See the fine statue of Bunyan, preach- ing, and holding the Bible. This stands on St. Peter's Green. Scenes from The Pilgrim's Prog- ress on pedestal. The Duke of Bedford gave this statue to the town. The philanthropist Howard was born at Cardington, 2 M. distant. The Swan Inn occupies the site of the old castle, destroyed in the reign of Henry III. From Bed- ford it is but a very short journey to

Northampton {George; Angel; Plough), the seat of the boot and shoe manufacture (88,000 inhab.). 20 Parliaments were held here be- tween the 12th and 14th centuries ; and on one occasion the University was transferred hither from Oxford. The Castle, with the exception of one tower, was demoiished in 1662. The old Hospital, founded in honor of Thomas k Becket, is near the S. gate. Interesting sights, — St. Sepulchre Ch., built by the Knights Templar, on the plan of Christ's Sepulchre at Jerusalem ; the Town Hall; the Sliire Hall; Statue by Chantrey of Spencer Perceval in All Saints' Ch. Queen Eleanor's Cross is 1 M. S. Near this relic Henry VI. was defeated by Warwick in 1460. Althorp Park, seat of Earl Spencer, with famous library and picture-gallery, 7 M. out. Go by rail from Bedford via Bletchley to

Oxford (Randolph; Clarendon; Mitre; Roe- buck; Eastgate; King's Arms Hotel; Golden Cross; Wilherforce, temperance). The modern town contains the County Jail, near the old tower of Oxford Castle ; the Toun Hall : and the Martyr's Memorial, a Gothic monument in St. Giles, near the spot where Cranmer, Ridley, and Latimer were burnt at the stake, in 1555-6.

ENGLAND. Oxford. 139

Oxford as a seat of learning dates from the time of Alfred the Great, or even earlier. The orig- inal town was demolished by the Danes. The traditions of modern Oxford go back to the Conquest, after which the monasteries founded there obtained great fame for their learning. The town-plan is a cross, 4 broad streets con- verging from the cardinal points. The central point is called Corfax, a corruption of quatre voles, or quatre faces. The curve of High-St, with its splendid architectural monuments, makes it one of the finest streets in Europe.

Public buildings to be visited : The Schools ; Bodleian Library, with its interesting portraits (daily, 9-4; adm. 3d.) ; Radcliffe Observatory; Taylor Institution; University Galleries (open daily, 11-4; adm. 3d.), containing important drawings by Michael Angelo and Raphael ; the Aslimolean Museum in the same building con- taius the Arundel Marbles, an old collection of curiosities, and an archaeological collection of great value ; University Museum, a modern Gothic building in the Park (open daily, 10-2, 6d. ; 2-4, 3d.). The laboratories are worthy of notice (open daily, after 2 p.m.). See the beautiful Gh. of 8t. Mary. University College was founded, according to tradition, in 872, by Alfred the Great, but it dates historically from 1280. Im- posing high-towered gateways, new library, etc. Balliol was founded by John Balliol, and Devor- gilla, his wife (parents of John Balliol, King of Scotland), in 1268. The building has been restored, and new halls built. Merton (1264), handsome tower and curious old architecture. Two quadrangles, and a large chapel. Exeter (1314), fine modern spire to the chapel (a copy

140 ENGLAND. IvONDon.

of La Saintc ChapeUe, at Paris). Very large buildings. Noted timber roof in hall. Oriel (132G), where at one time studied Arnold, Keble, Newman, Pusey, and Wilberforce. Queen's (1431). with hall designed by Wren. New Col- lege (1380), one of the finest architecturally, with beautiful cloisters ; fine chapel and splendid choir. Lincoln (1427), John Wesley's college. All Souls' (1437), fine buildings in two quad- rangles. Magnificent chapel, with reredos. Spacious hall. Magdalen (pronounce Maudlen), founded in 1457, with a beautiful campanile, cloisters, gardens, Addison's walk along the Cherwell. Splendid chapel (famous choral ser- vice, 5 P.M. during term), Brasenose (1512), Bishop Heber's college. Corpus Christi (151(>), almost unchanged for 300 years. Christ Church, founded by Cardinal Wolsey (1525). Fagade 400 ft. long. Attached to this foundation is the Cathedral of Christ Ch. (once the ch. of St. Frideswide's Priory). The college tower con- tains a bell, Creat Tom, which weighs 17.000 lbs. Fine library and pictures. Immense quadrangle. Through the new buildings pass into the beauti- ful Christ-Church meadows (50 acres on the rivers Isis and Cherwell. ). Trinity (1554), beautiful gardens and walks, with classical tower and chapel. St. John's (15oo), magnificent late Gothic buildings, and fine gardens. Jesus (1571), frequented largely by Welshmen. Fine hall, chapel, and library. Wadham (lOlS), beau- tiful gardens. Fine chapel and hall, with tim- ber roof. Pembroke (1624), Samuel Johnson's college. Worcester (1714), beautiful gardens and lake. Keble, built by subscription as a memo- rial to the Rev. John Keble, in 1870.

General Map of London showing Main Streeij

d iblic Buildings, and Chief Railway Stations.

ENGLAND. Lors^DON. 141

Oxford to London by Great Western Rly., 63^ M. by N. Western, 78 m. (lis., 8s. 4d., 5s. 3d.). London.

Hotels. — Ritz, Berkeley, Piccadilly; Carlton, Pall Mall ; Brotcn's and St. George's Hotel, Dover-St. ; Bristol, Burlington Gardens ; Cla- ridge's, Buckland's, Brook-St. ; Windsor, Vic- toria-St. ; Buckingham Palace Hotel; St. Erynin's, Caxton-St. ; Langham, Portland PI. ; Ford's, Man- chester-St. ; De Keyser's Royal, Blackfrairs Bridge ; Savoy. Cecil, Tbames Embanlvment ; Morley's, Trafalgar Sq. ; Victoria, Grand, Met- ropole, Northumberland Ave. ; Cnrso-n, Mayfair ; Waldoi'f, Aldwych ; Cadogan and Hans Crescent Hotel, Sloane-St. ; South Kensington Hotel, Alexandra, Hyde Park Corner ; Royal Palace. Kensington High-St. ; Bailey's, Gloucester Rd. : Hotel Russell and Imperial, Russell Sq. ; Bed- ford Hotel and Premier Hotel, Southampton Row ; Inns of Court, First Avenue, High Hol- born ; Bedford Head, Tottenham Court Rd. ; Cavendish, Prince's, Jermyn-St. There are sev- eral good hotels for men only, among which may be mentioned Fairstock, Covent Garden, and Cox's Jermyn-St. A peculiar institution of London and some other English towns is the temperance hotel ; of this class are West Central, Southampton Row ; Eingsley, Hart-St. ; Thack- eray, Gt. Russell St. ; Endsleigh Palace, Ends- leigh Gardens ; Waverley. Southampton Row ; IvanJwe, Bloomsbury. Each of the principal ry. stations has a large and often good hotel connected with it ; there are the Great Eastern, Liverpool-St ; City Terminus Hotel. Cannon-St. ; Holborn Viaduct: Midland Grand, St. Pancras Station; Gt. Western, Paddington Station; Great

142 ENGLAND. London. — Restaurants.

Oentral, Marylebone Station ; Grosvenor, Vic- toria Station; Charing Cross: Great Northeim. King's Cross ; Euston, Euston Sq. In Albermarle, New Bond, Dover, Arlington-St., James and Clif- ford Sts. are many fashionable hotels. In and around Covent Garden and the Strand are also many excellent houses. At the strand Palace Hotel, in the Strand, no tips to the servants are allowed. At the great houses, single rooms, 4s.- 15s. per day ; attendance, Is. 6d. ; breakfast, 2s. 6d.-3s. 6d. ; tahle d'hote dinner, without wine, 5s. ; luncheon a la carte. In some hotels dinner is Ts. 6d. to 10s. 6d. In hotels of the second or- der bedrooms cost 2s. 6d.-6s. ; attendance, Is.-ls. 6d. ; breakfast, 2s. 6d. ; dinner, 3s.-4s. Beware of ordering dinner a la carte in the coffee-rooms : the bill may become enormous. If you stay more than 3-4 days, the servants who wait on you all expect gratuities. Boarding. — There are several excellent private boarding establishments patronized mainly by Americans. Furnished Lodgings without board are not expensive. Very good double bedrooms may be had for 15s.-21s. per week ; breakfast per person, in the house. Izs. 6d.-15s. per week ; single bedrooms, 8s.-14s. per week.

Restaurants. — Among these we may mention the Trocadero, Piccadilly and Criterion, in Picca- dilly Circus ; Frascati, Oxford-St. ; Verrey, Re- gent-St. ; Holhorn. corner Kingsway and High Holborn; Pagani. Great Portland-St. ; Kcttner's, Soho ; i)/eM(Zo/?ne. Ryder-St. ; F/ore/<cr. Rupert-St. ; Siinpsoji's, Romano's, Gatti's, Tivoli Grand, Col- onnade, Adelphi, in the Strand; Old Blue Post Tavern, Cook-St., W. ; Prince's, Piccadilly. In the City are the Auction Mart, Tokenhouse

ENGLAND. LtONDon.— Underground Ry. 143

Yard ; London Tavern, Fenchurch-St. ; Pimm's, Poultry-St; Old Cheshire Cheese, Wine Office Court ; Stoeetmgs, Cheapside, Birch's, Cornhill ; Ship and Turtle, Leadenhall-St. ; The Rainliotv, Fleet-St. Many of the large hotels have good, but expensive restaurants and admit outsiders to their talkie dlwte dinners.

A Round-Trip Omnibus Route.— From Trafal- gar Sq. take a Blaekwall (blue) omnibus via Charing Cross, the Strand, Fleet-St., Ludgate Hill, Cheapside, the Bank, Cornhill, Aldgate, Whitechapel, Commercial Rd., to Burdett Rd. Get down here and take tramway (yellow horse- car) through Victoria Park. Walk up the Victoria Park Rd., and at the end of the road take the tram to City Rd., past Hackney and Old St. Rd. City Rd. crosses Old-St. Rd. Take tram (blue) to Archway Tavern by City Rd., Liverpool Rd. and Holloway Rd. From Holloway Rd., a car may be taken via Caledonian Rd. to King's Cross, and from King's Cross take (green) omni- bus to The Castle, Camden Town. Walk to the Britannia, Camden Town and take a (claret) Camden Town omnibus to Bishop's Rd. through Park-St, St. John's Wood Rd., past Lords Cricket Ground, Grove Rd., Church-St., Padding- ton Green. From where this omnibus stops an- other (yellow) may be taken via Edgware Rd., Oxford St., Holborn, the Viaduct, Cheapside, King William St. and London Bridge. From London Bridge take a (green) omnibus to the Elephant and Castle. From this point take a tram to Westminster, and then (yellow) omni- bus to Trafalgar Square.

The Underground Railways are convenient. The Metropolitan and Metropolitan District Rys.

144 ENGLAND. London.

run in a circle from Netting Hill Gate to Aid- gate and have numerous feeders to the suburbs. The City and South London Electric Ry., the Waterloo and City Ry. and the Bakerloo (Baker St., Waterloo) pass in tunnels beneath the Thames, the former to Clapham Common, the two latter to Waterloo Station. The Great Northern, PiccadiUy and Brompton Ry. runs from Finsbury Park to Hammersmith. The Charing Cross, Euston and Hampstead Ry. runs from Charing Cross to Golden's Grove. The Great Northern and City Ry. runs from Fins- burj^ Park to Moorgate Street. The Central Lon- don Ry., called popularly the "Twopenny Tube," runs in nearly a straight line from the Bank of England to Shepherd's Bush. Tramways in out- lying districts are numerous, fares 2d. to 3d. Omnibuses, horse and motor, run in all direc- tions, fares from M. to 7d., according to dis- tance.

Cal)- fares. — Within a 4-M. radius, of which Charing Cross is centre, fares are regulated thus : for any distance under 2 M., Is. ; for every addi- tional M. or fraction, 6d. Within central part of London the ordinary course is rarely more than Is. Taximeter cabs charge 8d. for 1st M. or 10 min., 2d. for each succeeding { M. or 2^ min. Outside 4-M. circle, Is. per M. When en- gaged by hour, 4-wheel cabs, locally called grow- lers, inside the radius, for 1 hr. or less, 2s. ; for every additional 15 min., 6d. Baggage, 2d. per pk. ; hansoms, per h., 2s. 6d. ; every addi- tional 15 min., 8d. Some of the cabs are fitted with taximeters ; others which carry little flags charge only 6d. a mile.

Theatres, etc. — The following are the prin- |

'lington House as Centre.

Tlie " City " of London {The Ci

s are indicated by the dotted lines).

ENGLAND. London. 145

cipal theatres: Aldwych, Strand ; Apollo, Shaftes- bury Ave. ; Adelphi, Strand ; Comedy, Panton St., Haymarket ; Court, Sloane Sq. ; Covent Gar- den (opera); Criterion, Piccadilly Circus; Daly's, Leicester Sq. ; Drury Lane, Catherine St. ; Duke of York's, St. Martin's Lane; Garrick, Charing Cross Rd. ; Gaiety, Strand ; Hippodrome ; Haymarket; Little Theatre; Lyric, Shaftesbury Ave. ; Londoti Opera House; His Majesty's, Hay- market ; Lyceum; 'New Royalty, Dean St.. Shaftesbury Ave. ; Neto Theatre, St. Martin's Lane; The Playhouse; Prince of Wales', Coven- try St. ; Savoy, Strand ; Scala Theatre, Charlotte • 7S 8haftesl)ury, Shaftesbury Ave. ; St. James's, King St. ; Terry's, Strand ; Vaude- ville, Strand ; Waldorf, Aldwych ; Wyndhami's, Charing Cross Rd. The E. End theatres, of which there are several, are worth a visit to get an idea of how the lower classes take their amusement. Music-halls abound. The best are: The Oxford, in Oxford St.; the Al- hamhi'a and the Empire, Leicester Sq. ; the Met- ropolitan, Edgeware Rd. ; the Palace, Shaftes- bury Ave.; the Tivoli, Strand; and the Pavilion, in Piccadilly Circus. The Aquarium, at West- minster, gives varied entertainments. Visitors in winter will find the best pantomimes at Drury Lane and Covent Garden. In South London is the Surrey Theatre, in Blackfriars Road, which was at first a circus and later, after being re- built, the home of the legitimate Drama. Prom- enade concerts are held in Aug. and Sept., at Covent Garden ; good concerts are plenty during the season at St. James's Hall, Queen's Hall. the Royal Albert Hall. The latter has a cele- brated organ of 10,000 pipes and 130 stops.

146 ENGLAND. London. — Museums.

Museums.— The Britisli Museum, Great Rus- sell St. ; see p. 147. Bethnal Green Museum, Cambridge Rd. ; paintings, food products, Brit- ish butterflies, etc. ; Wed. 6d., other days free. Geological, Jermyn St. ; 10 till dusk ; free on introduction by a member. Natural History, South Kensington ; 10 till dusk ; free. South Kensington, see p. 149. Sir John Soane's, 13 Lincoln's Inn Fields ; antiquities ; 10 till dusk, free on application. United Service, Whitehall Yard; war relics, model of Battle of Waterloo, etc.; admission (except Wed.) 6d. Indian, S. Kensington ; free. Architecture, Tufton St. ; free. Antiquarian, Burlington House ; free on applica- tion to secretary. Guildhall, King St. ; London antiquities; free. Botanical. Regent's Park; free on order from one of the Fellows. Linncean, Burlington House; free on Member's order. Royal College of Surgeons, Lincoln's Inn Fields: anatomical and pathological specimens. The Wallace Collection of paintings, furniture, cera- mics, armor, etc., is in Hertford House, Man- chester Square. Mme. Tussaud's Waxworks are in the Marylebone Road (daily, 11-6, Is.), j with 200 figures of celebrities. The Tate collec- i tion of paintings, etc., on the Embankment, one of the finest in London.

The City lies between Temple Bar (W.) and Aldgate (E.), the Thames (S.) and Smithfield and Finsbury Circus (N.), and has about 60,000 inhab. and the great offices, warehouses, etc. Westminster lies between the city and Chelsea, Oxford St. and the Thames, and has the chief palaces and modern streets. There are also eight boroughs, and scores of annexed villages, in the "Metropolitan District," which, covers 690

ENGLAND. London.— St. Paul's. 147

square M,, having 6,600 M. of streets, and 550,- 000 buildings.

St. Paul's Cathedral was built by Wren in 1675-1710, on a site before occupied by a temple of Diana, a Roman British ch., and King Ethel- bert's ch., built in 610 and destroyed in 1666. Here King John yielded to the Pope (in 1213) ; Wyckliffe was cited for heresy (1337) ; and Tyn- dale's New Testament was burned (1537). St. Paul's is a Latin Cross, with nave 500x118 ft. ; transepts, 250 ft. long ; inner dome, 225 ft. high; and height to top of cross, 404 ft. St. Peter's and Milan and Seville Cathedrals are larger. It is open from 10 a. m. to dark. Ser- vices at 8 and 10 a. m., and 4 and 8 p. m. Fee at Crypt, 6d. ; Whispering and Stone Galleries, 6d. ; Library, 6d. ; Ball, Is. 6d. The W. front is flanked by high campaniles. The interior is vast, but bare. See organ and wood carvings in the choir, and monuments of Howard, the philan- thropist ; Donne, the poet-dean ; Dean Milman ; Bishop^ Heber ; Dr. Johnson ; Hallam, the his- torian ; Lord Nelson ; Gen. Pakenham ; Sir John Moore ; Lord Rodney, etc. In the crypt are the porphyry and marble sarcophagi of Wellington, Nelson, and Collingwood ; Wellington's hearse ; and the tombs of the artists Reynolds, West, Lawrence, Turner. Fusel i, and Barry. From the S. aisle, ascend to Lihrarij (10,000 vols.), Whispering Gallery, Stone Gallery, and Ball The St. Paul's Cross which formerly stood in the churchyard and was removed in 1643, has been re-erected in more imposing style. It is a col- umn, 52 feet high, surmounted with a statue, 9 feet high, of St. Paul. Hare speaks of St. Paul's as "sublimely grandiose, with a sooty dignity

148 ENGLAND. London. — Newgate.

all its own" ; and Hawthorne found it "un- speakably grand and noble It

would not be nearly so grand without this drap- ery of black."

Paternoster Row, famous for books, is N. of the Cathedral ; and S. are the Deanery, Chor- isters' School, and HeraUVs College. Down the Row is Warivick Lane, once the haunt of Lord Warwick, the king-maker. The General Post- Office and Telegraph Office are immense build- ings near by. nearly hiding l^t. Vedasfs Ch., one of Wren's masterpieces. The wealthy Christ's Hospital, founded by Edward VI., on the site of a Grey friars' convent, has 1,200 blue-robed pupils; Richardson, Coleridge, Lamb, and Leigh Hunt were educated here. Newgate, a famous prison where Jack Sheppard, Titus Gates, Wm. Penn, and Daniel Defoe were confined, was in the Old Bailey, reached from Ludgate Hill. It has been demolished and the new Central Courts of Justice were erected on its site. N. of Christ's is *S'(. Bartholomew's Hospital, a great quad- rangle founded as a priory in 1102, and con- verted into a hospital by Henry VIII. In the Great Hall are paintings by Hogarth, Lawrence, Reynolds, etc. The grand Norman Ch. dates from 1102, and has rare monuments. The vast adjacent Smithfield Market (3^ acres under roof) occupies the ground once used for the revels, miracle-plays, and tournaments of Bar- tholomew Fair, and later for the martyrdoms under Bloody Mary and Elizabeth. Here, also, W^at Tyler and Sir Wm. Wallace were put to death. Newgate-St. leads to the noble Holborn Viaduct, spanning a deep valley, at one end of which is tit. Sepulchre's Ch. (John Rogers was

ENGI.AND. Cheapside. 149

its rector), containing the tomb of Captain John Smith. Near Smithfleld is the picturesque Char- te7-houst, a rich school and asylum on the site of a Carthusian convent (1371). Among the pupils here were Steele, Addison, Blackstone, Wesley, Grote, Lovelace, Barrow, Eastlake, John Leech, Thirlwall, Thackeray, and Havelock. See the Elizabethan Great Chamber; cloisters, chapel, and pictures in the Master's Lodge; also, in adjacent BunhiTl Fields, tombs of Bunyan, Defoe, and Dr. Watts; and, in St. John's Lane, Clerkenwell, the rare old St. John's Gate, built in 1504. The Guildhall, originally built 1411-31, but almost entirely destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, has the municipal offices, a Gothic Li- brary, a museum (Roman antiques, etc.), a beautiful crypt, and fine portraits. The Great Hall, 153x50 feet, has a noble timber roof, stained windows, and the wooden giants, Gog and Magog. Gresham College (1579) and Gold- smith's Hall are close by.

Cheapside is a busy street, with handsome shops, from which run Bread-St., where Milton was born, and Milk-St., where Sir Thomas More was born and on which stood the Mermaid Inn, beloved by Shakespeare, Ben Jonson, Beaumont and Fletcher, Donne, etc. Boiv Ch., built by Wren, rises over a Norman crypt, and is crowned by a great dragon, on a tower 235 ft. high. Whoever is born within sound of its bells is a "cockney." Mercers' Hall, with its rich pillared court, is on the site of Thomas a Becket's birthplace (1119). The Grocers' and Armorers' Halls (fine hall and rich armor) are farther on. The Mansion House (1739-1753), and famous for the Egjptian Hall, is the palace of the Lord

150 ENGLAND. London. — London Bridge.

Mayor. The costly new Queen Victoria-St. leads thence by Apothecaries' Hall and The Times Office, to Blackfriars Bridge (1/3 M.). Opposite the Mansion House is the low, massive, and broad- based Bank of England, which keeps $75,000,000 to $100,000,000 in coin in its vaults. The splendid Royal Exchange, with its rich carvings, Corin- thian colonnades, and campanile, and the Stock Exchange, are near by. Statues of Wellington and Peabody, near Exchange; also Crosby Hall, built in 1466; and St. Helen's Oh., of the 12th century. In Cornhill, Gray, the poet, was born. St. Michael's Ch. was built by Wren, and St. Catherine Cree by Inigo Jones. Loinbard-St. is the Wall-St. of London ; Mincing Lane, the head- quarters of colonial trade; Mark Lane, the grain market. In St. Olave's Ch. is the tomb of Pepys; and in Trinity Ch. (formerly a minorite nunnery) is the Duke of Suffolk's head. .S'^. Sivithin's Ch. has the famous London stone, a Roman mil- liarium, built into its wall. The venerable St. Saviour's Ch. is over London Bridge, and has a beautiful Lady Chapel and Choir, and tombs of Massinger, Fletcher, Grower, and Shakes- peare's brother. Beyond is the ancient Guy's. Hospital, in whose ch. Astley Cooper is buried. King -William- St. runs from the Bank, by St. Mary Woolnoth's Ch. and the site of Falstafif's Boar's Head Tavern, to London Bridge, 928 ft. long, built in 1825-31. at a cost of $10,000,000. on 5 granite arches. 20,000 carriages and 100,- 000 pedestrians cross it daily. The Romans and the Saxons had bridges here. The Monument, 202 ft. high, built by Wren in 1671-77 to com- memorate the Great Fire of 1666 (which de- stroyed $357,000,000 of property) is close by

ENGLAND. London.— The Towee. 151

Fine view from its top (fee, 3d.). In Thames-St. was Chaucer's home, 1379-85. St. Magnus the Martyr, one of Wren's Chs., lias Miles Cover- dale's tomb. Farther E. is Billingsgate, the fa- mous fish-market. The Custom Mouse is 490 ft. long, on a quay beside the Thames.

The Tower is "historically the most interest- ing spot In England" (open daily, 10-4, 6d. ; Mon. and Sat., free). A stone bridge leads to the Outer Bail ; and the Bell Tower and Traitors' Gate are passed on the way to the Inner Bail, in which rises the famous White Tower, built by William the Conqueror, on the site of a Roman fort. It is 96x116 ft. in area, and 95 ft. high, with turreted walls 12 ft. thick. Here Richard II. abdicated his throne (1399), and James I. of Scotland was immured. The beautiful Nor- man Chapel of St. John is here ; also the Council Chamber and Banqueting Hall. Among the prisoners of the Tower have been King John of France, King David Bruce of Scotland, the Dukes of Orleans and Marlborough, William Wallace, Archbishop Cranmer, Lord Strafford, and William Lord Russell. Outside is a col- lection of ancient cannon ; and the Horse Ar- moury, full of trophies, ancient armor of all na- tions, and 22 equestrian figures in full English, Burgundian, and German armor, of aat^-. from 1272 to 1688, and once worn by princes and nobles. Upstairs are trophies from Quebec, Malta, India, New Zealand, etc. Queen Eliza- beth's Armoiwy contains weapons of the Eliza- bethan age, the block on which Lord Lovat was decapitated, and the axe which struck off the Earl of Essex's uead. Adjacent is the 10x8 cell in which Sir Walter Raleigh was confined, 1603-

152 ENGLAND. London.— The Tower.

IG. The Bloody Toicer was that in which the sons of Edward IV. were murdered : Lord Dud- ley wa,s imprisoned in the Beaucliamp Tower; Princess Elizabeth, in the Bell Tower; Lady Jane Grey, in the Brick Toiccr. The Duke of Clar- ence was put to death in the Boivyei- Tower; and Henry VL in Wakefield Tower. In the Jewel House are the Croicn Jewels, valued at $15,000,- 000 ; St. Edward's crown ; Victoria's crown, with 2,783 diamonds, and a wonderful sapphire and ruby ( it cost $560,000 ) ; several other crowns ; the royal sceptre, and other sceptres and orbs ; the Koh-i-Noor diamond ; etc. In the cemetery attached to the ancient chapel of St. Peter ad Vincula are the remains of Anne Boleyn, Sir Thomas More, two Earls of Essex, Lord Somer- set, Lady Jane Grey, the Dukes of Northumber- land and Monmouth, and other noble victims. On Tower Hill stands Trinity House, whose brethren care for the British lighthouses and buoys, and the Royal Mint. William Penh was born on Tower Hill ; and the poet Otway died there. St. Katlieriiie's and London Docks are E. of the Tower, with vast crowded warehouses, London Docks cover 120 acres, and cost $20,000,- 000. Farther down are other vast docks, the largest in the world. N. W. of the Tower are Bethnal Green Museum and Victoria Park. In the Swedish Ch. at ShadweU, Swedenborg is buried.

Blackfriars Bridge, 1,272 ft. long, on granite piers, is named from a monastery formerly hard by, founded in 1276, and w^here Cardinal Wolsey divorced Katherine of Aragon from Henry VIII. Shakespeare and Ben Jonson formerly lived at Blackfriars. The Victoria Embankment runs

ENGLAND. London.— The Temple. 153

along the N. bank of the Thames, from Black- friars to Westminster Bridge, 1 1/3 M., occupied by a road and walks 100 ft. wide. This work was done, 1864-70, at a cost of $10,000,000. It is adorned with trees and gardens, and statues of Mill, Outram, and Brunei. Here also stands Cleopatra's Needle, the great Egyptian obelisk. See also the ancient Watergate of York House, built by Inigo Jones. On the site of Durham House is the Adelphi Terrace, where King Kamehameha II. and David Garrick died.

Fleet-St. runs from near St. Paul's to the Strand, passing Congregational Memorial Hall, on the site of Fleet Prison, made famous by Dickens; the office of Punch; St. Bride's Ch., built by Wren, near site of Bridewell Prison, with tomb of Richardson the novelist ; Bolt Court, where Dr. Johnson lived (1776-84) and died, and Cobbett labored; Cheshire Cheese Inn, frequented by Johnson, Boswell, and Goldsmith ; Whitefriars, on the site of an ancient Carmelite monastery; Alsatia (down Bouverie-St. ) , the home of rogues, described in Scott's Fortunes of Nigel; the site of Izaak Walton's hosiery-shop, 1624-43 ; the Gothic Ch. of St. Dunstan in the West; Mitre Court, and its famous old inn ; and the Nevj Record Office (open 10-4), a stately Tudor building, containing the Domesday Book. The Temple was founded by the Knights Tem- plar in 1184, and reverted to the Crown on their dissolution, in 1313. In 1346 it was leased to the law schools, which have ever since occupied it. The buildings extend from Fleet-St. to the fa- mous Temple Gardens, where the War of the Roses broke out. The Middle Temple has a splendid Elizabethan Gothic hall (built 1572),

154 ENGLAND. London.— The Strand.

with dark oaken ceiling and princely portraits. Dr. Johnson, Chaucer, Blackstone, Lamb, and Oliver Goldsmith lived in the Middle Temple; and the latter is buried in the yard of the very beautiful Temple Ch. (open 10-12, 1-4 daily), built in 1185-1240, which has quaint old Tem- plars' monuments, rich stained windows, and polished pillars of Purbeck marble. Nearly op- posite, across Fleet-St., are the vast and superb new Law Courts, in Gothic architecture, which have cost over $5,000,000. Farther N. is the fa- mous Lincoln's Inn, the home of lawyers, with a great library, a quaint chapel built by Inigo Jones, and a handsome Tudor dining-hall. Pitt, More, and Brougham long lived here. In Lin- coln's Inn Fields is the Royal College of Sur- geons, with a vast museum ; near by is the Soane Museum, with rare MSS. and early books, antique gems, mediaeval and Renaissance curios- ities, and paintings by Hogarth, Turner, East- lake, Reynolds. Ch'ay's Inn, on the N. side of Holborn, has been a law school since 1371. Bacon was a member here. Beyond the monu- ment on the site of Temple Bar (built in 1670; taken down 1878), Fleet-St. is continued as the Strand, connecting the city and the W. End. St. Clement Danes Ch. stands over the tombs of Harold Harefoot and other Danish warriors. Dr. Johnson used to worship here; Joe Miller and the poet Otway are buried in the ch.-yard. Hard by is Clement's Inn, sacred to lawyers, and often mentioned by Shakespeare. Essex, Arundel, Norfolk, and Surrey-Sts., named from the palaces of the great nobles formerly there- abouts, diverge to the Embankment. In the latter lived Congreve and Sale ; Peter the Great

ENGLAND. London. — Covent Garden. 155

lived in Buckingham- St. Thomas k Becljet was priest of the Ch. of St. Mary le ,8trand, Voltaire lived in Maiden Lane. Somerset House is a vast Government building, on the site of the Lord Protector's Palace, with a splendid front towards the Thames. Here may be seen (10-3 daily) the wills of Holbein, Shakespeare, Van Dyek, Newton, Dr. Johnson, and Napoleon I. Water- loo Bridge was built at a cost of $5,000,000. Exeter Hall stands in this region of theatres, and is a famous centre of religious movements. Tne Chapel Royal, Savoy, a Gothic ch., with an- cient tombs, is in Savoy-St. It was built in 1505, on the site of the Savoy Palace, given by Henry III. to Peter of Savoy ; owned by John of Gaunt ; destroyed by Wat Tyler's mob ; and replaced by Henry VII. with a hospital. In the Palace, Chaucer wrote several poems; ana there King John of France died. To the N. is Covent Gar- den, the chief fruit, flower, and vegetable mar- ket of London (visit beforA 7 a. m., Tues., Thurs., or Sat.), on site of convent gardens granted to the Dukes of Bedford in 1551, and still held by them. Here lived Sir Kenelm Digby, Bishop Berkeley, Lord Crewe, Sir Godfrey Kneller, etc. ; and the poet Marvell and the painter Tur- ner dwelt in Maiden Lane. Inigo Jones built St. PauVs Ch., in whose yard Samuel Butler ("Hudi- bras"), Sir Peter Lely, "Peter Pindar," the dramatist Wycherley, and the famous wood- carver Grinling Gibbons, are buried. The Royal Italian Opera-House is in Covent Garden ; and near it is the Floral Hall. At Charing Cross is a modern copy of a cross erected near its site by Edward L, in 1201. There is an an- cient equestrian statue of Charles I. at Charing

15fi ENGLAND. London. — National Gallery.

Cross. "The full tide of existence is at Charing Cross," said Dr. Johnson. Harry Vane, Barrow, and Johnson lived hereabouts.

The splendid Trafalgar Square contains a col- umn 177 ft. high, with a colossal statue of Nel- son, and colossal lions designed by Landseer; also statues of Gordon, Havelock, George IV., and Sir Charles Napier. On one side stood yortlimnherlmid House, the palace of the Per- cies, bought by the Board of Works for $2,500,- 000, and demolished in 1874. On part of its site stands the Grand Hotel. The Ch. of St. Martin in the Fields has a fine Grecian front : and in its yard lie Roubillac the sculptor, Farquhar the dramatist, and Nell Gwynne. The magnificent National Gallery (open free, Mon., Tues., Wed., and Sat, 10 a. m., till dark; Thurs. and Fri., 6d. ; Sun., in summer) N. of Square, has a classic fagade, 400 ft. long. It contains over 1,- 000 pictures, and is visited by nearly 1,000,000 persons yearly. Each picture has its title and artist inscribed upon it. Fine busts and statues in the Hall. Many of the most famous pictures of the world, familiar by countless engravings, are in this great collection. National Portrait Gal. adjoins the Nat. Gal., open same days.

Whitehall leads S. to Whitehall Palace, where Henry VIII. met Anne Boleyn, and where he died ; where Holbein dwelt ; whence Elizabeth was removed to prison, and Charles I. to execu- tion ; where Milton and Cromwell dwelt, and the latter died ; where Charles II. held court. The site was occupied by the palace of Hubert de Burgh (13th century), a Dominican convent, and the palace of Cardinal Wolsey. The great Palladian Banqueting Hall only remains, de-

ENGLAND. London. — Parliament. 157

signed by Inigo Jones, painted by Rubens, and now used as a royal chapel (service on Sun. at 11 and 3). In a house near by, Sir Robert Peel died. In this vicinity is Scotland Yard, famous in police annals ; once the property of the Scot- tish kings, and later the home of Wren, Milton, Inigo Jones. Also Montague House, the palace of the Duke of Buccleuch. In Whitehall Yard is the United Service Museum, crowded with trophies of the wars of Britain on all seas and shores, relics of Cromwell, Nelson, Wolfe, Drake. I ranklin, Wellington, Napoleon, etc. The Horse- Guards, headquarters of the army, is opposite Whitehall. . See mounted Life-Guards sentries, 10-4 daily. The Treasury comes next S. The new Public Offices, built in 1868-73 by Sir G. G. Scott (cost $2,50,000), a splendid pile of Italian buildings, contain the Home, Foreign, Colonial, and India Offices.

The Houses of Parliament form an immense Tudor Gothic pile, of Yorkshire magnesian lime- stone (already crumbling), covering 8 acres, with 11 courts and 1,100 rooms, erected 1840-59. Strangers admitted between 10 and 3 on a mem- ber's order. ra(;'ade along Thames (940 ft. long) is adorned with statues and shields of all the sovereigns of England. The splendid Victoria Tower is 340 ft. high and 75 ft. square; the Middle Tower is 300 ft. high; and the Clock Tower, 318 ft. high, has a huge clock (dial^ 23 ft. across), and Big Ben. a bell weighing 13 tons. The oldest part is Westminster Hall, built by William Rufus in 1097, and covered with the present wonderful roof of Irish oak by Richard 11. . a splendid hall. 270 ft. long and 92 ft. high, formerly the seat of England's most august tri-

158 ENGLAND. Lojndon. — Paeliament.

bunals. Here Wallace, Strafford, Guy Fawkes, More, Wyatt, Lords Essex, Cobham, and Arundel, the Dukes of Somerset, Buckingham, and Nor- folk, the Scottish nobles who favored the Stuarts, and King Charles I. were condemned to death. Here Warren Hastings was tried, and also the Seven Bishops, Here Edward III. received the cap- tive kings, David of Scotland and John of France. Here Cromwell was installed Lord Protector. Here the coronation-banquets have been held for 800 years. A stairway descends to the crypt or Ch. of St. Mary Undercroft, built by King Stephen, and lately made resplendent as a chapel. St. Stephen's Cloisters, E. of the hall, were built by Henry VIII. Ascending from the hall, enter St. Stephen's Hall, with statues of 12 English statesmen and 12 ancient monarchs; and the Central Hall, a lofty octagon, with statues. The corridors have large frescoes of scenes from Eng- lish history. The House of Commons, 75x45 ft., is panelled with oak, and has 12 stained win- dows. The House of Lords, 97x45 ft. is a superb Gothic room, with 12 stained windows, statues of the Magna-Charta barons, 6 splendid histori- cal frescos, the Lord Chancellor's woolsack and the thrones of the Queen and the Prince of Wales. See the Prince's Chamber, Upper Wait- ing-Hall, Peers' Robing-Room, superb Victoria Gallery, and Queen's Robing-Room (richly fres- t?o:Ml), In Old Palace Yard is a statue of Rich- ard Coeur de Lion. Near by Chaucer and Ben Jonson died. The old Parliament House, erected on the site of the palace of the Anglo-Saxon and Plantagenet kings, and burned in 1834, contained the Star Chamber, and was the birthplace of Edward I., and the scene of the death of Edward

ENGLiAND. London. — Westminster. 159

the Confessor. Here resounded the eloquence of Pitt, Fox, Chatham, Burke, Canning, and Grat- tan. Westminster Bridge, built 1856-62, at a cost of $1,250,000, commands a fine view of Par- liament House. St. Margaret's Ch. replaced a ch. built in 1064 by Edward the Confessor, and has a magnificent old E. window (The Crucifixion) and many quaint tombs, including those of poet- laureate Skelton, Milton's wife, Cromwell's mother, Wm. Caxton, Lady Dudley, Harrington (author of Oceana), Sir Wm. Waller, and Sir Walter Raleigh (who is buried under the altar). Many fine memorials stand in this vicinity ; also Milton's house, lately occupied by Hazlitt, and frequented by Lamb and Haydon ; Jeremy Ben- tham's house ; the quaint old Gray Coat School ; and the pretty houses of Queen Anne's Gate.

Westminster Abbey was founded (on the site of a temple to Apollo) by the Anglo-Saxon King Sebert in 616, for Benedictines; destroyed by Danes; and rebuilt by Edgar (985), Edward the Confessor (1049), Henry III., and Edward I. Henry VIII. drove out the monks, Queen Mary restored them, and Elizabeth scattered them for ever. All the sovereigns of England since Harold have been crowned here. It is 416 feet in length and 102 feet high, with W. towers 225 feet high. It is a splendid Early-English building, immense, harmonious, solemn, richly colored. (Enter near St. Margaret's; open, ex- cept Sunday, 9 a. m. till dark. Services at 8, 10 and 3 daily. Entrance to chapels, 6d. ; Monday and Tuesday free) . It is world-renowned as Eng- land's Temple of Fame, crowded with monuments of kings, heroes and scholars. In the N. Tran- sept are the monuments of Admirals Warren,

IHO ENGLAND. Ix>m>on. — Westminster.

Vernon, , Wager, Lord Chatham, Canning, Castle- reagh. Peel, Mansfield, two Dukes of Newcastle. Warren Hastings, Cobden, Buller, and many famous lords. In the abbey are monuments to Wilberforce, Stamford Raffles. Fowell Buxton, Isaac Newton, Charles Lyell, Fox, Holland, Pitt, Wordsworth, Keble, Congreve, Buckland, Outram, Major Andre, Dr. Watts, John Wesley, General Paoli, Kneiler, Livingstone, Stephenson, etc. The Poets Corner contains inscriptions to Goldsmith, Gay, Handel, Thomson, vSouthey. Shakespeare, Campbell, Sheridan, Camden, Dickens, Grote, Macaulay, Thirlwall, Addison, Thackeray, Casau- bon, Barrow, Garrick, Prior, Gray, Milton, Spen- ser, Butler, Jonson, Drayton, Chaucer, Cowley, Dryden, South. Browning, and Tennyson. See chai:>els of ^t. Benedict, St. Edmond, and f<t. Nicholas.. The Chapel of Henry TIL, built 1502- 20, has nave, aisles, and 5 chapels, with 1,000 statues, exquisite carved-oak choir-stalls on each side (with the swords and banners of the Knights of the Bath), and a magnificent stone roof of fanwork tracery. See tombs of Henry VII., James I., Mary Queen of Scots, Charles II., William and Mary. George of Denmark, Edward VI., Queen Anne, George II.. the Duke of Mont- pensier. Dean Stanley, Queen Elizabeth, Edward v., etc. The Chapel of St. Edivard the Confessor has tombs of Henry V.. Katherine of Valois, Henry III., Queen Eleanor, Richard II., Philippa of Hainault, Edward the Confessor, and Edward I. ; also, the Scottish and English Coronation Chairs, and the sword and shield of Edward III. The Chapels of St. JoKn, St. Erasmus, and the Abbot Islip contain ancient tombs, near which are those of Aymer de Valence and Gen.

ENGLAND. London. — ^Lambeth Palace. 161

Wolfe. The Chapels of Sts. John, Andrew, and Michael have monuments to Humphry Davy, Dr. Young, Mrs. Siddons, etc. The Chapter-House, built 1250, and occupied by the House of Com- mons, 1282-1547, adjoins the Poets' Corner, and is near the Chapel of the Pyx, 8t. Blaise's Chapel, and the stairs to the Triforium. . Near by are the beautiful Cloisters. The world-renowned Jet'usa- lem Chamber was built 137(5-86. Here Henry IV. died; and here the recent revision of the Bible was carried out. Westminster School, founded by Queen Elizabeth (1560), is entered near the column to the W. Wren, Gibbon, Cow- ley, Cowper, Churchill, Jonson, Dryden, Prior, Locke, Southey, Hakluyt, and Warren Hastings were educated here.

The British Wesleyan Central Hall is an im- posing domed edifice in the neighborhood of Westminster Abbey, erected on the site of the former Imperial Theatre and the Westminster Aquarium. The dome rises 200 ft. above the street.

St. Thomas's Hospital is a line of buildings 1/3 M. long (cost $2,500,000), opposite Parlia- ment House. Beyond, and also on the Thames, is Lambeth Palace, for 700 years the London house of the Archbishops of Canterbury, very beautiful arid interesting. Enter by Cardinal Moreton's lofty embattled gateway. The Hall has a fine timber-roof, and library of 30,000 vols. (Mon., Wed., Thurs.. Fri., 10-4). The Guard Chamber has portraits of many archbishops. The Chapel, in which these prelates are conse- crated, dates from 1244-70. In the Lollards' Tower Lollards were imprisoned and tortured. In the inner court is the new Tudor palace of

162 ENGLAND. London.— Pall Mall.

the archbishops. The gardens of Lambeth are beautiful, ^ M. E. is Bethlehen Hospital for the Insane (Bedlam) ; and a little beyond are St. George's Cathedral (Roman Catholic) and Spiu-- geon's TaT^ernacle.

Pall Mall is a splendid st., nearly ^ M. long, running W. from Trafalgar-Square, and lined with club houses, which are also found in St. James St. Among these are the University, United Service, Athenaeum, Travellers', Reform, Carlton, Army and Navy, Guards, and Marl- borough. Pall Mall crosses Waterloo Place, in which are the Crimean, Franklin, Burgoyne, and Colin-Campbell monuments, and the York col- umn (124 ft. high; 6d. for ascent). In Pall Mall is Marlhorough House, built by Wren, for- mer residence of the Prince of Wales; near by St. James's-Sq., with palaces and club-houses. St. James's Palace is a brick building, designed by Holbein and built by Henry VIII., the home of England's kings from 1691 to 1809. Victoria was married in its chapel, and levies were held in its state-chambers. Guard-mounting and fine military music daily, at 11.45. Clarence House was the home of the Duke of Edinburgh. Staf- ford House (Duke of Sutherland) contains hun- dreds of paintings. Bridgewater House (Lord Ellesmere) has art-collections, including several Raphaels. St. James's Park S. of the Palace, was created by Henry VIII. and Charles II., and has a lake in its centre, the Birdcage Walk and Wellinpton Barracks on the S., the Mall on the N., and on the W., near the Turkish cannon and Marshal Soult's mortar, the Foot Guards parade at 10 a. m. daily. At the W. end is Buckingham Palace bought in 1761 by George

ENGLAND. London. — British Museum. 163

III. of the Duke of Buckingham, now the town- residence of the King. It is a quadrangle, with Throne Room, Grand Saloon, and other halls, and a Picture Gallery, containing hundreds of old paintings. In the rear are large gardens. Opposite the palace at the head of the Mall is the Queen Victoria Memorial, unveiled in 1911. The extension of the Mall at the lower end into Trafalgar Square has opened up a beautiful vista from the Square, beneath the Admiralty Arches, through the Mall, to the Victoria Memo- rial and Buckingham Palace.

Regent-St., containing the finest shops in Lon- don, and many hotels and clubs, is 1 M. long, and leads from Pall Mall to Oxford-St.

Piccadilly, a Paris-like street, runs from Hay- market to Hyde Park (1 M.), by Geological Museum (10-5, on member's introduction) ; St. James's Cli., built by Wren ; the houses of the Royal, Geological, Antiquarian, Astronomical, and Chemical Societies; the Royal Academy of Arts (many rare paintings) ; London Univer- sity, with statues ; Devonshire House, famous in art; and other palaces of the nobility. Green Park bounds one side of Piccadilly. In The Al- bany dwelt Byron, Bulwer, Monk Lewis, and Macaulay.

Oxford-St., H M. from Holborn to Hyde Park, passes Bloomsbury, Russell, Cavendish, Hanover and Bedford Sqs., with their displays of statuary, and crosses Regent-St. and New Bond-St, fa- mous for fine shops. The British Museum (open daily, free, from 10 a. m. till dusk) is near New Oxford-St., and contains one of the grandest col- lecfions in the world. Here are the Elgin Marbles, from the Athenian Parthenon ; hun-

164 ENGLAND. London.— Hyde Park.

dreds of Greeks and Roman sculptures, and statu- ary; reliefs from Babylon, Nineveh, and Nim- roud ; 6 rooms full of Egyptian antiquities, MSS., ■ jewels, statues, etc. ; hundreds of Greek, Etrus- ' can, and Roman bronzes ; antiquities of the flint, Celtic, Roman, Saxon, and mediaseval ages in England. The Reading Room (open only to students, apply in writing to librarian) is a circular hall in the centre of the quadrangle, with a dome of glass and iron ; the Library con- tains 1,000,000 books. A little way N. E. is the Foundling Hospital, with pictures by Reynolds. Hogarth, etc. Services in chapel, at 11 and 3 on Sundays.

Regent's Park (472 acres), a bit of open coun- try in a densely populated region, is 1^ M. N. W. of Trafalgar Sq., and contains the famous Zoological Gardens, with numbers of birds and beasts, (open daily, 9 a. m. till dark. Is. ; Mon., 6d. Best time to visit, 3-4). Here are the Bo- tanical Oardens. Primrose Hill lies N. ; and Lord's Cricket Ground is W. 2-3 M. W. is Eensal- Green Cemetery, where are buried Thackeray, Leigh Hunt, Sidney Smith, Allan Cunningham, Buckle, Eastlake, Mulready, Mathews the actor. Leech the cartoonist Gibson the sculptor, Car- dinal Wiseman, and others.

Hyde Park (890 acres) was laid out by Henry VIII. At the N. E. gate is the Marble Arch ; at the S. E., Hijde Park Cor tier, is another portal, opposite which stands a tall arch, which formerly bore a statue of Wellington. Rotten Row runs thence to Kensington Gate (1^ M.), and is a riding-course. The Drive, alongside, is filled with equipages. The Serpentine is an arti- ficial pond, with pleasure-boats. Remarkable

ENGLAND. London. — Victoria Museum. 165

lawns and trees are seen oh all sides. Kensing- ton Gardens adjoin Hyde Park on thf- W., and lead to Jlensington Palace, a grim brick struc- ture, built by William III., and the birth-place of Queen Victoria. William and Mary, Queen Anne and her consort, and George II. died here. Farther W. is Holland House, a Tudor palace built in 1607, and frequented by Cromwell and Fairfax, Wm. Penn, Addison, William and Mary, Moore, Rogers, and Macaulay. S. of the Gar- dens stands the Alhert Memorial, a superb Gothic monument, 175 ft. high, covered with statues, and composed of a Gothic canopy under which is a colossal statue of Prince Albert. Across the road is the vast oval amphitheatre of the Royal Albert Hall, overarched with glass, holding 8,000 people, and provided with an organ of 8,000 pipes. The Natural History Museum faces Crom- well-road; contains geological, mineralogical, botanical and zoological collections — formerly in the British Museum (open 10-5, Sun. 2-5).

The Victoria and Albert Museum, formerly called the South Kensington (free, Mon., Thurs., Sat, IOl-10 ; 6d., Tues., Wed., Fri., 10 a m. till dark ; Sun., 2-5 ; restaurant and lavatories in building) is one of the richest in the world (1/3 hr. from Charing Cross by rly.). It was founded in 1857, and has received many generous be- quests, besides $5,000,000 from the Government. The first court is crowded with architectural rarities, original or in casts. The S. Court is sur- rounded with mosaic portraits of the 33 most famous artists, and Sir F. Leighton's famous frescos, and contains many exquisite objects of art. The N. Court is devoted to Italian Renais- sance sculptures, altars, tabernacles, etc., and

166 ENGLAND. London.— The Thames.

costly tapestries, terra-cotta work, fans, laces, and ancient musical instruments. The Cloisters contain ancient and oriental furniture, Persian tiles, carpets, and metal-work. The National Gallery of British Art is exceedingly interest- ing, and has the famous Cartoons of Raphael, many hundreds of choice paintings by Turner, Reynolds, Landseer, Leslie, Wilkie, etc. ; water- colors in great variety ; and the Forster collec- tion of autographs and MSS. The Prince Con- sort Gallery contains mediaeval works of art in gold, brass, and steel, silver-gilt, enamel, and ivory. The Keramic Gallery has Palissy, Ma- jolica, Spanish, Wedgwood, Dresden, Sevres, and other wares, in great variety. The Patent-Office Museum adjoins this building.

Between Hyde Park and the Thames are Belgravia and Chelsea, the former containing many fine streets, inhabited by rich families, and the latter being noted mainly for its Hos- pital for old soldiers, built by Wren.

Down the Thames. — Many dingy little steam- ers ply on the Thames, touching every 10 min. at Westminster, Charing Cross, Blackfriars, St. Paul's, etc. (fares, l-2d.). Their focal point is London Bridge, whence larger boats depart for Greenwich (3-4d.), Woolwich, and the sea. You pass the Tower, St. Catherine's Docks, London Docks, the Isle of Dogs, the Surrey, Commer- cial, and W. India Docks, Below Greenwich the river is dull. The journey

Up the Thames gives fine view of St. Paul's on the r. ; and farther up, opposite Blackfriars, the Times newspaper offices. Thence to Water- loo Bridge, you have the Embankment on the r. Above this is the Adelphi Terrace; the Obelisk,

ENGLAND. Windsor. 167

on the r. ; and passing the bridges to Charing- Cross Stat, and Whitehall Stairs, you come to Westminster Bridge. On the 1. are St. Thomas's Hospital and Lambeth Palace ; on the r., the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey. Get Dickens's Dictioriary of the Thames (Is.)

Excursions in Southern England.

Windsor (Bridge House; Castle; White Hart), 22 M. from London, may be reached by G. W. or S. W. Railway. The superb state apart- ments are open Tues., Wed., Thurs., Sat., on presentation of tickets (Tues. and Thurs., adults Is., children 6d., Wed. and Sat., free) ; when the King is at home, they are not shown, (Buy Companion through the State Apartments, Id.) The castle stands on the apex of a hill, and may be seen from afar. Here William the Conqueror built a residence. Edward III. was born in Windsor; and Geoffrey Chaucer, the poet, once lived here. The state apartments are at the N. side. Grand entrance of the castle, George IV.'s Gateway, in the S. front, opposite the Long Walk, a fine vista of elms, 3 M. long. Vis- itors' entrance, Henry VIII. 's gateway. From the Round Toicer (open 11-4) 12 counties may be seen. See Waterloo Hall, fine Van Dycks and Rubenses ; Chapel Royal St. George's (open daily except Fri., 12-4, free), one of the finest Gothic edifices in Europe (built in 1474), with choir hung round with the banners, helmets, and insignia of the Knights of the Garter ; Al- bert Chapel, formerly Wolsey's Chapel, built by Henry VII. and reopened in 1875, superb mo- saics, reredos, and cenotaph. Fine view from

168 ENGLAND. Hampton Court.

the Castle Terrace. Pleasant drive (7 M.) to Virginia Water (Wheatsheaf Hotel). There are 1,800 acres in the Great Park. Eton ^jllege is I M. from Windsor. The stone chapel, 175 ft. long, is very handsome. Bronze statue of Henry VI. See the fine library and MSS. There are 1,000 students here. The college was founded in 1440. Stoke Pogis, the scene of Gro'/s Elegy. and the burial-place of the poet, is near Windsor. Fine monument to Gray in Stoke Park.

Hampton Court {Kings Arms; Mitre; G-rey- hoimd). rly. in f hr. (13 M.). or Thames (24 M.) has an old palace covering 8 acres. It was founded by Cardinal Wolsey, then at the height of his ambition, and presented to Henry VIII., who coveted it. Here also was a favorite resi- dence of both Charles I. and Cromwell. It is now the home of pensioners of the Crown. (State- apartments open daily, except Fri., 10-6, March — Oct. ; on Sun., 2-6. ) See the Presence Cham- ber. Galleries of nearly 1,000 paintings, and the great Gothic Hall, hung with tapestries, and covered with a timber roof. Purchase the Stranger's Guide (6d.), which gives full ac- counts.

Kew Royal Botanical Gardens contain the plants and flowers of all countries. (Buy hand- book, 6d.) 3 M. from Kew is

Richmond {Star and Garter, famous for cuisine, wines, and high bills), where Edward I. founded a palace, and Queen Elizabeth died. Fine view from Richmond Hill. The Park (2,- 255 acres) belongs to the Crown and is open to the public. James Thomson and Edmund Kean are buried in the ch. Edward VII., when Prince of Wales, sometimes lived at the White

ENGLAND. Crystal Palace. 169

Lodge., Park stocked with deer. The footpaths on either shore afford exquisite views. At Twickenham see Orleans House, the former resi- dence of Louis Philippe ; ch. in which Pope is buried; and Straiolierry Hill, Horace Walpole's villa.

The Crystal Palace, on high ground at Syden- ham, was erected 185S-4, at a cost of $7,500,000. Do not fail to see it. Return fares, including admission (every day except Sat, when ad- mission is 2s. 6d.), 3s., 2s. 3d., Is. 9d. You can go from London Bridge, Victoria, Kensington, Holborn, or Ludgate Hill stats. The Aquarium, the Aviary, the wonderful Architectural Courts, the Picture Gallery, are worth inspection. Gar- dens very fine; fireworks on summer evenings. Good restaurants attached. (Guide-books, Id., 3d., Is.). The central hall is 1,608 ft. long, crossed by transepts.

The Alexandra Palace and Park are 6 M. N. of London ; | hr. from Kings Cross. Admission, Is. It is rectangular, with corner towers, covers 7^ acres; and the grounds cover 480 acres. See music hall (seating 12,000), with large organ.

Rly. from Alexandra to Highgate (2 M.), in whose picturesque cemetery lie Faraday, S. T. Coleridge, Lord Lindhurst, and George Eliot. It is an easy walk to Hampstead Heath, 240 acres of breezy highland park, once famous for its highwaymen, and now visited for its beautiful views of London. In Hampstead Ch., Sir James Mackintosh, Joanna Baillie, and Constable, the painter, are buried.

Dulwich, 20 min. by rly. from Victoria station (open daily, 10-4), has paintings purchased for King Stanislaus of Poland, but given to God's

170 ENGLAND. St. Albans.

Gift College. Works of Murillo, Teniers, Rem- brandt, Cuyp, Rubens, Van Dyck, Velazquez, and Titian. Portrait of Mrs. Siddons, by Sir Joshua Reynolds.

Greenwich Hospital (6 M. from Charing- Cross), formerly for disabled seamen of the Royal Navy, is on site of palace where Henry VIII. was born, where he married Anne Boleyn, and where Edward VI. died ; now occupied by the Royal Naval College. The Painted Hall is open daily at 10 and on Sundays at 2. The Museum of Naval Architecture and the Chapel are open daily, except on Fri. and Sun., from 10 till dark.

Greenwich Park (174 acres) contains some fine old elms, planted in the time of Charles II. On a little hill stands the Royal Observatory, built in 1G75.

Harrow-on-the-Hill is 11^ M. (^ hr.) from London. Harrow Ch. stands on an isolated hill, whence grand panorama. Harrow is the location of the second leading public school in the king- dom (founded 1571). In the old schoolroom the names of Byron, Robert Peel, Sheridan, Palmer- ston, and others are carved on the panels. See the Chapel and the t<chool Library.

St. Albans, 21 M. out (^-1 hr.), has a noble Norman Abbey Ch., founded by Ofifa II., King of Mercia, in 795 ; rebuilt 1077-88, and made a cathedral in 1877. It is 425 ft. long, and has a massive tower (whence fine view) ; the shrine of St. Alban, the protomartyr of England (a. d. 324) ; and quaint old chantries and stained win- dows. Two battles occurred here in the Wars of the Roses. In >S7. Michael's CJt. Bacon is buried. See Roman ivalls. Gatehouse, and Clock Tower.

ENGLAND. Brighton. 171

Putney (Star and Garter) is quickly reached by steamboat or by rly. Gibbon was born, and Pitt died here. At Chisivick Fox and Canning died, and Hogarth is buried. Opposite Putney is Fulham, with a fine old palace and park of the Bishops of Loudon. Lovely river-scenery in this region. To the S. is WimHedon, with fa- mous rifle-ranges.

Margate (Cliftonville ; Queen's; White Hart), 72 M. from London, is thronged with visitors in summer. Pier 900 ft. long. Principal chs. : St. John's, Trinity, St. Paul's. Ramsgate (Chran- ville; Royal), 4^ M. S., is rather more aristo- cratic. Season from June to Nov. Bathing good. Fine stone piers, commenced in 1750, forming the harbor; also an iron pier (adm. 2d.).

Eastbourne {Burlington; Queen's; Anchor; Albion; Cavendish; Carlton, temperance), 65 M. from London is a favorite watering-place. Grand Parade faces the sea.

Hastings (Queen's, Palace), 76 M. from Lon- don, with St. Leonard' s-on-Sea, the Belgravia of Hastings (Alexandra; Royal Vict07na), is the prettiest watering-place in Sussex. Fine beach, and a pleasant esplanade, with splendid line of houses fronting the sea for 2 M. Castle may be visited. Good view of the old town from the Sea Cliffs or the Pier (900 ft. long). Pa- vilion, first-class baths, aquarium, reading- rooms, here. . Excursions should be made to Battle Abbey, 8 M. ; Bexhill, 5 M. ; Catsfield, 3 M. At Battle (George), battle of Hastings was fought. The grand ruins of Battle Abbey are open Tuesday, 12-4, (6d.).

Brighton. — It is pleasant to go by a 4-horse coach (tri-weekly, in 6 hrs., 15s.) from London

172 ENGLAND. Southampton.

to Brighton; the railway talies 1^ hours. Prin- cipal hotels on sea-front: Grand, Bedford, Norfolk, Curzon, Old Hhip, Millwood Hall. Many boarding-houses. Restaurants: Caf6 Royal, Mutton's, Swe^ings, and at many of the hotels. Brighton is London by the sea. The attraction is the fine sea-front 3 M. long. The Brighton Grand Aquarium is the largest in the world. The West Pier and the Marine Palace Pier (adm. to each 2d.) are popular promenades, and east of the latter is a fine automobile road 80 feet wide. The Royal Pavilion, begun in 1784 by the Prince of Wales, is now owned by the town, and used for public balls, etc. Library and Picture Gallery here. Near are South Downs, 55 M. in length, with a breadth of 4^ M.

Tunbridge Wells {Caluerly; EarVs Court; Grand; Spa), is a ix)pular inland watering-place, with chalybeate springs. Bayham Abbey ruins near by.

A pleasant excursion may be made along the South Coast from Brighton to Portsmouth {George Hotel; Bedford; Sussex), -^fery im- portant naval station. See the Dockyards (open 10-12, 1-3) ; order from Admiralty obligatory for foreigners. Ot£ the Dockyard lies the Vic- tory, the old wooden ship in which Nelson died. Southsea {Queen's; Esplande) is a fashionable watering-place near by. See the Common, the Pier, the Esplanade. From Portsmouth passen- gers may embark for the Isle of Wight. Ports- mouth is 72 miles from London.

Southampton {Polygon; Soiith Western; Dol- phin; Royal), an important steamship station, 78J M. from London. Boats for the Channel Islands, Harwich, the Isle of Wight, America,

ENGLAND. Isle of Wight. 173

and India. In Blue Anchor Lane is King John's Palace, one of the oldest houses in England. Excursion to lovely Netley Abl)ey, 3 M. (free on Wed., 3d. other days). You may next go to Salisbury {014 George; Crown; White Hart), which contains a noble Cathedral, among the very first in England. It was founded in 1220, and was the first great English church in the Pointed Style. Exquisite spire, the highest in England (404 ft.). Cloisters, Chapter-Ho\ise, and l^ave very noteworthy. Sculptures in Chap- ter-House from Old Testament history. Statue of Sydney Herbert in the market-place. See Blackmore Museum.. Excursions to Stonehenge, 9 M. N., vast ruins of a Druidic sanctuary; Wilton House (3 M.), with fine paintings; and Longford Castle.

Winchester {George Hotel; Royal; God-Begot; Oriel, temperance), is one of the great historical cities of England. The Cathedral (1079-1148), 560 ft. long, nave 265 ft., is the principal attrac- tion. Architecture of Nave very curious. See Mural Monuments, Font and Chantry. In the Central Lady Chapel Queen Mary was married to Philip of Spain, in 1554. See Castle, and make excursion to Hospital of St. Cross, a house for paupers, founded by Bishop Henri de Blois in 1136 ; admission 6d.

The Isle of Wight may be reached from Southampton by steamers to Cowes (in f hr.), or to Ryde. Trains run between Ryde and Vent- nor, with branch to Newport, and between Ryde and Cowes. The Isle is 22^ M. long and 14 M. broad. At Cowes {Gloster) is the club house of the Royal Yacht Squadron, located in the Castle. There are several regattas every summer, the

174 ENGLAND. Bath.— Bristol.

most important one in Au^ist. Ventnor and the Under Cliff are recommended to in- valids. In summer secure rooms in ad- vance. Ryde (Royal Pie?-; SoHris ; Marine), has fine pier, school of art, museum. It is 12 M. to Ventnor, through delightful scenery. On the route is Sandown (York; Sandown; Ocean), fashionable resort. Sands and bathing good. Shanklin (Daish's; HoUier's; Royal Spa), is a picturesque village. The Chine, near by, is a romantic ravine. BoncJiiirch, 11 M. from Ryde, is very beautiful ; John Sterling is buried here. Ventnor (Royal; Marine; Esplanade; Crab and Lohster; Rayner's, temperance), is much fre- quented. Near by are N orris Castle and Osborne House, presented by King Edward VII. to the nation for a convalescent home. Neivport is 1 M. from Carisbrooke Castle, a grand historic ruin.

Bath (Grand Pump Room; York; Empire; Pulteney),hafi most sumptuously appointed warm baths in Europe. It is a city of 52,000 inhab., on the Avon, and once famous as the home of Beau Nash, and the scene of Miss Austen's novels. See the stately AMcy Ch. (1499) ; Beck- ford.s Toicer and tomb ; the Guildhall ; and many fine residences and parks. Excursions to Prior Park, Lansdown Hill, Hampton Doicn, and ruins of Hinton Abbey. From Bath it is 11^ M. to Bristol (Royal; Grand; George), the capital of the W. of England, and a very ancient city. It is on the Avon, 7 M. from the sea. Fine docks at the river's mouth. See St. Mary Red- cliff e Ch., very lovely; the Cathedral (1140), with tombs of Bishop Butler and Jane Porter, fine cloisters and chapter-house; College Gate;

ENGLAND. Cardif. 175

the Major's Chapel (1220) ; BriMol Museum; Clifton {Clifton Doivn Hotel) a beautiful sub- urb; the Suspension Chain Bridge (get the views) ; Niglitingale Valley; and Zoological Gar- dens. Excursions to Blaise Castle; and George Muller's Orphan Asylum (2050 children) at Ash- ley Station.

From Bristol you may cross the Bristol Chan- nel to Cardiff {Park; Royal; Angel; General, Temperance), a very important Welsh port. See Bute Docks; the Castle; and Sophia Park.. Ex- cursions to Caei'phUly Castle; Llandaff (with grand old Cathedral) ; Llanicit; and St. Donat's. From Cardiff you can make an excusion through S. Wales, and it will richly repay.

Swansea {Metropole; Royal; Grand, temper- ance) is the center of copper-smelting and a large tin-plate market.

Fishguard Harbour {Fishguard Bay Hotel), is a port of call of the Cunard Steamers to and from New York where connection is made for London trains (262 miles).

Devonshire is one of the most interesting parts of England. Tourists can reach Exeter from London in 4-5 hrs. Or they may go from Bristol to Exeter by Wells {Swan Hotel; Star; Mitre), which is a perfect ecclesiastical city, with a moated Bishop's Palace, an embattled Deanery, and a quaint Vicar's Close. The venerable Cathe- dral is very rich in sculptures, and in every way impressive. Superb Chapter-House. (See local guides.) Glastonbury {George; Croicn; Red Lion) has a ruined Ahhey, one of the earliest centres of Christianity in England. King Arthur was buried here. The George Inn was a hostelry for pilgrims in Edward IV.'s time. This is the

176 ENGLAND. Plymouth.

ancient Isle of Avalon. Get Willmmson's Guide, Is. See St. John's and St. Benedict's Chs. Exeter {Rougemont ; New London; Clarence; Half- Moon) has grand Cathedral, built 1107-1206, with interesting chai>els, Minstrels' Gallery choir, close, and far-viewing tower ; the Castle, Norman ruins ; the Elizabethan Guildhall ; Alhert Museum. Plymouth {Grand; Duke of Cornwall; Royal; Westminster, temperance), is rich in ob- jects of interest. See the Hoe, St. Andi'eiv's Ch.. the New Guildhall, Athericeum, Raglan Barracks, the Devonport Column. The Eddystone. Light- house is 14 M. from Plymouth ; excursion by steamer. Torquay (Imperial; Grand; Victoria and Albert; Torquay Hydropathic) , is a famous watering-place. See the Bay, where the Prince of Orange landed in 1688; Tor Abbey, the Ch., and the Museum. Beautiful drives and walks. Get guides of .Devon Coast and Cornwall. Penzance {Queen Hotel), 328 M. from London, is a quiet seashore town, with mild- but rainy climate. It was the birthplace of Sir Humphry Davy, whose statue is in the market place.

Routes to the Continent.

Quickest Routes. — Via Dover and Calais; 22 M. across Channel. To Paris, 283 miles ; both day and night service. Fares: £2.16.8, £1.19.8. Via Folkestone and Boulogne, day tidal ser- vice; London to Paris, 255 M. Channel passage, 28 M. in 2 hrs. Fares : £2.10.0, £1.14.8. There is a cheap night service to Paris via Boulogne. You will pass, by South Eastern, Chiselhurst, where Napoleon III. died, and where he and his son Louis are buried ; and by Chatham and Dover, you

ENGLAND. Canter&ury. 177

pass Rochester, which has an antique Norman Cathedral, with interesting '.chapels and the ruins of a powerful Norman castle, with beau- tiful environs, including Dickens's old home, Gad's Rill. Just beyond is Chatham, with im- portant dockyards.

Canterbury (County; Fleur-de-Lys ; Fountain; Slatterns, temperance). The ancient Mercery Lane leads to the famous Cathedral, built 1070- 1184, 522 ft. long, with remarkable chapels, monuments, crypts, cloisters, and a very beauti- ful and lofty central tower. See St. Augustine's College for missionaries, in the ruins of the an- cient abbey. Thomas a Becket was killed in the cathedral, and the Black "Prince is buried there. At Folkestone {Pavilion; Wampach's; Grand; M6tropole) the train stops near the steamers. Dover {Lord Warden Hotel; Dover Castle; Bur- lington Connaught, temperance) is worth half a day's stay. The Castle was nearly destroyed by fire in 1897. The Piers and Shakespeare's Cliff {v. King Lear) deserve attention.

Routes Longer and Less Expensive, — Via Newhaveti and Dieppe (day and night boats, tidal service) . Channel passage, 64 M. (5^-7 hrs) . Fares : il.18.7, il.8.0. Via Southampton and Havre: Mon., Wed., and Fri. Boats leave Southampton at 11.45 p. m.. Channel and river passage to Havre, 8^-9 hrs. Fares : il. 13.10, il.4.10. — From London Bridge, across the Channel to Boulogne, — From Dover to Os- tend, for those going to Belgium. London to Ostend. Channel passage, 68 M. (4 hrs.). — From Londmi, via Harivich, to Rotterdam or Anttverp. Leave London at 8 p. m.; Harwich, 10 p. m. ;

178 ENGLAND. Channel Passage.

reach Rotterdam 9 a, m.. Antwerp boat leaves at same time ; reaches Antwerp 10 a. m. Frarn London to Flushing, via Qneensborough for day passage, via Folkestone for night passage.

FRANCE. Boulogne-sur-Mer. 179

NORTHERN FRANCE.

THE Ports of Entry in France at which you may arrive from England are described below.

Calais {Hotel Ter^ninus ; Central; ^auvacie) may be seen in 2-3 hrs. The Citadel (1560) ; the Fortes Royale, du Havre, and de la Mer; the old bastion called Le Courgain, are very curious. The English held Calais from 1347 to 1558, when France regained possession. Mary Tudor said the name Calais would be found written on her heart. The Ch. of Notre Dame, with a picture by Rubens ; the Hotel de Ville, on the Place d' Amies; the old Guet Tower; and the Hotel de Guise (Tudor style), built by Ed- ward III. and his successors, are the principal sights. The Hotel Dessin is mentioned in Sterne's Sentimental Journey.. Good sea-bathing in summer. From Calais you may go, via Lille, to Brussels.

Boulogne-sur-Mer (Hotel des Bains; Brighton et Marine; Meurice; Continental; de Paris; Christol et Bristol ; Louvre) is a picturesque town on the L'iane, where it enters the Channel. Fashionable surfimer resort. Has many English residents. The Quais; the Pier; the old fishers' town; the ancient Porte des Dunes, with a statue dated 1231 ; the clumsy Cathedral of Notre Dame; the Chateau (1230), where Louis Na- poleon was confined in 1840; the Hotel de Ville; and the great Sea-Bathing EstaMishment, merit

180 FRANCE. Havre.— Trouville.

notice. Le Sage, author of GiJ Bias, and God- frey de Bouillon were born here. On a hill is the Colonne de la Grande Arm6e, built 1804-41. Here Napoleon I., assembled an immense army and fleet for invading England.

Dieppe (Royal. Grand Metropole; Regina Pal- ace; des Families) is a summer resort of the fashionable world. See the Casino, on the beach ; the great Castle (1433) ; the ancient Ch. of St. Jacques, patron saint of fishermen ; the piers ; and the Statue of Duqucsne. The bathing is fairly good. A red flag is hoisted when the tide is favorable. Ruined castle of Arcques, 4 M. S. E. Carved ivory is a specialty of Dieppe.

Havre (Hotel Frascati; de Bwdeanx; de Rus- sie; d'Angleterre), once known as Havre deGrace, from a chapel founded by Louis XII. in 1509, is one of the most important seaports in Europe. About 100,000 inhab. Immense American trade. The Docks are remarkable. The Jet(^c du Nord commands a fine view. From the hill of Sir. Adresse the outlook is charming. The principal things to see are: The Ch. of Notre Dame (1575) ; tne Hotel dc Ville; the Palais de Jus- tice: the Grand TMatre; the Customs Barracks; and the Museum (open in summer Sun., Mon., Tues., and Thurs., from 10 to 5). Bronze statues > (by David) of Bernardin de St. Pierre and Casi- mir de la Yigne, natives of Havre. The Jardin ' Puhlique is pretty. Rue de Paris is the finest ' street. Opposite Havre, in a pretty bend of the 1 coast (1 hr. by steamer), is Trouville-sur-Mer , (Hotel des Roches Noires, with bathing; de I Paris; d'Anglcterre; du Bras d'Or), with fine | Casino (admission 2 fr.) and beautiful beach. ( Great number of villas here and at Deauville. J

FRANCE. Rouen. 181

Aristocratic resort in Aug. and Sept. Near Trou- ville is a chapel in which William the Conqueror offered prayer before he set out to conquer Eng- land. One hour by rail from Trouville is Hon- fleur, Etretat, much frequented by painters, and Fecamp, a great bathing resort, with a fine Casino, may De visited from Havre. You may go from Havre to Rouen by the Seine, a lovely journey, but very slow.

Rouen {Hotel (f Angleterre ; de France; d' Al- bion; de la Poste) can be visited on the way to Paris from Havre or Dieppe ; the commercial rival of Havre, a port of much importance ; his- torically and architecturally one of the most attractive places in France. This ancient capital of Normandy has great cotton factories and wine depots (120,000 innab.). The Cathedral of Notre Dame is a magnificent Gothic edifice, built 1207- 80. The central portal on the W. was erected by Cardinal d'Amboise, the favorite of Louis XII.. about 1510. Profuse decorations in florid style. Tne Butter Tower (Tour de Beurre) was built with money got from the sale of indulgences to eat butter in Lent. This is 230 ft. high, un- finished, like its twin. The central spire was de- stroyed by lightning in 1822, and replaced by an ugly cast-iron structure, 465 ft. high. Spiral staircase to the top. The fagade (16th century) contains many remarkable statues and bits of sculptures. In the venerable Tour St. Romain is a charming 15th-century hall. See the Choir; the 25 chapels ; the beautiful stained windows, especially the rose icindows in the nave and tran- septs ; the chapel S. of the nave, which contains the tomb of Rollo, the first Duke of Normandy (927) ; and the chapel opposite, in which Wil-

182 FRANCE. Rouen.

Ham of the Long S^yord (d. 943) is buried. In the Chapelle du Christ, near the High Altar, is a mutilated limestone figure, 7 ft. high, of Rich- ard Coeur de Lion. The heart of the great king is buried in the Choir. Henry II. of England is buried here. The monument to Due de Br§z$, erected by his wife, Diana of Poitiers, mistress of Henri II. Also one to Cardinal d'Amboise is in this chapel. The cathedral was begun in the reign of Jean sans Terre, and finished in 1477. Interior is 435 ft. long, height of nave 89^ ft. 130 windows.

The beautiful Ch. of St. Ouen is one of the noblest Gothic structures in Europe. It is cru- ciform, and dates from 1318. The portal, be- tween two pyramidal towers, is extremely grace- ful. Central Tower, "the Crown of Normandy," 285 ft. high. Interior, 443 ft. long by 83 ft. wide. 3 exquisite rose windows ; 145 stained- glass windows. This ch. suffered much from the Iconoclasts (in 1562), as also did the bas- reliefs over the entrance of the great cathedral. The Ch. of St. Macloii (15th-16th centuries) has a very fine stone spire, and a fountain by Jean Goujon. Other chs. : St. Patricia (1535), magnificent stained glass of the 16th century, and paintings by Mignard and Poussin ; St. God- ard, fine mural paintings ; St. Gervais, with a crypt of the 4th century. St. Vincent and St. Roniain also merit a visit. The Archiepiscopal Palace (1461) and the Hdtcl de Ville, which is a remnant of the old Abbey of St. Ouen, should be visited (library, 120,000 vols.). In front of the Hotel de Ville is an equestrian statue of Na- poleon, I. Interesting statues of Corneille, Jeanne d'Arc, and G^rricault. Palace of Justice

FRANCE. Rouen. 183

{concierge shows it, If.) is a veritable Gothic clief-d'ceuwe. The room in which the assizes is held has a carved oaken roof, and it was there that the Parliament of Normandy held its sessions. On the 1. of the Courtyard is a great Hall, built in 1493 as a merchants' exchange. It is now the place where lawyers meet their clients to consult. The Museum now contains hundreds of pictures by David, Delacroix, Geri- cault, Paul Veronese. Poussin, and other cele- brated artists. Visit the Rue de la G-rosse Hoi' loge, one of the most interesting streets in the city. The old clock-tower, with a gate beneath, dates from 1527.

The most interesting section of Rouen is the Place de la PucelJe, where a fountain marks the place on which Joan of Arc is said to have been burned, in 1431. The 15th-century Hotel du Bourgtheroulde fronts on this square. Curious decorations on the tower, and bas-reliefs, one of which shows the Field of the Cloth of Gold. In the Rue Jeanne d'Arc is a Tower (built 1205), subsequently named after the maid, and sup- posed to have been her prison. The Museum of Antiquities and the Museum of Natural History are in an old convent near the Place Beau- voisine. The town is rich in old houses with timber-fronts.

The Sei'iie here is a large river, navigable for most ships, and bordered by fine quays. The Cours Bmeldlen has a statue of Boieldieu, the composer, a native of Rouen. The Seine is crossed by a bridge, adorned with a Statue of Corneille; and by a cuspension bridge, at whose end is a Monument to the AhM de la Salle.

184 FRANCE. Amiens.

The surrounding country is extremely beauti- ful. Climb the adjacent hills, especially to the Pilgrimage CJi. of Bon-Secours, 2 M. out. De- lightful view over Normandy. The service in the ch, is peculiar. Many pretty excursions by steamer on the Seine. Visit the Chateau of Rob- ert le Dialtle, near La Bouille. On the way to Paris is Mantes — called "beautiful Mantes" — where is the Gothic Ch. of Notre Dame, of the 12th century, richly sculptured. Junction here for Caen and Cherbourg. Farther on is Poissy, the birthplace of St. Louis, a lovely town on the Seine, and a favorite resort of artists (great prison here) ; the Forest of St. Germain, through which the line passes; Columhes; St. Germain, with its palace, may be seen on the r. ; and Asnieres, a Parisian suburb, inhabited by com- mercial people.

Amiens {Hotel de France; de la Paix; du Rhin) is a great manufacturing town (70,000 inhab.), once the capital of Picardy. See Gothic Cathedral, erected 1220-88, and one of the finest in Europe. The spire (422 ft. high) was re- stored in 1529. The W. fagade is one of the most beautiful that can be imagined. The 2 towers are decorated with many statues and medallions. In the Porche du Sauveur is a magnificent statue of Christ, commonly called Le Beau Dieu d' Amiens. Few cathedral interiors excite such lively admiration for prodigious vaults, light- ness of the columns, and astonishing variety of lines. The nave is 147 ft. high, and 126 col- umns support its airy vaulting. See organ gal- lery (1422) ; 110 stalls in the choir, with 3,650 figures; superb rose-ioindow : stained-glass win- dows ; and the great number of monuments and

FRANCE. Arras. 185

chapels. The choir-wall is adorned with reliefs from the history of John the Baptist and the life of St. Firmin. Length of the cathedral, 469 ft. ; of transept, 213 ft. ; width of nave, 144 ft. ; tow- ers, 181 ft. and 210 ft. In the rear is a statue of Peter the Hermit, a native of Amiens, who preached the First Crusade. The Picardy Museum (Sun., Tues., Thurs., 12-5, free) con- tains interesting pictures, sculptures, and an- tiquities. The new Palace of Justice, and the Prefecture, which has a 15th-century bell-tower, should be seen. About midway betw^een Amiens and Boulogne is Abbeville, which contains many odd 15th and 16th century houses; also the Ch. of St. Vulfran, and a statue to the composer Lesueur.

Arras {Hotel cle VUnivers; du Commerce) has a double line of fortifications; a citadel con- structed by Vauban in 1670 ; and a cathedral, which was the old Ch. of the Abbey of St. Vaast. Within it are seen fine pictures attributed to Rubens and Van Dyck ; and the treasury con- tains the robe that Thomas a Becket wore when he was assassinated. The great square of Arras is a fine illustration of the pictorial style which prevailed during the Spanish domination. Museum and PuUic Lihrari/.

The coast line of N. France is dotted with pleasant summer-resorts and picturesque towns, old and new. From Paris to Cherbourg, via Caen, is a journey through the interesting Nor- man towns of Evreux (fine cathedral, 11th cen- tury, restored in the 18th) ; Lisieux (cathedral. 1136-1233, in which Henri II. was married. 1152) ; and Caen ( Hotel d' Angleterrc ; Moderne: de la Place Royalc), r>opulation 45,000. the town

186 FRANCE. Cherbourg.

of which Madame de S6vigne said that it was the source "(?e tons nos plus heaux- esprits." View from the heights very imposing. See aS'^ Etienne and Trinite Chs. ; the Chateau, founded by William the Conqueror ; the Hotel de Ville, decorated with medallions of celebrated Normans ; the Museum (Sun. and Thurs., 11-5, free; other days 50c.) contains a number of good paintings and portraits : the Academy; the Hotel de Valois; and the Place de la Repuhlique. You can reach Caen from Havre by steamer, and go thence to Cherbourg ; and thence up to Paris, if desired. Cherbourg (Hotel des Bains; de France; de V Amir ante et de VEurope), a city of 44,000 inhab., on the i>eninsula of Cotentin, is the first military port in France, and a very im- portant fortress. It is a port of call for many of the Transatlantic steamers. There is little to see beside the docks and fortifications ; and, in the Museum, a portrait of Leonardo da Vinci, painted by himself. Fine casino. Granville, far- ther down on the coast, is the port whence the steamers sail for the Channel Islands. Still farther down is Mt. St. Michel, an imposing granite rock, 2,700 ft. around and nearly 200 ft. high, connected with the coast by a dike. The sea surrounds it at high tide. The rock is sur- mounted by immense fortifications, an abhey, and a ch., with a statue of St. Michael. Pil- grimages have been made here since Louis XL created St. Michael's Order, in 1469. St. Malo, near by, was the birthplace of Chateaubriand, and Jacques Cartier, the pioneer in Canada. Dinan is a pretty little town, with old walls and a 15th-century castle. Great numbers of Eng- lish people winter here. Dinurd, 4 M. from St.

FRANCE. Paris. 187

Malo, has a fine bathing establishment. The line to Brest is close by. Brest (Hotel Conti- nental; Moderne; des Voyageurs), population 86,000. is a military port and fortress. Vast marine hospital, and barracks. Formidable bat- teries. On the way from Brest to Paris see Chartres (Hotel de France; clu Grand Monar- qiie), an ancient city, with celebrated Cathedral, the towers of which can be seen for 25 M. Upon this noble Gothic ch., which was 160 years in building, there are many thousands of statues; there are 50 bas-reliefs in the choir, and mar- vellous stained windows of the 12th and 13th centuries. Henri IV. was consecrated in this ch. in 1594. 2 spires, one 371 ft., the other 340 ft. high. There is a Black Virgin here, much adored. The Crypt is beautiful. Many odd 13th- century houses here. Gen. Marceau was a native of Chartres. The Museum contains a noted pic- ture representing his funeral.

Paris.

Paris, with the exception of the old sections, is a very easy city in which to find one's way about. In summer street-merchants are always at your elbow with very good maps, with which you can explore the capital, even if you know no French. If you arrive at the Gare du Nord (N. Rly. Stat.), and are not encumbered with baggage, walk down the Rue de Lafayette to the Grand Opera and the Boulevard Haussmann; then turn up the Rue Scribe to the main boule- vards, and you will find yourself in the centre of Paris. If you come in from Normandy, you will arrive at the Gare St. Lazare, but a short

Map of

PARIS

Complete Pocket Guide

EUROPE

188 FRAMTE. Paris.

walk from the boulevards. In the stat. your baggage is examined both for general customs and octroi duties. Spirits and cigars are the only things about which the officers are strict. A porter will take your trunk or valises, call a cab, install you in it, give you a little card with the cab's number on it, and for this expects about 50 c. (10 cts.). If you have a party, and sev- eral large, trunks, charter a small private omni- bus (always plenty). One that will hold 6 per- sons costs 6 fr., and no extra charge is made for a reasonable amount of baggage. Driver expects fee.

Cabs (Voitiires) — The cab system of Paris is simple and convenient. From 6 a.m. until 12.30 P.M. a 1-horse open or closed carriage for 2 per- sons costs, according to legally established tariff, l^fr. for single drive; gratuity {pourhoire), rendered obligatory by custom, 25c. ; by hr., 2fr. From 12.30 night until 6 a.m. the tariff is for 2- seated cabs, 2ifr. per drive, 2^fr. per hr. ; 4- seated, 2^fr. per drive. 2|fr. per hr. The whole of a first hr. (when you engage by the hr.) must always be paid; \ hrs. thereafter, 50c. each. Baggage (outside), 25c. per piece. Livery-stable rates per day and per month for carriages are rather high from May to Aug. ; with a little care a good open carriage for two (driver in livery) may be had for 25-30fr. per day ; gratuity to driver.

The taximeter (either cab or motor, called auto-taxi) is now in almost universal use. The charges are: For 12(J0 metres, or 9 min., 75c.; every additional 400 metres, or 3 min.. 10c. ; for passing the fortifications, 50c. ; leaving cab out- side fortifications, Ifr. For night service (after

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FRANCE. Paris. 189

midnight) there is an additional charge of 50c. Tip driver at rate of 50c. per hr., but never less than 25c. for any drive or distance.

Street-Cars (called trannvays) run on most of the great thoroughfares, except the grand boule- vards. They are double-decked; the large ones are very fine. Go to the suburbs upon them rather than by rail or in private carriage. Omnibuses abound. Fares inside, 15c. ; above, outside, 10c. On some streets the tramway cars are moved by steam. On the Seine there are a great many small steamers, called mouches and hirondelles, "flies" and "swallows." The Metropolitan un- derground rly. is convenient ; fares 1st class, 25c. ; 2d class, 15c. The Ceintnre is the name of the railway which runs around Paris, within the walls (23 M.). It is useful for reaching cer- tain points, but it is mostly walled in so that one sees little from the train. Round trip in two hours.

Hotels.— Hotel Ritz, Hotel Bristol, Place Ven- dome, both expensive, aristocratic ; Elys^e Pal- ace; Continental; Castiglione, Rue de Casti- glione; Montana, Rue de I'EcIielle ; Hotel du Louvre, Rue de Rivoli ; Grand Hotel, Boulevard des CapUcines ; Terminus, Gare St. Lazare ; Ven- dome, Place Vendome; Regina. Meurice, Witid- sor, Brighton, Rue de Rivoli ; Grand Hotel St. James, de Lille et d' Albion, de Normandie, Rue St. Honore ; WestminMer, Mirabeau, Splendide, Rue de la Paix; de Londres, Dominici, Liver- pool, Rue Castiglione; Chatham, de VEmpire, de VAmiraute, d' Orient, Rue Daunou (Rue Neuve St. Augustin) ; Normandy, des Deux Mondes, and Binda, in the Avenue de I'Opera ; Du Palais, Cours La Reine ; d'AlJ)e, Avenue de I'Alma ;

190 FRANCE. Paris.

d'lena, Astoria, Place de I'Etoile; de St. Peters- hourg, Rue Caumartin; de VAthenee, Rue Scribe; de Bade, Boulevard des Italiens ; de la Terrasse Jouffroy, Boulevard Montmartre ; de Baintre, Rue du Conservatoire; des Aml>assadeurs, Rue de Lille; de Londres, Rue Bonaparte; dii S^nat, Rue de Tournon, More modest hotels are Hotel d' Oxford et de Cambridge: de la Tamise, Rue d Alger; de la Courmine, Rue du Dauphin; Trois Princes, Rue Neuve des Petits Champs ; d'Antin, Rue d'Antin ; Helder, Rue du Helder ; Byron, Rue LafRtte ; Du Canada, Rue de Choiseul ; De France, Rue de Beaune; Des £'trangcrs, Rue Ra- cine.

Boarding-Houses (or Pensions). — Of these there are many. Prices, 10-15 francs daily. We give the addresses of a few, though changes occur so often that the traveller may occasionally be disappointed in finding that the house to which he directs his steps no longer exists. It will be wiser in any case to write ahead to en- gage rooms. Madame Barbier, 42 Quai des Or- fevres ; Madame Russell, 6 Square de I'Op^ra ; M. and Mme. Pincet, 35 Rue Camboh ; Mrs. De- fone, h2bis Boulevard Haussmann ; Prof. Tonnst, same address; Mme. Starck, 80 Rue Bassano; Hotel Campbell, 61 Avenue de Friedland ; Amer- ican Pension, 7 Avenue du Trocad§ro ; the Misses McDonnell, 90 Rue de la Pompe ; Hotel Dijon, 29 Rue Caumartin. Furnished single rooms can be had in all quarters of Paris, at from 40 to 125 francs per month. Furnished suites of rooms (in French, apartcment signifies a suite) from 250 francs per month upwards. Always inquire

FRANCE. Paris. 191

particularly about extras, even in the best pen- sions, otherwise you may be surprised when the bill is presented.

Restaurants.— Cafe de Londres, Boulevard Madeleine, 25 ; Cafe Anglais, 13 Boulevard des Italiens ; Cafe Riche, 16 same street ; Maison Doree, 20 same street; Vidal, 41 Avenue de rOpera ; Noel Peters, Passage des Princes; Bra- bant, 31 Boulevard Poissonniere ; de la Terrace, 30 Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle ; Bonvalefs, Boulevard du Temple ; Cafe de la Paix, near the Grand Opera ;Maire, 14 Boulevard St. Denis ; Cafe de Paris, 41 Avenue de I'Opera ; Moka, 44 and 46 Avenue Wagram ; Gaillon, Place Gaillon ; Restaurant de France, 9 Boulevard Poissonniere; Restaurant des Amhassadeurs, in the Champs Elysees; Champeaux, 13 Place de la Bourse; Durand, 2 Place de la Madeleine; Magny, 3 Rue Muzet; Foyot, 33 Rue de Tournon; Restaurant de la Porte-Doree, Avenue Daumesnil, 275 ; CampelVs, 370 Rue St.-Honore. These are all a la carte. Some of these places are rather ex- pensive ; the others more moderate. In the Palais Royal and the Passage des Panoramas, and on the Boulevard Montmartre, are several restaur- ants where breakfasts and dinners at fixed prices may be had. At the Diner de Paris, 12 Boule- vard Montmartre, breakfast is 3 fr. ; dinner, 5 fr. Wine is always included in fixed-price din- ners. The Diner Europeen is good : breakfast, 3 fr. ; dinner, 5 fr. In the Palais Royal there are numerous restaurants that give breakfast at 1 fr. 75 c. ; dinner, 2 fr. 25 c. to 2 fr. 50 c. In the Bois : Pavilion d' Armenonville , la Cascade, Madrid. The Duval Restaurants, or Etablisse- ments de Bouillon, are peculiar. There is but a

192 FRANCE. Paris.

limitetl choice of dishes, but everything is well prepared and moderately cheap. Beware of the restaurants Avhere no prices are marked on the bill of fare ; a modest dinner taken there will be found very expensive when the bill is pre- sented. The Parisians breakfast 10.30-1, and dine (J-S.

Cafes. — We cannot mention one-third of the principal caf6s, but will recommend the Cafe Anglais, Tortoni, Grand, Aniericain, Helder, Madrid, Riche, Varietes, Dc Paris, NapoUtain. Ladies with escorts may visit most of the cafes mentioned above, even in the evening.

The Latin Quarter, S. of the Seine, has for centuries been devoted to universities, colleges, and schools of all kinds. Many thousands of students reside there all the time. The Stu- dents' Ball, called the Closerie des Lilas, or Bul- lier, is at the Carrefoiir de VOhservatoire.

There are three principal race meetings in Paris, in April, May, and September. The spec- tacle in the Bois de Boulogne when the Grand Prix (the principal summer race) is run, should not be missed. The principal prize is 100,000 fr.

We would suggest that you start from the Place de la Concorde, walk up the Rue Royale lo the Ch. of the Madeleine (Magdalen), and then follow the line of the grands hoiilcvards to the Place de la Bastille. You may go on an omnibus-top for 3 sous, or in an open carriage for 1 fr. 75c. ; but we say ivalk.

Boulevard des Capucines (this is mid-Paris; here are the Grand Hotel, the Opera, the Grand Caf§, the Jockey Club, and the Rue Scribe) ; Des Italiens (brilliant with theatres and restaur- ants) ; Montynartre (splendid caf 4s and shops) ;

FRANCE. Paris. — Notre-Dame. 193

Poissonni^re ; Bonne-Nouvelle ; St. Denis (see the old city gates, very fine) ; St. Martin; Du Tem- ple; Des Filles du Calvaire; Beaiimarchais, — and you are at the Bastille, i. e. the square where the celebrated prison stood. Whole length of this line of streets, 2f M. Return by the Rue St. Antoine, and the Rue de Rivoli, past the Tuileries, to the Place de la Concorde, whence you started. The exterior boulevards run from near the Arc de Triomphe, at the Terries, around to the quays of Bercy on the Seine, through La Villette and Belleville, the workmen's quarters. Tramways here. The Boulevards du Strasbourg, Sebastopol, Du Palais, and St. Michel form a continuous avenue from the Eastern Rly. stat. across the city to the Observatory. A walk from one end to the other is extremely interest- ing. A visit to one of the "cabarets artistiques," in Montmartre, is well worth while. See de- scription in "Paris-Parisien," an excellent guide to these and other noteworthy sights of Paris.

The Isle de la Cite on which Paris began, should have an early visit. Notre Dame, the cathedral of the Archbishop of Paris, was built in 1168-82, on the site of a 4th-century ch. It is 417 ft. long. 156 wide, and 110 high. Twin tow- ers, 264 ft. The faqade (13th centiu-y), with its rich Gothic sculptures and crowds of statuary over the portals, is very imposing. The carvings over the central entrance represents the Last Judgment. Entrance by 1. portal. In the Revo- lution, in 1793, the ch. was converted into a "Temple of Reason." During the Commune it was a military depot. Most of the sculptures were broken at the time of the Revolution. Choir completed, 12th century ; W. portion, in

1^ FRANCE. Paris. — Palais de Justice.

13th. The interior, with its nave and double aisles, is majestic. Many famous prelates are buried in the choir-chapels. 75 pillars support the vaulting. Splendid rose-windows in the transept; 37 chapels. Fine pulpit, by Viollet-le- Duc, in the nave. The Treasury (fee, ^ fr.) may be inspected. The robe in which Arch- bishop Darboy was shot by the Communists is shown. To ascend the towers (fee, 20c.), go round to N. side of 1. front tower, and ring the bell. In the S. tower is the huge Bourdon bell. Note gargoyles and the curiously carved figures of men and animals on the roof. The effect of the flying buttresses below is very striking. See Victor Hugo's Notre Dmne de Paris, for an elo- quent description of the cathedral. The view from the towers is the best in Paris. In a bright summer-day it is bewildering, from its very vastness. Just behind Notre Dame is the Morgue, or Dead House, where you may view unclaimed bodies. It is open to the public. From the cathedral's top observe the new Hotel Dieu, an immense hospital ; the Fontame Notre Dame, the Place du Parvis, and the Flower Mar- ket. The old Hotel Dieu (660) has been de- molished.

While you are in the, Cite, go to see the Palais de Justice (magnificent new additions) ; and the prison of the Conciergerie, where Marie An- toinette and so many other victims of the Revo- lution were imprisoned. The Palais de Justice is open daily, except Sundays ; and here most of the Courts of Justice may be visited (guide, 1-2 fr.). The C our d'Honneur is very Qne. The great Salle des Pas-Perdus, 2,55 ft. long, is where mystery-plays were performed. See Hugo's

FRANCE. Paris. — The Churches. 195

l^^otre Dame. The Sainte Chapelle (open daily 12-4, except Mon. and Fri.) is a nobly beautiful specimen of Gothic (1245-48). Note the mag- nificent stained glass filling the sides of the Upper Chapel. The Mass of the Holy Ghost is celebrated here once a year. Opposite the Palais de Justice is the Trihunal de Commerce, a beau- tiful Renaissance building, 1860-66 (open daily). Observe the old Clock Tower of the Palais de Justice, one of the few remnants of the original edifice. See the Place Dauphine, and the eques- trian Statue of Henri IV. near by. Good view of the Louvre from the Pont Neiif.

Churches of Interest. — The Pantheon (1764- 90), on high ground, on the spot where Gene- vieve, the patron saint of Paris, was buried in 512. The Constituent Assembly made a Pan- theon out of it; and the Catholics never perma- nently regained their place of worship. In- scription on pediment : Aux grands hommes la patrie reconnaissante. Noble dome (272 ft.) ; ascend it for view. Interior decoration of dome, by Gros, fine. Portico of 22 Corinthian col- umns, 81 ft. high. Small fee for admission to crypts, where are the tombs of Voltaire, Rous- seau, Lannes, Bougainville, and other noted men. St. Etienne du Mont (1517) near the Pantheon, has some matchless stained glass of the 16th cen- tury. The Polytechnic School is in the rear. St. Germain I'Auxerrois is opposite the Louvre front. From its belfry the signal for the massacre of St. Bartholomew was sounded. Note the oval arches of the porch (1435) Fagade 15th and 16th centuries. Rich modern frescos and inter- esting chapels inside. St. Germain des Pr^s is on Rue Bonaparte; built 1001-1163, as the ch.

196 FRANCE. Paris.— The Churches.

of a powerful abbey. Inside are admirable and extensive frescos by the celebrated Flandrin ; ancient monuments in choir and nave. St. Eustache is near the Halles Centrales (1532- 1637) ; Gothic, with Grecian W. front. Interior beautifully decorated. Suffered much damage in Commune, when it was used as a "Club." Remarkable marbles. St. Roch, on Rue St. Honore. Exterior plain, interior rich : famous music. Here Napoleon I. planted his cannon, and blew the French Revolution into space ; indc Carlyle. — ]\6tre Dame de Lorette, Rue de Chateau- dun, is the ch. that Thiers was buried from. The Trinite\ Place of same name; new (1867). very elegant and rich. 8t. Vincent de Paul, Rue de Lafayette. — The brilliant new Russian Ch., near the Pare de Monceaux. Interesting service here. The Val de Grace, Rue St. Jacques, won- derfully decorated with paintings by Mignard. St. Sulpice, S. of the Seine, a vast and richly decorated ch., with towers 230 ft. high, and stat- ues of Sts. Peter and Paul. La Soi'honne, ad- joining the great university, contains the Tomh of Cardinal Richelieu.

The Madeleine, the most beautiful edifice in Paris, is in the style of a Greek temple, 330 ft. long, 130 wide, and 100 high, surrounded by Cor- inthian columns. In the colonade are niches con- taining figures of saints. Couture contributed to the designs. The pediment, 120x25, repre- sents the Last Judgment. The bronze doors are subjects from the Old Testament. On Crrand Al- tar, the Assumption, in white marble ; and paint- ing of Magdalen at the feet of Christ. Flower- market on each side of the ch., Tues. and Fri. Very fine music. Sun. St. Augustin, Boulevard

FRANCE. Parts.— The Palaces. 197

Malsherbes, contains many fine paintings. — The Chapelle Expiatoire, Rue d'Anjou, is to tiae mem- ory of Louis XVI. and bis Queen, and other victims of the Revolution. The new Ste. Clo- tilde, Place Bellechasse, and ^t. Pierre de Mant- martre, are worth seeing. Notre Dame de Bmvnes NouveUes, on the summit of Montmartre, is a new church and one of the largest in Paris. The Palaces.--The best place from which to see the imposing front of the Louvre is the park before St. Germain. The Colonnade was con- structed in 1685, on the E. facade. The central portion of this front is known as the Pavilion Henri Quatre. See statues of Napoleon I.'s gen- erals on the Rohan Pavilion. The interior courtyard is an architectural marvel. See the 86 colossal statues of illustrious Frenchmen in the Square du Louvre. The entrance to the Museums, which are among the richest and most remarkable in Europe, is through a door on the 1.. coming from the Cour du Louvre, under the Sully Pavilion, and through the Pavilion Denon, in the middle of the N. fagade of the building erected by Nai)oleon III. Collections open, free, daily, except Mon., and a few holidays, in. sum- mer, 9-5 ; in winter, 10-4. A few of the sculp- ture rooms and collections of antiquities are not opened until 1 p.m. Guides 2 fr. an hr., but the catalogues will enable most visitors to find their way about. The Venus of Milo, the Fettered Slares of Michael Angelo. and a noble group of the works of Raphael, Titian, and Veronese are the chief treasures. In one gallery there are 21 large pictures by Rubens. The Salon Carr6 contains the most striking works of art. There are 2,000 paintings in the I^ouvre. See the

198 FRANCE. Paris.— The Palaces.

Apollo Gallery (Henri IV.), with plafond by Delacroix. The Marine and Chinese Museums should not be omitted. The Palace of the Tuil- eries, begun in 1564 by Philibert de Lorme for Catherine de Medicis, is now gone, the site be- ing a garden. It was almost entirely destroyed during the Communal insurrection of 1871. The whole front was so utterly ruined that restora- tion was considered out of the question. The Pavilion de Flore and the Gallery on the Seine bank unite the Louvre with the Tuileries. Fine sculptures by Cavelier and Carpeaux. The courtyard is the Place du Carrousel. It takes its name from a carousal, or ball, held there by Louis MV. in 1662. The Triumphal Arch which stands here is an imitation of the Arch of Sev- erus at Rome, and was erected by Napoleon I. to commemorate his victories of 1805-6, It was originally crowned with the horses taken from the portal of St. Mark's Ch. in Venice, but these were sent back to Italy by the Emperor Fran- cis in 1814. Bonaparte, when French Consul, lived there; and Louis XVIII., Charles X., Louis Phillippe, and Napoleon III. made it their home. Read Carlyle's account of the attack on the Tuileries by a mob of 40,000 rioters in 1792. In front is the Tuileries Garden, 2,340 ft. long, which extends to the Place de la Concorde, and in summer is a delightful resort thronged with people. Military music twice a week in sum- mer. The Terrasse des Feuillants, on the N. side, is a pleasant promenade.

The Palais du Luxembourg was built 1615-20, and enlarged in 1804. It was once a royal habitation, a prison during the Revolution, the palace of the Directory and the Consulate, and

FRANCE. Paris.— The Palaces. 199

is now the meeting-place of the Senate of the Republic. Chapel and museum open daily (ex- cept Mon., and certain holidays), 10-4. The Little Luxembourg, supposed to have been built by Marie de Medicis, is near by. The Luxembourg contains the productions of many of the most distinguished French artists, which have been purchased by the State. After remaining here ten or twelve years, if they are meritorious enough, they are sent to the Louvre or sometimes to some important collection in another city. Galleries open daily (Mon. and certain holidays excepted), 9-5 in summer ; Sun. and Fri., 10-4. In the gar- den, where military music is played on Sun., Tues., and Thurs. afternoons, there is a fine fountain, and statues of celebrated French- women.

The Palais Royal is always interesting to strangers. It was built 1625-34 for Cardinal Richelieu. The famous galleries, which now form such a charming promenade, and are filled with attractive shops, were built by Philippe- Egalite. The Theatre of the Comedie Frangaise is adjacent to the palace. It was destroyed by fire on March 8, 1900, but has been rebuilt.

The Palais de TElysee, having fagades on the Faubourg St. Honore and the Champs Elyses, is at present the residence of the President of the Republic. It was built in 1718. and restored under Napoleon I. Fine old garden on the Champs-Elysees side. The Palais Bourbon, in which the Corps L^gislatif held its sessions un- der Napoleon III., was built for the Duchess of Bourbon in 1722. Fine peristyle fronting on the Seine, with 12 Corinthian columns and flight of steps decorated with colossal statues. The Ho-

200 FRANCE. Paris.— The Palaces.

tel de la Presklence is near by. The Palais d'Or- say was partly destroyed iu May, 1871.

The two Palaces of Fine Arts, the Grand Palais and the Petit Palais, occupy the trianglq between the Champs Elysees and the Seine, where for- merly was the Palais de VIndustrie. This was j used for the first international exhibition in Paris in 1855, and since then until its demolition the annual Salon was held there. The salon is now held in the Grand Palais. Here also is the approach to the handsome Pont Alexander III., the memorial stone of which was laid by the Tsar Nicholas II., in 1896. In the Avenue Montaigne is the Palais Pompeien, built for Prince Na- poleon after the one of Diomed at Pompeii. Admission 1-2 fr.

The Palace of the Institute, on the site of the old Hotel de Nesle, was completed in 1662. It is an odd structure, with a Corinthian porch adorned with figures of lions and with fountains. During the Revolution it was a prison. The academy holds its sessions here. The annual meeting of the five departments combined is held in Aug. in the Great Hall. 2 fine libraries. The Mazarin Lihrary (250,000 vols.) is open to the public 10-4 (except Sun.).

The Palais des Beaux-Arts, in the Rue Bona- parte, is the seat of the School of the Fine Arts, founded in 1G48 (open Sun., 12-4.) On the rail- ing which separates the court from the Rue Bonaparte are colossal busts of Puget and Pous- sin. Near the Invalides, in Rue de Grenelle, is the Archbishop's Palace.

The quaint mediaeval Hotel de Cluny

(founded about 1500), Rue du Sommerard. con- tains about 4,000 objects in marble, wood, stone.

FRANCE. Parts. — Parks & Gardens. 201

ivory enamels, terra-cotta, prints, stained glass, pottery, etc, (catalogue at the door). The old Palais des Thermes, which fronts on the Boule- vard St. Michel, was built by Constantius Chlorus and by Julian the Apostate, who has left on record his predilection for spending part of his time in his "dear Lutetia" (open daily, 11-4.30). The Musee Municipal, at the Hotel Carnavaiet, Rue Sevigne, can be visited with an order. A library of 45,000 vols., composed of works relative to the histoiy of the city of Paris, is here. The interesting Artillery Museum is at the Hotel des Invalides (open Tues., Thurs., and Sun., 1-4). The Mint Museum, on the Quai Conti, may be visited Tues. and Thurs. (1-3), by order.

Parks and Gardens. — The Bois de Boulogne is the chief park of the French capital, and com- prises a tract of about 2,250 acres, of which 70 are artificial lakes, just opposite the fortifi- cations, and extending along the banks of the Seine. The Bois is connected with the Champs Elysees by several magnificent avenues ; and the principal one, the Avenue du Bois de Boulogne, is 4,200 ft. long and 315 ft. wide. The drive Around the Lake is the rendezvous of the fashion of the capital, in winter from 3 to 5 o'clock, and of strangers from all parts of the world in summer from 5-8 o'clock. The Cascade; the Field of Longcliamps, on which races and re- views are held; the Jardin d' Acclimation (zoo- logical gardens) ; Model Dairy, Prg Catalan; the AUee des Acacias, through the centre of this park ; the pretty suburbs of Passy and Auteuil ; and the towns of Boulogne, Suresnes, and St. Cloud, are the principal objects of interest.

202 FRANCE. Paris.— Pl. de la Concorde.

E. of Paris is the Bois de Vincenlies, a vast woody tract, which furnishes a delightful breathing-place for the Parisians. The Chateau (open Sun. and Thurs., 12-4, by order from Com- mandant at the Hotel des Invalides), was built in 1164, and is a strong fortress, containing bar- racks and arsenal and a military school. There is a monument to the Due d'Enghien; and from the Donjon, a square tower 190 feet high, a fine view may be enjoyed. The Chapel was founded in 1379.

The Buttes Chaumont is a picturesque park of 55 acres, in the Belleville quarter. In the centre is an island bearing a reproduction of the Temple of the Sibyl at Tivoli. Great battle near here on the 30th of May, 1814. The Pare de Monceaux may be entered from the Rue de Courcelles. It covers 18 acres, and is sur- rounded by magnificent residences of wealthy Parisians. Great numbers of Communists were executed here at the close of the insurrection.

TheChamps-Elysees is a world-famous prome- nade. The illumination on the 14th of July (national fete) is a superb spectacle. Most of the Cafe-Concerts of importance have summer theatres here.

The Jardin des Plantes, easily reached by omnibus, railway, underground, tramway, or river steamboat, is open daily, 10 till dark. The fine Menagerie is open daily in summer, 11-5 ; the Galleries, containing the collections, Sun. and Thurs., 11-4, library daily, except Sun., 10-3. Botanic Garden here, one of the pleas- antest promenades in the city.

The Place de la Concorde, one of the finest squares in the world, is a good starting-point

FRANCE. Pakis.— Place Vendome. 203

for any excursion about Paris. In the centre is the Ohelisk of Luxon, given to Louis Philippe by the Khedive of Egypt. It is 76 ft. high, and weighs 240 tons. On either side is a handsome fountain. Arranged about the Place are 8 stone figures, representing the chief tov^ns of France. On the statue of Strasbourg the visitor may generally observe a mourning wreath. The Germans bivouacked here in 1871. In 1792^99, 3,000 people perished here on the guillotine. Louis XVI. was executed near central gate of the Tuileries garden. The Place de la Bastille has in its centre the July Column, 153 ft. high, with figure of Liberty. See Place du Chateau d'Eau, Place du CJiatelet, Place Loiwois, and Place Dauphme.. On the Place du Pont 8t. Michel there is a fine fountain, with a bronze statue of Michael overcoming the Dragon. On the Place St. Georges stands the house in which Thiers lived during the latter years of his life, in the centre of the Place de V Etoile, at the top of the Champs-Elysees, stands the noble Arc de Triomphe de I'Etoile, begun in 1806 by Na- poleon I., and finished in Louis Philippe's reign, at a cost of $2,000,000. The structure is 160 ft. high, 146 ft. wide, and 72 ft. deep. The vast arch is 67 ft. high and 46 ft. wide. On the side are groups representing the Napoleonic cam- paigns. Names of nearly 150 battles appear on the vault. Spiral staircase of 261 steps to plat- form at top, whence a grand view. From the Triumphal Arch to the Porte Maillot runs the Ave. de la Grande Armee.

In the Place Vendome is a column 140 ft. high, surmounted by a statue of Napoleon I., in costume of a Csesar. The column, pulled down

204 FRANCE. Paris.— La Roxtrse.

by communists in 1871, was made' of cannon taken from the Austrians. Notice curious heads over the houses round the Square. The Place Louvois, near the National Library ; the Place de la Bourse, where stands the Bourse, or Ex- change (from a gallery in which visitors can notice the curious financial crush from 12 to 3) ; the Square MontJiolon, on the Rue Lafayette; the Esplanade, in front of the Invalides ; the Champs de Mars, where several great exhibitions have been held, and where the celebrated Eiffel Tower (984 ft. in height) is located; the Troca- dh'O Gardens, now crowned with a superb palace used for historical collections and for concerts; the Place Clichy, at the head of the street of the same name; and the Place de la Nation, should not be forgotten by the visitor. The Place de ChrH-'e, where the stake and the scaffold were erected so often in the 15th and 16th centuries, is now called the Place de V Hotel de Ville; and di- rectly in the rear of it is the new City Hall, a magnificent structure, erected on the ruins of the one burned to the ground by the Com- munists, May 24, 1871. With the old building, 1533-1628, a library of 100,000 vols, was con- sumed. The new Hotel de Ville is ornamented with hundreds of statues. The Place de la Roquette is a gloomy square in front of the prison to which criminals are transferred when they are sentenced to death. Many notorious executions occurred on this Place. In the Place des Victoires see the clumsy statue of Louis XIV. ; also the statue of Jeanne d'Arc, on the Rue de Rivoli, in the Place des Pyramides ; and that of Marshal Ney at the Observatory.

FRANCE. Paris.— La Porte St. Martin. 205

The Porte St. Martin and the Porte St. Denis, on the Boiilevard St. Denis, ai^e triumphal arches, • erected in 1674 and 1672 respectively, to commemorate the victories of Louis XIV. in Holland and on the Lower Rhine. The allied armies, when they entered Paris in 1814, passed through the Porte St. Martin, just as the Ger- man armies entered under the Arc de Triomphe in 1871. Near these 2 arches there were san- guinary conflicts in the insurrections of 1830. 1848, and 1871. One of the most formidable barricades, and one most fiercely defended by the Communists in 1871, was near the Porte St. Martin. On the Square St. Jacques, which occu- pies a portion of the site of the old Ch. of St. Jacques la . Boucherie, is a beautiful tower (1508-22), 160 ft. high, all that now remains of the old church ; statue of Pascal, by Cavelier, in a crown of the arch. Great number of other statues on the monument. The Square Monge contains a statue of Voltaire. See in the Squo/re du Temple the group of lime-trees under which Louis XVI. used to sit when he was a prisoner. The Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, opening on the Rue St. Martin, has a magnificent indus- trial school. Collections most extensive of their kind in Europe (open 10-4 ;" Sun., Tues., Thurs., free; Mon.,, Fri., Sat., 1 fr.) ; articles are all labelled. See Refectory of the old abbey. The handsome Gothic Hall is now a library, 20,000 vols, (open to students, 10^3, 7.80-10 daily). The Fontaine de VOhseruatoire is ornamented with columns bearing vases, and statues of Morning, Noon. Evening, Night. -See Fontaine Cuvier, in the Jardin des Plantes ; Fontaine Gail- Ion, in the Place of the same name; Fontaine de

206 FRANCE. Paris.— Cemeteries.

Grenelle, one of the finest in the city ; the Fon- taine des Innocents, in Square of same i>ame; Fontame Louis le Grand; Fontaine Molitre, en- trance to Rue Moli§re ; Fontaine Richelieu, in the Rue de Richelieu ; Fontaine Notre Dame; Fon- taine St. Sulpice; and the Fontaine de la Vic- toire.

The Passages, or arcades, of Paris should not escape the stranger's attention. The most no- ticeable are the Passages Jouffroy, des Pano- ra/mas, de VOpera, des Princes, on the grand boulevards; the CJwiseul, Rue des Petis Champs ; Passage Verdean, a continuation of the Jouf- roy ; Passage du Saumon, in the Rue Montmarte ; Passage Vivienne, from Rue Vivienne; Pas- sage die Havre, from the Rue Caumartin to the Rue St, Lazare. Beware of beggars and peo- ple who offer their services in these arcades. The best shopping streets are the Rue de la Paix, Rue de la Chausg§e d'Antin, Avenue de rOpera, Rue Scribe, Boulevard Hausmann, Rue des Capucines, Rue Royale, Rue Auber, Boule- vard St. Germain, and all the grand boulevards. The shops in the Avenue de I'Opi^ra are usually reasonable in their prices, but those of the Rue de Rivoli are not.

Cemeteries. — There are 14 within the walls. The most noticeable is Pere-la-Chaise. Here the Communists made their last stand, and from the hill-top bombarded the neighborhood of the Place de la Concorde. See graves and tombs here of Heloise and Ab§lard ; Alfred de Musset ; the composers Bellini, Gr§try, Boieldieu, Cheru- bini, Rossini and Chopin ; of Bernardin de St. Pierre, Talma the tragedian, Dupuytren, Beau- marchais, Manuel and B^ranger in the same

FRANCE. Paris. — ^Hotel des Invalides. 207

tomb, Benjamin Constant, Racine, Moli§re, La- fontaine, Balzac, Eugene Delacroix, Thiers, Mar- shal Ney; Clement Thomas and Le Comte, the first victims of the Commune ; and in the Jewish Cemetery (closed on Saturday) the tombs of Rachel and the Rothschilds. See Prison of La Roquette, in which the Archbishop and other hostages were executed by the Communists. The Montmartre Cemetery has the graves of Hein- rinch Heine, Cavaignac, Halevy, Theophile Gautier, Gozlan, MUrger, Horace Vernet and Troyon. On the Boulevard Montrouge is the Montpamasse Cemetery. Visit the Picpus Ceme- tery, Rue Picpus, where are tombs of Lafayette and many members of old French nobility, vic- tims of the Revolution. See at end of burial- ground the Cemetery of the Guillotined, where 1,300 persons, executed at the Barri§re du Tr6ne, are buried.

Fortifications. — Paris is surrounded with ram- parts (cost, $28,000,000), with 94 bastions, and 21 M. long. They are 32 ft. high, with parapet 19 ft. wide, moat 48 ft. wide, and a glacis. Since the war of 1870-71 the system of fortifications has been greatly enlarged. The approaches to Paris are now commanded by 16 detached forts, none of them farther than 2 M. from the city. Mont Valerien is the most imposing and pic- turesque. Those near St. Denis and on the 1. bank of the Marne and S'dne are best worth visiting.

The Hotel des Invalides is S. of the Seine, in the S. W. portion of the city, and easily reached from the Place de la Concorde, and from the Champs-Elys§es by the Alexander III. Bridge. It was founded in 1670 by Louis XIV. for the

208 FRANCE. Paris.— Operas & Theatres.

veterans of the army. There are at present about 500 inmates, although the building was intended to accommoodate 5,000. The dome of the Ck. of the Invalides, which can be seen from a long distance, was gilded in the time of Na- poleon I. The fagade of the great edifice is 660 ft. long. In front of the wings are groups in bronze by Desjardins. Over the principal en- trance stands an equestrian figure of Louis XIV. On the Esplande is the "Triumphal Battery," used in firing salutes on great occasions. Most of the guns are trophies. See the Cour rVHon- neur, painted with scenes from various French warlike epochs, the RefectmHes, LiJyrwry, the Salle du Conseil, the Artillery Museum-, and the Ch., in which is the Tomb of Napoleon I., di- rectly beneath the dome (entrance daily, 12-4. free). Above the entrance to the crypt are in- scribed the words from the Emperor's last will : "I desire that my ashes may repose on the banks of the Seine, among that French people I have so well loved." Note the bas-reliefs by Simart ; colossal victories by Pradier ; the sarcophagus, which weighs 67 tons ; the decoration of the tomb ; and the monument of Vauban and Tu- renne. In a chapel on the 1. is the tomb of Jer- ome Bonaparte ; on the r., the sarcophagus of Joseph Bonaparte, once King of Spain. The H6tel des Invalides is shown daily from 12-3. except Sun. (small fee). Walk hence to the Ecole Militaire, founded in 1751 by I^uis XV. A noble building ; admission by special order. A great number of executions of Communists here. Operas and Theatres. — The majority of the Paris theatres are closed in summer, but tour- ists will wish to visit the Grand Opera, or Na-

FRANCE. Paeis. — Theatre Fkancais. 209

tional Academy of Music, and the TMdtre Fran- Qais, which are open the year around. The new Opera House was built 1861-74 ; it covers nearly 5 acres, and seats 2,156 people. The fagade is exceedingly rich in statuary. On the r. notice the celebrated group of La Danse by Carpeaux. The 7 others represent music, lyric and idyllic poetry, declamation, song, drama, and lyric drama. Note the medallions and busts of com- posers. The grand staircase of white marble, with balustrades of red antique marble and hand-rails of Algerian onyx, is the finest in Eu- roi}e (see local guides for description). To gen- tlemen we recommend the Sialics de Parterre, 7 fr. ; to families, if economy be an object, the Traisi&mes, 8 fr. Ladies not admitted to the orchestra stalls, except occasionally on Sat. The AmpMtlieatre is the choice part of the house. At the other end of the Avenue de rOp§ra is the Theatre Francais, the rank of which is well known. Founded^ in 1600, it was under Mo- liere's superintendence until his death. The building was burned in 1910 and many objects of historical interest which it contained were dam- aged or destroyed. It was immediately re- built, however (good seats here, 7-10 fr.). Paris is the home of genteel comedy ; and the theatres where it can be best seen are the Ren- aissance, Rejane, Vaudeville, and Gynmase. For light opera go to the Op6ra Comique (good seats, 8-12 fr.). The Od^on ranks next to the Fra7i- Qais, and there, as at the leading theatre, classical drama is often produced. For opera bouffe go to the Trianon, the Bouffes Parisiens, or the Folies Dramatiqiies. The Varietes has a specialty of broad vaudevilles and comedies. The Palais

210 FRANCE. Paris.— Museums.

Royal and Ath^n^e are the recognized temples of broad comedy and of those light buffooneries played nowhere so well as in Paris. The Chdte- let is mainly devoted to spectacles, fairy pieces, and ballets. The Theatre Sara Bernhardt, for- merly des Nations, is where Bernhardt plays when in Paris. For other theatres, see daily papers or the English papers. There are sev- eral circus buildings and an immense Hippo- drome. Concerts Sunday afternoons in winter, generally at the Theatre du Chdtelet, Th6dtre Sarah Bernhardt and Champs Elysees Circus. The best music halls are the Olym.pia, Casino de Paris, la Scala and Folies-Bergdre; in summer, the Marigny, Jardin de Paris, des Ambassadeurs, and Alcazar d'Et6, all in the Champs Elys§es.

Museums.— The Louvre; paintings, statuary, antiquities ; 10-4 in winter, 9-5 in summer, daily, Mondays excepted. The Luxembourg; paint- ings, statuary, chiefly works of living French artists; 10-4, except Mon. Cluny, Rue de Som- merard; antiquities and curiosities; 10-4 except Monday. Moli^re; collection of busts and por- traits of great value as regards the literary his- tory of France, in various parts of the Theatre Frangais ; authorization to visit the non- public parts of building from the archivist. Carnavalet, Rue de S^vigne; objects relat- ing to history of the French Revolution; 10-4, 1 fr., Sun. and Thurs., free. Archives Ra- tionales, Rue des Francs-Bourgeois ; objects and documents relative to French history ; 10-5 ex- cept Monday, by special ticket. Cabinet des Estampes ct des Medailles, Rue Richelieu ; 10-4 daily. Mus^e des Beaux Arts, Rue Bonaparte ; casts, copies, engravings ; 10-4 daily. Instru-

FRANCE. Paeis. — National Librae Y. 211

mental, Rue de Faubourg Poissonni^re ; musical instruments of all epochs ; 12-4 Mon. and Thurs. De VOpera; autograph MSS. of composers, in- struments, costumes; open 1-4, except Sun. and Mon. De la Monnaie, Quai Conti ; medals, coins, postage stamps ; 1-3 Tues. and Thurs. on au- thorization obtained from the director of the mint. Des Gohelins, ancient and modern tapes- tries; 1-3 Wed. and Sat. Trocadero; on the ground floor, casts of architectural and other sculpture; 11-4 except Monday ;, first floor, ethno- graphical museum ; 12-4 Sunday and Thursday. Guimet, Avenue d'I6na ; collection relative to the history of eastern religions ; 12-4 daily, ex. Mon. Du Garde-MeuMe, Quai d'Orsay ; furniture, tapestries, bronzes, etc. from Louis XIV. to pres- ent time ; interesting ; 10-4 except Monday. Des Arts et Metiers, Rue St.-Martin; collection rela- tive to applied science and industries ; one of the halls has remarkable acoustic properties ; 1-4 ex. Mon. Dupuytren and Orfila, Rue de TEcole de Medicine ; anatomy and pathology ; 10-4 except Sunday ; tickets obtained at the office of the sec- retary of the Faculty de Medecine. D'Artillerie, at the Hotel des Invalides ; arms and armour ; 12-4 Tues., Thurs., and Sun. Caen, 1 Rue de Seine ; paintings offered in competition for the Prix de Rome ; admission on request. Cermiscl, 7 Avenue Velasquez ; Chinese and Japanese art ; open daily, ex. Mon., 10-4, Tues., 12.30-4; Sun. and Thurs., free ; other days 1 fr.

National Library (3,500,000 vols.), in the Rue de Richelieu ; the beautiful St. Genevieve Library (320,000 vols, and 3,500 MSS.), Place du Pan- theon.

212 FRANCE. Paeis. — Haules Centrales.

The Halles Centrales, vast pavilions covering many acres, reached from the Rue Montmartre or Boulevard Sebastopol, should be visited be- tween 6 and 8 a.m., when the marketing is most active. The Bourse de Commerce, in the Rue du Louvre, replaces the old wheat exchange called the Halle au Ble. The Halle aux Vins, or the wine depot of the city, is next the Jardin des Plantes ; 20 million gallons can be stored there. The Abattoirs, or slaughter-houses, cover 67 acres, and 1,000 persons are employed there.

The Hospitals of the Hdtel Dieu, Beaujon, Faubourg St. Honore; La Charity, Rue Jacob; La Pitie, Rue Lacepede; Larihois^i^re, near the N. Rly. Stat. ; St. Louis, Rue Bichat ; Du Midi. Rue des Capucines ; De Lour cine, street of same name; Des Cliniques, Place de I'Ecole de M§de- cine; Des Incurables, at Ivry, — may generally be visited without difficulty; For descriptions of the great Asylum^s, of the Mont de Pi6t^, of the Prisons (historical ones mentioned elsewhere), and of the minor military establishments, see lo- cal guides. The Institut Pasteur, 25 Rue Dutot, founded by the eminent scientist whose name it bears, is the centre for bacteriological research. In addition to the laboratories there is a dis- pensary for the treatment of persons who have been bitten by mad dogs. In a beautiful crypt is the tomb of Pasteur (adm. 1-4 on 1st and 3d Sat. of each month, at other times by special request).

An excursion through the Sewers, from the Bastille to the Place de la Concorde, in boats and wagons, may be made twice a month in summer. The Catacombs, which contain the bones of most of th© victims of the Revolution,

FRANCE. Versailles. 213

and of nearly 6,000,000 of other dead, may be occasionally visited with permission.

Of the 27 bridges over the Seine, the most no- ticeable are the Pont d'Austerlitz, which has 5 stone arches, is 390 feet long, and has the names of the principal officers killed in the celebrated battle inscribed on the ornaments of the bridge. It was built in 1808, and rebuilt in 1858. The Pont Neuf was begun in 1578, and completed in 1624. Upon it stands an equestrian statue of Henry IV. The Pont des Arts was built for pe- destrians only. The Pont du Carrousel has 4 colossal stone statues, those on the left bank rep- resenting Abundance and Industry, and on the right the Seine and the City of Paris. The Pont Royal was built in 1668. Just below is the pier for the steamers which run to St. Cloud and Suresnes, Farther down the Seine are the Pont de Solf^rino, 155 yards long, with the names of the principal French victories in the campaign of 1859 inscribed upon the cornices ; the Pont de la Concorde, opposite the Palais Bourbon ; the Pont des Invalides, which has statues represent- ing victory by land and victory by sea ; the Pont de VAlma, with statues between the arches rep- resenting different types of French soldiers ; the Pont d'lena, built 1806-13, opposite the Champ de Mars, with colossal statues of men and horses ; the Pont Alexander III., built in 1899 ; and the Pont du Jour, a superb viaduct, 570 feet long.

Excursions Near Paris.

Versailles (Hdtel des Reservoirs, where the German princes dwelt during the siege

214 FRANCE. Veesailles.

of Paris; Trianon; Moderne) is reached by half-hourly trains from St. Lazare or Mont- Parnasse stat. (11^-12^ M. ; or by tram- way from the Louvre (10 M.) ; or by carriage, through the Bois de Boulogne, the Park of St. Cloud, and Ville d'Avray. Versailles is a sleepy old town of 60,000 inhab., which has grown up around the palace that Louis XIV. built on an isolated plateau between low, forest-covered hills, at a cost of $200,000,000. The palace overlooks the town. See Hotel de Ville; the Palais de Justice; the Library (60,000 vols.) ; the Salle du J&u de Paume, the cradle of the French Revo- lution; the Statue of Horace Vernet; and the Theatre, restored in 1850 ; the Place Hoche, with the statue of the General ; and the Cathedral of St. Louis. The courtyard contains many statues, among which are those of Bayard, Col- bert, Massena, and Turenne, and an equestrian bronze statue of Louis XIV. In 1661 Louis XIV. formed his great scheme of a palace and park;, and Levan and Mansard erected the buildings, while Le Notre laid out and decorated the gar- dens. The palace has not been inhabited since 1789 ; and in the reign of Louis Philippe it was converted into a museum, devoted, as the in- scription shows, "To all the Glories of France." The Chapel is gorgeously decorated (1696-1710). The Museum is open daily, 1-4 (except Mon.). The entrance is at the 1. in the Marble Courtyard. Notice the Marble Staircase, leading to the first story ; and the Queen's Staircase, to the second. The Museum is vast, and its magnificent halls are crowded with statues and portraits of the generals, admirals, and sovereigns of France, and with hundreds of pictures of her battles in

FRANCE. Versailles. 215

all four continents, painted by Vernet, Scheffer, Delacroix, Regnault, and others, forming an un- rivalled panorama of military glory. 33 grand battle-pictures in GaUrie des Batailles, a hall 396x52 ft. in area. In the Salle du Sacre is the great picture of the "Consecration of Napoleon," by David; also, Gros's famous painting, "The Battle of Aboukir." The Grande Galerie des Glaces is the most notable hall, 240x35 ft. in area, adorned with Le Brun's paintings (1679- 83), and overlooking the gardens. The Bed- room of Louis XIV., the Salle des Gardes, the King's Antechamber, the Council Hall, the Salle de la Guerre; and, on the ground floor, the Halls of the Marshals, of the Kings of France (67 portraits, from Clovis to Napoleon III.), and of the Royal Residences, — are especially worth vis- iting. The Sculpture Galleries are extremely interesting. In the Queen's Chamber the 3 queens Marie Therese, Marie Leczinska, and Marie Antoinette, have lodged. Catalogues, giv- ing descriptions of all the rooms, for sale at palace. Fine view of the Grand Canal and the Basim, of Apollo from the steps in front of the palace. The fountains (Grandes Eaux) play afternoons on the first and third Sundays of the month (except in winter) and at certain other times (generally announced in the Paris papers). The chief curiosities of the gardens are the Orangery (1685) ; the Parterres du Midi and du Nord; the Pi^ce d'Eau des Suisses; the Neptune Fountain; the two fountains near the Orangery ; the Latmia Basin; and the Grande AlUe du Tapis Vert. The Grand Canal is 4,674 ft. long, and about 186 ft. wide. It was here that Louis XIV. gave his Venetian festivals, fa-

216 FRANCE. St. Cloud.— Sevres.

mous in history. The G-rand Trianon, a horse- shoe-shaped villa, built by Louis XIV. for Madame Maintenon, is open daily (12-4). Richly furnished rooms, in which Bazaine was tried. The gardens of the Petit Trianon are also open daily. Notice the curious display of old state- coaches used by the sovereigns of France, in a coach-house near the Grand Trianon.

St. Cloud (Restaurants: Pavilion Bleu; de la Gare; Maurice) is visited by rail from St. Lazare or by steamer, which is preferable in warm weather. From the bridge over the Seine turn to the 1., and walk through the Park to the Great Cascade. Then turn up to the ruined Palace (built in 1572), mainly destroyed by French shells, thrown into the wood to dislodge the Germans. This was a favorite residence of Na- poleon III. Beautiful new ch. in the 12th- century style, with a lofty stone spire. New Hotel de Ville, near by. Magnificent outlook over Paris from the hill above the station. The Palace was inhabited by most of the French sov- ereigns, from 1785. The rly. from Paris to Ver- sailles runs through the beautiful park, which is ornamented with statues, fountains, and lakes. See the Trocad^ro Garden, N. of the palace; the Pavilion de Breteuil; and the great water- jet, to the 1. of the Cascade. The Park of Montretont, near the rly., was the scene of a desi>erate fight, in the sortie made by the French, Jan. 19, 1871, in which they lost 3,000 men. Monument here to the slain.

Sevres is easily reached from St. Cloud. Here is the noted porcelain factory. Exhibition room of the Ceramic Museum open daily, 12-5 ; strangers admitted without cards. The Work-

FRANCE. St. Germain-en-Laye. 217

shops may be inspected Mon., Thurs., and Sat., 1-5 (get cards at 3 Rue de Valois, Paris). Rly. from Paris to Bellevue, 5 min. walk from the factory.

St. Germain-en-Laye. This is one of the most beautiful excursions near Paris. The principal sights are the Pavilion Henri Quatre, in which Louis XIV. was born, and Thiers died ; the mag- nificent TeiTOce on the border of the forest of St. Germain ; and the gloomy old Chateau, where James II. of England lived after the Revolution of 1688. In the GJi. is a Mausoleum, erected by George IV. to the memory of James. The Forest of St. Germain, one of the largest near Paris (9, 000 acres), is full of charming walks, and a day or two may well be spent in this lofty and healthy old town. The Museum of 'National Antiquities is in the chateau (open Sun., Tues., and Thurs., 11-4). The Terrace, constructed by Le Notre in 1672, is 1^ M. long, with superb view. From St. Germain to Versailles is a pleas- ant walk.

Rueil is 8| M. from St. Lazare stat. In its Ch. are monuments to Empress Josephine and Queen Horteyise. Malmaison (tramway from Ruell, 2 M.) was the favorite home of Na- poleon, and there Josephine died in 1814. Not far away is the Chateau of Buzenval, near which the artist, Henri Regnault, was killed in the fight of Jan. 19, 1871. About 21 M. from Rueil is Bougival, a resort of celebrated painters. See the Restaurant, with walls decorated with land- scapes by Corot, Frangais, etc. From thence go to Louvec-iennes, a lovely village, with a 15th- century ch. It is but 7-8 min. walk thence to Voisins. On the hill is Marly-le-Roi, where stood

218 FRANCE. St. Denis.

a beautiful palace built by Louis XIV., and de- stroyed during the Revolution. Victorien Sardou lived here. To the W. is Monte -€Hsto, in which Dumas the Elder lived so long.

St. Denis is 4 M. from Paris. Chapel begun here, a.d. 275, in honor of St. Denis, who had his head cut off on Montmartre, and who is said to have taken it on his arm and walked off across the fields. Dagobert built the ch., which was the nucleus of the one begun by Pepin, finished by Charlemagne in 775, and demolished and a larger one built on its ruins 400 years later. During the Revolution the ch, was pillaged. It was restored by Viollet-le-Duc. Beautiful monu- ments and statues here. Here Charlemagne was anointed ; the Oriflamme was kept ; Ab§lard dwelt ; Joan of Arc hung up her arms ; Henri I. abjured Protestantism ; and Napoeon I. was mar- ried to Marie Louise. The bones of the Kings of France from Dagobert (630) to Louis XV. (1774) were buried here; and the mad Revolu- tionists tore them from their tombs, and buried them in a common ditch. They are now in the crypt, and the superb royal monuments adorn the ch., whose interior is 354 ft. long and 129 ft. wide, lighted by splendid stained windows, and enriched with mosaics and statuary.

Enghien and Montmorency are on the N. Rly. Enghien is noted for sulphur baths; and at Montmorency is the Hermitage which Rousseau inhabited, and where he began La Nouvelle H^loise. Robespierre and Gr^try also lived here. Chantilly was the Versailles of the Princes of Cond§, and was beautified by them from the 13th century until the Revolution. It has two fine chateaux (described by Madame de Sevigng), and

FRANCE. FONTAINEBLEAU. 219

a famous forest of 10 square M. Spring and autumn races here. Compiegne has always been a royal residence. Napoleon I. was fond of it, and Napoleon III. entertained there with great magnificence. The Galerie des Fetes is superb The Library was the favorite work-place of Na- poleon III. The Compiegne Forest is 59 M. around. From Compiegne to Pierrefonds, excur- sion by omnibus through the forest, 9 M. Grand feudal fortress, built in 1400, and restored by Viollet-le-Duc, with 8 huge towers and a donjon, on a rocky height over Pierrefonds. Hotel des Rui/nes, near by. Ermenonville is the beautiful retreat where Rousseau died, in 1778. Cele- brated Park just beyond, at Mortefontaine.

Trains run to Fontainebleau (Aigle-Noir; Sa- voy; de la Chancellerie) from the Gare de Lyons. (Return tickets 9 fr. 90c., 7 fr. 15c. for 1st and 2d class ) . On the road is Charenton, with its celebrated lunatic asylum and fortress ; Alfort, where there is a horse and dog hospital ; Montmesly and Melun, with two handsome old chs. and a Gothic town-hall. From stat., omnibus or tramway (1^ M. ; SOc.-l fr.) to the Chateau (open daily, 10-5 in summer, 11-4 in winter). This stately palace was built by Francis I., on the site of Louis VII. 's castle; and here Conde died, the Edict of Nantes was revoked, Louis XIII. was born, Josephine was divorced. Napoleon signed his abdication, Pius VII. was imprisoned, and Na- poleon III. was baptized. It is crowded with rich frescoes and paintings, Gobelins tapestries. and antique furnishings. See the boudoir of Marie Antoinette, the bedrooms of Anne of Austria and Catherine de M^dicis, and the splendid Salle des Fetes. This was a favorite

220 FRANCE. Orleans.

abode of the Empress Eug§nie and her son. The Forest, dear to artists, and one of the most beautiful in the world, must be seen. It is 56 M. around, with many fine gorges, crags, and heaths, and has 12,400 M. of roads and pathways. On the borders are many charming villages in- habited mainly by artists ; and the lovers of Millet will visit Barbizon.

Sceaux (Etoile du Nord) is a beautiful hill- town, with a delicious Park and the Chateau where Colbert once lived and Voltaire wrote sev- eral of his famous tragedies. Chatillon was the scene of many combats during the siege.

Meudon is reached from the Tuileries by boat every 15 minutes. In the Chateau, built in 1695 and burned by the Germans in 1871, the Em- press Marie Louise and Prince Napoleon lived. This was also the parish of Rabelais. Fine view from Terrace; noble trees. The walk through Meudon to Versailles is charming.

Orleans {Terminus; de la Boule d'Or), founded by the Romans, on the Loire, contains a noble Flamboyant Cathedral, the only Gothic cathedral built in Europe since the Middle Ages. It has a grand interior, with double aisles ; and 2 towers, each 280 ft. high. See the bronze replica of a marble statue of Jeanne d'Arc made by Princess M^rie, the Museum, and the Mairie. Orleans was the capital of the first Kingdom of Burgundy. The forest of Orleans is one of the largest in the country. Blois {Hotel d'Angle- terre; Grand Hotel) has a stately old Chateau, for centuries a residence of kings and queens. Fine old houses in the town. 12 M. (2 hrs.) hence, by omnibus, is the grand, many-towered,

^ FRANCE. TouBS. 221

[and historic Castle of Chambord, built by Fran- icis I. and still in the Bourbon family. It is sur- frounded by a park 20 sq. M. in area. The [Chateau de Chamnont, 1 M. from the station of Onzain, is a high-towered hill-fortress, where Catherine de Medicis lived, Cardinal d'Amboise was born, the Prince de Conde was imprisoned, and Voltaire wrote La Pucelle. Eleven M. beyond is Amboise, with its famous Castle, perched on a lofty crag, and dating from 1470. In the gar- dens is an exquisite Gothic chapel, with marvel- lous stone-carving. Ten M. south is the castle of Chenonceaux, built by Francis I., inhabited by Diane de Poitiers and Louise of Lorraine, and the favorite resort of Voltaire, Rousseau, Boling- broke, etc. Mary Queen of Scots and Tasso also visited it. It is still in perfect order, and ele- gantly furnished. Adm. 10-12, 2-6 daily ; 1 fr. .

Tours {Hotel de I'Vnivers; Metropole) in Tou- raine, on the Loire, has the reputation of being the place where the best French is spoken. See Gothic Cathedral, founded in 1170; Episcopal Palace; many famous schools ; a Museum with 200 paintings ; a fine Public Library ; and two ancient towers (relics of the old Cathedral), be- neath one of which the wife of Charlemagne was buried. Many American and English families re- side here. See Plessis les Tours, the home of Louis XI.

Routes From Paris to Switzerland.

Our itinerary leads to Germany, before enter- ing Switzerland.

From Paris to Geneva, Jjy Dijon and Macon. — In 11 hrs., by express train (distance, 388 J M.). Many stop at Macon over night. Dijon {HCtel du Jura; de la Cloche, Terminus) , 75,000 inhab..

222 FRANCE. Rheims.

is in the wine-growing district. See Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, now a town-hall, with very interesting museum ; the Castle, built by Louis XI. ; the Burgundian-Gothic Ch. of Ndtre Danie (built 1220-30), with a curious clock. Macon (Hdtel de V Europe) is an important rly. junction (good buffet). Fine views of the Jura Mts. from the train. At Amherieu you begin to climb the mts. Junction at Culoz for Aix-les- Bains, Chmjihery, and Turin. Near here some fine viaducts, and the Fort de VEcluse, the key to the Rhone valley. From this point you traverse a picturesque mt. country to Geneva.

From Paris to Simtzerland, via Pontarlier. Same route as previous one to Dijon. From Pmitarlier the route leads up through the mts. to Berne; the scenery is wildly beautiful. A branch leads from Pontarlier to Lausanne.

From Paris to Basle, by Troyes, Chaumont, Vesoul, and Belfort, the fortress which made a heroic resistance in 1870, and thence either through Alsace, touching at Mulhouse, or by Delle to Basle.

From Paris to Basle, via Nancy, Strasbourg, and Mulhouse. The interesting towns on this route are Meaux {Hotel des t7'ois Rois), 25 M. from Paris, in a lovely situation on the Marne. Superb Gothic Cathedral of St. Etienne, with Monuments of Boss net (who was Bishop of Meaux) and Philip of Castille. Chateau Thiei-ry was the birthplace of Lafontaine. From Eper- nay, branch to Rheims {Hotel Lion d'Or; Grand), city of 110,000 inhab. In its cathedral the kings of France have been crowned. See magnificent Gothic Abbey Ch. of St. Remi, founded by Glovis in 6th century ; and Cathe-

FRANCE. Nancy. 223

dral, built 1212-1430, and one of the grandest in Europe. It is 466 ft. long and 124 ft. high; filled with beautiful statues and monuments. Splendid rose-windows and interesting Treas- ury. Charles VII. was crowned here, Joan of Arc standing by his side. The Hotel de Ville contains a fine public library. Rly. to Sedan (Hotel de la Croix d'Or), a town of 20,000 in- habitants, where MacMahon's army of 80,000 men surrendered.

Beyond Epernay on the main line are Chalons- suT-MsLme (Benard) with interesting ch. of Notre Dame, and Bar-le-Duc (Hotel du Cygne), with statues of Marshal Oudinot and Gen. Excel- mans ; monument of the Prince of Orange. Toul, on the Moselle, is a fortress which was besieged in 1870. Nancy (Grand; Am6ricain), the old capital of Lorraine, and the prettiest town in France, with a large Cathedral, an interesting Museum (in the Hotel de Ville), a splendid new Prefecture, and a fine specimen of Flamboyant Gothic in the Palace of the Dukes of Lorraine. N6tre Dame de Bon-Secours contains the Tomb of Stanislas, ex-King of Poland, who lived in Nancy after abdicating his throne in 1735. See triumphal arch ; two fountains ; and Statues of Thiers, Callot, Drouot, and Stanislas. Near the gate of St. Jean is the Cross of the Duke of Bur- gundy, close to which was found the body of Charles the Bold, after the celebrated battle (1477). Beyond Nancy you pass through the Vosges Mts and down to Strasbourg.

BELGIUM. St. Quentin. — Mons. 225

BELGIUM.

WE now invite your attention to the route from Paris to Brussels and other sections ot Belgium, our advice being that it is well to see portions of Belgium, Holland, and Germany before visiting Switzerland and Italy.

The most direct route from Paris to Brussels is from the Gare du Nord, via Tergnier, Mau- ieuge, and 3Ions (time, 6^ hrs. ; fares, 36 fr. 20 c, 27 fr. 20 c, 18 fr. 90 c). You pass through St. Denis ; Chantilly ; Creil ; Compiegne ; St. Quentin, an important manufacturing centre, with a noble ch. as well as a magnificent City Hall of the 14th and 15th centuries ; through the valley of the^ Sambre to Maul)euge and thence to Feignies, the French frontier. Mons (Grand Hotel; Monarque) had a castle built by Julius Csesar. It is the centre of a great coal-mining country. Splendid interior of the Cathedral of Ste. Vaudru (St. Waltrudis) (1450-1589) and Hotel de Ville (1458). Belfry built in 1662 by the Spaniards. At Malplaquet, 3 M. S. E., Marl- borough defeated the French in 1700, and lost 20,000 men. Between Mons and Brussels is Hal (Hotel St. Martin) with the elegant 14th-century church of Notre Dame, still a place for pious pilgrimages. Before reaching Brussels you can see Ste. Gudule's towers.

Another route from Paris to Brussels tra- verses Amiens, Arras, Douai, and Mons' (fares, 39 fr. 25 c, 29 fr. 45 c, 20 fr. 55 c). Douai

226 BELGIUM. Douai.— Lille.

{Hotel de Flandre) is an important place de guerre, and has an interesting museum and town- hall. Valenciennes is also a strong old fortress and a great manufacturing town. Here is a statue of Froissart, the chronicler, born in Valen- ciennes, From thence to Mons you pass through a fertile and populous country, by Jemmapes, where the French won a great victory over the Austrians in 1792.

There is also a direct route from Paris to Ghent by Lille, Roubaix, and Courtrai (9 hrs. ; fares, 37 fr. 70 c, 28 fr. 25 c). Lille {Hotel de VEurope; de la Paix ; Grand), a manufacturing town of 210,000 inhab., is a first-class fortress on the river Deule. St. Catherine's Ch. has an altar-piece by Rubens. In the Palais des Beaux- Arts (daily, ex. Satur., 10-4) are many paint- ings by Dutch and Flemish artists and a pre- cious collection of drawings by the Italian mas- ters. In the Grande Place, a square in the center of the old town Is a column commemora- tive of the defense against the Austrian siege of 1792. On one side of this square is the modern Hotel de Ville. In the Lyc§e Faidherbe is a Natural History Museum. In the court of the Bourse is a statue of Napoleon by Lemaire. Rou- baix {Hotel FerraiUe), 5 M. beyond, is a great woollen and cotton working town of 125,000 in- habitants. Tourcoing {Hotel Terminus) , on the French frontier, is a factory-town of 82,000 in- habitants.

From London one may go via Calais to Brus- sels by Lille and Tournai (fares from Calais, 21 fr. 30 c, 15 fr. 95 c, 11 fr. 40 c). Leaving London at 8.05 p.m. you reach Brussels at 6 a.m. (fares, £2 11 s., £1 18 s.)

BELGIUM. Namue.— Liege. 227

From Paris to Li^ge, via Charleroi, is 226i M. (express in 8 hrs. ; fares, 42 fr. 40 c, 31 fr. 90 c, 21 fr. 35 c). This is also the route from Paris to Cologne (fares from Paris, 59 fr. 35 c, 44 fr. 20 c). Charleroi (Sieberts;; Gro/nd) is a mod- ern town of 28,000 inhabitants, an industrial centre of Belgium. The environs are fine. The line crosses the Sambre 13 times on the way to Namur (Harscamp; St. Auhain; Flandre), a pretty fortified town, of Roman origin, with a vast old citadel, on the Meuse. It has several spacious squares, and a Renaissance Cathedral. Namur has sustained several celebrated sieges, — among others that of 1692, commanded by Louis XIV. in person. Archceological Museum (daily, 10-1, ^ fr., Sun. free) worth visiting. From Namur you may go to Luxeinbourg.

Liege (Hdtel Arnold Moliren; Grand; de SuMe; Dounen), the Flemish LuicTc and German Luttich, has 175,000 inhab., and is picturesquely situated on the Meuse. See Quentin Durward for a recital of the striking events in its history. This town, "the Sheffield of Belgium," is noted for its weapon-factories, and one quarter is given up to workshops. The Chs. of St. Jacques, St. Denis, St. Martin, Ste. Croix (10th century), St. Barthelemy, as well as the Cathedral St. Paul, should be seen. The Choir of the cathe- dral dates from the 13th century. The splendid Gothic Palais de Justice (described in Quentin Durward) was the palace of the prince-bishops, built in 1508-40 by Cardinal de la Marck, a rela- tive of the "Wild Boar of the Ardennes," Mus^e des Beaux-Arts (daily, 10-4, free) containing a number of excellent modern paintings and a few by old Flemish masters ; Mus^e d'Atisem-

228 BELGIUM. Spa.— Luxembourg.

hourg and Archwological Museum (both daily ex. Sat, 9-1, 2-4, free) ; Palais cle Justice; Univer- sity (library, 250,000 vols.) ; the Communal Museum; the Citadel, with grand views; the Royal Camion-foimdry, the Pare d'Auroy, and the Pare du Champ des Oiseaux. The environs have beautiful scenery.

The route to Cologne traverses a picturesque region to Verviers (15^ M.), a modern city of woollen-factories ; thence to Aix-la-Chapelle. From Li^ge you may visit Spa. On the way is Chaudfontaine (Hotel des Bains; de la Rolonde), D famous watering-place. The waters (used in baths) are beneficial in nervous diseases. Eight M. beyond is Pepinster, whence runs a branch line (^ hr.) to Spa (Grand Hotel Britannique; des Bains; de Spa; Continental; de la Poste), one of the oldest European watering-places. The cli- mate is remarkably fine, although exposed to sudden variation, dangerous for consumptives. The waters are tonic (iron). 3-4 glasses should be taken daily, and the cure demands 6-8 weeks. Season, May 15-Oct. 15. 10,000 to 15,000 vis- itors come here annually. The village (8,000 inhab.) is in a pretty glen, among wooded hills and scenery famous for beauty.

From Namur you may go to Luxembourg and Tr§ves, and thence make a delightful excursion down the Moselle by steamboat to Coblence. You may also go from Lifege (109f M. in 5-6 hrs.) to Luxembourg.

Luxembourg (Grand Hdtel Brasseur; de Lux- embourg), formerly a famous fortress, the capital of the grand duchy, was made a neutral state by the Treaty of London in 1867. It is very pic- turesquely situated on a rocky plateau, with

BELGIUM. Beussels. 229

precipices on 3 sides. The Alzette valley is di- vided by a fortified rock called the Bock, on which is the ancient Melusina Tower. See Cathe- dral, Hotel de Ville, Arcliceological Museum, and the Park on the site of the old fortifications. Rlys. hence to Treves or Metz, by Thionville.

Brussels and Environs.

Brussels (Lower Town; Palace Hotel; des Boulevards; Upper Town; Ast07'ia et Mengelle; Carlton; Bellevxie), the capital of Belgium, has (including suburbs) 675,000 inhab. To appre- ciate Brussels, read the histories of the old town,— the terrible period of the Spanish domi- nation, the riots and bombardments in the 17th century, the annexation to France, and the union with and secession from the Low Countries. Brussels stands on an undulating plain. It is , divided into the Ui)per and Lower Towns. On the hill are the palaces, the Park, and the fine Rue Roy ale. Below, in the picturesque older portion, are the commercial classes. Brussels is on the line betw^een the Walloons and Flem- ings; and you will hear French and Flemish spoken, the former prevailing. Go first to the Grande Place, the ancient forum of Brussels. Note the exquisite fagade of the Hotel de Ville (built 1402-4.3), and the stately spire, 370 ft. high, at whose top is a colossal statue of St. Michael. Entrance fee, i fr., ascent of tower i fr. additional. Beautiful tapestries and paint- ings in the Salle des Fetes, etc. Opposite is the Maison du Roi, built by Charles V. (1514-25). There were imprisoned Counts Egmont and Hoorne, and in front they were decapitated, in

23© BELGIUM. Brussels.

1568. Many of picturesque houses on the Place were built by the Guilds, as meeting-places. Tournaments were held here in the 15th century. The famous Mannikin fountain is back of the Hotel de Ville. The Galerie St. Huhert is one of the finest arcades in Europe. In the steep Rue Montague de la Cour are the finest shops. At the top is the Place Royale. On the left is the great Palais de V Industrie, with statue of Prince Charles of Lorraine. The Museum of Modern Painting (10-4) contains about 400 paintings of varying degrees of excellence. The Museum of Old Paintings (10-4), in the Palais des Beaux-Arts, contains 13 canvasses by Ru- bens ; many Van Dycks, Holbeins, and Rem- brandts. In the Musee de Sculpture, in the same building are some very good works by modern Belgian sculptors. Next take the Rue de la Regence, ending at the Palais de Justice, which covers more ground than St. Peter's at Rome, and cost $8,400,000. Vast dome. Near by are the Palace of the Comte de Flandres; the Place du Petit 8al)lo?i, with monuments to Counts Eg- mont and Hoorne ; the Rotjal Conservatory of Music; and the Synagogue. Next, going by the Rue Royale, visit the Park, a lovely promenade (military music, 3-4^, in summer) ; then to the King's Palace, simple, but well stocked with fine pictures. When the flag is up, the King is there. When he is not, strangers are admitted (2 fr.). Ministries in elegant buildings near the Park. The Palais des Academies is near the Park. This building, in Italian style, contains the Academies of letters, arts and sciences, and medicine; and a noble concert hall, with paint- ings of episodes in Belgian history. The Palais

BELGIUM. Brussels, 231

clu Cinquantenaire, with a triumphal arch, erected by King Leopold 11. contains the Musee Royal des Arts D6coratifs et Industriels in which are a fine collection of lace, casts of oriental and antique sculptures, and many silver, copper, and glass works of art; and the Musee Royal des Antiquit^s. On the Pare Leopold is the Mus4e d'Historie Natyrelle, the collections in which are limited to animal species either now or in pre- historic times native to the country correspond- ing to the present kingdom of Belgium.

Ste. Gudule, the great Gothic Church (12-4, 1 person, 1 fr. : 2-6 persons, | fr. each), was founded in the 11th century ; choir and tran- sept, 13th century ; towers and nave, 14th. The carved pulpit, made in 1699, represents the Ex- pulsion from Paradise. Superb stained-glass windows ; and many rare old tombs.

Other Objects of Interest. — Place des Martyrs, with monument to those who perished in the Revolution of 1830; Place des Barricades, and statue of Vesalius, the anatomist ; Place du Lux- embourg, statue of Cockerill ; Place de la Mon- naie, and Opera House; Bourse; Rue Neuve; handsome new boulevards around the old city: Observatory ; hospitals ; National Banlv ; Musee Wiertz (fantastic compositions of a Belgian painter) ; Museum of Antiquities, and Porte de Hal; precious paintings in Aremberg Palace; Bo- tanical Garden; Bois de la Canibre, the Bois de Boulogne of Brussels.

At Laeken, 2 M. N., is the Ch. of Ste. Marie, where members of the royal family are buried. In the cemetery, grave and statue of Malibran. — Royal Palace, the King's favorite residence. Monument to Leopold I. — Manor of Bouchout.

232 BELGIUM. Louvain.— Ostend.

where dwelt Carlotta, ex-Empress of Mexico.

Waterloo may be reached by rly. to Braine I'Alleud and steam tram to the Butte du Lion, or to Waterloo and tram to Mont St. Jean; or you can go by mail-coach from the Place Royale, at 9.30 A.M. (round-trip, 7 f r. ; coachman, 1 fr.). Guides, Belgian and English, on the field (fees, 2-4 fr.). Waterloo is a Flemish village. The Mt. St. Jean and the Butte du Lion, on which is a pyramid and a colossal lion, should be visited. Museum at Hotel du Mus^e.

Louvain (Hotel de Suede; M^tropole), popu- lation 45,(XX), may be visited from Brussels in 1 hr. (fares, 2 fr. 30 c, 1 fr. 75 c, 1 fr. 15 c). This was one of the great weaving-centres; but after 1383 the weavers went to England. The Hotel de Yille is one of the marvels of Belgium. This jewel of Gothic art was built 144a-63. Ex- terior lavishly decorated with statues. The great Gothic Ch. of St. Pierre (open daily, ex- cept 2-4; fee to sacristan ^ fr.) has a fine taber- nacle and many remarkable paintings. Les Halles, built 1317, and the vast prison, should be seen. The University, founded in 1426, is Roman Catholic, and has 1,600 students.

Ghent, Bruges, Antwerp, etc.

You may visit Ghent and Bruges from Ant- werp or Brussels ; or, if you come directly from England to Ostend, you can go through Bruges and Ghent to Brussels. Fares, Dover to Ostend, 15 s., 10 s. ; 68 M. ; time, 4-6 hrs. Fares, Ostend to Brussels, 9 fr. 30 c, 6 fr. 95 c, 4 fr. 65 c,

Ostend (Continental; de la Plage; de VOc^an; Splendide; Regina; Leopold Deux) is the seo-

BELGIUM. Bruges. 233

ond maritime town in Belgium (40,000 inh.) and the summer residence of the king. It re- ceives about 18,000 visitors annually. Renowned sea-baths ; magnificent stone dylie, 1 M. long ; monumental Cursaal ; Leopold Parli, filled with cafes. Celebrated oyster-parks here, where Eng- lish oysters are stored in purified sea-water tanks. From Ostend it is 14 M. (fares, 1 fr. 75 c, 1 fr. 35 c, 90 c.) to

Bruges (Hotel cle Flandre; Du Commerce; de Londres; Panier d'Or), 60,000 inh., on the grand canals to Ostend, Ghent, and Sluys. It is, like Amsterdam, called the "Venice of the North," because seamed with canals. Handsome rly. Stat. Guides, 1-3 fr. The 13th century was the epoch of Bruges' greatest prosperity. It was the centre of the trade of the Hanseatic League, and the chief commercial city of Europe. Its decline dates from 1545. In the Grand Place is the Fleur de Ble Inn of which Longfellow sings. There also stood the house in which Maximilian was confined in the revolt of 1488; and opposite is the home of Charles II. of Eng- land, in his exile. The Cathedral of Saint Salva- tor (open daily, except 12-4; opened then for small fee) stands on the site of one built in 1358, and has a great number of fine old Flemish pictures (fee to climb the tower, 1 fr.). Notre Dame contains some veiled paintings, shown for a fee of ^ fr. The choir and nave date from 1186; the tower from 1250. It is the largest brick tower in Belgium, — 390 ft. high (fee, 1 fr.). .Handsome bronze doors ; exquisite marble group of the Virgin and Child, by Michael Angelo, over the altar. In chapel on r. (1 fr.), sumptu- ous ancient tombs of Charles the Bold and his

234 BELGIUM. Ghent.

daughter Marie. Carved pulpit. Large collec- tion of paintings.

The Belfry of Bruges (see Longfellow), one of the quaint monuments of the Communes, is 350 ft. high, (fee, ^ fr. below, ^ fr. above). The chimes (48 bells) play every quarter-hour. — The Hotel de VUle (1377) is a noble Gothic edifice, with 6 towers. — The Hospital St. Jean, \V. of Notre Dame (open daily, except Sun., 9-4 or 6,1 fr.), is renowned for its marvellous paint- ings by Hans Memling. Do not fail to see these. The Chasse de Ste, TJrsule is the best. The Mus6e Communal (9-1, 2-3.30 or 6, i f r. ; Sun. 11-1, free) has many remarkable pictures by the old masters. In St. Jacques are brass engraved monuments of Spanish families. — The Chapelle du St. Sang was built in 1150 as the receptacle for a phial that the Patriarch of Jerusalem had given to Theodoric of Flanders, with some drops of the Saviour's blood. Portal and staircase, Flamboyant Gothic. The Palais de Justice (re- built, 1722) has a carved chimney-piece (1528- 29) in the Court Room (ifr.). Bruges, though decadent and melancholy, is celebrated for pretty girls and decorated old houses. See statues of Membling and Jan van Byck. From Bruges it is f hr. (fares, 3fr. 40c., 2fr. 55c., Ifr. 70c) to

Ghent (Hotel Oanda; de la Gour St. Georges; de la Poste) , a city of 165,000 inhab., on the river Scheldt. The town is divided into 26 islands, and has 88 bridges. The history of Ghent is romantic. It became the capital of Flanders in 1180. 200 years earlier, Baudouin had introduced weaving. The great Guilds, under Jacques van Artevelde, etc., ruled this region for 2 centuries, and often came to blows among themselves, as

BELGIUM. Ghent. 235

on May 2, 1345, when 1,500 men were slain in a terrible street-battle. In the 15th century there were 40,000 weavers; and the woollen workers alone furnished 18,000 men to the civic army. Charles V. was born in Ghent in 1500. From the Spanish domination dates the decline. 11,- 000 inhab. emigrated at once to England and Holland. Louis XIV. took the town after a siege of 6 days, in 1698. In 1810 Napoleon I. made a ceremonial entry, with Marie Louise.

Notice the MarcM du Vendredi, a great square surrounded by old houses. In the middle, the political forum of Ghent, stands a statue of Van Artevelde. In the Cathedral of St. Bavon (open daily, except 12-1) see the vast crypt, built in 991 and restored in 1228; the noble nave and transepts (1533) ; and the tower, built in 1533-34 (416 steps; fee, 2 fr., 1-4 persons). See the picture of "The Adoration of the Spotless Lamb," by the brothers Van Eyck. Although more than 400 years old, it preserves its brilliancy of col- oring. Here also is a chef-d'oeuvre of Rubens. Two statues of Sts. Peter and Paul ornament the choir. The Hotel de Ville, built 1481-1628, is a remarkably beautiful Flamboyant building, whose E. fagade is very striking. The Belfry, built 1183-1339, whose bells assembled the citi- zens, is 386 ft. high, and commands an exten- sive prospect over Flanders (ascent, 2 fr.). There are 44 bells in the chime, including Ro- land. The Beguinage, the chief curiosity in Ghent, is a community of women who are not bound by vows, but live by their own labors or resources. This institution of secular saints had its origin in the 7th century. The old Grand Beguinage formed a separate quarter of the

236 BELGIUM. Malines.

city, surrounded by walls, and included 18 con- vents and 100 houses. The new suburban one has many handsome Gothic houses, and a vast ch. 600 women live here, and make rich laces. See St. Jacques Ch.; St. Nicholas and St. Michael, crowded with pictures ; St. Pierre, with rare old paintings; the imposing Palais de Jus- tice; the University, with a splendid marble ro- tunda, and a library in old Baudeloo Monastery (200,000 vols.) ; and the Museum (^ fr.). The Mus^e d'Archeoloffie (10-4 or 6, i fr., Sun. free) contains a very valuable collection of Flemish antiquities. The Musee des Beaux-Arts (10-4 or 5, ^ fr., Sun. and Thurs. free) contains some good paintings, old and modern, and a number of modern sculptures. The Palace of the Counts of Flanders, built in 1180, where John of Gaunt was born, 1340, is open daily, 10-4 or 6, ^ fr. On Marche du Vendredi is an old cannon, such as stone missiles were fired from. See Botanical Garden (Ghent is called "The Queen of Flow- ers") ; Zoological Garden (fee, Ifr.) ; ruins of Athey of St. Bavon. Fares from Ghent to Brus- sels, 4fr. 35c., 3fr. 25c., 2fr. 20c.

From Brussels to Antiverp trains run in 1 hr., passing Malines, or Mechlir {Hotel de VEurope; de Beffer; de la Couronne), a city of 60,000 inhab., the ecclesiastical capital of Belgium. In 1572-80 the town was sacked and burned by the Spaniards, the troops of the Prince of Orange, and the English. See the Cathedral of St. Rom- hold, begun in 1451. Imposing interior and carved pulpit. Huge tower, 320 ft. high, with a splen- did chime of 44 bells. In the S. transept is The Crucifixion, by Van Dyck. In Notre Dame is Rubens' Miraculous Draught of Fishes (1 fr.).

BELGIUM. Antwerp. 237

In St. Jean is a fine Triptych by Rubens (^ fr.). Mechlin is renowned for its beautiful lace.

Antwerp {Grand Hotel; des Flandres; St. Antoine; de V Europe) is one of the most flour- ishing commercial towns in Europe (400,000 inhab.), and one of the quaintest and most re- plete with historical and artistic interest. Na- I)oleon I. wished to make Antwerp a great mari- time arsenal, and built vast docks ; but the Ant- werp people have constructed others yet more vast. Climb the Cathedral Tower (75 c), and look over the crowded Scheldt, and over the Low Countries from Breda to Brussels. The Cathe- dral (built 1352-1530) is the most imposing ch. in Belgium (Sun. and Thurs. 8-12, free; other days 12-4, 1 fr.). The majestic interior (384 ft. long, 130 ft. high) is divided into 7 aisles, by 6 rows of columns. Choir built 1352-1411. Philip II. once held a Chapter of the Order of the Golden Fleece here. In 1566 the Iconoclasts did irreparable damage. (See Motley's "Dutch Republic," for romantic episodes in Antwerp's history.) In the south transept is Rubens' Descent from the Cross, usually kept veiled. In the north transept is Rubens' The Elevation of the Cross, Above the high altar is The Assump- tion, also by Rubens. See stone outside with the epitaph of Quentin Matsys, and the sculptured pulpit and tabernacles. The magnificent tower is 402 ft. high (finished 1530) ; the chimes have 99 bells. Napoleon likened this tower to Mech- lin lace. Near the portal is the celebrated iron well-canopy made by Quentin Matsys. St. Paul, St. Andreiv, and St. Antoine contain rare old Flemish paintings. The Gh. of St. Jacques (built 1429-1507) contains the tomb of Ru-

238 BELGIUM. Antwerp.

bens, and many good pictures and sculptures (small fee). St. Augustine has pictures by Ru- bens, Van Dyck, etc. The Hotel de Ville, built in 1561-65, contains splendid mural paintings (done in 1864-69) in the Salle Leys. Many old Guild houses (1513-79) near by. Visit the beau- tiful new Gothic Bourse; the Palais de Justice; and the House of BuJ)ens (Rue Rubens), where the painter died. The Mus^e Royal des Beaux- Arts (daily, 10-4 or 5, 1 f r. ; Sun. free) is the best picture gallery in Belgium, containing sev- eral hundred paintings, old and modern, with many Rubenses and Van Dycks (catalogue, 3 fr.). For notable private collections inquire here. The Mus^e Plantin (10-4 or 5, 1 fr., Sun. free) is an old Flemish dwelling house and print- ing establishment containing antique furniture, tapestries, and a number of paintings. The Mus^e de Folklore contains articles and docu- ments relating to the customs of the Low Coun- tries in all ages. The new Boulevards, on the site of the walls ; the vast docks, quays, and warehouses ; the Park ; and the statues of Ru- bens, King Leopold I., Van Dyck, and Teniers, are worth seeing. The Citadel and fortifications are interesting.

Steamers from Antwerp to Rotterdam thrice weekly, in 9 hours ; fares, 5 fr. 30 c, 3 fr. 20 c. To London, Sun., Wed., and Fri., 34 fr. To Lon- don liia Harwich, daily, 34 fr., 26 fr. 70 e. Regu- lar departures for all the great ports of thQ world.

HOI^AND. ROTTEBDAM. 239

HOLLAND.

THE tourist may very pleasantly and profit- ably spend 2 or 3 days to a week in Hol- land. Go from Antwerp (time, 4 hrs. ; fares, 10 fr. 45c., 7 fr. 70c., 4 fr. 90c,) to

Rotterdam (Maas; Leygraaf ; Weimer; Coo- mans), the second city in Holland (400,000 in- habitants). The Maas is here navigable for the largest ships ; and the scene on the quay is very animated. Superb docks, and many canals. The steamboats land passengers near the Boompjes quay. Here stood the Dutch East India House, now turned into colonial warehouses. Rotter- dam builds many ships ; has a heavy trade with Java and Sumatra, and steam lines to London and other Atlantic ports ; and is a great point for the departure of emigrants for America. The canals are bordered with trees, and the suburbs are pleasing. The Hoogstraut, the Willemskade, the new quay, are worth seeing. The Boymans Museum (open daily, 10-3; 10 c.) has fine ex- amples of Rembrandt, Rubens, Durer, Wouver- mans, and Ary Schefifer. In the Groote-Kerk is a noble organ ; also monuments of several famous admirals. Good view from the tower, 297 feet high (60 c). The Old Ch., the S. Ch., the new Tomn Hall, the Exchange, the Botanical Oar- dens, the Zoological Gardens, may be easily seen in an afternoon. The statue of Erasmus stands in the Groote-Markt ; and on the house which was his birthplace is the inscription, Hcec est

240 HOLLAND. The Hague.

parva donius, magnus qud natus Erasmus. The 'New Park is W. of the town. Walk along the Maas, noting the peculiar costume of the peas- antry and the singular neatness of the houses. From Rotterdam to the Hague takes ^ hr. (fares 2 g. 20 c, 1 g. 60 c). On this route is Schiedam, renowned for its distilleries (see Hotel de Ville and Exchange), and 'Delft (Hotel LulyrecMs), a very ancient Dutch town, once famous for porcelain, but now dull and dignified. The stair- case on which William of Orange was shot (1584) is still shown. It was from Delft that the Pilgrims embarked for Plymouth and Amer- ica (1620). In the Oude Kerk, see the tomb of Admirals Van Tromp (1653), Hein, etc. In the Nieuwe Kerk (1412-76) is the magnificent Mau- soleum of William of Orange.

The Hague (Hotel Belleviie; des Indes; Pan- lez; Vieux Doelen; Central), the capital of Hol- land (256,000 inhab.), is in summer one of the most charming places in Europe. It nestles in a delightful forest, where all the characteristics of Dutch scenery — mossy trees, green banks, and winding brooks and canals — appear. The Mau- ritshuis Picture Gallery (open free daily, 10- 3; Sat, 10-1; catalogue, 50 c.) contains the very best examples of the Dutch school of art, and many other celebrated paintings, — Paul Potter's famous Bull, Rembrandt's School of Anatomy, the Presentation in the Temple, etc. On the E. is a statue of William the Silent (1848). In the Buitenhof, statue of William II. Opposite the Royal Palace, equestrian statue of Prince William I. See the Marine Museum, with its wonderful collection of models for ships ; the Royal Lihrary (500,000 vols.) ; the collection of

HOLLAND. ScHEVENiNGEN. — Leyden. 241

40,000 coins and medals ; the Groote KerTc, with its beautiful tombs; the Eloster KerJc; the New Ch., where Spinoza is buried. The ponderous old Bmnenhof Palace and the Buitenhof square are of great historic interest. The Grand Coun- cil now holds its sessions in the ancient torture- room. Beyond the Buitenhof you reach the gloomy Gevangenport tower, where De Witt was slain in 1672. In the Willems-Park is the grand National Monument (built 1863-69), cov- ered with statues. The national buildings are plain and substantial. On the Noordeinde is the Royal Palace, and the old Museum of King Wil- liam II. Prince Frederick's Palace is not far from the Park. See the pretty royal villa called Huis ten Bosch, built in 1647, and filled with treasures of art (fee, 1 g.).

From The Hague it is about 3 miles (steam tramway or electric road) to the pretty seaside resort of Scheveningen (Palace Hotel; d'Orange; Kurhaus; Park; Central; Wittehrug), a fishing- village among the dunes. In summer, the fash- ionable world of North Germany, Holland, and England, and many people from the S., assemble here. Beautiful sea views and fine forests. Ley- den and Haarlem may be visited between The Hague and Amsterdam (fares to Amsterdam, 4 g., 3 g. 5 c. ; to Leyden, 80 c, 60 c, 40 c. ; from Leyden to Haarlem, 1 g. 40 c, 1 g. 10 c, 70 c).

Leyden (Hotel Levedag; Lion d*Or; Central) 60,000 inhab., famous for the great siege (see Motley). Leading objects of interest; the spacious Hooglandsche Kerk; the Natural His- tory Museum (open daily, free), with the finest cabinet of comparative anatomy in Europe (open

242 HOLLAND. Haarlem. — Amsterdam.

daily, 2-5, except Sun.) ; the Mtcseum of An- tiquities (open free daily, 10-4 or 5) ; the Ethno- graphical Museum (open daily, 50 c.) ; the Municipal Museum of antiquities and paintings (open daily, 10_3) ; the University (600 stu- dents), founded after the siege, with excellent observatory; Library, 200,000 volumes, 6,000 MSS. ; the Botanic Gardens (E. Indies plants). The Hotel de Ville (Stadhuis) has many inscrip- tions relative to the siege of 1574.

Haarlem (Lion d'Or; Funckler; Leeuwerik) is a town of 78,000 inhab. The siege by the Spaniards in 1572, and the heroic defense, are described in Motley's picturesque history. The Cathedral is very spacious ; 28 columns in the nave. The vast organ, with 5,000 pipes, is played Tues. 1-2, and Thurs., 2-3; at other times 12 fl. for a party. Visit the interior. Marble crypt under the organ. From the tower extensive view. See the Teyler Museum (Mon. to Fri., 11-3 or 4, free) of paintings, etchings, and nat- ural history objects; the Municipal Museum (10-3 or 4, 25 c, Sun., 12-3 free) with several hundred paintings. ; the statue of Coster, in- ventor of printing with metal types; Coster's House and the Haarlem Forcyf, a fine park.

Amsterdam (Amstel; BracJc's Doelen; Biilej Americain; Victoria) is a city of 590,000 inhab., named from the Amstel, an Inlet of the Zuider Zee, communicating with the North Sea by the N. Holland Canal, 50 M. long, the most gigantic undertaking at the time ever executed. It com- mences opposite Amsterdam, and extends to the Helder and the Texel ; cost $5,000,000. The town is built upon piles driven into the sand. Its canals are spanned by more than 300 bridges.

HOLLAND. Amsterdam. 243

The finest view is from the Hooge Sluys. Near by is St. Anthony's Gate, with 5 towers (built 1488-1585). The Palace is a huge stone struc- ture, standing on 13,695 piles. Near it are the Dam, the memorial of 1831, the Exchange, the Post-Office, the Nieutve Kerk, the Seaman's Club. From the tower, one has a magnificent panorama of the city. Fine marble sculptures on the front of the Royal Palace, in which the Throne Hall, the Grand Hall, decorated with trophies, and the Audience Hall, are remarkable (fee, 50 c), The Botanical and Zoological Gar- dens (latter, 75 c.) are equal to those of any other city. The Ryks Museum, (free daily, 10- 3), has the best collection of paintings in Hol- land (get catalogue) and also fine collections of furniture, textiles, jeweli*y, and sculptures. The Municipal Museum contains modern paint- ings and a collection of antiquities. The Fodor Museum has very good French and Dutch pictures. See statue of Reynl^randt ; Admiral de Ruyter's House; great range of state warehouses on En- trepot Dock ; Park, good music on Sun. ; shops where diamonds are polished; Jetvish quarter. Amsterdam is the cleanest city in Europe; on a bright Sunday it presents a charming spectacle. Notice the Fountain, commemorating the events in 1830-31. In the old church on the Dam, monument to Van Buyter. Pleasant excursions to Barmen, and other pretty suburban towns. Broek, 6 M. out, is a wonderfully clean village. At Zaandam is the house where Peter the Great worked when learning the shipwright's trade. Good fish dinners here. It is 1 hr. (23 M. ; fares. 2 g. Oc, 1 g. 25c.) from Amsterdam to

244 HOLLAND. Uteecht.

Utrecht {Kasteel van Antwerpen; Pays Bas; de V Europe; de la Station), the Roman Tra- jectum, a fine city of 120,000 inhabitants, the home of many Dutch families of rank. Noble Cathedral here, constructed in the 13th century, and much tried by hurricanes and iconoclasts. The people of Utrecht boast that from the tower, 321 ft. high, you can see all Holland. In the church, fine organ and magnificent mausoleums. South of the cathedral is the Vniversity, founded in 1636, very rich; 1000 students. See the ex- cellent collection in the Antiquarian Museum (daily, 10-4, 10 c. ; Sun. and Wed. 1-4 free) and the many specimens of Dutch ecclesiastical art in the Archiepiscopal Museum (daily, 10-4, 50 c). The Palace of the Popes, founded by Adrian VL, with a statue of St. Salvador, is now the palace of the provincial government. Adrian was born in Utrecht. Fine new boulevards around the city.

From Utrecht you can begin your journey up the Rhine. Take rail to DUsseldorf, pass- ing Arnhem, the Arenacum of the ancients. The Romans encamped here 70 years b.c, and it was for a long time the residence of the Dukes of Guelders. See the Cathedral, with tomb of Count Egmont. Tower, 330 ft. hrgh ; wonderful chimes. The Palace of Justice has a fine court-room. Emjnerich (Hotel Royal; Rheinischer Hof) is the first German town, a neat looking place of about 15,000 inhabitants.

GfiiRMANY. DussELDORF. — Cologne. 245

GERMANY AND AUSTRIA.

Diisseldorf {Breidenhacher Hof; Royal; Park; Heck; Bomischer Kaiser), a city of 312,000 inhab., is the principal art-centre on the Rhine. The Academy of Arts was founded in 1767 ; it occupies Renaissance building erected in 1879- 1881 ; contains lecture-halls, studios, etc. Here, also, are the remains of the famous Gallery of Art, and many drawings, of all schools (open Sun., Wed., and Fri.. 11-1, free). Handsome Rhine Bridge, from which extends the fine Rhine Promenade; Hofgarten, next to Pempelfurter- garten (now Malkasten Club), haunts of Goethe and Herder. Ch. of St. Lam'bert contains the tombs of the last. Dukes of Cleve and Berg. St. Andreto's is very interesting. In the hall of the Realschule is a frieze by Bendemann (adm. 50 pf.). In the Courts of Justice see Schadow's "Heaven, Hell, and Purgatory." Many fine mod- ern paintings in the Eunsthalle. See statues of Elector John William III., Cornelius, Emperor William I., Bismarck, and bronze group, repre- senting the Rhine, which stands in front of the Provinzial-Standehaus. Museum of Industrial Art will repay visit. Several exhibitions of pic- tures in the town ; fees, 50 pf.

Cologne {Dom Hotel; Monopol; Kolner Hof ; Westminster; Savoy: Belgischer Hof; Harms; Minerva), the sixth town in the German Empire (510,000 inhab.), and an important garrison. Many of the streets in the older part of the city

246 GERMANY. Cologne.

are dark, narrow, and mediaeval. Many houses date from the 13th century. Cologne was founded by the Ubii, when Agrippa transferred them to the left bank of the Rhine ; and colonized by Roman veterans when Germanicus held com- mand, as Colonia Agrippina. It was the resi- dence of the legates of Lower Germany. Con- stantine the Great built a bridge here in 308, afterwards destroyed by the Normans. From the 5th century it was a part of the Frankish kingdom. Extensive Roman remains here.

The Cathedral, the grandest Gothic building in the world, was begun in 1248. The choir was consecrated in 1322, and the nave in 1388; but about 1500 the work ceased, and in 1795 the French troops used the half-ruined church for a hay-magazine. Construction was resumed in 1823, and $5,000,000 spent upon it between 1842 and 1880, when it was consecrated, with im- I>osing ceremonies. Since that time nearly $2,- 000,000 more has been spent on the building. The superb W. fagade and lofty portals are flanked by 2 huge towers, crowned by open spires, over 500 ft. high. The bells were placed in the S. tower in 1447 ; and in 1874 a new 30- ton bell, made from French cannon, was added. A forest of flying buttresses joins the nave and aisles. The total length is 444 ft. ; breadth, 201 ft. ; height of nave, 145 ft. There are 4 aisles ; and the triple-aisled transepts extend to the imposing N. and S. portals. There are 56 vast columns inside. The stained windows in the N. aisle date from 1508-9 ; those in the S. aisle (equally beautiful) are Munich work of 1848. The Choir contains 14th-century statues of the 12 Apostles, 15th-century carved stalls.

GERMANY. Cologne. 247

aacient stained windows, modern frescoes of angel-choirs, modern tapestries, and 7 wonderful chapels, with venerable tombs of the arch- bishops, the Bavarian Electors, etc. The re- liquary in the Chapel of the Three Kings con- tains the bones of the Magi, carried to Con- stantinople by the Empress Helena, thence to Milan, and presented by Barbarossa to Cologne's archbishop in 1164. The heart of Marie de M§dicis is buried here. The Library contains Hildebald's precious MSS. ; and many deeply in- teresting relics are in the Treasury and in the Archiepi'Scopal Museum, S. of the church (adm. 9-6, 50 pf. Sun. and holidays, 10-2, 30 pf.). See inner and outer galleries of the choir. The build- ing is open all day, but walking about is not allowed during service. Adm. to choir and li- brary 1.50 mark. The Archieplscopal Museum, south of the Cathedral.

Over the rly.-bridge are equestrian statues of Frederick William IV. and William I. W. of the Cathedral is the great Gothic Wallraf-Rich- artz Museum (open 9-5, 50 pf., free on Sun. and Wed.) with many hundred paintings, and very interesting Roman and medieval relics. In the adjacent Minorites' Ch., Duns Scotus is buried. In front of the church is the monument to Kolping, who was the manager of the labor unions. Beautiful Gothic cloisters. St. Gerden's Ch. (fee, 1 mk.), contains the bones of the The- ban Legion, martyred at Cologne, under Dio- cletian. Skulls and bones of the martyrs to be seen in the choir. Curious crypt. In St. Ursula is the tomb of that unhappy princess, \vho, with her 11,000 virgin companions, was massacred at Cologne on her return from Rome. The ch. (5th

248 GERMANY. Aix-la-Chapeixe.

century ; restored) has a Gothic portal. You are shown the bones of the martyrs in all parts of the ch. In the Treasury (fee, 1§ mk.) is St. Ursula's Reliquary. Great St. Martin has a majestic tower, and an exquisite baptismal font, said to have been given by Pope Leo. III. St. Maria im Capitol is an imposing Romanesque church dating from th* 11th century. ;8'^. Peter has an altar-piece by Rubens. St. Cecilia dates from 1200. The Apostles' Ch. (1200) has a pic- turesque choir. St. Cunibert (1248) has rich frescoes and glass.

See the Giirzenieh, built for the holding of municipal celebrations and popular festivals (adm. 50 pf.) ; the Roman Tower; the house in which Marie de MSdicis died in exile and pov- erty; the Monwnent to Frederick William III., surrounded by statues of statesmen and generals who relieved the Rhine from French domina- tion; and the bronze statue of Bismarck. The Rathhaus (adm. 50 pf.), dating from the 13th century, has the Lion's Court, and the quaint hall in which the first Diet of the Hanseatic League was held. See Botanic and Zoological Gardens, and the many "original and only" shops where the Farina Eau de Cologne is sold.

Aix-la-Chapelle (Hotel Grand Monarque: Nuellens; De VEmpereur; Union; Dilren), the Aachen of the Germans and the Aquisgranum of the Romans. This was the favorite residence of Charlemagne, and here he died in 814. Aix was at one time the capital of all the country N. of the Alps. 37 German emperors were crowned here. For centuries the Imperial Diets were held here. The modern town is handsome, with the characteristics of a watering-place. The

GERMANY. Aix-la-Chapelle. 249

warm Sulphur Springs were renowned in the Roman era, and wonderful cures are still ef- fected by them. The most important is the Kaiserquelle. At the Elisenhrunnen crowds as- semble daily in summer to drink the waters. The Kurhmis has a superb concert-hall (fee, 50 pf.). In the Ma/rJcet-place is a fountain, with statue of Charlemagne. The great Cathedral Is in two sections; the quaint-roofed Byzantine octagon (in the style of San Vitale, at Ravenna), built by Charlemagne, 796-804, and consecrated by Pope Leo III. ; and the lofty choir, in the best Gothic style (1353-1413). The octagon con- tains many fine columns, brought from Rome and Ravenna ; bronze doors, cast in 804 ; and the pulpit, rich in gold and gems, presented by Henry II. See the stained windows, designed by Cornelius; and the 14th-century statues. The tomb of Charlemagne was opened by Otho III. in 1000 ; and by Barbarossa in 1165 when the body was removed from the marble throne on which it was seated, and placed in a Parian sarcoph- agus. The throne (afterwards used in the coro- nation ceremonies) and the sarcophagus are now in the gallery. The bones of Charlemagne are enshrined in the Treasury, where are also the girdles of Christ and Mary, a piece of the True Cross, etc. (open daily, 9-1, 3-6 ; 3 marks for 1-3 persons. Notice the old Flemish paintings inside of the cabinets. Some of the holy treasures, such as the swaddling-clothes of the infant Saviour, are shown but once every 7 years.

The Rathhaus was built out of the debris of the palace of the Carlovingian emperors (1376). The Hall of the Emperors (75 pf.) has noble fres- cos. The Wairiors' Monument commemorates

250 GERMANY. Bonn.

the soldiers slain in 1866 and 1870-71. The Siiei^mondt Museum (10-1, 50 pf., free Sun. and Wed. ; Mon. open only to strangers, 1 mark ) has some good pictures.

Up the Rhine by Steamer.

The journey can be made in 1 day from Cologne to Mayence. It is better to take 2 days, stopping at Coblence. There is a rly. on either bank, but the steamboat is preferable. If, how- ever, you wish to go from Cologne to Frankfort by rail, you can do so in 4 hrs. Through tickets by boat allow stopping off, but be careful to re- sume the journey by the boats of the same com- pany.

Bonn {Goldener Stern; Royal; Rhei/neck; Rote Kanne) has a beautiful location. Just beyond, the banks become bold and precipitous, and the beauties of the famous stream begin. Bonn was the Gastra Bonnensia of Tacitus, a great Roman fortress. It has suffered terrible sieges. The University occupies the old castle, built in 1717- 30 as an electoral palace, and 1,800 ft. long. It has a library of 350,000 vols. ; museums of Ro- man and Teutonic antiquities and of Arts (75 pf. each; catalogues for sale). See bronze statue of Beethoven in the Munsterplatz. The Beethoven Museum (adm. 1 M., Sun. and Wed. 50 pf.) is in the house where Beethoven was born in 1770. The Cathedral, said to have been founded by St. Helena, the mother of Constantine, is a cruci- form basilica, with two choirs and a high octag- onal tower. Bronze statue of the Empress Helena inside. The Poppelsdorfer Schloss, reached by a quadruple avenue of horse-chest-

GERMANY. Koningswintee. 251

nuts i M. long, contains a very large natural- history collection (9-1, adm. 30 pf., free on Sun. ) . Chemical Laboratory near by. The Ana- tomie, a noble edifice, finished in 1872, is not far off. Beyond Poppelsdorf is the Kreuzberg, 400 ft. high, on which is a ch. containing the Holy Staircase, built in imitation of that at Rome, and to be mounted on the knees only. The Goh- lenzerstrasse is very handsome. The Provincial Museum (10-1, adm. 50 pf., free Sun., Tues., and Thurs. ) , containing an interesting collection, and the House of Arndt are interesting. On the Alte Zoll is the Monument to Arndt. In the ceme- tery are buried Niebuhr the historian, Schlegel, Robert Schumann, Arndt, and Von Bunsen. The Rhine Bridge crossing to Beuel on the east bank is the most graceful of all the bridges on the river ; it has a length of 1415 ft. with a central span of 615 ft. It is decorated with a number of humorous figures.

Konigswinter (Europdischer Hof; Mattern; Diisseldorfer H}3f; Kolner Hof; Lommerz- hehn), on the E, bank of the Rhine, is the point whence to visit the Siebengebirge. The Drachenfels (1066 ft. high) may be ascended donkey back, in carriages, or by cog-wheel railway. Half-way up is the far-viewing tower on the Hirschherg. To the W. is the Monu- ment in memory of the events of 1813- 15. The Castle stands near the Terrace (where there is a good hotel). It was built about 1100 by the first archbishop of Cologne, and takes its name from a dragon slain there by Siegfried, the Niebelungen hero. The red wine made from its vineyards is called Dragon's Blood. The castle was destroyed by Ferdinand of Bavaria,

252 GERMANY. Rolandseck.

after a long siege. Ruins still magnificent. Su- perb view of the Seven Mts., the basalt cliffs be- hind Remagen, Oberwinter, the ruins of Roland- seck, Bonn, and Cologne. See the cavern .where the fabled dragon had his abode. An excursion may be made to the OeWerg, the view from which is the most extensive in the Rhineland. Thence it is 11 hr. to HeisterlacJi, an old Cis- tercian abbey, in a beautiful valley. Little is left of the magnificent ch., built about 1200. From the Oelberg, the Ldwenhurg (1,504 ft.), a castle where the Elector of Cologne had inter- views with Melancthon before becoming a Pro- testant, may be reached. Fine view. Return from Heisterbach to Konigswinter in f hr. by the PetersJ)erg, whence good view. Konigswinter is near most charming scenery.

The boat touches at Rolandseck {Hdtel Ro- landseck; Bellevue), on the west bank, ^ hour above Konigswinter. From restaurant at the railway station is a fine view of the Seven Mts., and the Rhine to Remagen. Rolandseck is a very popular summer-resort. Ruined Castle stands on a basalt rock, 347 ft. above the Rhine. It was founded by Roland, the Paladin of Charlemagne, who died at Roncesvalles. The island of Nonnenwerth, where stands the con- vent in which the beautiful Hildegarde is said to have taken the veil when she heard that Ro- land had perished in Spain, may be reached by a small boat (return-fare, 1 M.). This event The convent was suppressed in 1802, reconsecrat- ed in 1845, and closed again in 1876. It is now a girls' school. See Bulwer's Pilgrims of the Rhine, and Schiller's ballad of Ritter Toggenhurg. RhevnbreitMch (B. bank) is a large town, with

GERMANY. Remagen. — LiNZ. 253

towers, at the entrance of a valley filled with copper-mines. At TJnkel (E. bank) the clififs stand out into the bed of the stream, producing a rapid. The view from Oberwinter, on the W. bank, is very fine. Just above is

Remagen (Fiirstenherg ; RJiem; Victoria), no- ticeable for its church on the Apollinarisberg (a hill to the N.), a pretty Gothic edifice with four towers, entirely modern, on the site of an old pilgrimage-shrine of the Middle Ages. It was built by Zwirner, architect of Cologne Cathedral, and contains 10 grand frescos, masterpieces of modern German art (open 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. ; Sun., after 10; fee 30 pf.). The legend states that when the Archbishop of Cologne was descending the Rhine (in 1164) with the bones of the Magi and the head of St. Apollinaris, Bishop of Ra- venna, his boat was stopped here, by some mys- terious power, until the later was placed in the chapel on this site. Remagen was a Roman town (Rigomagns), but lost its importance in the Thirty Years' War. Beautiful excursions thence, between bold basaltic hills, up the Valley of the Ahr, where 4,000,000 bots. of red wine are produced yearly. It is 7 M. to the Baths of Neuenahr, a charming watering-place, with warm alkali springs, used for lung and liver diseases. Ahrioeiler, a quaint little walled town, has fine view from Calvarienberg. Ruined castles and pretty villages abound.

Opposite Remagen, over Ei'pel (E. bank) is a basaltic cliff, the Erpeler Lei, 642 ft. high. Lini (Weinstock) is an ancient town on the W. bank, with walls and pavements of basal, and a 13th- century Romanesque ch,, containing a triptych of the ancient Cologne school of art. The ad-

254 GERMANY. Andeenach.

jacent hills have interesting basalf-quarries, and crosses commemorating the battles of Leipsic and Waterloo rise on two of them. Arenfels castle, above Linz, lately restored, has an an- cient round tower, and, in the Knights' Hall, a collection of armor. Visitors are admitted to the park daily, to the castle on Wednesdays. Rheineck (W. bank), the boundary between the upper and lower Rhenish districts, is a lofty Romanesque castle on the site (and with a tower) of a fortress of the 12th century. It may be visited from Brolil (* hr.), and has some fine paintings (fee, 50-7.5 pf.) and a superb view. It was sacked by the French in 1689 and by troops of Cologne in 1692. Farther up, near Brohl, is Hammerstein, a 10th-century castle, where Henry IV. took refuge from his sons, and which was held, during the Thirty Years' War. by Swedes, Spaniards, Germans, and Lorrain- ers. In 1660 the Archbishop of Cologne de- stroyed this too powerful neighbor. Roman ruins 4 miles to the east.

Andernach {HackcnTyrnch ; Anker; Schdfer; GlocJce), on the W. bank, has narrow streets, ancient walls, a many-towered Romanesque ch. (1206), and a lofty watch-tower, built in 1414- 68, and breached by French guns in 1688. It was one of the 50 forts of Drusus ; recaptured from the Alemanni by Julian in 339 ; a royal Franconian residence in the 6th century ; an im- perial town later; stormed by Cologne troops in 1496; and burned by the French in 1688. The deep moat and massive towers of the castle remain (see Longfellow's Hyperion). Tramway to the Benedictine Abbey of Laach, founded in 1093, with magnificent Romanesque ch. and cloisters.

GERMANY. Coblenz. 255

on the vasfcrater-lake of the Laacher See (6 M. around).

The Rhine now flows through a defile, between rugged heights. Neuwied (Anker; Wilder Mann; Moravian) , on the E., has the palace and park of the Prince of Wied, and a community of austere Moravian Brethren with admirable schools and workshops. Monrepos is a chateau of the Prince, 870 ft. above the river, easily reached on foot; and at Altwied, about a mile and a half from Monrepos is the ruined medi- aeval castle of the counts of Wied. Weissen- thunn is opposite Neuwied, with a white watch- tower marking the boundaries of Treves and Cologne. Above is an obelisk to General Hoche, erected by a French army crossing the Rhine in 1797. Near Engers (E. bank) are fragments of Roman masonry, supposed to be parts of Julius Csesar's bridge across the Rhine (see Commentaries) . Miihlhofen (E. banlv) is 1^ M. from the ruins of Sayn castle, and the great modern chateau of Sayn, rich in art. Kessel- heim (W. bank) is near Schonbomlust, an old palace of the electors of Treves and of the exiled Bourbons. On Niederwerth island, where Edward III. of England lived in 1337, is an old convent ch. At Neuendorf the small timber- rafts from the Upper Rhine and Moselle are en- larged and strengthened, before drifting Hol- landward. The high fortress of Ehrenbreitstein now comes into view, and the palace of the Prussian King.

Coblenz {Riesen; Monopol ; Anker; Palast; 8cheid), the capital of Rhenish Prussia (40.000 inhab.) is at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle, whence the Romans called it Con flu-

256 GERMANY. Ems.

entia. It is a powerful fortress,' with heights crossed with enormous fortifications. The Pal- ace was built by the last Elector of Treves, and contains interesting Electoral Hall and Festival Hall, with portraits, tapestries, etc. (10-12, 2-6, fee, 25 pf.). The Mainzer-Thor and others of the city gates are worthy of notice. St. Castor is a handsome 4-towered basilica, founded in 836 and rebuilt in 1208. Before it is the historic Castor Fountain. The Moselle Bridge (14 arches) dates from 1344. Monument of Em- peror William I. at junction of Rhine and Mo- selle. ArcJiiepiscopal Palace (now a factory) dates from 1276 ; the Liehfrauenkirche, from the 13th century ; the Merchants' Hall, from 1480. The Rhine Promenade is a beautiful waterside park, 1^ miles long; there is a statue here of von Schenkendorf, a German poet, and also a column commemorating the laying out of the promenade. The KiUikopf, 1,190 ft. high, com- mands a grand view over the Rhine and Mo- selle valleys, and the Rittersturz, about 500 ft. high, laid out as a park, commands a fine view. The Kartause is a fortified hill to the west. Across the Rhine is Ehrenbreitstein, "Honor's Broad Stone" (open daily; 50 pf.), "The Gib- raltar of the Rhine," a vast fortress on a pre- cipitous rock, 387 ft. above the river, and com- manding a wonderful view. It was granted by King Dagobert to the archbishops of Treves in 636, and has been beleaguered many times, but yielded only twice. The French destroyed the works in 1801 ; but they were rebuilt, 1816- 26, at a cost of $6,000,000.

It is 1 hr.'s rly. ride or 7 M. walk from Ehren- breitstein to Ems {Hotel d'Angleterre; Vier

GERMANY. Tkeves 257

Tiirmer; Loive; Quatre Saisons; Romer'bad ; Villa Bella Riva), a little town on the Lahn, amid wooded heights, a spa, annually visited by 12,- 000 health-seekers (season, July 15-Sept. 1). The waters (saline and alkaline) are beneficial in pulmonary and other affections, and have been used since 1354. The Kurhaus and Kur- saal are the centre of the exotic life, and stand amid pleasant gardens.

From Coblenz a pleasant excursion may be made by steamer up the Moselle, llli M. in 1^ days, passing the night at Trarbach, and reach- ing Treves in the afternoon. Voyage back to Coblence, 12 hrs. Rly. to Treves in 2^ hrs. (69^ M. The valley of the Moselle is very beautiful, and interesting historically. Over Cohern is a wonderful pilgrimage-chapel ; over Broden- pach the splendid Ehrenburg ruin ; over Cochem, "two fine castles and a monastery ; oA^er Trarhach, the ancient Grafin'burg ; and near Neiimagen, Roman ruins.

Treves {Hotel de Treves; Porta Nigi'a; R6- I mertor ; Post; Reichshof), on the Moselle, was I the. capital of the Treviri ; then the Augusta Tre- I virorum of the Romans ; then capital of Gaul, 1 and Rome's rival in art and commerce. This old- i; est city of Germany has 50,000 inhab. ; although I its well-preserved amphitheatre, in which Con- j stantine delivered thousands of Franks to be I torn by wild beasts (a.d. 306), accommodates 30,- OOO spectators. The vast ruins of the Roman Baths were connected with the Palace of the Em- perors. The Porta Nigra is a huge Roman gate- way of blackened sandstone, 118 ft. long and 95 ft. high. The ruins of the Roman Palace (adm. 50 pf.) are interesting. The Cathedral dates

258 GERMANY. Capellan.

from 550, — a vast structure, under which repose the archbishops and electors of Treves. Here are preserved Christ's seamless robe, a nail from the Cross, a fragment of the Crown of Thorns. The interior was renovated in 1907. Cloisters run thence to the Liebfrauenkirche, a beautiful circular ch. (1243). The Basilica, built before Constantine, successively a Roman court-house, exchange, imperial governors' pal- ace, bishops' palace, and barrack, is now a ch. The Town Library contains valuable MSS. and some new printed books. The Provincial Museum (11-1, 50 pf., Sun, and Wed. free) con- tains objects of art, pictures, and a very inter- esting collection of Roman antiquities. Rly. from Treves to Tkionville and Luxembourg (J hr.).

Ascending the Rhine from Coblenz, Capellen (Stolzenfels; BeUevue) is reached (W. bank)". over which rises the royal castle of Stolzenfcls (10-12, 2-7, 25 pf.) 420 ft. above the Rhine, with a magnificent view. It was built in 1250 by the Archbishop of Treves, and inhabited by his suc- cessors. The French destroyed it in 1688; and since 1823 it has been restored by the Prussian King. Rich historical frescos in Chapel and Knights' Hall, many rare old pictures and curios- ities.

Niederlahnstein (Douqu^) and Oberlahnstein {Lahneck; Breitenhach) are on either side of the Lahn River, opposite Capellen (ferry every J hr., 10-20 pf.). near the lately restored castle of Lahneck, Above Capellen is Kbnigsstuhl, where the 4 Rhenish Electors used to meet, in open air, to elect emperors and conclude treaties. The Emperor Charles IV. built a castle here in

GERMANY. Boppaed. 259

1376. It had fallen in ruins but was restored in 1843. Farther up is Rhens (W.), with walls and a moat constructed by the Archbishop of Cologne in 1870. Brauhach (E. bank) is under Marks- burg (adm. 40 pf.), an imposing castle 492 ft. above the Rhine, founded before 1400, and still uninjured. The tower was raised a number of feet in 1905. Old Swedish and French cannon and armor here.

Boppard {Spiegel; Bellevue und RJiein; Reh- stock ; Lange), on the W. bank, was a Celtic town ; fortified by the Romans, and named Bodo- hriga; headquarters of the 13th Legion: seat of a lodge of Knights Templar ; and an Imperial town. The inner wall is Roman, the outer wall mediaeval ; and the two churches date from 1200 and 1500. The high-placed Marienberg, formerly a Benedictine nunnery, is now a water-cure. The situation is lovely, in a broad bend of the Rhine, above which the mts. recede, giving place to rich meadows and green fields. Opposite pretty Salzig, famous for cherries and for saline i baths, employed in catarrhal troubles, are twin rocky peaks, whereon rise the ruined castles of SteiTen'berg and Lleheustein, to which attaches the legend of Conrad, Heinrich, and Hildegarde. Over Wellmiclb (E.) rises the castle of Tliurn- hei-g, finished in 1363, and then derisively called The Mouse by the lords of the Cat at St. Goars- hausen.

The handsome old town of St. Goar (Sehnei- der : RJteinfels), founded in 570, is overlooked by the grandest ruin on the river, the famous Rhein- fels, dating from 1245; besieged by 26 Rhenish towns in 1255 ; held by the French, 175&-63, 1794-97, and blown up by them ; and now royal

1

260 GERMANY. Oberwesel. — Bacharach.

property. St. Goarshausen (steam-ferry to St. Goar) is under the castle called The Cat, built in 1393, and blown up by the French in 1806. Many charming excursions from either of these towns. The noble and well-preserved ruin of Reichenberg castle (1280) is 3 M. E. (fee 1 mark). The picturesque Swiss Valley is back of St. Goarshausen. Above is the Lurlei rock, a precipice 433 ft. high, rising over whirlpools in the deepest and narrowest part of the Rhine, and the fabled seat of a siren who lured sailors to death. Farther up are the Seven Virgins' rocks, with their grim legend.

Oberwesel {Goldener Pfropfenzieher) , on the W. ; a picturesque Roman town, rich in wine and scenery ; beloved by artists, who haunt the gray old walls, the massive mediaeval towers, the 15th-century Ch. of Our Lady, with rare old carvings and pictures, and the Chapel on the riverward wall, commemorating a terrible deed in 1286. Above all, Schonburg, the lofty castle, the birthplace of Marshal Schomberg, who lies in Westminster Abbey. This many-towered cradle of a race of warriors was demolished by Louis XIV.'s troops in 1689. Caub (E.), abound- ing in wine (see statue of Bliicher), is under the castle of Gutenfels, built in 1277, and destroyed in 1807. Above is the Pfalz, a hexagonal for- tress in the middle of the Rhine, built by Lewis of Bavaria about the year 1200. Thence he used to swoop down upon passing vessels, and exact tribute. Hereabouts, Bliicher's and York's Prussian and Russian armies crossed the Rhine, Jan. 1, 1814.

Bacharach {Hotel Herhrecht ; Altes Haus: Bastian) on the W. bank; a favorite resort; its

GERMANY. Assmannshausen. 261

wines, celebrated in Longfellow's Golden Le- gend, still entitle it to the name Ara Bacchi (altar of Bacchus), which the Middle- Ages men gave it. A fire in 1872 destroyed many rare old houses ; but the gray walls, descending from Stahl- eek, still envelop the town ; and the beautiful Gothic ruin of St. Werner's CTi., and stately Romanesque St. Peter's Church (now restored), still stand fast. A pleasant promenade runs along the river. Overhead is Stahleck castle, the home of the Counts Palatine until 1265, be- sieged 8 times by the French bet^^veen 1620 and 1640, and blown up in 1689. Fiirstenberg, an- other noble ruin, is near by. The robber-knights fired thence on the ship in which Adolph of Nas- sau was descending to Aix-la-Chapelle, to be crowned Emperor (1292). Excursion up the nar- row Steeg valley ; also to Kreuznach.

Lorch (Krone), on E. bk., the Roman Laurea- cum, has a Flamboyant 12th-century ch., with quaint monuments and fine bells. Near by, over the DeviVs Ladder cliff, is castle. Nollingen Niederheiml)ach (W. banli is under Hoh)ieck, or Heim'burg castle. Above is Sooneck castle, built in 1015 by the Archbishop of Mayence ; and Falkenburg, or the Reichenstein, destroyed as a robbers' nest by the Rhenish towns (1251), and again by Rudolph of Hapsburg, who hung its knights from the windows. Rheinstein, farther up (W. bank), is a picturesque castle, built be- fore 1279, and restored 1825-29 by Prince Fred- erick of Prussia, who is buried here (entrance. I mk.).

Assmannshausen {Hotel Krone; Anker ; Rhein ; Park; Reutershan) on the E., exports aromatic red wine all over the world. Above is the rapid of

262 GERMANY. Bingen.

the Bmger Loch, where the raftsmen have hard work, although the dangerous rocks which for- merly gave much trouble have been removed. Ehrenfels (E. bank) is a high tower, built in 1210 by the Governor of the Rheingau, damaged by the Swedes in 1635, and demolished by the French in 1689. Beyond are the terraced slopes which produce the Riidesheim wine. Opposite Ehrenfels, on quartz ledges in the stream, is the Mouse Tower, where, as legend tells, Arch- bishop Hatto of Mayence was devoured alive by mice because he caused a crowd of famine- stricken peasants to be burned to death, compar- ing them to corn-destroying mice.

Bingen (Hotel Victoria: Weisses Ross; StarJc- cnhurger Hof ; Distel; Godel; DeutscJies Haus), under the heights at the mouth of the Nahe, amid charming scenery, where the Rhine bends around the Niederwald, on which is the new National Monument, with huge bronze statues, etc., and from which is a ravishing view. On the Drususherg are the ruins of Klopp, once a Roman castle, destroyed by the French in 1689. The Rochusberg (341 ft. high) overlooks the beautiful Rheingau. Rly. from Riidesheim to Wiesbaden, Frankfort, Ems, and Nassau; and from Bingerbriick to Mayence, Coblenz, Cologne, and Kreuznach (Oranieuhof ; Kurhaus; Hotel du Nord; Englischer Hof), a prettily situated watering-place, where 6^,000 persons go yearly for the salt-baths, efficient in cutaneous troubles.

From Bingerbriick one can go, by the Frank- fort-Paris route, to Metz in 8-9 hrs., passing Kreuznach; Ohersteiih a beautiful village on the Nahe, devoted to polishing agates ; Neiinlcirchen ; and Saar'briicken, 3 M. N. of the battle-ground of

GERMANY. Rudesheim. — Johannisb'eg. 263

Spicheren (1870). Metz {G^^and Hotel; Royal; Post; Elsdsser Hof; de Metz) is a city of 75,000 inhab., on the Moselle, once the capital of the kingdom of Austrasia, was seized by France in 1552, and regained by Germany in 1870, after a prolonged siege, and several terrible battles near Gravelotte and Mars-la-Tour. Since then the vic- tors have greatly extended the vast fortress. \Usit interesting E. side of town. The Cathedral (10.30-11 and 3-5) is a magnificent 13th-century Gothic ch., with a tower 387 ft. high, and with modern portals adorned with many sculptures, one of them of the Prophet Daniel having the face of Emperor William II. In front is a statue of Louis XIV.'s Marshal Fabert. Statues of Marshal Ney and Emp. William I. on Espla- nade near Palace of Justice. The Municipal Museum (11-1, 2-4, Sun. and Wed. free) con- tains a collection of natural history objects, and some medi£eval and Roman antiquities.

Riidesheim {Rheinstein; Bellevue; Darm- stddter Hof; Jung), op. Bingen, has rich wines, far-viewing heights, wild legends, and a Roman fortress. Farther up is GeisenJieim, with mon- asteries and vineyards. On the heights is Johannisberg, where, on the site of a Benedictine convent of 1106, the Abbot of Fulda built a castle, afterward granted to Prince Metternich. and now amid the best vineyard on the Rhine, and commanding a superb view. Beautiful walks from Rudesheim hence, or to EltviUe. The river scenery above Bingen is less interest- ing, and many travellers go hence to Mayence by rail ( f hr. ; by steamer, 2h hrs. ) . Above Geisenheim, well in-shore on the r., is Ingelheim, the site of Charlemagne's great palace. Elt-

264 GERMANY. Mayence.

ville (on the W.) has fine villas and venerable ruins, and is 4 M. from the famous warm baths of Schlangenhad. From Bieljrich, rly, to Wies- baden, Above is Petersau, where Louis the Pious, Charlemagne's son, died in 840:

Mayence or Mainz {Hotel de Hollande; d'An- gletetre; dii Rhin ; Pfalzer; Germania), is a city of 110,000 inhab., occupying a strategic position, commanding the confluence of the Rhine and Main (garrison, 8,000 men). It was the Roman Mogontiacum, fortified by Drusus (b.c. 14), and headquarters of the 14th and 22d Legions. The Citadel, on their camp-ground, has a monument erected by his soldiers to Drusus, who died here. Pope Zacharias (in 751) made St. Boniface, the English missionary, Archbishop of Maj-ence (the first German bishopric) ; and after 1250 "Golden Mayence" originated and headed the league of 100 Rhenish towns. In 1462 Archbishop Adolph of Nassau killed the foremost citizens, and Mayence became a mere archiepiscopal town. The French republicans took it in 1792, and it was a French town for 17 years. In 1814 it became Hessian, The Cathedral (until 11.30, 3-6) begun in 978, and 6 times burned and re- stored, is a vast structure, with domes and round towers (one 324 ft. high) and splendid brass gates (made in 1135), The interior is very grand, richly frescoed (by Veit), with choirs on E. (1175) and W. (1239), and 56 columns up- holding the vaulting. There are scores of fine old monuments, including one to Fastrada, Charlemagne's wife. The restored Cloisters, built in 1412, are the finest in W. Germany, and contain Schwanthaler's monument to the pious minstrel Heinrich von Meissen (died 1318),

GERMANY. Mayence. 265

erected by tbe women of Mayence in 1842. Thor- waldsen's statue of Gutenberg, tbe inventor of printing, stands near tbe Catbedral ; and tbe bouse in wbicb be was born is not far off. St. Stephen's Ch. (1257-1318) and cloisters are on bigb ground, and tbe tower overlooks Mayence. Tbe Electoral Palace, built 1627-78, and used by tbe Frencb for storing bay, is in tbe N. E. quarter, and contains a ricb museum (10-1, sometimes also 2-5 ; 50 pf., Sun. and Wed. free) of Roman-Germanic relics, a library of 200,(X)0 vols., togetber witb tbe G-utenderg Museum of MSS. and works relating to printing, and a Pic- ture-Gallery of 9 rooms, witb many fine old paintings (Titian, Murillo, Holbein, etc.). Tbe Grand-Ducal Palace, opposite, was a Lodge of tbe Teutonic Order,, and bas an arsenal at- tached. Tbere are cbarming walks along tbe river in tbe Esplanade, and in tbe Neue An- lage Park (restaurant). An iron bridge crosses tbe Rbine from tbe Esplanade opposite tbe ar- senal to Castel, a small but strongly fortified suburb. Here stood once a Roman bridge.

A Run Through North Germany.

With Frankfort and Wieshaden.

Tbe traveller sbould now determine wbetber to basten on to Switzerland, or (wbicb is mucb better) spend a few days in Germany, going from Mayence to Frankfort, Weimar, and Berlin ; and tbence down to Dresden, Prague, and Vienna; returning to tbe Rbineland by Nurem- berg, Municb, and Heidelberg. Tourists going direct to Switzerland may pass S. from Mayence,

266 GERMANY. Frankfort-on-Main.

by Worms and Strasburg, to Basle, in 10-14 hrs., or by Darmstadt, Heidelberg, Carlsruhe, Baden, and the Black Forest.

From Mayence it is f hr. by rly. to the Prus- sian city of Frankfort-on-the-Main {Frankfurter Hot; Schwann; Union; d'Angleterre; Carlton; Bristol; Monopol; Savoy; Deutscher Kaiser), which has 372,000 inhab., and stands on a mountain-girdled plain. Charlemagne held a council here in 794 and later sovereigns granted high privileges. From 1356 to 1806 this was the place of election for the German emperors (be- ginning with Barbarossa). many of whom were crowned Here. It was a free city from 1814 to 1866, when Prussia annexed it. Frankfort is a handsome and agreeable place, with good so- ciety and vast wealth. The ancient Romer, or Town Hall, contains the Emperors' Hall, and the room in which the electors met to choose the emperors. In front, the coronation festivals were given. Up to 1800 no Jews were allowed on this square, ^ee Cathedral (before 11.30 and after 2), dating from 1238. Historical Museum in Archives building and restored Leinwandhaus (10-3, 50 pf., Sun., Tues., Wed., Fri. free). The bridge over Main (leading to Sachsenhausen) , built 1342, has a statue of Charlemagne. The Saalhof has a chapel of the Carlovingian kings. The Exchange is a very handsome modern build- ing. The 13th-century chs. of St. Leonliard and St. Nicholas are interesting. The house in which Goethe was born, and where he wrote Wefther, is public proper tj^ His statue (w^ith bas-reliefs) by Schwanthaler is near the RossmarJct square; and there is another in the Town Library (150,- 000 vols.). There is a bust of Lessing in front

GERMANY. Hombueg. 267

of the upper Main bridge, and one of Schopen- hauer near the Rechnei-Graben. Schopen- hauer's house is in Borne Strasse, formerly the Judengasse. Bethmann's Museum contains Dan- neck er's Ariadne, etc. (open 10-1, 3-5, 50-75 pf., free on Sun.). The Museum of Art and In- dustry (10-1, 50 pf., Sun. and Wed. free) is well worth a visit if time permits. The Stddel Art Institute (11-1, daily, free; afternoons (ex. Thursday) 1 mark), in the suburb of Sachsen- hausen on the opposite side of the Main, contains a valuable collection of sculptures, paintings, and drawings. The Municipal Gallery, near the Sta- del Art Institute, and open at the same hours, contains sculptures and pictures by modern Frankfort artists. The Zeil and the Kaiser Strasse are the most brilliant streets in Frank- fort. See Palm Garden, sculpture in the railway station, Opera-House, Natural History Museum, and Zoological Garden. The Judengasse quarter, where the persecuted Jews lived, 1462-1806, and where the Rothschilds originated, is being mod- ernized. Chains and gates formerly closed the streets at evening and on Sundays, and no Jew was allowed outside.

From Frankfort it is f hr. by rly. to Homburg (Gt'and Hotel; Hotel da Pare; Augusta; Vic- toria; Bellevue; Adler; Kaiserhof), a celebrated watering-place on the Taunus Mts. Iron and saline springs in the superb gardens of the Kur- haus (library, reading-room, and fine saloons). The Kurpark has fine walks and many mineral springs. See the castle of the Landgraves. If M. N. on the mts. is a massive Roman fort, built by Germanicus, and a remnant of the wall, 150 M. long, which protected the Rhineland.

268 GERMANY. Wiesbaden.

From Frankfort it is 1 hr. by rly. to Wiesbaden {Islassauer Hof ; Vier Jahreszeiten; Palast; Kaiserhof ; Metropole; du Pare; Tamius; Grilner Wald), in the lovely valley of the Salz- bach, on the vine and grove-clad S. W. spurs of the Taunus Mts. 200,000 visitors annually par- take of the warm saline waters, beneficial in rheumatism and gout. Pliny mentions these fontes calidi; and the camps of the 14th and 22nd Legions were near by. The air is very healthy, and the town pretty. Back of the handsome Kur- saal is an extensive park, the favorite resort of visitors. See the 2 palaces, the museum, and pic- ture-gallery, the library, the Government build- ings, and the 5-towered Gothic ch., with its col- ossal statues. The Heidenmauer, N. W. of the town, is a Roman wall, 650 ft. long. Beautiful walks to Iserothal, Platte, and other environs. Frankfort to Hanover, Ha^nburg, and Bremen.

From Frankfort a rly. runs N. W. across Hesse (5-8 hrs.), by high-walled Friedherg ; the mineral springs of Nauheim, used in the treatment of heart disease; the rly. junction of Giessen; and historic Marburg, with its splendid chs. and castle ; to Cassel (Nord; Royal; Schirmer; Konig von Preussen) , the beautiful old Hessian capital (150,000 inhab.), with its electoral palaces and vast Museum Friedericianum (10-1 Thurs., 3-5 Tues. and Wed. free), containing a library of 200,000 vols. ; myriads of gems, mosaics, weapons, ivories, etc. In the Belle vug castle is a gallery of several hundred fine old paintings. The Isiat- ural History Museum (Mon.. Thurs., 10-1 ; Tues., Sat., 3-5 free) contains a fine herbarium and a natural history collection. In the Picture Gallery ( 10-1, Mon., Thurs. 3-5, free ; at other times 50 pf . )

GERMANY. Hanover. — Brunswick. 269

are to be- seen a number of fine ancient and mod- ern paintings, especially of the Flemish and Ital- ian schools. The brothers Grimm lived in Cas- sel, their home being No. 24 Wildemannsgasse. Wilhelmshohe, 4 M. distant, is a sumptuous pal- ace, in a park famous for its fountains and cas- cades. Here Napoleon III. was imprisoned in 1870-71.

From Cassel it is 4-5 hrs., by Gottingen, fam- ous for its university, to Hanover {Royal; Bris- tol; Kasten's; Bornemami's), a handsome city of 250,000 inhab., once capital of Hanover, and since 1866 a Prussian provincial capital. See the palaces of the Hanoverian kings ; the Royal Lib- rary, of 170,000 vols.; the Rathaus; the hand- some Theatre; the ^eio Provincial Musemn, in- corporating the Guelph Museum and the Cumber- land Gallery, and the Eestner Museum of Egyp- tian, Greek, and Etruscan antiquities ; and numer- ous statues and monuments. N. W. is the impos- ing Palace of the Guelphs; also, Herrenhausen, the suburban palace and park of the dethroned dynasty. Hanover is 10 hrs. from Rotterdam, on the route to Berlin; and 7-10 hrs. from Berlin, via Brunswick and Madgeburg. Brunswick {Mon- opol; Deutsches Hans; Eaiserhof; Schracler's) the residence of the Duke of Brunswick, 135,000 inhab., has a mediaeval air, with its ancient Gothic Town Hall ; St. Martin's Ch., rich in carv- ings ; the Cathedral, built by the Crusader Henry the Lion in 1172 ; the bronze Lion monument (1166) ; etc. The splendid modern Ducal Palace is near the Ducal Museum, in which are 900 pic- tures, and countless other relics and curios. See also the Burg Dankwarderodc, the Briidern- Kirche, the Alstadt-Rathaus, the Victary Monu-

270 GERMANY. Hamburg.

ment, and the Theatre. The fortifications have been replaced by promenades and gardens. Madge- burg {Central Hotel; Magdehurger Hof; Contin- ental) on the Elbe, has 240,000 inhab. The Cathe- dral, dating from the 13th century, is justly cele- brated for its grandeur and beauty. See the Monument of Otho /., erected in the latter part •of the 13th century, the Kaiser Friedrich Museum of Arts and Crafts, the Gruson Conservatories, in the Friedrich-Wilhelm's Garten.

From Hanover it is 112 M. (4-5 hrs.) by Liine- hurg, with its ancient houses and chs., to Ham- burg {Hamhurger Hof; Esplanade; Palast; Vier Jahreszeiten; Kronprinz ; St7'eifs; Moser's), 860,- 000 inhab., ranking next after London among the important seaports of Europe. It is on the lower Elbe, and is the chief of the three Hauseatic towns. Charlemagne founded a castle here (805), and Louis the Pious an archbishopric; but the city is now all modern. There are vast and crowded quays, shipyards, rlys., docks, a busy Exchange, a Tow^n Library (250,000 vols.), mu- seums, monuments, and a good art gallery. The Binnen-Alster is a charming water-park, 1 M. around, surrounded by quays and promenades, lines of trees, and blocks of handsome houses and hotels, and enlivened by many pleasure-boats and groups of swans. It connects by a narrow strait, spanned by the Lombard's Briicke, v>ith the Aussen-Alster, a still larger basin of water with handsome villas on its banks. See the Prince Bis- marck Monument, the fine Zoological Garden, the Rathaus, the KunsthaUc, the Galtt i:. SVchcr, and the Museum of Industrial Art. Tr? ins carry pas- sengers to and from Cuxhaven the home port of

GERMANY. Bremen. 271

the New York steamers of the Hamburg-Amer- ican Line.

Adjoining Hamburg is Altona {Kalserhof) , near which is Stellingen, where is Karl Hagen- becJc's Zoological Garden (8-4. 50 pf., Wed. 1 mark) in which an attempt is made to reproduce for the animals as nearly as may be the sur- roundings of their original homes.

From Hamburg, train runs S. W., 76 M, (2^ hrs), across a poor flat country, to Bremen {Cen- tral: Hill man's: cle VEurope; Siedenhurg; du Nord), a great Hanseatic commercial town, on the Weser River, with 215,000 inh. See the richly decorated Rathhaus (1410) ; the frescoed Ratlis- Jceller, famous for wines ; the 11th-century Ro- manesque Cathedral; the KunstliaUe, with pic- tures; the splendid new Gothic Exchange; the colossal Roland statue (1412), and the Promen- ades.

Frankfort to Weimar, Leipsic, and Berlin.

This route passes through Fulda, an ancient ecclesiastical capital ; and in 5-6 hrs. reaches Eisenach {Cirossherzog von Sachsen; Fursten- hof;; Kalserhof) , the quiet town where Luther went to school. Near by is the Wartburg, a lofty Romanesque castle, founded in 1070. and lately restored and richly frescoed. Here Luther was hidden (1521-22), and many relics of his sojourn are shown. 4 hrs. S., beyond the Ducal capital of Meiningen, is Coburg (BaJinols-HOtcl), a hands'ome Franconian city, with a remarkable castle.

On the Berlin route is Gotha {Deutscher Hof). a pleasant ducal city, with 37,000 inhab. In and near the great Friedenstein Palace are remark- able collections of antiquities, coins, objects of

272 GERMANY. Weimar.— Leipsic.

art sculptures, engravings, a library of 200,000 vols., and a famous picture-gallery. The Thurin- gian Forest lies around the Eisenach-Gotha rly. Erfurt (Erfurter Hof; Romischer Kaiser) is an ancient Prussian fortress, with 120,000 iuhab., a high-placed Gothic Cathedral, and the Aiigustin- ian Monastery in which Luther became a monk in 1505. The river Gera and its branches trav- erse various parts of the city, and there are so many bridges and such picturesque life along the water that Erfurt has long been known as the "Venice of Germany." The public parks, on the banks of the river, are very charming. Farther on toward Berlin is

Weimar {Ertprinz ; Russischer Hof; Elefant), capital of the grand-duchy of Saxe- Weimar, an ancient town of 30,000 inhab. Goethe lived here 56 years, until his death in 1832 ; and his collec- tions are shown in the Goethe Mii&eam occupy- ing the house in which the poet lived (open 11-4, 1 mark). Schiller's house is open daily (50 pf.). Herder and Wieland also lived at Weimar. Statues of all these are in the town ; and frescos from their works adorn the handsome Grand- Ducal Palace. Their busts and many curiosities are in the Grand-Ducal Lihrary (270,000 vols.; open daily, 1 mark). The Museum (open April- Sept, 10-4, 50 pf., Sun.. Wed., free) has many curios and paintings. The Stadtkirche (1400^ has a Crucifixion by Cranach, and the tomb of Herder. Schiller and Goethe are buried in the cemetery, S. of the town. Farther towards Ber- lin is

Leipsic (Kaiserhof ; Hauffe; Sedan; de Prusse; Uentschel), a city of 520,000 inhab., the centre of the German book-trade, the seat of high imperial

GERMANY. Halle. 273

tribunals, and the place where 3 great fairs are held yearly, drawing many traders even from Asia and the Levant. 30,000 strangers come to these fairs ; and the annual sales (largely of furs, leather, and cloths) exceed $50,000,000. These picturesque exchanges have been carried on for over 700 years. There are 300 booksellers and 80 printing-offices here. The Museum has Thor- waldsen's Ganymede, and an immense collection of paintings and engravings, mostly modern (open Sun., Wed., Fri., free; Mon. 1 mark ; Tues., Thurs., Sat., A mk). The University, which was founded in 1409, has over 4,000 students. The University Library contains 550,000 vols, and 6,000 MSS. See the Neiv Theatre, with beautiful Corinthian fagade; the Supreme Court Building; the Pleisse^iburg citadel ; the old houses in the Grimma'sche Strasse; Auerdach's Keller, where part of the scene of Goethe's Faust is laid; the house in the Bruhl where Richard Wagner was born; the Ethnographical Museum, etc. In four Oct. days of 1813, 300,000 Prussians, Aus- trians, and Russians, headed by their sovereigns, defeated Napoleon and 140,000 Frenchmen here, and drove them out of Leipsic. In the Market Place is the War Monument by Siemering.

On the Leipsic-Magdeburg-Hamburg rly. is Halle {Stadt Hamburg; Grand Hotel Berges; Ooldener Kugel), with 175,000 inhab., and a famous university (2,000 students). In the mar- ket-place is the ancient Rathhaus, the many-tow- ered Ch. of Our Lady (1530), a clock-tower 276 ft. high, and a statue of Handel (born at Halle, 1685).

.214: GERMANY. Beklin.

Berlin.

(Adlon; Alexandra; Carlton; Eden; Elite; JKaiserhof; Bristol; Royal; Savoy; Palast; Cen- tral; Continental; Minerva; Rome; Monopol; Westminster; Esplanade), capital of Germany (3,000,000 inhabitants), is 3^ hrs. from Leipsic. on a sandy plain, by the river Spree. Originally a Wendish fishing-village, and afterwards a Hanseatic town, it was notably improved by the Great Elector (1640-88), and by Frederick the Great and his predecessor (1713-86). Since the accession of William I. in 1861 the population has increased greatly, and the arts and trades have flourished remarkably.

The best part of the city may be seen by walk- ing down the Unter den Linden, a broad avenue. 1 M, long, with double rows of lime-trees, from the Brandenburg Gate to the Royal Palace. The Gate is an imitation of the Propylaea at Athens, crowned by a fine statue of Victory with horses. Outside is the Thiergartcii, inside, the Pariser- Platz, with the Bliicher Palace and ofla- cers' Club on the S., and the French Embassy on the N. There are several other embassies and palaces on the Linden, with various gov- ernment buildings. The Florentine palace of Count Redern is the first building on the S., and beyond are the residences of the Minister of Religion and Education and of the Russian Am- bassador. Opposite is the Ministry of the In- terior. See the Aquarium and the arcade, Kaiser-Gallerie. At the E. end is the bronze statue of Federick the Great, by Ranch, called the finest of its kind in Europe. The king is on horseback, in his coronation-robes ; and the lofty

GERMANY. Berlin. 275

pedestal is surrounded with life-size statues of his generals, princes, etc. To the S. is the Pal- ace of William /., behind which is the Royal Li- brary (open 1-2), with 1,000,000 volumes and 3u,000 MSS. N. is the Academy Building contain- ing the Academies of Art and of Science; also the University (9,000 students), once Prince Henry's palace, and partly enclosing gardens in which are statues of the Humboldts. Fine anatomical, mineral, and zoological collections here; and a library of 100,000 vols. The Opern Platz contains statues of 5 generals, by Rauch, and is bounded by the Palace, University, Opera House, and St. Hedioig's CJi., an imitation of the Roman Pantheon. Farther E., on the Linden, at the r. is the Empress Frederick Palace; and at the 1. is the Royal Guards-House (military music in summer, 11-12), a copy of a Roman fortified gate. Back of this is the 8 inging- Acad- emy; and on one side is the handsome Arsenal, with many rare trophies of war. Close by is the Schloss Bridge, adorned with 8 groups of statuary, and leading to the Lustgarten, a park in which stands an equestrian statue of Fred- erick William III. On one side is the Royal Palace, a vast double quadrangle, built since 1540, and containing 600 rooms (open daily, 10- 1). See Swiss Hall, King's Hall, Red-Eagle Hall, Throne Room, now Ritter Saal, Velvet Room, Black Eagle Hall, Picture Gallery (fine modern battle-paintings). White Saloon (statues of the 12 Electors), and Chapel, rich in alabaster and gems, and splendidly frescoed. West of the Palace is the National Monument to Emperor William I. The magnificent new Cathedral must not be missed. Opposite the palace is the Old

276 GERMANY. Berlin.

Museum, the finest building in the city, with a gi-and Ionic portico, adorned with colossal bronze groups, and richly frescoed halls (open daily, 10-3). See the collections of antiquities; the sculptures ; the Hall of the Heroes, and the Pic- ture Gallery, unexcelled in its facilities for the study of art history. The 'New Museum contains Kaulbach's famous mural paintings, the Egyp- tian museum, an immense collection of casts, 12 cabinets of Northern antiquities, 4 rooms of ob- jects of art, and 500,000 engravings. It has a Renaissance fagade to the E. ; and opposite is the new Corinthian temple of the National Gal- lery (open daily, 11-3), which contains a mag- nificent and world-renowned collection of mod- ern paintings.

The Friedrichs-Stadt is the business centre of Berlin, and the streets in this section are inter- esting. The Theatre is a classic structure, on the Schiller-Platz, with several fine bronze groups ; in front, a noble statue of Schiller. The Wilhelmstrasse contains notable palaces ; and in WUhelms-Platz are statues of 6 of Frederick the Great's generals. At the west end of the busy Leipziger-Strasse are the halls of the Prus- sian Diet, the offices of the ministers of War and Navy, and of the Postmaster-General ; adjoining the latter is the interesting Post-Offlce Museum. Just beyond Leipziger-Platz is the Potsdamer- Platz, and near this on Kouiggratzer-Strasse cor- ner of Prinz-Albrecht-Strasse is the Ethnographi- cal Museum, (10-3), next to which is the Art In- dustrial Museum (10-3). Belle Alliance Platz contains lofty granite column of Peace (1840). surrounded by splendid marble groups.

GERMANY. Bekliiv. 277

At the E. end of Leipziger-Strasse is the Spit- tei-Markt. Near this (5 Wall-Strasse) is Ra- vene's Gallery of modern French and German pictures (Tues. and Fri., 10-2)/ S. of the Schloss-Brucke is the Academy of Architecture. The Schinkel-Platz has statues of Schinkel, Beuth, and Thaer. The Kurfilrsten Bridge leads from the square S. of the Royal Palace into old Berlin, where are the Imperial Post- Office and the 14th-century Ch. of St. Mary. The Rathhaus (open 10-3) is an immense Ro- manesque building of brick (1860-70), with a tower 286 ft. high, and several handsome halls. Underneath is the Rathskeller, a great refresh- ment-room. Opposite the Museum is the Stock Exchange, a sumptuous Renaissance building, with the greatest hall in Berlin, richly frescoed. Beyond the Hercules Bridge (on which are statues by Schadow) is Monbijou, a beautiful royal palace, in which is the Hohenzollern Museum (daily, 10-3). Near by is the great Synagogue, Moorish in style.

The splendid Konigs-Platz adjoins the Thier- garten, and contains the Monument of Victory, 190 ft, high, commemorating the battles of 1870- 71. Here is the Italian Renaissance Hall of the Imperial Diet, which cost 22,000,000 mks. Facing this on the west is the National Monument to Prince Bismarck. Avenue of Victory, Berlin's favorite promenade, leads through the Thier- garten, a park 2 M. long and f M. wide, with many ponds and groves of large trees. At the end is a large Zoological Garden. S. of this is the Emperor William Memorial Church, erected in 1895. To S. E. is the Botanical Garden with plants of 20,000 species. A tramway runs through

278 GERMANY. Potsdam. — Dresden.

the Thiergarten toCharlottenburg, a large town with a Palace (1699) in a handsome gardeii, and a Mausoleum, with sculptures by illustrious mas- ters. In Berlin's Old Trinity Cemetery, Men- delssohn is buried; and in Trinity Cemetery, Schleiermacher and Neander. Cornelius rests in Hedgivig's Cemetery ; Rauch, Schadow, Schin- kel, Hegel, and Fichte, in the Old Dorotheen- stadt Cemetery: and the Humboldts, at Tegel.

Potsdam {Einsiedler ; Eisenhahn) is 16 M. from Berlin, among wooded hills and the lake- like expanses of the Havel. Here is the Sans- souci Palace, built by Frederick the Great, and full of reminiscences of him. Near by are the Picture-Gallery, the Orangery (adorned with fine statuary), and the Sicilian Garden. The Neic Palace (1769) has 200 richly adorned rooms, with fine paintings, and a noteworthy Marble Saloon. The Marhle Palace is N. of Potsdam, and has many paintings. Bahelsherg is a new Gothic palace, with rich art-treasures. The Town Palace (1660) is full of relics of the Great Frederick. The Garrison Church contains his tomb and military trophies. The Church of Peace is a noble Ionic basilica, with masterpieces of sculpture. The famous Sans-souci fountains play on summer Sunday afternoons. There are several chateaux of princes near Potsdam (60,- 000 inhab.).

Dresden and Prague.

Dresden {Grand Union; Savoy, Europdischer Hot, Continental; Bristol; Neio YorJc; Kron- prlnz ; Vier J ahreszeiten) , "the German Flor- ence," has 520,000 inhab., and has been the

GERMANY. Dresden. 279

capital of Saxony since 1485. Many British and American families dwell here, induced by the abundant facilities for culture and amusement, and also by the cheapness of living. The Elbe is crossed by five bridges, and bordered by the popular promenade, the Bruhl Terrace, adorned with statuary and trees. Here front the Syna- gogue, the Art Academy, the Exhibition Build- ings, and the Court Ch. (famous music, Sun. and festivals, 11). Statues of Richter and Semper and the Maurice monument here. Opposite Court Church is the Hof-TJieater, and near it Guard House. In the square is equestrian statue of King John. The Royal Palace (1534) is an irregular double quadrangle, with a tower 361 ft. high, and a richly frescoed Throne Room. The Green-Vault (8-2 daily, 1 mark) contains the largest existing collection of objects of art, bronzes, ivory carvings, mosaics, enamels, gems, crystal, and magnificent plate ; also the regalip of Poland and Saxony, superb state swords, and precious stones of enormous value : and works of Dtirer, Angelo, and Cellini. The Museum (part of the Zwinger) is a Renaissance building decorated with statues and sculptures, and con- taining the finest picture-gallery N. of Italy (open daily; Sun., Tues., Thurs., Fri. free; Wed., Sat, 50 pf., Mon. 1^ mark). Here are 2,600 paintings, including the Sistine Madonna, Cor- reggio's La Notte, and Titian's Tribute Money ; and choice works of Murillo, Diirer, Teniers, Veronese, etc. ; also, 3oO,0<X) engravings. The Museum Johannemn contains the collection of porcelain (15,000 pieces of Dresden, Sevres, and Oriental ware), and the most interest- ing Historical Museum in Germany (ancient

280 GERMANY. Dresden.

weapons, armor, furniture, and trophies of war). The Alhertinum contains a sculpture gallery and a collection of casts. See the English ch. ; the stone-domed Ch. of Our Lady ; the Cross Ch., with tower 346 ft. high, and fountains and stat- ues in the streets. Monument to the War of 1870-71, in the Old Market.

The Japanese Palace, across the Elbe, con- tains the Royal Library, with 500,000 vols., 6,- 000 MSS., and many rare old books and maps (open to visitors 12-1 summer, 1-2 winter, 50 pf.). In the rear is the pretty Japanese Garden, near which Korner was born and Schiller dwelt. The Grosser Garten is a royal park of 300 acres, wherein the French and Prussians fought in 1813. Here are Zoological and Botanical Gar- dens; also a Museum of Ecclesiastical Antiqui- ties. Schlegel and Weber are buried in the Catholic Cemetery. The monument where Gen. Moreau was mortally wounded is 1^ M. S. ; and the Moritzburg, a royal hunting-lodge, is 6 M. N. PiUnitz (7M.) is a handsome royal chateau. Many charming suburban excursions.

The Saxon Switzerland is a beautiful mt. region, some 500 square M. in area, filled with grotesque sandstone peaks and gorges, and trav ersed by the Elbe. A 2-days' tour leads from Dresden to Potzscha (f hr. by rly.) ; thence (1^ hr.) to the BasteL a hotel-crowned peak, over- looking the whole region and the Elbe valley : thence (5 hrs.) to Schandaii, a summer resort (hotels) in the heart of the mts. and thence (1 day) by the Lichtenhain Fall and the Kukstall and Prehischthor peaks, to Konigstein, a lofty and imposing Saxon fortress. It is 5-7 hrs. up the Elbe valley and through the Saxon Switzer-

GERMANY. Prague. 281

land, by Pima and Ed nig stein, with their fort- resses, and Bodenhach (2^ hrs. from the Schnee- berg, and opposite the handsome castle of Teschen ) , from Dresden to

Prague {Palace ; Erzherzog-Stephan ; Schicarxz- es Ross; Blauer Stem; Central; Monopol), the capital of Bohemia (600,000 inhab.), situated on hills near the Moldau River. The population is chiefly Bohemian, and the Germans are very unpopular. The city was founded by the Duch- ess Libussa. Here Huss and Jerome preached the Reformation, which took firm root in Bo- hemia until the Protestant army was crushed, just outside of Prague, in 1620, by the Bavarian forces of the Roman-Catholic League. The pal- ace of the Bohemian kings is now an Austrian barrack ; and the old Hussite ch., the Teynkirche, containing Tycho Brahe's tomb, is now Catholic ; see the painting of the Assumption by Skreta above the high altar. In front of the Rathhaus 27 Protestant Bohemian nobles were executed, in 1620 ; and 11 of Wallenstein's officers, in 1633. See the Palace of Count Clam Gallas ; the Gothic Pulverthurn tower; the great Jesuit College; the ancient University, founded in 1348 ; the Bohemiaji National Museum; the Museum of Industrial Art; the Rossmarkt, a grand street adorned with statues ; the Neustadt Rathhaus, where the Hussite wars began ; the Jeics' Quar- ter, with 9 synagogues and a very ancient ceme- tery ; and the Wyssehrad citadel. Walk through the (h'ohen (in Bohemian Na Prikope), the prin- cipal shopping street, where beautiful glass and garnet jewelry may be seen in abundance, built on the site of the ancient moat. The Charles Bridge (1357-1507), with 16 arches, towers of

282 AUSTRIA. Carlsbad.— Fbanzensbad.

defence (on one of which the heads of the Pro- testant nobles were exposed for 10 years), and 30 statues of saints, crosses the Moldau to the splendid Radetzky Monument (made from Italian cannon) and the Jesuit Ch. On the rocky heights above is the marvellous Hradschin, where stands the Cathedral (1344-85), contain- ing the marble and alabaster mausoleum (1589) of the Bohemian kings ; the tombs of St. Adal- bert, St. Vitus, St. Wenzel. and several Scla- vor'c kings, and many rare mosaics and paint- ing.:. The great Imperial Palace (open daily. 11-1, ^ kr.) contains, portraits, ancient halls, and the Council Chamber from which the imperial councillors were thrown, causing the Thirty Years' War. In the Sternberg Palace is a col- lection of 350-400 paintings (open daily). The vast Czernian Palace is now a barrack. Near it is a Capuchin monastery, with a chapel copied after the Casa Santa at Loretto. Higher up is the wealthy and imposing Abbey of Strahov, with the tombs of St. Norbert and Gen. Pappen- heim, a painting by Dtirer, a fine library, and splendid views over Prague, the Moldau plain, and the Giant Mts. Below the Belvedere, an imperial villa (1536) with Bohemian historical frescos, are Wallenstein's Palace (1636) and the 'Nostltz Palace, containing 400 paintings.

Carlsbad (Savoy; Bristol; Pupp; Konigsvilla: Imperial; 'Sational; Hopfenstock ; Kroh; An- gers), 0-7 hrs. W. of Prague, is visited by over 20.000 yearly, who find the sulphur and saline waters beneficial, and pretty scenery of Tepl glens and pine woods very charming.

Franzensbad (Post; Bristol; Grand; Konigs- villa; Hilhner) is a watering-place with 14

AUSTRIA. Teplitz.— Vienna. 283

carbonated iron springs, visited by 15,000 persons annually. Walk through the Wandelhahn, a cov- ered walk near the Kurhaus, lined with shops ; see the Statue of Emperor Francis I., that of the Empress Elizabeth, and the Goethe Fountain.

Teplitz (Zum alien Rathatis; Kronprins; Ru- dolf), 3-4 hrs. from Dresden, 4-5 hrs. from Prague, another famous watering-place, with warm alkaline springs, used for bathing. Scen- ery is mountainous, picturesque; and ruined castles, hill-top inns, and rich abbeys abound. From Prague to Munich is a ride of 11-12 hrs. (38 mks. 90 pf., 30 mks. 60 pf., 21i mks.). From Prague you can go to Vienna by night-train (217 M. ; 8-10 hrs. ; fares, 18 mks. 70 pf ., 13 mks. 70 pf.), via Tabor and Gmiind. Berlin to Breslau and Vienna, 18-20 hrs. Dresden to Znaim and Vienna, 14 hrs.

Vienna.

Hotels. — Imperial; Sacher; Grand; Bristol; Metropole; Kaiser in Elizabeth; Residenz; Meissl; Kratn; (in the suburbs). Continental, Leopoldstadt ;Kummer, Mariahilf ; Holler, Neu- bau.

Restaurants. — Vienna is an expensive town, and a few hints may be useful. There is no obliga- tion to take more than first breakfast in hotels where you lodge. Sachers, near the Opera ; Hopfer; Hartman; Lehner; Bellaria; Drchcr's, close to Opera, and some of the cafe-restaurants on the Ring, are good. The Viennese sup from 9 to 11 ; and tbe traveller should not fail to take supper in one of the concert-halls, frequented by good society. Table-d'hote is not general. Good

284 AUSTRIA. Vienna.

dinners can be had at the restaurants, at fixed prices. Austrian wines most in use are Voslauer (red) and Gumpoldsliirchener (white). The Hungarian wines are Erlauer, Carlowitzer, and Ofener (red) ; and Tokayer and Ruster (white).

Carriages (2-horse), 1 K. 20 h. for drive within the city limits ; 60 h. per quarter hour ; 1-horse, 80 li. an hr. Drivers expect liberal gratuity. Street-Cars, with smoking-compart- ments, run around the Ring, the Franz-Joseph- Quai, and across the Aspern Bridge to the Prater (fare, 14 h.). The railway termini are all joined by a circular connecting line.'

The capital of Austria and Hungary, with up- wards of 2,000,000 inh., stands on a mountain- walled plain near the Danube River, and is one of the handsomest, most enterprising, and most interesting of European cities. Vienna was first a Celtic village ; then a Roman fort, where Mar- cus Aurelius died (180) ; left a desolation by the Huns ; made a fief of the empire by Charle- magne ; occupied by the Duke of Austria in 1156 ; enriched by the Crusades ; fortified in 1251 ; oc- cupied by the Hapsburgs in 1276; besieged by the Turks in 1529 and 1683; occupied by the French in 1805 and 1809; and in the power of Prussia in 1866.

The Cathedral of St. Stephan, in the centre of Vienna, was built of limestone in 1300-1510, and restored in 1860. The nave is 354 ft. long and 89 feet high ; and its rich groined roof rests on huge pillars, adorned with 100 statuettes. See the old imperial burial-vault, the tomb of Prince Eu- gene of Savoy, the stone pulpit (1512), the sar- cophagus in the Thekla Choir, the carved choir- stalls, and the stained windows. Great cata-

AUSTRIA. Vienna. 285

combs beneath. On the outside, see Giant's, Eagle's, and Bishop's Doors, tomb of the Meister- sanger, pulpit of Capistranus, and Heathen tow- ers. The tower is 453 ft. high (40 h.), and the guides point out thence the battle-fields of Wag- ram and Essling. At the corner of the Karntner- Strasse the chief business and shopping street, is the Stock am Eiseti, a pine-tree stump full of nails driven on account of an ancient custom. In theGrabenis the Trinity Column ( 1693 ), raised to commemorate the cessation of the plague in 1679. The Kohlmarkt is a street of shops, leading to the Imperial Palace. The Ring is the magnifi- cent boulevard, 165 ft. wide and 2 M. long, which (with the Quay on the Danube Canal) surrounds the inner town, and occupies the place of the old ramparts and glacis. Beginning at the Aspern Bridge, is passes between the great barracks and the Custom House. The next section, the 8teul)en-Ring, passes the handsome new Art- History Museum (open 9-4, 60 h.), with 9 rooms, crowded with choice works in gold, brass, iron, ivory, bronze, tapestry, leather, etc., and paint- ings and statuary. This German S. Kensington is joined by a corridor to the TecJinical School, near which is a statue of Pallas Athene. The Park-Ring runs between the pretty Stadt Park, and the Horticultural Palace, behind which are the splendid modern palaces of the Duke of Co- 'burg and the Archduke William. The Koloirrat- Ring passes the Casino (the club of the nobility) and the Gothic Academic Gymnasium. From the Schioartzenherg-Platz, with its monument and ducal palaces, the Kdrntner-Ring passes the Im- perial and Grand Hotels, the beautiful building of the Musical Union, and the Renaissance Ar-

286 AUSTRIA. Vienna.

tists' House (exhibitions of paintings). The busy Opera-Ring leads by the magnificent Opera House, with sumptuous frescos and decorations; and the Palace of the Archduke Albert, in which is the Albertina (open Mon. and Thurs., 9-2), a collection of 40,000 books, 200,000 engravings, and hundreds of drawings by Raphael, Rubens, Diirer, etc. The Burg-Ring is between the huge new buildings of the Imperial Museums and the Imperial Palace. The Franzens-Ring passes the Volksgarten, a popular park, with a temple con- taining Canova's Theseus. Near it is the su- perb Votive Ch., commemorating the Emperor's escape from assassination in 1853, and adorned with twin spires, 345 ft. high, abounding in stat- ues and wonderful stained windows. Near by is the Allgemeines Krankenhaus, an enormous group of hospitals unsurpassed in Europe; and the great new buildings of the University, the Gothic Rathhaus, the Courts of Justice, the Hof- burg Theatre, the Military Ofiices, and the classic Parlifiment House. The Schotten-Ring contains the Exchange, a new Renaissance structure, the vast Police Office, and the Stiftungshaus erected on the site of the Ring Theatre, which was burned with great loss of life in 1881 ; it leads to tlie Danube Canal.

The Hofburg, or Imperial Palace, the home of Austria's sovereigns for 6 centuries, is a vast and irregular group of buildings, with a laby- rinth of courts, gates, and corridors. See the magnificent Knights' Hall, in the Residenz ; the apartments of Maria Theresa ; the Riding- School; the Guard-House (military music daily, at 1) ; the Augustinian Ch., with its monuments; the Hofgarten ; and the statues of Francis I.,

AUSTRIA. Vienna. 287

Joseph II., the Archduke Charles, Prince Eu- gene, etc. The Imperial Library (open daily, 9-4) contains 1,000,000 vols., 30,000 MSS., and 350,000 engravings. The Natural-History and Mineral Cabinet s are very interesting. The Treasury (open free Tues. and Sat., 10-1 ; 1 K. Thurs. 11-2; special permit Mon. and Fri. 10-12) is the most interesting in Europe, and contains the entire regalia of Austria, coronation robes, jewel-studded decorations, jewelry, caskets of gold, silver, and crystal. Napoleon I.'s regalia as King of Italy, the sabre of Haroun-al-Raschid. the crown and sword of Charlemagne, the lance which pierced the Saviour's side, etc. Among the jewels is the Florentine diamond 133 1/3 carats.

The homely Capuchin Ch. contains the Im- perial Vault (open daily; gratuity for the poor), where you may see the coffins in which lie Maria Theresa, Marie Louise, Maximilian of Mexico, and other sovereigns. Near by is the Imperial Printing-office (open Tues. and Fri., 9-12). The University (4,000 students) is in the Franzens- Ring.

The suburban Lichtenstein Palace (open daily, 9-6 has a gallery of 1,600 paintings, with many remarkable works of Rubens and Van Dyck. The Schonborn Palace (Hon., Wed., and Fri., 9-3) has a famous collection of pictures: the Harrach Palace (Wed. and Sat., 10-4) con- tains 400 interesting paintings ; and the Czernin Palace contains some 350 pictures with many ex- cellent Flemish and Dutch canvasses. There are many very interesting ancient and modern chs., In Vienna, many palaces, and civic and na- tional institutions, monuments, squares, and

288 AUSTRIA. Schonbrun.

bridges, which should be seen. See also Museum of Austrian Ethnography (9-4, 1 K., Sun. and holidays free). Museum of Natural History (Sun. and Thurs. 9-1, Mon. 1-5, Wed. and Sat. 9-3, 1 K., Tues and Fri. closed), and the Vienna Historical Museum (Sun., Tues., Thurs., 9-2, 2- K.)

The Belvedere, an Imperial residence, built in 1693-1724, and once inhabited by Prince Eugene of Savoy, has a beautiful French garden. Its gallery formerly contained about 1,500 paintings, including a remarkable collection of early Italian and Venetian works, and Durer's world-renowned "Trinity," all of which were removed to the Im- perial Art Museum in 1891. The other of the two buildings forming the Belvedere, known as the Lower Belvedere, contained the famous Am- bras collection, removed in 1889 to the Art- History Museum. It contains now a gallery of modern paintings. Near by is the vast Arsenal, with the richly frescoed Hall of Fame, and thousands of military relics and trophies of the Turkish, French, Swedish, and Italian wars. Here also are great barracks, gun-factory, and cannon-foundry.

The Prater is an immense forest-park on the E. (laid out in 1766), with cafes, band-music, theatres, and avenues. On May and June after- noons the fashionable world of Austria may be seen driving in the Haupt-Allee. Wurstel Prater is the part frequented by the humbler classes. In the cemetery of Wahring, li M. N. W. of the city, Beethoven, Schubert, and Grillparzer are buried; Mozart lies at St. Marx, and Gluck at Matzleinsdorf.

Schonbrunn is a splendid suburban imi)erial

AUSTRIA. ScHONBRUN. 289

residence, where Napoleon I. had his headquar- ters, and where his son died (1832). Beautiful gardens, fountains, statuary, asd flowers. On the W. are the villas of Hietzing, Laxenburg (f hr. by rly.) is another imperial chateau (built in 1377), with many interesting halls and monuments. The Kahlenberg, N. of Vienna, overlooks the Danube plain, the Carpathi'ans, and the Styrian Alps. There are many other lovely excursions in the environs.

S. EUROPE. Presburg. 293

SOUTHEASTERN EUROPE.

THIS interesting region is easily reached from Vienna, whence steamers descend the Danube to Pest in 12-13 hrs. (starting at 6.30 A. M.; fares, 12 K., 7 K. 50 h.). Pest to Vienna, by rly., 7-8 hrs. (fares 30 K. 14 h., 19 K. 70 h. by express). The steamer passes Loljau island, where Napoleon and 150,000 soldiers, with 700 cannon, were encamped in 1809 ; and the castles of Deutsch-AItenhurg, Hainburg, and Thehen; and in 2i hrs. reaches Presburg (Grw- ner Baum; Konig von JJngarn), the former capital (78,000 inh.), on the foot-hills of the little Carpathians. In the Cathedral (1090) the Hungarian kings were crowned. Before it is a statue of St. Martin. See the Ratliliaus (1288) ; the beautiful Franciscan Gh. (1293) ; and the Museums. From the ruins of the imperial pal- ace, on the Schlossberg, there is a lovely view over the villages and vineyards. Beautiful ex- cursions in the vicinity.

Below Presburg the shores are flat. Komorn, or Komaron is a powerful fortress (24.0U0 in- hab.) ; Gran, or Esztergom (10,000 inhab.) has lofty-domed cathedral ; Viscgrdd, a venerable fortress, ruined by the Turks.

Budapest (Grand Hotel Hungaria; Queen of England; Royal; Bristol; Continental; Fiume, Lucashad in Buda ; Margaretenhad, on the island) has 880,000 inhabitants. It is the capital of Hungary, and is a handsome modern city, next only to Vienna in importance in the empire-kingdom, The beautiful modern Renaissance Academy (Sun., Tues., Fri., 10-L30, free; other times 1 K.) contains a library and botanical collection, and has many Hungarian land- scapes and historical paintings. The Natiotial Museum (inquire regarding adm., as the dif- ferent collections are on view at different times, sometimes free, sometimes 1 K.) is rich in Ro- man, Transylvanian, and Hungarian antiquities, and has a natural history collection and a li- brary and waiting room. The magnificent Moro- Romanesque Recloiite Buildings contain ball- rooms, concert halls, assembly rooms, etc. The new Museum of Fine Arts (10-1.30 free; after- noon 1 K.) contains the great National (formerly Esterhazy) Gallery with 900 paintings, 22,000 drawings, and about 75,000 engravings, and also a collection of modern pictures. See the Indus- trial Art Museum with exterior colored orna- mentation in Magyar style ; the House of Parlia- merit; the Palace of Justice; the Rathaus; the Opera House; the new Royal Agricultural Museum in the Varosliget Park ; the Post Office; the promenades along the Danube; the statues of Stefan Szechenyl, Joseph von Eotvos, Arch- duke Joseph, Franz Deak, Alexander Petofi, Semmelweiss (the discoverer, after Oliver Wen- dell Holmes, of the cause of puerperal fever), and George Vf ashington ; the colossal sculptural bulls in front of the slaughter house ; the Vdrosliget Park ; the Kerepesi Cemetery with monuments of Kossuth, Batthy^ny, Dedk, and others ; the Margarethen - Insel, a pretty island - park (cafes and military music) ; and various new national buildings. A splendid suspension-

S. EUROPE. Belgeade. 293

bridge and other bridges connect Pest and Buda (Ofen). The latter was once a Roman colony, and for 150 years a Turkish town. See the Royal Palace, the great modern fortress, and St. Mat- thius Church. There are famous baths in Ofen, founded by the Turks, near one of which is a mosque.

Steamers from Pest to Orsova, 50 hours, a superb trip, passing Mohdcs, where the Turks conquered Hungary (1526) ; Neusatz, sl fortified modern town; Peterivardein, where Peter the Hermit preached the First Crusade; Carlowitz, and Semlin, where is Hunyadi's castle.

Belgrade (Hotel de Paris; Moscow), the capi- tal of Servia, has 40,000 inhab., formerly a quaint Oriental town, with narrow streets curving un- der a fortress-crowned rock. Modern improve- ments have widened the streets and numbered the houses after western models. The Kalemeg- don Park is interesting and affords fine view.

Baziasch, 4-5 hrs. below, is the end of the ry. from Pest. Travelers come down this way and take steamer at Baziasch, where the Danube en- ters the magnificent scenery of the Carpathians. On the right, in this tremendous defile, is the ruined fortress of Golultacz, and ancient Roman forts. At Brencava the rapids are entered. Ser- via is on the r., Hungary on the 1. Through the Defile of Kasan the river is 500-600 ft. wide, be- tween immense rocky cliffs. Trajan's Roman road is on the r. bank ; and his inscription, com- memorating the Dacian campaign, is near the end.

Orsova (Kdnig von TJngarn; Ozanic) is a pretty Wallachian village, just above the famous Iron Gates, where the Danube plunges through

294 S. EUROPE. Bucharest.

a rocky canon 1^ M. long. A rly. runs from Pest to Orsova (305 M.), by Temesvar (Hun- garia; Kronprinz), an old walled town of 72,- 000 inhab. From Vienna to Bucharest by this favorite route, 29-30 hrs. (fares, 174 fr. 80 c, 131i fr. ; the Roumanian currency is like that of France).

Fares from Vienna 49 K. 80 h., 30 K. 40 h. by express in 7 hours to Cracow {Grand; Saxe), once the capital of Poland, annexed to Austria in 1846. Here is a fine cathedral, with the tombs of the Polish kings ; and a huge mound made of earth, erected by the people in honor of Kosci- uszko. Fares, 41 K. 70 h., 25 K. 50 h. by ex- press in 5| hrs. to Lemberg {Hotel de France; George; de VEurope), the capital of Galicia, with 207,000 inhab. and a large university. Fare from Budapest to Bucharest on the Orient Ex- press 99 fr. 25 c, time 20 hours.

Bucharest {Hotel Boulevard; Capsa; Eras- cati), the capital of the kingdom of Roumania, "the Paris of the East," has 315,000 inhab., and ' is a semi-Oriental town, divided into the Yellow, Red, Green, Black, and Blue districts, or wards. See the Palace, Theatre, War-Office, Univer- sity, the Ch. and Monastery of Radu Vod (1572), the parks, the equestrian statue of Michael III., and some of the chs.

Vienna to Gratz and Trieste.

Leaving Vienna at 7 a.m., one reaches Trieste in 11-12 hrs. (fares, 61 K. 20 h., 42 K. 90 h.), crossing the Semmering Pass by a wonderfully picturesque rly., with 30 tunnels and viaducts. Semmering stat. is 2,892 ft. above the sea ; and here the rly. passes through the crowning ridge by a tunnel 1 M. long, and descends through the

S. EUROPE. Gratz.— Trieste. 295

narrow Styrian valleys by Bruck, where the rly. to Venice diverges, and by a score of castles, to

Gratz (Elephant; Daniel; Wiesler; Steirer- liof), the capital of Styria (150,000 inhab.), a pretty, well-situated, and growing town, where many retired Austrian officers live. The Castle is 400 ft. above Gratz, and commands a grand view. See the Hall of the Styrian Estates, the Cathedral (1446), the Imperial Mausoleum, and the Johanneum Palace, with its library and pic- ture-gallery.

Beyond Gratz the line traverses a picturesque mt. region, full of historical interest. At Stein- briick a branch diverges to Agram, the capital of Croatia. Farther on is Laibach, the capital of Carniola, with a fine castle and cathedral ; and Adelsberg {Grand Hotel Adelsherg; Krone), whence the famous Stalactite Caverns (one mile west of the town) may be visited. The long zig- zag descent to the Adriatic gives many splendid views.

Trieste (Hotel de la Ville; Eoccelsior Palace; Delorme ; Aquila Xera; Central), chief Aus- trian port (250,000 inhab.), is an Italian city in sentiment and appearance, beautifully situated on a fortified harbor, and visited by 14,000 ves- sels yearly. It has a venerable cathedral, a sumptuous Greek ch., a tall Armenian ch., a far- viewing Capuchin monastery (with castle above), a Ghetto (Jews' quarter), many palaces, and several statues. The Tergestenm is a vast com- mercial building, headquarters of the Austrian Lloyds. The Piazzetta di Ricardo commemo- rates the imprisonment of Richard Coeur de Lion here. Beautiful drives on the St. Andrea Corso, to Miramar, the palace of Maximilian of Mexico ;

296 S. EUROPE. Salzburg.

and to Prosecco, of whose wine Virgil spoke, Ohelisco, and the Grotta Gigante.

Steamers run from Trieste down the Istrian and Dalmatian coasts to Zara, Spalatro, Ragusa, Cattaro, Pola, and Fiume ; and to the Ionian and Greek ports, and Constantinople ; also to Venice. Rly. to Venice.

The Upper Danube, Salzburg, etc.

This region is full of beauty and picturesque- ness. The descent by steamer from Linz to Vienna requires 8-9 hrs. (9 K. 40 h., 5 K. 20 h.) ; ascent, 18-20 hrs. The route to N. Germany is by rly. to Linz and Munich. Rly. from Vienna is 117 M. (3i-7 hrs. ; express fares 22 K. 60 h., 13 K. SOh.), by Melk, with its ancient Benedictine monastery ; and Enns, once strongly fortified with the ransom paid by England for Richard Coeur de Lion, and 3 M. from the great Augu»- tinian Abbey of 8t. Florian; to

Linz (Erzherzog Carl; GoUlner Adler), the capital of Upper Austria (70,000 inhab.), a pretty town, with a museum, castle and Capu- chin ch. 78 miles S. W. (express in 3 hrs., fare 15 K. 60 h., 9 K. 50 h.) is

Salzburg (Hotel de VEurope; Mirahell; Au- triche; Nelhock; Munchnerhof), one of the most beautiful towns in Germany, with an Italian beauty in its flat-roofed houses, fountains, and marble fagades, and environs of far-famed pic- turesqueness ; 40,000 inhab. The Palace, Cathe- dral, and Government buildings are in the old quarter. Here is Mozart's birthplace, his house, his statue, and a collection of his MSS. ; also the Ch. and Cemetery of St. Peter, and

S. EUROPE. IscHL. 297

the Benedictine Abbey with the cellar where Haydn used to enjoy his wine. See the Museum, the Franciscan Church, the impos- ing Fortress of Ho1ien-Salzl)urg, and the High and woody Monchsderg; 250 stone steps lead to the monastery on the Capiizijier'berg. The house of Paracelsus is near the river. The palace of Miralyell, Prince Schwartzenberg's chateau of Aigen, and the imperial villa of HeWrunn, are near by.

Railway (66 M., 2^-5 hrs. ; express fare 13 K. 10 h., 8 K.) to Bad Gastein {StrauMnger : Ga- steiner Hof; Badeschloss; Kaiserhof; Hirsch; Weismayr; Germania), whose warm springs at- tract thousands of nervous, gouty, and debili- tated folk. Beautiful hill-country, abounding in high waterfalls.

The Salzkammergut, or "Austrian Switzer- land," in w^hich the Government has great salt- mines, covers 250 square M. between Salzburg and Styria, and has the finest scenery in Ger- many, sequestered green valleys, crystal lakes, and far-viewing mts. Railway (42 M., 2i hrs. ; fare 8 K. 50 h. ) from Salzburg to the fashionable watering-place of Ischl (Kaiset'in Elizabeth; Bauer; Post; Kaiserkrone; Austria; Victoria), near the centre of the. Alpine region, with splen- did villas of the Emperor and many nobles. Mud baths and whey baths here. Grand excursions in every direction. From Vienna to Ischl (rail- way in 6 hrs., fare 34 K. 50 h., 21 K. 10 h.) to Gmunden (passing near the Traun Falls), a quiet little summer-resort on the Traun See, the most beautiful of German lakes. Here one may break the railway journey, if desired, for an hour's sail (9 miles) by steamer, amid grand lake

298 S. EUROPE. Munich.

and mt. scenery, to E'bensee, a small town with extensive salt works ; thence to Ischl.

Between Salzburg and Munich ry. traverses a picturesque mt. region.

Munich and the Tyrol.

Munich {Bayrischer Hof; Rnssischer Hof; Rheinischer Hof; Regina-Palast ; Vier Jahres- zeiten; Continental; Englischer Hof; Wagner; Europdischer Hof; Deut seller Kaiser; Griin- wald; Park), the capital of Bavaria (560,000 inhab.), is on the Isar river, on a broad, lofty, and barren plain. The climate is variable, and almost severe. Living is cheap, and furnished rooms may be had reasonably for a stay of 2-4 weeks. The Royal Palace (adm. 10.45 daily), an imitation of the Pitti Palace, contains magni- ficent frescos from the Odyssey and the Nie- belungenlied, and from the lives of Charlemagne, Barbarossa, and the Hapsburgs ; and, in the Throne-Room, Schwanthaler's grand statues of 12 Wittelsbach princes. In the adjacent Old- Residence (1600-16) is the sumptuous Royal Chapel (open 9.30-11, 2-4; also the Treasury (Mon., Wed., and Fri., 9-11, 1 mark), with the Bavarian regalia, the great blue diamond, and the crowns of Bohemia (captured in 1620), and of the Emperor Henry II. and the Empress Cuni- gunda (1010), and the Reiche Kapelle (Mon. and Wed., 9-11, 2 marks) containing rich ecclesias- tical objects. The Festsaalbau, with noble por- tico and statues, fronts on the Hofgarten, around which run richly frescoed Arcades, containing the Ethnographical Museum and the Art Union The Hof-Theatre, adorned with many fine stat- ues, is the largest in Germany.

S. EUROPE. Murs'iCH. 299

To the east of the palace is the Bavarian Military Museum (9.30-12.30, 8-5, ex. Sat. ; Mon., Wed, and Thurs., 1 mark, Tues. and Fri. free), with elaborately ornamented cannon in front. The Bavarian National Museum (9-4, ex. Mon. ; Sun. and Wed. free, other days 1 mark), in the Prinz-Regenten Street contains collections of great historical interest of industrial art, mediaeval Christian art, and modern art; textiles, armor, ceramics ; old MSS. and specimens of early print- ing.

The Ludwigs-Strasse runs from the Hall of Generals to Gate of Victory, a triumphal arch erected by Ludwig I. to the Bavarian army, with statutes and reliefs, and surmounted by a bronze Bavaria, in a chariot drawn by lions. On and near this street are the Odeon Concert-hall ; the Theatine Church, with the royal tombs ; the equestrian statue of Ludwig I. ; the War Office ; the Royal Library (8-1, 3-8 daily; closed Sun. and Sat. afternoon), — a Florentine building with fine statues and an imposing stairway, 1,000,- 000 vols., 50,000 MSS., and literary curiosities,— the Codex Aureus, Alaric's breviary, the prayer- books of Diirer and Emperor Lewis, the oldest Niebelungenlied MS., etc. ; the LudKigskirclie, a splendid ch. in Italian style, with Cornelius's Last Judgment and other frescos ; and a great square, with statues, bounded by ' the Priests' Seminary, the Max-Joseph School, and the Uni- versity (6,400 students).

Beyond the Gate of Victory (see above) is the Academy of Art, with figures of Castor and Pol- lux at the entrance. From the Max-Joseph Platz (on which are the Theatre, Royal Palace, Post

300 S. EUROPE. Munich.

Office and Max- Joseph's Statue) the handsome Maximilian-Strasse, 1 M. long, runs to the Isar, by the Vier Jahreszeiten Hotel, the Government buildings, a long square with statues, (one of the Massachusetts Count Rumford), and the old Na- tional Museum, to the handsome Maximilianeum civil-service school, adorned with frescos and statuary. The German Museum (9-7, except Tues., 20 pf., with guide, 1 to 3 persons, 6 marks), housed in the old National Museum building and the Heavy Cavalry Barracks, contains a most interesting collection of objects illustrating the history of technical industries — mining, tele- graphy, railroading, aviation, printing, spinning, watchmaking, photography, radiology, acoustics, heating, etc. A permanent home will be made near the cavalry barracks on an island in the Isar River. The huge brick Cathedral (1468-88) is 118 ft. high inside, and has towers 357 ft. high, and 30 windows 72 ft. high, several monu- ments, and a captured Turkish flag. St. Mich- ael's Ch. has a noble dome, and Thorwaldsen's monument to Engene Beauharnais, viceroy of Italy. The AllerheUigenkirclie is a magnificent Byzantine ch., rich in colored marbles and fres- cos on gold ground. St. Boniface, an imitation of a 5th-century basilica, is a very beautiful 4- aisled ch., with round arches supported by 66 monolithic columns of gray Tyrolese marble, gilded roof-timbers, royal tombs, and many fres- cos by Hess. The statue of Maximilian I. was designed by Thorwaldsen, and made of captured Turkish cannon. Near it is the mediaeval Wit- telsbacJi Palace.

The Academy of Science, in the old Jesuits College, has vast collections of fossils, minerals,

S. EUROPE. Munich. 301

coins, casts, etc. See also the statues of Schiller, Gluck, Orlando di Lasso, and Max Emanuel ; the Marian. Column (1638) ; the Obelisk, 100 ft. high, of captured gun-metal, to 30,000 Bava- rians who died in the Russian war; the ancient and imposing Isar and Neuhauser Gates ; the great bronze-foundry, with collection of models (daily, 1-6) ; the Museum of Schwanthaler's works ; the great beer-gardens and breweries (es- pecially the Hofbrauhaus on a street leading from the Maximilian-Strasse) ; and the splendid arcaded cemetery.

The Old Pinakothek (open daily, except Sat., 9-4) is a vast Renaissance structure, adorned with 24 statues of famous artists, and with a long arcade frescoed by Cornelius with scenes from the history of mediaeval art. The Museum contains 1,100 paintings, including fine works of Raphael, C^orreggio, Titian, Holbein, Diirer, and Rubens. On the ground floor, 300,(X)0 engrav- ings, 9,(X)0 drawings, and cabinets of Greek and Etruscan vases (catalogue, 1 mark, illustrated 4* marks). The New Pinakothek (open free Sun., Tues., Thurs., and Sat, 9-4, Mon., Wed., Fri., 1 mark 9-2), frescoed outside from Kaulbach's de- signs, contains 900 modern paintings (mostly of the Munich school) by Kaulbach, Overbeck, etc. The Glyptothek (free Mon., Wed. and Fri., 9-2, other days and hours, 1 mark, is a handsome Ionic building, with 12 richly frescoed vaulted halls, enshrining Egyptian, Greek, Latin, and modern sculptures, and choice works of Canova, Thor- waldsen, Dannecker, etc. Opposite is the Cor- inthian Ecrhihition Building, where new Munich pictures are exhibited and sold every summer ; and N. W. is the famous Stained-Olass Institn-

802 S. EUROPE. Ober-Ammergau.

tion. The Propylaea Gate in the Konigz-Platz is a splendid copy of the gateway to the Acro- polis at Athens, built in 1862, and adorned with sculptures. To the west of this gate is the Scliack Gallery (10-2, Sun., 11-1, closed Thurs., Mon. 1 mark, other days free), containing ex- cellent collection of the works of modern Ger- man authors.

The English Garden, laid out by Count Rum- ford, begins at the Royal Palace, and runs N. four miles. You can drive through it to the Ob- servatory, 1* M. A little over a mile outside the Carlsthor is the Hall of Fame, a Doric colon- nade containing busts of 80 national celebrities. Here stands the bronze Statue of Bavaria, 56 ft. high. Ascend into its head, whence there is a fine view. The royal chateau and deer-park Nymphenburg and the Porcelain factory are 3 M. W. of Munich. The Lake of Starnberg (15 M. ; rly. in 1 hr.) 12^x3 M. in area, has fine mt. views, villas of wealthy Munichers, and several chateaux.

Operas at Hof und National-Theatre (prices low). Sun., Mon., Thurs. and Fri., except in July (open, as usual in Germany, at 6.80 or 7). Good classical music on Sun. at St. Michael's, the Court church.

Ober-Ammergau may be reached comfortably from Munich by way of Murnau, passing the ancient abbey of Ettal and up the Ammerthal. This is a pleasant summer-journey among Ba- varian mts. and lakes, and into the country of the Passion Play. See local guides.

Through the Tyrol to Italy. — From Salzburg to Innsbruck one must pass through Bavaria, change cars, and submit to the examination of

S. EUROPE. Innsbruck. .303

baggage. The rly. leads by Rosenheim to Kuf- stein {Drei Koniger ; Egger; Post), an ancient fortress commanding the Tyrolese frontier; and up the beautiful valley of the Inn ; by busy and picturesque old Schwaz, among rich iron and copper mines; and Hall, whose ch. has a picture by Diirer.

From Vienna to Innsbruck by express in 12 hrs. (58 K., 37 K.).

Innsbruck (Hotel cle VEurope; Tirol; Kayser; Krekl; Hahshiirger), the capital of the Tyrol 54,000 inh.), is beautifully situated in the midst of mts., 6-8,000 ft. high, whose peaks seem to overhang its streets. On the wooden bridge which gives name to the town, Hofer's Tyrolese riflemen thrice defeated Napoleon's Bavarians in the War of Independence (1809). The body of Hofer, the innkeeper who led the Tyrol in arms against the French for 14 years, and was shot by Napoleon at Mantua, now lies in the Silver Chapel of Innsbruck's Franciscan Ch.. under a splendid monument. In the same ch. is the monument (1513-83) of the Emperor Maximilian I., a bronze statue kneeling on a sarcophagus, and surrounded by 28 royal bronze statues and 24 exquisite historical reliefs, in marble (which the sacristan uncovers and explains). Queen Christina of Sweden abjured Protestantism in this ch. in 1654. See also the Palace, built by Maria Theresa; the Golden Roof; the Univer- sity; the Triumphant Arch; the interesting Museum Ferdinancleum ; the Relief Map of the Ty^rol, made of stones, at the Normal School ; the ancient Capuchin Monastery ; the wealthy Ahhey of WiUen; and the fine old castle of Ambras

304 S. EUROPE. Teent.

(13th century), now a museum (daily ex. Mon. 9-12, 2-5, 40 h.. Sun. and holidays free).

From Innsbruck to Verona, by express in 4 hrs. (fare 40 K. 65 h.)

The rly. ascends the Lill valley, and crosses the Brenner Pass, 4,495 ft. high, the water-shed between the Adriatic and Black Seas. At the fortress of Franzensfeste trains stop for meals. From Sterzing the glaciers of the Stubbaythal are visible. Then comes semi-Italian Brixen, an ancient ecclesiastical capital, with many chs. and cloisters; Bozen {Hotel Victoria; Kaiser- krone; Bristol), frequented by invalids^ and in one of the finest Tyrolese glens. Railway thence (20 M. ; 3 K. 40 h. ; round trip, 5 K. 60 h.) to Meran (Palast; Bristol; Savoy; Grand; Kaiser- hof; Tiroler), a winter resort, 1045 ft. eleva- tion, with dry climate and many sunny days ; and also in summer a grape-cure station. There are many delightful walks and some beautiful views here, etc. ; mountain-girdled Trent {Im- perial; Europa), once an Etruscan town, known to Strabo and Ptolemy, and now rich in old tow- ers, ruined castles, marble palaces, a grand 13th- century cathedral, and the Ch. of Sta. Maria Maggiore, where the celebrated Council of Trent held its sessions, 1545-63 ; and Roveredo, on the Adige. Beyond, the line runs through a region familiar to Dante, entering Italy beyond Ala.

Stoitzerland may be reached directly from Munich, by rly. to Lindau, whence boat across Lake Constance to Romanshorn, and rly. to Zu- rich, We recommended the tourist, however, to go on from Munich to Augsburg and Stutt- gart, with a detour to Nuremberg, Baireuth,

S. EUROPE. Ulm.— Stuttgart. 305

etc. ; and from Nuremberg or Wiirzburg to Heid- elberg.

Augsburg, Stuttgart, Nuremberg, Heidelberg.

Rly, in 1^-2 hrs. from Munich to Augsburg (Kaiserhof ; Drei Kronen; Drei Mohren, a very ancient hotel, in which Charles V. was enter- tained), once a free imperial town of vast wealth, and the centre of trade between Germany and the Levant, now has 100,000 inhab. There re- main many picturesque old houses, frescoed out- side; the ancient Palace in which the Augsburg Confession was given; the venerable chs. of St. Anna and St. Ulrich ; the Rathhaus (1616-20), with its Golden Hall ; the rambling Gothic Cathe- dral (995), with handsome cloisters; and the frescoed Fuggerhaus, the home of the richest mer- chants of 16th-century Europe. See also the fountains, the Arsenal, the Museum, and the gallery of Suabian pictures. It is 2-3 hrs. to

Ulm (Miinster; Bahnlwf; Russischer Hof; Goklener Lowe; Baumstark), a fortress of Wiirt- emberg (55,000 inh.), on the Danube. The Gothic Cathedral (1377) has immense organ, finely carved oaken stalls, and a nave 137 ft. high. Grand view of the Alps from the tower (528 ft. high). Rly. to Lake Constance in 4-5 hrs. Rly. from Ulm across Wtirtemberg (2}-4 hrs.) to

Stuttgart {Marquardt ; Victc/ria; Royal; Sil- her; Dierlamm) capital of Wtirtemberg (260,000 inhab.), beautifully situated among the hills and vineyards, and the home of a large Anglo-Ameri- can colony. The Konigsbau (Royal Palace) has an Ionic colonnade and Corinthian porticos. Op-

306 S. EUROPE. Nuremberg.

posite, across the Schloss-Platz, is the new Pal- ace (174&-1807), containing very fine sculptures (open daily, 9-6). Near by are the Theatre and the Old Palace (1553-70) ; also the Stiftskirche (1436-95), with statues of 11 Counts of Wurt- emberg; Thorwaldsen's statue of Schiller; and various national buildings. The Royal Library (open daily, except Sat. and Sun., 11-12, 3-4, 20 pf.) contains 500,000 vols., 3,800 MSS., and a collection of national antiquities ; and the Museum of Art (open 10-1, 2-4, Sun.,Tues., Wed., Fri., free; other days and hours, 50 pf.) has a collection of pictures and statuary. The K6- nigs-Strasse and Neckar-Strasse are the chief streets. There are small but interesting museums, and good schools. The Museum of Bad Taste, where all sorts of monstrosities in furniture, house decorations, jewelry, etc., are shown, is well worth a visit. Charming views from the Hasenberg, Uhlandshohe, and Schillers- hohe. Visit Stadt-Gartefi. The Anlagen park, decorated with statues, extends over 2 M., to Cannstadt (BahnJiof), on the Neckar, with wann saline and chalybeate springs, much frequented by invalids. It is now united in one city with Stuttgart. See the Royal Villa, the Rosenstein, and other villas on the heights ; also the Kursaal and the Wilhelma. The grave of Freiligrath is here. There are several other notable excur- sions to be made from Stuttgart.

From Augsburg or from Stuttgart, via Crails- heim and Anshach, go to

Nuremberg {^Wurtemhergerhof ; Grand; Wit- telshacli; Victaria; Deutscher Kaiser), a delighl- ful old town 300,000 inhabitants), famous for its quaint mediaeval houses, oriel windows, and toy

S EUROPE. Nuremberg. 307

factories, and the centre of trade between North and South Germany. At one time there flour- ished here Veit Stoss, Vischer, and Krafft, the carvers; the teacher and disciples of Albrecht Diirer, and the great master himself ; and Haas Sachs, the cobbler-poet. The latter two are buried in St. John's Cemetery; their houses are religiously kept ; Ranch's statue of Dtirer stands in the Milk Market, and Hans Sachs's monu- ment is in the Spital-Platz. The lofty wall which encircles Nuremberg has 75 towers of masonry, the 4 largest of which were built by Unger. Take a walk around these walls, and also note the singular old bridges over the Pegnitz. Peter Vischer is buried at St. Rochiis, and his house is preserved. The finest ch. is St. Laiorence, a red-sandstone structure (1287- 1477), with a splendid W. portal and rose-win- dow, Krafft's wonderful ciborium, 66 ft. high, and Veit Stoss's wood carvings. See fountains outside. In the Goose Market is the ancient bronze fountain-figure of the Little Goose Man. The Liebfrauenkirche has splendid fagade, and rich old glass and works of art inside. On one wall is the clock from which issue every day at noon figures representing the seven Electors sur- rounding Emperor Charles IV.

Opposite is a tall Gothic column (1385-96); sur- rounded with statues of heroes. aS^^. Sebaldus, a 13th-century Gothic basilica, contains rare old paintings, and the famous Shrine of St. Sebaldus, "the most exquisite gem of German art," whose multitude of statues and carvings were made by Vischer and his sons (1506-19). Opposite is St. Maurice, a Gothic chapel restored. St. Epidius (1140) has an altar-piece by Van Dyck. The

308 S. EUROPE. Ratisbon.

Germanic Museum (daily, 10-1, 2-4, 1 mark ; Sun. 10-2, free), in an old Carthusian convent (beau- tiful cloisters), has a fresco by Kaulbach, and many mediaeval relics and pictures. In the old Dominican convent is the Toicn Lihrary (open daily, 9-12, 3-5), with 100,000 vols, and 2,000 MSS. The Burg is a Gothic castle on a rock to the N., built in 1024, and enlarged by Bar- barossa in 1158, destroyed in 1420, and now partially restored. It is rich in ponderous tow- ers, quaint chapels, and antique halls. In main tower (adm. 20 pf.) is a torture chamber, the chief instrument in which is an "Iron Virgin." Beautiful view from here over town and coun- trj\ The Rathhaiis contains many pictures. See also the new law-courts and the Schone Brun-

Ratisbon {Maximilian; Griiner Kranz; Na- tional; KarmelitenJjrdu), called in German Reg- en sbiirg, a very ancient free town, where the Imperial Diet was held from 1663 to 1808, is now Bavarian. There are many mediseval houses, with armorial bearings still upon them, and with towers of defence (especially in Am- bassadors'-St.). The Cathedral (1275) has a rich fagade and porch, lofty towers, and a very symmetrical nave, 129 ft. high ; also, fine monu- ments by Canova and Vischer, an altar of silver, and cloisters. The 12th-century Benedictine Ch. of St. James has strange old sculptures ; and the Benedictine Monastery of St. Emmeran, founded in 652, and enriched by Charlemagne, has since 1812 been the palace of the Princes of Thurn and Taxis. The 14th-century Rathhaus contains many implements of torture.

Seven miles distant (motor-bus, carriage, or

S. EUROPE. Walhalla.— Baireuth. 309

tramway), on a hill over the Danube, is the Walhalla, built 1830-42 (at a cost of $3,400,000) by King Ludwig I. as a Temple of Fame (open 9- 12.30, 2-7 in summer, free.) It resembles the Athenian Parthenon, and is of huge granite blocks, surrounded with 52 Doric columns, and adorned- in the pediments with Schwanthaler's sculptures of the Battles of Leipsic and Armin- ius. The roof is of iron and copper. The in- terior hall, 180x50 ft., decorated with friezes, con- tains 6 Victory statues by Ranch, and 101 busts of illustrious Germans. View of Bavarian For- est and Alps.

Kelheim {Klosterhrdu; Rosengarten) up the Danube, has the huge circular Hall of Liberation, built by King Ludwig I., 1842-63, to commemo- rate the Battle of Leipsic. It is lined with, mar- ble, and contains 34 Victory statues, of Carrara marble ; while outside are 18 colossal statues.

Wiirzburg {Kronprinz von Bayern; Bahnhof; Riissischer Hof) has a vast Royal Palace, a Cathedral (1189-1240), the Neumtinster Ch. (with tomb of Walther von der Vogelweide), the handsome Mariencapelle, and a university. Rly. to Baireuth, by

Bamberg (Bam'berger Hof), a hill-town, with a splendid 12th-century Romanesque Cathedral, rich in monuments and relics. The Royal Li- brary contains 4,500 MSS. and 300.000 volumes. In the Palace, Napoleon I. declared war against Prussia. The rly. runs around the Franconian Switzerland to

Baireuth (Rcichsadler; Post; Goldener Anker), the seat of Wagner's great theatre, and of an old opera house. Jean Paul Richter's house, statue, and tomb are here. See Wagner's

310 S. EUROPE. Heidelberg.

house and grave, the Palaces, the War Monument of 1870-71, and the ducal chateaux of the Ere- mitagc and the Fantaisie (each 3 M. out). Ex- cursions into the Fichtelgebirge.

From Wiirzburg it is 5-7 hrs. to

Heidelberg {Hotel de V Europe; Grand; Lang ; Victoria; Frinz Carl; Schloss; Bcllevue), re- nowned for its history, its learned University, and its beautiful situation, where the mountainous Neckar valley enters the great Rhine plain. The University (founded 1386) has valuable muse- ums, and a library of 400,000 vols. The build- ings are homely. The Castle, 330 ft. above the Neckar, was founded in 1195 and added to by subsequent electors and kings. In 1689 the French Gen. M61ac, forced to retreat thence, burnefl and blew up the castle; and the destruc- tion was completed by lightning in 1764. It is the grandest ruin in Germany. See the splendid Renaissance Otto Heuirichs building (1556) ; Friedrichs building (1601), rich in statues, and containing the great Tun (49,000 gallons) ; and other palaces, towers, and gardens. From the Konigsstuhl, 905 ft. above the castle (1 hr. by road), grand view of the Rhine and Neckar val- leys, the Black Forest, Taunus, and Odenwald, and out to Strassburg Cathedral.

Spires, Worms, Baden, Strassburg.

It is a short ride, down the Neckar valley to

Mannheim {Deiitscher Hof; Pfdlzer Hof;

Park), a town of 200,000 inhab., on the Rhine,

very regularly laid out, and adorned with a great

palace and picture-gallery and several statues..

S. EUROPE. Dabmstadt. 311

Fine rly.-bridge across the Rhine, to Ludwigs- haven. 1 hr. by rly. to the S. is

Spires, German, Speyer (Rheinischer Hof; Wittelshacher Hof), the capital of the Bavarian Palatinate (20,000 inhab.). The vast and im- posing Romanesque Cathedral (open 10-11, 2-6, fee for adm. to choir and crypt, 50 pf.) was founded in 1030, and in 1146 St. Bernhard preached the Crusade in it. 9 German emperors and 3 empresses were buried here. See new fa- gade and Emperor's Hall ; magnificent modern frescos; and the imperial statues by Schwan- thaler. A handsome Memorial Church has re- cently been erected here to commemorate the protests uttered against the decree of the diet of Speyer in 1529, w^hence came the designation "Protestant."

Worms {Alter Kaiser; Hartmann; Kalserhof; Bahnhofs-Hotel), f hr. N. of Ludwigshaven, suc- cessively capital of Burgundian and Franconian kings, and of Charlemagne, is now a quiet Hes- sian town. The splendid Romanesque Cathedral (1110) has 4 towers and 2 domes, and a stately interior, 357 ft. long. On the square occurred events sung of in the Niebelungenlied ; . and on one side is the Renaissance Heylshof, on the site of the Episcopal palace where Luther defended his doctrines before Charles V. and the Diet of Worms (1521). Luther's Monument (built 1859- 68) consists of his colossal statue, around and below which are statues of 6 Reformers, 2 Pro- testant princes, and 3 German cities. It is a grand work.

Darmstadt {Trauhc; Britannia), the hand- some capital of Hesse (83.000 inhab.). has in its Palace a library of 600,000 vols., and a noble

312 S. EUROPE. Carlsruhe.

gallery of 700 paintings (open daily). In the palace on Anna-Strasse is the celebrated Meyer Madonna, by Holbein (1 mk.). The Museum (Tues., Thurs., Sat, 1 mk., Wed. Sun., holi- aays free) contains pictures of the Dutch and German schools, collections of enamels, carving in ivory, etc.

From Heidelberg, 2 hrs. to

Carlsruhe {Gerniania; Victoria; Grilner Hof ; Hotel Grosse), the capital of Baden (140,000 inhab.), with handsome modern buildings, squares, and monuments. The streets radiate like fan-sticks from the handsome Palace and park. The Romanesque Hall of Art (Sun., Wed., Fri., 11-1, 2-4) contains about 700 pictures, and other collections. From handsome rly. stat. 1 hr. to

Baden-Baden (Victoria; Regina; Bellevtce; Park; Messmer; Terminus; Paris; Rdmerl)ad), in a glen amid the foothills of the Black Forest. 40,000 foreigners come here yearly, to indulge in fashionable lounging, to enjoy the mild climate and beautiful environs, and to drink the mineral waters. Vast and magnificent Trink-Halle, Conver- sation-House', and Bath-House. The lofty New Castle (1 mk.), built 1479-1519, is the summer home of the Grand Duke. Band music in the town several times daily. Good theatre. Prices at Baden generally high. Excursions thence into the Black Forest. Rly. S. to Kehl, where the Rhine is crossed to

Strassburg (Maison Rouge; Hotel Christoph; Ville de Paris; Pfeiffer), the capital of Alsace- Lorraine (170,000 inh.), terribly bombarded in the war of 1870-71. The grand Cathedral, built 1015-1439, has magnificent fagade by Erwin von

S. EUROPE. Strassbubg.— Freiburg. 313

Steinbacli (1318), and a spire 465 ft. high (as- cent, li mk.), whence an extensive view is gained, even to the Jura Mts. The interior, 323 ft. long and 99 ft. high, with its 15th-century stained windows, slender and richly carved pil- lars, and Erwin's tomb and pillar, is impressive. The celebrated Astronomical Clock is in the S. transept. The bombardment of 1870, which de- stroyed the Library, Theatre, Picture Gallery, etc., spared the Cathedral. The new Univer' sity, now specially favored by Germany, is at the Fischer Gate. The new Library already has 800,000 vols. In St. Thomas Gh. (10 pf.) is a vast marble monument to Marshal Saxe, which it took 20 years to make. In the Place Gutenberg is a statue of Gutenberg. The New Temple has been rebuilt magnificently. Many statues on the squares. The Municipal Museum of Art, containing a picture gallery and a collec- tion of Alsatian antiquities, occupies the old Episcopal Palace. The Emperor's Palace, a re- naissance building, is open daily, 10-6, 25 pf. Strassburg is an important strategic point, and vast fortifications have been erected by the Ger- mans.

From Strassburg go to Basle along the Black Forest.

Freiburg {Zdhrmger; Victoria; Europe) is a pretty forest-town of 74,000 inhab., and the capi- tal of the Breisgau. It has suffered much in many wars. The Cathedral is a symmetrical red-sandstone Gothic ch. (1122-1236), with a re- markable tower, 397 ft. high ; a rich portal, with statuary; and an interior (342 ft. x 102 ft. and 85 ft. high) lighted from five stained windows, and containing many old monuments, paintings,

314 S. EUROPE. Freiburg.

etc. (best time to visit, 10.30-12; fee at choir, 50 pf. ; to tower, 20 pf.). The Kaufhaus, on the S., is a handsome 15th-century building. The new Victory Monument chiefly honors Gen. von Werder. See the quaint fountains, the streams of pure water in the streets, and the pretty pebble pavements. Climb the SchJossherg. Grand view over Biack Forest, Vosges, and Rhineland. From Freiburg to Basle, 2 hrs.

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SWITZERLAND.

FOR direct routes from Paris, see page 199. Swiss money is in francs, like French. The Swiss season is Aug. in the high Alps, July 15 to Sept. 15 elsewhere. Return and ex- cursion tickets on all Swiss rlys. Pensions (large summer boarding-houses) at all chief re- sorts, $.80-42.00 a day.

Basle, Zurich, Lake Constance.

Basle {Trois Rois; SchweizerTiof ; Victoria; Elder; Bauer; Central), a town of 135,000 inhab., on Rhine, has rlys. in every direction. There are many handsome streets, and pleasant parks and promenades. The Cathedral, built by Henry II. in 1010-19, and restored after destruc- tions by fire and earthquake, is an imposing Gothic building of red sandstone, now Pro- testant (Wed., 2-4, free; other times 25 c.) An- cient statuary on fagades ; 2 lofty towers, built in 1500. In rich and beautiful interior see the roodloft (1381) stained windows; Chapel of St. Nicholas; font (1465) pulpit (1486); tombs of Erasmus and of Empress Anna ; sculptures on N. portal and around choir. Very fine cloisters 1362-1487), leading to the Pfal::; terrace

The Museum (i f r. ; Sun. and Wed. free), has many historic and scientific curiosities, and the

316 SWITZERLAND. Schaffhausen.

largest Swiss picture-gallery, including many choice Holbeins (The Passion, etc.) and works of modern Swiss and Germans. The Histori- cal Museum (Sun. and Wed. 2-4, free; other days, except Mon., 10-12.30 and 2-4, ^ fr.) has many objects relating to Swiss history and also fragments of the 15th-century fresco of the Dance of Death. The University Library (reading room open 9-12.30 and 2.30- 7) contains 250,000 volumes and 4,000 MSS. The Mission House, for education of mis- sionaries, is one of the powerful local thelogi- cal influences, and has an interesting museum (open daily). See the Toim Hall (1508) ; the Spahlen Gate (1400) ; the quaint fountains; St. Elizabeth's Church, with view from tower; and the Strassburg Monimient erected in 1895 in memory of the aid given to the women and chil- dren of Strassburg following the siege of 1870.

Basle to Ducerne, direct, 55i M. ; fares, 9 fr. 40 c, 6 fr. 60 c, 4 fr. 40 c. It is better, how- ever, to go via the Falls of the Rhine and Lake Constance, by rly. up the Rhine. From Basle it is 59 M. (9^ fr., 6 fr. 30 c, 4 fr. 5 c.) to

Schaifhausen (Miiller; Riesen; Rheinischer Hot), a picturesque town, with quaint, old fres- coed houses; a wall with 6 gates, and old tow- ers; a massive castle (1564) ; and a Romanesque Cathedral (1101). The bell inscribed Vivos voco, mortuos plango, fulgura frango, cast in 1486, is in room near cloisters, having been replaced by a new one cast in 1898. The Falls of the Rhine may be visited hence (carriage, 2 fr. 40 c, or tram). They are near Neuhausen stat iSchwei- zerhof, with view of Alps and Falls; Bellevue). Here the Rhine, 380-400 ft. wide, descends 100 ft.

SWITZERLAND. Constance. 317

in rapids, whirlpools, and 3 falls, over limestone ledges. It is the largest fall in Europe, and should be seen by moonlight, or under its morn- ing or late-afternoon rainbows. You may ascend the rock which divides the falls (3 fr.) ; or view them from Laufen castle (1 fr.), the best point, where the Fischetz platform should be visited. The falls are illuminated summer evenings by colored lights, for which a small charge is made in the hotel bill.

Constance {Insel; Hecht; Halm; See), a de- cadent town of 25,000 inhab. The Cathedral (1502) has notable stained glass, bas-reliefs, cloisters, choir-stalls, and the stone on which John Huss is reported to have stood when sen- tenced. W. of the town is a stone marking where Huss and Jerome of Prague were burned alive (1415-16). In the frescoed Kaufhaiis (1^ fr.) the Council of Constance met (1414-18). See Town Hall (1593), St. Stephen's Ch., the Ros- garten Museum of natural history and an- tiquities ( Sun. 10.30-12 and Wed. 2-5 free, other days i fr.), and former Dominican monastery, on an island, now converted into the Insel Ho- tel, with Romanesque cloisters.

Ziirich (Hotel Baur an Lac; Bellevue; Na- tional; St. Gotthard; Slmplon), the largest city in Switzerland on the swift green river Lim- mat, at the foot of the beautiful Lake Ziirich. Remarkable view (especially by moonlight) from bridge, of villages, villas, embowered spires, and distant Alps. Zurich is famous for learned schools, beautiful environs, and conclaves of po- litical exiles. See the Romanesque Cathedral (12th century), with fine cloisters and statue of Charlemagne; Toicn Hall; the handsome Quai-

318 SWITZERLAND. Lake Constance.

Briicke (1885) ; See-Quai on the Lake, with promenade, the JSohe Promenade, with fine view ; LWrary, with rare MSS. ; Polytechnic School, splendid view from terrace; Kunsthaus, with Picture Gallery on second floor (10 or 1.30-5, ^ fr. Sun. and Wed. free) ; St. Augustine's Ch.; St. Peter's Ch., where Lavater preached 23 years ; Arsenal, with Tell's bow. Zwinglius's battle-axe, etc. ; and Botanic Gardens, with busts of de Candolle and other botanists.

In the Platz Promenade, in the triangle be- . tween the Sihl and Limmat rivers, is the Swiss National Museum (open daily, ex. Mon., 10-4 or 5; free in afternoon, 1 fr. in morning). This contains a miscellaneous collection of ob- jects illustrating Swiss history, art, and indus- trial progress ; the collection of stained glass is particularly fine. The Tonhalle, on the lake w. of the Quai-Briicke, has good restaurant; con- cert here every evening.

Lake Constance (in German the Boden-See, in Latin Laciis Brigantinus) is very pretty in sum-- mer, but has not the beauty of the other Swiss lakes. It is 42x8 M. in area, and 156^ M. around ; very deep ; with green water, abounding in trout ; flat, or undulating shores ; and distant views of the Alps of Vorarlberg and Appenzell. In 4 centuries it has frozen over but 15 times. It lies between Baden, Austria, Bavaria, Wiirt- emberg, and Switzerland. There is an immense traffic betu^een the lake-ports.

The Uetliberg, 2,864 ft. high, G M. S. W. of Zurich, is ascended by a rly. with a gradient in some places of 7 in 100 ft. (3 fr. 50 c, 2 fr. ; re- turn tickets, 5 fr., 3 fr.). The view includes Ziirich and its lake, the Limmat Valley, the

SWITZERLAND. Lake of Zurich. 319

Alps from the Sentis to the Junfrau, the Righi, Pilatus, the Juras, Vosges, and Black-Forest peaks. Magnificent views from road up.

The Spliigen Pass.

Ziirich (or Rohrschach) is a good point from which to visit the Splugen Pass. Very pleasant trip to its summit, although it is not the best route into Italy. Go by steamer (be careful to start from the right pier ; 2-2^ hrs. ; fares, 2 fr. 20 c, 1 fr. 40 c.) up the lovely Lake of Zii- rich, 25* X 2^ M. in area, with transparent blu- ish-green water reflecting the chain of happy shore- villages and the snowy Alps of Schwyz and Glarus, to Rapperschwyl (Hotel du Lac; Schwan), which has the Lindenhof, 'Capuchin monastery, deer-park, and ancient castle, con- taining the Polish National Museum. Rly. from Zurich to Rapperschwyl, 22* M. ; fares, 4 fr. 70 c, 2 fr. 20 c. ; to Coire, 4-5 hrs. ; fares, 12 fr. 30 c, 8 fr. 90 c. The rly. follows Lake Ziirich from Rapperschwyl to ScTimerikon ; ascends the Linth valley; runs along the shore of the magnificent Lake of Wallenstadt for 12 M. ; enters upper Rhine valley ; and runs S., through grand scen- ery, to

Ragatz (Quellenhof and Ragatz, both united with the Casino; ScJitveizerhof ; Tamina; Bris- tol) favorite summer-resort at the mouth of the wonderful Tamina gorge, 2* M. up which are the hot saline baths of Pfdfcrs, amid very impres- sive rocky scenery, and cliffs GOO to 700 ft. high. A cable tramcar runs to the springs every * hr., round trip 1 fr. 30 c. These waters have been prized for 800 yeare. They are conducted to the

320 SWITZERLAND. Coire.— Thusis.

baths at Ragatz. Tlie philosopher Schelling is buried at Ragatz.

The rly. ascends the Rhine valley, by the 4th century Roman tower of Mayenfeld, and many pretty villages, vineyards, and castles, to

Coire (Steinbock; LuTcmanier; Drei Konige), the capital of the Canton of the Orisons (12,000 inhab.), surrounded with picturesque walls and Roman towers, and nestling under the Mitten- berg. The Cathedral (12th century) contains a fine High Altar of carved wood, dating from 1490, and rare Roman antiquities. The Epis- copal Palace is very ancient (bishopric founded in 4th century), (^rand views from the Rosen- hiigel and other hills.

The Spliigen Pass is reached twice daily by rly. from Coire to Thusis (1 hr. ; 17 M. ; 5 fr. 60 c, 4 fr. 20 c. ), thence by diligence (4 hrs, ; 16 M. ; 0 fr. 65 c. ; coupe, 7 fr. 90 c). Thusis (Via Mala; Post; Adler) is a centre of grand excur- sons. Many tourists walk from here up through the Via Mala, a tremendous gorge between cal- careous cliffs 1,600 feet high, with the Rhine roaring heavily below. Thousands of lives have been lost by avalanches and land-slips in this "Bad Way." The safe new road, with its tun- nels and bridges, was built in 1822. A stone dropped from Second Bridge (247 ft. high; here the scenery is grandest) makes a noise like a cannon.

The verdant farms of the Valley of Schams open out above ; and th© road passes Zillis, with its venerable ch. ; Andeer, an old Romansch vil- lage; traverses the wild Roffna Ravine, 3 M. long, by the Rhine cascades ; comes into view of the Einshorn and Pizzo Uccello peaks; and

SWITZERLAND. The Engadtne. 321

reaches Spliigen {Hotel Bodenhaus) , where the diligences all stop for dinner.

Diligences twice daily from Spliigen to Chia- renna (10 fr., coup^" 12 fr.) ; rly. thence to Colico (3 fr., 2i fr., 11 fr.). It is about 7 M. from Spliigen to the top of the pass 6,945 ft. high, the Italian frontier line, with Surettahor- ner (9,925 ft.) on one side, and Schneeliorn (10,- 748 ft.; Milan and Suabia are visible from it) on the other. The road descends by leagues of zigzags and galleries, ravines and cascades, to the vineyards and chestnut fields of Chiavenna {Conradi; National), with its ruined castle and fine old ch. ; thence rly. down a mountain-gir- dled valley by Riva to Colico, on Lake Como.

By the Bernardino Pass, diligences run daily to Mesocco (10 fr. 25), thence by electric ry. to Bellinzona (5f.5.) The road ascends the deso- late Rheinwald valley 8-9 M. to the top of the pass (6,768 ft. high), surrounded by Alps and glaciers ; and thence descends by long zig- zags, to San Bernardino, Mesocco, Cama, Rov- credo and other charming Italian-Swiss villages, rly.amid very grand scenery. From Bellinzona; 14 M. to Locarno (| hr. ; 2 fr. 30 c, 1 fr. 60 c, 1 fr. 15 c), whence rly. to Lake Como and Milan.

The Engadine is a dry, cold, and silent val- ley, 3,300 to 5,800 ft. high, 57 M. long, and 1 M. wide, between the Engadine and Bernina Alps and glaciers. It is divided into the Upper En- gadine and the Lower Engadina; the former ex- tends 24 M. from the Malaja Pass to Punt Ota, a bridge crossing a small brook emptying into the Inn River; the latter, about 33 M. long, ex- tends from Punt Ota to Martinsbruck on the

322 SWITZERLAND. St. Moritz.

Tyrolese frontier. The Upper Engadine, near St. Moritz, is much frequented, especially by English and Americans, and for those who need a cool, bracing air it is "a ^yonderful health re- sort, being particularly adapted to the outdoor treatment of consumption.

From Coire the Albula railway (59^ M. ; 4 hrs. ; 23 fr. 25, 15 fr. 50) runs through picturesque mountain scenery, over numerous viaducts, and through 41 tunnels, one of them 4f M. in length, to

St. Moritz (Kulm; Belvedere; Palace; Grand; Schiceizerhof; Savoy; Waldhaus), the highest settlement in the valley (6,000 ft), a village of 2,000 inhabitants. Here is buried the founder of the Children's Aid Society of New York, Mr. Charles Loring Brace. There are grand moun- tain views from several points in the village. Three miles distant (electric tram, fare 20 c.) are the

Baths of St. Moritz (Neues Stahlhad; Vic- tcyria; Kurhaus; Du Lac; Bellcvue; Engadlner- hof) famous for chalybeate springs, impregnated with carbonic acid and alkaline salts. Alps and glaciers surround the place, and the air is in- vigorating to invalids.

Pontresina {Roseg ; Weisses Kreuz; Lan- guard; Engadiner Hof; Palace), 7 M. from St. Moritz, is the starting-point for excursions in the Bernina chain. The season is short, prices high, and society good.

The magnificent Bernina Pass, 7,057 ft. high, is crossed by electric railway from Pontresina to Tirano (3* hr. ; 13 fr. 90, 12 fr. 70) ; then rly. to Colico, on Lake Como (3 hr. ; 22 fr. 75, 17 fr. 40).

SWITZERLAND. Lucerne. 323

Lucerne, The Rigi, the St. Gothard Route.

Rly. from Basle (3i brs. ; fares, 9 fr. 40 c, 6 fr, 60 e., 4 fr. 70 c.) ; or from Ziiricb. by Zug (6^ fr., 4 fr. 55 c, 3i fr.) ; or from Berne (11 fr., 7i fi\, 5 fr. 30 c.) ; to

Lucerne (on rigbt bank, Schiceizerhof ; Luzer^ nerliof; 'National; Sican and Rigi; cle VEurope, Tivoli; Montana; on left bank, Victoria; clu Lac; St. Gotthard; Bristol; Sauuage; Engel), beau- tifully situated at tbe outlet of tbe most lovely lake in Switzerland, between tbe Pilatus and Rigi, and facing tbe Alps of Uri and Engelberg. Tbe Town Hall bas ancient carvings ; and in tbe Stiftskirche see grand organ, carvings, stained glass. Tborwaldsen's Lion of Lucerne is a statue of a dying lion 28 ft. long, cut in tbe face of a cliff, and commemorating 800 soldiers of tbe Swiss Guard, wbo died in defence of tbe Tuil- eries in 1792. Capell Bridge, built 1303, over river Reuss, bas 154 old paintings on its roof, and ends at St. Peter's Chapel (12tb century). Tbe Water Toicer, according to tradition, was once a ligbt-bouse (lucerne), and gave name to tbe town. It now contains tbe arcbives. Tbe MiiJilen Bridge is ornamented witb 30 singular pictures of tbe Dance of Deatb ; tbe Kapell Bridge witb historical pictures and episodes in tbe lives of tbe two patron saints of tbe town, Sts. Mauritius and Leodegar, See also Museum and Library (90,000 vols.) ; Stauffer's Alpine animals (1 fr.) ; tbe Glacier Garden (1 fr.) ; and the Jesuit ch. Tbe ScMveizerhof and tbe Na- tional Quays are beautiful promenades with many trees, between the palatial hotels and the lake.

324 SWITZERLAND. The Rigi.

The Rigi is a group of mts., 30-40 M. around, the chief peak, the Kuhn, being 5,905 ft. high (4,470 ft. above the lake), and nearly sur- rounded by the lakes of Lucerne, Zug, and Lo- werz. The Kulm is ascended by a mt. rly., like that on Mt. Washington, and has many hotels, among which are the Rigi-Kiilm; Rigi-Staffel ; Rigi-KaltTjad; Sonne.) Engage rooms in ad-, vance in July or August ; for then hundreds come up here to spend the night and see the sunrise. Take plenty of warm wraps. It is but 2i hrs. from Lucerne to the top, by steamer to Vitz- nau, and mt. rly. thence (4^ M. ; 7 fr.). Circu- lar ticket, good 3 days, from Ziirich by Zug to the Rigi-Kulm, down by rly. and steamer to Lucerne, and back to Ziirich, costs 22 fr. 40 c, 19f fr., 16 fr. 70 c. From the crest you see a line of snowy Alps, 120 M. long, the Sentis, Ber- nese range, Wetterhorn, Jungfrau, etc. ; else- where, the Juras, Vosges, Suabian Mts., Black Forest ; many a famous Swiss town ; and 13 lakes. The Rigi-Scheidegg, commanding a very noble view, is reached by branch rly.

From Vitznau go by steamer (2 hrs. : 2 fr. 20 c, 1 fr. 10 c.) to Fliielen, up the superb Lake of Lucerne (Vierivaklstatter-See, or Lake of the Four Forest Cantons), the grandest in Europe, 1,433 ft. high, 25 M. long, and -] M. wide. It forms an irregular cross, between vast mts. From the summer hotels at the numerous vil- lages— Beckenried. Gersau, Brunnen, etc.— fine mt. excursions may be made. Just beyond See- lisberg are the sacred springs of the Riitii, on whose meadow Fiirst, Erni, and Stauffacher founded the Swiss liberties, in 1307. Beyond is Tell's Platte, with its romantic chapel, on the

SWITZERLAND. Altoef. 325

ledge where Tell leaped ashore from Gessler's boat. Marvellous scenery thence to the head of the lake.

Superb views are had from several points near the city. The finest is from the Sonnen'berg (20 min. by electric car and inclined rly. ; round trip 3 fr.) There is a golf course here near the ho- tel. A fine view of the mountains, the lake, and the town is also had from Giitsch, an eleva- tion to the west, reached by tram in 15 min. (re- turn ticket 90 c. ) . Another point where there is a good view is the Drei Linden, 20 min. by car- riage along a good road.

Fluelen (Adler; Kreuz; Tell; Mooshad) is the port of Uri. 2 M. beyond is Altorf {Tell; Schliis- sel; Loive). Uri's capital in a mountain-walled valley, and the reputed scene of TelFs shooting the apple. The site is marked by a fountain. Colossal statue of Tell near by. His birthplace, near Btirglen, is occupied by a frescoed chapel. Nine M. beyoad Altorf is Amsteg {Stern; Kreuz ; Hirsch), where the Pass begins. This was the chief route over the Alps until 1800. The road was built 1820-32. The scenery here is grander than on any other pass. The Lucerne-Milan rly. runs under the St. Gothard, in a tunnel nearly 9 M. long, built 1872-82, at a cost of over $10,- 000,000.

Beyond Amsteg, the road ascends the narrow Reuss valley, with the huge Bristenstock on the 1. ; over the lofty Pfaffenspriing bridge; by Was- sen {Hotel des Alpes) and Wattingen, near Rohr'bacli fall and the Teufehtein; Geschcnen, at the mouth of the tunnel ; up steep ascents, and over the DcviVs Bridge, where French, Aus- trians, and Russians fought in 1799; through

326 SWITZERLAND. Rhone Glacier.

the Timer Loch tunnel, into Urseren valley ; and up to Andermatt {Bellevue; St. Gotthard ; Grand; Monopole), among high and arid mts. crowned with snow. See chapel, and mineral collections. Nine M. distant in the summit of the St. Gothard Pass (6,936 ft. high), whence road descends steeply by the Hospice to Airolo and Biasca, whence rly. to Milan.

It is better to return from the top of the Pass, spend the night at Andermatt, and go over the

Furca and Grimsel Passes to Interlaken.

From Andermatt diligence run in 5-6 hrs. (21 M. ; 8* fr. ; coupe, 10 fr. 20 c), through Hespen- thal {Meyerhof; Loice), 2* M. out; and by a zigzag route up the precipices, amid wonderful scenery, to the top of the Furca Pass {Hotel dc la Furca), 7,992 ft. high; past the grand and lofty Galenstock and Furkahorn ; and thence to the Rhone Glacier. This vast sea of ice, 10,- 450 ft. high, is surrounded by lofty snowy peaks, and gives birth to the famous river Rhone. Long- fellow, in Hyperion, describes it as a frozen cata- ract, 2,000 ft. high, and many miles broad. You may go thence to Brieg by diligence (5 hrs. ; 10^ fr. ; coupe. 12 fr. 75 c.) whence rly. to Visp, en route to Zermatt. It is better to pass the night at the Hotel du Glacier du Rlione : and at morn go by horse (32 fr.) along the steep grassy Maiemcand ; up over the Grimsel Pass (7.103 ft. high) ; by the Lake of the Dead, in which the soldiers killed in the battles between the French and Austrians hereabouts, in 1799, were buried ; down the steeps to the Hospice (now a hotel), in the rocky mt. basin of the Grimselgrund, near

SWITZERLAND. Meiringen.— Brienz. 327

the Agassizhorn and the Finster-Aarhorn, and 2 hrs. from the Unter-Aar Glacier, where Prof. Agassiz abode in 1841 (excursion to top of Little Sidelhoru, 3 hrs. ; guide, 4 f r. ) ; down the Aar ravine to the Handeck Falls (1^ fr.) ; where the icy river precipitates itself 250 ft, in a deep rocky gorge; by Guttanen, with its rock-strewn meadows ; to Im-Hof, whence a good road leads to

Meiringen {Sauvage; Meiringenhof; Cou- roune; de VOurs) is beautifully situated in the Hasli valley near the Reichenbach Falls. It was almost totally destroyed by fire in October, 1891. but has been rebuilt. From behind the Chalet I'Ami you can descend into the canon of the Aar. It is 5| hrs. hence to Handeck Falls (horse up and back, 15 fr.).

The Briinig Pass is one of the most frequented. Lucerne to Alpnach (whence Pilatus may be as- cended) by steamer (IJ hrs.), and thence by rail (10 fr.) to Brienz, via Meiringen. You pass the pretty hamlet of 8arnen, in a rich val- ley between high mts. ; Sachseln, with a saint's relics in its ch. ; over the Briinig Pass, 3,395 ft. high {Hotel BrihiigJcuhn) ; and then downward, with magnificent mt. views, to the Aar, where you meet the valley road. We advise the tourist to go from Lucerne to the top of the St. Gotthard, and thence over the Furca and Grimsel to Meir- ingen. You may go thence to the top of the Briinig in a morning.

Brienz (Bar; Weisses Kreuz), on the moun- tain-walled Lake of Brienz. 800 people are em- ployed here in wood-carving. The lake is 7^x21- M., and the deepest in Switzerland. It is tra- versed by the whitish-green waters of the Aar.

328 SWITZERLAND. Ixteelaken.

The Giessbach is a series of 7 beautiful cascades, falling from rocks 1,148 ft. high, amid luxuriant herbage and stately trees, and illuniinated at night by Bengal lights. A mt.-rly. leads from the landing on the lake, over the tree-tops, to the hotel (telegraph for rooms, and stay all night). By steamer in 10 min. from Brienz ; thence by ■ footpath in 20 min. Steamer from Briena, 7 times daily (2 fr., 1 fr.), to InterlaJcen.

The Bernese Oberland.

Interlaken (Victoria; Metropole; Jungfrau; fles Alpes; Belvidere; Jungfrauhlick; Soidw; Cerf; Oherlmider; Bellevue; Stadhaus; Na- tional; Park; Savoy) in the beautiful glen "be- tween the lakes" of Brienz and Thun, is the main rendezvous of tourists during the high season (July 15 to Oct. 1), and the best point for trips in any part of the Bernese Oberland. People remaining 2-3 weeks in this great town of ho- tels can get board for 8-9 fr. a day, or in the pensions at 5-6 fr. See the magnificent Hohe- weg promenade, lined with walnut-trees ; the Kiirsaah with concerts twice daily ; the old wooden village of Unterseen; the ruined castles of Unsprimnen and Weissenau; and the pre- cipitous Harder mt., where many fatal accidents have occurred. The Interlaken hotels are crowded with people of fashion; and parties, balls, and receptions continually occur.

Excursions. — The legal tariffs for carriages are printed in a pamphlet (to be had at the hotels), and are adhered to by drivers. Local guide books (in English) describe routes and local- ities. Grindlev/ald (Bar; Schonegg; Adler; Ah

SWITZERLAND. Lauterbeunnen. 329

penruhe) is reached by railway or private con- veyance, and is near two vast glaciers, in a valley surrounded by the Wetterhorn, Metten- berg, and Biger.

Lauterbrunnen (SteinhocTc; StauMach) is 71 M. from Interlaken, in a narrow rock- girt glen, close to the famous Staubbach (dust-brook), a slender but unbroken fall 980 ft high. Farther up the glen are the grand SchmadriMch Fall and the far-viewing Stein- berg Alp. A marvellous Alpine experience is gained by climbing (2f hrs.) to Miirren {Grand Hotel des Alpes; Miirren; Jung f ran; Eiger), a hamlet 5,347 ft. high, on the edge of a cliff which fronts on one of the grandest Oberland ranges. The trip from Lauterbrunnen to Miirren can now be made by cable and electric rly. (return tickets, 6 fr.). Large English colony here, July- September, with church. Grand views of Jung- frau, Eiger, Breithorn, Monch, etc. Excursion thence to the SchmgelJiorn in 4-6 hrs. (guide necessary; return, 3 hrs.).

Prom Lauterbrunnen bridle-path over the "Wengernalp; by the Hotel de la Jungfrau, whence is the finest view of the Jungfrau, 13,671 ft. high; over the Little Scheidegg {Hotel Belle- vue), 6,788 ft. high, with magnificent views; and down to Grindelwald (entire journey, 6-7 hrs.) ; or one can go (less desirable) by rly.

Meiringen to Grindelwald, 18 M. (7^ hrs. walk, or horseback ride), by the grand ReicJien- lyach Fall; the Baths of Rosenlaui {Kiirhaus), near the Rosenlaui Glacier; over the Great Scheidegg pass, 6,434 ft. high ; and down by the Upper Grindelwald Glacier. Grand views of Wetterhorn, Faulhorn, etc., and from the low

330 SWITZERLAND. LakeofThun.

Grind elalp. Grindelwald to Lauterbrunnen or Interlaken.

The Lake of Thun, reached by rly. from In- terlaken (Interlaken to Thun, 4-5 times daily, in li hr. ; 4 fr. 10 c), 12x2^ M. in area, and 1,837 ft. high, has many villas and hamlets on its banl^s, back of which rise vast mts. As the steamer leaves Diirlingen. fine retrospect of the Monch, Eiger. and Schreckhorn.

The Gemini. — From Spiez (Spiezerhof, lake baths; Schonegg), road into the Frutigthal (2^ hrs. ; also from Thun) and to Kandersteg {Vic- toria). Ry. to Frutigen. l-horse carriage, Spiez to Kandersteg, 18 fr. 2-horse carriage, 18 and 35 fr. From Kandersteg a bridle path leads over the Gerami pass (7,553 ft. high), amid magnificent scenery, and down to the Baths of Leuk (23i M. ; guide, 7 f r. ; horse, 20 fr. : horse to top of pass, 15 fr.) The steamer touches at Spiez, Ohcrhofen. etc., and backs down the Aar to Scherzligen close to Thun (Hotel de Thun; Belleviic; Beau Rivage ; Freienlwf). a prettily situated village, with quaint street-architecture; a castle built in 1182 ; the Federal Military School ; and numerous fashionable summer ho- tels. Rly. to Berne. 1 hr. (3 fr. 35 c, 2 fr. 35 c, 1 fr. 70 c.)

Berne, Freiburg, Lausanne, Geneva.

Berne (Bernerhof and Belle vue, both with fine views of the Bernese Alps; Schweizerliof : de la Poste, Bar, Metropolc. Cigogne), the capital of Switzerland (80,000 inhab.), on a sandstone pen- insula high over the Aar, has pleasant arcaded streets and mediaeval houses and fountains, and

SWITZERLAND. Bern. 331

is a favorable place to rest after journeying im the Alps. See fine Gothic Cathedral (1598). with quaint carvings and famous organ. From the Cathedral-Terrace, one may see the en- tire Bernese range, Wetterhorn, Finster-Aar- horn, Monch, Eiger, Jungfrau, etc., and the beau- tiful roseate sunset effect of the Alpenglow ; beautiful views are also to be had from the Kleine Schanze, Grosse Schanze, Kursaal Schanzli, and De Gurten, and the Enge near Berne. See the statues of Adrian von Bul^en- Jyerg, of Rudolph von Erlach, a victorious general of the Bernese in the battle of Laupen in 1339, and of Berthold von Zdhrmgen, the founder of Berne in 1191; the Monument to the Interna- tional Postal Union; the Kirchenfeld and Korn- haus 'bridges; the numerous fountains, espe- cially the Ogre fountain; the Bear-Pit, with bears, maintained at the cost of the muni- cipality: Arsena?, and military curiosities ; Clock- Toicer, built in 1191, with quaint automata ; Corn-Hall, over great wine cellars ; and the Rathhaus built in 1406. The Federal Buildings, Bundeshaus, open 9-11.30, 1.30-4. free) are three noble Florentine edifices (1857, 1892, and 1901). The houses of the national legislature meet here. From roof of older building there is a famous view of the Alps and city. Visit Historical Museum (9-12, 2-4, ^ fr., Tues. and Sat. free) ; Art Museum (9-12, 1-5, * fr.. Sun. and Tues. free), mostly modern paintings; National His- torjj Museum (hours vary. adm. | fr. : Sun.. Tues.. and Sat. free) ; Alpine Mu.^eum (9-12, 1.30-5, f fr. Sun. free). From Berne by ry. in li hr.. (fares 3^ fr., 1 fr. 85 c.) to

332 SWITZERBAND. Freiberg.— Lausanne.

Freiburg {Hotel Suisse; Terminus), founded (like Berne) by Berthold von Zabringen in 1175, and standing on cliffs over the river Sarine, a nobly picturesque situation. See the Gothic Church of St. Nicholas (built 1283), in which is a renowned organ of 7,800 pipes, said to have the richest tone in the world (concert 1.30 and 8 p. m. summer evenings, 1 fr.) ; the 16-century Rathhaus, with its venerable lime-tree and stair- way to the lower town ; and the Suspension Bridge, 800 ft. long and 168 ft. abore the river.

The descent hence to Lausanne (42 M.) is one of the most beautiful routes in Europe. Take seat on 1. side, to see the Lake of Geneva and its picturesque shores. Exquisite view after emerg- ing from the tunnel beyond Chexhres (the stat. for Vevay).

Lausanne (Richetnant; Beau Sejour; Cecil; Beau Site; Alexandra; de la Paix; Gihbon, where Gibbon wrote part of his history), with its lovely views over the lake, has become a favorite summer-resort and place of residence (64,000 inhab.). See Gothic Cathedral (Pro- testant), built 1235-75, where Calvin and others held a famous debate, in 1536, resulting in Protestantizing Vaud. It is reached by 164 steps from the market-place ; and the plain symmetri- cal interior is 300 feet long. Organ recitals (1 fr.) are given here Mon. and Thurs. afternoons. The old Episcopal Castle (now Cantonal Council- Hall) commands a broad prospect. See the two museums. From the Signal, half an hour walk out, the best view is gained.

Continue on this route, by the lovely villages of Morges, Nyon, and Coppet, to

Geneva (right bank, G-rand Hotel de la Paix;

bWITZERLAND. Geneva. 333

des Bergnes; Bean Rivage; de Russie; Riche- mont; Bristol; de Bourgogne; left bank, 2Ictro- pole; du Lac; de VEiirope; du Pare; de VEcu), a city of 125,000 inhab., in a pretty situation at the foot of the Lake of Geneva, and divided into two parts by the swift and rushing blue Rhone. The favorite promenade, the Mont-Blanc Bridge, crosses between the lake and Rousseau's Island, on which is a statue of Rousseau. Broad quays, lined with handsome buildings and hotels, face the river and lake. Beautiful views of Mont Blanc from the Qual du Mont-Blanc and the pier beyond; here also is the vast Brunswick Monu- ment. The Cathedral (Protestant), "the St. Peter's of the North," is a plain 13th-century building, containing several old monuments. Organ recitals at 8.15 Mon., Wed., and Sat. in summer (adm. 1 fr.). Here Calvin preached. His house is. close by ; and his grave is in Plain- Palais cemetery. Rousseau's birthplace was No. 40 Grande Rue. See Miisee d'Art et d'Histoire, containing the art collections formerly in the Musee Rath and the antiquities formerly in the Miisee Fol ; inquire regarding hours of adm.,. which vary for the separate collections. See also Florentine Hotel de Ville, with inclined planes instead of stairs; Natiotial Monument, bronze group by the lake; the University (1868-72), with large library and MSS., and famous natural history collections; Musee Ariana (10-4. 1 fr., free Thurs. and Sun.) in the environs with the adjacent Botanical Garden.

Excursions. — To Ferney, 4* M. N. W. (hourly electric tram over a route rich in views), where Voltaire founded a town, built factories, a chat- eau, and a ch. (inscribed Deo erexit Voltaire) ;

334 SWITZERLAND. Coppet.— Nyon.

to the imposing Rothschild villa, at Pregny; to the SaUve, 4 M. S. E., a limestone mt. 4,278 ft. high, giving a panoramic view of the Mont-Blanc chain, the Juras, and the Lake of Geneva ; to Les Voirons, another far-viewing mt. ; to the villas where dwelt Voltaire, Bj^ron, Lola Montez, and the Empress Josephine ; to the French stronghold of Foi't de V Eel use; and to the Perte du Rhone, where, at low water, the river van- ishes in a deep canon.

The Lake of Geneva, the Lacus Lemanus of the Romans, and Lae Lemmi of the French, is the largest Swiss lake, being about 50x9 M. (225 sq. M.) in area, and 1,230 ft. above the sea. It is in the form of a half-moon. The water is deep blue, and contains but few fish. It never freezes over, and has mysterious rises and falls, strong currents, and water-spouts. Voltaire and Rousseau, Byron and Goethe, have praised its magnificent scenery. Scores of villages line the shores, but have little commerce on the water. Capital steamboats ply here.

The S. coast boat runs in 4^-5 hrs. (6 fr., 3 fr.) by Thonon, capital of Chablais ; and Eviar. (Ho- tel d'Evian; Splendide; Royal; de Paris), a beautiful and fashionable French summer-re- sort, with fine views of Lausanne; to Bouveret, at the end of the lake (rly. to Martigny).

The better route is along the N. shore, 4^ hrs. (7^ fr., 3 fr.) from Geneva by Versoix, once a French town; Coppet {Du Lac) whose castle was long time the home and is now the burial- place of Necker, the famous finance-minister, and his daughter, Madame de Stael ; Nyon {Hotel des Alpes; National), a lovely village, with massive 12th century castles, and a splendid view of

SWITZERLAND. Vevey.— Neufchatel. 335

Mont Blanc; Rolle, birthplace of La Harpe, to whom an obelisk has been raised on an adjacent island; Morges {Hotel clii Mont Blanc), with a castle once occupied by Bertha, Queen of Bur- gundy ; Ouchy (Hotel Beau Bivage; clii Fare; Royal), whence rl. in 6 m. (50 c, 25 c.) to Lausanne; Corsier, close to the imposing and far-reaching Ch^and Hotel cle Vevey, in gardens of magnolias and rose-trees ; Vevey ( Gh'and H6- tel de Vevey; du Pont; du Lac; Mooser; dit Chateau; des Alpes), a sheltered nook with semi-tropical climate, much visited by invalids and summer loiterers, and celebrated in Rous- seau's Noiivelle Heloise; Clarens, with many villas and pensions, and natural beauties ex- tolled by Byron and Rousseau ; and Montreux (Loriiis: Montreux Palace; Suisse), a shelter for consumptives ; to Villeneuve, at the end of the lake (ry; to Martigny, etc.). Pleasant walk thence to the famous Castle of Chillon (2 M. ; entrance, 50 c), whose dungeons and their illus- trious prisoner have been immortalized by By- ron. See Rocher de Naye, a beautiful mountain place above Territet, between Chillon and Mon- treux, at the E. end of the Lake of Geneva.

l^euchatel (Bellevue; des Alpes; du Lac; So- leil; Vaisseau), 2 hrs. by rly. from Lausanne, stands on an amphitheatrical slope of the Jura, sloping down to the lake, and is famous for watches. Wealthy citizens have endowed it nobly. See splendid Gymnasium and Academy, museums. Library (150,000 vols.), College, Pic- ture-Gallery (10-12.30, 1.30-4, i fr., Sun. and Thurs. free) of fine modern Swiss paintings, an- cient Castle, and the 3 great hospitals. Agassiz was once a professor here. The Lake of Neu-

336 SWITZERLAND. St. Maurice.

chatel, 24x5 M. in area, lies at the foot of the Juras, with level shores and deep waters. At its S. end is Yverdon {Hotel de Londres), where Pestalozzi conducted his school (1805-25). Steamboats run from Neuchatel to Estavayer, and into the gloomy Lake of Morat, famous in Roman and Burgundian history. To the N., 1 hr. by rly. from Berne, is Bienne, a lovely Ber- nese town of 8,000 inhab., near Chasseral mt. The Lake of Bienne (7 M. long) contains the Peterinsel, where Rousseau took refuge when driven from Geneva (in 1765).

Chamonix and Mont Blanc. i

From Geneva to Chamonix by rail — steam to Fayet St. Gervais, thence by electric tram. The journey takes only a few hours. France is en- tered at Annemasse. Dinner at Sallanches. Fare 12 fr. 15; 7 fr. 20. One can also go by steamer to Villeneuve, thence by rail to Martigny — a pleasant way. Ascending the Rhone Valley from Villeneuve, the rly. passes Aigle (Grand Hotel d' Aigle), a pleasant summer-resort; and Bex {Grand Hotel des Salines: de Bex), whence route to Sion, across the Col de Che^■ille. Beau- tiful views of the Dent du Midi, while nearing St. Maurice {Hotel du Simplon; des Alpes). This is a very old town with a 4th century ab- bey, enshrining rare curiosities ; a stalactite grotto; and picturesque fortifications. Beyond Evionnaz stat. see the Pissevache fall (200 ft.) on the r. This is best visited from Vernayaz {Hotel des Gorges; des A //)e&'), which is also very near the celebrated Gorge du Trient. Martigny {Hotel Clerc; de Mt. Blanc; St. Bernard)

SWITZERLAND. Chamottnix. 337

is starting point of the routes over the Simplon (to Lake Maggiore) and the Great St. Bernard (to Aosta), and over the passes to Chamonix. You can visit Chamonix ; ascend to the top of the St. Bernard : return to Martigny ; and go thence over the Simplon.

The Col de Balme. — Martigny to Chamonix, 8-9 hrs. ; omnibus 16 fr. fee 1 fr., carriage 40 fr. fee, 3-5 fr. Grand view of the Mont-Blanc group. Path in 2 hrs. to Col de Balme {Hotel Suisse), 7,231 ft. high, the boundary between Swiss Yalais and French Savoy, with amazing prospect of mts.

Chamonix {Coiittet et du Pare; C achat et du Mont Blanc; de Paris; Royal et de Saussure; Savoy; Belvedere; Beau-Site), in Arve valley, 3,445 ft. high, at foot of Mt. Blanc, has 15-20,000 visitors yearly, and is one of the chief centres for Alpine tourists. Rooms ^should be secured in advance. The whole valley is worthy of study, and has scores of points of interest. Tariffs for guides and mules (strictly observed) may be obtained at cnief guide's office. Ifi a day you may ascend the Montanvert (easy bridle- path, 2i hrs., cog-wheel rly. in 55 min. 12 fr. 50 ; 8 fr. 25), where Tyndall studied glacier move- ment ; cross the wonderful Mer de Glace to the rocky cliffs of the Cliapeau (path in the ice, 1^ hrs.), where there is an inn; descend to Les Praz; climb thence to La Fleo^re (path in 2^ hrs. ; inn on summit, 6,260 ft. high), whence mag- nificent view of the vast snowy Mont Blanc, Aiguille Yert, Mer de Glace, etc. ; and return to Chamonix. On the descent to Les Praz, you may visit the source of the Arveiron. The Jardin is among the rocks on the Glacier de TaUfrc, where

338 SWITZERLAND. Mont Blanc.

Alpine flowers bloom in August. The Brevent. one of the Aiguilles Rouges, 8,284 ft. high, com- manding the best view of Mont Blanc, may be climbed by path in 4 hrs.

Mont Blanc, the highest of the Alps (15,- 781 ft.), on the boundary between France and Italy, was first ascended in 1786. Many parties now asecend yearly (3-4 persons, 100 fr. each, for guides, etc.). Many valuable lives have been lost here, but in fine weather and with due caution there is little danger. First day's climb to stone huts on Grands Mulets (10,007 ft. ) ; second, to summit and back ; third, from Grands Mulets to Chamonix.

The Tete-Noire affords a good route from Chamonix to Martigny (9-10 hrs.) One can now go by electric tram to Argent iere; across the Col cles Montets; near the Poyaz and Bar- herine Cascades; through Valorcine village and Le Cliatelard ; through the rocky Tetc-Xoire pass ; and down through Trient to Martigny.

The St. Bernard and Simplon Passes. — Zermatt.

Martigny to the Hospice 9-12 hrs., a very in- teresting journey. Start at morn. (2-horse carriage, 40 fr. and gratuity) ; or electric rly. to Orsieres (12 M., 1 hr., 4 fr. 60, 3 fr.), thence diligence (16 M., 8 hrs., 6 fr. 50) to breakfast, and return to Martigny after noon. In winter diligence to Bourg St. Pierre only. The road ascends the Dranse valley to Orsieres (Hotel des Alpcs) ; climbs steeply 5 M- to Liddes (St. Bernard), whence mule and guide to Hospice, by Bourg St. Fierie (Dejeuner de Xapoleon) and Cantine de Proz; 7 M. distant, through the De-

SWITZERLAND. St. Bernard. 339

file de Marengo, at the top of the pass, is St. Bernard Hospice, 8,120 ft. above the sea, occu- pied since 962 by French Augustinian monks, who give free hospitality to all travellers. 20,- 000 peasants are fed here every year ; and in summer many tourists come. No charge is made for food, etc., but well-to-do travellers put money in the poor-box of the ch. The convent, very rich in the Middle Ages, is now poor. Its pro- visions are brought from Italy. See Napoleon's monument to Dessaix, in the chapel ; the great library ; the Morgue ; and the noble dogs. The pass has been crossed by vast armies of Ro- mans, Lombards, Franks, and Germans ; and in 1799 heavy fighting occurred here between the ^ustrians and Napoleon's troops.

It is 6 hrs. hence to Aosta. in Italy. Zermatt {Victoria; Mont-Ceruin; Schiceitzer- liof; Beau Site; Goniergrat), is approached from Martingy by railway, passing through Yispach. The traveller will find this a characteristic Al- pine route, among gorges, cascades, and rocky peaks, with vast mountains in advance. The village is the highest in Europe (5,215 feet), continuously inhabited, and is in the very heart of the Alps, in a glen invaded by 3 glaciers and overtopped by the Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, and other vast peaks. Its ch.-yard has graves of several famous men who lost their lives on these mts. The Riff elberg (with hotel) is 3 hrs. dis- tant, by bridle-path ; and 1^ hr. beyond is the rocky crest of Gornergrat, 10,290 ft. high, with superb view of Monte Rosa's rocky pyramids (10.132 ft.), on the S. E. ; the black Breithorn (13,085 ft.), on the S. ; the craggy Matterhorn (14,705 ft), on the W. ; the Dent Blanche, Ga-

340 SWITZERLAND. The Simplon.

belborn, Morning, the Mischabel and the Alla- leinhorn, in the N. Gornergrat elec. ry. now completed. From Zermatt visit the Gorner Glacier (12 M. long), which is larger than the Mer de Glace ; the Fimlelen Glacier; and to the Cima di Jazi (12,526 ft.), by the Riffelberg. The m. Th6odule Pass leads to Aosta, Monte Rosa (15,217 ft.) offers a safe, but fatiguing climb (up and back, 12-14 hrs.). The fatal Matter- horn is ascended by several parties yearly (a severe 2-days' trip).

The Simplon.— Rly. Martigny to Brieg in 2^ hrs. (8 fr. 20, 5 fr. 80, 4 fr. 10), by Saxon-les- Bains, with iodated waters, good for skin dis- eases; beautiful Sion (Hotel de la Paste; SuL<ise; Terminus) with old castles, GrOthic cathedral, 2 fine old chs., and 6,000 inhab. ; medieval Sierra (Bellevue), with the chateaux of the Valais nobles ; LeuJi:, a few miles from the Baths of Leuk, French Loeche (Hotel des Alpes; Belle- vue De France), and at the foot of the Gemmi Pass; and Visp (Hotel de la Paste), thence to Brieg (Hotel d'Angleterre; Victoria; Couronne) . About a mile from here the rly. enters the Sim- plon tunnel, 12J miles long, completed in 1906, emerging at Nolle and then passing through many tunnels and across deep gorges to Dome d'Ossolo. Diligences cross the Simplon Pass in 9-10 hrs. (39 M. ; fares, 11 fr. 80 c. ; two-horse carriage, 40 fr.), to Domo d'Ossolo. Napoleon built this great road, in 1801-6, at a cost of $3,- 600,000 for a military route into Italy. There are numerous houses of refuge where the road nears the glaciers. The crest of the pass is 6,- 594 ft. high, in an open valley among glaciers. Beyond, near Monte Leone, is the Hospice, whose

SWITZERLAND. The Simplon. 341

monks are hospitable to all comers. Magnifi- cent mt.-scenery on upper reaches of pass. The road descends 5* M. to Simplon (Poste), and through the Gon'do Ravine. Half a mile beyond the hamlet of Gondo it enters Italy, and passes down, by several villages, through wild and pic- turesque gorges, by the Crevola Gallery, and over the lofty Doverie Bridge, to Domo d'Os- sola. (See page 344.)

J

i

ITALY. Mt. Cexis Tuxel. 343

ITALY.

THE money of Italy is reckoned in lire and centesiml, which correspndo to francs and centimes. The paper money consists of notes of 5, 10 and 25 lire. Beware of counterfeits ; also of taking large bank notes in one city which may not be good in another. See Chapter on Travel, for general observations on Italy. Many com- plaints have been made of thefts from baggage on the Italian railways. It is well, therefore, not to carry valuable jewelry or money in trunks.

Routes Into Italy.

1. Paris to Turin, by Mt. Cenis,496f M. Route leads through Fontainebleau. Tonnerre, Mont- bard (Buffon's home). Dijon. Macon, Culoz, Chambery. and Modane (frontier stat. ; change cars). The Mt.-Cenis Tunnel, 8 M. long, was built 1861-71, at a cost of S15,000,COO. Trains for Italy run through it in 45 min. ; trains for France, in 25 min.

2. Paris to Genoa, hy Marseilles and Nice, 790^ M. Rly. from Genoa via Alessandria, to Turin: or from l^avi)na. W. of Genoa, to Turin.

8. Geneva to Milan, by the Sim]>lon. see p. 340.

4. Lucerne to Milan, by the St. Gothard (see

p. 323), through Fltielen. Airolo, and Bellinzcma.

344 ITALY. Domo d'Ossola.

and thence rly. by Como. Or rly. through from Lucerne to Milan.

5. Coire to Milan, by the Spliigen, to Chia- venna and Colico, whence steamer to Como, and rly. to Milan. Or by Bernardino Pass, Coire to Bellinzona, whence rly. Or by Julier and Ber- nina Passes, Coire to Samaden, Tirano, and Colico, whence steamer to Como, and rly. to Milan.

6. BasJe to Milan, by the Stelvio. Rly. to Colico; steamer and rly. to Milan.

7. Munich to Verona, by Brenner Pass, see p. 304.

8. Vienna to Venice, by the Semmering, all rly., by Bruch and Villach, through magnificent scen- ery. Or rly. from Vienna to Trieste, and steamer thence to Venice.

The Tour of the Italian Lakes.

Domo d'Ossola (Hotel Terminus; de la Ville) is a pretty southern village, with a charming view from the Calvary, I hr. distant. Railway to Novara (55 M.) passing the ruined castle of Vogogna; Ornavasso, with a castle of the Vis- conti, and the quarries whence Milan Cathedral was hewn ; Gravellona ; through the valley of the Strona to Omegna at the N. end of the Lake of Orta. Thence along the shore of the lake, beau- tiful views, to Gozzano ; through the valley of the Agogna to Novara, whence Milan can be reached by rly. in IJ hr. Diligence from Gravellona to Pallanza, on Lake Maggiore (6 M.) ; to Stresa (7^ M.). It is wise to make a tour of the lakes (1-2 days) before going to Milan.

ITALY. Lake Maggiore. 345

Lake Maggiore, 37x3 M. in area, and of vast depth, is very beautiful, with the rich plains and vineyards on the S., and the great mts. on the N. There are marble and granite quarries on its shores, and rich mines. Arona {San Got- tardo; Simplon), on the S., is an old town, with rar<^ paintings in its ch. On the hill is a copper and bronze statue, 70 ft. high, of St. Charles Borromeo (1697), the famous Cardinal- Arch- bishop of Milan, who died in 1584. The head will hold 3 persons (ladders ascend to it inside). Steamer from Arona to Locarno calls at Stresa (Hotel des lies Borromees; Belleviie) with its fine monastery and cypress-trees ; and Baveno (Grand Hotel Bellevue; Bean Rlvage; BeUevue; Siniiylon). The shores are lined with villas; and in the N. glimmer the Alps, Monte Rosa, St. Gothard, etc. The beautiful Borromean Islands are touched at (see Jean Paul Richter's description). Isola Bella (Hotel dii Dauphin) has the great palace and park of the Borromeo family (open daily; 1 1.), rising over 10 terraces of gardens, rich in flowers and fountains. Isola Madre has an empty palace, above 7 terraces laden with orange and lemon trees, cedars, and cypresses. Boat with 2 men, from Baveno, 5 1. first hr., 1 1. others. Opposite is Cannero. among the vineyards, with ancient brigands' castles off-shore. Lovely villages appear on either coast. The steamer keeps on N. to Lo- carno (Beau Rivage; Locarno; Reiser; du Pare; Metropole), in the Swiss Canton of Ticino, to which the upper part of the lake belongs. See ch., with good pictures ; Cantonal buildings ; and Ch. of Madonna del Sasso, on the hill, vis- ited by myriads of pilgrims. Rly. hence to Bel-

346 ITALY. Lake Lugano.

linzona, whence diligence over the Splugen. Re turn by boat to

Luino (Hotel dii Simplon; Post; Vittoria), a favorite summer-resort, with the Crivelli Palace and Garibaldi's statue. The Ch. of San Pietro has fresco by Luini. Steam tramway (1 hr.) to Ponte Trem, thence steamboat (50 min.) to Lugano {Hotel clii Pare; Grand; Splendide; Bellevue; Metropole; St. Gothard; Berna; Bris- tol; Beau Regard), a Swiss cantonal capital, inhabited by Italians, amid exquisite scenery and rich villas. See 8. Loretii^o Ch.; Sta. Maria, with Luini*s frescos ; William Tell's statue ; and old convents and palaces. Excursion to Mt. S. Salvador (2,982 ft. high) in 2 hrs. (guide and horse, 7 1.). View of Alps.

Lake Lugano is a series of deep, sinuous gulfs among the mts., 14 M. long and 3 M. wide, Swiss on one side, Italian on the other, in a cli- mate of perpetual spring, and amid very lovely scenery. The adjacent peaks overlook the Lom- bard plain, down to Milan. Steamer from Lu- gano, by Osteno, near a remarkable grotto, to Porlezza, a quaint village in an amphitheatre of hills ; or S. to Capolago. whence railway to Como. Steam tramway (about 9 M. ) from Por- lezza, by Piano and Croce. and through a rich country, with Lake Como below^ and the Alps in sight from the Spliigen to the Orther Spitz, to Menaggio {Menaggio. Vittoria. Corona) , on Lake Como. This is a good point for excursions ; and on the hill is the Villa Vigoni, with fine sculp- tures.

Lake Como, the Lacus Larius of the Romans, is shaped like the letter Y. and is 32 M. long, 2-3 M. wide, and 1,800 ft. deep. It is one of the love-

ITALY. Lake Como. 347

liest lakes in the world, and its natural charms of mts., vineyards, and forests are heightened by the white Italian hamlets and the splendid villas of Milanese families. Cross to Bellaggio {Grande Bretagne; Genazzini; Bellaggio; Villa Serltel- loni; Splendide; Florence; du Lac), a favorite Anglo-American resort. The Villa Melzi (Sun., Thurs., Sat., 1 lira) has splendid sculptures (by Canova) and frescos, and a famous garden. From Villa Serl)elloni, befet view on the lake. Across the lake is Cadennabbia (Bellevue; Belle lie; Britannia), near the celebrated Villa Carlotta (fee 11.), rich in finest sculptures of Canova and Thorwaldsen. . Steamer from Bellaggio to Coliro {Croce d'Oro), whence rly. to Chiavenna and over the Spltigen, or to Tirano and over the Stel- vio, to Switzerland. From Colico one can take steamer through the lake, noting castles of Musso and many beautiful hamlets, to Como {Hotel Volta; Italia; Metropole; Plinius), a place of 35,000 inhab., with statues of its eminent natives, the elder and the younger Pliny, and Volta, the electrician. See marble Lombard-Gothic Cathe- dral (1396), with fine paintings (by Guido, Ver- onese, etc.) and sculptures, and vivid coloring; Ch. of Crocefisso, richly adorned ; basilica of K. Abhondio. 1 M. out; ancient Porta della Torre: and handsome old Broletto, or town-hall. Steam- ers run from Bellaggio down the picturesque Lake of Lecco. an arm of Como, to Lecco, at the foot of the high Resegone peaks (rly. to Milan). The Lake of Orta, 9x1 ^ M. in area, is charm- ingly situated among the Piedmontese hills. Om- nibus (2^1.) from Arona to Orta {^^. Giulio ; Orta; Belvedere), a marble-paved hamlet on a promontory, near the Sacro Monte, a height

348 ITALY. Milan.

dotted with chapels, and looking up on Monte Rosa. — The Lake of Iseo is 15xl§ M. in area, winding, in S shape, among groves of mulberries and figs and gardens of roses and camellias. Railway from Brescia (15 M.) to Iseo (Hotel Leone), whence steamer to beautiful Saniwo and Lovere. — The great Lake of Garda, 37x10 xvl. in area, 1,000 ft. deep, with clear blue waters, abounding in fish, and very picturesque shores, is traversed by steamboats, running from Desen- zano (the home of Catullus) or Peschiera (near the battle-field of Solferino), on the Milan-Ver- ona railway, to Riva (Hotel Lido), a beautiful village at the N. end.

The North-Italian Cities.

Milan (Hotel de la Ville; Cavour; Palace; M^tropole; Milan; Roma; Europa; Manin; de France) is a beautiful and enterprising city (590,- 000 inhab. ) , 9 M. around, in the centre of the rich Lombard plain. It was founded 400 B.C. ; a cap- ital in the 3d-century ; sacked by Attila in 452 ; a Lombard city in 568 ; annexed by Charlemagne ; destroyed by Frederick Barbarossa in 1162 ; re- built by the Lombard League ; governed by the . Visconti and Sforza families, 1312-1545 ; con- quered by Francis I., in 1515 ; annexed by Charles V. soon after, and Spanish till 1714; capital of Italy, 1805-14 ; an Austrian garrison, 1814-59 ; and since then Italian. Manzoni was born here : also 5 popes ; and Virgil studied here.

The magnificent Gothic Cathedral, second only to St. Peter's and Seville Cathedrals in size, was built 1386-1500. It is cruciform, with double aisles and transept-aisles, separated by 52 pil-

ITALY. Milan. 349

lars, each 12 ft. in diameter, witli niches crowded with statues. Interior 477 ft. long, 183 ft. wide, and 155 ft. high. It contains 6,000 statues, a pavement of marble mosaic, vast granite mono- liths, superb stained windows, many tombs of magnates, San Carlo Borromeo's wooden crucifix and gorgeous tomb, and life-size silver statues of saints (in the Treasury). The wonderful marble roof (entered from r. transept, 5 a.m. till dusk, 25 c), with ninety-eight Gothic turrets, hundreds of pinnacles, and over two thousand life-size marble statues some by Canova, should be carefully studied. Ascend (at early morn) to the upper gallery of the tower (494 steps), which is 360 ft. high, and view the Lombard plain, Apen- nines, and Alps (Mt. Cenis, Blanc, St. Bernard, Rosa, Matterhorn, Mischabel, Leone, St. Gothard, Spliigen, Ortler, Spitz, etc.). Watchman here, with telescope.

Cross Cathedral Sq., and enter the Victor-Em- manuel Gallery, the finest arcade in the world ; built in 1865-7 at a cost of $17600,000; 960 ft. long, 48 wide, 94 high, surrounded by handsome shops ; richly frescoed ; and auorned with statues of Raphael, Galileo, Dante, Cavour, and 20 other famous Italians. The octagon under the dome (180 ft. high) is brilliantly lighted at night, when it forms a favorite promenade. On the adjacent Piazza della Scala, see Leonardo da Vinci's mon- ument (1872), the massive Municipal Palace (1555), and the great La Scala Theatre, with 3,600 sittings (1 1. to see building; famous ballets here, in season). Near by is the Jesuit ch. of Sati Fedele (1569). The Brera, once a Jesuit college (1675), is a great palace built around a quadrangle adorned with statues ; it contains

350 ITALY. Milan.

a library of 300,000 vols, and a celebrated gal- lery (open daily, 9-4, 1 1.; free on Sunday) of 400 paintings and sculptures (get catalogue).

Tbe Piazza de'Armi, N.W. of Milan, bas tbe Arena built by Napoleon I., and holding 30,000 spectators ; tbe Castle of tbe Sforzas, built 1358 ; and tbe great triumpbal marble Arch, ending tbe Simplon route, founded by Napoleon (1804) to record bis victories, an^ finished by Austria (1830), with reliefs showing tbe victories over France. Grand statues on summit. Tbe Corso Vittorio Emanuele is the chief business street, and contains »S'. Carlo Borromeo (a copy of the Roman Pantheon), and several palaces. See Pi- azza dei Mercanti. with Exchange and 13th-cen- tury palace of the Podesta ; Piazza Beccaria, with statue of Beccaria ; and the Roman. Gari- baldi, and Tosa Gates. St. Ambrogio, founded by St. Ambrose (4th century), is a Romanes- que cb., rich in monuments of ancient Chris- tianity, 8th-century reliefs, 9tb-century mosaics, Stilicho's sarcophagus, the brazen serpent of Moses. Here Augustine embraced Christi- anity ; Ambrose closed tbe gates against the Em- peror Theodosius ; and the Lombard and German sovereigns received the Iron Crown. In the re- fectory (1 1.), near the rich old abbey-ch. of »Sf. Maria delle Grazie, are the remains of Leonardo da Vinci's grand fresco of The Last Supper. See the 4th-century octagonal *S'. Lorenzo, and its colonnade ; S. Maria di S. Celso, with remarkable paintings, sculptures, and atrium; ^S". Maurizio, with Luini's frescos. The Ambrosian Library (open 10-3, i fr.), founded (1609) by Cardinal Borromeo, bas 175,000 vols., 15,000 MSS., many literary curiosities and several hundred paint-

ITALY. La Certosa. — Pavia. 351

iugs. The Civic Museum (* fr.) has large nat- ural-history collections. The Castello Sforzesco, restored 1893, contains the Municipal Art and Archaeological Museum (adm. 1 fr., Thu. 4 fr., Sun. 20 c). See the Ospedale Maggiore (1457), a vast hospital with 9 courts ; Military Hospital: Manzoni's house ; palaces of Borromeo, Litta. Omoneni, Trivulzio, and Ciani families ; Ceme- teri/, with cremation-temple; Piihlic Park, where Exhibition of 1906 was held; Archlti shop's Pal- ace, near Cathedral, with fine court (1565) ; and Royal Palace, adjacent, with huge Napo- leonic frescos.

La Certosa (1 hr. by rly.), in a fertile and populous plain, was one of the most sumptuous monasteries in the world, and belonged to the Carthusians. It was founded in 1396 by the Yis- conti ; and here Francis I. was a prisoner in 1525. The ch., with 14 columns, a high dome, mosaic floor, monuments, and frescos, is crowded with precious things. The rich Renaissance fa- gade (1473) is in colored marbles, with delicate carvings. Grand cloisters, with slender marble pillars and monks' houses.

Pavia {Croce Bianca; Hotel Tre Be) is a little way S. See unfinished Cathedral fagade and dome built 1S98 ; Promenade, along Ticino River; Uuirersity, the oldest in Europe; old Ro- manesque Ch. of St. Miehele. with Giottesque frescos, colossal statue of Ghislieri : towers on the walls; Castle, built 1630; and the Ch. of San Pietro in del d'Oro, containing the tomb of St. Augustine.

Alessandria (Rly. ReHauraut : Europa ; Lon- dra), a huge fortress (36,000 inhab.), whose ap-

352 ITALY. Turin.

proaches can be flooded in war-time. Citadel built, 1728, by Victor Amadeo II.

Turin (De la Ville, de Turin, d'Europe, Fio- rina, Central, de France, Roma e Rocca Cavour) is a prosperous city of 360,000 inb., on the plain of the Po, near the Graian Alps. It was de- stroyed by Hannibal (218 b.c.) and Alaric ; was a Roman colony ; a bishoprie under Charle- magne ; capital of Savoy and Sardinia, and of Italy (1859-65). It is laid out with Philadel- phian regularity, and surrounded by umbrage- ous promenades, on site of old walls. The Pal- azzo Madama is a huge mediaeval pile, centrally situated ; and once the Senate-house of Italy. Across the Piazza Castello is the Royal Palace, a ponderous old brick building (Sun., Tues,, Thurs., Sat. 10-12, 2-4) , richly furnished, and with fine statuary, library (60,000 vols.), and armory with Roman, French and Austrian standards, Cellini's metal-work, weapons, armor, etc. The handsome and busy Via di Po, with arcades, runs thence to the Po bridge. The Palace of the Duke of Genoa is connected with that of the King. The Royal Gardens open 11-5 Sundays and holidays (music at 1). In the Accademia dtUe Scienze) (daily 9-4, 1 1.; Sun. 1-3, free), are collections in natural history, sculptures, Egyptian antiquities, a library of 40,000 vols., and a gallery of 600 pictures, many of them of great interest. The Cathedral (1498) contains the Cappella del S. Sudario, a high-domed round chapel of brown marble, where the sov- ereigns of Savoy are buried. La Consolata ch. contains a revered image of the Virgin. Tlie palaces and arcades of the Piazza dello Statuto were erected by an English companj^ and sur-

ITALY. Bergamo. 353

round a memorial of the Fr§jus Tunnel. There are many fine statues and groups in the squares, honoring Italian notables. The University, a vast Renaissance palace, has 1,500 students, and a library of 200,000 volumes. See Oivic Museum of Fine Arts (daily, ex. Mon., 10-4, Wed. and Fri., 1 1., other days free) ; Museum of Indus- trial Arts; House of Tasso; house where Cavour died; Royal Theatre; Ch. of Gran Madre di Dio; Monmihents of Cavour, Vic- tor Emanuel, and PMlWert; the great Carig- nano Palace; the favorite PuUic Garden, with chateau of II Valentino; handsome granite bridge; Arsenal; Citadel; Corpus Domini ch., richly decorated; S. Rocco; S. Andrea; Walden- sian Temple; Capuchin Monastery and the curi- ous Mole Antonelliana. The Cemetery, 1^ M. N. E., has tombs of Silvio Pellico, Massimo d'Azeglio, Gioberti, etc. La Superga, on a hill E. of Turin, viewing city and Alps (Monte Rosa), is a splendid ch., built in 1717, with the tombs of Sardinian kings. The Valleys of the Wal- denses are 30-40 M. S. W. of Turbin.

From Turin you may go to Milan by Novara (Sempione; Italia), a large Piedmontese mar- ket-town, where Peter Lombard was born in 1100. The ancient church has columns of an older pagan temple.

Turin to Venice, 257 M. Take morning train. Fine scenery and interesting cities. Bergamo {Modcrne; Italia) is a prosperous fortified provincial and episcopal capital (48.000 inhab.). Aristocratic and governmental Old Tov:n on hill, with Castle above it ; commercial yew Toicn be- low. About the Piazza Garibaldi, Cathedral, splendid Colleoni Chapel, Municipal Palace, and

354 ITALY. Brescia. — Verona.

quaint old Gothic Broletto palace. See very in- teresting Ch. of Sta. Maria Maggiore (1173), containing tomb of Domzetti ; Accademia Car- rara, with over 20O ancient paintings ; statue of Torquato Tasso; vast buildings, with 600 shops, for annual Fair (Aug. 15-Sept. 15). Excursions to Vols Brembana and Serviana, and Lake of Iseo.

Brescia (Alhergo d'ltalia; Gamhero; Brescia) makes famous arms, silks, cloths (70,000 in- hab.) ; was a Gaulish town; a Roman colony; Milan's rival in the 16th century ; sacked by Gaston de Foix in 1512 ; a Venetian garrison. 1517-1797; bombarded by Austrians in 1849. Beautifully situated at foot of the Alps, sur- rounded by walls and overlooked by a castle. The Cathedral (built 1604-1825) is of marble, with vast dome. Near by is La Rotonda, the old cathedral (9th century), round, with dome and crypt. See chs. of *S'. Afra, S. Clemente, and ;S^. Tslazzaro e Celso, rich in pictures; Pina- coteca Martinengo (10-3, week days 1 1., Sun. free) with notable sculptures and paintings ; Museo Patrio (10-3 daily), Roman relics, in a temple built by Vespasian, a.d. 72 ; 15th century Municipal Btiilding, richly carved ; Mediaeval Museum in two old churches. Lake of Garda, see page 301.

The rly. to Venice passes Desenzano, whence by carriage to Solferino, where a chapel contains bones of 7,000 soldiers slain in the battle (1859) ; runs along S. shore of Lake of Garda, with lovely views; through the fortress of Peschiera; to thriving

Verona (Colomha d'Oro; Gran Hotel di Lon- dra), on the edge of the Tyrol, on a rich plai^

ITALY. Verona. 355

(78,000 inhab.). First a Gaulish town, 350 B.C.; then a Roman fortress; capital of the Gothic empire ; one of Charlemagne's chief towns ; a republic ; capital of the Scaligers ; Venetian ap- panage for 300 years ; Austrian garrison ( 1797- 1866) ; and Italian city. There are 5 bridges over the rapid Adige. Verona is surrounded with formidable bastioned walls and detached castles, built by Austria and lately strength- ened by Italy. Give a day to its wonderful memorials of Romans, Goths, Lombards, and Carlovingians ; chs. of rare interest ; and vener- able palaces. The. Cathedral is a stately 14th- century Gothic ch., with cloisters on red-marble columns. Huge pillars inside. Near by is the old 12th-century Baptistery ; also, Bishoifs Pal- ace, with colossal statue in courtyard, and li- brary. The Piazza delle Erbe, or vegetable and fruit-market, is a remarkably picturesque square, once the forum of the Republic, surrounded with frescoed palaces, and containing a tall marble pillar where stands a copy of the lion of Venice, the quaint Trihuna (or judgment-seat), the Municipal Toicer (330 ft. high), and fountain with statue of Verona. The adjacent Piazza dei Signori, with imposing Laio Courts (1183), pic- turesque court ; La Loggia, or Palazzo del Con- siglio (1500), with statues of Catullus, Corne- lius Nepos, Pliny, Vitruvius, Macer, all natives of Verona ; and statue of Dante. Nesfr the Ch. of Sta. Maria Antica are the very curious and splendid Gothic Tombs of the 8caliger family, who ruled Verona 1262-1389. S. Anastasia (1261) is an interesting Gothic church, with noble interior. The Arena, on one side the Piazza Vittorio Emamiele (formerly Br{i), is a

356 ITALY. Verona.

well-preserved Roman Amphitheatre, built by Diocletian or Trajan, and covered with earth and houses in the Aliddle Ages. The 72 arcades are leased to shop-keepers. It is oval, 1,584 feet around and 106 feet high, with 45 tiers, and can accommodate 95,000 spectators. The Porta de Borsari, a triumphal arch built by the Emporor Gallienus (a.d. 265), is on the Corso Cavour. See also two arches of Roman bridge; an arch near old citadel; and the Arch of the Lions.

S. Zenone, in N.-W, quarter, founded by Pepin (who was buried there), is one of the finest of mediaeval churches with rich marble fagade; very curious sculptures of Wheel of Fortune, etc. ; portal (1178) resting on red-marble lions; doors with brazen reliefs ; a grandiose interior, with alternate pillars and columns; tomb and statue" of S. Zeno ; and grand 12th-century cloisters. Near by, through cloisters of S. Bernardino, is Sammicheli's beautiful Capella del PeUegrini. Sammicheli also built the handsome Stuppa Gate (end of Corso), towards the Castle, now an ar- senal, once the palace of the Scaligers. The so- called Tomh of Juliet is a red marble sarcop- hagus, much visited by young ladies. See S. Fermo Maggiore, rich 14th-century Gothic ch. with walnut ceilings. Palazzo Bevilacqua, fa- cade by Sammicheli. Academia delle Belle Arte (1 1.), in imposing Palazzo Lavezzola Pompei, with hun^-eds of fine old Veronese paintings, Roman antiques, etc. Glustl Garden (50 c), with cypresses 500 years old, and commanding views of the Alps and Apennines; Cemetery, sur- rounded by Doric colonnade and the great Cas- tello 8. Pietro. Excursion to Trent, very interesting, and

ITALY. Mantua. — Piacenza. 357

thence down to Vicenza, by Roveredo (9,000 in- hab.), where Dante lived in exile.

From Yerona, you can visit Mantua and- Mo- dena, passing Yillafranca, where peace was made between France and Austria in 1859. Mantua (Aquila cVOro; Senoner) is a dull old fortress ' (30,000 inhab.), among lakes and marshes. Here Virgil (born 3 M. S. E.) lived, and Mantegna and Giulio Romano were born. See S. Andrea (1472), a vast ch. with many monuments and frescso ; Museo Civico in the Palazzo degli Studii ; spacious Cathedral; old Ducal Palace (1302), richly frescoed by Mantegna and Ro- mano ;* Accademia Virgiliana, with museum of sculpture (grand view of Tyrolese Alps from square) ; and Palazzo del Te, a huge palace out- side the Porta Pusterla, erected by Romano, and adorned with his greatest frescos.

From Milan to Mantua by Cremona (Capello ed Italia), on the Po (36,000 inhab.), succes- sively Gaulish, Roman. Gothic, Lombard, Aus- trian, and Italian, famous for its violins, and now a dull towm of wide streets and decay- ing palaces. See pictures in Puhlic and Royal Palaces (9-3 daily) ; German-Lombard Cathe- dral, with rich fagade and interior crowded with frescos ; Torrazzo (1261-84), a tower 397 ft. high, with arcades to Cathedral ; and nobles' palaces.

Piacenza (San Marco) may be reached hence by tramway ; or by rly. from Milan. This town (35,000 inhab.) was founded by the Romans, B. c. 219. See 13th-century Palazzo Municipale, with fine arcades, and equestrian statues of the Farnese princes ; 12th-century Romanesque Cathedral, frescoed by Guercino and Caracci ; 8. Francesco (1278), and Romagnosi's statue;

358 ITALY. Vicenza. — Padua.

S. Sisto (1499-1511), for which Raphael painted his noblest Madonna (now at Dresden) ; Palazzo Farnese, built by Vignola in 1558; Citadel (1547) ; and 8. Antonino, quaint vestibule.

Rapid tourists will hasten from Verona to Venice direct, passing through Vicenza {Tre Garofani; Roma), a busy town of 44,000 inhab., * surrounded with walls and moats, and richly adorned with buildings designed by the great Palladio, a native of Vicenza (1518-80), among which are Casa del DiavoJo; Palazzo Prefettizio, Teatro Olimpico (^ 1.), etc. Also Basilica, or Palazzo del Gonsiglio, grand open arcades around town-hall ; Barbarano, Tiene, and Valmarano palaces ; and Palazzo Chieregati, in which is Civic Museum (9-5 daily), with many paintings, etc. See Palazzo della Ragione, very rich Gothic, in the Basilica Palladiana; Great Tower (1446) ; palaces around Piazza de' Signori; quaint old bridge, rivalling the Rialto ; dull Gothic Cathe- dral; S. Corona, with priceless pictures'; 8. Lo- renzo. On Mt. Berico, pilgrimage-ch. of Ma- donna del Monte (1428), approached by arcade of 180 pillars (2,145 ft. long). 1^ M. out is Villa Rotonda, Palladio's work, surrounded by Ionic colonnades.

Padua {Stella d'Oro; Croce d'Oro), a univer- sity town between Vicenza and Venice, has 80,- (XX) inhab., and stands on a rich plain, embow- ered in gardens. From a distance its domes and towers and old bastioned walls and bastions present a noble appearance; but within it ap- pears almost deserted. Its foundation is at- tributed to Antenor, after the siege of Troy ; and in the Augustan age it was the chief city of North Italy. Alaric and Attila both sacked it;

ITALY. Padua. 359

and it was Venetian, 1402-1797, Ih 14th cen- tur5% Padua had more artists than any city (Giotto, etc.). The University, founded in 1238, was long the best in Europe, with 18- 20,000 students. Galileo was a professor ; Dante, Petrarch, and Tasso were students. It is still famous, and occupies a handsome old palace, with spacious arcades. On a promenade is a long line of statues (2 by Canova) of illustri- ous graduates, Savonarola, Giotto, etc. II Santo, the vast Ch. of S. Antonio (1296-1475), 300 ft. long and 123 ft. high, . is crowded with paintings, bronzes (by Donatello), and monu- ments (Bembo, Contarini), and has large clois- ters. Tame calls it an Italian-Gothic building, decorated with Byzantine cupolas, in which round domes, noble Greek tov^'ers, little columns surmounted by ogival arcades, a fagade bor- rowed from Roman basilicas, and notions copied from Venetian palaces mingle the ideas of sev- eral centuries and countries. In front, see Dona- tello's equestrian bronze statue of Gattamelata, a Venetian general ; and on the S., Scuola del Santo, a hall with famous frescos by Titian. /S*. Giustina (1549). a stately ch., often destroyed and rebuilt, with marble floor and rich choir- stalls. Near by, see Botanic Garden (oldest in Europe) ; and huge old monastery (now a hos- pital.) The Arena Chapel (1303) is filled with very precious frescos by Giotto (visit at morn- ing, 50 c). Near by, see Eremitani Ch. (1276- 1300), with monuments, and a chapel frescoed by Mantegna ; and Scuola del Carmine, a bap- tistery with Titian's frescos. See Cathedral bap- tistery (1260), frescoed in 1380; 11th-century Pallazzo della Ragione. with imniense hall,

360 ITALY. Venice.

largest known single roof, and 400 frescos ; Palazzo del Podestd and campanile; and Civic Museum, many paintings. Quiet old Padua may well be the object of a day's excursion from Venice.

Arrive in Venice at night, if possible. The last station is Mestre, whence the rly. crosses the Lagoon on a vast viaduct, 2 M. long, on 222 arches (built 1841-45; cost $1,000,000). The pas- sage by night seems a flight between sea and

Venice.

Hotels. — Grand Hotel Royal Danieli, in Pa- lazzo Dandolo ; Europa, in Palazzo Giustiniani ; Britannia; Grand Canal; Reg'ina; Bellevue; Moderne.) Restaurants. — Bauer: Gamhrinus; Savoy; Vapore. Cafes. — Fl^rian : Quadri; Or- ientale, all on or near Piazza of Rt. Mark. Gon- dolas (one rower) for 1-2 persons, 1 1. per trip, or per hr. (two rowers, double price) ; from steamers to Piazzetta, 40 c. Baggage 15 c. each piece. Hotels to call a gondola, cry out Poppe. Numerous small steamboats (vaparetti) ply regu- larly on the canals, answering to the street-cars in other cities ; fare, 5 c. and 10 c.

Venice is built on 117 islands in the Lagoon, with 150 canals and 378 stone bridges, and has 157,000 inhab., in maritime pursuits (commerce is increasing), and manufactures of books, mir- rors, jewelry, brocades, laces, and glass (one fac- tory is now 1,200 years old). It is 7 M. around, divided by the Grand Canal, shaped like an S, 2 M. long and 150-180 ft. wide. The Lagoon is a shallow lake, 25x9 M. in area, connected with the

ITALY. Venice. 361

Adriatic by 4 deep channels through long and narro\Y sandbanks, faced with vast masonry bul- warks. The main channels (23 ft. deep) admit the largest vessels. The tide rises and falls about Venice. A small canal is called 7'io; a street, calle or lista; a square, campo; small square, campiello; blind alley, co/te; quay, fonda- mento, or riva. An adequate view of Venice requires 8-10 days ; the chief sights may be vis- ited in 4 days. For sight-seeing, the city may be cut into 5 parts, — the region E. and S. of Grand Canal ; the Grand Canal ; region N. and W. ; S. Giorgio and Giudecca ; remoter islands.

The islands were first colonized by fugitives from the mainland towns, ravaged by Attila. In 697 the first doge was chosen ; and in 819 the present site of Venice became a capital. Dur- ing the Crusades the republic grew rapidly, and conquered the coasts and islands of the Adriatic and Levant. For 300 years its power was vast, and Venice was Europe's chief port. In 1508 its star began to wane. By 1718 it was quite de- cadent. In 1797 the French captured the city, which was afterwards annexed to Austria. In 1866 it became Italian.

The Piazza di San Marco is a square, 576 ft. long and 185-270 ft. wide, paved with gray trachyte and white Istrian marble, surrounded by time-stained marble palaces and St. Mark's Ch., and the picturesque centre of Venetian life, especially at evening, when the bands play, and the cafes are crowded by thousands. Flocks of fat pigeons have been fed here by the city at 2 p. M. daily for 700 years. The palaces enclosing 3 sides are the Procuratic Vecchie (N. side), built 15th century for home of the Procurators

362 ITALY. Venice.

(who ranked next to the Doge), and now used for business; Procuratie Nuove (1584), on S. side, now the Royal Palace; and isiuova Fah- hrica (W. side, built by Napoleon in 1810, and the home of Austrian viceroys until 1866), now connected with Royal Palace (hand- some rooms; fee, 11.). The palace arcades are occupied by cafes and hric-d-hrac shops. The vast isolated Gothic Campanile, dating from the beginning of the 10th century, was 322 feet in height. It fell to the ground on July 14, 1902, but a new campanile has been built, the first stone having been laid on St. Mark's day (April 25), 1903. Only one of the five bells escaped de- struction, but the other four were cast again at the expense of Pope Pius X., who was Patriach of Venice when the campanile fell. The pretty Loggetta of Sansovino was destroyed when the campanile fell, but it, too, has been restored. The Clock-Toicer (1496), across the Piazza, at entrance of Merceria, Venice's chief business street, has a huge bell, on which two bronze Vulcans strike the hours. The 3 lofty cedar flagstaffs between the towers used to bear the banners of Cyprus, Candia, and the Morea, kingdoms tributary to Venice.

The Cathedral of San Marco, on the E. side of the Piazza, is a magnificent piece of Venetian Byzantine architecture, built in 976-1071, in form of Greek cross, with 5 domes, 500 marble columns, and 46,000 sq. ft. of mosaics. Over the portal are 4 horses of gilded copper, of Roman workmanship, brought from Constantinople by Dandolo in 1204 ; carried to Paris, in 1797. as war trophies ; and returned in 1815. Below and all around, and in the great entrance hall, and

ITALY. Venice. 363

inside, are mosaics. 8 fine columns in vesti- bule; also, 3 red slabs commemorating the re- concilatioo of Barbarossa and Pope Alexander III (1177) ; and the ix>rphyry sarcophagus of Daniele Manin, last President of Venice (1848). The interior — Gautier's "a golden cavern, in- crusted with precious stones, at once splendid and sombre, sparkling and mysterious" — is 2.58x 210 ft. in area, with slippery and uneven 11th- centufy marble pavement, colored-marble pul- pits, marble statues (made in 1393) of Christ and the Apostles, Sansovino's bronze statues of the Evangelists, and sumptuous chapels. See high altar, with canopy of verde-antico, over tomb of St. Mark the Apostle ; altar behind it, with 4 spiral alabaster columns, 2 of which be- longed to Solomon's Temple ; Treasury, with Doge Morosini's sword, St. Mark's throne, a bit of St. John's skull, piece of True Cross, etc. ; Sacristy (mosaics and inlaid work) and Crypt, with 64 columns ; Baptistery, with bronze font and tomb of Andrea Dandolo (1354) ; Zen Chapel, with magnificent tomb, altar, and statu- uary ; Sansovino's bronze door, leading to Sa- cristy ; etc.

The Piazzetta is a small square, running from S. Marco to the Lagoon, on which stand 2 granite columns, brought from Syria in 1120, and sup- porting statues of St. Theodore and the "Winged Lion of St. Mark. On one side is the finely sculptured LWrej-ia Tecchia, built by Sansovino in 1582, and now part of Royal Palace. The great hall was frescoed by Veronese, for which Venice gave him a gold collar. Alongside is the old Mint, back of which is the Roi/al Garden. Opposite is the Doges' Palace, with fagade 246

364 ITALY. Venice.

ft. long, and fagade of 234 ft. toward the sea. It was built in 800, and 5 times destroyed and re-erected. Most of present palace dates from 1350. The red and white marbles, Oriental designs, and Venetian-Gothic arches, combine very richly. 36 columns in lower arcade, and 71 above, in the rich Loggia, with quaint capi- tals. Ascend Sansovino's Giants' Staircase, be- tween colossal statues of Mars and Neptune, where the doges w^ere crowned; and observe beautiful court,* with statues, cisterns, and part of Silvio Pellico's cell. Inside, the Sansovino's Golden Staircase; Hall of Great Council, 165x 84 ft., with portraits of 76 doges, 21 vast old historical pictures, and Tintoretto's "Paradise;" Sala del Scrutlnio, 39 doges' portraits, and many paintings ; Library, with famous MSS. ; Archw- ological Museum, 5 rooms of ancient marble sculp- tures; Sala della Bussola; Hall of Council of Ten; and many others, crowded with paintings, and rich in historical associations. Obliging guardians in all rooms, with plans, etc.

The Molo, headquarters of gondoliers, is con- nected with the busy quay of the Riva dei Schiavoni by a bridge, whence good view of Bridge of Sighs, leading from the Palace to the Prison (1512^7), and made famous by Byron (Ruskin blames his "ignorant sentimentalism"). You may visit the Pozzi, low dungeons where state-prisoners were deprived of light and (al- most) of air ; and see where the political execu- tions occurred, and bodies were given to the gondoliers. In the Arsenal (open 10-4), founded 1104, were built the fleets of the Crusaders, 16,000 men were once employed here (now 2,- 000). At portal are 4 marble lions, brought

I ITALY. Venice. 365

from Greece in 1697, once of which is said to have stood on Marathon. See military museum, Bucentaur, rare weapons, Henri IV.'s armor, Attila's helmet, etc. ,

Take gondola and visit chs. E. and N. of Grand Canal. People help you ashore at landings, and expect a penny. The great Italian-Gothic Ch. of Santi Giovaimi e Paolo is the Venetian Pantheon, filled with imposing mausoleums of doges, statesmen, and warriors (see those of Mocenigo, Bragadino, the Valiers, Vendramin, and Giustiniani ) , and valuable old pictures and statues. In S. transept is a window of stained glass (1473), which is rare in Venice. The ch. was founded in 1240; and the funerals of the doges always took place here. On adja- cent square, see ancient equestrian statue of Colleoni, a Venetian general. Close by is the richly carved Scuola di 8. Marco (1485), once headquarters of a charitable society, now part of a vast hospital. To S. Zaccaria (1457), a Romanesque ch., with paintings by Bellini, the doges used to go in solemn procession at be- ginning of Lent. S. Stefano, where Luther once said Mass, is 14th-century Gothic, with many statues and a beautiful cloister adjacent. See, in S. Maria del Orto (1481), splendid Tinto- rettos ; 8. Salvatore (1534), remarkable pictures ; S. Maria del Miracoli (1480), a Byzantine Re- naissance ch., encased in marble, with rich vault- ing; Gli Scalzi (1649), magnificent ch. of Car- melites, overladen with decorations of the De- cadence; 8. Francesco della Tigna (1534), rich carvings and chapels of nobles ; 8. Pietro di Cas- tello, Venice's cathedral from 1596 to 1807, with a fine campanile. A second trip may include

366 ITALY. Venice.

the chs. S. and W. of the Grand Canal. S. Maria della Salute (1631), whose high dome is conspicuous in pictures of Venice, a sumptu- ous ch., with many statues and paintings, ad- joining Patriarchal Seminary (with rich library and pictures) ; 8. Sehastiano (1506), with tomb (see Latin epitaph) of Paul Veronese, and sev- eral of his paintings, and organ designed by him; 8. Pantaleone (1668), very ancient paint- ings; 8. G-iovanni Elemosinario (1527), near Rialto; 8. Giacometto (820), a venerable basilica. The vast Italian-Gothic Frari, or Franciscan ch. (1250), contains many famous works of art, costly modern monument of gray marble to Titian, tombs of Canova (designed by himself) and of several doges and generals. In monastery adjacent 300 rooms contain 14,000,000 docu- ments, some dating from 883. 8. Rocco (1490, rebuilt 1725) has fine paintings. Alongside is the splendid Renaissance 8ci(ola di 8. Rocco (1415^1550), crowded with pictures by Tinto- retto (now sombre in tone), and with beautiful fagade, staircase, and great halls. This council- hall of charity is grouped with the Pisan Campo Santo and the Sistine Chapel, by art-lovers.

The Grand Canal should be traversed by gon- dola, between its lines of famous palaces. On the 1., see Dogana (Custom-House), with statue of Fortuna on tower; r., Palazzo Giustiniani (Hotel Europa) and Emo-Trdves (with Canova's Hector and Ajax ; fee, 11.). On the 1., Patri- archal Seminary and S. Maria della Salute. Thence the canal passes between palaces Tie- polo (Hotel Barbesi), Contarini, Ferro, Fini- Wimpffen, Corner della Ca Grande, and Bar- baro, on the r., and Dario-Angarani, Venier, Da

ITALY. Venice. 367

Mula, and Zichy-Esterhazy, on the 1., and then between Count Chambord's splendid Palazzo Ca- valli (r.) and the vast Palazzo Manzoni-Anga- rini (1.) and under an iron bridge. Close to this, on 1., is the Accademia delle Belle Arti (daily, 9-3, 1 1. ; Sun. free), with TOO fine pictures, mainly by Venetian masters, Titian, Bellini, Giorgione, Palma, etc., with some modern works, and many drawings by Raphael and Angelo, in noble old monastic halls. This is one of the great sights of Venice. Beyond (1.), see Palazzi Contarini, Rezzonico, Gkistiniani, Foscari (here the canal bends), Balhi, Pisani, etc., and on r.. Palazzi G7'assi, Moro-Lin, Contarini, and Moceniigo, the latter a triple palace, in which Byron wrote parts of Don Juan, etc. (1818), and where now is an art-collection. Farther on (r.), see Pa- lazzi Corner Spinelli, Cavallini, Grimani (Corte d'Appello), Farsetti (town-hall), 12th-century Loredan (once home of King of Cyprus), Dan- dolo (Gothic), Bembo, and Manin (now Na- tional Bank). Then, half-way through the canal, comes the famous

Rialto, a bridge of one Istrian-marble arch (1588-91), covered with shops, and running from the fruit-market to the fish-market. Be- low (1.), see Renaissance Palazzo de' Camer- lenghi (1525), opposite ponderous Fondaco de' Tedeschi, built 1506 (frescoed by Titian) for a German warehouse. Beyond Rialto. Pescheria (fish-market), on 1.; Palazzi Michieli and Sa- gredo, on r. ; Palazzo Corner della Evgina (now pawn-office), on site of Catharine Cornaro's home (1.). Nearly opposite is the Ca d'Oro, Ruskin's favorite, and a very noble palace. The Palazzi Fontana and Grimani are beyond (r.) ;

368 ITALY. S. Lazzaro.

also, Palazzo Pesaro (1,), whose rich halls are open daily (1 1.). Nearly opposite each other, see Palazzo Vendramin Calerghi, the magnifi- cent modern palace of Count de Chambord (open daily, 11.), and the Fondaco de' Turchi, once headquarters of Turkish mer'chants. Here see Correr Museum, or Museo Civico (9-3, 1 1., Sun. free) with antiquities, MSS., and paintings about Venetian history. At the Palazzo Labia the Ca- nareggio diverges to the r. Bej^ond iron bridge and rly. stat., the Grand Canal enters the La- goon, by the island of 8. Chiara. Near the stat. are the famous Papadopoli and Botanical gar- decca, with Palladio's Redentore ch. (Francis- 000 people, Goldoni, Rossini, Marionette, and Malibran. See Tintoretto's house, in the Campo del Mori ; and Titian's house, in the Sanciano. Just S. of the city are the islands of La Giu- deca, with Palladio's Redentore ch. (Francis- can) ; and 8. Giorgio Maggiore, with a great Benedictine monastery, cruciform ch. by Palla- dio, full of art-treasures, and campanile which gives superb view. Rather shabby Puhlic Gar- dens, S. E. part of city. 2 M. S. E. is the island jf S. Lazzaro, with great Armenian monastery. Excursions. — To the Lido (^ hr. by gondola; steamer in 12 min.), the beach on the Adriatic, with fine baths and summer-hotels. — To Mala- mocco, at S. end of Lido; and Chioggia, 30 M. S. an ancient lagoon- town (27,000 inhab.) — To the Cemetery, on 2 islands to the N., with S. Michele ch. (1466). Funeral processions of gondolas very interesting. — To Murano (4,000 inhab.), Ih M. N., with famous glass and mosaic factories, museum of old glass (40 c), a magnificent Cathedral (1111), and ch. of 8. Pietro e Paolo

ITALY. Fekraba. 369

(1509), a noble and simple basilica. The Mu- rano school of art preceded that of Venice. — To Torcello, 6 M. N. E. (2 brs. by gondola), once rich and great, now poor and depopulated, but with a wonderful 7th-century Cathedral, fa- mous for grand mosaics ; an octagonal Baptis- tery (1008) ; and ;S'. Fosca, a strange 12th-cen- tury Byzantine ch., surrounded by arcades.

Ferrara, Bologna, Modena, and Parma.

It is 101 M. from Venice through venerable Padua; Rovigo (Corona Ferrea), with its vast palace and picture-gallery ; and Ferrara, to "'ologna. Ferrara (Europa; Stella cVOro; Pel- ieynno), in a plain near the Po, has fallen from Its ancient glory, as shown by its many wide empty streets and crumbling palaces. In the golden era of the House of Este (1300-1600) it was famous for art and letters, and Ariosto and Tasso lived at its court. See Lombardic Cathedral (1135), imposing fagade. many pic- tures, and handsome campanile (1550) ; 8. Bene- detto, with painting of Paradise, in which Ariosto had his portrait introduced : S. Fran- cesco, several domes ; S. Maria in Vado, very ancient; >S'. Paolo; monuments to Ariosto and Savonarola ; houses of Ariosto and Guarini ; University, with library of 100,000 vols. (MSS. of Pastor Fido, and parts of Gerusalemme and Orlando Furioso), museum, and tomb of Ariosto; St. Anna's Hospital, where Tasso was impris- oned 7 years in a cell, since visited by Byron, Lamartine, and Goethe; and Palazzo de' Dia- manti (1493-1567), with the Civic Picture-Gal- lery (open 9-3, free), 8 rooms filled with an-

370 ITALY. Bologna.

cient paintings. The Castle is a huge old square fortress, iu the centre of Ferrara, with 4 tow- ers, deep moats, and frescoed halls. Is the scene of Byron's tragic Parisina.

Bologna {Hotel Brun ; Stella d'ltalia; Grand Hotel d'ltalie; Pellcgrino), capital of Romagna (135,000 inh.) stands on a rich plain near the Apennines, and is surrounded by brick wall, 3 to 4 M. around, with 12 gates. An Etruscan town ; conquered by Gauls ; allied with Car- thage ; occupied by Rome, b. c. 190 ; then Greek, Lombard, Frank ; a free town under Charle- magne; anti-imperial (Guelph) ; annexed to States of the Church in 1512, and to Italy in 1859. Its splendid Roman temples, theatres, and baths were swept away by the barbarians. It was the seat of the art-school of the Caracci ; and the home of Francia, Albano, Domenichino, Guido Reni. and Guercino (see houses of last two ; and of Rossini, the composer, a native of Bologna). S. Petronio (1390) is a vast Tuscan- Gothic ch. (half finished), 384 ft. long, 156 ft. wide, with manj^ rich chapels, mural paintings, and sculptures. Fagade has many sculptures (made 1394-1525) of biblical subjects. Michael Angelo's statue of Pope Julius II. was broken in pieces by the i>eople (1511). Charles V. was crowned Emperor here (1530). S. Domenico contains splendid tomb of St. Dominic, with sculptures by Michael Angelo ; and tombs of Guido Reni and Elisabetta Sirani. The Univer- sity is in Palazzo Cellesi, with 1,400 students; library of 150,000 vols, (open 9-3), once conducted by Mezzofanti ; large museums of geology, an- tiquities, etc. It dates from 1119, and once had 10,000 students, and several female professors.

ITALY. Bologna. 371

The Academy of Fine Arts (open week days, 9-3. 1 1., Sun. 11-3, free), is one of the most famous in Italy, and has Raphael's St. Cecilia. The Museo Civico is in the Pahizzo Galvani (9-

4, 1 fr., Sun. and holidays free).

See, in *S^. Bartholomeo. horrible portrayal of martyrdom of St. Bartholome\Y ; S. Cecilia (1481), frescos by Francia, and nunnery of St. Catherine Vigri ; S. ^tefano, a group of 7 chs., with rare old Celestine cloister; *S'. Giovanni in Monte (a. d. 433), precious paintings; *S'. Vitale (a. d. 428), lately restored; and other very no- table and ancient chs. Also, Palazzo Publico (1290). ancient frescos, statues, chapel, and Bra- mante's staircase; Palazzo del Podestd (1201), where King Enzio, son of the Emperor, was im- prisoned many years ; Opiotcca, museum of weapons; leaning towers of AsiiicUi (1109; 272 ft. high: grand view of mts.) and Garisenda (1110; mentioned in Dante's Inferno); Archi- ginnasio (1572), town library (open 10-4). museum of antiquities, Galvani's anatomical lecture-room ; Palazzo Bentivoglio, lOth century, on site of old Castle; Palazzo Fata, and Col- legio di ^pagna (1364), frescos by Caracci ; Log- gia de' Mcrcanti (1294), venerable Gothic ex- change; Piazza Vittorio Emanuelc, and 8. Do- men ico; Palazzo Pepoli (1344), vast and im- posing; Palazzo Zampicri, with great picture- gallery (I 1.); and many other palaces; also statues of Victor Emmanuel II.. Galvani, and Minghetti.

La Montagnola is a plateau and public garden, with views of Bologna and the Ai)ennines. f M.

5. is *S'. Michele in lio.sco, orthopedic institute, formerly convent founded bj- St. Basil in 4th

372 ITALY. Modena.

century, in whose ch. and cloisters Guido and the Caracci left noble paintings. 2^ M. S. W. is the Madonna di S. Luca, a pilgrimage-ch. on strongly fortified hill, approached by arcade 1 M. long (635 arches; 100 years in building), and viewing Appennines and Adriatic. It contains portrait of the Virgin, ascribed to St. Luke, brought from Constantinople in 1160. On the way hither, visit La Certosa, a Carthusian mon- astery (1335), whose cloisters now contain very interesting Campo Santo (cemtery), with rich monuments, a statue-adorned rotunda, and a colossal lion commemorating the martyrs for liberty.

If you intend going S. to Rome, and thence N. along the Mediterranean, it is well to make a side-trip from Bologna to Modena (23 M.) and Parma (54 M.).

Modena {Alhergo Reale), an ancient ducal capital (28,000 inhab.), was once an important Roman town, where Antony besieged Brutus (b. c. 43), on the Via Emilia, from Rome to the N. A stately city, surrounded with ramparts, on which are promenades. See Cathedra] (1099- 1184), with Arthurian sculptures (1100), rose- window, monumental tombs, and lofty colon- naded crypt ; renowned Campanile, called La Ghirlandina (1224-1319), 335 ft. high, encased in white marble, with wooden bucket taken from the Bolognese in 1325 (Tassoni, who wrote a poem about it, has a statue near by) ; /S. Michele, in which Muratori is buried ; Begarelli's Pieta, which Michael Angelo praised; Public Gardens; and ramparts, with views of Apennines. The vast and magnificent Palazzo Reale (formerly Ducal Palace) has noble fagade on Piazza Reale,

ITALY. Parma. 373

and a courtyard surrounded by colonnades. See Library, 120,000 vols, and 3,000 MSS. (14th-cen- tury edition of Dante) ; cabinets of medals and gems, and archives; large gallery of pictures (open 9-3), many of which are copies, a fact v.-hicb the catalogue omits to state.

Parma {Croce Bianca; Concordia; Italia), founded by the Etruscans ; became Roman, B. c. 183 ; was Lombardic, a city of Charlemagne, of the Holy See, a Guelphic stronghold ; seat of the Farnese princes, 1545-1731 ; and capital of Duchy from 1815 until 1859. when it fell to Italy (46,000 inhab.). The Roman Via Emilia cuts through its centre; and dreary, silent streets diverge on both sides. Parma is sur- rounded by great walls, with 5 gates and a strong citadel. See Romanesque Cathedral (13th century), with notable crypt, rich monuments, and Correggio's vast and world-renowned fresco of The Assumption; Baptistry (119*3-1270), octagonal marble ch., with colonnades, quaint carvings, old frescos ; S. Giovanni Evangelista (1510), remarkable frescos by Correggio in dome and cloisters; Madonna della Steccata (1521), fine frescos, and tombs of notables ; Convent of S. Paolo (50 c), with Correggio's famous lu- nettes and Diana ; Farnese Theatre (50 c.) ; 8tra- dome. promenade near citadel ; and PuNic Gar- den, with an old Farnese chateau, richly fres- coed. The Ducal Palace {Farnese). founded 1597, has Museum of Antiquities and Picture- Gallenj (open 10-4; 1 1., Sun. free), with many famous works of Correggio and the Caracci, in- cluding Correggio's Scala and Scodella Madon- nas and St. Jerome (II Gioruo). The Library has 206,000 vols., and many Oriental MSS. Pic-

374 ITALY. Reggio.— Ravenna.

turesque old road from Parma to La Spezia, on Gulf of Genoa.

Reggio {Posta), between Parma and Modena, (20,000 inhab.), with notable walls, citadel, the- atre, and cathedral, fine chs.. and Ariosto's birth- place, is 9 M. from Correggio, the great artist's birthplace, and 4 hrs. drive from ruins of Ca- nossa, where Henry IV. of Germany made his act of submission to Pope Gregory VII. (1077).

Ravenna, Rimini, Ancona, Brindisi, and Taranto.

From Bologna it is 52^ M. to Ravenna (Roma; Spada cVOro; Byron), a Thessalian colony, once capital of Roman empire ; captured by Odoacer and Theodoric ; capital of the Gothic kings, 493- 552 ; thence for 200 years capital of Exarchs, or governors sent by Greek emperors ; taken by Lombards, and by Pepin of France, who gave it to the Pope ; Venetian garrison, 1440-1509 : and attached to States of the Church, 1509-1860. It is now a dreamy town of G2.000 inhab., very rich in early Christian art : and 5 M. from the Adriatic, of which it was once a chief port. Dante's Tomb (1482). a dome-covered structure, with carvings, contains the ashes (discovered in 1865. in ch. of *S^. Francesco) of the poet, who died here, in exile and under excommunication, in 1321. Byron lived at Ravenna 2 years, and wrote several great poems there. See site of the house where Dante lived ; in Piazza Vittoria Emanitele, tall columns with statues, erected by the Venetians in 1494, and colonnade of old ba- silica ; Cathedral, on site of 4th-century ch., with Sth-century minaret-like campanile, 6th-century tombs, and silver crucifix, and paintings by

ITALY. Ravexna. 375

Guido ; 4th-ceutury octagonal Baptistry, with otli-century font and mosaics (Baptism of Christ. etc.) ; ArcJiiepiscopal Palace. 5th-centiiry chapel, ^.j.OOO parchments in archives ; *S'. ApoUinare, built in 500 by Theodoric for the Arians, and given by Justinian to the Catholics, with round campanile. 24 columns from Constantinople, and many 6th-century mosaics ; *S'. V it ale. consecrated in 547 by St. Maximian, copied from S. Sophia, at Constantinople, octagonal, with massive pil- lars, many beautiful and brilliant mosaics of Justinian's time, Greek and Roman reliefs, and a dome of earthen vases bound together: Maii- soleum. of Galla Placidia, built 440 by Empress Galla Placidia, small domed cruciform ch.. with mosaics, and sarcophagi of Honorius and Con- stantius III. (the only Roman emperors whose tombs remain undisturbed) ; Acadcnnj of Fine Arts (9-2. 50 c), pictures by Ravennese masters, vases, bronzes; Museo Sazionale (9-3. free) and Lil)rary (open 10-2) of 50,0(X) vols., and many rare MSS., in old Monastery of Classe, which has frescoed refectory ; S. Niccolo (760), now- deserted; ^. Giovanni Euangelista (444). near rly. Stat.. 24 antique columns, and frescos by Giotto: remains of Palace of Theodoric: and many other old chs. and great palaces.

Outside the Porta Serrata is the tomb of Theo- doric the Great (530), a ponderous structure (now a ch.) covered with a block of Istrian stone 36 ft. in diameter. S. Maria in Porta Fttori. 2^ M. out, is an open-roofed basilica . (1096). S. ApoUinare in Classe (a. d. 534), 3 M. out, is a magnificent basilica, with 24 cipol- line columns, open roof, 6th-century mosaics, a noble altar, and portraits of 126 bishops of Ra-

376 ITALY. Rimini. — Ancona.

venna, from St. Apollinaris (martyred a. d. 74) to the present. Beyond is La Pineta, the fa- mous and venerable pine-forest, known to the Romans, praised by Byron, Boccaccio, Dante, etc., and covering many leagues ; it is now nearly ruined. Highway along coast to Rimini, 31 M.

The rly. S. E. from Bologna traverses Imola; Castel Bolognese; Faenza {Corona), a walled town of 20,000 inhab., with great citadel and potteries (whence Faience) ; Forli (17,000 in- hab.), at foot of Apennines, with fine cathedral and castles ; Cesena with handsome palaces and rare library ; Rimini (Leon d'Oro; Aquila d'Oro), a pretty city (33,000 inh.) and summer resort on the Adriatic, with magnificent classical cathe- dral, dilapidated Malatesta Palace, Roman tri- umphal arch and bridge, and house of Fran- cesca da Rimini (carriage thence, 15 M., to San Marino, capital of Republic of same name, the oldest government in Europe). The rly. follows the Adriatic to Pesaro, birthplace of Rossini, where there ate fine chs., a rich library, and the old Palace of Dukes of Urbino, once a bril- liant literary centre. Here Tasso wrote the Amadis. Distant 21 M. is Urbino (Italia), a town of 16,000 inhab., surrounded by sombre mts. Raphael's birthplace is shown ; also, grand Re- naissance Ducal Palace, and chs. rich in art.

Ancona (La Pace; Vitto?'ia) is built on an amphitheatrical hillside facing the Adriatic, and has 36,000 inhab., with high-placed semi-Oriental cathedral (columns from the Temple of Venus), colossal statue of Cavour, handsome palaces, and (on the Mola) triumphal arch reared by the Roman Senate, a. d. 112, to Trajan, and another in honor of Pope Clement XII.

ITALY. Brixdisi. 377

11-14 hrs. distant by riy. is Brindisi {Inter- national; Gentrale; Enropa; tolerable), once an important Roman naval station, and now the chief point of departure for the East Indies, on the mail-route from England to India. It is visited by steamers for Adriatic, Greek, Italian, and Levantine ports (3 days to Alexandria). Here the Appian Way ended ; and here Virgil died.

52f M. hence by rly. to Otranto, a port on the heel of the Italian boot (72 M.) from Bari to Taranto (Aquila D'Oro; Europa), with richly decorated Cathedral and strong castle. There is a museum of antiquities which may be visited with interest if time permits.

Ancona to Roine by rly., 183 M. Few tourists will go S. of Ravenna on this coast.

Bologna to Florence, 82 M., by remarkably picturesque rly. across the Apennines, with many very costly bridges, tunnels, galleries, and via- ducts, and down to the rich Tuscan plains (su- perb views). Pistoja (Gloho) is an ancient town of 13,000 inhabitants, at foot of Apennines, rich iu 13tli and 14th-century sculptures, and a favorite sunnner-resort for Florentines. Pistols are named from this town. Catiline was de- feated and killed near by. See, in 12th-century Cathedral, monuments, choir-stalls, and silver altar; Campanile, once a fortified tower; Italian- Gothic •Baptistery, of black and white marble: 8. Andrea, splendid pulpit (121)8-1301) and carved nrchitrave; several other rich chs. and massive old palaces; and suburban Villa Puc- cini, in beautiful gardens.

Pistoja to Pisa, 40^ il/.; to Florejiee. 21 1 M.

378 ITALY. Florence.

Florence.

Hotels; Grand; Florence; and Wafihinytoit : \eir York; Italic; de la Vlllc; Palace; du Nord; Metropole; d'Europe; Porta Rossa; Victoria; Alliance; Anglo-American; Minerva; Baglioni; Albion; Bristol; Grande Brctagne. There are also many excellent pensions where those mak- iHi? a long stay can live cheaply and well. Fur- nished apartments may also he had reasonahly. mc;ils being prepared at home, sent in from one of the trattorie, or taken in tlie restaurants.

Florentia was founded by the Romans, before Christ; ravaged by the barbarians; rose to great conunercial importance by 1100; suffered from centuries of civil conflicts and foreign wars : ruled by tlie Medici family, 1434-1 Tii7; by dukes of the house of Lorraine, 1731^1800; and was capital of Italy, 1804-70. Since 1870 it has fallen into decay and financial embarrassment, but is a favorite winter-resort, although the cli- mate is not very good, by reason of its vast art- treasures, natural beauty, and cheapness of liv- ing. It stands on a narrow plain, partly sur- rounded by the Aj^ennines and their foot-hills, and cut in two by the river Arno, which is nearly dry in summer. There are 200,000 inhab.

There is a summer school here (Aug. 1 — Sept. 15), open to foreigners, with courses in Italian language and literature, Florentine history, fine arts, etc. ; in addition to the lectures, visits are made to the monuments and galleries of Flor- ence and excursions to the environs. Fee for the lectures with right to participate in the excur- sions, 45 1. ; members of the classes have free admission to the nmseums and galleries.

ITALY. Florence. 379

The Piazza della Signoria, tbe central square, forum of the Republic, aud present business- centre, is adorned by bronze equestrian statue of Cusmo, marble lion, and Neptune Fountain, erected in 15G4-75, on site of Savonarola's mar- tyrdom. Here fronts the Palazzo Vecchio (built 1298), once capitol of Republic and palace of Cosmo I., and now town-hall, — a tall, massive, and formidable fortress-palace. Enter (by Ban- dinelli's statues of Hercules and Cacus) the courtyard, with Michelozzi's dainty arabesques.

. V^asari's fountain, Verocchio's statue of a boy. The Hall of the Great Council was built in 1495, at Savonarola's order. Italian Parliament sat here, 18G5-70. Vasari and others made many of the frescos ; and two very famous cartoons were drawn by Leonardo and Angelo, for this hall. See Hall of the Two Hundred, used by town-council; Hall of the Lilies, with rich mar- ble work ; and Medici apartments. Campanile built by Arnolfo de Cambio, 308 ft. high (430 stei)s), gives a grand view. Its bell was the lallying-sound in the civil wars. In front is the Loggia dei Lanzi, a very graceful arcade built in 187(> for Cosmo's guards of lancers ; later, a tribune whence the people were harangued; and now containing celebrated statues, — Benvenuto Cellini's "Perseus," Donatello's "Judith,"' Gio- vamii da Bologna's "Hercules," etc. Alongside Palazzo Vecchio, see Palazzo iJpuccionc, planned by Raphael ; oi)posite which is new Pal- azzo Fenzi, in Early Florentine style. Between Vecchio and Loggia, enter Portico dcf/li L'ffizi, built by Vasari, 15r>0-74, with marble statues of 24 famous Tuscans. On r., entrances to Mint,

now Post-0 fficc; on 1., to the world-renowned

380 ITALY. Florence.

Uffizi Gallery (open 10-4, adm. 1 1., Sundays free; catalogues, 3^ 1.), the vast art-collections made by the Medici and Lorraine dynasties. See 'Niohe Halh antique statues of Niobe and ber children ; hall of portraits of painters, made by themselves; Tribima, with Venus de Medici, Wrestlers, Apollino, and many celebrated paint- ings; cabinets of gems, cameos, bronzes, and vases ; vast collections of Flemish, German, Dutch, and Yenetinn pictures; and masterpieces of Raphael, Titian, Correggio, etc. The Ya- tional Lihrary (open 10-4) has 480,000 vols., 18,- 000 MSS., rare books, and the great Tuscan archives.

The grand and massive Pitti Palace, S. of the Arno. was begun in 1440, on Brunelleschi's plans, for the merchant Pitti, whose heirs sold it in 1559 to the Medici, who made it their home, and had Yasari join it to the Palazzo Yecchio by a corridor 1,800 ft. long (now filled with rare drawings by Italian masters). The Pitti is oc- casionally occupied by the king. Its front (121 ft. high) is of enormous blocks of stone, 20-25 ft. long. On the second floor is a gallery (Gal- leria Palatum, open 10-4, 1 1., Sun., free)^ of 500 fine old pictures, in 13 magnificent saloons, richly frescoed and adorned with tables and cabinets of marble, alabaster, malachite, and mosaic. Here are some of the best works of Raphael, Titian, etc. The Boboli Garden (open free Thurs. and Sun., 12-6), back of the palace, was laid out in 1500. and its hill-terraces connnand noble views of Florence (especially from Belve- dere). See ampitheatre, grotto, obelisk, Nep- tune's statue (by Giovanni da Bologna), etc. Near the Pitti is the extensive and valuable Mu-

ITALY. Floeence. 381

seum of Physics, with Galileo's first telescopes, and one of his fingers ; also rare botanical col- lections.

The Academy of Fine Arts (open 10-4, 1 1.; Suns, free) contains schools of design, painting, architecture, music, mechanism, chemistry, etc., and a noble collection of old religious pictures showing the development of Tuscan art. The lower halls contain modern paintings. The court is decorated with reliefs by Luca della Robbia. In second court is Michael Angelo's celebrateil statue of David. Florentine Mosaic-factory in same building (museum open daily). Close by. in cloisters of the ^caizo, fine frescos by An- drea del Sarto ; also Medicean Casino, built 1570. In same square is Ch. of 8. Marco (1290). with many pictures and statues, and tombs of Politian and Pico della Mirandola. Next door is the famous old Dominican Monastery of S. Marco, now occupied by a museum (open 10-4, 1 1.; free Sun.; guide-book. 1^ 1.) of choice works of old masters, great number of frescos by Fra Angelico, etc., in cloisters, cells, and refec- tory. See cell of Savonarola. Fra Angelico. Fra Bartolommeo. St. Antoninus, and Politian were monks here. The Accadeniia dclJa Cra.sca, founded in 1582 to preserve the purity of the Italian language, is established here.

The National Museum (open 10-4, 1 1. : Sun. free) has a hall of mediiTeval bronzes, with Gio- vanni da Bologna's celebrated "Mercury," Dona- tello's "David," "St. George," and 8 other works : Carrand collection of paintings ; a collection of weapons ; statuary by Angelo, Baudinelli, etc. ; ancient furniture ; faience ; celebrated frescos by Giotto, in old chapel ; rich terra-cottas ; stained

382 ITALY. Florence,

glass, etc. It is in the Palazzo del Podesta. or II Bargello, built 1256 for the Florentine chief magistrate ; fortified 1317 ; and often assailed bv the populace. The curfew was sounded from the campanile. The prisons and torture-rooms were here. See picturesque court.

The Cathedral of *S7o. JlJaria del Fiore (so called from the lily in the arms of Florence), one of the grandest Gothic chs. of Europe, was built 1294-1474. by Arnolfo, Giotto, Gaddi and Orcagna, on site of older ch. of S. Reparata, and is 556^ ft. long, and 342 ft. wide (at transepts), with walls of beautiful white and colored mar- bles. The nave is 154 ft. high. Beautiful porch on Via Ricasoli, with pillars resting on backs of lions, and over the door statues by Donatello and Jacoix) della Querela. The interior is impres- sive, but simple, with huge pillars flanking the lofty nave, rich marble-mosaic pavement, and stained windows. See Jacoix) della Quercia's "Madonna," Uccello's frescos, Gaddi's mosaics, Angelo's "Entombment;" bronze doors, by Luca della Robbia ; statues, portraits, and tombs of many celebrated Florentines. It is a perfect treasure-house of art. The stained glass was de- signed by Ghiberti and Donatello, and made at Lubeck. The Dome, 352 ft. high, made bv Bru- nelleschi (1421-36) is higher than that "^of St. Peter's, and may be ascended (463 steps; 57 more to the Cross; fee, 11.). Interesting de- tails, and grand view. King Victor Emmanuel laid foundations of new main fagade in 1860. In this ch. Giuliano de' Medici fell under the dag- gers of the Pazzi ; the Greek Emperor offered to become Catholic; and Fretlerick II. of Germany knighted many of his fierce captains. In the

ITALY. Florence. 383

Opera del Duomo is the Cathedral Museum (10- 3. 50c., Sun., free).

The Italian-Gothic Campanile, the most mar- vellous bell-to\yer in the world, is Giotto's noblest work (1334-36). It is 292 ft. high, in 4 stories, of which the uppermost is superbly decorated, with delicate tracery around windows and many statues and reliefs by Giotto, Dona- tello. and other masters. The tower is built of variegated marbles. Fee to ascend, 1 1. Noble view of Florence and Apennines ( 414 steps ) . Alongside is the famous ch. of the 2Ii$cricordia, whose cowled brethren are often seen upon the streets. and opposite is the Canonry, with statues of Arnolfo and Brunelleschi. See Sas.so di Dante, near by, a stone on which Dante used to sit.

The Baptistry of S. Giovanni (6th Century), opposite the Cathedral, is an octagonal marble ch., 94 ft. in diameter, with dome. Until 1128 it was used as a cathedral. Here are Ghiberti's celebrated bronze doors (1408-52), with 10 Old- Testament scenes, and 28 from life of Christ and early Church history. Michael Angelo de- clared these worthy to be the gates of Paradise (see also George Eliot's Romola). At the sides are two porphyry columns, given by Pisa in 1200. Bronze door on S., scenes from life of St. John, made by Andrea Pisano (1408-30). Inside are many statues, dim old mosaics, Oriental- granite columns, and tomb of Pope John XXIII. S. Annunziata (1250) contains Andrea del Sar- to's best works, sumptuous chapels, and clois- ters. iS. Croce, built (1294-1442) by Arnolfo and Vasari, is an imposing cruciform basilica, with modern fa(;ade of black and white marbles (1863), high tower, and rich cloisters and re-

384 ITALY. Florence.

fectory (many paintings). In this vast old Flo- rentine Pantheon are the tombs of Galileo, Mi- chael Angelo, Macchiavelli, Raphael Morghen, Lanzi, Cherubini, Ugo Foscolo, and other great men; and monuments to Dante and Alfieri. Rare treasures of art, including many frescos by Giotto. In front, see noble modern statue of Dante. 8. Lorenzo^ consecrated by St. Ambrose in 393, and rebuilt by the Medici in 1425, from Brunelleschi's and Michael Angelo's plans, is a sumptuous Romanesque ch., resting on 14 tall Corinthian columns, and containing tomb of Cosmo, "Father of his People;" and sculptures by Donatello, Brunelleschi, Michael Angelo, and Thorwaldsen. In new Sacristy are Angelo's Twilight, Dawn, Day, and Night, over the tombs of the Medici. The Chapel of the Princes (1604), erected by the Medici at a cost of $4,400,000, for their sepulchres, is a dome-covered octagon, lined with precious marbles, mosaics, and fres- cos. Adjacent, see Laurentian Library (open 9- 3; ^-11.), founded 1444 by Cosmo, in building planned by Michael Angelo. Priceless old vols, and 8,000 MSS., many of them rare, by Dante, Alfieri, Petrarch, Boccaccio, and of Virgil, ^schylus, etc.

S. Maria Novella (1278-1371) is a beautiful ch. of black and white marbles, with arcades, and attractive interior, on slender pillars. See Ghirlandajo's famous frescos, in choir; Brunel- leschi's crucifix, in Gondi Chapel; Cimabue's Madonna, borne in triumph by the Florentines from the studio to the ch.; Orcagna's frescos, in Strozzi Chapel, and in Green Cloister; vast Giot- tesque frescos, in Spanish Chapel; and Great Cloisters, the largest in Florence. See, also, in

ITALY. Florence. 385

S. Maria Maddalena, fresco by Perugino; La Badia, with ancient tombs and tall tower; Or San Michele, built in i.284 by Arnolf o for a corn- hall and made a Gothic eh. in 1337-55, with many statues by the great masters, and altar by Orcagna (1359); S. Trinitd (1250); Carmine (1422), with cloisters, and Masaccio's famous frescos (studied by Perugino, Raphael, Angelo, and Leonardo). See, also, Marucellian library, 70,000 vols.; Riccardian library, containing old- est MS. in existence (Pliny); houses of Ben- venuto Cellini, Dante, Ghiberti, Bianca Capello, Amerigo Vespucci, Galileo, Macchiavelli, Guic- ciardini, Andrea del Sarto; the great hospitals, decorated by the masters (especially Foundling Hospital, S. Maria Nuova) ; busy Mercato Nu- ovo; and interesting great Egyptian and Etrus- can Museum (open 9-3; 11.), in refectory of old Convent of S. Onofrio, vases, reliefs, imple- ments, etc., and fresco (1505) of "Last Supper;" and house of Michael Angelo (daily, 10-4, 50c.; Mon., Thurs., free), with museum of works and relics of Angelo.

There are scores of huge old palaces, mainly by illustrious architects. Among them, see Ridolfi (Rucellai), which was sacked by the people in 1527; AJtoviti, with marble portraits of famous Florentines; Corsini, very elegant, with large picture-gallery (open Tues., Thurs.. and Sat., 50c.) ; Strozzi, 3 vast fagades, a very perfect and imposing palace, with picture-gallery (open); Riccardi (1434), original and stately home of the Medici (see chapel and courts) ; FontehounL where Alfieri died; Spini, now municipal offices; Manelli (1565); Panciatichi, with picture-gal-

386 ITALY. Florence.

lery; and Torrigiano, with large gallery (open daily) and famous gardens.

The Arno is bordered by the handsome old quays of the Lung Arno, on both sides, and crossed by the picturesque Ponte Vecchio (1362), covered with shops; elegant Ponte S. Trinitd, built 1252; Ponte alia Carraja (1218), often restored: Ponte alle Grazie (1235); and 2 suspension-bridges. The Via del CalzajuoH. from cathedral to Uffizi. and Yia Tornabiioni are the busiest streets. There are many picturesque squares, adorned with statues and fountains.

Excursions. — The Cascine, a narrow park ex- tending 2 M. along the Arno, just W. of Florence, has favorite rambles and drives (military music, zoological garden, etc.) — Along the Viale dei Colle to Piazza Michael Angelo, a beautiful es- planade (dedicated 1875), with monument and bronze copies of Angelo's works. S. Miniato is a beautiful ch. on far-viewing hill on E., in Pisan-Florentine architecture (1013), with rich facade, mosaics, 14 great marble columns, open roof, notable crypt, niello mosaic pavement (1207), and finely frescoed sacristy. Charming view of Florence. — Bello Sguardo, just S. W. of Florence, commands a famous view over city and mts. — The Poggio Imperiale, once a ducal villa, now a nuns' school, is outside and above the Porta Romana. reached by fine avenue of trees. Near by is the tower which was Galileo's observatory; also, villa where he lived, 1631-42, and was visited by Milton. In adjacent villa, Guicciardini wrote the history of Italy. — La Certosa, 3 M. from Porta Romana, is a vast and fortress-like Cartnusian monastery, built 1341, from Orcagna's plans. Fine paintings, monu-

ITALY. Fiesole.^Arezzo. 387

ments, etc., in ch. cloisters, and chapter-house (11.). — Monte Oliveto, 1 M. from Porta S. Fre- diano, is a monastery (1334), whence grand views. — Villa San Donate (Demidoff), open Mon. and Fri. (51.).— Villa Careggi, 2. to 3 M. N., once seat of Medici and Platonic Academy. Cosmo and Lorenzo died here. — Poggio a Cajano, royal villa. 12 M. N. W. ; and Villa della Petraia. another royal residence. — Pratolino, former for- est-palace of Medici.

Fiesole, 3 M. N. of Florence, beyond convent where Fra Angelico dwelt, was an Etruscan city, and retains part of vast walls. See also Cathe- dral (1028), and old palaces adjacent; Francis- can convent, on site of Acropolis; ancient thea- tre (50c.) ; splendid abbey; and fascinating views of Val d'Arno.

Vallombrosa, 18 M. distant, among the Apen- nines, may be visited in a day. Vast abbey, founded 1050, now a school of forestry. One hour's climb hence to top of P7-atomagno, 5,323 ft. high, with noble view to Mediterranean. Excursion also to very picturesque Casentino region, and grand old abbeys of Camaldoli and Alvernia.

Arezzo, Orvieto, Perugia, Foligno, Siena,

From Florence we would recommend you to go to Rome by the shortest route, through Arez- zo, Orvieto, and Orte (195^ M.).

Beautiful mt. scenery on the long ascent to

Arezzo {Yittoria; Ingliilterra) , an ancient

Etruscan city which became an ally of Rome.

B. c. 310. Here Maecenas, Vasari, Petrarch, and

other famous men were born. It now has 18,000

388 ITALY. Perugia.

inhab. See Italiau-Gothic Cathedral (1177), with many pictures, tombs, etc. 8. Maria della Pieve. remarkable fagade; S. Francesco, inter- esting frescos; Museum, majolicas, bronzes, an- tiques; Abbey of S. Flora; old palaces, chs., and statues.* Cortona {Nazionale), another Etrus- can town, has Cathedral Museum, vast Etruscan walls, and fortress (superb view). Rly. runs near Lake Thrasymene and the lovely Val di Chiana. Orvieto {.Belle Arti; del Duomo; Pal- ace) stands on a lofty volcanic rock; and has a magnificent Cathedral (1290-1600) of black and white marble, with nave 111 ft. high, crowded with mosaics, carvings, shrines, and frescos by Luca Signorelli and Fra Angelico. The route hence to Rome leads by Monte Rotondo and Mentana, where Garibaldi was defeated in 1867.

A longer rly. route to Rome leads from Cor- tona along Lake Thrasymene (oO x 8 M. in area; near by Hannibal annihilated the Roman army, B. c. 217). to

Perugia {Palace; Brufani; Grande Bretagne; Belle Arti), once Etruscan, now capital of Um- bria (19,000 inhab.), with 103 chs. and 50 mon- asteries. See great 15th-century Cathedral ; S. Pietro de' Casinense, 18 antique columns, choir- stalls designed by Raphael; S. 8evero, with Raphael's first fresco; S. Domenico, tomb of Pope Benedict XL; Santa Maria Xuova with a number of frescos; University (50c.), founded 1320, with large gallery of Umbrian pictures, antiquities, etc.; Arch of Augustus, an ancient city-gate; Perugino's house; Etruscan cemetery; and collections in several palaces. Superb views over Tiber valley and Apennines. Assisi {Leone; Subasio), perched on a high hill, was the birth-

ITALY. Siena. 389

place of St. Francis, and has vast Franciscan monastery (fee, 50c.), and its wonderful Gothic double ch., with frescos by Giotto and Cimabue, and other treasures. Foligno has 6 interesting chs. Within 50 years it has suffered 4 severe earthquakes. The rly. thence to Rom& passes Trevi. Spoleto, and Terni (beautiful falls here).

A still longer route is from Florence to Siena (59 M.), passing GertaJdo. where Boccaccio died; and Poggihonsi, whence carriages to San Gimignano, with enormous walls, interesting chs., and many works of art.

Siena (Aquila Neva; Royal; Continental) . city of 25,000 inhab., celebrated for ancient school of devotional art, for pretty women, heal- thy climate, and purity of language. Sieges and wars innumerable have distressed it. See vast and superb 13th-century Cathedral, of red, white, and black marbles, abounding in sculp- tures and paintings, rose windows, choir-stalls, etc.; Library (1495), frescos by Pinturicchio and Raphael; notable Campanile, Baptistry, and Pellegrinajo hospital; S. Domenico, S. Fran- cesco, S. Bernardino, and other chs.; Oratory of St. Catherine of Siena; Institute of Fine Arts (open 9-3), with valuable Sienese pictures, in- cluding Sodoma's "Descent from the Cross;" Palazzo Puhlico (1293-1309), with many stately and richly furnished halls; Campanile, which Leonardo da Vinci admired; handsome Palazzo del Governo (1469), with 30,000 parchments, some dating from 814; Loggia di S. Paolo (1417); other palaces of noble period of archi- tecture; the Fonte Gaja and Fonte Branda : La Lizza, the promenade; the University; the Opera del Duomo, now Cathedral Museum. Ex-

390 ITALY. Rome.

ciirsions to UOsscrvanza monastery and Belcaro castle.

Rome.

Hotels. — Quirinal; Regina: Grand; Royal: Enropa; Excelsior: Michel: de Riissie; Majes- tic: Beau-Site; Eden; Palace; BertolinVs Splen- did; Mctropole; Britannia; Angleterre; Italic; Hassler (German); Anglo-Americain ; Marini; Campidoglio ; Laurati; Helvetia; Minerva; Mi- lano; National. There are also many good pen- sions suitable for a long stay.

Permits to visit Vatican and many villas and palaces obtained from hotel proprietor or guide, or from appointed officials. Get Baedeker's Central Italy, compact and practical; Hare"s Walks in Rome; Murray's Rome is good read- ing, but bulky; Hachette's Rome et ses Envi- rons is good.

Old travelers advise that mornings at Rome be given to the churches and palaces, and after- noons to the classic ruins and fragments of the Imperial city.

A visit to Rome is the most interesting experi- ence in the course of a European tour. No adequate idea of the city can be gained in less than 10 or 12 days. If the traveler can give it but 7 or 8 days, he should devote the time equally between the classic remains and the great churches and modern institutions.

Tradition ascribes the founding of Rome to Romulus and Remus, b. c. 753. It is probably much older. King Tarquin was expelled, b. c. 509; the republic lasted 480 years, conquering the Etruscans, Samnites, Gauls, Lucanians, etc.

ITALY. Rome. 391

B. c. 390 the Gauis took Rome. Then came wars with Carthage (b. c. 264-241, 219-202, and 149- 146); conquest of Corsica (238), Sicily (241), Spain (B. c. 197-178). Greece (b. c. 214-205. 200- 197. 172-168, and 146). Pergamus (129), Prov- ence (118), and Gaul (58-50). b. c. 29, Augus- tus Caesar became emperor. 47 legions garri- soned the vast empire. Constantine (324-337 A. D.) made Christianity the State religion, but removed the capital of the empire to Constanti- nople. Rome was sacked by Alaric, 410, then by Genseric, and finally by Odoacer (476). who ani- hilated the Roman empire. In 546 and 549 the Goth Totila took the city. Leo the Great (440- 461) and Gregory the Great (590-604) founded the papal power, which was solidified by Pepin (755) and Charlemagne (800).

Rome, "the Eternal City," the capital of Italy (520,000 inhab.), is on the river Tiber, 15^ M. from its mouth, and near the centre of the broad and desolate Campagna. The Tiber runs for 3 M. through Rome, with the low Vatican and Janiculan Hills on the r., and on the 1. the circle of the Pincian, Quirinal, Viminal, Esqui- line, Cselian, and Aventine Hills, surrounding the Palatine and Capitoline Hills (the last 7 are the famous "Seven Hills"). The space with- in the walls is about the same as in Aurelian's time, but 2/3 of it is in gardens and ruins. As in the Augustan age, it is divided into 14 Rioni, or wards. The ecclesiastical population is 7,500. Many of the streets are narrow and unattract- ive; but the Corso, Via Babuino. Ripetta, and a few others are filled with splendid shops and animated crowds. There are 7 bridges over the Tiber. The river often overflowed its banks

392 ITALY. Rome.— Aqueducts.

and made lakes of the lower squares before em- bankments were built.

The walls of Rome are of brick, 14 M. around, and 55 ft. high, and about IbOO years old, though restored by Theodoric, Belisarius, etc. There are 12 gates now open, and several closed. On N. is Porta del Popolo, built in 1561 by Vignola; next is Pinciana, closed in 1808, then Salara (closed), flanked by towers, where Alaric en- tered Rome; Pia, built from Angelo's designs in 1564, and breached by Italian batteries in 1870; Nomenta, closed since 1564; Tiburtina, long ago sealed up; S. Lorenzo, built by Honorius, over the Tivoli road; tne rly. gate; Porta Maggiore, part of Claudian Aqueduct (a. d. 52), made a gate by Aurelian, and a fortress by the Colon- nas, and commanding the Palestrina road; S. Giovanni, built in 1574, over Albano road; Asi- naria (now closed), where Belisarius marched into Rome; Metronia, closed; Latina (closed 1808), over Via Latina, to Capua; S. Sebastiano, with towers and pinnacles, over Appian Way; S. Paolo, at foot of Aventine, over road to Ostia. On W. bank of Tiber, Porta Portese, close to river; 8. Pancrazio, on Janiculan Hill, stormed by French troops in 1849, and ruined by their artillery; Cavalleggieri. close to St. Peter's, where the army of the Constable de Bourbon en- tered in 1527. and the French were repulsed in 1849; Fabbrica (closed) ; Angelica, over route to Monte Mario; and Castello (closed).

The Aqueducts give a noble idea of Roman architecture and bold conception, with their vast arcades running for leagues over the Cam- pagna. The Aqva Marcia. built b. c. 146 and restored in 1869, brings the purest of water

ITALY. Rome. — Piazza del Popolo. 393

from the Sabine mts., 56 M. away. The Aqua Claudia (a. d. 50) leads from near Subiaco, 58^ M. The Aqua Trajana leads from Bracciano, 35 M. The Aqua Virgo, built by Agrippa, for his baths, leads from a spring 14 M. out on the Campagna, and breaks out in the Fountain of Trevi. The Aqua Felice (built by Sixtus V., in 1585) leads from the Alban mts., 21 M. Rome is thus copiously supplied.

The Piazza del Popolo, the focus at N. gate of Rome to which the great streets Babuino, Corso, and Ripetta converge, is adorned with an Egyp- tian obelisk (set up here in 1589), fountains, and statues. S. i\laria del Popolo (1099), on haunted burial-place of Nero, has many prelates' tombs, rich paintings, and a beautiful chapel by Raphael. Two other high-domed chs. front on the Piazza. Hence ascend drives to the favorite Roman park and promenade, on the Pincian Hill (once Lucullus's gardens), with grand views. The Yilla Medici (1540) is now seat of French art-academy and collections (open 9-2. 2-5. Wed. and Sat. free). The Villa Borghese, outside Porta del Popolo, has lovely gardens, with Ra- phael's villa, and a casino devoted to sculptures (including Canova's Pauline Bonaparte) and paintings.

The Piazza di Spagna contains Bernini's Bar- caccia fountain; Pius IX's Column of the Im- maculate Conception (with 5 statutes) : the Pal- ace of Spain (Spanish embassy) : and College of Propaganda Fide (1662). The famous Spanish Staircase ascends hence to SS. Trinita de Monti (1495), a stately ch. with many paintings and charming music (by nuns). At foot of Spanish stairs, on left, is the house in which Keats

394 ITALY. Rome.— The Corso.

passed the last 4 months of his life, and in which he died on the night of February 23-24, 1821. A commemorative tablet is placed on the house on a level with the apartment occupied by Keats and his friend and devoted nurse, the painter Joseph Severn, who is buried beside him in the Protestant cemetery. This house is now owned by the Keats-Shelley Memorial Associa- tion, and was pinchased by a fund contributed by English and Americans. The rooms of the Keats apartment have been fitted up by addi- tional funds furnished by Americans and are devoted in large part to a library of the works, portraits, and other memorials of Keats and Shelley (open daily, 50c.). One of the rooms, furnished by members of the New York Stock Exchange, is dedicated to the memory of the late Edmund Clarence Stedman.

The Corso is over 1 M. long, on site of Via tlaminia. Leaving Piazzo del Popolo, it passes Palazzo Rondanini, with unfinished Pieta by Michael Angelo; Goethe's house (No. 20); great Hospital of Incurables (founded 1338); Palazzo Ruspoli (1586); S. Lorenzo in Lucina (in Pi- azza to r.), with tomb of N. Poussin; Palazzo Fiano ; Palazzo TeocloU; S. Silvestro in Capite (built 757-67), and English Gh. (1874) in side- street; old Palace of Knights of Malta: Palazzo Torlonia: and Palazzo Chigi (1526), with val- uable art-collections and library. Here opens the handsome Piazza Colonna, with the Column of Marcus Aurelins^ 95 ft. high, adorned with spiral reliefs of Aurelius's wars on the Danube. On one side see palace with fine Ionic columns from Etruscan Veil, beyond which is Piazzo di Monte Cittorio. with Italian Parliament House,

ITALY. Rome. — Palazzo Doria. 395

in palace built by Bernini. In front, note obe- lisk, brou-ght by Augustus from Egypt. Other two sides of Piazza Colonna are formed by the Palazzi Piombino and Ferajuoli. Farther down the Corso on little square, is very handsome Palazzo Sciarra-Colonna, with a fine picture- gallery. Farther on, opposite Palazzo Simonetti, see ch. of S. MarceUo (a. d. 499), with ancient paintings and Consalvi's tomb. Next comes (on r.) vast and splendid Palazzo Doria (open Tues. and Fri., M.), with large arcaded court- yard, and gallery of 800 paintings (catalogues in each room), including works of Raphael, Claude, Titian, Poussin, etc. Opposite is Palazzo Salviati, back of which is Colonna Palace. Be- yond the Palazzo Bonaparte (in which died the mother of Napoleon I.) is the Piazza cU Venezia. at end of Corso, on which fronts the imposing castellated Palazzo di Venezia (1455). which Pius IV. gave to Venice (now Austrian em- bassy). Near by, see Palazzo Torlonia, famous for its works of art; S. Marco (a. d. 325; rebuilt in 833), with mosaics and paintings; popular and gorgeous Jesuit Ch. of Gesu (1568-77), lined with costly marble, with columns of lapis lazuli and gilded bronze, many statues, and tomb of St. Ignatius Loyola. Adjacent is the former Jesuit monastery, with Loyola's cell, etc.

At the end of the Corso on the N. slope of lh& Lapitol is the Monument of Victor Em- manuel II., after the design by Sacconi, which was 25 years in building (1885-1911) and cost over $5,000,000.

The Tomb of Augustus (50c.), where Augus- tus. Marcellus (see Virgil), and other emperors and princes were buried, afterwards became a

396 ITALY. Rome. — Quirinal Palace.

fortress of the Colonnas, and a ring for bull- fights, and is now but partly preserved, near the Ripetta, or harbor for barges and steamers. The Palazzo Borghese (1590) is a huge and splendid palace, with arcaded courts. The pic- ture-gallery has been removed to the Casino of the Villa Borghese, outside of the Porta del Popolo (daily 10-4, adm. 11.; Sun. 10-1, free). In this wonderful collection see especially Dom- enichino's Sibyl and Diana, Titian's Sacred and Profane Love, Raphael's Entombment, Madonna, and Caesar Borgia, and Correggio's Danae.

The Quirinal Palace (1574-1605), on high and healthy ground, was a favorite summer-home of the Popes until 1870, since which the King of Italy has occupied it. Pius VII. was imprisoned here in 1809 by Napoleon; and here he died in 1823. See frescos in Sala Regia; Pauline Chapel, a fac-simile (in form) of the Sistine; Audience Hall; frescos by Raphael, Overbeck, etc.; and apartments of Napoleon, Emperor Francis I., and King Francis II. of Naples. In front is Piazza di Monte Cavallo, with obelisk, great granite fountain, and two famous colossal mar- ble groups, the Horse-Tamers, formerly in Baths of Constantine. Near Quirinal stands ConsuJtd Palace, now Government offices; Palazza Ros- pigliosi (1603), with casino (Wed., 9-3), full of priceless pictures, including Guido's Aurora; 8. Silvestro Ch., with Domenichino's frescos; mediaeval Milizie and Conti towers.

Beneath Ch. of Cappuccini tourists visit vaults containing 4,000 desiccated bodies of Ca- puchin Monks, many in robes, others used in ghastly decorations. In rear of monastery is Villa Ludovisi, along city wall, with Juno Ludo-

ITALY. Rome. — S. Makia Maggiore. 397

visi, Guercino's Aurora, etc., in its embowered casino. Across Piazza Bar'berini (see Ber- nini's Triton Fountain) is great and splendid Palazzo Barberini (1624), with noble halls, an- tique sculptures and Picture-Gallery (daily, 10- 5, 11.), containing Raphael's Fornarina, the so- called Guido's Beatrice Cenci, etc. In the great hall, see Pietro da Cortona's fresco, "The Tri- umph of Glory." The library was added to the Vatican Library in 1902.

On Piazza di SS. ApostoU, see ch. (555; re- stored 1872) with monuments by Canova; Val- entino, Odescalchi, and Ruffo Palaces; and Palazzo Colonna (1417), with splendid halls and gardens, antiques. Gobelins, and several halls filled with fine old pictures (Tues., Thurs., Sat., 10-3, 11.; names of pictures on frames).

The Baths of Diocletian, near rly.-stat., were once the largest in Rome, 6,000 ft. around, with 3,000 bathers daily. Built in 4th century by enslaved Christians. One of the great vaulted halls was made into Ch. of S. Maria degli Angeli, by Michael Angelo (1561). It is 350 ft. long and 96 ft. high, with 16 columns (40 ft. high) of Oriental granite. Houdon's statue of St. Bruno. Domenichino's wonderful frescos, and tombs of Salvator Rosa and Carlo Maratta. Other halls of the Baths are now military store- houses, etc.; as also is the Carthusian Monas- tery^ one of whose cloisters has 100 columns, and 'was designed by Angelo. A fragment of the Wall of Servius is in the rly.-stat.

The Patriarchal Basilica of S- Maria Maggiore is on the Esquiline, between 2 squares, adorned with an ancient obelisk, and a column 46 ft. high, with bronze statue of Madonna. First ch.

398 ITALY. Rome. — S. Prasbede.

here built by Pope Liberius (.in 352), on ground indicated by miraculous fall of snow in August. The present nave (297 x 57 ft.) built in 432-40, with 42 marble Ionic columns (from Temple of Juno), and 5th-century mosaics on architrave, walls, and arch. Impressive facade, with 5 por- tals, statue of Philip IV. of Spain, and interest- ing old mosaics. See high altar, a porphyry sarcophagus containing St. Matthew's remains, with canopy on 4 porphyry columns; Borghese Chapel, with altar of lapis lazuli and agate, and Madonna painted by St. Luke, Chapel (with 10 porphyry columns) containing manger-cradle of Christ; tombs of 6 popes; sumptuous Sixtine Chapel, and others. The first gold brought from America was given to the Pope by Ferdinand and Isabella, and used in decorating this ch. Like St. Peter's, this magnificent temple, so rich in gems and mosaics, should be visited several times.

Near by, see S. Antonio Abate, the ch. where domestic animals are blessed on third week in Jan.; Triumphal Arch of Gallienus (a. d. 262); S. E'liseMo, frescoed by Raphael Mengs; tower of Aqua Claudia; S. Prassede (882; restored in 1450 and 1869), wUh 9th-century mosaics, col- umn at which Christ was scourged, bones of Sts. Praxedis and Pudentiana. and Chapel of Garden of Paradise, with mosaics on gold; S. Piiclen- ziana, on site where St. Peter lived, with 4th- century mosaics (3,000 martyrs are buried be- neath); S. Martina ai Monti (500), a basilica with 42 antique columns, and frescos by Pous- sin; and S. Pietro in Vincoli (442), built by Empress Eudoxia to receive St. Peter's chains, with 20 antique Doric columns, fine bronze

ITALY. Rome.— Paxtheon. 399

doors, and Michael Augelo's famous statue of Moses.

The Pantheon is the best preserved of the old Roman buildings. It was built by Augustus's son-in-law, Agrippa, b. c. 27; burnt under Titus and Trajan; restored by Septinaus Severus and Caracalla; consecrated by Boniface IV., in 609, as Ch. of -S. Maria ad Martyres ; deformed by its 2 companiles, by Bernini; stripped of its bronzes by Urban VIII. ; and restored by Pius IX. Great excavations are now in progress, re- vealing Roman works and buildings. The vast round walls of brick, 20 ft. thick, were once covered with marble. The portico (now below, hut once above, the square) has 16 huge mono- lithic columns of Oriental granite, 39 ft. high, with Corinthian capitals of famed beauty. Stat- ues of Augustus and Agrippa once stood here. The circular interior is very impressive; and is lighted from a place 28 ft. across in the centre of the dome, open to the sky. This unrivalled dome is 140 ft. high and 140 ft. across. It was ascended by Charles V. in 1536. The gilded bronze roof-tiles were carried to Constantinople in 6.55; and all the other bronzes were used in making cannon for the Citadel and the canopy in St. Peter's. The 7 niches in which statues of the gods stood are now occupied by altars. Ra- phael is buried here, near his betrothed, Cardi- nal Bibiena's niece. Here also rest Peruzzi, Giovanni da Udine, Annibale Caracci, and Pe- rino della Vaga; and here is the tomb of King Victor Emmanuel of Italy.

The Gothic S. Maria sopra Minerva, back of the Pantheon, was built in 12S5 on site of Temple of Minerva, and contains tombs of Bembo, Fra

400 ITALY. Rome. — Paxazzo Farnese.

Angelico, Urban VII., Paul IV., Leo X., and Clement VII; Michael Angelo's Christ and many choice works of art. Adjacent Government building was headquarters of Dominican Order, in which Galileo retracted his statement about the earth's motion. Great library here, 120,000 vols, and 4,500 MSS. Close by, see S. Ignazio (1626), and Collegio Romano, in which is fa- mous Kircherian Museum of archeology (10-4 daily, 11; Sun., 10-1, free).

S. Andrea della Valle (1591) has Lombs of Pius II. and III., and Donienichino's celebrated Evangelists. Near by, see Palazzo Vidoni, de- signed by Raphael; Palazzo Massimi alle Co- lonne (1536) with statue of Discus-thrower; great Palazzo Braschi; Pasquino statue; ruins of Pompey's TheaU'e ; Chiesa Nuova (1605), with paintings by Rubens, monastery, and great library; Palazzo della Cancelleria. very elegant, designed by Bramante; busy Piazza di Campo dei Fiori; vast Palazzo Farnese (Mon., Wed., Fri., 10-3, 11.), built by Sangallo and Michael Angelo in 1534-45, now belonging to the French Government, and splendidly frescoed by Annibale Caracci (Triumphs of Ariadne and Bacchus); Palazzo Spada alia Regola (1540), with statues and reliefs (Mon., Wed., Sat., 10-3, 50c.); and many other famous chs. and palaces.

The great Piazza Navona has 3 interesting fountains, and is bounded by the Lancelloti, Ornani, Braschi, and Pamfili Palaces; S. Maria delV Anima (1514), German national ch., with mausoleum of Adrian VI.; and the Spanish na- tional ch. Near it is S. Maria della Pace (1484), containing Raphael's Sibyls (1514). Fine clois- ter (1504) adjacent. S. Agostino (1483; re-

ITALY. Rome.— Saxt' Axgelo. 401

stored in 1860) has tomb of Monica, Augustine's mother, and Raphael's famous Propliet Isaiah (1512). Adjacent is old monastery. In Piazza S. ApoUinare. see ch. (1552) with Perugino's Madonna, Seminario Romano school, and hand- some Palazzo Altemps. S- Luigi de' Francesi (1589), on square with Patrlzi, Madama, and Giustiniani Palaces, has many notable paint- ings. Near by is University of the Sapienza, founded 1303, and now having 4 faculties and a library (Alessandria) of 9,000 vols. S. of the Gesu, see many palaces and chs.; the Tor- toise {Tartariighe) Fountain (1585); Palazzo Costaguti (1590). with Albano's and Guercino's frescos; Palazzo Mattel (1616), with many stat- ues in court; Palazzo Cenci. where Beatrice Cenci lived; the Ghetto, pulled down in 1887, once the quarter of the Jews; Colonnade of Oc- tavia, built by Augustus in honor of his sister; Theatre of Marcellus (b. c. 13), 12 hugh arches only remaining; and palaces of the Orsini and Savelli.

From, the Bridge of iSt. Angelo to the Vatican. — The 5-arched Ponte S. Angelo was built by Hadrian (a. d. 136) and named Pons JJlius. 10 colossal angel-statues by Bernini (1688) adorn its parapets. At the end rises vast round parapets Sant' Angelo (10-4, 11.; Sun., free), built by Hadrian for a mausoleum (with colossal statue on summit), where the Antonines and other emperors and their families were buried. Later, it was a fortress, which repelled dreadful sieges, as when the Greeks (in 537) threw down its statues on the assailing Goths; and a prison, where Beatrice Cenci. Benvenuto Cellini, Cag- liostro. Pope John X. (suffocated here), etc.,

402 ITALY. Rome. — St. Peter.

were shut up. Very interesting interior, tomb chambers, inclined planes, cells, papal suite (where Clement VII. took refuge when Bour- bon's troops sacked Rome), and grand view from top, on which see bronze angel, commemo- rating Gregory the Great's vision of Archangel Michael sheathing his sword on this spot, after which the plague ceased to devastate Rome (hence name of castle). The castle contains a "Museum of the Genius of Italy," the exhibits being chiefly in the departments of war and en- gineering. A covered way runs hence to the Vatican. Near by is enormous Santo Spirito Hospital, for sick, aged, lunatics, and found- lings (open 2-4), accommodating nearly 5,000 persons. The Borgo Nuovo leads by several chs. and palaces (Giraud^ liicciardi, etc.), and the Piazza Rusticucci, where Raphael died, to the magnificent St. Peter's Square {Piazza di S. Pietro), 1110 x 840 ft. in area, surrounded by imposing Doric colonnades, built by Bernini in 1G67, and composed of 284 columns and 90 pilas- ters, each 41* ft. high. On the roofs are 126 colossal statues of saints. In center of square (or ratner circle) stands an Obelisk brought by Caligula from Egyptian Heliopolis, and set up here in 1586. At each side is a handsome foun- tain (46 ft. high). Entrance to St. Peter's in front; to the Vatican, to the r., at end of colon- nade. St. Peter's was built by Constantine (a. d. 326), on site of Nero's circus, where St. Peter was martyred, uharlemagne and many emper- ors and popes were crowned there. In 1450- 1626 the present ch. was built, having among its architects Bramante, Raphael, Peruzzi, Michael Angelo (from his 72d to 79th year), Fontana,

ITALY. Rome.— St. Peter. 403

and Bernini. It cost over $6U, 000,000; took 176 years (the reigns of 28 popes) to build; and covers 240,000 sq. ft., being the largest ch. in the world. Total length, 696 ft.; length of tran- sept, 450 ft.; length of nave, 619 ft.; width of nave, 88 ft. (height, i53 ft.); height of dome and cross, 470 fc; diameter, 141 ft. Fagade (finished in 1612), 369 ft. long, 165 ft. high, crowned by statues of Christ and Apostles, each ly ft. high. Portico, 234 x 43 ft. (66 ft. high), with colossal statues of Constantine and Charle- magne, Giotto's mosaic of La Navicella. and brazen central doors (made in 1447). Interior has 30 altars. i4d columns (mostly from ruins of ancient Rome) ; inlaid marble pavement (see stones showing length of other great chs.), bril- liantly gilded vaulting upheld by Corinthian pil- lars and piers, famous bronze statue of St. Peter entbroned, many colossal slatues of saints, vast inscriptions and pictures in mosaic, canopy 95 ft. high made by Bernini (1633) of bronze from Pantheon, high altar over tomb of St. Peter (which is approached by marble stairs and sur- rounded by 112 ever-burning lamps), wooden throne of St. Peter, many vast and beautiful chapels, tombs of the popes, many paintings by great masters, and statues of Michael Angelo, Canova. Thorwaldsen. See tombs of Maria So- bieski, several Stuart princes, Palestrina, Chris- tina of Sweden, etc. In Sacristy (1775). see 3 chapels, many rare pictures by Giotto, etc. In Treasury, see candelabra by Cellini and Angelo, Charlemagne's dalmatic, and rare jewels. The Criipfs are very interesting, with many chapels, niosiics. cnrvings. and tombs. 137 popes were buried in St. Peiers. Tlie Dome (open daily,

404 ITALY. Rome.— The Vatican.

8-11), 630 ft. around, rises 308 ft. above the roof (to which, 142 steps). Look down into ch. from inner gallery. Stairs between inner and outer dome to Lantern (grand view over Rome and Campagna), whence you may climb into hall under cross (large enough to hold 16 persons). Walk around the ch., outside, to see its vast pro- portions. At its side and rear, see ancient Ger- man cemetery and hospice; and Palace of the Inquisition (now barracks).

The Vatican, the largest palace in the world, adjoins St. Peter's, and has 20 courts and 11,000 halls and rooms. Pope Symmachus founded first papal palace here in 498; and Charlemagne dwelt therein. After return from Avignon the popes lived here, deserting the Lateran; and after 1450 the palace was enlarged by succes- sive popes, from designs by Bramante, Bernini, etc. Notice singular uniforms of Swiss guards, designed by Michael Angelo. Ascend splendid Scala Regia to Sistine Chapel, built and named for Pope Sixtus IV. in 1473, 133 x 45 ft. in area (best light at morning). Frescos by Signorelli, Botticelli, etc. Magnificent ceiling, frescoed by Michael Angelo (1508-11), Creation, Fall, De- luge. Prophets, and Sibyls, etc. On altar-wall, 64 ft. wide, Angelo's terrible and incomparable Last Judgment. See Pauline Chapel (1540), with other frescos by Angelo ;^a^a Dvcale, fres- cos by Brill; and Sala Regia. historical frescos by Vasari, etc. The Loggie are adorned with Bib- lical scenes, from Raphael's designs, and beauti- ful stucco work. Raphael's Stanze are 4 rooms containing the noblest frescos of Raphael (1508- 20), the Disputa, Parnassus, School of Athens, Heliodorus, Attila, Liberation of St. Peter, etc.

ITALY. Rome.— LuNGABA. 405

The Chapel of Nicholas V. has spiritual frescos by Fra Angelico (1447). The Picture-Gallery contains paintings taken by Napoleon from the Roman chs., and placed here when brought back from Paris. See Raphael's Transfiguration and Madonna di Foiigno, Domenichino's St. Jerome, and works of Leonardo, Fra Angelico, Titian, Guido, Murillo, etc. The Museum of Sculptures contains 1,800 pieces, including Apollo Belve- dere, Perseus of Canova, Laocoon, Juno, Min- erva Medica, Mercury, Torso, Penelope, Eros, etc. See also porphyry sarcophagus of Empress Helena; Braccio Nuovo hall, with 16 splendid ancient columns (alabaster, etc); Belvedere Court; SaJa delle Muse, with 16 Carrara-marble columns; Sala Rotonda, on model of Pantheon; Hall of Greek Cross; magnificent Tapestry of Raphael (1515-16), representing Biblical scenes; Gregoriaii Museum of Etruscan Antiquities, in 12 rooms; Egyptian Museum, 10 rooms; Library and Archives, 200,000 vols, and 34.000 MSS. (many of them very precious) ; Papal Manufac- tory of Mosaics, where 10,000 colors and shades of glass are used; and gardens of Vatican.

Stroll down the riverside. Lungara, nearly 1 M. long, joining the Leonine City (where are St. Peter's and the Vatican) to Trastevere. Pass- ing under Gate of the Holy Spirit, ascend to S. Onofrio ch. (1439), with tombs of Tasso and Mezzofanti. Adjacent monastery has Leonardo's Madonna, Tasso's cell and oak. Farther down Lungara, see fine Palazzo Salriati (now civic archives); Botanical Gardens; very beautiful. Villa Farnesina (1506). with Raphael's famous frescos of Psyche and Galatea; and Palazzo Corsini (9-3, 11., Sun., 10-1, free), with 9 halls

40G ITALY. Rome.— The Capitol.

of paintings, 8 of books and iMSS.. and a garden of rare beauty. Enter, by Porta Settimiana. into Trastevere *.from Trans-Tiber), a quarter whose inhabitants claim to be direct descend- ants of the ancient Romans. See 12th-century basilica of 5;. Crisogono. near which mosaic- paved and frescoed house of No. 7 company of old Roman (3d-century) fire department; Maria Trastevere, built by Calixtus I. (a. d. 217), with 22 antique columns, mosaics, etc.: St. Cecilia (a. d. 222), with mosaics, broad court, portico on African-marble columns, and tomb of St. Cecilia, whose house stood on this site.

On the Janiculan Hill over Trastevere, com- manding a noble panoramic view of Rome and mts., see S. Pietro in Montoiio (1500). on site of St. Peter's martyrdom, with many ancient paint- ings; Tempietto (1502) in court of adjacent monastery, with 16 Doric columns; Acqua Paola a magnificent old fountain, outlet of Trajan's aqueduct; S. Pancrazio Gate (fine views near); and Villa Doria Pamfili, a very lovely park and casino. This trip over the Janiculan Hill should not be omitted.

Between Trastevere and the Ghetto, in the Tiber, is the Island of S. Bart.olommeo (an- cient bridges from both shores), with Ch. of -S. Bartolom.meo (built a. d. 1000), with 14 an- cient columns, on site of a heathen temple (.T]sculapius was worshipped here). The island also has a large monastery, and a fountain- adorned square.

The Capitol is reached by asphalt stairs from Piazza Ara Goeli, with Egyptian lions at base, and marble Dioscuri (Castor and Pollux), or Horse-Tamers, at the top. See, also, the Tro-

ITALY. Rome. — Capitoline Museum. 407

phies of Mali us; antique statues of Constan- tine and Constans: and male and female wolves, caged. The Piazza del Cavipuloglio, planned by Michael Angelo and built by Paul III. (1536), has in its center the famous and unrivalled an- tique bronze equestrian statue of Marcus Au- relius. anciently supposed to represent Constan- tine. and placed before the Lateran from 1187 to 1538. The palaces on three sides were built or remodelled by Angelo. The Palace of the Conservators (r. side; 10-3, 11.; Sun., 10-1, free) contains halls of busts of celebrated Ital- ians, Latin sculptures, Etruscan museum, great halls with frescos from Punic and Cimbrian wars, and a gallery of 200-300 paintings. In tlie Capitoline Museum (1. side; 10-3, 11.; Sun.. 10-1, free) see Marforio, the colossa,! river-god, and sarcophagi; halls of bronzes and urns; an- cient marble plan of Rome; exquisitely fine mosaics of Doves of Pliny; 82 antique busts of emperors; antique statues of the philosophers and gods; and vast number of famous classic sculptures, including Capitoline Juno, Amazon, Antinous, rosso-antico Faun, Dying Gladiator, and Capitoline Venus (in closed cabinet). The Palace of the Senator, at end of square, was built in 1389, and adorned by Michael Angelo. It is now the townhall. The campanile (1572) commands a fine view, and contains great bell. Just S. E. is the Tarpeian Rock. Streets lead from Capitol down into Forum. High over Capitol (long stairway), on site of Temple of Jupiter, is 9th-cent. Ch. of N'. Maria in Ara Coeli. with homely front, and interior adorned with 22 antique columns of assorted sizes, many paintings, chapel of the Bambino, tomb of St.

408 ITALY. Rome. — Teajan's Column.

Helena, etc. Adjacent is splendid Franciscan monastery (1251), with two courts, now a bar- rack. While hearing the monks chant in Ara Cceli (1764), Gibbon conceived the idea of his famous history.

The Mamertine Prison, between Ara Cceli and Forum, was built by the early kings of Rome, very massively. Here were slain Jugurtha, Vercingetorix, Joras, and Catiline's allies; and here St. Peter was imprisoned (they show pil- lar to which he was chained).

Between the Forum and Tiber, see round 7th- century Ch. of *S. Teodoi'o; temple of Janus Quadrifrons, built in Constantine's time; 4th- century basilica of 8. Giorgio in Velahro. with antique columns; Arcus Argentarius, built by merchants of adjacent Forum Boarium (cattle- market) to Septimius Severus; mouth of great sewer of Cloaca Maxima; 3d-century ch. of S. Maria in Cosmedin, on site and with columns of Kmg Servius's Temple of Fortune, and with handsome 8th-century campanile; round temple (of Vesta, or Hercules), surrounded by 19 (once 20) Corinthian columns; pretty little Ionic tem- ple, now Ch. of /S. Maria Egiziaca; House of Rienzi (10th-century) ; and Ponte Rotto {Pom JEmilius) , with suspension-bridge filling place of arches swepc away in 1598, leading to Tras- tevere

Trajan's Column, 87 ft. high (138 ft. with base and statue of St. Peter), is surrounded with a spiral bas-relief, '6 ft. wide and 660 ft. long, on which are 2,500 human figures, illustrating events of Dacian war. Trajan was buried be- neath. Stairs inside to top. Close by, see re- mains of vast Basilica Ulpia, built a. d. 111-114,

ITALY. Rome.— The Forum. 409

by Apollodorus of Damascus, for Trajan, and once the grandest building in Rome. See, also, chs. of Nome di Maria (1683) and Loreto (1507). Near by are fragments of Forum of Augustus, of which a massive wall, 450 ft. long, and 3 columns of Temple of Mars Ultor remain. The Academy of St. Luke (open 9-6) contains statu- ary by Canova and Thorwaldsen, and many fine old paintings, including veiled pictures by Tit- ian, etc. This is a choice collection. Near by is an imposing fragment of Nervals Forum.

The Palace of the Caesars consists of enor- mous ruins on the Palatine, the original site of early Rome, where dwelt Evander, Romulus, Catiline. Cicero, Augustus, Tiberius. Vespasian, Odoacer, Theodoric, etc. In the early part of the 19th century Palatine was a hill of vine- yards, with convents, but the emperors of Rus- sia and France began excavations, which Italy has continued (open daily, 11.; Sun. free). Enter from Forum, and see Museum, with arti- cles found here; foundations of Caligula's pal- ace; parts of Tiberius's palace; handsome pri- vate house of Livia, with mural paintings; Flavian palace, built by Vespasian; platform of Temple of Jupiter Victor; colonnades; stairs hewn in rock; school-house; and other very interesting ruins. (Get local guide.)

The Forum Romanum (daily, 11.; Sun., free) was a marshy space between the Capitol and Palatine, the baitle-ground of Sabines and Rom- ans, afterwards the center of their state, embel- lished with many splendid temples and statues, the scene of many famous events, and seat of the councils which ruled the world. After the fall of Rome, some of the temples became

410 ITALY. Rome.— The Forum.

chs. and others were torn down for building materials; and the troops who came to the aid of Hildebrand, in the 11th century, completed the destruction. Over this ruhbish-heaped Cam- po Vaccino (cow-pasture), for-tresses and houses arose. In 1536, Paul III. began to clear the ground, but little was done until 1803. Since 1871 extensive works have been carried on. The original level was 30 ft. below the present. The remains of the Tabularium (built b. c. 87), vast vaults for archives and 3,000 bronze tables of decrees and records, now serve as founda- tions for Palace of the Senator. See its ponder- ous arcades and gallery, and view over Forum. The marble Arch of Septimiiis Severus is cov- ered with sculptures of the victories of Septi- mius, and his sons, Caracalla and Geta, over the Parthians and Arabians. Erected in 203, it became a mediaeval castle; was excavated in 1803. Back of it are remains of Temple of Con- cord (b. c. 366. restored by Tiberius), where the Senate sometimes met, and Cicero impeached Catiline. The tall white columns near by per- tained to the Temple of Yespasian (once of Jupi- ter Tonans), built by Domitian and restored by Septimius and Caracalla. To the W. stand the Schola Xantlia. the home of the official scribes, and the Colonnade of the Twelve Gods (built A. D. 367, by an anti-Christian praefect). 8 gran- ite Ionic columns in front of Vespasian's Tem- ple, pertained to Temple of Saturn. Near by were the orators' tribunes [rostra), often used by Cicero. Two marble slabs from the rostra have beautiful reliefs. Remains of the t07nb of Romulus with early Latin inscriptions were un- earthed in 1899. The Column of Phocas was

ITALY. Rome.— Via Sacra. 411

erected in 608, in honor of a Greek emperor. Near by, see Basilica Julia, 333 by 149 ft., built by Csesar, with parts of its many pillars remain- ing. 8 Parian-marble columns still stand on site of splendid Temple of Castor and Pollux (built B. c. 484; rebuilt a. d. 6). On E. are foun dations of Teynple of Caesar, where Mark An- thony delivered his funeral oration. The Tern vie of Faustina (a. d. 141), with 10 marble col umns, encloses the ch. of S. Lorenzo in Miranda. An ancient burial vault was discovered here in 1902. Numerous vaulted passages beneath the pavement of the Forum were discovered during the excavations in 1901. Seventh century ch. of 8. Adriano is on site of Curia Hostilia. The Via Sacra, leading from S. gate of Rome to Capitol, lies 20 ft. below the road. The circular -Temple of Romulus is now the ch. of SS. Cosmo and Damian, with porphyry columns, bronze doors, 6th-century mosaics, and tombs of saints. The Basilica of Constantine, originally 300 by 264 ft. in area, has 3 stupendous arches re- maining (beautiful view from top). Back of ch, of 8. Francesca Romana (interesting tombs and relics) are ruins of once superb Temple of Venus and Rome, designed by Hadrian, who would be architect as well as emperor (a. d. 135). The marble Triumphal Arch of Titus, small, but very interesting and graceful, commemorates the victories over the Jews, a. d. 70. It was a mediaeval fortress of the Frangipani. See the bas-reliefs. Hence the Sacred Way descends to the vast building named, from Colossal statue of Nero, the Colosseum, Rome's chief marvel. It was founded by Vespasian and finished by Titus, Jewish captives doing the work (a. d.

412 ITALY. Rome. — Arch of Constantine.

80); 10,000 men and 5,000 beasts were slain at its inauguration; the scene of countless fights of gladiators and wild beasts; and of magnifi- cent celebration of 1000th anniversary of Rome's foundation (a. d. 248); afterwards fortress of Frangipani, Annibaldi, etc.; in 14th and 15th centuries a quary, its fine masonry being used to build Farnese, Cancelleria, S. Marco, and other vast palaces; about 1750 redeemed, and consecrated to the Passion of Christ. It is an ellipse, 1/3 M. around and 156 ft. high., with arena 279 by 174 ft. in area, which could be flooded for naval combats; 50,000 spectators could be accommodated. Only 1/3 of the Colos- seum now stands. Visit it by moonlight also. The adjacent Arch of Constantine, the most beautiful in Rome, commemorates the victory over Maxentius (311), the Pagan emperor, and stands on the Triumphal Way. The best of the many sculptures were taken from an older monument of Trajan. Pius VII. unburied this arch in 1804. Close by, see remains of sumptu- ous Baths of Titus (50c.), on the Esquiline, on part of site of Nero's Golden House. Beautiful mural paintings here, which suggested Raphael's frescos in Vatican loggie. S. Clemente, the old- est ch. in Rome, is midway between the Colos- seum and Lateran. Upper ch. is a basilica, with 16 antique columns, old mosaics, and rich can- opy. The lower ch., built before 392, and dam- aged by Guiscard's Norman army (1084), has been excavated since 1858. It has 16 antique columns and 5th-century frescos (very interest- ing). Still farther down are remains of St. Clement's (4th pope) house, discovered in 1867. Near by, on lonely Celian Hill, see ch. of SS.

ITALY. Rome.— ScALA Santa. 413

Quatro Coronati, to 4 saints martyred by Dio- cletian,— very ancient, destroyed by Guiscard's Normans, and restored in 1111; S. Stefano Ro- tondo, the largest circular ch. in existence, built by Simplicius in 470, with 56 columns and many frescos of terrible martyrdoms; La Navicella, rebuilt in 817, with many columns of granite and porphyry, and 9th-century mosaics; 5th- century SS. Giovanni e Paolo, with Passionist monastery and garden; S. Gregorio (575), 16 antique columns, part of St. Gregory's house, a bit of Servian Wall, and 3 very interesting de- tached chapels.

The broad Piazza di 8. Giovanni in Laterno has a red-granite obelisk 104 ft. high (with ped- estal, 153 ft), erected at Thebes, b. c. 1560; brought to Rome by Constantine, a. d. 357; and set up here in 1587. On one side. Women's Hospital; opposite which see Scala Santa, 28 marble steps (brought to Rome by Empress Helena, in 326), by which Christ is said to have entered Pilate's palace at Jerusalem. They are ascended on the knees only, and lead to very sacred chapel (1278). Here, alongside the wall of Rome, and overlooking the Campagna and mts., stands the venerable basilica of S. Gio- vanni in Laterano, on whose front is inscribed Omnium, urhis et orbis ecclesiarum mater et caput. This is the Pope's ch. as Bishop of Rome; at St. Peter's he is sovereign Pontiff of the world. Five ecumenical councils were held here, be- tween 1123 and 1512. Constantine built the • first ch. here, on site of palace of Laterani fam- ily. Present ch. built 1360-1734. Fagade with colossal statues, bronze doors, statue of Constan- tine. Interior has grand nave, with 4 aisles,

414 ITALY. Rome. — Lateran Palace.

inlaid pavement, massive pillars with 24 stat- ues of Prophets and Apostles, bronze statue of Martin V., Altar of the Sacrament (with an- tique columns of gilded bronze), many fine old mosaics, Giotto's fresco of Pope Boniface VIII., magnificent Corsini Chapel (inlaid with prec- ious stones), Torlonia Chapel (in white marble and gold), Donatello's wooden statue of St. John the Baptist, Bernini's Pieta, and the great Papal altar, over which is a canopy containing heads of Sts. Peter and Paul. Beautiful 13th- century monastery court adjacent; also octag- onal Baptistry, in which it is said that Con- stantine was baptized, with 8 porphyry columns, basalt, font, bronze doors (1196), 7th-century mosaics, and 3 oratories (built in 461 and 640). In adjacent Lateran Palace the popes dwelt for a thousand years (to 1377). Present palace built in 1586; and in 1843 converted into vast and interesting museums of antique sculptures (Tues., Thurs., 10-3, 11.; Sat., 10-1, free) and Christian sarcophagi and inscriptions (from catacombs and picture-gallery (Mon., Wed., Fri., 10-3, 11.) filling 8 rooms, with remarkable Latin mosaics.

S. Croce in Gerusalemme, among lonely fields between Aqua Claudia and Roman wall, is a 4th-century basilica, founded by Empress Hel- ena, on earth brought from Jerusalem, with mosaics, frescos, tombs of saints, and the In- scription on the Cross. Cistercian monastery adjacent, with famous library. Also, ruins of (jastrensimi Amphitheatre, etc. To N. ruins of 3d-century decagonal Temple of Minerva Medica. once rich in statues ; and near rly.. 8. Bihi- ana, with antiiiue columns inside. In casino

ROME. Baths of Caracalla. 415

of Villa Massimo, on Piazza Laterano, rich mod- ern frescos from Dante, Tasso, and Ariosto, by Overbeck, Sebnoor, etc. Villa Wolkojisky near by.

The marble-clad brick Pyramid of Cestius, at Porta S. Paolo, is 116 ft. high (base, 98 ft. square), with chamber 19 x 13 ft., where the tribune Caius Cestius was buried (b. c, 30). Close by are the Protestant Cemeteries, with graves of Keats, Severn, etc., and of the heart of Shelley. See, across meadows, the lonely Monte Testaccio, 164 ft. high, composed entirely of broken pottery, crowned by a cross (grand view hence), and cut into by wine-sellers' grot- tos. To the N., see ancient Latin Emporium and quays of Marmorata; also 3 chs. on Aven- tine; S. Sabina, built in 425, in basilica form, with 24 antique Corinthian columns of Parian marble, and open roof, and adjacent Dominican monastery (beautiful cloisters) ; S. Alessio^ very ancient, restored in 1217, with Hieronymite monastery adjoining; and S. Maria Aventina. with tombs of Knights of Malta, whose priory is close by.

The Baths of Caracalla (daily, 11.), nearly 1 M. from Arch of Constantine (by S. Balbina, a very ancient ch., with open roof), still show remains of their ancient vastness and magnifi- cence. They cover an area 1 080 ft. square, and could accommodate 1,600 bathers. Caracalla was the founder (a. d. 212). Many famous statues wer^ discovered here. Splendid view from roof. Near by, see ch. of S/S. Nereo ed Achilleo, built by Leo. III. in 300, on site of Temple of Isis, in basilica style; >S'. Sisto, and convent of S. Domenico; very ancient 8. Cesareo; and, near the closed Porta Latina, old chs. of -S. Giovanni,

416 ITALY. Appian Way.

and a Latin tomb. Beyond TomJ) of the Scipios (50c.) and Columbaria, the street passes the mutilated Ai'ch of Drusus (b. c. 8), and enters the Appian Way at S. Sebastian Gate.

The Appian Way (called Regina Viarum) was begun B. c. 312 by Appius Claudius, and ran to Capua, and afterwards to Brindisi, forming main route to S. Italy, Greece, and Egypt. By order of Pius IX. it was excavated as far as Fratocchie, 11 M. out, on rly., to Albano. Beau- tiful views all along, of Campagna, aqueducts, and Alban Mts. Beyond Domine quo Vadis ch., a path leads off to Temple of Deus Rediculus, a handsome little building or Hadrian's era; the Grotto of Egeria; a red-brick 2d-century tomb, or temple, now the ch. of S. Urbano (with fres- cos of A. D. 1011); and the tombs of the Via Latina. On Via Appia are Catacombs of S. Ca- lixtus (11.), with tombs of St. Cecilia and many 2d and 3d century popes and martyrs, and 7th-century Byzantine paintings. Catacombs of Domitilla and 8. Praetextatus near by. A quar- ter of a mile beyond is very ancient S. Sebas- tiano ch., under which are extensive catacombs (11.). Farther on see remains of Circus of Maxentius. built in 311, 1,590 ft. long, with seats for 18,000 people. On hill beyond stands the famous Tomb of Caecilia Metella, round, 65 ft. in diameter, and in 13th century a tower of now vanished castle of the Gaetani. Beyond, the Way is bordered by ancient tombs on either side, and the old Latin pavement is the road-bed. Noble views of the mts. and the far prolonged arches of Aqua Marcia and Aqua Claudia. Six M, out is Casale Rotondo, a large tomb; and it is 8 M. thence to Albano. Near 4th milestone

ITALY. The Campagna. 417

is Tomh of Seneca (so called), near site of Sen- eca's house, and also near ruins of beautiful little Temple of Jupiter, where many Christians suffered martrydom. Three tumuli, 1 M. be- yond, are thought to be the tombs of the Horatii and Curiati. At 9th milestone are ponderous brick ruins of villa and tomb of Emperor Gal- lineus.

Outside the Porta Pia at the end of the Via Venti Settembre is the Campo Militare, or parade ground, and alongside this the large PoUclinico, or city dispensary.

Excursions near Rome. — The Campagna is a great rolling plain of volcanic earth, between the sea and the Sabine Mts., with shallow ra- vines and low steep hills. Pools of water col- lect here in winter, and stagnate in summer, forming breeding places for the mosquitos which transmit the terrible malaria which makes Rome's vicinity so unhealthy. But every tour- ist should see Italy in her fair summer attire; and an August sojourn may be made at Rome with entire safety, by taking due precautions. Moreover the Campagna is being draiuetl. and is yearly growing less - unhealthful. Trolley cars now run from Rome to Frascati, Albano, and Genzano.

The patriarchal and pilgrimage ch. of S. Lo- renzo fuori le Mura, f M. beyond Poi-ta di S. Lo- renzo, on tomb of St. Lawrence, was founded by Constantine; rebuilt in 578; remodelled in 1216; and restored in 1864-70. See bronze statue of St. Lawrence, in square; facade with frescos of founders; 10th-century mosaic pavement; 22 antique Ionic columns of nave, upholding open roof; lower and older ch., with 12 noble Cor'nth-

418 ITALY. S. Paolo fuori le Mura.

ian columns of pavonazzetto ; violet-marble col- umns, in presbytery; silver shrine with remains of St. Lawrence; beautiful 13th-century cloister adjacent. Great cemetery near. In vestibule Pius IX. is buried. The basilica of S. Agnese fuori le Mura, beyond the Patrizi and Torlonia villas, I5 M. outs' de Porta Pia, was built by Con- stantine, over St. Agnes's tomb, and restored in 625 and 1856. Beyond the court, 45 marble steps lead down to the ch., with mosaics, inlaid altars, 16 precious antique columns, and tabernacle (with porphyry columns) over alabaster statue of St. Agnes. Adjacent is S. Costanza, built by Constantine as tomb of his daughter Constantia, with dome resting on 24 columns of granite, porphyry sarcophagus of Constantia, and 4th century mosaics.

S. Paolo fuori le Mura, 1* M. from Porta S. Paolo, on Ostian road, alongside the Tiber, is on site of a deeply venerated church built by Con- stantine, over St. Paul's tomb, and magnificently enriched and enlarged by emperors and popes, but burnt in 1823. Present church, consecrated- in 1854, of valuable materials and imposing proportions, is 390 x 195 ft. in area, and 75 ft. high (inside). Wonderfully impressive nave, and four aisles, with 80 enormous Simplon- granite columns, whose bases and capitals are of marble; long lines of mosaic portraits of all the popes; and stained-glass windows. See ala- baster columns given by Viceroy of Egypt; ma- lachite altars, given by tne Czar; 5th century mosaics; splendid altar canopy (1285); and rich chapels. Adjacent is beautiful (now secular- ized) Benedictine cloister (1220), surrounding orange-grove. Two M, hence is 8. Sebastiano

ITALY. Monte Mario. 419

(p. 416); and out on Via Ardeatina (1^-2 M.) are abbey and three chs. (393-1599) of Tr© Fontane, where St. Paul was beheaded.

The handsome Ponte Molle, H M. (dull road) from Porta del Popolo, was rebuilt in 1815 on site of Milvian Bridge, built b. c. 109, where Maxentius was slain, after being defeated by Constantine (a. d. 312). Two M. out is Aqua Acetosa, a famous old mineral-spring, beyond the once sumptuous villa which Vignola built for Pope Julius III. Beyond Ponte Molle are the far-viewing rock-tombs of the Nasones, the Villa of Livia, and the famous Valley of Poussin.

Monte Mario, li M. from Porta Angelica, is a bold hill (road to top), 476 ft. high, command- ing superb view of Rome, the Campagna, the mts., and the sea. There are several villas here, among which see Yilla Mellini, famed for its prospect, and Villa Wladama, designed by Ra- phael, and owned in turn by Clement VII, the Parnese family, and the King of Naples. See loggia, with frescos by Giulio Romano.

±he Via Nomeiitana leads from Porta Pia, 2 M., from which it crosses the Anio by an an- cient bridge. IJ M. beyond is the famous Mons Sacer; and the road is prolonged to the battle- field of Mentana (1867).

The Via Praenestina leads rrom Porta Mag- . giore to (2 M.) the Torre del Schiavi, a favorite resort of artists. It is a large group of very obscure ruins, once pertaining to the villa of Gordian, and in Middle Ages used for a ch. and a castle. Three M. from Porta Maggiore, on Via Labicana, are the ruins of the mausoleum of the Empress Helena (now a ch.).

The Via Campana runs along the Tiber, from

420 ITALY. Alba NO.

Porta Portese to (5 M.) the Vigna Ceccarelli, with scanty remains of temple and hall of an- cient agricultural brotherhood of the Fratres Arvales, founded by the foster-brothers of Rom- ulus, to invoke the Goddess of Plenty. Near by, see well-preserved Catacombs of 8. Generosa; also (near Magliana stat.), chateau of La Mag- liana, once frescoed by Raphael.

The Via Salara leads from the Salarian Gate to (2i M.) the ancient stone bridge over the Anio, destroyed by the Goths, rebuilt by Narses, and blown up in 1867. On far-viewing height close by stood Antemnae, a town destroyed by Romulus; and 4 M. beyond, near Castle Giubileo (built by Boniface VIII. in 1300), are the scanty , ruins of Fidenae.

Albano (Hotel de la Poste, or de V Europe; Ristorante Salustri) is 18 miles from Rome by rly. across Campagna, crossing lines of aque- ducts and Via Latina. Climb of J hr. (2^ M.) from Stat, to Albano (omnibus, ^1.). You can drive hither over Appia7i Way. At Albano were Pompey's Villa, Domitian's great Albanum, the vineyards whose wine Horace praised, and the mediaeval fortress of the Savelli. It has many Roman relics, especially in the Villa Doria (open to visitors). The high situation of Albano (1,250 ft.) and its pure air make it a favorite summer-resort. Beyond the Villa Barherini is the large papal palace of Castel Gandolfo, still the property of the Pope. Beautiful view from Capuchin Monastery . Good roads on upper and lower galleries on E. of Lake Albano, an extinct crater, shaded with trees, and one of the loveli- est of Italian lakes. The Romans (b. c. 397) cut a tunnel (still remaining) through the rock.

I

ITALY. Frascati. 421

and partly drained it, in obedience to an oracle. Alba Lofiga was near by. A magnificent arcaded stone viaduct, 1,020 ft. long and 192 ft. high 'f (built 1846-63), crosses the glen from Albano

to ancient Ariccia (Laiirenti) , a town and pal-

\ ace pertaining to the Chigi family. Roads lead I through noble old forests to Rocca di Papa, a ! village near reputed camp or Hannibal. The ' Via Triumphalis ascends to crest of Monte Cavo (3,130 ft. high; very broad view), where are remains of great Temple of Jupiter Latiaris, the chief shrine of the Latin League (Passion- ist monastery founded here in 1783). This region is described by Virgil in last books of /Eneid, where Juno, from Monte Cavo, observes the Latin and Roman armies. Beautiful scen- ery toward Genzano (Pizzotto) , 3 M. from Al- bano whence one overlooks the crystalline Lake of Nemi, 2^ M. around, and 300 ft. deep, in an extinct crater. Ovid speaks of this lake, which was called the Mirror of Diana, from a temple of the goddess on its shore. Here Tiberius had a splendid vessel afloat.

Frascati {Frascati; di Londra; Tusculum) , 15 M. by ry. from Rome, is on a foot-hill of the Al- ban Mts., in a very healthy climate. It has many fine old 16th century villas, among which see Aldotrandini, with fine fountains and oak groves; Falconieri (1550), with many pictures and pretty gardens; Rufjinella, now owned by Prince Lancelotti; Mondragone, now a Jesuit's school; and Piccolomini, where Baronius lived. A shaded road leads hence to Tusculum, found- ed by Ulysses's son Selegonus, the birthplace of Cato, and favorite residence of Cicero. It held out valiantly against Hannibal, but was destroyed

422 ITALY. Tivoli.

by a papal Roman army in 1191. See Roman am- phitheatre, recently excavated Villa of Cicero, reservoir, Camaldoli Convent, and lofty Citadel (2,218 ft. high), with magnificent view. Three M. distant, by a forest-road, is Grotto Ferrata, a Greek Basilian monastery (founded 1002), with famous frescos by Domenichino. Hence a guide will lead in 1^ hrs. to Rocca.di Papa and Monte Cavo. Four and a half M. distant is Ma- rino, and old Orsini fortress on Alban Mts., cap- tured in 1424 (and still held) by the Colonnas. Good pictures in the three chs. Three M. hence is rly. stat., 35 min. from Rome. Pleasant road also to Castel Gandolfo and Albano.

Tivoli (Regina: SibiJIa; Sirena) is 25 M. from Rome. This was the ancient Tibur, founded 5 centuries before Rome, and conquered by Camil- lus, B. c. 380. Here dwelt Maecenas, Horace, Pro- pertius, and Catullus; and here Zenobia passed her captivity. Augustus, Hadrian, and other em- perors and nobles had palaces here. It is now a huddled town of 15,000 inhab. One M. out is Had- rian's Villa (adm. 1 1., Sun. free), once the finest in the world, with many imposing buildings, co- vering several square miles. It was destroyed by Totila's Goths, and only the most fragmentary ruins remain. The beautiful circular Corinthian Temple of the Sybil (probably dedicated to Her- cules or Vesta) and the oblong Ionic temple ad- jacent (now ch. of 8. Giorgio) command a fine view of the Falls. Path leads to Grotto of Nep- tune and Sirens' Grotto. The chief fall is 330 ft. high; the smaller falls are Le Cascatelle. Many other fine bits of scenery here, and Roman ruins; also, Villa Braschi, overlooking Campag- na, and Villa d' Este (1549), with very lovely

ITALY. OsTiA. 423

gardens and ancient frescos. Many charming ex- cursions hence among Sabine Mts. Monte Gen- naro (4,800 ft.) may be ascended in 6 hrs. by bridle path. It is 1* M. from Tivoli to Valley of Licenza, site of Horace's Sabine farm. Twenty three M, (5 hrs.) up Anio Valley is Subiaco (La Pernice; Aniene) , a mediaeval castle- crowned town, built on remains of Nero's villa, and with very famous monastries of S. Scolas- tica and 8. Benedetto, a vast group of cloisters on site where St. Benedict lived.

Palestrina, 22 M. from Rome, 12 from Fras- cati, 4i from Valmontone stat., was the ancient Praeneste; conquered by Camillus (b. c. 380); headquarters of Marius; favorite Roman sum- mer-resort (see Horace) ; scene of terrible wars between Colonnas and popes in Middle Ages; and since 1630 the property of the Barberini. See Cyclopean walls, immense but shapeless Roman ruins, Barberini Palace, Colonna fortress (13-22), and vast view over Campagna.

Bracciano (Piva) , 24 M. from Rome, has a wonderful old Gothic castle of lava, which Sir Walter Scott greatly admired. It was built by the Orsini, and is now owned by Odescalchi. Fine view from tower. Adjacent lake is 20 M. around; abounds in eels.

Ostia, 14 M. from Rome, near the mouth of the Tiber, once had 80,000 inhab., but now has scarcely 100. The Saracens were terribly de- feated here about a. d. 850. See S. Aurea Epis- copal Palace, and tombs, temples and baths of adjacent ruined city and seaport of classic age. Two M. hence is very interesting Casth: Fusano. a Chigi stronghold against pirates, 1* M. from the sea, in a great pine-forest.

424 ITALY. Rome to Naples.

There are many other deeply interesting ex- cursions near Rome . See Hare's Days Near Rome, Baedeker's Central Italy, Murray, Hach- ette, or Cook.

Naples, Bala, Pompeii, Sorrento, Capri.

Express trains, Rome to Naples, 5* hrs. ordi- nary trains, 9 hrs. (fares lower). Some travel- lers go from Rome to Civita Vecchia by rly., and thence by steamer, for the sake of the lovely view entering the Bay of Naples.

Paris to Naples, via Turin, Florence, and Rome, in 53 hrs.

Naples is a convenient point of departure for Mediterranean ports. Steamships sail frequent- ly for Alexandria, Tunis, Cagliari, Palermo, Gre- noa, Leghorn, and Marseilles.

A rly. runs N.-E. (124 M.; 5-6 hrs.) from Naples across Italy, by Benevento, to Foggie, on the Adriatic, connecting there with rly. to Brin- disi and Taranto, on S., and Ancona and N. Italy. By this route it is 19-20 hrs. to Bologna.

The rly. from Rome to Naples passes Velletri, an ancient Volscian town (16,500 inhab.), with fine old Cathedral; Sgurgola, 4^ M. from Anagni, a famous old papal town; Ferentino stat., 3 M. from Ferentino, a venerable Hernician hill-town, with castle, cathedral and huge poly- gonal walls; Frosinone stat, 2^ M. from beauti- fully situated hill-town of Frosinone, and 9 or 10 M. from very curious old Alatri, with cyclo- pean walls; Geprano stat., 2* M. from Ceprano, and the stat. for Falls of the Liris and the Cice- ro's Villa; Aquino, birthplace of Emperor Pes- cennius Niger, Juvenal, and Thomas Aquinas; Cassino (or S. Germano) , a busy town, with Ro- man amphitheatre, Varro's Villa, and tombs (a

ITALY. Naples. 425

climb of 1^ hr. leads to the world-renowned and magnificent Benedictine monastery of Monte Cassino, with hospitable monks and peerless views) ; Teano, with great castle and Roman re- mains; Capua a town of 14,000 inhab., in broad plain of Campania Felice, with noble basilica, fortress, triumphal arch, ancient chs.; and S Maria^ on site of ancient Capua, with amphi- theatre for 100,000 persons, and other Roman ruins. The rly. runs thence over the vast and populous plain of the Terra di Lavwo, to Naples.

Naples is a city of 550,000 inhab., with little of architectural of antiquarian interest, but blest with a superb situation, mild climate, and beautiful environs. It is built on the amphithe- atrical slopes of hills, sheltering it from the N. wind, and nearly bisected by the abrupt ridge of S. Elmo and Pizzofalcone. Its view includes a semicircle of azure sea, the villages around the bay, and many picturesque hills. The busy and crowded Via Roma, still popularly called by its old name of Via Toledo, runs N. 1* M. from Pa- lazzo Reale, near the harbor. The vast and inte- resting.

Hotels: BertoUni's; Parkers; Bristol; Excel- sior; Macpherson's; Eden; Savoy; Santa Lucia; Metropole; Yictoria; du Vesuve; Grayid ; des £itrangers; Splendid; Crrandc BrctiKjnc : de Londres.

Baggage is sometimes examined on arriving at Naples, by excise oflBcers, but formaMties are slight.

Conveyances. — One-horse cab, SO c. to 1 1. 10 c; Two-horse cab, 1 I. 50 c. to 1 1. 80 c; bag- gage 20c. apiece. Small boats from steamship

426 ITALl. Naples.

to shore, 1 1. each person, 1* with usual baggage. Pay no attention to extortionate demands, with which boatmen usually begin. Beware of beg- gars and people who offer their services.

National Museum (open daily, 10-4, 11.; chil- dren, ^1.; no fees allowed; free, Sunday, 9-1), is in old Spanish cavalry-barracks (1586), occupied by University, 1615-1780. There is a good hand- book. See 1,600 ancient mural paintings, from Pompeii, etc.;. epigraphic collection; long range of rooms with Egyptian and Etruscan antiqui- ties; finest existing collection of ancient bronzes, including Dancing Faun, Narcissus, Mercury, Sleeping Faun, and bust of Seneca; 18,000 small bronze objects from Pompeii, etc.; immense col- lections of ancient glass, terra-cotta, Cumtean antiquities, numismatic objects ; many marble and bronze statues, including. Farnese Bull (res- tored by Michael Angelo). Farnese Hercules, Venus, Wounded Gladiator, Ocean Flora, Nile, Farnese Juno, ^Eschines, Balbus; famous mo- saics of Battle of Issus and Triifmph of Bacchus; great collection of papyri MSS., from Hercula- neum; 7 rooms full of Greek and Italian vases; and gems, jewels, food, and silver plate from Pompeii. The Picture Gallery has 800 paintings, Neapolitan, Tuscan, Bolognese, Roman, Vene- tian, German, and Flemish, including several by Raphael, Titian, and Correggio. The Library has 400.000 vols., 8,000 MM'S., and many val- uable autographs.

The Chiaja, seat of chief hotels for foreigners, is a narrow strip between the S. Elmo and Posi- lippo ridges and the harbor, with pretty parks. (Villa Xazionale. music Sun., Tues., and Thurs. afternoon and evening) along waterside.

ITALY. Naples. 427

t: In the park are the buildings of the Zoological ••* Station, among them the celebrated Aquarium. i On E. projecting into the sea, is the black and ] gloomy Castel dell' Ovo (1154), often beseiged j and now a prison. Thence Strada 8. Lucia leads I to Arsenal, through busy and interesting scenes. j Overhead is hill of Pizzofalcone, over which one i may pass, by the lion-guarded Victory Column ! of the martyrs for liberty and the Miranda Pa- \ lace, to the center of the city.

The Palazzo Reale (Sun. and Thurs., 11-4, 50 c.) was built m 1600, by order of Phillip III. of Spain, and rebuilt in 1837-41. It is 554 ft. long, with grand staircase, throne-room, and many fine old paintings and carvings, and view of harbor from garden. Opposite, across hand- some Piazza del Plehiscito. is S. Francesco di Paola. a copy of Roman Pantheon, with 30 marble Corinthian columns supporting dome, altar covered with jasper and lapis lazuli,_ and many modern pictures. Near by see Palace of Prince of Salerno (official residence). Foreste- ria Palace, and Canova's equestrian statues of the Bourbons, Charles III., and Ferdinand I. Alongside Palazzo Reale is Theatre of S. Carlo (1737), one of the largest in the world. See public scribes in arcades; and statues of Horse- Tamers, before palace-gardens. The great Cas- tel Nuovo, built by Charles of Anjou in 1283, and enlarged in 1442, 1546, and 1735, was the home 01 the Anjou and Aragon sovereigns, and the Spanish viceroys. See beautiful Triumphal Arch (1470), armory, and ch. of /S. Scbastiano with very famous picture. Close by, see Arsenal (1577); Porto JMilitare, with Italian iron-clads; busy Porto Grande — the shipping harbor; and

428 ITALY. Naples.

Molo, a long breakwater, witn battery and light- house (ascend this, for view). Across the square before the Castle stands the handsome Municipal Palace.

S. Giacomo degli Spagnuoli (1540) has splen- did mausoleum of Spanish Viceroy Don Pedro de Toledo. Near by is beautiful fountain, erect- ed in 1695 by Duke of Medina Cell; also, Incoro- nata ch. (1352), with interesting Giottesque frescos; and Palazzo Fo-ndi, with picture-gallery.

The Monte Oliveto Benedictine Monastery (1411) on Yia di Roma, is now a market. Here Tasso dwelt in 1588. In ch. see many notable old tombs and pictures. In the rear, see 8. Maria la Nuova (1268; restored in 1596), with famous frescos and tombs; and Post-Office, in beautiful old Palazzo Gravina (1500). Farther along Yia di Roma, see Palazzo Maddaloni (now a bank), with richly frescoed hall; and Palazzo Angri (1773), once Garibaldi's headquarters. Strada S. Trinitd leads to r. towards Gesit Nu- ova ch. (1584), with many frescos (opposite is refectory of 8. Chiara, with Giottesque frescos) ; S. Chiara (1310), with burial-chapel of Bour- bons, splendid monument of Robert the Wise (1343), pulpit on four lions, and Madonna by Giotto; lofty and imposing S. Domenico (1285), on a square between palaces, and containing 27 princely chapels, rich in Renaissance art, altar of Florentine mosaic, tombs of the Aragonese sovereigns, and of many nobles and prelates, banner and sword (and tomb) of Marquis of Pescara (Vittoria Colonna's husband), and many pictures; cell and lecture-room of Thomas Aquinas (1272); Chapel of 8. Severo (1590), crowded with decoration, and containing re-

ITALY. Naples. 429

markable sculptures of Man in the Net and Christ in Winding-Sheet; 88. Angela e Nilo (13- 85); University (1224), in old Jesuit College, with 5 faculties, and very good library (open 9-3): S. Severino e Sosio, with notable tombs and frescos, and beautiful cloisters in rear (ad- jacent Benedictine monastery has priceless ar- chives of Naples, 40,000 parchments, beginning A. D. 703); Palazzo Santangelo (1466), with pic- ture-gallery; Castello Capuano (1231), once home of Hohenstaufen kings, and seat (after 1540) of Spanish and present law-courts; and Capuan Gate (restored in 1535), a noble piece of architecture. The Cathedral, not far from the Gate, was built 1272-13±4, on site of Temple of Neptune. It is a basilica, with shrine and tomb of St. Januarius, many frescos, and tombs of 2 popes, 2 kings of Hungary, etc. Adjacent is 8. Restituta, a basilica with uorinthian columns, and baptistry attributed to Constantine (a. d. 333); also, magnificent Chapel of 8t. Januarius (1608), rich in gold and silver, precious stones, and other adornments, and enshrining the blood of the saint. A mile and a half beyond the Ca- puan Gate are the great cemeteries, the Neio, with Doric ch., Gothic monastery, and 102 cha- pels; the Old, with 365 closed vaults for the burial of the poor; and the Protestant, with many English and American graves.

Between Castello Capuano and harbor, see 8. Annunziata (1757); Porta Xolana; the huge Castello del Carmine (1484). now a barrack and prison; 8. Maria del Carmine, with tomb and noble statue of King Conradin; Piazza del Mer- cato (where Conradin was executed, in 1268), with three fountains; Carynine Gate, with two

430 ITALY. Naples.

massive towers; and a very extensive quarter, with scores of narrow and sinuous streets, crow- ded with picturesque Neapolitans, macaroni-ped- dlers, story tellers, fishermen, etc. S. Giovanni a ■Garbotiara (1344), N. of Cathedral, has splendid mausoleum of King Ladislaus (1414). Farther N. are Botanical Gardens and vast Poor-House. Between Cathedral and Via di Roma, see S. Fi- lippo Neri (1592), rich in paintings; S. Paolo Maggiore (1691), in whose cloisters are many ancient Roman columns; S. Lorenzo (1266), with many frescos and fine cloisters (Petrarch and Boccaccio have been here); the Grothic S. Pietro a Maiella (1316), with monastery adja- cent, now a school of music, where Bellini was taught, and Mercadante was director.

Opposite Museum stands Ginnasio Vittorio Emanuele (1757), with 26 statues, and a statue of Dante in front. From 8th-century ch. of S. Gennaro, enter the Catacombs (fee, 11.), exca- vated by ancient Christians, and much broader and higher than those at Rome. Myriads of dead have been buried here. Farther out is Capodimonte Palace (Thurs. and Sun., 10_4, per- mission obtained gratis at the Palazzo Reale on Wed. and Sat., 11-12), built for the Bourbon Mngs (1738-1839), witt'h long lines of state-rooms, many pictures, rich furniture, a large garden, and lovely views. fM. distant is the Observa- tory, on far-viewing crest of Capodimonte.

Castel Sant' Elmo (1243), 876 ft. above the bay, is reached by a street from the Museum. It is a vast and ponderous fortress (now military prison) overlooking the city and sea. Close by is old Carthusian monastery of S. Martino (10 -4, 11.; Sun., 9-1, free); built in 1325. See

ITALY. Excursions from Naples. 431

museum of majolica, ivories, etc.; very beauti- ful cloisters, surrounded by white-marble col- umns, and adorned with statues; and magnifi- cent ch., lined with choice marbles and mosaics, and adorned with ^£amous paintings. Exquisite views from this monastery.

Excursions from Naples. — Beyond the Chiaja and Villa Nazionale with their statues, temples, and aquarium, the Mergellina extends along the shore, under Posilippo, with beautiful sea-views, and by numerous villas, and the insulated 17th century Palace of Do7ina Anna (now in ruins). Near the Chiaja stands ancient ch., in which is the great mausoleum of the poet Sannazaro. The road W. from the Chiaja leads through Grotta di Posilippo, a well-lighted tunnel in the rock, i M. long, replacing grotta, now closed, cut through by Augustus, and mentioned by Seneca. Over its E. end is so-called Tomb of Virgil (^1.), a Roman tomb with recesses for urns. Petrarch and King Robert visited this spot, and planted laurel. Near by was Virgil's villa, where he wrote the Eclogues and Georgics. Road through tunnel leads to grotto of Sejanus (11.), a tunnel cut through the rocky ridge by Nerva (b. c. 37), and repaired by Honorius (a. d. 400). It is 2/3 M. long, and higher and wider than Posilippo tunnel. Near by, see many remains of villas of Lucul- lus, Pollio, and other Roman lords. Also, on islet of Nisida, site of villa where Cicero visi- ted Brutus (B. c. 44) after he had killed Caesar; and afterwards of Queen Johanna II. 's villa (15th century). The Lake of Anagno (a crater; now drained) is J M. from Fuorigrotta (where see tomb of Leopardi, in ch.) ; and near by are

432 ITALY. Excursions from Naples.

singular ancient baths of sulphurous gas; also, Grotto del Cane, famous for carbonic-acid, whose effects are tried on unhappy dogs. It is 6 M. from Naples over this road to Pozzuoli, on site of Greek colony conquered ,by Rome, and later chief port of Italy, and depot of Oriental trade. Here Sylla died; Hadrian was buried; St. Paul sojourned 7 days; and Cicero had a villa. See remnants of Temples of Serapis (formerly very splendid), Neptune (pillars rising from sea), and the Nymphs; many Roman tombs; Piscina Grande, a great reservoir; Capuchin monastery (1580) ; Roman quay, now called Bridge of Cali- gula; Cathedral, with tomb of Pergolesi; and Amphitheatre (5oc.), seating 30,000, where Nero gave gladiatorial combats before the King of Armenia, and St. Januarius was exposed to the lions. Near by, see Solfatara, a low crater with warm earth, hot alum springs, and many fissures whence gases rise (last eruption of lava in 1198); and Monte Nuovo, a volcanic hill (now vineyards) thrown up in 1538. To the W. lies Lake Lucrinus, whence the Romans ob- tained their best oysters, and the Neapolitans get choice fish. Lake Avernus, a picturesque crater-pond, 1^ ivl. around, amid chestnuts and orange groves, was held to be the entrance to the infernal regions, until Augustus made it a harbor by cutting a canal to the bay. The fabled entrance to Hades is shown in adjacent Grotto oj the Sibyl (11.), a tunnel 840 ft. long. The Grotta della Pace, I M. long, leads from W. shore towards Cumae, cutting through interven- ing ridge.

An excursion should be made to Camaldoli (carriage, 6 to 10 1., or on donkey back, 3 to 5 1.)

ITALY. Baia. 433

a suppressed monastery where is a superb view of sea and land. Ladies are not admitted to the monastery but they can obtain a nearby equally good view from a garden in the neighborhood. Fee for monastery 50c., for garden near, 20c.

The Baths of Nero are long rock-passages, containing hot springs, in whose waters eggs may be cooked.

Baia (Vittoria) was the most magnificent of summer-resorts in the time of Cicero, Augus-tus, and Hadrian, and was praised by Horace. The Saracens destroyed it; and the Spanish viceroys built a castle and light-house on the site. Here are massive ruins of temples of Venus. Diana, and Mercury, villas of Julius Caesar, Nero, and Hortensius, a splendid Roman reservoir, and other remnants of antiquity. To the S. is Cape Miseno, near site of great Roman naval station of Misenum, and commanding a superb view. 1 M. from Baia is Lake of Fusaro, 1^ M. N. of which are ruins of great Cumas, which was founded by Greeks (b. c. 1050), and had pro- found influence in Italy, founding Naples, giving the Sibylline books to Rome, receiving the Tar- quins, defeating the Etruscans, and finally con- quered by the Samnites and Romans. The Goths restored it, but the Moslems destroyed the town; and 6 centuries ago the Neapolitans annihilated it, as a den of pirates. Near by see Acropolis, with fortifications and noble views; half-buried Amphitheatre; fragments of old temples; and huge brick arch of Arco Felice, 64 ft. high.

Pozzuoli, Baia, Cuma?, etc., may be seen in one day by carriage 25 1.; l-horse carriage, 10-12 1.).

434 ITALY. Mount Vestjv'ius.

Take guide from Naples (51.) to escape local annoyances.

Mount Vesuvius is about 4,000 ft. high, and 30 M. around, isolated on the Plain of Campa- nia, and with 80,000 people living in its chestnut valleys. In a. d. 79 it had a terrible volcanic eruption (described by Pliny and Tacitus), since which 60 or more have occurred, entailing vast losses of life and the annihilation of many villages and cities. Enormous losses were caused by the eruption of 1872. Of a crowd which watched its beginning, 20 persons were swept away and destroyed by the outbursting lava. The cable road now obviates much of the labor formerly necessary in ascent, though the last part of it was destroyed in the eruption of 1906. Beautiful view from Observatory; and from summit you can see a vast area of sea and land. Excursion from Naples to summit and re- turn, by Cook's Vesuvius Railway, 15 1.; guide (necessary) to summit, 2 1, 50 c., exclusive of fees of official guide at summit.

Herculaneum, founded by Hercules, and later a town of Roman villas, was buried by an erup- tion of Vesuvius, a. d. 79, and discovered in 1719, when a well was being dug. Since then, excavations have shown that 40-90 ft. beneath the present town of Resina is a large and splen- did ancient city, whose statues, mural paintings, papyri, etc., are adorning the museums. It was richer than Pompeii, but is much more deeply buried, and under a more impenetrable cove- ring. Little has yet been excavated, but that little should be seen (2 1. for guide and torch). The residences and shops excavated in 1868 are

ITALY. Pompeii. 435

very interesting; the theatre, though immense in size, is too dark to be wc seen.

Pompeii (Suisse; Diomede; Pompeii) is nearly 1 hr. from Naples by rly. passing through Portici (12,000 inhab.) ; Resina, near La Favori- ta, royal chateau, and at foot of Vesuvius; and Torre del Greco, swept by 4 streams of lava within 300 years. Beautiful views of bay and volcano. Read about Pompeii before going there. Near Pompeii stat. is entrance to ruins (3 1.; guide furnished; no gratuity; stay as long as you like). Pompeii was a Greek com- mercial city (B.C. 400-500). which was subju- gated by Rome; and became a favorite resort of her nobles and emperors (with 25,000 inhab.). It was overthrown by earthquake, a. d. 63 ; re- built immediately; and in 79 buried under 20 ft. of ashes from Vesuvius, when 2.000 citizens lost their lives. Excavations were begun in 1748, and are still going on. The walls are Ih M. around, with 8 gates. The streets are 14-24 ft. wide, paved with deeply rutted lava blocks, with stepping-stones and fountains at corners. The concrete or brick lower stories of houses remain; the other stories were burnt. The shops, ta- verns, homes, street-notices, etc., are very inte- resting. Note Temple of Tenus; Forum, where main streets converged, with Temple of Jupiter, Prison, Basilica, Triumphal Arch, Public Gra- nary^ Temple of Mercury, beautiful Chalcidicum, Tuicn Hall, Temple of Augustas. See House of Wild Boar in Street of Abundance; Triangular Fi>rum: the two theatres; barracks of the sol- <liers: House of Sculptor, Stahiw Gate, Temple of Isis: House of Holconius; vast amphitheatre, which seated 20,000. Thence visit Stabian Ther-

436 ITALY. Caserta.

inw, Balcony House, Houses of Siricus and Mar- cus Lucretius, of the Chase, of Ariadne, of Grand Duke of Tusca7iy,.ot Figured Capitals, of Black Walls; Temple of Fortune; Public Baths; House of the Vettii; House of the Faun; House op Anchor; of Tragic Poet (Bulwer describes it in Last Days of Pompeii) ; Fuller's Shop; Great and Little Fountains; House of Pansa, of Laby- rinth, of Castor and Pollux, of Centaur, of Mele- ager, Adonis, Apollo; Academy of music; Bake- house; Soapshop; Barber's Shop; Custom House; Street of Tombs; and Villa of Diomedes (where several bodies were found), beyond Herculaneum Gate. There are many curiosities in the museums, especially casts of the bodies found in the ruins. You may ride hence on horseback (1^ hrs.) to cairn of stones on Vesu- vius; whence climb (Ihr. on foot) to summit (guide and horse, 10 1.).

Caserta (Vittoria) , about 20 M. from Naples, on rly. to Rome, has a magnificent Royal Palace (1752), 834 ft. long and wide, and 134 ft. high, with colonnaded courts, famous gardens and cas- cades, beautiful views, and sumptuous apart- ments. See chapel, highly enriched with lapis lazuli and gold; and theatre, with 16 antique Corinthian columns of African marble.

No one should leave Naples without having visited Sorrento, Amalfi, and Salerno. Rly. in 1 hr, along shore of bay, to Castellamare (Hotel Weiss; Quisisana; Stabia) , a famous Neapoli- tan summer-resort and Italian naval station (33,000 inhab.), near overwhelmed ruins of Stabiae, and with 13th-century castle, royal cha- teau of Quisisana (on the hill), and Monte S. Angelo, 5,000 ft. high, with superb view (guide

ITALY. SOREEXTO.— Capri. 437

and donkey, 5 1.). Here also are famous sul- phurous and ferruginous springs. An excellent road (7| M.; carriage, 5 1.) between the mts. and Bay, leads hence, by Vico and Meta, and a delicious paradise of orange and olive groves, to Sorrento (Gran Bretagna; Tasso; Vittoria; Cocumella; Royal), an ancient seaport on Bay of Naples, famous for exquisite scenery, and delightfully cool summer-climate (it faces N.). Tasso was born here in 1544. Quaint villages, ancient chs., natural curiosities, villas and con- vents, glens and myrtle-groves, rocky islets and points, make this region very charming. Steam- boats leave Naples (S. Lucia) daily, for Sor- rento, Capri, and Ischia. Boat from Sorrento to Capri, two hours (bad trip in rough weather). Capri (Excelsior; Qiiisisana; Continental; Royal; Grotto Bleue) , the "Island of Goats," is 4^ M. long, with almost unbroken lines of cliffs, and far-viewing mts., 2,000 ft. high. There are 4,500 inhab., mostly farmers and coral fishers. Augustus and Tiberius built many villas and palaces here. In 1803 Capri was strongly forti- jBed by the English; but Murat captured it five years later. On E. see ruins of Villa of Tiberius, and the cliff, 700 ft. high, called Salto cli Tiberio, whence the cruel Emperor forced his victims to leap into the sea. Near by is an inn. See Natural Arch; Grotto of Mithras; lofty village of Anacapri. with Barbarossa's castle; and Monte Salaro, with superb view. The most cele- brated of the caverns is the Blue Grotto, 106 by 80 ft. in area, and 40 ft. high, partly filled by beautiful azure sea- water, and lighted and en- tered only by a low and narrow aperture, where the sea beats against the cliff (boat, 2)1. for

438 ITALY. Salerno.— Pesto.

2 persons; 1^ 1. for each additional). The White, Red, Green, and Stalactite Grottos are also visited by boat.

Iscriii is a fertile island 15 m. around, with 25.000 inhab., devoted to vineyards and fisheries, with delightful summer climate, castle of Al- fonso I. of Aragon, lovely village of Casamic- ciola (damaged in 1883 by earthquake), and grand view from top of quiescent volcano of Epomeo, Ischia has been ravaged by Romans, Saracens. Pisans, Neapolitans, and French; and was the home of Vittoria Colonna and Maria of Aragon. Boat from Naples in 2 hrs. Procida is a neighboring volcanic island, 3 M. long, with 14.000 inhab., originally settled, like Capri and Ischia, by Greeks.

Salerno (Hotel d'Arigleterre) is a picturesque old provincial capital (27,000 inhab), 33^ M. from Naples, fronting on a magnificent bay, with fine quay, lA M. long; irregular mediaeval streets, ancient Lombard Castle, and delight- fully quaint old Cathedral (1084), with many antique columns, sarcophagi, and mosaics, and tombs of St. Matthew, Pope Gregory the Great, Margaret of Anjou, etc. The University was very celebrated in Middle Ages (see Longfel- low's Golden Legend).

Pesto, or Psestum, 23 M. from Salerno, by rail- way over dull shore-plains, founded by Greeks, B. c. 600. and destroyed by Saracens, is a collec- tion of the finest Greek ruins in existence (out of Athens), including Temple of Neptune, 189 by 84 ft., with 52 fluted Doric columns; Temple of Ceres. 105 by 45 ft., with 34 fluted columns; and Basilica, 111 by 80 ft, with 60 columns; well-preserved travertine town walls 3 M.

ITALY. Amalfi. 439

around; amphitheatre, Roman temple, Street of Greek tombs. Admission to temples, 1 1., Sun. free.

Amalfi (Cappuccini; Luna; Santa Caterina), a lovely village (7,000 inhab.), where a great mt.-gorge opens on Gulf of Salerno, was once a flourishing commercial republic, rivalling G-e- noa and Pisa, but yielded to the armies of Naples in 1131. Near the Marina quay is the 11th-century Cathedral, with campanile and cloisters, rich mosaics and Byzantine bronze doors, and tomb of St. Andrew. A landslide in December, 1899, destroyed the ancient Ca- pucin monastery and two hotels. A climb of an hour and a half leads to Ravello {Belvedere; del Toro), with magnificent 11th-century ca- thedral and Rufalo Palace (here Pope Adrian IV. and Robert the Wise lived), both in rich Saracenic architecture, and other notable chs. Amalfi may be reached from Sorrento, by boat and path, in 5 hrs. It is better to go there from Salerno by carriage over one of the noblest roads in the world, through 6 villages, amid vineyards and orange and lemon groves, by Charles V.'s anti-Saracenic watch-towers.

Majori {Beau Site Hotel; Torre), near Amalfi, is a charming spot.

Sicily. This beautiful island may be conveniently visited from Naples, whence steamships run, several times weekly, to Palermo and Messina, passing Capri, Stromboli, and the Lipari Isles. Travellers can avoid sea-trip by uncomfortable 26 hrs. (436 M.) rly. ride from Naples through Salerno; Eholi; Gosenza; (Alaric's grave),

440 ITALY. Messina.

with 18,000 inhab.; Tiriolo; lofty Monteleone, with 10,000 inhab.; Mileto, whence Sicilian mts. are seen; Palmi; and Scilla, where 1,500 persons were killed by earthquake of 1783 (and near Homer's Scylla) ; to Reggio, once a beautiful city of 35,000 souls, but totally destroyed, with the loss of 20,000 of its inhabitants, in the earth- quake of December 28, 1908.

French steamers run from Marseilles to Pa- lermo in 50 hrs. Italian boats from Genoa to Palermo in 33 hrs. Steamers run round Si- cily weekly, from Palermo, touching at chief ports.

Messina, formerly the chief commercial town of Sicily, with 150,000 inhab. had a magnificent situation on an amphitheatrical slope, over a . secure and well-fortified harbor. It was founded by the Greeks, b. c. 732; conquered by Samos, Athens (b. c. 427), Carthage (396 and 270), Mamertines, Rome, Saracens, Normans, English (Coeur de Lion), Spaniards, French, and Ital- ians; often ravagea by fire, plague, and earth- quake. These evil days had left it but few an- tiquities. The Norman Cathedral (1098) had 26 antique columns, mosaics, royal tombs, and sar- cophagi; and in front was the splendid Montor- soli Fountain (1647-51). In the early morning of Dec. 28, 1908, Messina was again visited by an earthquake, the severest in its long history of disasters, which threw down or ruined nearly every building in the city, killing, according to the most trustworthy estimates, 100,000 persons, or two-thirds of the entire population. The towns on both sides of the Strait of Messina, estimated to number at least 60, were at the same time more or less completely destroyed

ITALY. Catania. 441

within a space of twelve seconds, 165,000 per- sons being killed.

Ry. hence to Giardini which is the station for Toarmina; {International; CasteUo a Mare; Timeo), with grand ruins of a Greek theatre (whence famous view), acropolis and castle, and ducal palace; across lava fields of Mtna.. Aci Reale and Aci CasteUo on the way to Cata- nia are the scene of the adventures of Polyphe- mus, Acis, and Galatea, sung by Theocritus.

Catania (Bretagne; Bristol; Centrale; Euro- pa), handsomest and most cultured city in Si- cily (147,000 inhab.), by the seaside, at foot of .^tna. and rich in palaces and villas, embow- ered in groves of orange. It was founded by Greeks, b. c. 730; and conquered by Athens, Carthage, Rome, the Goths, Byzantines, Sara- cens, Germans, and Spaniards, See Cathedral (1091) w^ith tombs of six Aragonese sover- eigns, and of St. Agatha; S. Carcere, with relics; cloisters and gardens, museum, library of suppressed Benedictine Monastery of S. NicoJa, than which there was but one more splendid in the world (all its monks were of noble blood) ; underground remains of Roman Theatre and OdeuTu (fee 2 1.); Roman Baths and Amphitheatre ; Roman Tomlts; Uni- versity (1444), 500 students; and public gar- dens of Villa Bellini, with Italian statues. There is a monument to Bellini in the Piazza Stesicoro.

Mount iEtna (10,742 ft. high) may be ascend- ed hence, by carriage (2* hrs.), to Nicolosi (20-25 1. there and back); whence 8 hrs. by lodge of Casa Inglese to summit (guide, 10 1.; mule, 81.); return from top to Catania, 8_9 hrs.

442 ITALY. Syracuse.

It is best to sleep at Casa Inglese (at base of cone of crater), and reacb summit before sun- rise. Tbere bave been over 80 recorded erup- tions, one of wbicb (1693) destroyed 80,000 lives. In 1886 the last occurred. The view in- cludes all Sicily and surrounding seas, Calab- ria, Lipari Isles, and Malta. Rly. from Catania (54 M. to

Syracuse, once the most important city in the Greek world, now a quiet modern port (31,- 000 inhab.), with very charming environs, a noble harbor, narrow and crooked streets, and beautiful women who wear picturesque cos- tumes. It was founded by Corinthians, b. c. 734; defeated the Carthaginians and Etruscans; repulsed the besieging Athenian fleet and army (B.C. 414-13), with terrible losses; beat off fre- quent attacks from Carthage; entertained ^^s- chylus, Pindar, Simonides, etc.; and was defen- ded by Archimides against the Romans (b. c. 214-12) , but fell and was very nearly annihilated. Paul and Marcian preached here. It has since been ravaged by Franks, Bj^zantines, Normans, and Spaniards; and has never recovered from the Moslem destruction in 878. The inhabi- tants still preserve the Greek type. See Cathe- dral, on site of Temple of Minerva, with re- markable font and leading pillars; Museum (open 9-3, 11., Sun. free) with fine Greek Ve- nus, and other antiquities, and Palazzo Bellomo; Fountain of Arethusa, famed in Greek mytho- logy, and still surrounded by papyrus plants; ruins of Temple of Diana; Castle; and Montalto Palace. On mainland near by, see scanty re- mains of ancient Syracuse: Amphitheatre; La- tomiw, or quarries, once worked by slaves;

ITALY. Palermo. 443

grotto called Ear of Dionysius; Greek Theatre (480-406 B.C.); Fountain of Gyane, amid grow- ing papyri; fragments of Temple of Zeus Olym- pius; etc.

Weekly steamers hence to Malta in 8 hrs.

Palermo {Savoy; Villa Igiea; Excelsior Pa- lace; Milano; Centrale), the capital of Sicily (315,000 inhab.), is very beautifully situated be- tween Mt. Pellegrino and Cape Zaffaranta, fa- cing the sea, and has mild winters and intt'iise- ly hot summers. It was settled from Phoenicia, strengthened from Greece, fortified by Carthage, captured by Rome, and governed in succession by the Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Germans, French, and English. On the beautiful Marina and La Flora promenades the Sicilian people of fashion congregate. The Quattro Canti, a small square, contains many statues and co- lumns. The Cathedral (1169-85) is a great and imposing ch., wdth tombs of the Sicilian k^"ngs, and of Emperor Frederick 11. ; immense silver sarcophagus containing remains of St. Ro- salina; many statues and carved choir stalls; and crypt, with tombs of ancient archbishops. La Martorana ch. (12th century) has curious old Greek mosaics, Corinthian columns, and a tall campanile. See also /S. Cataldo (1161), a Sicilian-Norman ch.; S. Giovanni degli Fremiti, in form of letter T, with 5 domes, and cloisters; gorgeously ornamented Jesuits' cli.; Norman S. Francesco d' Assisi; and >S. Domenico (1640), which can hold 12,000 persons. The Museum open 10-3; 11. Sun. free) contains many Sici- lian-Greek statues and sarcophagi, Pompeian antiquities, and a picture-gallery, mainly com- posed of paintings by old Sicilian masters. The

444 ITALY. Monreale.

Royal Palace is Saracenic, with notable apart- ments added by King Roger. Robert Guiscard, Manfred, and Emperor Frederick II. Here also is magnificent Cappella Palatina (1132), the finest castle-chapel in the world, a basilica with Egyptian-granite columns, Saracenic arches, mosaics on gold, and many Arabian inscrip- tions. Superb view from Observatory. The great cloisters of the Spedale Grande (1330) are covered with frescos. Note Gothic windows of Archiepiscopal Palace; large Municipal Pa- lace; University; National Library (open 9-2); spacious and arcaded Paterno Palace; Palace of the Tribunals (1307), long the home of the m- q\xi^it\OTi ',Ganzia Monastery; rich Botariical Garden; and Porta Nuova, triumphal arch for Charles V.'s solemn entry after his victory at Tunis.

Monreale, 5 M. out, beyond the palace of the Due d'Aumale, the elegant old Saracenic palace of Cubola, the CapucJwi Monastery, where Paler- mitan patricians are kept embalmed, and rich, gardens of Villa Tasca, is a large town which has risen around the Cathedral, founded by Wil- liam II. in 1170. This is 333 x 132 ft. in area, with superb entrance; bronze doors (1186); Saracenic arches; cloisters supported on 216 columns; and over 60,000 square ft. of magni- ficent mosaics, scriptural and historical. Mon- reale is 1231 ft. above the sea, and commands famous views. More than 1,200 ft. above is ven- erable Benedictine Monastery of S. Martino, with library, museum, and views. The celebrat- ed Monte Pellegrino can be ascended in 2 hrs. See shrine and grotto of St. Rosalia, and im- mense sea-view. La Favorita is a splendid royal

ITALY. GiRGENTi. 445

villa, beyond the so-called English Garden. Nearly 3 M. out is S. Maria di Gesu, a large suppressed monastery, with favorite view of Palermo. Ancient Saracenic villas and cha- teaux of modern Sicilian nobles abound in the environs.

From Palermo it is 96 M, by rly. to

Girgenti {des Temples; Hotel Belvedere), chief town on S. coast of Sicily (21,000 inhab.). On mt. near by are ruins of Acragas (Agri- gentum), which Pindar called "the most beau- tiful city of mortals." It was founded by Cre- tans; had 200,000 inhab., and vast wealth; was destroyed by Carthage, and became a Roman colony. Here are fairly preserved ruins of Temples of Juno (with 34 columns), Hercules (38 columns). Concord (34 columns), Zeus (37 huge columns), and others, and walls, gates, cloacae, catacombs, tombs, etc., in great numbers.

Leghorn, Pisa, Lucca, Genoa, Monaco.

Tourists who have reached Naples by rly. had best return N. by sea. Steamships leave Naples twice weekly for Civita Vecchia, Leghorn, Ge- noa, and Marseilles.

Civita Vecchia {Trajano; Italia) is the forti- fied sea port of Rome (12,000 inhab.) founded by Trajan, and destroyed by Saracens (in 828). Fortress built after plans by Michael Angelo. Rly across Maremma to Leghorn. Rly. to Rome, 504 M., in 2 hrs. Time of voyage from Naples, 12^14 hrs. •

A voyage of 12 hrs., leads hence to Leghorn [Hdtel d'Angleterre; Campari: Giappone; Pal- ace), one of the chief Mediterranean ports (100,000 inhab.), fortified, well-built and mod-

440 ITALY. Pisa.

em. It was founded by the Medici family, as a refuge for the oppressed. See English Cemetery, with Smollett's tomb; fine statues of three Tuscan Grand Dukes; venerated sailors' ch. on Monte Nero; piers and quays, with busy and chattering crowds, and handsome squares and Corso.

Rly. to Pisa, 12 M.

Pisa {Hotel Vittoria; Nettuno; Grand Hotel Minerve et Villa; G-rand Hotel de Londres) is a quiet and beautiful town (30,000 inhab.) near the mouth of the Arno, and 50 M. from Florence. It was conquered by Rome, b. c. 180; adorned with temples by Augustus and Had- rian: became a rival of Venice and Genoa in Middle Ages; defeated the Saracens in many naval battles; became anti-Papal, and was de- feated by Genoa; and in 1406 became subject to Florence, It is very hot in summer, but the mildness of its winters attracts many Northern visitors to the quaint and sombre old town. It is surrounded by picturesque walls; and has 3 bridges, and a fine quay along the Arno, on and near which you may see, on N. side, many pal- aces and chs., including 13th-century S. Michele; University (1493), with Renaissance court (statue of Galileo) and valuable library; Alia, Giornata. Vitelli and Royal Palaces; 8. Nicolo (1000), once Benedictine, with statue of Fer- dinand I. in front; and Guelphic fortress, near Ponte a Mare. On S. side, 12th-century 8. Paolo, with handsome old fa(;ade; Benedictine monas- tery; Gambacorti Palace, now custom-house; S. Maria della Spina (1230), a beautiful marble Gothic chapel, with fragment of Crown of Thorns; round S. Sepolcro; and the Fortress.

ITALY. Pisa. 447

Back from the river, on N. see S. Francesco (1300), with campanile; Botanical Garden and Natural-History Museum; S. Sisto (1089); and Piazza dei Cavalieri, the old Republican forum. Here stand Palazzo de' Cavalieri. with statues, and S. Stefano (1565), ch. of Knights of St. Stephen, with Turkish trophies and notable paintings. Lord Byron lived a long time in Pa- lazzo Lanfranclii. S. Caterina (1253) has in- teresting pictures, and stands in a pleasant square, near the old Roman baths and the Lucca Gate.

In the remote N. W. corner of Pisa is a won- derful group of mediaeval buildings, nearly sur- rounded by gardens and the wall. The Cathedral, 311x106 ft. in area, and 109 ft. high in the nave, was founded in 1063, to commemorate defeat of Moslems at Palermo, and consecrated by Pope Gelasius II. in 1118. It is in magnificent Tuscan- Gothic architecture, of white and colored marbles, with remarkable fa(;ade of columns and arches, double aisles, and dome lined with Cima- bue's mosaics. Inside are 65 antique columns (trophies of Pisan conquests), a splendidly gild- ed ceiling, bronze doors designed by John of Bologna, 12 altars designed by Michael Angelo, carved pulpit by Niccoio Pisano, altars enriched with silver and lapis lazuli, many rare pictures, and swinging bronze lamp from which Galileo got the idea of the pendulum.

In front is the finest Baptistry in the world. It is round (100 ft. in diameter, and 190 ft. high); in Roman-Tuscan (1153-1278) and Go- thic styles; of marble; and surrounded with an- cient columns. Inside, see six-sided pulpit on 7

448 ITALY. LuccA.

columns, with 6 reliefs by Niccolo Pisano, and handsome font.

The leaning Tower (1174_1350), or Campanile, behind Cathedral, is 179 ft. high, in 8 stories, surrounded by colonnades, and containing 7 bells. It is 14 ft. out of the perpendicular. Grand view from top, of the Apennines, the coast, Elba, and Corsica; adm. 30c.

The Campo Santo (open daily; 11.) is an en- closure filled with scores of shiploads ol sacred earth from Mt. Calvary, and consecrated to the burial of great men. The cloistered hall which surrounds it was built 1278-83, by John of Pisa, and is 424 ft. long and 145 ft. broad, with 62 beautiful windows opening on the ver- dant court within. The walls are decorated with wonderful and curious 14th-century frescos of early Bible history and the Triumph of Death, some of which are attributed to Giotto and Or- cagna. There are many splendid monuments in these corridors, to Emperor Henry VII., Greg- ory XIII., Catalan!, etc.; and sculptures by Mino da Plesole, John of Pisa, Luca della Rob- bia, Dupre, and Thorwaldsen.

Excursions from Pisa. — To summer resort of Baths of Gomho, near which Shelley was drowned. To Certosa, a Carthusian monas- tery, 6 M. out, on the Sisan Mts. To Basilica of 8. Pietro in Grado (a. d. lOOO), 3 M. out, where St. Peter landed in Italy.

Lucca {Universo; Corona; Croce di Malta), a beautiful old walled city (45,000 inhab.), on a rich plain, and embowered in groves. A splendid Roman municipium. it afterwards be- came Gothic, Lombard, Prankish, ducal, re- publican, Psan and Tuscan; and was home of

ITALY. Genoa. 449

Dante, and principality of Napoleon's sister. See sumptuous Romanesque Cathedral (1060- 70), very rich in art; Tth-century Basilica of S. Frediano, built by Lombard kings, with rare old pictures; chs. of 8. Giovanni, 8. Romano, 8. Francesco, and 8. Michele, and old palaces; and walk around fine old ramparts. The Baths of Lucca (Hotel de V Europe; des Thermes; New York; Pavilion; Queen Victoria), 6 M. N. among the Apennines, are a collection of 19 sul- phureted ferruginous springs. This has been a famous health resort for centuries.

Pisa to Genoa, by rly., 102i M. Sea-passage, Leghorn to Genoa, 9 hrs. The rly. lies between Apennines and sea, passing Carrara, a beau- tiful town of 23,000 inhab. (mostly sculptors and majrble-workers), embowered in groves of chestnut, olive, orange, and lemon trees, and 2 hrs. from great marble-quarries, where 6,000 men are employed. La Specia (Croce di Malta; Italia) is the chief Italian naval port, strongly fortified and well equipped (66,000 inhab.) and was commended by Strabo as one of the vastest and best ports in the world. Many visitors come in summer for the sea-baths; and in winter, for the mild climate. Pleasant trip to Porto Venere (li hrs.). The rly. goes on, by 8est'ri Levante and Lavagna, along shore of Mediterranean, with charming views, and through many tunnels.

Genoa (Bristol; Modern; Eden Palace; Con- tinental; De Londres; Metropole), called by its citizens La Superba, has 211,000 inhab., and is Italy's chief commercial town. It was found- ed by Ligurians; became Roman; enriched it- self in Crusades; conquered great Levantine domains; fought many wars with Venice, Pisa,

450 ITALY. Genoa.

and the Moslems; was torn for centuries by Guelph-Ghibelline c^vil wars; maintained itself as a republic from 10th century to 19th; was annexed to France "'n 1800; and in 1816 became Sardinian. It has more imposing marble pal- aces than any other city; but the stii|ets are narrow, steep, and crooked. It presents a vast hemicycle of buildings, ranged along the hills like seats in an amphitheatre, with bold wooded heights above. Ramparts, 7 M. long, defend the city; and an outer line 20 M. long, with towers and intrenchments traverses the hills beyond. The Harbor is sheltered by 2 long piers with light-houses; and separated from the town by a high arcaded wall, by which fishermen and sailors take their ease. At end near the chief hotels, there is a marble terrace 1,500 ft. long and 45 ft. wide, affording pleasent view of har- bor. Near by is a handsome 16th-century Exchange with statue of Cavour. The Custora House contains many statues of Genoese worth- ies in its main hall. Splendid view of city, sea, and Riviera from dome of 8. Maria di Carig- nano, on high hill to S. E.

The Cathedral (1100) is of alternate bands of black and white marbles, with 16 Corinthian columns, sumptuous chapels, rare paintings, many statues, and the Holy Grail. Near by, on Piazza Niiova. see white-marble town-hall, with statues (once Ducal Palace); and 16th-century Jesuit's ch. of S. Ambrogio, with pictures by Guido and Rubens. Near by are <Sf. Matteo (1278). with many sculptures and inscriptions of Doria family; Academy of Fine Arts, with pictures and statuary; 12th-century Gothic ch. of S. Stefano, with famous picture by Giulio

ITALY. Genoa. 451

Romano; and Pallavicini and Spinola Palaces The modern Via BalM and Yia Nuova are streets of superb palaces, many of which have beautiful courtyards and staircases. Of these, notice 16th- century Municipio, with mosaic portraits of Columbus and Marco Polo (and letters of for- mer) in council hall; Brignole-Sale (Palazzo Rossa) with 8 rooms full of old paintings; Pa- lazzo Bianco, with Junctum, sculptures and me- morials of Columbus; Adorno (1500), with valuable pictures. Most of the Genoese palaces were built by (or in manner of) Alessi, a pupil of Michael Angelo. The cruciform Capuchin ch. of S. Annunziata (1587), with fluted red- marble columns and frescoed dome, is very rich. Hence the Yia BalM, a broad modern street of palaces, leads to rly. stat., passing handsome old Palazzo Durazzo; University (1622) with mu- seums, library (60,000 vols.), and ' the finest courtyard and staircase in Genoa; Palazzo Balbi, with handsome interior and court: and Royal Palace (open daily), with richly furnished halls, throne-room, and many pictures. In square by rly. stat., see fine monument to Columbus (1862), with several allegorical stat- ues and reliefs. Beyond is Palace of Doria Princes, presented to Andrea Doria, "The Father of his Country," in 1522, with splendid frescoed halls, gardens, arcades, and statues

Excursions from Genoa.— Villa Pallavicini (open 10-3 p.m.; fee 1-2 1.), with luxuriant park and gardens, magnificent views, grottos kiosques, fountains, etc. (at Pegli stat., 7^ Al •' I hr. by rly.). Campo Santo, 1* M. out, new and interesting.

The famous Corniche road leads along the

452 ITALY. Savona. — San Remo.

Rivera di Ponente from Genoa to Nice (128^ M.) through some of the finest coast and hill scenery in the world. Steamboats from Genoa to Nice, in 8-9 hrs., nearly every day.

Rly. from Genoa to Nice in 7-9 hrs. (116 M.). The journey should be by day, as the route fol- lows the Mediterranean coast through a succes- sion of beautiful and historic towns and vil- lages. Take seat on r. as far as Savona; beyond which the best views are on the 1. The line tra- verses many tunnels, through rocky promon- tories.

Savona (Pension Suisse) is an ancient city (30,000 inhab.), whose fine harbor Genoa caused to be filled up, after conquering the town. Six- tus IV. and Julius II. were born here. See Cathedral (1604); S. Domenico, with triptych by Diirer; colossal statue of Virgin on tower by harbor. Rly. hence to Turin.

San Remo (Royal; West-End; Midi; Paradis; Savoy; d'Europe; Bellevue; Mediterranee; Vic- toria; Central; de Nice), town of 20,000 inhab., on hill-slopes covered with vineyards and groves of orange, lemon, olive, pomegranate and palm trees. The climate is very mild, and attracts many English, American, German and Russian families in winter. The town is a densely popu- lated group of fortress-like mediaeval houses, with picturesque labyrinths of deep and narrow lanes. See very ancient Cathedral; lovely view from Assumption ch.; ruined Borea Palace; and hermitage of S. Romolo.

Bordighera (Royal; Angst; du Cap Ampeglio ; Belvedere; Hesperia — usually closed in sum- mer) has a beautiful site, on a hill of palm- trees, projecting into the sea, with picturesque

ITALY. BOEDIGHERA. 453

streets and houses. It was once the capital of a republic. Ruffini laid the scene of his Dr. An- tonio hereabouts. Climate is exceptionally soft in winter, with bracing quality, and is delight- ful in spring and fall. Many Americans come here. See Villa of Garnier, architect of Paris Opera-House; and palm-garden of Moreno. Vin- timiglia {Maison Doree; Suisse) is the frontier- town, where baggage is examined and travelers change cars. Be sure that your baggage is put back on train.

454 FRANCE. Mentone.-Monte Carlo.

SOUTHERN FRANCE.

AJ-ENTONE {Royal; Westminster: des Cole ^^^ mes; Balmoral; National; cle Malte Tu rm: Isles Britanniques; <r Orient; clTussie du Louvre; Winter Palace; Cap Martin Alex an- dra; Beau Rivage; Santa Maria; Siiste des Deux Mondes; the two last named are open the

T^ZIf' '^^ ^^^^^'^ ^^^ ^l««^d in summer) The old town keeps its feudal aspect with nar

trouS,:r'B?au"t^,'TP'^ "'"^ '™^ "^ ^ronciial irouDies. Beautiful excursions in vicinity Cor- mche road hence to Nice (18 J M • 3 4 hrs ) through most exquisite coast scenerV '

• r. S^'^*"'' ^Riviera Palace: 'uHronnJp-

ch.ef ,r ,'" ""; P"°"PaIity of Monaco, the chief attraction of which is its gaming esfah lishment, located in the Casino HeTfre Ifso a concert hall, theatre, and magnificent garden, ^e^h^r-^tonS^. "' '^^°"^^'- ^^rTSZ'T.

principality, under French protection, stands on

FRANCE. Nice. 455

a bold rock nearly surrounded by the sea. The ancient Palace of the Princes (open daily, 2-5 p. M., small fee) has sumptuous rooms and good frescos. Bathing establishments at foot of rock, and new hotels. Pleasant promenades, mild winter climate, and sea bathing in summer. Be- tween Monaco and Nice is Villafranca, winter headquarters of American navy in European waters.

Nice {Grand Hotel des lies Britanniques ; Metropole; Albion: de Nice; des Anglais; Grande Bretagne; Riviera Palace; Winter Pal- ace; Excelsior; Alhamttra; Terminus; Deux Maudes; the last two are open in summer, all or most of the others are then closed), a hand- some and well built city (135,000 inhab.), with an Italian aspect, is the chief of the fashionable winter-resorts on the Mediterranean coast, and has an extremely soft and agreeable climate, and lovely environs. England and Germany, Russia and America, send many invalids here. The brilliant winters are succeeded by very dull summers. It was originally a Greek colony; then Provencal, Savoyard, Sardinian, and French. Massena was born in house No. 21 Quai St. Jean Baptiste; Garibaldi, at No. 4 Rue Cassini. Pagnanini died at No. 14 Rue de la Prefecture; Halevy, at No. 5 Rue de France. The world-renowned Promenade des Anglais ex- tends along the bay for 1* M., bordered by beau- tiful villas and public establishments. See Place Massena, with bronze statue of Massena; Jardin Publique, with palm groves and good band- music; Place des PJiociens, and antique Greek fountain; remains of Castle, on hill of palm and orange groves, with magnificent view over sea

456 FRANCE. Cannes.

and mts.; old and new Hdtels de Ville; Palace of Prefecture; ancient Lascaris Palace; Natural- History Museum; Public Library; and Marble Gross. Many charming excursions to Villa- franca, Montboron, Chateau Neuf, St. Pons, Cimies^ etc. (consult hotel-porters, most of who-m speak English). It is 6 hrs. hence, by express, to Marseilles. A series of tramway lines are now in operation on the coast in the neighbor- hood of Nice and Monte Carlo.

Cannes (Hotel Splendide; Bellevue; des Pal- miers; Bristol; Continental; du Pare; Gallia; Beau 8c jour) is one of the most popular and attractive Mediterranean winter resorts, shel- tered from the winds, and frequented by people whose lungs are delicate. The English and Rus- sians monopolize it, and the latter have many handsome villas in vicinity. Magnificent sea views, including the lies de Lerins, where, on He S. Marguerite, the Man with the Iron Mask was imprisoned (1687-98), and Marshal Bazaine escaped (1874). On lie S. Honorat. ruins of one of the most famous mediaeval monasteries. Near Cannes is Antibes, a very picturesque old coast town, surrounded by walls and defended by a fort; and Golfe Jouan, where Napoleon landed from Elba.

The Marseilles rly. goes on to Frejus, with ruins of Roman theatre, amphitheatre, Gilded Gate, and aqueduct (25 M. long). From La Pau- line Stat, branch rly. to Hyeres, a favorite health resort in winter, with picturesque rocky islets off-shore and lofty mts. behind. Toulon {Grand Hotel; du Nord; Victoria; de la Paix) is the chief French naval station (100,000 inhab.) on the Mediterranean, on a deep double harbor,

FRANCE. Marseilles. 457

sheltered by Cape Sepet and defended in 1707; but Bonaparte wrested it from an English gar- rison in 1793. See Arsenal-gate, with statues; Maritime Museum; Puget's statue of Renown; prison, founded by Colbert in 1682, now depot of prisoners sentenced to transportation; Hotel de Ville, with sculptures, and in front a statue of Genius of Navigation; ancient Cathedral, with sculptures by Canova, Mignard, and Puget, and noble view from Batterie du Salut. It is 41^ M. hence to

Marseilles {Hotel de Noailles; de Bordeaux; du Louvre et de la Paix; Terminus) , the fore- most maritime city (503,000 inhab.) of France, w'hich has a long and narrow inner harbor, with large modern docks outside. It was founded by Greeks or Phoenicians, b. c. 600, under the name of Massilia; defeated the Carthaginians; estab- lished many, colonies along the coast; was con- que^-ed by Caesar, Visigoths, Franks, Saracens, and Spaniards; and in 1481 was annexed to France. Here were born Thiers, Gozlain, Puget, and Mery. The Marseilles call their La Canne- biere and the Rue Noailles, the finest streets in the world. This line of streets runs N.W. from ancient harbor, by the handsome Bourse, with the ancient harbor, by the handsome Bourse, with statues of eminent pre-Christian Massilian (Greek) navigators; the Place Roy ale ; across the shady Cours de VAthenee (statue of intrepid Bishop Belsunce), which leads to TriumpJial Arch, with sculptures of Napoleon's victories, and to rly. stat. ; across Cours St. Louis, which runs under various names 2^ M. to the N. E.; and out to Zoological Garden, near which is the handsome Palais de Longchamps (open 10-4),

458 FRANCE. Arles.

where an Ionic colonnade joins the Natural- History Museum (open Thurs. and Sun., 2-4) to the Musee des Beaux-Arts (open daily ex. Mon. and Fri., 9-12, 2-4).

See immense Docks; Canal, which cost $12,- 000,000; Ch. of Notre Dame de la Garde, on steep and far-viewing hill; splendid new Byzantine Cathedral, old Cathedral, on ruins of Temple of Diana; palatial Hotel de la Prefecture; Palais de Justice; Transporter Bridge.

In suburbs, visit noble Corniche road, the Prado, and Chateau Borely. The Chateau D'lf, built by Francis I. on an island in the harbor, was made famous by Dumas's Monte Crista.

Steamships of Messageries Maritimes, Valery Freres, Fraissinet & Co., and other lines, make Marseilles their chief port, and run to Messina, Athens, Constantinople, to Syra, Smyrna, Con- stantinople, Odessa, — returning by Athens and Naples; to Salonica; to Naples and Alexandria; to Port Said, Jaffa, Bey rout, and Syrian Coast; to Trebizond; to Madras and Calcutta; to Suez, Aden, Singapore, Hong-Kong, Shanghai, Yoko- hama (fortnightly) ; to Algiers; to Barcelona; to Nice. Genoa, Leghorn, Civita Yecchia. Naples, and New York.

From Marseilles the tourist may readily enter Spain by way of Barcelona (see page 405). Aries, Nimes. Avignon, and Lyons.

The route leads through vineyards and olive- groves, among which are ancient villages, to Aries {Grand Hotel du Forum; du Xord-Pi7ius) , a venerable Roman town (26,000 inhab.) near the Camargue. or delta of the Rhone. The Roman Amphitheatre (b. c. 43) is 1,500 ft. around, with seats for 25,000 spectators, fine

FRANCE. NiMES. 459

arcades, and dens for wild beasts. It has been a fortress of the Goths, Saracens, and Franks, some of whose towers are still standing. The remains of the Roman Theatre are very inter- esting. See also famous Roman cemetery of Champs Ely sees (mentioned by Dante) ; col- umns in Place du Forum; ruins of Thermae, and of Constantine's Palace; Roman Obelisk of Al- pine granite, set up here in 1676; Museum (in old ch. of S. Anna) of Roman statues and an- tiquities; 7th-century Cathedral, with fine por- tal and interesting cloisters; viaduct with 32 arches; and (2^ M. N. E.) imposing ruins of fortress-abbey of Montmajour, on a high rock. The women of Aries are celebrated for beauty. Nimes (Hotel du Luxembourg : du Midi; Ma7iiuet), the birthplace of Guizct and Nicot (whence nicotine), has 80,000 inhab. It was once a sacred spot in a Druidical forest : con- quered by Rome, b. c. 121; and at time of Refor- mation, scene of fierce religious wars. No other French town has such noble Roman remains. The well-preserved Amphitheatre (b. c. 140) has 35 rows of seats and 121 exits, and is 1,300 ft. around and 74 ft. high. It was made a fortress by Visigoths and Saracens; and afterwards con- tained a large village. The Maison Carree is a Roman temple, 88 x 42 ft. in area, with 30 ex- quisite Corinthian columns. Founded probably by the Antonines, it became afterwards a ch. and then a town-hall, and is now a Museum. with antique mosaics and sculptures, and sev- eral score of modern paintings. The Capitol at Richmond, Va., was modelled on plan of Mai- son Carree. See also ancient Temple of Diana (or Nymphaeum), and Roman Baths, below

460 FRANCE. Tarascon. — Avignon.

the huge and far-viewing Tourmagne, on Mount Cavalier, adorned with promenades; 2 of the Roman town-gates; Fountain; and Boulevards.

Tarascon {Hotel des Empereurs; du Petit Louvre), the city of the troubadours, and of King Rene of Anjou (13,500 inhab.), has not- able Castle, Ch. of 8. Marthe, Chapel of 8. Ga- briel, and Rue des Arcades.

Avignon {Hotel de V Europe ; du Luxembourg) is a handsome city (38,000 inhab.) on the Rhone, with. an imposing and well-preserved wall (1349-68) of hugh masonry, and many gates. On the Rocher des Dons, 300 ft. high, stands the 14th-century Cathedral, with tombs of 2 popes; La Glaciere, an ancient square prison- tower of the Inquisition, where many martyrs have died; the Papal Palace (now a barrack), a hugh and fortress-like pile, 100 ft. high, with frowning towers and a chapel frescoed by Mem- mi (about 1330) ; the old Papal Mint, etc. Splen- did view of Rhone and city from adjacent pub- lic gardens. The golden age of Avignon was during 1305-77, when 7 popes dwelt there, with all the Pontifical court. In 1351 Petrarch was a guest in the Palace, and Rienzi lay bound in its dungeons. At foot of Rocher des Dons is the Grande Place, with handsome Theatre and Ho- tel de Ville. See also Calvet Museum (1 fr.), with Roman antiquities, library, and picture- gallery; Bridge, of which but 4 arches remain; Monument to Petrarch's Laura; 17th-century Hotel Crillon; and Ch. of Grands Carmes.

Vaucluse is 12 M. distant by rly. to V Ile-sur- Sorgues, whence 4 M. by road. Here is the fountain of which Petrarch sang. The Pont du Gard, W. of Avignon, is one of the grandest

FRANCE. Lyojs-s. 461

Roman works in existence. It is an aqueduct of 3 lines of arches, over the desolate Gard Val- ley, built probably by Agrippa.

Beyond Avignon the Paris rly. passes Orange {Hotel de la Paste et des Princes), a Roman Col- ony, and afterwards capital of principality (until 1702), with large Roman Theatre (20,- 000 sittings) and Triuinphal Arch. Near Piei'- relatte are many Roman remains. Montelimart has famous mineral springs. Livron is famous for its defence by the Huguenots against Henri III. in 1574. Valence (Hotel de la Croix d' Or) is a picturesque town (20,000 inhab.), with Roman ruins; Cathedral with tomb of Pius IV.; Museum; and Maison des Tetes. Vienna (Hotel du Nord; de la Poste) , "a little French Manchester" (25,000 inhab.), on the Rhone, has Roman Temple of Augustus, with 16 Corinthian columns; 6th-century basilica of S. Pierre; venerable Cathedral, etc.

).yons (Grand Hotel; Xouvel Hotel; de riiurope: Terminus) , the second city and chief manufacturing place of France (450,000 inhab.), is at the confluence of the Rhone and Saone, and is of vast importance, commercially and strate- gically. The Perrache is the quarter between and reclaimed from the 2 rivers; and containing handsome rly. stat.. Arsenal, Barracks, Custom House, and Ch. of St. Blandine. See 13th-cen- tury Cathedral, with fagade by Philibert De- lorme; and noble tower; Museum (open 9-11, 1-4), with Roman antiquities and statues, library, and large picture-gallery (see Peru- gino's Ascension) ; Grand Theatre; noble view from pilgrimage-ch. of Notre Dame de Four- viere, on heights; Hdtel de Ville (1647), near

462 FRANCE. Besancon.

scene of massacre of 1794; Civic Library, 180,- 000 vols.; Palace of Commerce, with industrial museum; Hotel Dieu; great tobacco factories; new Bellecour Theatre; 10th-century ch. of Ab- bey of Ainay, on site of Caligula's school of rhe- toric; handsome TSte d'Or park; Ch. of S. Jean, of 12th century; and Place Bellecour. There are 16 bridges over the rivers; and the adjecent heights are covered with great forts.

Rly. from Lyons to Geneva, 4^ hrs., and to Besan(;on Besangon (Hotel de Paris) is one of the strongest fortresses in France (48,000 inhab.), with noble Cathedral, Archiepiscopal Palace, Granvelle Palace (1834), Roman Arch, and Library (120,000 vols).

Express trains, Lyons to Paris 9-10 hrs., by Macon, Chalons-sur-Sa6ne„ Dijon, etc.

Montpellier, Cette, and Perpignon, see pages 404. Biarritz and Bayonne, see page 494.

Pau, Cauterets, Bordeaux, Arcachon, Angou- Idme, Poitiers, Toulouse, Vichy, etc., see pages 498, etc.

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A ROUND TRIP IN SPAIN.

The tourist who can give ten days for a visit to the most important po'nts in Spain will never have occasion to regret it. He will find it among the most interesting and instructive of his journeys in Europe. From Marseilles we recommend you to go directly to Barcelona, from there to Valencia, and thence via La Encina to the Alcazar de San Juan. From this point you may go S. to Seville and Cordova, from Cordova to Grenada, from Grenada to Malaga, all this by rail: then from Malaga by steamer to Gibraltar; from Gibraltar to Cadiz, from Cadiz to Seville, from Seville to the Al- cazar de San Juan: from thence to Madrid, taking on the way the ancient city of Toledo; and from Madrid N. to France by Avila, Val- ladolid, Burgos, and Irun; thence to Bordeaux and Paris. That does not include several points of interest, such as for instance Saragossa, AMcante, Salamanca, etc.; but it gives a capi- tal iaea of the chief beauties o^ Spain. Even to those who feel that they cannot spend the time to go S. to Seville, Grenada, Malaga, and Gibraltar, we would recommend to try the route to Barcelona, Valencia, Toledo, and N., be- ing satisfied with half of Spain if they cannot see the whole.

Between Marseilles and Barcelona you pass

464 SPAIN. . Barcelona.

througli Montpellier (Riche; Metropole; Grand; du Midi). Here is a Cathedral founded in 1364 by Urban V.; a school of medicine with fine entrance flanked with a colossal bronze statue representing Barthez and La Peyronnic; a lib- rary of 50,000 vols., a good museum (open daily except Mon., 9-12, 1.30-4; Sun., 11-4) ; and many beautiful fountains, statues, gardens, and promenades (see especially the Peyroyi). Cette, one of the most industrious and dirtiest cities of Southern France, noted for its exports of wine, for its museum of natural history, and its bo- tanical garden, Narbonjie, and Perpignan {Grand Hotel) an old French town with a Spanish aspect. The Spanish frontier is reached at Cerbcre, in the midst of a wildly beautiful country; baggage inspection not severe. The only point of special importance through which you pass on your way to Barcelna is

Gerona {Fonda Italiana) , a large town di- vided into two sections, upper and lower, by the river Oiia. Noble view here of the Pyrenees and the distant mountains. The porch of the Cathedral is reached by a monumental stair- case of 86 steps. The interior forms one single nave, nearly 200 ft. long, sustained by immense pillars, formed of little columns almost detached from each other. Many interesting tombs here. The chief altar is one of the richest in Spain. The Bishop's Palace is very fine. Churches of San Pedro de los Galligans and San Feliu are worth seeing. The Capucin Convent contains fi small Arabic monument of wonderfully intri- cate workmanship. From Gerona it is 65 M. to

Barcelona (Gran Hotel; Colon; Inglaterra; Falcon; del Oriente; Continental; Cuatro Na-

SPAIN. Bakcelona. 465

Clones), one of the most enterprising as well as one of the most beautiful cities (500,000 inhab.) in Southern Europe. It is the residence of a Captain General of the civil governor of the province of Catalonia. The climate is tem- perate both in summer and w'nter. The new part of the city, notably in the Gracia quarter,, will remind Americans of the more beautiful sections of Boston and of Washington. The Ramdla is the principal promenade of the city,, and at noon and m the evening is thronged with all classes of the population. It runs from the Plaza de la Paz {Columhus Monument) to the Plaza de Cataluna, and from here stretches out. the beautiful Gracia avenue, which unites the city to a suburb of the same name. The Uni- versity with its library of 150,000 volumes is on. the Plaza de la Universidad, a short distance N. W. from the Cataluna Plaza. Among other squares are the Real, with interesting shops ; the Medina Cell, with statue of Marquet; del Rey^ with the Provincial Museum and Palace of the Archives; de la Constitucion, with the Casa Con- sistorial and the Casa de la Diputacion; de Pal- acio, with fine marble fountain. From the latter a short avenue leads to the Parque de la Ciiida- dela, in which are the Palace, the Pantheon, and an unimportant Museo de Reproducciones. The Lyceo, said to be the largest theatre in the- world, is built after the model of La Scala, at Milan. The Lonja, or Exchange, is of monu- mental aspect. The Casa de la Diputacion, on the palace of the Constitution, was built in the l&th-century ; fine portal. On the side fronting , on the Calle del Obispo is the exquisite fagade of the chapel of St. George, Gothic in style.

466 SPAIN. Barcelona.

The Hall of the Diputacion has many fine paint- ings; among others a number of the best works of Fortuny. Opposite is the Casa Gonsistorial, a Gothic edifice (1378). The patio, or court- yard, is much admired. The Custom House, Casa Aduana. is near the old royal palace. The Archives of the Crown of Aragon in the Plaza del Rey is a superb historical collection dating back for ten centuries. The Cathedral dates from the first centuries of the Church. It is dedicated to S. Eulalia. The first building was erected by Raymond Berenguer I. in 1058, but only part of that remains. The interior has three vast naves, ogival in style. The chief altar is in a sort of temple, supported by sculp- tured columns: at the top is a Christ upon the Cross. Beneath the ch. is a crypt, with a chapel in which are said to repose the remains of S. Eulalia: beautiful stained glass windows here. The side door on the r. leads into the cloister, which is marvellously decorated in the style of the 15th century. Notice the ironwork on the doors of the chapels: also the tomb of the dwarf buffoon of King Alfonso V. of Aragon. There are numerous other chs, of interest. Among the most striking is 8. Maria del Mar, a fine Gothic edifice. The Provincial Museum contains some good paintings by Villodomat, some by the Ca- racci, and works of Ribers and other masters. The Museo Arqueologico, in the ch. of Santa Agneda, is interesting. The Museo Estruch con- tains an interesting collection of weapons. On an isolated hill stands the Castle of Montjuich, '. which can contain a garrison of about 10,000. Barcelonetta is a little suburb chiefly inhabited by fishermen and workmen in the marine es-

SPAIN. The Balearic Islands. 467

tablishments. Gracia 's a favorite residence of the wealthier people of Barcelona.

An excursion should be made to the Immense rocky mass of Monserrat, which rises in the midst of the Caialonian plain, to the height of about 3,500 ft. above the level of the sea, at a distance of 31 M. from Barcelona. It may be reached from the stat. of Martorell, on the Tar- ragona line, or much more easily from Mo- nistrol, on the Saragossa ry., from which a car- riage rd. and mt. ry. lead to the Monastery on summit of the mt. Of the old monastery founded in 880 nothing is left but a few walls and one or two towers in Byzantine style, dating from the 15th century. The present mon- astery is composed of immense buildings, 8 stories high, without special character. The ch. is beautified with a portico, rich with statues and columns. The renown of the \irgin of Monserrat is too well known to need mention here. From the top of the mt. there is a splendid view of immense extent over the hills of Aragon, the Pj^renees, the Mediterranean shore, and in very clear weather as far as the Balearic Islands. There are several grottos filled with stalactites in the Monserrat mass.

The Balearic Islands. —There is regular com- munication between Barcelona and Palma, the capital of the old Kingdom of Majorca, and the chief town of the province which to-day bears the name of Baleares, and which comprises the islands of Majorca, Minorca, Ivica, and several others. Palma (Oran Hotel) is a pretty town with narrow streets, in the midst of a delightful country. Tliere are a few fine buildings tn it. See Lonja, or old Exchange, begun in 1426,

4G8 SPAIN. Saragossa.

finished 22 years later; the Citadel, built at the close of the 16th century: the Palace of the Captain General: the Cathedral, founded 1230, finished 1601. An excursion to Miramer, the estate of an Austrian archduke, is interest- ing. Majorca pretends to be the cradle of the Bonaparte family, because an ancestor of that house, Hugo Bonaparte, a native of Majorca, went in 1411 to Corsica as governor in the name of King Martin, wtien that island belonged to the crown of Aragon. In the island of Minorca, Port Mahon (Hotel Bustamente) is the principal town, much frequented by navigators of all nations. The English were there for a long time, and quitted the island only in 1782.

From Barcelona those who have time may find it interesting to visit Saragossa.

Saragossa {Fonda de Eiiropa; Las Cuatro Naciones) existed in the time of the Romans. Augustus Caesar founded a military colony there, to whidh he gave the name of Caesarea Augusta, whence the contraction Saragossa. The ry. stats, are some distance outside the town, which has a population of 92,000, and is sit- uated on the 1. bank of the Ebro. It is renowned for its obstinate resistance to the army of Na- poleon during the memorable siege of 1808, and still shows marks of bullets on its walls, the Gate of Nuestra Senora del Carmen is a noble memorial of the siege. From the stone bridge which unites the town with the suburb of Altabas there is a fine view of the city and the Ch. of Our Lady del Pilar. This is the object of fervent devotion on the part of Spanish Catholics. According to tradition a chapel was built here about tTie year 40 of the Christian era

SPAIN. Saragossa. 469

by the orders of the Virgin herself, who brought to it the pillar and the statue so much venerated to-day. Even when the mausoleums were in- jured at Saragossa, this chapel and the pillar were preserved. The first stone of the present ch. was laid in 1681. The interior is rather naked and cold. There are, however, some beau- tiful marble columns upholding the sculptured vault. In the Sacristy is a fine Ecce Homo at- tributed to Titian. The Gh. of San Salvador, or the Seo, that is, the Episcopal seat, is consid- ered, however, as more important than the first mentioned one. It is sumptuously ornamented, and the mysterious twilight in the 5 naves has an impressive effect. Beautiful sculptures here representing the history of the Saviour, of the adoration of the Magi, the Ascension, etc.; also several fine tombs. The Trascoro is the work of the celebrated sculptor Tudelilla, and the cha- pels are very rich. The subterranean ch. of Santa Engracia, where repose the remains of many Christian martyrs, who were slain by the soldiers of Diocletian, is interesting. The ch. was nearly destroyed by an explosion in 1808. The other chs. are too numerous to mention. The Casa Mivnicipal, the Lonja, or Exchange, with its vast rectangular hall, formed by 24 beautiful columns in four rows; the Ch. of San Pahlo ; the Aljaferia, which was a palace of pleasure for the Arab Kings; the Bull Ring; a great number of beautiful private residences; the University, which has a library of 25,000 vols.; some convents and hospitals; and the sub- urb of Santa Engracia, may all be readily seen in the course of half a day. From the little hills in the neighborhood there are very

470 SPAIN. Tarragona.

pretty views. On the way from Barcelona to Saragossa you pass througJi

Lerida {Fo7ida Suiza; De Espana). From here there is rail to Tarragona. The old Cathedral is a magnificent mass of Byzantine Gothic re- mains, mixed with various Arabic styles; pic- turesque and rich cloister. The new Cathedral built under Charles III., is a fine Corinthian edifice with 3 naves, surrounded with a great number of chapels and many fine altars.

The excursion to Saragossa is rather out of the limits which we had assigned for a brief jour- ney through Spain. We recommend the tourist to go through Tarragona along the coast to Valencia. You leave Barcelona very early in the morning and reach Valencia about 8 or 9 in the evening. Take your provisions with you from the hotel. The journey affords a fine series of contrasted views of Spanish scenery. After leaving Tarragona you pass through re- markably wild scenery along the base of rocky mts.. and then descend into the delicious land- scape in the neighborhood of Valencia, filled with groves of oranges and lemons, and with a great variety of semi-tropi-cal shrubs.

Tarragona (Paris; Europa) is a very old town of about 30,000 inhab., once the centre of the Roman power in Spain. Not far away are the sites of some of Hannibal's battles. The Paseo de Santa Clara is built over the remains of the Roman Walls. Very ancient gates here. Some of the modern residences are built with the debris of temples and of Roman palaces. The Place of the Constitution is on the site of an old Roman circus. The Cathedral is Gothic in style; interior vast, aspect majestic, orna-

SPAIN. Valencia. 471

ments sober but heavy, pillars shrouded in old Italian tapestries, many marble tombs and statues; beautiful cloisters. In a chapel are the remains of Don Jaime I., King of Aragon, and his wife. Old Aqueduct here. The next place of importance is Tortosa, a strongly fortified city on the 1. bank of the Ebro (25,000 inhab.). Imposing fortifications. Cathedral of little im- portance. Shortly hefore reaching Valencia you pass Murviedro, near which are the ruins of the celebrated and ancient city of Saguntum. If you go to to these ruins, visit them at midday. Valencia {Gran Hotel; Espana; Paris) is the chief town (160,000 inhab.) of the province of the same name, the residence of a captain gen- eral and of the archbishop. It is beautifully sit- uated in the midst of a great number of groves and gardens. About 2^ M. distant is its port, called El Grao. which is accessible for large steamships. Valencia may be seen in short time. The first impression of it is not imposing, but the beauties of its natural situation and its architecture grow upon one. The principal squares are those oi the Constitution, where is the city hah; that of S. Francisco; that of S. Domingo, a market-place, which is well worth spending an hour or two in when the peasantry from the neighboring mts. are there; the cele- brated Exchange and the Silk Hall. The Audi- encia is a fine building of the 16th century. The principal halls are ornamented with good portraits. The Archiepiscopal Palace is con- nected with the Cathedral by a bridge. The Cathedral dates from 1262. The largest tower is called El Miguelcie. from the name of the big bell wh'ch was baptized in the name of S.

472 SPAIN. Alicante.

Michael. From the platform of the tower, splendid v^'ew of the sea and the coast. The interior is formed of 3 vaulted naves supported bj- square pillars with Corinth'an capitals. High mass in this eh. is a splendid spectacle. Visit the Sala Capitular, immense quantity of relics, ornaments, archives, books, and MSS. The Ch. of 8. Catalina has an old mosaic. Its tower is beautiful. In the Ch. of S. Juan del Hospital is the tomb of one of the Empresses of Constantinople. The old home of the Jesuits is occupied by the civil government. Very fine hospitals here. The UniversHy buildings are not remarkable. In the Church of Corpus Christi is a beautiful Cena by Ribalta. An in- visible mechanism wmds up his canvas and opens 4 great curtains showing a superb cru- cifix, which is much venerated by the Valeur cians. The Provincial Museum is in the old convent del Carmen (9-4, ^ fr.. Sun 10-2 free) ; it contains numerous old pictures, though few of great merit. The Theatre is large, but with- out character. The Bull Ring is immense. The principal promenades are the Almeda, the Bota- nical Garden and the Glorieta. Pretty walks by the banks of the river. In the tobacco-factory, 3500 women are occupied. The Valencian wo- men are renowned for their beauty. From Va- lencia you may go to Alicante via La Encina. Alicante {Reina Victoria; Fonda de Bossio) is a fine seaport (40,000 inhab.). The town has no remarkable architectural features. The streets are large and well paved. The Alameda de la Reina is pretty. The City Hall, flanked with 4 towers, is quite imposing. Neither of the 2 chs. is worth much study. The Convent of S.

SPAIN. Albacete. 473

Clara, or of the Holy Face, as it is called, pos- sesses a much venerated relic, the handkerchief with which S. Veronica wiped the sweat from the brow of the Saviour. The Citadel of S. Bar- bara is supposed to he impregnable. You may also go to Alicante by Alcoy and Jativa. This last mentioned town is beautifully situated on a mt.-chain, overlooking a magnificently culti- vated plain. On the flanks of the hills are the walls of an old fortress. A French writer says that the rly. here seems to be the alley through a region of gardens. Returning form Alicante to La Encina you may take ticket to the Alcazar de S. Juan, or directly to Madrid. On the way you pass.

Albacete (Fonda Francisquillo) , renowned for its manufacture of knives. Specimens of the merchandise are always offered by peddlers to passengers on the trains. The Alcazar de S. Juan is where the lines to Andalusia and to Portugal branch off from the main line from Madrid to Valencia. It is an old town which the Order of the Knights of St. John made its headquarters. Decent refreshment-room here. Attend carefully to your baggage. From the Alcazar de S. Juan to Cordova the journey is one of the most interesting in Spain, and de- cends into Andalusia. At Manzanares the line to Ciudad Real and Portugal branches off. You pass through Val de Penas, whence you get a good view of the Sierra Morena. Between the Alcazar and the Val de Penas lies much of the country described in Do7i Quixote. Many in- teresting points on the line. Notice Almuradieh and Vilches. near which is the great plain where in 1212 a Christian army defeated the great

474 SPAIN. Cordova.

Mussulman hordes under the command of Ma- homed al Nassr. At Mengibar there is a fine bridge over the Guadalquivir. At Andujar there is little of importance to be seen except the large ch. in what is known as. the Plateresque style of architecture.

Cordova (Fonda de Espana; Suiza; Simon) is an old town of 55,000 inhab., situated in a delicious plain on the r. bank of the Guadal- quivir, in full view of the slopes of the Sierra Morena. Cordova has sumptuous museum of antiquities: a great collection of edifices of all epochs; and is divided into two parts by one long street, the Calle de la Feria, the principal artery for the commerce of the city. The walls which still surround it are flanked with towers, octagonal, cylindrical, or square, which were the work of successive generations of Saracen and Christian architects. The Plaza de la Consti- tution is surrounded by fine buildings. The old stone bridge over the stream is attributed to Octavius Augustus. The principal objects of interest are the old Alcazar, and the garden of the Moorish kings, adjacent to it. For per- mission to enter address the porter. The new Alcazar is to-day a prison. The Episcopal Pal- ace is built of very rich materials but not in re- markably good taste: fine gardens and good li- brary. Curious collection of portraits of all the bishops of Cordova. Near this palace is the Tri- unfo, a handsome marble monument, surmoun- ted with a column which bears a gilded bronze statue of St. Raphael. A great number of the houses in the city are ornamented with in- scriptions in honor of emperors, consuls, magis-

SPAIN. Cordova. 475

trates, etc. The modern Bull Ring is near the rly. station.

The Mosque, now the Cathedral, is certainly one of the most remarkable edifices in the world. It was founded in 786 by Abdurrahman I., and completed finally in 990. The exterior is rather gloomy; the courtyard within, remarkably beautiful. It has colonnades on 3 sides, with fountains in the centre, and is planted with orange and cypress trees. The interior of the Cathedral has been somewhat aptly described as a "marble grove." The roof is supported by a vast number of slender pillars, beautifully wrought with Corinthian capitals and shafts of various colored marbles, of jasper, porphyry, etc. The principal entrance, called the Puerta del Perdon, opens into the beautiful Court of Oranges. The Milirah, or the Holy of Holies, is very curious. The Mosque was converted into a Cathedral on the 25th of June, 1236. In the Cole- giata de San Hipolito are two urns containing the ashes of King Alfonso XL and his father, Ferdinand IV.; also the tomb of the celebra- ted chronicler, Ambrosio de Morales. The chs. of S. Pedro and of S. Marina are also worth seeing. The Convent of S. Pa'blo has beautiful cloisters and a magnificent staircase. Many other convents are rich in works of art. .Just outside town is the sanctuary of Our Lady of la Fuen Santa; great public festival here on the 8th, 9th, and 10th of Sept. An excursion to the Ermitas in the Sierra Morena is worth while. From Cordova to Granada the distance is 153^ ^I. On the way you pass Montilla, which is one of the most beautiful places in Andalusia. Here the Great Captain, Gonzalvo de Cordova, was born. At BobadiUa a branch line to the r.

476 SPAIN. Granada.

goes to Malaga (refreshment room here) Antequera is an old fortress, said to have beer built in Roman times. Notice the colossa bronze angel on the cupola of the eh. of Sar Sebastian; also the Arch of Hercules, a Romac ruin.

Granada (Washington Irving and Roma, near Alhambra; Alameda, Victoria, and Nuevo Ori ente. in the town), a city of 72,000 inhabitants, is world famous, and we shall only briefly indi- cate the best way to visit the Alhambra and the other curiosities of the town in a short time. Granada is grouped on the slopes of 3 hills. The Torres Bermejas, or Scarlet Towers, so called because of their color, are on the first and the last of these hills. The Alhambra, which is a city in itself, covers the second and the highest. The Albaycin is on the third, sep- arated from the others by a deep ravine filled with rank vegetation. Through this ravine runs the torrent of the Darro. Granada itself is di- vided into 4 large sections. The modern city occupies the part of the valley between the hills of the Albaycin and the Alhambra. Notice the Plaza del Triunfo, at the end of which is the Bull Ring. On this Plaza is a white marble column, with statue of the Virgin, and also a monument to Mariana Pineda a martyr to the cause of freedom. Here also are the Royal Hos- pital and the Convent of the Merced. On the Plaza Nueva, reached by the Zacatin, is the fine edifice of the Audiencia. See the Ch. of Santa Ana. Here is a University, with rich library and a rather inferior collection of pic- tures. The Cathedral, to be seen from 8 a. m. to noon and 3 to 5 p. m., has a fine front orna-

SPAIN. Graxada. 477

mented with statues and bas-reliefs. Interior has 5 naves, supported by 20 enormous pillars, formed of columns grouped together. The Door of the Pardon is very fine. The Capilla del Pilar is filled with beautiful marbles. See the group of "Charity" in the Sala Cap- itular, the work of Torn'giani, the Florentine artist, who was the rival of Michael Angelo. The Capilla Mayor is one of the most richly decorated in Spain. The Royal CJiapel was built to receive the remains of Ferdinand and Isa- bella, and here are their tombs. The two royal statues lie on the sarcophagus: two lions re- pose at their feet. Here are the crown and the sceptre of Isabella, and the sword of Ferdinand. In a second mausoleum near by are the remains of Queen Joanna, who was insane, and Phillip her husband. The tower of the Cathedral is unfinished.

The Alhambra is o^en daily from 8 to 12 a. m. and 1.30 to 5 p. m. Leaving the Plaza Nueva you scale the Cuesta de los Gomeres. At the top of this street you find the Puerta de las Grana- das, a kind of triumphal arch built by Charles V., where formerly stood an ancient Arabic gate. Beyond this lie the groves and the gardens which surround the Alhambra. We will simply enumerate the objects to be seen. The Pilar de Cai'los v., ornamented with statues; the Puerta de Juicio, or Door of Judgment, the Plaza de los Algiheo, or Place of the Cisterns; the Puerta de Vino; the Palace of Cliarles Y., a fine Renais- sance structure, but unfinished. The centre is occupied by a circular patio or court, sur- rounded by a vaulted gallery supported by 32 Doric columns in marble. The Alhambra, a mar-

478 SPAIN. Granada.

vellous Arabic palace, occupied a rectangle of 400 ft. long by 250 wide. It comprised 5 inte- rior courts. The principal fagade, which was to the N., was demolished to* make room for the Palace of Charles V. Its main entrance opened on the Patio de los Arrayanes, and you can enter it to-day only through a small corridor behind the N. facade of the Imperial palace. The Hall of the Ambassadors, the Tocador, and the Mi- rador, or toilet rooms of the Queen, the Patio de la Mezquita, the Hall of the Baths, the Patio de las Rajas, the Court of Lions, the most pre- cious specimen of Arabesque architecture in Spain, with 128 white marble columns in the galleries surrounding it, with a floor of white marble, a noble fountain, and 12 great sculp- tured lions. The Halls of the Tribunal, of the Dos Hermanas (the Two Sisters), and the Hall of the Al)encerrages, should be carefully stu- died. In the hall of the Two Sisters is the famous Alhambra Vase, the finest known ex- ample of Hispano-Moresque faience. The Royal Chapel, which is rarely open, contains a great variety of artistic treasures. From the platform of the Tower of the Vela there is an admirable view. Visit also the Adarves, a line of old bastions transformed into gardens, also the ch. of Santa Maria, the Towers of the Cautivas, of the Carceles, of Los Siete Suelos, del Agua, de las Infayitas and many others, should be care- fully inspected. To visit the Generalife you leave by the Los Picos Gate, and go down the hill by a route which crosses the ravine of Los Molinos, and which then climbs the foot of the hills of a neighboring mt. The Gen- eralife was the pleasure house of the Alhambra.

SPAIN. Malaga. 479

But little remains of it except a few arcades and some beautiful arabesques. In one of the few halls which are still covered with a roof, there is a series of smoky portraits of the Kings of Spain, which have only a chronological merit. "From the Tower of the Generalife," says a French writer, "you fancy that you can touch the Sierra Nevada, so pure and limpid is the air through which you} see that mountain chain." There are a gi-eat many beautiful ex- cursions in the neighborhood of the Alhambra, but to enjoy them one must remain in the vi- cinity at least a week. The gypsy encampments in the country-side are very interesting, but the prudent traveller will scarcely care to ven- ture among them without a stout escort, and a pocketful of small change, for they are impor- tunate beggars. From Granada the distance to Malaga by rail is 119 M.

Malaga {Regma, on the Alameda; Colon; Ville Camera; Belvedere), with 135,000 inhab., may be easily seen in half a day. The exqui- site climate and the beautiful situation of the town are its chief attractions. The Episcopal Palace, the City Hall, the new Custom House. the Theatre, which can contain 2,000 spectators, the vast Bull Ring, which holds 10,000, are not architecturally remarkable. The Alcazaba is an ancient fortress which antedates the Arabic occupation. The Atarazana is an old arsenal of the Moors. The castle of Gibralfaro is on a hill to the E. of the city. The highest tower is an imposing mass sustained by 4 arches and near 100 ft. high. Good view from this tower. The most beautiful promenade in this town is the Alameda; many pretty fountains and stat-

480 SPAIN. Gibraltar.

ues here. The Cathedral, which would be rich in any other country, is not remarkable for Spain. All through this country grow wheat, oats, olives, all kinds of fruit': orange, lemon, and fig trees are abundant. Try and time your visit to Granada so as to connect with the steamer going to Gibraltar.

Gibraltar {Bristol; Grand; Continental) is a city situated on a slope on the W. part of the famous rock and facing the bay. It has about 28,000 inhab. exclusive of the English garrison of 6,000 men. Main Street is the principal artery of the town. A narrow road connects the mainland with the rock, and this is guarded by batteries. From top to bottom the mt. is full of excavations, and out of every one looks the mouth of a cannon. At summit is an unfinished tower, called O'Hara's or St. George's. It was in- tended to be sufficiently high to enable the sen- tinels to overlook the Bay of Cadiz and see the movements there. In 1704 the English fleet, sustaining the rights of the Archduke Charles of Austria to the crown of Spain against Philip v., presented itself before Gibraltar, the fortifi- cations of which were then in ruins and occu- pied by a garrison of 80 men. The town was taken, and although in the name of the arch- duke, England thought it proper to keep it. Various attempts to take it back were made in 1727, 1779, and 1782, but without success. The fortifications can be visited with special permis- sion, which may be easily obtained at the hotels. There is also a good club to which strangers may be presented. Excursions may be made from Gibraltar to several interesting points on the African coast, notably Ceuta and Tangier.

SPAIN. Cadiz. 481

Opposite Gibraltar is the town of Algeciras (Hotel Reina Christina), the occasional scene of international conferences. It is a typically Spanish town situated on a beautiful bay and commanding a fine view of the rock and fortifi- cations of Gibraltar.

Cadiz (Hotel Continental; Fonda de Francia; Fonda de Cadiz) is one of the most charming of Spanish towns (64,000 inhab.). It is on a penin- sula, which extends into the ocean, and is gen- erally considered the most agreeable town in Andalusia. It is strongly fortified, and its posi- tion is well calculated for defence. Notice the Fort of S. Catalina; also the Fort of S. Sebas- tian. From the Torre de la Vigia, in the centre of the town, you get an admirable view of Cadiz and its surroundings. Nearly all the houses are white, and their terraces and balconies are very picturesque. The Casas Consistorialeb occupy fine buildings on the Plaza de Isabel Segunda. The Alameda is a fine promenade on one of the ramparts N. E. of the city. The Park Genoves is a fine pleasure ground with sea view. There are many colleges and seminaries, as well as an Academy of Fine Arts and numerous libraries. The new Cathedral, which is at the south end of the town, is not a very successful piece of archi- tecture. A great profusion of marbles has been used in its decoration, but the general effect is confused and disagreeable. The Treas- ury is rich in relics, jewels, etc. The old Cathe- dral has fallen into decay. In the chapel of the Convent of S. Catalina are some pictures by Murillo. Steam communication between Cadiz and Portugal. England, Holland, the French and German coasts, and Mexico, is very frequent.

482 SPAIN. Seville.

You may go from Cadiz to Seville by steam- boat, on the Guadalquivir, in 8 hrs.; fares, 15p.; breakfast on board from 2 to 3 p. The journey is pretty, but most travellers will probably pre- fer the rail route, about 82| M.; passing through Jerez de la Frontera, a pretty tov^n, enriched by commerce in wine and other products of its generous soil. Here see curious monastery, mu- seum, finely decorated city hall. About 2 M. S. E. of the town is a noted Carthusian mon- astery.

Seville (Hotel de Madrid; de Paris; de Ingla- terra; de Oriente), with 143,000 inhabitants, re- quires a comparatively long visit. We will not attempt to describe it in detail, but will simply indicate the things to see. Seville has kept its ancient character pretty well. Most of its streets are narrow and crooked, and nearly all the houses have their patios, or inner courtyards, separated from the street by vestibules paved with white and black marble, and closed by doors of iron gratings beautifully worked by skilful artisans. The Plaza S. Fernando is a vast square which in the morning is inundated with sunlight, and is planted with orange-trees, and surrounded on three sides by hotels and boarding-houses, and on the fourth by the Pal- ace of the Ayuntamiento. The Calle de Genova, at the S. W. angle of the square, leads to the

Cathedral. — This marvellous ch., with its fa- mous tower of the Giralda, is a city in itself. Nowhere else in Europe is the splendor and ■ majesty of the Catholic religion so well seen as here. The Giralda, a veritable marvel of Arab architecture, was the minaret of the old mosque of the Moorish Kings, who governed Seville

SPAIN. Seville. 483

after the destruction of the Khalifate. It was built during the 12th century by the Arab El Ghebir, who was the inventor of algebra. The tower is 350 ft. high. In 1568 it was capped with a belfry, which in its turn is surrounded by an enormous statue of Faith, which despite its immense weight serves as a weather-vane. The Cathedral proper was begun in 1403, fln- ished 1519, but owing to weakness of construc- tion and damage by earthquake has undergone several restorations. The most striking entrance is the Puerta del Perdon. which was probably in the old times the entrance to a minaret. It opens on the Orange Court, from which you pass under a fine Arabic arch into the Cathedral by the so-called Lizard Door. Notice especially the Chief Altar, the Choir, the gigantic Organs, the Tomb of Fernando Golumhus, the Capilla Real, which contains the tomb of St. Ferdinand, and the tomb of Alfonso the Wise; also a portrait of Ferdinand, by Murillo, in the chapel of the Baptistry. Observe the noted picture represent- ing St. Anthony of Padua, which was cut out of its frame and carried off to New York in 1875, and has now been restored. In the upper sac- risty there- are also several paintings by the same artist. In the sacristy of Los Calices is a St. Dorothea by Murillo, an "Ecce Homo" by Morales, and a remarkable painting by Goya. In the Sacristia Mayor is the vast and magnificent custodia in silver made in 1587 by Juan de Arte. It is in the form of a circular temple, crowned with a statue of St. John and covered with a most prodigious number of ornaments and stat- ues. Seville during Holy Week presents a con- stant succession of curious spectacles, religious

484 SPAIN. Seville.

in character. From the top of the Giralda Tower, which is reached by an inclined plane, up which it is said two horses can be ridden abreast, good view of the town, the river winding through the plains, and the hills beyond. Leav- ing the Cathedral by the Giralda Door, you reach the square on which is the Archbishop's Palace. Thence go around the Cathedral to the Plaza del Triunfo, where is a monument com- memorating the earthquake of 1755. In the middle of this square is the Lonja, where is precious collection of documents relative to the discovery and conquest of America. This is called the Indian archives. Not far away is

The Alcazar. — This is, with the Mosque at Cordova and the Alhambra at Granada, the most beautiful Moorish monument in Spain. It was connected with the great walls that ran round Seville in the time of the Arabs. In the Alcazar were born and died the Kings Alfonso the Wise, Don Sancho IV., and Alfonso XL, father of Don Pedro the Cruel. The local guides, who are very civil and obliging, and satisfied with reasonable pay, will give you full description of the beau- ties of the Alcazar. Ask the guide to take you through the modern royal rooms, inhabited by the Monarchs of Spain whenever they visit Se- ville. The gardens of the Alcazar are delightful.

The Casa de Pilatos, or House of Pilate, is an edifice built at the beginning of the 16th cen- tury, by the first Marquis of Tarifa. Tradition says he had brought back from a journey made to Jerusalem in 1519 a quantity of earth from the very house of Pontius Pilate, and this was sufficient to form the layer on which were laid the foundaitions of the present palace, built on

SPAIN. Seville. 485

the plans of the dwelling of Pilate at Jerusalem. There are a great number of curious and inter- esting palaces and private houses to be seen in Seville. The Casa de los Taveros, w^here the tri- bunal of the Inquisition had its sitting, will at- tract the traveller's attention. The guides pro- cure admission for you to the patios of the rich- est houses, where you can get an idea of the luxury and beauty of these southern Spani -h residences. The Gh. of S. Martino has some good pictures. The Hospital of La Caridad, or the Charity, near the Golden Tower, which stands on the bank of the Guadalquivir, con- tains several of Murillo's best paintings. The provincial museum is also quite rich in works of Murillo, Zurbaran, and other noted artists. Mu- rillo was born in Seville, Jan. 1, 1618. The Pal- ace of Santelmo, the residence of the Duke of Montpensier, is one of the marvels of this city. Its gardens now form the Parque Maria Luisa. Seville is as busy and thriving as Cordova is deserted and shabby. The banks of the Guadal- quivir are lined with warehouses, and the traffic is very brisk. From Seville, if you adopt our plan for a short Spanish journey, we recom- mend you to proceed directly to Madrid. If you have not stopped at Cordova on your way dow^n, but have gone directly through from the Alca- zar de S. Juan, as many do, you may halt there on your return journey. Time from Seville to Cordova, nearly 4 hrs. From Cordova to Madrid it is 274^ M. ; time by ordinary trains, 16 hrs. The express trains are somewhat faster and more expensive. In the late summer and au- tumn months there is an express train, 3 times a week each way, between Madrid and Seville.

486 SPAIN. Madrid.

Between the Alcazar de S. Juan and Madrid is the station of GastilHjo. where you may branch off to Toledo, but we do not recommend this. It is better to go to Madrid first ; then to make the Toledo visit a round-trip excursion of one day. A little beyond Castillijo is

Aranjuez, with refreshment buffet, at the Cafe Casino. This is one of the summer residences of the Spanish court. Here is a palace, beauti- fully situated, commanding an immense view; but there is little that is architecturally striking in the building. The gardens are quite remark- able. The river Tagus flows through the domain.

Madrid iG-ran Hotel de la Paz; de Roma; de Paris; Ingles; Guatro Naziones; Peninsular; Oriente), with 510,000 inhab., is the capital of Spain, the residence of the Court, and contains the finest paintings in Europe. John Hay said of Madrid that it v/as a "capital with malice aforethought," by which he alluded to its situa- tion in the midst of a great arid plain, swept in winter by the murderous winds from the mts. We recommend the tourist to devote his chief attention to the museum; then, if his time per- mits, to include the other edifices and collections of Madrid.

The Museo del Prado contains vast and abso- lutely unrivalled collection of the works of the old masters, but they are not very well ar- ranged. Two immense galleries are consecrated to Spanish painters, and others contain the dif- ferent Italian, French, Flemish, and Dutch schools. Some idea of the riches of the museum can be formed from the statement that it con- tains 46 pictures by Murillo, 14 by Zurbaran, 58 by Ribera, 64 by Velasquez, 55 by Teniers, 16 by

SPAIN. Madrid. 487

Rubens, 10 by Raphael, 20 by Poussin, 66 by Luca Giordano, 22 by Van Dyck, 54 by Breughel, 16 by Claude Lorraine, 16 by G-uido Reni, 43 by Titian, 54 by Tintoretto, and 25 by Paul Vero- nese. About half-way down the principal gal- lery a door opens into an oval hall called the Salon de la Reyna Isadel. Here are grouped to- gether the chefs d'oeuvre of the museum. The guardians are very attentive. Catalogues edited with great care may be had at the booksellers', or at the museum.

In the Real Academia de Bellas Artes there is a collection of about 300 pictures, in 11 large rooms; Murillo, Goya, Rubens, and Zurbaran are well represented. The Museo de Arte Mo- derno contains modern Spanish paintings and sculptures. There are several interesting pri- vate collections in Madrid. The couriers at the hotels will indicate them to you.

The Royal Palace (Palacio Real) is situated in the W. part of the town. Among the 30 rooms on the 1st floor, the largest and finest is the Hall of the AmJ)assado7-s. The vault was paint- ed by Tiepolo, and represents the exaltation of the Spanish monarchs. The walls are draped with velvet embroidered with gold, and 12 im- mense mirrors also decorate it. On the r. of the throne, which is guarded by 4 gilded bronze lions, is a statue of Prudence, and on the 1. that of Justice. The chapel is extremely rich, but not very handsome. The library, the theatre, the magnificent collection of Flemish tapestries, should be seen. On the S. of the square of the Palacio Real is the Armeria (Museum of Ar- mor), which contains an extremely interesting collection. Here are, among many relics of fa-

488 SPAIN. Madrid.

mous dead, the sword of the Cid Campeador, that of the Great Captain, Gonzalvo of Cordova, and that of Don Juan of Austria; also the hel- met of Francis I. The Military Museum of Ar- tillery, at the Buenretiro, is also worth visiting. At the entrance are colossal statues of Philip IV. and Louis I. The museum gives a compilete review of the progress made in artillery from the 12th to the 17th century. Here also are many flags carried during the Spanish conquest of America. The naval museum, the cabinet of natural history, the botanical garden, the library (small but good) deserve a visit. Madrid has several important libraries, most noticeable among which are those of the University and of the legislative bodies.

The Palace of the Congress, or Chamber of Deputies, is a handsome building, but not very remarkable. Its interior is very richly orna- mented with fine paintings: that of the Senate occupies the old ch. of an Augustinian convent. In the great square of the Puerta del Sol is the Ministry of the Interior, formerly a post-office. The other public buildings and the Palaces are rather cold and formal in structure. The effect of the architecture of Madrid is not pleasing, compared with the wonderful richness of deco- ration to which the eye has become accustomed in Southern Spain. See in the Plaza Mayor the equestrian statue of Philip III.; and in the Plaza cle Oriente the statue of Philip IV. In the Plaza cle las Cortes is a statue of Cervantes. None of the churches is particularly striking; the Cathedral de Nuestra Sefiora de la Almu- dena is on the site of the old Armory. The Ch. of the Atocha, a modern Romanesque structure,

SPAIN. Madrid. 489

contains the tombs of General Castanos, of Marshal Prim, and of other notabilities. In the old church the marriages of the royal family were celebrated, and the troops took the oath of allegiance. The cemeteries of the neighborhood of Madrid, with their long rows of walls in which the dead are sealed up, are very interesting. The Plaza de Toros, or the Bull Ring of Madrid, is one of the largest in the kingdom. It is a structure in Arabic style, built of brick, stone, and iron, and can seat 12,300 people. Every seat is numbered, and tickets to the bull-fights, which are usually given every Sunday from April to October, are comparatively inexpensive. Be careful in choosing your place to note that it is on the shady side {om'bra) . This is very important in Spain. The comic opera and some of the minor theatres should be visited. The prado is a large boulevard which runs round a great part of the city, from the old Atocha gate to the Puerta de Recoletos. The Royal Museum is on this boulevard. Here on summer evenings is a magnificent display of Spanish beauty; commemorative monument here to the second of May, one of the episodes of the French occupa- tion of 1808. There are numerous other fine promenades within the city. The Puerta de Alcala, an arch of triumph to commemorate the entry of Charles III. into Madrid, may be seen on the w^ay to the Bull Ring. The Puerta de Toledo was built to celebrate the return of Fer- dinand VII. from his captivity. The Plaza de Madrid is quite fine. There are several bridges over the little river Monzanares, which oddly enough is for the greater part of the year with- out any water in its channel. The Pwerta del

490 SPAIN. Madrid.

Sol is a gay plaza in the centre of the city. About 7 M. from Madrid, on the r. bank of the Manzanares, is the Royal Palace of the Pardo. Excursion to the Escurial may be made. It is 31* M. from Madrid: five trains daily; fares, 6 p. 15, 4 p. 60. The Escurial is called by the Spaniards the eighth wonder of the world. Philip II. built it in 1685 to commemorate the taking of St. Quentin, and to accomplish a vow which he made to St. Lawrence. This vast build- ing has 15 principal entrances, and more than 1,100 windows. It is entirely built of granite, and its appearance is monotonous and cold. The ch., the Capilla Mayor, filled with royal monu- ments, the sacristy, a vast vaulted hall with a marble altar ornamented with bronze, the choir, and the pantheon or vault, where the kings of S:pain are buried, are the principal things to see. You reach the pantheon by a magnificent staircase of granite and marble. The urn con- taining the remains of Charles V. was opened in 1870, and the body was even then in perfect preservation. The Library of books and the MS. Library will attract the attention of scholars. The main entrance to the palace is in the middle of the N. fagade. See the Hall of Battles, cov- ered with frescos representing Spanish con- quests; and the apartments in which Philip IL lived and died. The Pavilion of Charles IV., called the Casa del Principe, is a charming little museum of paintings, sculptures, and mosaics. See the King's Seat, where Philip II. came to sit when presiding over the work of the palace. The royal abode of La Granja is on the route from Madrid to Segovia. Its apartments are

SPAIN. Toledo. 491

said to be even more splendid than those of the palace at Madrid.

There are two routes from Madrid to the an- cient and picturesque town of Toledo. One leads through the royal residence town of Aranjuez; the other is a little more direct ; fares about the same by both lines.

Toledo (Hotel Castilla; Fonda de Lino; Im- perial) is one of the most remarkable towns in Europe. The rly. stat. is in the valley at the foot of the hill, near the fine old Alcantara Bridge. An omnibus takes passengers from the train to the top of the hill. On the way up ob- serve the fine view in the valley, where old To- ledo, which was a town of 200,000 inhab., was situated. The Toledo of to-day has only about 20,000. The river Tagus makes a great curve around the town. It is crossed by the Alcantara and the >Sf. Martino Bridges. The aspect of the city is majestic. Immense ramparts on the rocks; great gates flanked with Moorish towers: old Puerta Visagra. which dates from the Arabic domination; the celebrated Puerta del Sol, in the interior of the city, a chef d'oeiivre of Arabic architecture, are all impressive. The principal square is the bid Zocodover. to-day called the Place of the Constitution. The principal objects of interest are the Cathedral, the Alcazar, the celebrated Ch. and Convent of 8. Juan de los Reyes, and a military college. The Cathedral was begun in 1227, and finished 2^ centuries later. Its architecture is pure Gothic; exterior of great majesty. The principal W. front has 3 doors, called those of the Escribanos, the Per- don, and the Torre. Door of the Pardon is the largest and richest. To the r. of the facade is

492 * SPAIN. Yalladolid.

the tower: on the 1. the Mozarabic chapel. The tower is nearly 300 ft. high, and the great bell in it weighs nearly 40,000 lbs. The beauties of the Cathedral are so numerous that we renounce a detailed description of them here. Observe particularly the Door of the Lions and its rich chapels, the Capilla Mayor, the wonderful effect of the vast range of stained-glass windows, espe- cially when the sun is shining through them in the morning, the Coro, and the beautiful GrOthic portal of the 8ala Capitular. The Tornbs of the Constable Don Alvaro de Lima and of the Car- dinal de Albornoz are very imposing.

The Gh. of S. Juan de los Reyes (1477) is ornamented with a great number of chains hung on the walls outside, memorials of captivities among Moslems. The cloisters, recently re- stored, are among the most beautiful in the world. The stone sculptures here are of extraor- dinary delicacy and finish. The provincial mu- seum contains a collection of about 300 pictures. 8. Maria la Blanca is a curious memorial of the Jewish epoch. The Military College contains about 600 cadets, who study their profession here from the age of 13 to 18 years. The Alcazar is a superb edifice which crosses the highest point of the hill on which the city is built. Ait the 4 angles of its walls are square towers. The courtyard is formed of .82 arcades. It has been three times burned and three times restored. In the court is a group commemorating the con- quest of Tunis by Charles V. See the Paseo de las Rosas; the Paseo de Madrid.

Valladolid (Hotel Espafiol; Francia; Moder- no) is the next place of interest; although from the junction of Medina del Campo you can go

SPAIN. Burgos. 493

by branch lines to the old university town of Salamanca, or to Zamora. Valladolid is a town of 65,000 inhab., on the Pisuerga. Here see University, Cathedral, Santa Maria la Antigua, San Pablo, Golegio de San Gregorio, Museum, Columbus Monument, House of Cervantes, Royal Palace. The University Library has a collection of Bibles. See Juan de Juni's "Virgen de los Cuchillos" in the church of Las Angustias, and house where Columbus died in 1506. The Mu- seum of Valladolid, which is located in the Gole- gio de Santa Cruz, contains sculptures in wood and examples of the works of Rubens, Mascagni, Carducci, and Cardenas. The principal treasure of the cathedral is a magnificent custodia, or tabernacle, in silver.

Burgos {Hotel de Paris; Fonda del Xor-te; Universal) , with 32,000 inhab., may be seen in a short time. Notice the Bronze Statue of Charles III.; the celebrated Casa del Cordon; the Casa de Miranda, covered with sculptures; the Espolon, beautifully decorated, with 3 fine alleys bordered with trees, filled with statues, gardens, and fountains; the Cathedral, one of the marvels of the 13th century. Its portal and 2 clock-towers are of Grothic architecture. The principal fagades towards the W. is a marvel of stone lacework. The interior is magnificent, and ornamented with pictures, statues, tombs, sculptures, bas-reliefs, etc. Observe the Tomb of the Constable of Castille. In Ch. of S. Este- ban is a very fine Ceria. Notice the Triumphal Arch raised by Philip II. to Fernando Gonzales; also the house of the Cid, or the monument erected in 1784 on the ruins of that house. In the City Hall are the remains of the Great Cap-

494 FRANCE. Biarritz.— Bayonne.

tain and his wife, enclosed in a sculptured wooden coffin. The Arch of 8. Maria is very handsome. Many fine excursions in the vicinity of Burgos.

The towns of Vittoria, Pamplona, Bilbao, and 8an Sebastian (the pretty watering-place fre- quented in late years by English and Ameri- cans) all deserve attention; but the tourist will hardly find time to stop at any of them. The frontier of France is reached at Irun. There is little of importance to see in Irun: memorials of the Carlist civil war in all this neighborhood. Hendaye is the first French station. A little beyond it is 8. Jean de Luz. The old town of Fontarabia may be reached from Irun.

Next comes Biarritz (Grand Hotel; Victoria; d'Angleterre; des Princes; Chateau des Falai- ses; Pavilion Hetiri-Quatre; good Casino here; omnibus to Bayonne every half hour), one of the most popular seaside resorts on the S. coast of France. It was a favorite resort of the Empress Eugenie.

Bayonne, 23 f M. from Irun {Grand Hotel; de Paris; 8t. Etienne) , with 27,000 inhab., is at the confluence of the Adour and the Nive. Fine stained glass windows in the Cathedral, 15th century. The Place Grammont contains the Theatre, the Mairie, and the Custom House. Good view of the sea from the citadel. The bayonet was invented here, whence its name.

PORTUGAL. Lisbon. 495

PORTUGAL.

WE have thought it probable that the vaca- tion tourists would not be likely to push their journey as far as Lisbon, but we give a short paragraph concerning the journey to Por- tugal. Madrid to Badajos, 371* M. From Bada- jos to Lisbon it is 174 M.; time, 10 hrs. ; 2 trains a day. Lisbon time is 25 min. slower than that of Madrid. The reis, the Portuguese monetary unit, is about i centime, or 2+ mills: each franc is therefore worth 200 reis. The conto de reis, or a million of reis, is 500 francs. The Spanish peseta is 184 reis. On the way from Badajos to Lisbon you pass through Santarem, where there are many curious remains of the Moorish architecture of the Middle Ages.

Lisbon ( Avenida Palace; Grand Hotel Cen- tral, situated on the Bay; Continental; Ingla- terra; Durand) , with 360,000 inhab., is on the r. bank of the river Tagus, built in an amphi- theatre on numerous hills. The general view of Lisbon on approaching it by river or by rail is magnificent. The finest streets are those of the Duro do Praca Augusta, the Chiado, and Alecrim. The Commercial Square, Praca do Commercio. has the largest and most remark- able public buildings in the city. It is also called the Esplanade of the Hills. In the mid- dle is the colossal equestrian bronze statue of

49G PORTUGAL. Coimbra.

Jose I. On 3 sides of the square are sumptuous buildings, the Exchange, the Custom House, the Post Office, the Ministries, etc. On the middle of the N. side, magnificent Triumphal Arch. The Cathedral, Chs. of ;Sf. Antonio, of ;Sf, Roque, of the Carmelites, and many convents have rich collections of art treasures. The Royal Palace, or Pago das Necessidades, faces a small square of the same name. See Botanical Gardens, re- ported the finest in the world. Observe beauti- ful aqueduct which crosses the Alcantara Valley. The Library of the Royal Academy of Sciences, National Museum of Pine Arts, and the San Carlos and Dona Maria Segunda Theatres should be seen. There are but few remains of old Lis- bon, which was destroyed by the great earth- quake. The inclined plane rlys. are convenient; fine views on many of them. The Belem pos- sesses a great many fine gardens. The old Belem Monastery is worth a visit. Ramalhao, the Al- mada Mafra. a vast convent ch. and the Palace of antra, where is an old castle of the Moors, are the principal suburban points for excursions. From Lisbon there is weekly steam communi- cation with South America, with the East, and with England. A journey may be made to Oporto, taking Coimbra on the way. Fares to Oporto, 6,610 reis, 5,140 r., 3,680 r.; time, 11^ hrs.; distance, 158i M.

Coimbra {Avenida; Mondegro) is on the r. bank of the Mondego and has a .mst delicious climate. It is very rich in poetic tradition and has numerous manufacturers of faience. The Romans made it one of their most important military posts. To-day the remains of the old walls are still to be seen. University, with 900

PORTUGAL. Oporto. 497

studens, here. The old Cathedral is Byzantine, and quite rich in character. The Chapel of the Twelve Apostles is remarkable. Visit Quinta das Lagrimas Park with its Fonte dos Amour, where lived Inez de Castro, sung by Camoens.

Oporto {Hotel Fra7icfort; Grande Hotel do Porto; Hdtel de Paris; Universal) , with 175,000 inhab., is the second city of Portugal. It is built on two hills, and the valleys which extend between these are filled with charming villas and country-houses. The effect of the Quintas, or Terraces, is quite delightful. The Cathedral, or La Se, is not especially striking. The town is divided into 3 quarters, the oldest of which, San Martinlio, has but little of importance. The Royal Hospital, the Ch. Bos Glerigos (with its high tower), the elegant theatre, the great bar- racks, the Episcopal Palace, the Ch. of Our Lady of Lapa, where the heart of Emperor Dom Pedro IV. is preserved, and the interior of the Ch. of S. Francisco; also the libraries, 65,000 vols., the Exchange, the Crystal Palace (Sunday concerts, adm. 100 reis), and the Museum, merit brief attention. Oporto is a thriving commercial town. From Lisbon to Evora it is 72 M; fares 2,440 r., 1,940 r., 1,390 r.

Evora {Hotel Eborense) is a highly fortified city of 20,000 inhab., in the midst of beautiful fields filled with orange, olive, and fig groves. Many Roman antiquities here. From Lisbon a rly. runs to Faro, 1691 M.

Faro {Madaleina; Central), on the S. coast of Portugal, is a small town of 10,000 inhab., with a good cathedral; fine military hospital, large and well-built streets, and an excellent port. Just opposite it, in the Atlantic Ocean, is a small group of islands.

498 FRANCE. Pau.— Cauterets.

From Bayonne it is 65f M. to

Pau (Hotel Gaisson; du Palais; de France; de la Poste), with 35,000 inhab., is one of the most important towns in the lower Pyrenees, and is a favorite winter resort because of its delicious climate. Life is rather expensive at Pau, but there are a great number of strangers there yearly; an abundance of beautifully fur- nished apartments are to be had. The town is div'ded into 2 parts by the little brooklet called the Gave, over which there are 5 bridges. The Castle of Henri IV. (open daily, 11-4), near Pau, is well worth visiting. Magnificent Flem- ish tapestries made by order of Francis I., in the great Hall of the States. The Ch. of S. Martin, modern; the Palace of Justice; the Museum (open Thurs. and Sun., from 12 to 4, free, and every day for a small fee); the Place Royale, with a statue of Henri IV., may all readily be seen in a few hours. From Pau 24 M. by rly. to Laruns, thence omnibus to Eaux Bonnes (Hotel des Princes; de France; Continental) and Eaux-Chaudes. The former town receives between 6,000 and 10,000 invalids and tourists annually; vast bathing establishments here, also casino, concert halls, theatre, reading rooms, etc. The thermal establishment at Eaux- Chaudes (Hotel Baudot; de France) is one of the best arranged in the Pyrenees. The waters are especially successful in catarrh, rheuma- tism, and skin diseases.

Cauterets (Hotel Continental ; Regina; d'An- gleterre ; de la Paix) may be reached via Pau and Tarbes. There are 24 springs here and 9 bathing establishments; about 20.000 tourists visit Cauterets annually. Beautiful excursions

FRANCE. Bordeaux. 499

in the neighborhood. Going N., after leaving Bayonne, the first place of importance is

Bordeaux {Hotel de Ffance; Gohineau; des Princes et de la Paix) , with 256,000 inhab., a beautiful town on the 1. bank of the Garonne. The city takes the form of a crescent, which it bears on its coat of arms. The Garonne River here is very wide and deep, and navigable for nearly all classes of steamships. See the Bor- deaux bridge, built in 1819, from which admir- able view of the river, and its banks lined v/ith palaces, warehouses, and shops. The Place de la Comedie, on which stands a great theatre, is the principal rendezvous for strangers. All the principal hotels are in this neighborhood; but the largest of all the squares in Bordeaux is the Place des Quinconces. Here are the Ros- tral columns, surmounted by statues of Com- merce and Navigation. There are also marble statues here of Montaigne and of Montesquieu; an equestrian statue of Napoleon III., which stood in the Tourny alley, was taken down in 1870. The oldest monument in Bordeaux is an amphitheatre called the Palais Gallien. This is supposed to have been built by the Romans, in the 3d century. The Cathedral of S. Andre was consecrated in 1090; rebuilt at different epochs; and not long since restored. Near the Cathedral is the Bell Totoer of Pey-Berland, so called after the Bishop who built it, in 1440. The Ch. of 8. Michel, founded 1160, belongs to the ogival order. It also has an isolated bell ' tower. The ancient Ch. of S. Croix has a rich fa- cade recently restored. The Palace of Justice has numerous statues of noted Frenchmen. In the vestibule of the court stands a statue of Montes-

500 FRANCE. Aecachon. — Toulouse.

quieu. Many of the other public buildings are adorned with sculptures and paintings. The great Theatre has a fine vestibule ornamented with Ionic columns. It was in this theatre that the National Assembly held its sessions in 1871, and that the nation resolved to make peace with the Prussians. The Museum, founded 1803, has about 600 pictures of moderate merit; catalogue, 2 fr. ; open daily ex. Mon. and Fri., 10-4, small fee. See Library, 200,000 vols., the Museum of Antiquities and the Museum of Natural His- tory, also the Bonie Museum. In the chapel of the Lycee, on the Cours des Torres, is the tomb of Montesquieu. Bordeau is a very important commercial port: steam navigation with South America, Russia, Holland, England and Ireland, New York, and New Orleans. The public gar- den is a pretty promenade. The watering places of Bagneres de Bigorre and Bagneres de Lou- chon may both be conveniently reached from Bordeaux.

From Bordeaux it is 34f M. to

Arcachon (Grand H otel de Pins; Regina; Riche- lieu; Victoria). This is a charming seaside resort on the Bay of Biscay; and in the pine forest which stretches along the coast are a great number of winter villas. The Casino is a charming palace with Moresque cupolas and minarets. About 100,000 persons visit Arcachon annually. From Bordeaux it is 159^ M. to

Toulouse (Hotel Tivollier; Capoul et Souville; ■ de V Europe) ; with 150,000 inhab. This is the old capital of Languedoc, on the r. bank of the Garonne. There is but little of interest to the tourist here except the Cathedral of 8t. Etienne and the Museum (founded 1792) of antiquities,

FRANCE. Angouleme. — Vichy. 501

pictures, and plaster casts. From Bordeaux to Paris it is 358^ M.; time, about 9 hrs. by ex- press. You pass through Angouleme, Poitiers, Tours, and Orleans.

Angouleme {Hotel du Palais; de France; Nou- vel Hotel), on the Oharente, is an old town built on a rocky hill, and has a fine Gothic Cathedral, Theatre, a Cabinet of Natural History, and a good Library.

Poitiers (Hotel du Palais; de V Europe; de France) is near the river Olain. Its finest square is the Place d'Armes. Cathedral in Gothic style, with very lofty halls. Interesting ch. of S. Hilaire, also the Byzantine Notre Dame; many Roman antiquities here; Palace of Jus- tice, with room much like Westminster Hall in London. The English held this town 300 yrs. 4 M. from Poitiers is the battle-field where the Black Prince defeated the French under John, in 1356.

Orleans and Tours, see pages 197-198.

Two of the most celebrated of French sum- mer-resorts are Vichy and Aix-les-Bains, both of which are easily reached from Lyons.

Vichy (Hotel des Ambassadeurs ; de Cher- bourg; du Pare; des Princes; International) is on the banks of the Allier, in a pretty valley enclosed in an amphitheatre of hills. It is the most popular watering-place in France. Wonderful cures of gout and rheumatism are reported from Vichy. Bathing season begins May 1 and ends Oct. 7. The old town, with its ruined walls and ancient towers, is striking. Most of the hotels are around or near the old Park, at one end of which is the bathing estab- lishment, and at tne other the Casino.

502 FRANCE. Aix-les-Bains.

Aix-les-Bains {Hotel de V Europe; Splendide; Beausite ; Bernascon et Regina; du Xord et Grande Bretugne; du Pavilion; des Ambassa- deurs) is a very popular watering-place in Savoy, 8 M. from Chambery; 9 sulphur springs here effect important cures. See Roman re- mains; Casino, Baths; English Ch. Beautiful excursions to source of the Marlizo; to the Ab- &et/ of Haute Combe, where are the tombs of the House of Savoy; to the Nivolet, The Revard, Pont de VAhhne; to Bourget; to the Cascade; to Gresy; to le Chdtelard; and to Annecy {Mont Blanc;; Yerdun; Beaurivage), a town of 15,- 000 inhab. with a museum and extensive linen factories.

DENMARK. Copenhagen. 503

A TOUR IN THE NORTH.

DENMARK.

From Hamburg, in Germany (see page 239), you may, if time permits, make a tour of great interest in the North. We will for the present content ourselves with briefly laying down some skeleton routes for a short journey through portions of Denmark, Norway, Sweden, and Rus- sia. You may begin your trip by going to the chief city in Denmark. From Hamburg to Ger- man naval depot of Kiel it is 3 hrs. by rail; from Kiel to Korsor by steamer 5 hrs.; and from Korsor it is 2^ hrs. to Copenhagen. Or you may go all the way by rail from Hamburg to Copenhagen, by Schleswig, 220 M., in 12^ hrs.

Practical Information. — For the money in Denmark, Norv/ay, and Sweden, see table fol- lowing the preface. Steamboat schedules are frequently altered; remember this in making plans. — The best season for travelling in these countries is from June to mid September. — For a journey to the North Cape, select June or July. — The fjords of the Western Coast of Nor- way should be seen if possible. See Baedeker, and an excellent Guide du Yoyageur, published in Stockholm, for detailed trips.

Copenhagen {Phoenix; King of Denmark: d' Angleterre: Dagmar; Nilson; Borella) , 515,000 inh., stands upon the E. coast of Zealand, and is enclosed in a line of fortifications, now used

504 DENMARK. Copenhagen.

as a promenade. The panorama of batteries, docks, stores, and arsenals, as seen from the sea, is quite imposing. The E. part of the har- bor is protected by the Castle of Frederikshavn. Part of the city is built on the small Island of Amager, and is called Christianshavn. The channel between the two islands forms the port. Copenhagen has a great number of palaces and public buildings, and 2 to 3 days may be well be spent in inspecting the art collections. The royal residences are quite numerous. Amalien- horg, the chief house of the royal family, con- sists of four small palaces. That next to the Colonnade is the king's; the second is the For- eign Office; the third contains state apartments; the fourth pertains to the crown prince. Bronze Statue of Frederick V. in the square. The Royal Chapel faces the ruins of the Christian- borg Palace, burned down in 1884. The hand- some 3-towered Gfothic Rosenborg Castle is in the centre of the King's garden. There see Chronological collection of the Danish Kings — rooms dedicated to each king, and filled with relics of his life and deeds. The Audience Cham- ber of Christian IV.; the golden cups; the bed- room in which Christian IV. died, in 1648; the Marble Hall; the beautiful room called the Rose; and the Turret Chamber are the other curiosities. Observatory near this palace. Fred- eriksborg Palace (now a military school) is 1 M. out, in a beautiful park. Zoological Gar- dens near by. In the Vor-Frue-Kirke (Ch. of Our Lady) are famous sculptures by Thorwald- sen; and in an alcove his coffin was placed at the funeral, while the royal family stood bareheaded round it. See Thorwaldsen's Bap-

DENMARK. Copenhagen. 505

tismal Font; also two bas-reliefs — The Baptism of Christ and the Last Supper. The Museum 11-3 contains a fine collection of modern Danish paintings and sculptures (not Thorwaldsen's), and also a number of older artists, being es- pecially rich in examples of the Rembrandt school. The Ny-GarWberg Glyptothek (10-5 50 5; Sun. and Wed. free) contains very valu- able collections of ancient and modern sculp- ture.

The greatest curiosity in Copenhagen is the Thorioaldsen Museum built by subscription to contain casts of all his works and many originals (daily 11-3; on Mon., Tues., Thurs., Sat. adm. 50 o.; catalogues at hotels and museum). Here also is the tomb of the great sculptor. In the Prind sens-Palais is the National Museum, con- taining the Danish Collection (prehistoric and historic) of northern antiquities, the Ethnogra- phic Collection; the Collection of Antiquities, and the Numismatic Collection. Open daily, except Monday, 12 or 1 to 3. Visitors should see the Arsenal, close to the Christiansborg Palace (open Wed., 1-3). Royal Library (550,000 vols.) close by. Beautiful new equestrian statue in bronze opposite the palace.

The Exchange, the Museum of Natural His- tory, the University. Library, the Ch. of the Trinity, with its famous Round Tower (built by Christian IV.), Count Moltke's collection of pic- tures (Wed., 12-2), and the pretty theatres are enough to keep visitors busily occupied for a week. — Near Copenhagen is Charlottenlund. a country house, inhabited in summer by some members of the royal family. Pretty drives hereabouts. Trolley to Deer Park, royal pre-

506 DENMARK. Elsinore.

serve, filled with vast herds of stags, red deer, and fallow deer, and to Hursholm, where once stood a superb palace built by Christian VI. Not far away is the Island of Hveen, where the as- tronomer Tycho Brahe resided.

Sentimental travellers may wish to visit Elsi- nore, or Helsingor (Oresund; Jernhane), 30 M. from Copenhagen, easily reached by rail in fifty minutes. The Castle and the Cathedral are the chief sights. Marienlyst, N. of the town, is a sea-bathing establishment. Here on a terrace among some trees is shown a mound, called the grave of Hamlet. Hamlet's identification with this spot is founded on very slight proof. Near Elsinor is Gurre, a famous residence of many Danish kings. Roeskilde was the most important town in Denmark, and remained a royal residence from the 10th to the 15th century. The Cathedral is the finest building of its kind in Denmark. On the so-called "King's Column in this cathedral are cut in the stone the records of the heights of many royal personages, including Peter the Great and Ed- ward VII. In its N. aisle, Saxo Grammaticus, the chronicler, is buried.

From Elsinore it is not far to Predensborg (see Park, open to the public), where the Danish Royal Family used to have its reunions. Car- riage drive thence (1 hour, 4 k.) to castle of Frederiksborg, built by Christian IV. in 1620. Here is interesting historical museum (daily, 9.30-5, 50 o.. Sun. and hisidays, 25 o). Five min. to Hillerod {Hotel Leidersdorf) , whence railway in 1 hr. back to Copenhagen.

From Copenhagen, those persons who do not wish to visit Norway can go by steamer four

DENMARK. Malmo. 507

times daily in 1| hrs (16 M.) to Malmo (Kramers Hotel; Savoy), on the Swedish coast, and thence by rly. in sixteen hrs. (one through express daily; fares, 52 k. 5 o. 35 k. 65 6.) to the Swedish capital, Stockholm. Malmo (75,000 inhab.) was during the Hanseatic period the chief commercial town on the Sound. Bothwell, Mary Stuart's third husband, was imprisoned in the ca&tle here, 1573-78. Charles XV. died here. On the way to Stockholm you pass through Lund (Grand Hotel; Jernvdgs), where is the finest Cathedral in Scandinavia, founded in the 11th century. See old University build- ings here; and near the Cathedral a Statue of Tegner, -who composed many of his poems at Lund. His study is shown to visitors. Lin- koping (Stora Hotellet) also has a noble ch., built 1150-1499, Notice Norrkopitig, near Stock- holm.

508 NORWAY. Gothenburg. — Christiania.

NORWAY.

One may go from Copenhagen to Christiania by sea (semi-weekly steamers touching at Go- thenburg). The fares are low, but the boats are small and not always clean, and the sea is very rough; time 36 hrs. The best way is to go by rail via Helsingor ('ferry 40 min.) ; time, 19 hours.

Gothenburg (Haglund's; Eggers; Gota KCil- lare; Strand) is a busy and commercial town of 145,000 inh., on the Gotaelf. Excellent harbor, rarely closed by ice. The first impulse given to Gothenburg was during the continen- tal blockade, when it formed the depot of Eng- lish trade with Northern Europe The Ex- change, the Town Hall, the Christinakyrka, the Statue of Gustavus Adolphns, the Museum (open daily), the Slottsskog Park, with fine view, and the pretty garden of the Horticultural Society with hothouse and exotic plants near the Wall- graf, comprise the chief features of the town.

Christiania (Grand; Victoria; Boulevard; Skandinavia) , the capital of Norway, has 230,- ()()() inbab. Steamships from London, Holland. Hamburg, etc., land their passengers on the two quays near the Custom House (porterage from the steamer, 30-40 5.; cabs to the hotel, 40, 60, 80 o.) Christiania is charmingly situated at the R end of a fjord. It was founded by (and named for) Christian IV in 1624. The city has taken on new life and greater importance

NORWAY. Christiania. 509

j since the establishment of Norway as an inde- ! pendent kingdom. The University, Art Mu- \ seum. Observatory, and Royal Palace will ! occupy the attention for a day. E. of the market-place is the Ch. of Our Saviour, con- \ secrated in 1697, restored in 1849. Near this

edifice is the famous Steam Kitchen for the

poor classes, where economical dinners are cooked for 2,000 people daily. The Theatres, the Freemasons' Lodge, the Fortress of Aker- shus (many centuries old), are all within an easy walk of each other. The Akershus was be- sieged by Duke Eric of Sweden in 1310, and in 1716 by the famous Charles XII., who was sig- nally defeated a little later by the Norwegian naval hero Tordenskjold. Good views from the ramparts. See the Eidsvolds Plads, the pretty square planted with trees, E. of which is the Parliament Edifice. This has a handsome fagade, flanked with granite lions (fee to enter). The summer session ends in June. The Nation- al Gallery (Sun., Tues., Wed., Thurs., Fri., 12-3, free; at other times, 4-1 k. ; contains many casts and over 400 pictures. The Trinity Gh., the Gamle Akers Kirke, — the oldest ch. in Christiania, founded in the 11th century, — the monument to Wergeland, the most famous of Norwegian poets, and the view from St. John's Hill should not be forgotten. In the University, founded in 1811, there are numerous collections of interest, especially a Viking's ship, over a thousand years old. It has 1,000 students, and a library of 250,000 vols. The Royal Palace is a large plain edifice, with a handsome portico, on a hill in the Slots Park. The Festal Hall, the Throne Room, and Audience Chamber are

510 NORWAY. Christiania.

beautifully adorned. In front is an equestriar Statue of Charles XIV. The Historical Museum contains a very interesting collection of coins a Viking ship, etc. The Norsk Folke Museum in the Bygdo, a peninsular to the west of the city (daily, 50 o., Sunday, 25 o.) and the Art Industrial Museum (Tues., Wed., Fri. free, week days 50 o.) are the only other importamt sights See Oscarshall, in the Bygdo (tickets and in- formation free at the hotels), a castle built for King Oscar in 1847, with works of Swedish and Norwegian artists. Noble view from the roof. Take trolley (50 o.) to Holmenkollen- good restaurant and fine view. Also visit the Ekeberg.

There is direct steam communication between Christiania and Hull, 3 days; London, 4 days- Havre, 4 days; Hamburg, 36 hrs.; Lubeek, 48 hrs.; and twice a month to New York.

Brief Excursions to Norway.

General Notes.— On all the fjords, and along the coast of Norway, there are excellent steam- boat lines, and travel in this way is compara- tively cheap. The food is usually good. Beer is the national drink. The rigid temperance laws of Norway make it impossible to obtain spirits on the steamboats or at most of the principal railway restaurants. On the lakes there ' is usually a service 3 times a day. All Norway is covered with a network of excellent routes • and there are few more pleasant ways of travelling than m the post-chaise among the mountains and beside the fjords, if the traveller be prudent enough to look out for his relays of horses It

NORWAY. Throndhjem. 511

is only on the most frequented routes that one can get carriages and horses to make a long journey. The driver generally takes care of him- self and the horses for a fixed sum. Carriages can carry 3 or 4 persons, with baggage. The relay service is very well arranged, and there will 'be no occasion for complaint if you al- ways send a telegram ahead. The charges for the horses and carriages are by the mile, and are moderate. On the lakes the rowers work for a fixed tariff. The amount of baggage is also determined by regulation.

Throndhjem {Britannia ; Grand; d'Angle- terre; Scandinavie) , the ancient Nidaros, and the third city in Norway, has 38,000 inhab. Here Norwegian kings were crowned in the Middle ages. Formerly the capital of the kingdom; and its cathedral (open daily, free, 12-1.30, 6--7.30), the finest in the North, was once a great resort for pilgrims. It is built of bluish chlorite slate, with which the marble columns form an admirable contrast. In the 11th and 12th centuries this ch. was the burial-place of the kings; and here Charles XIV., Oscar I., Charles XV., and Oscar II. were crowned. You may go from Christiania to Throndhjem by rail, but the journey is tedious, and we recommend the carriage route, or the steamboat voyage around the coast.

From Christiania to Bergen is a favorite ex- cursion on the Strandefjord is the noted Fager- nces Hotel, a great resort for tourists. Bergen (Holdfs; Norge; Boulevard: Smehy) is on a h'lly peninsula ana isthmus, with handsome high mts, in the background. The town (80,000 inhab.) was founded by King Olaf in 1070, on

512 NORWAY. Hammeesfest.

the site of an old royal residence. Many great battles have been fought in its neighborhood. See Bergenhus, Nygaards Park, and Fishmarket (on Wed. and Sat., 8-10 a.m.). The Museums have very good collections. The best view of the town is from the Floifjeld, N. E. of the harbor. The overland route from Bergen to Molde is interesting for leisurely tourists.

Another good excursion is from Christiania to Kongsherg, the Falls of Rjukan, the Hardan- gerfjord. and to Bergen. Still another is from Christiania to Vadso, along the coast. From Vadso. those who have time may push on to Hammersfest (Grand Hotel), the most northern city in the world. It is built along the shores Christiania to Vadso, along the coast. From Vadso, those who have time may push on to the neighborhood there ^'s an extensive view over the glaciers of Sejland and Soro. Hence travellers can usually see the midnight sun in midsummer. Those who wish to visit the North Cape should remember that the sole attraction of the journey consists in the bleakness and solemnity of the scenery. A steamer usually leaves Hamburg on Monday morning, arriving at Vadso Wednesday afternoon and at Ham- merfest on Saturday evening.

SWEDEN. Stockholm. 513

SWEDEN.

You may go by rail direct from Christiania to Stockholm, in 5 hrs. to Charlottenberg on the Swedish frontier, thence in about 14 hrs. to Stockholm; ithrough express trains without change in 17 hrs. (fares, 43 k. 05 o., 33 k. 50 o.; on slow trains a little less; sleeping oars 5 k. and 3 k. extra).

Stockholm (Grand Hotel; Continental; Ryd- herg; Kronprinsen; Kung Karl; in the old town, Ostergotland). Good restaurants in principal hotels. Good music at Blanch's Cafe, Bern's Salonger, and the Stromparterre every after- noon and evening. Population 332,000. Sea com- munication with Stettin, Lubeck, Copenhagen, Amsterdam, London, St. Petersburg, Bordeaux, and Finland, by comfortable steamships and boats. Taximeter cabs, 1-2 persons, 50 o. per kilometre, each additional ^ kilometre 10 o. ; trunk from rly. station 20 o ; fares higher after 11 p. M. Trip to suburbs at moderate rates. There is an excellent electric tram-car system (10 5.) The capital of Sweden is situated on the banks of Lake Malar, where it empties into the Baitic Sea, and occupies two peninsulas and many islands, joined by handsome bridges. Old travellers say that Stockholm's situation is the most beautiful in Europe, after that of Con- stantinople. The city is divided into six parts: the Staden, or city, formed by the islands of Stadsholmen, Riddarholmen, and Helgeands- holmen, the narrowest and least agreeable

514 SWEDEN. Stockholm.

part of Stockholm, but the most animated, and the commercial centre; Norrmalm, the N. section, with the island of Blasieholmen; Ladii- gdrdslanclet, a quarter built in the reign of Queen Christina; Kungsliolmen (King's Island); Sodermalm, the S. faubourg; and ^SaUsjo-oarne, coinposed of four islands. The oldest chroniclers give to the town the name which it bears to-day, — stock signifying straight, and holme, island. See local guide at bookstores for the romantic legends connected with the origin of Stockholm. Fine views from the Mosebacke; from KastelJiolmen ; f/om the Ob- servatory; from the Toiver of Jacob's Gh.; from By Strom's Villa; and from the Tivoli.

Principal Sights.— In the city (Staden) : the Royal Palace, — burned in 1697, rebuilt in 1753, and restored in 1901, — one of the finest in Europe, and on eminence close to junction of lake and sea. Vast panorama from the terrace. View of the city and the innumerable bits of water, the majestic mountiains, forests, and green plains. See the N. fagade and the Gus- tavus Adolphus Place. Here is the Lejons- hacken, a staircase ornamented with huge bronze lions. The front portico is decorated with the Swedish arms, — 3 bronze crowns, supported by a figure of Renown. The S., W., and E. facades have beautiful works cif art. The chapel, 128 ft. long by 50 it. wide, has fine marble col- umns and richly decorated walls. The pulpit, sculptured and gilded, is supported by the 4 symbols, of the Evangelists, — the angel, eagle, lion, and ox. The altar-piece represents Jesus at Gethsemane. The Hall of State, 143 ft. long, 51 ft. wide, is by Tessin. See silver throne

SWEDEN. Stockholm. 515

given to Queen Christina by Magnus Gabriel; and statues of Gustavus II. and Charles XIV. by Bystrom. Here the king opens and closes the Diei in presence of the two cnambers of the kingdom. The interior of the palace i- visible all the year; small fee. See ceremonial halls where great festivals are held: Audience Chamber; fine ceiling by Fouquet; magnificent candelabra, 29 ft. high; two porcelains; Red Room, w^here Gustavus III. slept (many marble statues here) ; great gallery, 162 ft. long; won- derful collection of sculptures; mythological frescos: two smaller rooms, devoted to pictures of battles: a second gallery and two rooms de- voted to allegories of Peace; Festival Hall, — sometimes called the White Sea, — with richly painted ceilings, Victoria Hall, the Hall of the Columns, and the present king's and queen's apartments:. Library very rich; Museum of Armour and Costumes, a good collection.

On the great square, S. of the palace, is an obelisk, erected in 1799, in memory of the fidelity of the citizens of Stockholm during the war of 1788-1790 against the Russians. Near the port, statue of Gustavus III. Behind the obelisk is the Church of St. Nicholas, .founded in 1260 or 1264, reconstructed 1726-43, restored 1892; a spire 308 ft. high; interior divided into 5 naves by rows of columns; altar-piece in ivory, silver, and ebony, representing the birth of the Saviour; organ one of the largest in Sweden; immense stores of beautiful silver ves- sels and candelabra; remarkable funeral monu- ments. Opposite the palace, beyond the Slotts- backen, is the House of the Governor of Stock- Jiolm, built by Tessin, the most celebrated archi-

516 SWEDEN. Stockholm.

tect of Sweden, who formerly owned it. In the Stortorget, or great square, the famous Bath of Blood, as it is called in Swedish history, — thf execution of 96 distinguished citizens, opponents of Christian XL, King of Denmark, who was seeking to extend his rule over Sweden, — took place. Here is the Bourse, built in 1766; fine halls in the first story. Near by, the German ch. (1642), with tower 222 ft. high, and the only chime of bells in Sweden; injured toy fire in 1878, but restored. Here also is the Knights' House (1648), one of the finest palaces in Stock- holm; noble staircase; walls decorated with the arms of all the nobility of Sweden. Statue of Gustavus Vasa before this house, erected on the 250th anniversary of the entry of that king into Stockholm. The courts of justice and other public buildings are not far away. At Skepps- hro, the port, are the telegraph office and the Custom House. The Scandinavian Credit Bank, is the finest modern building in the city. The Gothic Gh. of the Knights' Island {Riddarholms- KyrTca) is on Riddarholmen Island, to the W. of the Equestrian Palace. It belonged to a famous Franciscan convent founded by King Magnus Ladulas, and was reconstructed in 1847. It is 192 ft. long, 60 ft. wide, and the tower is 290 ft. high. It is noticeable as a mausoleum of celebrated men (local guides give descrip- tion). The chief tomb is that of the Gustavus dynasty. N. of the choir is the Charles Chapel (built 1686-1743), with marble sarcophagus of Charles XII. Here also repose Charle=i X., Charles XV., Frederick, and many others. Ch. > open Tues. and Thurs. (also Sat. in summer), j 12-2 p. M.; fee, 25 o. On the Riddarholm are

SWEDEN. Stockholm. 517

also the Royal Court of Justice, the GhamTier of Deputies, the Archives, and the Statue of Birger Jarl. Go by the great northern bridge — 380 ft. long, in granite, built in 1797— to Hel- geandsholmen, with its pretty gardens, huge bazaar, and royal stables.

In the N. section (Xorrmalm) is the Gustavus AdoJplius Place and statue, pedestal ornamented with reliefs of celebrated Swedish generals. On the W., Palace of the Grown Prince. Opposite is Royal Opera House, erected on site of theatre where G-ustavus III. was killed by Ankarstrom. E., near this square, is the Jacol)'s Gh. (1590). The S. portal is very rich with sculptures dating from 1644. The poet Kellgren is buried here. To the E. is the Charles XII. Place, with statue of Charles XI. To the N., the promenades called the King's Garden, statue of Charles XIII. Pretty theatre and fountain near by. In the Berzelius Park, statue of Berzelius, the father of modern chemical science. E. of the Charles XIL Place is the Xatio7ial Museum (open daily except Mon., 11-3: Sun., 1-3). On the gi'ound floor is the Historical Museum, founded in the 17th century, and one of the largest of its kind. The Hall of the Middle Ages is especially inter- esting. On the first floor are collections of fur- niture and house decorations, ceramics, and sculpture, the last of unusual merit. On the upper floor is the picture gallery, in which the Italian, German, Flemish, Spanish, French, Swedish, Norwegian, and Danish schools of painting are well represented. From the Na- tional Museum, an iron bridge leads to the Skeppshohn, an island on which are the Karl-

518 SWEDEN. Stockholm.

Johans Kyrka, the Naval Academy, and the Naval Arsenal.

The Academy of Fine Arts (1671) is in the Rodbo-Torg, or Red Shop Square. The Clara- Kyrka (1285; burned 1751; rebuilt 1753; re- stored 1893) ds very interesting. At Kungshol- men are many hospitals and some of the chief manufactories. Also the Mint, and a ch. with a fine altar-piece. Not far away is the principal military school. There are many other inter- esting things in the city quarter (see local guides). The Gh. of St. John should be seen. In the cemetery of the latter, Von Dobeln, one of the heroes of the last war against the Rus- sians, is buried. The two principal streets of Stockholm are the Regents' and Queen Street, — in Swedish, Regeriiigsgatan and Drottning- gatcni. The Academy of Science, the Natural History Museum, the Technological Institute, the Mining School, and the O'bservatory are all in this quarter.

In the Ostermalm quarter are the Artillery Square and a ch. founded in 1658, remarkable for its acoustics. Here also is the Royal Library of 200,000 vols., founded under Charles IX (open free every weekday, 10-3). In the Sodermalm, or S. faubourg, is the Karl Johans Place, with equestrian statue to memory of that king. Here also, in the Hormgatan, 43, is the house which Swedenborg inhabited. The Katharina-Kyrlca is on the spot where the victims of the Battle of Blood were buried. Fine view from top of Sod- ermalm (elevator). The environs of Stockholm are noted for their beauty, especially during the wonderfully clear nights of June and July. The Carlberg and Drottningholm should be visited,

SWEDEN. Upsala. 519

and especially the Djiirgard, a beautiful park on an island 2 M. long. At the W. end of this island is the Northern Museum, a large collec- tion of Scandinavian curiosities. Here nearly every evening in summer popular dances in na- tional costume are given accompanied hy na- tional music. Xo one should fail to see them.

Upsala {Stads-HoteUet; Svea; good restaur- ants), the most famous university town in Swe- den (25,000 inhab.), and the residence of the archbishop and other dignitaries. It lies on both banks of the Fyrisa, which is crossed by 5 bridges. It was formerly called Ostra-Aros, and when the Swedish kings resided at Gamla Upsala, it was their port. It is the historical and intellectual centre of Sweden, and its mythi- cal associations are of the greatest interest. Visit the Gothic Cathedral (founded 1260), sit- uated on a picturesque height. The chief curi- osities are the Burial Chapel of Gustavus A^asa (at the back of the choir), and the tomb of Linuceus, the great botanist.

N. of this cathedral is St. Eric's Spring, said to have burst forth on the spot where the saint was martyred. The Ch. of the Trinity has many handsO'me monuments. The University was founded in 1477. Many of its edifices are very striking in architecture. The library building is especially fine. The Library contains 330,000 vols., and 14,000 MSS. Here is the famous tran- lation of the four Gospels by Bishop Ulphilas, dating from the second half of the 4th century. The House of Liniuni-s. is still shown in Upsala. In the cemetery see monument to Geijer, the poet. There are 1,700 students at the University. Numerous charming excursions in the neighbor-

520 SWEDEN. Gefle.

hood. A pretty excursion is from Upsala to Gefle by rail in 3^ hrs. (6 k. 85 o., 4 k. 60 o.). On the way you may see the Castle, which was fortified by Gustavus Vasa, and where Eric XIV. was imprisoned during his insanity.

We will not attempt to give other excursions in Sweden, but will recommend the tourist next to proceed from Stockholm to St. Petersburg.

RUSSIA. Cronstadt. 521

RUSSIA.

Steamers sail 3 times a week in summer from Stockholm to St. Petersburg in 3-4 days, stop- ing at Abo, the old capital of Finland, taken from the Swedes in 1809 by the Russians; Hel- singfors, one of the strongest of naturally for- tified harbors; and Wyl)07'g. taken from the Swedes by Peter the Great in 1710. The beauty of the hundreds of islands through which the steamer threads its way renders the jouniey a constant pleasure. The Aliland Islands are about 300 in number. Shortly after the steamer enters the Gulf of Finland, the dome of St. Isaac's Church in St. Petersburg is distinctly visible. On the way up, the steamer passes Cronstadt, the Russian Empire's chief naval station. It is defended by great batteries hewn out of the solid rock, and has extensive docks. The fortifications were hegun in 1703 by Peter the Great and have been greatly strengthened since. An excursion can be made in one day from St. Petersburg to Cronstadt, Oranienhaum, Petershof. StreJ7ia, and the Monastery of St. Sergius. Omnien'bauni is a palace, built in 1724, confiscated to the crown from Mentchikoff's estate. It commands a mag- nificent view. The Peterhof Palace, begun in 1720 by Leblond, under the direction of Peter the Great, contains innumerable articles of vertu. tapestries, marbles, porcelains, malachites, portraits, especially a collection of pictures of feminine beauties, 368 in number, collected from

522 RUSSIA. St. Peteesburgh.

50 Russian provinces. In front of the palace is a fountain called the Samson. There are two small palaces near here, of which Peter the Great was very fond, and in that of Mont Plaisir he died. The Hermitage, Alexandra, where the Emperor lives while at Peterhof, and Strelna, the palace of the Grand Duke Constantine, are in this neighhorhood.

St. Petersburg (Hotel cVAngJeterre; De Rus- sie : Demoiith's : De France; d'Europe) is the capital of the Russian Empire, and as the head- quarters of the official world and the center of Russian society must always possess a certain interest for the traveller (1,500,000 inhah.). The common supposition that it is not wise to visit Russia in midsummer is founded upon a mistake. The Russian summer climate is ex- tremely soft and beautiful, and the heat is never •so intense as in some parts of North America, Of course, the social world is not so gay as in winter, but the tourist who expects to spend but 2 or 3 days in St. Petersburg will hardly care about this. The city was founded by Peter the Great, about 1703, and, like Madrid, it might be called a capital with malice aforethought; for the energetic monarch set it down among the marshes through which the river Neva wanders towards the sea. On the islands in the chan- nels of the divided Neva the greater part of the city is built. The Admiralty Quarter, so called, containing the public buildings, is on the main- land, on the S. bank of the Neva. St. Peters- burg is in many respects a magnificent city, although the contrasts between squalor and great splendor are sometimes too sharp to per- mit of an agreeable impression. When the town

RUSSIA. St. Peteesburgh. 523

was building, under Peter tlie Great, 40,000 or 50,000 peasants were employed for years in fill- ing up the marshes. It was the Empress Cath- erine who built the splendid granite quay along the Neva's' 1. bank. The river has overflowed many times, and the inundations in the 18th century and in the early part of the 19th were very disastrous. The ordinary tourist will find that the difficulties concerning passports, police supervision, etc., have been greatly exaggerated. A passport, vised by the Russian consul in the American city whence you have sailed, is, how- ever, exacted on entering Russia, and has to be delivered up to the hotel proprietor for registration, and he hands it to you on leaving the hotel. The city is divided into 13 quarters, the Admiralty being the principal one. From the Admiralty three great streets branch off. They are called the Yosnessensky ; the Gorok- hovaia, ending at the Champs de Mars; and the famous XevsJcy Prospect, where are the most elegant of the shops and many of the chs, and public buildings.

The Cathedral of our Lady of Kazan, in the Nevsky Prospect, begun under Alexander I., and consecrated in 1811, is the metropolitan church of St. Petersburg. It is a copy of St. Peter's at Rome, and takes its name from an image of the Virgin brought from Kazan to Mos- cow in 1579. See the beautiful Corinthian colonnade, with columns of Finland granite. Interior superb; shrine of chased silver, the gift of Cossacks who served in wars of 1813-14; images before wliich lamps are always kept burning; fiags, arms, and standards, taken in battle; bronze statues of Kutusoff and Barclay

524 RUSSIA. St. Petersburgh.

de Tolly in front of the ch. No organ or instru- ment is used in the service, but great pains are taken to secure good voices. Remark the deep bass intonation. The Fortress and Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul contains in its vaults the tombs of all the sovereigns of Russia since the foundation of St. Petersburg, except Peter II. (buried at Moscow). The fortress part of this edifice is used as a prison, and also contains the imperial Mi7it. The gilded spire is visible from a great distance. Hundreds of flags are suspended along the walls.

The Cathedral of St. Isaac, the largest in St. Petersburg, is on the site of a ch. built in 1710 by Peter the Great. Its foundations rest upon thousands of piles. The interior is chiefly strik- ing from its splendid proportions. Notice the lavish use of polished granite, white marble, malachite, porphyry, and lapis lazuli. Pine view of city from dome. The Winter Palace (admis- sion by tickets procured from chief of palace police; fee), built in 1754, in Catherine's reign, stands on the r. bank of the Neva.. This is the imperial city residence, and this building was the scene of the Nihilist conspiracies, which finally resulted in the death of Alexander II. in 1881. The exterior is not impressive, but the interior is richly ornamented with paint- ings, bronzes, marbles, and precious stones. Grand festival here on New Year's Day by the Emperor to all his subjects. See the Ambassa- dor's Staircase on the Neva; also the magnifi- cent flight of white marble steps, leading to the state apartments. The Throne Room is the finest in Europe. The White Room, St. George's Hall, the Field Marshal's Gallery, the Alexander

RUSSIA. St. Petersbuegh. 525

Hall, the Hall of Battles (in which are paint- ings by Horace Vernet), the Golden Chamber^ the Empress's Winter Garden, and the Roman- off Gallery are the principal apartments. Near the entrance of the latter gallery is the green curtain, behind which is a tablet on which are the rules draw'n up by the Empress Catherine, to be enforced at her receptions at the Hermit- age. In the jewel room, see the Imperial crown and scptre (containing a diamond weighing 194 carats). See also room in which Emperor Nicholas died. The Hermitage (open daily ex- cept Fri. and holidays, 11-4), close to Winter Palace, was founded by Catherine in 1765, and rebuilt in 1840-50. The famous museum con- tains 1,700 paintings of all schools, among them being some by Murillo, Velasquez, Rubens, Van Dyke, Rembrandt, and Ruysdael. There are also vast collections of engraved stones, and designs by masters.

The Taurida Palace, the Anitchkoff Palace, the Michael and the Marl)le Palaces are not impressive buildings. The Russian Museum of Alexander III. (open daily except Mon., 10-4) contains good collection of modern art. The Admiralty is a vast edifice with fagade ^ M. long. Near it are the great dockyards, the head- quarters of the army, and the War Office. The Wooden Cottage of Peter the Great, containing many relics of the famous monarch, is near the citadel.

The Imperial Lihrary, containing 400,000 vols., is near the Kazan Ch. Other noteworthy libraries are those of the Academy of Science, the Her- mitage, and the Alexander Nevsky Monastery. This monastery is one of the most celebrated in

526 RUSSIA. Moscow.

Russia. It was founded by the great Peter in honor of Alexander the Great, who conquered the Swedes and the Livonians. The museum of the Academy of Science occupies a portion of the superb building near the Admiralty. The Asiatic Museum is rich in Eastern antiquities The Romanoff Museum, that attached to the Mining School, that of Natural History, and the Egyptian Museum should be seen. The theatres, kept up at the government expense, are all of large size. The Marien (opera and ballet) Alexander (Russian drama and comedy) and Michael (French) are the best. The monu- ments are nearly all good. Those most worthy of attention are the Equestrian Statue of Peter the Great, with a prancing horse balanced on Its hind legs, by Falconet; and the column of Alexander, a single shaft of red granite 80 ft high, weighing 400 tons, stands near the Winter Palace. The Summer Gardens, 1 M. long and i M. wide, beautifully ornamented, contain the palace in which Peter the Great occasionally lived. A day excursion should be made to Tsars- koye Selo. where the emperor resides in the spring and autumn.

It is 1011 M. from St. Petersburg to Moscow The rly. carriages are much like those of Amer- ica in model. The stations are all comfortable refreshment saloons excellent, and fares reason- able. First-class express to Moscow, 24 roubles- second, 17 roubles. The principal town on the way is Tver, at the confluence of the Yvertsa and the Volga. Cathedral, Trinity Church Here steamer can be taken to Nijni-Novgorod and thence to Astrakan. '

Moscow (National, Slavianski Bazaar, Chev-

RUSSIA. Moscow. 527

Tier, (VAngleterre) , or Holy Moscow, as the Rus- sians call it, the ancient capital of Russia, for- merly the residence of the Emperors, is situated on the Moskowa, in a pleasant country. Up to the great fire in 1812, it was the most irregu- larly built town in Europe, and to-day it re- mains original and picturesque in a striking degree. A good view may be had from Sparroio Hill (by carriage, about 7 r.) In the centre of the city is the Kremlin, a triangle 2 M. in circuit, filled with palaces, churches, arsenaAs, and museums. Here the Tartar architecture predominates. An excellent preparation for vis- iting the Kremlin is the perusal of Theophile Gautier's lively and sparkling book on a "Winter in Russia." The Redeemer's Gate and the Gate of St. Nicholas are objects of great veneration among Russians. Visitors must uncover their heads on passing through the Redeemer's Gate. The present Kremlin Palace is modern, the old Kremlin having been destroyed in 1812. Most of the ancient palaces were of wood. To Nich- las L the erection of the present one is due. The Hall of St. George, the Hall of St. Alex- ander Nevsky, and Sts. Andreiu and Catherine, and the Banqueting Hall, as well as the Terem, which contains a collection of the portraits of the czars, and from the terrace of which Napo- leon I. looked down upon Moscow when he came there as conqueror, are among the Kremlin's chief marvels. In the little Ch. of the Redeemer are some beautiful decorations. On the Cathed- ral Place is the Cathedral of the Assumption, founded in 1325, and rebuilt in 1472. Many sacred treasures here. In this ch. the Emperors of Russia are crowned. The Cathedral of the

528 RUSSIA. NiJNi-NovGOROD.

Archangel Michael contains many tombs of sovereigns. The Ch. of the Annunciation is where the czars are baptized; is rich with relics. The jewels in all Russian chs. are worth studying. House of the Synod, Treasury (open free week days ex. Sat., permit at the chamber- lain's office), and Arsenal will furnish plenty of occupation for a day. The Tower of Ivan Veliki, or John the Great, built in 1600, and 320 ft. high contains 34 'bells, the largest of which weighs 64 tons. When ^11 these bells are rung together at Easter the effect is wonderful. At the foot of this tower is the vast Tsar Ko- lokol, or monarch of Bells. It once hung in a tower (burned in 1737); weighs 444,000 lbs.; and is 20 ft. high and 60 ft. round. The value of the metal in the bell is nearly $2,000,000. Outside the Kremlin is the Chinese town, so called, founded by Helena. Here are the Cathed- ral of St. Basil, built in 1554 by Ivan IV., the Romanoff Palace, the Iherian Gate and Chapel, the University (900 students), the great Biding School, the Theatres, and the largest Bazaar in Russia, except that of Nijni-Novgorod. The pigeon being looked upon as sacred by the Rus- sians, thousands of these birds are to be seen in the streets of Moscow. S. of Moscow is a beautiful villa owned by the Imperial family. The Tretyakoff Gallery of modern Russian art (open daily ex. Mon., 10-4, free) is worth a visit.

It is 271J M. from Moscow to Nijni-Novgorod. Tourists pressed for time can take night train there, spend the day at Nijni, and return the next night.

Nijni-Novgorod {de Russie; Egoroff's) a city

RUSSIA. Odessa. 529

of 75,000 inhab., is celebrated for its great fair, held annually in July and Aug., and attended by 200,000 people. Here the inhabitants of the bar- baric East come into close contact with the Western merchants and visitors. The town is at the confluence of the Oka and the Volga. The Kreinlm is on a bank overhanging the Volga. The transactions at the fair amount annually to $80,000,000.

From Moscow to Odessa (40 J hrs.; fare 32 r. 1st class, 20 r. 2d class) the route passes through Kieff.

Odessa {Be Londres; Be St. Petersboiirg) was founded in Catherine II. 's reign. It is an im- portant commercial port, with 250,000 inhab.; but there is little of interest to the traveller except the Cathedral, a small museum, a bronze statue of Richelieu, and the University. Steam- ers (poor) leave Odessa twice a week for the Crimea and Sebastopol, and the field of the Crimean war may easily be visited. There is also steam communication with Constantinople.

TABLE OF CLIMATIC HEALTH REPORTS, MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS, AND HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENTS.

Times and railway fares are calculated from Paris.

Aachen or Aix-la-Chapelle (10 hrs. from Paris, fare, 48 fr.). — Sulphurous alkaline waters, 107° to 120° F. For skin diseases, rheumatism, chronic diseases of the nervous centres, neural- gias, paralysis, and syphilitic maladies.

Aix-les-Bains (14i hrs.; 71 fr. 60c.).— Sul- phurous hot springs, 112° to 114° F.. Have a world-wide reputation in cases of rheumatism and gout; also chronic catarrh of the neck of the womb, amenorrhea, metritis, syphilis, bronchitis, laryngeal and nasal catarrh, pha- ryngitis. April to Nov., and all the year.

Amelie-les-Bains (24^ hrs.; 120i fr.)— Sul- phurous sodic waters, 71° to 72° F., and winter station. Herpetic diathesis, and catarrhal affec- tions. All the year.

Arcachon (10 hrs.; 78 fr. 70 c.).— Winter station, and sea baths. For invalids requiring a sedative air; for delicate, lymphatic, and anemic persons; nervous complaints; chest and lung affections; scrofula; gout. \Vinter season, from Nov. till June; summer, from May till Oct.

Baden (27 hrs.; 152^ fr.).— Sulphurous waters, 82° to 95° F. For rheumatism, gout anemia, and scrofula (especially of a chronic character.) May to Oct., and all the year.

MINERAL WATERS 581

Baden-Baden (16 hrs.; 68 fr.) — Alkaline- chloride of sodium waters, 110° to 150° F. Uric acid diathesis, gout, and kindred complaints; ailments dependent on malaria, and certain skin diseases; chronic rheumatism; scrofula, syphilis, chronic catarrh, certain kidney affec- tions, anemia. May to Oct., and all the year.

Bagneres-de-Bigorre (22 hrs.; 105 fr.).— Saline, sulphurous, ferruginous, and arsenical waters, 72° to 120° F. For tuberculosis, affec- tions of the respiratory organs, intestines, and urinary system, anemia, and female disorders. June to Sept., baths; Nov. to May, winter sta- tion.

Bagnoles (19 hrs.; 67 fr. 65 c.). — Saline, sul- phurous, lithic, silicate, and arsenical waters, 66 °F. For diseases of the digestive organs and skin, rheumatism, scrofula, chlorosis, congestion cf the abdominal viscera, phlebitis, &c.

Bareges (21^ hrs.; 113 fr.).— Alkaline-saline- sulphurous waters, 45° to 105° F. For scrofula, diseases of the bones, herpes, and syphilis. June 15 to Sept. 15.

Biarritz (19* hrs.; 96 fr. 80 c.).— Sea-bathing and winter station. For chlorosis, anemia, chest and lung complaints, laryngitis, pharyngitis. Aug. to May.

Bourbon-rArchambault (6i hrs.; 40 fr. 75 c). — Bromo-iodurated saline waters, 125° F.; and bicarbonate ferruginous magnesian waters, 120° to 160° F., highly gaseous. For scrofula, rheu- matism, paralysis, nervous affections.

Bourboule (La) (13^ hrs.; 60 fr.).— Effer- vescent saline arsenical waters (28 millgr. arse- nate of soda per litre), 140° F. For anemia, lymphatism, general debility, affections of the

532 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS,

skin and respiratory organs, rheumatism, and intermittent fevers. May 25 to Sept. 30.

Brides-les-Bains (13 hrs.; 75 fr. 35c.). — Calcic and laxative waters, resembling those of Carls- bad. For liver troubles resulting from intemp- erance in food and drink, gallstones, diabetes, some forms of anemia, and the debility follow- ing prolonged residence in the tropics.

Cannes (20* hrs.; 130 fr.).— Winter station of first importance; climate tonic and stimu- lating near the sea; sedative towards Le Cannet. Sea baths in spring; season Oct. to May. For nervous debility, anemia, phthisis, laryngitis, pharyngitis, rheumatism, paralysis, gout, and diabetes.

Carlsbad (32 hrs.; 137 fr.) — Alkaline aperient waters, 125° to 170° F. For constipation,hepatic disorders, abdominal plethora, obesity, gout, gravel, etc.

Carlsbrunn. — Highly effervescing, ferruginous manganese waters, 45° F.; climate station. For debility of the male and female sexual organs, sterility, impotence, affections of the brain due to overwork. June to Sept.

Castellamare di Stabia (50* hrs.; 248 fr.).— Sea baths; cold chloride of sodium, bitter and sulphurous chalybeate waters. For obstructions of the liver and spleen, affections of the mesen- teric glands, biliary and vesical calculi, jaun- dice, dropsy, hemorrhoids, chronic ophthalmia, herpes, catarrh of the digestive organs, hpyo- chondriasis, urinary calculi, vesical catarrh, scrofula, lymphatism, congestion of the uterus, leucorrhea, &c. Sea and mineral bathing. May to Oct.; winter season, Oct. to April.

Cauterets (12 J hrs.; Ill fr. 90 c.).— Sulphate

MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS. 533.

of soda springs, 55° to 145° F. For catarrh of the respiratory organs, skin diseases, uterine affections, scrofula.

Contrexeville (10 hrs.; ollfr.). — Effervescent alkaline, slightly ferruginous waters, 55° F. Especially for gravel, biliary and vesical cal- culi, and catarrh, diabetes, gout, and gouty rheumatism, disorders of the urinary system, affections of the uterus, hepatic complaints. May 20 to Sept.

Dax (15 hrs.; 90 fr. 80 c.).— Hyperthermal mixed sulphurous waters, 120° to 145° F. For articular, muscular, or rheumatic affections, gout, neuralgia, and neuroses.

Dieppe (4 hrs.; 20 fr. 65c.). — Much-frequent- ed sea-bathing and summer resort.

Divonne-les-Bains (15i hrs.; 81 fr.).— Cold water springs; water exceptionally pure, 44° F. For chronic rheumatic arthritis, lumbago, pleu- rodynia, gout, sciatica, neuralgia, hypochon- dria, neuroses, gastralgia. bronchial catarrh, dyspepsia, liver and bladder complaints, hemorr- hoids, paralysis, chronic affections of the spinal cord, scrofula, and female disorders.

Eaux-Bonnes (18 hrs.; 105 fr.). — Sulphurous saline anl alkaline waters, 90° F. For angina pectoris, larjmgitis, bronchitis, chronic catarrh, asthma, chronic pleuritis, anemia, lymphatism, and scrofula. June to Sept.

Ems (16i hrs.; 71 fr. 15 c.). — Saline alkaline and saline earthy, 65° to 110° F. Used in af- fections of the lungs and chest, and nervous diseases. May to Oct.

Enghien (20 min.; 1 fr. 35 c.). — Cold sulphu- rous and lime waters. For scrofula, affections of respiratory organs, herpes, and rheumatism.

534 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS,

Etretat (5 hrs. 50 min.; 28 fr.). — A now much frequented resort for sea-bathing in summer.

Evian-les-Bains (13 hrs.; 82 fr. 80c.).— Al- kaline waters, and climatic air station. For affections of the urinary and digestive organs, the liver and biliary apparatus.

Geneva (14 hrs.; 77 fr.). — Milk cure. Bathers from Aix-les-Bains come here to rest after their cure.

Gobersdorf (39 hrs.; 167* fr.).— Noted for its mountain-air cure, in affection of the respiratory organs. Anemia and chlorosis are also treated.

Grasse. — Dry and sedative climate; winter station; Oct. to June. Chest and lung com- plaints, pharyngitis, nervous affections, anemia, chlorosis.

Homburg-les-Bains (18 hrs. 40 man.; 86 fr. 69 c.). — ^Saline, ferruginous, and acidulous waters. For dyspepsia, scrofula, and anemia.

Hyeres (20 hrs.; 117 fr.). — Winter season, Nov. to June; sea-bathing, May to Oct. For diseases o-f the larynx, chest, and lungs, scrofula, diabetes, gout, and rheumatism.

Interlaken (18 hrs.; 78 fr. 65 c). — Climatic station in summer, visited for its beautiful en- virons. Whey cure.

Ischia (50^ hrs.; 288 J fr.) — Alkaline-saline waters, 145° F. For uterine affections, rheuma- tism, diseases of the bones, ulcers, goilt, and paralysis. Spring and autumn.

Ischl (2.3f hrs.; 168 fr. 90 c.).— A climatic summer station; May to Oct. Saline and cold sulphurous waters; whey cure; saline, steam, hot and cold brine, and sulphurous baths; mud, malt, pine-cone, sap, and wave baths; inhalation. Recommended for nervous affection.

MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS. 535

Karlsbad. — See Carlsbad.

Kissingen (21 hrs. 40 min.; 106 fr.).— Cold saline waters, strongly mineralized; tonic and excitant. Especially suited to abdominal and hemorrhoidal congestions.

Kreuznach (131 hrs.; 72 fr.). — Bromo-iodura- ted saline waters. For scrofulous affections, diseases of the ears, respiratory organs, bones, and joints, female and skin diseases, and chronic affections generally. May to Oct.

Lausanne (15* hrs.; 64 fr. 20 c.).— Climatic station in summer and autumn; bracing air and grape cure.

Loeche-les-Bains (30 hrs.; 100 fr.). — Various springs; hot saline earthy waters, 70° to 120° F. For struma, herpes, and skin diseases, scrofula, rheumatism, chronic IJronchitis, inveterate syph- ilis, &c. May 15 to Sept. 30.

Luchon (19i hrs.; 103^ fr.).— Upwards of fifty different springs, ferruginous, sulphurous, and alkaline. For rheumatism, scrofula, bron- chial and skin diseases, and chronic ulcers. June to Sept.

Luxeuil (11^ hrs.; 60 fr.). — Saline ferrugi- nous, and magnesian waters; eleven springs, 70° to 12.5° F. They are first excitant, then se- dative; and good in cases of neuralgia, rheuma- tism, paralysis, gastralgia, &c.

Madeira (steamers from Southampton, Bord- eaux, or Lisbon; journey 5 to 6 days; 500 fr.). — Highly recommended for pulmonary com- plaints; climate delightful; no winter.

Mentone (24^ hrs.; 139 fr.). — Winter station of first importance, and sea baths. For all forms of chest diseases and rheumatism, cachetic complaints, and debility. Winter season, No- vember to June; sea-bathing, May to Oct.

536 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS,

Monaco (24^ hrs.; 138 fr.). — Monte Carlo is the favorite winter resort of pleasure-seekers. One of the most sheltered stations on the Riviera. Sea haths; May to Oct.

Mont-Dore (11 hrs.; 64i fr,). — Bicarbonate, arsenical, and effervescent ferruginous waters, 107° to 115° F. For all forms of diseases of the respiratory tract; ophthalmia, rheumatic and nervous affections, disorders of uterus and skin. June 1 to Oct. 1.

Naples (48 hrs.; 223 fr. 85c.).— The great va- riety of mineral waters and their therapeutic properties have rendered this delightful city and its environs the most frequented bathing station in Italy. Sea baths.

Nauheim (20 hrs.; 90 Jr.). — Saline, carbonat- ed waters. Visited especially by patients with cardiac disease for the relief of which baths in effervescent water, followed by passive exer- cises, are employed.

Nice (22 hrs. 134 fr. 20 c.).— Winter station of first importance. For chronic diseases of the chest, lungs, and respiratory organs; affections of the larynx, liver complaints, disorders of the spinal cord, diabetes, gout, rheumatism, paral- ysis, debility. Winter season, Nov. to June; sea-bathing season. May to Oct.; principal sea- son, Jan. to March.

Ostend (14 hrs.; 38 fr. 40c.).— Sea baths. Sandy beach and bracing climate. Season, June 1 to Oct. 1.

Palermo (66| hrs.; 299i fr.).— Winter sta- tion; sea baths. Season Nov. to April; bathing season. May to Oct.

Pau (17* hrs.; 101 fr.). — Winter resort of first importance. For chest complaints, con-

MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS. 537

sumption, asthma, broncliitis, rheumatism, neuralgia, and nervous disorders. Nov. 15 to May 31.

Pierrefonds (2 J hrs.; 12 fr.).— One cold sul- phate of lime spring; one ferruginous and arse- nical. Pulmonary catarrh.

Plombieres (H hrs.; 45 fr.). — The springs range from 30° to 175° F. For rheumatism, pa- ralysis, herpes, nervous debilty, hysteria.

Pougues (5 hrs.; 29 fr. 70 c). — Mixed bicar- bonate ferruginous gaseous waters. Affections of the digestive organs.

Preste (La). (23f hrs.; 145 fr.).— Very effica- cious waters in diseases of the urinary organs, gravel. 90° to 105° P.

Piillna. — No treatment at Piillna itself; the waters are exported, and considered excellent as preservatives and remedies against diseases of the digestive organs, constipation, congestions, liver and bladder complaints, nervous disorders, obesity, diseases of the eye, headache, and gas- tritis.

Pyrmont (18 hrs.; 84 fr. 30 c). — Chalybeate springs of importance and much renown; effer- vescent saline waters, brine baths, inhalations, For female complaints, especially anemia, chlo- rosis, scrofula, stomachic and intestinal ca- tarrhs, obesity, affection of spleen and liver. Season, May 15 to Oct. 1.

Recoaro (34f hrs.; 139^ fr.).— Alkaline, aci- dulated ferruginous waters, 45° F. For chronic and nervous debility, female diseases, obesity, anemia, chlorosis, gravel and vesical calculus, congestion of the liver, biliary calculi, hem- orrhoidal complaints, intestinal catarrhs. May to Sept.

538 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS,

Rome (49* hrs.; 201 fr. 90 c. ) .—Winter sta- tion of first importance. For debility and scro- fula in children, chronic catarrh of the bronchi, emphysema. The climate is sedative to the nerves and respiratory organs; but patients should first consult their doctor. Oct. to May.

Rorschach. — Climatic station in summer; baths in the lake; Turkish baths; very pure and equable atmosphere.

Royat (9i hrs.; 51f fr.), — Four springs: mixed alkaline, gaseous ferruginous and slightly arsenical and lithic waters, 45° to 95° F. For lymphatic affections, anemia, chlorosis, catar- rhal affections, arthritic gout, and skin diseases dependent on a gouty diathesis.

St. Galmier.— Alkaline table waters, used in France.

St. Moritz (34 hrs.; 130 fr. 60 c.).— Climatic mountain-air station. Two ferruginous springs, very cold and very effervescing. For phthisis.

St. Raphael (19* hrs.; 130 fr. 20 c.).— Winter station and sea baths; summer. May 1 to Nov. 1; winter, Nov. 1 to June 1. For atonic debility, rachitis, scrofula, lymphatic affections, chest and lung complaints, diabetes, rheumatism,- gout, emphysema, anema, and chlorosis.

San Remo. — Winter station of first import- ance; latent scrofula, chronic bronchial, stoma- chic, and intestinal catarrh, emphysema, pharyn- gitis, laryngitis, pleuritic exudations, incipient phthisis, rheumatism, Bright's disease, diabetes, and general debility. Nov. to May.

Saxon (18 hrs.; 73 fr. 55 c.). — Bromo-iodu- rated saline waters, 60° F. For syphilis, scro- fula, and gout.

Scheveningen (15^ hrs.; 67 fr. 70 c.).— Very

MINERAL WATERS, SEA BATHS. 539

well frequented summer resort; sea-bathing; beach of fine sands.

Schinznach (17 hrs.; 72 fr.) .—Sulphurous waters, rich in sulphureted hydrogen and car- bonic acid, also in chloride of sodium and salts of lime, 9.5° F. For chronic skin diseases, eczema, . acne, psoriasis, &c., scrofula, chronic catarrh, bronchitis, emphysema, asthma, rheu- matism, gout, syphilis, mercurialism; May to Oct.

Schlangenbad (19 hrs. 10 min.; 81f fr.).— Nine springs, 75° to 90° F. For menstrual difficulties. in delicate women; general debility in children, women, and aged persons; gout, partial paralysis. May 1 to Oct. 1.

Schwalbach (20 hrs.; 83 fr. 5c.).— Chaly- beate waters. For all female complaints, ane- mia, chlorosis, nervous affections, debility of muscles arid mucous membranes, especially catarrhal affections of the genital organs. May to Oct.

Spa (8^ hrs.; 44f fr.). — Highly effervescent ferruginous and acidulous waters. For anemia, chlorosis, female complaints, hysteria, gastral- gia, sterility, difficult menstruation, liver com- plaints, urinary disorders, cachexia, mucous catarrh of the uterus, &c. May to Oct.

Spezzia (28 hrs.; 130 fr. 40 c. j .—Winter air- cure and summer sea-bathing resort.

Teplitz-Schonau (32 hrs.; 145* fr.) .—Alkali- saline waters, 95° to 125° F. For rheumatism, gout, neuralgia, paralysis, incipient spinal complaints, scrofulous tumors and ulcers, frac- tures, ankylosis, &c. May to Nov.

Trouville (6 hr^..; 28 fr. tSc.;. — Fashionable

540 CLIMATIC HEALTH RESORTS.

and much-irequented summer station; sea baths, sandy beach.

Uriage (14 2/3 hrs.; 79 fr.). — Saline sulphur- ous waters, 81° P. For scrofula, chronic affec- tions, diseases of the eyelids, granular pharyn- gitis, etc. Milk and whey cure. May 15 to Oct. 15.

Valencia. — Spanish winter resort, sea baths, sandy beach.

Vals (17^ nrs.; 87 fr.). — Cold alkaline springs, light, medium, and strong; principally used as table waters. For gravel, liver complaints, and disorders of the spleen.

Venice (36 hrs.; 154 fr.)— Sea^ baths and winter station; sedative climate, somewhat like that of Pau.

Vevey (16^ hrs.; 86^ fr.) — Air-cure station much frequented on account of the mildness of its temperature.

Vichy (8^ hrs.; 45 fr.). — Bicarbonate of soda alkaline springs, 35° to 105° F. For dyspepsia, hepatic disorders, uric acid diathesis, catarrh of the urinary organs, diabetes.

Voslau (27f hrs.; 156 fr. 95c.).— A favorite climatic resort of the Viennese. May 15 to Sept. 30; grape cure, Sept. to Oct.

Wiesbaden (15 hrs.; 86 fr. 45 c). — The waters are excitant, resolvent reconstituent, and laxa- tive, 30° to 165° F. For scrofula, rheumatism, paralysis, and impaired digestion.

Zurich (18 hrs.; 85 fr. 10 c). — Earthy alka- line waters.

DIPLOMATIC AND CONSULAR AGENTS OF TBE UNITED STATES IN THE PRINCIPAL EUROPEAN COUNTRIES

Vienna

Budapest Prague . Trieste . Carlsbad

Brussels

Antwerp Crhent . Liege .

Copenhage:

Paris

Austria=Hungary

. Ambassador, Richard C. Kereks Consul- General, Charles Denby Consul- General, Paul Nash.

Consul, Joseph I. Brittain. R. J. Totten. " Will L. Lowrie.

Belgium

. Minister, Larz Anderson. Consul-General, Ethelbert Watts. H. W. Diederich. Consul, Henry A. Johnson. " A. Heingartner.

Denmark

. Minister, Maurice F. Egan. Consul, E. D. Winslow. . Vice-Consul, Victor Juhler.

France

. Ambassador, ^Myrox T. Herrick. Sec. of Embassy, A. Bailly-Blanchard. Consul-General, Frank II. Mason.

542 DIPLOMATIC & CONSULAR AGENTS

Algiers.

Coiisul,

Dean B. Mason.

Calais .

"

James B. Milner.

Gran .

Agent,

Albert H. Elford.

Bordeaux

Consul,

Alfred K. Moe.

Boulogne

Age7ht,

William Whitman.

Havre .

C07lSUl,

James E. Dunning

Brest .

Agent,

A. Pitel.

Cherbourg

August Lanice.

Cognac

, Consul,

Ggorge H. Jackson.

Limoges

"

Eugene L. Belisle.

Lyon .

"

Carl B. Hurst.

Marseille

. Consnl-Gen.

Alphonse Gaulin.

Toulon

Agent,

Francis M. Mansfield.

Nantes .

Consul,

Louis Goldschmidt.

Nice .

"

William D. Hunter.

Rheims

Consul,

William Bardel.

Rouen .

Charles A. Holder.

Dieppe .

. Agent,

W. Palmer-Samborne

Germany

Berlin . . Ambassador, ' ' . Sec. of Embassy, ' ' . Consul- General,

Aix-la-Chapelle . Consul,

Bremen . . "

Brunswick . . "

Cologne

Dresden

Frankfort,

Hamburg

Leipsic

Mannheim

Munich .

Nuremberg

Stuttgart

Consul-General, Consul-General,

Consul,

Consul-General, Consult,

J. G. A. Leishman. Irwin B. Laughlin. Alex. M. Thackara. Pendleton King. William T. Fee. Talbot J. Albert. Hiram J. Dunlap. T. St. John Gaffney. Frank D. Hill. Robert P. SIdnner. Albert R, Morawetz. Samuel H. Shank. Thomas W. Peters. George N. Ifft. Edward Higgins.

OF THE UNITED STATES.

543

Great Britain

London

Ambassador,

'• . Co7isul- General,

Liverpool

. Consul,

Belfast .

Birminghain

"

Kidderminste

r . Agent,

Bradford

. Consul,

Bristol

'•

CardifE .

"

Cork .

"

Dublin

"

Dundee

Gibraltar

- . Consul,

Glasgow

"

Hull .

Leeds .

"

Malta .

"

Manchester

"

Xewcastle

"

Xottinghara .

"

Plymouth

"

Sheffield

'>

Southampton

"

Walter H. Page. John L. Griffiths. Horace L. Washington. Hunter Sharp. Albert Halstead James Morton. Augustus E. Ingram. Homer M. Byington. Lorin A. Lathrop. Geo. E, Chamberlm. Edward L. Adams. E. H, Dennison. , Richard L. Sprague. John X. McCunn. Walter C. Haram. Benjamin F. Chase. James 0. Laing. Church Howe. George B. Kill master, Samuel M. Taylor. Joseph G. Stephens. Charles N. Daniels. Albert W. Swalm.

Greece

Athens . . . Minister, George H. Moses.

" . Co7isul- General, William H. Gale. Patras . . . Consul, Arthur B. Cooke.

Holland

The Hague . . Jlinisfer, Lloyd Bryce. Amsterdam . . Consul, Frank W. Mahin. Rotterdam Cousnl- General, Soren Jjistoe. Flushing . . Agent, Pieter F . Auer.

544 DIPLOMATIC & CONSULAR AGENTS

Italy

Rome . . Ambassador, Thomas J. O'Brien. " . Sec. of Embassy, Charles S. Wilson.

Florence

" Leo J, Keena.

Genoa .

Consul-General, James A. Smith.

Leghorn

Consul, Frank Deedmeyer.

Milan .

" Charles M. Caughy.

Naples .

" Wm. W. ILandley.

Palermo

" Hernando de Soto.

Venice .

' ' James Verner Long.

Norway

Christiania

Minister, Laurits S. Swensox

Consitl- General, Henry Bordewich.

Bergen .

Consul, B. M. Rasmiisen.

Portugal

Lisbon .

. 3Iinister, Edwin V. Morgan.

• « 

Consul-General, Louis H. Avrae.

Oi)orto .

.l^e?;/", William H.^Stuve.

Roumania

Bucharest

Minister, John B. Jackson.

Consul-General, Roland B. Harvey.

Russia

St. Petersburg Ambassador, Curtis Guild.

" Sec. of Embassy, George P. Wheeler.

" . . Consul, Jacob E. Conner.

Consul-General, John H. Snodgrass. Consul,

Moscow Batum . Odessa . Riga

Vladivostok Warsaw

John H. Grout. W^illiam P. Doty. John F. Jewell.' Thomas E. Heenan.

OF THE UNITED STATES.

545

Madrid

Barcelona Alicante Seville . Malaga Valencia Cadiz . Jerez de la Teneriffe

Agent. Frontera Cojisid,

Stockholm Gothenburg

Berne .

Basle . Geneva . St. Gall Zurich .

Spain

. Minister, Henry Clay Ide. Consul, Charles L. Hoover. Consul-General, Henry H. Morgan. Agent, Henry W. Carey. Consul, Charles S Winans. " Edward J. Xorton. " Robert Frazer, Jr. James Sanderson. Percival Gassett. " William W. Kitchen »

Sweden

. . , Minister, Charles H. Graves. Consul-General, Ernest L. Harris. Consul, Stuart J. Fuller.

Switzerland

Minister, Hexry S, Boutell. Consul, George Heimrod. " George Gifforcl. " Francis B. Keene. '• Dominic I. Murhy. Consul-Geyieral, Robert E. Manseld.

Turkey and Dominions

Constantinople Ambassad ' ' Sec. of Eml).

Aleppo

Alexandria

Bagdad

Beirut

Cairo .

Jerusalem

Smyrna

Consul-Gen., Consul,

W. W. ROCKHILL.

Hoffman Philip. Gabriel Bie RavndaL Jesse B. Jackson. " David R. Birch. •' Emil Sauer. Consul-General, W. Stanley Hollis. '* •' Peter Augustus Jay.

Consul, "William Coffin. Consul-General, George Horton.

A SHORT VOCABULARY

One.

Two.

Three.

Four.

Five.

Six.

Seven.

Eight.

Nine.

Ten.

Eleven.

Twelve.

Thirteen.

Fourteen.

Fifteen.

Sixteen.

Seventeen.

Eighteen.

Nineteen.

Twenty.

Twenty-one.

Twenty-two.

Twenty-three, etc.

Thirty.

Thirty-one.

Thirty-two, etc.

Forty.

Fifty.

Sixty.

Seventy.

IN ENGLISH, FRENCH

Un.

Deux.

Trois.

Quatre.

Cinq.

Six.

Sept.

Huit.

Neuf.

Dix.

Onze.

Douze.

Treize.

Quatorze.

Quinze.

Seize.

Dix-sept.

Dix-huit.

Dix-neuf.

Vingt.

Vingt et un.

Vingt-deux,

Vingt-trois, etc.

Trente.

Trenteet un.

Trente-deux, etc.

Quarante.

Cinquante.

Soixante.

Soixante-dix.

OF WORDS AND PHRASES GERMAN AND ITALIAN

Eins.

Zwei.

Drei.

Vier,

Fiinf.

Sechs.

Sieben.

Acht.

Neun.

Zehn.

Elf.

Zwolf.

Dreizehn.

Vierzehn.

Fiinfzehn.

Sechzehn.

Siebzehn.

Achtzebn.

Neunzebn.

Zwanzig.

Einundzwanzig.

Zweiundzwanzig.

Dreiundzwanzig. etc.

Dreissig.

Einiinddreissig.

Zweiiinddreissig, etc.

Vierzig.

Fiinfzig.

Secbzig.

Siebzig.

Uno.

Due.

Tre.

Quattro.

Cinque.

Sei.

Sette.

Otto.

Nove.

Dieci.

Undici.

Dodici.

Tredici.

Quattordici.

Quindici.

Sedici.

Diecisette ; diciasette.

Dieciotto ; diciotto,

Diecinove ; diciannove.

Venti.

Vent' uno.

Venti due.

Venti tre, etc.

Trenta.

Trent' uno.

Trenta due, etc.

Quaranta.

Cinquanta.

Sessanta.

Settanta.

548 WORDS & PHRASES IN ENGLISH,

Eighty. Ninety. A hundred. Two hundred, etc. A thousand. Eleven hundred. Twelve hundred. Two thousand. A million. The first. The second. The third. The fourth. The fifth. The sixth. The seventh. The eighth. The ninth. The tenth. The eleventh.

The last.

The last but one.

Once.

Twice.

The half.

The third.

The fourth.

The fifth.

The sixth, etc.

A river.

A fountain.

A waterfall.

The gate.

An hour.

Half an hour.

Quatre-vingt. Quatre-vingt-dix. Cent.

Deux cents, etc. Mille.

Onze cents. Douze cents. Deux mille, etc. Un million. Le premier. Le second. Le troisieme. Le quatrieme. Le cinquieme. Le sixieme. Le septi^me. Le huitieme. Le neuvifeme. Le dixieme. Le onzieme.

Le dernier. L'avant-dernier. Une fois. Deux fois. La moitie. Demi. Le tiers. Le quart. Le cinquieme. Le sixieme, etc. Une riviere. Une fontaine. Une cascade. La porte. Une heure. Une demi-heure.

FRENCH, GERMAN & ITALIAN.

549

Achtzig. Neunzig. Hundert,

Zweihundert, etc. Tanseiid. Elfhundert. Zwolfliundert. Zwei Tausend, etc. Eine Million. Der Erste. Der Zweite. Der Dritte. Der Vierte. Der Fiinfte. Der Sechste. Der Siebente. Der Acbte. Der Neunte. Der Zebnte. Der Elfte.

Der Letzte.

Der Vorletzte.

Einmal.

Zweimal.

Die Halfte. Ha lb.

Das Drittel.

Das Viertel.

Das Ftinftel.

Das Secbstel, etc.

Ein Fluss.

Ein Brunneu.

Ein Wasserfall.

Das Tbor.

Eine Stunde.

Eine halbe Stunde.

Ottanta.

Novanta.

Cento.

Duecento ; dugento ; etc.

Mille.

Mille cento.

Mille dugento.

Due mila, etc. .

Un milione.

IL primo.

II secondo.

II terzo.

II quarto.

II quinto.

II sesto.

II settimo.

L' ottavo.

II nono.

ILdecimo.

L'undecimo ; decimo

primo. L' ultimo. II penultimo. Una volta. Due volte. La meta. Mezzo. II terzo. II quarto. II quinto. II sesto, etc. Un fiume.

Una fontana ; una f onte. Una cascata. La porto. Un' ora. Una niezz' ora.

550 WORDS & PHRASES IN ENGLISH.

A quarter of an hour.

Sunday.

Monday.

Tuesday.

Wednesday.

Thursday.

Friday.

Saturday.

A holiday.

The walls of the town.

A monument.

The tower.

A church.

The cathedral, minster.

A convent.

A chapel.

A palace.

The town-hall.

The castle.

The theatre.

The custom-house.

The post-office.

The library.

The university.

The exchange.

The bank.

A square.

A bridge.

A shop.

A bookseller's shop.

A coffee-house.

An inn ; a hotel.

A restaurant.

Un quart d'heure.

Dimanche.

Lundi.

Mardi.

Mercredi.

Jeudi.

Vendredi.

Samedi.

Un jour de f§te.

Les murs de la ville.

Un monument.

La tour.

Une eglise.

La cathedrale.

Un convent

Une chai^elle.

Un palais.

L'hotel de ville.

Le chateau.

Le theatre.

La douane.

L-e bureau des postes.

La bibliotheque.

L'universit^.

La bourse.

La banque.

Une place.

Un pont.

Une boutique.

Une librairie.

Un cafe.

Une auberge ; un hotel

Un restaurant.

FRENCH, GERMAN & ITALIAN. 551

Eine viertel Stunde. S'onntag. Montag. Dienstag. Mittwoch. Donnerstag. Freitag.

Samstag; Sonnabend. Ein Feiertag; ein Fes- tag. Die Stadtmauern. Ein Denkmal. Der Tburm. Eine Kirche. Das Miinster ; der Dom. Ein Kloster. Eine Kapelle. Ein Palast. Das Rathhaus. Das Schloss. Das Schauspielhaus. Das Zollhaus. Die Post. Die Bibliothek.

Die Universitat.

Die Borse.

Die Bank.

Ein Platz.

Eine Brticke.

Ein Kaufladen.

Ein Bnchladen.

Ein Kaffebaus.

EinGastbans; einGast-

hof. Ein Speisebaus.

Un quarto d' ora.

Domenica.

Lunedi.

Martedi.

Mercoledi.

Giovedi.

Yenerdi.

Sabbato.

Un giorno di festa.

Le mura della citta.

Un monumento.

La torre.

Una cbiesa.

La cattedrale.

Un convento.

Una cappella.

Un palazzo.

La casa della citta.

II eastello.

II teatro.

La dogana.

L' uffizio delle poste.

La biblioteca ; la li-

breria. L' universita. La borsa. La banca. Una piazza, Un ponte. Una bottega. Una libreria. Un caffe. Un' albergo ; una lo-

canda. Una trattoria.

552 WORDS & PHRASES IN ENGLISH,

Afurnisbed room.

Breakfast.

Luncheon.

Soup.

Roast-beef.

-Beefsteak.

Veal.

Mutton.

Pork.

Fish.

Eggs. h

Cake.

Butter.

Cheese.

Beer.

Port.

Sherry.

Ices.

A. railway.

An express train.

That is true.

I believe so.

It is late.

I am fatigued.

I am thirsty; I am

hungry. It is time to set off. That is not true. I did not understand. Who is it?

What are j^ou doing? What do you want? Where are you? Where is he? What is he doing?

Une chambre garnie. Le dejeiiner. Une collation.

La soupe.

Du boeuf roti, rosbif Beef-steak. Du veau. Du mouton. Du pore. Le poisson. Des oeufs. Le gateau. Le beurre. Le f romage. La biere. Levin d'Oporto. •Le vin de Xeres. Les glaces. Un chemiu de fer. Un train de vitesse. C'est vrai. Je le crois. II est tard. Je suis fatigue. J'ai soif ; j'ai faim.

II est temps de partir. Cela n'est pas vrai. Je n'avais pas comprls. Qui est-ce? Quefaites-vous? Que voulez-vous? Oil etes-vous ? Ouesf-il? Que fait-il?

FRENCH, GERMAN & ITALIAN. 553

Ein moblirtes Zimmer.

Das Friihstiick.

Der Imbiss, das gabel- frtibstuck.

Die Supi)e.

Ocbsenbraten.

Beefsteak, biftek.

Kalbfleiscb.

Hammelfleiscb.

Schweinefleiscb.

Der Fiscb.

Eier.

Der Kucben,

Die Butter.

Der Kiise.

Das Bier.

Der Portwein.

Xereswein.

Das Eis.

Eine Eisenbabn.

Ein Scbnellziig.

Das ist wabr,

Icb glaiibe es.

Es ist split.

Icb bin miide.

Icb bin diirstig; bun- grig.

Es ist Zeit abzureisen.

Das ist uicbt wabr.

Icb verstand nicbt.

Wer ist es?

Was macben Sie?

Was wollen Sie?

Wosind Sie?

Wo ist er?

Was macht er?

Una stanza mobigliata. La colazione. Una colazione.

La zuppa.

Arrosto di bue, rosbif.

La bistecca.

Del vitello.

Del castrate.

Del ma j ale,

II pesce.

Delle uova.

La focaccia.

II burro, butiro.

II formaggio.

La birra.

II vino d' Oporto.

II vino di Xeres.

I sorbetti ; i gelati.

Una strada ferrata.

Convoglio celere.

E vero.

Lo credo.

E tardi.

Sono stracco.

Ho sete ; bo fame.

fi ora di partire. Cio non e vero. Non aveva capito. Cbi e?

Cbe cosa fate? Cbe cosa volete? Dove siete? Dov' §? Che cosa fa?

554 WORDS & PHRASES IN ENGLISH,

Where are you going? What do you say? Did you understand

me? Is dinner ready?

Is it time to go? Where shall we go?

When shall we set out?

Are there any letters

for me? Come here. Make haste. Tell him to come.

Take care. Stop. Not so quick. Speak to him. Do what I tell you.

Go away.

Bring up the carriage.

Call (wake) me at five

o'clock. Yesterday. To-day. To-morrow. Every day. What name do you give

to that dish? Bring me some bread.

Ouallez-vous? Quedites-vous? M'avez-vous compris ?

Le diner est-il pret?

Est-il temps de partir? Ou irons-nous?

Quand parti rons-nous?

Y a-t-il des lettres pour

moi? Venez ici. Depechez-vous. Dites-lui de venir.

Prenez garde. Arretez

Pas si vite.

Parlez-lui.

Faites ce que je vous

dis. Allez-vous-en. Faites avancer la voi-

ture. Reveillez-moi a ciuq

heures. Hier.

Aujourd'hui. Demain. Tous les jours. Quel nom donnez-vous

a ce mets? Apportez-moi du pain.

FRENCH, GERMAN & ITALIAN. 555

Wohin gehen Sie? Was sagen Sie? Haben Sie verstanden?

1st das Mittagessen

fertig? 1st es Zeit abzureisen? Wohin sollen wir ge- hen? Wann sollen wir abrei-

sen? Sind Briefe fiir mich

da? Kommen Sie hier. Beeilen Sie sich. Sagen Sie ihm, er

moge kommen. Geben Sie Acht. Halt. Nicht so schnell. Sprechen Sie mit ihm. Thun Sie, was ich Ihnen

sage. Gehen Sie weg. Lassen Sie den AVagen

vorfahren. Wecken Sie mich um

fiinf Uhr. Gestern. Heute. Morgen. Alle Tage. Welchen Namen geben

Sie diesem GerichteV Bringen Sie mir etwas

Brod.

Dove andate? Che cosa dite? Mi avete capito?

E pronto il pranzo?

fi or a di partire? Dove andremo?

Quando partiremo?

Ci sono lettere per me?

Venite qua. Spieciatevi. Ditegli che venga.

Badate. Fermatevi.

Non COS! presto.

Parlategli.

Fate quel che vi dico.

Andate via.

Fate venir avanti la

carrozza. Svegliatemi alle cinque.

leri.

Oggi.

Dimani.

Ogni giorno.

Come chiamate questa

pietanza ? Portatemi del pane.

556 WORDS & PHRASES IN ENGLISH,

Bring me a glass of

water. How much for wine? What is the name of it?

At what hour shall we arrive at X?

What railway is that?

Is it more expensive? At what hour does the

steamboat start? What is the fare?

Have you a printed

tariff? Is the road easy to

find? How far is it to X?

What is the usual charge by the day?

At what hour does it start?

Which is the best hotel at X?

Are the charges mod- erate?

Where is the station for X?

Is this the train to X?

How soon shall we be there?

Apportez-moi un verre

d'eau. Combien le vin? Comment I'appelez-

vous ? A quelle heure arrive-

rous-nous a X?

Quel est ce chemin de fer?

Est-ce plus Cher?

A quelle heure le ba- teau a vapeur part-il ?

Quel est le pwx du pas- sage?

Avez-vous un tarif im- prime?

Trouve-t-on facilement le chemin?

Combien y a-t-il d'ici a X?

Combien donne-t-on or- dinairement par jour ?

A quelle heure part- il?

Quel est le meilleur ho- tel a X?

Y a-t-on bon march^?

Quest I'embarcadere de

X? Est-ce Ik le train pour

X? Quand arri verons-nous ?

FRENCH, GERMAN & ITALIAN. 557

Bringen Sie mir ein

Glas Wasser. Wie viel fiir denWein? Wie heisst er?

Um wie viel Uhr wer-

den wir in X ankom-

men? Welche Eisenbahn ist

das? Ist es theurer? Um wie viel Uhr fahrt

das DampfschifC ab? Wie viel betragt das

Passagiergeld? Haben Sie einen ge-

druckten Tarif? Ist der Weg leicht zu

finden? , Wie weit ist es von

bier nacb X? Was bezabt man ge-

wohnlich fiir den

Tag? Um wie viel Ubr fahrt

er ab? Welches ist der beste

Gasthof in X? Ist es billig dort?

Wo ist der Bahnhof

nach X? Ist dies der Zug nach X ?

Wie bald werden wir dort sein?

Recatemi un bicchier

d'acqua. Quanto costa il vino? Come si chiama?

A che ora arriveremo noi a X?

Quale e questa strada

f errata ? E pin caro? A che ora parte il ba-

tello a vapore? Quanto costa il tras-

porto de passeggieri? Avete una lista stam-

pata? E la via facile a tro-

varsi ? Quanto distante e X . .

da qui? Quanto si spende al

giorno di solito?

A che ora parte?

Qual ^ il miglior al-

bergo in X? Sono i prezzi equi cola ?

Dov' e I'imbarcatoio di

X? E quello il traino perX?

Quando arriveremo?

558 WORDS & PHRASES IN ENGLISH,

Stop, coachman ! we

wish to get out. When must I be ready?

I wish to see the land- lord of the hotel.

Where is the water- closet ? ,

Bring me some fresh water.

I wish to have break- fast (supper).

Give me something to eat.

At what hour do we dine?

Show me your bill of fare and wine card.

Bring me the newspa- per.

Is he ready?

Which is the way to the post-office?

How much is the post- age?

Send that letter to the post.

Where does the banker live?

I wish to see a physi- cian.

What fee should I give him?

Arretez, cocher ! nous

voulons descendre. A quelle heure faut-il

etre pret? Je desire parler au

maitre de I'hotel. Oil sont les lieux

d'aisance? Apportez-moi de I'eau

fraiche Je desirerais dejeuner

(souper).

Donnez-moi quelque chose a manger.

A quelle heure dinons- nous?

Montrez-moi la carte.

Apportez-moi le jour- nal.

Est-il pret?

Pourriez-vous m'indi- quer la poste?

Combien pour le port?

Faites jeter cette lettre

a la poste. Ou y a-t-il un ban-

quier? Je desire voir un me-

decin. Combien faut-il lui

donner?

FRENCH, GERMAN & ITALIAN.

559

Halt, Kutscher ! Wir wollen aussteigen.

Wann muss ich fertig sein?

Ich wiinsche denHerrn des Hauses zu sehen.

Wo ist der Abtritt?

Fermatevi, vetturino, vogliamo discendere.

A Che ora debbo esser pronto ?

Yorrei parlare al maes- tro di casa.

Dot' e la ritirata?

Bringen sie frisches

Wasser. i

Ich wtinsche das Friih- |

stlick (das Abendes-

sen ) . Geben Sie mir etwas [

zu essen. Um wie viel Uhr spei-

sen wir zu Mittag? Zeigen Sie mir den

Speisezettel, Bringen Sie mir die

Zeitung. I

Ist er bereit? Welches ist der Weg

zur Post?

Wie viel betragt das \

Porto? I

Senden Sie diesen '

Brief zur Post. Wo wohnt ein Ban-

quier? Ich wtinsche einen

Arzt zu sprechen. Wie viel Honorar soil

ich ihm geben? I

Portatemi dell' acqua-

fresca. Vorrei far colazione

(cenare).

Datemi qualche cosa

da mangiare. A che ora si pranza?

Mostratemi la lista e

la nota dei vini. Portatemi la gazzetta.

E egli air ordine? Potreste indicarmi il

cammino che va alia

posta? Quanto costa 11 porto?

Fate portare questa lettera alia posta.

Dove abita un ban- 'chiere?

Desidererei parlare con un medico.

Quanto gli debbo dare?

560 WORDS & PHRASES IN ENGLISH,

Can I have a warm

bath? Bring me some soap.

Order a carriage for

me. Make a good fire.

How much have I to

pay? Bring me my account.

Turn to the right, left, straight forward.

How much is charged

for admission? ^Yhat direction must I

take? Can I have dinner here?

How much? Have you nothing bet- ter? It is fine. It is very hot. Does it rain? It is cold. Send for a cab.

Coachman, drive me to the station.

Where is the baggage- room?

Pourrais-je avoir un

bain chaud? Apportez-moi du savon.

Faites-moi venir une

voiture. Faites un bon feu.

Combien dois-je?

Apportez - moi mon compte.

Prenez a droite, a gau- che, marchez tout droit.

Quel est le prix d'en- tree?

Quelle direction faut-il que je prenne?

Pourrais-je y diner?

Combien? N'avez-vous rien de

meilleur? II fait beau. II fait tres chaud. Pleut-il? II fait froid. Envoyez chercher un

fiacre. Cocher, conduisez-moi

a la gare.

Ou est le bureau de

FRENCH, GERMAN & ITALIAN. 561

Kami ich ein warmes

Bad bekommen? Bringen Sie mir Seife.

Bestellen Sie mir eine

Kutsche. Machen Sie ein gutes

Feuer. Wie viel habe ich zu

bezatilen. Briugen Sie mir die

Recbnung. Gehen Sie rechts, links,

geradeaus.

Wie hoch ist der Ein-

trittspreis? Welehe Richtung muss

icb nebmen? Kann icb bier zu Mit-

tag speisen? Wie viel? Haben Sie nicht etwas

besser? Es ist scbon. Es ist sebr heiss. Regnet es? Es ist kalt. Lassen Sie eine

Droscbke bolen. Kutscber, fabren Sie

micb nacb die Bahn-

bof. Wo ist die Gepackan-

nabme?

Potrei avere un bagno

caldo ? Portatemi un po' di

sapone. Ordinatemi una caroz-

za. Fate un buon fuoco.

Quanto vi debbo?

Portatemi il mio conto.

Si Volga a destra, a sinistra, vada diritto,

Quanto costa il bigliet-

to d'ingresso? Qual direzione devo

prendere? Potro avervi il pranzo?

Quanto?

Non ne avete di mig-

liore? Fa bel tempo. Fa caldissimo. Piove? Fa freddo. Fate cercare un fiacre.

Cocchiere, conducete- mi alia stazione.

Dov'e I'ufficio deglief- feti?

562 WORDS & PHRASES IN ENGLISH,

Please give me two first-class tickets to X.

Here they are.

What do they cost?

At what hour is supper

ready. That's very dear. Where are our rooms?

Are there any letters for Mr. N., poste re- stante?

Here is my passport.

Is breakfast ready?

Give me a drink.

What o'clock is it? What kind of weather

is it? How do you do?

Very well, I thank you.

Have you a room to let?

Deux billets de pre- miere classe pour X, s'il vous plait.

Voila, monsieur.

Combien ces billets?

A quelle heure soupe-

t-on? C'est bien cher. Ou sont nos chambres?

Y a-t-il des lettres poste restante pour Mon- sieur N.?

Voici mon passeport.

Le dejeuner est-il ser- vi?

Donnez-moi a boire.

Quelle heure est-il? Quel temps fait-il?

Comment vous portez-

vous? Fort bien, je vous re-

mercie. Auriez-vous une cham-

bre a me louer?

FRENCH, GERMAN & ITALIAN. 563

Ich bitte um zwei Bil- lete erster Klasse nach X.

Hier sind sie.

Wie Tiel kosten sie?

Um wie viel Uhr ist das Abendessen fertig?

Das ist sehr theuer.

Wo sind unsere Zim- mer?

Sind Briefe angekom- men fiir Herrn N.?

Hier ist mein Pass.

Ist das Fruhstiiek fer- tig?

Geben Sie mir zu trin- ken.

Wie viel Uhr ist es ?

Wie ist das Wetter?

Wie befinden Sie sich?

Sehr wohl, ich danke

Ihnen. Haben Sie ein Zimmer

zu vermiethen?

Due biglietti di prima classe per X, se vi pi ace,

Ecco, signore.

Quanto avete pagato perquesti biglietti?

A che ora si cena?

E carissimo.

Dove sono le nostre ca-

mere? Vi sono lettere per il

Signor N. posta re-

stante? Ecco il mio passaporto. £ in tavola la cola-

zione? Datemi da here.

Che ora e? Che tempo fa?

Come sta?

Benissimo, la ringrazio.

Avrebbe una camera da affittare?

TRAVELERS' TELEGRAPHC CODE.

Before making use of the words in this Code, it is essential that intending users should satisfy themselves that the friends tvithtchom they intend to correspond have in their possession the same edition of the work as the one about to he used.

This Code is intended as a means of reducing the expense of telegraphing. A single word means a whole sentence. A copy of the Code should be left with the person at home to whom telegrams would naturally be sent (whose name and address should be registered at the local telegraph-office). The blank ciphers are for private phrases, to form a personal Code between two persons, who may agree upon certain sentences, and write them care- fully in their two books. This Code has been made up expressly for The Complete Pocket Guide.

Almond Telegraph to .

Almost Telegraph as soon as possible.

Aloes Telegraph your reply.

Aloft Telegraph and keep us well posted.

Aloof Inform us by telegraph.

Aloud Telegraph us what to do.

Air Telegraph if you do not understand our

despatch. Ajar Cannot understand your telegram. Please

repeat. Akin We cannot understand the word in your

telegram. Please repeat it.

Alack .. The word you do not understand is .

Alarm Your despatch received.

Agog Answer my telegram of .

Agony Answer immediately by telegraph.

Aided Answer by telegraph at .

Alter Telegraphed you, but have no reply.

566 TRAVELERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE

Alum Have you received our telegram of ?

Amaze Have received your telegram of .

Amber If you wish to communicate with me by

telegraph, do so at , before .

Amboy Please advise by telegraph.

Amen Get despatch at telegraph office.

Amical Before despatch received, we had .

Amidst Have you sent us a despatch to-day?

Amity If we don't telegraph you by , you may

conclude .

Ample If you don't telegraph us by , we shall

Amplify What is reason of delay in reply to our

telegram? Amuse

Analogy

Anatomy

Ancestor

Anchor

Ancient

Andiron

Anew

Angel

Angry

Animal

Animate

Ankle

Annals

Annex

Annul

Appeal

Apply

Apron

Baby Your letter of is received.

TRAVELERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE 5fi7

Back Your letter is received.

Bacon Send letters here until the .

Badly Send letters to until the .

Backstay Send letters care of .

Badger We write you .

Baffle We wrote you last mail.

^ Bag Will write you at once.

Bail Full information by to-day's mail.

Bake Have sent you letter by to-day's mail.

Balcony Letter was sent.

Bald Answer by mail.

Ballad No letter to-day; telegraph contents if im- portant.

Balm Have received no letters since .

Banjo Forward no letters after .

Bandit We forwarded letters to on the .

Banner Your letter of received and agreed to.

Banquet Your letter of received and answered.

Baron All matter to date has been forwarded.

Bazar Have you any mail matter on hand for us?

Beadle Await our letter.

Beast We have advices which, in our opinion, may

cause your return to . Where will a

letter soonest reach you?

Beauty We have written you fully on the subject.

Beckon What is reason of delay in replying to our

letter?

Bed

Beef

Befog

Beggar

Betide

Bestow

Betray

Biceps

Birch

Blast

Behead

Behold

Belay

Bench

568 TRAVELERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE

Belt

Bias

Biped

Birthday

Bishop

Bivalve

Blackleg

Blaze

Cabin We shall return at once by .

Caboose We shall return at once by the — — .

Cadet We shall sail for home on the — — .

Cage We sail .

Cake When does sail?

Calico We think it best to delay departure.

Calm We think it best to delay departure until

. If no further advice, shall leave on

that day for .

Caloric Cannot leave .

Cameo Cannot leave until .

Camp Cannot leave . W'ill sail by next steamer.

Canal Have missed steamer.

Canary Have missed steamer; will sail by next.

Candy When does leave?

Cane Steamer sails on .

Cannon Sailing postponed until .

Canopy Tickets lost; send duplicates.

Canteen Arrived all well ; pleasant passage. Tell .

Canvass Arr. all well, but stormy passage. Tell- — .

Caper Arrived all well; pleasant passage. Shall

proceed to .

Caprice Arrived all well, but stormy passage. Shall

proceed to .

Capsize Arrived all well; have written.

Capsule Arrived all well. Address letters to .

Captain Has arrived?

Caramel He arrived on .

Caravan He has not arrived.

Carbon Return at once.

Card Return as .soon as possible.

TRAEVLERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE 569 Cardinal Return at once. Important matters demand

your presence here. Careworn Things look blue. Unless strong reasons to

the contrary, should like to have you

shorten your trip.

Cargo You need not return.

Carmine You need not return until .

Catnip You must be here by the .

Caxton Impossible to return until .

Cement Arrange for our return.

Central Cannot return unless .

Chafe If agreeable, will remain .

Chair When will you return?

Chancel When do you expect to be here?

Chaos We shall be with you by the ■ .

Chapter , Secure passage by this steamer.

Charcoal We shall come by the train leaving at .

Chariot We shall arrive at this station by train due

at .

Charity

Charm

Cherish .,

Cider

Cimeter .

Cipher

Circuit

Citadel

Clack

Coil

Colic

Confront

Dabble Send cable transfer for , through .

Dabster Send me new credit for , through .

Dactyl Remit to me by telegraph through .

570 TRAVELERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE

Dagger . ..

....£5 Darkey £55 Debility ..

£125

Dainty ..

.... 10 Dashed 60 Debut

..ISO

Dale

.... 15 Daub 65 Decamp ...

..175

Dally ....

.... 20 Daylight .... 70 Decay ....

..200

Damper .

.... 25 Daytime 75 Deceit ....

..250

Dance ...

.... 30 Deacon 80 Decide ....

..300

Dandy . .

.... 35 Deadeye 85 Decimal ..

..400

Dangling

.... 40 Deaf 90 Declare ...

..500

Daring . .

.... 45 Debased 95

Dark

.... 50 Debatable ...100

Decrease ...

..Remit at once.

Deem

..We have remitted.

Deface

..Have you forwarded remittance?

..We cannot remit.

..We cannot remit more than .

Defeat

Defection ...

Defence ....

..We send draft by first mail.

Defiance

..Will honor draft.

Deform

Defrayed ...

..Will you honor my draft?

Deftly

..Will you honor my draft to amount of

?

Delve

..Please prepay passage per .

Demerit ....

..Please prepay passage and telegraph of steamer.

name

Democrat ...

..Have prepaid your passage per , sa

on .

iling

Demon

..Are without funds; send money to

Dentist

Dunce

Damask

Dastard —

Daughter ...

Debris

Destiny .... Deck

Denizen

Denote

Dense

Depose

Depress

Derange .... Device

TRAVELERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE 571

Dilute

Disclose

Distress

Divan

Dock

Dome

Dowdy

Drab

Drama

Drill

Dress

Drum

Eagle In consequence illness of , we are de- tained here. Send letters here until the .

Earth is better,and we hope to leave on the .

East is seriously ill; will advise you again.

Ebony .= is sick, but not dangerously.

Echo •• is improving slowly.

Edible is very much better; no need of your

returning.

Editor is no better. Would come home at once.

Educate is in a critical condition.

Efface is rapidly sinking.

Effort died last night.

Egress died yesterday.

Elapse died to-day.

Elaborate Please express our sympathy.

Electric We are all well, and there is no need of

your returning.

Elevate Hope all are well.

Enchant All are well.

Elixir

Elongate

572 TRAVELERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE

Elope

Eluded

Empire

Emulate

Endow

Engine

Gadfly Stay as long as you like. Everything is as

it should be, and all are well.

Gaiter Everything sound, and doing well.

Galaxy We propose extending tour.

Gallant We propose extending tour to . If all

right, telegraph.

Game When will you be in ?

Garden We expect to reach by .

Garrison Will meet you at .

Gastric We wish to know where you can be met

between now and .

Gazette Do as you think best.

Gender Can you arrange?

Genial We can arrange.

Geyser We cannot arrange.

Ghost Everything satisfactorily arranged.

Gimlet We think it advisable to

Ginger We think well of ,

Girlhood \Ve do not think well of .

Gladden Act according to your own judgment.

Glancing How is business?

Glass Business is good. Everything all right.

Gleam Anything the matter? No word from you

by mail or wire.

Glide Send us word at once.

Glimmer Xothing the matter; all well. Have written.

Glisten Do nothing until you hear from me.

Glory Where is ?

Glue Do you know address of ?

Goblin Address of party is .

Goddess Address cannot be given.

Gondola When did you send ?

Goodness Have you done so?

Gotham Have you done anything?

Gothic Keep this confidential.

TRAVELERS' TELEGRAPHIC CODE 573

Gouge —

Gout

Govern .. Gown —

Grab

Grade .... Gradual .. Grammar Greedy ...

Grief

Grocer ...

Growl

Grain .... Guard ....

INDEX.

Abbeville, 185

Abbotsford, 101 Aberdeen, 89 Abergele, 33 Abo, 521 Adelsberg, 295 ^tna. Mount, 441 Agbadoe, 9 Agram, 295 Ahrweiler, 253 Ailsa Craig, 63 Airolo, 326 Aix-la-Chapelle,

248 Aix-les-Bains, 502 Alatri, 425 Albacete, 473 Albano, 420 • Alessandria, 351 Algeciras, 481 Alicante, 472 Alloway, 62 Alpnach, 327 Althorp Park, 125 Altona, 271 Altorf, 325 Amalfi, 439 Ambleside, 48 Amboise, 221 Ambras, 303 Amiens, 184 Amsteg, 325 Amsterdam, 242 Anagni, 425 Anago, Lake, 431 Ancona, 376 Andermatt, 326 Andernach, 254 Anglesea, 29 Angouleme, 501 Annan, 59

Annesley, 118 Antibes, 456 Antwerp, 237 Aosta, 339 Appian Way, 416 Aqua Acetosa, 419 Aranjuez, 486 Arbroath, 89 Arcachon, 500 Ardchattan, 79 Ardrishaig, 84 Arenfels, 254 Arezzo, 387 Ariccia, 421 Aries, 458 Arnhem, 244 Arona, 345 Arras, 185 Assissi, 388 Assmannshausen. 261 Athlone, 24 Auburn, 24 Augsburg, 305 Automobiling,

xxvii. Avernus, Lake, 432 Avignon, 460 Avoca, Vale of, 22 Awe, Loch, 78 Ayr, 61

Bacharach, 260 Badajos, 495 Baden-Baden, 312 Baggage, xiii. Baia, 433 Baireuth, 309 Bakewell, 120 Balearic Isles, 464 Ballater, 90 Balmoral, 90

Balquhidder, 78 Bamberg, 309 Banavie, 81 Bangor, 30 Bannockburn, 87 Barbizon, 220 Barcelona, 464 Basle, 315 Bassenthwaite, S5 Bath, 174 Battle Abbey, 171 Baveno, 345 Bavonne, 494 Baziasch, 293 Bedford, 137 Belcaro, 390 Belfast, 27 Belgium, 225 Belgrade, 293 Bellaggio, 347 Bellinzona, 321 Belvoir Castle, 116 Ben Ledi, 11 Ben Lomond, 74 Ben Venue, 76 Bergamo, 353 Bergen, 511 Berlin, 274 Bernardino Pass,

321 Berne, 330 Bernese Oberland,

285 Bernina Pass, 322 Besangon, 462 Beverley, 111 Biarritz, 494 Biasca, Bienne, 336 Bingen, 262 Birkenhead, 43

57G

INDEX

Birmingham, 121

Black Forest, 312

Blarnev Castle, 4

Blois, 220

Blue Grotto, 437

Bologna, 370

Bonn, 250

Boppard, 259

Bordeaux, 499

Bordighera, 452

Borromean Isles,

345

Boston, 116

Bothwell, n

Bougival, 217

Boulogne, 179

Bowness, 47

Bozen, 304

Bracciano, 423

Bradford, 112

Braemar, 90

Bray, 22

Bremen, 271

Brenner Pass, 304

Brescia, 354

Brest, 187

Brieg, 341 Brienz, Zll Brighton, 171 Brindisi, 111 Bristol, 174 Britannia Bridge, ' 29 Broek, Bruck, 295 Bruges, 233 Briinig Pass, 327 Brunswick, 269 Brussels, 229 Bucharest, 294 Budapest, 291 Burgos, 493 Bute, 84 Buttermere, 52 Buxton, 120 Cadenabbia, 347 Cadiz, 481

Caen, 185 Caernarvon, 32 Calais, 179 Caledonian Canal, 81 Callander, 11 Camaldoli, 432 Cambridge, 135 Campagna, The,

417 Cannes, 456 Cannstadt, 306 Canossa, 374 Canterbury, 177 Capellen, 258 Capri, 437 Capua, 425 Cardiff, 175 Cardross, 71 Carlisle, 57 Carlsbad, 282 Carlsruhe, 312 Carrara, 449 Caserta, 436 Cashel, 15 Cassel, 268 Cassino, 425 Castellamare, 436 Castel Gandolfo,420 Catania, 441 Caub, 260 Cauterets, 498 Cawdor Castle, 83 Ceprano, 425 Certosa, La, 351, 372 Cesena, 376 Cette, 464 Chalons, 223 Chambord, 321 Chamounix, 336,337 Chantilly, 218 Charleroi, 227 Charlottenburg,

Chartres, 187 Chateau Thierry, 222

Chatham,177 Chatillon, 220 Chatsworth, 119 Chaumont, 221 Chaudfontaine,228 Chenonceaux, 221 Cherbourg, 186 Chester, 35 Chiavenna, 321 Chillon, 335 Chioggia, 368 Chiselhurst, 176 Chiswick, 171 Christiania, 508 Civita Vecchia, 445 Clarens, 235 Cloyne, S Coblence, 255 Coburg, 271 Coimbra, 496 Coire, 320 Colchester, 171 Col de Balme, ZZ1 Coleraine, 26 Colico, 321, 347 Cologne, 245 Como, 346, 347

Compiegne, 219

Coniston Lake, 49

Connemara, 25

Constance, 317

Consuls, 541

Conway, 31

Copenhagen, 503

Coppet, 334

Corra Linn, 12

Cordova, 474

Cork, 3

Corniche Road, 451

Correggio, 374

Cortona, 388

Coventry, 123

Cowes, 173

Cracow, 294

Cremona, 357

Cronstadt, 521

Crystal Palace, 169

INDEX

577

Culloden, 83 Cumse, 438 Darmstadt, 311 Deauviile, ISO Delft, 240 Denmark, 503 Derby, 118 Derbyshire, Teak

of, 118 Derwentwater, 55 Dieppe, 180 Dijon, 221 Dinan, 186 Domo d'Ossola, 344 Douai, ?.7i Dover, 177 Drachenfels, 251 Doncaster, 114 Dresden, 278 Drogheda, 22 Drontheim, 511 Dryburgh Abbey,

101 Dublin, 16 Dulwich. 1C9 Dumbarton, 70 Dumfries, 59 Dunblane, 87 Dundee, 88 Dunkeld, 88 Dunoon, 85 Dunottar Castle, 88 Durham, 103 Diisseldorf, 245 Eastbourne, 171 Eaton Hall, 39 Eaux-Bonnes, 498 Eaux-Chaudes, 498 Ecclefechan, 58 Eddystone Light,

176 Edenhall, 57 Edinburgh, 90 Ehrenbreitstein,

256 Ehrenfels, 262 Eisenach, 271

Elsinore, 506 Elstow, 137 Eltville, 263 Ely, 134 Emmerich, 244 Ems, 256 Engadine, 321 Enghien, 218 England, 35 Erfurt, 272 Ermononville, 219 ! Escurial, 490 1 Esthwaite, 46 Eton, 168 Etretat, 181 Evora, 497 Evreux, 185 Exeter, 176 Faenza, Z76 Faro, 497 Fecamp, 181 Ferentino, 425 Ferney, 333 Ferrara, 369 Fiesole, 387 Florence, 378 Fliielen, 325 Foggia, 424 Folkestone, 177 Foligno, 389 Fontainebleau, 219 Forli, 370 Fort Augustus, 82 Fountains Abbey,

106 France, Northern,

179 France, Souther

454 Frankfort, 266 Franzensbad, 282 Frascati, 421 Freiburg, 313, 332 Frejus, 456 Frosinone, 425 Frutigen, 330 Fulda, 271

Furca Pass, 326 Furness Abbey, 44 Fiirstenberg, 261 Galway, 24 Garda, Lake of,

348, 354 Gastein, 297 Gemmi Pass, 330 Geneva, 332 Genoa, 449 Genzano, 421 Germany, 245 Gerona, 464 Ghent, 234 Giants' Causeway, 26 Gibraltar, 480 Giessbach, 328 Girgenti, 445 Glamis Castle, 89 Glasgow, 64 Glastonbury, 175 Glen Fruin, 71 Corner Grat, 295 Gotha, 271 Gothenburg, 508 Grange, 44 Granada, 476 Granville, 186 Grasmere, 53 Gratz, 295 Greenock, 71 Greenwich, 169 Grimsel Pass, 326 Grindelwald, 328 Grotta Ferrara, 422 Haarlem, 242 Hague, The, 240 Hal, 225 Halle, 273 Hamburg, 270 Hamilton, 72 Hammerfest, 512 Hammerstein, 254 Hampstead, 169 Hampton Court,

16S

INDEX

Hanover, 269 Harrogate, 106 Harrow, 170 Hastings, 171 Havre, 180 Haworth, 112 Heidelberg, 310 Helensburgh, 71 Helsingfors, 521 Helvellyn, 51 Herculaneum, 434 Highgate, 169 Highlands, Scot- tish, 1Z Holland, 239 Holyhead, 29 Homburg, 267 Hotels, xxi Honfleur, 181 Hull, 111 Hyeres, 456 Innsbruck, 303 Interlaken, 328 Inverary, 75 Inverness, 83 Inversnaid, 75 lona, 80 Ipswich, 137 Ireland, 1 Iron Gates, 293 Irongray, 60 Ischia, 438 Ischi, 297 Iseo, 34S Isola Bella, 345 Italy, 343 Jerez, 482 Johannisberg, 263 Jungfrau, 329 Kandersteg, 330 Kasan Defile, 293 Katrine, Loch, 76 Kelheim, 309 Kenilworth, 124 Keswick, 54 Kew, 168 Kidderminster, 122

Killarney, 6, 8 Kingstown, 23 Komorn, 291 Konigsstuhl, 258,

310 Konigswinter, 251 Konigstein, 281 Kreuznach, 262 Laach, 254 Laeken, 232 Lahneck, 258 Laibach, 295 Lanark, 72 Lausanne, 332 Lauterbrunnen,

329 Lido, 368 Leamington, 153 Lecco, 347 Leeds, 111 Leghorn, 445 Leipsic, 272 Leith, 98 Lemberg, 294 Lerida, 470 Lerins, Isles of, 456 Letter of Credit,

viii. Leuk, Baths of, 330 Locarno, 345 Leyden, 241 Liege, 227 Lille, 226 Limerick, 15 Lincoln, 115 Linkoping, 507 Linlithgow, 87 Linz, 253, 296 Lisbon, 495 Lisieux, 185 Liverpool, 40, xv Llandaff, 175 Locarno, 345 Lochy Loch, 82 Lodore, 54 Lomond, Loch, IZ London, 141

Londonderry, 27 Lorch, 261 Louvain, 232 Lucca, 448 Lucerne, 323 Lugano, 346 Luino, 346 Lund, 507 Lungara, 4C5 Lurlei, 260 Luxembourg, 228 Lyons, 461 Macon, 222 Madrid, 486 Magdenburg, 270 Maggiore, Lake,

345 Majorca, 467 Malaga, 479 Malahide, 22 Malamocco, 368 Malines, 236 Malmaison, 217 Malmo, 507 Manchester, 113 Mannheim, 310 Mantes, 184 Mantua, 357 Marburg, 268 Margate, 171 Marino, 422 Marksburg, 259 Marly, 217 Marseilles, 457 Martigny, 336 Matlock Bath, 120 Matterhorn, 340 Maybole, 62 Mauchline, 61 Mayence, 264 Maynooth, 24 Meaux, 222 Mechlin, 236 Meiringen, 327 Melrose, 99 Menaggio, 346 Menai Bridge, 30

INDEX

oTd

Mentone, 454 Meran, 304 Mer de Glace, 337 Messina, 440 Metz, 263 Meudon, 220 Milan, 348 Minorca, 468 Miramar, 295 Modena, 372 Monaco, 456 Money, xv. Monreale, 444 Mons, 225 Monserrat, 467 Mont Blanc, 338 Monte Cenis, 343 Monte Rosa, 340. Montmorency, 218 Montpellier, 464 Morat Lake, 336 Moscow, 526 Moselle River, 257 Mouse Tower, 262 Mt. St. Michel, 186 Munich, 298 Murrano, 368 Miirren, 329 Nairn, 83 Namur, 227 Nancy, 223 Naples, 424 Narbonne, 464 Nemi Lake, 367 Neuchatel, 335 Neuwied, 254 Newark, 116 Newcastle, 103 Newmarket, 137 Nice, 455 Niederwald, 262 Niederwerth, 255 Nijni-Novgorod,

528 Nimes, 459 Nisidk, 431 Xonnenwerth, 224

■ Northampton, 138 I

Norway, 508 I

Norwich, 136 '

Nottingham, 117 '

Novara, 353

Nuremberg, 306

Nyon, 334

I Oban, 77,79 ! Ober-Ammergau, I 302

I Oberlahnstein,258

Oberwesel, 260

Ocean Voyage, vii.

Odessa, 529

Oporto, 497

Orange, 461

Orleans, 220

Orsova, 293 i Orta, 347 i Orvieto, 388

Ostend, 2Z2

Ostia, 423 [ Otranto, 377 !

Oxford, 138

Padua, 358 |

Passtum, 438 !

Palermo, 443 j

Palestrina, 423 i

! Palma, 467 i

! Paris, 187

Parma, 373 :

Passports, viii. !

Patterdale, 51

Pau, 498

Pavia, 351

Paysley, ^Z

Perpignan, 464

Perth, 87

Perugia, 388 j

Pesaro, 376

Peschiera, 348, 354

Pesth, 291 i

Peterborough, 133

Pfalz, 260 j Piacenza, 357 j

Pierrefonds, 219 I Pillnitz, 280 I

Potsdam, 278 Pozzuoli, 432 Prague, 281 Presburg, 291 Preston, 43 Procida, 438 Putney,171 Queenstown, 2 Ragatz, 319 Pisa, 446 Pistoja, 377 Plymouth, 176 Poitiers, 501 Pompeii, 435 Pontresina, 322 Port Mahon, 468 Portrush, 26 Portsmouth, 172 Portugal, 495 Posilippo, 431 Railways, xvii. Ramsgate, 171 Rapperschwyl, 319 Ravello, 439 Ratisbon, 308 Ravenna, 374 Reggio, 374, 440 Remagen, 253 Renfrew, 70 Rheims, 222 Rheineck, 254 Rheinfels, 259 Rheinstein, 261 Rhense, 259 Rhine, 250 Rhyl, 33

Rhone Glacier, 326- Rhotesey, 84 Richmond, 168 Righi, The, 324 Rimini, 376 Ripon, 105 Riva, 348 Rochester, 176 Rolandseck, 252 Rome, 390 Roslin, 99

580

INDEX

Rothesay, 84 Rotterdam, 239 Roubaix, 226 Rouen, 181 Roveredo, 304, 357 Rovigo, 369 Rowardennan, 74 Riidesheim, 263 Rueil, 217 Rugby, 133 Russia, 521 Rydal, 52 Ryde, 174 Saguntum, 471 St. Albans, 170 St. Andrews, 89 St. Bernard Pass,

339 St. Cloud, 216 St. Denis, 218 St. Germain, 217 St. Goar, 259 St. Gothard Pass,

323 St. Malo, 186 St. Maurice, 336 St. Moritz, 322 St. Petersburg, 522 St. Quentin, 225 St. TheodulePass,

295 Salerno, 438 Salisbury, 172 Salzburg, 296 Salzkammergut,

297 San Marino, 376 San Luzzaro, 268 San Remo, 452 San Sebastian, 494 Santarem, 495 Saragossa, 468 Savona, 452 Saxon Switzer- land, 280 Saxon-les-Bains,

340

Scarborough, 110 Sceaux, 220 Schaffhausen, 316 Scheveningen, 241 Schiedam, 240 Schonbrunn, 288 Scotland, 59 Sebastopol, 529 Sedan, 223 Semmering Pass,

295,344 Servia, 293 Seville, 482 Sevres, 216 Sheffield, 114 ,

Sicily, 439 i

Siena, 389 Simplon Pass, 340 Sion, 340 Solfatara, 432 Solferino, 354 Sorrento, 437 Southampton, 172 Spa, 228 I

Spain, 405 |

Spezia, La, 449 Spiez, 330 ■

Spires, 311 Spliigen Pass,

319-320 Staffa, 80 Stafford, 122 Stahleck, 231 Staubbach, 329 Steamships, ix. Stirling, 85 Stockholm, 513 Stolzenfels, 258 Stratsbourg, 312 Stratford-on-

Avon, 129 Stresa, 345 Stuttgart, 305 |

Subiaco, 423 i

Sweden, 513 Switzerland, 315 Syracuse, 442 |

Taormina, 441 Taranto, 377 Tarascon, 460 Tarbet, 74 Tarragona, 470 Temesvar, 294 Teplitz, 283 Terni, 389 Thrasymene Lake,

388 Throndhjem, 511 Thun, Lake of, 330 Tivoli, 422 Toledo, 491 Torcellc, 369 Torquay, 176 Torre dei Schiavi,

420 Tortosa, 471 Toulon, 456 Toulouse, 500 Tours, 221 Traun See, 297 Trent, 257 Treves, 257 Trieste, 295 Trossachs, The, 76 Trouville, 180 Toul, 223 Tunbridge Wells,

172 Turin, 352 Tusculum, 421 Tyrol, 302 Ullswater, 51 Ulm, 305 Upsala, 519 Urbino, 376 Utrecht, 244 Valence, 461 Valencia, 471 Valenciennes, 225 Valladolid, 492 Vallombrosa, 387 Vaucluse, 460' Velletri, 425 Venice, 360

Vennachar, Loch,

n

Verona, 354 Versailles, 213 Vesuvius, 434 Vevey, 235 Via Mala, 320 Vicenza, 358 Vichy, 501 Vienna, 250 Vienne, 283 Wales, 29 Walhalla, The, 309

INDEX

Wallenstadt,

Lake, 319

Wartburg, 271 Warwick, 126 Waterford, 15 Waterloo, 232 Weimar, 272 W^ells, 175 Whitby, 111 Wiesbaden, 268 Wight, Isle of, 173 Wildbad, Gastein, 297

581

Wilhelmshohe, 269 Winchester, 173 Windermere, 47, 48 Windsor, 167 Worcester, 122 Worms, 311 Wiirzburg, 309 York, 106 Yverdon, 335 Zaandam, 243 Zermatt, 326, 339 ' Zurich, 317