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"We went to the Amras [...] stones which represent trees, fruits, shells, and animals, all which are the pure product of nature"--Nouveau voyage d'ltalie (1691) by Maximilian Misson

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Nouveau voyage d'ltalie (1691) is a book by Maximilian Misson, which was to be the standard travel guide to Italy for the following fifty years.

It was preceded by Voyage or a Complete Journey through Italy by Lassels.

Full text of English translation

VANDRIN ODO Printed for W.Freeman T. Goodwin I.Walthoe M.Wotton , B.Took , R.Bonwick. J. Nichoyon S. Manship, R.Parker, and R. Smith Krifsonha NEW VOYAGE Τ ο ITALY. WITH Curious OBSERVATIONS on ſeveral Other Countries ; As, GERMANY ; SWITZERLAND ; SAVOY; GENEVA ; FLANDERS; and HOLLAND. Together, With Uſeful INSTRUCTIONS for thoſe who ſhall Travel thither. In Four VOLUMES. The Fourth Edition, with large Additions throughout the Whole, and adorn’d withſeveral new Figures. VOL.. I. PART I. Dicitur & noftros cantare Britannia Verſus. ( Martial. L. xi. Epigr. 4. ) LONDON, Printed for R.Bonwicke , Ja. Toaſon, W. Freeman, Tint.Goodwin, 9. Walthoe, M.Wotton , S. Manship, B. Tooke, 3. Nicholſon, R. Parker, and R. Smith . 1714. ܕ ܕ a A NEW VOYAGE TO ITALY. With Curious OBSERVATIONS on ſeveral Other Countries ; As, GERMANY ; SWITZERLAND ; SAVOY , GENEVA , FLANDERS; and HOLLAND. Together, With Uſeful INSTRUCTIONS for thoſe who ſhall Travel thither. The Fourtb Edition , Enlarg’d above one Third , and Enrich'd with ſeveral new Figures. VOL. 1. Dicitur & noftros cantare Britannia Verſus. ( Martial. L. xi. Epigr. 4. ) LONDON, Printed for R Bonvicke, W. Freeman , Tim . Goodwin , J. Walthoe, M.Wotton , B.Tooke, J. Nicholſon , R. Parker, S. Manbip and R. Smith . 1714. Verbank i 3 TO The Right Honourable CHARLES, EARL of ARRAN ; VISCOUNT TULLO ; BARON of WESTON; AND OF CLAG HERNAN : CAPTAIN Of a Troop of the Guards : LIEUTENANT- GENERAL In the Armies of HER MAJESTY. &c. &c. MY LORD, S INCE You did not diſdain fa vourably to receive theſe Me moirs notwithſtanding their Im perfections , the firſt Time I had the Honour of preſenting them to A 2 YOUR Epiſtle Dedicatory. . con YOUR LORDSHIP, I have Reaſon now to hope that after their having the Advantage of gaining ſome Ap probation from the Publick , and their being augmented by a ſiderable Number of Obſervations, You will Vouchfafe to let me pub lith them again under Your IL LUS TRIOUS NAME. I ſay under Your Name, MY LORD, and not under your Auſpicies, according to the uſual Language, and improper Notion of the Greateſt Part of thoſe that write Dedications : For it is certainly in Vain, and even Wrong fully, that they took the Cuſtom in theſe Sorts of Epiſtles , to demand Protection for their Books , of the Greateſt Lords to whom they De dicate ' em. When theſe Books are worthy of Efteem , they have no Occaſion of being Protected ; and if I Epifle Dedicatory. ON EN if they do not deſerve it , not all the Potentates of the World wou'd be Able to ſecure them from thap Contempt which is their merited Portion YOUR LORDSHIP will alſo ſee that I have not conformed my felf to another Practice which is no leſs univerſal among the Writers of this Age, to overload thoſe with Elogies, to whom they Addreſs their Works ; not conſidering that the more thoſe Perſons deſerve Praiſes, the leſs they take Pleaſure in recei ving them . And it is indeed a Sort of Offence, to thoſe we wou'd ho. nour, to diſplay their Vercues before their own Eyes. For this Reaſon, MY LORD , I muſt not enter now into that vaſt Field which lies open before me, by following the common Method. I ſhall feck, and Zea oli 0 . a 1 Ą 3 Epiſtle Dedicatory.

Zealouſly embrace at any other Time , the Opportunity of doing Juſtice to all the excellent Qualifi cations which I have ſo often ob. ſerved in You , from Your very Youth, ( the Conduct of which Your moſt Illuſtrious Grand-Father the DUKE of ORMOND was pleaſed to commit to my Care ; ) but am too particularly acquainted with the extraordinary modeſt Difpofi tion of Your Mind , to tire You wich any ſort of Encomiums. I ſhou'd be afraid that my Book wou'd meet with the ſame Diſgrace that that did , which a Great Prince wou'd never ſuffer it to be placed in his Library which was open to all the Learned, becauſe, as he ſaid , ( tho ', perhaps with too fcrupulous à Delicacy, ) that Decency wou'd not allow him to extoll himſelf , by >

Saint Louis . Epiſtle Dedicatory. I OG DUI och by thus expoſing his own Praiſes, doin'in a Book whoſe Dedication was ſo full of ' em. I will add Nothing ; MY LORD, Ver var to what my Pen has already noted Your concerning Your moſt High Birth : . all the World ſufficiently knows it. Neither will I inſiſt upon the Glory that YOUR LORDSHIP has acquired by Your Valour , during theſe laſt Long Wars ; following Spo by ſuch a Conduct the Foot-ſteps of YourNOBLE ANCESTORS. But , MY LORD , if I forbear mentioning thoſe Things., for fear of diſpleaſing You, give me Leave, I humbly intreat YOUR LORD SHIP, to ſay that it wou'd be an extreme Satisfaction to me, to be Able to expreſs my Graticude , for all the Favours Your Goodneſs has ſo many Times Thew'd me ; and how A 4 great 1 S. > ou 700 ICH ON ful Epiſtle Dedicatory. great a Part I always take in every Thing that concerns your Perſon ; there being Nothing ſo pleaſing to me , as to ſee YOUR LORD SHIP injoying more and more Con tent , and Happineſs. I ſhall be as long as I live with a moſt profound Reſpect, MY LORD, YOUR LORDSHIP's Moſt Humble, and, moſt Obedient Servant, MAXIMILIAN MISSON. TO TO THE READER J OSEPH PAMELIUS, an Ingeni ous Man , has compoſed Some. Dialogues, in one of which be declaims mightily againſt * Prefaces in general; but particularly againſt thoſe who make 'em . He complains among other Things, of certain Writers that Spendtheir Lives incompoſing unprofitable Books, not to ſay fooliſh ones, and make a ſhew of thoſe Trifles in their Prefaces, with as grave an Air, as if they were treating of the moſt important Matters in the World . He cannot bear, for Example, the Treatiſes of Muſonius, and Lau rentius, De Meretricibus Veterum. Favorinus and Manaplius are inſupportable to him, when they bethink themſelves to make an Encomium on a Quartan Ague. He laughs at Allatius, the Modern † Appion , for tormenting himſelf to find out Homer's Country, &c. And the >

• Præfationes inutilia tibi videntur pondera : Mirum equi.. dem , cùm eas nuſquam ponderes, neq; perpendas. Vanæ funt,

fateor, Cæcis, & Surdis. ( Lud. Albinus :: De libris Scribendis.) That is to ſay ; Prefaces are uſeleſs to thole only who never read 'em ; and are reſolu'd to ſtand faſt in their Reproaches and Preju . dices. It is in vain to ſpeak to the Deaf, or write to the Blindo + Pliny reports, that the Grammarian Appion calid up be Infernal Püppers, to kzo which was the Place of Homer's Birth ( Lib. 2. C. ; o ) Prefaces 2 To the READER. a Prefaces of theſe Sorts of Authors are, in his Opinion, more ridiculous than the Treatiſes them . , ſelves , becauſe they ſhew that they have em ploy'd a great deal of Time with Deliberation, to think on thoſe Things that were not worth their Attention , and which could not be made tolerable by thoſe that produced 'em , but by excuſing themſelves, on Account of a ſudden Whim , in fome unexpected Occaſion . Tho' the Authors that have spent ſome Part of their Leiſure, on theſe Recreations of Lite rature, do not deſerve that ſevere Cenfure, we muſt confeſs that it is grounded upon ſome Rea Sen. One might bearken to that Critick, if his contradi&ting Humour,did not make him place in the Rank of deſpicable Books, ſeveral Works which are very agreeable, and very uſeful ; as among others , are thoſe Hiſtorical Relations, which are publiſh'd under the Title of VOYA G E S. ' Tis in vain for him to ſay, that all theſe Books are filled with Fables ; and that we ſhall not find one in a Thouſand of 'em , that is approved of by the Nations whoſe Countries and Manners are ſo deſcribed , for want of Travellers not having a fufficient Knowledge of both ; and becaule that they are alſo often willing to diſguiſe Things. Every one ſees the Anſwers, that may be made to theſe Reflections, which, if they were juft, would be deſtructive of all Works imaginable ; fince Nothing can be per. fect. He that travels to ſee the World ; to con ſider the different Objects in it ;; to repreſent, or draw to the Life, thoſe which he has made a good To the READER: 111 1 good Choice of ; and to Diſcourſe of ' em judici ; oully, always according to the moſt exact Truth : IfthisTraveller is a Learned Man ; if be is an Univerſal Scholar ; If he is Maſter of the brigh cri teſt Parts ; he meets in bis Travels , the most favourable Opportunity of exerting 'em all ; and th the Relation he will give of 'em, let our Cri stick ſay what he will, may deſerve a very great Efteen , notwithſtanding perhaps fome Defects. P. But beſides, as it is not juſt to expect that the 1 : Productions of Men of Letters, should be all of 5,1 equal Value, so 'tis no more reaſonable to deprive a 'em of the Uſe of Prefaces , upon any Occahon whatſoever. If what they write is not abſolutely .: bad, or altogether not worth Printing ( as cer al tainly the little Treatiſes ſo much deſpiſed by " the Author of whom I ams Speaking , are not) it di would be with Injuſtice that we ſhould be wil. 1 ling to hinder thoſe that write 'em , from al. od ledging their Reaſons; and we ſhould be in the Wrong toconden.n'em without giving them Leave et to explain themſelves. For tho' the Things that Wiſe Men undertake , are not always very uſe Yul; they ought however to make ' em with Care, as they ought alſo shew the Uſe of 'em, when what they do is dehgn'd for the Publick. I hope then, Reader, that bow indifferent foever be the Work which is here preſented you anew , after ** the kind Reception that you have ſeveral Times before vouchjafed to give it , you will not re fuſe to caſt your Eyes not only upon the Adver tiſements containd in theſe first Pages, but al Jo upon thoſe that you will find in the Iwo little Diſcokro iy To the READER !2 , Diſcourſes that follow , one of which was placed at the Beginning of this Relation, in the Firſt Edition which was printed in Holland ; and the otber was added ſome time after. We neceſarily alter in Proportion as we ad vance in age ; the Body changes , and ſo does the Mind too. To what Purpoſe would our Read ings, sur Meditations, and our Experience ſerve # 5, if all that did not bring ſome new Light, and free our Minds from ſeveral Prejudices

howcould we grow better , if we were always the ſame . I have then alter'd or chang'd ſome of the Things that are the subject of theſe Let ters ; not being row in 1714 , the ſame that I was in 1688 , when I collected the Materials for 'em , with many light Conceits of a Man come freſh from the Univerſities. If I have not made greater Changes , according to my new Ideas which indeed I believe to be now the Beſt

' tis becauſe I did not think it abſolutely neceſſary

this Edition had been too much different by thoſe Alterations, from the preceding ones . Among the Things that are added in this

ſome Peri

fons to whom I communicated theſe Additions before they were printed, told methat accord ing to their Opinion , ſome of 'em were above the Sphere of theſe Sorts of Books ; eſpecially certain Theological Matters. But that Thought I am ſure, has, at best , Nothing in it but Ap pearance. Tbere is no subject, that cannot na . turally enter into Letters

and theſe bere are Letters. To whom does it belong to preferibe Suljetts of Entertainment between two Friends

1 1 ihat To the READER. V .le 11 ibat hold aa Commerce of Letters together ? and I add, that it is ebe ſame Thing with Relations, even tho they ſhould appear in another Form than that of Letters. Ibe moſt judicious Tran vellers have not forgot to speak of the Religion of different Nations which they have viſited : And as they have bad the juſt Liberty to fill their Memoirs both with thoſe Matters , and whatever elſe preſented it ſelf to their Eyes, or to their Knowiedge, so cou'd they alſo reaſonably publiſh thoſe very Memoirs, in which theſe fee veral Things bave been taken Notice of upor every Opportunity that offer'd it ſelf , during their Travels. But to return to Letters, we muſt ſtill ſay, that many Perſons do not enough obſerve the very great Difference that theyought to make between the Deſcription of a Country, and the Familiar, and free Relation, that a Traveller gives of that Country in his Letters, without undertaking any Sort of Treatiſe, or Dillertarios. . A Deſcription, in the first Place, requires us to forget Nothing that deſerves Obſervation in the Subject we pretend to deſcribe ; and ſecondly, it does not permit us to deviate from the ſame Subject. But the Advertiſements that are to be ſeen from the Beginning, at the Top of theſe two Volumes, never promiſed any Deſcription that a Traveller who makes but a little Stay in the Places that he viſts, might not reaſo nably undertake. I communicare, as I am tra velling, to thoſe whom I write to, what Things ſoever I meet with, that are either Remarkable + 162 or • vi To the READER. or diverting ; but without tying my ſelf up from mentioning any other Things to ' em in my Letters, but thoſe; as alſo without obliging my ſelf to entertain ' em with every Tbing that could be met with in the Places through whicb I paſs. So that, they would do a Thing as lit tle reaſonable in pretending to regulate, or ſet down the Subjects of my Entertainment in my Letters, as if they ſhould take upon 'em to enter into the Knowledge of other sorts of Converſa tions which I might have with the Perſons whom I converſe with : And it ought to be ſufficient for the Reader to make it accept of what is com municated to bim by a Traveller, that his Let ters contain nothing but what is true, and more or leſs deſerving Attention ; provided that his principal Deſign ( conformable to the Title of his Book) be to relate ſingular Matters of Fact, that the Opportunity of Travelling has furniſh'd bing with. I had already, I believe, taken no tice of ſomething like this, in one of the for mer Editions ; but one is obliged to infift, and repeat more than once , when thoſe to whom he Speaks, have Prejudices that Spring up again , or when their Memory fails 'em . I have done what I cou'd to ſave the Ana chroniſmes, or Inconſiſtencies upon the Point of Times, when I inſerted certain Changes, or cer tain Faits which have happen'd ſome Tearsago : but if any Irregularity of this Nature has ſlip ped by, thro' ſome Inadvertence, I hope that lit tle Fault will be eahly excus’d. Among To the READER. vii 1 Among the Additions, there are ſome Things to be met with , that do not agree, I know it, with vulgar Notions : but that does not concern thoſe of my Readers, whoſe Eſteem I here pro poſe to cultivate , ſince they all, as well as 1, Speak the Language of that celebrated Author, whole * Words I have cited upon the Same Sub ject. The Pleaſure that Perſons of right Senſe, and free from Prejudice , enjoy together, when in a mature sige, they communicate with full Liberty the ſweet Fruits of their long andſe rious Inquiries ; their Pleaſure, I ſay, then is fo taking to 'em,, and produces in their Minds ſo happy a Tranquillity, that the various Mur murs of the Populace are not able to give 'em any Concern , but by raiſing in 'em . Sentiments of Some Compaſion for their blind Cenfures. 1 call Populace and Vulgar, upon this Occaſion, all that ſervum Pecus, whoſe vile Opinions have no other ſupport but their Prejudices. Andfor the Perſons of another Rank, who for Want of Underſtanding me throughly, may perhaps be of fended at the Liberty I have taken in certain Reflections, I deſire 'em to caſt their Eyes upon the Article mark'd RB in Pag . 447 of the Se cond Volume, where without doubt, they will find enough to ſatisfie themſelves , and to do me Juſtice.

• Such is my Character, &c. See above, ( Vol. II. Pag. 59.

Nunquam volui Populo placere, nam quæ ego fcio non pro bat Populus , & quæ probat Populus, ego neſcio . ( Seneca , Epilt. 29. ) Quærendum non eft qucd Vulgo place peflimo Veriracis Interpreti. ( Id . de Vita beata , L. 2.) If 19 viji To the READER - If the Peace has given any Calm to our Illes after the bloody Conflicts they have had with our GREAT Neighbour , it has left us involved in ſuch Dillentions , and inteſtine Animohties that they deprive us of an entire Happineſs ; and theſe lamentable Miſunderſtandings ſeem fó to enflame the Minds, that the moſtmoderate Perſons can hardly binder themſelves from Lift. ing under one of the Banners of this fad Dil * Lond..May cord *. One is even lookd upon, by the Gene rality of the People, as not being in the Faſhion , when he does not take upon himſelf, and with Warmth too, one of theſe faétious Names which my Pen declines to ſet down, of W. or of T. as if wiſe Perſons could not approve or diſap prove of Things , and practiſe or reject them , according as they are good or bad, without ma king any Uſe of thoſe + ridiculous, odious and . 1714 . + The Words W. and T. in their Original Uſe, ( thoſe are the terms of an Engliſh Author ) were of ſcandalous Significations, in the Opinion of thoſe who firſt invented each of ' em. For they, in the Government of Scotland, firſt : fed the Name of W. which they apply'd to thoſe who generally kept their Merings in the Fields, and their common Food wasSour- milk : from that Sort of Diet, they were callid W : for, Whig, in Scotland , fignifies Sour-milk, or Sour-whey. And the Word T. was first uſed by the Proteſtants in Ireland , and by them intended to fignify t hole Iriſh conamon Robbers and Murderers, who ſtood out-law'd for Robbery and Murder . But now, O ftrange Thing ! thoſe hateful Names are own'd, and glory'd in, as Titles of Honour ; tho they be fatal Inſtruments of the great * Deſtroyer : 'Amouw ,Rev.ix. 11 . Di vide, Impera. ) A good Patriot of England ( let him take what Name he pleaſes) is a zealous Member of the true Apoftoli cal Chriſtian Reformed Church ; and a faithful Subject ro che Supream Monarch, to whom he confeſſes that a perfect Obe: dience is conſtantly due, according to his Imperial Preroga tives fettled by the Laws of the Land , and his own Solemn Oath, for the Publick Happineſs, and Peace.... (Maih. 5.9 ) fatal To the READER. ix 7. Fatal Words. What our Ideas are upon this me uit a lancholy Subječt, and our Deſirès for the com colet mon Good (without ever having any Thought to moglo diſpleaſe any Body) the Readermayſee it, in the przy Pages 327, and 328, of the Second Volume. After Speaking of the Alterations and Addi dels tions, I will not diſſemble the Matter , I could wil m 2 lingly have retrench'd entirely ſeveral Things, D' which appear to menow not to be very neceſſary : 6. But one muſt obſerve that theſe Retrenchments cannot be made, after a Book has had a certain de bappy Courſe,eſpecially when there has been ſeves ral Impreſſions of it, and in different Tongues. of The Publiſher may take away what he plea di ſes in one Edition, but be cannot abſolutely Supe the preſs the same , becauſe it ſtill remains in an e) * other ; and ſome will have what is retrench'd , on whether good or bad, rejecting tbe Editions in which thoſe things are wanting, as being im perfect. Theſe Volumes then muſt go on in their Way, very near as they have begun. If ſome Comptrollers ſay, that my beſt bad been to let it alone as it was the firſt Time, I will not much contradi&t them, in that Opinion. And truly I can ſafely afirm , that I should never have touckedit more (my Mind being now emo ploy’d in other Thoughts,) if I had not been much ſollicited by Perſons particularly concerned in it ; and if I had not found Spare Hours enough for theſe Amuſements, in a Country Retirement which kept me fome Time far from London, cette and my Study. ܕܝܼ ؛؛ Sit Com serts 5ok 5,9 ) Some To the READER. 3 Some ſenſible Perſons that ſaw the Proofs of this Edition as they were printed , told me that they did not approve of my filling the Pages with so great a Number of marginal Notes '; and as this Critical Remark may be made by others , it mill be proper to anſwer it bere. Thoſe Perſons Jay, that thefe Notes are troubleſom , becauſe they turn away the Reader's Attention, and interrupt the Thread of the Diſcourſe , and I own it is true : But however if this Reaſon was to prevail, it might be oljeiled againſt all the Books, whoſe Num ber is infinite , in which the like Notes are placed, to enrich the Text, and to clear up the Difficulties of it. The Eſteem , and good Uſe that is daily made of ſo many Commenta ries, as well on the Bible, as on other Books, do not agree with this Complaint · And in vain would they ſay that tbeſe Notes are Proper, when they are not made by the Author himſelf; for it is quite the Contrary.“ It is certain that the Conjectures of our Moderns have Spoild the Works of the Ancients, without excepting the Sacred Books themſelves. If we could dij. cover now adays fome Original Manuſcripts of Tacitus, or of Horace ; of Moſes, or of El dras, with Abundance of Remarks of their own making, our Cenſurers would not 'certainly take a Fancy to object that all theſe Remarks would be troubleſom and perplexing to the Readers : at leaſt, we may ſay , that they would be mucb in the Wrong, to talk fo : ( if tbe Compariſon w not juſt inthe Perfors, it is so in theThing, and To the READER. xi u and in the Manner.) Talſo has publiſh'd some told to pieces of his Poetry , with his own Commenta ing ! ries. Ménage has done the ſame Thing , in orange bis Amenitates Juris : And Mr. Bayle has put 163 ) Annotations upon Annotations in bis Hiſtorical Diđionary. One may have good I bings to ſay ed upon a Subject, which bow good foever they might -ayt be, would make the Diſcourſe languiſhing, and The diffuſed, if introduced as by Forceinto it ; but til they may be placed judiciouſly in the Margin, ity where the Reader finds 'em, and makes uſe of N ' em with Pleaſure. There are ſome Books that ates are not bad , but becauſe their Authors could chen not have the Heart to loſe ſome Thoughrs, or di Facts which appearing to them to be worthy of a Place in their Works, they have put them Bi ſelves under aNeceſſity of introducing them in i to the Body of the Book, inſtead of placing them Pily in the Margin. Let us ſay then , that indeed in there are ſome little Inconveniencies in the Uſe * of Commentaries, but let it be acknowledged at In the ſame Time that it is juſt ſo in almoſt every Thing we do, and even in thoſe that are really ido neceſary. For certainly it is very troubleſome to pull off our Cloaths every Night, and to put them on again every Morning : Eating and Drinking so frequently is another Work very troubleſome, YA that takes up a great Deal of Time, and Pains. in Nevertheleſs we do not conclude from theſe Diffi id culties, that we muſt make a ſhift without theſe in inevitable Things : More or Leſs do not alter Maxims. But beſides, I have another Anſwer 1 ( which is unanſwerable) to make to thoſe that a pali a 22 are 2 xii To the READER. +

2 are afraid of being troubled with the Annota tions they will find here : 'Tis in a Word, that they need only to let 'em alone ; which is in deed eaſy to be done. The Diſcourſe is compleat, and coherent in the Letters ; let ' em then read only the Letters, if they have a Mind to read ' em ; and let 'em let alone the Notes, if they won't have 'em . As I have obſervedforſome Time paſs’d , that young Travellers have made uſe of this Relation , I own I have ſome Times put, on purpoſe for 'em , certain Things in the Margin, which I ſhould have neglected, bad I only had a Regard to other Readers. Thoſe that do not underſtand Latin, complain alſo of their finding too much of it here , but it would not be reaſonable that thoſe that do underſtand it, ſhould loſe what I communicate to 'em, be cauſe others do not know how to make Uſe of it. There are ſome Pieces which I have tranſlated; but I have left the greateſt Part of thoſe, whoſe Grace conſiſts no leſs in the Expreſion than in the Thought. As for thoſe Quotations from the Greek and Latin Poets, which ſeveral offer to introduce in great Numbers, into their Writings, there are but very few of 'em to be found in theſe Let ters. Mr. Menage calls them Eruditions : And Gabriel Naudé, who alſo holds, as every one *

• In his Book intituled , Apologie des Grands Hommes Soupe,

çonnez deMagie. What he ſays is true, that we ought to cire thoſe from whom we borrow the Thoughts we make uſe of ; but thoſe Quotations have no Relation to the pretended As. thorities , which he ſo boaſted of, and of which we are here ſpeaking knows, To the READER. xili Grue knows, a conſiderable Place among the Learned, red,the loved to checker , as he call'd it, his Dil chis courſe with thoſe fine Sentences ; by Mar compki rying his own Conceptions with thoſe of the len ras Ancients , to prevent the Inconveniency of *tori languiſhing and thin Periods : Pretending alſo if that all thoſe Paſſages from Authors of great " forlu Name, were Arguments of great Authority , like ze w Oracles , and very ſtrong Proofs of what he me toI'm advanced . One may indeed make an agreeable Es in Uſe encuzb of ſome Allegations of this Nature. d, kau Weare not diſpleaſed to thew that ſome learned and famous Men of the Old Ages, have thought plains as we do. And when their Expreſions are ſtrong and happy, they ſerve by way of Ornament to under ours, provided we cite 'em but very ſparingly, em and mucbà -propos. But as for Authority, they je bave none at all ; ' Tis a falſe and even a dan canli gerous Imagination . In Things that are Matters fé, of fact, the more Witneſſes there are, the more ani. Proofs there are ; and then, the Witneſſes are indeed true Authorities : But in Matters of reek Speculation and Examination, there is no Proof rodi at all to be drawn from the Opinion of ony Man her whomſoever. All thoſe Perſons whom they call Fa: thers; All thoſe Aſſemblies that they term Coun cils ; all the Homers and Virgils ; all Mankind join’d together may all reaſon ill ; as indeed we bave ſeen at all Times Mens falſe Opinions univerſally received in the World as so many jughe Truths Truths.. Nothing then is more proper to nou riſh Error, than the ill Uſe of theſe sorts of Authoritics. And beſides, 'tis taking his Reader OS : 2001 709282 maker Terenda 7 Wer a 3 xiy To the READER. der for a Dupe, to pretend to make him ben lieve they are very Learned , by ſewing bim all theſe fine Sentences, ſince there are very large Collections of theſe Sorts of Things to be had, f.om whence theIgnorant may draw a great Store of 'em , and make in that Manner a great Shew of Antiquity, without ever having any true Acquaintance with it. As I am far from having a perfect Knowledge of the Engliſh Tongue , I cannot affirm that I have mended all the Faults of the Tranſlation ( which was formerly made in my Abſence, and without my K’nowledge) but I have corrected a great Number of 'em ; and I am miſtaken, if there remains any of thoſe which may be ſaid to be of any Importance. However, I believe I may demand of my equitable Reader, that if he meet with any Polages that do not pleaſe him, and where ’tis not improbable but that the Fault ariſes from the Tranſlator, he be ſo juft us to ſuſpend his Judgment, till he has ſeen my Words in my own Language. For the beſt Tranſlations are defective , even when it hap pens , ( which is very rarely ) that they are more Elegant than the Originals : 'Tis impoßible that a Tranſlater ſhould always rightly enter into the Author's Thought , when the Work is of any Length : and eſpecially when that good Man Fami, non Famæ confulit. In the former Editions, I have taken Notice of ſome Reflections that had been made in pub lick Writings, upon ſeveral Particulars that are To the READER. XV 0 are w es to apa +

0,1 Lai are contain'd in theſe Letters, and it is proper Row to do the ſame Tbing here , leſs for my own Defence , than for the Satisfaction of the Readers : for it is certainly the indiſpenſable Duty of all Hiſtorians, either to acknowledge that they were wiſ inform’d, or to refute thoſe that contradict them. 417) ( 1.) The Learned and Famous Mr. Simon, ( Author of the Critical Hiſtory of the Old and asthe New Teſtament, and of a great Number of other ar Works,) would have been willing that I had not brought the Popefs JOAN again upon the Staje, in my Letters written from Rome: and basattempted, in his † Bibliotheque Cri be tique, to raiſe a new ſome of the Difficulties lai that have already been often objected againſt the Truth of that curious Fact ; but on the other Side, as this ſevere Critick does not attack that our Letters in any other Place ; and even as be does bonour ' em by ſaying , that they are in every Country and Language , a Book of Gold, to thoſe that fell 'em , bis Cenſure is th not a Sign of his deſpiſing théri. He has been very far from being angry, as others have done, with that Ridiculum of Horace, (Ridiculum acri, &c. ) which I have now and then made uſe of againſt certain ſuperſtitious Practices; credita. sha L " En les

• Mr. Frederick Spanheim , Profeffor of Divinity in theUni verſity of Leyden, undertook alſo to prove che Fact of the Popels, fome cime after the Publication of theſe Letters . † He haspublifb'd this Bibliotheque taking the new Name of Saint -Jore ; See farther, To. 11.Pag. 129, the ſeveral other Names, under which this Author has sometimes diſguijed himſelf.

be a 4 xvi To the READER: be that has ſeveral l'imes plainly told us, that he was a Cáraite Chreſtien , and a Catho lique Epuré, always filled with a perfeit Con tempt for all Sorts of Things that ſerve to keep up popular and falſe Devotions. ( See the Firſt Volume of his Lettres Choiſies; p. 44. 68. and elſewhere.) P: (11. ) Some Time ago, a Friend of mine wrote me word from Holland, that a certain Prieſt of the Romijh Seet bad publiſh'd a French Tranſ lation of a little Italian Book , which is a ſmall Alltract of the Lives of the Doges of Venice ; and that this Man takes an Occahon to Speak undecently of the worthy Mr. Amelot , and of Us, becauſe of certain Iruths that we have both Written with ſome Freedom , concerning that Country. If that Book happens to come into England, and it ſhould fall into our Hands, we may perhaps conſider it a little, and ſay ſomething more particular of it in ſome other Place. But ſince it ſeems to be condemnd to the f Scombri of Horace and Martial ; and none of thoſe that publiſh Journals of Litera ture, 'having yet vouchſafed to mention it, I may very well Jay of the Cenſures of this Author, what the fame Martial ſaid of the deſpicable Verſes of a certain Diaulus ; without giving my Jelf the Trouble of refuting kim any other Way. Damnatus ad Aromatopolarum taberna',-- Scombris Mo. leſtas dabis tunicas. (Lib. 3. Epigr. 2 . ) -Carmina quos legunt çacantes ( Lib . 13. Ep. 26.)- See Perf. Sat. 1. Verje 63. And Horat. (Epift. 1. L 2 ) - Quicquid chartis amicitur ineptis .; ju Verſiculos To the READER . xvii Othe Verſiculos in me narrant ſcripſille * Diaulum ;at Non ſcribit cujus Carmina nemo legit. U 19 PE - I will then content my ſelf with adding a Word concerning the † Book of Mr. Leguat, (a good and honeſt Gentleman ) in which they allure me that the Prieſt speaks much otherwiſe than be ought to do. It ſeems, ſay they, that be grounds his unjuſt Liberty upon the Account he has ſeen of Mr. Leguat's Book , in the Journal that is intituled , Nouvelles de la Re publique des Lettres ; in which the Author of the ſaid Nouvelles uſes very ill, without any - Reaſon , both Mr. Leguat, and the Relation be has published. Theſe Sorts of Journals ought not to be turn'd into Defamatory Libels, no more than Sermons. The Journals of Paris, Amſterdam , Leipſick, Trevoux, nor any of theRelt, have nothing in’em but what is civil ; and the good Republick of Letters, is not at all pleas'd with Reading ſuch Jandering News. It would be a ſtrange Thing indeed, that the moſt innocent and commenda ble Perſons ſhould be inevitably expos'd to the Mercy of malicious Pșeachers and Journaliſts, of the like Character, becauſe their Satyrs ge nerally go unpuniſh’d. Some Reaſons which are not neceſſary for me to explain here, oblige me -O a

• Sic , in quibuſdain Codicibus MSS. ut monuit Vir bo nus et doctus-Magliabechi. - Vulgò, Verficulos in me narra dur feribors Cinna, & c

Voyage & Avantures de Mr. Leguata &c. 10 xviii To the READER to ſay here in favour of Mr. Leguat, that the Relation he has publiſhed, is faithful and true ; as reaſonable perſons alſo agree that it con tains many Circumſtances, which are very ex traordinary, and worth Relating ; I am equally certain of both. The objections that are made againſt an Epitaph, and two other ſmall Parti culars of that Nature, in his Book; are fit only to thew the Inconfideration of thoſe that make ' em , as well as their great Unkindner's. As it has often happen'd, that the Writer of the a bovefaid Nouvelles has ridiculd come Books of which he has made Extracts, so he took a Fan cy ( judging of others by himſelf ) that Mr. Le guat was pleaſed to play upon the Abbot de Choiſy, in quoting ſome Words out of one of his Books . But he ought not to give ſuch a traducing Turn to Mr. Leguat's Conduct , which has been very innocent. I know upon his ſe cret andſincere Proteſtation, that he never had the leaſt Intention, in his mentioning the de ſerving Gentleman I juſt now nam'd, to ſay any Thing that cou'd be taken in a diſadvanta gious Senſe, and might derogate from the great Eſteem he has for him. ( II .) Without retracting what I have juſt now ſaid of the † Journal of Trevoux, the Reverend Fathers that compoſe it, will give me Leave to make ſome Reflections here upon their Article of Tome iv, pag. 220 , of the + This Journal is now made at Paris, by fome learned Jefuites, under the Title of Hiſtoire des Sciences & des beaux Aris. Holland To the READER. xix Holland Edition . I muſt ſay then, ( x .) That I do not approve of the Method of thoſe who be gin by believing, and afterwards ſeek for Proofs ; ſo that thoſe Gentlemen do me Injuſtice, in fay ing that ſeveral Places of my Relation are writ ten for thoſe who blindly believe : I never had the leaſt Deſire to be hearken'd to, by Perſons whoſe Minds are thus diſpos’d. (2.) Thoſe fa thers fall into another Mitake, in Acculing me of taking Pleaſure in ſpeaking ill of the Court of Rome. Far from finding any sort of Satis faction in ſpeaking ill of that most famous Court, I would fain withall my Soul ſay a great Deal of Good of her ; but I have not written one Word of any Thing that ought to be applied to the Court of Rome, properly Speaking. If'tis Speaking ill of that Court, to make ſome Re marks upon the Adventures of the Santa Caſa ; upon the Martyrdom of Father Garner ; upon the Trophies of the Vatican for horrible Mala cres ; and upon fome Relicks, and other ſuch Things , I ingenuouſly own , that I have often run thé Hazard of diſpleaſing the Court of Rome : but not to pleaſe ber upon all Occaſions, and to ſpeak ill of her, are different Things : and beſides, I could make a long Liſt of Good Catholicks whoſe direit Paſquils have been more ſevere than my complain’d of Reflections, upor ſeveral Maxims and Practices of that Holy Court. ( 3.) Thoſe miſtaken Writers wrong me ſtill farther, by inſinuating that I alſo take a general Delight in Drawing diſadvantagious Pictures of Things that are in Italy. ' I is the Intereſt To the READER Intereſt of thoſe that publiſh the Relation of their Travels, to relate agreeable Facts, as far as it is poſſible, that they may gain the better At tention ; and according to this Principle, which is not unreaſonable, I have commended with Plea ſure Things worth Commendation , but without Flattery or Exaggeration. And ſince a Man may be permitted to ſpeak of himſelf in Prefaces , I will bere add, that I have wil. lingly adopted one of Father Bouhours Devices, Sponte Favos , ægrè Spicula. Upon this Aca count, I have ſpoken well of ſeveral Perſons, according to my Inclination and Duty. I have made an HonourableMention of the * two Popes that I have ſeen ; of it this preſent Pope, and of ſome others ; without ever blaming , as I know of, any Man living. And thô certain Principles commonly receiv'd, and openly taught by the Jeſuites, have ſome times driven on this Pen into fome Reflections againſt Things that are blameable in my Opi nion ; however I praiſed fome, and taxed none of thoſe Gentlemen. Let us add, that a plain Jeſuite with all his Equivocations, and Maxims of ſuch a Moral, & c. is a Man much leſs dan gerous , than a pretended anti- Jefuitical Hy 1

• Innocent XI, and Innocent XII. of Clement XI.

il Mariin V, and Adrian VI, of whom I have ſpoken accord ing to their perſonal Merit. Who denies that 'a Pope may be as good Man, ' t hough very much wiſtakin in the Notions be has of kis Papacy ? This laſt, I mean Adrian VI, may be put än Competi. tion with the moſt commendable Projetors of a Reformation in the Church of Rome. ( See bere under, Vol . I. p. 65. and the Four following ) pocrite To the READER. xxi pocrite Teacher, that publickly reproves thoſe Maxims, but continually practiſes 'em , and worſe. I have spoken advantagiouſly of the Coun try ; the Air ; the Fruits ; the Churches ; the Houſes ; the Libraries ; the Paintings ; the Ca binets of Rarities ; and a Hundred other Things a beſides : Muſt we neceſarily cry up every indi. vidual Thing , every Object in Italy ? muſt we prefer Tivoli to Verſailles ? the Tyber to the Seine ? & c. &c. Muſt we ſay of the Italians what their unfortunate Boccalini ridiculouſly Said of 'em, that they only have their Brain in their Heads ; whereas other Nations have it in their † Backs ? I have alſo met with I don't know what other Cenſurer, which has accus'd me with not loving the Venetians : but this Imputation is alſo falſe and ridiculous : And even I may ſay, that a Man of ſevere good Manners, on certain Regards, who has paſs’d his Life in Venice, is to be more valued than another Man of the like Character, that has been educated in the moſt reformed City : and the Reaſon is, becauſe the Firſt has been put to the Tryal, in theſe particu lar Reſpects, of engaging and vanquiſhing the moſt dangerous and frequent Temptations. Behdes, ' tis the moſt improbable Thing in the World , that ( unleſs a Man is depriv'd of his Senſes) be can hate a Venetian as a Venetian ; a Frenchman as a Frenchman ; and so of all the . 1

• Gli Oltramontani hanno il Chervello nella Schina, e

gli Icaliani l'hanno nel Capo. Reſt xxii To the READER. Rest of the Inhabitants of the Earth . Men are not valuable, or deſpicable, but by their per Sonal Qualities : I have never ſaid any Thing that is incompatible with the Encomiums, which I could make with Pleaſure upon the excellent Men that Venice has often produc'd , and does ſtill produce every Day. The Names of thoſe that are not unknown to me, would increaſe this Volume : but I can't forbear Saying here that the moſt vertuous, and noble Sylveſtre Valier , who was elefted Doge when I was tbere in 1694, is the Man I ever ſaw , or beard of, who en joy'd amongſt his Patriots , the moſt univerſal Eſteem , Love, Reſpect, and Applauſe, as being above all Praiſes. And ſince this Mention of a Doge doth preſent me the Opportunity of adding a Word, I muſt adviſe here a certain Critick , that he was extreamly miſtaken, when he thought that lome Particulars which I have related of the Dignity, or Office of the Dege of Venice, were in any manner reflecting on the Honour of the Republick : he mightrather think the Con trary, and conſider that if ſome Men brought up from their Infancy, under the Notions of a Diſpotick and Unlimited Power, ( according to which another Man, at their Head, may arbi trarily diſpoſe of their Poleſions, Families, and Lives, &c. ) the Venetians have other Prin ciples. The Authors of the Journal of Trevoux, have been miſinform’d concerning another fact , of which I ſhall take Notice here , ſince I have an opportunity of doing it. I declare that the Book To the READER. XXIIL Book which they mention, Page 323 , of their Third Volume, and which is attributed to me, as they ſay, by the general Confent , is none of my Works. I had Jore Share in the Edition, that was made of that Rhapſody; and perhaps it will be Proper for me to declare in another Place how the Tbing happen'd ; but in the mean Time, I ſtill ſay , that I am not the Author of that Book. It contaius fomeFacts, that I would neither deny, nor afirm ; and which alſo are not worth any Inquiry. I find ſeveral Things in it tbat are true, but which were not necelary to be mention'd : and I could make two or three Volumes of remarkable. Particulars that ought to be inſerted in it , ſeeing the Project of the Author. I mall take Notice of one, which is ſo much the more wortby of Obſervation, as few Perfors have any Knowledge of it, and are even prepofleſs’d of the Contrary : And that is , that King James II, was not inſtall’d in the Royalty, on his Coronation - Day, after the Manner of his Proteſtant Predeceſſors. The Delicacy of bis Conſcience, and the Dehgus he had then in View , obliged him to change the Form of the Ceremo nies : So that his M , neither receiv'd the Com munion, nor took the uſual Oaths and Engage ments. Every one ſees the diverſe Conſequences of this Matter of † Fact ; and eſpecially how ſome miſinformed Writers have inconfiderately † ( soon after the Coronation, an exaef Hiſtory, or Account of that Ceremony was printed, and diſtributed to many Perſons of Rank , by the King's Special Order ; but , I think , never fold . I have shefe Particulars from that authentick Book. inſinuated xxiv To the READER. infinuated that this Prince, (who acted ſincerely, according to his Religious Principles, ) bad Vio lated his ſolemn Promiſe. (IV. ) This is the place where I deſign'd to entertain my Reader for ſome Time, with cere tain Pallages of theRelation that D. Bernard de Montfaucon (a Benedictin Monk ) has pube liſh'd of his Travels in Italy , under the Title of Diarium , & c. But it is impoſſible to give even an Abſtract of the Things thatIhave prepared, in theſe apreſent Volumes , which are already Swell'd to a larger Bulk than they ought to be. My Deſign was not to undertake a general Cri ticiſm of the Diarium ; a Work of too great aa Length , and that would agree with few Readers. Iſhall even be ( hort upon ſome ſmall Matters about which that Author has thought fit to conteſt, though after a tacite Manner. But ſince he makes a Shew of a Diſertation, with a Sort of Oftentation, to the Eyes of the † Turba Eruditorum , whom he pretends to inform after a deciſve Manner, concerning that famous Ma nuſcript which is kept ſo preciouſly in the Trea ſury of St. Mark , I dare Promiſe to fhew very plainly, not only that the various Proofs that are cited by that so learned Man, to contra dict me, are by no means conclufve : but alſo, that in the Endeavours he has made to reſtore the Reputation of this diſcredited , and pe riſh'd Relick , his Zeal has made him * advance * + See the Diarium , Pag. 56. lin. 4. * See bereunder , Vol. II. Pag. 596. and the Word Montfaucon, in the table. Maxims, To the READER, XXV 20 1 ero rd tle EX Maxims, Suppoſitions, and Facts not to be main tain'd ; and even contradictory to his own Prin ciples. And as I have formerly applied my ſelf with Care , to ſearch after thoſe Things which have been the Occaſion of bis Publiſhing a Volume by the Title of Palæographia Græca, I ſhall communicate fome Obſervations upon that Book, that I bope may give ſome Satisfaction to thoſe who fancy this Study to be really of great Uſe. He of wbom we have already Spoken , who writes ( or did write not long ago ) la ſuite des Nouvelles de la Republique des Lettres, ( of which the Famous Mr. Bayle was the firſt Contriver ;) and who always has fought after every Opportunity of diſobliging, by a miſerable Return t of Revenge, a Perſon which never gave him the leaſt Offence whatſoever ; That Writer, 1 ſay, will clearly ſee, in our Remarks, on the Diarium Italicum , the ill Succeſs of the Deſign he bad , when , in giving an Extract of that Book, be affected to Advertiſe the Publick for thoſe that read bis Nouvelles) that I was the Pero ſon whom Father Montfaucon attack'd and con tradicted : for truly, this Father points at me, without mentioning my Name. 1 1

1. It would not be very advantagious , ' either for him,

of other Perſons whom he knows, if one ſhould oblige him to explain the Reaſon of his ill Humour, &c. Si quis occer taffit malum Carmen, fivecondidiffet quod infamiam facit, five Flagitium alteri, capitale efto, faid heretofore che Laws of the Twelve Tables : ' They pronounced Sentence of D- ath , a gainſt theſe sorts of Incendiaries, as well as agaiaft others. b The ,

ххуі To the READER. The Same Writer of the ſaid Nouvelles , will acknowledge, that the Condact he has uſed upon this Occahon, only Proves that he did not underſtand theſe Matters. If he had under Stood 'em , be would perhaps have turn'd his Reflections, upon the falſe Arguments of Father Montfaucon, and not againſt me. Equitable Readers will conſider then, that no Concluſions ought ever to be drawn from the ſatyrical Paf Sages of the Writer of this Journal , againſt the Perfons whom he takes the Liberty to ex poſe in it, after a diſadvantagious Manner. His Maxim is, when he is in the Pulpit, not to do to others what he would not have others do to himſelf, according to the Precept of the Goſpel : be ought then never to forget the ſeveral Things which he Complains of in bis Remonſtrance ( after a very lamentable Manner ) to his Su periors, when he demands Juſtice of ' em , againſt an Author of a certain Writing, in which he pretends, that an ill Character is given of bis wronged Perſon. ( V.) I have alſo been told of two other Books, in which ſome Pallages in my Relation are contradicted. In one of 'em , which is inti tuled, Memoirs de Florence, de Modene, & de Parme ( or fomething like) the Author, fay they, excepts againſt what I have written con cerning the Church call’d San Pietro in Grado, between Piſa 'and Leghorne ; and the Things that I have related about that Matter. He alſo pretends , againſt me , that the Tower of Pira ' was made leaning on purpoſe ; becauſe, ſays

7 To the READER. ҳхүні ſays he , the Stories are upon an Horizontal Plan : But be advances what he has never ſeen , and what is not ſo ; for I have view'd the Thing at two different Times. The Reader may ſee what I have written of theſe two Ar ticles, in the Second Volume of this Edition (pag. 263 , &c. and pag. 260 :) This Writer conceals his Name. They have communicated to me a Paſage of his Book which is fo much the more ſingular , as the Author is a good Catholick, andgreat Friend to the Monks. Let us inſert here that Curioſity, to ſhew him the Value we ſet upon bis fair Ingenuity; and how far we are, by doing ſo, from any revenging for his Criticiſms. There are , ſays he , a great Number of Scholars in the Univerſity of Bo logna, as well Lay.men, as Prieſts of every Order; and it is for the Amuſement, or Die verſion of theſe Students, that there are at leaſt Twelve thouſand Filles de joye, ( Whores) enrolld, and regiſter'd in the Book of their Society : without reckoning the other ob liging Girls in great Number, who will not have their Names inſerted in the Catalogue, I place, adds he , the Religious Order , and Friar Students among thoſe for whom the Diverſion of Women is PREPARED, tho' the Thing is not approved of by his Holi neſs's Vicars, &c. ) (VI. ) The other Book contains, as I hear, a Relation of what the cluthor has been able to obſerve, in his paffing through ſome Provin ces, or States of Germany. This learned Man having $ $ b 2 Xxviii To the READER: having an Occaſion to mention ſomewhere the Eleven thouſand Virgins, he ſays that we ought to believe the Hiſtory of 'em ; and that he ve rily believes it , tho it appears to him to be a little puzzling, f but he cannot fancy, that the good honest Prieſts of Verona, Men of great Learning, be ſo ſimple as to carry in Proceſion the Alinine-Relick which I mention'd (Vol. I. F. 199. ) tho' there is nothing more certain. His Zeal for the Church of Rome, of which he is a devout Member, has rais’d in him an Indigns tion at our expoſing the Ridiculouſneſs of this fine Story, and that of the Worſhip which is paid with great Ceremonies, to the skin and Bones of. this Four-footed Saint, who ſo gravely and mi raculouſly tranſported himſelf from Jeruſalem to Verona : and in this Palion ( as he takes Care 3

• There were , ſay-they, Eleven thouſand and Eleven ;

but they commonly ſay, Éleven thouſand for Shortneſs, as we ſay the Septuagint, for the Seventy two Interpreters. + This Author doch not remember the numberleſs curious Hiſtories of this Nature, which , however, he has certainly read in the Golden Legends of the Biſhop of Gennes, Jacobus Voragine : in the Book of Conformities between St. Francis and J C. in the Chriſtian Alcoran , by that Patriarch ; in the Pious Recreations, and in thoſe of Angelin Gazée : In the Goſpel of the Jacobins ; the Cordon du Rojaire ; the Proto-Evangelium ; the Micropresbuticon : the Mirabilia Mirabilium ; the Speculum Hi foriale ; the Collection by Ceſarius, and the Hiſtory of Grea gory de Tours ; the Gloffarium Latinitatis by Du Cange, upon the Feafts of Afles, and Fools ; & c. & c. He does not remember the Afs of Rimini; the Whale of St. Maclow ; the Deg of Corbie ; the Siſters Graſs-hoppers ; the Siſters Frogs ; and the Brother Wolf ; the Loin of Veal, that was eaten and made whole again ; Thomas Becket's Bird ; the Swallows and Mackerels of Mr. St. Bennet and of St. Francis, &c. &c. &c. ( The famous Srephen Paſquier Complains of placing Beaſts upon theAltars,in the Room of G. (Paſquier's Letters, Book X. Lett. I ) te To the READER. XXix 1 9 to hide his own Name, and to diſguiſe that of bis Bookfeller, ) he vents himſelf , as they tell me, in very bold and pious ill Language. Theſe Sorts of Writers that conceal themſelves, in ſpeaking againſt Truth and Decency, put me in Mind of what Barlæus (one of our beſt modern Poets) Says to them very elegantly. Si vis latere ut fordidiffimus Cimex ; Ut Aranea ; ut Locuſta vepribus denſis; Ut Coluber ; ut fub turribus malus Bubo, Latere perge ; dummodo hoc feras dici , Odiſſe Tenebras Optimos, Malos Lucem. I ſhould end here with the Apoſtrophe ofgood Barlæus, if in order to give the Character of our Critick in a material Point, Idid not think fit to tranſcribe fome of his own Words. f I have rather, Jays he, to give a Pious and conſenting Faith to what is told me , than to bear the Trouble of waiting for any Convictions, be fore I come to any Determination.- As this Pbiloſopher is Maſter of himſelf to believe any Thing that be pleaſes without Proof, we muſt not muchwonder ifhe denies alſo what he has a Mind to deny, without Reaſon. After his venting a bundance of Choler againſt thoſe that Laugh at certain Relicks, and rebuke ſeverely fome Super ftitious Practices, be recollects himſelf appearing † They affure me, that theſe are his own Words,in Part 2 p.82• This Book, jay chey , is written in a Style whoſe frequent and line gulør Irregularities are very diverting, as well as the greatest Part of the Obſervations in it . This Anonymoru Author carefully hid, takes bravely upon him to cenſure the Scaces- General, b 3 very XXX To the READER. gion, has 9 very thoughtful, and expects noleſs, Says be with Coma cern, than that they will not ſpare him ,when they come one Time or another to criticize upon his poor Book : But however pray fee, dear Reader, how he is now ſpared : Molto vale, e poco coſta, à male parole buona riſpoſta. If the Difference of what is commonly cald * Reli put three or four ſuch Writers into an ill Humour with me, and made ' em take ſome unjuſt Li berries in their little Satyrs, the World will give me Leave, I hope, to Say here, that I may find a great deal of Comfort, in baving a Number of grave and good Authors, that have been pleaſed publickly to honour me with + Some Approbation . I dare not bere give a Lift of all thoſe that cameto my Knowledge, zbo? I could U juftifie my Conduct in doing so by many Examples; andeven maintain it upon the Principle of a due Gra titude : but I cannot forbear taking Notice in parti cular, of the obliging Terms in which Mr. Addiſon has been pleas'd io expreſs himſelf, in the Preface to the ingenious and learned Relation that he has pub lifh'd . For if it is not honourable to be praiſed by thoſe that are not Praiſe-worthy themſelves, as faith our ** Balzac, ' tis alſo impoſible not to find a juſt Satisfe:Etion in the advantagious Teſtimonies , that are given us by Perſons of Wit , and Merit. See Vol II P. 460, and the 20 following. + I ſee that Monſieur du Freſnoy (whole very good Book is juſt come to us from beyond Sia) is one of the moſt favourable : tut I wish he had not made s miftakin Complaint of our Dealing with his Catholicks . To Spak freely , his beſt Way was to concur with us, and all bole ( fome of his own Sef?) who are endeavoura ing to diſcredit fucb Superfitions, rather than to countenance 'em. ( SeeMethode pour étudier l'Hiſtoire, par. Monf. Langlet du Freſnoy, Doctcur en Theol.A Bruxelles ; 1714 ). | Neque enim vereor ne jactantior videar , cùm de me a liorum judicia , non meum préf: 10 . (Plin . Sec. Epift. 23,L.9 )

• • Afoor Cicero : Ea ell trofetiò gucunda Laus que ab his pro.

ficiſcitur, qui ipſi in Lande vivine. ( Ad, M. Cal. Fam.L.6.) . THE 2

Xxxi Τ Η Ε PREFACE OF THE Τ Firſt FRENCH Edition . W THEN I undertook the Voyage de ſcrib'd in the following Letters, I reſolv'd to keep an exact Journal of the moſt remarkable Things that ſhould fall under my Obſervation ; and ſome of my Friends having engag'd me to communicate my Remarks to 'em , from time to time, my intended Journal was inſenſibly chang'd to Letters. I will not trouble the Reader with an Ac count of the Reaſons that oblige meto ſuffer this little Work to appear in Publick : But, perhaps, it will not be improper to inform him, why I thought fit to ſend it abroad in its native Dreſs. The Style of the Letters heing conciſe, free, and familiar, was alſo in all reſpects moſt ſuitable to my Deſign . When an Author undertakes to givea particularDe ſcription of the Subject on which he writes, he is obligʻd to acquaint his Reader with all its Circumſtances, and to omit nothing that relates to it . But there is a very wide Diffe rence between an exact Deſcription of a Coun þ try. xxxii To the READER. a try, and the Remarks which a Traveller may think fit to communicate in a Letter. So that if it be objected , that I have for got to mention ſeveral Things that deſery'd to be taken notice of , I ſhall content my ſelf with making this ſhort Reply, that, He who Promiſes nothing, cannot be juſtly accus'd of Forgetting any thing. There are fami liar Letters, in which I do not in the leaſt oblige my ſelf to inſert all that might be ſaid of the Places mention'd in 'em : Only I relate what I have ſeen or heard from Perſons of unqueſtion'd Credit; and, in ſhort, what I thought fit to mention. If it be further pretended, that I treat of ſome Things which were generally known before ; I anſwer, That if all thoſe who repeat the Obſervations of others muſt be condemn'd without Mercy, by the ſame Sentence moſt Books that are extant, muſt be doom'd to the Fire : For the new Diſcoveries of a whole Age would ſcarce fill a ſmall Volume. Every Man has aа different Way of expreſſing his Thoughts, and of repreſenting the Subjects of which he Treats ; which allows him the Privilege to move the Buſineſs again. But not to inſiſt on that Plea ; The Reader will find in theſe Let ters an Account of Things that happen'd in my Time, and of ſome late Alterations, which I cannot be ſuppos?d to have borrow'd from thoſe who wrote before me : So that the Bock, which I now offer to the Publick, may juſtly claim the Title of a New Work. And I'm con, fident The firſt Preface. Xxxi fident, it will be acknowledg‘d as ſuch, by all unprejudic'd Perſons, who ſhall conſider, ei ther, that I have added ſeveral new remark able Circumſtances ; or I have eſtabliſh'd Idei's that are more exact than thoſe I had receiv'd from the Relations of others ; or, that I give a quite different Account of the fame Subjects that they have repreſented, before I ſpoke of 'em . And tho' I could not wholly omit ſome Paſſages that had been formerly taken no tice of by other Authors, without ſpoiling the Connexion of the Parts of my Work, and de priving the future Traveller of Part of the Advantage which I hope he may receive from it ; yet, upon a careful Examination, it will be found that many of my Obſervations are really New in all Reſpects. I could not leave the Places thro ' which I paſt on the Road, without examining and en quiring into the moſt remarkable Things that were to be found in 'em , and without giv ing ſome Account of ' em . But ſince the main Deſign of our Voyage was to ſee Italy ; and ſinceI have chiefly inſiſted on Obſervations I made of that Country, 1I thought fit to give that Title to the whole Work, which agrees properly to the principal Part of it. Of thoſe who Trayel into Italy, ſome have made it almoſt their only Buſineſs to enquire after its Antiquities. Others have apply'd themſelves' wholly to the Study of Painting and Architecture. There are ſome who mind ed nothing but Libraries, and Cabinets of Cu rioſities. xxxiv The firft Preface. > 1 rioſities. And others ſpent their Time in via ſiting Churches and Relicks. But my Curio fity was more univerſal, and would not ſuffer me to confine my Enquiries to one Subject ; which gives my Letters the Advantage of Va riety, which, I hope , will not ſeem unplea fant to the generality of Readers. When I found my ſelf under aa Sort of Ne ceſſity to conſent to the Publication of this Work, I thought my ſelf oblig'd to make it uſeful to thoſe who ſhou'd afterwards under take the fame Voyage : And therefore I have inſerted ſeveral Paſſages in thoſe Letters,which I did not think fit to mention,when they were only directed to particular Friends : And, in Purſuance of the ſame Deſign, I have ſubjoin'd an Appendix attheEnd of the Book containing Advices, or Inſtructions to a Traveller. To ſatisfie the Deſires of thoſe with whom I entertain'd a Correſpondence during my Tra vels, I was forc'd to give ' em an Account of every Thing that I obſerv'd, without omitting even the leaſt conſiderable. But ſince the Cu riofity of mort Readers extends not ſo far, I was ſoon perſwaded to comply with choſe who advis'd me to cut off leveral Pallages in my Letters, which perhaps wou'd not bave been eſteem'd deſerving the Reader's Atten tion . For thoſe who have the Happineſs to be Maſters of an univerſal Wit, and of an e qually folid and nice Judgment, are capable of making Advantage of every Thing, and are uſually ſooner pleas'd with 'ein , than thoſe who The firſt Preface. XXXV Die IC 2 a EL who are leſs beholding to Nature for the libe ral Diſtribution of her Favours towards ' em . If it be ſtill urg'd , that I have left ſeveral Paſſages which might have been cut off with the reſt, I muſt beg Leave to cell thoſe pre tended Criticks, That they are very much mi Itaken if they imagine that nothing ought to be admitted into Works of this Nature, but what is great and important. Theſe are nei ther Sermons nor Negotiations of Ambaſſa dors , and that which might be juſly call d a Trifle in a Diſcourſe upon a lofty Subject, de ſerves another Title in ſuch a Relation as this , and eſpecially in a Letter. Beſides, there are ſome mean and ſeemingly trifling Things , which , for all their Meanneſs, are yet very pleaſant and diverting. The Publick has re ceiv'd fome Relations very favourably, which take Notice of the ſmalleſt Circumſtances, not forgetting even the signs of Tayerns; neither indeed is it just to oblige a Traveller to relate nothing but Prodigies." ' Tis true , he ought not to fill his Journal with inſipid Obſerva tions ; but there is hardly any Thing on which an exact and ingenious Perſon is not capable of making Reflections. I have obſervd , that thoſe who ſpeak of Italy are uſually full of Prejudices, in favour of that fine Country. Moſt Young Travel lers being perſuaded, that they ſhall find there an infinite Number of ſurprizing Rarities, go thither with a Reſolution to admire every Thing they meer i And all the Relations - ye have 11 2 0 14 1 Dit XXXVI The firſt Preface. 9 have of it , ſeem to have been deſign d for Panegyricks,. The Fame of thar Part of the World has been rais’d ſo high , and ſo ſtrongly eſtablish'd, that 'tis eſteem'd an un pardonable Crime to leſſen its Reputation . The Grandour , ſor Example, and the almoſt infinite Magnificence of the celebrated City of Rome, with the ancient Charms of Bajce and Capua, inſpire the Generality of Mankind with a Veneration for a few Pieces of Marble, which are the only Remainders of their Ru ines ; tho' 'tis certain, that thoſe Places, if we conſider 'em in their preſent Condition , are not at all preferable to a vaſt Number of others, which are not ſo much as taken no tice of in the World. But there is alſo ano ther Reaſon, which doubtleſs contributes very much to confirm Travellers in their Prejudi ces ; and that is , the uſual manner in which the Italians ſpeak of every Thing in their Country, ' Tis certain, that the People of that Nation have ſo much Fire in their Imagina » tion, and their Phraſes are naturally ſo ſtrong and ſignificative, that they are oftentimes apt to ſpeak of Things with too much Force. ' Tis true, they have many Soft and Gay, not to fay Apith and Childish Expreſſions; but when they change their Style, they are apt to run to the other Extream, and, on a ſudden , loſe themſelves in wild and unnatural Hyperboles. This Humour of the Italians by degrees in . fects thoſe Strangers who reſide among 'em , and in conjunction with their former Prejudi ces, und Tle firſt Preface. XXXV or Ol IM 09 Oil , 103 DO ces , prompts ' em to make long and lofty Dif courſes on the moſt inconſiderable Subjects. The Obſervation of this Fault in others, made me very careful to avoid falling into the ſame Errors : I examio'd Things coolly, and fuf fer'd thoſe perpetual Admirers to evaporate in ſublimeFigures, and Exclamations ofWon der , without regarding their pompous and ſuperlative Expreſſions. But tho I had not the Complaiſance to admire every Thing which they extolld , I hope I ſhall not have the Misfortune to be accus'd of being poſſets'd with a Prejudice, oppoſite to that which I blame in others ; for the equitable Reader will eaſily perceive, that I take Pleaſure to do Juſtice to thoſe Things, as well as to thoſe Perſons, which I think deſerve Praiſe. I wrote theſe Letters without conſulting the Authors who have treated of the ſame Subject before me : For beſides that the Hur ry of Travelling made ſuch a Deſign impracti cable, I could not have receiv'd much Bene fit by it, fince, as I intimated before , I in tended only to relate what I ſaw , or learn'u, without engaging in a particular and exact Deſcription of the Country. I thought fit to make this ingenuous Declaration, That if any Paſſages in this work be found to be in confiftent with the Relations of others, I may not be accus'd of taking Pleaſure to contra dict 'em ; for I only give a fincere and na tural Account of my own Obſervations, or of what I heard from Perſons of unſuſpected Credit, 200 bic sli ins C! 1 JS 10 1 adi Clin 1 XXXVİ The forf Preface. Credit, without the leaſt Deſign to offend any Man whatſoever. I hope every candid Reader will make a Diſtinction between thoſe Things which I af firm poſitively, and thoſe which are uſherd in with a ' Tis ſaid ; tho ' even in theſe Caſes I have related nothing but what is grounded on the general Opinion, and was never contradi cted by any with whom I have had occaſion to converſe : For, after all , I would not be oblig'd to warrant the Truth of theſe com mon Reports, which very often prove to be common Lyes. To avoid the Confuſion occafion'd by the various length of † Leagues and Miles in Ger . many ; I uſually expreſs the Diſtance of Places by the Number of Hours that are commonly ſpent in Travelling between’em ; and if at any time I make uſe of the Word League, I under ſtand an Hour's Journey. The Italian Miles are generally known, and need no Explication ; only the Reader may take notice, That two Miles in Piedmont make almoſt Three, after the ordinary Way of reckoning ; and that the Miles of Lombardy are the ſhorteſt of all. I ſhall only add, That when I meaſure any Di fance by a certain number of Paces, I mean the Steps I uſually make in Walking. According to Mr. Cafimir's Calculation , the Italian Mile is Five thousand Rs. man Foot ; and the Engliſh Mile Five Thouſand four Hundred and fifiy four. According to the Calculation of Mr. Picard ( of the Academy of Sciences ) * Degree contains Twenty great French Leagues, and Leagues at Sea : Tweenty five Common Leagues : and Twenty eight Pariſien Leagues and a Quarter : Sixty thorce Florence Miles and រ; and Tireeſcore and thirteen Engliſh Miles and to This Xxxix This PREFACE was added to the Firſt , in the Third French Edition of theſe Let TERS, in 1698. . S pag. 218,65 EVERAL Perfons to whom I commu- The following nicated the Intention I had to inlarge out Pagesof taken the Twe this New Edition, being of Opinion, laft French that, as my Reflections had appear’d de- Editions , had been forgot in fective, in reſpect of what they call Polithe Englith, ticks , and the Government of thoſe States by inadverten thro' which I have travelled ; and that 109. (See Voll . have ſcarce taken any particular Notice of the Libraries, nor of the Manners and Cu ſtoms of the People ; they therefore thought it wou'd not be amiſs to inſert feveral of thofė Things in thoſe Additions. However, the Reader finding , that notwithſtanding this Advice feernd very reafonable , I have not much follow'd the fame, will doubtiefs expect that I ſhould ſay fomething here in Juſtifica tion of my Conduct. To obſerve in general, that a State is Mo narchical or Democratical, that a Prince has ſuch or ſuch Prerogatives, that there are in the Republick a certain Number of Councils, compos'd of certain Perſons, & c. this, with out any further Particulars, is flat, infipid , and uſeleſs, a a xi The ſecond Preface. 9 . a uſeleſs , when one ſpeaks of neighbouring

and conſequently known Countries . And to give Account of the ſecret Things, one muſt make it his particular Buſineſs, and en deavour to repreſent all Things exaâly , as Monſieur Amelot, for Example, has deſcrib'd the Government of Venice. But doubtleſs, a Man who travels through forty or fifty dif ferent States , in twelve or fifteen Months time, has neither Time nor Conveniency to undertake ſuch a Task ; and it would be very unjuſt to exact ſuch a Thing from him. A Stranger ought not , nor is not able to dive into the Maxims and Intereſts of Princes, or the myſterious Intrigues of the Miniſtry , be cauſe he can very ſeldom , if ever, meet with an Acquaintance that is able or willing to give him a right Information of thoſe ſecret Things. A Traveller has aa thouſand other Things upon his Hands, and has not the hun dredth Part of the Time requir'd for ſuch an Enterprize. I know how it hath happen'd to ſeveral Perſons, who affecting to be Politicians, in that regard , have precipitarely deliver'd the chimerical Speculations which they have cre dulouſly taken upon Report. We muſt then leave ſuch Penetrations to thoſe who have Time and Conveniency to ſearch into Secrets

as for Example , to Ambaſſadors, and other publick Miniſters, who reſide in the Places, ſend their Spies , wheedle fome, and bribe o thers with Money . It is , in my Opinion , very imprudent to meddle with ſuch Things, and rún 4 The ſecond Preface. xli hogy ni * foſſe vero, 1 0.1 run the Riſque of ſaying nothing; but * falſe, * Se questo or uncertain . The World then cannot expect but little, non lo fareb be il Popolo. upon this sort of Politicks, from thoſe who travel as we did. But it is true, that in the Opportunity which preſents it ſelf to ' em in che Courts of Princes, to obſerve certain Cir cumſtances, and even , ſometimes, new and ſingular Adventures, they may make Uſe of theſe Sorts of Things, by the skilful and ju dicious Applications , which they may make of 'em. But thoſe Strokes, that ought to be very delicate, are not always perceiv'd ; and as every body does not ſee 'em , it often hap pens, that thoſe whomwe had in View , in our ſecret Cenſure, either do not really feel any Thing of what touches ' em ; or elſe , they make as if they did not perceive it ; ſo that one may ſay, in both Reſpects, that Narratur Fabula ſurdo, witneſs the New Telemachus. And one may even ſay , that theſe Reflections, notwithſtanding the Dexte rity of him that makes 'em, irritating thoſe that are concern'd in 'em, become frequently more hurtful than they are profitable. I leave it to the underſtanding Perſons to judge of the feveral Things they will meet with in theſe Letters, concerning this Sort of Political Re flections. . 2 + e G o 21 C I will here,add by the By, that it is a very great Error in Abundance of Perſona, to imagine that thoſe that lead a private Life, с ought xlii The ſecond Preface. ought never to concern themſelves with the publick Affairs of their Country. Every one ought to act more or leſs, and to contribute according to his Power, towards the general Good, in his Sphere and Condition. Private Perſons have no other Way but that of Re queſt, and Repreſentation, (unleſs they love that of Flight better) but it is lawful for 'em to ſpeak , either by Petitions, or by Advice : and if what they ſay, be reaſonable , they ought to hearken to it : for it is an Axiom of the natural Right, among all Natiops -in the World , that Quod omnes tangit ab Omni bus tractari debet. Whoever has Right to the Sun, and the Air, whether he be an Hermite, or a Miniſter of State, has alſo Right to uſe his Endeavours to ſupport the Publick Good, as being one of the Members of the Body : ' Tis his Duty to do ſo, for his own juſt Inte reſt. Peace and Warare the Affairs of every Citizen , as well as of thoſe who are at the Helm of Government. The Fleets are his Fleets, and the Armies are his Armies , ſince he contributes towards 'em ; and ſince upon their good or ill Succeſs, depends either his Ruin or Proſperity : If the Prince's Ear ought to be open to hear either his Complaints, or his Evidences, or his Diſcoveries, it is reaſo nable it ſhould alſo be to his good Counſel ; and then Politicks, and Religion , that is to fay, what regards the Tranquillity of the pre ſent Life, and the Happiness of the Life here after, are the two great Employments of the Mind The ſecond Preface. xliii 1 AP Mind of thoſe that are wiſe. Men paſs their Days lameotably in the Search after Things which are vain , ( how fine ſoever their Ap pearance may be, ) and let alone thoſe that are neceſſary . I ſhall here take notice of another Raſhneſs, of which many Travellers are guilty : they frequently preſume without any Examination , or ſufficient Information, to aſcertain the Re venues of Princes ; after they have rid Poſt through ſome part of their Dominions. To pretend to decide ſuch Things, when there is not the leaſt Probability that one could have informed himſelf of them, is to love rather to be heard by ſimple and ignorant People, than to acquire the Approbation of ſenſible Men. The Libraries are not ſo inacceſſible as the Cloſets of Kings and Privy Councils ; for they are commonly Publick ; but yet they do not expoſe all their Rarities to the View of every All Manuſcripts are not to be ſeen by all Comers : And they often refuſe, particu larly in Italy, or at leaſt fhun to ſhow a Tra. veller, ( if he has not a very ſtrong Recom mendation, ) thoſe Things from which they believe any Advantage may be drawn againſt the Roman Religion . I have endeavour'd two ſeveral Times to ſee an Anaſtaſius which is cer. tainly in the Library of St. Ambroſius aţ Milan, and wherein I know is to be found the Hi ſtory of Pope Joan. Buthaving been obligd to anſwer to the Queſtion, Quid fentis de fide Catholica ? one. . 기 Ć C 2 xliy The ſecond Preface. Catholica ? that is to ſay , of wbat Religion are you ? or rather, not having anſwer'd any Thing, they told me, that that Manuſcript was not to be teen. If one therefore would make ſome Diſcoveries, or draw ſome curious Col lections from the Manuſcripts that are in the Libraries, he wants Time and Conveniences that thoſe who Travel , as it appears by the Date of my Letters that I have done, cannot have. He muſt have a great deal of Lea ſure ; he muſt get a particular Acquaintance with the Library -keeper; he muſt not be ſuſpected by him, eſpecially if Matters of Re ligion be in queſtion ; and beſides , he muſt meet with a true Library- keeper, that is to ſay, with an officious and learned Man ; where as, commonly, if he ſtays but a little while, he is received at firſt by a Sort of Door keeper, who hath neither Underſtanding, nor any particular Knowledge of the Library; and who is always Frowning and Gaping till he has received the Teſtons , or the Julio's that are uſually given him . Who ſhall impartially conſider this, will , I hope , in ſomemeaſure be contented with what I have been able to give him, and will not upbraid me with Re proaches, which would be the more unjuſt, becauſe if I have made no better Advantage of the Libraries which I have ſeen , I am the greateſt Loſer. Neither will they draw an unreaſonable Conſequence from the little Knowledge that I cou'd have acquir'd of them , againſt the other Obſervations which a 3 I have The ſecond Preface. xlv any Was ale som the nces the anch ' Les Cance th ER 1 mu? here "Lily 2001 V I have made, and of which I ſpeak poſitively, as if I could not be better inform'd of one Thing than of another. There are ſome Things that muſt be lought after to know them, and that, with Care and Pains ; there are ſome that muſt be enquir'd after , but that are eaſily found ; and there are others, that offer themſelves to View, ſo that one has no other Trouble than to look upon them. 'Tis true, that I have ſcarce pry'd into the firſt , for want of Time , and other requiſite Means; but it was eaſie for me to come to the Know ledge of ſeveral of the others ; and above all, to conſider and to deſcribe what has pre ſented it ſelf to my View. For this Reaſon I carefully made a Diſtinction in the Begin ing of this Book, between a Deſcription and a Relation . As to what relates to the Manners and Cuſtoms of People, 'tis plain , that if one deſigns to do them Juſtice, and to ſpeak no thing of them but the Truth, he muſt have had much Converſation with thoſe of whom he undertakes to ſpeak ; and above all , if he intends to deſcend to Particulars. That which has made mevery circumſpect, and very cloſe upon this Point , is the ill Judgment that I ſee many people have made in the Relations they have publiſh'd. For example , If one ſhould ask Dr. Sprat, ( Biſhop of Rocheſter, ) about what Sorbiere hath ſaid of the Manners of the Engliſh, and of ſeveral other Things which that Traveller hath obſerv'd in Eng land, 200 Elt these al sure FC 1 II alle xlvi The ſecond Preface. 2 a land, he would ſay, that that Man fancies Chimera's, and knows not moſt times what he ſays. And if one ſhould ask M.M. what + In his Sur- he thinks of what D. P. Heylin hath † writ vey of France. of the Cuſtoms of the French, he would have ſtill a leſs Eſteem of him than the Dr. had of the other. To ſpeak ſincerely, 'tis pity that that Man , who is otherwiſe Learned, and deſerves good Eſteem , ſhould be ſo blinded with innate Prejudice againſt the French, that he conceives but wrong Notions of ' em. He judges of every Thing that is done in France by what he finds upon his Arrival at Diepe : and his Antipathy being conſtantly working on him , like a burning and raging Fever, one may ſee that it is againſt his Nature, when he is forced to ſpeak well even of thoſe who have done him Kindneſſes , and that he is in his Element, when in general , and ac cording to his Cuſtom , he ſpeaks ill of all. I never met with any Man ſo terrible upon this Point, tho'at the ſame time , I have ſeen few People but who are ſick of the ſame Di ftemper when they come to ſpeak of the Man ners and Cuſtoms of Foreign Nations. I dare ſay, that the Silence which I have almoſt al ways obſerved upon this point, does not pro ceed from the Fear I have had of the ill Ef fects of ' my Prejudice, being, I believe, as much upon my Guard, as any Man can be, againſt thar Enemy of Reaſon and Truth ; and my Exile having on the other Hand made me fenſible enough , that I have no parti cular The ſecond Preface. xlvii cular Country here below : But I thought, that not having had Time enough to conſis der thoſe Sorts of Things attentively, I could not undertake to ſpeak much of them with out running the Riſque of falling into many Miſtakes. I am alſo upbraided with other Neglects. I have ſcarce met with any Body but who has told me , that I had forgot ſomething very remarkable ; or that I have ſpoke very indif ferently of fome Things that deſerved great Praiſes. I anſwer'd thoſe People, Firſt, that I had forgot nothing at all , ſeeing I had not undertaken any Deſcription , as I have already given notice enough : And, Secondly, I have repreſented to them, that it was none of my Fault if their Fancy was ſo deprav'd as to look upon common Things as if they were ſo many Wonders. Thus, when a German of Frankfort ſeem'd to me to be very much ſurprized, that I had taken no Notice of the new Lutheran Church there , and that a Swiſs of Bern teſti fied as great a Surprize, that I had not made the leaſt Mention of the Sculptures on the Portal of the great Church there, ſo much admir'd by theThirteen - Cantons ; I told the Firſt, that if I had been obliged to mention all the Edifices that I had ſeen , which much ſur palled the Lutheran Church at Frankfort, both in Largeneſs and Magnificence, I muſt have enlarg’d my Book to ſeveral Volumes : And I deſir'd the other to conſider, that thoſe Scul ptures that the common People of Switzer land a xviii . ) The ſecond Preface? a laxd extol ſo much , were but in very little Efteem with People who underſtand theſe Things. Every one commonly has a good Opinion of what is his own, and of what he has at Home; of what he has admir'd , or heard to be admir'd from his Infancy : Or, one praiſes that which he knows to be moſt de ſerving , without informing himſelf if there be any other Thing more Praiſe-worthy, than what he knows. Thus, a Clown, who has never been out of his poor Cottage, fancies that the old ruin's Caſtle of the Lord of the Mannor, and the old Tapeſtry which has hung there an hundred and fifty Years, in ſpite of Rats and Spiders, are the fineſt Things in the World. It is not the ſame with a Man who hath been a little abroad. When one has ſeen many Things of the fame Nature : he takes no notice of ſome of them , and ſpeaks of others by the juſt Compariſon he makes of them to gether. If I ſhould praiſe the Churches of Ant werp ſo very much, where ſhould I find Terms for thoſe of Rome and Naples 2 One muſt there fore diſtribute Praiſes according to the diffe rent Merit : He who never ſaw a Steeple but that of his own Village, muſt not ſay , that it is the higheſt in the whole World. Some People have alſo ſaid, that there are many Things in this Relation, which, accor ding to their Judgment, are not ſo important as to deſerve to be mention'd. I thought I had ſaid enough in the Preface, that precedes this, to prevent this Objection ; but I deſire the The ſecond Preface. xlix > the Reader to read what I have further added, to remove theſe Cenſures, in my Letter to Mr. Waring at the End of the Firit Volume. Moſt of the young Gentlemen who are ſent by their Parents into Italy , are Children who think more of Eating, Piaying, and Sleeping, than to enquire much about Rarities. Thoſe who are of that Humour need no other Ad rice but this, to carry good Wine, a Bed, and Cards along with them ; or rather, not to go from Home, where they can have all thoſe Things more conveniently than in any other Place. But there are ſome others who are of à much different Diſpoſition, who love to in ſtruct themſelves carefully of every thing ; and who paſſionately ſeek after all poſſible Means for their Inſtruction , and greedily embrace the ſame, when found. The Object ſtirs up their firſt Deſire, and excites ſuch a Curioſity in their Mind, that they would willingly ſwal low down all the Books that treat of Towns, and other places which they viſits to be the more and exactly inform’d of them. ' Tis for their Sake, that I have added Abundance of Things in this new Edition ; and particularly in the Advices which I had already given to Travellers ; hoping that thoſe Things will be Satisfactory to them, and ſave them a great deal of Time. I don't believe it neceſſary to enlarge my ſelf very much here, to give the Reader an Accountof ſeveral new Pieces, which he may find at the End of theſe Volumes. The Diviſion d of li The ſecond Preface. And after the Year 855 . JOANNES. INe non computatur , quia Fæmina fuit . BENEDICTUS Tertius , & c . An Engliſh Divine of extraordinary Learn, ing and Merit, hath lately writ a Book , which is not yet printed, to prove that there was a Female Pope , wherein be makes Uſe of the Strength of this Teſtimony admirably well; and makes it appear , that thoſe belonging to that Monaſtery bad a frequent and intimate Commerce, with Rome

and that thoſe words which

i bave juſt not quoted after him , were Regiſtred at the ſame Time ſpecified by the Date. 1 1 As the Additions in theſe Two Volumes , havebeen made at ſeveral Times , we fee now it has happend through for. getfulneſs, that ſome few Matters , or Reficètions almoſt the fame, have been brought in ewice ; for which ſmall Mi Itake, we beg the Reader's Indulgence, and deſire him nog to take theſe two or three Kinds of Repeticions, as if they had been made with any Deſign And eſpecially that which concerns a Modern Author, in the Second Volume; Pages 22 , and 597 . Our juſt Regard for thoſe who are now publiſhing this preſent English Edition, is the Caule for which the French one is difer'de If in the mean time any Bookleücr beyond Sea pretended to have theſe new Additions tranſlated , ard printed , without communi c'ating to us 'sis Deſign, we think he shou'd ſee not long after, that be bad not will done for his own Intereft. A NEW Vol. I. VOYAGE ITALY. TO 01 To D. W. Efq; L E T T E R I. SIR, H OLLAND is a Country ſo near, and ſo well known to yours, that I ſhould , perhaps , have ſaid nothing of it, had not your expreſs Commands oblig'd meto it . In Compliance therefore with your Deſires, I will endeavour to give you an Idea of this uncommon Country ; with ſome particular Remarks concerning the Cities I ſhall have occa fion to ſee. But I muſt firſt tell you, that there are ſo many Things in Holland that deſerve to be feen by every curious Perſon , and can hardly be ſeen any where elſe, that I think it impoſſible you ſhould decline making a Voyage thither. The Paſſage over is but ſhort,and you will have B & thou A New Voyage. Vol. I. ! a thouſand Opportunities to render it convenient. Therefore, being perſuaded , that you will not fail, one Day, to facisfy lo reafonable a Curiofi ty , I fall not entertain you fo largely as I might, with an Account of thoſe charming Provinces, wherein I have formerly, for ſome time , ſojourn'd . As we approach'd theſe Coaſts, we perceiv’d, even at the neareſt diſtance, the Tops of the Trees, and of the Steeples, as if they iſſu'd out of a Land ſunk under Water ; for Holland is uni verſally flat and low, as a continued Meadow. ' Tis cut into Canals and large Ditches, to re ceive and drain the Waters, which otherwiſe would make the Land too moiſt; and there are but few Places that can be plough’d . A Coun try like this is not naturally habitable ; but In duftry, conſtant Labour, and the Love of Pro fit, have brought it into ſuch a State, that there is not in the World, one ſo Rich, and ſo well * Puffendorf,peopled , proportionably to its Extent : * Some that Others pretend affirming , that thelittle Province of Holland Provinces to.alone, contains more than Two Millions and gether do not Five Hundred Thouſand Souls. contain more than Two Millions of Inhabitants. It is difficult for a private Perfon , and ope. cially for a Stranger, to be well informid of theſe kind of Things . See Voſſius. The United The Cities are, as it were † link'd together; Provinces have one City of the and we may ſay that they are all of a ſparkling firſt Rank,viz.Beauty . The more we conſider them, the more Amſterdam agreeable we find them. || Great Care is taken Above Twenty of the ſecond Rank, which maybe compar’d with the great Cities of France , after Paris. More than Thirty of the Third, which are equal to Parma ana Modena. Above Two Hundred great Boroughs, and more than Eight Hundred Villages. G.L. | There is no leſs Curioſity and Neatneſs in their Ships, than in their Houſes. This Cleanlineſs extends throughout : You may find it in the Stables, where the Cows Tails are ty'd up with a little Cord to the Roof, left they ſhould defile th Selves. They walk al, and ſcoure all the Vals, Moveables, and Urenfils in the Houſes. It would be well if they could waſha the Water it felf, which is, indeed , very thick and naſty in many Canals.

! а to ! 1.1 Vol. i. to ITALY 3 Tien SUB EON TEX LOUI to keep their Houſes neat and fine, both within and without, they waſh them, and paint the ve Dich ty Bricks over from time to time; ſo that they always look new . The Doors and the Winduws ming are commonly of hewn Stone or Marble ; the lom Inlide of the Shops , and lower Rooms, even with the common Tradeſmen, are alſo generally lined with fine ſquare Delft Tiles. All the Glaſs Windows ſhine like Cryſtal : Every Window dc hath its Shurters, which being uſually painted red or green , make altogether a Mixture most adui pleaſant to the Sight. The Streets are ſo clean, that the Women walk abroad in Slippers all the Year. The Ca nals are often adorn'd with two Rows of Trees, which make a delightful Shade, and a lovely Walk on each ſide of the Streets. This is, in Pro ſome meaſure, a general Idea, not only of the Cities, but alſo of the Towns and Villages ; for the ſame Order and Neatneſs is to be ſeen throughout. The moſt uſual way of Travelling, is by the Canals, and nothing can be more convenient. The Boats are drawn by Horſes, and go off at Ser Hours. You are ſeated as quietly in them as if you were at home, and ſheiter'd both from Rain and Wind : So that you may go from one Country to another almoſt without perceiving that you are out of the Houſe. When the Ca nals are frozen , the Skates and the Sledges ſerve inſtead of the Boats ; and this new way of Tra velling is a new Pleaſure. Thoſe who ſlide skilfully on Skates, will out- run the Poſt-Horſes, and even ſome will undertake to go a League in leſs than Ten Minutes. Thus you ſee how commodious the Canals are, but this is not the only Uſe : For they ſerve to drain the Waters ; and are alſo uſeful for Traffick, and the Carriage of thes C B2 4 A New Voyage. Vol.I. of Goods as well as Perſons. The Earth which they take out, raiſes the Banks, and makes the Ways more convenient for thoſe who travel on Foot ; they ſerve both for Incloſure and Orna ment. In ſome Places they have fome fort of Filh . Abundance of Thingsare naturally wanting in Holland : But Foreign Countries plentifully ſup. ply them with Corn, as well as Wines , and all the other Neceſſaries and Conveniencies of Life . All the World knows how far their Trade ex tends : And it may well be ſaid , that as it parta ly gave the original Strength to this State, fo té is ſtill its principal or enly Support. Every Man in Holland is a kind of Amphibious Crea ture , equally accuſtom'd both to Sea and Land .

• The Number I remember I have read in a good Author, That of veſſels, in this fole Province hath more Shipping than all The common 0 . the reit of Europe.

pinion , is < ficern'd so great, that it is thought to equal all the reſt of Europe together. Card . Bentivoglio. Puffendorfſaith thesame; and others have written, that i he United Provinces have more Ships than Houſes. I cannot think any person bath exactly calculated them, every one ſpeaks as he imagines, or hath beard, la that little beed is 10 de given to Diſcourſes of this Natures It is true , thar if, on one ſide, the Sea is the Cauſe of all the Riches of Holland, it muſt alſo be confeſs'd , that it hath ſometimes caus'd terrible Damages. It is ſtopp'd with Banks of Earth ; which they call Dams, and all Care imaginable is taken to maintain them . They have Mills to empty the Water, and uſe all imaginable Indu

• On the oth ftry to prevent Miſchief, or to remedy it when

of April 1420, it happens. Yet ſome places of theſe Banks are Tom 1421 , vid . often broken , and the Inundations have made Chronicon moſt furious Ravages. So that, with reſpect to Gerbr. One kundred floor. the * Sea, they may well uſe the Device of a . Find People were droion'da Dort, and thereabouts. 1446, Therewere Fifteen Pariſhas drowned , Seb. Munfter. Tise Sea carry'd away 121 Houſes of the Village of Scheveling, An. 1574. ( J. Parrival. ) At preſent the Church i's mar ske Sen, whereas formerly it wasin the midst of the village. Torch Vol. 1 . to ITALY. A 122 il . 21 re TE I. Torch invert. That which feeds me kills me. This is the fatal Miſchief of Holland, a dreadful In conveniency, of which all that can be ſaid is, That they labour to help it as much as they can ; but, after all, they can never reſtore the drown's Cities, nor the Lives of many Thou . ſands of Men , who have, from time to time, periſh'd by theſe Deluges. It is not without ſome Regret that I diſturb your former and more pleaſing Idea's ; but I fancy that, to comprehend Things well, we muſt know both what's for, and what's againſt them, This Defect is not accompany'd with many others .. ' Tis true, the Air is no where very good. Sometimes in the fairelt Weather it ſuddenly be comes cold , and this Unequality admits of no great Difference between the Summer and Win ter Cloaths. + The Impofitions are great, which t The Gabel partly cauſe the Dearth of Victuals : But the of Salt is the least conſidera . People of this Country, who are born under that ble; Salt coſts Yoke, and whom their great. Trade hath made but Two pence live at eaſe, ſcarce think of it. I confeſs I ſhould 9; Three-perce not long admire thoſe continu'd Meadowsof the Poundof fixteen Ounces. which Holland is compos’d : They ſeem fine The greatest enough for a few Hours, but one grows weary Impoſts are on of their perpetual Uniformity : And I am per Wine, Beer, fuaded the Variety of your Country of Kent and Comm. would pleaſe you better. We were at once ſurpriz'd and charm'd at the firſt thing which we obſery'd at our Arrival at Rotterdam . This City having this ſingular Qua lification , that many of its Canals are broad and deep enough to receive the greateſt Veſſels, no thing can be compar'd with the pleaſant Mixcure of Chimnies, Tops of Trees, and Streamers of Veikels. One is altoniſh'd at the Port to behold ſo beautiful a Confuſion ; and can hardly tell shether it be a Fleet, a City; or a Foreit ; or } 0 B 3 A New Voyage. Vol. I. ROTTER DAM. / rather fees what is ſeldom heard of, aMeeting of thoſe three things, the Sea , a City , and Land . Rotterdam is not reckon'd as one of the Cities of the Province call'd l'rincipal, becauſe it hath not been always in ſuch a flouri hing Condition as it is at preſent; but, without doubt, it ought to be eſteem'd the ſecond of the firſt Rank, whereas now it is but the firſt of the ſecond. Its Port is very commodious and fair , being always fill'd and encompaſs’d with Shipping, and its Trade increaſes daily. It is large, populous, rich , and pleaſant, and as I mention'a before, with few Exceptions. Since the Country is flat, I need not tell you that the Cities are ſo too. The Magazines for the Equipping of Ships, the Town -houſe, and that of the Bank, are very fine Structures. When we went to ſee the Glaſs-houſe, we found them at work on little enamell’d Bowls, and I know not how many Children's Baubles, with which they drive a great Trade amongſt the Savages. Alſo near this, we ſaw the curious Works in Paper of the Sieur Van Vliet ; as Ships, Palaces, and whole Landskips in a ſort of Baflo relievo, all , as they ſay , done and in- laid with the Point of a Pen knife. There are at * preſent two French Churches at Rotterdam ; which the Magiſtrates take a particu lar Care to ſee furniſh'd with Miniſters of exem plary Merit. It is certain, that this City is be come famous for its Learned Men, as well as for its Trade and Beauty. It is from hence we had that uſeful and eſteem'd Work, Les Nouvelles de la Republique des Lettres. I might even fay , a Work which is ready to be lamented, ſince the Indiſpoſition of the Author gives us reaſon to fear he will be no more able to apply himſelf to ſo painful an Undertaking ; I am inform’d, chat

• 1687 .

oli Vol. I. to ITALY in a eeting that Mr. Bafmage de Beauval intends to continue it. and He is endow'dwith a great deal of good Litera ture and extraordinary Wit, and all the Sagacity CH that is neceſſary to make a right Judgment of It Books. The brazen Statue of Eraſmus is in the Place They eraffed called the Great Bridge. This Statue is on a Pe- Wood, Anno deſtal of Marble, encompaſs’d with Rails of Iron .1540. Onein Paris Erafmus is in a Doctor's Habit, with a Book in Stone, Apno SA his Hand. Hard by, you may ſee the Houſe in 1557; and at last that of Tre which he was born ; it is very little, and the Brals , which following Diſtich is written on the Door. is to be Jeen at che preſent ) Anno 7 Adibus bis ortus, Mundum decoravit Eraſmus 1622• Artibus ingenuis, Religione, * Fide.

• Nicodemi

ca. Ship There are ſo many Opinions concerning the Time both of the Birth and Death of Eraſmus, that it has ſeem'd abſolutely impoflible to Monſieur Bayle, to decide ſo intricate a Con troverſy. Thoſe who made the Inſcriptions that are to be ſeen on the Pedeſtal of the above is mention’d Statue, tell us , that he was born October 28 , 1467. and ſeveral other Authors are of the fame Opinion. But notwithſtanding the Regard we ought to have to the Credit of this Inſcription, I muſt own that I am not con ches vinc'd by it , and perhaps I may, at another time, give you the Reaſons that make me queſtion I read it for its Authority in this point. The Epitaph at Ba veral times fil ( which , by the way, is falſely cited by ſeveral over, and com Perſons, tho it may be very eaſily read ) runs py'd it with thus , MORTVVS ÉST IIII. * EID. IVL. IAM Care. SEPTVAGENARIVS. AN. A CHRISTO * Inſtead of ID. or Idus, NATO M.D.XXXVI. This fam ſeptuagenarius is a looſe way of Expreſſion ; nordoIknow seethe whole that any Perſon has fix'd the Timemore particu- under, in the Epitaph bergan larly. However, ' tis certain this Illuſtrious Au- Art. of Bafil. chor Per 2 lite gi tips a 1623 be 57

i B. 4 . 8 A New Voyage Vol. I. thor was born at Rotterdam , and not at Turgaw , as ſome have written ; and ' tis no leſs certain , that he dy'd at Bafil, and not at Friburg, as Parri val affirms, after ſeveral others. Morconys aſſures us, tho' I know not upon what Authority, that 'twas Eraſmus who invented the Uſe of Turf. 'Tis at leaſt a Hundred Years ago ſince Julius Scaliger wrote, that Three hundred Years before, they burnt Turf in Holland ; and ' twou'd be a difficult Task to prove, that the Uſe of it was not yet earlier. Being, for ſome Reaſons, induc'd to go to a Village call'd Lekerkeck, three ſmall Leagues di ſtant from hence, upon the River Leck, I will impart to you three or four ſmall Curioſities I obfery'd there. The Lord of the Place told us, That the Sal mon Fiſhing,the Fifth part whereof only belongs to him, yielded him formerly Twenty thouſand Livres per Annum , and oft- times more. And that the Salmon having taken another Way, by de grees, that Revenue is ſo ſtrangely diminish'd, that for ſeveral Years it has ſcarcely defray'd the Charge of the Fishery ; ſo that that Gentle man would have given it over, if he had not been oblig'd to maintain his Right. Formerly alſo the Salmon ſwarm'd before Dort in ſuch Multitudes, that the Maid -Servants of that Ci. ty made their Bargains, according to the con mon Saying, not to be compell’d to eat it above twice a week ; buc at preſent they are rid of that Trouble. We went to ſee a Country- wonian there, who, laſt Year, was brought to bed of Six Sons: There were Four of ' em bapriz'd , and the eldeſt of ' em liv'd Four Months. This is very true. A Maid of the ſame Village carry'd a Mur, quet Seyen Years, without being diſcover'd. She 1 10. Vol . I. to ITALY. El Tiga She went always by the Name of La Bonté, by els cek, which Name ſhe was mutter'd , and at preſent 3,25 7. fhe is a Servant in the Houſe of the Lord of that ways alors Place. priy,die Some Years ſince dy'd in this PlaceGerrit Ba e of To ftiaanſen, a Fiſherman ,who was Eight Foot high, ice for and weigh'd soo Pounds, tho' he was very lean . esbelai We were in his Houſe, the Doors whereof are mul ki very high, and where they ſhow'd us ſome of of two his Cloaths. Inſtead of entertaining you with an Account co go in. of the pretended Foundation of Roterdam by one aguas di Roterius, Son to a King of the Sicambri, men kele tion'd by Trithemius, in his Hiſtory ( I had almoſt riofrasi ſaid Romance) of the Origin of the Gauls ; I ſhall take this Occaſion to advertiſe you , once for the S all, that I'm refolvid to take no Norice of ſuch e bele uncertain and unatrefted Stories that may be hould juſtly rank'd among Fables. The Roter, or Rota Andliter, is a little River that falls into the Canals of by i Rotterdam ; and , doubtleſs, gives its Name to the minin City : But whether this River takes its Name defra from the pretended Roterius, or from ſome Town German that he had formerly built near this Place, is a rad Queſtion which I leave to be decided by thoſe armer who have either Leiſure or Inclination to exa i mine fuch Controverſies. I obſervd one Thing in this City , which is eus too ſingular to be forgotten.. The Tower of the great Church, which lean'd to one ſide , was ſet up ſtreight, as you may ſee by the In ſcription engrav's on Braſs, at the bottom of the Tower on the Infide. It is in Dutch, but I Smo lend it you In the Year 1651, the 25th of September, they began 10 open the Foundations of this Tower, and they z le drove in huge Piles round it, becauſe the ſaid Timer lean'd upon ibe great Nave of the Church, on the North , . . at C ca ridi was che in Engliſh. TK Eft comer ( h . 10 A New Voyage. Vol. I. Eaſt Side : They freighten'd it about Three Foot and a half, from the North - Eaſt to the South -Weft, and by this Means it became firm and upright : This was finiſh'd in the Year 1655, the 22d of April, by Ni cholas Jeremy Perſoons, Architect. ' Tis a high and maſly Tower : So that this nice and bold Undertaking was of very great Conſequence to thoſe people that dwelt near it. The great Steeple at Delft , which is pretty near the ſame Figure, leans alſo on one ſide : But I know not whether they would be wil ling to run the Hazard of the like Workman Thip : In that caſe , the Inhabitants towards whom the Tower leans, would do well to re move themſelves out of its reach . Dion Caſſius, in the Sixteenth Chapter of the Life of Tiberius, relates ſomethinglikeit, and that the Architect was ill rewarded for his Pains and Ingenuity, The Poſt-Hour obliges me to finiſh this Let ter : Be perſuaded , that I will omit nothing which I believe proper for your Satisfaction. And if my Leiſure will not always permit me to give you a particular Account of every thing, aſſure your ſelf, that whatever I write ſhall be without Partiality, and founded upon careful Information . I am, Rotterdam, O&ob. 6. 1687. New Stile . SIR, Yours, &c. LET BEL3 Vol 11 . I. to ITALY To L E T T E R II. TV 756 WE SIR, VE came from Ratterdam to Delft, in leſs DELFT Delft than two Hours, by the Rotterdam Boat. Built Anno 29 Delft holds the third Rank in the Aſſembly of the 1075 ,byGod. . "Statesof Holland. I will give you no other De- freysbe Crook Back Duke of Cont ſcription of it than what I have told you of the Lorrain . to : Cities in general, the Idea of which you i luft s always call to mind. They ſhew'd us the Tomb 5 l of Prince William , who was * Affaffinated in this * By Balthaſar City. I cannot forbear ſending you the Epitaph Gerard, or Se of that Great Prince ; the Reſtorer of Religion Franche in the Low - Countries, and the Founder of theRe- Comte,Anno publick : And I do it ſo much the more wil- 1584. The lingly, becauſe this Monumental Inſcription is Prince was Tears old . ſeldom to be met with, in the Relations that have been given of this Country ; which, per haps, proceeds from the Difficulty of reading it. The Tomb, worthy of that Hero, is in the new Church. D. 0. M. 52 / Eterna Memoria GULIELMI NASSOVII Supremi Auraufionenfium Principis Patria Patris : Qui Belgii Fortunis fuas poft habuit , Et ſuorum. Validiſſimos Exercilus Ære plurimum privato, Bis conſcripſit, bis induxit. Ordinum Auſpiciis Hifpanic Tyrannidem propulit, Veræ Religionis Cultum , avitas Patriæ Leges. Revocavit, Reftituit. Ipſam 12 A New Voyage Vol. I. Ipfam denique Libertatem tantum non allertam MAURITIO PRINCIPI Paternæ virtutis Hæredi, Filio Stabiliendam reliquit. Herois verè pii, prudentis, invikti, Quem Philip II. Hifp. Rex , Ille Europe Timor, timuit ; Non domuit, non terruit : Sed impio Percuffore , Fraude nefanda fuftulit. Federat. Belg . Provinc. Perenni Memorie Monum . P. C. ' The Arſenal and the Town-Houſe are the prin You may alſo cipal Buildings which they ſhow to Strangers. Tee the Palace Itis but a good League from Delft to the Hague, of the State following the Courſe of the Canal. You país holder, the Grand Place, not far from Reſwick , and Voorburg , which and the great are very pleaſant Villages , and all along you Hoſpital, with meer with Houſes of Pleaſure, Walks, and de the Garden. lightful Gardens. We ſcarce meet with any Hiſtorian that men tions the City of Delft, without ſpeaking alſo , with Admiration, of what was obſerv'd not very long ago there, of two Storks ( the Male and the Female, ) who, after many fruitleſs Endeavours to ſave their young ones that were in their Neft on the Top of a Chimney, the Houſe being on Fire, reſolv'd at laſt to cover them with their own Bodies, tho' with the Hazard of their Lives, even to defend ' em from the Flames, or elſe to periſh altogether. I could eaſily main tain the Probability of this unqueſtionable Fact, by a great many other well attefted ones, that I have metwith in Hiſtory ; but I ſhall only here take Notice oftwo Things : The one is, Thac from thence came the leadpzinde Nóvor, which Ari stophanes ſpeaks of, as alſo the Aromencépgar. The other is, That the Word . Stork, in the Holy Lan Vol. I. to ITALY 13 Language, is deriv'd from one of thofe that fig nify Benignity, Kindness, Mercy, as being the true Characters of that Creature.. St. Ambroſe, and all the Naturaliſts as well as he, call it Pia Avis. Tho'the Hague has ſome of the Privileges of HAGUE. the Cities, yet it is put in the Rank of the Boroughs, becauſe it is not walld, and fends no Deputies to the Aſſembly of the States General : Yet we may ſay, that, in reſpect of its Large neſs and Beauty, it deſerves as much Honouras the beſt Cities.

• The Prince of Orange reſides here, ( 1687 ) * The late King and keeps a very fine Court. Here the States of England.

General | Aſſemble , and the Ambaſſadors, and † You may fee the Place of other Miniſters of Foreign Princes, have their this Allembly, Reſidence. The People are more polite and and the other fociable than in other Places : The Coaches are Hall, where numerous : The Houſes and Walks are very the States of Holland meet, fine, and the Air is very good. In a word, ' tis moſt certain that the Hague is an inchanting Place, The Wood is one of its chief Orna ments : For, as I told you, it tires one to ſee The Sieur Ref nothing but Meadows ; and therefore to walk nerus, Ger in a Wood in Holland , gives a double Sa- tleman of Zea tisfaction. You have alſo the Walk by the land, who dwells at the Sea- ſide to the Village of Scheveling, whither Hague, baths harh you may go in Half an Hour, by a Itrait Path- a Cabinet, way cut croſs the Downs. There is a good where, among Fiſhery at Scheveling. There you may ſee a 'sher Things, are a great Chariot with Wheels and Sails, which the Wind number ofvery drives by the Sea - ſhore, ſo firm and even is the curious Sheili. Sand on that Coaſt. Between the Hague and Scheveling, there is a little Houſe of Pleaſure belonging to Mr. * Ben- * Since errated ting , who is very well known to you. A Grand Earl of Port Penſionary of the Hague (he that was Monſieur land . de Wit's Predeceſſor ) weary of the Affairs and Bufineſs of the World, caus'd this little fine Houſe 14 A New Voyage Vol. I. 1 Houſe to be built, with very delightful Gardens, and retir'd thither ; and as he was both a Phi loſopher and a Poet, this Solitude agreed much better with him, than his former State of Life. He nam'd this Place Sorg vliet , ( pronounce Sorflit,) that is to ſay , Out of Care. A Term equi valent to the Curifugium of Emanuel Teſoro, and gives us the ſame Idea as that of the famous P46 . Sylipus. Stet quicunque volet potens Aulæculmine lubrico , Me dulcis Saturet Quies, &c. (Seneca.) ( This ſame Place has receiv'd ſeveral Improve ments and Embelliſhments, ſince its being in the Pof Seſſion of its new Mafter.) The Situation of the Hague deſerves indeed , in a peculiar manner, to be diſtinguiſh'd from that of any other Place in Holland , becauſe of the Variety of its Landskip , having the Wood on the North , the Meadow on the Soutb, ſome Arable Lands Eaſtward, and the Downs and Sea to the Weſt. Its Trade is inconſiderable, in reſpect of the Cities, which have Havens, or great Manufa Eures ; yet a great deal of Buſineſs is tranſacted in this place. Beſides, there are many rich and noble Families which live on their Revenues or Employments in the Army, or Court. The great Concourſe of Perſons of Quality, is the Cauſe that it is always furniſh'd with Ma fters, requiſite for the Inſtruction of young Gen tlemen in all ſorts of Exerciſes. The Academy * The Chappel eſpecially is in great Reputation . There isone ofthis Palace of the fineſt Manages I ever beheld, and the now is made Rider is a very skilful and honeſt Man. uſe of for ile The Prince of Orange is lodg'd * in the Palace French Church. of the ancient Counts of Holland. To ſpeak Truth, Vol. I. to ITALY is Truth, there is nothing extraordinary in this Pa. * Now belong lace. That which is called the *Old Court, where ing to the K. of Pruſſia . the Princes of Orange formerly dwelt, is a more 1 In the Neigh regular Building. † The Houſes of Pleaſure berhood of ibe are very beautiful. Hague is Honflardyke, Wehad the Curioſity to goon purpoſe to the Rifwyck , and Village of Looſduynen, to ſee the two brazen Ba- La Maifon | fons, in which , ' tis faid, the Three hundred du Bois. Sixty-five Children of the Counteſs of Heneberg, This Hiſtory is Daughter to Florent, the Fourth Count of Hol- to be found in land ,were Baptiz’d . Erafmus, Vi. ves,Guicciar din , Chriftoval, Camerarius, Scriverius, Guill. Heda, Guy Dominick Pe ter, Author of the Annals of Flanders, and in many others, who speak of this Birth , As of a thing very well atteſted ; and, as they believe, true, The Annals relate, that the 365 Children were Baptiz'd by the Biſhop, Don Wil. Jiam , Suffragan of Tryers, and that both they and their Mother died on the Jame Day, which was Good- Friday, Anno 1276. Surius, Garon, and divers Chronologers, relate a Hiftory of a Lady of Pro vence, called Irmentrude, Wife of Ilembard, Count of Alcorf, who being brought to bed of Twelve Sons, would have cauſed Eleven to be drowned in the River. They add, That Iſembard meeting the Woman which carried them, asked her what she had in her Basket, the woman anſwer'd, They were little Whelps, which she went zo drown. Iſembard was refolu'd to ſee them , and having diſcover'd the Matter, he took the Children and put them to Nurjes, and when they were grown up, preſented them all alive to his Wife ; in Memory of which, ſaith the Hiſtory , or the Story , that Family aſſum'd the Name of Whelps, which it Aill retains . J. Picus Mirandolanus II. writes, That a Woman of his Country, named Dorothy, brought Twenty Children into the World at two Births, Nine at one , and Eleven at the other. See the Prodigious Hiſtories of P. Boaiſu1u. Albertus Magnus ſpeaks of a German Woman, who was brought to bed of : One Hundred And Fifty Children. It would be no hard matter to produce as 20%. fiderable number of like Examples, which ſome think true, and many falle. You know what hath been ſaid of this Lady ; * Camerarius, that having reproach'd a Beggar- Woman for ha- Grace and Learned Au ving too many Children, the poor Creature in ៥ther,, relates anſwer, * wilhed her as many as there were Days many Inft ances in the Year ; which within the Year accordingly of the Efficacy happen'd ; for the Counteſs was brought to bed cations of ſuch .impre of theſe Three Hundred Sixty - five Children , dit. Hift. To. who, as I have ſaid, were all Chriſten'd, and the 1. 1. 5. c.6 . fame

16 A New Voyage Vol. I.

$ fame Day bury'd in the Church of Loſdun. This Hiſtory is deſcribed at large there, in a great Pi cture, on the sides of which the two Baſons are fix'd . We muſt not forget that the Boys were named Fobn , and the Girls Elizabeth . Marcus Cremerius relates, that a Polonian Lady, the Wife of Count Virboſlaus, upon ſuch an Imprecation, was brought to bed ofThirty-ſix Children. I am loth ſo ſoon to part with the Hague, which , without Contradiction , is a ſine plea fant Place ; but I muſt ſay ſomething of Leyden and Haerlem, before I finiſh my Letter. Think not, that when you leave the Hague, and come to Leyden , you fall into a deſart Country; every thing hath its Value, and that of Leyden is not fmail. 'Tis true, all the Cities of Hola bünd have a ſort of dazling Beauty ; and we cannot praiſe one, without ſaying To much of it, that we wantnew Expreſſions for the other. Nevertheleſs, Iſhould be glad to be able to give youſome new Idea of the Beauties of Leyden. LEYDEN, This City hath not ſo many Coaches asthe on ancient Ci- Hague, nor ſo much noiſy Buſineſs as Rotterdam : But perhaps its Quiet is far more charming. It is a great City ; but, however, Repoſe reigns there, and in it you may enjoy all the Sweet neſs of a Country Life. ' Tis no wonder to obſerve an extraordinary Neatneſs, where there is ſo little Buſineſs and Diſturbance. Nothing comes near that of its Houſes, and we may compare its fine Streets to ſo many Alleys of a well- adorn’d Garden. Yet it muſt be confeſs’d, that the Inhabitants of Leyden would willingly conſent, that their Sireers ſhould be leſs clean, and that they would endure a little more Trou ble, on Condition they could be Mafters of a good Haven. I have heard Projects have been contriv'd about it ; but it's ſaid, that their Land lies to ITALY '17 lies fo low, that they dare not give the Sea a Paſſage : So that the Woollen - Manufacture makes the greateſt Trade of this City. You know * Leyden is very anci- * Some believe, ent, and there are ſtill left fome that the Burg Marks of its Antiquity. But that is a work of the Romans : which at preſent renders it moſt others attria Famous isthet Univerſity. They bute it to the commonly carry Strangers to the Saxons : but Phyſick -School; and in the Ana- Jo.Scaliger pretends it was tomy -Hall you may ſee a great built by the number of Skeletons of Men and Counts not Beaſts : Many natural Rarities, bove four win and other Curioſities; as Plants, Tears ago. five hundred Fruits, Animals, Arms, ftrange There is a la Habits, Pictures, Mummies, curi-:byrinth on the ous Works, Urns, Idols, &c. I fear Top of the lite tle Mountain, you would hardly give credit to which is agrec the Story of a Pruffian Peaſant able enough, as which is there Painted : He had alſo a Well. ſwallowed a very large Knife ; fo The number of scholars is that they were forced to cut open fifteen hun his Stomach to get it out, after dred, or 1here* which he lived eight Years. abouts. The Univerſity hath divers Privileges : 'Twas founded Feb. 8. 1995. Here is the Shape and Bigneſs Daniel Bee of that Knife (asit is there drawn) ker hatb pube liſhed an ac as near as I could gueſs at it atCount of that ſome Diſtance, not being able to accident, with reach to meaſure it ; I am ſure I curions Re haverather leffen'd, than enlarg’dnexions under it : At the ſide of it, is written De Cuirrivan the Title of Ac Andreas Grunheim Boroflus , An- ro Prulliaco. norum 22. deglutivit Cultrum bu jus magnitudinis, Anno 1639. 29 Maij. It is added , that Dani. el Schuabius took out the Knife the 9th 18 A New Voyage. Vol. 1 . ! cut it out gth of July following, in the preſence of ſuch and fuch Phyficians, whoſe Names are there mentiun'd . The Knife to my Knowledge, is ftill kept in a Cabinet of Rarities at Konigsberg.

• This Knife I have ſeen an Account of the * like nature, in

mas Swallow'd the Emperor's Cabinet at Vienna. by another Pear In the midſt of the Hall is an unfortunate Jant in Bohe mia , An, Thief, whom they derided to extremity, after 1602. It ha- they hanged him . They fixed his Skeleton a ving been nine Straddle upon that of an Ox, becauſe he had Months in his Stomack, they been a Cow - ſtealer: they made Shooes of the Skin of another Thief, and a Shirt of his Bow fufcly. els. The Phyſick -Garden is not far from hence. A great number of Rarities are ſtill to be fcen in the Gallery of this Garden, and in the Cabinet call'd the Indian - Cabinet, to which this Gallery leads . I obſerv'd among other things, an Ape, and a Cat, which came into the World with There are Wings : The hand of a Mermaid : A Stare Inany flying Cats in the with long Ears; a Vegetable Priapus, which is a Province of very curious Plant : A Monſter which iſſued out Malabar. of a Henn's Egg : A † Piece of Money ofPaft Talloni. ++ Onone ſide board, made atLeyden, when it was beſiegedby of this Coin , the Spaniards in 1574. And a Serpent brought is this Inſcrip- from Surinam , on whoſe Skin are ſeveral natural tion ,Hæc li. Figures, which reſemble fome Arabick Cha bertaris ergô ; racters.' I make this laſt Obſervation , becauſe and on the O Ther, Pugno our Guide very much admires this little wonder Pro Patria . of Nature. But to ſpeak freely , I find nothing Evey Seven fingular in this, no more than on the Back ofcom Years there is mon Mackerels, or in the Greek Letters, which are Tragedy re preſented, re- form’d , as ſome fancy, by the turnings and wind lating tothat ings of the Meander. There is ſo univerſal, and famous Siege. ſo odd a diverſity of ſuch Conformations in the World, that ' would be eaſy to find the like Fi. gures on the firſt thing we meet with, if we would give our ſelves the trouble to look for ' em. The Vol. I. to ITALY. 19 10 00 The greateſt part of the Animals, Inſects, and ſuch other Things, are hung up in Vials fillid with certain tranſparent Balfams, by which they are preſerv'd from Corruption. The Library which was founded by William I. Prince of Orange, has beenconſiderably encreas'd by thoſe of Helmannus Secundus, Philip à Leydis, and the famous Joſeph Scaliger, who has left to it, at leaſt two hundred Manuſcripts in diverſe Oriental Languages. Going out hence, we went to ſee the great Church , which is a vaft Pile ; and afterwards we took Boat for Haerlem . But before we pro ceed on our Voyage, I muſt needsgive you ſome account of the unfortunate Deſtiny of the Rhines of which there are ſome ſmall remains at Leyden. The Glory of other Rivers encreaſes proportio nably to the length of their Courſe ; but this it is to be abon great and famous River, dwindles to nothing, Survd,that the and is utterly loft before it comes into the Har- branch of the Rbine, which bour. After it hath been conſtrain'd to divide it ſelf at Meeting with the Skenk Fort, where right, a little fra one half of its Waters take the Name of Wabal : above Arn The Telrobs it * of an other great part, a little heim , and above Arnheim . Yet it goes on to that City, Name of time tho' much weaken'd ; and at ſeven or eight Y : rel, is not ( Leagues from thence is again oblig'd to ſeparate properly the at the City of Düerſtede : les principal Branch Yfiel. It is a there takes a new Name, and is call'd the Leck ; Drutusdisz'd, Channel which and the poor little ſtripp'd Rivulet, turns to the and brougiør right, retaining ſtill its Name of Rhine, and paſ- near to a plate ſech on to Utretcht, where it is divided a fourthi now call's time. The Vecht breaks off at that place, and make a com Doesburg, td takes its courſe to the North : And the little munication at thread of Water which is yet call'd the Rhine, this place bez paílech quietly to Worden. It comes to bid its tween the Wia laſt farewel to Leyden , and faintly finiſhes its Rhine and spe ters of the courſe, by loſing the ſmall remainders of its Yeu 1 takes to the carries i he Oui C2 Waters 20 A New Voyage. Vol.I. This Author Waters, in two or three Canals, without having the Honour to enter into the Sea. The Scaman der, the Simois, and ſome other renown'd Rivers, which are not worthy to be compar'd to the Rbine, have met with the ſame reverſe of For tune : The whole ſurface oftheEarth is ſubject to continual Alterations. Theſe Cataſtrophes put me in mind of what Ovid ſays, Vidi ego quod fuerat quondam ſolidiffima tellus Elle fretum : vidifactas ex æquoreterras, & c . We are not ignorant of the cauſe of the Rhine’s Fate::; it was an Earthquake which fhook In the rear the Downs, and fill'd the Mouth of this River, 860. or accor- and forc'd it to return to ſeek a new Paſſage. ding to John Gerbrardus a The Leck was then ſcarce worth notice, but the Leydis, in the Waters of the Rbine, which were driven back Year 840 and overflow'd the Country , ſwell’d, inlarg’d, repreſents that and deepen'd the Leck's Canal ; and the entrance Stormasmost to the Sea hath ever ſince been ſhut againſt the terrible and ancient courſe of the Rhine. This poor River, dreadful. which I had ſeen running the greateft hazards in the Lake of Conſtance, and throwing it ſelf down the Precipice, nearScaffhouſen, at laſt, loſes both its Reputation and Waters, at the Village of Catwyck. ' Tis related by ſeveral good Authors, that the Tract of Land calld Zeeland, was at that time divided into the divers Inands we ſee now : and that thoſe Lands, Woods, and Meadows, that were between Amſterdam and the Texel, were o verflow'd and cover'd with thoſe Waters now re maining, and known by the Name of the Zuya der - Sea . They ſtill preſerve ſomewhere in Leyden the * Or Rucold. Board of the famous Taylor John Bocolde, t cal led John of Leyden, (becauſe born there) Head of the Anabaptiſts, King of Munſter, & c . 16 Vol. I. to ITALY 21 20 cy RIK 101 Com so ! 16. of: . n alg It is near five Leagues from Leyden to Haerlem , HAERLEM, but the Villages and pleaſant Houſeswhich you ſee on the right and left Hand all along the Canal, make the way ſeem ſhort. Haerlem is large and very agreeable ; and there is even one conveniency init, that is wanting at Leyden ; for its Waters are quicken’d by the little River Sparen , which joyns it felf to its Canals, and gives to ſome a courſe, and to others ſome Circulation. The Linen , and Tape, which are made at Haerlem , have for a long time been its chief Trade : But I hear that at preſent they have a great Manufacture of Silk Stuffs. * TheGreat * It was dedi. Church, and the Town -houſe, are the ſtatelieſt cated to S. Ba Buildings : And its Wood of tall Trees, with its yon. It isthe largeſt in all long and ſtrait Walks, is one of its principal Or- the Province. naments. It boaſts to have given Birth to Laurence Coſter, who, if you will believe them, was the firft Inventer of Printing. But you know , Sir, that John Guttenburg of Strasburg, diſputes that Inven tion with Cofter : And that the pretended Con jurer, John Pauſtus of Mentz , will give place to neither. And beſides, this Invention is attribu ted to fobn Mantel, and to Conrad and Arnold, Brothers,and Burgeſſes ofthe ſame City ofMentz ; as alſo to Peter Scheffer, Peter Gernſheim , Thomas Pea terſon , Laurence Genfon, one ſecond John Guttenburg, and ſeveral others. ' Tis ſtrange that Hiſtory is ſo intricate, and entangl’d with Fables, that we cannot diſcover the Truth of fo late a Tranſ action : but if you conſider the Nature and Cir cumftancesof the Thing, you will ſoon perceive the cauſe of this Confuſion . For the reaſon why we find the Names of all thoſe Printers in the Books that were firſt Printed at Haerlem , Mentz, Spire, Strasburg, and other places, is becauſe they were all Pargners; and thoſe who contributed to thg inft B zar If fest lag 22 A New Voyage. Vol. 1. the Charge, reſolv'd to have a fhare in the Glory, ' Tis probable, that every one of 'em claim's the Honour of the Invention ; and ſince the Controverſy cou'd not be eaſily decided, even at that time, 'tis not reaſonable to ſuppoſe, that we ſhou'd be able to give a clearer view of it at ſuch a diſtance. This new Secret was quickly divulg'd , and the Invention was communicated to the princi. pal Cities in Europe. I will not pretend to give an account of the Perſonsby whom it was propa gated : Such an Enquiry wou'd engage me in a new Labyrinth , for the Imitators make ſometimes me noiſe than the Inventers. Nor is the time of this Invention leſs uncertain than the Author : I verily believe, that every Year is mention'd as being the firſt Epocha ofPrinting, from 1420 , till There are near the end of the ſame Century. * Coſter , as no Books of far as I can perceive, had the greateſt Share in Fauſtus's Im- the firſt Invention ; but neither he nor Fauſtus preſiun, fo an cient as there was the Alchor of the fineſt and moſt uſeful ibat have been Improvement of it . For they engrav'd their Printed by Characters in Wood, as it is ſometimes us'd Coſter. at preſent, ſo that every Plate became uſeleſs,

• The advan : † as ſoon as the Impreſſion was finiſh'd , ſince sage of theſe the Letters cou'd not be ſeparated. The way Plates was of Caſting Letters was not Invented till ſome in their being always Years after ; and I think the Honour of this

ready for Invention is almoſt unanimouſly aſcrib'd to meno Irapreſo one Fuhn Mentel. Aldus Manutius, that Learned $ 6.9991, Venetian Printer, found out the Italick Characters, which perhaps receiv'd that Name from the Country where they were invented. He was al ſo the firſt who Printed in Greek and Hebrew. I ſhall conclude this Digreſſion, with obſerving, that as chere is nothing ſo advantageous, which is nor attended with ſome accidental Inconveni encies ; fo che Invention of an Art which was ii info Vali Vol. I. to ITALY. 23 VO IN ul 41 urbe con ſo uſeful to the Learned World, ruin'd the Trade of thoſe who liv'd by tranſcribing Books. nd Among the divers Rarities which are to be ſeen in the Town Houſe of Haerlem , they keep, with particular Care, in a Casket ofSilver, and wrap o ped in Silk , the firſt Book ( according to thoſe of Since the firp Haerlem )thatever was Printed : Its Titleis Spe- Book,or whateve Edition of this culum humaneSalvationis : It hath many Figures. been inform’d I The keeping of this Book is entruſted to ſeveral thatſomething taglie Magiſtrates , who have every one his own Key has been ala of the place where it is, which renders it not ter’d thers. eaſy to be ſeen . The Statue of Laurence Coſter is likewiſe to be ſeen in this place. The following Inſcription was put in Letters of Gold, on the door of his Houſe, with theſe Verſes ; 20,1 MEMORIÆ SACRUM. Typographia Ars Artium omnium Conſervatrix bic primùm inventa circa annum, 1440. Vana quid Archetypos & Præla Moguntia jactas ? Haerlemi Archetypos Prælaque nataſcias. Extulit hic, monftrante Deo, Laurentius Artem. Dilſimulare Virum , diſimulare Deum elt. If what Trigaltius, and otherTravellers have Tavernier at ſaid be true, that Printing is of fo ancient uſage Jures us,that in China, it is very probable,that thoſewhofirft thePerſians made uſe of it in Europe, were but Imitators of the uſe of them. Guy Panciroli does affirm it, and Count Printing. Moſcardo, who quotes him, ſeems not to queſtion the truth of it. ' * Mezeray * The Turks will not allow our famous French Hiſtorian,is alfo of the uſe of Printing, nomore the fame Opinion , in the Life of Eastern Nations except the will she Perſians, nor other Charles the VII, and all thoſe who Chineſe. have wriften concerning the King dom of China, agree in that Point ; Toledo,Biſhop of Popaian in † An Auguſtin Friar of chiefly † Jobn Mendoza Gonzales, America, and afterwards of who tells in his Hiſtory of that Sipari. Coun are . Bu have not yet C4 24 ' A New Voyage Vol. I. Country , that he has ſeen a Chineſe Book Printed soo Years before Printing was known in Europe. I know that the Accounts we have of theſe remote Countries, are not al ways to be depended upon , moſt being ſtuf fed with ridiculous or impoſſible Stories. Such I take the Deſcription the famous Marco Paolo has given us of the City of Quinſay, whoſe Circuit, ſays he, is an hundred Italian Miles. It has One Million Six Hundred thouſand Heads

• More than in of Families, that is to ſay , abou¢ * Eight all England. Millions of Souls ; Twelve thouſand Stone Bridges, which are ſo broad and high, that the biggeſt Ships Sail under the Arches, without ſtriking down their Mafts; a Palace ten Miles round, wherein are twenty magnificent Ap partments , in each of which Ten thouſand Perſons may conveniently live. This is ſo ex travagant, that one would be guilty of too groſs a credulity to believe it ; but on the other hand,

we ſhould be as unreaſonable, if we did from thence deny our belief to Facts probable in themſelves, and duly atteſted. Likely Sir Willi am Petty had no great Faith for this Author, for elſe he would not have ſaid , and endeavour'd to prove, that London is the largeſt, and moſt popu lous City in the World . Meyer, John de Beka, and ſeveral other Hifto rians report, that in the Year 1403, or 1404. a: Mermaid was brought to Haerlem , who, by a fu rious Tempeſt was thrown on the Neighbouring Shore : That they accuſtom'd her to eat ſeveral ſorts ofMeat, bup her principal Foodwas Bread and Milk ; That they taught her to Spin ; and that ſhe lived many Years. Others write, that this Mermaid was ſent from Embden to Haerlem . 7. G. 'a Leydis adds, that ſhe would often Heál away to return to the Water, and that ſhe had Vol. I. to ITALY. 25 a an odd kind of Speech . ( * Locutionem ejus non in- * ( They did telligebant, ſed necipſa noftrum intellexit idioma. ) not under fand her Speech , . And that ſhe was buried in a Church - yard , be nor ſhe our cauſeſhehad Learned to † falute the Croſs . He Language.) alſo ſays that he knew Perſons that had ſeen her. t In the recor 897.there was avery devout Dog at Corbie, who afifted at Maſswith great Modeſty, and in all the decent Poſtures. HeReligiouſly obſeru'd fiſh and Faſt Days, and bited Such Dogswho piſſed againſt theWallsof the Church , or barked during Divine Service , &c. Paulini. Vid. the 6th Volume of the Nouvelles de la Republi. ques des Lettres. We might have again taken the conveniency of the Canal that runs ftreight from Haerlem hic ther, but it being a little too late when wecame from thence, and we willing to get hither as ſoon as we could , we thought it betterto make uſe of a Chariot. The Carriage was a little un eaſy , becauſe thoſe Chariots are not hung, but to make amends, they went a great deal ſwifter than the Boat. E 1 M - Iam, SIR, Amſterdam , Otis.16872 Yours, &c. 1 LETTER III. T SI R , Was not without ſome Regret, that I ſent AMSTER you my laſt Letter from Amſterdam , with - DAM . out giving you ſome account of that famous City: but I fanſied I ſhould do well to refreſh my Memory with its Idea , that my Relation might be more exact. In the mean time, I in treat you to remember, that I did not promiſe to give you an intire deſcription of any Place : Ic 26 # New Voyage. Vol. I. Itwould require a long continuance in places of which I ſpeak, to obſerve every thing that is Remarkablein it, and a large Volume to write all. Amſterdam is without doubt one of the moft beautiful, rare, and important Cities in the World ; and ' tis certain, that it anſwers in every point, the great Reputation it has : But that one ſhou'd be more ſurpriſed with its Beauty, it would be beſt notto have known before -hand, the other Cities of Holland. I confeſs, that af ter I had ſeen the Haven of Rotterdam , and the Beauties of the Hague and Leyden , I was but lit tle ſurpriz'd at the firſt ſight of Amſterdam : I found nothing there which might much diftin guiſh it from thoſe other cities. . Nay, I muſt freely tell you, that the multitude of Carts and Sleds, whoſe number increaſes daily by the vaft There are fome neſs of Trade, ſo cumber and dirty many of the Streets whicla Streets, that it is not very pleaſing to thoſe that are clcan ea immediately come from other Towns, which nough can ſhew more Neatneſs and Tranquility. There is no Compariſon to be made between the greatneſs of Amſterdam and London , ſince, ac cording to the late Calculation, there are Seven or Eight Hundred Thouſand Souls in London , and Amterdam contains not above Two Huil dred Thouſand, even tho’ſo great a number of French Refugees are lately ſettled there. Ne vertheleſs, Amſterdam yields not to any City in the World for Riches, or extent of Trade. You * This Compae know the * E ft India Company alone is ſo pow ny was efts- erful , that it hath made head againſt Princes, blifbed in without interrupting the courſe of its Traffick. ' Tis equally foreign to my Deſign, and beyond my Capacity, to give you a particular Account of the prodigious Trade of this City ; buri cannot 1594 hen Vol. I. to ITALY 27 has: B: I was i ( much KOLOR cannot forbear acquainting you, with the Cha vers tiek rađer I receiv'd of it ſome Days ago , from one Host of the principal Merchants of this place; and I wiſh I cou'd reach the force of his Expreſſi 093 of4.ons. Know, ſaid he , that you are now in the iCis: perpetual Fair of the Univerſe. The number unlwest of our Ships is much ſuperiour to that of our Houſes: they bring us from all the Corners h its Box of the World, all that the Creator has pro 2o hefo duc'd for the Pleaſure and Profit of Mankind. en onfefs, this The other Harbours in our Provinces have each Terdam, a a particular Commerce ; but we comprehend all. Amſterdam is the great Magazine of Eu juin rope ; and if there were nota London in the World, we might ſay without Vanity, that there was not Narl any City that durft pretend to Rival us in Trade. of Ca This famous City is all founded on Piles in the midſt of a Marſh : It is built on the South of the River Te, whoſe Mouth is an Arm or a lit- Or Tye. - manyd tle Gulf of the Zuyder-Zee, on which the prodigi ous number of Ships reſembles a vaſt Foreſt. The + Fortifications are not flight, and beſides, there are Arſenals, and + Twenty Six Baſtions. The ade bi Sluces to drown all the Country a- broad , deep and full of runa Ditches are · Eighty Paces in . bout: So that it may be juſtly ac- ning Water ; the ordinary cere are counted a very ſtrong place. * The Garriſon is Eight Companies sin Town -Houſe is a ſtatelyFabrick of 200 Men each : The Capa Two of hewn Stone ; its length is One Beſides, there are 60 Compa tains muſt be Amſterdamers. -num. Hundred and Ten Paces , and its nies ofBurgbers, of 250 Men her breadth Eighty Four. They af- each. The Gates are ſhut at any fur'd me, that the Foundation Nine a Clock. They are partly coft as much as all the superſtru- partly by the Garriſon. The guarded by the Citizens, and se isto Aure. Its Architecture is highly e. Keys areput into an Iron Cheſt, nit .Iteem'd , yet I fanſie it oughtto have in cuftodyof the Citizens, and its TW a fair Gate , inſtead ofthole low the chief Burgomaſter keeps the Keys of the Cheli. GL. and b. and narrow Doors, which debaſe It is ſaid this Building Jai Aai the entrance into this moft ſplendid coſt Ibrce Millions. ; Palace ; it were alſo to be wilh'd , that ybythe to the Wins, 1 quility rade + 28 A New Voyage Vol. I. that the open Place before it were more neat and regular. Here are kept the vaſt Sums of which the Fund of the Bank is compos'd. The Doors are proof againſt Petards ; andfor the greater Security, a certain number of Bur ghers walk the Roundsevery Night. The * principal Church, is not * It is called the Nena ſo large as thoſe of Leyden and Haera Church. It was formerly de lem . dicated to St. Catherine. The It is to be conſider'd, that Organs coft One Hundred Thou Amſterdam , about Four hundred and Land Crowns. The Tomb of fifty Years ago wasonly a Village Ruyter, is a piece worth your ofFiſhermen : And this fo renown'd wiew . They defigx'd to erect e very bigla Tower bythe City, in our Age, was bur in a ve Church, but that work was ry indifferent Condition when the neuer perfected, becauſe the Church, of which I am ſpeaking, Building Surk as fast as they raised it. was built. In it they ſhew you the Pulpit, and tell you that it, toge ther with its Canopy , coft Twenty thoạc fand Crowns. It is made only of Wood, of Go thick Carving, very full of Ornaments. On the Glaſs-Windows of this Church is painted the Hi ſtory of the Emperor Maximilian the Second, Anno 1488. who thonoured the Arms of the City with an Imperial Crown, in acknowledgment of the | 0r,One Pale good Offices he had receiv'd from it. The King's charg’d with of Spain have granted to Madrid, Toledo, Burgos, bree Salteers and ſeveral other Cities, the Privilege of bear Argent. ing a Royal Crown over their Coats of || Arms ;

• It is aſquare They have alſo conferr'd the fame Honour upon

Building, tre ſeveral Families; and particularly , Hobo Cerval ted An.1671. lone, Baron ofOropeza, receiv'd this Favour from Notwithiand Charles the Fifth. The Portugueze Jews here are ing the Inqui extraordinary Rich, and their Synagogue is a fition again the Jews in ſtately Building, whereas that ofthe High-Dutch Spain and Jews is but mean and contemptible. Portugal, a Portugueze Jew (Don Jerome Nunez de Coſta ) ras Agent of Portugal, 4t Amſterdam . And anosier (Don Emanuel de Belmont) Rsident of Spain . This lajt received the Title of Gowme from ihe Emperor. Gules , Vol. I. to ITALY. 19 As we wentalong they brought us to one of the * Houſes of Correction for the young De- * Raſphuys bauchees, where they are conftrain'd to work : There was one in a dark Cellar, wherehe Pump ed inceſſantly, withoutwhich the Cellar would have been filld with water in a quarter of an Hour, and he, by conſequence, in danger of Drowning. Every onehath his Occupation and They have as bolil'd be ula Task , which he muſt punctually perform un ofthe Pump, · der the Penalty of Whipping. Some are there ince thefirst for their Lives, others only for aa Time. There Edition of this · is alſo the like + Houſe for Courteſanes, but they Book. treat them with leſs Severity : This Houſe is not + Spinhuys. very full. It is a double Misfortune to about a Score of poor Creatures who are kept in this Priſon to do Penance per force , while ſome thouſands of their Comrades have their Tails at liberty : For, to ſpeak the Truth, if theſe un happy Recluſes have deſerved ſuch a Treatment, it is moſt certain, that there are many others in the Town, who deſerve it more than they, tho they are not thus ſhut up. The Roman Catholicks have the ſame liberty here , which they enjoy through all the Domi nions of the States : But I can aſſure you, that A Modern their number is not near ſo great in this City, Author,wie as ſome would perſwade us. I had the fortune lived a long time af Am to Diſcourſe with a very intelligent and curious ſterdam , Perſon , who hath examin'd this matter ; and he writes, that affirms, that the Roman Catholicks, and other there are in Sedaries together, do not make a fourth part bout 13000 that City as of the Inhabitants of Amſterdam . Roman Ca tholicks, men as many Lutherans, 4000 Anabaptiſts, 80 Families of Arminians, so of Quakers , 450, or ſomemore of Portugueze Jews, 100 of High - Dutch Jews, émolti Particolari che vivono ſenza Religione. There is a Chapel for the Sons of the Church of England ; and two Engliſh Meetings : ome of Presbyce. bians, and the other of Independants. I know 30 A New Voyage Vol. I. was I know notwhether you have heard of a kind + Thereis 130 of Convent of Nuns, callid † Beguines, who are are in a large ſtill tolerated here : There are a greatmany of Cloyſter. Their them in the Spaniſh Netherlands. But becauſe I Churchmay believe you are not acquainted with this ſort of eaſily contain 1200 People. Society, I will give you the Character of it in Calviâus re- few and general Terms: It is compos'd of Mai ports , that the dens or Widows who have no Children. There Order of the Beguines was are among them ſomeof all ſorts of Qualities, Infiituted in and nothing is requir'd to make them capable the rear 1207 of admittance, but good Teſtimonials, and an by one called Eſtate ſufficient to maintain them at their own Begges;or ac• Charge. Every Beguine may have her Houſe,

,

cording te some others, and neceffary Conveniencies by her ſelf, or they by Vlo may joyn ſeveral together, according as Kin - man whoſe dred or Friendſhip may incline them. The Begga stis place of this Society bears the name of the Bea . ' not certainly guinage , which is commonly like a little Towa known whé incloſed within another, and ſurrounded with that Wmar a Wall, and a Ditch. There is a Church in this ere was,ſincethere Incloſure, where the Beguines are oblig'd to be ſeveral Women who preſent at the Hours appointed for publick Devo haveborn that tions. Their Habits are black, and ſomewhat Name. M. S. fantaſtical. They regulate their Expences as pretends, that Bewust they pleaſe, as well for their Table as Fur Daughter of niture. They receive and pav Vilits when they Pepin I. but pleaſe. They quit the Beguinage when they Pris certain, have an inclination to Marry , or on any other thattheinfi. Occaſion . And it may be ſaid, that this Re tution of the , Order of Be- treat, far from the vowed conſtraint of that of guines is of a Convents, is a very ſweet and reaſonable man much later ner of living . Since I have touch'd upon the Article of Re ligion ( concerning which I forbear to obſerve, for the ſake of Brevity , abundance of remarka ble and particular Things relating to this Go vernment ; ) I ſhall only ſay here,that their High Mightinesſes the States - General , allow to every Date, one i Vol. I. to ITALY 31 one that lives under their Protection , an entire Liberty of his own Conſcience; highly con demning the horrible Practice of that Inquiſiti on which is us’d in not only the Pope's Domini ons, but alſo in ſome other Countries, with ſo much Impiety and Barbarity, even againſt the Rules of good Policy it ſelf ; as Experience and right Reaſon make it plainly to be ſeen in Hol land. This wiſe and glorious State, does not only allow all their Subje & s the juſt liberty of Thinking, and Believing, according to the mea ſure of their knowledge, ( a thing which we cannotpretend to hinder by Force, without be ing guilty of an Abſurdity ;) but generouſly take the part of Strangers, who groaning beneath that Oppreſlion, come to implore their Afli ſtance, and to beg their Interceſſion, in order co obcain this juft Freedom . Their High Mighti nefes have lately explain’d themſelvesupon that matter in Publick, in a Letter written to the Lords of the Canton of Bern , with ſo much good neſs and perſpicuity ,in favour of thoſe very good People, commonly known by the Name that's given’em , of Mennoniſts or Pietiſts,that I willingly embrace this favourable Opportunity of infert ing here, that excellent Letrer, which gives a juſt and certain Idea of the true Sentiments of thoſe Sovereign Lords, according to the Au thentick Expreſiion of their own Mouths. This generous Declaration of theirs, deſerves to be written in Golden Characters on durable Braſs, to ſerve as a Leſſon and Example to Princes that tyrannize over the Souls, as well as the Bodies of their Subjects, in requiring Impoſſibilities of 'em ; and haften , according to their Princi ples, the eternal Ruine of thofe whom they pers fecure , and whoſe Blood they dare to ſhed . 5 32 A New Voyage Vol. 1 Copy of aLetter from the High and Mighty States General of the United Provinces, 10 the Laudable Canton of Bern, infavour of the Perſecuted Anas baptifts ( or Mennonifts, ) March 15. 1710 . Noble, &c.

' T

' ' THE Anabaptiſts who live under the Ju riſdiction of our State, have repreſent ed to us with great concern and grief of Mind, That they underſtand by Letters and certain • Information, That their Brethren of the ſame • Perfwafion in Switzerland, and eſpecially in your Canton of Bern, are oppreſs'd with hea. vy and ſevere Perſecutions for the Exerciſe of their Religion. Inſomuch that at this time a great Number of Perſons, both Men and Wo men , are impriſoned, and are threaten'd, not only with lefſer Puniſhments, but even with the Gallies, Baniſhment, and Death it felf. Upon which account they beg our Interceſfi on in favour of their Brethren, for alleviating their Sufferings, and preſerving the liberty of remaining in Safety in their Country, in the • free Exerciſe of their Religion. We have for many Years examin'd the Conduct of the Anabaptiſts, and have found them by Expe rience, to be good and faithful Subjects in our Country ; of a quiet, plain , and fincere manner of Life, not meddling with any Mat ters but what belong to them . On which * Account we neither could nor ought to refuſe to ſo good Subjects our Interceſſions in favour of their Brethren. We hold, as well as your Lordſhips, the Rem formed Religion for the beſtand true Religion, and we could wiſh that the Anabaptiſts here, and with you, could be brought over to it. But 6 Vol. I. to ITALY 33 s

• But we are of Opinion, that no other Means ' are to be employ'd to obtain that End but

Reaſon and Conviction, and that Compulſion ought never to be us'd in Matters of Conſci. ence, over which God has reſerv'd to himſelf ' the Juriſdiction : To whom alone every Man muſt give an Account in due time, as well • of his Opinions as of his Actions and Omiſſi s Ons, 6 ز $ And ſince you, as well as We and other Po tentates profeſſing the Reformed Religion, do ſo often, and with very good Reaſon, com plain of the Perfecution ſuffer'd by our Bre Sihren in thoſe Countries where an Inſupporta ble Hierarchy has got the upper Hand ; It does by no means become us to fall into the fame • Methods of Perfecuting thoſe, who though differing from us in ſome Particulars,yet ad mit the Word of God for the fole Rule ' of their Faith and Manners. But it is much more adviſeable to uſe Chriftian Forbearance and Toleration towards them, that the Enemies of the Reformed Religion may not have any Pre tence from the Example of ſuch Perſecucions . pradis'd by any Reformed Potentates againſt thoſe that differ in ſome things from their Sen timents, to juſtify their ſevere and cruel Per “ ſecutions of our Reformed Brethren. " It ſeems very ſtrange and ſurprizing to us, that any ſhould offer to puniſh others with Ba ' niſhments, Priſons,Galleys, and Death , on account of their Religion, on which they think their eternal Salvation depends. We think " that all Men ſhould be left free to themſelves in thoſe Matters, provided thoſe who are of any other than of the publick Eftabliſh'd Reli ' gion do nothing that can tend to the preju dice of the Commonwealth. And it appears D 6 to 34 A New Voyage. Vol. I. ( God. © to us, That in that Reſpect, there is leſs to be • apprehended from the Anabapriſts than from Men of any other Perſwafion, ſince they car ry themſelves conſtantly obedient and ſubmiſ live to the ſuperiour Powers,in all things which they don't think contrary to the Word of And whereas we are inform'd that your Lordſhips lay three Things to their Charge. Ift. That they do not own Magiſtracy to be agreeable to the Word of God, or the Tenour of the Chriſtian Religion ; 2dly , That they " refuſe to Swear Fidelity to the Government, and to confirm the Truth by their Oaths when cited by the Magiſtrate : 3dly, That they re ' fuſe to Defend their Country in caſe of Ne. ceſlicy. It appears to us, That the firſt of theſe Accuſations does not at all agree with the Izth Article of their Confeffion of Faith, by which it is plain that they have other, and much better Sentiments of Obedience to Su periours. And as to the matter of Oaths, ſince they are of Opinion that Swearing is ' forbid them by the Word of God, and that © their Declaration on their Veracicy has the fame force and effect with them, as Oaths with ochers : It follows by Conſequence , that this Opinion can be of no prejudice to the Pub Slick . And as to the Third, we think it is too • far ítretch'd , ſince they do not abſolutely re ' fufe to defend their Country, but think that the Profeſſion and Uſe of Arms for Revenge

• and Ruin of others is not allow'd of by the Laws of the Goſpel ; and that it may ſuffice ! that they pay all Taxes which are laid upon them, by which a State may be defended.

• We therefore requeſt you, that for the afore ſaid Reaſons you will take the Affair of theſe Ana © 6 ز Vol. I. to ITALY 35 s 6 6 6 < Anabaptits into your Conſideration, and not only releaſe thoſe that are in Priſon, and ab ftain from all other Puniſhments, but alſo al low them, as good Subjects, to live in Peace ' under your favourable Prote &tion . We are of Opinion , that you will thereby not only do no Prejudice, but a very great Service to your s own State, (to which we wiſh all manner of Proſperity; ) and that we ought in this • Caſe to obſerve this Rule, To do unto orbers , as we would be done unto us. Moreover, it will be very agreeable to us to hear that our Intercel fion has produc'd the wiſh'd effect for theRe lief of thoſe afflicted People, and weſhall ac knowledge the ſame on all Occaſions. If after ſo folid and determinate a Diſcourſe, it happens, that the Inferior Courts in the fame Provinces, act contrary to theſe Principles ; one may certainly perceive, that this Diſorder is the fruit of ſome particular Intrigue, the Authors of which would be feverely punifh’d, if the STATES werë to examine the Matter. The confuſion that would be occaſion'd by Coaches, by reaſon of the perpetual Carriage of Merchandizes , and the danger of ſhaking the Houſes, which, as I told you, are founded on Piles, is the reaſon that none but Strangers and Phyſicians are allow'd to have any. Sleds indeed are permitted,butare a flow and unpleaſant Car riage, which none but old Women make uſe of. We went to ſee a French Opera , where there one oughe to was neither Machines, nor rich Cloaths, nor viſit as Am ſterdam the good Actors. That which we found moſt plea- Cabinets of fant, was a great Laſs, who acts the part of a Mr.Wiltzen , Man, and pronounc'd what ſhe ſung ſo well, thac Vanderhem , one would have believ'd ſhe had been born in Occo, and Grill . France, tho' all ſhe ſaid was by rote ; for ſhe un- c .Patin. derſtood not a word of French . They ſay the D 2 was 36 AA New Voyage . Vol.i. was a Drummer for five or ſix Years among the Dutch Troops. Muſt I tell you ſomething of the famous Mu fick -Houſes ; They area kind of Taverns andHalls for Dancing , where the young People of the meaneſt fort, Men and Maids meet every Evening. Theſe are the Meeting places, but the Perform ance is carried on in another. Uſually Strangers have the Curioſity to ſee them . Curious Specta tors muſt make ſhew as if they had a mind to drink a Glaſs of Wine when it is offer'd ,and give ſome Gratuicy to him or her who preſents it. The Burſe or Exchange was built in the Year The Exchange 1608. It is a Building of fine Free- Stone, and of London is about 148 foot founded on more than 2000 Piles. The place in length, and where the Merchants aſſemble is about 220 Foot 120in breadıb. long, and 130 in breadth. TheGalleries are ſup The Exchange ported by forty fix + Pillars. The Shops are nei of Antwerp is go comman ther ſo fine, nor ſo numerous as thoſe on the paces long, and Royal-Exchange, and others, at London . The Academy commonly callid the Iluſtrious The firſt Or- School, is a fine Building. There they teach the der is Doric, and the Seconds Orientaland other Tongues : Divinity, Philofo Ionic. phy , Hiſtory, & c. The Lawyers, and the Phyſi cians, 'have alſo their Schools. There are five, or fix, principal high Towers ( each of them having a great Clock ) which are ſo placed and diſtributed, that the Hours may be eaſily heard in any part of this City. I am inform’d, that a Gentleman that has liv'd in this City a great while, is now buſie in compoſing a little Bock, the Title of which is, || Le Guide d'Amſterdam en Faveur des Negotians et des 70 briad 1. We all find in it a particular Deſcription of the Hotelde Ville, and the reſt of the publick Buildings ; The Cuſtom : Books , the Meallocs of Cloash ; The Weighis and Meaſures ; The Rules of the Exchange and Lumbary ; The interest of Brocage, the Puffs, the Waggons, the Boats , the Roads, & ce ( Vol. I. to ITALY. 37 23 2 1 des Voyageurs ; you ſhall find in it many curious things which , for that Reaſon, I omit here . I return'a Yeſterday from Loſdun, whither ſome The place of Friends oblig'd me to go a ſecond time with the Nativity them. I am very glad I can inform you, that of the famous the Inſcription which is to be ſeen in theChurch JohnMeurfi us ( who died of this Village, differs from the Annals of Flan- in 1641, bio ders, which I have already mentioned to you, ing 62 Tears in this particular ; That the faid Annals give the old ). Name of William to the Biſhop chai christnen'd the 365 Children ; whereas he is nam'd Guido in the Inſcription at Lofdun : but this Variation is no Argument againſt the Truth , or at leaſt againſt the probability of the Fact. If it were ſo, we could never depend upon any Hiſtory,, no, not even thoſe of the Bible : For we muſt own, that in reſpect to the Hiſtorical Circum ſtances, their Harmony is much diſagreeing. But theſe ſorts of Differences in particularities that are not eſſential, are ſo far from giving us any juſt prejudice againſt the reality of the principal Matters of Fact, that on the contrary, they clearly prove , thatthere was no Cheat or Combination among the Witneſſes. The moſt conſiderable Actions that happen in our Time, and even under our Eyes , are always rela ted with ſome Variations. Here is the In ſcription , that is in the Church of Loſdun, ( Looſduynen .) 21 0. - 1 En tibi Monſtroſum nimis dememorabile Fa&tum ; Quale nec d Mundi Conditione datum . MARGARITA. Illuftris Domini Florentii Comitis Holandia Filii, Cujzes Mater fuit Mactbildis , Filia Henrici Ducis Brabantii, ( Fratrem quoque habuit Gulielmum , Alemanniæ Regem) 38 A New Voyage . Vol . I, Al. 64 Hæc præfata DOMINA MARGARITA Anno Salutis M. CC. LXXVI. Ætatis fuæ Anno XLVII. Ipſo Die Paraſceves, borå 9 ante Meridiem Peperit Infantes vivos promiſcui Sexůs Numero Trecentos * Sexaginta Quinque. Qui Per venerab. Epiſcop. Dom : Guidon. Suffraganeum Præfentibus nonnullis Procerib. & Magnatib. In Pelvi quadam Baptiſmi Sacramentum percepillent, Et Maſculis JOANNES, Famellis vero Nomen ELISABET Impofitum eſſet, Ipſorum omnium, cum Matris, Anime , Ad Deum Æternaliter victure redierunt, Corpora autem ſub hoc Saxo requieſcunt. A Hæc lege, mox animo ſtupefactus Lektor abibis. ز Al. 42 . That is to ſay literally , MARGARET, Daugh ter of the Illuſtrious Lord Florent ( IV . ) Count of Holland, and of Macthilda Daughter of the Duke of Brabant; and Siſter to William King of Germany. MARGARET,I ſay,of * 47 Years of Age( and mar ried to the Count of Henneberg ) was brought to Bed of Three hundred and fixty five Children all a live, as well Boys as Girls, on Eafter -Eve, about Nine in theMorning ; in the Year of our Lord M.CC. LXXVI. The Children were all Chriſten'd by the venerable Lord and Biſhop Guido ( or Guy ) Suffragan . - in the preſence of ſeveral great Lords. They were preſented all together in a Baſon to receive the Sa crament of Baptiſm : TheBoys were nam'd JOHN ; and the Girls ELIZABETH. But immedia ately after, Margaret their Mother, and they all died , Vol. I. to ITALY 39 this Inferip ز had not the have this from a very died, to live again eternally with God . Their Bodies are interr'd beneath this Tomb. † Adrian Junius relates this whole Hiſtory in He gives alle his BATAVIA ; and by the manner in which he the Inferip tion , in which expreſſes himſelf, one has no reaſon to doubt, be basput but that that Grave and Learned Man was con- but 364 Child vinc'd of the Truth of the Story. The moſt dren inftead of I Curious will be ſo much the more pleas'd ' to 365 : 1 Read find here his own Words ; becauſe the Book is tion at Lor not common, and the Teſtimony of a famous dune , but I Phyſician , and a Perſon born in the Country,leiſure to Trans concerning a Matter of Fact of this Nature, fcribe it . in merits a greater Accention. exa& t friend, who formerly took it upon the very place. I could guote bere os Number of Authors, beſides thoſe that I have named inthe former Letter, whorelate this Prodigious and Incredible Hiſtory for certain Truth . LOSDUNUM duobus paffuum Millibusab ' Haga Comitis diffidet, à Collibus quos inter ha bitatur Nomen adeptum . Bernardi Inſtitutum ' fequitur, à Mathilde conſtructum , ubi oſtendi tur, inter alia, Monumentuin Margaretæ Prin cipis Fæminæ, quæ Florentii IIII. Comitis, è Mathilde jam di&tæ uxore, filia, Comiti Hen nebergenſi nupta, uno pauciores quàm An- * Perkaps one nus vertens dies habet, Liberos , partu porten- of thoſe little tofo edidiffe memoratur : quæ res ut compen- things w as lost. dio abſolvam , ad hunc haber modum. Pau ' perculam Gemellos enixam , & pendentes u trinque ab uberibus lactantem , quæ Comitis • Uxori ſe fortè obtulerat ftipem flagitans ; probro inceſſebat ipſa Princeps, & || adulterio || Others re concepiſſe inceftam prolem aiebat ; " fieri enim port , that the poffe ut uno ex Marito bina ftirps naſce- Princeſs ſaid to this Beggar, retur, pernegabat. Illa, pudicitiæ intemeratæ That poor W .. * Deum Teftem cicans , imprecatur illi ſobo- men ought not C *

4 6 lem , quæ numerum folidi Anni dierum æquet, to get Chile fi pudicitiæ fuæ conftaret honos. Precum D4 effica dren , 40 A New Voyage Vol. I. any otherwiſe Providence ; C grest Number efficaciam comprobaffe Eventi fides dicitur, parcu incredibili, niſi publici Monumenti Au * Hedoesnot storitatem convellere, fidemque Tabulæ ad look upon that teftandam ſempiternam rei Memoriam pofitæ but as a mira . diſſolvere nefas putarem. Conſimilis exempli, culous Work of in partu numeroſo obſervati fides ( * NE QUID POTENTIÆ DEI DEROGETUR) Bifides in les adnotata legitur, ab Annalium Brunfuicen Reo the Poor Woman's' fium Scriptore: conſentientibus Alberto Cran Imprecation, 16 tzio in Vandalicx Hiftoriæ Commentariis ; & could alloge Erneſto, Anhaltinorum Principum Hiftorio of Events of grapho , quorum conſenſus teftatur Tricefi i he ſame Nas moSeptimo poſt prædictum prodigium Anno, ture,which areo Margaretam (huic de qua loquimur cogno edJo,will thatatteft the. - minem ) Holſtenii Comitis Conjugem , TO moſt incredila , TIDEM capitum Sobolem maturo partu lous could not enixam edidiſſe ; in quo Fætus omnes Hu deny 'em with manam manifeftè fpeciem repræſentantes, in out being guila Baptiſterio falutari Undâ abluti fuerint. Por Temerity. ro , Ariſtarchi cujuſpiam miniatas ceras de of from thence poſcere videtur id quod Jo. Cuſpinianus (qui proceed's Ber: " Cæſarum vitas diligenter annotavit , ſcrip tius'smitake,o fique) a noftris Annalibus non parum eva mben be says (in his Caia . rians, Machtildem Sororem Gulielmi Cæſaris, logue of the ' Comitem Hennebergenſem nominat hanc Bijlops of U.. ipſam , quam nos Filiæ puerperæ Matrem trecht) Otro diximus, quam ( ut ipſe Numerum init ) III. 36. Epil trecentos quinquaginta Færus uno partu , ( Fi Gul. Comitis ' dem omnem ſuperante MIRACULO ) ex Holl. Sedit ' cutiſſe prædicat ab + Othone Avunculo Tra Ann. 16. Hic o jedino Præſule in Pelvis Labro Baptiſmo . ' zafie Her tinctos. manni Comi- Nos , Tabule penſilis quæ in Loſdunenſi Fano, Pis Hennen- ' Rei Memoriæ conſécrata eft, fidem fequimur : berg. Liberos c quam , cò libentiùs hîc inferuimus , quòd -365 . ex Mac childe Flo animadvertam non piguille Clariſſimos viros rentii IV. Defid. Eraſmum , & Ludovicum Vivem , Aus Comitis Holl. ctoritatem rei geſtæ Monumentis Scriptorum publice 6 C copus, filius © < filia nacos. Vol. I. to ITALY 41 C 5 publicè teſtatam , ad pofteros tranſmittere. . * Exta que hodiè fupra Worcomium cis Moſæ * That is to ripam , ' Arx ejuſdem Memoria Teftis, PUERO-Say ; there is RUM cognomine nuncupata , qua totidem quot now at Wor fuerunt Capita Feneſtras olim oſtentabat, nunc cum, upon the Maeſe, a co • Rofſemiæ Familiæ propria. Ale, which is a Monument Memorial of the Truth of this prodigious Hiſtory. They call it, the Children's Caſtle, and they have made as many Windows in it, as Mar garet, ' Counteſs of Hennenberg, had Children at one Birth. This Caftle be longs, at preſent (1588.) to thoſe of the Roffem Family. 1 OM The Opinion, which is univerſally almoſt eſtabliſhed among the Proteſtants , according to which, they are perſwaded that MIRACLES ARE CEASED , is the only Obſtacle that makes them place theſe Sorts of Prodigies among the rank of thoſe Things that we ought not to be lieve. The greateſt part of thoſe that belong to the Sanctuary it ſelf, have accuſtom'd them felves to treat at firſt daſh , ſuch Matters of Fact, as old Women's Tales, without entring into any farther Examination. But ſince an opportunity preſents it ſelf here, I will freely declare, that, in my opinion, ' tis not ſufficient for us to have once poſſeſs’d our Fancies with theſe Sorts of Prejudices, and afterwards to make uſe of ' em as certain and well eſtabliſh'd Truths. For Men that reaſon juſt, ought always to have very ſtrong and evident Reaſons for the important Matters of Fact they advance, or deny. When thoſe, who profeſs Atheiſm , abſolutely deny all Supernatural Operation, their Conduct, is in ſome ſort of manner ſupportable ( altho they ad raſhly ) becauſe their Negations are Conſequen ces of their Principles. But for thoſe, who boaſt themſelves to believe in God,to acknowledge his Providence, and believe his former Revelations; they certainly fall into a manifeſt and intole rable 42 A New Voyage. Vol . I. 1 WI 34. 1 1 rable Contradi&tion , when they deny theſe Ope - ci rations as being impoſſible; as they make them ſelves, at the ſame Time, guilty of downright Blaſphemy. All the Doctors of Divinity, as they call ' em , teach in their Pulpits, and in their Schools, exprelly , that the Arm of God is not ſhorten'd

and they preach unanimouſly the Doctrine of the Mi niſtry of Angels, (Heb. 1.14. Pr. 8. and 91. 11.)

of thoſe Spiritual and Intelligent Beings, who are employ'd ' by Providence , that is to ſay by God , to operate and perform ſeveral Things that He has decreed. The Holy Spirits that ſtand before the Throne of God, ſay theſe Divines, are the Courriers, the Ambaſſadors of their Almighty Ma ſter, and Executors of his Orders : They are Guides, Comforters, and Protectors of theFaithful; And 'tis for this Reaſon , that in our Prayers , in the (a) Liturgy it ſelf, we ask of God the Afi ftance of thele Angels ; nothing is more pofi tive. 'Tis upon this Account alſo , that our Preachers exclaim with great Zeal, againſt thoſe, who , are infected with Sadduciſm . Beſides, theſe Truths being ſuppos'd, the Teachers own , that the Operations of the Holy Angels, being ſupernatural, or independent on the Mechaniſm of Nature, are miraculous. How then do they ſo eaſily fall into the Illuſion of their Axiom, That God works no more Miracles , or to make uſe of the Expreſlion they have conſecrated, THAT MIRACLES ARE CEASED ( 6 ) FOR EVER ? Thoſe ( a ) O Everlafting God , who haft Ordain'd and Conftituted the Services of Angels and Men in a wonderful Order ; mercifully grant, that as the Holy Angels always do i bee Service in Heaven's fo, by sloy Appointment, they may ſuccour and defend us on Earth; through Jeſus Chriſt our Lord . (Common - Prayers 56. Mi. chael's Day. (6) This Axiom almoſt generally receir'd among ſeveral Prote fitant Sects, that Miracles are ceas'd, neceſſarily import the Suppan fisins Vol . I. to ITALY 43 t 1 5 Thoſe of the Romiſh Faktion , have fill'd their Leo gends, without the leaſt Modeſty or Diſcretion , with an innumerable number of Fables , ſeveral of which, are no leſs abſurd than untrue ; And we, to oppoſe them, are fallen into the oppo . ſite Extreme

and we have carried this Exceſs fo

far, that we had rather join with the Modern ( c ) Jews, in maintaining , as they do , a Falſity , which is both manifeſt and injurious to the Di vinity ; and in borrowing the wicked Arms of thefe Miſcreants,than to leave a Stone unturn'd, to oppoſe the Romaniſts, who are the moſt trou blefom of all our Enemies : ' Tis this, proba bly , that is the ſource of our Miſtake. A Strange Thing indeed ! that ſo many Men of Gra vity and good Senſe, ſhould imagine that ſuch 2 Doctrine, manifeſtly Scandalous and Impious, fhould not want Proofs

and that it is ſufficient for them coldly to ſay, that God works no more

i Miracles without being obliged to convince thoſe that hear 'em , by the ſtrongeſt Argu ments, of the Truth of lo important an Hy potheſis ! however, ' tis what they ought to do. The pleaſure I také in converſing with you by theſe Lecters, after our wonted Familiarity and Freedom, has occaſion'd this ſmall Digreſſion ; I hope, you will not look upon it as a Teſti mony of my Belief concerning the Truth of the Prodigy we have been ſpeaking of, for I keep my Judgment in ſuſpence , as to that ſition of a Ceffation without a Return

or at leaſt,

a long Diſcon tinuance poſitively declar'd and marked for a certain time : for if Miracles have not ceas'd, but as the rain and Thunder seale now And then, one may perhaps expe&t Miracles every Day. (c) The Modern Jews . Say, that God has ceas'd to work Mi. recles, ever ſince the Deftruction of their forf Temple ; and our common Controverſiſts have adopted this idle Dream , to make uſe of it agsinft theLegends. To Say, Miracles are ceas’d , isa ground leſs Folly , if not a difingenuous Impudence, faith Dr. Scubbes. Point

44 A New Voyage Vol.I. Point ; and ſee no Neceſſity of labouringmuch to determine it . But I have willingly embrac'd this opportunity that has offer'd it ſelf of telling you , that we ought not to reject, as falſe, all Facts that we can naturally explain, ( they un doubtedly being in the Predicament of Super naturals) in declaring my ſelf ftrenuouſly againſt the Libertines, who own no other Power , than the Power of Nature ; and on the other ſide, againſt thoſe that calling themſelves Chriſtians, abandon inconſiderately one of their great Prin ciples, and fall into a moſt pernicious Error ; I deplore this Indolence and Blindneſs. I am alſo afraid, that a certain practical Atheiſm , is the Source, or Refuge of that Incredulity we now a- days fee ſo much in Vogue, concerning theſe Sorts of Things.. Nothing is more miſerable, and contemptible, than a credulous Temper ; we ought ne ver to admit of any thing for Truth, without having ſolid Proofs, and clear Reaſons to con But neither is it in our power to op poſe our ſelves , by ſimple and voluntary Nega tions, againſt the Truth of Matters of Faa, that are well atteſted : we muſt allow of 'em , without grounding our Negative upon our Ignorance of the ſecret Springs; even, when we find ourſelves forced to have Recourſe to ſupernatural Waysof A & ing. We muft yield, indeed, to the Evidence of Demonſtrations : for, to pretend after an Ar bitrary manner to Neight, and reject Demon Itration, it is a fooliſh and ridiculous Temerity. vince us. I am, SIR, Amſterdam , QEo, 20. 1687 Your, & c. LETTER Vol. I. 45 to I TAL Y. 2 abouring ingles I fell of LETTER IV . SIR , WE zin, sent of nuoulse E were Seven full Hours on the Canal Er Power between Amsterdam and Utrecht, but we the othe ock: ſpent the Time with a great deal of Pleaſure ; Ives Clich not only becauſe of the fair Weather, and the eir graui fine Country ; but eſpecially of the Company nicious E we had the good Fortune to meet with in the Ineſ l_ Boat, Eulicy encerning railer Nomen ) que POWEIT Juntary Fad Batavodno theiſm, i We left on the Right- hand, ( three Leagues from Amſterdam )theold Caſtle of * Abcow) with • Abcoudis*GAMES the Village of the ſame Name, where are the opulenta & Il Bounds of the Province of Holland ; and we luftris fuit; enter'd into that of Utrecht. Wecan It was late when (latè auditum ruch ,s we arriv'd in that City, and ſome Circumſtan- trientem A calons en ces of our Affairs, having oblig'd us to leave it, grorum in Tro. almoſt immediately after our Arrival (in hopes jettenfi Ditione of returning) I ſhall not have many Things to buiffe dicitur. Sui Juris ha s offe ſay to you concerning it, at preſent. Eadem poſledit fe , rum Oppidum , cum Arce. Ex hac Affuerus prima Arcis Abcoudie funds Lenoir menta, inter uliginoſas paludes, gus vix in adulta Ætate plauftris acceſſus find out patet , medio in :er Traje&tum & Amftelodamum Itinere, jecit , ut memoriæ pro diderunt Annales. Emit dr Gaesbecanam Ditionem , & c. ( Hadr. Junius, in Batavia ſua.) P.Bertius ſcribit Abbekevolda, pro Abcoudia. This City begins to abate of that extreme Neat- UTRECHT, neſs, we have obſerv'd in all Towns and Villages, formerly - Bing throughout the Province call'd properly Holland, alle an Archa Shoprick ; and tho' it yet retains enough of it. It is ſituated bishoprick. in a higher and better Ground. The Canals and Ditches are chang'd into Hedges; and the Mea dows into Plow'd Fields ; a Change that we find very agreeable. Onemay, I believe, fay that aturale othe Er after D us Ter eject 9 cour, e --- LET " 1 46 A New Voyage Vol. I. mild 320 that the VII. famous United Provinces, are the fulleſt of Towns, and generally the beſt Peo pled, of any Place in Europe ; but I cannot tell whether one may altogether rely upon what Are nold Bckelius, one of the Writers ofChronicles of the Country has written, that one may go from Utrecht on foot in one Day, and viſit Sixty one Towns or Walled Places, that are ſituated up and down in that Neighbourhood. I could wiſh , that Writer had given us the Names of thofe Places ; for 'wemuſt always take care to exagerate Things too much : Excelſive Praiſes generally produce Contempt for the Obje&s we boaſt of, inſtead of gaining an Eſteem for ' em . Here are the very Words of Bechelius. Illud inter alia, fingulare & præcipuum habet Urbs veftra, quòd in eo loco ſita, e locata eft , à quo digreſſis unius tantùm diei Spatio, ad unum do ſexa ginta muratis Oppidis quæ circumjacent, non curru, vel equo vebi tantùm , ſed di pedeſtri itinere contendere, ac pervenire liberum fit ." Another has written, that of theſe 61 Towns to which one may go, there are 33 of 'em that are ſo near Utrecht, that one may return the ſame Day. We viſited the Remains of the Cathedral Church, which was almoſt entirely deſtroy'd fome Years ago by a Prodigious Tempeſt, 1 ſhall be able to ſay ſomething ofthe ſurprizing Parti culars of this Storm , when I am at leiſure. The Tower of that ſame Church is very high, but not ſo high as the People at Utrecht imagine it ; for they have a Nocion in their Heads, that it is the higheſt in the World : Thoſe that have never been abroad, are almoſt all of 'em apt to form fuch wrong Judgments. Monconys ſays , That they go up to the Top of this Tower by 457 Steps ; ſuppoſe that one of theſe steps is half a fooi high, that does not make but a little ز more Vol. I. to ITALY 47

more than a Third- part of the Height of the Pyramid of Strasbough : And how many Stee ples have we, that are much higher than the Tower at Utrecht, in France , and in England, without going out of our own Countries to ſearch after em ? This Tower was begun, ſay the Chronicles of John de Beka, in the Year 1320. and finiſh'd in the Year 1362. according to ſome, į and 138 3. according to others. The Inſcription upon that Tower, (in two Latin Verſes whoſe firſt cannot be ſcan'd , mark the Year 1321. ( M., C.ter, X. bis, de ſemel 1. ) as being that of the Foundation 3, but without any further de claration of the Matter. M.C. ter X. bis : Semel I. Fejto Paulique Johannis Turris adaptatur, quá Traje&tum decoratør. They carried us alſo to another Church,which is dedicated to S. Mary ; where we took notice of the Figure of an Ox, againſt a Pillar, above which is written . Accipe, Pofteritas, quod per tria ſæcula narres : Taurinis cutibus fundo ſolidata Columna eft. That is a Memorial, they ſay, of the Cun ning Contrivance of an Architect, who deli ver'd thoſe that built this Church , from the great perplexity they were in, in relation to this very place when theirPiles, notwithſtanding their great Length, could not reach any ſolid Foundation . This Architea ,ſay theſe Verſes, ( for lown I don't underſtand well the Affair ) found a Way to make a ſolid Foundation in this Gulf withouta Bottom, wich ſome Oxes Hides. Taurinis cutibus fundo ſolidata columna est :( Tranſeat.) There are very curious Reličks in this Church, as the Church 48 A New Voyage Vol. I. Churchwarden told us. Among the reſt,a Smock of the Virgin Mary's, which they have carefully preſerv'd and ; other Things of this Nature ; but which, to ſpeak the Truth, they eſteem for the preſent, but as Pieces of Curioſity. The Walk of the Pall- Mail is very fine ; and thoſe of Utrecht eſteem it the more, becauſe it was ſpar'd by ſpecial Orders of the King of France ( now reigning ) when he came at the Head of his Army into that City, ſome Years ago ; tho' almoſt every thing elſe was deſtroy'd by that Army in the Neighbourhood. This City was adorn'a with the Title of Uni verſity,Ann.1639. And they alſo perform all sorts of Exerciſes, as Riding the Great Horſe, & c. which draws abundance of young Gentlemen to that City, which is otherwiſe very alluring upon Account of its good Air, and fine Situation. I was told , that the Library is a little neglected, and that it has not deſerv'd , for ſome Time, the Name of Bibliotheque Publique, ſince it has not been open'd at fet Hours, for the Uſe of the Publick. To ſpeak freely, they deſerve highly to be reproach'd , who, by ſuch Negligences, deprive Men of Letters offo great an Advan- . tage and Affittance. The Elogium on Sodomy, written by 7. Caſa, Biſhop of Benevento , was, as they inform’d me, one of the curious Pieces of this Library. I know not, it what they added be true, that the French carried this Rarity away, when they came to viſit Utrecht, as I have ob ſerv'd to you already, in the Year 1672 . The happy * Union concluded here in the laſt Age ; ( 1579 ) which is the Bond and tye of

• The Articles of this famous Union have been publiſh'd on ſeveral Occaſions. But they are to be found, with an Addition of leveral Political Reflections , in Sir William Temple's Re mares on the State of ihe United Provinces.

the Vol . I. to ITALY 49 the Republick , will for ever be an Honour to this City ; and perhaps, the greateſt it has had, or can expect to have. The Republick being reſolv'd never more to ſubmit to Spain ( whoſe -Yoke they had ſhook off ) firſt were willing to put chemſelves under the Protection of France, and afterwards of England ( of Henry III. and Elizabeth) having need, as they thought then , when Philip II was enraged againſt’em , ofſome powerfulProtection , ſuch as one of thoſe two. But the Event has demonſtrated, that nothing better could have happen'd to 'em , than remain ing Maſters of themſelves, Providence having pour'd out in Abundance his choiceſt Bleſſings on theſe Happy and Glorious Provinces. I took a Turn round the City, view'd it on every ſide, and can ſay it pleas'd me extreamly. If it was not the Neceſſity that obliges me to finiſh this Letter in haft , I wou'd ſend you wil lingly a Latin Ode made in its Praiſe, that a Friend of mine ſhew'dme laſt Night, and which perhaps you have not ſeen . o Gentis Batava Regia Splendida Quis non ſuſcipiat te, atque Situm tuum, Intus li Spatietur Aut foris per Agros tuos ! Circumflette oculos, quifquis es ! &c. This very Day the7th of Decemb.M.DCC.XI, now wbile I am buſie in reviſing this Sheet, for a new Edition of theſe Letters, I bear that the QUEEN bas juſt now declar'd to both Houſes of Parliament, ibat the City of Utrecht is nam’d, by Her Majeſty's Conſent, asthe Place appointed for a Treaty of Peace. Tho' a happy Succeſsof theſe Conferences maybe look'd upon as very doubtful, conſidering the preſent Circum Jiances of ſeveral Things; yet pris not neceſſary we E ſhould DCC.X . 50 A New Voyage Vol.I. wubich you fhould deſpair of it : Qui nihil poteft ſperare, ſays Seneca, defperet nihil. However, up:n this agree abie News, I have a Mind to add bere , a Surt of a Congratulation , to the Fair and good City of Utrecht ( which receives new Luſtre from this E vent) by joyning ſome new Hiſtorical Obſervations, to the Remarks I bave formerly made upon it, and you bave juſt now read. Thoſe that publish Deſcriptions of Cities, generally endeavour to praiſe ' em, in order to pleaſe their Inhabitants : And theſe Writers ne ver fail to infilt upon the noble Article of the Antiquity of theſe Places, as upon a glorious Title for them , tho' they find never ſo little Reaſon or Colour to do it. 'Tis thus that ſe veral Authors have exalted (tho' not grounded enough ) the great Antiquity of Utrecht. They have carried the Date of its Foundation farther than they ought, without remembring that falſe Praiſes turn to the Diſgrace of thoſe whom we boaſt of, rather than to their Honour. When Philip II, came to Utrecht, the Magiſtrate caus'd this infcription to be fix'd upon the Gare , hrough which he made his Entry. ANTONINI PII IMP. FELICIBUS AUSPICIIS URBS TRAJECTENSIS INSTALÄRATA ; FELICIORIBUS PER PIENTISS. IMP. CAROLUM V. AUCTA : FELICISSIMAM SE HOC PRINCIPE FUTUR AN1 HAUD DUBLA SPE CONFIDIT. And William Paradin relates two other Infcri ptions in Verſe, that he has ſeen in the Cathe dral Vol. 1. to ITALY. 51 dral- Church at Utrecht, in which are expreſs'd ſe veral other Hiſtorical Particularities, concerning the Foundation of this City and Church. Tho' theſe Verſes are bad enough in all Reſpects, yet ſince they were thought worthy to be plac'd as Monuments in a Church , I ſhall not do an un reaſonable Thing in putting'em here : And in order to explain 'em in ſome Meaſure; I will add as a Comment on ' em, che Subſtance of what three or four Annaliſts of that Country, have written on the ſame Subject ; whether in criti ciſing on the Faas that theſe Verſes contain , or approving of ' em. any ancient TRAJECTUM CIVIT AS, Circumquaque fluens Hollandia gurgite Rheni Cingitur ; Oceano, Fluminibuſque Maris. In qua cumMuris Urbs (a) Antonina novellis, Tempore (b) Neronis ædificata fuit. (dem Hanc devaftavit (c) fera Gens, (d ) Flammaq; d ibi- (a), The City Caftrum ( e) Vuiltorum conditur inde nouum of Utreche is never cald Turribus excelſis : quod adbuc Plebs ( f) Abroditorum Antonina mer Funditus evertens diruit ufque Solum : Antonia, by Buthor. Theſe are new Names, which perhaps were given by ſome Conque tors or Reſtorers, lay John de Beka, and William Heda his Commentator ( who was Dean of Ucreche. ) ( b) They have made a Thouſand Effures to find Put, or 10 Suppoſe fome Founder of the Name of Antoninus, or Antonius,br eiſz of Antonia ; but all to no purpoſe. Junius Jaw tha: Si comminiſci aliquid licerto à vero non abfimile, recurrendum eſſet vel ad Antonium primum Senatorem & Legatum Vefpafiani, cui cum Civili Bucavo amicitia tue Tat ; quemque Senatoriâ Dignicate exutum à Nerone , ac falli da m natum, priftinum inde reſtitutum Ordini & Loco memorac Tacirus . V.1 ad M, Antonium Julii Cæſ. Legacum , &c . Vel ad M. Antoninum Pium , to. But after all, He reje &ts thele Conjecturis. ( c) Nortmannorum pro cella ab axe Boreali effufa, hatic Urbemn excidio corrupit, omnemque Sexum ferro abfuinplit, Alfridi præfulis Tempo: c. ( circa Annum 83+ ) ( d) The Writers of Chronicles note ibe Years of ſeveral other great Burnings . ( e) We shall speak of theſe Vultes by and by. ( f) call'd alſo Abocriti . Gers Francis fæderata , Says Junius. E 2 Hinc > 52 A New Voyage Vol. I. (g) He means Hinc Trajectenſe Caſtrum , cum Mænibus altis Dagobert I. Conditur'a (g ) Francis Cbriſticolis. Sed idem ( b ) Thofe Ais mies of the Vulgus ( h) Danorum confregit humo tenus : Omnes North which Cum Clero Cives infimulEnſe necant. has been jpoken Denique (i) Baldricus Præful nove Mænia ſtruxit of, Ex Axe Quæ modò ſubſiſtunt, auxiliante Deo. Boreali effu fi, kave ofecneSic Hollandenfi Terræ veraciter omni ravag'd theſe Trajectum conſtat Urbs (k) Capitalis adbuc. Countries. ( i ) Son of the Count de Cleves, and the 15th Biſhop of Utrecht. (k) One of the principal Cities of ihe Country, and of which the Biſhop, Prince of the Empire, was a pretty Powerful Lord, when theſe Verſes were ſet up as a Monu ment in the great Church. TEMPLUM CATHEDRAL E. ( a ) Several Tempore Francorum (a) Dagoberti Regis, in iſto have writt692 Præfenti fundo conditur ipfa decens that Dugo ., Primitus Eccleſia fanéti( b ) Thomæ : (c) prope Caftrum birt built the Cathedral Trajectum , quam Gens (d ) Phriſica fregit atrox. Church at the Sel ( e) prior Antiſtes Dominus ( f) Clemens,ob honorem Jane time that San £li (g) Martini, post renovavit eam the City was ; Defidis Hildrici ſub tempore Regis. At illam But that is very riafonn. Præful (h) Adelbeldus fregit ; ab inde novam Kly contradi- Eccleſiam fundans, ( Henrici tempore (i ) primi ited by o : bers. Cæfaris electi,) quam (k ) duodena cohors ( b ) Some be- Pontificum pariter benedixit. Denique Præful lieve, that from that ( 1 ) Henricus cæpit hanc renovare ſuam time, St.Mar. Ecclefiam , Regis ( m) Gulielmi tempore. Quifnam ? tin was joind Hollandenfiserat inclytus ifte Cómes. 10 St Thomas. ( c) Wemust obſerve the word prope, as it ſhall be ſaid afterwards. ( d) Frieſe Band (both Eaſt and Welt bad forineriy its Dukes ( call'd alſo Kings ) and thoſe Princes were often at War with the Neighbouring Lords. Charlemagne conquerid em at lall, and reduced their Countries into a Province. ( øgelooi, apud Dio . nem , Ignaoi & dcphacı ; Ptolom . ) (e) Willibrordus, fir A Biſhop of Utrecht; fome ſay Arch -biſhop. Hewas an Anglo -Saxon , and came into that Country, during theTime that Pepin the Younger made War upon Ratbodus, Duke or King of Friſeland , an laolatrous Prince. Pepin ſent him to Rome in the Tear 694 whore Pope Sergius charg'd his Name into that of Clement, as it is to be ſeen in the ſame Verſe. Athis Return, in 696, they pretend be rebuilt the Cathedral. Marcellinus, a Prieſt who was bis Contemporary, has writiex his 6 Life. i Vol. I. to ITALY 53 Life. ( f) Tho' Sergius kad given him the Name of Clement, he was fill call'd Willibrord . (g) St. Martin of Tours (whoſe Life hasbeen wristen by Sulpitius Severus). Gregory of Tours ſays that this Marcin was of Sa baria or Savaria , a Town concerning which, ancient Authors write variouſly ; ſome placing it in Auſtria, and others (more commonly ) in Hungary. He came to Milan, and from thence to Tours. He was, ſay they, a great Worker of Miracles : He rais'd three Perſons from the Dead ; and died aged 8 1 Years, towards the End of the fourth Century. He was Patron of the whole Diociſe, but they gave him Thanks for his former Protection ,and took his Name out of the City. Seal, when the Biſhop Henry of Bavaria reſign’d the Temporalities of his Bia haprick to the Emperor Charles V, as will be öbferu'd bereafter. (h ) Namid allo Adrobaldus, a Friſelander, and the Nineteenth Biſhop ; towards the Year 1020: He pull'd down the Church, which was fallen into Decay, and rebuilt it. ( i ) Bertius Jays, Henry II ; and indeed, Henry I , callid the Fowler, died in 936, a long time before that. (k) Bercius reports, that Twelve Biſhops allifted at the Ceremony of the Confecration of this Church. ( 1 ) Henry of Vi ana , the 38th Biſhop , rebuilt the Church new from the Ground : that which we noso ſee, is the Remains of it . This Biſhop died in 1267. (m) Williama Colent of Holland was created Emperor in 1248 , and died in 1257 . Adrian Junius, a Phyſician of Horn in West Friſeland, who wrote his Batavia in 1575 ) does not believe , as I have already remark'd, that the City of Utrecht was ever call’d either Antonia or Antonina , by any ancient Author ; but he does not deny in one Senſe, that it has not been callid formerly, Vultabourg or Wilter bourg, ashaving been built by the Vultes, which he alſo Names Wiltes. I fay, that he reconciles that Matter pretty well, provided it be granted him ,that Utrecht which is now in Being,hasbeen buile, at more than two Leagues from that Wil tenbourg ; for he aſſures us, That this Caſtelum , formerly deſtroy'd by the Abotriti (or the Abro diti, of whom there is mention made in the Verſes at the Cathedral) was two German Miles from the Place, where we now ſee Utrecht : ut ipſe, ſays he, Oculis afpexi. He adds, That others believe, that Dagobert ,Son to KingClotaire II, laid the Foundations of Utrecht, in the 7th Centu sy , and callid it Traje&tum , becauſe there was a Paſſage there from the Rbine, and a Cuftong E 3 Houſe 54 A New Voyage Vol. 1 . Houſe ,or a Toll- Booth : but he is notofthat Opi nion, becauſe he holds it for certain , ( againſt Fobn de Beka) that the City of Utrecht, bore che Name of Traje&tum in the Itinerary of Antoninus, a long While before Dagobert's Time. Others have imagin'd , ſays 7 unius alſo , that the fa mous Ulpius Trajan, who was Prefect at that Time in Germany, under Domitian, had found ed this ſame City , and call'd it by his own Name, Ulpia Trajičtina ( inſtead of Trajana ) and that froin Ulp - Trajectina, was form’d Ultrajectum ; .but neither does Junius agree with this Opi nion, which is certainly abſurd ; and here is what he finds more probable : This Antiquary having obſerv'd that the City of Utrecht is nam'd Utricefium and Utriceſima , by Lambertus Horten fius, and ſome others , he was very inclinable to believe, that the modern Name of Utrecht, is nothing but a Contraction of Utricefium , mark'd by the firſt Letters , which are UTRIC. And as for the Name of Urriceſium , what he thinks of it , is , that as the ignorant common People may have ſeen the Words, or the follow ing Letters ingraven on the Gates, or in ſome other Place of the City, U. TRIC . LEG . STAT. to fignify, Quintæ Triceſimæ Legionis Stariva, will at firſt read it UTRIC, without minding the Stop ( perhaps effac'd ) which ought to be at the Side of the Numeral Letter U. and without in forming any farther about the two Syllables that follow : And that from this UTRIC ill un derſtood, and turn'd into a Cuſtom , was form'd the Name of Utrecht, us'd at this preſent Time. There are, methinks, two or three Reaſons to be alledged againſt this Suppoſition : however 'cis what Iunius ſticks to ; and to maintain his Conjecture, he relates a Fact juſt like it, that be had from a learned German Antiquary, nam'd Jobs a Vol. I. to ITALY 55 Whi Jobn Heroldus. This Author remarks in his Cu rious Obſervations, ſays Junius , That the Town of CANTSTAT in Suabia, took its Name from LEG. ANT. STAT. words formerly Ingraven upon a Piece of Marble, and expos’d to Pub- ' lick View in the ſame Town ; which ſignified, Legionis Antoniana Stativa.. The two firſt Let ters, L E being worn out, there remain'd GANT STAT, and from that Gantſtat read without any Points, the G being chang'd into C, the com mon People made Cantftat. William Heda, Arnold Bekelius and Lamb. Hortenſius, are of the Number of thoſe, who, wichout much Conſideration , have ſaid that Utrecht had anci ently born the Name of Antonina, and Antonia, ( which is a Sort of a Contradi & ion ) but they cannot find a Reaſon for it, any more than Junius. And P. Bertius, a very learned Man, poſitively denies the Fact, as well as Fohn de Beka ; Sunt equidem , ſays Bertius , qui Antoniam initio diet am putent ;; ſed non video, unde boc ha beant.--- Antoniam iftam neque ſummi, negue medii Ævi Scriptor quiſquam novit. Quocirca, pro fabu la illud haben dum cenfeo. Venerable Bede, and Sigebert the Writer of Chro nicles , makes ſome mention alſo of a Vultua bourg, a Caſtle upon the Rhine, that was con monly callid Trajectum , ſay they, Lingua Gal lica. A very ſtrange thing , as I may ſay by the By, that theſe Writers ſhould not know , that the Word Trajectum was neither Gauliſh , nor French , but Latin. But theſe two Authors were very far from giving us any Hint of the Etymo logy of the new word Utrecht, ſince it was not uſed in their time. Heda without going any far ther, will have it from Outriecht, which in good German ſignifies the Ancient Pallage ; Trajectum vetus . Others derive Utrecht from Vult-trajectum , E4 as 56 A New Voyage Vol. I. ز as Vultarum Trajectum . Some, as I have already ſaid , from Ulp-Trajectum , ab Ulpio Trajano. And others again , from ultra or ulterius Traje&tum , with relation to Trajectum Superius, callid Mae ftricht , or Moje Trajectum. As for what Heda and Junius affirm with Bertius, that this City is mention'd by the Name of Trajectum in Antoni nus's Itinerary, it is a very doubtful Thing i; ſince it is certain , as it has been obſerv'd by Bee kelius, that ſeveral Modern Cities have been in diſcreetly plac'd in that ancient Itinerary, by the different Editors of that Book, in the laſt Ages. This Bekelius proves" clearly ; and me thinks, it is very probable, that Conrad Peutinger, who is an exact Man, has look'd upon this Tra jećłum of Antoninus's Itinerary, as having been falſely inſerted, ſince he has not put it down in his Tables. All unanimouſly agree; That the City of U trecht having been ſeveral Times beſieg’d, plun der'd, burnt, and almoſt deftroy'd, Biſhop Bal tric of Cleves rebuilt it almoſt entirely , and encompaſs'd it with Walls, towards the Year 970. It never ſuffer'd more, than by the ter rible Diſorders that the Civil Wars occaſion'd in the Time of the Hicecks and Cabelliaus ; Cruel Factions, by which the whole Country was laid wafte with Fire and Sword , towards the Mid dle of the Fourteenth Century. ( Hoex fignifies Fiſh -hook ; and Cabelliau is the Name of a very common Fiſh in the Seas of Holland ; 'tis ' a ſort of Cod -lih, chat John de Beka calls Aſellus. We have no Reaſon to believe that the City of Utrecht was ever larger than it is at preſent: funius ſharply reproves Dominick Niger, for aſlu ring us, that this City was able to furniſh , in its grandour, forty Thouſand fighting Men ; and he alſo refuſes to hear Volaterran , Aneas Sylvius, . Vol. I. to ITALY: 57 Ar. M III 9 , و li te : Sylvius, Barlandus and others, that ſay that the Biſhopcould raiſe that Number of Soldiers with in his Dioceſs. Lambert Hortenfius, whom we have often al ready quoted, has written , according to Ra phael Volaterran, that formerly there was a Sea Port at Utrecht ; which is not at all impro bable, as ſome have thought, who only conſis dering the preſent Diſpoſition of the Ground, and the Diſtance from the Sea, have not remem ber'd that in the Times paft, a great Arm of the Rbine ran through Utrecht. Why ſhould we not then eaſily comprehend, that Veſſels might come up the Rhine as far as this City , and a great deal higher ; as we ſee it happens all theWorld over; and at Rotterdam , for Example, without going out of the ſame Country ? The ſame Writer quotes ſome Authors that ſay, that Utrecht owes its Origine to certain Eng lib Giants that fettled in that Place : A Fable, that certainly has its Source in certain An nals that Junius cites, upon another Occaſion , in which we find that the Anglo- Saxons having made themſelves Maſters of Great Britain, a valt Number of the Natives of that Ife (who were of a Gigantick Stature ) left their conquer'd Country , and croſſing the Seas, came and fer tied upon theBanks of the Maeſe and the Rhine ; and from theſe fugitiveGiants, ſprung the Vultes ( hairy as Bears) thoſe whom we have mention'd already, whobuilt the Town and Caſtle nam'd Vultenbourg , which many coufound with our Utrecht. Twould be no very glorious Thing to be the Iſſue of thoſe Grand Poltroons, if the Hi ſtory were true; and if otherwiſe, it would be to deny the Trajectum of the Itinerary , and its pretended Antiquity ; for the Saxons did not ſettle of 58 A New Voyage Vol. I. ſettie in England, till a great way in the Fifth Century After all theſe Uncertainties concerning the Foundation of Utrecht, and alſo the Etymology of its Name ( from whence one may only con clude, that ' tis impoflible to depend upon anyof thoſe things that be certain ) we muſt ſay fome thing alſo of the great Church , beſides what has been already remark'd in the Notes upon the Las tin Verſes. Some will have it built by Dagobert : others, by Willibrordus the Firſt Biſhop (or Arch biſhop, according to Beda :) and others, by Boni face the Second Biſhop : all that falſely, ſince the Churches or Chappels built perhaps by thoſe Perſons, have nothing in common with that we ſee now ſtanding. As for King Dagobert, we muſt ſcarce mind any ſuch thing that has been ſaid of him ; for as Du Tillet has very well obſerv'd , the Monks have attributed to him Abundance of thoſe Sorts of Foundations, under pretence of his •* Afin que par being Pious, * to the end, ſays this Author, that by Adularion, & Flattery and high Commendations, they may drawcon par Haute fiderable Riches from other Princes, by way of Emu louer, ils at. Yation . In thoſe Times the Monk's Benefactors ciraffent à eux finement feldom fail'd of being made Saints. To give to mainte & the Priets, was the moſt ſure Way to Salvation : mainte Ric that was call ? d Remedium pro Anima. And we fee chelle, par E mulation. now a- days, that this ancient Mode is in faſhion enough here, and every where. The greateſt Benefices are always the beſt ; and as St. Peter ſays, aig ponegoto's 678oxoney, is the general Cuſtom in all Times. It has already been obferv'd, that they differ allo, about the Name of the Saint, to whom that Church was dedicated : Some add the Holy Croſs to St. Martin in the ſecond Confecration . But in reſpect of the Founders, to ſpeak the Truth, the Vol. I. * to ITALY. 59 the Church which is now ftanding, in part, is neither Dagobert's , Willibrord's, nor Boniface's. We may very well believe, without any Abſur dity , thar theſe three built fome Chappel or Church , at Wiltembourg , if they were there ; (which difficult Point wecan't eaſily reſolve: )but as for this Church,whoſe Remains are now to be ſeen at Utrecht, ' tis a Building, that wasbegun from the Foundations, by Biſhop Henry of Viana, as it has already been obſerv'd, towards the Year 1254 ; and it was Frederick of Zireck , the Forty third Biſhop, that began the high Tower,(which is now remaining, and of which I have ſpoken ) in the Year 1320, or thereabouts. + I ſay, that at preſent, we ſee nothing but + ' Tis juftfo the Remains of the Cathedral of Utrecht , this of st. Paul's Church having been almoſt quite deſtroy'd in which they are at , our Time, by an extraordinary Tempeft, as itnow finiſhing , has been already obſerv'd . I have it from a and which has Perſon who wasan Eye-witneſs of it, andvery from the very worthy of Belief, that the greateſt part of the Foundations Roof, Timber -work, and all theCovering, were upon the Ru taken off, and lifted up ſome diſtance into the ins of the for Air; remainingſo a little Time, by the Strength mer, which , was deſtroy.d of the Wind : after which, falling down with by Fire in the great Imperuofity it burſt, as one may imagine, Tear 1666 . with a terrible Noiſe. The Body of the Church, This New between the Quire and the Tower, was entire- Church has ly deſtroy'd, ſo that that Space is at preſent Common with nothing in empty. A Man of Quality and Worth ( Sir Wil- the former ,but liam T.) who, I think, was in Holland at that Time, the place and has written that the Tempeſt was ſo violent, Name. that it twiſted the Columns of Stone that fup poſtedthe Arches of the Nave of the Church, after ſuch a manner , that they ſtill remain twiſted , and have rather chang'd their Figure, than to be broken in pieces, they being ſo very Strong and well cemented ; His own Words are , ز The 60 A New Voyage Vol. I. The great and ancient Cathedral was torn in pieces by ibe Violence of this Storm, and the vaſt Pillars of Stone that ſupported it , were wreath'd like a twiſted Cord, ( or Halter) baving been so ftrangely compos’d and cemented as rather to ſuffer ſuch a Change of Figures, than to break in pieces, as otherparts ofthe Fabrick did. I would not ſpend any Time here, in diſa puting this Fact with the Author that has re lated it, if it was not becauſe of ſeveral confi derable Perſons of Utrecht, that have mention'd it to me , and are all in the ſame Error ; with out conſidering, that what theyaffirm is phyſically impoſible, for two Reaſons : Firſt, becauſe no Matter that is not malleable, ductile, or flexible, can ever be twiſted. We can never twiſt a Stone, nor make the leaſt of its Parts yield , in pre tending to twine, or wreath them : It is abſo lutely neceſſary ,that the Parts which are oblig'd to yield to force, in a Matter that is not pliant, be ſeparated from the reſt, by a Rupture pro perly ſo call’d. Now theſe Columns were of Stone ; and though they had been of theſe Compoſitions that are formed in a Mould , and which ſeveral improperly call Fufible , this matter would not have been more capable of being twiſted, than that of Stone or Marble. But in the ſecond Place , if the Columns that we are now ſpeaking of, had been of Lead, they could not be twiſted, each about its Center by the Tempeſt, whoſe force endeavoured (let us ſup poſe it ,) to twiſt the Church . Suppoſe the Body of that Edifice had been turned from its Foun dations by the violence of a Whirlwind, that had moved it about its Center , as a Spindle is turn’d , it follows that all the Columns, that ſuſtained it at ſome diſtance from each other; would have been broken in pieces, or at leaſt fallen down : But it is abſurd, to imagine that 7 1 every Vol. I. to ITALY 61 everyone ofthoſe Columns were twiſted by ſach an Éffort ; which way foever the thing may be taken. The great Violence of this Storm lafted about twenty Minutes. Some Perſons have told me, That the Jews have offer'd to rebuild the Church , provided , they would grant them at Utrecht the ſame Liberty that their Brethren en joy at Amſterdam . 'Tis ſomewhat Singular, that of the 62 Bi ſhops that have kept their See at Utrecht, for near nine hundred Years, there is none but the firſt and the laſt, to whom they have given the Title * Father of of Archbiſhop. Willibrordus wasſent, ſay the Charles Mar. Writers of Chronicles, by * Pepin de Herſtal,tel. ( called alſo the Groſs, and the Young) to Pope Ser- † Hewas a gius the Firſt : And venerable Bede, who wasCon - good Man . He temporary to both of them , relates poſitively , in hiemanda very Old That thePope made him Archbiſhop (in the Year Aery of Ab 696.) Miſit Pipinus Virum Venerabilem Willibror- fternacum , dum Romam , cujus Pontificatum Sergius habebat, nowcalled ( poſtulans ut Friſonum Genti ARCHIEPISCOPUS Echternach ) about 5 Miles ordinaretur ; quod impletum est , Anno 696. ( Beda from Treves, de Geſtib. Angl. L. V. C. 12.) And ſeveral Wri-'where he re ters have followed Beda. But the Prieſt Maré tired to finiji cellinus, who was alſo his Contemporary, and has bis Days in written the Life of Willibrordus with whom he a great Con lived , does not call him Archbiſhop : Neither verter of Poor does Sigebert de Gemblours give him any more than gasand called the Title of Biſhop. † Willibrordus, ſays hein upon that are his Chronicle, a Sergio Papa Clemens agnominatus, ternæ Lucis count, Sempi & ad prædicandum Genti Friſonum EPISCOPUS Filius. They confecratus est. And how could People think, Say also, that that the Succeſſors of an Archbiſhop, would take a great ligbe Now upon them only the Name of a Biſhop ? No- appears in bie thing is more improbable. Tomb ; tbat the Stones ofit heave up , and that he works abundance of Miracles there. But as able Divines do not abſolutely deny Miracles , so they do not eaſily believe them : Cheats, and Credulous People, being the Perſons that generally make them. As Peace. He w MS 62 A New Voyage Vol. I. 3 As for the Sixty -ſecond and laſt Biſhop of Utrecht, Frederick - Skenck Baron of Tautenbourg, (who was choſen in the Year 1561 , and died in 1580, ) I do not find any body that denies that Paul IV, Pope of Rome, made him an Arch biſhop ; tho the pretended Biſhops of Utrecht, (in Partibus, according to their Language) that have ſucceeded this Frederick, ſince the Revolu tion of Affairs in that Country, have contented themſelves with the Title of Biſhop. Theſe, to mention it by the By, are ſuffer'd in Holland, provided they do not ſpeak in Pub lick of their pretended Biſhoprick , tho' at the fame time, the Magiſtrates are not ignorant of their ſecret Pretention : The Mildneſs of the Go vernment is ſo great, that it never diſturbs that Gentleman upon any account, when he does not go out of his Sphere. But they will not ſuffer him to refide at Utrecht ; and if he obtains the Li berty of ſtaying there a few Days (upon his fup poſed civil Affairs) that Liberty is not granted to the Biſhop,as Biſhop,butto Peter or Fobn ſuch a one : And if he comes thither without Leave, or ſtays beyond the Time granted him, he would be re primanded for it . So that, properly ſpeaking, the States General are ignoranr, or will be ignorant, that there is a Biſhop of Utrecht in the World. This Prelate was formerly a Prince of the Empire, and powerful enough. Pope Calixtus II, granted them the Myter, and the Infula Pontificia in the Year 1120 , and the Emperor Otho I, the Privilege of Coining Money :The Counts of Holland owed ' em Homage. But fome Time before the great Revolution, under Philip II King of Spain , theſe Prelates were already de clined in their Primitive Grandour , as well as their Ancient Power. Biſhop Henry of the Houſe of Bavaria, whoſe Affairs went ill, was oblig'd to . Vol. I. to I TAL Y. 63 . 11 3 to reſign his Temporal Government in favour of Charles the Fifth, (in the Year 1529 , ) at che Pope's Sollicitationli, under pretence that theſe Biſhops were not rich enough to defend the City and Dioceſs from the Inſults chat ſome Enemies were capable of making upon them : of which truth Charles himſelf gave a certain Proof. Henry conſented then to what he could not hinder ; and reſerved only to himſelf the Spiri cual Government , his Houſe in the City , and a little Country Houſe, with a Penſion of2000 Carolus's of Gold ; which is pretty near the Plat that the Court of Rome allows to poor Cardi dinals. Henry, at firſt , made as if he was very well contented ;and the Bull of Pope Clement the VIlth , gilded the Pill that they made him ſwallow ;; but he ſoon repented his having been ſo eaſy ; and the Condition of his fleec'd Bi Shoprick beginning to diſpleaſe him, he took a Reſolution to return into Germany. Bertius is miſtaken , when he writes in his Catalogue of the Biſhops of Utrecht, that this Refignation was made by Biſhop William , Cardinal d'Enkenvoert, Succeſſor to the ſame Henry, and the Sixtieth Bifhop The Church that is dedicated to St. Mary, of which I have ſpoken ( and in which the Eng lijh. are ſettled at Utrecht ) was built, accor ding to ſome, by the Emperor Frederick Í, call'd Barbaroſla ; the Pope having impoſed this Pe nance on him for having ſacked Milan. But the general Opinion attributes the Foundation of this very Church to Biſhop Conrad of Suabia, the twenty - ſecond Biſhop of Utrecbt, who was. aſfaffinated towards the Year 1092, about Sixty Years before Frederick was choſen Emperor, All Hiſtorians confirm what I have formerly ob ferved upon the Article of Utrecht concerning the A New Voyage Vol. I. the Oxen's Hides upon which one Part of this E difice is founded : and the greateſt Part of them relate alſo the two Latin Verſes of the Canon Scorelius, that may be ſeen upon a Pillar ; Accipe, Pofteritas, &c. They ſay that a certain Maſon, named Pleberus , engaged upon his Life that he would find out a certain Method to remedy the Inconveniency of a Galph which they ac cidentally found in one of the Places where the Church was to be founded , for a good Sum of Money which was promiſed him ; and that the Biſhop being unwilling to give him ſo much , he bethought himſelf how to Suborn this Man's Son, and to get the Secret out of him : So that they made uſe of theſe Hides of Oxen, without any further Application to the ſaid Pleberus. But this Fellow being inraged atſuch Uſage ,reveng'd himſelf by killing the Biſhop with a Knife, in his own Bed. (8. ante Kal. Maii, An . 1099.) That poor Biſhop is interr'd in the ſame Church . a Mobilis Æfonide, vernáque incertior Aurå Cur tua Polliciti pondere verba Carent ? (Ovid. ) Beſides the Smock of our Lady, that Induſium inconfutile of fine Muſlin which has been already mentioned, (and of which the like I have ſeen at Argenteuil near Paris ; ) they keep in this Church ſeveral Reliques, amongſt which , Pietro Fellori formerly boaſted very much of a little Bottle of rock Cryſtal about the Bigneſs of a Pidgeon's Egg, in which they carefully kept ſmall particles of the Waters of St. Urſula, and of all the Eleven Thouſand Virgins that accompanied her. Certainly this Relique was a great Curioſity ; it being very difficult to imagine how it could be made to have gathered 11000 particles of all thoſe pre cious Liquors. But he that ſhews theRarities of this Church Vol. I. to ITALY. 65 3 Church at Utrecht affirms with Sincerity, that he has never heard a word ſpoken of this Vial, or what was contain'd in it. Are the Gens Papicola, ſaid he to us , becomeſo ridiculous about the Buſineſs of Reliques , that the Devotees amongſt them , who are always in ſearch after new Pilgrims with offering new curious Objects to their Wiſhes, find themſelves in Power, as well as Right, to invent Reliques of all forts. It was not an ill Thought to this Man ; but it may alſo happen that P. Fellori, who was a Sicilian Prieſt, did not deſign to ſpeak of U trecht, which he knew very little of, when he ſaid that this Relique was kept in a German City named Antonina, Nella Chieſa di Santa Maria : For this Expreſſion is not clear enough, and does not neceſſarily mean the City of Utrecht. The fame Sexton told us he thought he cou'd find too ſome ſmall pieces which were formerly ſaid to be of the Holy Handkerchief ; of the Spunge, of the Croſs, and of the Scourging Poft. He ſhewed us two little brazen Idols ; three pretended Uni corn's Horns ; and ſeveral ancientChurch Books very well preſerved and bound, both in Print and Manuſcripts. They never fail at Utrecht, to ſhew Strangers the Houſe of Pope Adrian VI, Son of one nam'd Florent Boyen , a Brewer in that City ; and I think, the beſt Man that ever bore the Name of Pope, (under the Idea that we have had of that Name theſe Ten laſt Centuries , for it was formerly à Term that all Biſhops gave one another ; as alſo they gave themſelves the Title of Beatitude and Holineſs. ) This excellent Man diftinguish'd himſelf from his Youth, by his Merit and Learning ; and he aſcended the Papal Throne, by all sorts of De grees of Honour ; not only without having earneſtly ſought after them , but with ſome F * Relu 6 66 A New Voyage Vol.I. 1 + Reluctancy. We ought to fuppoſe, confider * --- . JeDeclarobar invitum ingtheCandour of his character, that his Sen recufantem ad timents concerning the principal controverted Pontificatum Tenets, were pretty near the ſame with thoſe venille ; that are commonly received by the Romißh Sect priva tam multò fib;for, conſidering the Principles of blind Submit fuiffe chario- fion, which are eſtabliſhed amongſt thoſe Chri rem :Sed metu ſtians, the ſtrangeſt Doctrines, not to ſay the Numinis Di moſt abſurd , muſt be receiv'd by their Men of mini -pre. Wit, aswell asby others : The Doctorand the , do ſenti rerum Statu commo. Collier muſtequally believe the Council. How tum, non po- ever, though Adrian oppos'd Luther, ſeveral Bi tuiſe curam banc do onus gots of that Catholick Religion believ'd they had al se demum found out that he favour'd him : an Affair rejicere, into which I ſhall not enter here. But how Solo defiderio ever , it is certain that this good Prelate highly confulendi in medium , † complain’d of the very great Diſorders, and Reipubl.procu- crying Abuſes that were crept, ſaid he, in great randi falutem . Number into the Court of Rome , and every Sleidan. L. where throughout its vaſt Empire . He freely Rel. & Reip. own'd that Popes might Err as well as other Men ; and that ſeveral of them had juſtly de + Negue hoc bos ſerv'd the Name of Hereticks ; which was the diſimulandum, Occaſion that he himſelf was treated as one, by aut filentio prætereundum eſſe, aiebat ille, Dium videlicet , Vindicem omnis Iniquitatis affligere ad hunc modum Ecclefiam fuam , propier Populi, maximè verò, pro pter eorum peccata qui PRÆSUNT ECCLESIIS ; cùm Scriptura dicat A SA . CERDOTIBUS INIQUITATEM POPULI DIMANARE. Nam , certò, plurimis nunc Annis graviter multifque modis peccatum eſ ? Romæ ; & inde, « PONTI. FICIO CIJL MINE, malum hoc, aiq, LUEM adinferiores OMNES Ecclefiarum Prefecios deftruxilé. NEMINEM fé qui fuum faciat Munns ; aberraſſe omnes, de ne unum quidem ex omni numero vacare culpă. Quod cùm ita fit ,dari urum Se operam , ui Respublica Romana, quæ tent is forfan malis occaſionem dedis, om mium prima ſeverè corrigatur, ut que CAUSAM DAMNI dedit, Medicine præbeat , do Salutis initium . -Se liberaliter faturi mulia perperam ac vitiosè Romafieri, cum maximo reliquarum gentium ac Provinciarum incommodo, NEC ABS QUE DETRIMENTO RELIGIONIS. (Sleid . De Sraru Rel. & Reip . L.4. ) Sammos Pontifices polle errare, in Ils QUÆ TANGUNT FIDEM , 113 hac Sede malta ABOMINANDA fuiſſe; ---- Abulus in Spiritualibus - omnia in perverſum mutata..( V.Launoyum Do&. Sorbon, in Epiftolis. ſeveral 4. de Stat. 7 Vol. I. to ITALY. 67 ſeveral Writers. The Abomination of the San & uary, that is to ſay, the horrible and univer ſal Corruption of thoſe who are called Clergy men , from the loweſt Prieſt to the High Pontife, was what he chiefly lamented ; and this was the Evil, to which he propoſed to apply a Remedy, as ſoon as poſſibly he could ; but they didn't give him leiſure to do it. The State of Af fairs at Rome has been ſuch , for theſe twelve or thirteen Centuries eſpecially, that we muſt not expe &t any Reformation by the means of the Popes : For theſe Men muſt neceſſarily periſh , by the Sword, or by Poiſon , if they do not pretty near tread in their Anceſtor's Steps . Gilbert Lappius in his Appendix, or his Anno tations uponBeka, produces the Letter of a Tra veller nam'd William de Løchorst , who was at Rome when Adrian died : he ſpeaks very advan tagiouſly of this Pope; whoſe Manners, ſayshe, were holy, and the Endowments of his Mind admirable. And he adds, in relation to his out ward Form and Meen , That he was a tall Man, of a fine Shape ; of a fair Complexion; a happy Phyſiognomy, and all his Aires Grave and Mo deft. His Obſequies were performed on the 22d of September ( 1523 ) fix or ſeven Days after his Death : and his Body was interr'd in St. Andrew's Chappel in theGerman Church with theſe Words upon his Monument; HIC Nihil fibi infelicius in vita duxit, Guam Quod Imperaret. P. Bertius relates this Inſcription a little dif ferent : Hadrianus Sextus hîc fitus eſt, qui nihil fibi infelicius quàm quod Imperaret duxir. Cardinal d'En F 2 kenvoerts 68 A New Voyage Vol. I. ken voert who was his Friend, and ow'd his Car dinalſhip to him , compoſed this other Epitaph, that I add here ſo much the more willingly, becauſe you ſhall find in it fome Hiſtorical Par ticularities : HADRIANO SEXTO PONTIFICI "MAXIMO, Ex Traje&to inſigni Inferioris Germania Urbe ; qui, dum Rerum Humanarum maximè Averſaretur fplen dorem , ultro à Proceribus, ob incomparabilem Sacra rum Diſciplinarum ſcientiam , ac prope Divinam can didiffimi Animi Moderationem , Carolo Quinto Caſari Auguſto Præceptor, Ecclefia Dertuſienſis Antiſtes, ſacri Senatûs Patribues Collega, Hiſpaniarum Regius Pre ſes ; Reipublicæ Chriftiana Divinitùs Pontifex abſens adſcitus*Jan. 9. An. 1522. Vixit Annos 63, Men Jes 6, Dies 13. Deceſſit 18. Kal. Octob. An. à partu Virginis 1523. Pontificatûs ſui An. ſecundo. Guliel mus Enckenvoert, Illius benignitate, do Auſpiciis, Ti tul. San & torum Joannis da Pauli Presbyter Cardinalis Dertuſienſis, faciendum curavit. William Lochorst is pretty poſitive as to the poiſoning this poor Pope, in his Letter to the Dean and Chapter of Utrecht, dated the ſame day of his Funeral ; where he remarks in that fame Letter, that the following Verſes were publickly ſet up in Rome. Cita Mors Adriani. Hinc Mors tam cita, quod Mores &Tempora Noſtra , Prava nimis , Talim non meruere Virum ! O Mores ! O Tempora ! One may eaſily fee who thoſe are that theſe Verſes accufe ; but the People who endeavour'd to hide the Shame of theſe Poiſoners, threw the Suſpicion upon certain Shop -Keepers, whoſe Buſineſs was ſpoiled by the Ordinances of that Pope, againſt Luxury in Habits. One Vol. I. to ITALY 69 One may remark as a Thing ſingular, that Adrian would not change his Name upon his Advancement to the Papacy, not withitanding the Cuftom conftantly follow'd from the middle of the Ninth Century : Sergius the Second hay ing taken that Name inſtead of that he had, towards the Year 845. Anna Maria Schurman , is another famous Per fon of the City of Ulrecht. Her Name is a ſuf ficient Elogy : Only it is good to obſerve, That the Learning of Kings and Women, is generallyalittle too much extolled by the Flatterers and Adorers of theſe two Soris of Perſons. She read Seven or Eight Languages ; and ſhe did inform herſelf with great care, of the State of the Sciences, of which the diſcourſed hiſtorically , after a pretty per tinent manner. She had alſo ſomeKnowledge in the fine Arts ; and even underſtood a little of Painting. I have ſeen a Print taken from an Original in Water -colours, which was, ſay they, done by her own Hand, as well as it repreſented her Face ; and under which ſhe had written theſe two Latin Verſes of her own making ; 6 Cernitis bic pięta noftros in Imagine Vultus : Si negat Ars formam , Gratia veftra dabit. Siffridus Petrus , " one of the Commentators of the Annals of Utrecht ſo often already men rioned, relates a Fact that was wonder'd at in this City , in the Year 1378. He ſays, That a Male Child, of forty Days old , pronounc'd certain Words ( by an extraordinary marvellous operation ). I don't remember whether he obſerves what was the proper and particular Uſe of that Prodigy ; nor if any remarkable Circumſtances accompanied it. But however, this Hiſtory will make me touch again upon the Article of the F 3 Peace 70 ' A New Voyage Vol. I. Peace of Utrecht, in relating here the Words of one of our famous Preachers, concerning this Peace ſo univerſally deſired. Happy , ſaid he, and an hundred times happy, je Miniſters, who are Sent from all the Courts of Europe to treat of Peace, if bome beavenly Ambaſſador (like this extraordi nary Child) came to preſide inyour Aſemblies, and conduet to their End your laudable Deſigns! What In trigues , what Cares , what vain Labours would be Spared to you , if your Conferences were ſo bappily dire Eted, by a Moderator of this Character ! &c. After what manner ſoever the Efforts and Cares of all theſe Miniſters of Peace do ſucceed to whom thou open'ſt thy Arms, O UTREHCT ! Peace be to Thee, and all Prosperity ! 9 Pax Tibi ! & Pax Adjuvantibus Te ! ( 1 Chron. 12. 18. ) Sit Pax in Propugnaculis tuis, Et Tranguillitas inPalatiis tuis! ( Pſ. 122. 7. ) But remember what ſaith a Poet ; Quis fuit horrendos primus qui protulit Enſes ? Quàm ferus, & verè ferreus ille fuit ! Origidum Pectus ! Sed vos attendite, Cives! Cum Belli portas claudere fert Animus : Libertas melior cautis quæe jungitur Armis, Quam quod fraudetegit Pax fimulata Fugum Ergo, cum placitum eſt optatæ Fædera Pacis · Pangere, Solertes, Bella parate ſimul ! PAX QUÆRITUR BELLO. Two Hours from Utrecht, we pafs'd thro' the fine Avenues of Zeiſt, in ſight of the Caſtle on the right hand . It is a very fair Building, com paſſed Voll Vol. I. to ITALY. 71 faida World . paffed with large Ditches full of running Wa ning til ter, and adorn'd with Woods, Gardens, Statues, Fountains,and all other Embelliſhmentsyou can ZEIST. ty whic deſire. This Houſe belongs to one of the great at of Paul eſt Lords in the Country , whobuilt it fome extraord Years ago, and hath the Repute of doing things oblie, magnificently From . thence we went to dine at Rhenen , a RIIENEN. zoals Countrey-Town ( or Borough } pleaſantly e. nough ſituated upon the Rhine ; John Askelius ( the 48th Biſhop of Utrecht ) incloſed it with forts ftrong Walls, towards the Year 1350 : which was o fucca formerly to be ſeen expreſt in theſe Verſes upon TREHCI one of the Gates ; C. C! Enle Providas includit Rhenenſem Mænibus Urbem Askelius Præful : Turres adjungit da altas ; Scilicet ut nequeant Civesturbare moleſti Prædones, innoxia Pax dum divite Cornu Fundit Opes : nec eos rabidus perterreat Hoſtis, Dum luculenta tonant Mavortis Bella : nefandè Dum bacchatur atrox, bu barbara ſævit Erinnys, Præful, Honoris apex ! bu quo nec juſtior alter, Nec Pietate fuit major ! Tibi folvere Grates Pro Meritis non fufficimus. The Antiquaries of that Countrey pretend that their Rhenen is the Grynnes mention'd by Tacitus ; but this Suppoſition appears to me to be grounded upon nothing but foine Affinity in the Words. And even , I do not ſee how one can be certain that this Place, ( where we do not meet with the leaſt Mark of any Roman Antiquity ) be but near the Place where the an cient Grynnes ſtood . The Church is pretty fair, and eſpecially the Steeple : one is at firſt inclin'd to believe that fo fine a Tower or Pyramid muft have been built for a better Town than this is. ives US : Thiki Paris ! 0 chromis F4 Gerard Ei Cine pain 72 A New Voyage Vol. 1. 1 Gérard Lyſtrius has publiſh'd a ſmall Deſcription in Verſe of the Neighbourhood of Utrecht ; and I fall here inſert ſome of what he ſays of Rhenen. Oppidulum Rhenenſe pium , fic præſt at Amæno Cælo, ſicque fitu ſe tollit ad Athera blando, &c. Quippe quod in celſo conſtructum vertice Collis Frondoſi, Rbenum ſubter ſe cernit, euntem, Vorticibus tremulis ftrepitantem murmure rauco, Si libet , bic potis es Cervos agitare feroces; Fulmineum vel Aprum cornu transfigere diro. Auribus excipies vocum diſcriminamille Avia quas Arbuſta cient, Volucreſque canoræ . Capripedos cernes Satyros, Dryadeſque fugaces. Dumcurſu certant agili prævertere Panes Agreſtes Nymphas, latè Nemus omne movere. Oppidulum quamvis iſtud non fit populofum , This Poet Attamen, exigui Cives, ut * Montibus aliis never ſawthé Nutriti, ſunt Montani genus acre virorum . Alps ; who Germanis nullis vivunt Virtute ſecundi takes à Hile lock for a Belliçe ; e Ingenii non cedunt Doribus ullis. high Moun- Sic Opibzus quod deeſt ſupplet Virtuſque Genufque. fain The litçle Hill mention'd by this Author upa on or next which Rbenen is built, is callid by Bekelius, Mons Haymonis, The Mountain, or Hillof Haymon, formerly a petty Prince of that Coun irey, and Father of the four famous Champions, ſo well known by the Name of Quatre- Fils - Aymon, AAt Paris. whoſe * Pont-Neuf's Authors relate the Hiſtory, with ſeveral others of the fame Sort. They madeus alſo take notice at Rbenen , of the fine Houſe, that † Frederick I, Elector Pa latine, and King of Bohemia, caus’d to be built there а + This Prince was Elected King of Bohemia, and Crowned at Prague, the Fourth of November 1619. But the Emperor Ferdinand the Second bis Rivel, attack'd him with ſupeo riour . 73 Vol. 1. to ITALY Amua good. CAM012 1941), cral Delfi there,when heretir’d thither after his Diſgraces, funeb in the Year 1622. The Choice that that Prince tays of sa made of that Place, ought to make us think that the Situation of it is pleaſant, and the Air Sat ca blanca é. Approaching the Village call'd Rhincom, three tice cic Cells Hours on this ſide of Rbenen, there is a Boun autem, dary -Stone, which ſeparates the Lordſhip of U andare pot trecht, from the Dutchy of Guelderland. The Fields, rodes thereabout, are almoſt wholly planted with To Tere disa bacco ; and the Stalks by which theſe Plants are Elle ſupported , give them an Air, at a diſtance, of our Vineyards round about Paris. I ſay in the 11g fugaces . Neighbourhood of Paris ; for the way of Plant Panes ing and Cultivating the Vine is very different, WORTE in the different Provinces of France. Arnheim is tolerably fortify’d. During the ARNHEIM little Time we ſtay'd there , we could not Arenacum . find any particular Thing that deſerv'd to be di taken notice of. Their Beds, at leaſt in the Inns, . are like our Cupboards ; which you go up a Genaue Ladder to, and after plunge your ſelf into a deep Feather-bed, and have another of the ſame Author : Sort for your Covering. ' Tis their ordinary cald Way in all theſe Countries , even in Holland. jurH. If they wonder that I take notice of it, as being riour Army, and forced him to Retire : after which, the Empire animated by their Head, diſpoflefed him of bis own Dominions ; Els Amesbich, Charles Lewis Son to Frederick ,was but fettled in part by History the peace of Munſter. But the Upper Palatinate that was then Transferred to the Houſe of Bavaria , is lately returned to the Pa latine Family by a nemo Cataſtrophe. The Sereniſſime Princeſs So phia, Ele& rels Dowager of Brunſwick and Hanover, and, as far as I know , defign'd Heireſs of the Crown of Great Britain, was be buis Born at Rhenen An. 1636, eight years after her father's Retire ment thither. The Queen , ber Mother, was Siſter to Charles the Firſt, King of England ; who as it is known enough , was not a very fortunate Prince neither. Frederick died at Mayº ence in the Year 632, as he was endeavouring to recover his Dominions. ſingular il at Com in bener,of Lector by Crowds Se Essen che linge 74 A New Voyage Vol.I. Hans- Town. fingular, ( as Monſieur L'Abbé Regnier has done in his pretty Verſes ) they may, in Revenge, make Remarks upon ours. Two large Hours and an half from Arnheim we paſs’d the riſel, (the Folja Druſiana, mention'd by Tacitus.) This ancient Canal, at preſent, is divided into three Branches, very near each DOU S. other in this place, and paſs thro' Dousburg, BURG. which is a little Town on that Water, in the Drufi:Burgum . County of Zutphen . We were forced to dine upon Bisket and Milk in a paltry Village, and in the Evening were treated much after the Y SE L. fame manner at rſeloort, which is a poor little OOR T. diſmantled Place, at the entrance into the Coun try of Cleves. There is ſcarce any thing but Woods and WESEL, Sandy Groundsbetween Iſeloort and Weſel; and formerly a there is but little remarkable in the laſt oftheſe Places.. ' Tis indifferently fortify'd *, and they It bas eight Baftions , five are at preſent at Work on a + Citadel, between ofwhich are the City and the Fort of Lippe, on the Bank of lin'd . the Rbine. The Ele&or of "Brandenburg allows † The Citadel his Roman Catholick Subje & s in the Dutchy of bus five Base Bions. It wil Cleves , the publick Exerciſe oftheir Religion, be a handſome by a Treaty which he concluded with the Duke Fort, and as of Neuburg, now Elector Palatine , on condition prong as it cox'd be made that the Duke ſhould grant the fame Liberty to is ſuch Sandy the Proteſtants in his Dutchies of Fuliers and Berg. Ground . The There are four Churches at Weſel : The Pro inſide of the teſtants, who are call’d Calvinifts, have the Two Rampart is lin'd, to make principal ; the Lutherans the Third, and thoſe it more firm , of the Roman Communion the other. The Jews and keep it have a little Synagogue. from falling. Half an Hour from Weſel we paſt the Lippe, which , not far from thence, falls into the Rhine; DUISBURG and the fame Day we arriv'd pretty early at Duise formerly a Hans burg. This City is about the bigneſs of Weſel, . Town . without Fortifications, or any thing conſiderable bus Pryce [: Vol..I, 7's > ty Villa Es 2 pou to ITALY. 75 Reguir la but its Univerſity. The principal Church is fair nay, in kot enough, and belongs to the Proteſtants. The Scholarswalk about the Streers in their Morning aif from Gowns, like thoſe of Leyden. I was inform'd, that 4 ANA,MES the Roman Catbolicks might carry the Hoft about al , at prelu here,according to the full liberty which is grant very sina ed them throughout all this Country, tho they thro'la chuſe rather to refrain from doingit , left any - Watert. Accidents ſhould happen which might diſturb the Foredi friendly Correſpondence which they entertain with their Proteſtant Neighbours. smuch altc. A good half League from Duisburg, we entred into the Country of Berg. And two Hours af into theter we paſſed through Keyſer /waert, which is a KEYSER . i very little Place upon the Rbine. It belongs to SWAERT. ut Wood the Ele & or of Cologn, in whoſe Poffeffion , as we and we were inform’d, it remains as a Pledge, and by helat to whomit was fortified. Wehavenow been a few Hours at Duſſeldorp, DUSSEL where we have already walked about for ſome DORP. The on theB time,to diſcover ſomething worth our Obferva- Residence of tion. This City is bigger by half than Duisburg, latine fince and every way better ;, there are no Suburbs ad- the French rus heit Rejoining to it, no more than to Keyſerſwaert. The in’d the Caffle Fortifications ſeem to be kept in good Order ; ofHeidelberg. on com . and the Electoral Prince, the Duke of Newburg , del with four Irakes his Reſidence here. This is all I can now Baftions. Gal. liersand lay. I am , Gualdi. SIR, Duſſeldorp, O&ob. 23. 16875 Your, & c .

cadel, the EleEtor Pan dentary he Dutch vith the Here is a Citse nie Libe 1: T % are the de an T. TE: at the to the early els of LETTER cook 76 A New Voyage Vol. I. L ET TER V. TH made it an SIR, COLOGN , HIS Letter will give you an Account of an Archbiſhop part of what I could obſerve at Cologn in rick, Univerfi. ty , Imperial three Days Time. Since we only wander'd in City,and Hars , our Walks abroad , you muſt expect no regular Town. Otho Order in the Relations which I ſend you. I am she Great, glad of this occaſion to give you this Advertiſe Imperial City,ment by the Bye, thatyoumay not expect to and gave it have things in another Method than that in the Privileges which Chance offer'd 'em to us. i now enjoys. Cologn may be ſeen at a conſiderable diſtance, and all in plain view in a level Country. The City is very large , ſurrounded with a Wall and dry Ditch, with Towers, and ſome Baſtions which defend its Gates. Luther ſays in his Colloquia Men ſalia, That ' tis the greateſt City in Germany, c.64. There are 24 There is rarely ſo great a Number of Steeples to Gates, 13 te, be any where ſeen at once , as appear’d to us on the Land, andthe ſide we approach'd the Town. Rhine, It is an Imperial City , govern'd by its Burgo Maſters : but the Arch-Biſhop's Authority is very conſiderable. This Prince takes cognizance ofall Affairs both Civil and Criminal, and can pardon thoſe whom the Magiſtrates condemn. And the Oath which the City takes, ſeems to be a kind ofHomage : It is in theſe Terms ; 11 on the We the Free Burgeſles of Cologn, do this Day, for now , and for ever promiſe tom Arch -Bijhop of Cologn, to be faithful andfavourable to him , AS LONG AS HE SHALL MAIN TAIN IN OUR RIGHTS, OUR HONOUR AND OUR Vol. I. , to ITALY 77 C . OUR ANCIENT PRIVILEGES , Us, our Wives,there is greas our Children,, and our City of Cologn. So God and Jealoufie be bis Saints belp us. i ween the City und i be Ele tor . They will not ſuffer him to ſtay long there with a great Train. Many Archbiſhops have attempted to invade their Liberties. Under the Reign of the Emp. Adolphus of Naſſaw , the Inhabitants went in Arms to meet their Arch - Biſhop, as far as Woringhen, in Brabant, where having plar'd the Keys of their City between bin and them, in the field of Battel, to be the Price of the Victory, they ob tain'd that with their Keys and Franchiſes . They have ever ſince celebrated Feftival on this Account, with a great deal of Ceremony. Heils. If you pleaſe , you may have the Anſwer which the Biſhop recurns them : it was a Burgo Mafter who gave me them both. We by the Grace of God, Arch -Biſhop of the Holy Church of Cologn , Elector , and Arch Chancellor of the Empire through Italy : To the end that there may be an amicable Confederacy, entire Con fidence, and ſincere and inviolable Peace between Us and our dear Burgeſſes of the City of Cologn, do make known to all by theſe Preſents, that we promiſe and declare ſincerely, andwithout Fraud, that we com . firm all their Rights and Franchiſes, written or not written , old or new , within or without the City of Cologn, which have been granted to it by the Popes, Emperors, Kings, and Arch- Biſhops of Cologn, and that we will never do any thing to violate the ſame. In Teftimony whereof, &c. The Chapter of Cologn is compos’d of fixty Canons, who ought all to be Princes or Counts. The Four and Twenty Eldeſt are the Capi tularies. The Electors of Cologn had formerly the Privi lege to Crown the Emperor according to the Conſtitution of the Golden -Bull;but theſe Electors not having been Prieſts for a long time, thoſe of Mentz performed that Office in their ſtead, and 78 AA New Voyage Vol. I. They pretend and have * ever ſince remain’d in poſſeſſion of alſo to this that Honour. Right, in qua lity of the firſt Arch -Bishops. Leopold, tbe Emperor now reigning was Crowned by the Arch. Biſhop of Cologn. I am inform’d , that there are many Proteſtants here , who are known to be ſuch : They go into the Landsof the Duke of Newburg, to perform + Thoſe who the Exerciſe of their Religion. They are ſtill presented the call’d by their old Name of t Gueux, or Beggars, Petition were which, you know, was given at Bruſſels to the Habited all a like , with a Authors of the Compromis , by the Count de thick and Barlemont. courſe Sort of Cloth. They never took it ill to be cald Gueux ; and to diftinguiſh themſelves by that Name, they ksung a Medal at their Necks, upon which , on one ſide , was the Effigies of the King, ( Philip II. ) and on the other twohands joyn’d together,holding two Budgets, with divers little Porringers, and round aboutwas written , Faithful to the King even to Beggary. Gab. Chapuys, Hift. of the Wars of Flanders. The Town Houſe is a great Gothick Building. Thereare fixe. Weſaw there,among other things,Chambersfull bout the Plat.of Bows, Arrows,Croſs-Bows, Quivers, Bucklers, form before it . and other ancient Arms. I meaſur'd one of thoſe The firft w28 Croſs - Bows which had need of a Frame, or Car defigu'd to commemorate riage ; The Bow was of Whale-Bone, and is the Kindneſs of twelve Foot long, eight Inches broad, and four Cæfar to the Inches thick . It is very pleaſant to behold Cologa, Ubii, by me and the delicate Country about it, from the top ceiving them into the summ. of the Tower of this Houſe. ber of the Al lies; and his building two wooden Bridges over the Rhine. The ſecond men tions the Colony which Auguſtus fent bither. The third was made upon occa fion of the building of the City, by Agrippa , The fourth relates to the Stone Bridge, which Conftantine built here. The fifth is in Honour of Juſtinian , who granted 'em fome Laws ; and the ſixth in Honour of the Emperor Maxi milian I. ( Montconys. ) The little part of the City which is on the other ſide of the Rbine, is properly under the Do minion of the Elector, and is the Quarter allot ted to the Fews. The Vol. I. to ITALY. 79 Structure was erected in tbe ز ad The * Cathedral Church remains in a very * St. Peter's. imperfe&t State ; it is pity fo fine a beginning ' Tis ſaidthis was never compleated . In the Year 1162, the three pretended Kings who came to adore our ſpace of foser Saviour, were brought from Milan into this Tears, and fin Church , where Fame attributes many Miracles niſb’d Anno to them . They fell for a penny a Dozen little 1258. Billets or Notes, which have touched them, and when Frede communicate their Virtue. Luther ſays, that in rick Barba his time there was in this Church a Stone - ſtatue roſſa cauſed of a Dean , holding a Cat in one Hand, and a Milan to be raz'd . Rat in the other ; This Dean was a Few, and that ſhew'd , ſays Luther, that he lov'd the Chri ftians no otherwiſe than the Cats love the Rats : which is eaſy to be believ'd. Colloquia Menſalia , Chap. 74. Anextraordinary Drying havingcauſed aFa- The grest Cena mine in Hungary ( I know not poſitively in what courſe of Peo time it happen'd ) a great number of the People ple who reſort of that Country, came to fupplicate the Alli- from all Parts to Cologn , is ftance of the three Kings, after they had in the reason why vain invoked the Saints of their Country and the Citybus Neigbbourhood ; and they had no ſooner men- been confidera tion'd their Requeft, but it rained in great abun - bly augmented: dance. Since that time, a certain number of Sir Thomas Hungarians come every ſeventh Year in Procef- excellent Book fion, to pay Homageto their Benefactors ; and of Vulgar Era theſe People are treated and waited upon by the rers, refutes Magiftrates for fifteen Days, in a very fine Houſe, thoſewhoina the Opinion of which was built on purpoſe for them. gine, that theſe pretended Monarchs were Kings of Cologn . But, for my part, I muft confeſs, 1 meva beard Perfon maintain, or fo much as ſpeak of that Opinion . I obferv'd a Hole, three or four Foot wide, in the Top of the Vaulted Roof of the Church, and almoſt dire&ly over the Chappel, where theſe Royal Relicks are kept. Theſe Words are wric ten round the Hole : Brown in his any 1 80 A New Voyage Vol. I. See To. II. Anno 1404. 30. Oct. ventus de nocte flat ingens, Letrer xxiii. grandem pir tectum lapidem pellit. On the 30th of October, in the year 1404, a great Wind blewin the Night, and drove a great Stone thro’the Roof. This Stone lies on the Pavement near the Chap pel . Our Guide told us , they call'd it , The Devil's Stone, becauſe it is believ'd , the Devil threw it out of Malice to deſtroy the Chappel . I obſerv'd alſo in the ſame Church, over one of the Doors, thirty ſix gilded Staves, about three Foot long each; and this Diftich written underneath : Quot pendere vides Baculos, tot Epiſcopus Annos Huic Agrippinæ præfuit Ecclefiæ. And in effect, the Elector is at preſent in the thirty ſeventh Year of his Arch -Biſhoprick. But I could neither learn the Origine, nor the Utility of this Cuftom . Weſaw , by the way, the fine Church of the Jeſuits, and from thence went to that of St. Ur ſula. You are doubtleſs acquainted with the Mezeray rea Legend of this Saint, and of her Eleven Thou lates theStory, fand Virgins, who were Maſſacred with her by as sis common the Huns at Cologn ,in the Year 238. Thoſe who ' t told is ſo far from firſt wrote the Story, ſuppoſed that there was affirming it to cne Etherus ,King of England, and Husband ofUr be true, that ſula ; and one Pope Cyriac,his Contemporary,Per he looks upon Cons of whom no notice is taken in any Hiſtory. tain, if not In the mean time, every one of theEleven Thou fabulous. fand Virgins, have done above Eleven Thouſand ' Tis alſo como, Miracles, and furniſh'd a great number of Re fated at length by thefamous licks. The Body of Urſula lay for a long time Arch- Biſhop confounded among the reit ; but they ſay it was Uſher. at laſt diſtinguiſh'd by a Pigeon, who, for ſe veral Days, came regularly at a fet Hour to her Tomb : And at preſent the Saint is laid near her Husband it as uncer W 10 ITALY. OM Vol. 1 . 8 i Husband Etherus. The Church is fills with the Tombs of many of the Virgins, and there are always a Multitude of Old- Women in ir, repeat ing Pater nofters from Morning to Night. They ſay the Earth of this Church would not for merly endure any other dead Corps ' ; and to prove this, they thew the Tomb of a Daughter of a certain Duke of Brabant, which , after they had plac'd it there by force, ſtarted up and re main'd in the Air, ſo that they were oblig’d to fix it with Iron, as it ſtill continues, two or three Foot from the Ground, againſt one of the Pil lars of the Church. They ſhew'd us, in a great Chappel , which is at the side of the Church, the Bones of the Virgins, with which it is adorned and hung, al moſt in the ſame manner as you ſee the Swords and Piſtols ranged at White- Hal, in the Guard Chamber. Theſe Bones have no Ornaments, except the Heads, which are honour'd in a par ticular manner ; for ſome of them are put up in Silver Shrines, others in gilt Boxes ; there is none which have not at leaſt their Caps of Cloath of Gold, or a Bonner of Crimſon - Vel vet, wrought with Pearls and Jewels. And this is what , together with the pretended three Kings, is the chief Object of the Devotion of Cologn ; and from whence it takes the Name of Cologn the Holy. ' Tis alſo , for the ſame Reaſon , that the Arms of the City are , Argent, eleven Flames Gules, with a Chief of the Second, charged with three Crowns Or. The Eleven Flames arein Memorial of the Eleven Thouſand Virgins, and the Three Crowns repreſent the Three Kings. Perhaps you have not been inform'd of the Judgment, that one of the moſt learned Jeſuits of the paſt Age, has made of the Hiſtoryof the Eleven Thouſand Virgins ; ' tis the famous James G Sirmond ; 3 ) 82 A New Voyage Vol. I. S Sirmond, Confeffor to King Lewis XIII. The learned Monſieur de Valois has publiſh'd it in the following Terms : There was, ſays he, one St. Urſula a Martyr, according to the common Opinion , tho' we cannot tell the Time whenſhe liv'd : But as for the Story , of the Eleven Thouſand Virgins, ' tis a little too groſs to be Suffer'd. Here is the Foundation, on wbich , according 60 Father Sirmond's Conje&ture, this Error is ground .ed. Thoſe that forg'd this fine Hiſtory , baving found in ſome written Martyrology,SS. URSULA ETUN DECIMILLA, V.M. * Sanctæ Urſula & Undeci-. , milla, virgines Martyres, they imagin'd that Unde cimilla, which is a proper Name, with V and M ad joined to it, was an Abbreviation to expreſs,Undecem Millia Virginum Martyrum : And thereupon they madetheRomance, which they now put upon the World . I cannot comprehend, bow the Doctors of Sorbon , a mongft whom there are ſo many learned Men,ſhould be willing to bave this Troop of Conter-band Saints , for the tutelar Patrons of their Church, fince 'twas in their Powers to have choſen ſo manyothers, of an una gueſtionable Stamp. (See the Valefiána .) In the Church of the Maccabees there is a Cru cifix who wears a Peruke ; which is a very particular dreſling for a Crucifix : but the moſt ſurpriſing and edifying Circumſtance of which you muſt be inform’d, is that when the Huna garian Pilgrims come to Cologn, they do each of them cut off a Lock of Hair from this Pe ruke, and yet it never diminiſhes. The Care thufians (if you will take their own Word for't) have the Hem of Chriſt's Garment, which was touch'd by the Woman that had the bloody Iſſue. When the Women of Cologn are troubl'd with a Flux of Blood , they ſend ſome Wine immediately to the Carthufians, that they may dip a Piece of the Relick in it ; after whicha Draught VOI I. to ITALY. 83 Draught of the fan & ify'd Wine is eſteem'd an Infallible Remedy. ( 7. Reiskius. ) I obſerv’d, at the Entrance into the Church of the Twelve Apoſtles, a Picture, which re preſents a ſingular Event. The Wife of a Con Tul of Cologn, being buried in the Year 1571, with à Ring of ſome Price, the Sexton , the Night following, open'd the Tomb to ſteal the Ring ; I leave you to judge if he were not fright ed when he felt his Hand graſp'd, and whenthe good Lady took hold of him to get out of the Sepulchre . However, he made a ſhift to diſen gage his Hand, and immediately ran away, with out asking any Queſtions. The Perſon that was come to Life, unwrapped her ſelf as well as ſhe could, and went to knock at the Door of her Houſe. She call's a Servant by his Name, and in few Words told him the Sum of her Adven ture, that he might admit her without any ſcru ple : But the Man thought her a Ghoſt, and in a a great Confternation ran to tell the thing to his Mafter. The Mafter as incredulous as the Man, call'd him Fool, and ſaid he would as ſoon be lieve his Horſes were in the Garret ; and in ftantly a moſt dreadful Noiſe was heard in the Garret ; upon which the Man went up, and found fix Coach -Horſes there with all the others that were firſt in the Stable . The Conſul amaz'd at ſo many Prodigies, was not able to ſpeak ; the Man was in anExtaſie ,or Swoonin the Gar ret : and the living deceas’d , quaking in her Shroud, was expešting to be let in . At laſt, the Door was open'd, and they chafed and us’d her ſo well, that ſhe reviv'd as if nothing had paſs’d ; and the next Day they made the ne ceſſary Machines to let down the Horfes. And, as a confirmation of the Story , there is at this Day to be ſeen in the Garret, fome Wooden G 2 Horfes, 84 A New Voyage Vol . I. Horſes, which are cover'd with the Skins of theſe Animals. They ſhew alſo in the Church of the Twelve Apoſtles , a large Linnen Cur tain which this Woman ſpun after her Return into the World ; in which ſhe lived ſeven Years afterwards. We may now obſerve, this Story has been ſub ject to the Fate of moſt other Relations, of extraordinary Accidents : ' Tis the Humour of the World , in ſuch caſes , inſtead of being contented with the Singularity of an uncom mon Event, to heighten every Circumſtance, and embelliſh the real Wonder with new and fi &titious Prodigies. The very Oddneſs and Improbability of the Story recommends it to the Belief of thoſe who are always very fond of what they cannot comprehend; and others are ſo accuſtom'd to a blind Submifiion, that a confident Affertion will extort their Affent to a down- right Abſurdity. On the other hand, there are ſome, who, as ſoon as they find an incredible Circumitance added to a Story , are ſo afraid of being impos'd upon , that they reject the whole as a Fable. But ’ tis certainly the Duty of all Men , as ʼtis the Care of every candid and judicious Per ſon to endeavour , by a careful and impar tial Enquiry to diſtinguiſh Truth from Falſe hood, and to avoid the two oppoſite Extre mities of a heedleſs Credulity and unreaſo nable Niceneſs. For if only ſuch Truths were to be believ'd, as are abſolutely free from the leaſt Mixture of Fable , we ſhou'd hardly give credit to any thing that is grounded on Tra dition or Hiſtory . And therefore , tho ' the End of this Story is evidently fabulous, I ſee no Reaſon that ſhou'd oblige us to deny the Beginning of it , ſince 'tis not only very pro bable, ' Vol. I. to ITALY 85 bable, but ſupported by frequent || Examples of the fame Nature : And even , we may fay , Iformer ! SinceEditions the think, in favour of this, that whereas among all of this book , the numerous Relations of ſupernatural Events i have met that are publiſh'd , there are very few that are with the Hi. well atteited or grounded upon Matter of Fact ; ftory of the on the contrary, the Number of thoſe who have de Cologne, been bury'd before they were really dead , is in the Me much greater, than that of the Stories record- moirs of the famous Surgeon ed in Hiſtory, of ſuch as have been taken up Fabri, andin alive out of their Graves. the Hiſtoires Admirables of Simon Goulart. The Name of this Woman was Reichmuth Adolch . She liv'd a long Time after ber Return to the World, and had three Sons ( all of ' em Clergy men ). John Buſſenmaker has engraven the Pi&ture that is to be ſeen in the Church of the Holy Apoſtles, where this whole Hiſtory is repreſented. Neither Fabri , nor Goulart, make any mention of the Horſes in the Garret, which is a Circumſtance manifefly fabulous enough . Pliny relates ſeveral Inſtances of this Nature, Aviola Vir and among the reſt, that of Aviola, who awak'd Conſularks in rogo revixit : from his Lechargy,after his Body was laid on the do quoniam Funeral Pite in order to be burnt, according to ſubveniri non the Cuſtom of that Time, but was conſum'd by potuerat, pre the ſame Fire that reviv'd him, the Violence of valente flam må, vivus the Flame not permitting the Spectators to aſliftcrematus est . him. I do not at all queſtion, but you, as well Plin , 1. 7 . as I, have met with aa Hundred ſuch Relations in c. 52 . the Writings of ancient Authors. But, without leaving Cologn, I ſhall content my ſelf with put ting you in mind of Archbiſhop Geron, who, if we may depend upon the Authority of Albertus Krantzius, was bury'd alive, and dy'd before his Grave cou'd be open'd. And you have doubtleſs read the Story of t Scotus,the Subtil Doctor, who, in tJohn Downs this ſame City, gnaw'd his Hands, and broke his a Scotch Fran Head in his Grave.. ' Tis true , * one of the moſt cilcan,dy'd st confiderable Authors who related this Accident, 8. 1308. Cologn, Nory. was poſitively contradicted by one George Herwart, ' Bzovius. G3 who,

86 A New Voyage Vol. I. 1 who, it ſeems, was loath to believe ſo tragical a Story of a Perſon for whom he had an extraor dinary Veneration.. But the Matter of Fact is atteſted not only by Bzovius, but alſo by Paulus Fovius, Latomus, Majoli, Vitalis, Garzoni, and ſo many others, that ' wou'd be againſt Reaſon to oppoſe the concurring Teſtimonies of all thoſe Hiſtorians. Tho’you will perhaps think that this Digref fion is already too long, I cannot forbear adding another Story ,which agrees almoſt in every Cir cumſtance with that of the Conſul's Wife; and which I can poſitively aſſert to be true. Some - time ago one Mervache a Goidſmith of Poittiers, ſuffer'd ſome Gold-ringsto be put in theGrave with his wife , becauſe ſhe deſir'd at her Death, that they might be bury'd with her . A poor Man in the Neighbourhood hearing ofwhat was done, open'd the Grave the next Night, with a Deſign to ſteal the Rings ; but as he was en deavouring to pull ' em off, the Woman re viv'd , and complain'd that he hurted her. Theſe Words ftruck ſuch a Terror into the Thief, that he ran away, leaving the Grave open ; and the Woman being awak'd out of her Apo plectick Fit, went home, and in few Days re cover'd her former Health. She liv'd many Years after, and bore ſeveral Children , fome of whom are ſtill alive, and follow their Fa ther's Trade at PoiEliers ( in France.) The Story of Captain Francis de Civille, a Gen tleman of Normandy, who affirm'd , that he was dead, bury'd , and reſtor’d to Life by the miracu lous Providence of God, is ſo rare, and ſo re markable in every reſpect ,chat no inquiſitive Per ſon ought to beignorant of it. Several Authors Anno 1562. who liv'd at that time, took notice of this me morable Event , and deſcrib'd the principal Paſſages 3 Vol. I. to ITALY 87 Paſſages of it ; but the Accounts they have left us are very imperfect, and even in ſome mate rial Circumſtances. Thoſe who are deſirous to be particularly inform’d of the whole Tranſa Aion, may ſee the Hiſtory of it written by him felf, in the poſſeflion of a + French Miniſter at t Mr. De Sice London , whoſe Wife is that Gentleman's Grand- queville, a Gentleman of daughter. Normandy, Ihave nothing further to tell you of that formerly Mi Place ; but that there are ſtill ſome * Families niſter of remaining, who pretend to be deſcended from Tours. Leskirken the Romans , and produce their Genealogies, and Judaes. from the firſt Timethis City was made a Colo ny of the Empire. Let us however add a Word more, for ' tis impoſſible to leave Cologn without making ſome Reflection on the Fate of a great Queen ( Mary de Medicis) who, after ſhe was banih'd and forſaken , as ' tis well known to every body, died here; however much leſs Un fortunate in this Diſgrace, than had been her Husband, Henry IV, who was ſtabb’d in his Capi. tal City , without any reſpect, for the Gold of his Coach. I am, > Cologn, O & ob . 26. 1687 . SIR Yours, & c. L ETT ER VI. SIR, THE Ways from Cologn to Mentz are ſo bad at preſent andTravelling in Coaches,ſuch as they are here, ſo unpleaſant and uneaſie, that we choſe rather to remount the Rbine, notwith ſtanding the extream flownėſs of the Paſſage. G4 We 88 A New Voyage Vol. I. Anno 359 BONN. We went a Shore at Bonn, which appears to Bonna , Caſtra us a little dirty City. I could not learn, that Bonnenfi , Colonia Ju there was any thing in it to deſerve our Stay die bona,built there. The "Fortifications are neglected, and by Druſus. the Palace of the Elector of Cologn , who reſides there, ſeems to be but a very indifferent Houſe Julianus mu nic contra for a great Prince ; tho' it has ſome good Shew on Germanos the out-ſide : The Gardens belonging to it are Noveſium , mightily boafted of. There was a Burgo-Mafter Bonnam , & of Cologn in the Boat, who told me, as wepaſſed Bingiam. Caluir. by Andernach, that there are ſome Gentlemen in ANDER- that City who have particular Privileges, and NACH are call'd , Equites Liberi. He alſo told me many and Keyfer. Stories of a great Houſe on the other ſide the ſwaert have a Right of Tollon Rhine, which is not inhabited , and which he the Rhine. ſaid was haunted with Spirits, the ordinary Scan Some rears ago dal of uninhabited Houſes or Caſtles. as they were preparing a Piece of Ground in order to creat a Battery on it,they diſcover'd a Vault, in which there was found an Iron Cheft full of gold Medals,which were valued all together at a Hundred Thouſand Crowns. They were of the fineſt Gold, and ſome d'em were ſo thick as to weigh Eight Mundred Ducats, tho they were of the Same Coin of ſmall Medals, or the Roman large ones, yet they were baſely Coun, terfeited, and the few of them that were , whether true or falſe, of the laſt Greek Emperors, thews that they muſt be at leaft four or five Hundred Year's old . Burner. Coblentz is built upon a Nook of Ground which Confluentes : the Moſelle makes when it falls into the Rhine. Legio Traja na in theArch- This City ſeem'd to us to be very agreeable, and Biſhoprick of they told us it was very well fortify'd on the Treves, the Land -fide, but we ſaw only fingle Walls onthat the Elector of Part which is waſhed by the Moſelle and the Rbine. Treves, and The Caſtle which is on a riſing Ground, on the the moſt ancia ent Arch- Biſhoprick in all Germany. The Chapter of Treves admit neither Princes nor Counts eaſily. The Canons are, as much as is poſible, only Gentlemen; they muſt prove fixteen Deſcents of Nobility, both on the Father and Mother's ſide. Heiſs. Cives comes ſunt, blandi , candidi ; uc in ipſis agnoſcas ge. nium Gallicæ vivacitacis cum Germanico candore , & gravitate cem pera tum . P. Bertius de Reb. Germ. COBLENTZ, other Vol. I. to ITALY 89 other ſide of the River, is a very ſtrong Place, and commands the whole City. They call this Caſtle Ebrenbreiſten, which ſignifies the famous EHREN . Rock, or the Rock of Honour : le is built on the BREISTEN . Ruines of the Fort of Hermeſtein , of which there remains only that point of the Rock on which the Wind-mill ftands. There is always a good Garriſon in this place, with Store of Arms and Ammunition. The Palace of the Elector of Treves is at the foot of the Hill, under the Fore treſs, and on the Bank of the Rhine. Vix Rheno minor bic, placidos dum permeat Agros, Frugibus do Pomis, &dulci fertilis Uvå, Nomen, Aquaſq; ſuas, proprio ſub jure retentans, Fluminis ex gemini confluxu nomenhabentem Servat ad -uſque locum : viłtor mox Rbenus utrumque Eripit, du mixtis dominatur fortior undis. Gunth. Ligur. 1 9 Over- againſt the Town of Caub, which be longs to the Elector Palatine, half a League from Baccharach , which belongs to the ſame Prince, there is an old Cattle callid Pfaltz in the middle of the Rhine, from whence, as ſome ſay , the Pfaltzgraves, or as we call them , the Palſgraves, or Counts Palatine, derive their Name. Baccharach is a very little Town built on the ſide BACCHA RACH. of a Hill, and famous for its excellent Wines. One of the Miniſters of the Place , with whom we dined , pretends that Baccharach is derived from Bacchi Ara , or the Altar of Bacchus ; and he told us there were four ancient Towns in the Neighbourhood, which were alſo conſecrated to Bacchus : Steegbach, which is ſeated on a Hil lock, Scala Bacchi, tbe Ladder, or Stairs of Baccbus : Diebach , Digitus Bacchi, or the Finger of Bacchus: Handbach , or Manersbach, Manus Bacchi, or the Hand 1 1 > 90 A New Voyage Vol. I. Anno 745 . Hand of Bacchus : And Lorch, Laurea Bacchi, or she Bays of Bacchus. As we parted from Baccharach, a furious Storm aroſe, in which a large Boat was caſt away, and ours was alſo in ſome danger. We went alhoar a little before wecame to Rudiſheim , where the bad Weather conſtrain'd us to ftay awhile ; and paſſed by an old ruinous Houſe, which they ſaid Mentz was belonged to that wicked Arch-Biſhop of Mentz, made axan Arch- who was eaten by Rats. The Rbine makes in Bifheprick by that Place a little Iſland, in the midſt of which Pope Zachary, is a ſquare Tower, which they call the Tower , of Rats : And it is commonly reported , that this Prelate , who was the moſt wicked and cruel Man of his Age , fell fick in that rui nous Houſe I ſpeak of, ( ſome ſay it was in another a little further off, which is not ma terial to the Story , ) and that , by an ex traordinary Judgment of God, he was envi ron'd with Rats, which could by nomeansbe driven away. They add, that he cauſed himſelf to be carried into the land, where he hoped he might have been freed from them, but the Rats ſwam over the River and devour'd him . An in genious Man , whom I ſaw in this place, aſſur'd me,thathe had read this Story in ſome old Chro nicles of the Country. He ſaid he remembred, chat the Arch- Biſhop was nam'd Renald, and that this Accident happen'd in the Tenth Century. I would have willingly given Credit to his Rela tion ;; but I fear there is ſome Miſtake in it. For I know that about this time, there was a certain Prieſt named Arnold, who fraudulently diſpof ſeffed the Arch - Biſhop Henry; and that this Ar nold was maſſacred by the People, which may have occaſion's ſome' Confuſion in theſe Hifto ries. The Name of the Arch -Biſhop was not Re Anno 967. nald,but Hatton II,ſurnamed Bonofus; and ' tis ſaid, that Vol. I. to ITALY. 91 WAS over . that in a Time of Famine he cauſed a great num ber of poor People to be aſſembled in a Barn, where he order'd them to be burnt , ſaying, Theſe are ibe unprofitable Vermine, which are good for norbing but to conſumethe Bread which ſhould ſerve for the Suſtenance of others. This story is related Pliny upon the by a great many grave Authors , and gene- Varrorelates. Teſtimony of , rally believed here , tho' fome look upon it that the Ire of as a Fable. Some are too apt to give credit to Gyara, one of any Prodigy, and others deſerve to be cenſur'd the Cyclades, for their obſtinate Incredulity. Since the Holy wasabandona by the Inhabi. Scripture deſcribes a Pharaoh, pefter'd with Lice rants becauſe and Frogs, and a Herod devour'd by Worms ; why of Rais. He hould we haſtily condemn an Event of the fame adus, That a Nacure for a Fable ? Hiftory furniſhes us with City of Spain , ſeveral Inftances of more ſurpriſing Accidents, thrownby which were never controverted. And I re- Rabbets. One member I have read two fuch Hiſtories in Faſci-in Theſſaly by Moles. One in culus temporum. The Author ſays, that Mures France by infiniti convenerunt quemdam potenter , circumval Frogs. And Lantes eum inconvivio , nec potuerunt abigi donec another in A devoraretur. That is, A multitude of Mice com - frick by Mice. paſſed a certain Man about, ſtrongly affaulting him at a Banquet, nor could they be driven a way till they had devour'd him . This happen'd about the Year 1074. He adds , Idem cuidam Principi Poloniæ contigit. The ſame thing hap pen'dto a certain * Prince of Poland. * Poppiel II , Surnamed Sara danapalus, be, his Wife and Children were eaten by Rats, Anno 823. Pop pielus Principes Polonorum Patruos fuos veneno per fraudem interimit, eófque infepultos projicit, fed ex cadaveribus mures enati funt qui Pop pielum & ambos ejus filios una cum uxore devorant. Chron. de Pol. Ga son places this Event in the Tear 830. and adds, that the Rats gnam'd the Name of Hatton, which was in many places in the Tower of the Rhine. The Hiftory of Hatron is related at large by Trithemius in his Chronicles, by Camerarius in his Meditations, and many others. Calviſius reports, that in 1013. a certain Soldier was eaten by Rats. See Sam. ch . 6. ver.4, 5 . 1 From 92 A New Voyage Vol. I. From Bonn to Bingben , 7 or 8 Leagues below . Mentz , the Rhine is almoſt always between the Mountains ; this Paſſage, which it ſo happily met with, ſeems to be a particular Work ofPro vidence. You would fanſie it to be a Canal made on purpoſe for this River,through a Coun - 1 try, which naturally was inacceſſibleto it, leaſt not being able to continue its Courſe , it ſhould ſwell and overflow the Provinces, which now it only waters. At the foot of the Mountains, which thus ſhut it up, the whole Country is full of Vineyards ; and there are to be ſeen , on its Banks, both on the right and left Side, a great number of little Towns and good Villages. There is alſo a great Number of Caſtles , moſt of them built on Hills, and even on the points of the ſharpeſt Rocks. II counted above Forty ſince our departure from Cologn. I obſerv'd alſo by the way , a ſtrange Fanta fticalneſs in the Habits of the Peaſants, eſpe. cially the Women. About Bonn and Rbindorf they wear only on their Heads, a little Cap of colour'd Stuff,border'd with aa Galoonof another colour. Their Hair hangsin Treſſes quite down Vic their Backs. They make their Waſte extreamly ſhort, and have a broad Leather Girdle, with which they gird themſelves half a Foot below their Waſte, which compaſſes 'em with a thick folded Rowl, and lifts up their Petticoats ſo high, that they reach butlittle below their Knees. The Rhine is very broad , all the way becwixt MENT Z, Bingben and Mentz. At Mentz you go over it Az Arch-bilho- on a Bridge of Boats, which hath no Rails. prick and Uni. The firſt thing you meet with , when you come Verity. The to this City from Cologn, is the Élector's Palace ; try of Pepe it is of reddiſh Stone, and of an Architecture ac Joan. companied with a great number of Ornaments, after the German Faſhion ; otherwiſe ' tis both re gular and magnificent. The ! Native Coun Vol. I. to ITALY. 93 a The bad Weather hindred us from going to the Arſenal, as well as the Cittadel and other Fortifications. But we are aſſur'd our Loſs was not great, there being nothing remarkable in any of them . They told us, that in the middle of the Citta del there is a kind of Tower, commonly call's the Tomb of Druſus. Druſus Germanicus, Brother to Tiberius, died in Germany, and was extreamly I lamented by the People and the Army : But he died not on the Rhine. Beſides, you may re member, that his Body was carried to Rome, to be burnt in the field of Mars. It is true, that after Auguftus had cauſed the Senate to give him the Surname of Germanicus, he alſo caus'd Statues to be erected for him, with tri umphal Arches, and other Monuments on the Banks of the Rbine : And perhaps this Tower or Mauſolæum was an honorary Tomb, which the Ancients call'd xeror proy. The Ornaments in which the Electors celes brate Maſs, are extreamly Rich : And the Cam nopy under which the Hoſt is carried, on cer tain Occaſions, is all cover'd with Pearls. I remember I have read in the Chronicles of the Abbot of Uſperg, that they had formerly in the Treaſury of the Veftry , a hollow Emerald of the bigneſs and ſhape of half a large Melon. This Author ſays, that oncertain Days they put Water into this Cup, with two or three little Fiſhes that ſwam about in it ; and when the Cup was cover'd , they ſhew'd it to the People, and the Motionof the Fiſhes produc'd ſuch an Ef fećt, as perſuadedthefilly People that the Stone was alive. Every Ele&or bears the Arms of his own Houſe, but the Elector of Mentz Quarters Gules, - Wheel Argent, which are the Armsof the Ele ctorate . > 7 94 i A New Voyage Vol. I. 4 corate. It is ſaid thatthe Original of theſe Arms * Willigiſe came from the * firft Elector, who was the Son or Viligele of of a Cartwright. In the great Church there are theCountry of ſeveralmagnificent Tombs of theſe Princes,who The Chapter is uſually are buried there. wholly compo fed of Genilemen. There are 42 , of which 24, are only Capitularies. Two thirds. of their Suffrages are requir’d in the Choice of an Ele &tor. Heiſs . The Univer fity was founded by the Archbiſhop Dicherus, Anno 1482. Calvif. The Proteſtants may live at Mentz, but are not permitted to exerciſe their Religion. The City is indifferently large , but not very populous, and the Univerſity is in no very good condi tion. However, the Situation is very pleaſant, and the Country about it is extreamly fertile. You know the Elector of Mentz , is the firſt of the Eccleſiaſtick Electors, and therefore of the Electoral College. ' Tis by vertue of this Dig nity, that he has the Privilege to appoint the Day of Election, when an Emperor dies, or when a King of the Romans is to bechoſen. I ſhall ſay nothing of his Forces or Revenues, nor of thoſe of the other Princes ; for 'tis almoſt impoffible to procure an exact Account of Things of that Nature. I am, Mentz, Nov. 3 1687 . SIR, Your, & c . , LETA Pc Vol. I. 95 to I TAL Y. A! OrVIV LET TER VII. By HAR . SÍR, Aving paſsd the Rhine before Mentz , we entred into the Mein , which, by the way, is by ſome called Moganus , as well as Mænus ; and from thence ſome think Moguntia took its Name. We made uſe of the ordinary Boat of Francfort , where we arriv'd' the fame Day betime. ThisCity is larger,richer,fairer,and better peo pled than Mentz . It's Fortifications make a very FRANC FORT, fine ſhow , tho they have their defects. It is an Imperial ſeated in a flat Country, and hath no Suburbs. City. The Houſes are built of that red kind of Stone, Eleven Royal which I mention'd before, or of Wood and Plai- Baftions. fter cover'd with Slates. The Mein , which is a conſiderably large River , leaves it on the Right. A Stone Bridge , four hundred Paces long, makes the Communication between Franc fort and Saxenhauſen. I ſhall obſerve by the By , on the Article of Mein , that Charlemagne employd an Army during a whole Summer to dig a Canal of Communication between this River and that of Regnitz , and from the Reg nitz , as far as the Almo thac falls into the Danube ; in order by that means, to join the two Seas : But the Work was interrupted and given over. P. Bertius that mentions this great Undertaking, ſays, that the Marks of it are to be ſeen in di vers Places, but eſpecially near Weiſſenburg. Francfort is anImperial City, and has a ſmall Territory under its Government. The Senators are Lutherans, as alſo the greateſt Part of the In habitants. ୨6 A New Voyage Vol. 1. 1 1 1 1 habitants. The Roman Catholicks are in poffeffion of the principal Church ; in which the Ceremo ny of Anointing the Emperor is perform’d. But they carry the Hoft incognito, and make no pub lick Proceſſions. TheProteſtants, whom they call Calviniſts, have the Exerciſe of their Reli gion at Bokenheim, which is a ſmall Hour's Walk from thence, in the County of Hanau. They are oblig'd to marry and chriſten in the Luthea ran Churches.

• It was burnt In the * Town- houſe, we took a View of the in the rear Chamber in which the Emperor is Elected, and 1640, with where they keep one of the t Originals of the the Records ofGolden Bull : There is nothing magnificent in the City.

Charlemaign this Chamber. Its Furniture conſiſts of old Ta madeit a free piſtry Hangings, a large Table with a green City, and en- Carpet, and great Elbow -Chairs of black Velvet dow'd it for the Electors. On the ſide of this Chamber with very great Privia is the Hall, where certain Ceremonies are per leges. form’d , which ſucceed the Election ; and when + The other theyare over , the Emperor deſcends from two Originals are ar Prague, the Hall, and goes to the Church, where he and Heidel. ' is Crowned. bas publiſh'd a Tranſlation of this Bull, at the End of his Hiſtory of the Em . pire: All the three Originals are ſeal’d with the Same Seal, and written in Latin. The Golden Bull is a Book of Twenty Four Sheets of Parchment, in Quarto, which are fewed together , and covered with another Piece of Parchment,, without any Ornament.. The Seal is faſten'd to it by a filken String of many Cow lours, and is ſo cover'd with Gold, that it re ſembles a Medal : It is two Inches and a half in breadth , and a large Line in thickneſs. Upon the Seal is the Emperor Charles IV, Seated and Crowned, holding a Scepter in his Right- hand, and a Globe in his Left. The Scutcheon of the berg. Heiſs Empire Pe Vol. I. to ITALY 97 whom their Re gnico : in pof: Empire is on his Right, and that of Bohemia on heCache Left , with theſe Words round the whole, for Carolus Quartus divinâfavente clementia Romanorum Imperator ſemper Auguſtus; and on each ſide near the two Scutcheons, Et Bohemiæ Rex . On the Reverſe there is a kind of a Gate of a Caſtle be Tours tween twoTowers, which apparently denotes nak 2. Rome, this Verſe being written about it ; the le Roma Caput Mundi regit Orbis fræna rotundi. View all Teated And over the Gate, between the two Towers, Roma aurea . nals of The Bull was granted at Nuremberg, in January jofollo7 1356, by the Emperor Charles IV, with the Con ſent of all the States of the Empire , who were the affembl’d in that City. The Deſign of the Inſti lacke tutors was, that this Edict ſhould be perpetual Chas and irrevocable ; yet * many Innovations have * Particularly been ſince introduc'd according to the general in the Treaties and of manner of the Things of the World, in which lía. tothing is laſting, not even the Confeſſions of Faith of any one Sea of Chriſtians. It orders particularly the Form of the Ele&ion of the Em peror, or † the King of the Romans, whom it + The Emperor, frequently ftiles the Temporal Head of the and the King Chriſtian World. It contains alſo ſeveral Re - of the Ro gulations that relate to the Ele&ors, concern - senſe of the mans, in the ing their Rank, their Aſſemblies, their Privi- Bul, are bet leges and Immunities, the Right of Succeſſion one Perſon . In to the Electorate, and the Manner after which it he is often The every one of them is to perform his reſpective of the Faith cail'd the Head Function in publick Ceremonies. It ordains ful, and first theſe Princes to aſſemble once a Year to ſettle Prince of ihe the Affairs ofthe Empire. The Ele & or ofSaxo-Chriftian World . sy, in conjunction with the Elector Palatine, are declar'd Regents of the Empire, after the Death H of es ar cends : " nity FC ereo Pieces any a Jat ahali Um TICLE ho-biza nofthis 98 A New Voyage Vol.I. 1 of the Emperor. But ſince the Alteration that was made, in favour of the Duke of Bavaria, that Elector pretends to the Regency. ' Tis a Queſtion whether the Regency was annex'd to the Electorate, in which the Duke of Bavaria was inveſted, or whether it was entaild on the Family of the Counts Palatines. Now when there is a King of the Romans, he is perpetualVicar and Heir of the Empire. It was for this Reaſon , that Philip II , had only the Kingdom of Spain for his Share, and that Ferdinand his Uncle, who in the Life of Charles V was elected King of the Romans , ſucceeded in the Empire. Francfort is the Place appointed by the Bull , for the Election of the Emperor. . 7 Conveniunt Proceres, totius viſcera Regni, Sede ſatis notà , rapido que proxima Mæno Clara fitu, populoque frequens, muriſque decora eft

Sed rude nomen habet

Nam Teutonus Incola dixit,

Francofurt

Nobis liceat Sermone Latino

Francorum dixiſſe vadum

quia Carolus illic Sazonas indomità nimium feritate rebelles Oppugnans, rapidè latiſſima flumina Mæni Ignotofregile vado, mediumque per amnem Tranſmiſille ſuas, neglecto ponte,cobortes Creditur : inde locis manfurum nomen inbæjit.

Ligurinus de Electione Freder. I. 1 Nevertheleſs, Henry II , was choſen at Mentz , and Henry III . at Aix la Cbappelle

ſome have been alſo Ele&ed at Cologn, and others at Augs.

burg, and Ratisbonne. It was alſo ordain'd , that the Emperor ſhould be firſt crown'd ac Aix, which for a long time hath not been pra & iſed. Every 1 Vol, I. 99 to ITALY.

Every Elector may have * two Hundred Men * This is no loro for his Guard and Retinue, during the Time of ger obferu d. the Election. And the Citizens of Francfort are Eleeing the On the Day of to take care , that no Strangers be found in their Emperor, there City at thattime, upon pain of loſing their Pri- is awhole Ox ſerved in a vileges. This Bull contains many other Regula Diſh , roafted, tions, which I ſhall not at preſent relate. larded, and ſtuffed with, Wild Powels and Veniſon. After the really the Ox is lefs to the People. Bour jou Dign.Temp. Others ſay, The Emperor goes himſelf, and cuts fome Slices of the Ox as it is upon the Spir ; But a friend of mine here denies both. JA 2 - The famous Treacle of Francfort is made by Doctor Peters, who is very skilful in Pharmacy, and in other reſpects a very curious Perſon. There are more than a Hundred ſeveral Drugs that enter_this Compoſition , which are all rank'd in Pyramids , on a long Table. The Do& or hath many Antiquities, and other Ra rities, among which he highly values a Nephri tick Stone which is as big as one's Head, and coſt him 1600 Crowns. There are in this place a great Number of Jews, but they are as beggarly as thoſe of Am ſterdam are rich . They wear their Beards pick ed , like Charles I , and have black Cloaks, wich puffed Ruffs. They go from Tavern to Tavern, to ſell Things to Strangers : But beingreputed Thieves, one muſt takeheed of 'em. They are oblig'd to run and fetch Water when any Fire happens in the City . You know, the Fairs of Francfort contribute much to the Fame and Riches of that City. There are Three every Year, which bring a con ſiderable Trade to it. I am , Francfort, Nov.1. 1687. j Š I R, Your, & c . H 2 LET 100 A New Voyage Vol. l . LETTER VIII. A ' SIR, S we took Coach at Francfort to proceed on our Journey, we obſerv'd the Coach man to put a little Salt upon each ofhis Horſes, with certain little Ceremonies, which made Part of the Myſtery ; and this, as he told us, was to bring us good Luck , and to preſerve us from Charms and Witchcraft, during our Voyage. We paſſed the Rbine at Gernſheim , and after we had gone through a Forreſt almoſtdrowned, by the Overflowing of that River, ( which made the Ways both dangerous and difficult ) we found a very pleaſant Road between the End of thoſe WORMS Woods, and the City of Worms, which is but Vormatia, a Wordi det indtwo ſhort Leagues. This City is feated about from its añ = three or four hundred Paces from the left Bank cient Name of of the Rhine, in an excellent Country, and moſt Borbetoma pleaſant Situation . The fame Ligurinus that I gus. ( Βορβετό quoted in my laſt Letter to you , ſpeaks after ung G ' Ou- this manner of that Place. αγιόνων a pud Ptolem .) Vormatiam petiit, medio quægurgite Rbeni an Imperial City, and the Gallica Germanis opponit rura Colonis. Seat ofa Bi Utraque vinetis exuberat : utraque Pomis, shop, who is Piſcibus, atque Feris, & cunctis rebus, edendis. Suffragan to the Archbiſhop ' Tis enclos'd with a double Wall, without any of Mentz.

• Wormswas Garriſon , or even Fortification that is worth

formerly an inentioning. * The Biſhop hath a great Autho Arch- Biſhop rick ; but Pape Zachary removed the See to Mentz, to puniſh the Arch - biſhop Gervillian, who, contrary to his Faith, killed a Man , whom he invited out of the Camp of the Saxons bis Enemies , to bave a familiar Conference with bim. Heils, 9 rity , Vol. I. to ITALY. 101 9 rity , tho' it be a free and Imperial City : ' Tis thought to be almoſt as large as Francfort , but poor, and ill peopled. They Thewed me a Houſe that was lately ſold for a thouſand Crowns, which had been let formerly for a thouſand Crowns per Annum . There are many void Places in this City , in which they have planted ſuch quantity of Vines, that they yield every Year fifteen hundred Foudres of Wine out of 'em. The Foudre is a Cask which contains about two hundred and fifty Engliſh Gallons. Theyare very fond of this Wine, and they have a Pro verb , That it is ſweeter than the Virgin's Milk. The City preſents ſome of it to Perſons of great Quality , whopaſs that Way ; as alſo Fiſh and Oats. . The Fiſh is to ſhew the Right of Fiſhing, which they have on the Rhine ; but what the Oats ſignifie I know not : It cannot be to repreſent their Territory, becauſe they have none. The Lutherans have a Church here ;i and, beſides, they preach by turns with the Roman Catholicks, in that of theDominicans ; the reſt belong to the Roman Catholicks, who nevertheleſs do not carry the Hoſt publickly ,nor make any Proceffion , except the Day after Ea jter. The Proteſtants, whom I muſt once more name Calvinifts, to diſtinguiſh them from the Lutherans, have their Church at Newhauſen in the Palatinate, about half a League from the City. The Lutherans ſcruple not to go thither ſometimes to chriften their Children , ( if I have been well inform’d ) which is directly oppoſite to the Practice of the Lutherans at Francfort. They ſay, that a Lord of the Houſe of Alberg, havingbrought ſeveral Jewsfrom Paleſtine, fold Thirty of them for a piece of Silver, to the City of Worms : where they were for a long time treated as Slaves, before they could obtain the Libero a H133 102 A New Voyage Vol. I. 1 that this ce. Liberty which they enjoy at preſent, in common with the other Inhabitants. The Church of St. Paul ſeems to be an ancient Building ; but I believe that of St. John is older. The latter is built with very large ſquare Stones, and its Figure is altogether irregular. The Walls are above twelve Foot thick, the Windows are narrow, and there is a Corridor round the out fide of the Building, where the Wall is joyn'd to I find in Ber. the Top. There is but little Appearance that tius, ſeveral this was built for a Church. The Cathedral is r.ars after my writing this," a long Building of a confiderable Height, with a Tower at each ofthe four Corners ; the whole Church was Structure is very maſlive, and full of Gothick Or formerly the naments. They ſhewed us a certain Animal, Duke's P Tunc muta- over one of the Doors of this Church , of tum eſt pala. which the People tell divers Stories. ' Tis as big tium Ducis as an Aſs, and hath four Heads ; one Head of in Monafte sium a Man, one of an Ox , one of an Eagle, and ; ex quo poftea one of a Lion : It lifes up the two firſt, and facta eſt Ec- lets the other two hang down. The right Foot cleſia Colle- before is a Man's , the left an Ox's , the two giata quæ di-hinder Feet are of an Eagle and a Lion : And citur Sanéti Pauli. a Woman ſits upon the Beaſt. If I durft pe netrate into this Myſtery, I think it might be conjectur’d, that this Hieroglyphick is a Chi mera compoſed of the four Animals in the Vi. fion of Ezekiel, by whome ſome underſtood the Evangeliſts, and that the Woman repreſents the Goſpel. I took notice of a Picture, upon the Altar of one of the Chappels of this Church, in which * The Roma the Virgin is repreſented , receiving Chriſt as he nifts Churches,deſcends from the Croſs , while ſeveral Angels Chappels, & c . are full of mula carry the Inſtruments of the Crucifixion to Hea tiply'd Lances, ven . But either the Painter was miſtaken , or Nails, Thorns elſe the Angels have ſince * brought back all ofSpanzas the,Crown & c. , theſe Inſtruments, that are now preſerv'd asRe licks , There dal Vol. I. to ITALY 103 5011 Sto : theo oyni cet nedir ht , ich, is Hei ple, There is another very curious Pi&ure at the Entrance of the Church of St. Martin , over a moveable Altar. This Picture is about five Foot ſquare. God the Father is at the Top in one of the Corners, from whence he ſeems to ſpeak to the Virgin Mary,who is on her Knees in the mid dle : The holds the little Infant Jeſus hanging by the Feet, and puts his Head into the Hopper ofa . Mill : the Twelve Apoſtles turn the Mill with their Hands, and they are affifted by the four Beaſts of Ezekiel, who work on the other ſide. Not far off the Pope kneels to receive the Hoſts, which fall from the Mill ready made into a Cup of Gold : he preſents one to a Cardinal , the Cardinal gives it to a Bishop, the Biſhop to a Prieſt, and the Prieſt to the People. There are in this City two Houſes that belong to the Publick ; one of which is call’d the Bur ger's-Houſe, in which the Senate aſſembles twice every Week, about the Affairs of the State. The other is for the Magiſtracy, and is the Place where common Cauſes are pleaded. It was in the firſt that Luther had the Courage to appear on an Occaſion whichis known to all the World, in the Year 1521. They tell us, that this Do Etor, having ſpoken with a great deal of Vehe mency, and being beſides heated by the Warmth of the Stove which was before him, ſome body brought himаa Glaſs of Wine, which he receiv'd ; but he was ſo intent upon his Diſcourſe, that he forgot to drink, and without thinking of it , fet the Glaſs upon a Bench which was by his fide i immediately after the Glaſs broke of it ſelf, and they are firmly perſwaded that the Wine was poi ſon's. I will not make any Reflections upon this Story, but I muſt not forget to tell you , that the Bench on which he ſet the Glaſs is at preſens full of Holes that were made by cutting off little Pieces, if ? che i ] : ut tt Code pr . VIS back 2 IK H.4 104 A New Voyage Vol. I.

Pieces, which ſome zealous Lutherans preſerve in Memory of their Maſter. Luther ſpeaks pretty large of what happen'd to him at VVorms, in his Colloquia Menſalia , Chap. 1, 28, and 52 . We went alſo to ſee another Houſe, which they call the Mint ; in which, among other Things, I obſerv'd a * Skin of Parchment, in a ſquare Frame, upon which there are twelve Sorts of Hands, written very fairly, with ſeve ral Miniatures,and Draughts boldly traced with a Pen. It was written by one Thomas Schuvejo ker, who was bornwithout Arms, and perform'd this with his Feet.

• Theſe two Verſes are written on the top of the Leaf.

Mira fides, pedibus Juvenis facit omnia recta ; Cui pariens mater brachia nulla dedit. They alſo ſhew another little round Piece of Vellum , about the Bigneſs of a Guinea , upon which the Lord's Prayer is written , without Abbreviations. But this is no extraordinary Thing. I know a t Man who wrote the ſame + Maximin Prayer ſix times in as ſmall a Compaſs, more di Mollileni. ftinaly ;; and even, without the Help of a magni fying Glaſs. This Houſe hath a long Portico, be tween the Arches of which hang great Bones and Horns. Theyſay the former are the Bones of Giants, and the latter the Horns of the Oxen which drew the Stones with which the Cathedral is built. And are not theſe very Camerarius curious and venerable Pieces ? The Out- ſide of writes, that the Houſe is full of ſeveral Paintings, among in his Time which there are many Figures of armed Giants, ſome of the Bones of thoſe which, in the Inſcription below , are called Giaxis weré Vangiones. ' Tis well known, that the People kept in the who formerly inhabited this Part of the Arfonal. Rhine , were called Vangiones , as we find in Tacitus, and others; but I cannot tell the Reafon 1 Vol. I. to 'ITAL Y 105 s $ a 6 ſon why they would have theſe Vangiones to be Giants. Nevertheleſs, theſe tall and big Men make a great Noiſe at Worms, where they tell many fine Stories of ' em. I have a Mind to add here, in this lajt Edition , a Singularity, which I take from Moriconys, and of wbich alſo I bave fome Remembrance myſelf. • Over-againſt the Biſhop's Houſe, ſays that Traveller, there is a little Place, in which they pronounce Sentence of Death againft Criminals. And they ſhew , at about ten " Paces Diſtance from the Door of the ſaid Houſe , a ſhort Stone Pillar ſer into the Ground, like a Boundary , round which they make the Criminal také three Turns ; that if, during that Time, he can touch this Stone ; or elſe , if a young Woman can come at him , and kiſs him three times, he be deliver'd : But there are appointed Perſons, faith the Author, always to hinder both. Let every one judge as he pleaſes of the Original and Uſe of this ridiculous and cruel Cuſtom . I muſt mention here alſo another Particular about Worms, that I met with by chance a few Days ago in the Commentary of Mr. Huldri cus's ſuppos’d Hiſtory of the pretended Rabbi Fuchanan Ben Saccai, concerning Jeſus Chriſt : (a Book which, by the bye, is truly deteſtable in it ſelf ; and, in my Opinion, would have been much better not to have been publiſh'd in Latin . ) This Fool of a few, I mean Fu chanan , which was born at Worms, as we have very ſtrong Reaſons to conjecture : this Rabbin, I ſay , pretends that there were Jews at Wormsa long time before theComing ofour MESSIAS ; and that Herod ſent Expreſſes to them, to con fult what ſhou'd be done with Him ; and that their Synagogue at Worms voted all for the ſaving 6 a ز 106 A New Voyage Vol. 1. ſaving of his Life : From whence he concludes, that the Fews of Worms ought to be diſtinguiſh'd from the others, and favoured by the Chri ftians. And, indeed, Mr. Wagenſeilius, who is cited by the Commentator, ſays, that there are fome Jews at Worms that have better Notions of Jeſus Chriſt than the reſt of the Jews have. Mr. Huldricus ſays alſo, in quoting Rabbi Geda lia ) that the fews of Worms believe that the Tetragrammaton is written ( inviſibly ) in the Roofof their Synagogue ; which is the Reaſon why they never touch it with a Broom, to wipe off the Spiders and Cobwebs. FRANKEN . We only paſs’d throʻ Frankendal, the Fortifica DAL tions of which are pretty good, and would be better if they were lined ; for they are forced to ſlope them too much, becauſe the Soil, too foft, and, I ſuppoſe, fandy, could not otherwiſe ftand faſt. And this Defeat has appear'd greater MANHEIM yet, in the Fortifications of Manheim . Theſe two little Places belong to the Elector Palatine : 'tis but two Hours Journey from the one to the other. The Situation of Manbeim is its greateſt Strength : For it is not commanded by any riſing Ground, and is almoſt ſurrounded by the Neckar and the Rhine , which that Place commands. There is a good Garriſon in the Citadel ; but the greateſt Rarity that I found in it, is the Temple callid che Concord. The Elector Charles Louis, Father of the late Elector Charles, cauſed this Church to be built to ſerve in common for thoſe that are Fol lowers of the Sects of Calvin, of Luther,and of the Pope. This is the Truth of the Matter, as I ſhall prove to you by and by : And, really, on the Day of its Conſecration, a Prieſt of the Romiſh Catholick Perſwafion preach'd in his Turn, after the Reform’d ones. “ Some ſay it was only thro' the Vol. I. : to ITALY. 107

the Humour and Caprice of the Prince. They add alſo, that the Diſcourſe of the Romißh Prieſt i was rather an Encomium on the Elector, than a Sermon ; and that That Prince ſo little in tended to introduce the Romih Worſhip into this new Church , that, during his Life, the Lu therans and the Calviniſts had the ſole Uſe of it. I know thatthe Elector, who fear'd the Noiſe and Affaults of the Reform'd Prieſts, was very circumſpect with the Romißh ones ; but, how ever, what I am going to ſay, will clearly prove that the Intention of the Founder did outwardly embrace together the three Sects, within the Walls of his CONCORD. The following Croſs is placed upon one End of the Roof of the Church; and the hidden Meaning of this ſort of Hieroglyphick (ofwhich 1 am particularly inform’d ) makes the Truth of what I advance evidently to appear. The Croſs in the Middle, is the Croſs of CHRIST, or, if you pleaſe, of Chriſtianity. From this Croſs proceed three others, that are however join'd to it, and have it always for their Support ; and the other three Croſſes deſign the three Seas of Luther, Calvin , and the Pope, which have all three (as well as the other Sects of which the World is full ) the true Foundation of Faith, to wit, JESUS CHRIST. The Deſign of the Founder was not only to ſhew . that the different Chriſtian Sects have one and the ſame Origin, and retain the Reality and Eſſence of the true Saving Doctrine ( none of 'em denying the Title of Chriſtians to the Reſt that diffent from them ; ) but he alſo lets us fee, by this Figure, that hewas willing to reunite theſe wandering Croſſes in the Croſs in the Middle, that repre ſented his Temple of Concord . After this, can one any longer call in Queſtion the Deſign of this Concordial and Pacifying Prince ? ܕ݁ܳܐ ; ز If / 108 A Vol. I. 012 New Voyage 1 i all V 190 1 If more Leiſurewould give me Leave,Icould very willingly add ſome Reflexions on this im portant Matter, which is both ſo ill underſtood and treated of between the Multitude of lamen table Vol. I. to ITALY 109 table Sects, not to ſay Cabals and Factions, that cruelly tear and divide the Chriftian World ; but it is neither poffible , nor reaſonable for me to engage my ſelf, here, in a long Diſcourſe. I ſball only deplore the unſucceſsful Workof our mild Elector, in that vain Re-union of thoſe whom he brought together in his little Temple , without having united at all their Hearts and Opinions. To what Purpoſe is it to have Mi niſters of every Se& preach and pray in the ſame Place, if every one, perlifting in their old Hatredand Fury, is always ready to per fecute thoſe that are not of his Faction (which he calls Religion,) and in his Notions ? And if every one, full of himſelf, and of his pretended Orthodoxy, treats the reſt of Mankind as Here ticks, and condemns ' em to the Flames, thoº they do not diſpute but about accidentalMat ters, that have nothing to do with the Primi tive Purity, or the Effential Part of Chriſtiani ty, in which they all agree ? To re -unite the Prieſts of Manheim , as alſo a great many others, there muſt be a Method found out to engage ' em in the ſame Intereſt . If the Elector had only given to each of thoſe Do & ors a good Penſion , on Condition they would agree the Matter ſo well among themſelves, and order the Terms in ſuch a manner, that all mightfind his own Belief in them , and ſpeak the ſame Lan guage, we ſhould quickly have ſeen all the vain Subjects of their Controverſies retrench'd ; they would unanimouſly have apply'd themſelves on ly to what was ſubſtantial and neceſſary , and ſo have paſs'd the Remainder of their Days peaceably , in a VERITABLE CON CORD ; like good and TRUE CHRISTI ANS. Of all thoſe infinite Number of Pro poſitions that have been made, in order to unite all > . 110 A New Voyage Vol. I. 4 ز .and all the different Religions, or rather Sects, I dare boldly ſay , that this laft is the only * I mean to one that is * reaſonable . Without inſiſting omis thoſe como then any longer on the Intention of Charles troverted Que Hions, or Mat. Lewis, theFounder of this little Temple, the ters, thatmay Matter of Fact is, that nowthe preſent Elector, be leff off, as being a Roman Catholick, hasthought fit to join 1106 belonging thoſe of his Communion with the others. The to the Know ledge of salva.three Miniſters of the three ſeveral Religions, tion ; and to perform , each in their Turn , Divine Service in infif onlyupon the Church ofConcord. They begin and end fundament al ſucceſſively ; ſo that once in three Sundays, And neceſarg Doctrines. each of the three Miniſters hath the Privilege to begin firſt, as alſo to be the ſecond and the third. The Church is not large, but pretty fine. The Pulpit is in common :When the Roman Catholicks have ended Mafs, they draw the Curtain, and hide the Altar. You will not be diſpleas'd at my ſaying ſomea thing alſo concerning the Medals that are en clos d in the Foundation- Stone of that Buildings that the Elector laid with his own Hands. The chiefeſt Medal is of Gold of the Rhine : ( for one may extract ſome from the Sands of that famous River, if he hath a mind to be at greater Ex pence than the Gold is worth. ) That Medal weighs ſix Ducats, and is three Inches diame On one sidethere are theſe Words ; ()1) D.D. O. M. Æ. ( 1 ) Deo, Optimo, Maximo, DIVA. HOC. CONCORDIA fierno. Monumentum . Sacr. Adem . Perpetua. Securitati. ( 2 ) At his Expence, and ( 2) De. Suo do. in . Suo. in his Fortreſs. ( 3 ) Pro.lui.Dimidio. ſe toto ſuiſque. ( 3 ) For the half of Him , Vovens, extrux. ſelf ( the laft Wife he Prim . Lapid. fua. man. marry'd , & c.) She was Pofuit. interi'd in this Church, 1 w 1925 ter. kohe CE 1991 Then 15 3 CA Veli 1 . to ITALY KU ther Seat ut info : of Chat emple, fic to la and d and Cettyto AROLUS. LUDOVICUS. choſen to be, for the Pal. El future, the Sepulcher of M. DC. L. XXVII. the Family : and the XXVIII. Martii. Elector was alſo bu V. S. ' 7. M. . ry'd there Five Years after. ant Elst And on the other Side, ers. To Religia (4) Ex Aur. Rb. Pal. (4) Ex Auro Rhenan . Pe Julu. Principis. latinatûs, or Palatino. Bernice . There is alſo a Silver Medal, with the Figure Sunda of that Temple on one side ( Diva Concordia ,) i Prives and on the other, a Thunder- bolt upon an Al tar, with this Word Confecratio. Theſe Medals are accompany'd with a Bible, and a Bottle of niek Claret, and another ofWhite-wine. draw About Forty Yearsago, Manbeim was but a little Village in the Place where the Citadel ng fo.x. ſtands at preſent. *<- Frederick, Father of Charles * King of Bo Lewis, cauſed it to be fortify'd , and named it Fre-hemia, of Builde dericksburg ; and at the ſame Time the City was which ds.1 built, which reſum'd the Name of Manheim ,when wespeak See above, for Ck and wasfortify'd alſo. All the Streets are inof Rhenen Atraight Lines , and in ſome of ' em there are Ex Trees planted, as in Holland. Manheim is a very pretty Place. Every Day at Five of the dian ' Clock in the Morning , at Noon, and at Six ards; in the Evening, there are hired Muſicians, who Merci fing Part of a Pſalm on the Tower of the Town- houſe. They have ſuch loud Inftru ments, that they are heard all over the Town. This Cuftom prevails in moſt Places of the ce , and Palatinate. When we leftManbein , after we had paſſed the Neckar on a Bridge of Boats, we traverſed a very fertile Plain, which continues for three large She was Hours, to the Foot of the Mountains of Heidel t are you may aces * Media els ofHim Church CA bios : 112 A New Voyage Vu uiterly laid ز berg. Theſe Mountainsmake a long ridge, anda, pear as if the Paſſage were ftopt up. Yet we me with an opening, through which the Neckar goes HEIDEL.out. Wepafs’d this River on a cover'd Bridge, BERG. and found the City of Heidelberg on the other The Univer faty Side, which lies high and low among the Trees by Count ko. and Rocks. It is no very fine City, andI know Ro bert, 1346 not by what Spirit ofContradiction, theyhave built it almoſt all of Wood, tho' they may have eaſily had good Stone in abundance. The Prince's Palace is upon the Hill. It conſiſts of many * This CitywsPieces join'd together, and is not finiſh'd . * The Storm'd, and whole is built of Free -Stone, and ſome Parts of it are of a fine Architecture. They have made waſteby the French, May, Gardens among the Rocks, but for all the Care 22. 1693. they have taken to adorn the Place, it is ſtill melancholy and irregular, if we take all toge 1 ther ; and in my opinion the moſt advanta gious Title that can , with Juſtice, be beſtow'd upon this Houſe, is thatofa magnificent Hermi tage. Not long ago the Dutcheſs of Orleans, Siſter of the laſt Elector, and Inheritrix of ſome Part of his Goods, cauſed the Furniture of this Caftle to be taken away, ſo that we found it very bare. Every thing was ſold even to the Wine of the famous Tun , and probably they wou'd have The Coloſſus taken that away too, had not the Toy been too of Rhodes, Cumberſome. They go up to it by a Pair of Jays Mr.Patin, Stairs of fifty Steps, and above there is a Plata form twenty Foot long, encompaſs’d with Ba between its lifters. The Arms of the Elector are placed in Thighs, than the fineſt Part of the Tun. Bacchus in the lar this grest Tuin geft Size, with I know not how many Satyrs, Intrails. It is, and other Topers are there alſo . 'Tis adorn'd with Vines, Grapes, Glaſſes, and large Flag foot lorg, and 21 high. gons in ballo relievo. And there are likewiſe many German Apothegms on this rich Sub ject. The did not bold mare Water Wine in its adds he, 31 wollte The Hadelburgh non WUND וחו B 0 e ONE Yol.2.P.112 . Plate 2 , 1 1 Vol. 1 . to ITALY. 113 The Misfortunes of War, of which this Coun try has been made ſo often the Seat, have re duc'd it to a very poor Condition, though it be naturally very good. All Religions are tolerated; but the Magiſtrates are all Proteſtants. In the Die ro . Jan. great Church of this City, there are ſeveral mag- An 1546. nificent Tombs of the Counts Palatines : That Miffa Heide! of Robert, King of the Romans, and Founder ofbergæ in po polari linge the Univerſityof Heidelberg is in the Quire . peracta fuir. You are not ignorant of the Loſs which Hei- Calvifius. delberg ſuſtain'd in the Year 1622, when its famous Library was tranſported to the Vatican. 1 I am, Heidelberg, Nov. 12. 1637 SIR, Your, & c. [ Paulus Meliſſus Francus à Myrtis eam di&tam exi ftimavit, quafi Myrtorum Urbem . Itaque illam idcirco Solitus fuit vocare Myrtilletum ; & in Xeniis fic eam loquentem fingit ; Heidelberga vocor, Myrtilli veſcula Dona, Monte ſub Arboſo , mî tribuere notam. Civitas olim magnifica, potens, elegans. ' Ager vici nus omnium rerum ad vitam necellarium est ferax. Montes quippe Vineis do Caftaneis, Ager Segetibus ; Sylve Feris ; Amnes Piſcibus, valles Fontibus abun 3 dant.] P. Bertius. I LET 114 A New Voyage Vol.I. LETTER IX . Ta , SIR, W O good Hours on this ſide Heidelberg, we andafterwards met with manymore. They ſet fire to them, cut them down and pluck them up as much as they can ; but the Nature of the Soil produces them ſo faſt , that they cannot be ut terly deſtroy'd. All this Country is very poor, and Money is ſo ſcarce , that about Wifeloch and Sintzheim, a Loafof Wheaten Bread, weighing eight Pounds, coſts but Two- pence. We ſpent four Days in coming hither from Heidelberg ; and we ſcarce ſaw any thing but Firr- Trees all the Way i; I believe there are not more in Carolina : There are I know not how many little Towns, which deſerve not to be mention'd . WIN. Winſheim is the beſt ofthem , and is a Free City SHEIM , as well as Wimpben. All the Inhabitants of both an Imperial City. are Lutherans. " I fancy, a more pleaſant Aſſem WIMPHEN, bly was never ſeen than that of the Burgo -Ma en Imperial' fters of the little City of Palemberg. Thoſe Gen City. tlemen were in the ſame Inn where we eat, PALE M- which is the place where they ordinarily meet, BERG, when they have any important Affair to de bate. Imagin you ſee a dozen or fifteen Pea ſants in their Sunday's Clothes , with high crown's Hats loaden with green and yellow Ribbon, with red or blue Waſt-coats, and Ruffs or Cravats of black Taffeta : Their Hair cu round cloſe below theirEars, and their Beards after the manner of the Capuchins . The whole Club half drunk or fuddld , their Elbows on the Ta ble, every Man with a large Glaſs in his Hand, drinking + Vol. I. to ITALY. 115 + drinking without intermiſſion , ſplitting of Cau ſes, and every one ſtriving to outbawl his Fel low . Their Geſtures and Poftures are much more diverting, but ſuch as cannot be expreſſed. In the mean time, it is not at all ſtrange, that they ſhould love Drink ſo much in this Country ,fince they can have four large Pots of Wine for a Peny ; for they know not what a ſmallMealure means. If a Traveller demand a Cup of Wine as he goes by, they bring him a large Jack, enough to make ten Men drunk. The Tabacco and the Hops ſupply the place of Vines, when you approach this Place; and the mountainous Country begins to grow even and lower; ſo that you may ſee the great and fair City of Nuremberg at a good diſtance. Before NUREM we arriv'd there we often found our felves on BERG, the Banks of the little River of Pegnitz , which anNoriberga Imperial, runs from it, but ferves only to turn the Mills. City , It might be eaſily made Navigable, and the Pro fit that would accrue by ſuch an Undertaking would recompenſe the Charge. But this Defea doth not hinder Nuremberg from being a City of great Trade, very rich, and well peopled. It is ſaid to be twice as big as Francfort ; and it hath ſeven other Towns in its Territory, with Four Hundred and Eighty Boroughs and Villages. Its Fortifications are of little eſteem in reſpect of thoſe that are now in uſe; But it enjoys a profound Peace : And being in the Heart of Germany, its Neighbours preſerve it while they defend themſelves. Should the Em peror be Maſter of Nuremberg, as he is of his hereditary Countries, it would not be very ad yantagious to him : For , after all , as free as theſe little States are, they are nevertheleſs Slaves to the Emperor, being, at the ſame time,Fiefsof the Empire. They are oblig'd to contribute Men, Arms, 9 I 2 116 A New Voyage Vol. I. Arms, and Money, upon occaſion : And there wou'd be a thouſand Ways found to torment them, if they ſhou'd refuſe to perform what is requir'd of them . It haih 6 Nuremberg is a very fair City, though the Stru bates , 228 cture of its Buildings is fomewhat Gothick, and principal Sireets not at all agreeable to the beſt Rules of good , 12 public ? Founa Architecture . The Houſes are generally large, iains, and 118 handſome, and ſtrongly Built. Someof'em are Wils, Gal. painted on the Oat- ſide, and almoſt all the reft Gualdo. are of very fine Free- Stone. There are Foun tains of Braſs in ſeveral Places of the City : We ſaw a very magnificene one, which is yet at the Artificer's Houſe, on whichthere are Figures of Braſs, to the Value of Seventy thouſand Crowns, as he ſays, beſides other Ornaments. The Streets are broad, clean , and well paved ; but 'tis pity they are not more ſtraight. The Tradition of the Country will have Nuremberg to be built by Nero, and there is one of the Towers of the Caſtle which is ' call the Tower of Nero ; but this is but a poor Argument. I rather think that Noriberga, called alſo in Latin Mons Norico rum , was derived from Noricum , the old Name ofthe Country, and the Word Berg, which in High -German ſignifies a Mountain . The Emperor The Caſtle is on a high Rock, though the reſt odges in the of the City is flat . The Figure of the Caftle is Cafle when he wholly irregular, becauſe they have been forced has occafion to paſs through to make it agreeable to the Maſs of the milhapen 3. City and unequal Rock. They aſſur'd us, that the Well in it was Sixteen hundred Foot deep , but none of us would believe them ; they alſo told us, that the Chain of the Bucket weighs Three thouſand Pounds. Weſaw in one of the Halls of this Caſtle , Four Corinthian Pillars, about fifteen Foot high ; which, they ſay, the Devil brought from Rome, upon a Challenge, which a Monk made

1 Vol. I. to ITALY 1177 Crown was made him. The Story would be too tedious to relate at length.. They tell another of a famous Conjurer ofthe Country, who leap'd on Horſe back over the Caſtle Ditches, and new the Print of the Horſe's Shoes on one of the Stones of the Parapet. The Ornaments which are uſed at the Anoin ting ofthe Emperor, are kept in the Church of the Hoſpital. The Diadem or the Crown, called * Infula, * This is rise is of Gold, and covered almoſt all over with pre Crown of ciousStones. It is not cloſed as the Impe- Ieweighs fozera Charlemaign. It rial Crown is uſually painted. Suppoſe that teen pounds. inſtead of the Fleurets on Ducal Coroners, there The Privilege are Plates rounded on the top, which are joined ofkeeping this bytheſides, and make the compaſs of the Cap: granted toNe There are ſeven of them , and chat before is the remberg by moſt richly adorn'd . There is a Croſs on the top the Emperor of all , and a Semicircle ſupported becween the Sigiſmund, two Plates behind, which is rais'd above the Bon net, and join'd to the top of the Croſs. The Scep, ter and Globe are of Gold ; and they ſay that the Sword was brought by an Angel from Heaven, The Robe call'a Dalmatick, of Charlemaign, is of a Violet Colour,embroider'd with Pearls. The Im perial Cloak is edg'd with Pearls, and ſtrew'd with Eagles of Gold, and a great number of Jewels. There are likewiſe the Cope, the Stole, * the * Embroiderá Gloves, the Breeches , the Scockings, and the with precious + Buskins. They alſo keep many Relicks in this Cover'diri Church ; and among others, St. Longin's Lance. Plates of Gold They are notignorant that this pretended Lance is to be ſeen in above ten other Places of the World ; but, they fay, theirs came from * An- * Lancea D. tioch , it was St. Andrew who found it ; one ſingle mini reper Manwith it diſcomfited a whole Army 3; it was eft in àAnti dam ruftico cui beatus Andréas locum oftendic. Quidam cam ea so tum exercitum letificavit, W. Roolwink 1 ; the a Storer, ز EV quor 118 A New Voyage Vol. 1: Thing, he made a the thing of the World which Charlemaign loved It is a very ſtrange moſt. The other Lances are Counterfeits, and not uſe of it a this is the true one : They make much of it as gainſt all hisEne- a precious Memorial, if they do not Worſhip it mies, ſeeing its Creat Virtue, 6by, asa Relick. Theyhave alſo an extraordinary which he could de- Veneration for a piece of the Croſs , in the ſtroy 'em all at ence, and ſpare midſt of which there is a Hole that was made Men and Money. by one of the Nails. They tell us , that here | Tantum tofore ||the Emperor's plac'd their greateſt Hopes præfidii in il- of Proſperity and Succeſs, both in Peace and lis poſuerunt War, in the Poſſeſſion of this enlivening Wood, Imperatores, with the Nail, and 7 other Relicks that are ur ſine eorum poffeffione, kept at Nuremberg. fibi nec No men competere, nec Numen penes fe effe exiftimârint. Neque domi faltem in Gazophylaciis fuis fedem illis ponebant, fed militiæ quoque hoc quaſi Palladium fecum habebant : Et quando cum hoftibus dimicandum erat, omnis Vi&oriæ fpes fuper illis nitebatur. Defcr. Imp. Lipjanorum ,

1. The Lance, the Piece of the Wood of the Croſs, one of the Nails, five Thorns

of the Crown thatwas put upon Chriſt's Head , Part of the Chains with which St. Peter and St. Paul were bound at Rome, a little Piece of the Manger , a Tooth of St. John Baptiſt, one of St. Anne's Arms, the Towel with which Chriſt wipid the Feet of his Apoſtles, a Piece of St. John the Evangelift's Gown, and a piece of the Cloth with which the Table was cover'd when our Saviour celebrated the Pafover, and his laſt Supper with his Diſciples. Their Lance puts me in mind of their Arſenal, which is one of the moſt renowned in Germany. There are two great Halls in it, each two hun dred and fifty Paces long, and well ftor’d with + In time Year Arms. We counted three hundred Pieces of 1453, Maho. Cannon2 ; but, to ſpeak truth, the greateſt part met II be . of the other Arms are after the old manner , feged Con ftantinople, Muskets and Harquebuffes,Helmets andCuiraſſes and batter'd it in great number; fine Hangings for Arſenals, with ſeveral andof no other Uſe. There are many of thoſe Pieces of Can non of Four great Cannons of a monſtrous Bore, which they Hundred Pound callMermaids and Baſilisks ? and the biggeſt of Ball. Therewas theſe Pieces carries ta three hundred Pound Ball . ene among $t the reft ſo heavy, that there were leventy Yokes of Oxen to draw it, Calvif. We ز Vol. I. to ITALY 119 We alſo ſaw the Library ; it is in a Cloyſter which formerly belonged to the Dominicans, and contains as they ſay, Twenty thouſand Volumes. This was collected out of the Ruins of ſeveral Convents, in the Time of the Reformation . The moſt ancient Manuſcript thatthey cou'd not find, is, ſay they, 900 Years old ; it is a copy of the Goſpels, with Prayers and Hymns thenuſed in the Greek Church . I obſerved a Book which was printed at Spire, in the Year 1446 ; but there it is a Tres. might be an Errorin the Figures, for they ſhew - tiſe of Predea finarios edus another of the Impreſſion of Fauftus at Mentz , in 1459, at the End of which there is an Advertiſement, which tells us, That this Book was not written by theHand, but was printed by an admirable Secret newly Invented. ' Tis probable that this was the firſt Impreſſion which was made at Mentz ; and if it be ſo , there is no ground to ſuppoſe, that another Book was prin ted at Spire, thirteen Years before : Nor had Fauftus any Reaſon to boaſt ſo much of his new Secret. ' I have heard, that there is another Im preffion of Durandus's Officiale at Bafil, printed by Fauſtus in the ſame Year, 1459. They keep in this Library many Rarities and curious Antiquiries, butthey are not comparable to thoſe that are in the Cabinet of Mr.Viati. We ſaw , at this Gentleman's Houſe, a pretty large Chamber quite fill’d with divers Arms of all Countries , all Uſes , and all Faſhions. It is ſcarce to be conceived , how one Man, and he a private Perſon , who hath not the Eſtate of a Prince, or a very great Lord, could make ſuch a vaſt Collection ; for the Number is very great, and, I believe, brought from the four Corners of the World. He lhewed us the Experiment of a Wind- Gun, which is a very pretty , but a moſt deſtructive Invention ;រ becauſe with this Engine 3 : 3 ز 1' 14 I 20 a New Voyage Vol. 1 Engine great Miſchiefs may be done afar off, and without any Noiſe. From this Chamber you may go into another, where there are rare Pictures, Medals , curious Works ancient and modern, Idols, Shells, Plants, Minerals, and other natural Productions. The Town -Houſe is very large and has a very beauciful and well-proportion'd Front, but it wants a Court before it. When we went from thence , our Friends brought us to the City Cellar, which is Two Hundred and Fifty Paces long, and contains,as they told us, Twenty thouſand Tuns of Wine. We muſt allow it to be a very fair Cellar : But the truth is, ſuch People as we , knew not how to reliſh all the Pleaſures of it. Germanorum You know the Germans are ſtrange Drinkers ; vivere bibere there are no People in the World more obliging, eft . civil, and officious; but they have terrible Cu ftoms as to the point of Drinking. They do no thing without Drinking ; which ſeemsto be both their Buſineſs and Recreation . There is not Time given to ſpeak three Words in a Viſit , but prea ſently comes the Collation, or at leaſt fome large Jars of Wine, with a Plate full of Crufts of Bread

• Tb Duke of haſh'd with Pepper and Salt ; a fatal Preparative Rohan ſays in for ſuch poor Drinkers as weare. But before we hu Voyage, proceed , I muſt give you an account of thoſe shat the Ger- facred and inviolable Laws that are afterwards mans bave ficceeded bet- to be obſerv'd. Every Draught muſt be a Health,

and aſſoon as you have emptied your Glaſs, you theMathema. muſt preſent it full to him whofe Health you Ticians of the World in find drunk. You muſt never refuſe the Glaſs which ing out the is preſented, but drink it off to the laſt Drop. perpetual Mo- Do but reflect a little on theſe Cuſtoms, and ſee 1:01,by the case how it is poſſible to leave off drinking : and tirial Agita dren of their indeed, they never make an end, * but carouſe Cuans. in a perpetual Round : To drink in Germany is to ter than el hii Vol. to 10 i TÅL Y. 121 IR CK Pau is El to drink eternally. Pardon my Digreſlion , and judge of our troubleſome Entertainment in the Cellar. You muſt do Penance there for ſome time , and at laſt hide your ſelf behind the Casks, ſteal away and make your eſcape. You muſt further know, that the Glaffes are as much reſpected in this Country as the Wine is belov’d. They place them all en Parade. The greateſt Part of the Chambers are wainſcotted, to two thirds of the Walls , and the Glaſſes are ranged all about upon the Corniſh of the Wainſcot, like Pipes of Organs. They begin with the Little, and end with the Great ones ; and there Great ones are always us'd , and muſt be empty'd at a Draught , when there is any Health of Importance . At going out of the Cellar wewent to a Confort, where we hoped we ſhould find nothing but Muſick ; but the Bread , Pepper, Salt , and Wine follow'd us in ſuch abundance, that an Air was no ſooner finish ed, but the whole Company roſe up todrink. We ſaw Yeſterday in the Evening fome part of the Celebration of a Wedding. The future Husband, accompanied with a long Train of his Relations , came firſt to the Church. He walked from a Houſe , which was not two hun dred Paces diftant , whither he was come in a Coach. His Bride, who was in the ſame Place, follow'd a while after , being alſo attended by a great Number of her friends. When both were come to the Church, the Bridegroom fate down with his Company on one fide, and the Bride on the other, direály oppoſite to him ; over each of their Heads there was a Figure of Death upon the Wall, whether deſignedly done, I know not. They both approach'd the Miniſter , who ex peaed them in the midſt of the Choir : And after he had perform’d his Office, Four or Five Trum; e : s , 9 o $ 122 A New Voyage Vol. I. Trumpets, which were on the top of the Stee ple, founded a great many Levets, and the new married couple returned in the manner as they came. The Husband was in a black Suit with a Cloak over - laid with Lace, a great Ruff, and a little Crown of Gold Plate Lace above his Peruke, But the Bride's Dreſs will be a little more dimicult to deſcribe. The beft, Account I can give you of it, is to tell you, That in framing to your ſelf an Idea of Her Head-Tire, you muſt fanſie a Mixture of Gilt Wire, like a Bob-Peruke, half a Foot high upon the Forehead, and very much curled and ſwelled out on the Sides. This was order'd after ſuch a manner, that in all the thick neſs of this Buſhy-Dreſs there was no more Space or diſtance between the Wires , than was ſuffin cient to faſten to them an infinite Number of lit tle Plates of Gold, round, poliſhed, and ſhining, which hung both within and without, and was ved with the leaſt Motion. Her habit was black, with long Skirts reſembling the Hongrelines,which were, not very long ſince , uſed in France. The Body of this little Caſſock , which was cut very ſhort, had a Gold Lace over all the Seams. The Skirts were full of little cloſe Knots of black Sartin Ribbon, and the ſtreight Cuffs fell juſt on the Fift . Over this ſhe had a Neck- band of fine Antique -Lace, cut before like a Man's Band, and ending in a Point behind, which reached down to the Middle of the Back . She had be fides a great Gold Chain on her Shoulders, juſt like the Collar of ſome Order, and ſuch another Chain for her Girdle. Her Petticoat was fhort enough, and adorn'd below with Gold Fringe, and Black Bone- Lace. We had the pleaſure to ſee this Fair One dance with a Senator in a great Ruff ;i and I believe at Japan there conld not be found W 123. Vol. I. to ITALY COM C: 10 ز found Cuſtoms more different from ours, than thoſe which we obſerv'd at this Feaft. I ſhould never make an End, if I ſhould undertake to de ſcribe all the other Habits. But, as fantaſtical as all theſe Dreffes might ſeem at firſt View , one might be eaſily accuftom'd to them ; and every Habit appears handſon , and becoming, when the Perſons that wear them are of themſelves beautiful and agreeable. There are not more induſtrious People in the World than the Artificers of Nuremberg ; ſome think they were the Inventors of Fire -Arms and Gun- Powder. Others affirm , that Powder was invented at Chioggia, in the State of Venice ; and there are ſome who pretend that it came from Denmark . The Diverſity of Opinions concerning the firſt Invention of Artillery, is no leſs remark able and ſurprizing than the Controverſie about the Invention of Printing, * John Mendoza Goms- * Bifbop of zalez , whom I had occaſion to mention in one Lipari. of my former Letters, who wrote a Hiſtory of China , whither he was † ſent by Philip II, ſays, t An. 1580. that if wemay give credit to the common Tra. dition and Annals of that Country, Fire- Arms, and conſequently Gun -Powder were Invented by their firſt King Vitey, from whom to the Em peror Bonog , who poſſeft the Throne in the Time of Gonzalez , about the End of the laſt Age, they reckon'd 243 Princes who ſucceeded one another in a direct Line from Facher to Son. This Author was too judicious to depend upon their imaginary Chronology ; but, with out entring upon ſo intricate a Controverſie, he ſeems to be convinc'd, that theſe people were very early acquainted with the uſe of Artillery.

• Tavernier writes, that Fire- Arms were invented ' L. 3. 6. 174 in the Kingdom of Aſem . ' Tis thougbt, ſays he,

tbat Gun -Powder and Cannon were found out in the King 124 A New Voyage Vol. 1: 608 . Kingdom of Aſem , from whence the Invention was communicated to Pégu, and from thence to China, which is the Reaſon why the Invention is uſually a

• la bis Ici- ſcrib'd to the Chineſe. * LeonardRauwolf,a Phy nerarium Ofician of Auſburg, who travell’d in the Eaſtern rientis. Countries, and ſeems to incline to Gonzalez's Opinion, endeavours to prove that Gun- Powder was known and us'd in the Time of Pliny, ground ing his Conjecture, but, I think,withoutany pro bability , on a Paſſage in that ancient Author con

1. In his Hiflo- cerning Salt-Peter . And † Girolamo della Corte,

my of Verona. another Chimerical Conjecturer in this point, thinks he has Reaſon to believe that Scipio found great Guns and Carabins in Carthage, when he About the || made himſelf Maſter of that City . Count Ga Year of Rome Teażo Gualdo Priorato * ſays, that theſe Machines In bis Al were Invented , Anno 1012. Naucher, in 1213. Count of the † Anthony Cornazani, in 1330. Il Cornelius Kemp, Imperial and in 1354, James Gautier or Gualterus, in 1365, Hans- Towns. t in the Life of 1425, according to the ſeveral Au thors whom he cites. The moſt common Opi Bar.Coglione || In his Hiftory nion, which is follow'd by Polydor Virgil, Sabelli of Friezland . cus, Forcatel, Collenůccio, Camerarius, and ſome of In bis Cbro the above- mention'd Authors , is that one Ber mology thold Schwartz, a Franciſcan Friar , who was a Lover of Chymiſtry , was the Author of this Invention at Nuremberg, Anno 1378. Others are of the ſame Opinion , as to the Time and Place, but aſcribe the Invention to one Con ftantin Ankelitzen, a profeſs’d Chymiſt ; and An thony Cornazani believes the place was Cologn. Cornelius Kemp , upon the Authority of Sebaft. Munfter, andſome others, pretends that Cinofcus, King of Friezland, was the Inventer of theſe Machines. Some call the Author of ' em Beya trand the Black, and ſay , that he Invented Gun Powder at Chioggia in the State of Venice. But this ſeems to be only a Miftaké , occafion'd bý the 1380, and 1 > Vol. I. tö ITALY 125 the Reſemblance of the Names Berthold and Bertrand, and theSignification of the Surname Schwartz, which in the German Tongue ſignifies Black. I leave you to judge, whether ' cis pof ſible to reconcile ſo many oppoſite Opinions ; but if the Controverſie was to be decided be cwixtthe Eaſtern and Weſtern Part of the World, the Pretenſions of both might perhaps be ea fily juſtify'd ; and tho' it ſhou'd be allow'd, that the Oriental Nations got the ſtart of us in the Invention of Printing and Gun -Powder, we might ftill claim the Honour of the ſame Invention in Europe. For I ſee no Reafon, why it may not be ſuppos'd, that the ſame Thought may enter into the Mind of ſeveral Perſons, who had never the leaſt Communication with one another. I cannot leave this Subjeět , without taking notice of the vulgar Miſtake of thoſe who ex claim againſt this Invention as a diabolical and pernicious Contrivance to deſtroy theLives of Men. For, without entring upon an Enquiry, which wou'd extreamly lengthen a Digreſſion, that is already too long, I may venture to affirm (what I cou'd eaſily demonftrate) that neither Sieges nor Battels have been ſo bloody, ſince Fire - Arms were Invented, as they were in for mer Times when they fought Hand to Hand, and almoſt every Engagement ended in the Ru ine of one of the oppoſite Armies. Great Guns were firſt put into Ships by the Venetian Admiral Barbadigo, and the famous Bar tholomew Coglione , was the firſt who brought Artillery into the Field : For before his Time, the only Uſe they made of theſe Machines was to batter the Walls of Towns. Mr. de Fa bert, who lately publiſh'd the Hiſtory of the Dukes of Burgundy, aſſures us , that the firſt Effay 126 2 New Voyage Vol. 1 Eſſay that was made of ' em was againſt the Fortreſs of Preux. All Europe is full of the little Curioſities of Nuremberg. There are ſome of Wood, of Ivory, of Alabaſter, and even of Paper and Starch. Their Houſes are large and neat, and I be lieve there is not a Cieling in all the City, which is not accompanied with a very fine Plafond of Joyner's Work. I cannot expreſs the particular Kindneſs they have for Horns, for all their Houſes are full of them . They are every where hung up amongſt Pictures, and other curious things. You often ſee in the fineſt Chamber, a Stag's, or Bull's Head, with a magnificent Pair of Hornshanging from the Ceiling, without any other Deſign but for Ornament. We were but poorly accommodated on all the Road from Heidelberg ; and Straw was com monly our Bed. But we made our felves a mends at Nuremberg, where the Inns have very good Accommodations. They ſerv'd us eve ry Day with late Fruits , what I never ſaw any where elſe. We are here at the end of November, and you commonly eat pretty good Peaches. St. Sebald is the principal Church. They ſhow therein a Wooden Crucifix which palleth for a Maſter- piece ; 'tis that of the famous Albert Durer : and the Tomb of St. Sebald is alſo a great and fine Work. The Church of St. Lau rence, is the biggeſt of all. They are both Gothick, but the laſt hath Eight Doors, whichis look'd upon as a Singularity . Thegreat Church yard is worth ſeeing : There are in it above Three thouſand Tombs with Epitaphs , and Coats of Arms wrought in Brals. " No Fews are ſuffer'd to live in the City, becauſe they formerly Vol. I. to I TAL Y. 127 1 Hi gh US formerly poiſon'd theFountains. They reſide in a Village not far off , and may , for a ſmall piece of Money, come into the City, provided they depart the fame Day. The Roman Catho licks are but few in number, and they have but half a * Church, where they perform their Ser- . This is in vice after the Lutherans are gone out. Thoſe Commandery who are called Calvinists , go a League from of Malta. the City into the Marquiſate of Onſpach, and their Children are Baptized by the Lutberans, as at Francfort. There are ſeveral diſtinguiſh'd Families , who are honour'd with the Title of Patrician, and the only capable of exerciſing the Office of Magiſtrates. The Roman Catholicks are never advanc'd to that Dignity, and even cannot en joy the Privileges of Burghers or Free-Citizens. Iknow not what Etienne Pighius means in his Hercules, (p. 91.) where he ſays, that at Nurem berg they have Corn five hundred Years old in their Granaries: -Granaria publica teftis ſub fubm limia , de Spatio, muriſque perampla ; granis varii generis plena B.onufta ; in quibus etiam Frumenta quædam centum quinquaginta Annorum ellervari fe The Author of the State of the Empire re lates, that , the Burghers of Nuremberg have a Privilege to drown their Children. The Laws of the XII Tables granted the ſame Privilege to the Romans : AndI remember very well, that I have read in Juſtinian's Inſtitutes , that the Pater familias has a Soveraign Right over the Life, Death, Slavery, or Liberty of his Children , Born in lawful Wedlock : Summum jus vitæ ac necis ; terque Filium venundandi poteftatem : * The Child But ſuch Arbitrary Practices are inconſiſtent was to be Free with the Divine Laws, and are contrary toNa after his have ing been Sold ture. If the Children deferve Death, are there three times . not SO es runt. + 1 28 A New Voyage Vol. 1 . not Courts of Juſtice to take notice of the Fad ? If they do not deſerve it, by what Law, except a Diabolical one, do Fathers deſtroy their own Children We are preparing for our Departure to Mor row Morning, to continue our Journey to Auf bourg. I will alſo continue to write to you from thence, and will omit no Opportunity to low how much I am , SIR, Nuremberg, Nov. 22. 1687. Your, &c. LETTER X. INGOL. STADT. Uniterlitz. BER S IR Etween Nuremberg and Ingolftadt, the Ways are very bad and full of Foreſts , but when you come near this City, you find a Champaign Country, excellently well tillid . Ingolſtadt is fea ted on the Danube, in the Dutchy of Bavaria, of which it is the ſtrongeſt Place. It is indifferently large, and moſt part of the Houſes are painted or whited without. The Streets are broad, ftraight, and well pav'd : And the whole City feemed pleaſant enough, tho it is poor and ill Peopled. They boaſt much of the Arſenal, but they muſt be ſo much courted for a fight of it, that we would not take that trouble. I have ob ſerv'd, that theſe inacceſſible Arſenals are com monly the worſt furniſh'd ; for if they were well fill'd , they would make a publick Show of them, rather than hide them. But they always make a Myſtery of ' em, when they have nothing to Thow la Vol.i. to ITALY 129 order , howbutCroſs- Bows and rufty Firelocks. No ang is more eaſily obtain'd , than a Sight of the _rſenals in France ; and it is as true, that there none in the World either finér, or in better I obferv'd at Ingolſtadt , as in many other Cities in Germany ,that every where near the Fountains ! Encre are Casks of Wood or Braſs , mounted on liecle Sleds withfourWheels, which ſerve to carry Water when any Fire happens : and this isvery wiſely contriv'd : But they have another Cuſtom throughout all this Country, which we thought much more troubleſome than uſeful. There are certain Singers in the Night, who trot about every Hour : They give notice to beware of Fire, and afterwards exhort People to ſleep quietly, without conſidering thattheir horrid Mufick keeps all the City awake. We came from Ingolſtadt to Newburg, which is NEWBURG a very * little Town, and without Fortifications. * Gal. Gual . It handsontheright Bank oftheDanube,which Prioratofars, is already grown broad and rapid,tho' at this tains 4000 Place it is very far diſtant from its main Strength. Inhabitants. We paſt over à Bridge to go up into the City ; and at our Entry wehad aview of the Caſtle, which is ſeated on a Rock. Though it has no Ornaments on the Out-lide, it makes a pretty Appearance. Within there are large Apartments, on the fame Floor, which are very convenient. But the Elector Palatine , to whom this Dutchy belongs, was forc'd to lend all the Furniture of this Calle tothat of Heidelberg ,which was dil furniſh’d, as I have already told you . There remains only one Cabinet, which is full of Pi dures and other Curioſities, which we had not time to examine particularly. I remember I obſerv'd a round Piece of very hard Stone, which weighsfour Pound, and was found in K the a 130 A New Voyage Vol.I. a a the Bodyof a Horſe : I beliei ’ we might juſtly call this Stone a kind of Bezoar, ſince according to the Report of Ta vernier , and others, the Bezoar is found in the Paunches of Cows, Apes, and ſome other Animals, as well as in thoſe of Goats. The Church of theJeſuits is the faireſt in the City, but there is a Pleaſant thing to be ſeen in that of St. Peter. Mark d'Aviano , a Capuchin, famous for the Miracles which are attributed to him, was at Newburg, about five Years ago. As he went into St. Peter's Church, he perceiv'd in a Corner an old Noſtredame of Wood, which was all mangld, and covered over with Duft. The zealous Father could not without Grief behold our Lady in ſo unbecoming a Condition. He proftrated himſelf before her , and began to thump his Breaſt, and to break out into Lamen tations. As he was in the midſt of his Groans, he ſuddenly cry'd out, Miracle ! and proteſted, that the good Lady had mov'd her Eyes, and look'd on him . It happen'd, that there were feveral Old Women in the Church , who ran together at the Cries of the Capuchin, and with joy embrac'd the Occaſion , that they were able to ſay, they had been Witneſſes of a Miracle. There was no need of many Arguments to con vince them ; for they all cried out with the Co puchin, that our Lady had look'd upon him . Im mediately he went out with them , and fill'd all the City withthe noiſe of the pretended Mira cle. He was ſupported by the great Ones, and after certain Preambles , which 'tis needleſs to relate, they went to St. Peter's in Proceffion : They cleaned the Statue , took the Sacrament off the great Altar, which was dedicated to it , dreſs’d our Lady in a ſplendid Habit , and plac'd her on that Altar, where ſhe works Miracles by Millions. The Lady of Newburgh , . . I (! ep ASASIES TUTTE 77 STUK che st he mur 1 . Plate 2.Voll 1.p 130 . M 0

Vol. I. to ITALY 131 that it was . Millions. Both Princes and private Perſons load her with Preſents ; and People come from all Parts in Pilgrimage to her. The Country is extreamly pleaſant and fer. AUGS. tile, between Newburg and Augsburg ,, except in Imperial BURG, an when you draw near to the latter,where the City . Gale Lands are boggy and barren. Thoſe of Augſ- azzo Gualdo burg pretend that their City is the faireſt of all Pr. pretends, Germany : they ſay alſo, that it is greater than built preſently Nuremburg; but confeſs that it is not ſo well peo- after sheDe pled. It was formerly very populous, when it luge. Buthe enjoy'd a flouriſhing Trade, and before it was does not prove depopulated by War and Peſtilence. One ofthe it.SuchSorts of fantaſtical Magiſtrates inform'd me, that it appears by the Pretenſions are publick Regiſters, that in the Year 1549 there intolerable.The were 1705 Children Chriſten'd in this City, and City (formerly Zizeris ) was that the Burials amounted to 1227. Sir Will. Petty almost all burns writes, that there were 2263 Burials atDublin in in 107,1132, 1682 ; but at the ſame time, he obſerves, that and in 1183• 'cwas a ſickly Year. You may comparetheſe Tacitus calls it Splendidif Accounts, and conſider what Inferences maybe ſimi Riceti. drawn from ' em. Only, you muſt not be ſur- cæ provinciæ pris’d , that the number of Chriſtenings exceeds Colonia. It that of Burials at Augsburg, contrary to what you tain'd its are accuſtom'd to obſerve at London ; for you Reput ation . know that many Perfons die in the latter of theſe Gualdo af Cities who were not Baptiz’d in it , and even firms ,thai ſome who were neverBaptiz’d. Tho' theStreets its Circumfe are broaderand ſtreighter thanat Nuremberg, 'tis to 8602 Geo certain that generally the Houſes are not ſo fine ; metrical Pa they are commonly plaiſter'd and whited with- ces ; that at out, or adorn'd with Paintings : but I ſaw very Sains no more preſent it 6072 few of Free-Stone. The Floors of the Cham - than 25000 bers are commonly pav'd with a certain yellow- Inhabitants; ilh Marble,which isbroughtfromTirol; andthe and that its Cielings are either of Joyner’s-work , in Com lifts of about partiments, or of a certain Cement, which po- 200000 Flem liſes very well , and is very durable. But there rins. K 2 has mell maino rence amounts Revenue contes is 132 A New Voyage Vol. I. is one great Irregularity in all their manner of Building. The greateſt part of their Chambers are form'd into Figures, which have no Name, and are alſo ſpoild by the ill placing of the Stair - caſes, which take away great Corners of them . The Biſhop of Augsburg is the Capital City of Suabia. You Augsburg is know Auguftus ſent à Colony thither, after he S.Aracan, her had much enlarg’d and embelliſh'd it : Itwas to the Arch biſhop of Mentz. He call’d , Auguſta Vindelicorum , to diſtinguiſh it from is ele& ed by the Auguſta Treverorum , Augufta Taurinorum , and o Chapter ,whith ther Cities, which alſo bore the Name of Auguſta. confifts of For by Canons. I cbſerv'd ſomewhere among the Paintings of the Houſes, an Anagram of Auguſta Vindeli corum , which is Orta Deâ vulgum vincis. The People of this Country were call'd * Vindelici, becauſe they Inhabited about the Rivers Vindo and Licus, which at preſent are callid Werda and Leck, and between which the City of Augſ burg is ſeated . It has been pillagd ſo often , particularly in the time of Attila, that there are † There are hardly any Remains of its † Antiquities to be fume Roman found. Some tinie ago.they dug up a Pillar five Inſcriptions in the Church of or fix Foot high, on the Top of which was the St. Ulric. figure of a Pine -Apple. There was alſo found ſome Medals of Auguſtus, on the Reverſe of which the like Pillar is to be ſeen . As it was the uſual Cuſtom to mark out by ſome Bounds, the increaſe of the Empire, on the Frontiers of the corquer'd Countries, and to joyn to thoſe limits ſome Repreſentations of ſuch Things as were moſt common in the new Provinces ; it 5

• Pergis ad Auguſiam quam Vindo, Licuſq; fiuentat

Refpicit & latè fluvios Vindong; Licúmq; Miſcences undas, & nomina litroris ; unde Antiquam Gentem , Populúmque, Uibémque, vocarunt Vindelicam Ricchardus is Vol. I. to ITALY.. 133 ز is very probable, that this was the Uſe of the Pillar I juſt now mention'd, and of the Pine Apple on the Top of it ; for all this Part of Ger many is full of Pines and Firr-Trees. There is alſo a great deal of appearance, that for this Rea ſon Augsburg bears a Pine-Applein its Arms. Tho there is hardly any thing good or re gular in the Fortifications of this Town, it has ſometimes ſuſtain'd very rude Aſſaults with much vigour. It is now forty three Years, ſince the "Swedes and French beſieged it, and reduc'd it to Famine, without being able to take it. 'Tis an Imperial City ; the Senators are half Luthe rans, and half Roman Catholicks : Such Offices as are only poſſeft by one Perſon at a time, are, by turns, enjoy'd by the Proteſtants and Roman Catholicks. But the Senate is not the ſole Ma ſter of the State ; five or fix Sovereigns ſhare it among them. A good Part of it belongs to the Biſhop : Almoſt all the Territory is in his De meſne ; and he hath his Palace in the City, though he reſides at Dillengen, where alſo the Univerſity is. You know that all the Biſhops of the Empire are Temporal Princes in their Dio. ceffes, except thoſe of the Hereditary Countries of the Houſe of Auſtria. The Roman Catholicks here make publick Pro ceflions, and carry the Hoft publickly ; and the Lutherans commonly pull off their Hats , when they cannot avoid meeting it . Both Parties do what they can poſlibly, to avoid giving Offence to one another. The Poor of both Religions are put into the ſame Hofpi tals, and are there affitted by their own Mini Iters withour any oppofition . The Fewslive above a League from the City ; they are obliged to pay , when they reſort thi K3 ther, 134 A New Voyage Vol. I. 律 9 cholen King of ON ther, a Florin per Hour, which is a piece ofMo neyworth about three Shillings English . Twas bere The * Town-Houſe is a large four-ſquare Buil that Ferdi. ding, of very fair hewn Stone. The Portal is nand IV , was of Marble, and almoſt all the Rooms are Wainf the Romans coted and Cield with Aſh of Poland, which is , Heils. very fine, The great Hall is extreamly Magni ficent. It is One hundred and ten Foot long, Fifty eight broad , and Fifty two Foot high ; the Pavement is of a jaſper Marble. The Walls are cover'd with Paintings , between which there are many Devices and Emblems, which relate to the Government ; but the Cieling excels all the reſt in Beauty. It conſiſts of Compartments, the Squares and Pannels of which are inriched with gilded Sculptures, and filld with Pictures and other Ornaments. And all this is mighty well order'd and perform’d. The Arſenal is very large. The two Halls below are full of Cannon, of which the grea teft part are of Braſs. There is a Culverin of Leather Twenty fix Foot long, which is a Six Pounder. The upper Stories are fill'd with good Arms. During the Wars of theNeighbouring Princes in this laſt Age, the People of Augsburg were careful to ſhut the Gates of their City early at Nights, which Cuſtom was troubleſome to Stran gers, as well as to themſelves. Wherefore they invented a kind of ſecret Gate, by which there was a Paſſage to come in, without fear of ſur prize or other danger. This Gate remains ſtill with all its Springs and Machines, and is a very particular contrivance. Thave drawn a Deſign of it , which I could ſhew you, but the Deſcription would at preſent be too difficult and tedious. a The Vol. I. to ITALY. 135 The Trade of Augsburg decay'd, as that ofHol land increas'd . Almoſt all Merchandizes which come from the Mediterranean, were fornierly land ed at Venice, and from thence brought to Augsa burg, from which Place they were diſpers’d thro" all Germany. But Holland hath taken away all , and diſtributes all : And Augsburg ſuffers as well as Venice, Milan , Antwerp, and an infinite num ber of other cities, which are at preſent as Poor as they were formerly Rich. Three Years after Guftavus the Great had made himſelf Maſter of Augsburg, it was retaken by the Duke of Bavaria , who took away all the Churches from the Lutherans, in which caſe they re main'd from the Year Thirty five, till Forty eight, at which time all things were reſtor'd by the Peace of Munfter. During this Interval, the Lutherans had no liberty to affemble butin a College,from the Window of which the Miniſter preached to the People in the Court yard. This College is ſtill in their Poffeffion ; and I have ſeen a long Inſcription, which is graved under the Window and begins thus : Præclufis omnibus Evangelicorum Templis, eelun tamen ipfis patuit, & c. Al the Chur ches of the Profeſſors of"ibe Goſpel being ſhut, Heaven was yet open to them , &c . You may ſee in the Biſhop's Palace,the Cham ber where the famous Confeſſion of Augsburg was * preſented to the Emperor Charles V. From * In the roar thence we went to the Cathedral, where there 1530, by Me is a Gate ofBraſs, over which many places of jun &thon and the Sacred Hiſtory are repreſented in baſſo re- Tanahon Luther ; Men lievo, and they made us obſerve in the Hiſtory drew it up. of the Creation , that it was the Virgin Mary who created Eve, and form’d her out of one of Adam's Ribs. They are no leſs ingenious at Augsburg , than at Nuremberg , and even they excel particularly in K 4 136 A New Voyage Vol. I. in Clock and Goldſmith's- work, and in Works in Ivory. We ſaw ſeveral Clocks which were valued at Fifteen or Twenty Thouſand Crowns. They put them in Caſes that are very richly wrought : and beſides what relates to the Mo tion of the Stars, and the Diviſion of the Times and Seaſons, they adorn them with many other things, which would be both pleaſant and pro fitable, if they were a little more laſting. Their Way of Turning in Ivory is very cu rious, and deſerves to be taken notice of with Admiration . But one of the rareft Works of that kind I ever ſaw , I ſhall give you an account of : They are Glaſſes made hollow , and well Shaped, with a Ring made of the fame Piece in Turning, which plays between the Bottom and the Body of the Glaſs, and cannot be taken off. Theſe Glajlis There are an Hundred with their Rings in a are in my Grain of Pepper of an ordinary ſize. I often Hands. examined this little Miracle of Art with a good Microſcope, and obferved the Stripes and Traces of the Tool with which they are turned , ſo chat I found no ſecret in it , but that it was the pure work of the Eyes and the Hand. They have here another Bauble , Fleas faſtned by the Neck with Chains of Steel. This Chain is ſo fine, that though it be near a Span long, the Flea will lift it up when it leaps. The Ani mal, Chain and all is Sold for Ten - pence. The variety of Habits, and difference of their Colours, is greater here, I think, than at Nu remberg. This is regulated by the civil Magi itrate , and you may know the Quality and Re ligion of the greateſt part of the Women, by the difference of their Cloaths. I will only repre ſent to you the manner after which the Widowof Volit P136 ,Plate 3 . Divers Habits of the Women at Auſburg . 880000 志 ( 四 נעשיו

Vol. I. to ITALY 0 137 of a Roman Catholick Merchant wears Mourning for her Husband. She hath a Sort of Kerchief of the fineſt Linnen , well whited and ſtarched , with its ordinary Wings, for this Drefs : a black Petricoat, and a black Cloak, made like that of a Man, which comes to her Knees. A great white Veil behind , which hangs at the tail of the Kerchief, down to her Heels, enlarging it ſelf by degrees ; a piece of the ſame Linnen with the ſaid Kerchief , Four Foot long, and at leaſt Two broad , which is very much ſtarched and ſtretched on a Square of Wire-thread,faſtned by the middle of one of its Ends, juſt below the Lips, and covers all the fore-part of the Body. They have turned a little Branch of the River Leck, and made it paſs through the Town ; the Water is ſo clear and good , that they need ſeek for no other ; there are four or five Towers up on this Arm of the River, on the Tops of which they have made Ponds, and the Mills which are below cauſe Pumps to play , which lift up the Water, and fill thoſe Ponds or Ciſterns, from whence it is diſtributed throughout all the Ci ty: I muſt not forget to mention the Fountains of Augsburg, which are one of its principal Or naments . There are many of them which are almoſt as magnificent as the fine Fountain at Nuremberg. I am, Augsburg , Dec 2. 1687 SIR, Your, & c . LET 138 New Voyage Vol.I. LETTER XI. I SIR, Obſerved at my going out of Augsburg, in many Gardens , that they cover all their Vines and Fig - Trees carefully, with Straw or Mats, to preſerve them from the Froſt ; the Cold being ſharper in this country than in England, where we are not obliged to make uſe of theſe Precautions, thoughwe lie nearer the North. It is certainly true, that the diverſe de grees of Heat and Cold, are not always pro portion'd to the Diverſity of Climates : There are terrible Winters inCanada in the midlt of the temperate Zone ; whereas almoſt every where elſe, under the ſame Climate, they enjoy a ſweet and pleaſant Air, MUNICH , The Country is pretty level between Augs theCapital Ci-burg and Munich, but the Soil is not very good ; sy of Bavaria. there is every where a Mixture of Wood and Fields , and Firr-Trees. Munich is not above half ſo big as Augsburg. It is a pretty fine City, but ill fortified, and has no Trade ; and with out doubt little notice would be taken of this Place, were it not for the Reſidence of the Ele etor, whoſe Palace is , in general, very Magni ficent. Almoſt all the Houſes of the City are painted on the Outſide, but inſtead of Painting in Freſco, or in Oyl, they make uſe of a kind of bad Water-colour, which is liable to all the Injuries of the Weather : It wears off quickly, and riſes hollow in many places, which maims all the Figures, and makes a very ugly Sight. We Vol. I. to ITALY 139 . a و We had heard ſome Perſons commend fo much the Jeſuits Library, that it was the firſt thing we went to ſee whenwe came to Munich ; but it did not anſwer our Expectations. For beſides that, it is neither very numerous, nor in very good condition i; they ordered a Brother Cut-Cabbage, who knew better what belong'd to the Kitchin than to Books, to fhew it us. I confefs I could not believe ſuch groſs Ignorance could lurk un der the Habit of one who call’d himſelf a Jeſuit. It was abſolutely impoſſible for us to make him underſtand, what thoſe Authors were whom we called The Fatbers. He preſently named all the Fathers of his Convent , to try if he could find out whom we look'd for. And at laſt, with a ſcowling Look, he pray'd us to talk of ſome thing elſe. This is all I can tell you of the Li brary, and the Library -keeper, or at leaſt of his Deputy : For it is not probable that all the reſt of this Society are of the ſame Stamp. However it be, they wear four fair and high Corners in their Caps, whereas in France they dare not wear but three ; and their Houſe may be ſaid to be a ſtately Palace. Their Church is alſo extreamly fine ; it conſiſts of one Nave or Bo dy , very high , broad , and ſtrongly roofed : the Veſtry is full of Riches, and they want no Relicks. They ſhewed us a Vertebra , or Joint of the Back-bone, as big as that of an Elephant, or ſome huge Animal ; and this great Bone, as we were inform'd, is in great veneration with them , as being one of the Vertebræ of the huge St. Chriſtopher. Leaving the Church of the Jeſuits, we went to that of the Auguſtines, where are Pictures of great Value. We went thence to the Cajetans, who have a great and fair Church . I obſerv'd in a Map of Munich, 140 A New Voyage Vol. I.

3 in 1157. nens. This City was Munich , that this City bears a Monk for its built in the Arms, and that it is called Monacum , or Mona DukeHenry chium , becauſe there was a Monaſtery on the : Ochoixcloſed Place where it is built. We alſo went to ſee in it will Wals, the Church of Nofire Dame, the Tomb of the Emperor Lewis IV. This Sepulchre is adorn'd * Monachus paſſis ulnis : with many fine Marble and Braſs Figures. Hav Dextrâ juran . ing advanced Ten or Twelve Steps from the En tis fpeciem trance of the great Door of this Church , you habens; Læ- behold one of the Stones of the Pavement, on vâ librum te which is a double Croſs ; and itirhath been ob ferv'd , that when you ſtand upright in this Place, the Pillars of the Church are ſo placed, that you cannot ſee one ofthe Windows, tho they are very numerous. All that come to Wor ſhip in thoſe Churches have a lighted Wax. Candle in their Hands even in the Day- time ; and that Candle is bigger or leſſer, according to the Quality of the Saint, or the bigneſs of the Devotion. The Out ſide of the Elector's Palace is not ſuitable to the Magnificence within ;; and tho? the greateſt part of its Apartments are well contriv’d , it may be faid , that they are irre gular if we take 'em all together : The Reaſon is, that this great Maſs of Building was not erected at the ſame time ; every one built ac cording to the Fancy of his Time, or his own There is an ample and exact Deſcription of this Palace written in Italian, by the Marquefs Ran. Pallavicino. This Royal Houſe contains, Jaith be , Eleven Courts, Twenty great Halls, Nineteex Galeries, Two Thouſand Six Hundred great Glaſs Windows, Six Chappels, Sixteen great Kitchens, and Twelve large Cellars, Farty vaft Apartments, which are all ever , not one of ' em being wer than another, and in which you may diſtinguiſh Three Hundred great Chambers, richly Paivied, Wainlcored, Paved, Furnished ,& c. In the middle of the Front of the Palace that looks to the Street, there is a Statue of the Virgin, with theſe words written under ji, Patrona Bajgariæ , fub ruum præſidiun confugimus, fub quo fecuri lærique degimus. private Vol. 1: to ITALY 141 private Fancy ; and that hath been the Cauſe of the Diſproportionableneſs of its Parts : But if it be taken altogether, it may certainly paſs for a very beautiful Structure. You muſt not expect, that I ſhould give you an ample Deſcription of a Place that is ſo vaſt, and ſo full of Rarities. And therefore I ſhall content my ſelf with aſ ſuring you , in general, that all ſorts of Beau ties and Riches are found there in abundance. The great Hall of the Emperor's Appartment, which was burnt about 13 or 14 Years ago, is One Hundred and eighteen Footin Length, and Fifty two in Breadth. We may juſtly ſay , that it is in every refpe & magnificent. All the Paint ings are highly eſteemed : They are Hiſtories, the Sacred on one side , and the Profane on the other ; with Latin Verſes to every of thoſe Hiſtories. I will ſet down the Diſtich for su Sanna, becauſe I think it one of the Beſt : 11 Cajta Suſanna placet, Lucretia cede Suſanne ; Tu poſt, Illa mori maluit ante ſcelus. The little Chappel which is in the Appart- * The inſtvi ment of the Electoreſs, is full of precious Things: ption over the There is nothing to be ſeenbut Gold, Pearls, Door runthas and Gems of all Faſhions. They keep a great culcum virgi D. O. M. ad many Relicks there, among which I took notice num Princi of a Piece of Gold Mohair, which, they ſay, pis, ſaluratæ was part of one of the Virgin's Gowns. " How genitricis ge nitoris ſui, could any one imagine ſuch a Thing ? Ijam geniti, will take notice too , in favour of the Pil- gignendi. grims, of a Pieceof one of the ſaid Virgin Mary's Sacrum dima Smocks. The right Hand of St. John Baptiſt ; tum . Some Clods of the Blocd of Jeſus Chriſt ; ( Luke xxji. 44 ; ) and a Stone that ſweats upon every Good - Friday. The 142 a New Voyage Vol. I. The Hall of Perſpectives is one of the fineſt + The greatest things of this Palace : But the other calld of Part of theſe Anticks is large and famous ; it is near a Hundred Antick Pieces Foot long, and 40 broad. I counted One Hun were brought from Rome. dred Fourſcore and Twelve Bufts, and above Four Hundred other Pieces : All theſe are choice and rare, for the Beauty of their Workmanſhip , as well as their Antiquity. The greateft Part of the Furniture of the Palace is very rich ; and they affirm , that there is as much Tapiftry in Sam perhaps the Wardrobe, as is, or has ben worth Three a littlemagni- Millions of Livres, beſides what is in ordinary xify'd. " Theſe people, uſe. But the Treaſury infinitely exceeds all probably reckon the reſt. There is a great Quantity of Plate of Gold , and many precious Veſſels. A prodigious Things were Number of great Pearls, Diamonds, Rubies, they were New ,and other Oriental Stones of exquiſite Beauty ; and a vaſt Quantity of excellent Paintings, curious Works, Medals, and other Rarities. I muſt not forget the Cherry -ſtone, upon which you may diſtinály perceive One Hundred and Forty Heads Carved ; nor the Gondola of Palm Wood turned into Stone, on which they have inſcribed theſe two Verſes : what the worth when 2 زا Palma fui, cæpi lapideſcere, cymbula nunc ſum ; Si non Neptunus navita Bacchus erit. Marble is to be found every where in this Palace, yet we muſt not deceive our ſelves ; for they have the Secret to make a certain Compo ſition, which becomes ſo hard, and poliſhes fo Theſe Gallem well, that thoſe who are nor very skilful, take it ries areof the for true Marble. Same Height They have made divers * Galleries of Com with the fir munication, which croſs the Streets and Houſes, Coaches drive by which they can go privately from the Palace under im . to all the Churches and Convents of the City. I Vol. I. to ITAL Y. 143 11 V WIU W I will ſay nothing of the Arſenal, becauſe they have carried the Cannon, and moſt of the beſt Arms into Hungary. We ſaw there the Tent of the Grand Vizier, which was taken in the laſt Battel, in which the Elector did ſo res markably ſignalize his Valour. This Tent was vaſtly large, but not very fine. It is made of printed Callicoe with Stripes , as they ſeem to me of Sattin, cover'd with Silk Îmbroi dery. They made us take notice of a Figure of aa Trout, that weigh'd 73 Pounds, thatwas caught in a neighbouring Lake. I cannot tell you , why this Country is not proper forVines; there are none in it, and their ordinary Drink is Beer. They know no other Religion here but that of Rome : And they look upon Men as a Loup garous, that are not of that Profeſſion. Their principal Devotion is for the Virgin : She is painted on all their Houſes ; every Place is full of her Chappels and Oratories, and none but Divine Titles are beſtow'd on her. After I had finiſh'd my Letter, laſt Night very late, I found that I was miſinform’d , as to the Time of the Poſt's going away. So that I have Leiſure to entertain you with a particular Ac count of ſome things that were either omitted , or very haſtily touch'd in my Letter. I wiſh I cou'd give you a diſtinct view of all the Beau ties of that magnificent Hall in the Emperor's Appartment. But ſince ſuch an Undertaking wou'd require a Volume, I ſhall only add, that amongthe divers Ornaments ofthe Chimney, we took notice of an admirable Statue of Por phyry, which repreſents Virtue, holding a Lance in her right Hand, and a Palm Branch gilt in her Left. Since I gave you the Diftich for Suſanna, and have time to tranſcribe the reſt, I'm 144 A New Voyage Vol. I. I'm refolv'd to ſend you ' em all. They are in the ſame Hall. For Esther. Exanimata cadit caris pro civibus Hefter, Quæ caſura magis, ni cecidisſet, erat. For Judas Maccabaus. In caput unius totus licet incubet Orbis ; Nil Judæ virtus fortior Orbe timet. For the young David. Davidis immanem dejecit dextra Gigantem : Quid non Vir faciet, fi facit ifta Puer. For Judith. Hoc Ducis Affyrii caput eft : Juditha recidit. Sobria mens vincit ; Ebria victa jacet. For Samſon . Samſon fum , totas qui ftravi dente Phalanges, Me ftravit tonfis una Puella comis. For Fabel. Illa ego que Siſereterebravi temporaclavo. Quod non est auſus Vir, fuit aufa Jabeh For Mofes. Scriptas di&tavi Moſes à Numine Leges ; Leges quie vite ſunt proba norma tudo I need not repeat the Diffich for Sufanna. On 1. Vol . I. , 145 to ITALY On the other side of the Hall. For Coriolanus's Mother, or for Coriolanus himſelf. Da Patriæ vitam , quam d te, Veturia, pofco. Quam mibi, quamque tibi, Patria cara dedit. For Horatius Cocles. Quid traditis, Reges, in prælia mille cohortes ? Unus pro toto ſufficit orbe Cocles. For Lucretia. Accipe, quid dubitas ? intacta Lucretia, ferrum . Morte premi nulla fama ſiniſtra poreft. For M. Val. Corvinus. Expugnata Tibi, Corvine, eſt Celtica virtus. Sei duo viciſtis : divide, victor, opes. For Tomyris. Regis Achæmenii, Tomyris, cervice refe &tå , Immersâque utri, dixit, birudo, bibe. For Hercules. Alcides ego fum : quem non potuere Gigantes, Non Styx, non Cælum vincere, vicit Amor. For Pentbefilea. Penthefilea furens mediis in millibus arder. Concidit illa tamen Penthefilea furens. L For 146 A New Voyage Vol.i. For Lycurgus. 4 1 Si tua texiſſet Lex æqua, Lycurge, pudorem, Lex tua non alia Lege tegenda foret. WW 10 The Plafond or Cieling of the Hall conſiſts of large gilt Compartments, enrich'd with Pictures, by the hand of Candi. The great Gallery is 270 Foot long , and is broad. ' Tis adorn'd with Baſſo Relievo's, and fine Paintings, among which are the Pictures and Names of 36 Princes, Anceſtors of the pre fentElector ; and ſeveral Maps and Repreſen tations of the Provinces, Cities, and principal Rivers of his Dominions. There is another Gallery 63 Foot long, and 18 broad, magnificently hung, and full of Paint ings too, which for the moſt part repreſent the Hiſtories of the Princes and Princeſſes of this Houſe. At the End of this Gallery is a little Chamber that looks inco a Flower-Garden, and is call’d the Cabinet of Roſes and Lillies. This is a charming Place ; and all the Paintings with which ' tis adorn'd, relate to the moſt innocent and tender Pleaſures of Life. The large Room, which is calld the Hall of Audience, is very much enrich'd with various Ornaments. This is the place where Ambal fadors are receiv'd ; and ' tis alſo a kind of Tri bunal, where the Princes hear the Complaints of their Subjects. The Ceremonies that are obſerv'd by Foreign Princes , in giving Au diences to the Miniſters of their Allies , are sepreſented in Eighe large Piaures, in round and Oval Compartments. There are alſo ſe veral Hiſtories of Sovereigns, who were wont to adminiſter Juflice io Perton , and look'd upon it ! 1 as Vol. I. to ITALY. 147 as an indiſpenſable Duty, of thoſe who are in truſted with the Government of a State, to re dreſs the Grievances of their Subjects. Theſe Hiſtories are accompanied with Hieroglyphick Figures, Emblems, and Devices, moſt of which I noted in my Table-Book, but in ſo confus'd a manner, that I muſt content my ſelf with tran ſcribing three of the moſt remarkable. The firſt is a Sun, which equally warms and enlightens a magnificent Palace, and a mean Cottage, with this Inſcription , Omnibus Idem . The ſecond a Looking-Glaſs,with theſe words, Videt, inde vide And the third a Level, with this Motto, Metitur d aquat. In ſeveral Places of the fame Room, I oblery'd the following Sentences' : tur. Polleat auditu , qui polet Imperio. * Cura aures duas patere querelis omnium . * Plus vident oculi quam oculus,

• *

(a) Jus unicuiq; fuum tribue. (a) The words of Cambyſes. Rex ſedens in (olio diſipat omne malum . Non oportet quemquam à fermone Principis triſtem diſcedere. ( b) Si non vis audire, nec regnes. ( 6) The words of poor Wo man to Philip. (c) Omnibus jura poſcentibus faciles aditus pandite. (©)The words ofConfantin . (d) Non ideo Imperator ſum , ut Arculâ includar. ( d ) The words of the Emperor Rudolphus , (e) Auſculta querelas Pauperum , & - fatage, ut verita- (e) Thewords Fem intelligas. of St.Lewis

• *

L2 I 3 148 A New Voyage Vol. I. I wiſh they had added in Letters of Gold, SALUS POPULI SAPREMA LEX. Among the various Embelliſhments of the Ap partments of this ſtately Palace, there are ſeve ral other Inſcriptions and Emblems on all ſorts of Subjects. II gave you an Account laſt Night of the Ele ctoreſs's liccle Chappel ; and I ſhall take thisocca ſion to add thatthe large one where the ordinary Service is perform’d, is alſo of a finiſh'd Beauty. There are fe- 'Tis adorn'd with ſeveral Balo Relievo's , repre . veral others. ſenting Hiſtories that are proper for a Place ap pointed for the Service of God. This Chappel is dedicated to the Virgin , with this Inſcription. VIRGINI, ET MUNDI MONARCHÆ, Salutis Auroræ , Miraculo conceptæ , miraculo conceptura , Hanc ædem poſuit, Clientum infimus, MAX. CO. PAL. RHEN. BOFORUM DUX, Anno ab ejuſdem Virginis partu. M. DC. I. The Treaſury is ſo rich and magnificent, that I cannot forbear giving you a particu lar Account of it , ſince I have Time enough. I am confident you will be pleas'd to ſee a De ſcription of one ofthe fineſt Places of the World ; and will not blame me, for endeavouring to diſplay the hidden Rarities of this Magazine of Wonders. In the firſt Gallery there are Four ' great Cupboards. In the ſecond Eight ; and at the End of this Gallery there is a Cabinet full of new Curioſities. The firſt Cupboard in the firſt Gallery is quite fill'd with Veffels of maſ five Gold , fo curiouſly wrought that what Ovid Vol. I. to ITAL Y .. 149 a Ovid ſays of the Chariot of the Sun, may be Materiam fu juftly apply'd to them . As for the three pre- perabat opus. tended Unicorn's Horns that are kept in this Cupboard, 'twill be fufficient to tell you, that one of them is fix Foot and a half long, another eight Foot and three Inches, and the other ten Foot and five Inches. Thefe Sorts of Horns were almoſt of an ineſtimable Price, when the World was ignorant of their being Fiſhes Teeth, and really believ'd 'em to be the Horns of that chimerical Animal, call's an Unicorn. In the ſecond Cupboard. Several natural and artificial Rarities , with a conſiderable Number of large Veſſels of Rock Cryftal, for the moſt part wrought with Ballo Relievo's, enrich'd with Gold ; ſome are cover'd with Lids of large precious Stones. In the third Cupboard. A large Bafon of maſſive Gold, cover'd all o ver with Rubies, and Oriental Turquoifes. A large Cup of Agate, after the Faſhion of a Gondolo , enrich'd with Pearls and Ballo Relievo's of Gold . A Purſe containing sco Pearls of a middle Size. Two hundred other Pearls of the Figure of Pears, all of an equal Bigneſs, of a very fine Water, and larger than the former. A Jewel enrich'd with five Emeralds, each of the Bigneſs of a Guinea, with 200 pretty large Diamonds, four large Rubies, and eleven very fine Pearls of the Figure of a Pear. A ſmall Coffer of Ebony , with a golden Cock, enrich'd with 70 fine Diamonds, as many L Rus 3 150 A New Voyage Vol. I. Rubies, and an equal Number of Emeralds. It contains eighty Pearls, of the moſt perfe & Sort, and largeſt Size. A Gold Jewel enrich'd with 20 Diamonds of fixteen Carats each , and of the Figure of a Pear. Three Rings ſet with three large Diamonds and two other Rings, one of which is ſet with very fine Ruby, and the other with a large E merald . Six Ear- Rings curiouſly wrought in Gold, with a large Pearl in each of them ; Diamonds, Rubies, and Emeralds. They are too heavy to be hung at the Ear. A Croſs compos'd of a large Pearl, three great Diamonds, two Rubies, and an Emerald. A Jewel with aa broad Diamond cut fiat. A Ruby weighing above an Ounce, and a fine round Pearl of the Bigneſs of a ſmall Nut. а A Lion, an Elephant, and an Eagle, adorn'd all over,with large Diamonds,Pearls,and Rubies. A St. George, enrich'd with eighty Diamonds. A Croſs compos'd of ten very large Diamonds, with three Pearls of the Figure of a Pear. Another larger Croſs of Diamonds, adorn'd with a great and perfect Emerald, and forty large and very white Pearls. A Garland of Diamonds, in the Middle of which there is a very large one, and a fine Pearl of the Figure of a Pear . An Emerald of the Bigneſs of a Nut. An Eagle enrich'd with 200 Diamonds ; two great Rubies, and three fine Pearls of the lar geft Size. A Jewel repreſenting certain Inſtruments of War, with above 400 Diamonds, the leaſt of which weighs from eight to nine Carats, and ſix Pearls of the Figure of a Pear. А Vol. I. to ITALY 151 A Writing Desk adorn'd with 200 Diamonds. A ſmall Coffer adorn'd with ſeventy Dia monds, thirty . Rubies, ten Emeralds, and two hundred Pearls. A large Vefſel of Gold , whoſe Covering is enrich'd with Rubies and fmall Pearls. Alarge Flaggon of Unicorn's Horn,on which the Myſteries of the Paffion , are repreſented in Bello Relieve's of Gold. On the Cover there is a large Ruby fet round with Pearls, Emeralds, and more than 270 Diamonds. Another larger Flaggon , adorn'd with Ballo Relieve's, after the ſamemanner, and enrich'd on the Cover with ſixty Rubies, and ſeveral Eme ralds of the Bigneſs of Nuts. Another Flaggon cover'd all over with Sa phires. A Looking -Glaſs in a Frame adorn’d with large Rubies and Emeralds. A Girdle enrich'd with 18 large Diamonds, and nine Rubies. In the Fourth Cupboard . A ſmall Coffer of Silver Gilt, adorn'd with a hundred Diamonds, containing a Jewel, en rich'd with a like Number of Diamonds, each weighing eight Carats. A Frame of aa Looking-Glaſs , the Corniſh of which is cover'd all over with Rubies, Eme ralds, and Diamonds. Another ſmall Coffer enrich'd with a hun dred Rubies, ſeveral Emeralds, and ſeventy Dia monds cut in a Triangle, round which there are thirty ſmall ones, weighing fix Carats each . A Chain for a Collar conſiſting of five hun . dred large Diamonds. L 4 A. 152 A New Voyage Vol. I. 1 A Veſſel of Jaſper , enrich'd with Ballo Rea lievo's of Gold , and a great Number of fine Diamonds. Another Diſh of Lapis Lazuli, adorn'd after the fame manner. Two Cups of Lapis Lazuli cover'd all over with Rubies and Diamonds. Alarge Veffel of Jaſper, enrich'd with Gold and Pearls. A large Veffel of one entire Emerald , with abundance of Pearls and Diamonds. A Girdle enrich'd with nineteen Roſes, every Leaf of which is adornd with twenty four Dia monds. A Casket of fine Indian Wood, containing a rare Collection of Gold Medals, which weigh two hundred Marks. Theſe are the moſt conſiderable Rarities con tain'd in the four firſt Cupboards, beſides which there are many others of leſs moment. The Gallery adjoining to the Treaſury is 2 dorn'd all around with gilt Sculptures : and beautify'd with 32 large Pi& ures in Oil , 40 in Miniature, 36 Portraictures, by Raphael, Michael Angelo, Titian, Corregio, and other famous Ma fters : and three fine Pieces in Mofaic of Gold and Silver. Per The firſt Cupboard Contains ſeveral Caskets, enrich'd with Gold and precious Stones, in which there are ſeveraf curious Indian Works. At the Bata The Ribbon of the Order of the Garter * saken sle of Prague from the Count Palatine (King of Bobemia.) Two Dials in Boxes of Cryſtal and Jaſper, adorn'd with many Diamonds. A Cru Vol. 1. to ITALY 153 A Crucifix ofWax on a Golden Pedeſtal, co ver'd all over with Pearls. The Title on the Croſs is Engrav'd on one Piece of Emerald . Two Pair of Tables of Gold , curiouſly wrought. Twoother Tables adorn'd with Lapis Lazuli, and Miniatures on a Ground of Gold. Two Church Books, one written by the Ele . &or Maximilian ; the other cover'd with an Em broidery of Pearls and precious Stones, wrought by Mary the Iſt, Queen of England. 1 In the fecond Cupboard. Several Veſſels of Rhinoceros's Horn curi oufly wrought. A great Number of curious Works in Ivory , ſomeof ' em made by theElectors Maximilian ,and Ferdinand Maria, the Father and Grand- father of Maximilian Maria, the preſent Elector. In the third Cupboard. Several fine Works in Mofaic. An Image of the Virgin embroider'd with Pearls. Two other Madones of Wax , by the Hand of Michael Angelo. Two Globes , one Celeſtial , and the other Terreſtrial, each of the Bignefs of a fmall Nut, where every thing is well deſcrib’d. The Plan of the City of Troy, on a piece of Lapis Lazuli. Two Caskets full of Bezoar Stones , odorife rous Wood, and other Perfumes. Another Casket enrich'd with Diamonds, con taining two ſtriking Watches of the Bigneſs of a ſmall Nut, hung at Ear- sings. Two other Watches 154 A New Voyage Vol.I. Watches enchas'd in Rings . A little Book writ ten in very ſmall Characters. The Cherry - ſtone which I mention'd before. Two large Purſes full of Bavarian Pearls , big , and white . In the fourth Cupboard . wit 1 Fourteen Veffe's of Lapis Lazuli, Jasper , and Cornelian, enrich'd with Gold and precious Stones, and curiouſly wrought . Several Urns, Flaggons , and other Veſfels, adornd afrer the ſame manner . A large Casket of Touch - ſtone , with Bullo Relievo's, adorn'd with precious Stones. Two Baskets of Gold , with a great many Turquoiſes. A large Cup with a Cover of one Piece of Çoral. A great Golden Cup, adorn'd with the Por traictures of all the Princes of the Houſe of Au tria , and the Arms of all the Electors. In the fifth Cupboard. Several Curioſities in Ivory , among which there are five very fine Crucifixes. Two fine Miniatures , one by Albert Durer, and the other by Julio Romano. An Indian Box containing a Chaplet , the Beads of which are of Amber and large Pearls. The Death's Head , that is faſten'd to it , is a dorn'd with 30 large Diamonds of the fineſt and moſt beautiful Sort. Twelve Peach - ſtones, on which are engravid the Twelve firſt Cafars. 18 In Vol. I. 155 : to ITALY In the ſixth Cupboard. A great Number of little Silver Statues and Paintings in Miniature. Some little Curioſities in Gold , and other Matters, made by Sigiſmund I. King of Foland. A Casket full of Baskets of Philigram . 1 In the ſeventh Cupboard. A conſiderable Number of Pieces of an excel lent Workmanſhip in Ivory. Several Wax - figures by Albert Durer. A great Number of ſmall Pictures, among which are three Death's Heads, by Albert Du rer ; and a fine Piece of the Nativity of St. John Baptift, curiouſly engrav'd on a fine Stone. . The eighth Cupboard. Is quite full of a vaſt Number of Veſſels of Amber, Agat, Onyx , &c. enrich'd with Gold and precious Stones. At the End of the Gallery the Cabinet which I have mention'd . contains another curious Collection of Medals, Miniatures, rare Paint ings , and ſeveral Sorts of ancient Arms, all en • rich'd with precious Stones. In the Middle of the Cabinet , there is a large and fair Celeſtial Globe , the Motions of which mark the Hours, the Courſe of all che Planets, &c.

• Norice in this laſt Edition ( 1912. ) that I have not deſcrib'd all the Riches of this Treafuri

that we have juſt now bebeld , according to the particular Examination I have made of it my ſelf ; which would have requird abundance of Time and Care : But leaving an occaſion so sprak of this Cabinet, I think I could not do bester I give 156 A New Voyage Vol. I. better, when I firſt publiſh'd theſe Letters, than to tranſcribe the Catalogue that the Marqueſs Palavicini, whom I have already mention'd, had publiB'd some Tears before. This Gentleman, who had a confiderable Employ under the Eletter, bas caus'd all that we have juſt nowread, to be printed in Munich it ſelf, and dedicated it to his ſaid Mifter. Every one will judge, whether he has had Deſign to impoſe on Him , or the Publick by it, in inventing Souch Lies. ( In. deed ſuch vait Riches, to judge of Thingsonly by their Appearance, from fabulous and more ſuitable to a Palace of the Fairies, than to a German Prince's Houſe, how High and Puiſſant foever he may be. ) . a From thence you deſcend to an Oval Court, ſurrounded with a fine covered Portico , in the midſt of which there is a magnificent Fountain. The Baſon is of Marble , adorn'd with ſixteen Braſs Figures, with a great Statue in the middle, repreſenting the General of an Army. From this Court you enter into the Hall of Anticks which I have already mentior’d. Be ſides the Bufts and Statues I ſpoke of, there are Twelve large Pictures, repreſenting twelve Virtues. At one of the Ends of the Hallthere is a Sort of Eſtrade, rail'd in with Marble Baliſters, in the midit of which there is a fine Table of in laid Work of Florence. Near this Hall there is a little Garden which contains ſeveral rare Plants, and is adorn'd with Fountains, Statues , Grots , and Water - Spouts. From Place to Place there are Benches , and Tables of Marble. The great Garden is full of the ſame kind of Ornaments, and ſeveral others. On one side there is a Gallery, or very long Portico, adorn'd with Paintings. The ſeveral Councils and Courts of Juſtice meer in the Old Palace. The Manege, or Riding-Houfe deſerves to be taken notice of. ' Tis 366 Foot long, 76 broad, and lighted by 84 large Windows. A fine Cor ridor runs quite round on the inſide. This Place is not only appointed for the uſual Exerciſes on Horſe. Vol. I. to ITALY. 157 Horſeback , but alſo for Turnaments, and ſeve- † There is a Theater in the ral + other kinds of Shows. Palace for era There are * many Pleaſure- houſes. That of dinary Plays. Stanenberg is ſeated on a little Hill, by the Lake "Schleiſheim , ofWirnzee, which is three Miles long, and one Dakaw , Sta broad. The Elector caus'd a Veffel to be built nenberg, Schawben, at this place, after the Model of the Bucentaure Strech, & s. of Venice. The Houſe of Schleifheim is both lar ger and more regular, but its Situation is not ſo pleaſant. At the Entry of the Palace at Munich there is a great Stone, chain’d to the Wall, which weighs 364 pounds. ' Tis a Sort of black Marble ; and it appears by an Inſcription upon the Wall, that one Duke Chriſtopher carry'd this Stone and threw it ſome Paces from him : But Monſieur de Monconys is mightily miſtaken in writing that the Elector threw this Stone twelve Foot high. Adjoining to the ſame Place there is a Nail fix'd in the Wall, twelve Foot high , which marks the Place from whence the ſame Duke pull’d down a Stone with his Feet, climbing up the Wall. You may obſerve, that in the Deſcription of the Treafury, I mention'd BavarianPearls.They are filh'd in the River Ill : one half of thoſe that arefound belongs to the Emperor, and the other to the Elector of Bavaria . I am , SIR, Munich , Dec ... 4. 1687. Your, &c. LET 158 A New Vol. I. Voyage LETTER XII.

• This River

carries only femal Boars. A S I R; Fter we had for ſome time follow'd the Banks of the * Ifer ,which is the River of Munich, we entred into a Foreſt ; at our coming out of which, we diſtinctly perceiv'd the Begin ning of the Alps : Their Snowy Tops are min gled with the Clouds, and reſemble very much the ſwelling and foaming Waves of a tempe ſtuous and raging Sea. If the Courage of thoſe has been admir'd , who firft expos'd themſelves to the Fury of that Element, here is matter e nough of Aſtoniſhment , that any one ſhould venture himſelf among the Cliffs and Precipices of ſuch diſmal Mountains. The ſame Day we departed from Munich, we came to a Village call'd Lagrem , which is at the Foot of the Mountains, andnear to a little Lake of very pure Water. In this Place they gave us al Sort of Fiſh that we knew not. The firſt thing with which our Hoft entertain d us, was a Cha d fing - Dilh full of Incenſe,with which he perfum'd our Chambers; and indeed we found more neat neſs in this little folitary Habitation, than in ma ny great Cities in our Journey. After we had coalted the Mountains about two Hours, we entred among ' em, and for a long time aſcend ed in the midſt of Rocks, Firr - Trees, and Snow . This is one of the wildeſt Places in the World , Yet we found ſome Fisher-men's Cottages, on the Banks of two or three Lakes, which are be tween the high Mountains : But we cou'd not diſcover one Spot of tillid Ground ; and pro bably Vol. I. to ITALY. 159 bably Cheeſe of Goat-Milk, with ſome Fiſh , is theprincipal Diet of theſepoor People. Their Many of them Cabins are made of the Trunks of Firr- Trees, have fire well joined together ; and their Boats are fram'd Guns,and catch of the ſame Trees of one Piece hollow'd. Some Veniſon. They entertain'd us with wild Goats- Fleſh , and very large Salmon- Trouts in the Village of Mittenwalt, which is three Leaguesfarther. This MITTEN . Village is in the middle of a pleaſant Plain, and WALT. theRockswhich environ it are extreamly high. Médomov, Medulum , Our Landlord ſhew'd us ſome Balls, or brown Inut rium . Mafles, about the bigneſs of a Hen's Egg, or leſs, which are a kind of ſoft and imperfe & Bem Zoar, and are commonly found in thoſe Parts, in the Stomach of the wild Goats. The good Man aſſur'd us of their great * Virtues, and * magis known that he often fold them to Travellers. He va - that all sorts lued them at Ten Crowns apiece ; and I be- of Naturaliſts lieve we ſhou'd have done him a Courtefie, extol the Be ifwe had taken Five or Six which he had ac a Jureand ap at that price. prov'd Antia dole against Poiſon But M. de la Nauche Guyon , Counſellor to Charles IX, relates, a Story very well afteſted , which shows, how little we ought to rely upon this kemedy, and ſeveral other Medicines of the lame Nature, Book I. ch. 10. See alſo Monconys , Part I. pag. 252. of Lyons Edition , 1677 .

zoar Stone as 1 A little farther we met a very pleaſant Troop of Beggars. Aſſoon as they perceiv'd us, one of them , who carried a little Tree loaden with red Fruits, planted it in the Middle of the Way, and fare down by the Side of it ; a little Goblin in the Shape of a Crocodile, faftened himſelf to the Tree ; and a Girl with long and diſhevell’d Hair, approach'd to it ; An old Man cloath'd in Black , with a Peruke and Beard of Moſs, ſtood at a little diſtance, with a young Boy clad in White , who held a Sword . When they thought we were near enough , the little Devil open'd the 160 ANew Voyage Vol. I. MY Fruxinum the Comedy with a Dogrel Song ; and we could, without difficulty gueſs, that they intended to repreſent the Hiſtory of the Fall of Adam . One of us, as he paſſed by the Old Man, ask'd him, who was at a diſtance from the others, whether he was of their Company; the poor Creature anſwer'd very ſeriouſly, That he was God the Father , and that if we would ſtay alittle, we ſhould ſee him act his Part, with his little Daga eh ger-carrier, who was St. Michael tbe Arch- Angel Such is the effect of the Repreſentations which they make of the Deity ! FREISIN- Á Quarter of an Hour after this fine Rencoun GEN. ter, we paſs'd by the Fort of Chernitz , which is built between two inacceſſible Rocks , and ſepa Campodunum . rates the County of Tirol from the Biſhoprick of Frieſingben. This Biſhoprick is in Bavaria ; and Tirol you know is one of the Emperor's Heredi tary Provinces. We came very late to the Vil lage of Seefeld, after we had paſs'd thro' many Turnings and Windings among the high Moun tains. There is aa Convent ofAuguſtines in this Village ; and we ſaw in their Church two or three pretended wonderful Things, with which they make no ſmall Noiſe. They tell a Story of a certain Gentleman, na med Miller, who lived in the Caſtle of Schlosberg, about a Quarter of a League from thence ; and was very much dreaded in this Village, that he was ſo vain as to deſire to communicate with the great Hoft, which is only for theUſe of the Clergy. They endeavour'd to diſlwade him from ſuch a dangerous Frolick ; but in vain. When they had then putthe Hoft into hisMouch , it caſt out, as they ſay , a Flood of Blood , and at the ſame time the Legs of the Communicant funk into the Pavement up to the Knees : He would have ſupported himſelf on the Altar, but the 3 4 Vol. I. to ITALY. 161 a the Stone gave way, and ſoftned under his Hand, and the poor miſerable Man had been ſwallowed alive, if he had not been retriev'd by a ſpeedy Repentance. The Auguſtines ſhew this pretended Hoſt, chewed and bloody in a Glaſs Shrine. They Shew alſo the Print of a Hand on the Altar, and a Hole in the Pavement of the Church, near the ſame Altar, as of two Legs ſunk into ſofc Ground. They ſay that this Hoft works Miracles ; and theConvent improves the Story to the beſt advantage. Two large Leagues on this fide Seefeld we be- Bertius bock's mightily of gan to deſcend, and three Quarters of an Hour thistratt of afterwards we arriv'd in a deep Valley, which Land, which was at moſt but a Mile in breadth. The River indeed appears Inn glides pleaſantly along, and waters ſeveral very fruitful. There are ſome pretty Villages. We turn'd to the left in this Silver Mines at Valley, and follow'd always the Foot of the Schwatſz. Mountain. And a little League farther they near that place, Cuf made us take notice of a ſteep Rock, which is pinianus re caild, The Emperor's Rock. lates, that in The extraordinary Adventure, which occaſi- his Timetheſe ond this Denomination, has been deſcrib'a by Silver Mines the Emperor Himſelf ( MAXIMILIAN then were worth to but Arch-Duke ) in a German Poem, entituled, Threehundred Zewerdank : And a great many other grave Au- Thousand thors have reported this ſtrange Relation for an Crowns of Gold undoubted Truth. But I have met with none of Tearly,but 129 theſe Writers that deſerves better to be credited little toomiseks afraid 'tis a than Eſtienne Piggbius, Governor to a Prince of the ſame Houſe , who relates the Story after the ſame manner as it was told to that Young Prince, upon the ſame Place, at the Court of Inſpruck. Since I have Pighius's Relation by me, I will give you an Abſtrač of it : ( it is Written in Latin. ) “ Ac a prodigious Height upon the Rocks ( or rather the Mountain which is a Rock , s chat ſhews on that fide a very ſteep Face ) M 11 the Prince 65 there 162 A New Voyage Vol. I. j o there is a Wooden - Crucifix in a ſort of a Nich “ that is made in the Front of the Rock ; ( be is not ſpeaking of the Two Statues on each side , “ which I Saw there. ) This Crucifix, ſays he, " is about Forty Foot High ; but when one " looks upon it from the Valley, it does not “ ſeem to be above Two Foot, ( he ought to “ bave ſaid ſomething more ) and this is the Mo nument of that wonderful Adventure I am going to relate.

• The Arch -Duke Maximilian, Son to the Emperor Frederick III, being in Chaſe of a

66 Wild -Goat, was through the Eagerneſs of “ the Purſuit, got among theſe high Mountains by himſelf ; coming to the very Place where “ the Crucifix now ſtands, and being ſurpriz'd to ſee the dreadful Precipices before hini, " he would willingly have turn'd back ; but he could neither find the Way he came, nor any other Path out of this Labyrinth unknown to every Body into which he was got ; nor any other place from whence he might be “ diſcover'd by any One. He continu'd there two Days and two Nights, in what Condition one may eaſily imagine, ( for I abridge the “ Relation ) without any poſſibility ofSuccour ing him : There was nothing but Lamenta " tions, Proceffions, and Prayers, by the Croud " that beheld Him from below , the Court, the People, and the Clergy, but no hopes of ever “ ſaving him. At laſt he heard a Noiſe, and at the ſame time perceiv'd a young Man remo ving the largeft Stones on the right Hand and on the left, and preparing a Way for Him: “ The young Man, who was in a Peaſant's “ Habit , drew near him, and ftretching out « his right Hand to him , ſaid , Take Courage " Maximilian, He that can deliver thee is Living, 66 66 66 and Vol. I. to ITALY 163 " and preſent to do it ;; fear nothing butfollow me ; " I will conduet thee into a ſafe Place. The Prince “ obey'd without any manner of Heſitation ; “ and ſoon after his Guide having put him into an eaſy way, diſappear'd. They ran to meet “ him, &c. the reſt is eaſie to be gueſt at. The “ next Day the Emperor ( who was at Inſpruck ) “ began to ſearch after the Deliverer ofhis Son, “ by all the Ways that could poſſibly be thought “ of, in order to give him the Honours and the Recompenſe he ſo well deſerv'd : But he “ could learn no News of him ; neither has “ there been any heard of him ſince : ( ſays another Author. ) ad Scopulum curſu pervenimus altum , Hic, ubi ſečtatus ter Maximus Æmylianus Alta in rupe Capras, finiſſet turpiter ævum, Ni Deus ad majora Virum fervaflet; opemque Auxilio AGRICOLA pene ipſa in Morte tuliffet,& c. One might compoſe whole Volumes of ſuch Hiſtories, which according to the Opinion of your learned Spencer, amongſt others, who was no Pedant, ought not to be ridicul'd : But I fhall content my ſelf with adding one, which I had from a very ſcarce Book ( the Colloquia Colloquia Menſalia of the greatand famous Luther. ) “ When Mentalia,& sc. Chap 35 . “ I livd at Zwica, ſays he, in Franconia , a Child the laſt Arti " that could hardly ſpeak or walk, was got into cle. Nose, that a Wood near the Houſe, (there are Foreſts e- this Book, very where in that Country .) An unexpected wlal Original “ Snow covering and altering the ſurface of the bas bzen de is German, 6 Ground, the Child could not find the Way froy'd as much as pelle, by the powerful Enemies of Luther and his Opinion , who have burnt Forty thouland Copies of it : Thoſe that remain are wery ſcarse : It was printed in English as London, in the Tear 1652 , afrer great Examination, by an exprif, Order of Parliament ; with all the prodigious Circumstances that are related in the Proface. M 2 is back 164 A New Voyage Vol.1. 66 " back again to the Houſe. The Snow conti nuing to fall in great Abundance, he remain'd “ there cover'd over with it, two Days and three “ Nights. During that Time an unknown " Man brought him Meat and Drink : But at “ the beginning of the third Day he led the “ Child near his Father's Houſe, and there left " him . I WAS PRESENT when he came 6 in, and I proteft he told all that had happen'd " to him, as clearly and in as good Terms as I « could have done my ſelf ; notwithſtanding , s from that Time for Three whole Years, he was not capable of putting any Words toge ther, that one could eaſily underſtand. I am " therefore perſwaded, adds Luther , that the “ Man that preſerv'd him was a good Angel. INSPRUCK. Inſpruck is but two ſhort Hours farther in the Enipons middle of the Valley, upon the River Inn : You Pons Æni. muſt paſs this River on a Bridge before you en ter the City ; and it is therefore called Inſpruck, that Word having the ſame Signification in High Dutch , as Anipons, or Anipontum , which is its namein Latin . " The Greek Geographers call this River Aivov, from whence it follows, that thoſe who write it with an OE, are to blame. Be ſides, there's a Diſpute about the place where the ancient Anipons ftood ; for certainly Inſpruck is not now in that Place. There are fine Houſes at Inſpruck, but the manner after which they cover them, ſeems at firſt very diſagrecable to thoſe who are not ac cuſtom'd to them ; for not only the Roofs are fat, but inſtead of riſing to a Point, they are re verſed, and the Gutter runs into the Middle of the Roof. After the Duke of Lorrain had the Misfortune to loſe his Dominions, the Emperor gave him the Government of Tirol ; and the Relidence of this Vol. 1 to ITALY. 165 1 a this Prince was at Inſpruck, in the Palace built by Maximilian I, for the Uſe of one of the Arch Dukes, ( that is to ſay the Sons of the Emperor ) as an Appenage : for all the Children of theſe Princes are qualify'd with the Titie of Arch Dukes and Arch -Dutcheſſes, unleſs the Eldeſt has a greater Name, by being choſen King of the Romans. This Palace hath many Conveni encies, and is of a ſufficient Extent, but it was built at ſeveral times, and is neither beautiful nor regular. Manege, or Riding - Houſe, which is alſo made uſe of for Publick Shows, is almoſt like that at Munich, but larger. They ſhow'd us one Thing very ſingular ; but tho' I made a very diligent Enquiry, I cou'd not meet with any perſon that cou'd fully ſatis fie my Curioſity. The Houſe which they call the Chancery, looks into the publick Place in the midſt of the City. The Portal of this Houſe, which reſembles a little Porch on the outſide, has a Roof that leans againſt the Wall of the Houſe ; and is as they aſſur'd us, cover'd with Plates of Gold.. They gave us the following Account of it . A Rebellion , and almoſt gene ral Sedition being rais'd againſt an Arch-Duke cail'd Frederick ,whom they particularize no other wife ; that Prince was forc'd to hide himſelf, but not being willing to go far off, that he might be ready to appear whenhis Affairs ſhould bein a better Poſture ; he engag'd himſelf in the Ser vice of a Miller in a Village of the neighbour ing Mountain. In effe & , the Tumult was qui. ered, and Frederick récall'd : But there were ſtill ſome diſaffected Perſons who abus'd him, and gave him the Nick- name of Empty Purſe ; and therefore to ſhew that he was not fo poor as thoſe People imagin’d, he affected to be prodigal of Gold, in employing that precious Metalto ſo mean an uſe. M 3 There ( 166 à New Voyage Vol. I. i There is nothing impoflible in this Story ; and it was related to us for a certain Truth, by Peo. ple who ſeem'd to want neither Senſe nor Dif cretion ; nevertheleſs, to ſpeak freely , I am ve ry inclinable to ſuſpect the Truth of it. I be lieve no Author ever wrote of it ; and ' tis plain, ſo ſingular a thing would not have been omitted. Perhaps ſomething not unlike this did really happen , which might give occaſion to this Tradition. Monconys I could not touch the Roof, becauſe it is a lit Jays, shat 'tis tle too high, but I have attentively look'd upon of Brals gilt. Geo. Brown it , and ſaw diſtinctly, that the Plates of Braſs writes , that are placed on the Timber, and ſerve for Tiles ; the Platesare and I perceiv'd alſo , that each of theſe Plates is of Silver ; and cover'd with another thin one of another Metal, that ' tis the Work of the which ſeem'd to me to be about a Line in thick Emerer Max- neſs. If theſe laft Plates be not of Gold, I am jimilian I. ſure they are Gilded ; but if they be but a fim Charles Patin Profeffer of ple Gilding, why ſhou'd they lay one Meral up Phyfick at on another and why could they not as well Padua, takes have gilded the brazen Tiles ? is for granted, i hai the Roof is cover'd with Tiles of Gold. He believes, that there are at leaſt three Thouanit, and adds, that a Jew offer't ebree Thouland Florins a piece for He was inform’d at Inſpruck , that a private Perſon, who was so rich that he knew not what to do with his Money, laid it out on this Structure; and he neither contradicts his Author, nor makes the leaſt Reflektion on this story. I confeſs, a private Inhabitant of Inſpruck, might well ibink bimjelf too rich, when he bad 3 Millions of Florins. The Roof may be about fifteen Foot ſquare ; and if it be of Gold, which I do not believe, I find by calculation , that the Values of it a mounts to about Two hundred thouſand Crowns, Gold is become ſo ſcarce a Meral, and the Want of it ſo very great every where, that ' tis not likely they would let this Trealure ly uſeleſs at Inſpruck, or that the Thieves shemſelves would fpare it, Thoſe > enn Vol. I. to ITALY 167 > Thoſe that conducted us, told us ' twas the ſame Frederick who caus'd the Twenty eight fine Braſs Statues bigger than the Life to be made, which are in the Church of the Cordeli ers : But I am perſwaded theſe people are miſ inform'd ; for by the mannerin which theſe Sta tues are plac'd round the magnificent Tomb of the Emperor Maximilian I, of whom we have been talking ſo much, I have reaſon to believe we may look upon ' em as part of this honorary Tomb, which was erected by Charles the Fifth , and Ferdinand his Brother, to the glorious Me mory of their moſt Iluſtrious Grand -father, one of the moſt excellent Princes that ever any Hi ſtory made mention of. You have ſeen that he is call'd Maximus e£. mylianus, in the Verſes I quoted you ;; but per haps you do not know the Reaſon of it : it is ſomething very fingular. Your famous Camden has given an Account of it in few Words, and I ſhall content my ſelf with only Tranſcribing his very Expreſſions. " MAXIMILIAN is a new " Name, first deviſed by the Emperor, Frederick, " the Third, his Father ; Frederick doubting what “ Name to give to his Son and Heir, compos'd “ this Name of two worthy Roman's Names, “ whom he moſt admir'd , Q. Fabius MAXIMUS " and Scipio AMYLIANUS; chat his Son would “ imitate their Virtues ” . Cambden cites for his Authority, Ferom Gebvilerius, in his Book de Fa milia Auſtriaca. I will here add two Reflexions, that agree very well with, and ſupport theſe Notions. The Firſt is, that the Names of Max , imus and Æmylianus are not only the Names of great Men, bur Names whoſe Signification im pliesGreat and Happy: And the Second is , that the Name of mylius was given by another King, to wit Numa, to the Head of the nume rous M 4 168 A New Voyage Vol. I. 1 ventor. rous and illuſtrious Æmylian Family , on the Account of the lovely Qualities ofhis Mind, azo of Aiuurícs, ſays Plutarch, in the Life of Numa, I have obſerv'd that ' tis pretty uſual for the Ger man Authors to write Maxæmylianus. Let us far ther obſerve, that Frederick's' Wiſhes have been * Some Aur accompliſh'd, in that his Son, * the firft Perſon thorsmention in the World , that ever bore that Name one Maximili- for whom he had ſo agreeably invented it, an that ſuffershas fully anſweredthe Expectation of the In in the third Century ; but We went to ſee Amras, ( Arx Ambroſiana, as it they mean is callid by James Schrenckius, Secretary to the Maximian . late Arch-Duke Ferdinand, in his Hommes Illuſtres.) which was a Houſe of Pleaſure belonging to the Arch-Duke. It is diſtant a large half Hour from Inſpruck , at the Foot of the Mountain ; it hath noBeauty, on any ſide, for a Royal Houſe, and its Situation is themain Thing that makes it Pleaſant. They have taken away all the Furni ture of ordinary uſe, but we found Galleries yet full of Rarities. Firſt they carry'd us to a large Hall, where we found Armsthat are more cu rious than uſeful. They made us take notice, among otherThings, of a very large and heavy Lance, which one Arch -Duke Ferdinand uſed in * The fama is Turnaments. They ſaid, that Prince * could related of Le ſtop a Coach and Six Horſes at full Gallop, by Vinci, a taking hold of a Spoak of the Wheel ; and thac. Paintar of he broke with his Hands two Crown- Pieces Florence. joined together ; and I know not how many You may fee in Camerari- other prodigious Stories more incredible than as's Hiftorical the Hiſtory of Frederick. Meditations,a very curious Chapter of the unuſual Strength of ſeveral Persons. T. 1.1.5 . c. 9. Fhe preſent Elector of Saxony , now King of Poland, is hardly inferior to the franges of thele Mon. onardo de I Vol. I. to ITALY. 169

We went from the Hall into a Gallery , where we ſaw ſeveral Princes upon their favourite Hor ſes, with all their Armour, and all the Orna ments they uſed in Turnaments. They keep al ſo the skin of aa Serpent fifteen Foot long, which was taken near Ulm , on the Bank of the Danube. At the end of the Gallery you go into a Chamber fill'd wich Spoils and Arms taken from the Turks, A Balſa, and an Aga of the Janiſasies, are repre ſented on their Horſes, with the ſame Equipage they had when they were taken. Their Habits i are very rich! ; and the Harneſs of their Horſes is yet much richer ; they are loaded with Orna ments of Gold and Silver, Precious- Stones, Da mask- Works, and other Arabian Embelliſhments. From this they brought us into another Galle ry, in which is a double Rowof large Cup- * Sorne Perſons boards, which arejoined by the Backs and Sides, confiderable to who too and fill the middle of the Gallery, even to the be lighted, top , ſo that there is but a narrow Space left to were ſurpriz'd walk round. The three firſt Cupboards are all at this pafo, of Works of Alabaſter, Glaſs, Coral, and mo-Sage lookupon : forAmthey ther of Pearl.. In the Fourth are Medals and bergrife as a Coins of Gold and Silver. The Fifth is garniſh'd Subſtance very with Veſſels of Porcelane, and Seald Earth. In sufit to be the Sixthare ſeveral little Cabinets very rich , of befides, they , curious inlaid Work ; the Boxes are full of Me- imagine, that dals, and little Pieces of Work in Agat and * Am -'tis always found in very Small Pieces. In anſwer to this Objection, I fall only obſerve, firſt, That what I ſay is certain Matter of Fae , and conſequently ought not to be diſputed : And in i ke ſecond place, that theſe Gentlemen are miftaken in their Norion of Am bergrife. For Garcius de Horro, a Portugueze Phyfician, allures us, that he ſaw a Piece of it , which weigh'd fifteen Pounds. M. de la Nauche, a curious and learned Perſon, ſpeaks of much larger Pieces, in a Diſcourſe which he wrote on this Subject, and quotes bis Authors both Ancient and Modern. And M. Sou. chu de Rennefore, in she Deſcription of Madagaſcar, which he publib'd in 1688, ſays, Thai there was a piece of Ambergriſe found in that Ifand, which weigh'd 18 Ounces. Beſides, I ſee no reaſon , why this Subftance ſhou'd be reck on'd unfit to be wrought, out of Curioſity, for indeed there is no Beauty in it, neither is it capable of being well polifbid. bergrije :

170 A New Voyage Vol. x. bergriſe. There are alſo ſeven great Volumes co verd with black Velvet, withPlates and Clafps of Silver ; and inſtead of Leaves they contain fiat Boxes, in which there is a great Number of Medals, ſo that theſe ſeven Volumes contain a compleat Hiſtory. In the ſeventh Cupboard are ancient and curious ſmall ſorts of Arms. I took notice of a Croſs-bow which has four and thir ty Bows, and diſcharges thirty four Arrows at once. The eighth is full of Animals, Plants, and other Productions of Nature. That which is efteem'd the greateſt Rarity is the Horn of an Ox , which is almoſt fix Inches in Diameter. There are alſo works in Wood, Ivory, and Fea thers, in the three following Cupboards. The twelfth is filled with Manuſcripts, and curious Books. It would grieve one to paſs this over ſlightly, not only becauſe thoſe who ſhow it know not its Worth , but becauſe one has not time enough without ſtaying there a while, to enter into a particular Examination of ' em . In the thirteenth are only Works of Steel, and par ticularly myſterious Padlocks, and other Locks of a curious Invention . In the fourteenth we faw Stones which repreſent Trees, Fruits, Shells, and Animals, all which are the pure Product of Nature. The fifteenth and fixteenth are full of all ſorts of Clock -work , and Inſtruments of Mu fick . That which follows is full of divers forts of Stones, but unwrought, and a great Quantity of unprepar'd Metals and Minerals. In the eigh teenth are many ſmall Veſſels of different Mate rials, and a very great Number of very fine Shells. The nineteenth is the moft precious of all , it is full of Veſſels of Gold , Cryſtal, Agat, Chalcedony, Onyx, Cornelian, Lapis Lazuli, and other Precious Stones, the whole inrich'd with Gold, Diamonds, and Pearls, and adorn'd with Vol. I. to ITALY 11 with Ballo Relievo's, and other Ornaments of moſt curious Workmanſhip . The twentieth, which is the laſt , is filled with antick Pieces of Work, Sepulchral Lamps, Urns, Idols, & c. They alſo keep here a piece of a Rope, about the Length of one's Hand, which they pretend is a piece of the Rope with which Judas hang’d himſelf. There are great Number of things faſtned to the Cieling and Walls. They made us take no tice of the Picture of a Man, who (as they in form'd us) receiv'd a Wound with a Lance, which pierc'd the whole Subftance of his Brain, and yet recover'd. The Ark of Noah, by Ballan, is moſt efteem'd among the Pictures, and 'tis re ally a very good Piece. They ſay the laſt Great Duke of Tuſcany would have given a hundred thouſand Crowns for it. But the People that ſhow theſe Cabinets, have accuſtom'd them ſelves to ſay ſuch things ; and 'tis one of their uſual Ways of boaſting of the Rarities they ſhew . Beſides the Medals which I mention'd before, and whoſe Number is extream great, there is above a large Mule’s Load , that lie hud dled together in a Cheit; from whence we may ſafely conclude, that there is not one of 'em va luable for its Scarcity. When we parted from hence they brought us to the Library, which we found in very- bad Order, and our Guide could give us no Information of it . From the Library we paſſed into a Gallery, where there is a great number of Statues, Buſts, and other Pieces of Antiquity ; and we ſaw afterwards ſeveral Chambers hung round with very good Pictures. This Account is ſomewhat long and particu Jar, but I hope it will not ſeem tedious to you . I muſt not forget to tell you of a Servant at our At the Gol. Inn, who deſerves to be ranked with cheſe Ra- den-Hart. sities. ز 572 + A New Voyage Vol. I vities. This Fellow ſtretches his Arm on the Ground,and a Man of good Stature ſtands upon his Hand ; he lifts him up with thisHand only, and carries him from one end of the Room to the other. I am , Inſpruck , Dec. 7. 1687. S IR, Your, & c. LETTER XIII. A SIR, Small League from Inſpruck, we enter'd again into the Mountains, and for ſeven Hours together did nothing but aſcend ;i this was the moſt troubleſome Day's Journey we have yetmetwith. A Place feem'd to us to be among the Clouds, which a little while after we ſaw below us. At length we arriv'd very late at a little Village, but were not yet come to the Top of the Mountain. It is called Grufs, that is, the Salutation ; and it was ſo named be cauſe Charles V , and Ferdinand his Brother met in that place. As Charles return'd from his Coro nation at Rome, Ferdinand ſet out from Inſpruck , purpoſely to meet him , and they both met there . The Story is deſcrib'd and repreſented on a Piece of Marble ( or Braſs, with ſome Baljo Re lievo's) careleſsly enough fix'd upon a Column, near the High -way. ' Twas ſo cold when I went by it , that I did not think fit to ſtop there ,; therefore you ſee I give you but a very imperfect Deſcription of this Monument : which indeed, to ſpeaks freely , ſignifies but lit tle ; for what is it to us, what they -relate in that Vol. I. to I TAL Y. 173 that Inſcription ? However here it is, without any pointing, juſt as our Landlord at Stertzingen gave it me : Imp. Cæf. Carolo V.P.F. Aug: ex Hifpaniis Italiaquefufceptis Imperialibus Coronis advenienti eFerdinando Hung. Bohemiæque Regi è Panno niis occurrenti Optimis Principibus ad perpetuam publicæ lætitia Memoriam quod Fratresante Ann . 8 digreſſi ſummis inter mortales Honoribus Regnis Triumphis au &ti boc in loco Salvi Soſpiteſque conve merunt Anno ſalutis 1530 Franzius d Monte niveo Stenaci Præfect. Mandato Regio F. C. We had for Supper divers Sorts of Wild - Fowl and Veniſon : Almoſt all the Hares here, as well as the Foxes and Bears , are white ; the Par tridges are likewiſe ſo for the moſt part. There are a great many Heath -Hens, Pheaſants, and another large Fowl, which they call Schenbahn, or Cock of the Snow. All theſe Sorts of Wild Fowl have their Feet velvetted about the Claws, with a Kind of Furr , which cannot be callà either Hair or Feathers, but is fo thick as the Snow cannot pierce it. The Mountain is call’d Brennerberg , which fig nifies an enfiam'd Hill ; and the Reaſon is, that beſides the Thunders which are frequent in Summer, ſometimes it ſends forth piercing and burning Winds, which force themſelves into the Valleys or Paſſages of the neighbouring Moun tains, as into Pipes or Canals ; and theſe various Torrents of the Air ſhock one another ſo impe tuouſly, that they produce roaring and furious Hurricanes, which tear up both Rocks and Trees by the Roots ; Cui nive tineta coma est glacie riget afpera Barba, ſays ܪ 174 A New Voyage Vol. I. 1 ſays a Poet of that Country : they fay, that Travellers are ſometimes conftrained to wait many Days till theſe Storms are over. As for us, we left our diſmal Lodging the next Day, and about two Hours after came to the higheſt acceſſible part of the Mountain. There we faw a large Spring which falls upon a Rock , and ſtraightway ſeparates it felf into two Currents, which in a little time after become two pretty large Rivers. The one turns to the South , and diſgorges it ſelf into the Inn, near Inſpruck. The other runs northward, and after it has paſſed by Brixen and Bolſane, falls into theAdige, a lit tle above Trent. We dined the ſame Day at Stertzingen, a little Town, where they gave us bad Oyſters of Venice, and ſome Fleſh of a cer tain Beaſt calld Steinbokt, which is ſomewhat like a Wild- Goat and a Doe, and is moſt deli cate Food. At this Town we left the direct Way to Trent, becauſe it is dangerous, by rea ſon of the Precipices , and took that of Bri which is not ſo rough , and more fre quented. This Day we met more than a hundred Wag gons coming from the Fair of Bolſane, and they were almoſt all drawn by Oxen. I obſerved, that the cloven Feet of theſe Beaſts were fhod with two Pieces of Iron . The Peaſants of theſe Mountains have little Carts with two Wheels, which they draw themſelves, and which they make uſe of to fetch Salt from Hall, which is a little City in the Valley of Inſpruck . There are brackiſh Springs there , the Water whereof being boiled, turns to Salt. The Habits of the Mountaineers are very odd : Some of them have green, others yellow and blue Hats ; and in ſome places it is difficult to diſcesn the Men from the Women, But as we . 1 1 Vol. I. to ITALY 175 pov T

. we change Countries, we may in every thing obſerve the Variety that reigns in the World We find not only new Languages, and new Cu ftoms, but alſo new Planes , new Fruits , new Animals, and a new Face of the Earth . Almoſt quite throughout Tirol, the Sheep are black ; in ſome Places they are of a red tawny, and in others altogether white . There are ſome Pro- * Moncony's vinces in which they have * Horns ; and others, when relateshe, that was where a horned Sheep would be look'd upon at London , as a Monſter. And many other ſuchDifferences Anno 1663, may be obſerv'd in Beaſts of the fame Kind : 'was obferu'd Nor are the Humours of Men without their by the Royal Varieties. Not to leave the Example of Sheep ; Sheep which Society , that I know ſome Provinces, as that of Poitou , where feed in fat the Milk of theſe Creatures is preferred before Grounds, was in that of the Cows. In moſt other †Places, they fome partsof will not trouble themſelves to milk them , ſo have no Horns, England, little do they value their Milk. I once liv'd a or at least via conſiderable while in a Country , where, when ry Smal ones ; a Sow Pigs, if there be any white ones they feed is dry that thoſe who drown them , becauſe they believe, that all the end meager white Pigs are mangy. I have been alſo in Grounds, bave another Country where black Hogs are leſs large Horns, eſteem'd than thoſe of other Colours. In Nor and even ſome times four of mandy the Milk of a black Cow is look'd on as 'em ; and thus a ſpecifick Remedy ; and the Phyſicians pre- when they are ſcribe it for ſuch , perhaps becauſe the black carry'd from Cows are leſs common than the red . And in one Coun:ryte 6701 her, i he fome Places of your Country it is quite con- Size of their trary ; for the red Cows Milk is moſt eſteemid, Horns changes becauſe the cows are almoſt all black. Some according to can endure to look on nothing but what they the soil. Alex. the Nature of are accuftom'd to ſee ; and others value noching Taffoni rea Elellion of divers Thoughts, that horn'd Animals are Gregali, that is, Herd to. gether, Males and Females, in common ; and this is the Realon, adits he , why to nsare afcrib'd 10 those whoſe Wives imitate the Freedom of those Animals, 7 Montagne lays , the Tartars profer Mares-milk to all other Mik, but a 3 lates in his 176 A New Voyage Vol. I. € but what is rare and unknown. Cuſtom and Prejudice are the Tyrants that govern the World , and fantaſtical Humour reigns every where with them. BRIXEN Brixen is ſtill in the Tirol : That little City is Sublavio. a Biſhoprick, and the Biſhop refides in it. I Gregory VII. cannot tell you the Realon why the beſt Lodg. the famous Hildebrand , ings in this country are always in the upper that turbulent moſt Story. 'Tis true , that there you are lefs and haughty troubled with Noiſe, but the trouble to get up Pope, was de to them is a great Inconveniency. pos'd bere, Anno 1080. Since I have not much to fay of Brixen, I He was the Son will take this Occaſion to give you an Account of a Carpenter. of a Picture which I obſerv'd in the Great Church. ' Tis an old Piece of Painting faften '! to the Wall in a dark Place ;; but the Oddneſs of the Deſign made me take particular notice of it. God the Father appearsabove, in Heaven , ſurrounded with Angels and Cherubins. Be neath him is the Holy Ghoſt, in form of a Dove, and ſeemsto preſide over what is done below . Jeſus Chriſt makes the Blood ſtream out of his Side ; which falls into a large Baſon . The Vir gin preſſes her Breaſt , and makes her Milk guſh out , which falls into the ſame Veſſel. The Mixture of theſe Sacred Liquors runs over, and falls into a ſecond Baſon ; and from thence thro' ſeveral other places into a Lake of Fire, where the Souls in Purgatory ſtrive to catch it, and are refreſh'd and comforted by it. The following Verſes are written in a corner of the Picture. ܪ Dum fluit è Chriſti benedikto vulnere Sanguis, Et dum Virgineum lac pia Virgo premit ; Lac fluit do Sanguis, fanguis conjungitur &lacy Et fit fons vitæ , fons d origo boni. Fic Vol. I. to ITALY. 177 Fit fons ex cujus virtutibus atque valore, Nobis offenſi tollitur ira Dei. Fit fons,quem cernens Cæleftis Spiritus, inde Exultans animo, gaudia mille trahit. Fit fons qui totum à peccatis abluit Orbem , quo mundatur commaculatus homo. Fit fous qui multùm cunctos refrigerat illos, Quos Orci purgans flamma fitire facit. Et Torrente voluptatis tuæ potabis eos. Þf: 35 You muſt not be ſurpriz'd to find the Vir gin's Milk join'd, and equally reſpected with the Blood of our Saviour, ſince her Devoto's fcruple not to ſay , that more are ſav'd by the Name of Mary, than by the Name of Jeſus. From Brixen to Bollane , which are but ſeven Hours diftant, the Way lies almoſt wholly be tween the River and the Mountains. Here the Rocks are ſo high, that they pierce the Clouds; and when the Snow melts, or a ſudden Thaw comes, it occaſions ſuch a tumbling of the Rocks as makes the Way very dangerous. A Traveller is pent up there as in a Streight, and in ſeveral Places has not Room enough to go either for ward or backward, without Danger, which threatens him equally either Way. The Acci dents which happen , and the Coaches which are overturn'd lo ofren in theſe uneven Ways, have occaſion'd the building of theſe little Ora tories which we met with ſo frequently on the Road. There they paint the Story of their Mis fortunes : And in the Picture you may ſee eve ry one invoking that Saint, or that Noſtredame, in which they place moſt Confidence : For ſuch a one has a profound Veneration for our Lady N of 178 A New.Voyage Vol. I. 1 of ſuch a Place,who would not beſtow one Wax Candle upon all the reſt. When any one is grievouſly wounded, or kill'd , there is nothing for either He or She- Saint ; but they who have the good Fortune to eſcape, erect theſe little Monuments I mention'd, after the ſame man ner that ſome Churches are fill'd with Preſents, which are uſually call'a Vows. Thoſe who are in any kind of Danger , implore either their Saint or their Relick, or their miraculous Image. If they are deliver'd they call their Preſervation a Miracle, and accompliſh their Vows. So, there have been already more than a Cart- load of Heads, Arms, and other Members of Silver , offer'd to our new Lady of Newburg : and there are ſeveral other large Churches hung round with the like Monuments. They every Day bring new ones, and the old , put in an other uſe, give Place to them ; for you may be ſure there is nothing loft. When we entred into the Valley of Bolfane, we were aſtoniſh'd to find the Air ſweet and temperate. The Vineyards were all green, as well as the Willows, Roſes , Mulberries, and many other Trees and Shrubs. A true Spring in the Middle of Winter , and in the Mid dle of Snows. This proceeds from its being ſhelter'd from ill Winds , and, may be, fome other Circumſtance in the Diſpoſition of the Ground. BOLSANE Bolſane is in the Biſhoprick of Trent. That very little City, has hardly any thing remarkable in it, for what I know, but its Fairs. There are four every Year, and each lafts fifteen Days ; during which the Commodities of Germany and Italy are exchanged. We obſerved in the Roof of the Nave or Body of the great Church, a round Vol. I. to ITALY. 179 a round Hole about three Foot in Diameter ; en compaſs’d with a kind of Garland tied with Ribbons of ſeveral Colours, at which hang 2 great Number of large Wafers. They told us, that on Aſcenſion- Day, there is a kind of Opera repreſented in this Church, and that a Man who repreſents Feſus Chriſt , is lifced up to Heaven thro' this Hole. All the Valley of Bolſane is full of Vineyards, and the Vine is much eſteem'd by the People of the Country ; but we Frenchmen are not much pleaſed with it , becauſe of its ſweetiſh Tafte. It is but a good Day's Journey from Bolſane to Trent, 'thro' the Valley which is very fruitful and pleaſant . From Place to Place, near the Vines are little Huts of Straw , whic . are ſupported by three high Firr-Poies, placed like a Trevet ; they hide themſelves with a Carbine, in one of theſe little Huts, and kill the Bears which come down from the Mountain to de vour the Grapes. Trent is a little City, not much more conſide- TRENT. rable than Bollane, and is almoſt ſituated after scrivono alcu the ſame manner. ' 'Tis founded on a flat Rock, ni, come rife of a kind of white and reddiſh Marble, of which " ille G.Pirra moſt of the Houfes are built. This City hath libro de Gelis Mantuano, nel Geſtis been ſeveral times laid wafte, by the Inunda. Ducum Tri tions to which it is ſubject. The River often denti ,che ac overflows, and the Brooks of Levis and Ferſena, quiſtafſe tal nome di Trie tumble ſometimes from the Mountains with ſuch dento, da tre a terrible impetuoſity, that they drive before Torrenti, quali them great Rocks, and rowl them even into ſcendono dalli the Town. Ferom Fracaſtorius Phyſician to the monti a queſta Fathers of the Council, infifted , at the Pope's li dicole luogo Luogo ; fi ceme Inftigation upon the Badneſs of the Air, when di tre torrenti the Queſtion concerning the Removal of the Leand. Al. Council to Boulognia was in Diſpute; but there berti, Marca Trevigiana. was with Reaſon , (if I may give Credit to thoſe N 2 that 180 A New Voyage Vol.i. 1 that have informed me here about that Affair) that the Emperor's Friends were not in the leaſt Concern about that pretended Danger. Trent is encompaſs’d with a ſingle Wall, and the Adige runs by the side of it. They boaſt of the Bridge which is built over this River , tho' there is no thing extraordinary about it. They magnify alſo the Biſhop's Palace, as a great and ſplendid Edifice ; and I remember I had heard the ſame Things ſaid of it before : But theſe Reports had given usa falſe Notion of that Houſe , which is low, and of a very indifferent size. The Bi Shop is a Temporal and Spiritual Lord in his Dioceſs, which is of a large Extent. This Prince wasformerly very rich ;; but cannot be ſaid to be ſo now. By vertue of an Agreement be twixt him and the Venetians, thoſe whom he con demns to the Gallies, are ſent aboard their Vef fels ; and on the contrary he is permitted to export a certain Quantity of Oil out of their Country, without paying Cuſtom . Some place Trent in Italy, others make it Part of Tirol : But the latter are miſtakerr, if we may believe an cient Geographers and the People of the Coun try ; for they fay Trent is in Italy ; tho' the Bi ſhop is a Prince of the Empire ; and the com mon Language of Trent is the Italian . They ſhew'd us in a Chappel of the Cathe dral , the Crucifix, Sub quo jurata da promulgata fait Synodus : It is as big as the Life, and, they ſay, it bowed its Head, to teſtifie the Appro bation which it gave to the Decrees of that Monconys, Aſſembly. They add, That no Man ever cou'd fays , he has diſcover what it is made of; fo that many doubt, feen in this Church some whether it was made with Hands. They are Relicks of St. Virgilius Biſhop of Trent, who luffer'd very much, having been accus'd of Herefie, for saying, he really believed there were Antipodes. going Vol. I. to ITALY. 181 WN а 1 going to take it from the dark Place in which we ſaw it, and to ſet it in a magnificent Chap pel, which will ſhortly be finiſh'd ; where they expect it will do more Miracles chan ever : It is call’d, by way of Eminency , The Holy Crucifix. From thence we went to St. MaryMajor, which, notwithſtanding its Title, is but a little Church. 'Tis built of a Kind of baſe Marble, and it was in this place where the Council fate . The Or gans of this Church are extraordinarily large. They played to us many Ayres, and counter feited theCries of a great many Animals : They imitated the Beating of a Drum, and ſhow'd us feveral other Tricks, which were very unſuit able to the Nature of the Place, and the Gra vity of the Council which is repreſented in a large Pi& ure hard by: Afterwards they carried us to the Church of St. Peter, to ſee the little Saint Simonin in his Chappel. They ſay that in the Year 1276, the Jews ſtole the Child of a Shoe- maker's 28 Months old, whoſe Name was Rigord , Phan Simon , and after they had let out all his Blood ſician and His in a moſt cruel manner , to ſerve at the Celeftoriographer of Philip Au bration of one of their Feafts, they threw the guſtus,writes, Carcaſs into a Canal ( which ſtill paſſes to chát in 1180 the Houſe wherethe thing was done , and the Jews of Paris tore by where their Synagogue was at that time) and Whipping, and that the Body was carried by the Current into crucified a Boy the River, and taken up by Fiſher-men. In a of 12 Years word, the whole Villany was diſcover'd ; the old ,named Ri chard , she Son Fews were convicted , Thirty nine of them of a Citizen ; minals were put to Death ; that all the Jews were driven Qult of the King. dom , and young Richard was Canonized. R. Duniont, Continuer of the Chronicle of Sigibert . Rob. Gaguin , Library. Keeper of Louis XII . Du. pleix, and many others , report the same story . M- zeray aisla , that Louis Hucrin recalled the Jews, and that That Nation berre accus'd (or poyloning the Fountains and Wells in the r:ar 1321 ; were bani h’il for evci by Philip V. The Edie is fill in force. hang'd ز that the Crime N 3 182 A New Voyage Vol. 1 > 1 hang’d, and the reſt baniſh'd the City for ever. Sixtus IV, who was then Pope, being inform’d of the whole Matter , thought fit to canonize the Child, by the Name of Simonin , the dimi nutive of Simon, the Father's Name. The Body was embalm'd , and is now expos'd to View in a Shrine upon the Altar of the Chappel, which is dedicated to him. They keep alſo in an ad joining Cupboard , the Knife, Pincers, and four great Iron Needles, with which his Butchers tormented him ; and two Silver Goblets , in which it is ſaid they drank his Blood. Thus the Fews were expelld : But ſome Years after they obtain'd a Permiſſion to remain three Days in the City for Buſineſs. Theſe three Days were reduc'd to three Hours, becauſe of their Obfti nacy in defending Buda, during the laft Siege. I have ſeen the Story of Little Simon painted at Francfort under the Bridge Gate , to load theſe miſerable People who live in that City, with new Reproach ; and they have added other in famous Figures, where the Devil and Swine are repreſented mocking and laughing at the Jews. I know this Action of which they accuſe the JewsofTrent ; and which gave Occaſion to the Prohibiting them from reſiding there, has ap pear'd too enormous to abundance of People ever to be credited : I have met with ſome Sorts of Wits , that think it becomes 'em to re ject this whole Story as fabulous : But thoſe Perſons are miſtaken ; For Facts that do not imply any Contradiction, how ftrange foever they are , ought not to be rejected as falſe, up on the account of their being Strange ; and there are ſome more extraordinary than this ,that are undoubtedly true ; ' Tis then the Nature of the Proofs, their Number and their Authority that muſt be examin'd into. Now to take the Thing 11 183 Vol. I. to ITALY. I 1 .. Thing upon that Foot, thoſe that will give themſelves the Trouble of conſidering the alle- , gata and the Probata, as ſome Perſons of my Ac quaintance have done, they will be oblig'd to own, that the Matter of fact, ſubſtantially, is prov'd ; or at leaſt, they cannot ſay, without ſpeaking raſhly , that it is not. But beſides, 1 ſay, that the Murder of this Child is by no means of the Number of thoſe things altogether ſo enormous, as to feem con trary to common Senſe and Reaſon : We have every Day fad Examples of Mothers, who to ſave their Reputation ſtrangle their own Chil dren : And therefore why ſhould we not eaſily believe, that a Set of Fews, who on one Hand are full of ridiculous and deteſtable Superſtitions ; and on the other, eaten up with Malice againſt the Chriſtians, beneath whoſe Feet they behold themſelves trampl’d , without daring to murmur at it ; why ſay I , ſhou'd it appear ſo little rea ſonable, that they ſhould uſe aa Creature, whom they profeſs to eſteem leſs than a Dog, and a gainſt whom their Religion cauſes them to make horrid * Imprecations, with the ſame Cruelty "Mosbita * that ſo many Mothers themſelves treat the Fruitrum Idume . orum ( lic of their own Womb ? or ( if one demands other hodie ab illis Examples )with the Inhumanity practis'd by Chri-Chriſtiani ap ſtians themſelves, in an infinite Number of but pellantur ) too true Maſſacres of fucking ( hildren of other ruinam , & Chriſtians. What dreadful Things are not thoſe, Deo efflagi excidium à who are intoxicated with the Fury of a falſe Re- tant ut terror ligion , capable of performing ? and do not we & anguſtia every Day ſee the lamentable Effees of chefe Gerres omnes theſe curſed Notions ? invadanı, doc. J. Bak :orf. Sy Moreover, which is moſt probable, eithernag. Jud .Cap, that the Jews, ſuch as I have juſt now defcrib’d XI. ' em ( and I could yet ſay a great deal more of ' em ) have committed this ſuperſtitious and cru el > N 4 184 A New Voyage Vol. I. el Act ; or that the Chriſtians who have driyen 'em out, have made themſelves guilty of the higheſt Enormities, in putting Nine and Thirty of thoſe miſerable Wretches to Death ? in Tor menting to the higheſt Degree their unfortunate Families ? And by helliſhly imputing to'em ſuch heinous Crimes, of which they knew 'emto be innocent ? Does Reaſon allow that we ſhould charge the Chriſtians with ſuch execrable Pro ceedings, purely to excuſe the Jews, even a gainſt all manner of Probability, ſince the deſ picable Condition to which theſe unfortunate Fews are reduc'd, does in every reſpect give our Princes the fullPower ofdiſpoſing of'emat their pleaſure ; epeſcially, whentheonlyQueſtion is , whether they ſhall or ſhall not be ſuffered to live in ſuch or ſuch Place ? Has the Emperor any need of theſe Pretences to drive ' em either from Trent or elſewhere ? And did they not treat us in the ſame manner in France, when they depriv'd us arbitrarily of our Liberty ? But, ſay they, why ſhould thoſe Fews be guil ty of ſuch an Action, ſince Moſes has not gi ven ' em any ſuch Commandment ? This Obje ction ſignifies nothing at all ; firſt becauſe as I have already ſaid , we ought not to diſpute 4 gainſt Facts that are prov'd and confirm’d. See condly, becauſe in a great many Religions as they call 'em , there are ſuperſtitious Practices that are monſtrous , and for which we muſt not expect thoſe that are bigotted to ' em, fhou'd give any tolerable Reaſon . ' Tis not Moſes that has dicta ped to the Jews all the exceſtive Extravagancies oftheir Oral Law ; neither is it the Evangelifts that reach fome Chriſtians a great many Things which they do and believe, and which indeed are both fooliſh and impious. ' Tis beyond doubt that che 1 3 Vol. I. to ITALY 1185 in lepo het w 1. vi 1 Crucem ege mig for We nu the modern Fewshave committed other outra- In Palæſtina, gious Attemptsof this ſame Nature ; why then inChriftianæ Religionis may they not be guilty of this ? As for ſome Ludibrium ; certain Variations in the Circumſtances of the Puerum Chri Adions, they are by no means to be alledg'd ftianum in as Proofs of its Falſehood, but rather of the con runt, multif. frary as I have obſerved already. que Verberi. bus miferè excruciatum neci dederunt Anno. 1250 , Puerum feptem anno rum, in Paſchare, Cruci affixum , lanceâ in pectus contorrâ, occiderunt. (iz Arragonia)-Simile facinus abipſis commillum Tridenti,circa Ann.1475. & Bernæ in Helvetia 1287. Puteos veneno infecerunt in Provincia Narbor nenſi, An. 1322. Ejuſdem ſceleris convicti funt, An. 1349. Argentorati, Balleæ , Bernæ , Zophingæ, ( & Noriberga ) ubi meritas penas dederunt, &c. ( Ant. Hulfius in his Treatiſe, deTheologia Judaica, Lib. 1. Part 2 . Pages 415, 416, 417 , of the Breda Edition , 1053 , relates ſeveral other Cruelties that have been committed by theſe people. See alſo the Hiſtorical Me ditations of Phil. Camerarius, Book 3. Chap. 2. See Rob. Gaguin , and all the French Hiſtorians, in the Reign of Philip Auguftus; they Crucified ſeve ral Children. See Stow's Engliſh Chronicle. See allo Mr. Bafnage's Hiſtory of the Jews, Page 51. of the Firſt Edition, and the Bibliotheque Critique of Mr. S. Jore, Tom . I. Page 109. Le Paris Ancien & Nouveau of Mr. Le Maire, Tom , I. Page 406. Les Hift.Trag. of Boaiſtuau, po $ 8 . I remember the Two laſt Verſes of an Epi taph on the Tomb of a Young Lady, that I have obſerv'd in the Church of St. Mark : I be lieve they will not diſpleaſe you : This Young Wife ſays to her Husband, YA J Immatura péri, ſed Tu diuturnior annos Vive meos, Conjux optime, vive tuos. I am, Trent, Dec. SIR, 13. 1687., Your, &c. > LET 186 A New Voyage Vol. I. LETTER XIV. SIR, W! ROVERE E paſſed thro' the little City of Rovere DO. Reborge do, where they drive a pretty Trade in $ um , Silk. Bourguetto is not far off, which is the leaft Village of the Biſhoprick of Trent, and Olſenigo the first of the State of Venice : A little wooden Croſs is the Boundary of theſe two Sovereign ties. A little on this fide Roveredo, we travelld thro' a Country full of looſe Rocks, ſcatter'd here and there, as if an Earthquake had thus fow'd them from the Ruines of ſome Mountain: This is call'd the Wood of Roveredo, tho' there is not ſo much as the Branch of a Tree in it . The Paffage is ſometimes dangerous, by reaſon of Thieves, as well as the Foreſt of Vergnara, which is between Oſſenigo, and the Fort ofGuardara. Our Vetturino advis'd us to take ſome Guards in this lat Paſſage ; rather I believe to get ſome thing for them , than to defend us againſt any Danger.. After we enter'd into the State of Vée nice, we find no more of thoſe Stoves , of which Germany is full ; and we obſerv'd a fenfible Alte ration in a great many Things. CHIUSA . We wereoblig'd to lodge in a little Village call'd Seraino, becauſe it was too late to paſs ar the Cluſe. This is aa conſiderable Fort, the Situ ation of which reſembles that of the ſame name between Geneva and Lyons , on the River Rbone. The firſt is at the foot of an high Rock ; the Way Vol. I. to ITALY: 187 Way which leads to it , is dug out of the ſteep ſide of the ſame Rock ; and on the other ſide is a Precipice , at the bottom of which rowls the Adige. After we had paſs’d by this Fort, and had for ſome time follow'd the Banks of that River, which glides along betwixt high Rocks, the Proſpect began to open , and we en tred into a vaſt Plain ; whereas ever ſince our Departure from Munich , we had been clos'd be tween the Mountains. This Plain is ſtony and barren in divers Places. There are in it fome Olive- Trees, and White Mulberries for the Silk- Worms. " The Vines are planted at the Foot of Cherry - Trees, and young Elms, and creep from Tree to Tree. We paſs'd the Adige in a Ferry-Boat, two large Leagues from Seraino ; and a Quarter of an Hour after, we cou'd diſtindly perceive Verona, where we VERONA . arriv'd the fame Day. By what we ſaw at our Entrance into it , we judg'd it to be but thinly peopled ; there being great void Places on that ſide , and Graſs growing in the Streets, of which the greateſt Part are not paved. ' Tis true the reſt of the City is not like this Part ; but put ting all together, Verona looks like a poor Place ; and indeed there is but little Trade in it, and thoſe who live on their Eſtates make no great Figure. If there be ſome fine Buildings, ' tis certain , that the Houſes in general are very low and uneven. The greateſt part have Balconies of Wood, ſo loaded with little Gardens full of Pots, that it ſeems dangerous to walk under them . The Streets are dirty, and almoſt all nar row. In a Word, This City is not at all fit to pleaſe the Eyes of a Traveller at the firſt Sight ; Nevertheleſs, it is very large, in a good Air, and its Situation is very Fine. It yields but little Saris. 188 A New Voyage Vol. I. Satisfa & ion when you behold it nicar , and take a particular view of it when you walk in the Street ; but you admire it, when you look upon it from ſome Eminency . We went up to Erected on the * Cattle of St. Peter, which is on a riſing she Ruins of Ground, within the compaſs of the Walls, where Theater that we had a full Proſpect of it, and were charm'd was built by to behold that admirable Garden of Pleaſure, in be Old Be Penger . Vid.. the midſt of which it is ſeated. The Adige runs Luitprandum thro'it, and 4 fair Stone Bridges make the Com Ticin en lem , munication between the two Parts, into which & Onufrium the River divides it. The + Caſtle of St. Felix is Paņainum . behind that of St. Peter, and both together com mand the City. The other Fortifications of this 4 Begun by Place are much negle&ed, and very irregy John Galeas after the Ex. lar. cluſion of the Scaligers; and finiſh'd by the Venetians.

• The outward

Wall or Front, The Amphitheater of Verona is a thing ſo much It remains butthe more ſurpriſing, becauſe we do not frequent Seven Treme- ly meet with ſuch Monuments of Antiquity. aux of it, *The Incloſure is almoſt wholly deſtroy's, but Panuinus re Latesishes has theyhave taken care to repairthe Benches, ac that Part wasover cording as they fell to decay ; there are four sbrown by ax and forty of them, and I counted five hundred Earthquake. and thirty Paces in the higheſt round, and two See the De feriprion , J. hundred and fifty in the loweſt. Anthony Def Carotus made godetz , a skillful Architect, writes, that the of this Ame longeſt Diameter of the Arena, is 233 Foot of ploitheater. + French meaſure, and the ſhorteſt or Breadth 13 Engliſh Miles make 12 13.5 Foot and 8 Inches. That the Thickneſs of French ones , or the Building, without reckoning the external Foot of Corridor, amounts to 100 Foot and 4 Inches, French - Foot. and with the Corridor and Wall, to 120 Foot, and 10 Inches. Inſomuch that the Length of the whole amounts exactly to 474 Foot and 8 Inches, Vol. I. to I TAL Y. 189 He RE Inches. Every Step is * near a Foot and a half * One Foot and high, and about t twenty fix Inches in breadth : 3 Inches, of This laſt Diſtance couldnot be lefs, that thoſe Jure, according French Mesto who fate behind might not be troubleſome to'to Deſgodetz the others with their Feet. At each End of the + Two Foot and Arena, between the Benches, there is ' a Gate # half ascord twenty five Foothigh, which is the Entrance to Godetz. ing 10 Dos the Arena out of the Street ; and above every Says,that the Gate a kind of Tribune or Platform twenty Foot lower Seat is a long, and ten broad, encloſed before and on wo Foot and the ſideswith Balifters of Marble. | It is com- was surpriza balf high. 1 monly ſaid , that this was the work of Auguftus, to find 47 or at leaſt built under his Reign, but I find no Seats or Steps Proof of it. It remains ſtill at Verona a Triumphal mark'd in his

• Arch, with ſome Ruines of Ancient Monuments. certain, there Figure ; for ' tis

than 44 I counted ' em twice, and in two ſeveral Places. The Height of the whole according to the ſame Author, amounts 10 93 Feet, 7 Inches and a half. See the little Treatiſe which Juſtus Lipſius wrote of Amphitheaters. ll Others attribute it to the Emperor Maximin. The Inſcription of this Arch cannot te read : ' Tis thus related by N. Vig nier, in his Hiſtorical Library. Colonia Auguſta Verona Galieniana. Van leriano. II. & Lucilio Coſs. Muri Veronenfium Fabricati, & die III. Non. April. dedicati. prid. No. Decemb. jubente fan &tiſimo Galieno. LIV ME are no more ET

• .

Aug. N. " . The Cathedral is a little dark Church. Pope Lucius III, is interr’d there ; and the Epitaph on his Tomb- ſtone is only this, olla Lucii III, Roma pulfus invidia. I expected to have found another, which is more ingenious, and which I remember I have read ſomewhere : Luca dedit tibi Lucem, Luci ; Pontificatum Oſtia ; Papatum , Roma ; Verona , mori. Immo Verona dedit tibi Lucis gaudia , Roma, Exilium ; curas, Oſtia ; Luca , mori. You 190 & New Voyage Vol. I. You know this Pope had great Broils with Frede rick Barbaroſſa, as well as Alexander III, his Pre deceſſor. But this was not the only Cauſe of his leaving Rome : He was driven out by the Magi ſtrates, and by the * People, becauſe he'endea vour'd to play the Tyrant. 1 Lucius eft piſcis Rex atque Tyrannus aquarum , A quo diſcordat Lucius iſte parum. Devorac ille Homines, hic Piſcibus infidiatur : Efurit hic femper, ille aliquando fatur. Amborum vitam ſi laus æquata notaret, Plus rationis habet, qui ratione carec. ried in the a Father Mabil. 'Tis faid, that Pepin , the Son of Charlemain, lon Says, that and King of Italy, built the Church of St. Zeno, Pepin lies bu- at Verona. It muſt be confeſs’d, the Sculptors, of that Agewere miſerable Artifts. Neverwere Same Church. there ſeen ſuch wretched Figures as theſe in the Several Wris Front of this Church. I obſerv'd in the Fron Teps of chroni tiſpice of the great Gate, two Sorts of Birds, cles relate,that which by their Combsſomewhat reſemble Cocks. under the Reign of To- They hold an Animal having a long Tail , be tilas, about tween them, which we ſuſpected was deſign'd she middle of to repreſent a Fox. This poor Beaſt had his Feet zbe fixth happen'd age, tied together, and hung upon a Pole, the ends en furious Inun. of which are ſupported by the Cocks . I can. dation of the not forbear ſearching into the meaning of this Adige, which little Myſtery ; andif you pleaſe, I will ven broke in jo vi. olently wpon the ture to tell you my Thoughts of it. The Alluſi City of Vero on of Galus, a Cock, to Gallus, a French-man, is na, that the a thing ſo familiar , that I fanſie the two Cocks Water aſcend ed to the highamay ſignifie two French -men, and the Animal aft Windows ofthus bound, muſt be ſome crafty Fellow, cheat sheChurch of' ed nevertheleſs, and ſupplanted by the Cocks. St. Zeno. From Ir hence we muſi conclude, that there was a Church Dedicated to the pretended Si, Zeno ( in the 4th Age ) either in that Place, or some other of the city , before Pepin built this ; becauſe Tocilas liv'd a great while before him. The Vol. I. to ITALY.. 190 The filly Crane hath ſometimes ſuplanted the cun ning Renard. But to apply this Emblem to ſome particular Event : Suppoſing it to be true,that this preſent Churchwas built under Pepin, as it ſeems very probable, it may be conjectur'd , that his Fa ther Charlemaign and he were the two Cocks; and that the unfortunate Didier, the laft King of the Lombards, was the Fox : You know Charlemaign caus’d himſelf to be crown'd King of the Lom bards, ſoon after he had dipoffefs'd Didier, who was thaven , and put into a Convent, and may be very naturally ſuppos'd to be repreſented by the Fox. Or the fame Emblem may be apply'd to his Son, whoſe Name, I think, was Adalgiſe, who was at laſt taken and kill'd, after he had vainly employ'd all his Wit and Force to regain the Poffeffion of his Father's Dominions. Tis not probable, that Charlemaign wou'd amuſe him ſelf with ſuch a Trifle, but it might perhaps be the Fancy of the Sculptor. On the ſide of the ſame Gate where they have put this fine Hiero glyphick, there is a Man on Horſe-back in Baf ſo Relievo, over whom theſe Three Verſes are written in Characters that are half Roman, and half Gothick : a O Regem ftultum , petit infernale tributum . Móxq; paratur equus quem mifit Demon iniquus. Exit aquâ nudus, petit Infera non rediturus. If I have given you ſome Conjectures con cerning the Fox, I confeſs I can gueſs nothing of the Devil's Horſe. Returning from thence , we paſs'd by the little Church call'd Sancta Maria Antica , near which there are ſeveral magnificent Tombs of the Scaligers , who were Princes of Verona, before 192 A New Voyage Vol.i. a Verona, before that City belong’d to the Repub lick of Venice. The Rarities which we ſaw in the Cabinet of the Count Moſcardo, deſerve that ſome Learned Man ſhould undertake their Deſcrip

• Since the firſt tion : * And it is to be wondered at, that thoſe poriting of this, who have had the Curioſity, and the Means to I know they have Publiſhdamaſs ſo many fine Things together, ſhould not Deſcription have had the Care to procure exact Prints of of this Cabi' them , and to add explanatory Remarks on net, nay I have ſuch as are moft conſiderable ; ſcarce anything read it over , ;

but 'tis a very more remarkable can fall within the Obſer ill Piece. vation of a Traveller, nor any. Thing that de ſerves better to be ſtudied anddeſcribd. There is a Gallery, and Six Chambers, all filld with the moſt curious Productions of Art or Na ture. But as it is not poſſible for me to give you a particular Account of ſo many Things, ſo will I not engage my ſelf in ſuch a Task, neither at preſent, nor for the future : You need but call to mind all that you have alrea dy ſeen in my Letters, and particularly that Roman Rods which I ſent you from Inſpruck. Pi& ures, Books, or Faſces. Rings, Animals, Plants, Fruits, Metals, mon ſtrous or extravagant Productions, and Works of all Faſhions ; and, in a Word, all that can be imagin’d curious, or worth enquiry, whe ther for Antiquity or Rarity, or for the Deli cacy and Excellency of theWorkmanſhip. The Catalogue of them would alone amount to a Volume ; only to ſatisfie you in ſome meaſure, I aſſure you, that when-ever I ſhall meet with any thing that I have not taken notice of before, and which ſhall ſeem worthy of particular Ob ſervation , I will take care to communicate it to you. ز 1 There Vol. I. . , to ITALY. 193 There are here many Inſtruments and Uten fils, which were uſed in the Pagan Sacrifices. They alſo ſhow'd us Figures of Braſs, that repre fent all Sorts of Things, which they hung up in the Temples of their Gods, when they had re ceiv'd any Affiftance from them . To gratifie in ſome meaſure your Curioficy, I have added in this place a ſhort Scheme of the Inſtruments uſed by the ancient Pagans, which I hope will not be unacceptable to you. 6 AN 194 A New Voyage Vol.I. ANTIQUA SACRIFICIALIA. Ons j . SISTRUM or CREPI TACULUM, an Inſtru ment of Braſs with which the Egyptians us'd to call tle People to the Sacrifices. There were ſeveral fores of ' em , which were made uſe of on different occafi 2. LITUUS, the Augural ог , Staff, or a ſort of Crofier Biſhops Staff, which theAu. gurs uſuallycarry'd in their Hands, and with which they mark'd our Spaces in the Air, in order to their Divination by Birds. 3. CAVEA and PULLI. There was alſo a ſort of Divination by Chickens. When they eat greedily 'rwas reckon'd a good Sign ; and a better, when a Bic or Grain fell from their Beaks, as they were Feeding. When they re fus'd to eat ,'twas eſteem'd a bad Omen, and much more when they ran away . 4. AQUIMINARIUM or AMULA. A Veſſel full of Aqua Luftralis. It was plac'd at the Doors of the Temples, where the Peo. ple ſprinkld themſelves with that Holy Water. 5. PATERA. An Inſtru meut with which they pour'd Wine on the heads of the Victims. 6. PREFERICULUM. А Vefſel of Braſs, in which they put the Wine that was usd in Libacions. 7. SYMPULUM or SYM . PUVIUM. A little Vef. fel, uſually of Earth , into which the Wine was pour'd out of the Preferia culum , to make the firſt Effuſions. 8. ALTARE. There were many different forts of Ala tars. 9. TRIPUS or TRIPES There were Tripus's of ſe. Varal Sorts, according to the variousUſes for which they were appointed. This ſometimes ſerv'd for an Alcar , when Oblations were offer'd to the Low meſtick Gods. And, on ſeveral occaſions ' was alſo us'd inſtead of a Chafin dich in the celebration of Sacrifices. 10. MALLEUS. The Mal let with which the large ſort of Victims knock'd on the Head . II . SEVA or SECESPITA . A long Knife with which they cut the Throats of the larger fort of Vietims, ſuch as Bulls, Rams, and Swine. The Knives had uſually an Ivory Handle adorn'd with Nails and Studs of Gold and Silver. 52.CULTRI O CULTELLI. Lisele Knives for Victims ot' a ſmaller lize. 13 : SECURIS. The Axe with which the Victims were diſmember'd : And ſome times it fery'd to knock 'em on the head. were 14. DO . 23 21GUR 24 29 23 16 23 25 2 28 28 5 27 23 13 '13 16 11 13 13 10 QOF -正 14 . 18 13 14 13 21 11 23 26 15 23 | 111111114 , 3 12 6 to 8 . 12 years 4 24 8 19 ) 22 20 Plate 4.Vol , P. 194 . 1 E . ID for Sc tice. CL . BR . CCC fron CILI 18 LII ment made exam the V 19. LIT was al Horn they i tony 20. TUB theypl ring the Sacrifice 21.PATER The Cu feceiv'de Vol. 1. to ITALY 195 9 14. DOLABR A. Large Victims. The Sacrificers Knives to diſmember the alſo made uſe of 'em when larger , fort of Vi& ims. they offer'd Wine to Gods. 15. ASPERSORIUM, A. 22. THURIBULUM . The SPERGILLUM , or LU- Velfel in which they burnt STRICA. An Inſtrument Incenſe , during the Cere. with which they ſprinklid mony of theSacrifice. themſelves with Aqua- Lu- 23. CÁPIDES, CAPULÆ, firalis CAPEDINES, CAPE 16. DISCUS. A Sort of DUNCULÆ, or CAPE Trencher or flat Bafon, in DUNCULI, URNULÆ which they ſometimes put LIGNEÆ, & FICTILES. the Encrails of the Victims, Several ' liccle Veſſels ap ſometimes Blood and pointed for ſeveral Uſes. Flower , and ſometimes 24. ACERRA or THURA roaſted Fleſh . RIUM . An Incenſe Box. 17. ENCLABRIS. The Ta- 25. CANDELABRA.Lamps ble on which they plac'd and Candleſticks. the Victim to examine its 26. OLLA. The Pot in Entrails, in order to the which the Prieſts boil'd Divinations that were per their Portion of theVietim . form'd by way of Augury. 27. VAGINA. The Sheach Several Utenſils for Sacri. which the Sacrificer ' hung fices were alſo call'd EN. at his Girdle , and in which CLABRIA or ANCLA. he kept ſeveral ſorts of BRIA, from the word AN. Knives. CULARE, 1. e. miniſtrare, 28. APEX, The Sovereign from whence comes AN- Pontiff's Mitre. CILLA. 29. ALBOGALERUS. The 18. LIGULA. Anlaſtru . Flamin's Mitre. ment which the Augurs made uſe of when they You muſt not imagine tha examin'd the Entrails of all theſe Inſtruments are in the Victims the Cabiner of Count Mofcar 19. LITUUS. This .Name do ; but Ihave ſeen every one was alſo given to a Sort of of ' em either there , or in oo Horn or Clarion which ther Places : And I hope the they founded at the Cere curiousReader will be pleas'd mony oftheHecatombs. to ſee ' ein all brought toge 20. TUBA. APipe on which ther into fo narrow acompaſs. chey play'd fometimes du. Every one of theſe Inſtruc ring the Ceremony of the ments might be made the ſub Sacrifices. ject of an encire Differtation a 21.PATERÆ or PATELLÆ But this is not a fic Place to The Cups in which they enter upon more ' parricular receiy'd the Blood of the Enquiries of that Nature. e. 0 2 We 196 New Voyage Vol. 1. We ſaw alſo many Pieces of Workmanſhip , fram'd out of the Stone Amianthos, which is the debes o , fo famous among Naturalifts : This Stone, as hard and weighty as it is, is eaſily di vided into Fibres or Threads, which are ſo ſtrong and flexible , that they may be ſpun like Cotton . Before I leave this Head, I muſt ac quaint you with this Remark concerning the Ina ſtances of Petrefaction, which I have obſerv'd either here or elſewhere ; that there is frequent ly a great deal of Error and Uncertainty in them , and that there are ſeveral Perſons who fcruple not to uſe a little Artifice to multiply and diverſifie the Rarities with which they de ſign to fill a Cabinet. It cannot be deny'd, that Nature ſeems to divert her ſelf ſometimes with ſuch Sorts of Metamorphoſes ; but it muſt alſo be confeſs'd, that they are often counterfeited by Art. I know not whether you ever ſaw any of thoſe pretended Animals, callid Bafilisks. The Invention is prettily contriv'd , and has deceiv'd, many. They take a ſmall Ray, and having turn'd it after a certain manner, and rais'd up the Finsin form of Wings, they fit a little Tongue to it, ſharp like a Dart, and add Claws and Eyes of Enammel , with other little Knacks, dere terouſly piec'd together ; and this is the whole Secrecy of making Baſilisks. I am not ignorant

• Te ke com . that ſome Authors mention another ſort of

Pure Ofense Baſilisk , without either Feet or Wings, which , but very they repreſent like a crown'd Serpent , and ma , Ibat ibe forę ty Naturaliſts affirm , that itkillswith its Breath fert of Bafi and Looks. Galen takes notice of it as the moft Lisks are gene- venomous of all Serpents, and tells us, that the rate in the Wezel only fears not its Poyſon, but onthe con Egg of an old trary, poyfons it with its Breath. But I believe Coska this Serpent is to be found only in the Land of Pbanixes, Unicorns, and flying Dragons.

1 1204 Vol. I. to ITALY 197 which aga el ੩॥ jes 1911 2013 I might alledge many other little Cheats, like The Curious that of thefirſt Bafilisk ; but to return to our may learn, in Account of Petrefaction, I ſhall fix only upon bowo they make one of ' em, or a pretended one. There is a tbe Mandrakes, certain natural Produ & ion , a Kind of imperfe & wbic are me t ber Sert of Plant, òr a Coralline Matter, which extreamly Forgery. reſembles a Muſhrome. I know not whether ſome Perſons really deceive themſelves, or are They are free only willing to deceive others: but ’ ris certain',s guently found that they give the Name of Petrify'd Muſhromes, in the Red See to thoſeSorts of Corals which never wereMuſh romes. The Queſtion depends upon theMatter of Fact ; but beſides every one may ſee that no thing in the World is leſs capable of Petrefacti on than a Muſhrome, becauſe of the Looſeneſs and Sofineſs of its Subſtance ; we moft conſider that ſuch a Metamorphoſis cannot be done in a very ſhort time. Iremember I obſerv'd in this Cabinet many of thoſe thin Skins of Trees, on which the An cients wrote, beforethey knew the uſe of Pa per. Two Trees of black Coral, three Foot high each ; A Hen's Egg which is of this Figure ; A Knife of Stone ex treamly ſharp, which ſome Jews make uſe of for the Circumciſion of Children who died before the Eighth Day. There is a great Difference in the Modern Jewiſh Çe- See concerning remonies, particularly between the Oriental, Ger- thar Matter, man , Italian ,and Portugueſe Jews. I rememberquThom : n . part . A3. I have read in Buxtorf, an infinite Number of Summe. their Cuſtoms that are not uſed in this country. Quæft. 29. Claud , Drufius in notis ad Jofuam C. s . Ramirezius , Cap. 4. Pentecontarchi. Pifcator, in Queftionib. L- Cajet. ad Jofusin 5. Claud. Jun . Arias Mont. & Pagn. in eundem Locum . Theodoret Quæſt. in Jof. s . Er Sixtinus Amama , in Antibarbaro Biblico. L. 2. in Exod. IV, 25 . asy I q Art 34 03 Some 198 A Nero Voyage Vol. I. . a a

• It is Jaid acSome make uſe of the Cutting-Stone *, accord cording to the ing to the ancient Practice : But in Italy, they Hebrew , in generally uſe to bury the dead Child without the sth Chap- Circumciſion ; and when they circumciſe them,

ter ofheJoſhua,they uſe a Knife made of a Cane : The ordina cumciſed ihe ry Circumciſion is perform'd with a Steel Knife. Children of Il rael with Knives of Stone ; and in the 4th of Exodus, That Zippora circuma ciſed her Son wiih a Stone. Joſeph Scaliger Says, there are Jewswho take off the Prepuce with their Nails ; and others who cut it a little, and tear away the reft. I have ſeen it cut with a kind of Razor at London and Rome. We have ſeen a Burial to day, of which I will give you ſome Account. The Body was dreſs’d in a Black Suit, with a Cloak : He had fine clean Linen, a new long Peruke, a Hat upon his Head ; and upon the Hat, a Garland of Flowa ers. The Corps was laid in a fitting Poſture, on a Quilt, cover'd with aCounterpane of Yellow and Red Brocard, and ſupported with a Pillow of the fame Stuff. FourMen carry'd it thus all open, and the Company follow'd Two and Two. Garlands are only us’d for thoſe who were never married . This was alſo the Cuſtom of the Ancients, and they call'd it Corona pudicitiæ , The Crown of Chaſtity. Some Hours before, we had another Rencounter : It was a Woman richly dreſs'd , who walk'd thro' the City be tween two Nuns, and was going to take the Habit. ' Tis uſual in this Country to go thus in Publick, whereas in France, and many other Pla ces, this Ceremony is perform'd in the Convent, M. Montel, A French Merchant who liv'd here ſeveral Years, now living in has just now given me an Account of a Proceffi London, 1712 on, which he had often feen, and which I have a great mind to relate to you before I finiſh my Matth . Letter. ' Tis believ'd at Verona, that after Chriſt Mark ii . had made his Entrance into Jeruſalem , he dil miſſed che * Shę or He-Aſs on which he rode, and John 12. ordered 21 . Luke 19. Vol. I. to ITALY 199 ordered that he ſhould paſs the reſt of his Days in quiet and liberty. They add, that ' the Ais, weary with having wandered ſo long in Paleſtine, reſolv'd to viſit foreign Countries,and to un dertake a Voyage by Sea ; nor had he any need of a Ship , for the Waves became ſmooth, and the liquid Element grew as hard as Cryſtal. After he had viſited the Iſlands of Cyprus, Rhodes, Candia , Malta, and Sicily, he paſs'd over the Gulf of Venice, and ſtaid ſome Days in the Place where that famous City was afterwards built : * But the Air feeming to be unhealthful , and the Paſturage bad among theſe Salt and Mariſh Ifands ; Martin continu'd his Voyage , and mounted the River of Adige dry-ſhod, and co ming up to Verona , he made choice of that Place for his laſt Reſidence. After he had liv'd there ſome Years like an honeſt Aſs, he died at laſt, to the great Grief of the Confraternity. Sola mentable and univerſal a Braying, made the E. choes to reſound thro' the Country, that never was ſo fad a Melody heard at the Funeral of ſuch an Animal, not even in Arcadia it ſelf. But they quickly found a way to alleviate their Grief, for all the Honours imaginable being render'd to the bleft Deceas'd, the Devotees of Verona took care to preferve his Relicks, and put them into the Belly of an Artificial Aſs, made for that purpoſe, where they are kept to this Day, to the great Joy and Edification of Pious Souls. This Holy Statue is kept in the Church of Notre Dame of the Organs, and four of the luſtieſt Monks in the Convent, in Pontifical Habits, carry it ſo lemnly in Proceſſion two or three times' every Year. I have juſt now made a ſecond Viſit to the Cabinet of Count Moſcardo; and the obliging Perſon who receiv'd me was pleas'd with my Curio a O 4 200 New Voyage Vol. I, ture , Curioſity , inſtead of looking upon it as a Trou ble. He affur’d me, that he never thought anypart of his Timeſo acceptably employ'd ,asthatwhich he ſpent in ſewing his Curiofities to thoſe who love ' em : And that he was extreamly pleas'd he cou'd entertain me alone without being diſ turb’d by the Crowd , which for ſeveral Rea fons, he ſaid , made him always very uneaſie. We began immediately to take another View of many Rarities, or Curioſities ;; and I found him more communicative than the firſt time I ſaw him : For he talk'd very much, and was ſtill Mewing a great deal of Knowledge, and Litera Wefell upon Drawers of precious Stones, and he ſhew'd me very fine Amethyſts , and quoted ſeveral Authors, who affirm , that Foſepb preſented one ſet in a Ring to Mary when he eſpouſed her. And when I was looking upon the Saphires, he cited a Paſſage of St. Epipba nius, who believ'd, that God wrote the Deca logue upon a Saphire. The Vertues that are afcrib'd to theſe and other Stones , furniſh'd us with Matter for a new Converſation . He has a conſiderable Number of the Stones, which he calls Saette, Fulmini, Pietre ceraunei , and Thunder bolts. This is a Matter of fact, that if true , de ſerves to be examin'd ; and perhaps II may at ano ther time , give you a more poſitive Account relating to this Subject : But at preſent I muſt make hafte to finish my Letter. I took notice of ſome Mirrors of mixt Metal that were dug up near Verona , and are probably very Ancient. The Uſe of Mirrors made of Glaſs is an Inven tion that one may reckon amongſt thoſe that are new ; but thoſe that have written, without any manner of diſtinction , that Mirrors in general were unknown to the Ancients , are fallen into a groſs > ol Vol. I. to ITALY: 201 T: a groſs Miſtake, for both Sacred and profane Books make frequent mention of 'em, Among the great Variety of Coins that are to be ſeen in this Cabinet , there are ſome of Leather, but ſo disfigur'd , that I cou'd not make any certain Judgment of 'em. I remember the obliging and learned * Mr. Hearne, one of the He-bas Perba # Keepers of the famous Bodleian Library at Ox- kiſh'd what we ford, has hewn meone whichwas better pre- Livius, in 6 bave of Titus ſerv'd in the || Cabinet of the Schola Academica, Volumes in of which Cabinet he has the Care and Manage. O & avo : the ment.. No Man is ignorant of the Uſe that has Epifiles of Pli been made of this kind of Money , at ſeveral ny, Eutro pius, Juftin , Times, and on different Occaſions. Trogus Pom . peius ; and other Works : I know he is about a New Edition of Cicero, having the Aduan tage of ſeveral Manuſcripts to affif him in it. (1910 ) † Dr. Hudſon, S.T.P. - Man of great Worth and Learning, is the bine Library. Keeper .

1. Different from the Muſeum Achmoleanum which is near the Theatre .

I had 50 % 2 While I was conſidering the various sorts of Inſtruments and Veſſels that were made uſe of in the Sacrifices, Mr. N. ſhewed me an Aquimi- ô faciles nie narium or Amula , in which they kept the Luftral-mium , qui Waters at the Doorsof the Temples , Ishow triftia na crimi , you this , ſaid he ſmiling , to convince you Eng - Fluminea lifumin , that our Holy Water in Italy is not a mo- tolli poffe dern Invention. putatisAqua ! I ſaw alſo a vaſt Number of little Statues in Ovid .) ( Braſs, of Deities , Illuſtrious Perſons, Gladia tors , Wreſtlers , Soldiers both Greeks and Re mans, &c. Among the reft I found one of a Pigmy , ( all little Boys are very like Pigmies) and another of a Satyr. The former put us in Mind to take a View of the Bones of Giants : And to fatisfie our Curioſity about the latter, we ſtept into the Library to ſee what Euſebius and St. Fe rom have written of thoſe pretended Half-Men , ! J Or 202 A New Voyage Vol. I. or Satyrs, whom they didnot look upon as Cbi mera's. We conſulted Plutarch concerning the Dumb Satyr that was brought to Sylla ; and for got not the Story of another whom St. Anthony forc'd to ſpeak with a sign of the Croſs. After we had look'd upon the rareft Books in the Library, and ſome Manuſcripts that are neatly written and adorn'd with Paintings, but not very remarkable for any thing elſe , we re. turn'd to the Cabinet , where we ſpent above an Hour in viewing, both Fofil-Shells, and of other Kinds ; Urns, Sepulchral Lamps, Keys, Rings, Seals, Dials, Arms, Habits, Head-Dreſſes, Accoutrements of the Legs and Feet, &c. that were in uſe among ſeveral Nations, and in ſeve ral Ages. As for the Medals, I'm perſwaded we cou'd not have examin'd em all in a Month : For there are Thouſands of all Sorts. At laſt we began to view the Paintings, and to admire at leiſure the ſtupendious Works of thoſe Divine Men, to uſe the Expreſſions of Mr. N. which he utters out of the abundance of his Heart. He falls into Raptures, when he begins to extol the incomparable Charms of the Pencil of the great Raphael, and the great Titian : the Fecundity, Nobleneſs, and rich Diſpoſition of Julio- Romano, who was Raphael's Scholar ; the vaſt Imagination of Correge': The Graces and Softneſs of Guido, the fine Air of his Heads, and the excellent Ordonance of all his Pieces. The Correctneſs of Hannibal Carrache’s Deſigns, and the Beauty of his Colours, & c. ' Twou'd not be a very difficult Task to me to make ſome Reflections on that fine Language ; but it will be better to leave theſe Criticiſms for another Occaſion . I found alſo ſeveral Pieces of John Bellini, Andrew Mantegna, ( whoſe famous Cartons are to be ſeen at the Palace at Hampton -Court,with ſeveral Vol. I. to ITALY 203 2 ſeveral of Raphael's ; ) of Andrew del Sarto , old Palma, Holben , Andrew Schiavon , the Ballan's, Tintoret, Moretto , Paul Veroneſe, Fr. Carotto , and ſeveral others. Amongthe Pictures of Illuſtri ous Perſons, I obſerv'd thoſe of Henry VIII, Elizabeth his Daughter, Platina, Albertus Magnus, Bartolus, Machiavel, Boccacio, Sannazarius, Petrarch (one of my beſt Friends) Scotus, Eraſmus, Aretin, Arioſto, the Scaliger's Father and Son , and Car dinal Robert Bellarmin. Don't blame me for not mentioning ' em in order, but aſcribe the Fault to my hafte, which will not allow me to rank ' em according to their Antiquity or Merit. A mong the modern Medals, I remember, I found ſomeof Michael Angelo, Arioſto, Melanéthon, Eraſ mus, the Pirate Barbaroſa ; Attila and Mabomet, whom I might have nam'd firſt, 3 ز You know Catullus was a Native of Verona, Tantum magna fuo debet Verona Catullo, Quantum parva ( uo Mantua Virgilio. I am , Verona, Dec. 16. 1687 SIR, Your, & c LET 204 A Vict New Voyage Vol. 1. Vol or for la LETTER XV. gable Chu corre SIR, THECountry between Verona and Vicenza is TH in th Choi cril 三三三三爱 曼曼望 三三三三 liger trao Piec for Saw where level : The Trees are planted Checker wiſe on which the Vines are rais'd , and ſpread themſelves among the Branches : and the Ground is carefully tillid . We din'd at a little Village callid La Turre, where are the Bounds between the Veroneſe and the Vicentin. The Wines of this Country are much eſteem'd , and have been ſo formerly. I remember I have read in Suetonius, that Auguftus made them his ordinary Diink ; But ſince every one is allow'd to have a parti cular Taſte, I will take the Liberty of ſaying, That I have found a certain Sweetneſs in thoſe I have drunk in ſome Places, where they have been cry'd up for the Beſt, that has not pleas'd my Palate. The Bread taſtes as if it were made of Earth , tho'very white, and of excellent Flower ; becauſe they know not the Beſt way to make it. Together with this, they entertain'd us with a Diſh of old grey Peaſe, fry'd in Oil, and this was all our Dinner. Is it not veryſtrange, that we ſhould be in danger to die of Hunger in a fertile Country , after we had fed plentifully among the Rocks and Mountains ? The Soil is fat, and conſequently the Ways bad1 ; infomuch that at this seaſon , there was need of ſeven or eight Horſes to draw the Coaches : They put them all together under the Coachman's Whip, that he may drive them without a Pow ſtillion . Vicenza we COP Vol. I. 10 ITALY 205 Vicenza is at leaſt leſs by half than Verona, and VICENZA is only encompaſs'd with tottering Walls. Three or Four little Rivers meet there, which ſerve for ſeveral uſes ; but none of them are Navi gable. Our Guide carried us to ſome of the Churches : The Coronata is well paved and wain ſcotted : That of the Nuns of St. Catharine hath three fine Alcars. There are ſome good Pictures in the Cathedral ; where they fhew'd us in the Choir, an inlaid Work of Stones, which the Sa criſtan prais'd very much, tho'it is of no great value ; the Performance is better than the De ſign. The Town-Houſe has nothing in it ex traordinary , yet they boaſt of it as a rare Piece. To ſpeak the Truth , 'tis not an eaſie matter for Travellers to uſe themſelves to the Swelling Style of the Italians : The Genius of their Lan guage is ſuch , that 'tis impoſſible for ' em to ſpeak Things without ſome sort of Exaggera tion : Eſpecially, when they fall upon the To pick of Praiſing any Thing or Perſon , all they ſay then , is Stupendo, Maraviglioſo, Incomparabile. We have already ſeen I know not how many pretended Eighth Wonders of the World . When we complain'd at Verona, that there were ſo few conſiderable Buildings in ſo great a City, which had formerly been ſo famous; they aſſur’d us, that we ſhould find manyvaſt and noble Build ings at Vicenza : Vicenza, ſaid they, è ripiena di pa bazzi ſuperbiſſimi, con un Architettura Itaordinari mente ſuperba. Theſe were indeed big words ; but 'tis certain ,that never any Men found them ſelves more ſtrangely diſappointed than we were, when we came to ſee theſe pretended magni ficent Palaces of Vicenza . I confeſs that Men muſt agree about the Signification of their Terms : It muſt be allow'd to Italians to call any common

206 A New Voyage Vol. I. common Houſe a Palace, if they will : to give to a little Parlour the great Name of aChamber of Audience : To ſtyle a Foot-boy's Meſſage an Em baly: If they pleaſe let ' em call their Lacqueys Ambaſadors, and all their Houſes Louvres, I hear tily conſent to it : But tho' theſe Words found well in the Mouth of an Italian ; as for us, who were not bred in Italy, and who ſpeak a natural Language, we muſt not ſuffer our Selves to be impos'd upon with the falſe Notions of their Palazzi, and their Suntuoſiſſimi, when us'd in our own Tongue. The word Palais is not us'd ſo prodigally amongſt us, as that of Palazzo is among the Italians : It imports much more in your EngliſhTongue, as wellas in our French, and excites another Idea in our Hearers. In a word, they give the Name of Palazzi in Italy to cer tain ordinary Houſes, to which that of Palais does not belong ; neither in France, nor England. And to apply all that to the Superbiffimi Palaces of Vicenza , I maintain in general, that they may be cali'd pretty handſom Houſes, in French and Engliſh, and no more. Perhaps there are Three or Four for which a better Name could be granted ; but I ſee no Reaſon why they ſhou'd be term’d very fine ; ſince to ſpeak pro perly, they are but well -mask'd, and not fine Houſes : I ſpeak of thoſe that have nothing fine but the Frontiſpiece , and that too is no more than indifferent, for they are often built but with Plaiſter, inſtead of Free- Stone. I have inſiſted the longer on this, becauſe it is hard to root out the invecerate Prejudices with which many Peo ple are poſſeſs’d, about the Multitude of Palaces in Italy ; and I would endeavour always to res preſent Things as they are. Our Guide findingthat we were no great Ad mirers of his Palaces, fanfied however, that he knew ز viI 207 Vol. I. to ITALY OM แล้ว knew a Way to ſurprize us ; and having inſen ſibly oblig'd us to follow him , he drew us on thro’ the Dirt , a large half League from the City, to fhew us alittle Country-Houſe, which belong’d to the Marqueſs of Capra. It is a ſquare Building, in the midſt of which there is a little Hall, under a ſmall Dome, and at each Angle of the Square two Chambers and a Cloſet. There are ſome good Pictures in it ; and the Situation being ona little Aſcent, in a good Country, contributes to render the Place very agreeable. In our Return from this Houſe he carry'd us to the Madona of Montberic. She is famous in this Country, and the Prior told us her whole mi raculous Story very ſeriouſly. You are to know only, that this Image of our Lady came out of the Earth, in the very place where ſhe ſtands : And that they have often in vain endeavour's to tranſport her to Vicenza ; Ten thouſand Men together, as the Prior told us, wou'd not be able to make her ftir. The Picture by Paul Ve roneſe, which is in their Refectory , is the beſt Piece in the Convent : it repreſents St. Gregory at Table with ſome Pilgrims. There are ſome Ruines of an ancient Amphi theatre at Vicenza ; but they told us, they were almoſt all hid under new Buildings. The The ater in the Academy , call'd the Olympicks, is the Work of the famous Palladio. The Fabrick is none of the largeſt, and they uſe it only on certain Occaſions, which rarely happen. The Triumphal- Arch without the Gates , at the En trance of the Plain, which is call’d the Field of Mars, is in imitation of the Ancient Arches of that Name by the fame Palladio. The Garden of the Count of Valmanara, is very much'excolld in this City, and the Inſcri ption > 208 2 New Voyage Vol. 1 ption which we read over the Door, put us in ! great Expectations. This is the Subſtance of it : Stop, dear Traveller, tbou, who ſearcheſt for rare things, and enchanted Places ; for bere thou may ft find ſatisfaction . Enter into this delicious Garden , and tafte abundantly of all ſorts of Pleaſures : The Count of Valmanara gives thee leave; &c. ؛ They had indeed once deſign'd to have made this a very agreeable Place . There was a Cam nal, Parterres, Arbours, &c. and there ftill re« mains an Alley of Citron and Orange-Trees, which is really very pleaſant. ThisSignior Conte puts me in mind of a Story, which I have read I don't know where. They ſay that Charles the Fifth being at Vicenza, a great number of Gentlemen and richeſt Bur geſſes of that Place,preſſed him very earneſtly to grant them the Title of Counts : The Em peror refus’d at firſt, but at laſt, to get rid of theſe troubleſome People, ſaid aloud, Well, well, I make you all Counts , botb the City and Suburbs. Since that time, ſay they here, nothing is more common than Counts. The Way froin Vicenza to Padua is in all re ſpeas like that between Verona and Vicenza. We paſſed the Tezenza about three Quarters of an Hour from Vicenza, and the Brenta an Hour from Padua. I remember that the Antiquaries do not agree , concerning this Brenta : Some pretend that ' tis the Timavus; and others, that it is one of the Medoacus's. The firſt Opinion ſeems leaſt probable, becauſe of the River Timavus, whichpaſſes by Friuli, and is probably the true one. But let us leave them to decide their Con troverfies, and go to Padua. If Vol. I. 10 ITALY 209 4 If my Deſign was to ſay here what Padua has PADUA, been , I could draw a very fine Picture of it ; call'd the not indeed without danger ofRomancing ſome. Learned. times, if I ſhould boldly affirm all that has been was fubje. Eted toche Vea written of it, by the moſt ancient Authors : For necians in the Example, I own, I do by no means believe that rear 1406 . this City has ever been able to provide a hundred in 1519, 124 and twenty thouſand fighting Men, as Strabo, and pulled down the Suburbs , in others have plainly written : But however it which were10 be, what I have to ſay at this time concerning Morafteries, Padua , is , that it ſeems poor, and very thinly Churches, peopl'd : That it appearswith an Air altogether and 3000 neglected , and fad to theEyesof Strangers up-Houſes ; Jays on their Entrance into it : this is very ſure. Schraderus. However, I will not contradi& thoſe who ſay they think it a fine City ; without doubt, in compariſon of abundance of others, that I for bear mentioning, for fear of angring the good People that dwell in ' em, one may chink it ſo . But let us turn the Tables, and compare Padua, I will not ſay with Paris, London, Amſterdam , or Life ; but with a Hundred others I know , and Padua will certainly , as I have already ſaid ,make but afád Figure, if we conſider it in the Whole : For I don't deny it has ſome fine Buildings, both Publick and Private . The Gardens of Papa Fava are very delightful , as alſo ſeveral others. It is ſituated in a good Country *. It has alſo its * Bologna is? Univerſity, in which, there are ſome Faces not Grafa ; -- to be ridiculd. It has its Antiquities, its Ca- guafta; ma, Padour lo binets, and I queſtion not , very good Com pala. pany ; beſides other Things, that make one take Pleaſure in it, when once one is throughly ac quainted with it;; and 'tis ſo far from being de ſpis’d upon the Account of its Fall and Declen fion , that perhaps one. loves it the better for it : 'Tis ſeldom that we hate thoſe we once lov'd , on the Account of unfortunate Accidents that happen to 'em, but on the contrary, we picy ’ em, р and S a

210 A New Voyage Vol.I. and Compaſſion augments our Love ; whereas Pride and Oftentation , ariſing commonly from Proſperity , often raiſe Contempt and Envy alſo. I know particularly a little Country ,Maſter of it felf, whoſe City was formerly, andeveninmy Time, a charming Place to live in. All its Splen dor conſiſted in the Plainneſs,Conveniency, and Liberty of Life : Without Riches, or Want ; with out Dignities, and without Slavery ; they liv'd happily and were ſenſible of that Felicity. Their Harveſts , their Vintages, their fine Lake, and their good Paſtures, with the Induſtry of their Artiſans ; all theſe things afforded not only what was ſufficient for the Neceſſaries , but alſo for the moft folid Pleaſures of this Life . They ſpent it in tranquillity, free from great Cares, and from great Dangers in their little Houſes more or leſs pretty, with plain Furnitures, and modeft Habits. In good Reputation , and well liked by all, they were well beloved by every one in their fimple and ſweet Condition. The World admir'd their true Happineſs, without envying them , but offering Vows for their Proſperity ; Never ſpeaking of ' em, but in Praiſe and Blef fings ; intereſting themſelves in every thing that concerned them . But, has a certain Reverſe of unexpected Wealth caus'd an Alteration between 'em ? Have they aſſum'd certain new manners of Opulent Men ? Of ſix or ſeven Houſes inhabited by ſix or ſeven common Families, have they made a Palace for one Man, without remembring that a Propor tion ought to be obſerved, between the Citizens and the Republick ? The Chief-Men of 'em have they Deſpiſed the Others ? Licentiouſneſs and Voluptuouſneſs mix'd with Ambition have they crept together among ' em ? the Love that the World had for ' em is not at all encreas'd ; nei ther Vol. 1. to ITALY. ther have they acquir'd any new Eſteem that may be look'd on as the Fruit of their Proſpe rity. But rather on the contrary , they have oc cafion's Jealouſie, and drawn upon themſelves the diſagreeable Reflections of ſeveral Perſons, without being a Jot happier than they were before : ' Tis to be hop'd then , they will make a right Uſe of this favourable Misfortune that has lately happen'd to ' em , and that like true Philoſophers , they will return to their former ſimple and peaceable State. Let us then conclude in favour of Padua that one may love and be pleas'd with it, tho ' 'tis neither rich nor handſome : I could have told you this in one word, but you know what occaſion'd this ſmall Amplification. The Circuit of this City is conſiderable, but there are large Places in it'that are void of Build ings , and many Houſes void of Inhabitants. The ancient Padua hath ftill retain'd its firſt Walls ; but ſince it fell into the Hands of the Venetians, they have taken in the Suburbs, and encompaſs'd the whole with a new Sort of Fortification , which was never good, and is at preſent extreamly decay'd . There are Porches or Piazza's, almoſt through- of latégithe ita out the whole City , which are very conve- niverſity of nient to ſhelter People from Rain , but other-Padua bat been in jo poor wiſe make the Streets narrow and dark , and a Condation , give Opportunity for thoſe frequent Robberies and the Name and Murders, which they call at Padua, the Qui-ber of the Six denti is become va- lì ? What can be more ſtrange , than that the Scholars of Padua ſhould be privileg'd to the Qui-va.lt So finall, that knock down thoſe whom they meet, and 10 is notmuch ts break Legsand Arms, without any Hope of Re- be fear’d. dreſs ? For, as ſoon as Night comes on , they arm themſelves, and going out in Companies, hide themſelves between the Pillars of the Porobiesz 3 P2 2 1 2 A New Voyage Vol. I. Oxe of the Porches; and while the poor Paſſenger is ftruck principal wich Terror at the Hearing of the Queſtion , Lamps in St. Anthony's Qui-va- lì ? without perceiving who makes it ; Cbappel was another at the ſame time cries, Qui- va -là ? ſo excreted by way without being able to go either forward or back oftheFixe Gentlemen , from ward , the unhappy Wretch muſt periſh be of th:Qui-va- tween the Qui-- valà , and the Qvi- va -lì : of si ? for killing theſe Sparks make but a Sport. This is what they & Mswix the call the Qui- va - lì of Padua. Entry of she Church. It often happens, that theſe Scholars kill un known Perſons, or ſome ofthemſelves, meeriy to maintain their pretended Privilege. ' Tis true, theſe Diſorders are not daily committed , for People keep themſelves as cloſe as they can out of harm's way. But it may be ſaid, without ex aggeration, that not a Month paſſeth, in which 1 faz ece ao two or three ſuch Accidents do not happen. Not 82 : * here (ir but that this unbridled Licenſe mightnot be ea mere infolent fily reſtrain’d ; but Venice, which infifts on the cies have been refining of her Politicks, is willing that Padua feldon pretti- ſhou'd be over- aw'd by this Patrolle, which coſts lcd for some them Nothing , and has other Uſes. I had Yeſterday a long Diſcourſe with ſome Perſons, who believe that Padua was formerly a Sea Port, both becauſe the Ancients ſpeak of it, as a very rich Place, and becauſe when they dig Wells and Foundations of Houſes , they find in divers places Anchors and Mafts. I know not whe ther this Opinion will ſeem reaſonable to you ; but ſince Hiſtory has given us no Account ofit , I ſhould rather have recourſe to a more eaſie Way, to explain how Veſſels came up to Padua , which is , that there was formerly ſome large Canal having Conimunication with the Sea. They affirm alſo, that Padua was built by An tenor , they ſhow a great Tomb or Sarcopbagus, in which they have placed the pretended Bones of this old Trojan, and it is commonly called Antinor's 1712 ) Obat Years. Vol. I. to ITALY 213

gravely, bat ' Antenor's Tomb ; but this Tradition is not very certain . It cannot indeed be denied , if we are oblig'd to give credit to ſo many ancient Au thors, that "* Antenorcame into this Country ; ** seS'e the first And ' tis no leſs certain , according to theſe old book on the of Writers, that he built a City which was called Æneids. Patavium . But the Queſtion is , whether this Titus Livius, Padua be the Patavium of Antenor ; for tho’this Marrial,Silius Icalicus , doc, Opinion is not improbable , yet thereare Argu- Mellila Cor ments againſt it, as well as for it. vinus faith, That i ho Arms of Troy were placed by Antenor in the Temple of Padua ; und that it was a Sow in a Field Or. 'Twou'd be needleſs to beſtom a Refidion on ſo ridiculou a Story, ſince the Uje of Escutocons, or Coats of Arms, was not effablabd wbove 600 Years ago. As for the † Tomb it ſignifies Nothing. It is t Good Laffels about Four bundred and odd Years, ſince thoſe tells us, very who were working on the Foundations of an be doubis whe. Hoſpital, dug up a Leaden -Coffin , near which iber the Epi they found a Sword. The Coffin had no In- taplo was writ ſcription, and upon the Sword were ſome Leonininix Ante not's Time , Verſes in barbarousLatin. Judge , I pray you, bisaufe’zis whether this may not as well agree with the written in Trojan Horſe, as with Antenor. In the mean time, Gothick Ch.s : & the immoderate Love which ſome People have racters : a V. ry good Reason for every thing that bears fome Stamp of Anti- indeed. quity ,made ' em give out,thatthey had found the * Lupatus de Tomb of Antenor. A certain Man callid * Lyforid that his patus, who was then a Magiſtrate , and a ManTurub faove'd be of ſome Learning, had alſo his Reaſons, or Pre - plac'd by that judices,in favour oftheſe Bones; and ſome Years of his dear Antenor after, put them in that renownedTomb, which And the swe they call at this Day the Tomb of Antenor, and sepulcbres are which is to be ſeen at the entrance of St Lax- fill in the rence's - ſtreer. He cauſed four Verſes to be En fame Place, graved on it, which, you may be ſure, are in Gosbick Characters: You will perhaps be pleas? d . to ſee ' em exa & ly as they are written. P3 C. In 214 A New Voyage Vol . I. C. Inclitus. Antenor. Patriamvox niſa quietem, Tranſtulithucenetum Dardanidumq; fugas. Expulit Euganeos Patavina condidit Urbem . Quem tenet bic bumili māmore ceſa domus. All that is told at large by Lorenzo Pignoria in his Origini di Padua. Onemayalſo ſee Guil.Ongarelloin his Chronicles. Angelo Pórtenari, Felicita di Padua . Sertorius Urſatus, Monumenta Pataviaa. Sicco Po lentonus. Jaq. Cavacio. Tomaſın . Blondus. Merula, & c. You may obſerye that there is a C. at the be ginning of the firſt Verſe . Inclitus is written without a r. Above the e in Antenor there is an Abbreviation inſtead of another n. Enetum is written without an H. Theque in Dardanidumq; is abbreviated. The Abbreviation above laſt a in Patavina denotes that there ſhou'd be an m ; and there is another above the a in mamore which ſtands inſtead of an r. Cela is written with a fim ple e ; and the four Verſesare in Capital Letters.

• Almoſt almaff all Tis impoflible, in my Opinion, to find out the the LatinAu- Senſe of the firſtof ' em. I forgot to tell you, that ibors writeln.

clycus with a the three firft Letters of condidit are abridg'd into y ; and it one Character. There are no Points or Stops but ought to be what I have mark'd ; and ſome of the Words are written fo, if join'd together. The Exadneſs with which I Yain, that 'tis tranſcrib'd theſe Verſes, may be look'd upon asaş deriv'd frosn a tacite Reflection on ſeveral Authors , who Maulós. But have cited ' em fallly, and may alſo ſerve to fince it may corre& the Account I* gave my ſelf of ' em, in with equal probability be the firſt Edition of this Book, Suppes'd to some from tacles, boob theſe words being us'd in the ſame fence by Greek Air s hors, I ſee no realon why Inclirus may not be written without a y. Having ſince that time confider'd this Epitaph more attentively, I found that ikere was neither Patriæ nor cçla, bit Patria and ceſa, without either æ or ç. Plis true, I perceiv'd that ſome Perſon had been endeavouring to alter theſe two Liiters, by adding a falt firoke to each of ' em ; and 'ewas that which occata nad myMifuke ; but thefs Stratehes do net belong ia the Original, pid ang ginen porns Other The > it were care Vol. I. to ITALY 215 The Church of St. † Anthony is very large, and + They call him full of fine Pieces, both of Sculpture and Pain - St.Anthony ting. There are many magnificent Tombs in it , of Padua, bem among which we obſerv'd * that of Alexander cauſe he died Contarini, Admiral of the Republick, and Pro and was buria ed there , but curator of St. Mark ; and that of Count Horatio he was a Sicco, who was killed at Vienna in the laſt Siege. Franciſcan of I tranſcrib'd the following Epitaph , becauſe ' tis Lisbon , and Hiſtorical, and was made upon one of your with St. Fran Contemporary Countrymen. It has no Date. cis of Alliſe, See Sponde, Bellarmin , Trithemius, &c. * Erected in the Year 1555. by Auguſtin Zocc. 2 ! 가 Anglia quem genuit, fueratq; habitura Patronum | Cortoneum celfa hæc continet Arca Ducem. Credita cauſa necis Regni affectata cupido. :: Regine optatum tunc quoque connubium .. Cui Regni Proceres non conſenſere, Philippo Reginam Regi jungere pofe rati. Europam unde fuit Juveniperagrare neceſſe,, Ex quo morsmiſero contigit ante diem , Anglia ſiplorat, defuncto Principe tanto, Nil mirum, Domino deficit illa pio. Sed jam Cortoneus Cælo fruiturg ; Beatis ; Cum doleant Angli, cum fine fine gemant. Cortonei Probitas, igitur, Præftantia , Nomen , Dum ftabit boc Templum , vivida ſemper erunt, Angliaq; hinc etiam ftabit , ftabuntq; Britanni : Conjugii optati fama perennis erit. Improba Naluræ leges Libitinia * reſcindens Ex æquo Juvenes præcipitatq; Senes, The Lord Courtney , of the Ancient Houſe of Cour tenay. There are ſtill ſeveral Gentlemen of that Name in England,whic ther their Ans 'eſtors come with Wil liam the Cone queror.

• Syllaba

longa. There cannot be finer Painting in Freſco, than that of the Chappel of St. Felix : it was done by the famous Giotto, who excelled in that Sort of + Party foot Work. But that which is the moſt conſiderable long , and in this Church is the + Chappel of St. Anthony, broad . Aug. the great Protector of Padua; whom , by way Pore. Twenty five 9 P4 216 A New Voyage Vol. I. of eminency they call il Santo. His Body lies under che Altar, which is inrich'd with precious Things. They ſay that the Bones of the Saint caſt forth a very fweet Odour : thoſe who have the Curioſity to ſmell them, go behind the Al tar to a certain Part which is not well joined, and where onemight eaſily thruſt in ſome Bal ſam , or ſuch like odoriferous Subſtance : for there are no ſort of Tricks, the Monks are not capable of playing , eſpecially in this country. The whole Chappel is lined with Ballo Relievo's, of white Marble , in which are repreſented the principal Miracles of St. Anthony. Almoſt the whole Work was done by Tullius Lombardus, Hie Tonymo Campagna, and Sanſovin. There are alſo Nine and thirty large filver Lamps, which burn Night and Day round the Altar. I will not trou ble you with that multitude of Stories , which thoſe who hew this Chappel, are wont to relate concerning their Saint. From this Church we went to that of St. Ju ftina, which is very large and beautiful, though it be far from the Perfection to which they de ſign to bring it. ' Tis pav'd with ſquare Pieces of Marble, red, black, and white ; the Roof of the great. Navo or Body of the Church hath ſeven Domes , which give it both Light and Ornament. There are alſo two Domes, on the Roof of each Arm of the Croſs. Beſides the great . Altar, which is a ſtately Work, there are Twenty four others of fine Marble. And where as the Church of St. Anthony is full of Monu. ments, they will not ſuffer any in this : There * Since that is * only one Inſcription , which ſays, That the Time they have Church wasbuilt at the only Charge of the Con put up three vent. The † Baſſo relievo of the Benches in the or four other Inſcriptions which relate wholly to St.Juſtina. † This Work was perform'd in 22 Years , by a Frenchman called Ricard, Choir 19.4 . Vol. I. to ITALY 217 JV Vi ho hili . 1 LIV 3 HA Gin Polar Stars bid ahh Choir is admirable, and the Deſign is very fine in all Reſpects. It repreſents the Prophecies of the Old Teſtament, relating to Chriſt, with their Accompliſhment in the New . The Martyrdom of St. Juſtina, which is over the great Altar, was done by Paul Veroneſe. I will not undertake to give you a particular + See Baron . Deſcription of this Church. The Monaſtery is An.7 6 , and alſo very large: it has fix Cloyſters, and ſeveral 730. Courts and Gardens. I will not trouble you with It the ſame , an Accountof the Image of the Virgin, which time one of the + flew from Conftantinople when it was taken by it ſelf for an the Turks : Nor will I add any thing concern ger (G.T.. hi ing the Bodies of the Saints or the other Relicks, Voffius de I of which this Church is full; for theſe Stories See all. Ovid ,, wou'd engage me in endleſs Digreſſions. Fall . L. 4. V. The large open Place which is near to it, was 167,& c. about formerly call’d the Field of Mars. I cannot ima- Electra, one of the Pleyades. gine why People, who are ſo fond of honou----Pudore isa rable Titles, have robb’d it of its ancient Name, ter. to call it fimply, ll Prato della valle, the Meadow !! There is a of the Valley. little Space in the midſt of this place call'd and diftinguished by the Name of Campo Santo ; becauſe , as Pois reported, feveral Martyrs fufferd Death in it heretofore.

• The Hall of the Town Houſe is very large * 256 Foot

and dark ; it is One hundred and ten common Pa long, and 86 ces long ,and Forty broad ; and there are ſeveral broad ,Angelo Monuments in it,that were erected for illuſtrious Portenari. Perſons. Since Padua had che happy chance to re- the figureof a deem its Founder out of the Obſcurity in which Rhomboides, he had lain for near Three thouſand Years : It and is not ſup was but juſt alſo, that the firſt unknown Tomb ported by any Pillars, Peter they met withal in this City, ſhould ſerve to ho Aponus, who nour the Memory of Titus Livius , the famous was the Ar Hiſtorian who was born there, or there about. chitect, and a famous Necro . mancer , fays Cardan, adorn'd the Roof with Conſtellations, and Aſtronomical Fie gures, which are fill remaining . The This Hal has 218 & New Voyage Vol. I.

• The Diſcovery of this pretended Tomb, in the Year 1413 , was attended with the univerſal

joy and acclamation of the People. There was found in the Gardens of St. Juſtina, a Coffin of Lead, fix Foot long, not unlike that of Ante nor ; and they preſently concluded, that it was the Coffin of Titus Livius, ( Livii mox clamatur, ) becauſe that Hiſtorian was a Prieſt of Concord , and the Convent of the Benediktines of St. Fufti na, is built on the Ruines of a Temple, which was of old conſecrated to that Goddeſs. When the Noiſe of this Diſcovery was ſpread abroad, all the City ran thither, with inexpreſſible Tranſ ports of Joy and Zeal : Commigrare ad illum vidif ſes omnes ipfi Lanii, Sutoreſque. The Peo ple touch'd their Beads on the Shrine of the ſup pos'd Titus Livius, as if he had been ſome new Saint. Tum Memorid, † tum Reverentid Dentes furana tur ; quamobrem, ſerò licet,ſub claveſecretiore claudun tur. Hunc quafi Deum pene colebant, & ne iftis ofſibus ſi diutiùsfupereſent ad Gentilitia Populus revocaretur, conſuluit, qui Abbatis tenebat vices, ea olla combu The whole Story, with all its Particulars, at large, is related in a long Letter written in Latin by Sicco Polentonus, an Eye- wit .. neſs of it , to the Learned Nic. Florentin , dated the firſt of Nov. 1414. and this whole Letter was publiſh'd by the curious and lear . ned Lawrence Pignoria , in his Origini di Padua. Page 124. Polentonus was then Chancellor of Padua. + Quidam ex oſſibus fragmenta diripiebant : id , quafi ad emu. lationem Reliquiarum San & torum Dei impiè fa & tum . (Jac. Cavacius cited by Sertorius Urſatus in his Monumenta Patavina, Lib. 1 . Sect. 1. Page 29. ) This Cavacius relates the fame Things as Polentonus ( whom he calls Xico, nd nor Sisco. ) NB. thac there were ſome Perſons, tho' but a ſmall Number of ' em, that diſapprov'd of all theſe Idolatries and Fooleries ; wit neſs the Abbot's Brother, who would have burnt it all . And there were ſays the ſame good Polentonus, fome Calumniators, that durft ſay, they could prove by Anatomy, theſe Bones were the Bones ofa Woman : but they were forcid to yield to the Mulcicude. rere & Vol. I. to ITALY. 219 Yere ; & in pulverem ventis dare. - Vt confluentium Multitudinem refrænaret, furibuſque occaſionem ob ſtrueret, voluit Zacharias ( Trivifanus Prator) pro prio in penetrali poni. Mauſolæum decens fabrican dum , omnes univocè dicunt, du contribuere pollicetur quiſque. But many private Perſons offer'd to be at all the Charge of that Mauſolæum , provid ed they might erect it in their own Houſe. Am plifſimi Viri,Cives optimi, Henricus Miles, & Petrus - Fratres Scroffegni pro liberalitate ſua offerebant ſe om nem impenfam fačturos, ſi ad domumſuam opus hoc fabricari daretur. Idem obtulit Ludovicus Buzzaca rinus vir utique clariſs. literatiſs. & ditiſs. at ne mo impetrare id potuit.- Every one rejoyc'd, that he was born in that happy Age, when this pre cious Treaſure was diſcover'd Rem veluti oblatam Divinitus efferunt. Quique hoc contigile hac Ætate maximè collætantur. In fine, Titus Livius, after he had efcap'd being torn to pieces by a People wonderfully fond of Relicks, was in clos'd in a Wooden -Coffin , that he might be the more eaſily carry'd. Theyloaded it with Branch es of Lawrel( ramuſculis Lauri ſuperfixis, ) and the moſt conſiderable Perſons in the City, * carried * What was it ad Aulam , &c. ( Sicco Polentorus himſelf was carried in Pre one of the Bearers . ) The Monument, which is ceſſion ( per frequentiora now to be ſeen , was erected in the great Hall of the Palace of Juſtice ; and the following In - Jays Cavacio ) ſcription was afterwards added, it having been was only the found, they ſay, in the Neighbourhood of the Honorarywood , Place, where the Temple of Concord formerly wasempty ; en -Coffin which Atood . for the Bones remain'd in the Church of St. Juſtina, till the Year 1547, as Sertorius Urfatus has written in his Monumenta Pacavina. Monumentum verò Livii quod in D. Juſtinæ Æde conſervabaturAnno, 1547 , in Prætorium unà cum ipfius olibus fựit tranſlatum , ubi noftrâ Æcare conſpicicur. V F Urbis loca, 11 1 220 A New Voyage Vol. I. VF T. LIVIUS LIVIAE T. F. QVARTA E L. HALYS CONCORDIALIS PAT AVI SIBI ET SVIS OMNIBVS.

• This Head At the Top of this Monument there is atMar

2015 in the ble-Head , which Orfatus fays, was given by A poffefion of Alexander lexander Baſſano of Padua, to ſupply the Place of Ballan , a Gen- that of Titus Livius. The Braſs Statue, on the sleman of Pa- right Hand in a Nich, holding a Branch and a dua. SomeAn; Globe, repreſents ( if I am not miſtaken ) Erer Sigvaries think isis the Head nity. The other Statue on the Left, is Minerva. of Lentulus Under the firſt of theſe Statues, is the Tyber ; un Marcellinus. der the fecond, the Medoacus ; and between theſe two Rivers the She- Wolf Suckling the two fa mous Twins. In the middle ofall , is the In ſcription I have juſt now mentioned. V F T. LIVIVS, &c. and underneath a tender Mark of the Zeal of the Gentlemen of Padua, for the BEATO Titus Livius, the Glory of their City, in thefe Words : ( by Lazarus Bonami, politiarum Li terarum Profeſſor in Gymn. Patav. ) Oſſa, tuumque Caput, Cives, Tibi, Maxime LIVI Prompto animo hic omnes compoſuere tui Tu, Famam æternam Romæ, Patriæque dedifti ; Huic Oriens, illi, fortia Fa&ta canens. At tibi dat Patria béc, darfi majora liceret Hoc totus ftares aureus ipfe loce. T. Vol. 1. to ITALY. T. LIVIU S. QUARTO IMPERII TIBERII CAESARIS Α Ν Νο. VITA EXCESSIT. ÆTATIS VERO SUE LXXVT. There are other In /criptions that I could add in the Supplement, The Bones, the Head, and the Inſcription belong to Titus Livius, and to the naked Truth , exactly as it is true that Romulus and Remus have ſucked a She-Wolf : all fabulous Things. But, pray, conſider the Conduct of theſe People with their Pagan Livius, whoſe Bones they kept 124 Years in a Church, with a religious Venerati on ; whilft according to the Laws of their Inqui ſition of Faith, they cruelly burn poor Chriſti ans, whofe Hope, and Foundation of Religion are the ſame as theirs , Moreover we muſt obſerve, that Titus Livius was not properly of Padua : ſome indeed pretend he was born at Teolo ; ( Titulum ) but Portenari, UN garellus, Pignoria , Orſato, Salomonius, and other good Authors maintain ' twas at Epono, ( Aporum ,) five Miles from Padua. To leave the Fables and Incertainties of Anti quity, and come to ſomething that is new and real : I ſhall give you an account of another Monument, which we ſaw in the ſame Hall, and which is worthy of Obſervation. Some have exalted Suſanna above Lucretia, but it may be juſtly ſaid, that the 'Marchioneſs d' Obizzi, ſurpaſſed Suſanna and Lucretia both ; ſince when ſhe ſaw Death preſent before her , ſhe reſolv'd to ſuffer it couragiouſly, racher than to ſuffer her Chaſtity to be violated. A Gentleman of Padua, was poſſionately in love with this young and 222 A New Voyage Vol. and beautiful Lady, and found an Opportunity to get into her Chamber when ſhe was in Bed, in the Abſence of the Marqueſs ď Obizzi her Husband. 'Tis probable that he try'd the ſofteſt and moſt gentle Ways, before he proceeded to acts of Violence. But at laſt, when he ſaw he could not prevail , his Love turned to Fury, and he was ſo tranſported with rage, that he ftabbed this Vertuous Lady. Here is the Inſcription : Venerare, Pudicitiæ Simulachrum & Victimam , Lucretiam de * Dondis ab Horologio Pyanea de Obiz zonibus, Orciani Marchionis Uxorem . Hæc inter noctis tenebras, maritales aſſerens tædas, furiales re centis Tarquinii faces, cafto cruore extinxit. Sicque * Tis a Noble Romanam Lucretiam , intemerati tori gloriâ vincit. Family at Ve Tantæ ſuæ Heroinæ generoſis Manibus hanc dicavit A nice. Tis faidyam Civitas Patavina. Decreto. Die 31. Decemb. ' that they have added ab Ho. Anni 1661. rologio ben Coule one of their Predeceſſors, was the contriver of that great curious Clock that is to be ſeen at Padua.

• 1712.

This is the Inſcription , juſt as I ſaw and tran ſcrib'd it , in the great Hall at Padua, the ſeventh of December, 1687. But * now, and a great while after that, as I am making ſome Corrections and Additions to the former Editions of this Book, I found among my Papers, a different Copy of the ſame Inſcription ; the Author of which, is ſaid to be Dom Leon Matina, Abbor of Mont-Caſſin, and Profeſſor of Divinity at Padua in 1674. I am very much miſtaken if I have not found this Honorary Epitaph in the Library at Wolfenbutel, near that of the Celebrated Hea lena Cornaro (( Helena Lucretia Cornelia Piſcopia .) However it be, I will add it here , to the former. ز Venerare , Vol. I. to I TAL Y. 223 Venerare, Hofpes, Pudicitiæ Simulacrum ela Vietimam , Cui banc Aram Patavini erexere Proceres. LUCRETIAM , ſcilicet, DE DONDIS AB HOROLOGIO Quæ Latinam Lucretiam intemerati Thori Gloria vicit. Hæc, inter Noctis tenebras Maritales aſſeruit Tedas, Et furiales recentis Tarquinii faces caſto cruore extinxit. Per Januas faucii oris, juguli, pectoriſque, Impiá Novaculâ referatas, Candidam efflavit Animam . Tam fortis Heroine Quam Numen Pio ANEA ex ORIZZONIBUS, Orciani Dynaſt& Connubio junxit , Gloriofis Manibus, Patria Lacbrymis, Italia Atramento Parentavit. Anno M. DC. LXXII. You will doubtleſs commend the Paduans, for taking care to eternize the Memory of ſo rare a Virtue, that met with ſuch a barbarous Treat ment : And perhaps your Curioſity will prompt you to defire the Continuation of the Story. When the Marchioneſs was furpriz'd in her Bed, her only Son , about five Years old , was with her ; but the Murderer having carried him mato a Neighbouring Chamber, before he perpe trated his horrid Villany, the Child could not ſee all that paſſed . The thing being brought to light, theſaid Murderer, was taken into Cuſtody upon Suſpicion . It was known that he had an Inclination to the Marchioners : the Child gave ſome Information ; fome Neighbours af firm'd , they had ſeen the Gentleman in chac Part of the City : they found a Button of his fleeve on the Bed, fellow to that which he ſtill wore » 224 A New Voyage Vol. I. 14 VIVI Call lp 2 It 120 wore ; and theſe Things were ſtrong Preſump tions of his Guilt. They, then, puthim to the Torture, both ordinary and extraordinary, but he ftill denied the Fac ; and after fifteen Years Impriſonment, his Friends, by their importu nity , faved his Life, and even , as I ſuppoſe, obtained his Liberty , which yet he enjoyed not long ; for ſome Months after his Delive. rance, the young Marqueſs, which was the Child I ſpoke of, ſhot him with a Piſtol in the Head, and ſo revenged the Death of his Mother. He is at preſent in Germany, in the Emperor's Service. There are in this City ſeveral Cabinets of Curioſities, and ſome skilful Antiquaries. But it muſt be acknowledg’d, that Mr. Patin, Pro feffor of Phyſick, excels all the Criticks in the World , in explaining ſuch Intricacies Never any Man was Maſter of a truer and more judicious Taſte for theſe Curioſities ; of a more extenſive Knowledge in all other re ſpects about Antiquity ; or of a more obliging and communicative Temper. ' Twou'd be unreaſonable to leave Padua, without giving you ſome account of the Uni verſity ; tho' it muſt be acknowledg'd, that ' tis at preſent in a very mean Condition. Of Teri Colleges, there are Nine employd in o The Ox ther Uſes : but * that which remains is a pret College, lo called, because ty fine Building. There is nothing more re it ftands in a quir'd to become a Divine here, than to learn Place where by rote thoſe wretched Schoolmen whoſe Do skere wasfor. árine is as oppoſite to true Divinity , as Dark merly an Inn which had on neſs is to Light. The pretended Philoſophy of Ox for the Ariſtotle is that with which they are only acquain Sign. ' Tis allo calld, The Publick Schools. There are Eleven Auditories in it, and a fine Anse somical theater. The Univerſity was formerly as Trevife . ted. Vol. I. to ITALY 225 ted. And he that has furnith'd himſelf with a ſuf ficient Stock of Sentences out of Hippocrates and Galen, and is able to quote 'em in their own Language, withoat forgetting the Book, Chap ter, or Paragraph, paſſes, without diſpute, for a learned and expert Phyſician. There are about Eight hundred Fews in the City, according to their own Computation. They have three Synagogues. The Ghetto has three Doors, and over the principal Door there is an Inſcription which begins thus, Ne Populo Caleftis Regni Hæredi uſus cum exhærede ellet, &c. The Amphitheater of Padua was larger than that of Verona ; but there remains nothing of it but miſerable Ruines. Lawrence Pignoria gives a ſort of a Plan of it ; according to which ' tis 710 Foot long, including the Thickneſs of the Walls, and the reſt of the Building. I muſt fur ther tell you, before I end my Letter, that I wentlately into the Tennis-Court, and was fur priz'd to find the Walls white, and the Balls black, and Rackets as large as Sievés ; ' tis the Cuſtom of this Country. I am , SIR, Padua, Dec. 7 . 1687. + Tour, & c . LET 226 A New Voyage Vol.1. ir LET TER XVI. div PI IT Co IN HV VI Com 1 lea SIR, T was an extraordinary ſatisfaction to me to meet with your Letter in this place ;j for beſides the Pleaſure I had to learn good News of you ; you have doneme a fingular kindneſs, in propoſing Queſtions to me, about thoſe Things concerning which you deſire to be moft particu larly inform'd. Aſſure your ſelf, Sir, my beſt endeavours ſhall not be wanting to anfwer your Demands exactly : I entreat you to continue the fame Method hereafter , that I may be bet ter enabl’d to ſend you ſuch Accounts as may be acceptable to your ſelf, and thoſe of our Friends, to whom you communicate them. You deſire me to tell you fincerely , whether our preſent Travels be really pleaſant to us ; or at leaſt, whether the Pleaſure we take in them be not over-balanced by the Trouble which they give us. I am not at all ſurpriſed that you ſhould entertain ſuch a Doubt of it ; for tho' we are neither among the Savages of America, nor in the Defarts of Arabia , wehave ſometimes the Mortification to meet with ſome Difficulties. The Weather is very rough ; the Way of Travel ling ordinarily unpleaſant, and the Days ſo ſhort, that we get late in at Night, and riſe very early : We oftentimes meet with hard Lodging , and worſe Diet ; and beſides, Travellers are certainly expoſed to many Dangers. Nevertheleſs, with a good ſtock of Health, Money, Chearfulneſs, and Patience, we have ſurmounted theſe Difficul TV4 i ties, Vol. I. to ITALY. 227 !N 1 : 1552 cf. ties, even almoſt without taking notice of them. This I ſay, with Time, Men take new Cuftoms, and find Remedies to many Evils. We take ſome Days of reſt when we think we want it. The variety and perpetual Novelty of Objects recre ate the Spirits as well as the Eyes. A little wea rineſs ſupplies all the defects of aBed, and Ex erciſe harpens our Appetites : (Offa, e torus ber baceus, famis & laboris dulciſſimæ medelæ ſunt.) With good Furrs we defended our ſelves againſt the Cold, in ſpite of all the Froſts and Snows of the Alps : And to conclude, without inſiſting upon thoſe general Reaſons, which Tender Travels profitable and pleaſant, I can aſſure you, that the tendereſt and moſt delicate Perſons in our Company, have hitherto eaſily overcome all thoſe Obſtacles, which might have baalk'd our Pleaſure and Satisfaction . Our ſtay at Venice will perfectly recruit us ; and when we ihall pro ceed on our Travels, theSweetneſs of the Spring will inſenſibly begin to ſucceed the Rigours of the Winter. I have let a whole Month paſs without wri - VENICE, ting to you, ſince we arrived in this City, that I might have time and opportunity to obſerve every thing that is remarkable ; and to reflect ac leiſure upon what I ſee, or hear. I will tell you nothing but what I have ſeen my ſelf, or of which I have had particular Information. You are in the right to conclude, that I will not un dertake to give you a Deſcription of Venice ; that would be a Work too tedious, and foreign to my Deſign. Yet, I will not affect to tell you only ſuch new and ſingular Things which were never mention'd by any other. Being willing to be ignorant of what others have written ;i I will ſpeak as an Eye-witneſs, and repreſent to you , as naturally as I can, the principal part of Q 2 fuch nom

0 a Co ز che Dit het of love islom ter ecot eh, ki 20 228 Vol. i . . A New Voyage ſuch Things as I ſhall judge worthy of Obſerva tion , without taking any notice of what others have ſaid. You will perceive, that I have chief ly taken care to anſwer all particular Queſtions you have asked me : If you have forgotten any thing, you may acquaint me with it in your next Letter . Venice is ſo ſingular a Place , and ſo extraordi nary in all reſpects, that I reſolv’d to conſider it with care : I fill my Memorials with all ſorts of Things ; and I hope I ſhall be able to give a ſa tisfactory Anſwer to moſt of your Queſtions. But I muſt advertiſe you of two Things, before I put an end to this little Preface. The firſt is , that I reſerve ſome particular Obſervations , to be com municated to you in a more proper Time: The other is, that I will not oblige my ſelf to any order in my Remarks, but relate Things as I chanc'd to meet with them, as I have already intimated to you in another place. We parted from Padua on the Twentieth of the laſt Month, and came hither betimes that Evening. There are many good Villages on the Way, and a great many Houſes ofPleaſure, which belong to noble Venetians, and were con triv'd , for the moſt part of 'em, by Palladio. Our Augsburg Vetturino brought us to Meftré, which is a Jittle Town on the Bank of the Lagunes,five Miles from Venice. I have read ſomewhere in Mezeray's Hiſtory, that the Adriatick -Sea was frozen in the * Oshers say, Year * 860, and that they went in a Coach from the main Land to Venice. As for us, we were ob lig'dto take Gondola's at Meſtré, and were about an Hour and an half on the Water. VENICE. That I maygive youa true Idea of Venice , I cal'd she Rich.muſt in the firſt place deſcribe choſe Waters in the midſt of which it is ſeated. The general Opinion of Geographers is, That Venice is built in the Sea, and in 859. Vol. I. to ITALY 229 and this in ſome meaſure is true ; nevertheleſs, it requires Explication : 'Tis certain it is not the main Sea, but drown'd Lands, yet, ſuch as were drown'd before the Building of Venice, that is at the leaſt , thirteen or fourteen hundred Years ago. The greateſt Ships fail in ſome places on thoſe Waters ; and there are Channels by which thoſe that are of no greater Burden than cwo hundred Tuns, can go up to Venice it ſelf. The principal Canals that lead from the Land See what Mr. to Venice, are thoſe of Lido, Mamaloco, and Cbio a .deSt. Didier ( As for the Canals of Fucino, Meſtré , St. Eraſmus anAuthor. particularly and of the three Gates, they are of leſs Conſidera- informid ) has tion . There are ſeveral others, but ſeldom any written about Boats, except thoſe belonging to Fiſhermen , or this, in his ofthe fame largeneſs, that venture into theſe Venice,Chap. diſcription of laſt ; Nay even the Water of the Canal call'd Fu- 1. 10 : he end cino, is at preſent ſupply'd by Sluices. The Cour- of is : and ſes of theſe Waters, and Roads, are mark'd by Chap.24.Cena long Poles thruſt into the Water at a certain di- Flux and Re cerning ibe ſtance from each other ; a very neceſſary precau- flux, & c. tion , when Waters coming from the Sea lays all the Lagunes at Level ; for the Canals are not ex actly ſtreight. Thoſe Salt Waters have a free Communication with the main Sea , by the Eb bing andFlowing Tides. The Oyſters, and o ther Shell- fiſh ſtick to the Foundations of the Houſes of Venice, and Murano, as they do to the Rocks in the middle of the Sea ; ſo that it may be ſaid in a manner, that Venice is ſeated in the Sea. Yet, as that drown ' Land was formerly a Ma riſh ; and as theſe Waters that have but licele depth ,are but a draining, or an overflowing of the ancient Sea, this Extent ofWater is only conſider ed aç Venice, as a Lake or Mariſh, and they gave it the Name of Lacuna. I obſerve, that the great eſt part of Strangers adopt this Word, every one diſguiſing it according to his own Language, Q for 3 230 A New Voyage Vol. I. for want of a fit Term to expreſs it. Lacune hath another Signification in French, which per haps is the Reaſon that they change here the into G and call it Lagunes. Tho' this be a bar barous Word, and newly invented, I muſt make uſe of it , rather than give my.ſelf the Trouble to contrive another. † They have Mills, and other Machines, to empty the Mud and Ouſe, which gather continu ally, and diſcover themſelvesin ſeveral Places, when the Sea is at the loweſt Ebb . They have turn'd the Mouth of the Brenta , and ſome other Rivers, to prevent their throwing of Mud and Sand into the Lagunes ; and that the Earth may not regain from the Sea , which would be very prejudicial to Venice,whoſe Strength andSecurity confft in its Situation. ' Tis true, that as this City is oblig’d to labour inceſſantly, to keep the Waters which environ it at a certain Depth , to prevent its being re -united to the Continent; ſo it would not be for its Advantage in every re ſpect, that theſe Waters ſhould have a great and general Depth ; becauſe while things remain in or near the ſame Pofture they are now in , it is, in a manner , impoſſible to approach to Venice, either by Sea or Land. * When Pepin , Son of 9 Charle of Thoſe that have criticis'd upon theſe Mibs, as if we were Speaking of Wind -mills, bave diſputed againf a Chimers oftheir own Imagination : Moulin in French, is us'd to expreſs all Sorts of Machines, that being mov'd by an outward Force, give a violent Impreſſion on things. Conſult the Dictionaries of the Academy, and Fureriere, upon the Word Moulin . There are ſeveral ſorts of Machines made uſe of, to throw upthe Sand and Miud, of which the Canals wou'd inſenſibly be fill'd up . Our famous Hiſtorian Mezeray, Jays poſitively that Pepin fail'd from the Port of Ravenna, and enter'. the Lake of Ve nice ; but, that for want of being informid of its depth, wuddines, and difficulty of the Rosd, his Fleet met with a ter rible Difafter in ito ( Abregé de Mezeray, dans la vie de Char. lemagne .) Vol. I. to ITALY 231 Charlemaign, King of Italy , undertook to expel the Doge Maurice , and his Son John , who was his Affociate, he, parted from Ravenna with his Fleet, imagining that he cou'd eaſily find a Paſſage thro' the Canals : but whilſt the Doge's Ships ſteer'd their Courſe through thenavigable Chanels, without meeting with any Misfortunes, Pepin's Veſſels ftruck, and ſunk in the Mud on , all Sides ; ſo that after a great Loſs, he was con ftrain'd to fly with the Remainders of his wreck'd Fleet. It is manifeft, that could this Fleet have paſſed every where with full Sails, this Expedi tion had ſucceeded better. ' Tis about three hundred and odd Years ſince the Genoeſes re ceiv'd the like Chance. I believe you do by this time fufficiently com- This Term has prehend what is meant by the Lacune di Venetia : been inconfidea Repreſent then alſo to your ſelf the City of Ve- ratly conteſted, nice, which riſes out of the midſt of theſe Wa- as if wewere ters,, withthirty or forty large Steeples,and is not the Waves freakingofof at leaſt a League and a Half diſtant from the Lake,and of a Land . ' Tis certainly a very ſurpriſing Obje &t to River as well ſee this great Ciry without any Walls, or Ram- as thoſeof the Sea : They parts,beaten on every Side with the * Waves, and ought to con yet remain on its Piles as firm as on a Rock. Sult the Diction Academy, before they venture to make ſuch a Criticiſm . By the way, i'u jay here, the Cenſurer ought to be inform’d, that neither Placencia , nor Cremona are not, to ſpeak ftri& ly, Jeated on the banks of the Po, in ſuch manner that they are waſhid by the Streams of the River, Both Placentia and Cremona are ſituated above five hundred Paces from it ; One may come in to Cremona ibrough Canal drawn from the Po.

nary of the I know that all Geographers agree, that Venice is compos’d of Seventy twoIlles ; norwill I con trovert fo generally receiv'd an Opinion : But I muſt confeſs, that I can by no means conceive what theſe 72 Ines ſhould be ; and I dare aſſure you, that this Account gives a falſe Notion of Q4 the 232 & New Voyage Vol. I. Feet ; the Ground-Plot and Situation of chis City. It would ſeem by this Deſcription, that there were Seventy two little Hills, one near the other, and that theſe little Eminencies being all inhabited , had at laſt form’d the City of Venice, which is not at all true. Venice is generally flat, and built on Piles in the Water for the moft Part. The Water waſhes the Foundations of the Houſes which it touches, to the Height of four five and the Breadth of every Canal is parallel. ' Tis true, they have made the beſt uſe of ſeve ral Spaces of a reaſonable bigneſs , which may , indeed , give occafion to believe , that there was formerly ſome Land there, but not Seventy two Ines. For the Streets , they are very narrow , and the moſt part of ' em ſeem to have been fill'd and rais’d with Mod and Rubbiſh , eſpecially along the Canals ; for it is not at all probable, that they have a Solid natural Ground. If all the Diviſions which the Canals make, were reckon'd for Iſles, we ſhould find near Two hundred, in ſtead of Seventy two. It might be farther ob ſerv'd , that the Number of theſe Ifes might be arbitrarily increas'd, and new ones made in any Place, by fixing Piles, and building Houſes upon them ; as Bridges are built by means of Baſtardeaux in the deepeſt,muddieſt, and moſt ra pid Rivers ; nay, even in the Sea alſo, ( as at Pouzzolo and Dunkirk, ) and as ſeveral Moles, in a great many Havens of the Sea ; ſo that taking the Thing after this manner, they cou'd make fuch artificial Iſlands where they pleaſe. We are not to take notice of what is com monly ſaid of the Greatneſs of Venice : fome give it Eight Miles Circuit, and others allow buc Seven. Asfor me, I aſſure you Venice is neither Eight nor Seven Miles in compaſs. They rec kon 9 Vol. I. to ITALY 233 Rowers ; ' kon Five Miles from Meſtré to Venice , which Way we came in an Hour and half, with two and we took a Turn about Venice in the ſame Space of Time, with two other Rowers, who made neither more nor leſs haſte than thoſe of Meftré : Judge then by this, of the Circuit of that City. Conſider too, that our Gondola, was frequently obliged to deſcribe a larger Compaſs, to avoid the little Capes which the City makes in ſeveral Places, and by conſequence the Line that ic made was much greater than the true Circuit of the City. Beſides, to mark the Cir cumference of a City, without conſidering its Figure, is not a competent Way to determine the Largeneſs of its Extent. One might eaſily This iswhat demonſtrate, without great help of Mathema-made Polybio ticks, that a City which is Eighi Miles in com - us lay, That , Sparta, whicho. paſs, for Example, may contain a leſs Number had bui Forty of Houſes, than another City which is only eight Stadi Four Miles, or leſs if you pleaſe. This depends ums in com . upon the Regularity or Irregularity of theFi- pals wastwice as big as gure . This Truth, which is undeniable, is the Megalopolis , Reaſon that I never will pretend to repreſent which had the Bigneſs of Cities by the Meaſure of their Fifty. [ A Stas Circuit; for that might betray you into very con- lain'd 125 dium con ; ſiderable Errors. I thall uſually content my ſelf, Geometrical with telling you, that a City is either Large, or Paces.] very Large ; Liitle, or very Little : And Iam perſuaded that ſuch Expreſlions as theſe , may give you a ſufficient Idea of its Extent. The Number of Inhabitanes is another thing which is haſtily determined , but ſeldom well examin'd. It is commonly reported at Venice, that there are two hundred thouſand Souls in the City, and ſome have advanc'd the Number to chree hundred thouſand ; but we muſt not rely upon theſe frivolous Opinions. When the Trade of Venice flouriſh'd, ' tis probable, that the Number ! 234 A New Voyage Vol.j. a ber of its Inhabitants was much greater than it is at preſent : But if we may give Credit to the Report of a perſon who hath been ſettled here for a long time, and aſſures me, that his Calcu lation is very exact ; Venice does not at preſent contain more than a Hundred and thirty or forty thouſand Souls , comprehending the Ille of Giudeca. Thoſe who pleaſe themſelves with repreſent ing Venice as a very populous City, take great care to inculcate, that it has neither Gardens, nor void Places , nor Church - yards, and that the Streets are very Narrow . But when, on the other Hand , they would deſcribe the Beauty of Venice, they magnifie its Gardens, its Places or Squares, and the Breadth and Number of its Canals . I read the other Day in a Venetian Au thor, that he counted in Venice Fifty three Pub lick Places, and Three hundred and thirty five Gardens . Thus you may ſee how variouſly things are repreſented. But to ſpeak the Truth, there is a mixture of Truth and Fallhood on both Sides. I will not deny, that there may be Fifty three Spaces, great and ſmall, to which this Author hath thought fit to give the Name of Places ; and the ſame may be ſaid of his Gar dens. But if we take a particular view of theſe Places and Gardens, we muſt conclude him to be too prodigal of ſuch honourable Titles. To ſpeak properly , there is but one place at Venice, the famous and magnificent Place of St.Mark . But let us allow him the liberty to beſtow that Name on Five or Six void Spaces more, which are neither large nor beautiful ; yet all this comes far ſhort of Fifty three places. There are alſo ſome Gardens here and there, parti cularly towards Santa Maria del Orto ; but if we ſet alide Fifteen or Twenty, or ſhould even al low ز Vol. I. to ITALY. 235 St. low Thirty , or Thirty five , to deſerve to be ſo call’d, I can poſitively averr, that the Three hundred which remain , would not , one with another, be Ten Foot ſquare ; and are not theſe very noble Gardens ? Nor is the other Account exactly true ; for beſides the Gardens and void Spaces that are in Venice, there are many Parts of it very thinly inhabited. ' Tis true, indeed, there are no Church-Yards. As for the Argu ment that is brought from the Narrowneſs of the Streets, it is a Sophiſm eaſie to be clear’d. The Streets are narrow , I confeſs, and ſo nar row , that the juftling of Elbows in the moſt frequented of 'em, is very troubleſom ; but pray, the Canals ought not to be reckon'd in ſtead of Streets ? If the Canals were fill'd and pav'd , the nartowneſs of the Streets could not be ailedg’d. I muſt tell you, ſince we are on this Sub- 1 find Mr.de ject , that all the City is ſo divided with theſe Sé. Didier has Canals and Streets, that there are but few Hou - faid ihe very Came thing. ſes where you may not go to by Water as well(Parti.ch.4 ) as by Land ; tho' every Canal is not border'd with a double Quay, as in Holland, for the Con veniency of thoſe who go on Foot. There are , indeed, * ſome of theſe ; but very often * On the Coo the Canal takes all the Space from one Row of nal Regio, and ſome so Buildings to another. The Streets are in the little Ines that are form’d by the Canals ;and there are about 450 Bridges diſpers’d anong thoſe Canals ; ſo that there is but few Parts of the City , to which one may not go either with or without a Gondola. ' Tis true, all theſe little Paſſages, and all the Turns that muſt be made to find the Bridges, make Venice a true La byrinth . But the beſt way of giving you a juſt see inthe Idea of the Plan of Venice , is to ſend you a Third Volume Draught of it , which is the moſt Exact of all thoſe that have been Drawn by me, The

thers. > 236 A New Voyage Vol. I. this Second The famous Piazza of St. Mark was the firſt Place which our Curioſity prompted us to vifit, after our Arrival at Venice ; and it is really the Soul and Glory of that City. The Church of St. Mark fronts one of the Parts of this Place, and that of St.Geminian the oppoſite ; and the Pro curaties, which are both very regular Buildings of a Sort of Marble, and finely adorn'd, border the two sides of the Place with large Portico's, which much enlarge it, and at the ſame time contribute to its Embelliſhment and Conveni ency. This place is Two hundred and fourſcore Paces long, and One hundred and ten broad. When you come from the Church of St. Gemi nian towards that of St. Mark , and inſtead of The Galley entring there, you turn to the Right hand ; the ever again Place turns alſo, forming an Equerre, ora Right Plate is al angle ; and this Second Place, whoſe Extre says keptin mity reaches to the Sea, is Two hundred and readineſs for fifty Paces long , and Fourſcore broad : This is Aition ; it lies 600 the Part which they call the Broglio. The Palace At antlyin that of the Doge is on one side of it, and the Pro Place, ibat curaties are continued on the other. All this says athand conſider'd together, makes an admirable Show , in coſe of any and may paſs for a moit noble Place. unexpected Ac. cident. ' Tis commonly ſaid, that the Galley flisves learn their Exerciſe there. The Tower of St. Mark is near the Angle of the Equerre within , and does a little ſpoil the Symmetry of the Place. This Toweris about Three hundred Foot high, comprehending the The Figure of Angel , which ſerves for the Weather- Cock. fx dagela Formerly the Top and the Angel being all over gilt ,when the Sun ſhined ,thoſe at Sea might per ceive the Tower ar Thirty Miles diſtance ; but now the Gold is gone, it ſcarcely appears. You go up to this Tower by a Stair, without Steps, like that it may be als Vol. I. 237 to ITALY. us'd at Ve that are care that at Berlin, andatGeneva, of which I remember I have diſcours’d with you . You may eaſily judge of the Beauty , Variety ,and Rarity of the Landskip which is diſcover'd from the Top of that Tower . The Broglio is the Walk of the Nobles: They TheWord Broa take up always one side of the Place ; ſometimes glio, is allo for Sun, and ſometimes for Shade, according to nice, to demore the Seaſon. Since theſe Nobles are very nume- all ſorts of Sob rous, and not eaſily to be accofted any where elſe, licitations and the Broglio is the general Rendezvous, where Vi. Negotiations fits are made, and a great deal of Buſineſs dif ry'd on by ina patch’d. No Perſon is ſuffer'd to mingle with friguing. them , onthat Side of the *Brogliowhere they " One may paſo walk, exceptin croſſing ; butthe other Side is through em in pals ' free .' This Place is ſo particularly deſtin'd, and his Way to a ſer apart for them, that when a young Nobleman notherPlace. is come to the Age requir'd for admittance into the Council, and to take the Robe, the firſt Day he puts it on , Four Noblemen or more, of his Friends, do ceremoniouſly introduce him into the Broglio ; and when any of them are banilh'd the Council, at the ſame time they are reſtrain'd from appearing ontheBroglio. It was abouttheBeginning of the Ninth Cen tury , that the Merchants of Venice brought the Body of St. Mark thither ; which, 'tis ſaid, they had dug out of the Earth, in the City of Alesce andria in Egypt, by I know not what chance. And as there is a certain Tradition, that this Evangelift being in Priſon, Chriſt appeared to him, and faluted him in theſe Words, Pax tibi Marce Evangeliſta meus ; the Senate of Venice re ceiv'd the holy Corps, or Bones, with the ſame Words, when it was brought to cheir City : And that's the Reaſon why the ſame Words are written upon the open Book, held by the Lion of St. Mark, in the Arms of Venice. You may imagine, there was great rejoycing for the Pof feflion 238 A New Voyage Vol. I. feflion of the Relicks of this Evangeliſt ; of which it ſeems they could give no greater Teſti mony, than by preferring him , as they did, be fore poor St. Theodore, theancient Patron of the Republick, who had not given them the leaſt cauſe of Complaint. But they ſtopt not here ; for beſides divers other Honours which they paid to the Bones of the New.comer, they built the above -mention'd Church to his Honour, and plac'd there that Sacred Treaſure. It is true, they took ſo little care to ſet a Mark upon the Shrine or Tomb, that at preſent they cannot poſitively tell where it is ; which is no ſmall Afiction to thoſe who have an extraordinary Devotion for this Saint. I will not ſtop to relate the Story of his Ap parition, ( which they ſay, happen'd Two hun dred and ſeventy Years after they had brought him to Venice ) when he ſhewed his Arm to the Doge, and gave him a Ring of Gold, which is carried everyYear in Procefſion ,on the Twenty fifth Day of June. Nor will I trouble you with many other Stories which are told on this Oc caſion . The Patriarchal Church is dedicated to St. Pe ter ; and that of St. Mark , as rich as it is , is but a Chappel : ' tis the Doge's Chappel. The Primicerio , who is the Dean of the Canons of St. Mark, wears a Miter and Rochet, as Biſhops do, and depends not on the Patriarch. I have ſeen him officiate on Chriſtmas- day in great Cere mony; the Altar being adorn'd with thericheſt Pieces in the Treaſury : He is always a noble Venetian , and his Yearly Revenue amounts to about a Thouſand Pounds Sterling. The Church of St. Mark deferves an exact Deſcription ;, but that wou'd be too great a Work for a Traveller : And therefore I ſhall content a Vol. I. to ITALY. 239 Anno 1071 . content my ſelf with giving you ſome general The Church is Account of it. It is a ſquare Structure , or al- . Croſs short red , Greek moft ſquare, built after the Greek faſhion , dark, wife. There are and indifferent high , but extraordinarily en -many Gothick rich'd with Marble, and Moſaick Work. The Ornaments. Roof conſiſts of feveral Domes, and that in the 'Twfinifl'd, midſt is larger than the reſt. Among all the according to Statues with which the outſide of the Church is Alex. Mar. adorn'd , there are but two Good ones ; the Vianoli. Adam and Eve by Riccio, which you ſee when you deſcend the great Stairs of the Palace. I ſpeak not of the Four brazen Horſes which are over the great Gate, becauſe they are foreign Pieces which were plac'd there accidentally. IThe Church of learned from a skilful Antiquary , that theſe St.Markhas Horſes were harneſſed to a Chariot of the Sun, Privilege,that this peculiar bi that ſerv'd for an Ornament to a Triumphal- they say Maſs Arch, which the Senate of Rome , erected for in it at Six Nero, after the Victory which that Prince ob- Clock at Night tain ' over the Parthians ; which may be ftill Eve. S. Did . on Chriſtmas ſeen, faith he, on the Reverſe of ſome of his A great Pre Medals. Conftantine the Great, carried them from rogative : Rome to Conſtantinople , where he plac'd them in the Hippodrome ; and at laſt the Venetians having made themſelves Maſters of that City, brought hither many of its rich Spoils, of which Num ber were theſe four Horſes. One may ſtill per ceive, in ſome places, that they weregilded. One of the Things which ſeems to me moſt remarkable in the Church of St. Mark, is the vaſt Quantity ofMoſaickWork with which it is adorn'd . 6 All the Pavement is made of it, and all the arch- . See the Mo ed Roof is lin'd with it. Since you have not nument of ſeen but few of chis kind of * Work, and deſire me s. Edward at to give you ſome Account of it, I will explain Weſtmin it to you as well as I can. Moſaick Work came fter; and the Pavement, bem originally from Greece, but ' tis plain, that it hath fore the Altar, been us'd in Italy for near Two thouſand Years.in the same Vitruvius Church , 240 A New Voyage Vol. I. Vitruvius, who lived in the Time of Auguſtus, ſpeaks of it under the terms of opus fe&tile, pavi menta ſectilia, opera mufæa & mufiva : It was alſo called, Teſſellatum , du vermiculatum opus. All Works compos'd of little inlaid Pieces, whether they be of Stone, Wood, Ivory, Ena mel, or any other Matter ; whether they be Re preſentations of Natural Things, or only Morisk or fantaſtical Ornaments ; all theſe are compre hended under the Name of Moſaick -Work : So that there are ſeveral Sorts of it. You know what we call Marquererie, a Sort of inlaid Work : You have alſo ſeen ſome of thoſe fine Works ofFlorence Stone ; in a general Senſe, all theſe are Moſaick Work . 'Tis true, that which is more particularly callid Moſaick -Work, and is one of the great Orna ments of the Church of St. Mark, is not exactly wrought after the ſame manner. For want of Natural Stones, which would have been hard to find for ſo vaſt a Work, and would have requir'd an immenſe time to poliſh and prepare ; they were forc'd to uſe Paites, and Compoſitions of Glaſs and Enamel melted, and made in a Cruci ble ; this takes a lively and ſhining Colour,which never wears, nor ſtains. Every Piece of the Mo ſaick -Work in this Church is a little Cube, which is not above Three Lines thick , or ſometimes Four at the moſt. All the Field is of Moſaick gilded with very bright Gold, and incorpora ted in the Fire , upon the Surface of one of the Faces of the Square or Cube : And all the Fi gures, with their Draperies and other Orna ments, are coloured according to Nature, by the due laying together of all the pieces of the Work. All theſe little Bits are diſpoſed accord ing to the Deſign which the Workman has be fore his Eyes, and are join'd cloſe together, in the cement that was prepar'd to receive them; 1 which Vol. 1. to ITALY. 241 ? which preſently after becomes hard. The beſt * The Beautyof Quality of this work is its Solidity. It has laſted each of theſe more than Six hundred Years without the leaſt for onemay fmal Pieces : diminution of its * Beauty . eaſily judge The Pavement of the Church is alſo extream - that theſe Ty curious ; and tho' it is ſpoil'd , and in ſome Small Bits do rometimes places worn, it may be thought a kind of Mi- cleave afunder,; racle that ſuch large Pieces remain ſtill entire , ſo that the after they have been trodden under Foot for ſo whole Work many Ages. They are little Pieces ofFaſper, has needof beo ing repair'di Porphyry, Serpentine,and Marble of divers Colours, which formCompartiments quite different from one another. I paſs by the Relicks, the miraculous Ima ges , and other holy Rarities, which are in this Church ; and ſhall only mention one of them, which I thought the moſt curious, I mean the Rock which Moſes ftruck in the Wilderneſs ; 21" 'Tis in the Chappel: of Madona della Scarpa , or of Cardinal Zeno, at the end of the Baptiſtery : It is a kind of greyiſh † Marble ; and there can + They canines be nothing more pleaſant, than the Four little poſitively tell Holes out ofwhich they affirm the Water iſſued : Piece of the They are about two Fingers from each other, Rock Horeb , and the Bore of each Hole is no bigger than the Exod. 17.6 . hollow of a Gooſe-Quill. ' Tis certainly doubly or of that of Kadez, in the miraculous , that ſo much Water , in ſo little Time, ſhould iſſue out of ſuch narrow Holes, Numb. 10.8 Dejart of Zin, as was ſufficient to quench the thirft of an Ar my of Six hundred thouſand Men, with their Wives, Children, and Cattle. Heſtruck the Stony Rock, and the Water guſh'd out in abundance, Pf. 78. The Madona that gives the Name to the Chap pel, the Angel over-againſt her on the other Side , and the little Manger which is to be ſeen in the ſame Place , were all cut out of the Rock which Moſes ftruck, if you think fit to believe R my whether it be V. 20, 242 A New Voyage Vol.I.

my Informers, and the whole was brought from Constantinople. Theſe Wordsare engray'd under the Stone, with the four Holes , Aqua quæ priùs ex petra miraculosè fluxit, oratione Propheta Mofis produ &ta eft : Nunc autem bæc Michaelis ſtudio la . bitur ; quem ſerva , Chriſte do Conjugem Irenem . That, Nuncautem hæc labitur, is a Paſſage which I muſt confefs I do not underſtand ; nor cou'd I meet with any Man that cou'd explain the meaning of it.

• Farber M4 They made us take notice of a Piece of billon writes,Porphyry, enchas'd in the Pavement, in the mid in his IcerIca- dle of the Portico of the Church, over-againſt licum, that the great Door : It is to mark the place where ,

Lapidi rubeo magno infixa they ſay Pope Alexander IH ,, fet his foot on et Lamina, the Neck of the Emperor Frederick Barbaroſa, in quo Alex. when that Prince came to ſubmit to him for the ander III. obtaining of a Peace. I am not ignorant, that Fred. Æno barbo collo Baronius, and ſome others , have criticized this pedem im . Story, and rejected it as a Fable : But I muſt take potuiſſe dici- this occaſion to tell you, by the Bye, that what this incilis,fu ever probability may ſeem to be in the Reaſons per Alpidem they alledge , they cannot paſs for more than & Balilifcum Suſpicions and Conje &tures, if not ſpontaneous ambulabis. Lies; and can never amount to a convincing The Stone is . Refutation of a Story atteſted by ſo great a Num 7101 large, nei. ther is there ber of worthy andcredible Authors. any Plate, or Piece of Metal fafen'd to it, nor any Words engravd upon it. ' Tis fome what firange, that the Father ſhou'd miſtaks so often in fo Small a compaſs. But perhaps be relyid : 00 much upon bis Memory, which, it ſeems., was not A very faithful Guide. You may ſee the whole Storg at length in Bodin, 1. 1. c. 10. J. Carion rem lates, in the fourtle Book of his Chronicle, that Theodore, Marqueſs of Miſnia, who was preſent, cou'd not forbear expreſſing his Indignation by ſome threarning Geffures, when he saw the Emperor chus erarnpled under Foot : And that the Pope was ſo alarm'd with ehele Menaces, thuit be treated the Emperor afuere wards with great Demonftrations of Kindneſs and Reſpeel. a tur ; Alexander 1 Vol. I. to ITALY. 243 Alexander III. was a haughty Man ; his Ene mies had provoked him, and he had at laſt the Pleaſure to criumph over an Emperor , and Four Anti- popes. Atthe very Time of hisFlighe into France , he was ſo proud as to ſuffer * Two * Lewis the Kings, who met him, tu alight, and both to young, King of take the Reins of his Bridle, and lead his Horſe France, and Henry II , to che Lodging prepared for him. If he did this King of Engo in his Difgrace, what might he not be ſuppos'd land. to do in his Proſperity ? (See under , p. 247. ) From the Church of St. Mark you enter into the Treaſury; Three Procurators of St. Mark are the Adminiſtrators ofit , and it is never open'], but in the Preſence of one of them . In the first Place, you ſee ſome Relicks, as Pieces of the true Croſs ; Bones of dead Perſons; the Hair andMilk of the Virgin , &c. From thence you paſs inco another Chamber, where the real Trea ſure is kept. The greateſt part of the Things to be ſeen there , were brought from Conftantinople, at theſame time with the Brazen Horſes, which I mentioned before. I ſhall only name ſome of the moſt confiderable Pieces. The two Crowns of the Kingdoms of Candid and Cyprus ; many fine Veſſels of Agat, of the Root of Emeralds, and of Cryſtal : ' Tis faid , that theſe Veſſels belong'd to the Cap-board of Con ſtantine. A kind of Bucker Eight Inches deep, and as many in Diameter, madeof one piece of Granat ; a very fair Saphire, which, they fay, mismoff cera 'tain, that theſe Stones are fine. The Republick had formerly, ſays S.Did . a Gold Chain which was ſo long and heavy, that it requir'd Forty Men to carry it, beſides i 2 or 15 Millions in Gold , which was never touch'd bist by thoſe who were employ'd on certain occaſi ors to tell it over. They caus'd the Chain to be extended along the Portico of the Palace, and made a heap of Preees of Guld betwixt each Column. The Republick added every year ſome Links to the Chain, and laid up ſome Gold in the Treaſury. But thisTreaſure was partly exhauſted by the War of Candia ; and ſome Veneti an Families have alſo found a wayto enrich themelves with the spoils of it . R 2 weighs 244 2 New Voyage Vol. 1. weighs Ten Ounces ; Twelve Corſlets of Gold, garniſhed with Pearls ; Twelve Head - Tires in form of Crowns, which they ſay were worn in certain Ceremonies by the Maids of Honour of the Empreſs Helena. A Cup of one Turquoiſe, with Egyptian Gharacters ; this Cup is ſeven Ins ches in diameter, and Three and a half in depth: A Picture of St. Jerome, in fine Moſaick, confift ing of Pieces that are not one Line ſquare ; and Camerarius many other Things that are either remarkable · Saith, this for their Richneſs or Rarity. The Doge's Corno Corno is not is, in my Opinion, the fineſt of them all ; the eftecm'd worth Circle is of Gold, the Bonnet or Capof Crimſon more than Tx• Velvet, and the whole enrich'd with precious bundred thou . Jand Crowns. Stones and Pearls of great Value. Charles Paſchal pretends to prove, that this Corno is nothing elſe but the Phrygian Bonnet, or Trojan Mitre, which Antenor brought into this Country, the Form of which may be ſtill ſeen in divers Anti ent Pieces, as in the Statue of Ganymede, which 20:1 may ſee is at the entrance of the Library of St. Mark ; the form of in ſome Medals of the God Lunus ; in ſome o this Coronet in thers where you fee Æneas carrying the old An the figure of chiſes: and in Miniatures of the ancient Manu fcript of Virgil in the Vatican : but theſe are Chy merical Thoughts. This Manuſcript puts me in Mind of that Jur . Payen , which they call The Goſpel of St. Mark , and is writes, that is here eſteem'd one of the moſt precious Things is of the Skin of a Tree; but he hath been miſinform’d , as well asP. Meſſie, whe ſaid, they mere Leaves. Nor was Father Mabillon's Information better, that gave caſion to write, that the Manuſcript which bears the Name of St. Mark's Gof. pel is never ſhown , Sigillo oblignatur, nec cuiquam aperitur. ' Tis probable, that obale who show'd him the Treaſury, told him ſuch a Story, that they might Spare themſelves thetrouble of opening it : Orperhaps he rely’d upon theAuthority of M. de S. Didier, who affirms the ſame Thing, and ſeems to deſerve more cre. dot than other Strangers, who have deſcrib'd this City, becauſe he Audied the Subject to carefully. I have ſeen that alanufcripi iwice. I was brought frons Aquileia , where it was kept by the Religious of the Order of St. Bennet. in th: Doge. bim 02+ 11 1 → Vol. I. to ITALY. 245 been much Græca. Com TV . ! in the Treaſury. I was ſuffered to take a parti- Father Mont cular view of it, and conſider'd it at leiſure. le faucon has confiſts of old Leaves of very thin Vellum , ac- Miftakin, a cording to the beſt Conjecture of our Company, bout this Ms. looſed from each other, worn , torn , defaced, in his Diarie and fo rotten with Moiſture, and other Injuries um Italicum ; but has ſince of Time, to which this Book has doubtleſs been acknowledgºt expos'd, that one cannot touch it without fome part of his Bits ſticking to his Fingers ; and it is a hard faulis, in his matter to diſcern any Thing in it. This Manu - Paleographia ſcript was in 4to, about two Inches thick. The see the laſt Remainders of it are ſhut up in a Box of Silver, Preface, at the gilded, made in the form of a Book. There re- Head of this main ſtill fome Traces of imperfect Characters, preſent luc but ſo little that ſcarce any Thing can be diſtin guiſh'd ; but by turning over the Leaves, I found Three or Four Letterswell form'd : I alſo met with the Word KATA, written as you ſee . I was with the Abbot Lith, Library -Keeper of St. Mark, and others , and we ſearch'd as dili gently as we could, without being able to dife cover any Thing , only that the Margin was large, and the Lines at a conſiderable Diſtance, and ruled with Two little Parallet Scores , to make the Writing ftraight and equal. This KATA, with a s and a £, which I alſo obſerv'd in ir, proves that it is a * Greek Manuſcript. But ** Alfonfus the bare Tradition is not a ſufficient Demon- Ciaconius po ſtration that it was written by St. Mark : The fitively affirms Age we now live in , does not furpish us with a- that this ma ny Originalof that Time ; neither can be proved tin ;and this nuſcript is Las that there is any Manufcript in the World, that was one of the comes any thing near thatTime. The manner Reasons upona of Writing, which I obſerv'd , wou'd rather which Baronie make me inclinable to believe, that it is the us grounded his Opinion, Work of ſome .profeffed Tranſcriber. Beſides, tha St. Mavis we muſt rely on common Fame, to believe it wrote his Go to be a Goſpel rather than anything elſe,fince Spel in Latin. one 21 2. 条 MA R 3 246 A New Voyage Vol. I. ز ز + This Hiſtory one can hardly diſtinguiſh any Letters in it . † is reported by TheTreaſury was robb’d in the Year 1427 , by Sabellicus, Garon , Ca. a certain Candiot named * Stamati, who made a sutti, and Je- Hole in the Wall ; they recover'd every Thing, veral others. but the Thief was ſentenced to be hang'd ; and,

• Stamati ba- they ſay, he begg'd the Favour of the Judges,

wing communi·that he might have a gilt Halter, which they cated the Secret to one Zachary had the Charity to granthim . Upon the Wall, Grio, that over the firſt Door of the Treaſury, are Two Grio diſcover.Figures in Moſaick, which, they ſay, repreſenç edandthereceiv'da same, St. Dominick, and St. Francis, and were made be greatReward ;fore either of them was born, according to the but the Thief Prophecy of the Abbott Joachim . Das kanged on the Two Columns or Marble Pillars which are at the Entrance of the Palace, 0. ver- againſt the Logiecta . Lewis Garon affirms, the Theft wasvalued at Twa Millions of Gold. They ſay, that the well in the Court of this Palace cannot be. Poylemed , becauſe Two Unicorns Horns were caft into it . + He was Condemned for a Heretick, by tbe Fourth Council of Lateran, and his Books were burnt by the common Hangman, in the Fear 1215. The Palace of St. Mark is contiguous to the Church : It is a large fine Building, though af ter the Gothick manner. It hath been burnt four or five times ; and the various Reparations of it have ſpoiled the Uniformity of the Structure. The ſide which is on the Canal, is built of a certain pietra dura, brought from Iſtria ; and the Archite aure of that part is highly eſteemid : Were the reit of the Building ſuitable, it wou'd be a very fine Structure. The Doge lodges in this Palace ; and here it is that all the Councils of State, and all the Magiſtracy do meet. The Apartments are large, high, and well wainſcotted, but dark in compariſon of the Light that is now a - days required in Buildings. The Hall where the Bo dy of the Nobles aſſemble, which, you know , compoſes the Grand Council in which the Sove eeignty of the Statę,reſides, is extreamly large, and Vol. I. to ITALY 247 - VA onet ia and adorn'd with fine Paintings ; among which are the Pictures of the Doges ; the Hiſtory of the Conqueſt of Conſtantinople, which was taken in the Year 1192, and loſt threeſcore Years af ter. The Picture of Frederick and Alexander is there alſo ; they have not forgot the Circum ſtance of the Foot on the Neck. What I obferv'd in this picture , gives me an opportunity to add ſomething to what I have already ſaid on the ſame Subject. I think we ought not to take it in a rigorous, and ſtrictly literal Senſe, what is commonly ſaid ; Thathe * The ſameSto. Pope * ſet bis Foct t on the Emperor's THROAT. This ry is repreſen : Adion would become lerś odious, and more ed in the credible, if it wererelated as it is repreſented James Churchdeof St. in this ancient Piaure. For the Pope ſeems on- Rialto. ly to put his Foot lightly on the Neck of the † Depoſte le Emperor, without ſhowing a very great Paf- veſti d'oro, fion . Tho' the Hiſtory of the Popes mentions proârato a vanti l'e'pi a great Number of 'em that were guilty of the edi d'Aller utmoft Excelles of Pride, Brutiſhneſs, and Fury ; ſandro, chie and tho' ſuch a haughty Man as this Alexander devamiſeria cordia ; & il was capable of the moſt ſpiteful Reſentments, Papa poſtoliil when he was animated with Revenge and Indig- piededeſtro nation, it ought to be conſidered ,that ſo vio - sù iICOLLO , lent an Adion, on ſuch an Occaſion , amongdifie quelle Strangers, in a Publick Place, and in the fight Salmo ; Super of ſuch a Multitude of People, would have been Aſpidem á Baſiliſcum apk bulabis , do conculcabis Leonem do Draconem . Al cui motivo l' Imperatore riſpoſe ; non tibi, Séd Peiro. Ed il Papa più forte Calcando il piede fog. giunſe, & mihi & Petro. ( Theodor. Volle cit. di Pip. ch.1o.) The Same Story unanimouſly related by a Thouſand other Authors, among whom 1 ball only cite Alex. Maria Vianali, and Giovanni Franceſco Lauredano Two Noble Vene tians, with Nicholas Doglioni. The firft wrote Hiſtory of Venice, which is very much effeem'd, and the ſecond the Hiſtory of Pope Alexander, They ar? toiis pofisive on this subject. Inſtead of quoting that paſſage inthe Pſalms, ike Pope might have rather alledg'd the Example of Joſhua ,ch. x. v. 14 . ز li T! . parole del a a 1 2 R 4 contrary 248 A New Voyage Vol. I. contrary to the Policy , as well as the Gravity of God's Vicar. Whereas it was not only a Noble Pride, but alſo the Duty of him who repreſents the Maſter of the Univerſe, and whoſe Govern ment extends it ſelf over all the Kings of the World, on ſuch an Occaſion to maintain the Dignity of his Character. ' Tis true, that the Submiſſion and Repentance of the Vaſſal, ought to have been receiv'd with a Spirit of Meekneſs; but on the other Hand, it was not juſt that he ſhould be acquitted for a ſingle Reverence. It was requiſite , as I obſerv'd before, that the Lieu tenant of Jeſus Chriſt, ſhould maintain the Inte reſt of his Maſter : and that, at leaſt, he ſhould make the Offender feel his Power, the ſame time that he granted him Pardon. If it be objected, that all this is founded only on the Fancy of a Painter, who repreſented the Story as he thought fir ; I anſwer, firſt, that this is a meer precarious Aſſertion . Painters do not always give them ſelves a Latitude, nor do they uſually allow themſelves a Liberty that is inconſiſtent with an important Circumſtance. And in the ſecond Place, it is more reaſonable to believe this Pi. Eture, than to form chimerical Notions on pur pofe to refute ' em. Some wrangling Diſputer will perhaps alledge, that the Neck is not the Throat , but I think it not worth the while to reply to ſo frivolous an Objection. I hope you will pardon this new Digreſſion , in which ! was the more eaſily engaged, becauſe of the Dil courſe we had on this Subject. I ſhall only add two Remarks on the Palace of Bajamonte Tiepoli, St. Mark , which, in my Opinion, deſerve to be Noble Veneci- taken notice of. The Rebellion of Bajamonte, an in the be the Story of which you know, was the occafion ginning of the of the Erecting of a little Arſenal in the Palace, fourteen: h Çer" to whịch there is a Paſſage from the Hall of the Grand 1 34 Vol. I. to ITALY 249 a on ; . per prevenzione 3 Live It is the Gian Grand Council, by a Gallery of Communicati that if the People ſhould conſpire againſt w the Nobles, and make any Attempt againſt them suck while they are fitting, they might be furniſh'd hos Aling with Arms upon the Spot to defend themſelves, to mare And ' twas alſo for the ſame Reaſon that they tre built that little Tribunal called the Loggietta, h: 14 which is at the foot of the Tower of St. Mark, Iris oli in light of the Palace, and of the Hall of the not perdre . Grand Council. There are always ſome of Rever the Procurators of St. Mark there, upon the e,chandel Watch , while the Council is Aſſembled ; arintil king a fhew of doing other Buſineſs. This Ar ce bal fenal is furniſhed with a competent Number of the fie : Fuſees and Muſquets, which lie always ready in the city's Charged ; and a great many other good Arms. he For There is a Machine, a little outof order, which as berhen is to light Five hundred Matches atonce. Be ſides theſe, they keep, in the ſame Place, a con fiderable Number of curious ancient Arms, a cally mong which they preſerve, the Sword of the Valiant Scanderbeg. ' II obſerv'd there the Buft of Francis Carrara, the laſt Lord of Padua, ſo fa * Strangled at era mous for his Cruelties. They ſew a little Box Padua with for a Toilette, in which are ſix little Guns, which his four Chil - De are ſo order'd with Springs adjuſted in ſuch a dren ,byorder lisans manner, that upon the opening of the Trunk, of the Senate the Guns fir'd , and kill'd the † Lady, to whom he Year 1405. of Venice, in Carrara ſent it for a Preſent. They ſhow alſo + TheCountels with this, ſome little Pocket Croſs- Bows, and Sacraci. In Jar Arrows of Steel, with which he took Pleaſure to there nuarywere 1696310. kill thoſe . he met, ſo ſecretly that they cou'd more than twe Pris hardly either perceive the Blow, or him that Guns in the ervoor gave it. Ibi etiam ſunt feræ , & varia repagula, Box . quibusturpe illud Monſtrum , Pellices fuas occludebat. I muſt not forget thetwo little Statues of Adam and Eve, which Albert Durer made in Priſon , with the point of a Pen -knife, and for which he pbrain'd his Liberty. The fent che le OSOOFING he white 7 hore en of bed Enjoy Cele DeBano alice 250 A New Voyage Vol.i. The other particulars which I ſhall yet ob ſerve about the Palace of St. Mark , are the Muze zles under the inner Portico ; in ſeveral Places The Diſcoverers of the Galleries, into the Throats of which ariy are ſometimes Body may caſt a Letter or Note, to give what rewarded. They Advice he thinks fit to the Inquiſitors of the make them Jelves known by State, who have the Keys of theſe Boxes, and a bit of Paper make uſe of the Notices they find, according to Billet torn from whichthe their Judgment and Equity, This is what they call Denuntie Secrete. they put into the Box. The Library is in the Procuraties, over -againſt the Palace, and on the other ſide of the Broglio. There are ſeveral Greek Manuſcripts in it, which were given by Cardinal Beſario, who you know was a Grecian . I could not learn thatthere was any Thing rare in this neglected Library, ex cept another Manuſcript, De confideratione Dei, Bellato Ni which they aſcribe to St. Auguftin . I cannot cenusCardi- tell what Reaſons induce them to believe it, but nalis, Bibli- it is very certain, that the Title of this Treatiſe othecam fu- is not in the Index of Poſidius. A Friend of am quam ex Græciæ reli- mine, who travelled into Spain, told me, that quiis hincin- there is in the Eſcurial, a Manuſcript- Treatiſe of de conquiſi- Baptiſm , which alſo paſſes for St. Auguftine's, verat, Tem- and is different from that which we have of that plo D. Marci Venetiis di. ancient Doctor againſt the Donatiſts ; and they cat. An.1468. add, that Charles the Fifth refuſed Fifty thouſand Calvif . Some Piſtols for it : But I believe that poor Prince think that would have gladly taken them, when at his lat Calviſius mi. Atookthe rear ter End he was forced to ſell his Jewels. To re of thisDonati- turn to the * Library ; if it is none of the moſt on, becauſe it ſeems 10 contradi&f the date mention'd in that Prelate's Epitaph, which is to be Seon at Rome. Bellario Epifcopus Tufculanus S. R. Ecclefiæ Cardinalis, Pacriarcha Conſtantinopolitanus, Nobili Græciâ ortus, oriunduſque, fibi vivens poſuit, anno ſalutis 1466. But this Epitapho does not mention the rear of bis Death ; the Date refers io the Wordsfibi vivens poſuir. MezerayJays, that Sixtus IV. jent him to Lewis XI, in 1471. He was a Native of Trebizond.

• The Library of Petraque makes part of St. Mark's, with thoſe of the Care dinals, Alcandre and Grimani.

nume ز 1 251 Vol. I. to ITALY, . Scarpe NY numerous, rareft, and beſt condition'd in the World ; yet, co make amends, it is adorn'd with Paintings by Titian , and ſome other famous Ma fters, wbich are much eſteem'd. There are alſo many Greek Statues of admirable Beauty, parti cularly, the above-mention'd Ganymede, carried away by Jupiter, transform'd into an Eagle ; a The greate Venus ; an Apollo ; and two Gladiators. It muft part of theſe be acknowledg’d, that this Library is neither Statues were kept in good Order, nor much frequented. Prelinted to the Library by That ofthe Benediktines at St. George Major is more John Grimani numerous and acceffible, and more carefully Patriarch of look'd after : And that of the Dominicans of SS. Aquileia, and John and Paul, deſerves almoft the fame Cha- Fred. Conta rini Procura racter. There are alſo conſiderable Libraries for of St.Mark: belonging to the Tbeatins of St. Nicholas Tolentini ; They were fit the Canons of St. Saviour ; the bare - footed Car- up in the place where they melites ; as well as thoſe at St. Stephen's, La Sa- tand at pre lute, St. Anthony di Caſtello, and in ſeveral other ſent, Anno Convents. Dominico Martinelli, in a Treatiſe 1597. lately publiſh'd, Entituled Ritratto, &c. affures us, ebat one may find admittance into ſeveral private Libraries, which are kept open on cer tain Days for that purpoſe : Such as thoſe of the Procurators Baptifta Cornaro Piſcopia, Antonio Na ni of * Zueca , and Pbilippo Bono ; of the No- * Or Giudeca. bles, John Cornaro ofSt. Paul, and Marino Zani ; but eſpecially that which belongs to the Sarotti's, where the Curious are entertain'd with a great deal of Civility and Liberty, on Mondays, Wed meſdays, and Fridays, &c. They give out, that there are as many fine, Paintings at Venice, as at Rome, and we have al ready ſeen good ſtore of them : But I do not pretend to undertake to give you a particular Account of 'em. The three moft celebrated Pieces of thoſe that are to be ſeen in the Churches , or other Publick Places, are the Wed 2012V > 252 A New Voyage Vol. I. ding of Cana, by Paul Veroneſe, in the Refe & tory of St. George Major. The Preſentation of the Virgin by Titian , in the School of Charity. And * This St. Pe- the * St. Peter Martyr. at SS. John and Paul, by ter was a Do - the fame Titian. minican, and Inquiſicor-general in Lombardy. He was knock'd on the Head with his Compa. sions by fome Se &taries whom keperſecuted. This bappened near Barlaiſina, ou the Rosd betwixt Como and Milan: Venice is perhaps the only City of Europe, where young Painters may beſt Study the Beau ties of Nature. There are two Academies, where there are always Naked Perſons of both Sexes to be deſign'd , and which are often on the Stage together, in what poſture they pleaſe to put them . Every body for a ſmall matter may come in there, and you cannot believe with what boldneſs theſe little Creatures will endure to be gazed on by all the World. I ſhall anſwer in a few words your Queſtion concerning the Ebbing and Flowing of the Sea, by confirming what you have doubtleſs heard from others. The Sea flows fix Hours, and ebbs as much : It is later every Day by Three quar tèrs of an Hour, or thereabouts, as upon the Coaſts of the Ocean which you have ſeen ; and the Tides riſe uſually at Venice Four Foot, or Four Foot and an half : ſometimes more, and ſome times leſs ; and here, as well as in all other Pla ces, it agrees with the Moon, after the uſual manner : I fall take care to impart to you the Obſervations I ſhall have occaſion to make along the Gulf from Ravenna to Loretto. The Shore is extreamly pleaſant beyond thoſe long and narrow Illes, which make Banks on the Eaſt fide ; and form a kind of Semicircle from North to South , round about Venice : this is pro perly the Sea. There you find Shell-fiſh, andthe . و Vol. I. tö ITALY. 253 the Walk is very diverting. They get ſtore of Oyſters about Venice, but they differ much in the Savour of ours. They are even thought to be hurtful ; and Strangers, eſpecially, abſtain , from eating ſo many as in other places. You have Reaſon to ſay, that Policy and Liberty are two Words, which make a great Noiſe at Venice. But it muſt be acknowledg'd , that the Venetians are not the only Perſons who magnifie their Policy. I think 'tis generally confeſs'd, that they have refin'd this study, and have ſuc ceeded that I neither can nor will conteft. I Shall only offer Two Obſervations touching that Subject : The firſt is, that when we ſpeak in ge neral of the Policy of Venice, we run immedi ately to a particular Conſideration , which fills our Mindswith falſe Prejudices. Before we pro ceed to take a nearer and more exact view of this boaſted Policy, we judge of it by a deceit ful appearanceofa falſe and ill- grounded Expe rience. The State of Venice, ſay they, hath maintained it ſelf for theſe Twelve or Thirteen hundred Years. What a wonderful Thing is this, add they, and what greater Proof can be deſired of the excellency of its Government ? But by reſting here, without further Examina tion, they draw a falſe Conſequence from a ve ry ill-grounded Principle. For this way of Reafoning cannot be juſt and ſolid, unleſs the State of Venice had always maintain'd it ſelf un der the ſame kind of Government. One might then admire the wiſe and happy Conduct of its Councils, which , by the various reſults of their Prudence, had thus preſerved the State for fo long a Succeſſion of Ages. But to deal plainly, this is not the caſe of Venice ; for to what pur poſe wou'd it be to diſſemble, when the Thing is obvious to the Sight and Knowledge of all the World ? 254 A New Voyage Vol. 1. 01inthe. wered to fin ad already . en no old Ro asetition w : Trap World ? The Truth is, that the Government of Venice hath often changed its Conſtitution , with our affirming what ſome maintain, that this Rea zed wa publick hath rendered Homage to the Kings of a chicas Italy. ' Tis in vain to deny, that the Doges were col for for a long Time abfolute Sovereigns; whether by Right or Uſurpation it matters not. The mica State of Venice was no more a Republick, when Moho its ancient Dukes govern'd with an Arbitrary Power, than the State of Rome was a common camaa w wealth under the firſt Cæfar’s, or during the end Teach - Triumvirate. And therefore we muſt care- si Poverthe fully obſerve the Difference between theſe Two strain,te Propoſitions: The Republick of Venice has main tained it ſelf for Twelve hundred Years ; or, Venice has been a State, or the Capital City of a State for Twelve bundred Years. The firſt of theſe Propostapot fitions, in a ſtrict ſenſe, is really falſe, for the Reaſons I alledged : and the ſecond is true; but nothing can be concluded from it. Onemight. The Repubi as well ſay,that Rome has been the Capital Ci 17; yet the ty of a State, for above Two thouſand four hun . dred Years, butcould notfrom thence conclude, that the State of Rome had maintained it ſelf in the ſameConſtitution, during all that Time: for aGovernment cannot be ſaid to maintain it ſelf, when the Form of it is alter'd . My ſecond Remark upon this Policy, which makes ſo much noiſe, is , that the Signiory of Venice being confin'd within narrow Limits, in compariſon of the great States of the World ; i middle and the main Ambition of this Republick (I ſpeak principally, as it ſtands at preſent ) being only to live quietly and peaceably with all the World ; I do notſee what need it has of ſuch an extraordinary nimbleneſs of Wit, or ſuch high. zlomu efforts of an exaltedGenius, to maintain,it felf in quier. When the Republick of Rome aſpired ayDeclenfi merament a Time, is that prece Sone of the till be con the more itof theirs anuno en which b tenment i watat refpec s, obferved a Vol. I. to ITALY. 235 to the Empire of the Univerſe ; when it endea youred to fill the World with its Colonies, and had already made fo many Kings its Tributa ries, and was to find out the Secret, to make it felfboth feared and loved by the Provinces it had newly fubdued ; then it was that Policy was neceſſarily required. But there is no fuch oc caſion for it at Venice. If the little Republick of St. Marin fhould come to boaſt of its Policy on the Broglio, do you not think that ſuch a Řho domontade wou'd make a diverting Scene ? TO ſpeak Truth without derogating from the Glory and Power that Venice has ſeveral timesacquired ; it is certain , that Venice is no more to be compa red to old Rome', than St. Marin can come in competition with Venice. I might add, for a third Remark, that the wonderful Policy ofVenicecou'd not prevent the many Declenſions which that Republick has ſuf fer'd . The Republicans talk of nothing but their Li berty ; yet theſe poor People are Slaves to their Mafters, as all other poor People are , under what. . Government foever they live : And, in the mean Time, they ſtuff their Heads with I know not what pretended Notions of Liberty, as if every one of them were a little Sovereign. But it muſt be confeſſed , that the Inhabitants of Ve nice have more reaſon than any other people to boaſt of theirs . I will tell you in two words, what that Liberty is : You muſt never in the leaſt meddle with Affairs of State : You muſt i commit no enormous Crimes puniſhable by Ju ſtice, which by their Notoriety may oblige the Government to call you to an Account; and in all other reſpects you may do what you pleaſe, without ſo much as fearing to be cenſur'd, nor, even, obferv'd. This is the Sum of the Vene tian 1 256 A New Voyage Vol. 1. tian Liberty. I might tell you many Things on this Subje&, that are very particular, and might even ſeem fomewhat incredible : But ſince theſe Reflections wou'd have carried me too far, I will deferr the further Confideration of 'em to ano. ther Opportunity. As for the Queſtions you propoſe about the Toleration of Religions, you muſt know, that the Greeks, Armenians, and Jews, are allow'd the publick Exerciſe of their Religions; all other Sects are fuffer'd or conniv'd at, but they order their Meetings after ſo Secret and Prudent a Manner, that the Senate hath no Reaſon to complain of the Abuſes or Indiſcretion of any Perſon . Nocwithſtanding the Worſhipping of Images ard Relicks, and many other Superſtitions reign at Venice ; they prevail only among the com mon People, to whom the Government is wil * The Jeſuites ling to grant theſe Amuſements. Their Wits have neither care neither for that, nor any Thing. For a Collegenormerly the Venetians were as filly as the reſt of Novitiate at the Popish World. The Excommunications of Venice ; and their church the Pope ſcared them, and ſometimes didthem makes a mean a great deal of Miſchief. Thoſe of Clement V , show. They for Example, made a terrible pother among'em , kave ſome good and ſpoiled all their Trade : But now they Thole in the trouble not themſelves aboutſuch things ; and Paintings : Sacrifty are by the Liberties of the Venetian Church are at pre old Palma. In ſent as great as thoſe of the Gallican . They the Chappel of take notice of the Pope as a Prince, but do the great Al tar there isa not much regard him as Pope. Whenthe* je fine Piece of ſuites, who are the moſt potent Support of that the Aſſumptio on, by Tintorer : and one of ibeCircumciſion, by the ſame Hand ; with the Viſit of the Virgin by Andrew Schiavon. The Martyrdom of St. Lawrence is a famous Piece of Tician's ; and the Bebeading of St. John by old Palma. The Tombs of Horacio Farneſe, General of the Venetian Army, the Doge Pafchal Cico nia, of the Procurator Priam Legio, and ſome others are very fine.

which Vol. I. to ITALY. 257 which they call the Holy See, would have fuba mitted to the Order of Suſpenſion, ſent to the Clergy of Venice from Pope Paul the Fifth, they were driven out as Enemies and Diſturbers of the State. And tho' for ſome Reaſons at the inſtant Sollicitations of the Court of Rome, they were afrerwards recalled ; it was on condition that they ſhould not make ſuch Diſturbances as they do in other places. Tho'they had bad De ſigns, the Republick knows how to curb them : but conſidering the Precautions that are uſed, the Tolerationof the Jeſuites at Venice can pro duce no ill Conſequences : For, I am inform’d , they ſuffer none to live there , but ſuch as are born Subjects of the State ; and they aſſure me alſo, that the Superior muſt be a Native of the City. In a word, 'tis certain that the Venetians ſuffer themſelves to be govern'd neither by Prieſts nor Monks. Men of that Profeſſion may wear Masks during the Carnaval ; keep their Concubines ; ſing on the Stages ; and take what other Liberties they pleaſe, but they muſt not thruſt their Nofes into Affairs of State. The Senate in Venice, as well as in Holland , is wiſe enough to be ſenſible of the Diſorders which happen when ſuch Perſons as theſe are permitted to meddle with the Government. And would to God they would do the ſame in all other States in the World. I have taken particular Care to inform my ſelf about the Sentiments of the Greeks who live here; The Greek touching the Articles of which you mention in Church is De your Letter. But to ſpeak freely, though I find dicated to them to be declar'd Enemies to the Roman Reli- St. George. gion, and tho' they exclaim furioully againſt the fom , and they have some courſe Paintings, after the Mode of their Country, om Ground of Gold . The Church has but one Nave, without Pillars. S Uſur The Front is pretty hand 258 A New Voyage Vol. I. Uſurpations of the Biſhop of Rome, when they ſpeak with freedom : I perceive by their Dil courſe, that either by Contagion, or ſome other Reaſon, they differ in ſeveral Points from the other Greek Churches, which are at preſent une der the Dominion of the Turk ; at leaſt if we may believe the Relacions of thoſe Countries. So that from the Opinions of theſe we onght not to draw any Concluſion concerning the Be lief of the Greeks in general. To deal plainly with you , they declare here, that they believe Tranfubftantiation ; but this is not ſufficient to decide the Queſtion , which has made ſo much noiſe ; and at the bottom , makesnothing againſt thoſe who will not admit that Doctrine. They make uſe of common Bread ; they mingle Wa ter with the Wine, and communicate under both Kinds. There are two Altars in their Church , one which they call the Altar of Preparation , and the other of Conſecration. On the firſt, they cut the Bread with a Knife, fashion'd like the Head of a Spear. There, they alſo mix Water with the Wine, and the Prieſt takes it with a Sponge out of the Veſtel in which it was firſt mixed , and afterwards ſqueezes it out into the Cha lice . They embrace one another before they receive the Sacrament : And the, Communi cants receive the Bread dipt in the Wine, the Prieſt putting it with a Spoon into their Mouths. All this we law : The Arch -biſhop who officia ted , had a Mitre faſhion'd like an Imperial Crown, and all his other Ornaments were mag nificent : They were changed from Time to Time , according to the ſeveral Parts of the Service. There are among them Abundance of Ce remonies and Myſteries. When the Biſhop bleſſes the People , he holds in his Right-hand a Candie Vol. I. to ITALY. 259 + Candleſtick of Three Branches, with the Ta pers lighted , which is an Emblem of the Per ſons of the Trinity. The Candleſtick which he holds in his Left -hand hath two Branches, to denote the two Natures of Chriſt : But I will not engage further in the Intricacies of theſe my ſterious Repreſentations. Their Churches are divided into four Parts ; the Altars (of Prepara tion and Confecration ) are in the Place which they call Holy, at one End of the Church. There are none but he who officiates, and thoſe who ſerve him, who commonly enter there. The ſecond Place is appointed for the other Parts of the Service : The Men are in the third Place, which is ſeparated only from the ſecond by lit tle Ballifters ; and the Women fit behind a Let tice, at the other End of the Church, or in the Galleries. The whole Service is perform'd in vulgar Greek, which is their natural Language, and underſtood by ' the People. They highly condemn the Uſe of unknown Languages in the Church : They worſhip ſtanding , bowing their Heads, and laying their Hands upon their Breaſt. Thoſe who are married , may be ad vanc'd to Ecclefiaftical Preferments without quitting their Wives : But thoſe that are recei ved before Marriage, are not afterwards ſuffered to marry. They pretend that Chriſtian De cency permits not any Perſon to marry above thrice;; ſo that they forbid fourth Marriages. They deny Purgatory , and you know upon what Principles they pray for the Dead. There are very few here who believe a Temporary Hell from which the Elect are delivered ; but they pray for the Souls which, they fay, are Se quefter'd, expecting the Laſt Judgment. The Úſe of Confeffion is much practis'd among them , but not afrer the Roman manner. The Article S 2 of " 4 260 A New Voyage Vol. I. of theProceſſion of the Holy Ghoft, they purit in the Rank of thoſe which are more curious than edifying ;; inſomuch that That Queſtion is now paſſed over with as much Silence asformerly it made Noiſe. They keep certain Relicks as precious and ſacred Memorials, but never wor Thip them . I remember I have read in Thevet , That the Greeks of Athens excommunicate the Pope ſolemnly on Good- Friday. And the Monk Surius reports, That at Jeruſalem they pray to God every Day in a certain Part of the Pub lick Service, that he would keep them ftill un der the Dominion of the Turk, rather than ſuffer them to fall under that of Rome. And Villamont who was as rigid a Roman Catholick as Surius, has written in expreſs Terms, That they had rather ſell their Daughters to the Turks for Slaves, than marry 'em to thoſe of the Romißh Religion . After this , I ſee no Reaſon why the Gentlemen of Rime ſhould reproach the Calviniſts with the Averſion that ſome Lutherans have for them. It is commonly practiſed , tho' very unreaſonably , that the Proximity of Opinions between one Seat and another, among Chriſtians doth not cre ate any better Correſpondency betwixt them. I have alſo uſed my utmoſt Endeavours to procure ſome particular Account of the Creed The Armeni. and Worſhip of the Armenians, that I might ans at Venice are alla Sore know it from the firſt Hand ;; but I have not of Pedlars, hitherto had an Opportunity to be acquainted without either with any of them, nor have I yet been preſent Learning or at their Publick Worſhip, becauſe they are at Breeding. I have diſcours'dWork in the Repairing of their Church, and ſo with. several cannot yet aſſemble in it. One of my Friends, of ' em , and endeavour'd to get some Information, by asking 'em Queſtions, but cou'd never ob tain a reaſonable Account from any of im . And even their Prieſt ( for at that time they had but one) was as ignorant as the reſt. But I can very well ſay, that z bole who have written that the Armenians of Venice profeſs the Romith Reli gion are miſinform ; d. among Vol. I. to ITALY. 261 among o: her things, aſſur'd me of theſe four or five Articles. That they communicate under both Kinds : That they give the Sacrament to little Children : That they believe the Seque ſtration of Souls as the Greeks do : That they give a Bill of Divorce : That they believe there will be no Difference of Sexes after the Reſur rection. And after all , there are ſo many par. ticular Opinions among all theſe People, that 'tis not an eaſie Matter to determine poſitively what they believe. There are ſeveral other Particulars in my Jour nal , with which I might entertain you at pre ſent ; but I had rather joyn them to thoſe other Obſervations which I ſhall make hereafter, that I may have occaſion to add alſo ſuch new In ſtructions as I hope to receive. I was juſt now with the Abbot Lith, whom I mention'd before ; and it comes into my Mind to inform you, before I finiſh my Letter, of a Thing which he aſſur'd me of , and I ſhould have been ſorry to have forgotten, though ic has no relation to Venice. We were diſcourſing of the few numerous Families which are taken notice of here, in compariſon to other Places ; and he told me, on this occaſion , that one of his Relations had Twenty four Sons by one Wife, who were all marry'd ; and that all the Twenty four with their ſeveral Wives, had been ſeen in a Company together : Though there is nothing in this but what is very poflible , yet ' cis extreamly rare. I hope I ſhall quickly receive a Letter from you ; and you may expect another from me be fore I leave this City. I am, Venice, Jan. 20. SIR, 1688 . Your, &c. S 3 LET. 262 A New Voyage Vol. I. LETTER XVII. T SIR, Here are ſome Obſervations which I can not forbear adding to what I have already ſent you, concerning the City of Venice : For Example, the Bridge of Rialto is ſo famous a This Bridge is Piece , that I muſt not forget to ſay ſomething founded on ten of it . Venice is divided by a great Canal, of the thouſand Piles Figure of an S , and the Bridge is about the of Elm : And Middle of this Canal. When they begin to it appears by the Publick' praiſe the Structure of this work, they break Regifers, that forth into Admirations, and can find no Terms it coſt Two, but what are too weak for expreſſing their fifty thouſand energieberatand Thoughts ; but all this is purely the Effea of Ducati of Ve. Prejudice. This Bridge hathbut one Arch , and nice. (S.Did ) all the Wonder conſiſts in the Greatneſs of this Arch . I took care to meaſure it, that I might give you a certain Account of it. The Com paſs of the Arch makes exa&ly the third Part of a Circle , and there are Ninety Foot from one End, or one Extremity of the Arch to the other, on the level of the Canal : From which we may gather, that the Arch is near Twenty four Foot high. It cannot be deny'd , but that a great Building of any kind foever ,, deſerves more Conſideration than a ſmaller one ; But, in iny Opinion , it muſt alſo be confefs'd , that when they are both of the ſame Nature, and when there is not a very remarkable Difference in their Largeneſs, there is nothing more in comprehenſible in the one, than in the other. This Bridge ought not to ſtand in Compariſon > with - 13 pridg Wamma 1444 HERS 11 1 53 1 The Bride of Rialto ІШІНШІНІШІН АШІНІШИЛИ 1111 BB REF Yol. 1. .P 262. Plate , 5 , Vol. I. to ITALY 263

• The Bridge

a a Tarce busi dred Stone Archos is 9 with thoſe * great Works, ofwhich the bare un dertaking, is in ſome meaſure ſurprizing : 10 of Civencha is an Arch of a Bridge, which is ſomewhat big in Japan is ger than thoſe that are uſually built ; and this Tree hundred is all the Miracle . I might alſo put you in Mind and fixty Toi, of a Fault in the Structure of this Bridge, againit les coma and ſes long , Six and a half chat Maxim in Architecture, That to give the brozk. It is greater Strength to an Arch , it is neceſſary that as built of a irs Compaſs inake an entire Semi- circle, where- black Stone, which is al as this makes but a third Part of a Circle , as I moll as hard ' intimated before. But to ſpeak freely , I can- and ſmooth as not find any folidity in the Reaſoning of thoſe Marble; it is who eſtabliſh'd this Principle. And I conceive lispported by clearly, that when an Arch makes any Part of a Circle, let the Portion be never ſo little , if the Piles. Every Semi-circle does not wholly appear, yet it muſt stone of the be underſtood, and really exiſts in the Piles or other Foundations which reſiſt the Weight or inleng: h, Eighteen Foot Bearing of the Arch ; and ſo comes to the fame and four in thing. To be fully convinc'd of the Truth of breadth ; and what I ſay , one need but conſider , that if an there is a Ro13 of Lions of an Arch, which would deſcribe an entire Semi- extraordinary circle, were walled up, and fill'd to ſuch a height, bigneſs, on that only the Sixth Part of its Circumference each side. ſhould appear ; or if you will, a Sixth part of a Tintem is not The Bridge of Circle, this Top of the Arch would loſe nothing ſo long , but is of theForce it had before . The Bridge of the more curior , Rialto is very folidly Built, with large ſquare as confifting Pieces ofa Kind of white Marble ; there are two Stone but of. one Dutch only Rows of Shops which divide it into three Streets, Embaſſy to the great one in the midſt, and two little ones the Emp. of between the Rails and the Back - ſides of the Japan Part I. Shops. Generally the other Bridgeshave no They boaſt alſo at Nurem . Rails. You go up to them by Steps, which are berg, of their almoſt all of a certain white Stone ,' + hard and Bridge of one fingle Arch, and thoſe of St. Maurice in the Valais could do as much. † Pietra dura : of Iftria . There comes alſo abundance of it from the Iſlands of Bioni, in the Gulph , a Hundred and twenty Miles from Venice. Villamont. S4 ſlippery i 264 A New Voyage Vol. I. ſlippery ; which partly gave occaſion to the Proverb that adviſes us to beware of the Four P's of Venice, Pietra Bianca, Putana, Prete, t Pan + The Comman talone.

• • dePeople call The fineſt Houſes in Venice are upon the great the Nobles ſo. Canal ; and there are ſome which appear very The three wicked K's magnificent. They are great Maſſes orPiles of natic meb no. Building , which would have no outward Beauty, su teice were if it were not for the Mask which I mention'd in formerly Cap -my Letter from Vicenza ; II mean that Frontiſ padoces, Cre. tenfes, Cilic piece which commonly conſiſts of two or three

cienſes. Orders of Architecture, and covers the Building * As are the on that Side , which is moſt in View ; for the reſt Palaces of Pi of the out-lide is no way pleaſing to the Eye. tani, Moro. fini , Loreda- The Lagunes may cauſe you to judge eaſily ,that no, Rolini, the Air ofVenice is not very wholſom ,as a famous Vandramino , Phyſician of Ravenna has obſerv'd, ( Thomas Phi Grimani, Cornaro. lologus ) in his Treatiſe De vita Venetorum ſemper commoda. And if ’ ris the common Saying in that See in the Sup . Country, That the Air ofVenice is good, 'tis only plement, con- in Reſpect of that of ſeveral other Places in the Crning the Lagunes,where it is very bad. So are Things more Air and Wa or leſs Valuedaccording to the Compariſon that ter of Venice . is made of ' em, with better or worſe of the ſame Nature. The Water, is almoſt all very bad too. Of a great Number of Wells which are in this Ciry, there are but very few good for any thing. The beſt Water is the Rain- Water which ſome private Perſons preſerve in Ci ſterns ; that they fetch from the Brenta . The com -mon Wines are alſo very unplea fant; that which they call ( dolce ) ſweet , is to the French Palates of a diſguſtful Taſte ; and the (Garbo or Bruſco) sowr, on the contrary is extreamly ſharp. After they have drawn off the pure Liquor , they mix Water with sthe Stalks and Skins ofGrapes , that they may ſqueeze ſome ſharpneſs from them . " Tis alſo fome Vol. 1. to ITALY 265 ſometimes mixt with Lime, Allum , &c. which gives it ſome piquant Briskneſs , but makes it very harſh ; beſides , this Mixture palls and weakens the Wine, which was not very ſtrong before. They have alſo a very ill Way of ma king their Bread; let it be as freſh as you will, the Dough has been Bruis'd ſo much and is fo . hard , that you muſt break it as they do Bisket, with a Hammer. In other reſpects the Enter tainment is pretty good , in the French Inns, which are the only Places where you may be tolerably accommodated in. Strangers have ſo little Commerce with the Natives of this Country, that it is difficult to learn their Cuſtoms, and Manners of Houſe keeping : And therefore I cou'd give you but a very imperfect Account of theſe things. I read the other Day in a Preface of Henry Eſtienne, that in his Time, they had an ill Opinion in France, of a Woman who diſcover'd her Neck ; where as in Italy, and particularly at Venice, every old Hag expos’d her wither'd and ſwagging Breaſts to view . But things are much * chang'd fince * There are his time . At preſent the Women of Quality are none but pro ſhut feſſed Coarte up ſo cloſe, that you can ſcarcely ſee their zans, who ſhew Face ; not even in the Churches, which are the their Necks only Places where they uſually appear in Pub- bare. lick . When they go abroad, they are ſhut up in their Gondola's, and accompanied with two old Women, who never leave them . The ordinary Women cover themſelves with a great Scarf, which opens only a little , before their Eyes ; and they go abroad but rarely, becauſe the Men buy Proviſions , and take care of all Buſineſs without Doors. They ſend the Girls to Monaſteries in their Infancy ; and diſpoſe of ' em in Marriage with . out their Knowledge , and even frequently , without ji 266 A New Voyage Vol.i. ز without letting them ſee their future Husbands. That you may not be ſurprized at this, you are to know, that they make not commonly Marria ges here, under the ſame Notions, and with the fame Deſigns as they do in other places. They don't trouble themſelves with Love, Affe & ion, or Eſteem , in this caſe. If any of thoſe Conve niencies happen, ſo much the better ; but they mind nothing but Kindred and Riches. The uſe of Concubines is ſo generally receiv'd , that the greateſt Part of the Wives live in good Cor reſpondence with their Rivals ; and ' tis that makes amends for the perſonal Defects of the married Women. There is alſo another Way of Concubinage, very much ufed by thoſe who are ſubject to ſome ſcruples of Conſcience ; which is indeed a great Rarity at Venice. It is a Kind of clandeftine Marriage, the Ceremony of which is not perform'd but a long Time after the Con fummation ; and commonly not till a few Days, or Hours perhaps,before the Death of one of the Parties. The Men find this Method convenient , becauſe it keeps the Women in perpetual Awe, and conftant Complaiſance, being in daily Fear of being turn'd off. I know a rich Merchant who hath lived thus for above Twenty Years with his Female Conipanion. When he is in a good Humour,he promiſes to marry her before he dies, and make their Children his Heirs. But the moſt uſual Practice is, to live on the Com mon , at ſo long kept , ſo much paid, until the firft Deſire of Change, without fixing on any certain Perſon either for Wife or Concubine. Thoſe who are not rich enough to keep a Miſs for their own Uſe , joyn with two or three Friends ; and this Plurality , which would in e ther Places be inſupportable, does in this Place ſerve only to gie the Knor of Friendſhip firmer berween Vol. I. to ITALY. 267 0 between Companions in the fame Fortune . Li bertiniſm , concerning the Women, is turn'd ſo common and general a Cuſtom , that, to ſpeak truly, it takes away all Senſe and Remembrance of Sin. As ' tis one of the Maxims of thoſe Politicks, to bring up all Perſons in Effeminacy, and eſpecially the young Nobility : The Mo thers are the firſt who find out Courteſans for their Sons, that they may keep 'em from falling into contagious Pits ; and when they have made a Bargain with the Father and Mother for fome young Maiden; all the Relations ofthis poor Girl comein cold Blood, to wiſh her Joy, as if it were for a Marriage lawfully contracted. It is ſome thing peculiar enough to ſee a Mother deliver up her Daughter for a certain Sum of Money, to be paid by the Month or Year ; and ſwear ſolemnly by God , and upon her Salvation, that The cannot afford her for leſs. We muſt not ſay, that all Mothers would do the ſame, but ' tis cer tainly a Thing commonly practiſed. I was in forined by a good Catholick, that the Confeffors are not willing to be troubl’d with ſuch Pecca dillo's ; they will not hear fuch Trifles , but ask preſently , qualch' altra coſa : True or not , ' ris become a Proverb at Venice. There are none but ſome fooliſh Foreign Courteſans, who by a kind of nice Scruple which they brought from their own Countries, will have ſome Maſs faid upon their Account. It is true, this cofts them buc little ,becauſe thoſe whom they employ have alſo need of their Afliſtance ; ſo thatthey are kind to each other ; and it is not difficult ſo to order Affairs , that they may have no occafion to be out of Pocker. There are whole Streets of that Sort of Ladies of Pleaſure , who receive all Comers; and whereas the Habits of other Per Sons are Black and Melancholy , theſe are dreſt in นี้ : 12 268 A New Voyage Vol. I. in Red and Yellow, like Tulips ; with their Breaſts open,, their Faces painted a Foot deep, and always a Noſegay on the Ear : You may ſee them ftanding by Dozens at the Doors or Windows ; and the Paſſers by ſeldom 'ſcape without torn Sleeves. The Carnaval begins always the ſecond Holi day after Chriſtmas; that is , from that Time Peo ple are permitted to wear Masks, and to open the Play -Houſes, and the Gaming -Houſes. Then they are not ſatisfied with the ordinary Liberti niſm , they improve and refine all their Pleaſures, and plunge into them up to the Neck. The whole City is diſguis'd. Vice and Vertue are never ſo well counterfeited, and both the Names and Uſe of 'em is abſolutely chang’d. The Place of St. Mark is fill'd with a Thouſand forts of Jack-Puddings. Strangers and Courteſans come in Shoals from all parts of Europe : There is every where a general Motion and Confuſion, as if the World were turn'd Fools all in an In ftant. It is true, that the Fury of theſe Bacchae nals does not riſe ſuddenly to the height ; there is fome moderation in the beginning ; but when they begin to be ſenſible of the dreaded approach of the fatal Wedneſday, which impoſes an univer ſal Silence , then they celebrate their grear Feafts , and all without referve. Since it is true, that every thing muſt be aſcrib'd to the Policy in Venice, you muſt ſuppoſe there are par ticular Reaſons for the permitting of this Licen. tiouſneſs during the Carnaval; but perhaps too we need not look for any Myſtery. Two Things come into my Mind on this Occaſion. The common People always love Sports and other Divertiſements. As abominable as that Monſter Nero was, he was lamented by the Rabble be cauſe of his Shows. I'm apt to think then, that the ز 10 Vol. I. to ITALY. 269 وام ۵۲۰ the Nobility , who otherwiſe are not much be as loved , are glad to find ſome cunning ways to shath pleaſe and amuſe the People. At the laſt Car ali naval , there were ſeven Sovereign Princes , and thulas many Thouſand other Foreigners : How much tak Money all this Multitude muſt bring to Venice ? ' Tis the other Thing that ſeems to me of ſome C Moment. Time I muft, according to your Deſire, give you adun e my Sentiment of the Opera's and Comedies that Howler 7 are acted here ; tho' in the mean time, I muſt may like confeſs I cannot without reluctancy enter upon eir late this Subject ; becauſe I fear I ſhall in your Opi Tack ! nion be efteem'd too ſingular in mine. You ſeem to me to be extreamly prepoſſeſſed in fa el that your of theſe famous Shows ; and I percieve you expect ſomething that may exceed the Idea Guia da of 'em , which you have already. I entreat you Cum 'then , to ſet aſide all your Prejudices, and to be vreme.1. lieve I will do the ſame , that I may be able to I Con give you an impartial Account of Things as I Tu find them. I will do it in few Words, with out criticiſing on Opera's in general, in which I have always been offended at ſome Paſſages 53083 which ſeem contrary both to Probability and Reaſon. But ſince you will have it ſo , let us ſuppoſe that the Repreſentation of an Opera, is the beſt contriv'd Thing in the World ; and I Sind " will keep my ſelf within the Bounds you have it'd 10' preſcribed me, which is to ſpeak to you with crede af310 relation to the Opera's you have ſeen at Paris. L. It is undeniable Matter of fact, that the Orna berhasi' ments and Decorations of theſe, here, fall ex . reamly ſhort of the others. The Habits are poor, there are no Dances, and commonly no and a fineMachines, nor any fine Illuminations ; only zat Mora fomeCandles here and there, which deſervenot to be mentioned. Whoever ſays the contrary, muſt be either a Fool or blind. Tis SimNT Sa i chal ز | T ako i Rabele 270 A New Voyage Vol. 1. ' Tis dangerous not to magnifie the Italian Mu fick, or at leaſt to ſay any thing againſt it. Nor will I inſiſt on this Subject, but confefs, in the general, that they have moſt excellent Ayres, and there are good Voices among them. The Vicentine Singerof the Hoſpitalettes is, for Exam ple , a little enchanting Creature. But I cannot forbear telling you, that I find a certain Confu fion and Unpleaſantneſs in ſeveral Parts of their Singing in thoſe Opera's : They dwell many times longer on one Quavering, than in ſinging Four whole Lines ; and oftentimes they run ſo faſt, that 'tis hard to tell whether they Sing or Speak, or whether they do neither of the Two and both together. Every one has his own Hu mour ; and for my part , I muſt confeſs, their exceſſive Quaverings agrees not with me, tho’ it requires a great deal of Practice and Trouble to attain to it; and tho' ' tis extreamly grateful to the Ears of thoſe people. The Symphony is much ſmaller than at Paris ; but perhaps, it is never the worſe for that. There is alſo one Thing which charms them, which I believe would not pleaſe you ; I mean thoſe unhappy Men who bafely ſuffer themſelves to be maimed, that they may have the finer Voices. The filly Figure ! which , in my opinion, ſuch a muti lated Fellow makes, who ſometimes acts the Bully , and ſometimes the Paſſionate Lover, with his Effeminate Voice, and wither'd Chin is ſuch a thing to be endured ? It is impoſſible, that ſuch Perſons can have that Vigour and Fire, which is neceſſary for the Beauty of Action ; and indeed, there is nothing more cold and languid than the manner after which they act their Parts . There are at preſent Seven ſeveral Opera's at Venice, which Strangers, as we are, are in a manner 1 Vol. I. to ITALY. 271 manner oblig'd to frequent, knowing not, fome times, how to ſpend an Evening any where elſe. But ſince you would have me ſpeak ingenuouſly, Imuſt tell you, that I impatiently expected the end of the Piece, before we had heard a quar ter of it. You muſt know there is a Buffoon in every Opera ; and you may imagine what a Fi ( gure this Actor makes with his Fooleries in a moſt ſerious, and even ſometimes moſt tragical Part of the Play. I will ſay little of cheir Comedies ; all the World knows they are but * ridiculous and * Formerly wretched Buffooneries, jumbld together without they composid any Order or Coherency. Nevertheleſs, let regular Pieces, which Moli. them be never ſo filly , there is always ſome Gri- ere kimſelf mace, with ſome Poſture or Trick of Harlequin, made uje of. that makes the Spectators laugh. The moſt lu- Comedies are ſcious Bawdy Thing is pronounced there in the only atted dis ring the Care moſt expreſſive Terms, and the Damſels of thoſe naval. Societies never mince the Matter. Some time At the Doors after they have begun either an Opera or Co. of the Theatres there are al medy, they commonly open the Doors for ſome Gondoliers or Watermen, eſpecially thoſe that Bravo's who belong to the Nobles, who make a conſiderable are ready to Body at Venice, and are very neceſſary Perſons. execute the Their Office on this Occaſion is to applaud the Noblemen to Orders of the Actors by clapping their Hands, and ſhouting whom the The like Madmen. I won't neither expreſs, nor make atres belong you conceive what Terms they uſe, when they congratulate the Women ; whoreceive alſo other u Applauſes, by Sonnets made for them , and print ed, which fometimes fly about the whole The ater. Before I finiſh this Article , I muſt tell you, that theſe Theatres belong to ſome Noble get conſiderably by them, tho' chey continue no longer than the Carnaval laſts. The Places which they call Ridotti, are pro perly Academies of Baſſet : They are open'd at the ways ſome 6:04 313 L verum men, who Dreams در سن ۔ A New Voyage 272 Vol. I. in all . the ſame time with the Theatres ; and there are none but Noble-men who keep the Bank. They diſmiſs the Gamefters when they pleaſe ; and they have ſo much good Fortune joyn’d to their Privileges and Skill, that the Bank is always the There are a Winner. There are Ten or Twelve Chambers bout 60 Ga. on a Floor, with Gaming-Tables in all of them. ming - Tables You can ſcarcely turn your ſelf in them ; but tho’the Throng is ſo great , yet there is always a profound Silence. None are permitted to en ter into theſe Places without Masks : at leaſt a Poſtiche Noſe, or a Muſtachio. The Courteſans come thither in Shoals ; and other Ladies alſo, who under the Shelter of their Masks may enjoy all the publick Pleaſures of the Carnaval ; but they are ſtill follow'd by Spies, or by their Hus bands. Beſides the Chambers for Gaming, there are ſome Rooms for Converſation,wherethey al ſo ſell Liquors Sweet-meats and ſuch -like Things. Nobody puts off his Mask, or Noſe ; and by the Privilege of this Diſguiſe, provided a Man be pretty well dreſs’d, he may ſpeak to the Ladies, and even to thoſe whom he may ſuppoſe to be of the higheſt Quality : but muſt carefully avoid either the Saying or Doing of any thing that may give Offence, for the Mask is Sacred ; and one will ſeem to take no notice of what is ſaid to his Wife, that has many Bravo's at his Devo tion at the Doors : You know by that Name they call their Hectors and profeſs'd Murderers. In materia * Not that it is abſolutely impoſſible to act a di Dunne , bso ſucceſsful Piece ofGallantry with the beſt guard ta in Venetia ed Lady of ' em all , when they are not over ſe av denari ; vere. As the Difficulty augments Deſire, ſo this Si arriva au- Deſire invents the Means ; and thoſe who under cbealcibo di ſtand the Practice of this Country, will do more qualche Borsene. Nobile with an Ogling Glance, than in other Coun tries by the longest Alfiduities : But all theſe 1 4 haver maniera things Vol. I. to ITALY 273 things are out of my Sphere, and therefore I muſt beg Leave to go no further. The greateſt Maſquerading is in the Place of St. Mark ; where the Croud is ſometimes ſo great , that one cannot turn himſelf. You may put your ſelf in what Equipage you pleaſe, but to do it well, youmuſt be able to maintain the Character of the Perſon whoſe Dreſs you have taken. Thus, for Example, when the Harlequins meet, they jeer one another, and act a thouſand Fooleries. The Doctors diſpute ; the Bullies va pour and ſwagger ; and ſo of the Reſt. Thoſe who are not willing to be Actors on this great Theatre, take the Habit of Noblemen ; ſome Po lonian Dreſs, or the like, which obliges them to nothing. The Maskers are not permitted to wear Swords. The Women are alſo habited as chey pleaſe, andſome of 'em appear in moſt magnificent Dreſſes. At the ſame time the Place is filled with Puppet-ſhows, Rope- Dancers, and all ſuch Sorts of People as you ſee in London at * Bartholomew - Fair. But thoſe which in my Opi- * This Fair 年 nion are the pleaſanteſt of all , are a Kind of has been fuper Almanack -makers and Fortune-tellers,who have preſs’d in their little Stages environ’d with Spheres,Globes, Aſtronomical Figures, Characters, and conju ring Books of all sorts . Theſe Pronouncers of Oracles have a long Tin Pipe, thro' which they ſpeak in the Ear of the Curious, who ſtand be low the Scaffold. They ſay more or leſs , ac cording to the various Characters of the Con ſulters , and without ſeeming to take any notice, obſerve their Countenance. When theyperceive they ſmile, or by ſome other Geſture denote their Approbation, they give over ſpeaking a little, and ring a little Bell with wonderfulGra vity , to intimate, that by virtue of their Art, they have dived into a very ſecret Affair, and T fuc 1709. 274 New Voyage Vol.i. ſucceeded very happily in their Divining. When they ſwear only per Dio, it ſignifies nothing; thar is only a common Phraſe which , no body re gards. But when they would be believed, they call to witneſs the Saint of Padua, or the moſt bleſſed Lady of Loretto, and then all the Specta tors put on a ſerious Face,and pull off their Hats as devoutly as if they were ſinging a Pſalm at the Gallows. It is pleaſant to ſee Prieſts and Monks of all Orders, ſo bufie about that Pipe, that one wou'd think they fanſie no body has Buſineſs to enquire after but themſelves. Conſult S. Dia I will ſay nothing of the Bull- baitings, Gooſe dier's Book. catching , Combats at Coups de poing , Balls , Races in Gondola's , or of their Feafting on Shrove-Thurſday , on which Day they cut off a Bull's- Head, before the whole Senate , in me mory of a Victory obtain'd in the Friul. Theſe Stories are too long to be related ; and may be found in ſeveral Books. The Carnaval is not the only Time in which theywear Masksat Venice. They uſe 'em in all Feaſts of Pleaſure : With the Mask they run to the Audiences of Ambaffadors : And on Aſcen fion - Day all are masked from the Noblemen in the Bucentauro , to the Mob in the Streets . All there are admirable Times for the Gondoliers,; not only becauſe of the Profit it brings them by their Gondola's , but becauſe it is a Time of In trigues; and aa Gondolier will undertake any thing, They are acquainted with all the Turns and Windings ; they pretend to know the critical Minutes, and the private Stairs, and to hold Correſpondence with the Waiting -Women. They furniſh Ladders of Cords on occaſion ; they promiſe in your Ear, to bring you to Pla ces eſteemed otherwiſe inacceſſible ; In a word, they are for all Uſes, and in caſe of Neceflity would a WHAVIWEMULIN -- B1 로 Plate 6. Vol.2 . Pag.275 JA Common Gondolo JSOU 11 Vol. I. to ITALY... 275 از would perform the Trade of Bravo's. Their great Buſineſs is Pimping : They offer, with out asking , to depoſite a Sum of Money, and loſe it, if their Wares prove unfound. You may have Gondola's, either for ſo much to ſuch a Place , or at ſo much an Hour, as you hire Coaches in London or Paris. But it is more convenient to keep one for your own Uſe , and chis coſts but little : For you may have one of the beſt for the Value of five or fix Shillings a Day. The Gondola's of Venice are very pretty Things, They are from they are light, and of a pleaſant Structure ; you 30 to 32 foot long, andbroad are very conveniently feated in them , underco- from 4 to 5. ver, as in a Coach , with Glaſſes on every ſide . The Left is the Place of Honour ; and the Rea fon which they give, is, becauſe he who ſits on the Right-hand, cannot ſee the Gondolier before , and conſequently cannot ſo eaſily command him. Theſe Men are excellent Maſters of their Trade : they turn , ftop, and avoid one another, with a ſurprizing nimbleneſsand dexterity : They ſtand and manage the Oar in ſuch a manner, that their Faces are turn'd towards the Place to which they go ; whereas the Wherry-men on the Thames, and almoſt every where elſe, fit and advance, by going backwards. All the Gondola's are painted black, in purſuance of an As of the State ; and the little Cabbin is alſo cover'd with black Cloach or Serge. But Strangers may have ' em of other Colours, if they wil be at the Charge , which ſeldom happens;;few ftaying at Venice longer than theTime ofthe Carnaval. Lent is no fooner come, but all that Multitude begins to diſlodge : Travellers , Puppet- Players , Bears, Monſters, and andCourteſans; by Courteſans, I mean thoſe canbrings from the Neighbouring Kingdoms; for they take care , at Venice,that none of their own Country prove Deſerters. Before I leave .Lo 3 T 2 . 276 A New Voyage Vol. 1 1 leave the Gondola's, I muſt tell you, that thoſe which belong to Ambaſſadors are extream ly fine ; they are larger than ordinary , and their Ornaments are as ſumptuous as thoſe of the moſt magnificent Coaches. Theſe Mi niſters have commonly four or five ; and ' tis in theſe Gondola's they make their Publick En tries. The Arſenal of Venice paſſes for one of the faireſt and greateſt of Europe ; and all the World agree , that it is a moſt important Piece. But it is to be conſidered, that it is the only one which the Venetians have in Ita ly ; and conſequently that all they have is They show as lodg’d there . ' And beſides , half the Stories Piece of Can , that are told of it are not true. Thoſe who non which was ſhow it to Strangers wou'd make 'embelieve, made while a Doge was et that there are Two thouſand five hundred Dinner : It is Pieces of Cannon : good Arms for a Hun in the 22d dred thouſand Foot : and compleat Equipa Lodge. Henry the Third wasges for Twenty five thouſand Horfe ;Thefe Treated in the are Words ſoon ſpoken , but not ſo eaſily made 234 ; and du- good. You muſt further obſerve , that the ring the time Incloſure of this Arſenal comprehends alſo the of the Colla . tion,theybuile Magazines forthe Veſſels, Melting Houſes, one wholeGal. Rope- Yards, Forges , Lodges for the Galle. ley, and caſt ailes, Gallies , and the Bucentaure : beſides the three Carnon. Havens, and Docks for Building and Refit Payen. ting of Veſſels. This is what occaſions the extraordinary Largeneſs of the Arſenal. They have ſome Men of War, of which the grea teft called the Redeemer , hath , as they tell us , Fourſcore Pieces of Cannon mounted , and Fourteen Paterero's ;; ' tis , at preſent , at Sea. The Galleaſles have Three Batteries in the Prow, and Two in the Poop ; the Crew ought to conſiſt of One hundred and nine ty two Galley- Slaves , at Six on a Bench. The y S DOM AI IT EEL 1 1 Vol.2 , Pag , 277 Plate 7 . WJA Bucentaure জ gG নান্তা ইঞ্জিভীষণীউর্মী যাত্রদীঞ্জে । . Vol. I. to ITALY 277 The * Bucentaure is a kind of a vaſt Galleafle, * Navilio che very much adorn'd with Sculptures and Gilding. dalle trombe; The Doge, accompanied with the Senate, and a & altri Stro. great Number of the Nobility, every Year, on menti che ri Aſcenſion-day , goes on Board this Veffel with fuonano den tro , ha con great Pomp † to marry the Sea. The Ship leguito il which they made uſe of when Alexander III nome di Bu. inſtituted this Ceremony , in confirmation to Centauro. A !. the Venetians of that * Empire , which , they some fay, that Mar. Vianoli ſay ſaid , they were already poſſeſs'd of over the the firſt of Gulf, was call'd the Bucentaure ; and ſince that theſe villes time, they have ſtill kept this Name, and con- had the Figure of a Ceni aur ſecrated it to all the Veſſels deſtined to that in the Stern ,, Ceremony. The Captain of the Bucentaure and that all makes the preſumptuous Oath , the Day when that were built he is received , that he engages his Life,, that afterwards he willbring her back ſafe andſound, in ſpite offame Name.. all Winds and Tempeſts whatſoever. They add, that the Particle Bu fignify'd Grear, in the Dialect then in uſe at Venice, † As if they became the Husbands of Theris, or the Wives of Neptune, they wed the sea every year . ( Lewis Helian .) Henry III, went from Venice, to Murano, in the Bucentaure. Mezeray.

• There is a Treatiſe concerning the Dominion of the State or Ripublick of Venice, in the Gulf, written by Cyril Michelli.

A conſiderable Part of the Arſenal was con- It was burnt ſum'd by Fire, in the Year 1565 ; and ' cis ſaid, before in 1507. that the Cracks of the Burning were heard at Forty Miles Diſtance. There are three Nobles who have the Management of it ; and the Galle aſſes are alſo commanded by Nobles : All conſide rable Employmentspaſſing through their Hands. I acknowledge, it is not an eale Matter to re turn particular Anſwers to the ſeveral Queſtions you propoſe, concerning their Dignity , and the great Figure their Name makes in the World. You know , that at Venice , as well as elſewhere, that which they call Nobility, according to the Ta com 278 t A New Voyage Vol. I.

common Acceptation of the Word, conſiſts only in Fancy and Opinion , as almoſt all other Things in the World do. 'Tis true , that the So are the Noble Venetians are born with a certain * Charaa Nobles, or eter of Sovereignty ; becauſe they compoſe the Lords,or Peers Grand Council, that which forins and animates whoſe of England Tirles , all the other Councils ; which deſerves ſome Con conter on them fideration. But after all , this Reaſon is not sa not only the tisfactory ; for the Nobles of Genoua may boaft Prerogativeof of the ſame Privilege. Things are uſually e nour Rank, and Ho.fteem'd accordingto the Value which is put up them High on them : and the Noble Venetians are diftin Magiſtrates, guiſhed, becauſe they knew how to diſtinguiſh 15 Members of themſelves. They have found it to be their In the Firſt Court of Juſticein tereft , to carry on the Value and Honour of The Kingdom . their Nobility , beyond all Eftimation. They have ſometimes parallel'd it with Princes of Royal Blood. They pretend, that their Dignity ſwallows up all the Titles that are affum'd by Henry III of others : And even ſomecrown's Heads have en France receie nobled it, by condeſcending to enter into that ved theQuali- Body, and marrying Women belonging to ſome ty of 4 Noble of their families. Theſe are the Methods by a Venetian, Alexander which they rais'd themſelves to ſuch a Degree likewiſe ac- of Honour. Moreover, tho? there is but one cepted the Ti. : Order of Nobles at Venice, yet they bear not ofsle Corinth of Burgessall equally theGrande ſupercilium , which Juve mal ſpeaks of; the Commands, the Offices, great Wealth , and ancient Extraction, make new Di ſtinctions among them . And though , as I told you, they value their Nobility at an infinite rate, you muſt not from hence conclude, that this Ticle may not be communicated, for a certain Sum of Money. After all , they muſt ſtill remember, their High Pretenſions are of little Service to ' em when they travel into Foreign Countries, ( which is very rare ). Every little Prince may aſſume to himſelf the Title of King > a in Vol. I. to ITALY 279 sorts of Coo in his own Court, and tickle his Ears with hear ing it repeated by his Servants and Vaffals ; but the main Buſineſs is , to make himſelf to be own'd as ſuch alſo by other Princes. The Truth is , that in Foreign Courts they do not much concern themfelves about the Knowledge of the Idea's of the Broglio upon that Matter , how ever they do not refuſe to allow thoſe Gentle men Abundance of Deference and Reſpect ; as I have juſt now obſerv'd. The Nobles never appear publickly at Venice but in their Robes of Paduan black Cloth : * for- * Fedele O. merly blue , ſays Mr. Didier. A certain Perſon nofri, in his Chronologis has written, that theſe Robes ought to be lin'd Veneta , Jays, with Pettygris in Winter, and with Ermins in That thele Summer ;; But whether ' tis a Miſtake , or the Robes were Cuſtom is chang’d: they are allow'd to put what formerly of a ? Lining they pleaſe , provided the Robe be oflours, Chap.2. Clothmade of Paduan Wooll, as I have ſaid, ac cording to Mr. S. Didier, and other well-informed Perſons. However ' tis true ,, that according to the Cuſtom , the Doubling or Tårning.up of the Lining in the Winter, is of one of the two ſaid Furrs. The Doge's Counſellors ; the Pro curators of St. Mark ; the Chiefs ofthe Council of Ten ; the Savii Grandi ; and the Savii of Terra firma , have not their Robes made after the ſame manner as that of the reſt of the Nobility, and it may be of Camlet, in the Summer. The Stola which formerly was faften'd al Capuccio or Baretta, according to Onofri, ought to be of the ſame Cloth ofthe Robe. The Girdle is black alſo ,about fourFingers broad , and garniſh'd with Plates and Buckles of Silver ; and their † Bonnet is only at Baretta. kind of Cap ofblack Wooll Worſted, with a lit - W ben it rains tle Fringe of the ſame : But they wear long Pe they på their Cap upon their rukes, and commonly carry their Capsintheir Heard and :he Hands. The Procurators of St. Mark , the Savii Sioleover ati . grandi ز T 4

280 A New Voyage Vol. 1. grandi, and the reſt , who are Poffeffors of the * The Doge's higheſt Offices, are diſtinguiſh'd by peculiar Counſellors Habits .' || Thoſe among the Nobles, who have wear - Scarletbeen Ambaſſadors , may wear a Stole of Cioath Robe , while they are in of Gold, and put Buckles of Gold to their Gir Office. The dles : But uſually they only adorn their black chief of the Stoles with aa little Gold Galloon. The Phyfi Quarantie Criminelle cians , Advocates, Notaries, and all thoſe who uſe one of a are called Cittadini, are habited like the Nobles, Violet colour, without any Diſtinction. It would not always and different be convenient for theſe ' to be known by their fashion . The 8 vii Grandi Habits ; for ſuch a Diſtinction might expoſe wear a Violet them to great Dangers , ſhould any Diſorder celour'd Robe happen. They aſſume the Title of Excellency, of another fa. andthe moſt fubmiflive way of faluting them shion. is to kiſs their Sleeve. The Elbow of this Sleeve is like a great Bag, and into that, thoſe who go to Market put their Proviſions. They are not followed by any Servants, and no Perſon ſalutes them , but he who knows them , except thoſe ! They are who wear the famie Robe. The People fear Calid Knights them , and love them but little ; but I will not of theGolden ſaythat this proceeds fromany ill Treatment Stole. they goAmbal they receive from them. Since Friendſhip is fadors to the uſually the Effect of Familiarity or Converſa Courts of great tion, I rather ſuppore, that the Reaſon is, becauſe Princes, the the Nobles are familiar with no body. , Princeto whom They they are fent, dare not make themſelves popular , left they in compliance ſhould be accuſed of Caballing againſt the State. with an an- The fame Reaſon hinders them from viſiting one cient Cuſtom , comfers the tiTi another ; and renders them almoſt inacceffible to tle orQuality Foreigners. It muſt be acknowledg’d, that this of Knighthood aspon ' em, and at the ſametime preſents ' em with the Sword, with which the Ceremony was perform’d ; so that ibele Knights of the Golden Stole , are not properly Venecian Knights, bus Engliſh, French, or Spanish Knights, &c . The Noble ---- Soranzo, one of the Ambaſadors Extraordinary, ſent to the King of England, Anno 1696, was Krighted by Ilis Majeſty. Venier, the other Ame balader, had receiv'd the Same Honour before, is another Embaly. ſavage Plate 8Vol.1.P . 281. ThDoge of Veniſe ANT 1 320K AL alex Fut Vanitas Vanitatum PENA le,ako så 1 میرا foto X Q Vol. I. to ITALY 281 ſavage and ſour Policy is very troubleſome. It is hard, that a Government cannot be happy without deſtroying the Bands and Communica tions of Society, which are the chief Pleaſures of this Life ! I muſt further tell you , on this Subject, that the Nobility is not entaild upon the Elder Sons only, as in England ; and that they are neither permitted to trade at all , nor to marry with Foreigners. I find you are puzzld about the Titles of Marqueſſes and Counts which you hear men tion'd in the Countries depending on Venice. To unriddle the Myſtery, you muſt know , that the Noble Venetians pretend to be equal to Princes, but never qualify themſelves by any particular Title : And that the Marqueſſes and Counts you ſpeak of, are no Nobles of Venice. Theſe Gentlemen are of three Sorts : fome of them really enjoy'd theſe Dignities, before they be came Subjects to this State, when they belong to the Empire, or Spain , in Friuli in the Berga maſco and elſewhere ,but have loſt the Privileges of their Titles, and keep only the Name. The Venetians have always made it their buſineſs to humble them , and to deprive ' em of every thing that might either tempt or enable 'em to ſhake off the Yoke, or return under the Dominion of their ancient Maſters ; and one of the Ways which they have taken for this purpoſe , was to create new Counts , who might make Head a gainſt the others, and ſo take away the Diftin dion by a Confuſion of vain Titles, which have the fame Sound. The other Advantages which Venice draws from this Invention, would engage me in too long a Digreffion ; I only mention'd it, that you might underſtand what are the Mar queſſes and Counts of the Firſt and Second Or der. Thoſe of the Third are founded on ſome Preten 282 A New Voyage Vol. I. tage by it. Pretenfions of their Anceſtors. If they were not altogether Counts, in the Time of the an cient Government, they had at leaſt a great Deſire to be fo : and when the Face of Affairs was chang'd , they made themſelves Counts, I know not how , without any Endeavours uſed to hinder them, becauſe theygot no real Advan I find that you are miſinform'd in fome Parti culars relating to the Doge. You muſt conceive, that the Doge, conſider'd as Doge, is but a meer Figure of a Prince, an animated Statue, and a Chimera of Grandour. He puts me in mind of thoſe two Perſons who at the Coronation of your Kings, bear the Nameof the Dukes of Agui tain and Normandy. It is ſo far out of the Doge's Power to pardon any Criminal , as you have been inform'd, that you may aſſure your ſelf his new Quality diminiſheth his Credit very much, if itdoth not abſolutely reduce it to no thing. ' Tis true, the Doge is encompaſſed with many Marks of Honour, but none of thoſe pro perly relate to him : For they belong only to his Repreſentative Quality, likethe Privilege which Ambaſſadors have to be cover'd when they ſpeak to thePrinces to whom they are fent. The Doge is the Image or Repreſentative of the Republick , whoſe pleaſure it is to reflect its Glory upon him, as it were to eaſe it ſelf ofthe trouble of it ; yer appropriating to it ſelf all the Honours he re ceives. And thoſe Honours to which the Qua lity of Doge entitles him, are not paid to him who is inveſted with it , but that they may be immediately transferr'd to the State ,which ſeems to have only ſet him up for that purpoſe. This is ſo true, that to hinder the Doge from abuſing thoſe Honours which are only to pafs from him , as through a Canal , they appoint Counſellors, who Vol. I. to ITALY 283 who have a conſtant Eye over him, and may viſit his Cloſet when ever they pleaſe. He can not take a Journey to the Continent , withouc Permiſſion from the State ; and when he goes, cho' with Leave, all his Honours vaniſh there, and he hath no more Authority than another Noble. From the firſt Moment of his Election , all his Relations who were in Offices are im mediately turn'd out : And when he dies, the State wears no Mourning. This, Sir, is the true Idea you ought to have of the Doge of Venice. I will farther add , that if, notwithſtanding all the Care they take to curb his Power, he ſhould endeavour to break out beyond his Sphere, ſuch Orders are taken as would preſently reſtrain him. The Doge is as much ſubject to the Laws, as the meaneſt Perſon. ; and the Inquiſition of the Stare is a Scourge, which ſeems to threaten him more particularly than others. I ſuppoſe you are acquainted with the unlimited Power of this Tribunal, which you muſt reckon to be as rigorous and ſevere, as the other Inquiſi tion at Venice is patient, and free from rigour and ſeverity. I return to the Doge ; for you muſt know, that notwithſtanding all his Slavery, and the Smallneſs of his Authority , his Quality of Doge entitles him to ſome Privileges. He hath two Voices in the great Council : He beſtows the petty Offices of the Palace ; and hath the Nomination of the Primicerio, and Canons of St. Mark. As for his other Honours, they are given to the Republick, as I have already in form'd you, in the Perſon of the Doge. In this Senſe he is call’d Prince, and treated with Serem nity, which is a Term the Emperor uſes in ſpeak ing to Kings, reſerving the Title of Majeſty for himſelf alone. There are ſome Marks of Roy alcy 284 A New Voyage Vol. I. Arms, and n9 Baske Canopy in the alty in his Habits and Apparel. Whenhe mar. ches in State, they carry a Wax - Candle before * This Chair him, * a Folding Chair ; the Cuſhion which be bath two longs to it ; Eight Silver Trumpets ; ſome Hauc boys ; and Eight Standards; on which are the Arms of Venice : There are two White, two Red, two Violet, and two Blue, which , 'tis faid , fig nifie Peace, War, Truce, and League. They made us take notice , that the Two red ones marched firſt , becauſe the Republick was at pre fent in War. In Time of Peace the White ones have the Precedency ;; and ſo of the reſt, They carry alſo near the Doge , a kind of Canopy, There is no made like an Umbrello. He is uſually accom Doge's Aparta panied by the Nuncio; and the other Ambaffa. ment, not even dors which are at Venice, except the Ambaſſade in theHal, of Spain, who never aſſiſts at any publick Cere where he gives mony, ſince the State gave the Precedency to Audience to the Ambaſlador of France. Theſe Miniſters have Ambaſſadors. There are Ca- their Hats on their Heads. As for the Doge, nopies every he never pulls off his Corno, but on one of theſe two Occaſions; either at the Moment when the Gonfalonni. er's Lodging , Hoft is elevated , or when he receives a Viſit Hi Lucca. from a Prince of Royal Blood, or from a Car dinal. I muſt tell you, by the way, that Car dinals fit in the ſame great Chair with the Doge ; this Chair having a Spring or Machine made on purpoſe to let it out , ſo as two Per fons may fit together : And the Doge gives the Right- hand to Cardinals. But to return to the Proceſſion : The Principal Senators march after, and the Sword of State is carried before them, to denote that the Authority reſides in the Council , and not in the Doge. I am not well enough inform'd of the Particulars of the reſt of this March, to give you an exact Deſcrip tion of it ; but it is not very material. I muſt farther acquaint you, that the Money bears the where in the Name Vol. I. to ITALY 285 Name of the Doge : That the Letters of the Confederate Princes and States are directed to him : That he gives Audience to Ambaſſadors, and that Declarations are publish'd in his Name. Theſe laft Particulars need ſome Explanation : ' Tis true , the Name of the Doge is, on the Money, but his Arms are not; and his Image is there only Hiſtorically. This Money is pro perly the Coin of Venice. On the Reverſe is the Doge on his Knees, at the foot of the Primi cerio, who ſits and repreſents St. Mark. Thoſe that told you that this Figure is JESUS CHRIST are mightily miſtaken : ' Tis St. Mark, under the Figure of the Premincerio. This has been often plainly ſaid by the VenetianWriters, and we need only look upon a Piece of the Coin to be con vinc'd of the Truth of it . And you may alſo ſee what M. St. Didier has written about it ( Page 174 of the Holland Edition printed at the Hague 1685.) The Doge takes an Oath of Fideli ty to the Patron St. Mark, having one Hand on the Maſs-Book, and with the other receivingthe Banner of the State. By this you may perceive, that this is no Honour to the Doge ; and that his Image has no more Marks of Authority than that of the Primicerio. As for the Letters of Princes, the Truth is, they aredirected and pre ſented to the Dogė ; but it belongs not to him to open them ,without firſt communicating them to the Council ; that is to ſay , the Council re ceives them by his Hands. And it is the ſame thing with reſpect to Ambaſſadors ; for the Af fair is conſulted before , and the 'Anſwer is ſo exactly put , Word for Word ,intothe Mouth of the Doge, that if at any time he happens to forget, or perhaps to make a willing Mi fake, he muſt expect to be corrected on the Spot. As to what concernsActs of State, he is buc 280 A New Voyage Vol. I. but the Herald ; the Senate enacts, and the Doge publiſhes ' em . ' Tis plain then, that if in any Caſe Gold and Purple are but glaring Pageants ; and if the Grandours of theWorld arebut Chimera's and ſtately Yokes ; the Doge of Venice is an eminent Inſtance of theſe Truths. When the Doge is sick , or Dies , the Eldeſt of the ſix Counſellors , whom I mention'd be fore, takes his Place , and repreſents his Per ſon in Publick Ceremonies , and upon all other Occaſions. But he rieither wears his Habit, nor fits in his Seat. And as the Doge never takes off his Corno, ſo the Vice- Doge never pulls off his Baretta . I have, in obedience to your Defire, inſiſted the longer on theſe Particulars : But you muſt not think that I have reveald to you any My Atery, in the Account I have given you of the Doge : For tho theſe thingsare not agreeable to theIdea's you had conceiv'd, nor, perhaps, to thoſe of the greateſt Part of the World ; they Šee wha: Mr.are all generally known here. I will not med Amelot bas dle with the Article ofGovernment, that would written of it, be too tedious and difficult a Subject for me to without mind. undertake ; who neither have Time, nor Intel ing what a seriainWriter,, ligence ſufficient to be fully inſtructed in ſo ma as I have been ny Things. told, has lately wwrote against Him , with a great deal of il Manners, and very little Knowledge. I proceed, in the next Place, to anſwer your Queſtions concerning the Patriarch. This Dignity can only be poſſeſs’d by a No ble Venetian. He is elected by the Senate , and confirmed by the Pope ; I need not tell you, that his Dignity is very eminent ; but his Authority is extreamly bounded. The Rectorsof Vol. I. to IT AL Y. 287 be not over je of the Pariſhes are choſen by the People ; the Pa- The Refors of triarch can nominate only to two or three Bene- the Pariſhes fices : And the Clergy in general, to ſpeak pro the People of are elected by perly, acknowledges no Superiority but that of each Pariſhe the State. This Prelate wears a Violet colour'd The Day of E. Habit. He only ftiles himſelf at the Beginning lection , the Candidates of his Orders ; N --- divinâ miſeratione Venetia- pepelentthema rum Patriarcha. N - by the Mercy of God, Pa- ſelves, every triarch of Venice : And adds not , as others do, one exalting his own Mee Et Sanctæfedis Apoſtolicæ gratiâ ; And by the Grace rits, and dea of the Holy Apoftolick See : The Venetians deſire faming bis nothing inore , than wholly to free themſelves Antagonifts. from the Authority of that which is call’d the G. Burnet. If the Ele &tion Holy See. Knowledge, or perſonal Merit, is no more requir'd to be made a Patriarch, than a Three Days, Pope : Such Qualifications as theſe are altogether the State 334 needleſs in thoſe Cafes,but ' tis by Intereſt and In - minates. trigue that thoſe Dignities are obtain'd, as'tis the Habit which makes the Monk. You wou'd be extreamly ſurpriz'd, and perhaps wou'd hardly believe me, if I ſhou'd attempt to give you a naked account of the Ignorance and Irregula rity that reigns in this Country, among all thoſe who call themſelves Clergy -men. They ſay , Cardinal Barberigo, Biſhop of Padua, who is a venerable Old Man, and a wiſe Perſon, fome times takes the Pains to preach againſt thoſe Abuſes. He does what he can, to make the Prieſts underſtand a little Latin. And his Zeal has been extended fo far as to double the Grates of fome Nunneries in his Dioceſs, in hopes they will follow his Example at Venice, where the * Speaking -places are of too eaſie Communica- * Les Para tion : But all his Endeavours have produced no loirs des Cou Effect among a People who are not willing to vens. give Ear to luch Spoilers of merry Company. I muſt not forget to acquaint you, fince I am talking of the Clergy, with a very pleaſant Se . cret 288 A New Voyage Vol. I. a cret which was found out here, in favour of fome Prieſts that are Muſicians. You know it is a Law without Exception , that a Prieſt muſt be a compleat Man ; according as you'll find it in Deuteronomy, Chap. xxiii. V. 1. Neverthe leſs, as it has been obſerved , that this perfe dion of the Body is ſometimes the Cauſe of the Imperfection of the Voice ; and as on the other Hand, the Sweetneſs of the Voice is of great uſe to inſinuate things the better into the Minds of People , both in the Church, and at the Ope ra; they have found an Expedient to remove this Difficulty , and have concluded, that a Prieſt fitted for Muſick , may exerciſe the Prieſtly Office as well as another ; provided he have his Neceſaries , or, if you will , his Superfluities in his Pocket. I will not be bound to produce the Ad for this Regulation , which, perhaps, was * Mr. Schei- only given viva voce. But however, I can po bler, a Luthe ſitively aſſure ranMiniſter, in you, from my own certain Know the Coxnty of ledge, that what I tell youis Truth . Juliers, bath Father * Mark Aviano, whom I mentioned in writ a Book my Letter from Augsburg, is at preſent here : concerning the I went twice or thrice to hear him preach , bue Miracles of Ibis Capu could not get Admittance. One that wou'd re chin. And you cure a Place muſt go three or four Hours before may ſee some he begins. The Devotion of the People is ſo Stories of him in the Treatile great for this pretended Worker of Miracles, of J. Zwin-. that at firſt they tore his Callock, and pluck'd gerus, Prof. in off the Hairs of his Beard , and had certainly Divin. a: Ba- pull’d him to Pieces, that they might get ſome fil, defelto Relicks of him,, if his Friends had not bethought Corporis Chrifti. themſelves to make a Hole in the Church Wall ; This Holy Con- by which he enters into the Pulpit thro' a Gal jurer kas not lery, which leads directly thither from a neigh appear'd lince bouring Houſe , and ſo preſerved him from theſe ibe Year 1691 . And ' e was cer fooliſh Devotions of the ſuperſtitious People. sainiy time to withdraw after ke had play'd ſuch a difficult Part so long. It Vol. I. to ITALY 289 1 told in 1709, It is juſt i ſhould ſay ſomething of being in Venice of the Illuftrious Fra. Paolo : All that I could learn concerning him among the Ser vite Friars was, that they hold his Memory in * Near the great Veneration. But, to tell the Truth, I be- Tomb of Tho lieve thoſe who ſpoke of him to me, knew but mas Lipoma: little of him , as I cou'd eaſily perceive by their nus ; and al I Diſcourſe ; for they told me, thatthey knew not most over. againſt that of where his Body lay, but Godwoulddiſcover it the Doge Ane in due time. They have preſerv'd the Dagger drew Ven whichthat great Mancall’å StylumRomanum , on drameno.1 ſo juſt and true an Occaſion. This Dagger is bave ſeen it , and taken a to be ſeen at the Feet of the Crucifix which is Draught of it ; upon the * Altar of St. Magdalen. but I have been that it was remov'd from thence into another place . Travellers will alſo find an Al teration in ſeveral Things fince the Time of my firſt giving a Relation of ' em . This Church is of a Gothick Architekture, but large and well adorn'd . The Painting of the Organ, and the Hiſtory of Cain and Abel above it , are by the Hand of Tintoret. There is a very fine Piece of the Asſumption, by Joſeph Salviati, in the great Chappel; and there are ſeveral Tombs in the Cloyſter. See the ſeveral other Remarksupon Venice, in the Beginning of the Second Volume. I ſhould never make an End , ſhould I under take to ſpeak of the Churches, the + Cabinets of Curioſities, and a hundred other Things ; and therefore I fhall content my ſelf with what I have ſaid at preſent. We are reſolvid to lie to famong theca? morrow Night at Padua, where we have ſecured binets, you may particularly a Coach to carry us to Loretto. The Froſt, which ſee thoseof the " hach continu'd for two whole Months, without Palace Roſini ; Intermiſſion, hath ſo dried the Roads , that we of theProcu . hope to jogg on eaſily. I expect at Rometo hear rator Juſtini ani ; of the from you : Pray let me not be diſappointed, and Family of Ca believe that I am very ſincerely, pello ; of M G. Barbaro ; of Mefieurs Moroſini, Grimani , Juſtiniani, Garzoni, did Zani ; of bie Barong de Tallis ; of Dr. Bon ; and of Franciſco Rota. Spon . Venice , Feb. 14. SIR; 1688. U LET 7 Your, &c. 1 290 A New Voyage Vol.1. LETTER XVIII. IT 9 SIR, Think I told you , in the End of my laſt Let ter, that I wou'd not undertake to deſcribe the Venetian Churches. I do not well remember, what Reaſons I alledg'd to excuſe my Silence : But, to ſpeak ingenuouſly, I was ſomewhat wea ry, and ' twas meer Lazineſs that made me finish my Letter. There are many fine. Churches in this City, and they are generally either magni ficent, or ſo full of Things that deſerve to be taken notice of , that if I ſhou'd not entertain you a while on ſo curious a Subje&, you might juſtly ſuſpect that I had forgotten the Promiſe I made you to give you an Account of all the Rarities I ſhou'd meet with . And therefore to make amends for my late Neglect, I'm reſolv'd to preſent you with a ſhort Abſtract of my large Journal ; that is , of the moſt remarkable Ob ſervations. I find in it about theſe Sacred Edi fices : for , if I ſhou'd tranſcribe all , my laſt Fault wou'd perhaps be worſe than the firſt. 'Tis one of the Peculiarities of Venice, that ſome of the Churches are dedicated to Saints that were never canoniz'd , ſuch as the good Man Job , the Prophets Moſes, Samuel , Fere miab , Daniel , and Zachary , to whom perhaps there might be ſome others added. I had the Curioſity to viſit the Temples that are confe crated to theſe Illuſtrious Names ; but cou'd not find any thing nrore extraordinary in them than their Dedication. One Vol. I. tò TALÝ. 290 One of the fineſt of thoſe Sacred Structures is that which is dedicated to St. Moſes. It has a majeſtick Front which was built by. Alexander Tremignone at the Charge of the * Procurator * Who dy'd Vincent Fini. They preſerve ſeveral Relicks in this Anno 1660. Church , and pretend, that they are both very Aged 8 3 Years. authentick and effe & ual. However, ſince they conſiſt only of Arms, Legs, and Jaw - bones, I will not trouble you with a Catalogue of 'em. But when I meet with ſome Holy Curioſity that deſerves to be particularly taken notice of as ſome Foreskins of a Philiſtine, fome Peas of S. Francis's Iſſue, or a Shoe of the Trojan Horſe ( for any thing is good enough to make a Relick ) you may infallibly expect to hear of it. As for the Church of St. Samuel ' twill be ſufficient to tell you , that there is nothing remarkable to be ſeen in it. St. Job's is a pretty fine Building : In the Veftry they keep a Body of St. Luke, and the Benedictines ofSt. Juſtina at Padua have another. But ſince the f Pope declar'd for the former, t Pius II. the Monks of Padua have taken the Reſolution to be humbly Silent. I believe there are above 300 Epitaphs in my Journal. Theſe Hiſtorical Elo gies having commonly ſomething agreeable and uſeful together , I fill my Table- Book of ' em and afterwards I tranſcribe the beſt. Here is one that was made for a certain Dogels ; and tho' perhaps, you will find nothing extraordi nary in it but the Name of the Perſon , yet I think the very Simplicity of it will pleaſe you. | Dex , rariſſimæ mulieris, Illuſtriſſimi Dom . N :- + Her Name colai Throniinclyti Dụciš Venetiarum Conjugis, hu- was Dea : of mili ||hoc in loco corpus juſſu ſuo conditum ejt. Animum the Family of the Moroſi verò ejus, propter vitævirtutem , & Morum San &ti Batem , ad Cæleſtem Patriam advolaffe credendum eft. ||In the chose An. Sal. M.CCCC. LXXVIII. fer of s Job's, U 2 At 292 A New Voyage Vol. I. A fine great Gate tor . At * St. Jeremy's they have one of that Pro Charch . phec's Teech ; and ' tis reaſonable they ſhou'd have a Relick of their Patron. If the reft had imitated fo judicious an Example , we might perhaps have had the pleaſure to have ſeen one of Moſes's Horns, and Job's Scabs. The great Al tar, and the Tomb of St.John the Martyr, Duke of Alexandria, are the moſt remarkable Things I obſerv'd at St. Daniel's. St. Zachary's is a fine Buil ding : The Architecture is not Modern, but the On the + Front is enrich'd with fine Marble, and the In There is a fine fide beautify'd with many Ornaments. There Marble Siatue are alſo magnificent || Altars in it. Among the • whichrepre. Tombs I took notice of that ofAlexander Vi&toria , Sents Zachary. a famous Sculptor, with this Inſcription . Il Particularly the Great Al † Alexander Victoria † 'Twowo he who Qui vivus vivos duxit è marmore made the Sta vultus. tuc of Zachary, Below on the Floor, Alexan- ( To haveavoided being guilty of falſe Quan der Victoria, tity , the laſt Syllable of duxit being ſhort ;; they cujus anima might have tranfpos’d the Word, and plac'd it in benedicti. one fit, 1605. either before vivus, or in the Place of vultus. ) The famous Church of St. Mark, of which I gave you a large Account, is ſo enrich'd with Moſaick -Work, that in this reſpect the Churches * Santa Ma of St. George Major, and de la * Salute ought noe ria della Sa lute. The to come in competition with it. But if we con Monks are ſider the Architecture, St. Mark's is an ugly ob called Somaſ. ſcure Place, in compariſon to theſe Churches. The chi. beſt Judges give the Preference to † St. George's; † Benedi& in Monks. In but commonEyes find ſomething in the Church the Iſle of della Salute that is more agreeable to 'em . The Giudeca Deſigns are quite different. St. George's is not un. A A large fine Cloifter and like toSt. Juſtina's at Padua ; for theContrivance fair Garden or guſto is the ſame in both. 'Tis true, St. Juſtina's is larger, and perhaps more magnificent within ; but > Vol. I. to ITALY 293 but its Outſide is naked, whereas the other is adorn'd with an admirable † Front , on which t This is one there are three Inſcriptions which 'twill not be of the curious improper to inſert, becauſe they are ſhort and Pieces ladio. of Pal Hiſtorical | Memoriæ Tribuni Memi optimi Principis , quillonthe right Factioſis Urbe pulfis; indeOttonis II Cæfaris odio in hand. Rempub. mirificè eluſo , de eadem ubique promeritus, ut æternam , eamque certiorem adipiſceretur Gloriam , abdicato Imperio, banc Inſulam Mónacbus incoluit, ac f Through the ejuſdem + inſtituit Viris,pie legavit.lidem grati animiGraver's Mi ergº poſuere M.DC. X. Decejit MCCCÈXCII.Pake, for In ftituti,

• Sebaſtiani Ziani invi& ti Ducis cujus Armis fracta * On the left. prius Friderici Anobarb. Cæſaris pertinaciâ, moxoffi ciis delinită , eundem inter fe di Alexandrum III, Pona tif. Max. Pacis Arbitrum voluit, quâ nutans Chriftia na Reſp. tandem ſublato diffidio conquievit.

† Monachi pluribus obftri&ti beneficiis , celebriori + Theſe two E loco monumentum poſuere M. DC. X. Obiit M. D, pitaphs were LXXIII. with the Tombs ll D. O. M. Sacrum Georgii ac Stephani Protom . tutelá , Mona- || In the mido chorum ære M.D.LVI. a fundamentis cæptum , ad- dle, over the jectåfronte abſolutum . Anno Humanæ Reparationis M. DC. X. Leon. † Don. Principe, of Leonardo Donato Doge. His Tomb is in the Church, with an Epitaph, which magnifies his Pertues exa treamly. The great Altar of this Church is enrich'd with Marble or the fineſt Sort , and curiouſly wrought. 'Tis alſo adorn'd with ſeveral Statues, the chief of which are the || Four Evangelifts ſupporting || By Jerome a World, on which there is a Padre Eterno. The Campagne. whole is of Braſs gilt. The in the old Church. Door. U2 V 294 A New Voyage 1 Vol. 1 . is little regar. The Seats of the Canons round the Quire are of Walnut- Tree, on which the Life of St. Bene diet is deſcrib'd in very fine Balo Relievo's, where † Per ]pe & ive the Rules of † Perſpective are wellobſerv'd. In a Chappel , near the Tomb of the Procu ded in the moftrator Vincent Moroſini, thoſe who have good Eyes famous Antick Ballo Relie- obſerve on a Marble Pillar, and on ſome places vo's. This is of the Baliſters, Fiſhes, Birds, and other Things theWork of naturally figurd ; and even an entire Crucifix. Alb .Brugle, I mean the Eyes of Imagination , for there is Fleming, who, if we nothing like it in Reality, though certain little may believe Books chat are to be bought at Venice, ſay ſo . the Monks,was In this Church they have the Body of St. Ste at that time but 25 Year's phen the Protomartyr , which a pious Woman, oid . calla Juliana, brought from Jeruſalem to Conſtan tinople ; from whence ' twas afterwards tranſpor ied to Venice, by one Peter a Monk. The whole Story is deſcrib'd at length in two long Latin Inſcriptions, which I had the Patience to trans fcribe, but I'm afraid you wou'd not have the Pacience to read. I have alſo fill'd my Table - Book with ſeveral Epitaphs of Doges, Procurators, and other Noblemen of the Country ; but I ſhall content my ſelf with inſerting that of the Doge * At preſent Dominico * Michel, they ſay Mi. cheli. Terrir Græcorum jacet hic, & laus Venetorum , Dominicus Michael, quem tenet Emmanuel, Dux prebus &fortis , quem totus adhuc colit Orbis. · Prudens confilio, fummus & ingenio. illius a & ta viri declarat caprio Tyri : The Doges in Interitus Syria , mæror Ungariæ. Tharfe Day , Qui fecit Venetos in pace manere quietos. Donec enim vixit, Patria tuta fuit, FT etere for Quiſquis ad hoc pulchrum veniesSpectare ſepulchruim Flelie. There Genua ante Deum fle&tere propter eum. are alſo ſome Anno Domini M.C. XX. VIII. Indictione VIF. i nules againſt the Rules of, obiit Dominicus Michael Dux Venetia . Proſodia. The TO Ere nut SA tu ! Vol. 1. ta ITALY. 295 The Quire, Altars, Floor, Dome and Veftry of the Church della Salute, are all extreamly beautiful. The † Foundations of this Structure + Two Years were laid March 25. 1631. The Occaſion is rela- were ſpent in ted in this Inſcription, which was plac'd on the fixing the Piles. firſt Stone. D. O. M. A Vow to the Dive Maria Salutis Matri Templ. ædificandi, ad virgin for De Peſtilentiam extinguendam , Senatus ex voto, primus liverance from bic lapis. An. Dom . 1631. 25. Mart. Urbano VIII. the Plague. Sum . Pont . Nicolao Contareno Duce. Joan. Theupolo was built by This Church Patriarcha. Balthaſar Longhena. ' Tis adorn'd , both without and within, with about one hundred and thirty Mara ble Statues. ' Twas erected at the Charge of the Publick ; whereas moſt of theother Churches were built by private Families, and conſequently may be look'd upon as so many Marks either of their Vanity or Piety (that is , of the Piety, which is in faſhion at Venice) and of their vaft Riches. ' Tis certain, that there ce conſiderable Number of very rich Families in this city. On the great Altar there is aa Statue of the Vir gin, holding the little Jeſus in her Arms. On her right Hand iş Venice, imploring her Alli ſtance , and begging her to ſtop the Progreſs of that mortal and contagious Diftemper. On the other Side is Peſtilence flying, purſu'd by an An gel with aa Torch in his Hand. St. Mark is pre ſent, with the bleſſed Lawrence Juſtiniani, and ſeveral others . All theſe Statues are of fine Mar , ble, and made by a curious Hand. I dare not undertake to deſcribe all the Em . belliſhments of this Noble Structure. 1 St. James's de Rialto is ſaid to be the firſt Church Absut the Year that was built on theſe Spots of Ground, on 421 . which Venice is founded. But it has been ſo often deſtroy'd and rebuilty that it may be rec kon'd a new Church , notwithſtanding its boaſt ed Antiquity, The Altar in the great Chappel U 4 is 296 A New Voyage Vol. I. is of white Marble, adorn'd with a fine Statue

• Obelatus of St. James by Alex. Vi&toria.

was the firſt St. Mark's Church is but aChappel to the Doge's Biſhop,Anno Palace. St. Peter's di Caſtello is the * Epiſcopal 774, and Lo and Patriarchal Church. ' Tis pretty large, and renzo Juſti- the†+ Front deſerves to be taken notice of for niani the firft Patriarch its beautiful Simplicity. And tho' no extra Anno 1450. ordinary Care has been taken to embelliſh this archate For the Patri- of Church , there are ſome very conſiderable Or Grade was * naments, and ſeveral Sorts ofremarkable Things nited to the Bi- to be ſeen in it, Shoprick of Ve nice; and boththeſe Dignities were conferr'd upon Lorenzo, by Pope NicholasV. + 'Twas built by Fr. Smeraldi, at the Charge of Lorenzo Priolo, Cardinal and Patriarch. I objerru'd theſe two In /criptions upon it. D. O. M. Domus Domini ædificata ſuper firmam petram , in longitu dinem dierum . Anno Sal. 1596. Clem. VIII. Pont.M. Laurentii S.R.E. Card. Priolo Patriar. Ven. pium Monum. Anno fui Patr. VI. Marino Grimano Duce Venetiarum. fine Marble The great Altar was erected by the Senate, in purſuance of a Vow they had made during the a War againſt the Turks, 1649. ' Tis dedicated to the Beato Lorenzo ; and the Body of that Demi Saint is plac'd in a ſtately MarbleTomb, ſup 1 St. Peter, ported by Angels and ||Apoſtles. The Statue of St. Paul, St , the Beato ſtands upon the Tomb that contains his Mark, S.John , Bones. There is an Inſcription over the Door Statues. The of the Veftry , which not long ſince occaſion d a whole by B. Quarrel betwixt two * German Gentlemen, about Longhena. the Words Tutelare numen , that you may obſerve

• The one was this Inſcription,

- Bloom of Saltzburg, or thereabouts , a Roman Catholick ; the other Kerglaw , อร์ reply in Sileſia, a Lutheran. They drew their Swords in the open Place, over-againſt the Church , and were both spounded . This Accident huppend, Anno 1684. . D. O. M. Beato Laurentio fuftiniano, primo Venetiarum Pa triarchæ ; ftirpis clarisudine augufto ; San&timonio 3 gloridt 3 1 Vol. I. to ITALY 297 glorii longè auguftiori; Tutelari Numini benefi centiſſimo, ad facros cujus cineres Templum boc illu ftrantes, Civitate in peſtilentiâ tunti Civis auxilium expertå, quotannis ejus dieperpetud feſtivitate cele brando, Senatus Religiofiflimus venerationis ergo ex voto accedit. Federicus S.R.E. Cardinalis Cornelius maximi cultûs minimum argumentum dic. Near this Inſcription, upon the Wall of the Church, there are two Epitaphs that are thought to be well written, and conſequently will not be unacceptable to you, Majeſtas quam +t Suſpicis # The Buft is Viator over the Epic taph. Frontis Fran. Mauroceni * D. M. Pro. refert. Hic Ille at non Ille unus Lingua da calamo difertè multiplex Mente & manu impigrè omnigenus Moderandis Provinciis ter magnus Imperandis Armis ter major Maturandis confiliis terq; quaterq; maximus Feltria Tarviſium Brixia teftes Palma Candia iterum Candia Pervicacium cæde feliciter cruenta E Fovis monte importato in Forum fonte Veneto ſumptu Romano auſu Immortaliter ſed bilariter irrigua Virtus benignioriſemper imbre recreata Fato irafcere ſerò te adventaſſe & abi. Obiit H. an. at. XXCII. Sal. Hum . M. DC. XLI.

• Divi Marci Procuratoriss or , Divi Marcis Procuratorem. If Fran. ftands for Franciſcum . they ought to say Maurocenum , or Moroſini ; if they mean Franciſci, it is not to be conſtrued. Sie the following Epitapla

ofia 298 A New Voyage Vol. 1 offa Helenæ Capellæ , Omnigenis virtutibus infignitæ Matrone , Franciſci Mauroceni Conjugis predilecte . Genere, Formå, Vetuſtate, Græcam ; Fide, Pudore, Pietate, Romanam Helenam referentis, In hoc poftremo Humanitatis domicilio requiefcunt. entes, betwixt makes no great Sbor. I have ſeen ſome Devout Perſons kiſs a Stones On the right Chair which is * kept in this Church : They hand as you pretend that St. Peter made uſe of it when he the ſecond and was at Antioch ; and a Sacriſtan inform’d me, third Altar, that 'twas a Preſent of Michael Paleologus, Em by the Wall. peror of Conſtantinople. The fame Perſon told The Patriar . me a Story of a brazen Croſs , that was found sbal Palace is on theJame“ floating in fome Part of the Lügunes, and brought Hide of the with a great deal of Ceremony to this Church. Church. ' Tis They have a Veneration for it ; but the Croſs convenient cou'd never tell 'em what kept it from ſinking, Houfe, but when it was in the Water : And tho' ' cis evidenta ly miraculous, no body may ſay that he remem bers to have ſeen it working any Miracle. So that notwithſtanding every Church , and almoſt every Chappel is abundantly provided with Pieces of the true Croſs, this brazen one, as extraordinary as it is , is ſomewhat neglected. The Monks of + In the Chap- St. Michael, betwixt Venice and Murano, have ta pel of the F* fine one, which is endu'd with a particular Vir wil; Priolo tue to appeaſe Tempeſts. TheHiſtory of it is full of ſurprizing Wonders : ' Tis wristen on a Scroll of Vellum , in ſo Antick a manner, that this Confideration alone wou'd be ſufficient to prove the Truth of the Relation , tho' they had no other Arguments to confirm it . Twas Vol. I. to ITALY 299 vent. ? Twas pra & iſed heretofore that never any Vef fel fet Sail from the Port of Venice till the Pilot, and all of the Ship’s Crew had recommended themſelves to the Protection of this Miraculous Croſs. But the Heat of this Devotion is much a bated ; for it ſeems ' tis the Misfortune of Venice as well as of other Places, that good Cuſtoms are fooner forgotten than bad ones. The Quire of the Church is much commended for the Rich neſs and Beauty of the Work. In a little Cham ber near the Quire, there is a Map of the World drawn with the Hand, and adorn'd with Minia tures ; which is certainly a curious Piece. He They have one that made it was a Monk ofthis Convent, as it ap- in ibe Cox pears by the Medals that were ſtruck on that ca caſion , with this Motto, Frater Maurus S. Micha elis Morianenſis de Venetiis, Ordinis Camaldulenfis, Coſmographus incomparabilis. The Monk who ſhew'd us theſe Things carryi'd us to a little, but magnificent * Chappel near the Bergamatc. Church. He ſaid the People generally believ'd was the Ar that ' twas built by a Courteſan, with the Profits chitect of it, of her lewd Vocation , but at the ſame time he† After Six. aſſur'd us they were miſtaken. V terms, what lignifies it whether True or Falſe ? petled 'em out Solon built a Temple to Venus with the Money of Rome, he that was earn’d by common Proſtitutes; and was forced ,say why ſhould they not dothe ſame át Rome and om again, for they, toca'l , Venice, where ſuch lewd Women are not only to avoid werfe. tolerated,but t invited ; protected , countenanc'd, Thou phalt and publickly allow'd of ? nor bring the The Convent cannot be term'd a magnificent Whore, inin hire of a Ştructure ; but ' cis certainly a neat Building, the Houſe of and agreeably ſituated. For from hence you the Lord thy have the Proſpect of Venice, Murano, Lido, Terra God, for any Vow. ( Deut. firma, and ſeveral Places in the Lagunes , with out mentioning the Walks and Gardens that be long to the Convent. About 200 Years ago, a Anno 1497. Spainillo

• William

But in ſtrong tus v bad ex most 1 1 23. 18. ) ) 300 A New Voyage Vol. 1: Spaniſh Ambaſſador was ſo charm'd with the Beauties of this place , thathe reſolv'd to ſpend the Remainder of his Days in it. They made us take notice of his Epitaph, which, they told us, was written by the famous Aldus Manutius. Monk. Le&tor parumper fifte, rem miram leges. Hic Eu # He turnid ſebii Hiſpani + Monacbi corpus fitum est. Vir unde quaque qui fuit doctiſſimus ; noftræ quoque vitæ Ex emplar admirabile. Morbo laborans, Jexdecim totos dies • See Bern, edens bibens * nibil prorſus, & uſqueſuos manens ,Deum Vol . II. abiit. Hoc te ſcirevolebam . Abi do vale, I will not trouble you with an Account of the other Tombs and Epitaphs that are to be ſeen in this Place. But ſince we are ſo near the Glaſs houſes at Murano , I ſhall take this Occaſion to give ſome Remarks upon 'em. Murano is one of the * largeſt and moſt agree * It contains fifteen Chur- able Iſlands in the Lagunes, about a ſhort Mile ches, compre- from Venice . There are ſome fine † Houſes in bending thoſe it, and a great many more Gardens, propor of the Con Rents. This is tionably , than at Venice. There is a Canal which runs croſs the Inand, which is larger than the most populous other Canals in the ſame Place : And the fa lands. mous Glaſs- houſes, which you have heard ſo # Particularly that of M.C.often mention'd , are ſeated on this Canal. millo Trevi. Youmuſt notimagine, that there is any Thing ſano , with at all extraordinary intheſe Buildings. They the Garden, are divided into ſeveral Lodgings, Halls, Ware Fountain , & c. one of the houſes, Furnaces, & c. as in other places. For merly the Glaſs call'd Venice-Cryſtal , was the fineſt in Europe ; but at preſent it does not merit that Ticle. Not that 'tis courſer than before, but becauſe they have found the Se cret in other places, to make Glaſs, at leaſt, as fine as that of Venice. Mr. de S. Didier writes, that he heard a Maſter of a Glafs houſe at Ve i Vol. I. to ITALY. 301 nice offer a * Hundred thouſand Franks to any * About Eigha Man that wou'd teach him the Secret of ma 1 bouland Pounds flera king Glaſs as white as that of a Cup that was ling . brought from Paris. And one of my Friends aſſurd me, that a few Years ago, having car ry'd a Vial of the fineſt Cryſtal of Murano to London, the Work- men there were ſo far from looking upon it as extraordinary or inimita ble, that they ſaid they cou'd, and ſometimes did , make finer Work. The Skill they have acquir'd in other Countries, and the Manufa - Venice Glaſs aures they have erected , have almoft ruin'a prohibited in France. the Trade of Murano. Their whiteſt and pu reft Glaſs is made of certain * Stones that are . They are found in the Teſino, the Aſhes of ſeveral Herbs white, and that are found in the Country about Tripoli are as big aas in Barbary , and the other uſual Ingredients. one's Head They make uſe alſo of certain other Stones that are found in the Adige, and the Sand that is gather'd on the Shore of the Gulf on the Dale matian Side : But this is only for common Glaſs. The Glaſs-makers of Murano ſtile them ſelves Gentlemen , ſince they were ennoblid by Henry III, who had the Curioſity to ſee He was carry'd 'em at Work when he paſs’d through Venice. from Venice And they enjoy all the Privileges of the Ci- to Murano in the Buceno tadinance. But let us return to our Churches. I will not loſe Time in deſcribing that which bears the Name of St. Nicholas of the Lettice, which was founded by the Noble Nicholas Leono , on the Occaſion of his being cur'd by the fan &tify'd Lettices that were ſent to him by the Monks. Nor that of † S. Maria Cæleftis, which took its t A fineChurch : Name from an Image that fell from Heaven, and is enrich'd with a precious Leg of St. Lau rence , which ſerves to extinguiſh Fire. Nor will I trouble you with an Account of Fonas's Head, which caur. 302 A New Voyage Vol. I. of + The People which is kept at † St. Apollinaris's ; nor calit, Si. A- St. Clara's Nail; nor of the Coif at St. Lawa ponale. rence's ; nor of other Rarities of the fame Na By one of ihe Pope's Brils , ture ; which perhap's you wou'd look upon che Butcher's as Trifles. kava the Pria vilege of electing the Rector of St. Matthew. And in the same Church ' ois the Csiltom to make Holy Water, by ſleeping one of St. Liberalio's Bones in it. there is a Box DV recover . There is a The Redemptore is a Modern Structure,and very conſiderable, but inferior to thoſe of St. George and de la Salute. ' Twas built Anno 1576, on the fatne Occaſion as that de la Salute, as it appears at S. John's by this Inſcription, Chriſto Redemptori, Civitaté in Bragora , gravi peſtilentia liberatá, Senatus ex Voto. Prid. Non. , Sept. An.M.D.LXXVI. Palladio was the Ar in which they put Children'chitect of this Building , as well as of the beau ibat are very tiful Front of St. Francis de la Vigne, and of St. Lu fick, and pre- cia. Theſe two Churches are rich in Altars ; buc tend to know, the former deferves the Preference in all reſpeas. by certain Signs, whether The laſt time 'twas repair’d , its lovely Front was they will die adornd with ſeveral Figures, and particularly with the † Statues of Moſes and St. Paul in Braſs, Clouk of St. with theſe Words under the firſt , Miniſtro Um Zichary's brarum, and under the other , Diſpenſatori Lucis. that ſervesfor The Chappels and Tombs are futable to the the ſame uſe, Richneſs of the other Parts ; and the Time that Two Madona's ftood on Cha . is ſpent in viſiting ' em, may be reckon'd well piters, but employ'd. I found ſome excellent Eulogies in when thigbe the Epitaphs of ſeveral illuſtrious Perſons, who lie Interrà in this Church ; Doges, Cardinals, famous racles, there for Mi. Patriarchs,Generals of Armies,, Ambaſſadors, & ć. were Churches But they are purely Hiſtorical, and tho they are built for ' cm finely written , they generally want that Singu. Ly the Names larity of Stile which is ſo becoming and neceffa . of Madona della Conſolatione , o della Fava ; & Madona de Miracoli , which is a fine Church, &c. + Titiani Aſperti Patavini opus. In the Frize i oferu'd theſe words, Deo utriuſque Templi Edificatori ac Reparacori. Try Lan 10 grow ز Vol. I. to I TAL Y. 303 Ty à Property of a good Epitaph. I will only preſent you with one or two, which pleas'd me better than the reſt.

Bernardus Dandulus Ant. F. Vir magni animi, off ſua hoc loco, cum Patris offibus voluit reponi ; quod Eliſabet Soror amantiſſima effecit : ut cum iis ex qui bus ſemel eft ort145 , longiſſimå exactå ætate, iterum {imul reviviſcat. M. Antonius Triviſanus † Princeps integerrima vi- t Doge. tæ , & Paternâ virtute, ac glorid ſemper clarus; um nibus Honoribus egregiè perfunctus : à Patribus, in vitoipfius genio, Princeps cooptatus ; cum annum Remp. He dy'd ſud San tè gubernaſjet, Religionis amantiſſimus, dum ſacro denly as he was in imaginum Aulâ intereſſet, nullâ ægritudine, flexis hearing Niaſsa ante aras genubus, in gremio Patrum moriens, migrae + Not in Pur vit * in Cælum beatiſſimus. M. D. LV.I. Octobris. gatorium. There are at leaſt + Eighteen Doges interr'd at Sylveſter Valier , ths St. John and Paul's ; and a great Number ofpreſent Doge, ſuch Illuftrious Perſons as I mention'd juſt now. 1696, is the I took notice of the following Inſcription under 109th. A Man the Tomb that contains the skin of the famous of great Merit . , M. Ant.Bragadino, Governor of Famaguſta,who A largeand fine was flay'd alive by order of Muftapha, the Gene- but built, as sal of the Turkiſh Army, they fay, a la Todeſca, chat is, after the Gothick way. The Convens is alſo large and beautiful. It belongs to the Regular Dominicans. Marci Antonii Bragadini, dum pro Fide Patria Filme capitulared, & Famaguſta. bello Cyprio † Salaminecontra Turcas conſtanter, fortificer a longDe He terq; curam principem fuftineretglongå obſidione * vićti, fence: But diufta pha was so far from obſerving the Articles, that he caus'd the Principal Officers to be Maſsacred, and referu'd Bragadino for a memorable Inſtance of his Barbariiy . The Noſe and Ears of that unfortunate Governor were cut off : He wasloaded with Chains , and forc'd for ſome time to carry a Hone or Basket in the Service of thoſe who were imp! oy'd in repairing the Fortifications of ihe Town. 41 lat, after he had for a long time fuffer'd all manner of Indiynies, he was frıy'n alive in the Prblick He bore all thoſeTorments with a ſurpriſing Cossrage and Regulation . The cruel Multapha order'd his Skin to be ſtuff d with Hay, and ſent to the Afenal of Constantinople ; from othence 'idas retriev'd by the Brother and Children ofthis Iliuſtrious Martyr for his Commiiy , afier si bod lain iltere 2 Tears. See Ant. Mar. Graciani, de bello Cyprio. à perfid . 样 } a

7 고 Place. 5 ! 304 & New Voyage Vol. I à perfidů Hoſtis manuzipſovivo, acintrepidèſufferente, detra &ta pellis. Anno Salutis, M. D. LXXI. XV. Kal. Septembr. AntoniiFratrisoperd er impensa huc advecta ; atque hic à Marco , Hermolao, Antonioque, Filiis pientiſſimis, ad fummi Dei, Patriæ, Paternique nominis gloriam ſempiternam pofita. Anno Sai. M. D.XCVI. Vixit annos. XLVI. and the other a Scotchmani To this Epitaph I will only add thoſe of two * The one an of your * Countrymen . Engliſh -man, Odoardo Windefor, Baroni Anglo, illuftrib. Paren tib.orto ; qui dum Religionis quadam || abundantià , vitæ probitate, & ſuavitate Morum omnibus charus, cla ruſque, vitam degeret, immatura morte correpto , cele berrimis exequiis decorato, Georgius Lewbnor, Affinis, || Superſti- poni curavit. Obiit An. D.1574. Die menſ. Jan. 24. tion is an Ætatis fuæ 42 . Excreſcence, and Superfluiry of Religion. Illuftri Domino Henrico Stwarto D. Aubigniſecundo genito. Excellentiſſimi Principis E /mei Ducis Laviniæ propinquitate, & generofiffima indole præclaro ; Hierce nymus Uſton Britanniarum Regis ad Sereniſſ. Remp. Venetam Legatus, ſuaviſſimo Affini M.M.P. 1637. Vixit annos 17. This Church is alſo adorn'd with ſeveral Sta. tues on Horſeback, erected by the Senate, to the Honour of ſome Illuſtrious * Generals. That of Nic. Ur. the famous Bartholomeo Coglioni is moſt remark ſinus Nolæ, able . It ſtands in the open Place without the Pitiliani Church ; 'tis of Braſs gilt, and ſupported by a Princeps. Leonardus fine Marble Pedeſtal, with this Inſcription : Pracus. Pom peus Juſtinianus, Patricius Genuenſis. Horatius Balleonius, & c.

• Bartho

Vol. I. to ITALY 305 Bartholomeo Coleono Bergomenfi , ob militare Im- * Leander Alberti calls perium optimè geſtum . S.C. him Barth. Fohanne Mauro, e Marino Venerio Curatoribus. Capolione ( alluding pepe haps to Capo di Lione, becauſe he was very Valiani ) But it is more probable that that General was nam'd Coglione, ſince he gave for his Coat of Arms Coglioni ; as may be ſeen in Ballo Relievo, on the Pedestal of his Statue. An. Sal. 1495 : i Sanita Maria Glorioſa is another of the prin- | | Frati Cotia cipal Churches in Venice. ' Tis large , and very ventral Fran much embelliſh'd with divers Ornaments. They ciſcans. There are ſome pretend that the Seraphick St. Francis, in proper magnificent Perſon mark'd the Place where it ſhou'd be Tombs in it, built. I ſpent two whole Afternoons in view ing and decyphering the Epitaphs that are to be ſeen in it ; but I only tranſcrib'dewo of 'em : One of aa Woman, which is the only Monument of that Kind I obſerv'd there ; and the other of a Doge , who is made to ſpeak his own Elogy ز † Modeſte à Puteo, fæminæ do&tiffimæ, quæ varios t in oneof the virtutis partus, || Moderate Fontis nomine, Rythmis Chipers,near Etruſcis ( quibus memoranda cecinit) & fermone con- Miracolola. tinuo feliciter enixa, Naturle Partum dum ederet, pu- || Aborrond ella vitam, fibi vero mortem, proh dolor ! aſcivit. Name, Philippus de Georgiis Petri F. in Off. Super aquis pro Ser. Dom . publici jura defendens amantiſſimæ Conjugi P. Obiit An. Dem . M.D.XCII. Kal. Novembris. I a 7 Accipite, Cives, Franciſci Foſcari veſtri Ducis Ima ginem . Ingenio, Memoriâ, Eloquentia : Ad hæc, Ju ſtitiả, Fortitudine animi,fi nihil amplius , certè fum . morum Principum gloriamæmulari contendi. Pietati érga Patriam meaJatisfeci nunquam . Maxima bella X pro 306 A New Voyage Voil, pro veſtrå ſalute dx Dignitate, Terrå Mariq ;, per an nos pluſquam triginta gelli ; ſummå felicitate confeci. Labentem fuffulſi Italiæ Libertatem. Turbatores Quia etis compeſcuis. Brixiam , Bergamum , Ravennam , Cremam, Imperio adjunxi veſtro. Omnibus ornamen tis Patriam auxi. Pace vobis partå. Italiâ , in trana quillum , fædere redactd. Poj tot labores exbauſtos, ætatis An. LXXXIV. Ducatûs quarto Supra trigeſi mum, Salutiſq; M. CCCC. LVII. Kal. Nov. ad eternam requiem commigravi. Vos Fuſtitiam & Concordiam , Quo Sempiternum boc fit Imperium , Conſervate. Francis Foſcari was depos'd, or rather remov'd from his Seat of Authority and Power , to that of a private Perſon in the Eighty fourth Year of his Age, as not being capable of performing any Function belongingto his Dogeal Office, in which he had honourably acquitted himſelf for the Space of 34 Years. In all States, they depoſe their Princes when they become Traitors to their Country , and declare themſelves Enemies inſtead of Nurſing-Fathers and Protectors of it ; according to natural Equity , and the folemn Oath they are oblig'd to take on the Day of their Inſtalment. They depoſe alſo Fools and Madmen, ſuch as Alphonfo ofPortugal, Uncle to the preſent King. And when they fall into an irrecoverable State of Infirmity, why ſhould they not exhort 'em to make an honourable Reſigna tion oftheir Power. Does a General of an Army, that's grown old and infirm , make any Scruple of reſigning his Poft to another ? I ſhall take this Occaſion to obſerve, that by the Epitaphs I have ſeen in this Place, I find that a con Vol. I. to ITALY 307 conſiderable Number of the Perſons on whom they are written , dy'd above 80 Years old . A Sign that the Air of Venice is not ſo bad, as is commonly reported. The Front of || St. Mary's of Nazareth is of very fine white Marble ' Tis a Piece of Sardi's Ar chitecture, and extreamly magnificent. * Thoſe || At thebarte of St. Juſtina's and St. Saviour's are alſo very footed Carme much efteem'd . , The laſt of theſe Churches is lites on the Canal call's adorn'd with the ſtately Tombs of the Doge Regio. Franciſco Venier ( Venerius) , Catharina † Cornaro At the charge ( ( Cornelia ) Queen of Cyprus , the Doges Lorenzo of the Noble and Hieronymo Priolo, the Procurator Andrea Del-Hieronymo Cavezzo fino, and ſome others. Under the little Portico whoſe Tomb thro' which you deſcend from the Church to may be seen as the Street, there is an Inſcription by which it S. Maria dell Horio appears, that Pope Alexander III, when he was * The Gift of forc'd to wander about as a Fugitive, lay hid a Jacobus Gal whole Night in this Place. * Alexander III. Sum . Ius as it ap Pont. A.D. 1177. bic pernoctanti, Eccleſiam S. Salv. pears by theft confecranti, & Indulg.concedenti, Can. Reg. S. Salvat. Inſcriptique . poſuere An. 1632. Some People by way of Con- Chrifto Ser tradiction, would fain make us believe that this vatori. æter Pope never hid himſelf in Venice; but certainly , na Incruſta either they are ignorant of the History, or elſe tio, Jacobi Galli pieta diſguiſe the Truth of a Thing which is un- tem reabi deniable. tur Æternis tari . DOM. Æternam hujus Frontis incruſtationem , à Jacobo Gallo legas tam , Marinus Moſchenius P. C. M. DC. LXXIII. † She ſet up the Standard of Venice or Famaguſta, and refign’d her King - dom to the Republick, An. 1487. But the Duke of Savoy wall be heard asport that Reſignation . Upon the Wall, on ihe left hand is you go down. 4 I lik'd much the Great Altar of St. Juftine's with the Tabernacle . The devout Adorers of chat Saint are always careful to viſit the Stone where ſhe left the Print of her Knees, when ſhe X z faid 308 A New Voyage Vol. t. 1 ranzone. ſaid her laſt Prayer before her Martyrdom , as + Tradicum the Story is related in an † Inſcription beneath eſt nobis ab the Stone. antiquis in dubiâ ſucceſſione, hanc effe illam petram in quàJuſtina virgo impreſſit ve ftigium genuflexionis fuæ factæ pro oratione habitâ ante martyrium , quam bîc reponi fecimus ad fidelium devotionem. Thoſe who chuſe the huge St. Chriſtopher for their Patron, have an extraordinary Veneration for a Statue of that Saint, which is to be ſeen in the Church of St. Maria dell borto, on the great | Gaſpar Mo- Altar. ' Twas made by an excellent || Sculptor, according to the Proportion of a Bone of the 1 A 7,1470 Original, which was † heretofore brought from The Front of this Church is England, by a very curious Perſon who was a kurich'd with nice Judge of Relicks. So that a devout Spe Marble, and etator has the Pleaſure to behold the exact Di not meanly * menſions of that Saint ; and this Conſideration doin'd . has ſo enhanc'd the Value of the Statue , that thoſe who have moft Experience in Affairs of this Nature, are confident, that it will quickly begin to work Miracles. In the fame Church * There are ComeBuſt's in it they take particular Notice of the Magnificent by the Hand of * Chappel of the Family of Contareni, and the Alex.Vi&o- + Mauſoleum of Count Hieronymo Cavazza, whom + of the Ar I had occaſion to mention before . chitecture of I have gone many Times on purpoſe to Jofeph Sardi. St. Luke's to ſee the Tomb of the famous * Are- $ ' Tis said this tin , but cou'd never find the Church open , nei Church ftands ther the Man to open it. Tho' that Satyrical Venice in the midst . of Poet deſerv'd to have been made the Subjed of a Satyr, I can hardly give Credit to what I have heard aflirm'd , that the biting Epigram that was made againſt him is plac'd as an Epitaph on his Tomb. However, you will perhaps read it with Pleaſure both in the Original, and as it is Tranſ lated into French and Italian. S ria.

Peter . Condit Vol. I. 309 to ITALY Condit Aretini cineres lapis iſte ſepultos, See what Mr. Mortales atro qui ſale perfricuit. Bayle has ſaid of this Epi. Inta & tus Deus eft illi : caufamque rogatus, taphin his Die Hanc dedit ; Ille, inquit, non mihi notus erat. &tionary under the Article of Pierre Are. Le temps par qui tout le conſume, tin . Sous cette pierre à mis le corps De ľ Aretin , de qui la plume Blela les Vivans & les Morts. Son Encre noircit la memoire Des † Monarques de qui la gloire f He was callid the Scourge of Eft vivente apres le trepas : Pringes. Et s'il n'a pas contre Dieumeſme Vomi quelque horrible blaſpheme, C'st qu'il ne le connoiſſoit pas. Quì giace l' Aretin Poeta * Toſco, Che d'ogn' un diſe malo, fuor di Dio Scufandoſi col dir' Io no'l conoſco.

• He was s

Native of A i rezzo. In Engliſh it may be expreſs'd thus ; Here lies a Man, who no Men ſpar’d, When tb' angry Fit was on him. Nor God himſelf had better far’d, If Aretin bad known bim. Another Rhymer has had the ſameThought in the Biggarures ( or the Touches ) of the Sieur Des Accords. Biſot rempli de Mediſance Parle mal de tous, en tout lies Et s'il ne medit pas de dieu , Ceft qu'il n'en a la connoillance, X 33 I hope 310 A New Voyage Vol. I. I hope this Letter will make amends for my late Neglect, which I acknowledg’d was the Ef fect of my Lazineſs ; and that ,, I'm ſure, is one of the moſt pardonable Faults of a Traveller. They wou'd laugh at me here, if they knew how immethodically I diſcourſe of their Sacred Places , ſeeing me skipping ſo often from one End of the Town to the other. I muſt confeſs, I have obſerv'd no other Order than that of my Journal ; and that I think is ſufficient for the Uſe you will make of it. I cou'd eaſily reckon up a vaſt Number of fine See the Inftru. Paintings,with which the Churches are adornd ; Ftions to a Tra. but I know not whether you wou'd have the veler, at the Patience to read ſuch a dry Catalogue. Nor End of the Se cond Volume: will I undertake to give you an Account of thoſe half facred Places , which are here call'd Scuole. Theſe are publick Edifices divided into Chappels, Halls , Chambers , and Lodgings, which belong to Fraternities of Monks, or ſome other particular Societies. I have ſeen at leaſt 35 of 'em, and I doubt not but that there are more. Among the reſt there are * Six , call’d Scuole 10f S.Mark, grandi, which are embelliſh'd with ſo much Art adjoining to and Coſt, that they may vie with the fineſt 60 the Church of St.John and Churches, both in the Richneſs and Beauty of Paul. their Ornaments. 9. ofMercy, in the Quarter of the Canal regio . 3. Of St. John the Evangelia, in the Quarter of St. Paul. 4. Of Charity, in the quarter of Dorſo duro. 5. Of St. Roch, in the quarter of St. Paul. 6. of St. Theodore, in the Quarter V St. Mark. The Firſt and the Fifth are molt conſiderable. In many Churches and Fraternities there are Annual Funds eſtabliſh'd to raiſe Portions, and procure comfortable Matches for poor Maids. And generally over all Italy care is taken by ſuch Charitable Foundations, to provide for the Ne ceļlities of the Sex. Afres Vol. I. to ITALY 311 After I have given you myObſervations on the Chriſtian Churches,,you will perhaps expect an Account of the Jewiſh Synagogues. But all that I can ſay on this Subject , is that there are Seven of 'em enclos'd in t Two Ghetti, and that the Beſt of the Seven is not near ſo fine as is the † The Old and Portugueſe Synagogue in London . ( There is a Ger- The Nero. man one. ) S So the Ita. lians call thoſe Quarters or Wards of the Cities, where the Jews are but in every Night. 9 If we give Credit to the vulgar Computation, there are about Two thouſand * Jews at Venice. * There are Some of ' em are Rich, but few in compariſon Somerich Por to the Poor. They are oblig’d to wear & Red Tuqueze milies, butFanthe Hats. But I find, by Martinelli in his Ritratto, Germans are that they may be exempt from that diſagreeable Poor. Diſtinction , by paying a ſmall Sum of Money. S Their Hats They have a sort of Court that determines pet- ver'd with are uſually co a ty Suits among themſelves. They are gene- Scarlet Cloth , rally a Sort of People that never refuſe anyKind but they are of Employment, and are made uſe of on feve- Black under, ral Occaſions ; eſpecially by the Nobles, who are a very great Support to ' em. They may take the Degree of Doctors in Medicine at Pa dua, and practiſe Phyſick any where in the City and State of Venice. This is all that you muſt expect at prefent con cerning the famous City of Venice. I am, nearh . "} Venice, Apr. 16. 1688. SIR, Your, &c. I have almoſt forgot to ſatisfy your Curio fity, concerning the Article that relates to our X 4 Friend, 312 A New Voyage Vol. I. 1 Friend , and which you have expreſs’d ſo ear neft a Deſire to have explain'd. As you know him to be of aa free Temper, plain , and without Artifice in all his Ways ; a profeſſed Enemy to all Sorts of Farces, as we ſay in French : And in deed very little, or not at all inclinable to ſub mit himſelf to any capricious Cuſtoms of Man kind ; foſ you greatly defire to know whether he complies with that of wearing a Mask , and mingling himſelf, in a diſguis'd Habit among that Croud of Fools, that fill the Place St. Mark, and the Boxes in the Theatres : A Thing, fay you , which would be impoſſible for you to do; and which you cannot approve of, any more than you do of any Sort of Diſguiſe what ſoever. The firſt Thing then that I have to ſay, is , that our Friend whom you mention'd , ſome times wears a Mask : So, you have that Point clear'd at firſt , in few Words ; à Rome comme de Rome , ſays he, à Veniſe commé à Veniſe for theſe Sorts of Things : Cùm fueris Roma Romano vivito morę. Cùm fueris alibi, Vivito ficut ibi. But without endeavouring to make an Apology, here, for thoſe that think it proper to conform themſelves to the general Cuſtom , during the Carnaval, of wearing a Mask ; you ought in the firſt place to take notice, that it is impoſſible to be admitted either, in the Balls, nor in the Rin dotti ; nor in ſeveral other places where there are certain Affemblies, and honeſt Companies, without being mask'd: So that, whoever has a Mind to be inform'd by his own Eyes, of what is Vol. I, to IT AL Y. 313 is tranſacted in thoſe Places, were he as grave as Cato, muft of Neceflity be oblig’d to wear a Mask. There are alſo a great many other Things , about which one loves to ſatisfie his Curiotity, without being known; tho they are very lawful in themſelves. But in the ſecond Place, I ſhall alſo ſay , that you ſeem to me to be too ſevere, in declaring your ſelf ſo poſi tively againſt all Manner of Diſguiſes , fince there is one Sort of Diflimulation that differs in nothing from true Prudence : There is an honeſt Artifice, that agrees certainly very well with Probity . But give me Leave, I beſeech you, to tell you , that you your ſelf go mask'd every Day, without any Deſign, or perhaps without thinking of it . Is not the World a Theatre ? a Place St. Mark in which every Man is oblig'd to act his Part, very often with forc'd Complaiſance ? Pray , what is the Meaning that your Houſe at **** is ſo handſomly furniſh'd, and curiouſly adorn'd ? To what pur poſe ſerves that Galloon , and thoſe green , white, and red Liveries, with which youcloath ſome of your Servants ? What ſignifies that Perriwig , whoſe Length and Pouder are ſo troubleſom ? And what have you, who are a peaceful Man , to do to wear that Iron hang ing at your Side, and which , perhaps , may prove dangerous ? All this, believe me, is no thing elſe but Masks : Art, and Dexterity, to impoſe upon People , and to create in their Mind Notions commonly Falle. Do you think that an Anchorite, that has bid Adieu to the World for ever , would amuſe himſelf with ſuch Ways of Ading, altogether expenſive and incommodious ? No, Sir ; but we fail with the Wind ; we follow ſuch Cuſtoms, as a Cork goes 1 314 A New Voyage Vol. I. goes up and down upon your River, accord ing to the Tide. Sometimes a Monk's Habit, and ſometimes an embroider'd Cloth ; not for the Conveniency only , and Pleaſure of Life ; but for Security. I ſay Security ; for Men are, indeed, much more reſpected in this World, this vaft Piazza of San -Marco , according to their Equipage, than to their Merit. I know a Gentlewoman in London , ( let me tell you that by the by ) who had her Life ſaved by the Watermen , the Boat having been over -fet , becauſe they perceiv'd ſhe had fine Silk -Stock ings : they ran to her, neglecting the others. You evidently ſee that thoſe Stockings were Masks, and that it was by them ſhe was delivered. Pardon us then, I beſeech you, if we ſhould happen now and then , to wear fome Poliſh Dreſs, with a Black or White Noſe, which ferves as a Surtout to our own , during our Pilgrimage in Venice ; where ſuch innocent Dreſs is as neceſſary, upon certain Occaſions, as a ſhort Leather Mantle charg'd with Shells, and a Staff, are to the good Pilgrims that are travelling to St. James of Compoſtella. LETTER XIX. SIR, 11 V THHere is not any Thing worth Obſervation between Padua and Rovigo , only that the Country is even and fruitful , watered with ſe veral Rivers, and pretty well cultivated. It is every where full ofMeadows,Groves,Vineyards, and Vol. I. to ITALY 315 and well - tilld Spots ofGround.TheVenetians have there fome Houſes of Pleaſure , but the common Habitations, when you draw near to Rovigo, are but Huts made of Reeds, which a Fire would reduce to Aſhes in a very ſhort time : yet are they as merry as if they liv'd in Palaces, and may be more. We frequently obferv'd ſeveral of thoſe Country- People in Mafquerade, com ing out of thoſe Cabins , and dancing Gambols to the Tones of the Violin and Bagpipe. Theſe ruſtick Diverſions perhaps are to be preferred before the famous Confuſion of Venice. Rovigo is a poor little Town , encompaſs’d ROVIGO. with a ruinous Wall : Yet is the Reſidence of the Biſhop of Adria : that ancient and famous City, which gave irs Name to the Gulf, being now but a pitiful half-drowned Village. We mer, in the Evening , a curious German Traveller, who cou'd not forbear taking a View of the Ruins of that formerly ſo renowned Place, ( eſpecially for it's generous Wines.) But the beſt Thing he brought from it , was it's Epitaph . Laudatam tentas Hadriam luftrare, Viator ! Sed tumulata jacet, propriiſque ſepulta ruinis : Heu fuit! &tantum fupereſt informe Cadaver. Ergo, Viator, abi ; cogisaque quod Ipſe jacebis. Ferrara is very large , and pretty handſome, FERRARA . but ill peopled . Some ſay it was called Ferrara, quaſi, ferè aurea , becauſe of its rich Trade : But In the Year at preſent it is ſo poor and deſolate, that it can not be view'd without Compaſſion. In a Place jpace of Forry where Four very large Streers meet, we ſtopp'd Hours,Ferrara a while, without perceiving any one Perſon inJaffered One any of them : and they commonly ſay, that hundred and 1570. in the am Earthquake, and was almoſt all deffroyed . Schraderus. thac 316 AА New Voyage Vol. I. ز that City has more Houſes than Inhabitants. Nevertheleſs, the Territory of Ferrara is one of the beſt Parts of Lombardy ; it is a plain and fat Country, which wants nothing but Tillage ; which is look'd upon as an Effect ofthe Hard neſs of the Government. For every Place that falls into the Pope's Hands, becomes immedi ately miſerable. 11 Servierant tibi, Roma, prius Domini Dominorum. Servorum Servi tibi ſunt jam, Roma, Tyranni. Theſe Princes are uſually old ,9 and conſe quently are forc'd to do a great deal of Work in a little Timeto enrich their Families : And they rarely conſider, what may become of the Eſtate after their Death. When Ferrara was * united * About the End of the to the Holy See, under the Pontificate of Cle Tear 1597. ment VIII, that Pope built a ſtrong † Citadel the Dutcby of which is ſtill in good Order : But the other For Ferrara, Fl. tifications are quite neglected . The ancient U. turned to the Holy See, the niverſity of Ferrara is at preſent reduced toa Male Race of poor College of the Jeſuits. the Dukes beo ing Extin&t. Alfonſo wis the laſt legitimate Son of the Houſe of Ext. + Du Val th: Geographer, writes, That this Citadel cost Two Millions of Crowns of Gold. Over-againſt the Church there are two Sta. tues of Braſs, on Horſe- back ; one of which was * Borſius or erected in Honour of the good Duke * Borſo. All Borfo of Eſt, in whole favor the Ground for twenty Paces round was for Pepe Paul II, merly a Place of Refuge, or Sanctuary for Cri minals ; and the Conditions of this Privilege Marquiſate of were written on the Pedeſtal of the Statue. But Ferrara into a Dutchy. Borſo ſince the City became Subject to the Pope, this w us one of theStatue has loſt its Immunities ; and they have even moff vertuoses encroach'd ſo far on this priviledg'd Ground, Princes of his that the Pedeſtal enters into the Buildings that are eret tbe Vol. 1. to ITALY. 317 are erected behind it . However , to make a mends, there is another † San & uary of the ſame t Thele sana Extent about the * fine" Column that ſupports &tuaries are the Statue of Alexander VII. The other Statue ali ogether uſo on Horſe-backrepreſents Nicholas, Marqueſs of electro her home Crio Est , who is ftild in the Inſcription , Ter Pa-minal cou'd Gis Auctor. not avoid pea Theycarry'd us to the Ducal Palace , the ribing in the Placeof Re Marqueſs de Villa's Houſe , the Cathedral , and fuge it felf. ſeveral other Churches and Convents. But* In tbe midi tho' every one of theſe Places deſerves to be of a large opens Place. taken notice of at Ferrara, I believe you wou'd not take much Pleaſure in reading a Deſcri ption of ' em . I muſt not forget to ſend you the Epitaph of poor Arioſto, whoſe Tomb they have lately re paired in the Church of the Benedictins. Notus & Hefperiis jacet hic Areoſtus &Indis, Cui Muſa æternum nomen Hetrufca dedit . Seu Satyram in Vitio exacuit, ſeu Comica luſit, Seu cecinit grandi bella Duceſq; tubd. Ter ſummus Vates cui ſummi in vertice Pindi, Tergeminâ licuit cingere fronde comas. They carried us alſo to the Opera, wherewe ſaw nothing extraordinary. The principal Adreſs was a pretty little Songſtreſs, about Twelve or ThirteenYears old ; who that very Day was to make her firſt Eſſay on the Thea tre ; and, according to common Report , was that Evening to enter into the Private Service of one of the principal Gentlemen ofthe City. All the chief Boxes were filled with Jefuits, and fuch People. - > Tis 318 A New Voyage Vol. I. 9 RAVENNA 'Tis fifty Miles from Ferrara to Ravenna : The Sylveſter Gi- Country is pleaſant and fertil for the firſt Day's saldus writes, Journey, but afterwards becomes low , and full the Day of St. A. of Water, between the ſeveral Branches of the pollinaris all Adige and the Po. The Towns and Villages the Ravens in which we ſaw on the Road, deſerve nor to be Italy meet at mentioned. Ravenna is but half as big as Fer Ravenna, where they are rara, yet it appears at a great Diſtance, being treated with a ſituated in a plain and open Country. You are dead Horſe. not ignorant, that the ancient Geographers re He adds,that preſent its Situation almoſt like to that of Ve the City of Ravennarook nice, upon Piles in the midſt of Waters. And its Namefrom ’tis known , that this was formerly * the Princi this Cuſtom , pal Haven which the Romans had on the Adrie RAB in the tick Gulf : But this place hath ſuffer'd great German Lan. guage fignity. Alterations ſince thoſe Times ; for not only the ing a Raven. Lagunes are dried up, but the Sea is alſo retired This is one of three Miles from it; and theſe Plains, that were themostFables ridi. formerly drown'd, are at preſent the moſt fruit that ever was ful Fields in Italy. It is not to be doubted , invented ; and but the preſent Ravenna is the Ravenna of the bejides, this, Ancients, as it appears evidently from feveral City was cal ancient Monuments. But that the Sea did ever led Ravenna before theGer- come up as high as the Walls of the City, ac manLanguage cording to the common Opinion, it is a Mat Was ſpoken. I ter of Fact that I don't believe : And thoſe Rings was informºd, by a Learned ' of Iron which ſerv'd formerly , as they ſay, to Man at Ra- faften the Veſlels, methinks, they only prove at venna, that the beſt, that ſome Barks might comeup thi be had found ther , through a Canal ; for large Veſſels are the ſame Story in lume Au never faften'd after that manner. This City hath been ſo often ruin'd by the wrote before Wars, that there are but few Marks left of it's Giraldus.

• Clarlem firſt Antiquity : It is at preſent poorly built, and Myſeni, alte.very thinly peopled, aswell as Ferrara ; never ram Ravennæ theleſs, I found in ic fome Things not unwor ad tutelam Superi & Inferi Maris. Suet, in O & av. S. 49.

thy ز thors who yol. I. to I TAL Y. 319 11 a thy of Obſervation . That Circumſtance alone, of the wonderful Change which hath happen'd in its Situation is, in my Opinion, a ſufficient Reaſon for a curious Traveller to give it a Viſit by the Way: Without the Walls, near the ancient Haven, there is a Mauſoleum , which Amalaſuntha erected for her Father Theodoric, King ofthe Oſtrogoths, who kept his Reſidence at Ravenna. They have turned this Building into a little Church, which they call the Rotonda . The moſt remarkable Thing about it , is that large and weighty The Stone is Stone, hollowed, or made concave in a sort of not bor'd thro? a flat Cupola, with which this Church is co - some have the middle, as ver'd. I meaſured this Stone, and found it to written. They be thirty eight Foot in Diameter, and fifteen in lay at Raven Thickneſs. The Tomb of Theodoric was on the na, shat it Top, in the midſt of that little Dome, between weighs above Two hundred the Statues of the Twelve Apoſtles, which were therland placed on the Sides round about. Theſe Sta - Pounds. tues were broken during the laſt Wars of Louis XII, and the Tomb which is of Porphyry, was alſo overthrown : They have ſet it ſince in the Wall of an ancient Palace in the City where we ſaw it. After that Prince had put Boëtius and Symmachus to Death, as the Prieſt that conducted us , told us , he was ſo continually frighten'd by their Ghoſts, that he fled to the other World to avoid ' em ; but that his Tomb, as well as his Bones, has been wandering ſince that Time. The Cathedral is an old Church, the Nave or Body of which is ſupported by fifty ſix Pil lars of Marble, of the Archipelago, which make a double Row on each side. The Choir is vaulted with a fine Moſaick ; and there they keep in great Veneration, one of the Stones with which St. Stepben was ftoned to Death. Buc 320 A Nein Voyage Vol. I. Tree . a Pliny makes But the greateſt Curioſity in this Church is the Statue of Ju- great Door, whichis made of Planks of Vines , piter, and as ſome of which are twelve Foot high, and four szor her of Ju- teen or fifteen Inches broad. TheGround here no, that were abouts is ſo agreeable to the Vines , in that made of Vine very Place which the Sea formerly covered , ac cording to the general Opinion, that it makes them grow prodigiouſly big. I have read , if I remember, in the Travels of Olearius, that he found near the Caſpian Sea, the Bodies of Vines of the Thickneſs of a Man. They ſhew in the Church of the Theatines, a little Window above the great Altar, in the midſt of which is the figure of a white Pigeon , which is placed there for a Memorial, that after the Death of St. Apollinariuss firſt Biſhop of Ra venna, the Prieſts being aſſembled to chooſe his Succeflor, the Holy Ghoſt, as they ſay, came in at that Window in the Shape of a Dove, and perch'd upon him , who was to be elected : They add, that the ſame thing happen'd Eleven times after, ſucceſſively ; but ſince that time , they have done their Buſineſs without ſupernatural Affiſtance. Platina after Euſebius, teils the like Story of the Election of Pope Fabian , or rather of Fabian Biſhop of Rome. There are very fine Pieces of Marble and Por phyry in the Churches of St. Vitalis, St. Apollina rius, St. Romoaldus, and St. Andrew , which were brought from Greece , and probably during the + The Exar. Time of the † Exarchate. chate compreo The Tomb of Galla Placidia *, Siſter to the kended Ra- Emperors Arcadius and Honorius, is in the Church venna, Bo of lonia , Imola , Fayence, Forli, Ceſena, Bobia, Ferrara, and Adria. The Exarch , er Gover . nor, ſent by the Emperor of the Eaſt, kept his Reſidence at Ravenna. There have been 18 in all. The firſt callid Longinus, was ſent by the Emperor Juſti nus, Anno 567 ; and Eutychius was the lajt, about the rear 728. And Daughter to Theodoſius the Great. There is another Tomb of this Princeſs in the Church of St Aquilin At Milan: Vol. I. to ITALY 321 of St. Celfus, between thoſe of Valentinian and Honorius. They aſſur’d us , that this is a very fine Monument; but we could not ſee it, be cauſe he who had the Key was abſent. · We ſaw the Tomb of the Poet * Dantes, in the Cloy . * Dante Da ſter of the Conventual Franciſcans. I tranſcrib'd lighieri, a Florenti ), a the Epitaph, principally for the Curioſity of the Man ofexam Rhimes, which is as follows: lity and great Merit, dieding Exile at Ravenna , in the Year 1321, and the 56 Year of his age. He was beste mifb'd becauſe be fided with the Gibbelins. Jura Monarchia, Superos, pblegetona, Lacuſq; Laſtrando cecini, voluerunt Fata quouſq ; Sed quia pars cilic melioribus hofpita caftris, Factoremq; ſuum petiit felicior aftris : Hic claudor Dantes, Patriis extorris ab oris, Quem genuit parvi Florentia mater amoris. Another which was added when Cardinal Bembo repair'd this Monument. Exiguâ Tumuli Danthes híc forte jacebas, Squallenti nulli cognite pene ſitu. At nunc marmoreo fubnixus conderis arcu , Omnibus da cultu ſplendidiorenites. Nimirum + Bembus Mufis incenſus Hetrufcis, † Peter Bemia Hoc tibi, quem in primis ha coluere, dedit. bo, a Noble Thereis in the grand Place a very fair Brazen Venetian,and A Cardinal : Statue of Pope Alexander VII. Andyou may ſee A Man of at the other End of the ſame Place, two Co - Learning and lumns, upon which were the ancient Patron,and great Merito , the Arms of Venice, while Ravenna belong’d to that State ; it being their Cuſtom to erect the like Columns in all the Cities of their Demeines : But the Pope has plac'd on the fame Pillars, the Sta tues of St. Victor, and St. Apollinaris, who are the Patrons of Ravenna. They madeus obſerve, near this Place, under a Portico , the Gates of Y Braſs, . 322 A New Voyage Vol.I, IS12 . His venna, Braſs, and ſome other Spoils which thoſe of Ra * The Eaſter- vinna took from Pavia : and which they preſerve Day, 11 Apr. for a Memorial of the happy Succeſs of that Expedition. Tomb, with an Epitaph , is to Revenna has neverbeen able to repair the Loſſes beſeen in the it ſuffer'd by the Forces of Lewis XII. At preſent, Church of S. there is nothing to be ſeen ,butthe miſerable Re Martha, at mainders of its former Glory. Three Miles from Milan . The Factions ofthe the Town, ſtands the Monument that was ereded Raſponis and for the young , and brave Gafton de Foix, Duke of Lupardis,un- Nemours, Nephew to King Lewis XII, and Gene der the X.properal have ofhis Armies; who was * kill'd in this Place been veryfa. after he had gaind the Battel. There are no tal to Ra. Foot- ſteps lefc of the Amphitheatre which was built by Theodoric ; nor of the ancient Aqueduct + This was a mention'd by Blondus. retiring Place of the Bandits A good Hour from Ravenna we entred into before the Pon- a † Foreſt of Pines, which is Four Miles'long, tificate ofSixe and whoſe Pine-Apples, they told us , are di CERVIA,ftributed all over Italy. The Sea is not far om ,, on the Left- hand ; and on the Right, are choſe Town and Bi. Marlhes, which reach out of sight towards the Seetheinſtru.Apennine. After we had paſſed the River Savio ina & tions toa Ferry Boat, we wentthro' the little City of Cervia, Traveller, at which is in the Midſt of a bogey Country, where the End ofthis they hardly make any Thing but Salt. Weſtope CESENATE to dine atCeſenate, on the Sea -ſide ; and Three See the Sup. Miles from thence we found our felves on the plement, and Banks ofthe || Rubicon , which they alſo call * Ps she Inftru. Satello. Our Coach forded that famous Brook ; which I knew from Lucan to be no great River. Traveller. this is the Fonte cadit modico, parviſq; impellitur undis. Frumicino , An Hourafter we took our Way by the Sea about two hun- fide. The Sand is firm and even, without any from the Pila.. Rocks or Shells . We purſu'd chis Way till we tello. came within a Mile of Rimini; where we were oblig'd to quit the Coaſt, that we might paſs the tus V. & poor little Book &tions to a Others ſay dred Paces Vol. I. to ITALY 323 the River formerly called Ariminum , which has the ſame Name with the City whoſe Walls it waſhes : But at preſent it bears the Name of Marechia. Rimini is a little poor City ; yet che Soil is RIMINI. rich, and well cilld. It wasfortify'd by Sigif- This City is mund Pandolpbus Malatefta ; but ac preſent ithas der' iban 485 Years ole only a Wall, and that in no good Condition. Rome, if we You know the Malateſta's were formerly Lords believe a great of ſeveral Places in this Province. The Bridge many Writers: of Marble, on which there are Two veryentire aRomanCo Inſcriptions, by which it appears ,, that it was lony 266 Years built by Auguſtus and Tiberius ; and the Trium- before theBirth pital-Arch erected by Auguftus, are the two Prin- of Chriſt. It is . Bijhoprick. cipal Monuments ofthis city. There are alſo to See the Inftrisa be ſeen, fome ſmall Ruins of an Amphitheater, &tions, &c. behind the Garden of the Capuchins. And five hundred Paces farther, without the City , chere is a Tower of Brick, which was, ſay they, the Pharos of the ancient Haven ; but the Sea is fal len back half a Mile from this Place, and the Pharos is at preſent encompaſſed with Gardens. P. Malateſta finiſhed the Deſtruction of the Har bour, which was once accounted one of the fineſt in Italy, to build the Church of St. Francis, with the pieces of Marble which he took from thence. This Church, if it were finiſh'd, might paſs for a fine Structure. There they keep a Notre dame, which ferves for nothing but to bring Rain, or ſtop it, when there is either too liccle or too much ; ' tis her only Uſe. The Library of the Coune de Gambalonga is very numerous, but there are no Rarities in it, if we may give credit to him who ſhewed it to us. They made us obſerve, in the Midſt of the * Suggeſtumai Market-place, a Kind of * Marble -Pedeſtal, on if the Thing is which theſe words are Engraved : Caius Cæſar at lealt primo Diet. Rubicone Superato civili bel. Commilit, fuos hicbables in not true ALS Y 2 324 A New Voyage Vol. 1. Al Lido del in foro Ar. adlocutus. The Statue of Paul V, iin Bials, is in another open Place ; and near to that a Marble Fountain of good Workman Ship. Departing from Rimini, we trave!ld on the Downs for fifteen Miles, between the Sea and the Fields. I obſerv'd, as we paſſed thro' the CATHOLI- Village Catholica , over the Gate of the great СА . Church , an Inſcription, which ſays , That a Council of Biſhops, who were almoſt all Arians, Mare, effindo la Marina being aſſembled at Rimini, in the Year 359, the quieta e Pic Orthodox perform'd their Devotions in this Vil acevole dono mura fe ve- lage , which has ever ſince born the Name of Ca con le comme-tholica. You know the Hiſtory of this Council , to delle Torri if it may be properly ſo call’d. d'altri edi. Ten or Twelve Miles from thence, towards fici della città che Appennine, you may perceive the little Town di Conca già and Republick of St. Marino on the Top of a da'l Marfume Mountain , at the Foot of which are the Limits merja. L. Alb. of that State. This little State has maintained it ſelf very happily for ſeveral Ages : Becauſe, being always obedient to the Will of the Pope, within whoſe Territories it is ſituated ; 'tis nei ther expos’d to the Envy or Jealouſy of his Ho lineſs, nor of any other. It is about fix or ſeven Miles from Catholica to Peſaro. All this Country is ſtrewed with pleaſant Houſes, and very well cultivated . PESARO. Pelató is larger, better built, neater and plea C. Rom, fanter than Rimini : Its Situation is upon a ſmall A.U.C.569, A Bijkoprick ." Aſcent, which makes the Air purer and freer : The Air of Nothing can be more plealant than the liccle Pefaro is good Hills that ſurround it, which form a charming in Winter , but bad in Sum-. Mixture of Paſtures, Vineyards, and Orchards: mer,, and ex .The Olives are admirable , but the Figs are bec treamiy dan . ter, and more efteem'd than all the other Fruits ; gerous And Auguſt in July The Figs of Peſaro are famous over all Italy. The The Dukes of Urbin kept iheir Reſidence bere in the Winter. beft Vol . I. to ITALY. 325 ܪ beſt Meat coſts not above three Bigoques the Pound , which weighs Eighteen Ounces; that is, ſomewhat leſs than two Farchings. The Bread and the Wine are proporcionably cheaper ; and fo of the reſt. The Sea and the Rivers furnish it alſo with all Sorts of excellept Fiſh ; ſo that in all reſpects this City is excellently provided with all the Conveniences of Life. It is tolera bly well * fortified, tho' ſomewhat after the old By John Faſhion ; and the Houſes are generally pretty Sforza. handſome. We found no ancient Monuments in it. There is a very fine Fountain in the great Place ;; and a Statue of Pope Urban VIII, un der whoſe Pontificate , this City , and all the Dutchy of Urbin were reunited to the Ecclefia aſtical State. At our Departure from Peſaro, we coafted again FANO. along the shore for Seven Miles, till we arriv'd Fanum , Fa at tano : The Way continues ftill , as I repre- na . A Bijbopa num Farrue næ fented it on the other side of Rimini ; only the rick. Sea cafts forth great Heaps of Acorns, Chef- Sce the Intr nuts, Cypreſs-Nuts, Ruſhes, Leaves , and divers ctions , &c . orher Things which probably come from the Ri vers, and are driven back from time to time by the Wind. One of our Company found on the Sand , one of thoſe little Fiſhes which they call in this Country Cavalletto ; in France ſome call it , Cheval Marin , or the Sea Horſe ; and others the Little - Dragon. I have often ſeen it in Cabinets of Curiofities ; and I believe you e alſo know it. It foon grows dry , and is eaſily preſerved, without farther Trouble. It is cer tain , this Cavalletto hath ſomething of the Head and Neck of a Horſe. ' Tis ſaid the Female has no Hair on its Neck. This Hair falls off when the Animal begins to grow dry. They attribute ſeveral Properties to it ; and they aftured us at Fans among other things, that it cures the Mao Y 3 nefs 326 A New Voyage Vol. I. a а neſs, that is occaſion’d by the Biting of a Mad Dog, being eaten roaſted, and applied to the Wound, beaten with Honey and Vinegar. Fano is a little City : We found nothing re See the Inc markable in it bat a Triumphal-Arch ; the In ſtructions, C. ſcriptions of which are almoſt quite defaced . This Arch has three Gates , whereas that of Ri mini is only a ſingle one. They boaſt of the Earth -Nuts or Truffs of Fano; and pretend, that the Women are more beautiful in this place than in any other ; I don't know if this pretended Advantage could not be diſputed. (I remember, that being at Oxford, I got ac quainted with a Company of young German Travellers, who told me they went on purpoſe from Cambridge, to a certain little Town not many Miles from thence , to ſee the Women of that Place, who had the Reputation of being handſome, and that to ſpeak impartially, they found the Generality of 'em to be fo .) In the ſame Country, a Mile from hence, we paſſed on a Wooden - Bridge , about five or fix hundred Pacès long, over the ſeveral Branches of the Torrent callid Pongio, which drowns all this Extent of Ground, when the Snow on the Appennine begins to melt : And afterwards we took the Wayon the Sea -ſide, forFifteen Miles; SENEGAL- to Senegallia. Tho' this is an old Ciry, we could LIA. find no Marks of its Antiquity ; it is encloſed Sena. Sena ; with Walls, which are defended by ſome Ba Gallica . Se. nogallia. ftions, but the whole is very irregular. A Biſboprick. By good Fortune, and rather becauſe of our Wearineſs than for any thing elſe, werefuſed to go ſee a Play, which was acted at the Gover nour's Houſe . The next Morning, which was the Day before Yeſterday, they came to tell us, that a little before the End of the Play, the Arch which ſupported the Theater, with Part of the Hall, > ز Vol. I. to ITALY. 327 Hall, and the firſt Boxes fell under the Weight with which it was over- loaded : That thirty Perſons were killed on the Spot, and a great many others wounded ; and that all this little City was in a great Diſorder, and unſpeakable Amidion on this Occaſion : There ſcarcely be ing any conſiderable Family which had not a Share in this Misfortune; which puts me in mind of thar Simonides of whom ValeriusMaximus ſpeaks, that his good Genius forc'd him out of a Houſe that fell down a Moment after. Socrates own'd that he had a Guardian Angel that preferv'd him after the fame manner. Departing from Senegallia , we follow'd again the Sea - Coaſt , and travelled ſeventeen Miles, without finding any Houſes but an old Cattle, and ſome Taverns about a hundred Paces from the Sea ; but near the little Village called la Turrette, we got into the Land-way for three Miles to Ancona, where we now are. This City ANCONA. is feated on a double Hillock, at the Point of 4 Bijbeprick. ' Twas ſurprio che Promontory. It is bigger than any one of zed by Cle the four or five Towns laſt mention'd , but not ment VII , much richer ; though its Haven is very good , Anno 1532; and the Country about it very fruitful. " " Tis and ſince that ftrange, that the Trade is quite ruin'd ,in a Place long'd ime hasto be which was formerly ſo famous for it. Ecclefiaftical Traders of all Religions may live at Ancona, provided they make no pube lick Exerciſe of any, beſides the Religion of the Country. They whiten Wax very well at Ancona , says Du Val. ' Tis true, that after the like Example of Ant werp, we ought not to be ſurpriz'd at any Acci dent of this Nature. The Streets of Ancona are narrow, and conſequently dark : There are nei ther very fair Houſes, nor fine Piazza's , nor conſiderable open Places in it ; and the Uneven neſs of its Situation ,renders it very inconvenient. Thę A Siate. YA 328 A New Voyage Vol. I. The Citadel which you ſee on the firſt Aſcent, as you enter, commands both the City and the Haven. And on the other Hill , which makes the Point of the Cape, is the Church of St. Cyr riack, to which we aſcended with a great deal of Trouble and lit : le Satisfaction. It is a low and dark Edifice, the Frone of which indeed is co ver'd with fine Marble, but without any Order or Ornament of Architecture. That which is principally eſteem'd in this Church, by the Peo ple ofthe Country , are the pretended Bodies of ſome pretended Saints,with many Relicks. They boaſt they have St. Urſula, as well as thoſe of Cologn. As for us, what pleaſed us beft, was the Proſpect which we had of the Sea, of the City, and of a pleaſant Country. At the Entrance of the Mole, or Peer , there is a Triumphal- Arch of very fine white Marble ; which Arch was e sected for Trajan , by Order of the Senate. I took the Inſcriptions, becauſe they are not exa&ily reported in ſome Books I have ſeen : they run fc in Jarge capital Letters. Imp. Caf. Divi Nervæ F. Nerva Trajano Optimo Aug. Germanic. Dacico. Pont. Max. Tr. Pot. XVIII. Imp. XI. ' Coſ: VII. P. P. Providentiſſimo Principi S. P. Q. R. quod Adceffum Italiæ boc etiam addito ex pecunia ( ua Portum tutiorem Navigantibus, reddiderit. On the right Side, Plotine Auguft. Conjugi Auguft. On the Left, Diva Marciance Augs Sorori Aug. This Inſcription, which is ſtill very entire , let us know, that it was erected in Acknowledgment of Vol. I, to ITALY 379 of the Bounty of that Prince, who repair'd the Harbour at his own Charge. They told us, while wewere conſidering this Monument, that certain Monks had ofcencimes earneſtly requeſt ed, that they might employ the Materials of it for fome Ule in their Convent : And that at laſt they were fain to drive them away with Threats, to be rid of their Importunity. The Exchange where the Merchants meet, is a Sort of Portico of a reaſonable Bigneſs. There were at the four Corners of the Arch , four Statues , which repreſented Faith , Hope, Charity, and Religion. But there . happen'd an Earthquake ſome Years ago, which Thook the three Virtues, and threw down Religion. I cannot forbear giving you ſome Account of the Habits, which , thanks to the Feſtival, we ſaw here to Day. The principal Burghers uſu ally wear a black Cloak, lined with green ; blue or Filemot Stockings ; Shoes whited with Chalk, and tied with coulour'd Ribbon ; the Doublets unbutton'd ; the Facing of the Sleeves with Em broidery of ſeveral Colours , and great Shire Sle ves,which hang down to their Fingers Ends. The ordinary Citizens Wives and Daughters wear a Kind of Toilet on their Heads , with a long Fringe which covers their Faces, and drives away the Flies like Horſe-trappings. The Body of their Gown is red or yellow, lac'd before and behind, and on both sides, and all overlaid with Galoon , like a Suit of Livery . The Waft coat ſhort, their Perricoats of the ſame Size, and the whole of fifty ſeveral Colours: The great Ladies are deck'd and trimm'd up as much as they can after the French Mode : But to ſpeak theTruth, their Apiſhneſs is more awkward and Grotesk, than the others natural Dref ſing. All this does neither good nor hurt ; but there ز 330 A New Voyage Vol.I. there is another Cuſtom which prevails in this Country, eſpecially from Ferrara, and as we were inform'd , almoſt all over Italy , and is very inconvenient,eſpecially at this Time of the Year, They have no Glaſs-Windows, and their Cham ber-Windows are made of Linnen or Paper, which is always torn ; ſo that they are forc'à to invent Machines every Evening, to ſhelter them ſelves from the cold Weather. This made us ſometimes bewail the Loſs of our Straw in Gera many, where, if we wanted Beds, we had at leaſt a good Stove, well heated and cloſed. To compleat our Misfortunes, they commonly brought us a Fricaffee of three Eggs, or as ma ny Pilchards, for the Supper of five or fix Per fons. You muſt fight for your Viduals, and yet pay as much as for the beſt Entertainment. The ſeteld Price is, ſo much a Head, three About Fifin Jules for Dinner, and four for Supper, on ac French Sols. Polybius re count of the Bed, which amounts pretty near to lates, that in four Shillings a Day. his Time ( so bout the Year 550. ) they had a good Meal in Italy for a Denier. Hofpites, viatoribus honeſtè acceptis, & omnibus ad vi&tum neceſſariis abunde fubminiftratis, non amplius quam filiquam capiunt ; hæc oboli tercia pars eft. I am inform'd the Poſt is juſt going, which makes me finiſh my Letter, that I may notmiſs the Opportunity of ſending it to you. I will add only one Word, touching the Flux and Reflux of the Sea. You muſt know , that it is more or leſs obſervable, according to the Diſtance from the Bottom, or Extremity of the Gulf. At Ve nice the Tides riſe four Foot and a half, or thereabouts ; near to Ravenna three, at Peſaro two, and one at moſt at Ancona ; ſo that at laſt it decreaſes to nothing. I hope Vol. I. to ITALY. 331 I'hope we ſhall arrive at Loretto to Morrow a bout Noon, and you may aſſure your ſelf I ſhall uſe all poſſible means to give you an exa& Acs count of the Santa Caſa. I am , SIR, Ancona, Feb. 24. 1688. Your, & c. LETTER XIX. I SIK, Believe there is not in Italy a better Country , nor a worſe Road, than between Ancona and Loretto : where we arriv'd Yeſterday like poor Pilgrims, weary and dirty, having been often times forced toalight to eaſe the Coach. All the World hath heard of our Lady of LORETTO . Loretto : But ſince there isa conſiderable Variety a Biſhoprick in the Accounts that are given of this place, and united to Re- , the Matter of it ſelf is very curious ; I intend to . give you an Abridgment of all that I ſaw or > heard on this Occaſion. The Houſe which is here call's, Sacratiſſimo Sacello. Glorioſa Cella . Domus aurea . entiæ , Vas infigne Devotionis. Sanctuarium Dei. Propitiatorium Altiſſimi. Civitas Refugii. Puteus Aquarum viventium . Terror Dæmonum . Spes deſpe rantium. Gloria Jeruſalem . Tabernaculum Fæderis. Solium Gloriæ Dei. Sacrarium Divinitatis. Sacroſan ta Cafa, &c. is ſaid to be the ſame in which the Virgin Mary was born, where she was betroth'd and Domus Sapi 332 A New Voyage Vol. 1. and married to Joſeph, where the Angel ſaluted her, and where the Son of God was Incarnated. J. Cartegeno, E tanta è la dignisd di queſto luogho, coſi ſublime la in the Book , Maejtd, ch'à tutti i facri luoghi, che sono ſotto il Cie In ' ituled ciniitalia di , Arlo . , e preferito il ſacello di Loretto. That is, And ſo great isthe Dignity of this place, so ſublime is its Ma jeſty, that before all the Holy Places under Heaven , the Chappel of Loretto is to be preferred. They pretend, Terribile that this Houſe was tranſported by Angels, from é Naz reth to Dalmatia , and there plac'd on a little queſto lu og ho quale Mountain called Terſatto, May 10. 1291. It had altro non é remain'd there but three Years and ſeven Months, che caſa di when the Angels took it away again ,andbrought Dio del Paradiſo , & porta it to the Middle of a Foreft, in the Territory of . Jacobin, ..4 Recanati Recanati ,, which is in the Marche of Anconi. The celeſtial Melody awakened the Inhabitants of the Neighbourhood, who flock d together from all Parts, and ſaw the Miracle, by the fa vour of a great Light, with which the little There is a Geor Houſe was ſurrounded. Nature her -ſelf leap graphicalGari ed for Joy, and the very Oaks of the Forelt, se befold at bowed themſelves to pay Homage to it ; they Loretto , shich deſcribes wanted only a Voice like thoſe of Dodona . , AF all the Travels ter this Houſe had continu'd there Eight whole of the Santa Months, it cou'd not endure the Thieveries and Caſa . Murders that were continually committed about thar Place ; ſo that it was taken up a third time, and carried a Mile further to the ſame Hill , on which it ſtands at preſent : But it was no ſooner The Learned . come thither, than a Controverſie aroſe be Laſſels demon tween two Brothers, to whom the Land belong frates the ed , each defiring to have it in his Share. This Truth of this was the Cauſe, that four Months after the An S'orgby Four doughry Agreements. 1. By the Omnipotence of God . 2. By th? Probahility of the matter of Faf, by Reaſon of the Intelligence, or Angel that moves the Pria mum Mobile, 3. By the great Number of rish Prefents, which so many Prizzo ces have ſent. 4. By the Antiquity of the paintings, of whish there are fente Fragments to be ſeen in the Santa Caſa and Pious gels Vol. I. to ITALY. 333 gels lifted it up a fourth Time, and ſet it down f me Paces from thence, in the Midſt of the High -way ; from whence it has never ſtirred fince. ' Tis true , to prevent the Inconveni encies to which this Place, as well as the others expoſed it ; and perhaps alſo to prevent the Miſ fortune of a new Change, they built in the ſame Place a magnificent Church , in the Midſt of which remains the Santa Caſa, free from all manner of Inſults or Injury. And for its beton ter Preſervation , they have ſince erected four Walls, which encompaſs it , in the Church , and cloſe it up as in a Box, without touching it at all , left the two Walls, ( the Old one and the New being uniced, ) ſhould one Day be con founded together. Some alledge another Rea ſon of this Separation ; and ſay, That the Stones recoiled with violence , and wounded the Work men, when they would have joined it to the Holy Building ; ſo that they were forc'd to leave a Space between them . All the Beauties of Sculpture , and Architecture, were diſplay'd on that Occaſion ; or at leaſt all the moſt curi ous Artiſts in the Beginning of the laſt Age, were employed in this work. It is of the Co rinıbian Order, and of white Marble of Carrara, with excellent Balo Relievo's, in which all the Hiſtory of the Virgin is repreſented. There are alſo two Niches, one above, and another be tween the double Columos. In the ten Niches below , are the Stacues of ten Prophets ; and in the upper Niches, thoſe of ten Sibyls. The ancient It is within this, that the Santa Caſa is en. Key of the clos'd , which conſiſts of one Chamber, or ra Santa Caſa is ther of one Hall. It is forty four Roman Palmes Dominicans kept by the long within, eighteen broad, and 23 high ; that of Farfa , ( 25 is to ſay, 32 Foot ; a Palm and a half making Miles from juſt thirteen Inches, Engliſh meaſure. Rome) as bring á Relick. They 1 . 334 New Voyage Vol. I. Theywould have thoſe very People who live on the Place, believe, that this Houſe is built of certain unknown Stones, that the Story of its being comefrom a remote Country, may ſeem probable. But what they ſay of thoſe Stones is frivolous: I have examin'd the Matter. ' Tis true , they have purpoſely made choice of Bricks of different Shapes, and unequal Bigneſs , toge ther with ſomeflat and greyiſhor reddiſh Stones, which are common every where. But if this Affe & tation ſerves for any thing, ' tis oaly to make the Cheat more viſible, and to confound theſe Impoſtors. The whole is built with Lime and Sand, as our ordinary Houſes, but the Pieces, ill joinedand fitted together, Teem to evince, thar this work was done in hafte. I will beg leave to make a little Digreſſion , to acquaint you with a Thought which comes in my Head on this Occaſion. It was under the Pontificate of Boniface VIII, that this pretended * It is he of Miracle happen'd*. And if you make any Re whom ' tis Jaid fleation on the Life of that famous Fox , who is that beraise repreſented in all Hiſtories, as themoſtCunning, himſelf to the Papel Dignitythe moft Ambitious, and moſt Covetous of all the Men in the World; and if you add to theſe liv'd like a Conſiderations, that of his Power and Authori Lion, and dy'd ty, you will grant, without Difficulty, that he like a Dog . It was hewho was a Man fit to undertake ſuch a Cheat as this . invented and After he had counterfeited Angels who fright firft wore the ed good Celeftin , his Predeceffor, and obliged Triple Crown. him to return to his Hermitage, after he had Intravic uc vulpes, reg. abdicated the Popedom : It is not at alf impro navit ut leo, bable, that he made uſe of the fame Angels for 'mortuus ut the Contrivance of the S. Caſa. It was a great deal capis. much eaſier Task to build ſuch a little Houſe See the Mo. in one Night, than to build a Mill with all its rale Pratique Appurtenances, as the Jeſuits once did . The of the Jeſuits. Feluits have ſufficiently been convicted of play like a Fox , ing Plate 10 , The Lady of Loretto Vols. Pag.33 5 SITION ! 当 my VIE 1

Vol. I. to ITALY 335 ing of that Trick at Ste. Foy, near Granada ; and the Truth of this is maintained by the famous Mr. Arnaud, in one of his Letters to the Biſhop of Malaga. But let us return to the Santa Caſa. You maycomprehend, by what I have ſaid, of the new Walls round about, that you cannot ſee the Outſide ; and conſequently what I ſpeak of muſt be within. The Maſon's Work is al moſt all open to view , but there are ſome Frag ments of Plaiſter covered with Painting, from which one might conjecture, that all the Walls were formerly cover'd with it. The Image of the Virgin holding the little Jefus between her Arms, appears in five or fix Places in the Re mainders of the Painting. This Holy Taber nacle is ſituated from Eaſt to Weſt, tho' this man ner of building Churches is not much obſerv'd in Italy. Towards the Eaſt is the little Chimney of the Chamber, and over it, in a Nich, ſtands the great Lady of Loretto. They ſay this I mage of our Lady is of Cedar-Wood ; and they have been inform'd, by a thouſand Revelations, that it was the Workmanſhip of St. Luke : the is about four Foot high *. The Ornaments with * She hath which ſhe is ſometimes deck'd, are of an ine great number ſtimable Value. Her Triple Crown, which is of Robes for all cover'd with Precious Stones t, was the Pre- change, and ferven different ſent of Lewis XIII, King of France. They Mourning Han told me this Diftich was Engrav'd on the Inſide bits for the Holy Week . Whenever they Tu Caput ante meum cinxifti, VIRGO, Corona, dreſs ber,they Nunc Caput ecce teget noſtra Corona tuum. great deal of On each ſide of the Nich , there are Preſſes foll Ceremony. of the ancient Ornaments of the Statue ; and † The King ala so gave a in the other little Window, which is made in Crown to the the Wall on the South fide, they preſerve ſome Infans, earthen . 6 of it. . do it with a 336 A New Voyage Vol.

earthen Dishes, which ſerv'd for the Uſe of the Holy Family . There are many of theſe Vel. fels which are cover'd with Plates of Gold ; but we could ſee but one of ' em in that Place , which is cover'd underneath with Silver. They would make us believe, that this Porringer is made of a ſtrange Kind of Earth ( and they might have eaſily found ſuch ; ) but it is only Potter's Ware, the Enamel of which is not ſo carefully ſcrap d off, but that it appears ſtill in ſome parts. O ver-againſt our Lady, at the End which looks * They add, Weſtward, is the Windowat which they ſaythe that ibe Virus Angel enrred. This Window ſeemed to me gin war faying about three Foot in Height and a little leſs in over her Beads Breadth . when the An . gel enter'd. They could not tell me what was become of the old Roof, nor the little Steeple that is ob ferved in the ancient Pi&ures which repreſent this Houſe ; for, the preſent Vault is of a later and their proper Uſe ſhould be to appeaſe Stormis Fabrick. As for the oldwhen they have ' em , immediately with their Sound ; but they never uſe them for fear of wearing them. I muſt not forget two conſiderable Things, which they ſay, were tranſported at the ſame time with the Houſe : The Altar made by the Hands of the Apoſtles themſelves, and the Stone on which St. Peter celebrated his firſt Maſs. This is covered with Silver, and is plac'd among the Relicks, under the Altar where they uſually of ficiate. The Pavement of the Cafa is of ſquare Pieces of white and red Marble . This is not the old Floor, for, they ſay, the Angels left it at Nazareth, with the Foundations of the Houſe. To confirm the Story of the Tranllation, they inſiſt on this Argument, chat, as they affirm , it åppears, that it has really no Foundation , but is fixed on the Earth juſt as it fell from Heaven : à ftrorig Argument: You Vol. I. to ITALY 337 7 ments.

You enter this Sacred Place by three Doors, None are per two of which are near the Face which looks to miteed to come the Weſt, and open a Paſſage to croſs the Room in with offon from North to Soutb : And through theſe two B Bartoli. five Arms . Doors the Pilgrims are let in. The other is alſo people are fof on the South Side, but towards the East , and leads ferd to lick to the Place called the San & uary ; that is , the he Wals, bue pretend, Space between the Altar , and the End of the that tholewho Chamber where our Lady, ſtands. have been lo I will not pretend to give you an Account of bold, astotake the Riches which are in this place : For ſuch an away the leaft Undertaking wou'd be equally tedious and diffi- have been pu . cult : And therefore I ſhall content my ſelf with nifh'd with telling you, the Spectator is amaz’d to behold the terrible Judeo infinite Number of precious * Stones with which Sometimes the Mantle of the Statue is adorn'd : There is but Chryftal, nothing all around but Lamps, Statues, Bufts, Doublers and and other Figures of Gold and Silver. Not to parily ſuch Stuff mention the large Silver- gilt Candleſticks which The Crown of are eight and twenty in Number : There are Gold which Twelve of maffy Gold , of ſeven and thirty Attalus Sene Pound weight each. The laſt rich Offering to Romero, be plac'd in is always left for ſome time, in a Place fram'd the Capitol, on purpoſe , before the Eyes of our Lady.wegbd 246 That which at preſent occupies that honou- Pounds. rable Place , is an Angel of Gold , holding a Heart bigger than an Egg, all covered over * Ha talked wich Diamonds of great Value. The Engliſh + Je much of the ſuite who conducted us , told us , it was a Pre. formerly fan ſent of the Queen of England. This Reverend mous Mado Father inform'd us alfo of a great Piece of News, fingham , (ini nas of Wale of which, you ought, in my opinion, to have she County of given us fome Advice. He aſſured us, that that Norfolk ) and Princeſs .was big with Child , and added , that of that of the undoubtedly it was by a Miracle ; ſince they Undercroft, at Canterbus had calculated, that the very Moment in which ry, which were as rich as this is, and no leſs Miraculous. ( See Erafmr , Peregrin . ) z the 338 A New Voyage Vol.1 . 1 the Preſent entred , was the happy Minute in which the Conceived . He made the following Verſes upon this Sub ject, and would needs give me a Copy of ' em. He introduces the Angel ſpeaking to the Lady, and the Lady anſwering. ( Ang. ) Salve, VIRGO potens : En ſupplex Angelus adfum , Reginæ Anglorum munera , vota, fero. Perpetuos edit gemitus mæſtiſſima Princeps; Sis pia, &afflictæ quampetit affer opem . Caſta Maria petit ſobolem ; petit Anglia ; Summi

• To wit, in Pontificis * titubans Relligióq; petit.

Great- Britain Inculti miſerere uteri : Sitientia tandem Viſcera, fæcundo fonte rigare velis. ( Virg. ) Nuncie Cæleftis, Regina vota fecundo : Accipiet focii pignora chara cori. Immo, Facobus, dum tales fundo loquelas Dat, petit amplexus ; concipit illa . Vale. ( Ang. ) Sed Nutum , O REGINA, Marem Regina peroptat, + The Princes Num ſpemn jam Regni + filia bina fovet. sis of Orange Dona, VIRGO, Marem . ( Virg.) Jam condunt and Denınark ilia Natum. Fulcrum erit Imperii Relligionis honos. (Ang ) Reginam exaudit REGINA MARIA Ma riam . Alleluia ! Ofælix, ter , quater, Alleluia ! Never were Verſes repeated with a more luſcious Tone, or with more Delight. The Jeſuits Com panion thought them ſo well pronounc'd , that he humbly begg'd him to repeat'em, though he knew them already by Heart : And this favour was preſently granted him . My ſmiling Coun tenance ſeemed alſo to applaud them , but my Silence did not pleaſe the Reverend Father. He fufpetied there was ſomething which I diſlik’d, and Vof. I. tö ITALY. 339 > and entreated me ſo earneſtly to tell him my Thoughts, that I could not poſſibly refuſe him . At firſt, I prais’d ſeveral Paſſages of them, as the fecundo fonte , fruitful Spring , which the Angel begg'd, and the Dat, petit amplexus,which ap pear'd to me very ſignificant. Yes, Taid he, the Manner of expreſſing the Thing , is not leſs ſweet and fine , than emphatical and Demon ſtrative ; for it denotes a mutual Fervency. I added, that ſince he permittedme to ſpeak free ly, I could not forbeár telling him , that the Be ginning of the ſeventh Verle offended me as much as that of the twelfth ſeemed excellent that the Uterus ( Womb) of which he ſpoke, did not in all probability want Cultivating ; that ſuch an Epithet was injurious to her Royal Spouſe ; and, in a Word , that I could by no means endure the Word Inculti, Untilled , which beſides did not well expreſs his Thought. At firſt he would have defended himſelf, but he ſub mitted at laſt ;, and it was concluded , that in ſtead of Inculti miſerere üteri, it ſhould hence forth be, o bumilem fpectes uterum , or ſomething to that purpoſe. I would have paſt over the Vale, but he confeſs’d, of his own accord , thao he it chere only to fill a Gap. He admired the Alleluja beyond meaſure, and imagin’d, he could never havemade a more happy Conclu fion . It is true , ſaid I, Alleluja is an Angelical Word, it is an Exclamation of Praiſe and Joy, which comes very ſeaſonably where youhave plac'd it : Buč you muſt remember, added I, that the three firſt Syllables of Alleluja are long, whereas you have made it a Dactylus ; for this. Amen red. Hebrew Word is written in Greek, 'Arsimia : He diğit: Alle excuſed himſelf for the Antepenultima, by cicing luja dixit;,

• Prudentius, who had made it ſhort , notwith which is a Phaleucians Aanding the Greek ", which ſignified little, theVerſe Z 2 Word

put 340 ' A New Voyage Vol. I. Word being Hebrew ; and confeſſed the Penut tima was naturally long. But he concluded, that the Beauty of a Thought might excufe the neglecting of ſuch Niceties of Quantity ; and reſolved at any rate to keephis Alleluja. We had already alter'd our Diſcourſe, when the young Brother deſired Leave to Criticize the Natum of the fifteenth Verſe. He ſaid , the Son was not yet born, and therefore ought not to be called Natum ; And that he could not think it poſſible, the Nameof Natus or Filius ſhould be given to an Embryo of haif a Minute, or rather to the informed Matter of a Fætus. But the Father Poet laugh'd at his Reflection , and told him, that the Word of the moſt Holy Lady was a ſure Word ; that Born or to be Born , Natus Filius , or Mas fignified the ſame thing on this Occaſion ; that it was properly a Queſtion of the Gender, and that we may ſpeak of Things that will in fallibly happen, as of thoſe that are already in Being. The young Man had another Objection to make againſt Natum marem , but he only muta ter'd a little, ſaying, there never was Natus fæ mina, for he was afraid of giving Offence : And thus ended our Conference. Theſe Verſes have ſomething ſo very Singular in the main, and in every Circumſtance of em , that I could not forbear ſending them to you. You judge well that there is no Concluſion to be drawn from the Fancies of this Poet, againſt prejudic'd Perſons, to whom there is no ſpeak. ing but with the greateſt Reſpect. Have a Care then of making an ill Uſe of what I ſend you : my Deſign being only to make you take notice oftwo Things. The Firſt is , The great Pains and Care that theſe Demetrius's take ; that per nicious Cabal of Seducers, and Publick Thieves, who upon all Occaſions extol and magnify the rare Vol. I. to ITALY 341 rare Vertues and divine Power of their great Diana , to the great Danger and Ruin of the poor People whom they cheat and ſeduce. And Secondly , I was willing to thew you by this ſmall Sample, to what an Height the Impu dence of theſe * Impoſtors is grown ; being not * The Jeſuit content with taking rich Preſents of fuple and Martin del credulous People ; they laugh alſo , and make Rio gives an Account how Sport at ' em ; not excepting Crown'd Heads the Priests of themſelves. this Madona There is a great Number of Candleſticks with have been man Branches, and other Luminaries, all round the ny times bea . Houſe without, that is , round the Walls which ten by Evil. Spirits. See encloſe it . But one of the greateſt Rarities we Demonology obſerv'd , was the Proceſſions of thoſe who ſur- of F. Per round this Houſe on their Knees. Some com. reaud. Ch. 1 . paſs it five Times, others ſeven ,and ſome twelve, according to the Myſtery they ſearch in the Number . Imagine you ſee forty or fifty Per ſons, or more ; Men ,Women and little Children, all creeping on their Knees , and turning one Way ; and a like Number meeting them , as they go to the other Side. Every one is furniſh'd with Beads, and mumbles his Pater -nofter's, and Ave Maria's. In the mean time they all ſtrive to creep next the Wall, both to ſhorten their Way, and to be neareſt to the Holy Place; which makes them frequently juſtle each other, and cauſes no ſmall Confuſion. This is never done, but when there is but little Company there. The great Reſort of Pilgrims is at Eaſter, and about the Feſtival ofthe Virgin's Nativity ,which they ſolemnize in the Month of September ; at which Times they are obliged to take other Meaſures. I dare hardly venture to tell you a Thing, which may ſeemn incredible ; but it is reported for a certain Truth ; which is, That in the Years of the greateſt Concourſe , they Z havę 1 ز z 342 A New Voyage Vol. Í1. a > have ſeveral times counted two hundred thou fand Pilgrims and upwards , during theſe two Feſtivals. One can ſcarcely imagine a pleaſanter Sight, than the Caravans of He and She Pilgrims,when they come together, as Bodies of Confraterni ties : Many Societies of Bologna, for Example , join together to go on Pilgrimage in Company. Saccola. Each Society have their * Frocks of ordinary Linnen -Cloch ,with a Cowl of the fame Linnen, made like a Strainer for Hippocras, which quite covers their Heads, and leaves only three Holes for their Eyes and Mouth. There are Frater nities of all Colours : They forget not their large Chaplets of Beads, Girdles,PilgrimsStaves, and the Arms of the Society , which are paint ed, or embroidered, before and behind , on the Back and Breaſt of every Brother. Theſe Pil grims, thus equipped , ride upon Aſſes, which are reputed tohave ſome Smack of Sanctity , by reaſon of their frequent Journeys to the S. Caſa. They ſeldom fall, and when they happen to do fo , they ſay 'tis without Danger to the Pilgrim So much for the Men. ' The Womens Habits are as rich as poflible they can procure: They faſten to the Body of their Gowns, a little Pil † Some are of grim'sStaff, about the Length of one's Hand t. Gold, Silver, À Staff which gives Occaſion for many pretty Ebony , fuory, with artificialThoughts, and ſerves for Diverſion to the Com Flowers : and pany on the Way: Theſe Societies of Ladies many are en. ride in Cálaſhes, furrounded with whole Squa rick'd with drons’of Aſs - Troopers. Is it not pleasant to ſee Pearls , Precio theſe:Morrice Daricers thus mounted and dreſſed, or Stones, &c .make an hundred Rounds, and Antick Poftures, accompanied with merry Ballads to divert the Lady Pilgrims ? Let not this Liberty of the Women ſurprize you. The Presence of Devo tion to our moſt Holy Lady, is a Reaſon fuffi cient Vol. I. to0 ITALY 343 . cient to releaſe them from their uſual Priſons : And beſides , I doubt not but every one hath a Brother, or ſome other Spy not far from her. I cou'd entertain you with a great many Remarks upon the Church of Loretto, if I were not afraid of cloying you with ſuch Stories : Only youmuſt know, that all the Riches in the S.Caſa are but of ſmall Value, in compariſon of what we ſaw in the Treaſury- Chamber. This Chamber is a ſpa cious Place : Seventeen large Preſſes with folding Doors, ſerve as Wainſcor to the Walls; and the vaulted Roof is gilded in Compartments, adorn'd with the fineſt Paintings. † The Silver-work is not thought worthy of Admittance into + They alledge the Preſſes, as it was allow'd at firſt: but at preſent it is con - 2 Chron .ix. fuſedly heap'd up in other Places, till they are pleas'd to ſell 20. it. The Preſſes then are filled only with pure Gold, remark able Jewels , or Vefſels, and Ornaments more precious than Gold * : I will not atrempe a Relation of the Particulars, for Among theſe they exceed Imagination it ſelf. To comprehend how thereGetJewels a hightheyso vart Riches were thus amaſs’d, you need only remember, teem on a that all the People, Princes, and States , who acknowledge Pearl wronglat the Supremacy of the Pope, have continually , for theſe four Shion herited of a hundred Years, been bringing them thither, and ſtriving to Gondola our- doeach other : Vanity, and often Politicks it ſelf,bring upon which is asmuch or more Riches to this Shrine as Superſtition. When haturallythe Figure of our a Prince has a Mind to have a Miracle perform'd , and dare Lady. Says B. nor do it himſelf , he is not diſpleas'd to make uſe of ſuch an Operator as our Noftredame, to take away all Occaſion of bave ſeen it, murmuring from the People. You muſt alſo conſider, that "iis but a Trin this Treaſure is but a ſmall part of the Preſents they have fle , tho' pero receiv'd . They have built a very fine Church, and a mag, come Artifice haps is nificent Palace. They have ſettled Revenues, and purchas'd'in it. Landsout of fight; and it is not to be doubred, but they have Cheſts full of Money . This is norali; the Bcxes fura niſh them with prodigious Sums, and one of the Secrets they make uſe of, to ftir up the Devotees to fill them , deſerves to be taken notice of. They diſtribuce a printed Paper, by which they endeavour to perſwade the People, that the Holy Houſe The Crown,or has no more than ſeven and twenty thouland Crowns of Re- Piaftro, is venue ; and by another Computation which they annex to Five Shiüings the former, they thew, that they are oblig'd to disburſe Thir- SixpenseEng ty eight thouſand fix hundred and thirty four Crowns,to pay linh Money, the Officers Salaries,and other Annual Expences. Thus there remain above Eleven thouſand Crowns , which , according to this pretended Account they fall ſhort every Year. This tur niſhes 'em with an excellent Opportunity to make pacherick Repre, and indeed worth near 24 344 New Voyage Vol. I. Selim hss Ne Repreſentations of their Poverty, and to move the Compal fion of devout Pilgrims, in favour of our good Lady, who, they ſay, loves nothing more than the Vertue ofLiberality . After we had ſeen the Treaſury , they carried us to the Arſenal, which is not conſiderable. There they ſhew'd us fome Arms taken from the Inndels ; and relate , that theſe Mahomet II .Barbarians having made a Deſcent to plunder the Treaſury, and after him about a hundred and fifty Years ago, our Lady ſtruck them phew . all blind as they weregoing to enter into it ; atwhich time they ſeized on Part of their Arms. From the Windows of this Arſenal, you behold a Part of the Sea , over which, in the Air, they ſay, the Houſewas brought. They add, that ever ſince, there is a certain White Way on the Water ; and our Jeluit proteſted to us with the higheſt Afleveracions that he had often obſerv'd it . Yeſterday when we came hither, the Rabble flocked about us , and told us, That we muſt make hafte to confeſs and communicate ; without which, thoſe who ſhould dare to enter into the Holy Houſe, would be ſhaken even to the Marrow in their Bones, and be in Danger of ſudden Death. There muſt be as well Impu dence on one side, in this Buſineſs, as there is Prejudice and Stupidity on the other. After we had vifired fome Apartments in the Palace, they brought us to the Cellar, where we found one hundred and forty great Tuns, full of good Wine. And from thence we went to the place where the Druggs are kept ; where they thew'd us three hundred and forty five Veſſels of Ear then -Ware, which they ſaid were painted by Raphael, and are infinitely eſteemed .' On five of The Largeſt, are St. Paul, and the four Evangeliſts ; and on the reit, Sacred Hiſtories, the Metamorphoſes of Ovid, and Plays of Children. Loretto is a little Place , but incompaſs'd with good Walls , and ſomewhat fortify'd with round Baſtions near the Gate : for, I think there is but one. It has the Title of a Ciry and Biſhoprick . There is in the publick Place, 2 very beautiful Fountain of Marble, enrich'd with Sta tues of Braſs. There is alſo a Statue of Sixtus V, in the fame Place, which the Inhabitants of Loretto erected in AC knowledgment of the Privileges they had receiv'd from him . The principal Trade of this little Ciry , confifts in Medals, Roſaries, ſanctified Beads, Images , Agnus Dei's, Meaſures of the Height of the Sacred Image, and ſuch - like Stuff; beſides the Favours of the Madona , which are to be ſold to the firft coming ; or, if you will, to be truck'd with Gold, or Silver, or precious Stones. We Vol. I. to ITALY. 345 Beads We ſaw ſome * Chaplets whoſe Beads were * Chaplets of likeGooſe Eggs ; theſe are for the Days of great investeering Devotion. You muſt know, moreover , that Urban II, es by there is no Perfon there, who affirms not him- the End of the elf to be deſcended from the Race of one who XIch Century. ſaw the Arrival of the Holy Houſe. All of them have heard their Grandfathers relate, that they have it from their Anceſtors; as thoſe who live now will not fail to tranſmit the fame Story .o their Children, and their Childrens Children. And muſt not one be very incredulous that re fuſes to believe ſuch a Tradition. Pope Clement VIII, caus’d an Inſcription to be fix'd upon one of the Faces of the Santa Caſa, which contains an Abſtract of this extra ordinary Hiſtory. And I ſhall add that Infcri ption here, ſo much the more willingly , as it will ſerve me to make good all the Incredible Things, I have been juſt now relating to you. What I call Incredible, is not the Hiſtory , or Fable only, of this little Houſe, with its Cir . cumſtances; but ' tis the Boldneſs ( to expreſs my ſelf with Moderation ) and the Tricks ofall thoſe Impoſtors, that with Impunity mock and laugh at God and Man ; and find ſo many cre dulous poor Souls to believe ' em. 9 CHRISTIANE HOSPES ! Qui Pietatis , Votique cause, buc advenifti ; Sacram Lauretanam Adem vides, Divinis Myſteriis, dw Miraculorum Gloria Toto Orbe Terrarum Venerabilem . Hic, Sanctiſſima Dei Genitrix Maria In lucem edita. Hîc, ab Angelo ſalutata , Hic, Æterni Dei Verbum Caro factum e Hinca 340 A New Voyage Vol. 1

• Others,1293 &

sader Bonif. VIII. Hanc, Angeli primùm, a Palæſtina ad Ilyricum d Adduxere ad Terſa&tum Oppidum A.S. 1291 Nicolao Quarto Summo Pontifice. Poſtea, Initio Pontificatûs Bonifacii VIII, In Picenum tranſlata prope Recinetam Urbem ; In cujus Collis Nemore Eadem Angeloruń opera collocata ; Ubi, loco intra Anni Spatium ter commutato, Hic, poftremò, Sedem Divinitus fixit Anno abhinc CCC. Ex eo tempore, tam Stupende rej novilate Vicinis Populis ad admirationem commotis, Tum, deinceps, Miraculorum famâ Longè, latêque propagatâ, Sancta hæc Domus Magnam apud omnes Gentes Venerationem habuit. Cujus parietes nullis fundamentis fubnixi Polt tot Sæculorum Ærates integri, Stabileſque permanent. Clemens VIII, Pontifex Maximus In hoc marmoreo Lapide inſcribi juflit ; Anno Domini M. D. XCV. I am, Loretto , Feb. 26. 1688. SIR, Your, &c.

• • • Quid non MONACHALIA Pectora cogis,

AURI Sacra Fames ! Virg. Æn. L. 3 . But, Presbyters which feed the Flock for filthy Lucre ; and as being Lords over God's Heritag High -minded ; that will be cald Rabbi, Rabbi : Vuin - Talkers : Not apt to teach : Blind Guide Given to Wine : Incontinent : Slow Bellies : Evil- Beaſts , &c . From ſuch Monks thin aw. with any Frock, of Garment they be, in all the Corners of the World. ( Ezek . 34. Mach. 2 2 Tim . 2. Tit. I. 1 Pet. s . 2 , 2 ) 3 Tim . 3 • The End of the firſt part of the firſt Volume. BOL В 1 1 1111 1 1 1 - PRESERVATION_SERVICE - SHELFMARK.98 !: a . 18 THIS BOOK HAS BEEN MICROFILMED I 1987 MICROFILM NO Mic . C 7971 + RI . 1989