From The Art and Popular Culture Encyclopedia
"An important transitional figure from the idiosyncratic style of the Grand Tour travelogues to the more informative and impersonal guidebook was Mariana Starke. Her 1824 book Information and Directions for Travellers on the Continent served as an essential companion for British travelers to the Continent in the early 19th century. She recognized that with the growing numbers of Britons traveling abroad after 1815 the majority of her readers would now be in family groups and on a budget. She therefore included for the first time a wealth of advice on luggage, obtaining passports, the precise cost of food and accommodation in each city and even advice on the care of invalid family members. She also devised a system of !!! exclamation mark ratings, a forerunner of today's star ratings. Her books, published by John Murray, served as a template for later guides." --Sholem Stein
"Montpellier — This Town, anciently called Agathopolis and supposed to contain 33,000 inhabitants, has long been famed for its climate; which, though unfavourable to weak lungs, is in other respects salubrious. Rain seldom falls here: snow and fogs are equally uncommon; but the marin or sea-wind, produces damp: and the vent de bise which continually visits Montpellier, is of all winds the most piercing. The principal Hotels are Le Cheval blanc, l'Hotel du Midi, Le petit Paris and Le Palais Royal: but persons who purpose to reside any length of time at Montpellier should hire a ready-furnished apartment, and have their dinner from a Traiteur, Here are a Theatre, an Aqueduct, and several pleasant Promenades. Montpellier and Grasse are famous for the best perfumes in France. The Mason-Spider is an extraordinary insect, which Naturalists report to be found only near Montpellier." --Information and Directions for Travellers on the Continent by Mariana Starke
"The national dish in Germany consists of small chickens fried very dry; being first cut into pieces, as for a fricassee." --Information and Directions for Travellers on the Continent by Mariana Starke
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Information and Directions for Travellers on the Continent (1824) is a guide book by Mariana Starke. It was expanded and republished as Travels in Europe for the use of Travellers on the Continent and likewise in the Island of Sicily, to which is added an account of the Remains of Ancient Italy in 1832.
Full text (shortened)[1]
INFORMATION
AKD
DIRECTIONS
FOft
TRAVELLERS ON THE CONTINENT.
f-
■
BY
MARIANA STARKE.
SIXTH EDITION,
THOROUGHLY REVISED AND CORRECTED.
wiTir
CONSIDERABLE ADDITIONS,
MADS DUB.I«a A AECKHT XXPSNSXVK JOURNKY TTNDCRTAKXN BT THE AtTTHOS,
WITH ▲ VIKW TO BENDER THIS WOBK AS PEBVXCT AS POSSIBLE.
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET.
MDCCCXXVIII.
-LONDON:
PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES,
Stamford'Street.
R n ri j j I o n
28,APR.191o
I OXFORD
J
ADVERTISEMENT.
I
Thb chief object of the following Work is to comprise, within the
compass of One Portable Volume, all the information necessary
for Travellers on the Continent of Europe, and the Island of Sicily.
To accomplish this purpose it was requisite to examine with
exactness, and give a detail, calculated to be read upon the spot,
of the ancient edifices, principal museums, and galleries, public
and private, in the above-mentioned countries. It was also requi-
site to copy all the most frequented routes from the post-books
lately published by Royal authority; and this has been the
Author's employment during the last three years.
The favourable reception given to the fifth Edition of her " In-
formation and Directions for Travellers on the Continent," leads
her to hope that the ensuing pages may, in some degree, answer
the purpose for which they were written ; and exonerate Travellers
from the necessity of encumbering themselves, in eveiy metropolis
of the Continent, with books publbhed to serve as Guides. At
Paris, Strangers are in the habit of purchasing the Post-book, the
List of Pictures in the Musce Royal, and the List of Sculptures in
the same Museum, added to GaJignanrs excellent Paris Guide,
and equally excellent Guide through France. At Florence Molini*s
accurate description of the Royal Gallery, and Gargiolli*s account
of the City, are usually purchased. At Rome Vasi*s Itinerary,
(two volumes) and the description of the Museum of the Capitol,
besides Nibby's Iiighly and justly estimated publications, are
deemed almost indispensable ; as are from ten to twelve Guides at
Naples, for the City and its Environs.
No complete printed description of the sculpture, frescos, and
oil-paintings in the Vatican, and private galleries at Rome, being
at the present moment attainable, the Author of the ensuing Work
has endeavoured to supply this deficiency : and a Guide for Sicily
being much ^vanted, she has given a concise historical account of
that Island, and its antiquities, added to Information and Direc-
tions for Travellers who may intend going thither.
Exmouth, September t 1827.
ERRATA*
Fag«.
Line. 1
Colmmi.
3
8
•
1.
For posU read post
10
1
i.
for AgrippM read A^ppa.
10
48
i.
for S46 read 945.
10
49
i.
for S45 read 846.
11
SO
1.
for Ctmlas read Ctesilans.
15
13
i.
for S. Sanl read S. Panl.
15
41
i.
after the word «• Paol'* insert 889.
15
45
iu
for Cayp read Cayp*
16
54
•
1.
for 794 read 734.
86
9
il.
for Pogyrt read Pogglo.
89
S9
U.
for with read was.
89
33
ii.
for was read with.
181
S9
• •
11.
for SeptemotV read Septemviri.
S88
80
i.
for y read by.
488
47
ii.
for grood read good.
607
38
ii.
this Paragraph, by mistake placed in the Text, was
meant as a Note.
580
Note
forWver« read Drivers.
TO THE BINDER.
Place the Engraving of the Forum Romanum between pages 134 and 135,
TRAVELS IN EUROPE.
Chaj?tkr I. . ^\^^'y "^ *
■■* .'
PRANCE.
'^•'ft^^
Hotels and Roads on the Continent considerably improTed— Swiss Voiturbs not to be trusted—
Modes of travelling from Great Britain to Italf— Best Road to Paris— Calais— Abey of
S. Denis— Paris— Most prominent improvements there — Mas^e Royal des Arts— Musie da
Luxembourg— Eoole Royale des Beaux Arts— Public Libraries— Mus^ d'Histoire Natu-
relle,et Jardin des Plantes — Academic Royale de Musique, and other Theatres — Manufac-
ture Royale des Olaces — Manufacture Royale des Tapisseries aax Gobelins — Colonne de la
Place Venddme— Arc de Triomphe de I'Etoile— Porte S. Denis— Porte S. Martin— Tri-
bunal du Corps-L%islatif— Cathedral e de NAtre-Dame— Pantheon— Oarde-meoble—Hfttel
Royal des Invalides— Institotion Royale des Sourds-Muets— Hospice de la SalpAtriire—
Hdpital des Enfans Trouv^s—Observatoire— Palais de la Bourse— Greniers de Reserve —
Abattoirs— Halle au Bl<<— Halle aux Vins— March^ \ la VolaiUe et an Oibier— Bridges-
Fountains— Statue of Louis XIV.— Burial place*— S. Cloud— Sfevres— Versailles— Present
state of Society at Paris.
Thb following Work contains a nished Lodgings, Provisions, &c. ;
faithful description of the Antiqui- together with a short comparative
ties, ancient Customs, and Man- view of Family-expenses in va-
ners of Italy, Magna Graecia, and rious Cities of Europe : so that
Sicily ; together with an account persons led, by motives of oecono-
of ail the principal Towns and my, to reside on the Continent,
Post-roads in the most frequented may not experience the disappoint-
parts of the European Continent ; ment of finding their plans de-
(several of which Roads are only feated by imposition,
just finished ;) correct Catalogues ■ Accommodations for Travellers
of the most valuable specimens of during the last twenty years have
Architecture, Painting, and Sculp- been materially increased in France,
ture, in France, Italy, Magna Switzerland, Italy, and Germany,
Grsecia, Sicily, and Germany ; by the augmentation and improve-
with the opinions of Nardini, ment of Hotels ; by the erection
Venuti, Winckelmann, and Vis- of fine Bridges, which are almost
conti, on some of the most cele- universally substituted for incon-
brated Works of Art. It likewise venient and dangerous ferry-boats ;
contains an account (deduced from by the sums bestowed to make
very long experience) of the Cli- rough and mountainous roads
mates of southern Europe ; the smooth and level ; and by the
expenses attendant upon various consummate skill exerted to ren-
modes of travelling ; the distances der those Alps, which were only
from post to post on every Great practicable by means of mules.
Road, according to the post-books traineaux, and chaises-d.-porteur,
last published by Royal authority ; so easy of ascent, that Post-horses,
the average price of ready-fur- attached even to a heavy Berlin,
(a) These Catalogues have been made re- public or private, the situation of Statues and
eently, and with the utmost care : but it should Pictures is liable to be changed,
be recollect^ that in every Gallery, whether
2 MODES OF TRAVELLING. [Ch. I
now traverse them speedily and streets of every considerable Town
safely. With such judgement, are tolerably well lighted ; the stop
indeed, have the sinuosities of put thereby to the dreadful prac-
Alpine Roads been managed, that tice of assassination, and the dis-
crane-neck carriages, once abso- missal of fear with respect to
lutely requisite in passing the Alps Banditti ; who, even between Rome
and Apennine, are at present and Naples, are now unheard of;
needless ; and even a drag-chain insomuch that the guard-houses
is seldom required. Several Ho- have been lately abandoned, and
tels in France are much improved, their doors walled up. But al-
by having Restaurants attached though the comfort of travelling
to them ; as this circumstance is thus considerably augmented,
never fails to ensure a good cook, the expense of residing on the
and a well-provided larder. New Continent is augmented likewise ;
Post-roads, likewise, have been owing to taxes in capital cities ;
recently constructed ; particularly and still more to the great influx
in Switzerland, and the Sardinian of British Travellers : nevertheless,
and Lucchese [territories ; and the as this no where affects the neces-
most frequented Post-roads of saries of life, except at Paris, it is
Germany are now (1827), gene- possible, nay easy, for persons who
rally speaking, good ; and the re- understand and practise oeconomy,
gulations with respect to Post- to live with comfort either m
horses calculated to give satisfac- France, Italy, or Magna Gnecia,
tion to -Travellers. The increase without incurring a much greater
of Post-roads in Switzerland has, expense than would have been
however, produced one inconve- needful twenty years ago.
nience, — that of rendering Swiss With respect to modes of tra-
Voiturins less trustworthy than veiling from Great Britain to Italy,
they used to be : indeed, seve- that considered as the least fa^
ral serious accidents have lately tiguing, and the best calculated to
occiured to English carriages, benefit consumptive persons, is to
owing to vicious horses and un- go by sea, in a vessel bound for
skilful drivers, employed by Emery, Leghorn; thence proceeding up
of Lausanne, and his Colleagues, the Canal to Pisa: or to go by
Sicily, likewise, though, as yet, sea to Bordeaux ; thence proceei
unprovided with Post-roads, may ing by the Royal Canal of Lan-
be visited without difficulty in a guedoc to Marseille, where vessels
Steam- Packet recently established bound for Leghorn may be heard
to run between Naples and Pa- of daily.
lermo, from the middle of Spring Persons in health, wishing to
till the middle of Autumn; and in travel oeconomically on the Con-
the large cities of Sicily there are tinent, might find their purpose
tolerably good Hotels. answered either by going in the
Other circumstances which con- carriage of a Voiturin, containing
tribute to the comfort of travelling from four to six passengers ; or
at the present moment, on the in a public Diligence, or Coche
Continent, are the increase of deau. But persons blessed with
ready-furnished Lodgings in large health and affluence should always
Cities ; the improvement in me- travel in their own carriage ; tak-
chanics, and consequently in fiu:- ing care that it be strong ; and
niture, throughout Italy and the going post, when the roads are
kingdom of Naples ; the intro- good, through France, Switzerland,
duction of lamps, by which the Germany, and the whole of north-
Ch. L] ROADS, &o. «
cfti Europe ; but travellmg en however, is by far the safest and
voiturier over the Alps, and Apcn- most sheltered of all the Alpine
nine, and likewise in all parts of Roads : and when attention is paid
Italy and Magna Ghrfleoia ; for, to remore, after eyery shower, the
owing to the peeuhar exeellenoe of snow from the Gallery leading to
the roads in these countries, the the Olacier Grotto, (so called be-
Postilions of the Posts are apt to cause near a small Glacier,) and
driye with dangerous rapidity; and likewise from the Glacier itself,
it is therefore preferatue, because as was done during the reign of
safer, to traTel with horses be- Napoleon, there can be no risk
loi^in^ to the best - established in passing the Simplon at any
Voitunns of northern Italy, Ho- season ; neither is the eold on this
renee, or Rome ; who usus^y un- gijs^tie Alp intense, even during
dertake to convey Ki^lish earri- winter. Another Road, lately con-
agjes from forty to mfty geographical stmcted and leading firom eastern
miles a day, at the rati of bebreen Switzerland to Mikm, passes over
four and ^ye miles an hour. the Mont-S|dugen to Chiavenna
The most frequented, and one of and Bellinzone : but this new Pas-
the shortest Post-roads from Ca- sage of Splugen is daneerous, ex«
lais to Rome, is through Beauvais, oept during the months of July,
Paris, Lycm, and over the Mont- August, and September ; and at
Cenis to Turin, Genoa, Lucca, Pi- all seasons better calculated for
sa, Pdggibonsi, and Siena. Ano- lig^t open carriages than for those
th^ very good Road to southern of any other description. A Car-
Italy leads from Tinin through riage-road, leadi^ from Nice
Bologna to Florence : but, l^- through Genoa to Pisa, has like-
tween the two last-named Cities, wise been recently opened, well
is a Passage of the Apennme so provided with Post- iKM-ses, and
peculiarly exposed to gusts of furnished with tolerable Inns. It
wind, from the Adriatic and Me- is longer by an hundred and twenty
diterranean sea, that Invalids sel- miles than the Road from Lyon
dom pursue this Route with im- over the Mont- Cenis to Grenoa;
punity. The shortest the most but it avoids all the Alps : and
mteresting, and the best summer Travellers who wish to trace the
and autumn Road is that which revival of the Arts from the period
5 asses through Dijon, over the when Oreco-Araba architecture
ura-Alps, and the Simpldn, to was introduced by the Crusaders
Milan^ and through several other at Pisa, should make that Town
Towns of northern Italy to Rome, their first resting-place in Italy,
But the Dijon -road is seldom and proceed afterwards to Flo«
good till after a series of dry wea- rence and Rome.
9ier; and the Jura-road is dan- Pisa may with troth be called
gerous unless drivers be skilfrd ihe Cradle of the Arts; for Bu-
and attentive ; for the ascents and scheto, a Greek, so early as the
descents are rapid, and not suffix eleventh century, erected its Ca-
ciently guarded by parapet walls : thedral : Diotisalvi, during the
added to which the Stops on these twelfth centuiy, built the Bap-
hills are made in a slanting direc- tistery ; and Guglielmo, a Ger-
tion; and -therefore liable, if dri- man, aided by Bonnano, Pisano,
vers be careless or ignorant, to began^ the Campanile about the
throw carriages down ttie precipice year 1174. Niceolo, Pisano, his
on the brink of which the road son, Giovanni, and Andrea, Pisa-
lies, The Passage of the Simplon, no, revived the Art of Sculpture
4 CALAIS— ABBEVILLE— BEAUVAIS- [Ch. 1.
in the thirteenth century ; and not try**. Near Boulogne, however, is
only embeUished the buildings al- a magnificent Column of marble ;
ready erected, but likewise added which the army, destined by Na-
another, still more beautiful, the poleon to invade England, began
celebrated Campo Santo. In the to raise ; and which has recently
beginning of the tiiirteenth century been finished, to commemorate
Giunto, Pisano, revived the Art of the restoration of the House of
Painting, and was succeeded by Bourbon.
Giotto and Cimabue. Those per- Boulogne, su|>posed to occupy
sons, therefore, who contemplate the site of the ancient Ge^^oriacum,
the productions of the Oreco-Ara- is a handsome Town, pleasantly
ba-Pisano School, as the earliest situated ; and contains thirteen
efforts of the reviving Arts, can- thousand inhabitants, besides Eng-
not fail to be highly gratified ; lish visiters ; who, in time of
especially if they afterwards pro- peace, are very numerous *. The
ceed to Florence and Rome ; and coimtiy between this Town and
trace the gradual progress of these the strong Fortress of Montreuil *
Arts te thlBLt state of maturity presents nothing worth notice;
which the parental care of the but, beyond the latter, is the
Medicean Princes enabled them to Forest of Crecy, memorable for the
attain. victory gained there, by Edward,
For the generality of English the Black Prince.
Travellers, the most convenient Abbeville, the next large Town,
way of visiting the Continent is to is seated on the river Somme ; and
go from London to Calais in a contains about twenty thousand
Steam-Packet; and, after rest- inhabitents*: and beyond Abbe-
ing one night at Calais, (where ville is a Mound, commanding
Roberts's Hotel is particularly the adjacent country, and deno-
comfortable,) to proceed through minated Caesar's Camp ; the in-
Beauvais to Pans; a smoother trenchments belonging to which
road, less hilly, and shorter, by are well preserved; and Roman:
two posts, than that through medals, with other antiquities,
Amiens : but it should be taken have been discovered on this spot,
into consideration, that persons Further still is GranviUierss »
who go by way of Beauvais lose small Town ; whence the road
the pleasure of seeing the cele- proceeds, through the picturesque
brated Nave of the Cathedral village of Marseille sur TOise, to
at Amiens ; and frequently expe- Beauvais « , seated on the The-
rience inconvenience from finding rain ; and celebrated on account
only one tolerable Hotel at Gran- of the siege it sustained in 1472 ;
villiers. when Jeanne Hachette headed the
Calais, anciently Partus Icdus, women of the town, and de-
is a well-built Town, containing fended it against an army of
above eight thousand inhabitants, eighty thousand men, led by the
but no objects of interest : and the Duke of Burgundy, whom she
road hence to Boulogne passes compelled to abandon his enter-
through a bleak and barren coun- prise ; and, in honour of this he-
(6) Mr. Roberta, who keeps the Hdtel Royal (i) Inns, Hotel de France^Hdtel de ikm-
at Calais, is a Wine Merchant ; and his wines dret.
are particularly eood. (e) The best Inns at Abbeville arc, 2%r
(c) The best Hotels at Boulogne are, L'Ho- Tete de Bceuf; The Hotel d'Angleterre ; awA
tel Foube QAncien Hotel d'Angleterre)^ for- TT^e Hotel d' Europe.
merly kept by Mrs. Parker — i///<Jte/ det (f ) Ina^ The Hotel d'Angleterre.
Bains — and L'H6tel de Londres. (o) The best Inns at Beaavais arev L^Hftoi
d'Angletirret and VEc% de France,.
Ch. I.] S. DENIS. 5
toiiie, there is, at Beanvais, a so- Capetian Dynasty. He likevvise
ilemn aimual procession, in which ordered prayers to be offered daily
the female sex take precedence, at these altars; and no change
Beauvais has about fourteen thou- seems to have been made in his
samd inhabitants. The Cathedral, plans, except that the bronze
though unfinished, merits notice ; doors with which he closed the
it contains a Monument by Cous- royal vaults, destined to receive
ton ; fine Painted Glass ; good spe- himself and his family, are removed,
cimens of the Tapestry for which and slabs of black marble substi-
Beauvais has long been famous ; tuted in their place; The Church
-and a Choir admired for its pro- is repaired with elegant simplicity ;
p(»iions. The Church of S. and contains, on the left, near
Etienne likewise contains fine the principal entrance, a sin^ar
Painted Glass ; and on the ex- Cenotaph, erected by S. Louis in
lerior part of the north wall is a honour of Dagobert ; a monument
Bagfo-rihevOf supposed to be very to the memory of Louis XII, and
axieient. Between Beauvais and Anne of Brittany ; another to the
Beaumont^, (a small Town, plear memory of Henry II, and Cathe-
isantly situated, on the left bank rine de' Medici; and another to
of the Oise,) the country is rich the memory of Francis I. This
in vineyards and com ; and from Church is also to be embellished
Beaumont the same scenery con- with a monument in honour of
tinues to S. Denis ; but, upon the Louis XVI, and Maria Antoin-
-whole, the country between Bou- ette, some parts of which are al-
logne and S. Denis is not pleas- ready completed ; and the statue
mg; though 'the road, in conse- of the unfortunate Queen partica-
quence of ite great breadth,straight- larly merits notice. The High-
ness, and thickly planted borders of altar was made by order of Napo-
trees, has an appearance of ^an- leon, for his marriage with Maria-
jdeur common to most of the high- Louisa ; and, after that event,
ways in Prance. E][^^ ^^ ^^^ present situation.
The Church of S. Denis, origin- The Sacristy is ornamented with
ally belonging to an ancient Abbey good Paintmgs ; one of which
of Benedictine Monks, contains originally represented the Empe-
the Burial-place of the French ror giving directions for the re-
Monarchs. During the Revolution stitution of the Church ; but his
this splendid Abbey was robbed of figure is now expunged, and that
its treasures ; its Church was un- of Louis XVIII introduced in its
roofed, its altars were levelled with stead. Strangers who enquire at
the dust, and its Royal Dead dis- the Sacristy-door for one of the
interred, and thrown into uncon- Swiss guards, are conducted by
secrated sepulchres: but Napoleon him into the royal Burial-place;
having determined to restore the where Napoleon's classic taste
Church to its pristine use and has supplied the tombs destroyed
splendour, repaired and improved by republican frenzy ; thus ren-
the royal vaiits ; securing them dering the three dynasties com-
with gates of bronze ; and at the plete, twelve princes excepted,
same time re-estabhshing the sub- The Abbey of S. Denis, properly
terranean Chapels, where he erect- so called, is now converted into
ed three Expiatory Altars ; one Barracks ; and the conventual
dedicated to the Race of Clovis, buildings formerly appropriated to
another to that of Charlemagne, Carmehte Nuns, now belong to
and a third to the princes of the the Establishment instituted by
(*) Best Inns, Lc Paoth and Le grand Cerf>
6 PARIS. [Ch. I.
Napoleon for the gratuitous edu- noble Qaa^ of the Seine, and the
cation of the Daughters of those elegant Bridges thrown over that
members of the Legion of Ho- river, (which traverses Pans fipom
nour, who either fell in battle, or east to west,) it is inipossible not
were destitute of means to educate to think this Metropolis the Rival
their children. Between S. Denis of ancient Roma ; especially when
and Paris, (almost one continued we recollect that the spaeiouB
street,) the splendid dome of the and splendid apartments of the
II6td des Invalided, Mont-Martre ^ Louvre, though recently despoiled
Belleville, and S. Chaumont, are of many treasures, still boast
the most striking objects ; the one of the largest and finest Col-
second still bears marks of hav- lections in the world of Paintings
ing made a desperate stand against and Sculpture. At Paris, how-
the aUied armies of Europe, when «ver, grandeur is more common
they united to dethrone Napo- than eonsistenc^r ; for blended
k^n : and the two last were, with this ma^ificent panorama
bravely defended on the 29th of jure streets which, owing to their
March, 1814, b}^ the pupils of the narrowness, insignificance, and
Ecole Polytechnique, £ltii, would bedisgraeeM to any
Paris, once called Parim vel capital.
Zaitetia, is watered by the Seine, Among the most prominent im-
anciently Sequana ; aiid previous provements made, during the reign
to the detlironement of Louis of Napoleon, are, the noble Ou-
XVI, was supposed to contain lery constructed to unite the *Pala-
from seven to eight hundred oes of the Louvre and tlieTuileries;
thousand inhabitants; alter that the Triumphal Arch de VEtoile
period the number was consider- <not finished ;) the H6td du Min-
ably diminished ; but now it utere des relaii<m» extirieures;
amounts to near seven hundred the Exchange, (recently finished ;)
and fourteen thousand, ind^end^ the Establishment for the Orphans
ant of Foreigners and Troops. The of the Legion of Honour; the
improvements this city owes to Observatory ; the Temple ; the
Napoleon are innumerable : and Fountain of the Elephant on the
on entering the Place Vend5me, eate of the Bastile, unfinished, but
adorned with a fine imitation of worthy of the colossal Mind by
Trajan*s Column, on advandng to which it was prmected; the Gre^
the Garde-meuble, and the Palace »eV#£fei?^c«rre;thepubheSlaugh-
of the Tuilmes, viewing that su- ter-hoases, magnificent in size, lund
perb Edifice, its princely gardens; higUy beneficial to the Parisians ^ ;
and the magnificent facades of the Cupola of the Corn-market ;
the Louvre, (one of the most the general Magazine for wine;
beautiful specimens of modem the Poultry and Game Market; the
architecture,) then contemplating, great Market ; the Markets of S.
from the Pont Louis XVI« ' the Germain, S. Martin, &e. ; the Rue
Palais Bourbon, the Front of the de la Paix ; the Po9U du Jardm
Tribunal du Corps L^gislattf, the des Plantes; the Pont de la CiU;
Champs Elpsies, the stately Dome the Pont des Arts ; the Pont des
of the Uitel des Invalides, the Inoalides; the new Quays; the
(t) Th« qaarries of Montmartre supply Pa- araffers^ Vfiule filtkf alav^ter^lioiiflcs, in tha
ris with gypsum, commonly called plaster of centre of the Town, impregnated the almos-
Parie. fAiere with noxions effluvia : but, since tiie
(h) PreTious to the formation of tiiest Eatar eveetia* of public AbattoWi^ private tilaagK-
bliiikments in the Suburbs of Paris, Botchers ter-houaes have been suf^ressed. and Batchers
were allowed to drive oxen through the prohibited from driving cattle through the
streets: to the great annoyaac* of wot-pas* ytrsets.
Ch. I.] PARIS. f
FoiBxtam of tbe Espiaoade du water of the Seine; whkh, though
fioulevard de Bondi : and the al* perfeetly wholesome when clan-
ready mentioned Column in Uie ned, and not more expensive than
Place Venddme. the common water, was seldom
The IViumphal Arch, in the drunk with impunity in its natural
Place de Carousel, also ranks state.
among the embellishments of Pa- Paris appears to be as much
ris ; tibough devoid of that magni- improved in wealth as in magnifi-
tude and simplicity which distin- cence ; the shops are far more
guish the Roman edifice it was numerous, and &r better stocked,
meant to imitate. than in time past ; the manufacto-
But what especially charms the ries greatly aidvanced : the Hotels,
^es of strangers, in the fVench which amount to three hundi'ed.
Capital, is a beautiful Belt, called furnished with an elegance hereto*
the Boulevards, which encircles fore unknown; the coifee-houses
the town ; and consists of drives display the most expensive oma-
and walks, bordered with forest- ments; th^TMes oi Restaurateurs
trees ; and owing to an immense abound with luxuries ; and tlie
number of shops, and a pno&sion Ojpera-house exhibits a splendor,
of flowers, has a peculiar air of with regard to Stage-decorations,
gaiety during winter ; and pos- wbidi no other theatre in Europe
sesses, during summ^, a salubri- can boast.
ous coolness, rarely met with in a The following are a few parti-
large metropolis. Butthecircum- culars respecting the objects best
staaee of all others most con- worth observation at Pans,
ducive to the healthfulness of Mu9ie Boyal du Louvre ^ Thb
Paris, is the purification of the magnificent collection of Bculp-
(/) For the benefit of Trarellers restricted Phidias : and eyen when Scnlptnre had
a tioie, tboee piodnotJons generally <^faought reached her prime* sereral of the finest sta>
noet worthy of netiee, in the pablie and pri- tues of marble, instead oi being, each of them,
vate Galleries of the Contiaent, are marked cat out of one solid block, were made in se-
with owe or more admiration points, accord- parate pieces, and subsequently joined toge-
log to the routed merit of the work in ([ues- titer. This is exemplified in the celebrated
tion : and for the use of Travellers who may Niobe, and two of her Daughters; in the Al-
visit those Galleries, the following short ac- bani- Pallas ; in the Faustina found noar
count of the origin of the Arts of Scnlptore Ostia, among ruins supposed to be the remains
and Painting is Bubjoinod. of Pliny's Villa-Laurentioa ; and in the statues
Asia seems to have given birth to Sculp- lately excavated at Pompeii. Very ancient
tare ; but her pro^ss appears to have been statues were sometimes painted, and often
slow to all fionatriies: during her infancy, in drapd with real stuffs ; like several statues
her native soil, the heathen divinitieti were of the Madonna in modem Italy,
represented by nothing more than Square Painting, though the offspring of Sculp-
Stones. Greetaa Sculpture began in a simi- tore, was not brought into the worid till
lar manner: after which, Bacchus, and other after her parent had reached maturity : for
pagan gods, were worshipped under the form the Jupiter of Phidias, and the Juno of Poly-
of a Column. The next improvement con- eletes, M«/»-<f«e*wfi« of sculpture, existed b«-
sisted in placing the representation of Human fore the invention of painting. ApoUodorus,
Heads upon these Columns : Hermes was and his disciple, Zeuxis, who flour shed in the
worshipped under this form ; whence comes fifteenth Olympiad, were the first painters
the word, Herma. The most ancient repre- who distinguished themselves in the style
sentations of the human figure, at full length, called clair-obscur: and Euphranor, the con-
were of Potters' clay. Dadalus, however, temporary of Praxiteles, aud consequently
and, after him, Demophon, worked in wood : posterior to Zeuxis, is supposed to have en-
following artists worked in ivory ; and their riched the growing Art by the introduction of
successors made etatues of bronze : but, dur- symmetry, shading, antf perspective. But
ing the infancy of bronze Sculpture, the Painting made a much slower advance to-
component parts of statues were fastened ward perfection than Sculpture ; because the
together with nails: this is exwnplified by latter, from her birtli, became a necessary
six female figures, found in . Hercalaneum. appendage to heathen worship : whereas the
Bobsequeat to bronze, atone was used : and, former did not acquire the privilege of euter-
laat fli all, marhie : but, Sar a eonsiderable lag consecrated edifices, till after she had
period, the heads, hands, and feet only, of sta- reached her meridian. In .course ot time,
tues, were aarUe; the trunks being wood, however, some of the G'^^jian rempies oe.
This custom pceTftiled so late m tJie days of came Pinacothecae ; and at Rome me worlds
8 PARIS. [CLL
ture and Paintings is placed in the is curious, because it exhibits an-
Palace of the Louvre. Several cient Roman costume. — 34, bust
Rooms on the ground floor, prince- of Claudius. — 41, Basso-rtlievo
ly in size, and rich in decorations, found at Rome,^ and representing
being appropriated to the efforts a religious ceremony performed
of the chisel ; and a Suite of before the temple of Jupiter Capi-
splendid Apartments upstairs to tolinus ; of which the three doors
those of the pencil. Among the indicate the three naves conse-
Sculpturearethe choicest treasures crated to the three associated di-
of the Villa-Borghese, and many vinities, JUpiter, Minerva, and
other highly- valued works of art, Juno*. — 42, statue of Trajan',
which onee embellished Rome. HcUl of the Seasons. No. 46,
Some of the most admired pieces statue of Venus Genitrix! — 47,
of Sculpture are — bust of Oommodus. — 60, statue of
Vestibule, No. 1, colossal bust a wounded Combatant*. — 55, an
of a vanquished Province". — 5, Egyptian divinity, in oriental ala-
ditto of Domitian". — 6, ditto of baster»I — 69, bust of Venus *» I —
Alexander' Severus*'. — 7, statue of 65, statue of Euripides <* I — 73,
a Barbarian Prisoner?. — 9, colos- ditto of a N3niiph. — 74, statue of
sal bust of Lucius Verus. — 11, Bacchus*. — 75, a Sarcophagus,
statue of a Barbarian Prisoner ^.— representing the voyage of the
13, colossal bust of Jupiter Sera- Good to Elysium. — 76, Basso-ri-
pis. — 18, Vase adorned with bac- lievo of Mithras, (a Persian divi-
chanalian emblems ' ! nity,) the Genius of the sun, ac-
Arcade leading to the Hall of Complishing the mystic sacrifice of
the Emperors, No. 19, statue of the bull! Mithras was worshipped
Apollo, called Sauroctonon, or by the Romans, who erected altars
Lizard-killer ; supposed to be one to him ; and tMs basso-rilievo was
of the finest imitations extant of a found near the Forum Romanum.
bronze statue of Apollo, by Praxi- — 82, Basso-rilievo taken fi*om the
teles ■ I — 22, statue of the Genius Temple of Minerva at Athens ; it
of eternal sleep '. represents the Panathensea, and
Hall of the Roman Emperors, yras composed by Phidias, and ex-
No. 26, statue of Marcus Aure- ecuted under his orders* I
lius". — 26, a Barbarian Prison- Hall of Peace, No. 85, a Can-
er\ — 28, bust of Vespasian. — delabrum, taken from the Vatican
31, statue of Nero. — ^33, ditto of Museum. — 89, statue of Posido-
Trajan^. The Basso-rilievo on nius'! — 92, ditto of Demosthe-
the Pedestal of this statue repre- nes « I — 95, ditto of Trajan >*.
sents a husband and wife dimng. Hall of the Romans, No. 97,
and reposing on their couch ; and bust of Geta, very rare*. — 98,
of celebrated painters were exhibited in the (m) From the Villa-Borghese.
Temple of Peace : but it does not appear that (n) From the ViUa-Albani.
the pictures of heathen deities were ever wor- (o) From the Brascfai-Palaoe, at Rome.
shipped, like their statues ; and consequently Qp) Vil. Borg. (^ Ibid,
we have reason to suppose that Painting, m Ibid. (») Ibid.
not arrive, in ancient days, at the same height it is intended to convey.
of perfection with Sculpture. But, in modem (u) FromGabii. i o i uaou.
times, when the Arts awoke, after their long (to) ViL Alb. he) Vil. Borg.
sleep, duringr the dark ages, Paintingwas im- (y) Oabii. | fa;} ViL Alb.
mediately admitted, by the hand of Religion, (a) Vil. Boig. (6) Vil. Boiy.
into Chnrches, and conventual Establish- (c) Vil. Alb. (d) Vil. Borg.
ments ; and so much cherished there, as to (0) The Panathenasa were festivals in
become more eminent than in tiroes past ; honour of Minerva, the patroness of Athens.
while Sculpture, from meeting with lewer (/) Vil. Borg.
patrons, has never regained her ancient tran- (g) From the Moseo Fio-Clementino.
scendency. ^ (A) Vatican. (t) Osbii.
C11.I.JI PARIS. 9
Inopus, a fragment fouiid at De- rilievo of Hercules stealing the
los ^. — 1 00, staStue of Augustus \ — tripod of Delphos. — 170 *, bust of
101, bust of a Roman Warrior"*. Rome. — 171*, statue of Venus. —
— 1 02, statue of Rome. — 1 1 1 , ditto 1 7 6 , a Greek BcusO'Vilievo. — 1 76,
of Tiberius, found at Capri: dra- Ba8S(hriUevo representing the Su-
pery fine, head restored. — 1 13, sta- ovetaurilia, a sacrifice miule by the
tue of Augustus I — 115, bust of ancient Romans, which consisted
Faustina the elder **. — 116, colossal of the immolation of a sow, (ms^)
bust of Rome I* I — 118, statue of alamb,(ovt>,)and abull,Uaf«rtM,)
Julia, the consort of*Septimius Se- whence the name. It was usually
verus. — 120, group representing observed every fifth year. — 178,
Thetis, ^e,, and worthy notice, on Diana h la Biche!! so called be-
account of the ancient gallev on cause the goddess is represented
which the goddess is placed *>. — at the moment when she has res-
123, bust of LuciUa'. — 124, statue cued the celebrated Hind with
of Chastity. — 126, bust of Anti- golden horns from Hercules, and
nous, found near Frascati ! — 128, reprimanded him for molesting an
Metope, taken from the Parthenon, animal sacred to her. This b^au-
at Athens ! tiful work, found between Grenzano
HcM of the Ceniaur, No. 130, and Aricia, amidst the ruins of a
statue of a Roman, name unknown, temple consecrated to Diana, is of
132, herma of Alexander the Great, Panan marble, and stands upon a
found at Tivoli. — 134, group of the Pedestal ornamented with fine
Centaur ! ! ! This master-piece is hassi-rilievi : that part which re-
supposed, by the Chevalier Vis- presents three cities, personified by
conti, to have been executed in the three female figures wearing cre-
pollo. — 138, ditto of Marcus Aure- which serves as a pedestal to this
Uus*. — 140, ditto of Lucius Verus". group is in the Etruscan style. —
14 1 , statue of Grermanicus . — 142, 1 82, Basso-rilievo denominated the
ditto of Claudius . — 144, ditto of Conclamatifin ; a ceremony which
Achilles*. — 146, statues of Fauns ^ took place at the funerals of the
— 149, bust of Lucius Verus'.— ancient Romans, and consisted in
150, s^tue of Sextus Pompeius, calling the Departed loudly and
found nearTusculum, and executed repeatedly by name ; and likewise
by Ophelion, a Greek artist ! — 1 5 1 , endeavouring to rouse them by the
one of the lai^st and most beauti- noise of music, in order to ascer-
ful Candelabra of antiquity, found tain whether they were really dead,
in Magna Grsecia. — 186, group of Venus and Cupid,
. HaU of Diana, No. 154, statue suppos^ to be an imitation of the
of Bacchus. — 162, ditto of Mi- draped Venus of Praxiteles ! — 192,
nerva. — 164, bust of a Roman, statue of Minerva t This fine piece
name ui^known. — 165, group of of sculpture is supposed, by Vis-
three Nymphs suspending their conti, to be a copy of the bronze
wet garments on a column *. — 1 6 7, Minerva of Phidias, sumamed The
statue of Thalia ^^168, Basso- Beautifiil'L — 196, bust of Marcus
(*) Inopttfl» a xxTVt of Deloa, supposed, by ' f aj Vil. Borg. (a) ViL Borg.
the inhabitants, to be a branch of the Nile. (o) Gabii. {h) Ibid.
rO Vatican. (m) Vil, Borg. fw) Jl>id. fc) Ibid.
r») Mu. Pio-Clementino. (*) Vil. Borg. (a) Ibid.
To) Braschi-Palace. (r) Gabii. (y) Ibid. Ul Ibid,
r ») ViL Borg. (*) ViL Boig, (») Ibid.
- ») ViL Borg. ' (*) ViL Boig, (») Ibid. Cf ) 1^^-
tf)ViX.AIb* ^•'^'^•^
10
PARIS.
[Ch. I.
Agrippas «. — 1 97, stable of Ihe Lj*- at Rome on the sits of the temple
cian Apollo! — 1 99, statue of Diana, of Isis and SerapLs near the Via^
— 201, bust of Demosthenes, sup- Lata* 1 1 ! This line group, toge-
posed to be one of the best lito&- ther with that of the Nile, (in the
nesses extant of that philosc^her^. -Vatican Museum,) adorned two
— ^207, Fountain in the form of a fountains which embellished the
tripod, found among the ruins of avenue of the Temple. The Tiber
Adrian's Villa. is represented in a recumbent pos-
Hall of the Candelabrum, No. tore, resting his ri^t arm on an
208, a Candelabrum, which, if urn, near which reposes the wolf
found in its present state, would of Mars, with her nurslings, the
have ranked among the largest founda^s of Rome : the oar in his
and most beautiful ancient works left hand indicates that the river is
of its kind; but though the mate^ navigable. — 251, iour statues, call-
rials of which it is composed are ed Caryatides, which once adorned
antique, they were gut into their the Villa- Albani.,
present form by Piranesi. — 210, Arcade which leads to the Hall
bust of Venus * ! — 212, Basso-rilievo of the fighting Warrior. No. 258,
of Antiope reconciling her sons statue of Antinous. — 259, Basso^
Zethus and Amphion ^ — ^213, sta- rilievo, representing the birth of
tue of Diana *. — 214, an Altar con- Bacchus '. — ^26 0, Statue of Mars«
secrated to Diana- Lucifera, or Hall of the fighting Warrior.
the moon ™. — 215, bust of Isis. — No. 262, statue of a Warrior, called
tJl6, statue of a Dog, found at the Gladiator of the VillarB<Mrg-
Gabii! — 218, statue of Pollux". — hese!!!! He is represented sfi
220, Tripod of the Delphic Apollo, combating with an enemy on
found at Ostia ! — 224, statue of a horseback ; his left arm bears a
Wild-boar, being an antique copy shield, with which he is supposed
of the celebrated boar of Florences to parry the strokes of his oppo-
— ^229, Tripod, found at Gabii. — nent, whom, with the ri^ht hand,
230, statue of Marsyas I ! ! This is he is about to wound with all his
one of the Unest pieces of sculp- force. The attitude of the statue
ture extant ; and (like every other is admirably calculated for this
antique representation of Mar- double aetion; and every limb,
syas) supposed to be imitated frcmi every muscle, is thought to wear
a picture byZeuxis, which Pliny more precisely the appearance of
mentions as having graced the life, than any othi»* master^pieee
temple of Concord at Rome^ — of the Grecian chiseL The author
232, Basso-rilievo of Jupiter 4. of this transcendent and inimitable
Hall of the Tiber. No. 233, work was Agasias of Ephesus;
statue of ^sculapius ' ! — 234, sta- whose name is engraved on the
tue of Antinous in the character trunk which supports the figure ;
of Hercules, found near Tivoli. — Visconti supposes it to represent a
238 , Statue of Flora ". — ^24 1 , Chair Warrior, not a Gladiator : Winckel-
consecrated to Bacchus M — ^242, mann is of the same opinion; and
statue of Ceres ^ — 244, statue of a says, that the statue m question
Bacchante^. — 246, Chair conse- appears to have been executed be-
crated to Ceres! — 245, statue fore the period when gladiatorial
called the Diana of Gabii. — 249, shows were fu*st exhibited in
tiie Tiber, a colossal group found Greece. During the commence-
7) Gabii.
k) Vil. Alb.
Vil. Bom;.
(ft) Ibid.
(0 Ibid.
fro) Vil. BoTg.
>) Ibid.
Jo) Ibid.
>) Ibid.
(y)Ibid.
t
Vil. Alb. (s) Vil. Borg.
Mu. Pio-Clemratino.
Vil. BoTg. («) Ibid.
lii) Mu. Fio-Clementino.
Ch. I.] PARIS. 11
ment of the seventeenth oentmy, drapenr antiqae, «nd Tery fine*. —
Ms statue was discovered at An- The Muse of Memory, and the In-
tium, where the Roman emperors ventress of Harmony, seems sta*
had a Villa ; and where the Apollo tioned to watch over a Sarcopha«
of Belvedere was found about a gus, numbered 307, and called
century before >---263, statue of uiat of Homer; because the Fa-
Merciuy'. — 267, bust of Clodius ther of heroic Poetry is here re-
Albinus^. — ^269, bust of Marcus presented as conversing with Cal*
Aarelius-^ — ^270, a Sarcophagus liope, and indicatii^, by the two
r^resenting the death of Melea- fingers he holds up, that he com<*
^er*. — ^272, group of two Romans posed only two ^ic poons. R.
m the costume of Mars and Ve» guides of all the other Muses adorn
nus \ — 276, statue of Adrian! !— this Sarcophagus ; which was dis-
279, ditto of Cupid, in the cha- covered, at the commencement of
meter of Hercules'. — 281, statue the last century, near *Rome, on
of a wounded Amazon ! The up« the road to Ostia. — 310, a colossal
per part of this figure is said to be statue, called The Pallas of Velle*
an antique imitation of the wounded tri, because it was found near that
Amazon of Ctesilas ; but the sculp- town, in 1797 ! ! ! The goddess is
tor by whom it was restored, in represented as possessing the dig-
tiie sixteenth century, has deviated nified beauty which accords with
from the costume appropriate to wisdom; and, though armed with
female warriors.— 282, statue of her helmet, sgis, and lance, she
the Venus of Aries, so called, be- seems, from ihe mildness of her
cause found at Aries, in Provence ; countenance, to indicate that the
and supposed to be Venus victo- arts of peace are not less dear to
rious, me device of C^sar. — 284, her than the glory of war. This
statue of an Infant Mercury ^. — statue is of the finest Greek work-
287, statue of Lucius Caesar ^^ — manship; and the Pedestal on
290, group of a Faun and a Satyr : which it rests merits observation,
the pedestal is supposed to have — 314, statue of a female Musi-
been an ornament with which the cian, supposed, by the costume, to
tops of ancient Wells were some- have been executed in the time of
times eml)elli8hed^ — ^297, statue Trajan, or Adrian *» I — 315, Sarco-
of Mercury : the subject of the phagus, called that of Acteon '. —
Bas^o-riUevo on the Pedestal is 317, bust of Adrian'. — 318, statue
taken firom the Odyssey, and re- of Nemesis*. — 319, ditto of an In-
presents Ulysses in the Shades fant Hercules "". — ^321, statue sup-
Below, posed to represent Hope. The
HM of Pallas. No. 299, sta- Basso-rilievo which adorns the
tue of a Female petitioning the Pedestal, displays the formation of
0ods K The scu^tor who restored Man by Prometheus, and Minerva
uie hands of this statue, has con- giving nim life, under the emblem
verted it into an Euterpe. — 301, of a butterfly. — 328, the cinerary
statue of Ceres ». — 302, ditto of Urn of Clodius; Egyptian work-
tfae Genius of Bacchus "I — 304, manship, as appears from the hie-
bust of Trajan". — 306, statue of roglyphics'. — 33 1, a triangular Al-
Polynmia, upper part modem, tar, representing three of the signs
(z) Vil. BoTg. (e) Vil. Borg. O) Vil. Borg. (r) Vil. Borg.
la) Ibid. f/) Gabii. (m) Ibid. («) Qabii.
(6) Vil. Alb. (5) Ibid. (») IWd. (0 Ibid.
(c) Vil.?Borg. aS Vil. Borg. (o) Vil. Alb. Ou) Vil. Borg,
U) Ibid. (tj Gabii. ^) Vil. Borg. (c) Ibid.
ui) The receptacles for the ashes of riettms Qq) Ibid,
in neatben temples' seem to hare been vsmally •
thos adorned.
12
PARIS.
tCh. I.
of the zodiac, namely, Virgo, the
Scorpion, and Sa^ttarius, with the
three divinities, Ceres, Mars, and
Jupiter '. — 332, a Grecian Vase,
executed by an Athenian artist,
caUed Sosibius*. — 339, a sepul-
bassi-rilievi representing the twelve
principal divinities of me Greeks,
and supposed to be a production
of the ^Sgina School ! — 380, sta-
tue of Venus, supposed to be an
antique imitation of the Venus of
chral Urn, which contained the the Capitol*,
ashes of Fundanius Velinus^. — Hail of Psyche. No. 381, Al-
340, group representing a Peasant tar of twelve gods, found at Gabiil
cutting up a Deer*. — 341, statue This valuable piece of sculpture
of Euterpe ». — 343, Basin, or Bath is adorned with busts of the twelve
of Porphyry. Baths were some- principal divinities of the Greeks
times used as sepulchres, when and Romans, namely, Jupiter, Mi-»
properly shaped for the purpose **. nerva, Apollo, Juno, Neptune,
HcUl of Melpomene, The floor Vulcan, Mercury, Vesta, Ceres,
of this apartment is ornamented Diana, Mars, and Venus ; the two
with Mosaics, chiefly executed at last of whom Love is uniting : it
Paris by Belloni, and representing is likewise adorned with the twelve
Minerva in her car, followed by signs of the zodiac, and with sym-
Peace and Abundance ; with river bols of the divinity supposea to
Gods, ^c. forming a ])order to the preside over the month which each
picture. No. 344, bust of Isis. — sign indicates. — 383, statue of a
345, statue of a Female petitioning dancing Faun**. — 387, statue of
the gods, and supposed Jo be the Psyche*! — 398, statue of Minerva,
portrait of a Roman Empress
—347, bust of the Nile. — 348, co-
lossal statue of Melpomene, sup-
?osed originally to have adorned
'ompey's theabre, and found on
its site * ! ! ! — ^35 1 , bust of Jupiter-
Serapis! — 353, Altar consecrated
supposed to be a production of the
iEgina School. — 399, statue of Cu-
pid trying his bow ; probably an
antique copy of the bronze Cupid
of Lysippus^^-403, statue or a
dancing Faun.
Hall of the Augur, No. 417,
to Diana. — 354, statue of a Negro statue of Cupid *.^ 18, Basso^
Slave
rilievo, representing the funeral of
//a// of Isis, Fovir Columns of Hector ". — 439, Basso-rilievo re-
Spanish marble are placed in the presenting one of the Roman Au-
four comers of this apartment, gurs consulting the entrails of an
and serve as pedestals to four ox, and unique with respect to its
Egyptian Statues ; the most re- subject ".—442, statue of Com-
marKable of which is an Isis, with modus, found at Gabii.
a lion's head, in black basalt. No. Hall of Hercules and Telephus,
359, statue of Isis, found in Adri- — No. 450, a colossal group of
an's Villa. — 36 1, statue of an Egyp- Hercules and Telephus". — 458,
tian Priest. — 363, ditto, in green statue of Minerva p. — 461, recum-
basalt^. — 367, statue of an Egyp- bent statue of an Hermaphrodite:
tian Priestess kneeling^ with the this seems to be an antique imita-
throne of the god's in her hand ; tion of the celebrated Hermaphro-
found near the Via-Flaminia, dite in the Hall of the Caryatides,
about ten leagues from Rome. — The mattress is antique urdead,inthearmsofthebleis-
Eui^ee. — 167, Shepherds of Ar- ed Virgin, and Angels weeping ! —
cadia. — 168, Time rescuing Trath 426, the Infant Jesus reodving ho*
&om Enyy and Calumny, and mage from a Saint and a King ! —
bearing her to the Regions of 428,£a7roft>, the blessed Virgin and
Eternity !-^l 7 J, Diogenes throw* Infant Jesus receiying homage.^
ing away his drinking cup I — ^Lb VANDYCK,(FHiz.ip.)432,Abraham
SuBUR. — 1 99, S. Saul preaching at banishing Hagar and her Son. —
Ephesus!! — 262, Simon, the Cyre- Flinck. 444, an Angel announo*
nian, coming to the aid of Christ, ing the birth of the Messiah to the
who is renpresented as sinking under Shepherds. — Glaubbr. 451, a
the weight of his Cross, while S. Landscape, with figures by (x^rard
Veronica offers him a handkerchief de Lairesse! — ^Holbbuv, (John.)
which receives the impressicm Of 470, portrait of Sir Thomas More;.
his countenance ! — ^203, the descent 471, portrait of Erasmus.— 472,
from the Cross I — 206, and twenty- portrait of an Arch-bishop of Can-
one following numbers, the life terbury.— 473, portrait of Nicho-
of S. Bruno.— Vbrnbt. 257, An- las Kratzer, astronomer to Heniy
tibes.— 258, and 259, Toulon.— VIII, of England.— 478, the De«
260, old Port of Toulon. — 261, scent from the Cross, witii two
Gulph of Bandol. — ^262, and 263, other pictures in the same frame.
Marseille. — 264, Cette. — 265, and — Hooch, (Pbtbr de.) 484, the
266, Bayonne. — ^267, and 268, Bor- Interior of a Dutch Dwelling I —
deaux. — 269, La Rochelle. — 270, Van Huysum. 487, and all the
Rochrfort — 271, Dieppe. — 275, a intermediate numbers to 496, in-
Sea-port at sunrise! — ^276, a Sea- elusive. — Jardin. 498, the Cruci-
port at sunset ! — 282, a Sea-view fixion ! — Lucas de Lb ydsn. 522,
by moonlight ! — 283, a tempest. — the Descent from the Cross. —
284, a moonlight scenes — 285, a Matsys, (Quintin.) 526, a Jew-
tempest, eller weighing gold, and his Wife
Memishy German, and Dutch examining a book illuminated with
Schools. Bbrgheh. 324, View on miniatures. — Nbfp, (Peter.) 577,
the coast of Nice. — ^Both. 341, Interior of the Cathedral at An-
View at sunset in Italy ! — Breu- vers. — 578, Interior of a Church.
OHBL. — 3 53, the Garden of Eden. — — 579, an Angel delivering S.
Brill, (Paul.) A landscape, the Peter from Prison. — 580, Interior
figures in which are by Annibale of a Church. — 581, the same sub-
Caracci. — 360, and the three fol- ject. — Nbbr, (Vander.) 582, a
lowing numbers are by Paul Brill. Landscape, in which the Cows are
— Champaigns, (Philippe db.) — attributed to Guyp. — Oosr, (Van,
372, Les ReligieiMeg ! — 373, the the Elder.) 588, S. Carlo Borro-
Repast at the riouse of Simon the meo administering the Sacrament
Pharisee. — 374, the Last Supper, to persons infected with the Plague
— 379, a Landscape. — 380, ditto. — : at Milan. — Ostade, (Adrian
CuYP. 38d, a Landscape with Cat- Van.) 5 90, Family of the Painter. —
tie! — 390, a Gentleman mounting Ostade, (Isaac Van.) 597, Travd-
his horse. — 391, the same Gentle^, lers stopping at an Inn. — Poelen-
man returning from his ride.— buro* 604, an Angel announcing
Dow, (Gerard.) 404, the Dropsi-. the Messiah's birth to tiie »nep-
calWoanwi!l-409,aRiilo8optel herds.— Pbobus^ the youwswu
16 PARIS. [Ch. I,
609, portrait of GniUaume du 742, Cattle on the bank of a
Vair. — ^Paul Pottbr. 615, two river at sunrise. — ^Weenix the
Horses fastened to a water-trough, YotrNOER. 762, a Hare, and other
and a Man bringing them water! Game. — 76d,aPeacock,Game, and
— 616, Cattle in meadow 1 — Pyna- a dog ! — ^Werf, (Adrian Van-
KBR. 619, a Landscape with Cat- der.) 765, Pharaoh's Daughter dis-
tle. — ^Rembrandt. 620, and the covering Moses I — 767, an Angel
three following numbers, portraits announcing the Messiah's birth to
of the Painter.— -626, Head of a the Shepherds 1—768, the Magda-
man with a fur-cap. — 627, Head lene in me Desert I — 770, Nymphs
of an old person with a long beard, dancing, and a Faun playing the
— 628, Tobit and his Famuy, pro- flute ! — ^Wouvermans, (Philip.)
strate before the Angel of the 778, an Attack of Polish Cavalry.
Lord! — 629, the good Samaritan. Schools of ItcUy. Albano. 811,
—630, the Savioiu- at Emmaus. — the Salutation. — 815, the Infant
631, ^e same subject. — 632, S. Jesus embracing S. John. — 818,
Matthew writing, and an Aiigel Venus impatient to try the effect
dictating to him. — 633, Venus and of her beauty on the heart of
Cupid! — 634, a Philosopher in Adonis. — 819, Vulcan reposing at
meditation. — 635, the Interior of a the feet of Venus, while the Loves
Tradesman's Dwelling. — ^Rosa di forge arms for the latter. — 820, the
TivoLi. 637, a Wolf devouring a Loves, while sleeping after their
Sheep. — ^Rubens. 640, Lot and his laboiu's, disarmed by Diana's
Daughters leaving Sodom. — 641, Nymphs. — 821, the Loves, after
Elias succoured bv an An^el in having recovered their losses, and
the Desert. — 642, the adoration of become triumphant, conducting
the Magi. — 643, the Flight into Adonis to the feet of Venus. — An-
Egypt. — 644, the blessed Virgin drea del Sarto. 838, the blessed
and our Saviour surrounded with Virgin and our Saviour listening to
groups of Children : known by the S. John, who is presented to them
name of La Vierge aux Anges. by Elizabeth.^839, Charity. — Ba-
Twenty-four pictures, (the first toni, (Cav. Pompeo.) 857, the
number being 650,) taken from the blessed Virgin in contemplation. —
Luxembourg Palace, and repre- BomFAZzio. 868, the Resurrection
senting the Life of Maria de' Me- of Lazarus. — Bordone, (Paris.)
dici. — 674, portrait of Richardot. 872, Portrait of a yoimg Man, hold-
— 678, representation of a Village ing a letter in one hand, and rest-
FSte! — ^RuYSDAEL. 683, a Land- ing the other on a table. — Cana-
scape, the Figures and Cattle by letto. 880, View of the Basilica
Berghem ! — 684, a Landscape, the and Piazza di S. Marco, at Venice.
Figures by Philip Wouvermans I — — 881, View of the Palazzo Ex-
685, a Tempest I — Santwoort. — Ducale, at Venice. — 882, View of
687, the Saviour at Enunaus ! — the Church of the Madonna della
Schalken. 688, the Holy Family I Salute, at Venice. — Caravagoio.
— Sneyders. 701, Animals enter- (Michelangelo Amergihi.) 886,
ing the Ark. — 705, a Kitchen. — the blessed Virgin dead, and the
Steenwick. 711, the inside of a Apostles weeping. — 888, a young
Church. — 7 1 2, the inside of a Hall, Woman telling a Youth his fortune,
with figures by Poelenburg, repre- — Caracci, (Annibale.) 895, the
senting Christ with Martha and Nativity. — 898, the blessed Virgin
Mary. — ^Teniers, (David, the imposing silence on S. John, to
Younger.) 724, the temptation of prevent his disturbing our Saviour
S. Anthony. — 724, Head of an old when asleep ! — 902, the Ascension,
man.— Vandbrybldb, (Adrian.) — ^906, the Martyrdom of S. Ste-
^
Ch.I.l PARIS. 17
pfaen! — 907, the same subject! — of Design and Colonring. — 1037»
Oaracci, (Lodovico.) 919, the Hercules slaying the Lernaean Hy-
bkssed Virgin and Infant Jesus! dra. — 13 08, Hercules wrestlingwith
— Cavedonk. 926, S. Cecilia. — Achelous. — 1 03 9, Hercules slaying
CoRREGGio. Christ presenting the Nessus. — 1 040, tiie Death of Her-
ring, for Ids mystic marriage, to cules. — 1041, tiie Flight of Paris
S: Catherine of Alexandria! — 933, with Helen. — Giulio Romano.
Christ crowned with thorns. — 934, 1045, the Adoration of the Shep-
Antiope asleep. Love sleeping by herds. — Lanfranco. 1052, S.
her side on a lion*s skin, and Jupi- Peter and S. Paul led to martyr-
ter standing near transformed into dom. — Leonardo da Vinci, (the
a Satyr!! — ^Daniello da Vol- Founder of the Milan School.)
TERRA. 940, David vanquishing 1057, portrait of Monna Lisa, a
G6lia^, a double picture on the celebrated Florentine beauty •. —
same subject*. — ^Dolci, (Aonesb.) 1058, S. John the Baptist ! — 1059,
941, Christ consecrating the bread. S. Anne, the blessed Virgin, and
— ^DoMENiCHiNO. 943, David play- Infant Jesus. — 1060, the Infant
ingthe harp. — 945, a Landscape, Jesus blessing S. John. — 1061, the
representing the Flight into Egypt, Arch-angel, Michael, presenting to
and attributed, by some persons, the Infant Jesus the oalance des<-
to Annibale Caracci. — 948, S. Ce- tined to weigh the actions of man-
dlia! ! — 949, ^neas escaping with kind. — School of Leonardo da
his Father from the flames of Troy! Vinci. 1062, Christ receiving a
—956, a Concert ; this picture is Cross of Rushes from S. John. —
by some persons attributed to Lovini, (Bernardo,) commonly
Leonello Spada! — Espagnoletto. called Luini. — 1065, the Holy Fa-
975, the adoration of the Shep- mily. — 1066, the Messiah sleeping,
herds! — Feti, (Domenico.) 981, Maratta, (Carlo.) 1067, the
Melancholy ! — Garofolo, (Ben- blessed Virgin shewing the Mes-
venuto.) 990, a mystic subject. — siah to Angels and Shepherds. —
Gasparo Dughet, called Gas- 1079, the Marriage of S. Cathe-
PARO PoussiN. 991, 992, and 993, rine. — Murillo. 1090, the Infant
Landscapes.— Giordano, (Luc a.) Jesus playing with a chapletl! — '
997, the Messiah accepting the in- 1091, God the Father and the
struments of the Passion ! — Guer- Holy Ghost contemplating the
ciNO. 1008, the blessed Virgin and Messiah while he receives a cross
S. Peter deploring the death of the of rushes from S. John! — 1092,
Messiah. — 1016, Circe.— Guido. the Messiah, on the Mount of
1021, the Salutation. — 1022, the Olives, presented by an Angel with
Infant Saviour sleeping on his the chalice and the cross ! — 1 093,
Mother*s knees. — 1025, Christ and S. Peter imploring pardon of the
the Samaritan. — 1026, Christ giv- Messiah. — 1095, a young Beggar
ing the keys of Heaven to S. Peter, seated ! I — Palm a Vecchio. 1 1 00,
-*-1027, Christ crowned with thorns, portrait supposed to be that of the
— 1028, the Circumcision!— 1030, Chevalier Bayard. — 1101, the
Christ in the garden of Olives. — blessed Virgin and Infant Jesus
1031, the Magdalene. — 1032, the receiving adoration from Eliza-
same sulgect.— 1035, S. Francis beth, S.John, &c.! — ^Paolo Vb-
kneeling Defore a crucifix. — 1036, ronese. 1119, thd Messiah sinking
an allegory representing the union under the weight of his Cross. —
(») It is said that Monsignor Giovanni tviro sides of the model ; which seems to hare
deUa Cass, a Florentine prelste, employed been done in this double picture.
Paniello da Volterra to model a group in (p) Francis I, of France, gave for this pic-
plaater, of David vanquishing Goliath; and ture 4,000 gold crowns; a sum exceeamg
thea desired him to represent, in painting, th« 46,000 francs. -
C
18
PARIS,
[Oh-L
FlBT^O SA CORTONA. 1136, the
blessed Vimn with the Infant
Jesus and S. Martina.-r-1137, the
san^e subject. — 1138, Faustulus
presenting Ronaulus and Remus
to his wife, Lauren tia. — ^Eaffaelo
Sanzio d'Ui^bino, the Founder of
the Roman School. — 1149, Por-
traits of Raphael and his Fencing
Master; or, according to some
opinions. Portraits of I&phael and
lH>ntormo, by the latter. — 1150,
Portrait of Jane of Aragon, Vice
Queen of Sicily: the head was
painted bv Raphael, and the other
part of the pictvure by Giulio Ro-
mano ! — 1 151, Portrait of Baltha-
sar Castiglione, the Friend of Ra-
phael!— 1152, Portrait of a Youth
viitti his head resting on his hand.
1154, the Arch-angel Michael
vanquishing Satan. — 1156, S.
George combating an enormous
Dragon. — 1157, the Holy Family,
called. La belle Jar dinure. — 1158,
the Holy Family, painted for Fran-
cis I, of France, only two years
before the death of Raphael ; and
supposed to be the sole picture
to which he put his name ! I — 1159,
the Infant Jesus sleeping. — 1160,
the Infant Jesus caressing S. John.
S ALVAToa Rosa. 1 1 75, a Sports-
man shooting a bird, and soldiers
reposing on a rock. — 1176, a Sea-
view. — Sasso Fbrrato. 1 1 78,
Christ sleeping on the lap of the
blessed Virgin, with Cherubim in
the angles of the picture I — 1179,
the Apotheosis of the blessed Vir*
gin — ScHiAVONB. 1181, Head of
S.JohnBaptist.— -ScHiQONB. 1182,
tiie Jloly Family. — Sebastiano
DBL PiOMBO. 1186, the blessed
Virgin visiting Elizabeth. — Lbo-
NBLLO Spada. 1192, the prodigal
Son. — ^TiNTQRETTO. 1 1 95, Portrait
of the Painter.— 1 202, the Last Sup-
(9) According to tradition the Pilprtm on
the. rif bt of our Saviour repretfents the Km-
peror Charles V ; the Pilgrim on the left
Cardinal Ximenes ; and the Page, Philip II,
of Spain.
(r) A coptiderabU number of the pictures
ia tiiia Moaeum have b«en engraved ; and proofs
Iffipressions are sold, for the l)<me6t w thf.
per. — 1203, Christ dead, supported
oy weeping Angels.— Tizi and, (Ve-
CELuo,) one of the Founders of
the Lombard School. — 1205, Por-
traits of the Painter and his Mis-*
tress. — 1206, Portrait of Francis I,
of France! — 1207, Portrait of
Cardinal Hippolito de' Medici.—.
1209, Portrait of Alphonso d'Ava-
los. — 1210^ Portrait of a Man
dressed in black, with a Beard and
Whiskers! — 1211, Portrait of ft
young Man in black, with a Glov^
on his left hand. — 1214, Portrait
of a Man with a Glove in his
right hand. — ^^1215, the Soldiers
insulting the Messiah at the door
of his prison!!-^1217, the Mes-r
siah borne to the Tomb. — 1218,
the Pilgrims of Emmaus*». — 1219,
the blessed Virgin, the Infant
Jesus, and Saints! — 1220; An-
gels worshipping the Messiah,
— 1221, the blessed Virgin hold^
ing a Rabbit, for which the In-
fant Jesus seems to ask. — 1222,.
S. Agnes presenting her Palm of
Martyrdom to the Messiah I —
Vanni, (Francjesco.) 1233, the
Mar^dom of S. Irene !-^VELASt
QUEz. 1235, Portrait of an Infanta
of Spain'.
Admission may usually be ob-^
tained gratis to the MtMie Royai
every morning, from ten o'clock
till four, by Foreigners ; provided
they shew their passports : and
admission is given to the public
in general eveiy Sunday, from two
o'clock till four*.
Musce da Luxembourg. The
Luxembourg Palace, now denomif
nated La Chambre det Pairs, is
adorned with Statues by modem
artists, Ceihngs painted by Lesueur,
a splendid Room containing Pie«
tures by Rubens, and a Museum
or Gallery formerly enriched with
Establishment, at the Calcographie dn Mu»e$
Royal.
(g) Foreigners are admitted on week-dayst
at a door to the right of the principal entrance,
upon depositing their pastiporla with th#
porter till their return.
The want of Seats at the lourre is madi tp
lift regr«tUd.
Ph. I.J
PARIS.
19
some of the 'finest workf of Ru«
bens, Lesueur, and Vernet; but
these being removed to the Louvre,
their places are now occupied by
an Exhibition of the most cele-
brated Works of modem French
Poiiiters, This Exhibition is open
fvery day, from ten o'clock till four :
and Travellers, on shewing their
passports, are allowed to see seve^
ral other ap^ments of the Palace
fvay day, Mondays excepted S be-
tween ^e hours of ten and four;
thoogh. to the Public, these Apart-*
ments are open on Sundays only.
Ecple Eoyak lies Beaux Arts^
Bue de9 PetiU Atigu$tini; ct-
ihvant Musee dss Monumens Fran-
pai>. Monsietnr Lenoir* to whom
Paris was indebted for this Mu-
fmaif arranged in duponological
order all the sepulchriU monu-
ments he was able to rescue from
the saoril^ous srasp of the infa*
tiuted leaders or the Fr^ch Re*
volution : thus exhibiting a series
of memorials of the most distin-
guished eharaeters to whom France
Has ^ven birth, 0t)m the days of
Clovis to the present era \ and at
the same time forming a \i\siary
of the commencement and progress
of Sculpture, and the Art of Paint-,
ing upon Glass, among his coun-
trymen. But, since the re-estab-
lishment of the House of Bourbon,
tba tombs contained in this repo-
sitory have been replaced in the
churches whence they were taken ^
tiiibe remaining part of the Museum
dispersed; and the apartments
appropriated to the Ecole Royah
d€9 Beaux Arts ; which is divided
into two sections, one of Sculpture
and Painting, and the other of
Architecture : its schools are open
to the public every afternoon, from
five o'clodt till seven, festivals and
vacation times excepted: its most
deserving students are rewarded
with medals* and the Academie
Moyale des peaux Arts presents
(t) Admittance mar be obtMaaBi. M Af«B>
days, on application, oy letter, to M. le Qaes*
them, annually, with a ptlze t tto
gainer of which has the adv antage of
being sent to study at the Fi^noh
Academy in Rome four years;
and, dunng that period, he is majnr
tained by the French Govemmenl.
BMiotkhquB du Rat, Rue 40
Richelieu. This Library, perhapp
the finest existing, contains abova
seven hundred thousand printed ▼<>>-
lumes ; near eighty thousand Maou*-
seripts r between five and six thoup
sand Portfohos of Engravinnt
a Cabinet of Antiquities eorioIiM
with peculiarly ra» and precioiia
Medals, and Cmna, amounting 19
eighty thousand; and a magmfi*
cent collection of Camei uad Mm
tagli \yy the most cdebrated aOit
cient Greek artists. Here is a
Psalter printed at Mets, in 14ftf»
and said to be the most ancitnl
s))ecimen of typography bearing a
date ; the Mazarine Bible. suppcSed
to have been printed in 1456, wiUi
cut-metal types; Manuscripts of
Josephus, Galileo, Leonaitlo da
Vinci, Fenelon, Louis XIV, ice.
Prayer-books of the fifth and sixtl|
centuries ; a statement of receipts
and disbursements under Philippa
le Bel in the fourteenth eenttfiy,
(written on waxen tablets;) and
sevmd Oriental Manuscripts of
high antiquity : a ^old Medal d[
Marcus Antonius, Junior ; a Ma*
dal of Nero ; and another of Pe8«
cennius Nieer ; a Greek Medallion,
in silver, of the same £mperor ; a
gold Medal of Uranius, sumamad
Antoninus ; a satirical Medal of
GaUienus with a woman^s head*
dress ; a gold Medallion of Jus*
tinian ; anothar of Alexander ly*
rannus Africanus ; and a third of
the Emperor Romulus. The larga
Gallery, belon^ng to the apart*
ments appropriate to the manu-
scripts, is ornamented with a Ceil*
in^ painted by RomaneUi. The Ca-
binet des Estampes occupies several
rooms of the Entresol: and Trar
tenr ie la CkambN dee Paiw, a«. iMun^^
C 2
20 , PARIS. tCh,L
Tellers desirous of seeing the most ten in the morning till two ; Festi-
interesting Prints in this immense vals, and Vacation times excepted,
collection, should ask, in the Biblioihkque de Monsieur, Rue
Schools of Italy, for the Works of de Stdly, a VextrimiU du Quai
Michael Angelo, Raphael, Titian, des Celestins. This Library, sup-
Correggio, the Caracci-family, and posed to contain an hundred and
Guido — ^in those of Germany, Al- nfty thousand printed Volumes,
bert Durer, and Holbein-^in those and five thousand Manuscripts, is
of the Netherlands, Lucas Van particularly rich in History, and
Leyden, Rembrandt, Rubens, and Italian Poetry ; and also contains
Vandyck — ^and in those of France, some beautiml Missals : it is open
Poussin, Lebrun, Lesueur, and to the Public every day, (Festivals
Rigaud**.^ This Library is open and Vacation times excepted,)
to Students every day, festivals from ten in the morning till two
and vacation times excepted, from in the afternoon,
ten in the morning till four in the Biblioth>que de la ViUe, Place
affcemoon. Travellers are admitted du Sanhedrin, derrihre l"H6tel de
on Tuesdays and Fridays, from ten Ville. This Library contains about
till two; and Literary Persons, forty thousand Volumes ; andpos-
with permission of the Minister of sesses valuable Botanical and His-
the Interior, are allowed to bor- torical works. During the first
row books from the Library. : and second weeks of every month
Bibliothique Mazarine, Palais it is open to the Public on Thurs-
des Beaux Arte, Quai Conti. This days, Fridays, and Saturdays, from
library, which originally contained noon tilKfour o'clock. Festivals
about sixty thousand Volumes, has and Vacation times excepted ; and
lately been enriched with the Li- during the two last weeks of every
brary of the Institute : it likewise month it is open daily, with the
possesses a fine terrestrial Globe ; same exceptions,
and is open to the Public every Bibliotnbque du Mueie dHie^
day, from ten in the morning tiU toire Naiurelle, Rue du Jardin
two, Thursdays, Festivals, and des Plantes, This Library, well
Vacation times excepted. stored with Manuscripts, Draw-
Bibliothique de S, Genevieve, ings» Paintings upon vellum, and
Place S. Geneviive, Bdtimens du -■ Printed Works relative to Natural
College, Henri IV. This Library, History, may be visited by Travel-
supposed to contain an hundred lers who shew their passports, on
and twelve thousand printed Vo- Mondavs, Wednesdays, and Satur-
lumes, and two thousand Manu- days; nrom three o'clock till six,
scripts, is particularly well ar- during Summer; and from three
ransed ; ana adorned with Busts till dark during Winter. Students
of mstin^shed Characters. Here are admitted on the aforesaid days,
likewise is a plan of Rome, exe- from eleven in the morning tilltwo\
cuted W Grimini, in 1776; apor- Mus6e dHistoire Naturelle, et
trait of Marv, Queen of Scots; Jardin des Plantes. Quai S.
and, on the Wall of the Staircase, Bernard ^t Rue du Jardin des
a very laree and valuable Drawing Plantes. The Botanic Garden,
of the Moon. This Libraiy is belonging to this Museum, con«
open to the Public every day, from tains a large coUection of Plants
(«) The Portfolio of Oaignieret, oootaintnr ten o'clock till two ; as is the Cabinet of
a collection of the Coj^tami of the French
nation from the days of Cloris to the present
period, majT be foand among the prints.
(v) The Library of La Faculte de Mede-
cia#t Bne de PEcoh de Midedne^ rich in me- leaye to yisit them*
dical work*, ii open to tho PabUo daily, from
are accesbible to Travellers who apply for
Ch. I.]
PARIS.
81
from various countries; together
yiiih Buildings which serve as
Bens for Wild Beasts ; and a
Menagerie so constructed that
Tame Animals, not natives of
France, and Birds of all kinds
and countries, are provided with
habitations analogous to their
modes of life : and in the midst
of this appropriate spot the French
Naturalists have erected a modest
Monument to Linnaeus. The Am-
phitheatre of Anatomy stands in
the Garden ; as does the Museum
of Natural History ; the flrst floor
of which is devoted to Geology,
Mineralogy, and the finest collec-
tion in Europe of Reptiles and
Fishies. The second floor contains
an equally magnificent assemblage
of Quadrupeds and Birds (the
latter preserved to admiration), to-
gether with Insects, Shells, &c.
&c^.
The Botanic Garden is always
open to the Public ; the Museum
of Natural History every Tuesday
and Friday from three in tlie after-
noon till six, during Summer ; and
from three till dark, during Winter.
The Gates of the Menagerie are
open every day, from eleven till
six, during Summer; and from
eleven till three, during Winter.
Travellers may obtain access to
the Museum of Natural History
and the Library on Mondays,
Wednesdays, ancf Saturdays, upon
f reducing their passports. The
.ibrary is open to Students three
times a week.
The line Bridge of Austerlitz,
now called P(mt du Jardin da
Roi, is a great ornament to the
Botanic Garden.
Acadimie Royale de Musique^ or
rOp&a, Rue Lepelletier, This
Theatre, which is spacious and
sonorous, presents the inbst bril-
liant spectacle in Europe with re-
(w) The Cabinet of Comparative Anatomy,
belonging to this MuMnm, is reputed to be
flie richest existing.
(*) Paris contains sereral other Theatres,
two of which were opened in 18S7* All the
spect to scenes, maehiiieiy, dret sw,
accuracy of costume,- and exAfii-
lence relative to the composition
and execution of the ballets repre«
sent^. It is open on Sundays,
Wednesdays, and Fridays.
Thidire Franfois, Rue de Riche*
lieu. This Theatre is dedicated to
the representation of the most ad-
mired works of the dramatic wri*
ters of France.
Theatre de fOoira Comique^
Rue Feydeau. This Theatre is
particularly well calculated for
music.
ThedtredetOdSon,prisleLux»
embourg. This Theatre exhibits
regular French comedies and tra-
f;^ies ; and seems therefore to be
improperly called an Odeon.
TlUdtre du Vaudeville, Rue de
Chartres S. Honorl This Theatre
exhibits melo-dramas, interspersed
with songs.
Thedtre des Vari^tis, Boulevard
Montmartre. The pieces a«ted
here are farces*.
Manufacture Royds des Glaces,
Rue de Reuillt/, This Manufac-
ture merits notice : it employs up-
ward of seven hundred workmen,
who have attained such perfection
in their art as to make mirrors of
the finest plate-glass, 120 inches
in height by 80 in breadth.
Manufacture Royale des Tapis^
series de la Courortne, auj' Gobe^
lins. Rue Mouffetard, This Manu-
facture is particularly well worth
notice. The work-rooms are four
in number, and contain pieces of
tapestry in different states of for-
wardness. In the work called the
basse lisse^, the loom is placefl
horizontally, like that of the.weaver :
in the h<mte lisse the warp is verti-
cal, and the workman has his
frame before him ; but, beine
E laced behind the canvas on which
e is working, his back is turned
French Theatres pay a tenth of their receipts
- (y) ^e basse lisse has been lately aban-
doned.
tdWAM his fiiodell though dcdft* Ott the t5th of Ati^st i8dd, Parii^
siofl&lly h€i rei)^rs to it) in order to began to erect this fine Arch, in
^HipAre the eolotir of his yam order to perpetuate the fkme ob*
Witii thftt part of the pictnre he is tainedby the French armies durinj|
copying. iTlese workmen express the former year. It was intended
with perfect truth not only the de- to be one 'hundred and thirty-five
aign of the most celebrated pic- Paris feet in height ; but unfor-
tureS, but also the tightness of tunately is not finished,
their colours, and the regular gra- Porte S. Denii. The conquests
dfetiOh bf their shades ; So that the of Louis XIV, in 1672, prompted
Gobelin Tapestry (so called from a the City of Paris to erect this mag-
fluhous dyer ofwool, Jean Gobe- nificent Triumphal Arch, to perpe*
^) has the effefct of the most ex* tuate his fame. The Basn-riHevi
^uisite painting : but it somelimea represent Military Trophies re-
requires six years of labour to markably well executed ; personi-
fittish one pi«3e of thisTApestry; fications of Holland and the
and eighteen thousand fi*ancs to Rhine ; the Passage of the Rhine ;
piiy the cost. The Mmmfaciure and the capture of Maestricht.
de^ Cfobdins is supported At the Porte S. Martin. The continued
expense of the IfVench Govern* success of Louis XIV, induced the
tAeht; and to this Establishment City of Paris to erect, in 1673,
is annexed the celebrated Royai another monument to perpetuate
CarjeT: Manufactory, founded by his fame. This Arch, though less
Maria de' Medici in 1604. adorned than that of S. Denis, iS
For admission Foreigners must in point of architecture equally
apply, by letter post-paid, to M* harmonious and deified. The
le Vicomte de la Rochefoucauld, bassi-rili&vi represent the Capture
Directeur des Beaux Arts, No. ofBesan^on; the Triple AUianee ;
lau Rue de Grenelle, Fauboui^ the Capture of Limbourg; and the
S* Gmnain. Defeat of the Germans, figured by
Chhnne de Id Pktc6 Vmidni^, the God of War repulsing aft
This stately Doric Column, one Eagle. Distinguished artists werd
hundred and thirty-five feet itl employed to execute these Gates,
height, pedestal inclusive, and THhunal da Corpi L^gistatif^
twelve feet in diameter*, is made of Opposite to the Bridge of Louis
ctonon taken fi-om the enemies of XVl, rises a magnificent Portico,
France, in battles fought by Napo- near an hundred feet in breadth,
ttOtt and his generals : it represents and adorned with twelve Corinthian
those battles in bronie oassi-ri'- Columns, surmounted by a Pedi-^
Uevi; and on its summit originally ment. A superb Plight of Stepii
itood a colossal Statue of the Em- leads to the entrance of the Edi-
pefor, which, after his dethrone* fice ; and fronting the Bridge are
ntent, was taken down ; and has. Statues of Sully, Colbert, rH6pi-
ECeording to report, been carried tal, and d'Aguesseau. Tliis Por-
to Moscow. A winding staircase^ of tico leads to the Hall of tiie De-
one hundred and seventy-six steps, puties.
Jeads to the top of this Triumphal CathMrdede NStre-Dame. ThiU
Pillar; which is said to preserve the building, supposed to have been
proportions of Trajan's Column^ commenced about the year 1010,
on A scale larger by a twelfth. is surmounted by Twin-Towers of
Arc d4 IHornpke de fEioil^ a ini^estio height; and contains
(i") The dimensioDB of this Cdltmii ax* in English or Frtnch feet. One Pftrit foot li
copied from Oalignani: but he does not twdre BttgUsh iach«g and fom fifdA
specify whether his measurements were taken
<Jh.f.j PAftlS. IS
irood paintings hf Philippe de tftnk ; ^o h&s a sUff tinder h\n
tlhaihp^tisrne, Jouvenet, &c. to- command. Skilful physicians and
ftether with a descent from the surgeons are attached to the in-
Cross (in sculpture) by the elder stitution ; and the Soeurs de ia
Coustou : and behind the Sane- Charity nurse the sick with th<
tuary, in a newly erected Chapel, tenderest care : all the Pension-
is an admired Statue, by Antonio ers are provided with abundant
Rasra^i, executed at Rome. and wholesome nourishment ; and
Pantheon. This elegant Build- likewise with pay proportioned to
ins^, dedicated to S. G^nevidve, the their rank in tlie army. The Cout
Patron Saint of Paris, was erected Roy ale of this edifice, and the
by command of Louis XV, after Dome of the new Church, are
the desi&ns of Soufflot: its form deemed masterpieces of architec-
is a QreeK cross, three hundred and ture; especially the latter, which
forty Paris feet in length, peristyle was erected according to the de-
inclusive ; and two hundred and signs of Jules Hardomn Mansart ;
fifty feet wide. In the centre and (measuring from the pave-
rises a Dome nearly sixty-three bient to the cross on the summit
leet in diameter ; supported within, of the lantern) is reputed to bg
and ad6med without, by Columns three hundred Paris feet in height *•
which produce a pleasing effect. The lead which covers it was ori-
The exterior height of the Dome finally gilt, by order of Louis
is two hundred and eighty-two XIV, and re-gilt by command of
feet ; and the interior height of the Napoleon. This stately Edifice is
Nave one hundred and seventy United to the old Church by means
feet. The Peristyle consists of of two Circular Sacristies, and the
twenty-two fluted Corinthian Co- Arch in which the High Altar
lumns fifty-eight feet high, Bases stands : and the Pavement con-
and Capitals inclusive ; and five sists of inlaid marbles, which re-
feet and a half in diameter ; sup- present Lilies, the Cordon of the
porting a pediment one hundred Order of Saint Esprit, &c. Un-
and twenty feet long. Under this der the Dome are six Chapels j
Church is a vast ttefteptacle for the first of which, to the right (oa
the Relics of the Great*. entering by the great door) is de-
Garde-Meuhle de la Coutonne* dicated to S. Augustine, and em-
The Jewels in this Depository me- bellished with Paintings by Louis
rit notice; especially that placed Boullogne. The next contains a
on the summit of the Crown, and Monument erected to the memory
distinguished by the name of The of Marshal Vauban, an hundred
Regent. years after his decease. The Cha-
H6tel Royal des Invalidee, This pel of S. Ambrose was painted by
immense Edifice was erected by Bon BouUogpie. The Chapel of
command of Louis XIV, as a re- S. Gregpry is said to have been
treat for old and deserving soldiers originally painted by Le Brun, and
6f the French army ; and displays re-touched by Doyen. The Cha-
a magnificence most honourable pel of S. Theresa contains the
to its founder. It accommodates Monument of Turenne, who is re-
•even thousand persons ; and is presented dying in the arms of
j^ovemed by an officer of high Victory: at his Ibet is an affrighted
(a) The Church of St. Kostace is bold and (P^ Th« interior heiirht of th« Dom« « rc-
Bght. in point of Afchitcctnre ; and thft ptit«d to be one hundred and ninety feet, and
Chnrches of 8. Roch and S. SuUiee, bnilt Ita diamtter nixt/v
alKmt th^ mlddU of tbO eifhtMatn ocntar/,
are handsome.
S4 PARIS. [Ch.L
Eagle, the sfymbol of the Empire Institution Royafe des Sourds*
over which he gained repeated Muete, Rue S. Jacques. The be-
conquests ; and in front of the nevolent idea of teaching the Deaf
Monument is a basso-Hlievo, (re- and Dumb to read, write, and
presenting the Battle of Turckeim,) speak, was formed by the Abb£ de
beneath which are Wisdom and I'Ep^e ; who, with a fortune of
Valour bewailing the death of the only twelve hundred livres per
Hero. The last Chapel is dedi- annum, maintained, at his own
cated to S. Jerome ; and was expense, forty Pupils of the above
painted by Bon Boullogne^ Above description ; and tnus founded one
the opemngs of the four Chapels of the noblest charities in France :
at the angles, are beautiful Bassi- but all the sacrifices he was com-
rilievi; namely, S. Louis sending pelled to make, in order to accom-
Missioiiaries to instruct the Infi- plish his purpose, would at lensth
dels, by Sebastian Slodtz ; ah An- have proved fruitless, had not Ids
gel bearing a Buckler, by Nicholas talents and virtues been renewed
Coustou ; S. Louis feeding the in the Abb^ Sicard ; who brought
Poor, by Legros ; an Angel hold- the plans of his predecessor to
ing the holy Ampulla^ by Antoine such perfection that he enabled
Flamant ; the Pope blessing S. the Deaf and Dumb not onl}^ to
Louis and his children, by Fran- read, write, and speak, but uke-
cesco Spingola ; and an Angel wise to cast accounts, and to under-
holding m one hand a crown, and stand turning, mosaic work, draw*
in the other a Standard, bearing ing, and painting, so as to get
fhe^eurs'de-lis, by Comeille Van- their livelinood. He also taught
Cleve. The Ceiling of the Sane- them French and English gram-
tuary, painted by Noel Coypel, re- matically ; geography, history, ge-
' presents the Mysteries oftneTri- ometry, and metaphysics; and at
nity, and the Assumption of the the conclusion of every month his
Virgin. The groups of Angels, Pupils had a public exhibition :
forming Concerts in the Embra- death, however, deprived them,
sures of the Windows, are by in May, 1822, of their excellent
Louis and Bon Boullqgne. The Master ; who was succeeded by
Vault of the Nave forms four the Abb6 Perier. His number of
arches; in the Pendentives of gratuitous Pupils is Hxed at ninety ;
which are the four Evangelists, by but that of Boarders is unlimited.
Charles de la Fosse ; above these The terms for Boarders depend
are' the twelve Apostles, by Jou- upon the pecuniary resources of
venet ; and in the upper part of their parents ; but the common
the Cupola is the Apotheosis of S. demand is nine hundred francs a
Louis, by Charles de la Fosse *. year for boys, and eight hundred
The H6tel des Invalides is open francs for girls,
to the Public every day, from ten Tickets of admission, during the
in the morning till lour in the public exercises, may be obt^ned
afternoon : but its Library (which by applying (by letter, post-paid)
was presented to the Establish- to the Director, at the Institution,
ment by Napoleon) cannot be Notice de la Salpctriere, Sou*
seen without permission from the levard de rH6pital,pr^s le Jardin
Governor ; who must be applied des Plantes, This large and well
to by letter. regulated Hospital, nobly endowed
(jc) Colonels and Lientenant-ColoneU, in porcelain at tables holding twelve persont
tills noble Establishment, have the priyilege each ; and for sub-officers and privates thei>e
of taking their meals in their own rooms : are three large tables. It is an interesting
inferior officers are served upon plate and sight to 9ee these veterans dine.
Ch. 10 PARIS. S$
by Louis XIV, and enriched by the Building consists of iron and
private contributions, can acccom- copper ; and the SalU de la Boune
modate nearly eight thousand per- is nch in Sculpture, adorned with
sons ; and receives females inca- Monochromatic Paintings, and
pable of eamine their bread. paved with marble.
H6pit(d des Enfans-trouvcs cmd Oreniers de Reserve, Boulevard
Hospice de la MatemiU, Rite de la Bourdon, This, edifice was begun
Bourbe. The exemplary Vincent in 1807, and would, if completed
de Paul erected, in 1640, a Hos- according to the original plan,
pital for Foundlings ; which was have been capable of containing
afterwards greatly assisted, both an hundred thousand quintals of
by private and public bounty ; but, com : but political events occa-
nevertheless, during 1792, out of sioned a suspension of the work ;
eight thousand Children received which was, however, resumed in
in this Asvlum the moiety died be- 1816, though on so limited a
fore they had attidned their second scale that the store-houses would
year : and to check the course of not, at present, contain more than -
so dreadful a mortality. Monsieur one-third the quantity they were
Hombron conceived the happy originally destined to receive,
idea of uniting the Mothers with Abattoirs. The Slaughter-
their Children, and thus preserving houses constructed by the Romans
both. Ceasing, therefore, to make to snve health to the ancient Oa-
a lying-in Hospital of the HStel pitsd of the civilized world, were
Dieu, the French Government not more magnificent than the
formed the Foundling Hospital Abattoirs of Popincourt smd Mont'
into. a double Establishment ; the Martre; which, together with the
one part for pregnant Women, and Abattoir du Route, are placed at
the other for deserted Infants. the northern extremity of Paris.
Observatoire, Rue dEn/er. This The Abattoirs divry, and de Vau-
buildine was erected by order of girard, are placed at the southern
Louis XIV, and has, of late years, extremity. These estabhshmeuts,
been much improved in point of admirable for the order and expe-
convenience, and amply furnished dition with which they are cleansed
with astronomical instruments : it and purified, though multitudes of
is open to Travellers every day. animals are every day slaughtered
Palais de la Bourse, Rue des and skinned tliere, contain a con-
Filles S, Thomas. Paris has long siderable number of Courts, Sheep-
wanted an Exchange worthy of pens. Stalls for Oxen, Tanks,
her extensive commerce ; and this store-houses for fodder, commo-
Building, begun in 1807, and re- dious Slaughter-houses, building
cently finished, does great honour provided with every requisite for
to its Architect, Brongniard. Its mdting tallow, and spacious At-
form is a parallelogram of two tics, where hides and tallow are
hundred and twelve feet by one deposited.
himdred and twenty-six : it is sur- The Abattoir of Mont-Martre
roj^nded by a Peristyle of sixty-six is three hundred and eighty-nine
Corinthian Columns, supporting yards in length, by one hundred
an Entablature and an Attic, and and forty in breadth. The Abattoir
forming a covered Gallery ap- of Popincourf likewise is very ex-
proached by a flight of Steps, ex- tensive : the others are smaller ;
tending the whole length of the but equally commodious. Travel-
western Front. This Gallery is lers who apply for a Guide at the
adorned with Bassi-rilievi which Porter's Lodge, may visit any one
relate to commerce. The roof of of the Abattoirs; and wUoev^r
u
PARIIS.
[Gh. t
does fhis» must regret thi^t simi-
lar establishments are not general
throusrhout the World.
Halls au Bii, Ru^ de VtarmeSi
The Cupola of this Market, built
In 1782, by Molinds and Legrahd,
was three hundred and seventy-
Seven Paris feet in circumference,
and one hundred f^et in height : it
Gonsisted of wood, placed in a he-
mispheric form, and apparently so
shgnt, that it was impossible to con-
template this extraordinary piece
of architecture without wondering
how it held together. After stand-
ing twenty-two years, it fell a prey
to fire ; and to prevent the recur-
rence of such an accident, was re-
built with ribs of iron covered
by sheet-copper. The diameter of
this Cupola is only thirteen feet
less than that of the Pantheon at
Rome.
Halie aux Vins, Quai S, Ber-
n&rd. The ancient emporium for
wines having fallen to decay » Na-
poleon ordered the first stone of
the present building to be laid on
the 15th of August, 1813. This
immense Market is divided into
five streets ; one being called Rue
d^ Champagne; another. Rue de
Bourgogne ; another^ Rue de Bor-
deaux ; another. Rue de Langue-
doc ; and another, Rue de la C6te
d'Or. TheWine-Cellars are vault-
ed with hewn stone, and capa-
ble of containing four hundred
thousand casks ; the brandy-cel-
lars are vaulted with a new kind
of hoUow brick, about six inches
in length. The various edifices be-
longing to the Market are all sim-
ple and elegant; and the whole
displays a magnificence worthy of
its Projector.
Marckc d Id Volaillet ei au Oi"
bier. Nothing can be more elegant
of its kind than this Market, which
receives supplies of Poultry, Game,
(i) The 8tahi« of Hernr IV» whicb has t«-
centlv been re-erecred on one side of the Pont-
Ntufy spoils the eifbet of thd bridge. Napo-
Itoft nciAt to kAre rtlted, oa the 8p«t no#
&c. on Mondays, Wednesdays, a&d
Saturdays.
Of the fifteen Bridges which are
seen at Paris, the Pont-Neuf^
erected by Henry IV, is the long-
est^; the Pont de Louis XVI,
the boldest with respect to design ;
and the Pont des Art^, and the Pont
du Jardin des Plantes, the most re-
markable on account of their light-
ness, elegance, and arches of Iron.
The Pont des Invalides also merits
notice, on account of its cornice,
imitated from that which adorned
a temple, supposed to have been
dedicated to Mars the Avenger, In
the Forum of Nerva, at Rome.
Fontaine de I Esplanade du
Boulevard de Bondi, ^ The compo-
sition of this Fountain is simple ;
the execution good ; and the effect
produced by the water, falling in
sheets from basin to basin, parti-
cularly pleasing.
Fontaine des Innocens. This
fountain was erected in 1551, ac-
cording to the designs of Lescot
and Goujon; and afterwards re*
moved from its original situation,
added to, and placed in the centre
of the Marchk des Innocens, where
it now stands.
Fontaine de Grenelle, This
Work, executed by Bouchardon,
and erected in 1 739, is admired with
respect to the sculpture and archi-
tecture ; but so sparingly provided
with water as to destroy the effect
of the Fountain ; which is embel-
lished with statues representing the
City of Paris, the Seine, and the
Mame.
Fontaine de la Bastille, The
colossal Fountain which Napoleon
meant to have erected on the site
of the Bastille, remains, like too
many of his works, unfinished.
According to his plan, a semi-cir^
cular arch, thrown over the Canal
of S. Martin, was to have beed
6ectipi«d hf this Statue, as Obelisk of gra-
Bite above two hundred feet in heifht ; and
such an omament, so placed, would have beea
VeautlfuL
Ch.IJ
PARIS.
17
turmouttted by a Bronze Elephant,
mord than fteventy-two feet high>
including a Tower on the back of
the Animal ; whose Proboscis was
to have dispensed the water. A
lUll-sited plaster model of the Ele-
phant, together with models of
twenty-four Bassi-rili^in intended
to adorn the pedestal, may be seen
in a shed near the site of the Bas-
^e, by a personal application at
the Direction des Tfavaux des Ma^
humens Publici, No. 29, Rue de
tUnitmrnU,
Fontaine BgfpHennei Rue de
Sevres. This beautiful Fountain
was constructed in 1806. It exhi-
bits the Gate of a Tem{>le, the
(^ningof which forms a niche for
a statue of the Egyptian Antinous,
holding in each hand a rase whence
Water descends into a circular Ba-
sin, and then issues from the
mouth of a bronze Sphynx. An
entablature, which crowns the Edi-
fice, displays an eagle.
A colossal equestrian Statue of
bronze, representing Louis XIV,
in the costume of a Roman Em-
peror, has been recently erected in
the Place des Victoires.
Cimetiiree et Ca^acombeB, Pa-
ris presents no Burial-grounds
adorned with funereal monuments ;
the cause of Which seems to have
been, that the possessors of riches
and honours were entombed within •
the walls of consecrated edifices,
while the mortal remains of the'
poor were thrown into the vast and
common grave of the respective-
eemeteries; and even grudged a
Mttie earth as a covering. These
receptacles of corruption, by con-
stantly evaporating putrid air, pro-
duced epidemic m^adies ; and thus
punished the Living fbr their want
of piety toward the Dead: in! 7 73,
therefore* the Parliament of Paris
ordered the Cimetihre des Ifmocens^
the largest and most noxious of
these receptacles to be closed : and
soon after* all the cemeteries with*
in the City w«» riowd likewise v
thoufth pride and interest stiQ pro«-
duced burials in the churches. The
relics of the poor, however, were
transported^ without scruple, from
the ancient cemeteries into vast
and profound stone-quarries out-
side of the City : and, during the
Revolution, even the asylum of a
church did not preserve human
bones from sacrilege ; those which
belonged to the prince and the
peasant finding, in the stone-quar-
ries, a common ^ave. During
1804, the French Government em-
powered the friends of the De^
ceased to erect monuments to their
memory in the cemeteries ; a cir-
cumstance which quickly changed
the aspect of these chambers of
death. The handsomest, and by
much the most interesting cemetery
in the environs of Paris, is that of
P^re Lachaise; where lie united
Jews, Infidels, Roman Catholics,
and Protestants, forming one com*
mon dust. Near the entrance of
this Cemetery, on the right, is the
Tomb of Abelard and Heloisa,
which once adorned the Mus4e des
Monumens Franfais: and here
likewise are the Tombs of Molidre,
Lafontaine. Delille, Madame Cot*
tin, the Abb£ Sicard, Marshal
Massena, Marshal Lefebvre, 4^.
Near the Barrihre dEnfer, un-
der a spot called La Tombe Isoire^
is a Funereal Receptacle of another
description. Nothing above ground
announces this abode of melan*>
choly, which lies amidst vast stone
quarries, and is denominated The
Catacombs^ fi-om the resemblance
it bears to burial places so called
at Rome and Naples. Since the
year 1786, this spot has been
the receptacle for all the human
bones which, during several ages»
were accumulating in the cemete-
ries and suppressed churches of
Paris. A dark Staircase, just wide
enough for one person, and pene-
trating ninety feet under ground,
leads to the principal gallejy ; on
the right and left of which, ajre
28 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. [Ch. I.
Vaults of great extent: and that Sh>res. This village, which is
strangers may not lose themselves very near S. Cloud, contains the
in tms labyrinth, a black line is celebrated Manufacture of Porce-
traced on the roof, through the lain, long considered as the most
whole course they are to pursue, beautiful m Europe ; together with
Rocks jutting out, here and there, a collection of Ancient Pottery,
relieve the too great uniformity of Delft Ware, &c. &c. The Show-
this gallery ; which leads to ano- rooms of the Sevres Manufactory
ther, containing a model of Port axe open to the Public every day.
Mahon, made oy an old soldier Versailles, This is a fine Epis-
who worked in the quarries, and copal Town, four leagues distant
was, at length, crushed to death • fi-om Paris, land contains about
by an enormous stone, which fell twenty-eight thousand inhabitants :
upon him while he was forming a its Boyal Chdteau was despoiled
staircase. Picturesque and terrific and deserted, during the Revolu-
rocks next meet the eye, and lead tionary Government ; but is now
to a Vestibule ; at the end of which repaired. Its Ceilings merit nor
is a black door ; the entrance to a tice ; its Chapel, the last work of
eallery where millions of human Jules Hardouin Mansart, contains,
bones are placed in straight lines in the Vestibule, a fine basso-ri-
between the. pillars which support lievOy by Pvyet, representing Alex-
the'pondei;QUis roof of the cavern, ander and Diogenes. The Salon
This gallery leads to several Apart- dHercule is ornamented with two
ments lined with bones, variously paintings, by Paolo Veronese ; the
arranged ; and containing numer- Great Gallery is one of the most
ous Inscriptions : and above half magnificent apartments in Europe ;
a mile from the entrance to these the Orangerie contains a tree call-
Catacombs, is a portal through ^d ** Le grand Bourbon^"* yiYi\(i\i is
which visiters are conducted back more than four hundred years old ;
to the upper world ®. the Water-works are celebrated ;
Tlie environs of Paris contain a and the Bains dApollon contain
variety of objects that merit notice, some good Sculpture, by Girardon.
the most prominent of which are The Chateaux of Grand Trianon
the following. and Petit Trianon, (both in the
S. Clovd, The furniture of this Park,) are objects of curiosity ;
Royal Chateau, situated about two and the public Library of the town
leagues firom Paris, on the road to deserves attention.
Versailles, is splendid and ele^nt. Persons who visit Paris, at the
The Ceilings display fine paintings, present period, wiU find that al-
by Mignard; and some of the though it has gained much, since
Apartments are adorned with Go- the Revolution of 1799, in point of
belins, and Beauvais Tapestry, and wealth, convenience, and external
magnificent Porcelain Vases fi*om grandeur, it has lost much, with
the manufactory at Sevres. The respect to society ; there being so
Park of S. Cloud particuQarly me- great a difference in political opi-
rits notice on the three Sundays of nions among the Parisians, main-
September when a FSte is held tained, by each party, with such
there : and during these days the firmness, that social intercourse is
Cascades and Grand Jet d'eau play almost destroyed : indeed, the very
from three o'clock till five'. character of the People seems
(0 Wax-liehts for the Catacombs may be in the annals of France for the bloodless Re-
purchased at No. 90, Rned'Enfer. Strangers volution of the 18th Brumaire, (November
are accompanied by a Guide. 10th, 1799,) which placed Napoleon at the
(/) S. Clood will always be remarkable bead of the French Cfovemmfnt.
ROUTE TO THE SIMPLON.
de aeur by which they nere once the French N&tioti have need, at
distin^iahed, has given pl&ce to present, to depend on alms for
thoughtfulness, gravity, and re- their support. An universal spirit
serve. They have, however, paid of industry seems to pervade the
England the compliment of adopt- lower orders of society, not only
inshertaste,withres{)ecttolayintr in the Metropolis, but throughout
out gardens, shrubberies, &c. they France; and pleasure, even among
have likewise profited by her the upper rsinks of Parisians, is
SricultiiraJ knowledge ; and also no longer the sole occupation of
opted many of her modes of life. life.
Paris, like other parts of France, It would be uncandid not to add
has been cleared within the last to the foregoinjc remarks with re-
twenty-tive years, of that multi- spect to Paris, that this Town fur*
tude of importunate Mendicants mshes more conveniences for Tr«-
who, in former times, filled her Tellers than ai it
streets ; and, if we may judge by Europe.
SWITZERLAND, THE SIMPLON,
Uiseblcaa'-.ScnA—Joigny — A»tm — S t»l
FwuiKbluD— S, Bri>— aroltoei of Arc]
Lncy-le- Boil— Ronmj— Pai t.de-Piinr— II
ExcaniiA tsCblUIll»luulllhllUll^^Bluc1— DsHripdaBorUieMilitiirrRoul rroin nncri,
Ud OTir ths Simplon. u Uoma-d'OiKiU— Lien Msg^n—BaniHiMU lilsidi— ColgMtl
Statuii or S.'CarUi Bomimeii— DmripEion of the Roiid from Snts-CilniJc laUiUa—
Triumpli*! Arch LnMndM u a l*tinio»tion lo the Simplon-toii— Mil»o— DHcriplion of rhtt
City— MoniB—Lodl—Pimc mil— DsKTiplion o( Ihul Cily— Rttgift-MwIniB— Do«.iptioB
of OiatCitT— Culil-Fnnu— Bologiii— DncriptioB of (bit Citf uditi EsiiroiK— Stall ol
the Read betwoes Bolntna ud Pk]reiu»— VoIhihi Deu Pietruiila— CooDtry nnnd
PloniiH — Approach (a tbst Cilj.
Frow the latter end of May till the Seine not &r distant; traverses
commencement of October, the the Ecolle at Ponthierv ; passes
following Route, thtough Dijon, is through the Village or Cha^;
usually taken, by persons who, on and then enters the extensive Fo-
leaving Faria, wish to see the Mill- rest of Fontwnebleau ; than which
taiy Ro:
poleon,
Road, made by order of Na- nothing can be more picturesque,
on, over the Jura-Alps, and nor, in some parts, more gloomily
the Simplon, to Milan'. magnificent. On each side of the
Beyond Paris this Road crosses road are lofty grey rocks, clothed,
the Oree by a fine Brii^; passes eventotheir summits, with beeches,
through the Village of Essonne and other deciduous trees ; andthe
seated on the Juine, with the richnessof their foliage, contrasted
(■) B«tire« Aninmo ud PoliinT tb« ooe of Ibobett londi inPrMo.. n™""'*"
io>d i.. g.«c.Uj •pabnK, b«l .flcr » «.- ro>d. in Pnncr, ^r^'-^'^A^Ti^
tinuiK* of wtl weathMi IhoMh fnno tbo inM«Umcew.th IbMO »< SmiM""" ""
tettar rod of Uvf UU OeUber, it onallr I* ttalT-
dO FONTAINjEBUiAU-^SBNS, *c. [Ch, IL
ynih the rude and barren appear-? Agendieum, contains f leven thon<-
ance of the huge and shapeless sand inhabitants ; is seated at th^
masses of stone in which they vege- confluence of the Yonne and th«
tate, exhibits one of the most extra- Vanne, anjl ^loircled by handsome
ordinary scenes imaginable. About Promenades, and ancient Walls,
the centre of this singular Forest which deserve notice. Its Cathedral
stands the Town of Fontaine- is adorned with Hwe Fainted Glass j
bleau ; where the H6tel de la Ville namely, two Roses, the one repre-t
de Lyon is a comfortable, and not senting Heaven, th^ other Piu-gaf
an extravagant Inn, a circumstance tory ; (these are placed above th9
worth recollecting at a Place famed two side doors of the Church;)
for the rapacity of its innkeepers ^. and the windows in the Chapels of
The road, from Paris to Fontaine- S. Eutropius, and N. D. de l-o*
bleau, is paved, and well kept ; and retto, whjch were executed by J".
the Royal Chateau in the last men- Cousin. The Chapel of S. Savi*
' tioned town merits notice ; as it nien contains a^ excellent repr)^<»
contains, magiiiiicent Apa^ments sentation, in stucQO, .of a Curtain ;
beautifully Painted in Arabesque ; and in the centre of the Choir is a
splendid Furniture ; fine specimens Monument, by Coustou, erected to
of Sevres Porcelain ; and some the memory of the parents of the
few good Easel Pictures ; among present King of France, and em-
which is the blessed Virgin and In- bellished with Statues of Religion,
fant Saviour, S. John, and Ehza- Immortality, Conjugal Love, and
beth, by^Haphael. The Gallery Time* whose mantle covers the
contains a Sust of Henry IV, said Daupnin's Urn, and seems ineady
to be the best likeness extant of to envelop that of the Dauphiness ;
that great Prince ; and in the same she being alive when this monu-
apartment are busts o? Francis I, ment was begun. Thi^ cypregs
Sully, Washington, and the eele- wreaths are remarkably well exe-
brated Duke of Marlborough. In cuted ; and the statues of Time
this Chateau likewise is a Small and Religion are admired, espe-
Mahogany Table on which Napo-' cially the latter ; but the shape of
leon signed his Abdication ; and the monument wants elegance *.
still bearing marks of a pen-knife On quitting Sens the road crosses
it wa^ his custom, while thinking the Vanne ; and traverses a valley
deeply, to strike into the desk, or watered by the Yonne ; the grace-
table he wrote upon. ful sinuosities of which rivjer, com-
Fontainebleau is supposed to bined with the vineyards on its
contain nine thousand inhabitants, banks, greatly embellish this part
Beyond this town the road displavs of France. After passing through
scenery not unlike parts of the an avenue of iofiy poplars to Ville-
Pyrenees, as far as Fossard; neuve- sur- Yonne', (a pretty To'Wn
thence proceeding, bythe side of the containing a large, and judging
Yonne, to Villeneuve-la-Guiard *, from the outside, a handsome
Pont- sur- Yonne, and Sens; be- Church,) it proceeds to Villeval-
tween the two last of which places lier; and thence, through a bold
the country is rich in vineyards. and picturesque country, to Joi-
Sens, once the Capital of the gny ", anciently /ov^m'acww ; built
Sennones, and called by Csesar on each side of the Yonne, and
(K) The Grand Hdtel BritttnniquSt at Fon- some years sinpe a comfortable Inn ; bat is
taioebleau, is well spoken of. not so at present.
(0 A good Inn here ; The Hdtel de la (/) The Hdtel de la Pottey at Villenett7e-B^'
Souche. Yonne, appears to be a good ina.
(k) The best Hotel here is I' Ecu. Tie (m) A good laa here ; The H4tel dtt ea^
Hotel de France, formerly £a BouteilletWM Minatr^^
Ch. II.} JOmNY^AUXERRV; See, 91
jQined together by a haadsomQ Bris is Vermaaton*; twokaguet
ISridge ; the circumstance, perhaps, south of which, are the celebrated
from which it may derive its mo- Grottoes o/Arcy; and either from
dem name". The Chateau here, Vermanton,orthenextPost,(Luc};-
erected by Cardinal de Gondi, com* le-Bois,) it is practicable to visit
mands an extensive view; and the these Grottoes ; which contain fine
adjoining Church of S. Jean con- Stalactites ; but cannot be seen
taans a curious Sarcophagus ; on to advantage without the aid of
the cover of which is a recumbent torches ; and are, during winter, ftill
figure, apparently designed to re* of water, and at all times damp'.
present our Saviour; while, sur* Vermanton is seated on the right
rounding three parts of the Sarco- bank of theCure; and from thisTown
phagus, are statues which, owing to about one league beyond Luey«
to their situation, appear gigantic. le-Bois *, the road, unless very often
From Joigny the road proceeds repaired, becomes bad after heavy
through Bassou to Auxdrre", the ram. A New Branch, from Lucy-
ancient Autissiodorum, which is le-Bois to Avallon, has, however,
seated on the lefc bank of the been lately added to the road ; and,
Yonne, and contains twelve thou- though longer, it should always be
sand inhabitants : it stands, like preferred to the old route ; because
all the large towns in this part it is harder, and smoother. Hav*
of France, amidst wide-stretching ing passed Avallon S which is plea*
vineyards ; and but for the ex- santly situated on the banks of the
treme ugliness of Gallic architec- Cousin, and contains about five
ture, when uncorrected by Italian thousand five hundred inhabitants,
ta^te, might be called a handsome the road lies through an uninterest-
City. Its public edifices were ing country to Rouvray** thence
considerably injured during the proceeding, by the side of the
Revolution; its Cathedral, how- Cousin, and then crossing the*
ever, merits notice, and contains Serein, on the way to Maison*
fine Painted Glass. The ^Gothic neuve% and Vitteaux on the Bren-
Churches of S. Pierre, and S. nC, which contains two thou*
Germain, likewise deserve atten- sand inhabitants : from Vitteaux it
tion ^ as do the Quai-Cond6, the traverses a hilly country, embel-*
Quai-Bourbon, and the Prome- lished with vineyards, to La Cha*
nadesP. leur> called ** Mai nommie" from
The road between Fontainebleau being a very cold Place ; hence it
and Auxerre is paved in some proceeds to Pont-de-Pany, without
places, weD kept throughout, and displaying any object worth at-
peculiarly exempt from steep hills : tention, except a Chateau, once
out, between Auxerre and iS. Bris, magnificent, but now reduced to
it becomes hilly, and continues so ruins : and beyond this Ch&teaa
for several leagues. Beyond S. is pretty Alpine scenery, which
- («) ThreeVreat roads meet at Joigny, (one (r) A earrtage may be hired of the nost*
of which is the direct road to the Siuiplon,) ma«rer at Vermanton. to convey Travellpn
another cause perhaps of its modern name. to tlie Grottoes and back a^ain; for six off
(o) Here are gnotl inns, Le Leopard^ and eight francu ; according to the number of
V Hotel de Beaune ; the former is particu- persons conveyed,
larly comfortable; the latter very good. (s) Lucy-lc- Bois^ contains no inn except th€
(p) The vineyards of Tonnere and Aux&rre Post-house, which is very nncomfortable.
are celebrated for the qnali-ty of their fruit: ^ (t) Two inns, Le Lion d'Or^ audita Vill€
they contain about seventy-two thousand tie Dijon.
acredi, which produce annually, upon an ave- («) Inn, VHMel de la Poster and nemark-
rage, one million eight hundred thousand ably good. ^^
bottles of wine. This wine however is in- (t?) Inn, ia Po«*e, and tolerably gooa.
ferior to that of Chablis. (w) Im, La Potle, and good.
(q) VUdtel d4 S. mcholat bere i« a toUr^
ably good inn; and there are others.
32 DIJON— DOLE— POLIGNY. [Ch. II.
continues the whole way to the Mountains; and on entering the
Post-house* at Pont-de-Pany, a next Town, Genlis, passes, on the
Bridge thrown oyer the Ouche, right, a Chateau belon^ng to the
near the head of the Canal of Family of the Comtesse de Genlis,
Burgundy. Hence the road pro- so much distinguished in the li-
ceeds for a short distance between terary world by her writings for the
rocks and mountains ; and then use of young persons. Genlis is
traverses a fine country to Dijon, a pretty Village adorned with neat
This City, anciently Juibio, the houses, and a handsome Bridge
Capital of Burgundy, and sup- thrown over the Norge*. Hence
posed to contain about twenty-two the road . proceeds to Auxonne,
thousand inhabitants, is well situ- which contains ^ve thousand in-
ated between the rivers Ouche and habitants ; and where a new stone
Suzon ; but suffered so much from Bridge is now building*. A battle
tiie late Revolutions that few of was fought in this neighbourhood,
its pubUc edifices escaped injury ; between Napoleon's troops and the
except the spires of S. Beiii^e, Allies ; and bones of men and
and S. Jean, the former of which, horses were not long since suffi-
three hundred and seventy-five ciently discove]:able to mark the
Paris feet in height, is called the field of action,
finest piece of architecture of its The road is hiUy to the next
kind in Europe. The latter does Post, Dole; that Town, built on
not measure quite three hundred the Doiibs, was once strong ; but
Paris feet Since the restoration Louis XIV, demolished its fortifi-
of the House of Bourbon, Dijon cations : its College, one of the
has been repaired and improved: finest in France, its Promenade,
its Museum contains a fine Pic- called Le Cours, and the Canal
ture of the Holy Family, in of the Rhine, merit observation:
which the Mother of the blessed and near Dole are remains of the
Virgin is introduced ; a fine Pic- Ancient Roman Road which ex-
ture of the Magdalene at the foot tended from Lyon to the banks^ of
of the Cross; and several works the Rhine ^ On quitting Dole,
of the modem French School, the road passes over a fine stone
which outstep nature, and are. Bridge, recently erected ; and after
consequently, unpleasing. The crossing the rivers Doubs, Clause,
Promenade du Cours merits notice ; Louve, and Cuisance, and tra-
and on that Gate of the Town versing a long and beautiful avenue
which leads to Pont de-Pany is of poplars terminated, each way,
a Plaster Car of Victory, erected bv a bridge, arrives at Mont-sous-
in honour of the Boiu-bons ; but v audrey ; " thence descending, not
crumbling fast away. Commerce rapidly but almost constantly, to
appears to flourish at Dijon ; antf Poligny, amidst com fields and
wines, and eatables, are particu- vineyards.
larly good here : but the climate, Poligny is situated at the extre-
to persons who suffer from a cold mity of an extensive plain near
and cutting wind, is ungenialy. the source of the Glantine, and at
Soon after quitting this city, the the base of the Jura : it contains
road displays a view of the Jura- between five and six thousand in-
(*) The Post-house at Pont-de-Pany is a habitants ^ The road constructed,
"n^er^e^^rrseveral inns : the H6tel ,u p W «-' ^^ *'^o^^' ^'^*^'^' '^ ^^ ^»«' '^
rll^k^i rJfX^ f^ **"*'• I^ ^^^'^ *' '* (c)*Mont-80us.V8udrey is celebrated for de-
'r^ wll'^*'^"/.^!;^ ?T*?dt?>n, licUi white wine, calleJ Vin d'Arboii,
ffi f^^ "?"«£5w± ^Arf^'.r. 1 C«0 Here are two inns, VHdtel dc Qenhe.
/
/
Ch.II.] - JURA-MOUNTAINS. 33
by order of Napoleon, over the through wild and sublime scenerr,
Jura-Mountains to Greneva, com- the road reaches a romantic Vu-
mences immediately beyond Po- kge, called Maison-neuve* ; be-
ligny ; and presents notning likely yond which, to the left, among
to alarm IVavellers, so far as woods of peculiarly beautiful firs,
Morez ; but between that Town are rocks worth notice, on account
and Les Rousses it would be ren- of their whimsical shape. Farther
dered much pleasanter, and indeed on is another village, and a fine
much safer, by the addition of grazing country bounded by woods,
parapet walls. which extends to thePont-ae- Leme,
The base of the Jura is covered and S. Laurent**. The road firom
near Poligny with thorns, briers, Champagnole hither is excellent ;
goosebeny bushes, beech- trees, and, generally speaking, a graduid
and enormous rocks of granite, ascent: and the winter snow no
The commencement of the ascent sooner begins to disappear, in this
exhibits bold and beautiful Alpine country, man the heoges and pas-
scenery, together with a magnifi- turages are adorned with such a
cent view of the vast and fertile variety and profusion of beautiful
plains of France: while not far flowers as no other part of the
distant from Poligny are pictu- Alps can boast,
resque Ruins of a spacious Con- Quitting S. Laurent the road re-
vent, seated amidst rich vineyards, crosses the Leine ; and proceeds
and encircled by luxuriant woods, amidst cottages and pasturages to
Having reached the summit of the a Gallery cut through woods of
first ascent, and passed Boreau, beech and fir, and terminated bv a
where the rocks are strikingly fine, plain. Hence is a descent of five
the road traverses a comparatively miles to Morez, a considerable
tame country to Champagnole ; a Town, seated on the river Bienne»
Town of considerable size, situ- and close to a brawling torrent,
ated on the right bank of the called Le Bief de la Chaille, in a
Ain«. Much of this Town ap- valley so narrow as merely to ad-
pears recentiy built ; as do ttie mit two rows of houses and the
greater part of all the towns, vil- street which divides them ; while
lages, and pretty detached cottages, the surrounding mountains rise
on the Jura-Mountains^ At almost perpendicularly, like walls
Champagnole the road crosses the of a stupendous height, and g^ve
Ain; thence proceeding through Morez the appearance of being
a country adorned with rich pas- entombed in the lowest dell of the
turage, cottages, villages, and Alps. It contains some good
woods, to a magnificent Gallery, houses, together with twelve hun-
cut through the side of lofty rocks dred inhabitants ^
clothed with firs to their sum- Hence the road proceeds to Les
mits : opposite to this Gallery rise Rousses, by a steep ascent parallel
woods and mountains still more with a noisy torrent, and between
elevated ; and in a deep dell runs immense rocks, above which tower
a. torrent whose waters, at the the Mountains of Rezoux, and the
Bridge of Dombief, form a beau- Dole^, resplendent with snow ;
tiful Cascade. Continuing to pass while the near prospect presents
(e) Here are two small inns, The Hotel de Travellers might breakfast or dine; bat it ia
Qenevet and The Hotel de Lyon ; at either of not a sleeping place.
which Travellers might breakfast or dine ; (h) Inn, Iai Po$te^ and very comfortable,
but botb would be comfortless sleeping places. n) Inn, La Potte, and very comfortable.
C/) Champagnole, and its Manufactory for (*) The D61e rises 3948 Paris feet above
■pinning iron, were consumed by fire in 1798. the level of the Lake of Geneva 5 and is on«
and shortly after rebuilt. of the loftiest summits of the Jura-Aips,
(fi) Mftison-neaye contains an Iiut where
34 GENEVA. [Ch. II,
Alpine trees, shrubs and flowers, which bears its name ; and di-
This road, for some miles beyond vided into unequal parts by the
Morez, is too narrow to be per- Rhone. It possesses fewer public
fectly safe, either in the dark, or btdldings worth notice than al-
after heavy rain. Les Rousses most any other large cit^r of Eu-
contains the frontier Custom- roi)e : but this deficiencjr is coun-
house of France ; where, how- terbalanced by the fine views from
ever, on quitting that kingdom, its Ramparts, and the peculiar
IVavellers meet with no detention, richness and beauty of its envi-
From Les Rousses the road tra- rons ; which boast a considerable
verses severalvallies to La Vattay; number of handsome Villas, and
thence proceeding to Gex *, through a great variety of delightful walks,
a magnificent Gallery, which rides, and drives. The Public Li-
passes under an Arch hewn out brary, open every Tuesday mom-
of a granite rock ; and has, ing, from one o'clock tin three,
for near a mile, an Upper Gal- merits notice ; as it contains rare
lery, made to catch the earth and and curious Books, together with
stones which are continually fall* an ancient Roman Shield of SU-
ing from the more elevated parts ver, adorned with bassi-rUievi,
of the Alp. On the. descent stands and found in the bed of the Arve,
the Fbntaine Napoleon, bearing during the year 1721". The Hy-
an inscription almost obUterated. draulic Machine which supplies
This side of the Jura is embel- the fountains of the Town with
lished with luxuriant pasturages, water, likewise merits notice",
neat cottages, and fine woods of The Leman, or Lake of Geneva,
beech and fir, which clothe its anciently called Lemanus, is com-
summits : but what particularly ar- puted to be about nineteen leagues
rests the attention of Travellers, m length, and between three and
on descending toward Gex, is a four in breadth at the widest part,
prospect, abruptly presented to near Rolle : it abounds with fine
their view, of the Pays de Vaud, fish ; and its banks are said to be
the Lake of Geneva, and the stu- visited by forty-nine kinds of birds,
pendous Glaciers which surround ' The object generally thought
it. best worth notice in the immediate
Having passed Gex, and the vicinity of Geneva is Voltaire's
villa once belonging to Voltaire at Villa at Femey ; which house,
Femey, the road enters Geneva; since the death ofits first owner, has
crossing, in that City, two Bridges had many masters ; but they have
whose arches are bathed with the all deemed it sacrilege to change
waters of the Lake, which, under any thing ; and consequently the
the appellation of the Rhone, furniture remains the same as
continue their course through when he died. In the Hall is a
fiance to the Gulph of Lyons. large Picture composed by Vol*
Greneva, said to contain near taire himself, and executed by a
thirty thousand inhabitants, and wretched artist whom he met with
anciently a strong town belonging at Femey. In the fore-ground
to the Allobroges, is delightnilly stands this celebrated Poet, hold-
situated on the immense Lake ing the Henriade; which he is
([) Best inn, Les Balances. latter of which, the dinners are well served.
Cm) The Library belonging: to Paschoud, the beds good, and the charges moderate : but
h la grande Rwt No, S05, where most of the the smeUs in this house render it unplea*
European newspapers may be found, contains sant.
a laTge collection of books. The Hotel <FAnpletem, at Sechexon, about
(n) The best Hotels in the city of Geneva a quarter of a league from Geneva, is one of
are JLes BcUancesy and L*Ecu de Qeneve : at the tba most oomfortahle inns en the oontiaeat
Ch.IL] CHAMOUNL U
presenting to A^llo : ih the back- Persons desirous of seeing the
ground is the temple of memoiy, celebrated Valley of Chamouni,
toward /which flies Fame, at the together with as much of Mont«
same time pointing to the Hen- Blanc as is practicable during the
riade. The Muses and Graces are earfy part of Summer, should hh«,
surrounding Voltaire, and seem in at Genera, for three days, an open
the aot of carrying his Bust to the four-wheel earriages with ftrar
temple of memory : the heroes and horses, setting oiit, on the first
heroines of the Henriade are morning, at five o^clock, for 8.
standing astonished at his won- Martin, a drive of seven hours and
derfiil taints : the authors who a half p. The road to Chamouni,
wrote against him are falling into almost immediately beyond Ge-
the infernal regions; while Envy neva, enters 8avoy; and is smooth
and her progeny are expiring at and good. The ascents and de-
his feet. The faduly of Galas like- scents are mdual ; the country
wise is exhibited m this picture, abounds wim com, vinevards, and
The hall leads to a Saloon, oma- fixdt-trees; rosemary and barberry-
BEiented with a Bust of Voltaire, bushes growing in and near the
and a Design, in China, for the hedges; and meches mixed with
tomb of a lady supposed to have firs crowning ^e heights. At the
died in child-birth, but who was, distance of mdf a league flrom Ge*
in fact, buried alive : it represents neva the road passes through
the lady and her child bursting ChSne; and about one league
through the tomb; which is broken tother on presents a view of the
by the artist in so natural a man- Saleve, the Chetteau of Mourner,
ner, that one feels ready to ex- and the hiU andCh&teaaofEsery:
cl»m ; " What a pity it is that it then crosses the Menoge, a river
this beautiful monument has met which rises at the base of the
with an accident.'* In Voltaire's Voirons ; traverses the villages of
Bed-room are Portraits of his Nangy and Contamine, and passes
Friends, and the Vase wherein hiff near the towering ruins of the
heart was placed before its re- Castle of Fossigny. Travellers
moval to Paris. This Monument usually stop to bait their horsea
ia of black marble, plam, but neat ; and take refreshment at Bonne-
and immediately under that place ville ; the next village, or more pro-
which contained tiie heart, is perly speaking, the first Town on
written ; " Man esprit estpartouU this route, containing a consider-
ed tnon comr est iei, Over the able number of houses, and two
Vase is writtMi; ** Mes manes Inns; eiHier of which can ftnmish
8ont consols putsque man meur a good break&at and delicious ho^
est au milieu de t>ous .* allusive ney. Beyond Bonneville the road
(it is to be presumed) to the sur- crosses the Arve on a stone Bridge
rounding portraits of Frederic the five hundred feet long ; passing
Great of Prussia, Le Kain, (the through the small Town of Cluse,
French Roscius,) Catherine II, of and then traversing the delightful
Bussia, and Madame de Chastelet. Valley of Maglan, rich in com.
Tins room also contains Portraits vineyards, and firuit-trees, ena-*
of Voltaire, Milton, Newton, and mellied with flowers, and eneircled
other distinguished Characters. by enormous and fantastically
(«3 A Swiss cabtiolet, called a 6har-d- tion is uncli less fati^aing ffean a char^
hanCi ia a cMiyenknt carriage for this exeur- ha»e,
slon; because it can go the whole way to (p) The gates of Geneva are not op^^ed
Ohamoatii j which, a coach, or post-chaise, tiff a short time- before Bim-ri«e ; and they
onuot t teal » cwriime of tbe latter deiorip- are shut at ten o'clock in the fevemng.
D «
3d CHAMOUNI. tCh. II-
shaped Alps, crowned with woods Not far beyond S. Martin the
of beech and fir, and exhibiting road crosses the Nant Sauvage;
wild and picturesque scenery. The a dangerous torrent when swoln
Alps graoually increase in mafni- with rain : generally speaking,
tude as the road advances ; while however, the road, though rough,
the glens gradually become nar- is safe : but the aspect of the
rower. About three-quarters of country between S. Martin and
a league beyond Mr^lan, on the Servoz, particular spots excepted^
left, is a fine Cascade, called Nant is wild and gloomy ; though here,
d' Arpenas, faUing from a height of and indeed throughout this whole
eight hundred feet; and shortly excursion, the innumerable flowers, ,
aner passing this spot, the road intermingled with barberry and
presents a view of Mont-Blanc ; rosemary-bushes, eive life to the
which continues to exhibit its aw- scene. On approaching the village
ful and stupendous beauties , the of Ch^de the road crosses another
whole way to Chamouni. Leaving delicious plain, and passes through
on the right the town of SaUenche, several hamlets, which, in times of
seated near a noisy torrent at the civil discord, afforded shelter to
base of cultivated mountains, above the ancient Homans. The mag-
whose lofty summits rise pyramids nificent Cascade of Chede is about
of eternal snow, Travellers usually a quarter of a league from that
drive to S. Martin ; which is fur- Village : and the Lake of Ch^de,
mshed yvif}^ good Inn, The HStel situated near the road, though
de Mont'Blanc, containing a con- small is pretty ; and serves to re-
siderable number of beds, and fleet on its bosom the majestic
commanding a particularly fine summits of Mont- Blanc; which is
view of that part of the Mountain easily distinguished from its neigh-
denominated the D6me du GouU, hours by feng the only triple-
This Inn likewise contains a small headed monster among them.
Cabinet of Natural History for On approaching the beautiful
sale. valley of Servoz, it is impossible
^ IVom S. Martin, or the oppo- to contemplate without awe the
ate Town of Sallenche, to Cha- ruins of an Alp, which, in its fall,
mouni, is a journey of between six menaced this luxuriant spot with
and seven hours ; which can only destruction ; insomuch tnat the
be accomphshed by walking ; by inhabitants fled precipitately ;
riding on a mule, or by going in a though not quick enough to pre-
char-A'banc, TVavellers, there- vent some of their children from
fore, deposit their Geneva carriage being crushed to death : and the
and horses at S. Martin ; sleeping dust produced by rocks thrown
there; and usually proceeding next violently against each other, led
day, at a very early hour, to Cha- persons at first to imagine that
mouni. this terrific crash of nature pro-
The hire of a char-drbanc is ceeded from the eruption of a vol-
about eighteen frtincs per day : cano. Travellers usually break-
the hire of a mule about seven fast at Servoz ; a small Village,
francs ; and the fee to each Guide containing one solitary Inn, some-
six francs. The Guides, both at what like a hedge alehouse of
S. Martin, and at Chamouni, are England; but where good honey
civil, intelligent, and careful ; but, and eggs may be procured, and
nevertheless, their wish to gain likewise good coffee. Beyond this
money makes them sometimes per- village the road crosses a stream
suade Travellers to be adven- called the Servoz ; and then, after
turous. passing the Arve on a picturesque
Ch. IIJ CHAMOUNI. 37
Bridge, exhibits, to the ri^ht, ruins vellers are sometimes disappointed
of the Chateau de S. Michel ; and, on seeing it.
to the left, an Abyss^ where, em- The Botanist and Mineralogist
paled between rocks of the most may find ample amusement at
sombre hue, interspersed with fir- Chamouni : and here, as at S.
trees, flows the Arve ; forming Martin, there is, for sale, a Cabi-
a scene sublime even to horror, netof Natural History; containing
After ascending some way by the Minerals of Mont-Blanc and S.
side of this Ravine^ the road at Gothard, Seals, Necklaces, <^.,
length enters the far-famed Valley made of the crystal of Mont-Blanc ;
of Chamouni ; passing the 61a- together with Insects and Plants
ciers of Taconay, and Bossons ; indigenous to the higher Alps,
and presenting a distant view of The honey of Chamouni is excel-
the Glacier of Bois ; then travers- lent.
ing the torrent of N agin, the ham- Every part of the Valley presents
let of Ouches, the torrents of Gria, a view of Mont-Blanc : this gi-
Taconay, and Bossons, and like- gantic Alp, primeval with a world
wise the Arve, previous to reaching whose several changes it has auietly
Chamouni. witnessed, is said by Mons. de Luc
This town owes its existence to to be fifteen thousand three hun-
a Convent of Benedictines, founded dred and three English feet, and
in 1 099, by a Count of Geneva : by Mons. de Sausstte seventeen
but the Valley in which it stands thousand seven hundr^ Paris feet,
might probably have been unknown above the level of the Mediterra-
at the present period, if two Eng- nean sea ; and the crust of snow,
lish Gentlemen, Messrs. Windham on its sides and simimit, is sup-
and Pocock, had not, in the year posed to exceed four hundred feet
1741, discovered it; and given to in depth. The first persons who
modem Europe details respecting reached the top of this stupendous
a place which even the natives Mountain, appear to have been
of Geneva, though only eighteen Jacques Blamat of Chamouni, and
leagues distant, had never heard Doctor Paccard : they went in the
of. It is situated three thousand year 1 786 ; and were followed, in
one hundred and seventy- four feet 1 787, by Mons. de Saussiu'e, and
above the level of the Mediterra-t an English Gentleman. Dining the
nean sea ; and contains tolerably early part of Summer, it is almost
good inns *». impossible for any person to tread
■ The verdant clothing of the sin- in their steps ; or even to reach the
^ar Valley of Chamouni is beau- Montanvert ; which leads to the
tifuUy contrasted with cloud-capped Mer de Glace; the path, at this
mountains silvered by eternal snow ; season, being usually clogged with
gloomy forests, chiefly composed snow,, and at the same time threat-
of firs ; cottages and hamlets scat- ened by avalanches : but persons
tered here and there ; brawhng who ascend the Chapeau, a giddy-
torrents ; and rocks of porphyry ing eminence opposite to Montan-
and granite, interspersed with gla- vert, can see the Mer de Glacet
ciers of a dazzling whiteness ; although they cannot reach it.
whence rise sea-green pyramids of Travellers, in order to ascend the
ice which, when flluminated either Chapeau, should provide them-
by the sun or moon, exhibit a pro- selves with the customary walkin^-
spect unique and wonderful : but, sticks at Chamouni (which are six
nevertheless, so muchhas been said feet in length, with a sharp iron
in praise of this Valley, that Tra- spike at one end ;) they should then
(9) The new Inn is neat and comfortable.
98
CHAMOUNL
[Ch. II.
go in a t^r-drbane tiirough the
plain of Chamouni: but or ar-r
riving at the ascent to Uie Chapeau,
where the camage^road terminates^
it is necessary to go on:mules^ At
length, hpwever, the path becomes
so rug^;ed, and the ascent so very
steep, that riding is no longer prac-
ticable : and Travellers are conse-
quently compelled to dismount,
and walk, (aided by their Guides,)
on the edge of terrific preci-
pices, and through a path so ex-
tremely rugged, that nothing but
the spiked walking-sticks, with
which they are directed to pene*
trate the ground at every step.
eould prevent accidents. On at-
taining the wished-for height, the
Mer de Qlace presents itself to
view ; though not that part which
displays an unequal surface; but
the smooth margin, whence de-
scends an immense Glacier: and
having attained this height, the
Traveler should pause, a full half
hour, to listen to the noise of dis-
tant and near Avalanches, rendered
doubly audible by the stillness of
the scene; and likewise to con*
template the extraordinary appear-
ance of the Glacier, which can be
compared to nothing but a narrow
and tempestuous ocean, whose tow-
(r) PerMos who risit Chamouni at the pixy- and beine far more exalted than her attend-
per season for ascending the MontanverU ants, vei^' in the heavens, which she seems to
shonld engage careful and judicious guides ; prop, a part of her sublime and maiestlc beau-
•ad likewise hire a porter to carry cold pro- ties. From the AferdeO^oce Travellers usually
risions and wine. Ladies sometimes go part reascend the Montwuvert^ and dine either at
of the way in chaites-droorteur ; for each of VHopital de Blair^ or La pierre des AuglaU ;
which it is requisite to nave six chairmen ; an immense block of granite, so called be-
but good walkers had much better trost to cause Messrs. Windham and Pocock, in 17^1,
their feet. piade it their dinner-table, after they had pe>
, It being a work of full three hours to ascend netrated, without a guide, into these unknown
the Montanverty and then descend to the Mer i-egions. Hence is the descent to the Source of
4e Olacey it is advisable to set out from Cha^
mouni by seven in the morning. Fpr about
one league and a quarter, there is a safe mule*
road, passing tiirough forests of firs, which
exhibit traces of ancient avalanches, enormous
the Arveront through the Chemin det Ckemres ;
a short but extremely rugged path; on par-
suing which it is not uncommon to see ava-
lanches fall from the surrounding mountains,
and pyramids of ice tumble with a tremendouf
blocks of granite, and laige trees laid pro- crasn and roll to the bottom of Monianvert^
■trate; but on entering; a narrow and rugged, at whose base is the Sottrce of the Arveron ;
path, called Le Cheimn des CryttcUlierSy it is after examining which, TraveUers usually re-
no longer practicable to go on mules : here, mount their mules, and return to Chamouni.
therefore, these animals are usually sent back The inhabitants of this country are well-
to the Source of the Ameron. The view near looking, sensible, honest, and remarkably
s little Fountain, called le CcUUetf merits no- fearless. The woods are peopled with rab-
tice; as the Arve, in the plain beneath, ap- bits, white hares, martens, andermin98; the
poars,from this elevated spot, like a thread; rocks with marmots and the sagacious
the Bourr like card-houses; and the fields chamois. These animals live together ia
and meadows like the squares o^ » ehess- flocks : and generally feed in valleys where
board, or beds in a flower-garden, embellished no sportsman can penetrate ; while a few are
with various shades of green. Beyond this constantly detached from the main body a*
fountain the road is excessively steep and scouts ; and others perform the dutj of sen-
rugged, though not dangerous ; and after pass- tinels. The courage and agility with which
ing the Hdpital de BUur^ built by an English the chamois leaps from precipice to precipice,
Gentleman of that name, the Traveller is and scales rocks almost perpendicular, should
S resented with a sight of the Met de Qlace ; teach the boldest Alpine Travellers not to
) reach which, occupies a full quarter of an feel vain of their achievements,
hour; and persona who venture to walk upon Perscms who wish to vary their route back
its surface should be especially careful to io Geneva, may return by the Col de Balme ;
avoid the cracks and chasms with which it from whose summit the Valais, the Rhone,
abounds : the colour these chasms assume is the great and the small S. Bernard, the pas-
a beautiful sea-green ; and the waves of this sages of the Cenis and the tSimplon, S. Gothard*
frozen ocean, which from the top of Montan- and the Alps of Berne and Unterwalde, are
verf appear like furrows in a corn-field, are all discoverable ; while the sublimity of this
BOW discovered to be hillocks from twenty to extensive view is spreatly heightened by a
forty feet high. The Mer de Qlace is eight near prospect of Mont-Blano and her sur-
leagues in length, and one in breadth : and on rounding !Needles. Travellers who return by
its margin rise pyramidioal rocks, called Nee- Six, SamoCns, and Thonon, may embark upon
dies, whose summits are loBt in the clouds; the Lake, and proceed to Geneva: but going
they likewise are denominated the Court of all the way bj land, the distance is fifteea
their augnst Sorereign, Mont-Blanc; who leagues. *
glitters on the opposite side, ia stately repost {
Ch. n.J ROUTE TO THE SIMPLON/ 39
ering waTetf have been sudden}^ Thchion, the ancitot Capital of
rendered motionless, by an alL* the Duchy of Chablais, is plea*
powerful hand. santly situated: the Site of ita
The journey from the Hotel at Castle merits notice ; and at a
Chamouni to the CJutpeau^ and small distance from the Town ia
back again, occupies about three the Convent of Ripuille \ Hence
hours and a half. Persons, there- the road proceeds to Evian, cele-
fore, who make this excursion, re- brated for its Mineral Waters ;
turn late to Chamouni ; and after then crosses the Dranse on a long
having written their names and narrow bridge, apparently of Ro'-
their remarks in " the Travellers' man construction, and after pass-
Book,** which is a curious medley, ing within view of an old Castle
they usually rest a few hours, and surrounded by picturesque woods,
then set out very early next mom- conducts the Traveller to the brink
ing^for Geneva. of the Lake, shaded by walnut and
fVom Chamouni to Servoz, the chesnut-trees ; the Town of Morge
drive occupies about three hours being immediately op^posite, and
— ^from Servoz to S. Martin, three that of Lausanne within sight'
and a half— from S. Martin to Proceeding by the side of the L&e,
Bonneville, four — ^and from Bonne- the road reaches the rocks of Meil-
viUe to Geneva, three and a half, lerie "^ ; where it is cut through
The price charged for dinner masses of stone two hundred feet
at S. Martin, and Chamouni, is high, which tower, on one side,
five franes a head — ^for beds two above the Traveller, whilst, on the
francs each — ^and for breakfast^ other, rise two wsJls; ibe first
two francs and a half per head '« serving as a parai)et, the second
The Military Koute, leading from strengthening the foundations of
Greneva to the Simplon, passes theroad, and preventing them from
through Cologny, traversing a rich being injured bv the Lake, on the
plain, boundS Dy the Jura-Moun- bed of which they rest. Near S.
tains on the ri^ht, and the Lake Gingouph a Gorfi;e in the moun-
of Geneva, with its stupendous tains, discovers the Source of the
glaciers, on tiie left ; and after Amphion ; whose mineral waters,
crossing a Bridge, which marks already named, enrich Evian. Ve-
the limits of the territory of Ge- vay is seen on the opposite shore,
neva, enters Savoy; displaying a S. Gingouph belongs to the Va-
view of a finely situated old CastlCi lius; and the Post-house, (a good
and likewise of Mont-CenUy and inn) is delightfully situated near the
great part of the lofty phain to termination of the Lake, where it
which that gigantic Alp belongs, loses itself in the Rhone. Imme-
Beautiful landscapes, formed by diately beyond S. Gingouph, are
the Lake of Geneva, the Pays de pretty Streamlets, which, as they
Yaud, and the plains of Savoy, trickle down the rocks, form them-
l^esent themselves on the way to selves into crystallizations : and
Thonon; whither the road winds between the next Post (Vionnaz)
through a country abounding with and S. Maurice is a Wooden
com and vineyards ; while the Bridge, curiously constructed, with
bold and varied outline of the a Roof, and thrown over a pecu-
Alps, gives peculiar grandeur to liarlynois}^ and rapid torrent; soon
the scene. after crossing which, the road pre-
(») From Chamouni to Martigny there is a (0 Inn at Thonon, La Balances, and, as a
mnle-path nine leagues in distance, which sleeping place, not eomfortable.
leads to the arandS. Bernard. («; A tish, caUed the Lotte o/Moitlene, is
much admired by Epiwres.
40 ROUTE TO THE SIMPLON. [Oh. II •
sents a view of the Rhone, adohied in no way get thither but by leap-
with bold overhanging rocks, and ing, or rather flying upward. Not
shaded by rich foliage ; while in far distant from the Pissevache is
. the fore-ground rises a magnificent the Pont du Trient, where a Ri-
Stone Bridge, two hundred feet vulet issues from a remarkable
long, and constructed by the Ro- Chasm between two Rocks ; the
mans. At one end of this Bridge sides of which, thus divided by the
is a Tower, now converted into a stream, are quite perpendicular, and
Chapel ; and at the other end a nearly twelve hundred feet high.
Castle, through part of which the Martigny, seated at the entrance
road to S. Maurice has been cut, of the Great Valley of the Rhone,
and made to pass over a Draw- where the roads from France,
bridge. S. Maurice stands in a Italy, and Chamouni meet, was a
wild and beautiful situation, at the well-built and flourishing Town,
base of a long line of rocks ; some till nearly destroyed by a sudden
of which are formed into habita- and dreadful inundation of the
tions : this Town contains a cu- Dranse ; which occurred not long
rious Mosaic Pavement ; and not ago. Liberal subscriptions, how-
far hence the Theban Legion was ever, from the benevolent inha-
massacred by order of the Empe- bitants of the neighbouring coun-
ror Maximian '. tries, have enabled the people of
The first part of the road be- Martigny to re-build several of
tween S. Maurice and Martigny their houses, which were thrown
presents no striking objects, except down and swept away ; and like-
the Dent du Midi, and the Dent wise to repair other ravages cause4
de Morcles; two Alps which rise by the inundation. There is an
seven thousand feet above the old Fortress here, separated from
level of the Rhone ; and at a dis- the Town by the Dranse ; which
tance Mont- Velan, and Mont- issues from the adjacent mountain
Valsoray, which make part of the of S. Bernard, and unites its wa-
group of the Grand S, Bernard, ters with those of the Rhone near
and rise more than ten thousand this spot. The Valley of the
.feet above the level of the sea. Rhone is the most extensive in
Amidst this Alpine solitude, the Switzerland ; as from the Alps of
road passes the bottom of a mag- La Fourche, where it commences,
nificent Cascade, called the Pisse- to the Lake of Geneva, where it
vache, and formed by a river, (the terminates, is thirty- six leagues.
Salanche,) falling from an im- Two excellent Wines are made
mense height, though not above near Martigny, the one called
an hundred feet perpendicularly. Coquempin, and the other La
This Cascade is illummated in the Marque : a great variety of rare
forenoon by the sun ; and displays Plants may also be found in this
all the colours of the rainbow ; neighbovu-hood ^, The commence-
but after twelve o*clock these ter- ment of the road between Mar-
restrial rainbows cease ; while the tigny and Sion is bordered by ste-
river seems transformed into a rile rocks and mountains ; but the
brilliant sheet of gauze, with which face of the country soon changes,
it veils the rocks from whose sum- displaying pasturages, vineyards,
mits it rushes. Report says that, villages, rivers, picturesque ruins
at the top of this Cascade, are fre- of ancient castles, and distant Alps
quently found trout, which could blanched with eternal snow.
(v) S. Maurice contains a remarkably good arande Maisotit and Le Cygne; the latter to*
inn« VHbtel de V Union. lierable.
(w) There are two inns at Martigny, La
Ch. II.J ROUTE TO THE SIMPLON. 41
Sion, anciently Sedunwn^ and Rhone, traverses the Forest of
in German, Sttten, the Capital of Finges, passes the Town of Leuck;
the Haut-Valais, and built partly (behind which, opens the Gorge of
on the right bank of the Rhone, the Dala, and part of the lofty and
and partly on the river Sitten, is a sterile Mont-Gemmi ;) and tnence
very oldr Swiss Bishoprick; and proceeds to Tourtmagne; the
contains several Convents, six approach to which displays a view
Churches, a Hospital, and an Ho- of the whole chain of Alps cen-
tal de ViUe. The Town stands on necting the Simplon with S. Go-
the declivity of three hills ; each thard : but the country, as the
crowned by a Castle ; in the lower- Valley narrows, becomes marshy
most, called Mayoria, or Meyer- and barren. Within half a mile of
bourg, the Bishop usually resides : Tourtmagne *, thouffh not in the
the second is denominated Valeria; high roaS, is a Water-fall, less
and the third, called Tourbillon, magnificent than the Pissevache^
contains portraits of all the Bishops but more beautiful in point of si-
of Sion since the year 300. Se- tuation. From Tourtmagne the
veral Roman Antiquities are dis- road proceeds to Viege, (in G«r-
coverable in this town ; among man Visp, or Vispacky) standing
which, and near the great door of on the banks of tne Visp, a river
the Cathedral, is a half-effaced equal in size with the Rhone ; and
Inscription in honour of Angus- beyond a bridge thrown over the
tus *. Above Sion, to the right, Visp towers the summit of Mont-
and seated on rocks difficult of Rose^ an Alp very little inferior
access, are the Castles of S6on in height to Mont-Blanc. From
and Montorges ; objects particu- Viege Travellers usually go to
larly calculated to attract the Brigg ; for though Glys is the re-
attention of a Landscape Painter : ^lar Post, Brigg, a Post-town,
and on the opposite side, in the likewise, is the better place to
Commune of Brumes, is a singu- stop at, and not more than half a
lar Hermitage, comprehending a mile out of the great road. Per-
Church and Cloister, with several sons who go from Viege to Brigg
Cells, all hewn out of a solid rock, pass Gambsen, and the entrance
Near Sion flows the river Merges, to the Valley of Nantz ; crossing
which divides the Haut from the a torrent, called the Saltine, near
Bas-Valais. Through the former which, the country is marshy;
the road proceeds to Sierre, one of and then traversing the bed of the
the prettiest Bourgs of the dis- Rhone on the way to Brigg*, (or,
trict ; but its inhabitants are par- as it is sometimes spelt, Bryg,)
ticularly liable to goitrous swel- one of the handsomest Towns of
Hngs ; owing, it is said, to the the Haut-VaJais, and situated op-
unwholesomeness of the water posite to the base of the iSeVwp/on ;
they drink '. German is the Ian- the lower part of which is covered
guage spoken at Sierre, and with luxuriant meadows, inter-
throughout the Haut-Valais, Be- spersed by fruit and forest-trees,
yond Sierre the road crosses the oratories, and cottages ; while the
(x) Le Lion d'or is a good inn ; and La strain, given to the throat, by an over-bnrden
Croix Blanche, though less good, is tolerable, carried on the head.
(w) Women, who carry heavy burdens on (x) In German Turtmann. Here are two
their heads, are generally afflicted with this inns, Le Lion d'or^ and Le Soleil ; the former
malady ; not only in the neighbourhood of of which, though small, is clean and com-
the Alps, but in other situations, where the fortable. .
heirht of the mountains is comparatively (o) The Hotel tTAngleterre, at Brigg, m «
moderate : and probably, therefore, goitrous comfortable inn.
swellings may sometimes originate from a
42 PASSAGE OF THE SIMPLON- [Ch. II.
heights are adorned with her- out of solid masses of granite, is
mitages, cascades, and woods of five : and so gradual, on both
fir. sides of the mountain, is the in-
To the left of Brigg is the pretty dination of the road, that to drag
Village of Naters, watered by the the wheels even of heavy car-
Rhone, which descends from the riages is needless. The work
sununits of the Fourche and the was conducted on the side of the
sombre vallies of the Axe. This Haut-Valais by French Engineers ;
river receives, in the vicinity of and on the Italian side by the Ca-
Brigg, the waters of the Saltine ; vahere Giovanni Fabbroni* ; who,
which issue from the Simplon ; though long distinguished for de-
together with those of Kelchback, voting his eminent abilities to the
which descend from the Bellalp service of his country, in this in-
and the Blatten. The adjacent stance exceeded himself; as be-
mountains abound with deep dells : sides other fearful impediments,
and to the north rise the rocks of he had great difficulties to sur-
Nesthom, and part of the upper mount, even in the soil ; for he
Glacier of Aletsch. was compelled to pierce through,
In order to appropriate an en- and blow up, some of the hardest
. tire day to the passage of the rocks existing; while the French
Simplon, anciently called Mons Artificers, generally speaking, met
Ccepionisy or Sempronii, and one wilh no obstacle, except masses of
of tibe loftiest of the Italian Alps, slate, in many places already de-
Travellers usually sleep at Brigg ; composed *. This is the only
and set put, witni the dawn, next passage of the Alps which human
morning. The journey, either labour has made practicable for
from Glys, or Brig^ over the heavy ammunition-waggons and
Simplon, to Domo-D'Ossola, a artillery : and when we contem-
distance of fourteen leagues, com- plate the stupendous height of the
monly occupies about twelve Simplon, the numerous and ap-
hours. This Passage of the palling precipices with which it
Alps, planned by Napoleon, in abounds, the impetuous torrents
1801, was finishea in 1805, at the which deluge its declivities, and
joint expense of the kingdoms of the tremendous avalanches by
France and Italy*: its breads which woods are frequently rooted
throughout is twenty-five Paris up, and rocks overthrown, we
feet ; the number of Bridges thrown cannot but acknowledge that men
across the rocks is fifty ; and the who, in defiance of obstructions
number of Grottoes, chiefly hewn such as these, could form a road
(It) The AntfaoT of this Work has passed from German Switzerland and the Hant-Va-
the' Simplon three times ; namely, in May, lais into the Milanese, it has always been the
1817; in Jane, 1819; and in October, 1884; track pursued by the Milan Courier; thourh
twice trayeUing en voUwrier, and once goiof frequently at the peril of his life : for the
Post : and the number of hours employed in earthquake of 1755, which destroyed Lisbon,
erossinK this Alp, was each time tne same, nearly blocked up this passage of the Alps ; ,
From Brieg to the Barrier the asoent occu- so Uiat Napoleon found it needful to employ '
pied nearly six hours; and thence to Porno three thousand men, between three and four
D'Ossola the descent occupied about fiye years, in constructing the new road,
hours and a half. From Domo D'Osiiola to the (cO To this gentleman Florence owes the
village of Simplon the asoent occupied seyen celebrated anatomical wax-work, which en-
hours ; and thence to Brigg the descent occn< riches Uie Museum of Natural History in
pied nearly five hours. that city; though the inyention was ascribed
The most favourable season for passing the to the Gay. Fontana.
Simplon is between the middle of June and (e) The quMitity of gunpowder used in
the end of October. During winter, car- blowing up the roeks^ to form the road on the
riayes are usually dismounted, and put into Italian side of the Simplpn, is said to baye
traineauXf if the snow be deep. been 17f50O ponndi.
(c) As this is the shortest practicable route
Ch. II.J PASSAGE OF THE SIMPLONl 43
exempt ereii from the appearance are small Inns, meant to shelter
of dai^er, capable of braving the men, cattle, and carriages, in case
most FLirious storms, resisting the of sudden storms, and numbered*
^ant hand of Time, and conduct-* " Ist Refuge,** '* 2d Refuge," &c.
mg human beinjj^s, cattle, and an appellation particularly well
everv kind of carha^, quickly and chosen, as its meaning is the same
safely, through regions of eternal in almost every modem language,
snow, deserve, in point of genius. The openings of the finrest, and ue
to be ranked hot only wiUi, but sinuosities of the road, present
even above the ancient Romans; beautiful views of the Valley of
whose YTQiks of this description the Rhone, encircled by snow-
can, in no instance, vie with the crowned Alps ; their gigantic Em«
descent from the village of Sim** press, Mont- Blanc, proudly tower*
plon to the vale of Domo-D*Os- mg above them all ; and, in con^*
sola : and yet, to the shame of the sequence of her immense height^
nineteenth century, nations inimi* appearing near, though really far
cal to France attempted, at the distant. Beyond the second Re*
close of the last war, to destroy fuge are fine Cascades, and what
the parapet walls, and bum the is called, the first Gallery; though
bridges ; in short, to annihilate in fact the whole Passage mi^t
the road : happily, however, these properly be denominated a con-
acts of barbarism have hitherto tinned series of serpentine galleries
done no very material mischief; and grottoes, rising one above ttie
but unless the Glacier Gallery, other, and united by stupendous
and grotto, together with the ad* arches of the most chaste and ele-
jacent heights, be cleared of snow, gant construction. Beyond the
toward the commencement of every first Gallery is a Bridge, eighty
summer, uid the water-course» feet in height, thrown over the
kept open, (as was the practice Kanter ; ana so built that it cannot
during the reign of Napoleon,) receive any injury from the annual
this eighth wonder of the workl, melting of the wmter-snow ; there
this universal benefit to Europe, being, at certain distances, cavi*
will ultimately be rendered useless^, ties, through which the water dis->
Travellers going from Brigg, charges itself, without hurting the
pass, on the right, one of the &si work : and the same judicious plan
worics of the Passage of the Sim- has been pursued with respect to
plon, a Bridge thrown over the Sal- all the arches, parapets, and found-
tine ; and consisting of a lofty and ation-walls. This part of the road
beautiful single arch, covered at is cut through crumbhng rocks;
the top, to preserve from rain the and in order to prevent the loose
timber of which it is composed : fi-agments above from falling upon
they likewise pass, on the left, a the Traveller, broad Galleries are
Chapel, with several small Orato- made in the upper part of these
ries leading to it ; and then ascend, rocks, to catch whatever may be
by bold and beautiful windings, thrown down by tempests, oas-
through a gloomy forest of firs, to cades, and avalanches ; while the
the first and second Refuge. These road itself is supported b)r a strong
edifices, placed at short distances Wall of granite, varying in height,
from eacn other ih the most ex- according to the inequs^ties of the
posed situations on tiie Simplon, ground it rests upon, and in some
(/) In conseqiiMiM of the snaw'not haTinr of June, 1395; and some TraTsUera who
l>eeB cleared away «t the oommencemeBt ol trere going post through this Orotto, at the
summer, a gmall Avalanche fen from the moment, narrowly escaped being crashed to
heights near the Qlacier Orotto on the sixth death.
44 PASSAGE OF THE SIMPLON. [Ch. II-
places measuring two hundred feet, to the Village of Simplon, throujgh
On the left of the Bridge thrown a dreary country studded with
over the Kanter is. a particularly blighted firs, and watered by fine
fine Cascade ; beyond which stands Cascades and a brawling torrent ;
the third Refuge ; where Travel- one part of which, flows into
lers, in case of necessity, might Italy; the other irrigates France,
sleep. This part of the road ex- by forming a ramification of the
hibits larches mixed with firs, Rhone.
two Bridges, (those of Oesback and Simplon^ a little hamlet encircled
the Saltine,) and a Grotto thirty by the summits of the enormous
paces in length; to the left of which Alp whose name it bears, is situ-
is the Glacier of Kaltwasser ; ated three thousand two hundred
whence descend four Cascades, and sixteen Paris feet above the
whose waters are conveyed under level of the Mediterranean sea ;
the foundations of the road (in but neither here, nor even while
Aqueducts of a masterly construe- passing the Glacier Grotto, and the
tion) and then precipitate them- heights beyond it, (which are four
selves into chasms below. thousand six hundred and ninety
Continuing to ascend, through Paris feet above the level of the
easy, bold, and beautiful sinuosi- Mediterranean sea,) do Travellers
ties, the road reaches the fifth Re- often suffer fi^om cold : and even
fuge ; which stands on an eminence, during bleak and stormy weather,
exposed to violent gusts of wind, the Simplon may be crossed with
Here trees cease to flourish ; impunity ; so well sheltered is this
flowers no longer enamel the soil ; wondernil Passage,
and an Avalanche has rooted up The commencement of the de-
the blighted firs and larches, and scent to Domo-D'Ossola displays,
suspended them on each other over on each side, lofty and barren
the yawning abyss beneath. A rocks, with a considerable space
long and dreary Gallery leads firom between them, occupied by pas-
this picture of desolation to the turages and stunted firs, and wa-
Glacier Grotto, fifty paces in tered by the same impetuous and
length ; immediately beyond which noisy torrent which is seen firom
is me most elevated point of the the heights : but not far distant
whole passage. Here only* that is, from the Village of Simplon these
previous to entering, and after hav- rocks graduafiy approach each
ing quitted, the Glacier Grotto, the other ; becoming perpendicular,
road is less good than in other and scarce leaving sufficient space
places ; not, however, owing to for the road ; which, by means of
any radical imperfection, but Bridges, is carried over the Lowi-
merely because the Cantonniers back, and Kronback, till it reaches
neglect to clear away the snow «. Steig ; where the union of the
At a short distance fi*om the Gla- Kronback and the Quima, (which
cier Grotto stands the sixth Refuge, descend the Glacier of Lavin,
called The Barrier;, below which, through a Gorge in the rocks to
on the right, is the ancient Hos- the right,) form the river Vedro,
pice, now peopled by Monks be- whose wil^ and i^pid course the
longinff to the Grand S. Bernard, road follows till within a short dis-
From the Barrierthe road descends tance of Domo-D'Ossola. After
(jf) The CantonnierSj instituted by Kapo- Voitariers p&T ten francs per horse.
leoQ to keep this route in repair, hare been (h) The viUage of Simplon is celebrated for
cruelly reanced in number by the King of delicious trout; and contmns a yery good inn,
Sardinia; although the tax, imposed for their The Pott-house,
maintenaace, is still paid at the Barrier.
Ch.II.] LAGO MAGGIORE- 45
passing through a ver^ narrow hovr, and at others foaming into
ravine, and crossing the river seve- gulphs, which can only be com-
ral times, by means of stupendous < pamL with the Chaos of Milton,
Bridges, the road is carried through and the Inferno of Dante. This
a Grotto eighty paces in length ; awful and appalling Gorge extends
beyond which is the magnificent to Divedro ; a place said to stand
Cascade of Frissinone; whose at the height of one thousand seven
waters precipitate themselves from hundred and eightv-two Paris feet
a rock so loftv that they seem lost above the level of the Mediterra-
in aether beiore the^ reach the nean sea ; but situated on a fer-
foamingbedof theVedrOyWhichre- tile, and indeed a pleasant spot,
ceiyes them. After passing this Cas- notwithstanding^ the savage aspect
cade, the road eilters anouer Grot- of the mountams by wruch it is
to, — a stupendous work, — ^it being encompassed K From Divedro the
two hundred and two paces lon^, road descends into another wild
lofty in proportion, and cut, wiui and narrow Glen, called Val- Vedro,
exquisite taste and skill, through crossing the torrent twice, by means
solid rocks of granite. On emerg- of Bridges, and then passing
ing from this Grotto, a sudden turn through the last Grotto, (eighty
in the road presents another mag- paces in length ;) and proceeding
nificent Cascade, formed by a tor- to Crevola, where it again crosses
rent, which issues from the Gorge the Vedro by a Bridge, considered
of Zwischbergen, falUng perpen- as a master ^piece of architec-
dicularly, and with such clamorous ture. On the approach to Domo-
violence, close to the traveller, D'Ossola, the rocks and mountains
that no person can witness this gradually recede ; giving place to
scene without feeling, for a mo- villages and vineyards ; wnile the
ment, as if it would be impossible to rich, extensive, and highly culti-
proceed. Below the gloomy ham- vated plains of Italy present them-
let of Gondo is a chapel, which selves to view, and form a delight-
marks the Italian confine ; and at ful contrast to the sublime and
Isella, a little beyond the chapel, terrific scenes exhibited in the de-
is a Milanese Custom-house ^ scent from Simplon.
After quitting this sombre hamlet. After sleeping at Domo-D'Os-
ai\d passing fturough a small Grot- sola, which contains good inns ',
to, the ro^ enters the still more Travellers usually pursue the great
sombre Gorge of Isella, empaled Military Road to Baveno, on the
by perpendicular mountains, from Lago Maggiore ; embarking there,
whose summits fall Cascades ca- in order to visit the Borromean
pable of deluging the road, were Islands, on the way to Milan ".
they not conveyed, by means of The Lago Maggiore, some-
wells, into the bed of the Vedro ; times called Lago Locarno, and
which, swoln and agitated by these anciently Verbanus, is reputed
tributary streams, rushes furiously ' to be about fifty- six Italian
through enormous fragments of miles in length; about six in
dissevered rocks; sometimes ex- breadth; and, toward the centre,
hibiting all the colours of the rain- about eighty fathoms deep. The
(0 The Cttstom-house oi&cers here exp^eet («) Boats are always in waiting at Baveno
two or three francs per carriage ; on receiving to convey Travellers to the Borromean I slands,
which, they never examine trunks. and the Lake of Como : the price of a boat for
Ck) Divedro contains a wine-house ; and in the former expedition beinfj four livrea per
other parts of the descent are Refuges, which rower; and the time requisite for seeing the
miffht, in case of necessity, shelter Travellers. IsUnds about five houra. . ♦«i««v,
CO The Hotel d« la VUle, and the UUel The Post-kouie, at Baveno, w a tolerably
46 BORROMEAN ISLANDS. [Ch. H.
picture presented by this Lake is From Isola Biella^ Travellers
. enchanting ; its banKs are adorned usually embark for Sesto-Calende ;
by forest- trees, olives, and vine- landing, however, by the way, at
yards ", interspersed with hamlets, Arona ; and then walking about
white as snow, and enriched Vdth three quarters of a mile, through
ViQas remarkable for the elegance a lovely country, to see the cele-
of their construction : on its sur- brated Colossal Statue of S. Carlo
face rise three small Islands; Borromeo; which was executed
two of which, Isola Bella, and in bronze by Zonelli, measures
Isola Madre, contain palaces and an hundred and twehre feet in
gardens belonging to the family of height, reckoning the pedestal,
. Carlo Borromeo: the tmrd, and is erected on a hill, which
Isola Pescatori, is inhabited chiefly overlooks Aronli, the birth-place
by fishermen. Isola Madre, situ- of S. Carlo ; who is represented
ated about half a league from the as ^ving his benediction to the
shore, consists of four gardens, or Manners of *the Lake. This is
rather terraces, rising one above one of the tallest statues now
the other, embellished with luxu- existing in Italy ; and so gigantic
hant flowers, shrubs, and forest- are its dimensions that the head
trees ; and crowned, by a palace ; • alone would hold four persona
which contains Landscapes by seated round a table '•
Tempesta*. At Sesto-Calende Travellers re-
Isola Bella, about one mile dis- join their carriages, which go by
tant from Isola Madre, consists of land to Belgirata' and Arona, and
eight terraces, rising one above the then cross the Ticino in a pont-vo*
ottier, carpeted witti flowers, re- lant, at the entrance of the &st
freshed by fountains shaded with named Town. Sesto is beautifully
forest-trees, and crowned with a situated on the Ticino, at the com-
noble Palace ; which contains mencement of the Plains of Lorn-
Paintings by Tempesta; a flne bardy; and persons who like wat^-
Bust of S. Carlo Borromeo, by carriage may go from this Town^
Franchi ^ ; and a suite of Subterra- or even from Fariolo*, to Milan,
nean Apartments t&stefidly fitted in the boats of the Lago Mag-
up, to nnitate a series of Grot- giore^ The Military B^ad pro-
toes ; and, for a summer abode, ceeds through a dehgntfiil country
delicious^. to Somma ; passing, on the left, a
(n) The vines here are freouentlj trained Island, return to the Great Road, drive to the
round trees, the branches of which are so dis- foot of the hill adonied with the statue of S.
posed as to resemble baskets. Carlo Borromeo, walk np the hill to examine
(o) Tempesta, after having: murdered his the statue, and then pursue the Great Road to
wife, in order to marry a prettier woman, took Sesto. The Bridges thrown over the torrents,
refttffe here. the imnaense number of Aqueducts which con-
(p) S. Carlo Borromeo is universally ac- vey streams of water under the foundations
knowledged to have been a peculiarly benevo- of the road into the Lake, and the massive and
lent CharActer; one of his family, was as lofty Walls which at once secure the road,
^notoriously wieked : and the rest, though and prevent the Lake from overflowing, are
worthy, in the common acceptation of the well wocth notice; and cannot be seen by
word, were not in any respect distinguished ; persons who embark at Baveno, and proceed
a eircnmstance which occasioned the follow- by water to Sesto
ingremark— •' That one Borromeo belonged {$) Belgirata oontains a good inn, L* Alber-
to Heaven, another to Hell, and the remainder go Borromeo.
to E"th-" , . . , , (Q The first Town on the Lago Maggiore.
(a) This Island contains an Inn, famished («) Public boats go from Sesto to Milan
with clean beds ; and where good dinners may every morning, between the hoan of five and
be procured, at four francs a head. seven, and take passengers at one paul a
CO Instead of embarking at Baveno for the bead. Private boats, large enough to contain
Borromean Islands, Travellers frequently pur- a carriage, may be hired at Baveno for twenty-
sue the great Military Road to a ferry, not far eight, or, at most, thirty fraoes, .to go down
distant ; cvoss tkenc« to Isola Bella, a very tlN Lago Magf^ore ta Sflsto*
short Toyage; and, after having seen that
Ch. II.] MILAN. 47
Cypress-tree of extraordinajymaff- highly creditable to the talents of
nitude ; and, according to traoi- Cagnola, under whose orders this
tion, planted before the Christian work was begun,
era. Scipio*s first battle with Han- Milan, in Italian Milano, and
nibal took place near Somma. anciently denominated MeMola*
Hence the road passes through nvm, (supposed to have been
GaUarate and Cassina-Buon-Gresu founded by the Grauls, five hun-
to Ro; presenting nothing worth dred and ninety years before the
notice, except the Church ofNos- Christian era,) is seated on a pe-
tra Signora de^ Miracoli, at the culiarly fertile spot, between the
last mentioned place. The inside rivers Adda and Tieino ; and inter-
of this Church is adorned with sected by three Navigable CanaJs»
Paintings, by Procaccino, &o. and one of which extends to Pavia.
does honour to the taste of its Milan contains an hundred and
architect, Tibaldi. The facade, thirty ^ousand inhabitants; and
erected by PoUach, is adorned with may be called a handsome Town ;
Baisi-ruievi ; one of which repre- though its buildings, in point of
sents the Salutation, and the other architecture, are, generally speak-
the Presentation in the Temple, ing, defective : its climate, during
The country between Ro and Mi- winter, is damp and cold ; in sum-
Ian is flat, well cultivated, and mer, extremely hot ; and frequently
adorned by acacia and tulip-trees, damp and unwholesome in autumn
which flourish here with peculiar and spring^. Its Duomo, or Ca^
luxuriance, though several of them thedral, tiie largest Church in
hikve lately been supplanted by Italy, S. Peter*s excepted*, is an
mulberries. But the greatest or- Itahan Grothic Ediflce of white
nament of the approach to Milan, marble, begun in the year 1386 ;
tiie Triumphal Arch, Intended as a but the exterior was left unfinished
termination to the avenue of the till the reign of Napoleon, who
Simplon-road on one side, and as ordered it to be completed after
a decoration to the Forum on the the designaof Amati : and though
other, is, alas, imfinished ; though much nas been. accomplishMl,
enough of this magnificent work much still remajjlirift undone when
may be seen to convey an idea of the Emperor of Austria resumed
what the whole would have been, the government of the Milanese ;
if completed^ Four immense co- it is said, however, that Napo-
lumns, each hewn out of a single Icon's plan will still be followed,
block of marble, were designed to This Cathedral, in length four
support its two facades, the Bases hundred and forty-nine Paris
of which are adorned with beauti- feet, in breadth two hundred and
ful Figures in basso-riltevo, repre- seventy-five, and in height two
senting France, Clio, Calliope, and hundred and tiiirty-ei^ht to the
Italy, Hercules, Mars, Minerva, top of the cupola, is divided into
and Apollo. In the surrounding five parts, b^ an hundred and sixty
Penthouses are deposited stiB columns of marble, and paved
finer 5(W5i-7*i72>z7», representing the with the same material. The
Achievements of Napoleon, toge- interior ornament of the principal
ther with Capitals of pillars, and door is supported by two Columns
other architectural decorations, of granite, called Migliaruolo, and
«
(ti) The irrif ation of the rieefields, with mer being called six hundred and sixtf-nine
which the Milanese abonnds, contributes to Roman palmi in len^^th, and the latter only
render the air, at times, insalubrious. six hundred and six.
(w) According to the measurements in S. A Roman architectural palmo is about mna
Peter's, however, the Duomo at Florence is SngUsh incbM.
longer than the Cathedral ,at Milan ; the for*
48 MILAN. [Ch. II.
found in tiie beds of the neighbour- appears to be more than one like-
ing lakes and torrents. The in- ness of Napoleon*,
terior and exterior distribution of The Church of S, Alessandro
the choir were executed under possesses > considerable merit with
the orders of Pellegrini ; the Sar- respect to architecture ; together
coi)hagusofGian-Giacomode'Me- with good frescos in its Cupola;
dici was designed by Michael An- and its High Altar and Cioorio ^
gelo ; and the bronze ornaments are remarkably handsome,
were made by Leoni. The Statue The Church of S, Lorenzo, an oc-
of S. Bartholemew is by Agrati; tagonal Edifice, (adjoining to which
the Cupola, situated in me centre stands another Edifice resembling
of the choir, and beautifully an Ancient Bath,) is einbellished
adorned with fret-work, is by by handsome Columns, whose
Brunellesco ; and immediately un- bases appear to have been origin-
demeath, in a subterranean Chapel ally the Capitals of pillars, belong-
sumptuously decorated, rest fiie ing, as tradition reports, to a Tem-
mortal remains of S. Carlo Bor- pie of Hercules, which once stood
romeo, enclosed by a Crystal Sar- near this spot ; and before the
cophagus adorned with silver gilt : Church of S. Lorenzo is the only
his countenance, part of the nose good specimen of ancient Roman
excepted, is well preserved ; his architecture now remaining at Mi-
robes, crosier, and mitre, are su- Ian ; namely, a Portico, supported
perb ; and Silver Bassi-rilievi, ex- by sixteen beautiful fluted Columns
ecuted by Rubini, after the designs of the Coriiithian Order ; with an
of Cerano, and representing the Entablature which bears an inscrip-
great features of the exemplary tion in honour of the Emperor,
life of S. Carlo Borromeo, embel- Verus.
lish the walls of this Chapel. A The Refectory of the suppressed
Staircase, consisting of four hun- Convent of S. Maria delle Grazie
dred and sixty-eight steps, leads to is embellished with Leonardo da
the top of the Cathedral: and it is Vinci's celebrated Fresco of the
impossible to form a just idea of Last Supper : and although this
the exterior decorations of this im- masterpiece has suffered cruelly
mense and venerable marble pile, from time and ill treatment, it is
without ascending to its roofs ; still in sufficiently good preserva-
where alone the spiry fret-work, tion to be highly interesting*,
carving, and sculpture, can be The College of Brera, now the
viewed to advantage. The three Gymnasium, or Palace of Arts and
finished sides of the exterior walls Sciences, contains a fine collection
are covered with Bassi-rilievi, of Pictures ; among which are the
Statues, and Groups of Figures ; following. — First room, (Frescos.)
several of them well executed ; Three Boys playing on musical in-
while every spire, or needle, is struments, by Gaudenzio Ferrario.
crowned with a statue rather larger Second room. The Magdalene and
than life ; and, among these, there the Saviour, by Lodovico Caracci
from\a^n*riff tm ;,!; it^^^nt w r l'"*'? ""^ !??,' ? *^? ™°"^^°? t^" ^^^"^ 5 «»d from three
wJSlfronei aJ^Jx nr «ivpi 1^ Churches are tiU five, in the afternoon. The common fee
usually open at six, or seven, in the morning, at a Palace is from three to fivi» T^anla a*.
ISr^«??'?^„ Jl?*!."?^"" '".'» J!" W The late Viceroy of Italy had a fine
Saanstan of a Church u from one to two copy taken of thU freico; and likewise did
Pri^ie. we „„rily dwwn f«,«. »i,e. „ ori^.al!^' " ^ ""'" *• P"«"* *«
Oh. II.] MILAN. 49
'—two Pictures of Saints, by Pro- Saviour, ^. in the first maimer of
caccino— the Saviour bearing his Correggio— the Marriage of the
Cross, by Crespi — S. Sebastiano, Madonna, in the first manner of
by Caravaggio— The Saviour and Raphael — ^the Saviour dead, by
the Woman of Samaria, by Anni- Giovanni. Bellino — and a Sketch,
bale Caracci — ^Abraham dismissing by Andrea del Sarto'.
Hagar, by Guercino ! ! I — the Ma- The Gymnasium contains Casts
donna, the Saviour, God the Father, of the finest statues of antiquity;
&c, by Albano — ^Head of the Sa- a well furnished Observatory ; a
viour, by Guercino !— the Madon- good Library ; and a Botanic Gar-
na, the Saviour, S. John, and S. den.
Petronio, (the Patron of Bologna,) The Ambronan Library y founded
by ditto — a Dance of winged Loves, by Cardinal Fedengo Borromeo,
by Albano I! — ^the Last Supper, by contains above thirty-five thou-
Rubens-*-the "Woman detected in sand Printed Volumes, toeether
Adultery, by Agostino Caracci — with between fourteen and mteen
the Ascension of the Madonna, by thousand Manuscripts ; among
Paris Bordone — ^the Ascension of which are those of JLeonardo da
the Saviour, by Giulio Romano — Vinci, enriched by his Drawings —
the Nativity, by ditto— the Baptism a Virgil, with Annotations by Pe-
of the Saviour, by Paris Bordone — trarca, in his own hand writmg —
the Saviour dead, by Salmeggia — a Pliny, a Plato, and a Cicero, of
S. Peter and S. Paid, by Guido I the second century — and a Jose-
First division of the second room, phus written on papyrus, and writ-
Saints adoring the Cross, by Tin- ten on both sides of each leaf,
toretto — ^the Madonna, the Saviour, This Library likewise contains the
and Saints, by Savoldi — ^the Wo- following Paintings — a Holy Fa-
man detected m Adultery, by Pal- mily, by Titian — Sketches, by Pie-
ma Vecchio — ^the Saviour supping tro da Cortona — the original Sketch
with the Pharisee, by Paolo Ve- of the School of Athens, by Ra-
ronese — S. Francesco, by Palma il phael, well preserved, and most
Giovane — ^the Marriage in Cana of valuable ! ! — ^a fine Copy of Leo-
Galilee, by Paolo Veronese — the nardo da Vinci's painting of the '
Saviour dead, by Tintoretto — the Last Supper — ^a Slcetch, by Ra-
Madonna, the Saviour, and Saints, phael, of part of the Battle of
by Giulio Romano! — ^the Skiviour Constantine! — ^the Holy Family,
dead, by Benvenuto Garofolo ! by Bernardino Luini, the contem-
Second division. Several curious porary and rival of Leonardo da
old Pictures. Third division, Por- Vinci ! — Head of the Saviour, by
trait of Solimene— ditto of Anni- Luini — the Saviour dead, by Titian
bale Caracci — ditto of Procaccino — Sketches of the Last Judgment,
— ^the Madonna and Saints, by by Michael Angelo ! — Sketches, by
Pompeo Battoni I — S. Gu-olamo, Polidoro da Caravagjgio, and other
by Subleyras — Souls delivered fi-om great Masters — a Miniature of the
Purgatory, by Salvator Rosa I — Celestial Regions, by Albano ! I —
a large Landscape, by N. Poussin and a Fresco by Lmni, represent-
— ditto, by Salvator Rosa — ^the ing the Saviour crowned wiUi
Madonna, the Saviour, and Saints, thorns.
by Luca Giordano. Third room. The great Hospital, SLnd the Laz-
The Madonna, the Savioiu*, and zaretto, merit notice ; the latter is
S. Francesco, by Vandyck! — ^the just b^ond the eastern Gate of
Head of a Monk, by Velasquez I the City.
Fourth room. The Madonna, the The Marengo-^Gate, a simple
(a) Among tbia ooUection of Pictures an some beaiitif«l paintings of Game, by Frith.
B
dd MILAK--L6DI. fOk ft.
knd elegant spedm^tt of lotiie ar- Mon2a,abont three leagues north
chitecture, bears the following in- bf Milan, likewise contains a Royal
scription: ** Pact Populorum Sos- Residence, btdlt after the designs
pitce:' of Piermarini ; and another, called
The Amphitheatre, sitnated near Felucca, long celebrated for its
the Forum, is a magniicent Build- Stud of horses. Charlemagne wai
ing, erected by Napoleon, after crowned King of Lombardy, at
tile designs of Canonica ; and large Monza; where, in the Cathedral,
. enough to contain thirty- six thou- is deposited the ancient crown of
sand spectators. The pulvinare, the Lombard Kings, cohinlonly
and the principal entrance of tWs called ** The Iron Crown," because
edifice, especially deserve atten- its inside is lined with some of that
tion*, metal, said to be composed of the
The Theatre of ta Scaia, built nails with which our Saviour was
after the designs of Piermarini, is fastened to the Cross. The out-
deetned, with respect to architec- side of this Diadem is gold, studded
ture, the most beautiful Opera- with precious stones*,
house in Europe J and except the The road from Milan to Bologna
freat theatre at Parma, and that of traverses a luxuriant country,
. Carlo at Naples, it is the most which abounds with fields of rice
spacious. The stage-decoratiqns andeveryotherkindof grain, vine*
luso are splendid and classical ; yards, and streamlets for the pur*
and the orchestra is, generally poses of irrigation; and dlsways
speaking, the best in Italy : but the perfect neatness, without a single
clrcumsiance most creditable to inch of fallow land: this last, how-
this, and indeed to every other ever, is a thing rarely seen in Italy,
Theatre on the Continent, is that where the husbandman no sooner
perfect decorum which enables reaps one crop than another sue-
ladies, though unattended, tg go, ceeds. The road is, generallr
retmni, and even walk from box speaking, flat, and bordered with
to box, without the slightest townsand villages, as far as Lodl}
chance of receiving an insult. which stands on an eminence near
Milan contains other Theatres ; the Adda, is well built, and con-
namely, the Canohiana, in shape tains about twelve thousand inha*
resembling La Scala, but less spa- bitants. Its Gates are handsome';
cious; ^AeTeafroiJe; and the Car- and the most remarkable of its
cano, built by Canonica. Churches, LIncoronata, was erect-
The principal Promenades are, ed according to tiie designs of Bra*
the Ramparts; theCorso; and^Ae mante, ana adorned with Frescos
Esplanade between the Town and and Paintings in oil, by Callisto,
the Forums the pupil of Titian : but what
The environs of Milan boast a chiefly renders this Town interest-
considerable number of handsome ing is, that at the Bridge of Lodi
Villas ; among which is that pre- Napoleon gained one of his most
sented by the citizens to Napoleon, memorable victories'. The little
(V) Nanmftchia were represented here in degrees in Edinbargh, speaks Enfrli*1i, and
the time of Napoleon, althocg;h the building cotisiderB hioMeir bandiomelf paid by vtflelf -
was not finished. It still remains incomplete, ing one dollar per visit.
(c) It is lamentable to observe the cban|:e, ((T) From Milan it is' easy to make ftn 6Jt-
from afllnenee to comparative poverty, which cnrsion to Payia, either by l*od or water ;
has of late taken place aaiong tne inhabitants the latter town being only sertn leaguaa dia^
of Milan. The principal Hotels in this city tant from the former.
are The Oran-Bretagna^ The Alhergo Reaie^ (e) The Gates of tiodl are closed &fter it
M14 3^ Bl^tel Hmtae : and now (18S7) there beconiM dark ; bat may, by CIm «ld of » tnaU
resides at Milan an experienced and skilful fee, be qnened.
Physician, Doctor LocAteni, who took M9 (/) The Post-tooM belt ii ft Iftiyt well
Ohap. II.] PIACENZA. 51
pFormce, aivhksh Lodi is the Ca- on the Ceilmg of one of the Cha-
pital, usually gives food to thirty pels is attributed to the ume mas*
thousand cows; and the cheese ter. Parma has b^n lately en*
made here, improperly ciJled Fiur- riched with three celebrated paint-
mesan* is most exceUent ings, originally placed in this
After crossing the Po in a Cathedral, the In&nt Jesus, fiL
\md fearry-boat, the PonUvoUmi Catherine, and 8. Girolamo, by
having lieen destroyed by a great Francesco Maxsndla, oaUed Par«
inundation, TraveUers arrive at migianino— 4he Death of the Ma-
]Pi8cenza'. This Town, seated in donna, by Annibale Cairaoci — and
a rich and pleasant countiy be- the approach of the AposUes to
tween the Po and the Trebia, con- the Holy S^ulchre, alter the Re-
tains several objects of interest, surrection, by the same master.
The Cathedral, built during the Here ar^ however, the best Copies
twelfth century, is enriched witii which could be procured of these
good paintings. In its Cupola are paintings. The Chureh of La Ma»
Frescos, by Guereino, representing donna delki Campagna contains
the Evangelists, with Angels ho- good Pictures : aiid the Chmreh of
vmng round them ! Below these the Canomd regolari di 8, Agos*
mups are lesser Angels, forming tino, designed by Vignola, the
tbemeze ; and stilllower are figures Tbum-Hall, by the same architect,
of Sibyls. Franceschinihasrepre- and tufo Equestrian Statues, the
sented Virtue, Modesty, Humility, one representing Ranuedo, and
and Charity, in the groins which the other Alessandro Famese, bj
suppeart the Cupola. Near these Francesco Moca, likewise merit
are Moses and Aaron, by Lodovico notice. Piacenza is built entirely
Caracci; and three Paintings by of brick; not even its palaces ex*
Procaecino ; namely, the Assump- cepted : it contains a pretty Thea-
tion of the Virgin — ^David playing tre, and ^ood Hotels'". Here com-
on the harp — and S. Cecilia on the mences the ancient Via-Flaminw,
vkJonc^a The great Altar-piece, constructed during the Consulate
by Procaecino, is aji oil pamting of Lepidus and Flaminius, and
of considmihle merit: it repre- leading to the Via^EmiHa, in
sents the Death of the Virgin; but Romagna: and not far henoe
has been so much injuiid, that flows that memorable torrent ^e
the figures are scarce visible. One Trebia, through whose immense
of ^e Chapels contains a good bed Travellers pass on their way
Picture, by the same Artist of S. to S. Giovanni in the road to Tor-
Martino giving his cloak io a Beg- tona.
gar* A small side Chapel is em- At the distance of half a mile
bdlished \rith a good Picture of from Piacenza is a brid^ thrown
the Holy Family, attributed to the over the Po ; with a plain, on the
Caracci-School : and the Church left, watered by that fine river, and
Mkewise contains a Picture of S. the lofty Apennine on the right,
Corrado, by Lanfiranoo, and ano- with villages and farms at its
ther of S. Francois Xavier, by base. Midway to Fiorenzuola the
flamingo ; the Angels in fresco road crosses, oy a stone bridge, a
which surround &e Tatter are also torrent called the Nura ; and then
by Fiamingo: and the ascension traverses the bed of the Larda,
famished inn, and Utely was s priyate p%- (s) Thare is, on tha Piacanxa side of tha
]jiee. Fo, a Custom-liouse, where a small fee ttsualljp
Fiom Lodi there is* raad, by Cremona and exempts Tniv«ller8 from heing searelied.
Mantua, to Bologna : and to the east of Lodi (A) The Albergo delie trc QaiuwCy ^nd d.
k the foad throofh Breseia and Verona to Marco,
Venice. , ^2
52 BORGO-SAN-DONINQ— PARMA. [Ch. IL
always dry in summer; but pro- gianino, painted by those great
vided with a narrow bridge, over artists, and toleriably well pre-
which carriages pass when the served: and on the sides of the
stream is swoln by winter-rain, principal door are Portraits of Cor-
Hence the road proceeds through reggio and Parmigianino, likewise
Fiorenzuola (a small Town, where, painted by themsdves. This Ca-
however, the inns are good*) to thedral contains a Moniiment to
Borgo-San-Donino*=, seated on the the memory of Petrarca.
Stirone, and not far distant from The Church of 8. Giovanni
what are supposed to be the ruins Evan^elista, biiiit- with ms^estic
of the ancient Julia Chrisopolis. simpbcity, contains frescos, in its'
The Cathedral at S. Donino, and Cupola, Iw Correggio ; who has
liie Edifice converted by order of represented the Saviour ascending
Napoleon into an Asylum for the to Heaven in presence of his Dis-
Poor, deserve notice. A few miles ciples I
from this Town stands Castel- The Stoccata, built after a de-
Guelfo, celebrated for having given sign of Bramante, does honour to
its name to the Guelphs, whose the taste of that distinguished ar-'
strife with the Ghibellmes bathed chitect, and is adorned with fine
Italy in blood. Beyond Castel- Paintings ; namely, Moses break-
iGruelfo the road crosses the Taro mg the Tables of the Law, by Par-
by a peculiarly majestic Bridge,- migianino — Sibyls, by the same
begun by Napoleon, and finished master — and Frescos, in the Cu-
by Maria Louisa ; thence to Parma, pola, by Correggio.
traversing a rich and beautiful The Convento delle Monache di
valley adorned with villages and S. Paolo contains a room adorned
vineyards. with Frescos by Correggio; and
Parma, a handsome Town, de- considered as the most beautiful
rives its appellation from the river work of its kind he ever executed,
by which it is watered: its walls The principal sulject is Diana
are between three and four miles triumphant accompanied by G&^i
in circumference ; and its inhabit- The Royal Academy (once. the
ants are said to amount to thirty- Royal Residence, and a very ex-
five thousand : but, nevertheless, tensive building^ contains a newly
this City looks melancholy and fitted up Public Gallery for Pic-
deserted, tures; some of the finest among
The Cathedral, built with brick, which, are the following. — ^The
like all the other public edifi!ces. Madonna and Infiint Saviour, Mary
the great theatre excepted, is a Magdalene, aiid S. Jerome, called
precious
pola finely painted by Correggio : Martyrdom of Santa Placida, and
the subject being the Assumption her Sister, Santa Flavia I — ^the De-
of the Madonna; who is repre- position from the Cross ! — ^ttieMa-
sented ascending, encompassed by donna and Infant Saviour, with S.
Angels, to Heaven, in presence of Peter, S.John, S. Catherine, andS.
the Apostles and other Saints ! ! Cecilia I ! — aU five by Correggio —
This celebrated work, like many of the Madonna della Scala ! a fr«soo'
Correggio^s frescos, is cruelly in- — and S. John crowning the Ma-
nured. Over the organ are the donna I a fresco— both by Corre^-
families of Correggio and Parmi- gio — ^the Ascension, by Raphad!
(0 La Croce Bitmca is the best 00 S. Donino contains two inns, La Ct9C^
hianccif and L'Albergo del Angelo^
Ch. II.] PARMA— REGGIO. 53
- — >the Deposition from the Cross, of Broiue—StAmps for stamping
by Annibale Caracci ! I — ^two Pic- In-ead — Grecian Vases, ^.
tures, by the same master, (aJready The great Theatre, designed by
mentioned as having once adorned Vignola, and buUt of wood, is the
the Cathedral at Piacenza,) namely, most spacious, and, in pokit of
the Death of the Madonna I — architecture, the most perfect edi-
and the Approach of the Apos- ficeof its kind in Italy: it contains*
ties to the Holy Sepulclure after with ease, from five to six tiiou-
the Resurrection ! — ^The Madonna sand spectators, (some authors say
crowned, a fresco by Annibale Ca- nine thousand,) all of whom can
racci — ^the Saviour, S. Catherine^ see every thing which passes on
and S. Girolamo, (already men- the sta^, and near every syllable
tioned as having once adorned the spoken by the Actors, even thoug^
C/athedrsd at Piacenza) by Parmi- uttered m a whisper. But tms
gianino — the Adoration of the Ma- fine specimen of architecture is
gi, by the same master* — ^the Three now so entirely out of repair*
Manes at the Holy Sepulchre, by that a few years may probably re-
$chidone !— -the Deposition from duceit to aheap of ruins,
the Cross, likewise by Schidone I ! Adjoining to the great Theatre
r-ajid the Espousals of the Ma- is another, ouilt after the designs
donna, by Procaccino. of Bernini, and, comparativ^
This Academy also contains se- speaking, small, as it does not
yeral interestingAntiquities found hold more than two thousaiMl
ix Velleia, a Koman municipal spectators : but the present Sove*
Citjr; which was buried by the reign, Maria-Louisa, is building
sudden fall of a mountain, sup- a new Theatre.
red to have been undermined Parma contains good hotels*,
a subterraneous water-course* Just beyond one of the CHy-
This melancholy event took place gates is the Palazzo- Qiardino^
in the fourth century : and judging embellished with fine fVescos, by
by the number of human bones Annibale Caracci. Nine miles
found at Velleia, when it was ex- distant, on the way to Casal-
cavatedin 1760, there seems rea- Maggiore, is Colomo, a laige
son to ap]^rehend the inhabitants Palace, adorned with two cele-
had not time to escape. Velleia brated Statues ; one representing
was thirteen leagues distant from Hercules, the other Bacxshus, and
Farma ; and some of the most in- both found in the Orto Fameae at
teresting Antiquities with which it Rome.
has furnished the Parma Academy • From Parma the road passes
are — a head of Adrian, orifi^i- between neat and luxuriant farms
nally gilt, and finely executed- to S. Ilario^ crossing, at the
two Latin Inscriptions, written on extremity of the Duchy of Parma,
bronze, and said to be the largest the Lenza by a magnificent Brid^,
ever discovered— Gold Chains — and then crossing the Crostolo by
Brackets — ^Armlets — Rings, ^., another Bridge previous to reach-
in the highest preservation — ^to one ing Reggio. This Town, anciently
Cham a Medal is attached — ^Am- Bnegivm Lepidi, and seated on
phorse — Lachrvmatories — Lamps the Crostolo, is supposed to con-
— a Pair of Snufiers, vexy like tain near sixteen thousand inhabi-
those usually attached to modem tants. The Cathedral here merits
Roman lamps — ^various Ornaments notice, one of its Chapels being
(0 This pictiire is bf some persons attri- (») There is at S. Ilario, a troublesoma
bated to Agostino Caracci. costoin-house ; where Travellan nmally giva
(m) II Faoiut is remarkably comfortable. a fi^e, and have their truuHs plaqkwpi..
64 MODSNA. [Oh. th
ttdomid with good Pictm^eft ; aiid Jhtedle, «L s|dendid Btxnsstm^, o&n^
the Chtirch of S. Fietro is a hand- tains a neble Hall, the Ceihhg of
«ome Edifice : but what particu- whi^ is finely painted in Fr^rco
latiy renders this place interesting, by Franceseoni ; together with se-
ts its having given birth to that veral fine eaisel Figures; among
greatest of Italian Poets, Ariosto : which are — ^the Adoration of the
indeed the soil seems to h^ve been Magi, by Palma' Gfovani — the
prolific of genius ; for between Madonna, the Saviour, and other
Eeggio and Modena, not a league figures, W Garlofiilo— the Cruci«
distant firom the road, is Cerre^o, fixion, by Fomaraneio ! — ^the Holy
the birth-place of the great painter Fanuly, *by Andrea del Sarto^Hi
who bore its name'*. Madonna and Child, by Raphael !
Reggio contains three Hotels p. — Christ giving Sight to the Blind,
Passing through Rul»eraS an by Agostino Caracci! — ^theAsoen-
old Fortress in bad condition, sion of the Madonna^ by Lodovico
(wh^re TYaveUers who arrive after ' Caracci — ^four small Fxetures, by
dark find the Gkites shut, and are Aiinibale Caracci I — S. Rooco, by
compelled to wait till leave be Gruido — the Crucifiidon, by Gnido
obtained for having them opened,) — the Martyrdom of S. Peter, by
the road crosses the Secchia by a GhiereiAo t-»-the Marlyrdom of ».
fine Bridge thrown over that tor-* Francesco, bv Leonello Spatk^^-^
rent; and then winding within Head, by AH>ert Burer!->— and a
View of a splendid Column, ere^ed^ Head or the Madonna, by Carie
according to report, in honour of Dole! I The Chapel is adorned
Napoleon, enters Modena, anci- with a Paanting of the Circnmei-
ently Mutina, a small but elegant sion, by Profi«ecino\
City, situated amidst rich pasixir- Modena contains Public Batiis^
ages, between the rivers secchia a Theatre, a. pubhc R'omenade)
and Panora ; and of late yews and several Private Collections <A
Qxuch improved. Ilie Gates are Pictures, reported to be upon sale:
handsome^ the Ramparts form a and it likewise still contains tlie
beautiful Promenade round the Secchia^ or. Bucket, immortality
Town ; the streets in general are by Tassoni. Iliis otject, so inte*
straight, wide, and clean ; and the resting to lovers of mock heroic
Stradarmaestra (part ^ the an- poelary, is now removed from the
dent Via-EmiUaJ is magvaficent* Cathedral, where it used to be
'Whe Cathedral contauis a Hoture exhibited, and placed in a neigh-
of the Presentation, by Guido : and bouring Tower, under the cere of
the Campaniley a marble Edifice, the Municipality; but Travellera
is one of the loftiest Towers in may always see it, by applying to
Italy. The Churches of S, Vin- the Cmtode of the Tower.
cewso and 8. Agoetino merit no^ Modena alPorded an a85dum to
tice ; and the rubUe Library is Brutufi, after the assassination of
well stored with valuable Manu- Caesar; and is also famous for
scripts and rare Editions of Printed having given birth to Muratori>
Works. The University has 1<^ Vignola, and the Author of the
beent^ebrated ; and the Paktzzo SeceMa Rapita*,
(o) The family name of this distinguished (lO ^^ Albergo Reale is tolerably sood.
ftrtt8t#aB AUeen: lie died soon after liaring &) Rnbiera boastg^-but one tolerable Inn ;
»ttaiafd his fortieth year, OBiTersally m* ^Ad that stands beyond the Bridge, en tito
teemed and lamented : for he was industrioos, ^^^ ^ Modena.
modest, even to humility, and soweU tem- (f) A fine pictare, by Correg;gio,wal shortly
pered as to feel no resentment at the envy and enrich this collection.
iMlioe «xeited by his brilliant talents. He <0 ^f** HUel ttt S- MHreo, at Modena, in
«i««ctad hls-attention partienlarly to the art of A good inn « so likewise is The AUbergo Beale.
foreshorteniiH^t ttidtmys drewfr^m Batnre.
CkllJ BOLOeNA* • 14
At a Ami dirtinoe frtm iJtm aattqi%. m^fts telfee. Okavkt
City th« road crosses the Pajiom V, wa3 crowned htBr« by Cksmsat
by A handsome newiy^onstruoied VII ; and this Edifkis umtsi»s the
bttdge, which mwtks the linsite of criebraM Meridisa of Cassini •
tite Dudiy ; th«iee prooeediiig to the gnomon of which m ttshtr*
Castd^Fmujo, the fest town of three feet in height.
^ £<»i0siiistical Temteies % and The Dommican Church contains
1htticepa»singtinrough8amoggia% good Paintings; aiBoi« which is
and traversing a noh country the Paradise of Gkiido. one of hta
adorned witii several villas and finest compositions in fresco f
a fine view of the Apennine, till The Church qf S, Bartolommeo
it mosses the Reno by a handsome contains a celebratad Madonna and
Bridge, and enters Bologna on the Infiuit Jesus, by Guido-~aiKi the
site of the aiMient Roman road*. Martyrdom of S. Bartolomeo, by
Bdogna, seated on the Reno, at fVanceschini.
tfee base of the Apenmne, is sup* The Church of S, S^fvetiore is
posed to have dmvcd its name enriched with good Paintings,
from the Galh-Botonienses, who Lo Studio, Sie Palace belongimt
called it Boibna, whidi time to the University, was dengned l^
eha^edfirstinto^0»omVz-2%^nMt, Yignola; and contains a StatiM
and at length into Bologna : but, of Hercules, in Bronse ; a Mu«
be iMs as it may, tlwCityis of seum of Natural History ; an Ana-
high antiquitv, weii peojrfled, com- tomioai Theatre ; a Cabinet of
merciai, wealthy, and »tuated in Antiquities ; and a Library w«!l
a salubrious though not a warm stored with ancient Manuscripts*
clima4«: its walls are said to be and Books of Bcience. Soma
near five mUes round ; and its writers suppose this ikmous Uni«
population is supposed to amount versify to nave been founded by
to sev^ity ^ousand inhal^tants. the Eiaipepor, Ilieodosius II, in
The C^ahedrod hwe, a fine edi- 425 ; white others ascribe its foun-
fiee, erected in 1«00, contains, in dation to the Countess Matilda,
its Sanctuary, the last work of at a mueh later period. It once
Lodovioo Caracci, a Fresco, re-> contained six thousand students,
presentif^ the Annunciation ! In and seventy-two professon : but
the Chapt€«r-*oom is a picture of its celebrity Ims, in modem times,
S. Peter and the Madenna, be- diminished ; though Bologna is
wailing the death of the Saviow, still an excdlent place fer the
b^ the same master ; who has like- . education of young persons ; as
wise adorned the lower end of the masters of every description' ai«
Choir with a fresco of Cimst pre- attainaWe here, on moderate terms :
senting the keys of Heaven to €k besides which, the high cultivation
Peter. Beneam the Choir is a of science, and the courtesy whidi
curious Ciypt. characterizes thcupper rank of per-
The Church of /8f. Pietro, a sons at Bologna, render it a pleasant
noble structure, contams a Fresco place for a permanent residence,
representing the Salutaiticm, by The Accadema delle belle Arti
Lodovico Caracd. has a very fine, though not a very
The Chinch qf 8. Peiramo, numerous collection of Piotoes •
built in 432, and repaired in 139^, among which an— 4he Depositioii '
is large, and, on account of its ^om the Cross, by C^ani— th«
(0 Here Travellers are obliged to fee the (u) The modem ro&d between Milan and
Onstom-hottse Officers, m order to escape Bologna is most excellent, and does not pass
ImpfL^^rgip^. over one high iiU.
(v) La PoHa, at Samoggia, is a good ino.
54
BOLOGNAi
[Ch. II.
Ascension of the Madonna, by^
Sabbatini — ^the Baptism of Christ,
Iw Albano — ^the Conversion of S,
Paul, by Lodovico Caracci — an
Adoration, by the • same great
master — S. Girolamo, by Agostino
Caracci — S. Bruno, by Guercino
— tJie Madonna delta Pieth, by
Guido — S. Cecilia, by Raphael I —
tiie Massacre of the Innocents, by
Guido — ^the Madonna in Heaven,
bv Parmigianino — the Head of
Guido, by Simone da Pesaro — the
Portrait of S. Andrea Corsini, by
Guido — ^the Martyrdom of S. Ag-
nes, by Domenichino!^ — and the
Mculonna del Rosario, by the same
great master !
The PalazzO'Marescalchi con-
tains a good collection of Pictures ;
among which are — several pro-
ductions of the Flemish School —
the Head of a Young Man, by
Rembrandt — a fine Tmtoret — S.
Peter, by Guido — a Master and
his Scholar, by Caravaggio — a
Head, by Denner — Banditti de-
stroying a Town, by Teniers — an
oli Man, by Rembrandt— S. Peter
and S. Paul, by Caravaggio — the
Saviour and Angels, by Correg-
fio I ! I — S. Peter and otner Saints,
y ditto I — an Ecce Homo, School
of Leonardo da Vinci — S. Cecilia,
by Domenichino — a candle-hght
^ Picture, master not known — a
Madonna and Child, by Paolo
Veronese — and Neptune and Pro-
serpine, by Correggio.
The Palazzo^ Zampiere has a
Hall the CeiUng of which is finely
painted by Lodovico Caracci ; the
subject being a group of Jupiter
with the Eagle and Hercules !
The same apartment, contains a
Painting by Agostino Caracci ;
who has represented Ceres in
search of Proserpine; and the
Rape of Proserpine in the back
ground. The Ceiling of another
room is by Annibale Caracci, and
represents the Apotheosis of Her-
cmes. The Ceding of the third
room is by Agostino Caracci ; and
represents Hercules and Atlas
supporting the Globe: this room
likewise contains a Painting of
Hercules and Cacus, by the same
artist. The Ceiling of the fourth
room is by Guercino, and re-^ .
presents Hercules strangling An-
taeus ! One of the accompanying
ornaments of this Ceiling exhibits
a beautiful figure T)f Love stealing
the spoils of Hercules.
The Tower of Asinelli, erected
in 1109, is three hundbred and
twenty-seven Paris feet in height ; .
and inclines nearly four, from the
perpendiciilar line. The neigh-
oouring Tower, erected in 1110,
is an hundred and forty feet high,
and declines above eight, from the
perpendicular line.
A handsome Fountain, adorned
with a colossal Statue of Neptune,
by Giovanni di Bologna, embel-
Hshes the Piazza del Gigante : and
through the city runs a Canal, by
aid of which Travellers may be con-
veyed, by water, to Ferrara ; and
thence embark on the Po for Venice.
The Theatre at Bologna is one
of the larjgest in Italy : and the
fapades of the Palaces, and other
buildings, are magnificent: but
the streets appear narrow, from
being lined almost universally
with Porticos : and this circum-
stance, added to the want of spa-
cious piazzas, diminishes the
beauty of the Town, by riving it
a sombre appearance^. The Mo-
dena and I^^rrara Gates are hand-
some. Travellers, on arriving at
Bologna, are greeted by an excel-
lent band of musicians ; who, after
having played a few tunes, are
well satisfied by a fee of two or
three pauls.
It is said that remains of the
Baths of Marius, and likewise of a
(w) Among the best Hotels here, are The grande Alhergo Jmpmale^ and VAlhergo di
S, Marco,
Ch. IL] PASSAGE DP THE APENNINE. 5/
Temple of Isis, on the foundations From Bologna, byihe Apeniune,
of wich the Church of S. Ste- to Florence, uie road though hilly,
fano now stands, may be traced is excellent; owin^ to improve-
here, ments made by dSection of the
Bolo^a gave birth to Guido, late Cav. Fabbroni.
Domemchino, Albano, Amiibale, The time usually employed in
Lodovico, and Acostino Caraoci ', accomplishing this journey, either
and Benedict XlY : and among with post-horses, or en voiturier^
its natural curiosities is the Phos- is from fourteen to fifteen hours,
phorescent stone, found near the The ascents and descents are more
Ci^, on Monte-^Pademo. rapid than those of the Simplon,
About one mile distant from the though not suflEtciently so to render
wails, is the CompoSfanto; onee the a drag-chain often requisite, even
Certosa-Convent : and here lies for hea\^ carriages ; and the paved
the celebrated Singer, Banti ; gutters mtersected by small weUs,
whose vocal powers, not lon^ made to receive the streams which
since, captivated Europe. This rush from heists above the road,*
Repository of the Dead is worth keep the latter dry, and in good
notice; and its Church contains repair.
Paintings by Cesi, Guercino, Gui- Between Bologna and Pianora,
do, ^. (the first Post,) the country is
The Church of the Madonna rich and flat ; but at Pianora the
deUa Gttardia also merits notice ; ascent of the Apennine begins,
as it is approached by a Portico, and continues to the confines of
consistii^ of six hundred and forty Tuscany. Near the second Post,
arches, built at the expense of (Lojano,) is a magnificent view of
various individuals, corporations, the Mediterranean and Adriatic
and ecclesiastical eslabhshments ; sea, together with the plains ex-
the whole being three miles in tending frt)m Bologna to Miian.
length; and extending from the At Lojano Travellers should not
City to the Church ; which is attempt to sleep ; because the Inn
magnificently placed; and some- is very small and uncomfortable:
what resembles the Superga, near but at Pietramala, the frontier
Turin. Custom-house of Tuscany ^ and
Persons who enjoy fine scenery, about midway between Bologna
and good paintings, shoiddhkewise and Florence, there is an Inn pro-
visit 8. mickele in Bosco; once vided with several beds; and,
a Convent belonging to the Olive- though not good, tolerable. The
tans. The Portico of the Church ascent from Lojano to Pietramala
is adorned by the pencil of Cig- displays bold scenery, more beau-
nani : and one of the Chapels con- tiful than the Alps, though less
tains a Picture by Guercino, re- sublime: but this part of the
presenting Bernardo Tolomei, the Apennine, from being situated im-
Founder of the Order, receiving mediately between the Mediter-
his statutes from the Madonna, ranean and the Adriatic, and very
In the Convent are several fine near both, is liable to pecuharly
Works by Lodovico Caracci, and strong and bitter gusts of wind ;
one by Leonello Spada. The si- and, therefore, much colder than
tuation of tilus building is lovely. the Alps. About a mile distant
(x) Annibale Caracci was desigpned for a by his lessons, that their memory must be for
goldsmith : bnt his ancle, Lodovico, obsenring ever honoured by true lovers of the -A-rts. ^
that both Annibale and hts brother, Agostino, (y) Here Travellers usually bftv« *»«»»
were blessed with great abilities, took upon trunks plumbed ; and give J«»*" ^J"* 'f^^T;
himsetf the office of instructing them in the francs, per carriage, to the t/ustpm-nouse
art of painting : and to proch did thtfy pvofit Offieen.
&» flobsnoe: [Ckiii.
ft^m PMrftmalA i« a smaM Fblr fields beaaahs^ with 4tof»tt emy
cafto» situated on a hill, ealled vfduable i^rodtistion of th« v«ge«
Monte di Fo, and covered with table world, and sttrroumM hf
tocks. Hiere being neither a car- hills clothed with the silver olive
riage, nor a mule-road to the spot, and the vine, and studded with an
it is necessity to walk, in order to innumemble i»st of spkodid yiShm.
"^sit this Volcano ; and less tiian Ahosto says of floreoce, tha^
an hour and a helf cannot be on seeing the hills so full of ^a>-
allowed fbr goin^ and returning, laces, it appears as if the soil |n*o«
The mouth of ttie Volcano dis- ducedthem. '*A»dif thypal^Bet^
gorges unceasingly clear flames, (continues he,) which are thus dis-
sometimes spreading fifteen feet persed, were ooncentr«uted within
in circumference, and always bum- one wail, tW'O Romes could not vi«
iftg brightest in wet and -stormy wi^ thee."
weather. From Pietramala the The approadi to Florence dis-
road descends to Le Maschere, <a plays for several miles, a richn«ss
tolerably good Inn, well provided of miltivalion unrivaJifid perhtfM
with beds,) thence proceeding in any country, (ttie envinxis tA
through a country gradually in- Lucca excepted :) and liie entrance
(^^easmg in richness ; till at length to the City this way, through the
Val d* Amo opens to the view, and Porta- San-GaUo, is strikingly mag-
exhibits, in its centre, the beauti« mfteent*.
fol City of Florence, seated amidst
Chapter III.
FLORENCE.
Orii^iii and present appearance of Florence— palazzo-Vecchio— Loggia— Piazia delOrtndtica
—Palazzo del Podesta— Fabbrica degli Ufizi— MagliabeoWanaTibraTf-^Roy*! Oallety—
PalazBO-Pitti— Giardino di IBoboli— Maseo d'lstoria Naturale— Duomo— Campadile-^
Bapti«tery-<!!ne»e di Saa Mmjco— S. S. Anamisiata— S. Uaria MMldalm 4ei Paz?i—
Santa Croce— S. Lomossd— N«v Saciristf— Old Sacmtyi-Ga^lla d«' Medm-r^ecLieee-
X^anrenziaoa Library— Chi«9e di Santa Mana Nov^la— »'Or-Sa©-Michele— Di Saa*
Spirilo— Del Carmine— Di S. Triniti— Di S. Ambrogio— Di S. Gaetono; ^c— Reale
Accademia delle belle Arti— Oratorio dello Scalzo— Palaazi Gerini— Riooardi— Corsini—
Mozzi— Bupnaroti— Strozzi— Uguccioni— Casa dei Poveri— Spedale di Bopifazio— Spe-
dale di Santa Maria Nuoya— Spedale degV Innocenti— Column in y^a-Romana— Column
near the Ponte S. Triniti-^olttmn in the Piazza del Doomo— Bronze Wild-boar in (^
Mercato imovo— Pedesdal near tk« Church ©f S. LM«toix>-JSta4Qe of F«rdinMido I.—
- Porta S. Gallo— Triamphal Arch— Fwaco by Gionumi di Sao Giemmni^Ponte S. Tri-
nit*— Theatres— Fiorentinp Mo«aic Work, and Scnlptare ia Alabaster— Aoeademi* d^l»
• Cmsca^Hotels-Provisions— Water— Climate— Festa <lii Saa Oiovaj»i— Cowo dei B«r-
beri— Game caUed Pallone— Environs of Florenoe— Royal Cascini— Car^ggi de* Madici--
Poggi Imperiale—Pratolino-Fiesole—Vallombrosa— Abbey of -Camaldoli— Convent <rf
Lavernia— Character of the Florentines— Tuscan Peasantry— their behaviour at a Dance
•—Anecdote relative to a Foundling— Laws of JUopold-Population of Tuscany.
Florence, in Italian, Firenze, ^rms of the city,) has deservedly
which signifies, m the Etruscaa acquired the appellation of La
language, a red %, (a<jtuaHy the Bella ; it stands <as ah^dy men-
(«) AU the Gates of Florence are slint whea it ^Moomes dsnk* m£t^t iht Porta Ssn-^aUo.
Gh, in.] FLORENCB. 5#
tiOtted) in ia WMffiatit, beautiful, Donittello*. Th« Court leading to
and extenave plain, encircled by the great staircase is spacious,
the Apennine; and is said, by and exhibits superb Columns,
some authors, to have been an an* which, toward the close of the
cient town of Etruria, fLfberwards last century, were substituted for
inhabited by the Phoenicians ; those raised by Amolfo. Here
vrhiie others suppose it to haire likewise is a group, by Rossi da
been founded either by 8y!ia*s sol* Fiesole,. of Hercules slaying Cacus.
diers, or the people of Fiesole : and The Great Hall of this Palace is 4
one thing seems certain, namely, magnificent apartment with re-
that the choicest part of Csesai's spect to dimensions and propor-
army was sent to colonize at Flo- tions ; and displays the most cele-
rence, (then called Florentiai) brated actions of the Florentine
about sixty years before the birth Republic and the Family of Me-
of our Saviour ; and under the dicis, painted by Vasari, four pic-
dominion of the Roman Emperors tures excepted ; one of which, by
it became one of the most consi- Ligozzi, represents tiie Coronation
derable cities of Etruria, and was of Oosimo I — another, the twelve
embellished with a Hippodrome, a Florentines at the same time Am-
Oampus Martius, a Capitol, and a bassadors from different States to
road, called Vict^ Cassia. Its walls Boniface VIII, also by Ligozzi —
are six miles in circumference ; a third, the Election 01 Cosimo I,
and contain about eighty thousand b3r Cigoli — ^and a fourth, the In-
persons ; and the river Amo, (an- stitution of the Order of S. Ste-
cientiy ^mt«,) which runs through fano, by Passignano. This Hall
ft, is adorned with four handsome likewise contains an unfinished
bridges: its squares are spacious Group of Victory with a fallen
and numerous ; its streets, like Foe, by Michael Angelo. The
tiiose of every large Tuscan cily, Exploits of Furius Camillus are
ctean, and excellently paved with painted in tempera, b^ Salviati,
flat stones ; and, were liie facades m the Sala dell' Udienza Vec-
of all its churches finished, no- chia.
tiling could exceed the elegance of The Loggia of the Palazzo Vec-
this Athens of Italy, chio, called Loggia del Lanzi,
1%e Palazzo- Vecchio, or na- and erected after a design of An-
tional Palace, adorned with a dra Orcagna, is a beautiftil open
Tower so lofty that it is deemed a Gallery, raised on five steps, and
chef'Scetwre of architecture, was presenting a front of three Columns
bimt about the close of the thir- and three Arches, lie capitals
teenth century, by Amolfo, the of the columns support a Frieze
Discijde of Cimabue. and projecting Cormce : the con-
This edifice, like all the early struction of Sie roof is particu-
spechnens of Florentine architec- larly admired ; and the whole
ture, is grand and gloomy ; oom- fidifice considered as a masterly
bioin^ the ancient Etruscan style combination of Greek and Gothic
with the Grecian. On each side aixjhitecture. Beneath the arches
of the Gate of entrance is a of this Edifice are the following
Group in marble ; the one repre- pieces of sculpture : — ^A Group, ia
sents David sla3dn^ Goliah, and bronze, representing^ Judith and
was done by Michael Angelo; Holofemes, b;^ Donatello — a
tiie other represents Hercules slay- Group, likewise in bronze, of Per-
il^ (3acus, and is attributed to sens and Medusa, by Benvenuto
(a) tlhas Uca,T)3r sotoe writers, attributed to BairtrmelH.
€0
FLORENCE. (Oh. III.
Cellini I (The Basso-rilievo, on The Fabbrica degji Ufizi, which
the Pedestal which supports this comprehends the Koyal GaUery,
group, is much admired ;) — and a was built by Vasaii : the exterior
Group, in marble, of a young Ro- part of the edifice is ornamented
man Warrior carrying off a Sabine with Doric Columns, forming two
Female, whose Father is prostrate inagnificent Porticos, united at
at Jiis feet ; with the Rape of the one end by an Arch, which sup-
Sabines, in hasso-rilievo, on the ports the apartments occupied by
Pedestal, by Giovanni di Bologna I! coiu^s of justice; and, over this
Six ancient and finely draped Sta- arch, is a statue of Cosimo I, by
tues of Sabine Priestesses line the Giovanni di Bologna ; together
Wall of the Loggia ; and two with recumbent figures of Equity
Lions of marble, brought from the and Rigour, by Vincenzo Danti.
Villa Medici, at Rome, stand oh The Maghabechiana- Library,
either side of the Entrance. rich in manuscripts and printed
The Piazza del Granduca is books of the fifteenth century, (and
adorned with a beautiful Eques- where the Florentine Academy
trian Statue of Cosimo 1, in meet,) is under the same roof with
bronze, by Giovanni di Bologna; the Royal Gallery; the latter is
who has represented the Grand- usually open to the public from
Duke as entering Florence in tri- nine in the morning till three in
umph, after the conquest of Siena; the afternoon, festivals excepted,
and on the Pedestal of the statue Staircase leading to the Royal
the fate of the vanquished City is Gallery^ Between the windows
recorded in basso-rilievo. This is the Statue of Bacchus, in mar-
Piazza likewise contains a Foun- ble ; and, opposite to it, the Statue
tain, erected by Cosimo I, after of a Child.
the design of Ammannati ; and ex- First Vestibule. A Statue of
hibiting a colossal statue of Nep- Mars, and another of Silenus,
tune in a car drawn by four sea- with an infant Bacchus, both in
horses, with Tritons and other bronze — ten Busts of the Princes
appropriate ornaments: but the of the House of Medicis, among
Fountain is ill placed ; and the which is that of the great Lorenzo
statue of Neptune much too gi- — ^four Bassi-rilievi.
gantic for its situation. Second Vestibule, A Horse in
The Palazzo del Podesta, con- marble; supposed to have ori-
verted during the close of the thir- ginally belonged to the group of
teenth century into a Prison, and Niobe and ner Children !— Two
called II BargellOf was buUt by quadrangular Columns, which ap-
Amolfo ; and merits notice from pear to represent the victories by
being one of the early specimens land and sea of the person to
of Florentine architecture. Its whom they were dedicated: on
Gate exhibits two Lions, the sup- one of these Columns rests a Head
porters of the arms of Florence : of Cybele ; and, on the other, a.
and the Walls of the Court of this fine Just of Jupiter — a Wild-
Edifice are covered with Monu- boar ! ! said to be Grecian sculp-
, mental stones, on which the names ture— colossal Statues of Adrian,
of citizens who held the offices of Tr^an, and Augustus — ^two Wolf-
Podesta, Esecutore, and Capitano, do&[s ! — a Bust of Leopoldo.
during the Republican Govern- First Corridor, Tlie ceiling of
ment, are inscribed. The arms of this inunense Gallery is adorned
the Palazzo, consisting of Dragons, with arabesques : round the walls
Bears, and chained Dogs, may near the ceilm^, are portraits of the
likewise be seen h^re. most renowned Characters of an-
Gh.IIL] FLORENCE. 61
tiquitf ; cDmjnrehending generals, side, neai* the eeiling, is a ccmti-
statesmen, princes, and literati; nuation of the portraits of the
and, on the wall to the left, below most renowned Cnaracters of an-
the portraits, are paintings of the tiquity ; and, on the left side, be-
Florentine school. Here, likewise, low the portraits, are paintings by
is a most valuable collection of the Neapolitan, and other Schools.
Busts of the Roman Emperors, Here, liKewise, is a lai^ number
and many of their Relatives, which of statues; among which are
go round the three corridors. The Marsyas, restored byDonatello—
nrst Corridor contains several cu- Marsyas, restored by Verrocehio
rious Sarcophagi ; one of which, in — ^Thetis seated on a Sea-horse —
the centre of tins apartment, near Hygeia — a Discobolus, supposed*
the entrance-door, is particularly by Visconti, to be an ancient copy
admired. On the left side are Sta- of the Discobolus of Myron — ^Mi-
tues of a Wrestler, Mercury, and nerva, supposed to be either an
Apollo, aU especiaUy worth notice ; Etruscan work, or a production of
as are the Statues of Apollo, Ura- the iEgina School — Mercuiy, the
nia, and Pan with the young Olyn- upper part ancient, the lower part
thus, on the right side. modem — Apollo seated — JEcvisb^
Second Corridor, On each side pius, supposed to have been part
near the ceiling, is a continuation of a Group ; there being, on the
of the portraits of the most re- left shoulder of this Statue, a mark
nowned Characters of antiquity ; of the hand of another figure —
here, likewise, are paintings con- Marcus Aurelius — Bacchus, by
taining the history of S*. Maria Michael Angelo — Bacchus, by San-
Maddalena, together vrith several sovino— Apollo, (unfinished) by
pieces of sculpture, namely, Cupid I Michael Angelo— S. John Baptist,
Bacchus and Ampelos ! a !Bac- by Donatello — a Copy of the La-
chante ; Mercury ! Leda; acircu- ocoon, by.Bandinelli — an antique
lar Altar ! supposed to be the work recumbent Statue in touchstone^
of Cleomenes; Cupid and Psy- supposed to represent Moipheusi
che ; Venus- Anadyomene I Pallas- — and an Altar dedicated to. the
Athenas ; the Pedestal of a Can- Lares of Augustus,
delabrum dedicated to Mars ; on Among the most striking Busts
which stands a small trianeular in the Corridors are those of Ju-
Altar ; Ganymede, restored by lius Csesar, in marble-^ulia, the
Benvenuto Cellini ; Ganymede Daughter of Augustus — Marcus
with the Eagle ! Venus, whose A^ppa — Caligula — Nero when a
head is encircled by a diadem which child ! — Otho !---Julia, the Daugh-
seems to have been originally co- ter of Titus — ^Vespasian — ^Titus
loured with Tyrian purple, and — Plotina, tiie Consort of Trajan —
enriched with gold and precious Adrian — ^Antoninus Pius I — ^Faus-
stones ! ! Torso of a Faun f I tina the elder »^— Annius Verus, the
Third Corridor. The ceiling of infant Son of Marcus Aurelius« —
this immense Gallery is adorned Marcus Aurelius Antoninus <'^—
with paintings, representing the Commodus — Septimius Severus —
revival of the Arts and Sciences, Caracalla — and Greta,
with other historical subjects ; in Adjoining to the third Corridor,
which are introduced portraits of and not far distant from the Sta-
all the most eminent Characters tues of Marsyas, is an interesting
among the Florentines. On each Apartment, called The Cabinet of
C6) Placed near the windows. ^. ,. (d) Here are four Busts «( parens Awe-
W Here are two Busts of this Child j one lius ; that which represents h»m m the men^
beui^ finely exMOted, the other yery inferior, dian of we being the finest.
fa
FLORSNCSL [Clu III.
Acuipture tf ^ fifteenth etniury ; presenting S. Fraxieu XaTier, 8.
and containing six BassirnHevi, by Joieph, and S». Teresa, by Soldani
Benedetto diKoveizano, represent* —and a recumbent Statue, by
ing the Life of S. Giovanni Gual- Vecchietta of Siena. Copte*.— The
l)erto— -six Bcust-rilievi, by Luca Venus de' Medici— the Arrotino —
della Robbia, intended as interior the Wrestlers— and the Faun of the
decorations for the Duomo at Flo- Tribune, all by Soldani— the Toi»
rence — ^two unfinished Bam-rilie' Fomese, found buried in the earth*
vi, by the same artist ; one of near Artindno — a small but admi-
which represents S. Peter delivered rable Comr of the Laocoon — and a
from prison, and the other the Bust of Michael Ahgelo.
Crucifixion of that Apostle— four Cabinet of antique Bronzes;
Bam-rilieoi, by Donatello, in- enclosed in fourteen glass-cases-
tended as interior decorations for the first of which contains, Apb,
the Duomo at Florence, and form- Jupiter, Neptune, Pluto, and a
in^ aT)ance of thhty Genii — an un- remarkable Head of Saturn ; Juno,
fimshed Basso-rilievo, by Michael with Etruscan characters on her
- Angelo, which represents the Ma- hip f a Grecian Bust of Minerva;
donna, the Infant Saviour, and S. «^c. Second case. Venus with
John — ^a Basso^rilievOf by Antonio her attributes — a celestial Venus
Rossellino, which represents the —a triumphant Venus-^an Her*
Madonna adoring the Infant Savi* maphrodite ! — an Amazon ! — ^Mars
our — a Basso-ruieoo of S. John^ armed, ^. Third case. Hercules,
in touchstone, attributed to Dona- Bacchus, and Bacchantes — a Faun
te^o — ^a Bust of Pietro de' Medici, blowing ihe Dorib flute — ^the La-
l^ Mino di Fiesole — ^a portrait of hours of Hercules represented by
a Female, in the style of Donatello a multitude of small Statues — a
— a Bust of Macchiavelli, executed Genius ^ving ambrosia to Bac-
in 1496, author unknown — a Sta- chus I Fourth case, Victojty, For*
tue of S. John, by Micheloszo Mi- tune. Genii, Egyptian divinities;
chelozzi — ^and a BMso-^ievo^ by among which is a Deautilul Serapis,
Andrea Verrocchio, the master of and Isis, crowned with a disk,
Leonardo da Vinci, . holding Horus on her lap. F^th
' Cabinet of modem Bronzes, case. Etruscan divinities ; a very
Originals. Mercury standing on fine collection. Sixth ease. Por-
the wind, by Giovanni di Bologna 1 1 traits of men and women ; fi*ag-
— two small models of this fine ments of Statues, beautifully exe-
work, and a model of the seizure cuted ; and a small Skeleton,
of the Sabine Virgins, attributed Seventh case. Animals of various
to the same great Sculptor — six kinds, which served for votive of-
Statues, by Giovanni di Bologna, ferings, Symbols, and military En*
representing Juno, Venus, Vulcan, signs ; a Hippogryph, a Chimsera ;
Apollo, &c. Over the door of en- a Bull with a man*s head ; a Ro-
trance to the second Cabinet is a man Eagle, which belonged to the
fine Bust of Cosmo I, by Cellini — twenty-fourth Legion — and an
this Cabinet contains a Model in Open Hand, called by the Romans
wax, and another in bronze, of Manipultcs. Eighth case. Sacri-
Perseus, by Cellini — Abraham's ficial instruments, Altars, and Tri-
sacrifice, byGhibertil — the Sta- pods; a curious Sistrum ; a mural
tue of a Child with wings, at Crown, ^. Ninth case. Cande-
tributed to Donatello— David, by labra and Lamps. Tenth ease.
Verrocchio — an anatomical Statue, Helmets, Spurs, Bits, ^c. for
by Cigoli — a Basso-rilievo repre- horses; Rings, Bracelets, Ear-
senting a Battle^&im-n/i€t^' re- rings, ail made of gold ; Minon
Df white m^A ; and N«tidleft made in Greece, uxl oihen in the Island
of hair. Eleventh cate. Aneient of Elba: the nif^or pert, however,
Insciiptions graven on bronze-^a eame from Volterra, Ajreizo, Oi^
Manuscript, on wax, nearly efflused betello, and Sarteano, near thfe an-
-^-Homan Scales and Weights ; ^. eient Clumum ; which last named
Tuyelfih and Thirteenth ea8e9, IQt-^ spot fltmiahed about eight hun*
Chen Uten^ils^— a silver Bisk ! on dred. Two of an uncommon size
which is engraved, "bavins Arda- adorn tiie Armoire numbered X.
burius, who was Consul of Rome Some of the handsomest are hi-
hi 342. Iburteenih 'cMe. Locks, . scribed with Greek oharactera ;
Keys, and some Monuments of the and one of these adorns the centre
jprimitive Olmstians ; among which of the Armoire numbered V. The
is a Laim> in the shape of a boat, finest Vase, with respect to Ibrm,
with a igare of S. Peter at the is black, and stands m the centre
stem. Middle of the cabinet. The of the Armoire numbered III. The
Head of a Horse ! An Orator, next Armoire, numbered IV, con-
with Etruscan Characters engraved tains a pair of Vases precise^
on his robe!! this fine statue was alike: and the Vases in the Ar-
fbund near the Lake of Peruria — moires numbered I, II, III, IV,
a Chimera, with Etruscan uha- and VIII, are all Etruscan. The
racters engraved on one of the legs !! ground of Etruscan Vases appears
it was found near Arezzo-*An to be almost universally black;
Etruscan Statue of a Genius, or, and the paintings found upon them
perhaps, a Bacchus, found at Pe- usuaQy r^resent national fames,
saro*!!! A Mitierva, injured by combats, and the coronation of
fire, but very beautiful; on the victors. This Cabinet Ukewise
helmet is a Dragon, the symbol of comprises terra^cotta Lamps, and
vigilance and prudence I ! This Figures of Animals; which, ac-
atatue was found near Arezzo, and cording to Caylus, were offered
one arm has been restored. Be- by indigent persons to the gods, in
hind the Chimaera is a Torso ! and, place of Victims,
before it a Tripod ! supposed to Hall of Niobe. At the upper-
have belonged to a temple of end of this magnificent apartment
Apollo. Tlie cabinet likewise con* is the celebrated group of Niobe
tains four Busts, found in the sea^ and her Youngest.. Child ; sup-
near Leghorn ; they appear to be posed to have been done by Sco-
Oredan sculpture; and one of pas; and generally considered aa
them resembles Homer'. the most interesting effort of the
Cabinet ^ancient Vases in ter- Grecian chisel Italy can boast : it
ra cotta* This Cabinet is embel- is not, however, perffect ; as one
lished with a pretty Statue, sup- of the mother's hands, and one of
posed, from its pensive attitude, to the child's feet, have been re-
have orignally represented the stored. Round the apartment are
Genius ofDeath ; but restored, by statues of the other Children of
mistake, as a Cupid. The Vases Niobe ; which seem the work of
are all denominated Etruscan; various artists. The Daughter,
though some of them were found next to Niobe, on the left, is ad-
{(b) WiBckelmaaii M«mi to hay6 thought stAtUM existed mnch earlier than ia Oeeeee.
this fine atatve the work of a Gracian arttet | We ave told that Romnhig had his statatf
eapecially ae Pemro was a Grecian eolony. made of bronie, probably by an Etroscaa
(f) The Etnucan Brontes of tbe Floren- artist; we are likewise told that this ereat
tine Gallery are snpposed to hate been exeoat- ooourred abont the eighth Olympiad » •"« >*
edat a period when Senlptnre of this sort does w»t appear that the ?"f^* J^'*** ^*
had nMM its aeoitk oC Mhetian ia Btru* brwM tiU »Wt the sixue^ OlympM-
ria; where, according to Taasanias, bronze
^ •
04
FLORENCE.
tCh. Ill*
loirably executed ; the opposite beth, Duchess of Mantua, by An-
Statue, on the right, has great dreaMantegna — Jesus arrested, by
merit ; the Dead Son is wonderfully Soddoma — a Man with a Monkey
fine ; but, considering the fable, on his shoulders, by Annibale Ga-
it appears extraordinary that the racci! — ^the Madonna entreating
sculptor should have placed him our Saviour to bless the Charitable,
on a cushion. The two Daughters, called the Madonna del Popolo,
on each side of the Psedagogus, by Baroccio !! — Portrait of Julian
and the third Statue, on the left de* Medici, Duke of Nemoiurs, by
of the entrance door, have great Alessandro Allori — Small picture
merit. It is extremely to be re- of a Female, by Holbein — ^portrait
gretted that these chefs-d'cewm'es of Elizabeth Brandts, the first
of art are not disposed in such a Wife of Rubens, by that master ! —
manner as to accord with the the Dispute in the Temple, by Ca-
subject. ravaggio — ^portrait of Gahleo, by
The second Statue on the left Subterman! — ^the Magdalene, by
of the entrance-door is a Pysche, Carlo Dolci ! — S. Peter healii^ the
and has nothing to do with the lame Man at the Gate of the Tem-
tragedy of Niobe ; but was intro- pie, by Cosuno Gambo-ucci I —
duced merely to ornament the apart- Head of S. Peter in tears, by Vol-
ment ; as likewise was the Statue terrano — the same subject, by Lan-
of a youth kneeling, and appa- franco! — ^theVirginingrief,bySas-
rently wounded ». soferrato I — ^por&ait of a Pnncess
The walls of this room are resembling Mary, Queen of Scot-
adorned with the following Pic- land, by Vandyck — portrait of the
tures. — Portrait of an old person. Sculptor, Francavilla, by Porbus —
supposed to be the Mother of Ru- portrait of Vaneelista Scappi, by
bens, by Vandyck — a Wild-boar Francia — a Bacdianalian Parfy,by
Hunt, by Snyders ! — Henry IV, of Rubens I — Philip IV, of Spain, on
France, at the battle of Ivry, by horseback, by Velasquez — S. Clo-
Rubens — ^the triumphal entry of vis of the Cordeliers, . Bishop of
Henry IV into Paris, by Rubens — Toulouse, praying to the Madonna,
a Fortuneteller, by Gherardo delle by Carlo Dolci— the Infant Jesus
notti — and the Aladonna and In- with Angels, by Albano — ^the Em-
fant Saviour, Mary Magdalene, press S*. Galla Placidia, being a
David, ^c, attributed to the same portrait of Felicia, second Wife
master. of the Emperor Leopold, by Carlo
Cabinet of Baroccio, The Ado- Dolci.
ration of the In&nt Jesus, by This Cabinet contains fourTa-
Gherardo delle notti — ^the Deposi- bles of Florentine Mosaic Work,
tion from the Cross, by Bronzino — called Opera di Conmies^oK Tlie
the Madonna, the Infant Jesus, octagon Table in the centre of the
and S. Anne, by Luini — a Story Cabmet displays topasses, onyxes,
from Ariosto, by Guido — Eliza- agate, lapis-lazuh, ^. It oocu-
(j) The Statues placed in this Hall, to re-
present the Tragedy of Niobe, and found at
Rome, near the Porta-Ostiensis, are sixteen
in number reckoning Pcedagorns. We learn,
however, from Homer and Propertius, that
Niobe had only six sons and six daughters ;
the former of whom fell by the hand of Apol-
lo, and five of the latter by that of Diana.
Other writers say, Niobe had fourteen child-
ren; but, at the same time, admit, that one
«f them (Chloris, who married the Monarch
of Pylos) was spared. The Group, therefore,
ovght not to oonsitt of more thaa thirteen, or,
at the utmost, fifteen persons. Mr. Cockerell,
an able and ingenious English architect long
resident in Greece, supposes this (jroap to
have been the decoration, for the tympan of
the pediment of a temple, and whoever ex-
amines the decorations of ancient temples
must coincide with him in opinion.
(A) Florentine Mosaic-work, called Opera
di CommetsOt consists of sparks of gems, and
minute pieces of the hardest and most precious
marbles, so j^laced as to imitate flowers, in*
■eetiH and paintings of every description*
Ch. III.] PLORENCE. 65
pied the time of twenty-two artifi* — ^two Children and a Goose, sup-
cers for twenty-five years, and cost posed to have belonged to a foun*
forty thousand sequins. tain — a beautiful Infant crowned I
Cabinet of Inscriptions, Besides — a colossal Head of Alexander,
a considerable number of Greek Grecian sculpture, and particularly
and Latin Inscriptions, here are se- fine ! ! — ^a colossal Head of Juno—
veral interesting Heads and Busts'; and a colossal Head of an old
namely — ^Brutus, by Michael An- Person with a beard; but whom
^elo, only just begun ; and above it rq)resents is unknown !
it the ^rst work of that great ar- Cfabinet of Egyptian Antiquitiet.
tist (the Head of a Satyr) executed Fixed in the w2I on the left of the
when he was but fifteen, and the door of entrance to this Cabinet is
cause of his introduction to the a very curious Tablet in high pre-
Platonic Academy. — Cameades — servation — ^the Basao-rilievo op-
Scipio! rare — Sappho — Solon ! — posite to the Mummy, and that
Head of an old Man admirably below the window, merit notice*
? reserved — Anacreon — Head in the first on account of its size and
iapis Suillius, supposed to repre- execution ; the second because it
sent Euripides — Marcus Antonius represents several trades ; a very
the Triiunvir, a colossal Bust, and uncommon circumstance. Front-
very rare — Demosthenes — Cicero ! ing the window is a well-preserved
— and Plato ! — ^the last very rare. Mummy on a Bed of modem
and displaying the name of the workmanship, imitated from an
philosopher in Greek characters. Egyptian painting. 'Here likewise
Here likewise is a valuable Basso- are the Coffins in which the Mum*
rilievo, supposed to represent the my was found ; curious Papyri,
Earth, Air and Water — and the and three Glass Cases filled wi^
centre of the Apartment contains Vases, Idols, small Mummies of
an Altar of granite, with Figiu^s various Animals, ^. ^.
in alto-rilievo, and a Statue charged Cabinet containing Portraits of
with Hieroglyphics (probably an Painters, chiefly done by them-
Osiris) resting on the Altar. On selves. In &e centre of this
each side of this Statue is a small apartment is the celebrated Vase
Idol, and behind it a Figure of a of the ViUa Medicis, adorned with
larger size, seated. This Work, Bassi-rilievi representing tiie sa-
called Pompa Isiaca, is supposed orifice of Iphigenia ! ! — The ceiling
to be anterior to the time of is painted by Pietro Dandini:
Adrian. round the walls are portraits of
Cabinet of the HermaphrodHe, Raphael, Leonardo da Vinci, Mi-
The Chef'dcBuvre of Grecian chael Angelo, Titian, the Carac-
Sculpture which gives its name to ci Family, Domenichino, Albano,
this Apartment reposes on a Lion^s Guercino, Guido, Vandyck, Ve-
Skin, and resembles the celebrated lasquez, Rembrandt, Charles Le-
Hermaphrodite of the Paris Gal- Brun, Vander-Werf, ^c, ^. The
lery. Near the door of entrance apartment which communicates
are two Fragments, one of which with this, likewise contains Por-
(in Parian marble) seems to have traits of Painters. — ^The ceiling
represented Bacchus, or a Faun, is painted by Bimbacci; and in
and is highly estimated ; the other the centre of the room is a mag-
(a Torso of basalt) appears to have nificent Table of Florentine Mo-
been done by a distinguished ar- saic work. — ^Round the walls sre
tist This (Jabinet Ukewise con- Portraits of Mengs, Batoni, Rey-
tains Hercules strangling the Ser- nolds, Angelica Kauftnan, Canova,
pents sent by Juno to devour him ! and Madame Lebrun : and here
6g FLORENCE. [Ch. III.
is, also, a marble Bust of Mrs. Da- apartment is ornamented mih
mer, done by herself. iine Columns of oriental alabaster.
Cabinets containing Pictures of and verde antique; and contains
the Venetian School. Portrait of a most valuable collection of
Sansovino, by Titian — ^portrait of Gems, ^c. (most of which were
an Old Man, by Morone — our collected by the Medicean Princes)
Saviour dead, by Giovanni Bel- together with a Table of Florentine
lino — a Figure in a Spanish dress, Mosaic-work, executed when the
by Morone — ^the Madonna, our manufacture was in its infancy.
Saviour, S. John, <J»c., by Titian — and representing the ancient Port
portraits of all the Bassano, or, of Leghorn,
more properly speaking, the Da Cabinet containing Pictures of
Ponte FamDVr with Titian and his t?ie French School, The ceilings
Wife in the background, by Jaco- of this apartment, and those which
po Da Ppnte, called Bassano ! — communicate with it, were painted
portrait of the Venetian Admiral, by the Poccetti-schooL Among
veinerio, by Tintoretto — Venus the Pictures by French artists are—
with her attendants, and Adonis Portraits of Alfieri, and the
dead, by Bonvicino — ^portraits of Countess d'Albany, by Fabre
Francesco Duke of Urbino, and Xavier, of Montpellier — Theseus
his Duchess, by Titian I — four raising the enormous stone under
heads, by Paolo Veronese, Paris which his Father hid the sword
Bordone, Tiberio Tinelli, and Cam- Theseus was to take to Athens, by
pagnola — portrait of a Person Nicolas Poussin — Bust of a Man
dressed in red and black, and clothed in black, by Philippe de
leaning on a table, by Paris Bor- Champaigne — ^the Repose in Egypt,
done — two Dogs, by Bassano— by Bounion — ^a Landscape, by
the Madonna, the Infant Jesus, Gasparo Poussin — Venus and
and S. Antonio, by Titian I — ^por- Adonis on Mount Ida, by Nicolas
trait of Giovanni de' Medici, the Poussin — and two Battle-pieces,
fkthe* Cosimo I, by Titian I — the by Boi?;ognone. — In the centre of
Marriage at Cana in Galilee, by the Cabinet is a Statue of Venus
Tintoretto — ^portrait of a Man in extracting a thorn from her foot ;
black with red hair, by Bordone — and likewise the Statue of a Youth
portrait of Pantera, when old, with examining one of his feet, which
a book in his hand, by Morone — appears to have been wounded,
the Madonna, our Saviour, and Whom this Statue was intended
S. Catherine, who is offering him to represent seems doubtful.
a pomegranate, by Titian ! ! — and Cornet containing Pictures
4^he portrait of a Woman with of the Flemish School. Bust of
flowers, commonly called The a Man wrapped up in fur, with a
^ora! by the same master— a cap on his head, by Denner I — Ve-
•Warrior, by Sebastiano del Piombo nus and Adonis, by Rubens — Por-
— a Head, by Morone — ^the Last trait of a Man in a black cap
Supper, by Bonifazio — ^the Cruci- with, a paper in his right hand, by
fixion, by Paolo Veronese — ^por- Holbein ! — a Landscape at sunset,
Irait of Sansovino in old age, by by Claude ! — Portrait of South-
Tintoretto — ^portrait of a Knight well, by Holbein — the interior of
of Malta, by Giorgione — portrait a Church, by Peter Neff— Fruit,
of Catherine Comaro, Queen of by Abraham Mignon — Gamesters,
Cyprus, in the character of S. hy John Van Son — the inside of a
Catherine — ^portrait of a Geome- prison where the death of Seneca
trician, by Pahna Vecchio. is rqiresented, bv Peter Neffil — ^
Cabinet of Qems^ ^« This portrait of Sir Thomas More, by
Ch. III.]
FLORENCE.
e;
Holbein — a small picture of Fran- Caravaggio! — Bust of the Ma-
cis I, of France, on horseback, by donna pressing the Infant Saviour
Holbein— and another view of tlie to her bosom, by Carlo Cignanil
interior of a Church, by Peter —a Landscape with Persons sing-
Neif. ing, by Guercino — Europa, by Al-
Cabinet containing Pictures of bano — ^the Massacre of the Inno.
the Dutch School, Peasants at cents, by Dosso Dossi — the Ma-
table, by John Steen — a Woman donna, the Saviour, and S. John
selling Fritters, by Gerard Dow-^ with Joseph in the background,
a, Miser, painted in the style of by Schidone — the Madonna, th^
Rembrandt, by Horace Paulyn— Saviour, and 5. John, by Massari
a Man with a Lantern, byAdiian — the same subject, by Guido—
Van Ostade — a Schoolmaster Diana's Bath, by Solimene — tlie
teaching fi Child to read, by Ge- Breaking of Bread, by Palma
rard Dow! — a Peasant's Family Vecchio — Rock- scenery, by Sal-
in their cottage, by Rembrandt-— vat or Rosa! — and tlje Annuncia-
nine pictures by Fr^mcis Mieris, tion, by Garofolo,*!
namely, a Charlatan exhibiting his Cabinei, called the Tribune,
tricks — an old Lover and his Mis- This elegant apartment, built after
ti'ess — a Man seated at table, with th^ desi^ ot Buontalenti, and
a bottle of beer ; and near him, paved with precious marbles, con-
si Woman and a Man asleep — the tains admirable specimens of sculp-
portrait of the Son of Miens — ^his ture aqd painting. Here is the
own porti'ait -^ ditto, in another Venus de' Medici, found inAdrian's
attitude — a Woman sleeping, and Villa, and supposed to have been
two other figures — the Pqinter's the w^ork of Praxiteles'! !! 1 — ^the
family—- and a Peasant cutting Apollo (called ApolUno! I) at-
bres^d, while his Wife drinks bper. tnbuted to the same great artist— t
—The Judgment of Solomon, by the dancing Faun I II evidently a
y ander-Werf— and the Saviour in production of the best age of an-
ihe Manger ! by the same artist — cient sculpture, and excellently re-
st Landscape, by Ruysdaal, which stored by Michael Angelo ^ — the
represents a storm going off— the 4rrotino I ! found at Rome, and
Adoration of tlie Shepherds, by supposed to represent the Scythian
Poelenburg — and two Landscapes Slave, when commanded to flay
with Cattle, by Adrian Vander- Marsyas — and the group of thp
velde. Lottatori, or wrestlers ' 1 1 found
Cabinet containing Pictures qf with the Niobe. The Venus de'
fhe Italian School, Venus re- Medici is about five English feet
posing, by Albano — two small in height ; the right arm, and tha
pictures by Titian, one of which left, from the elbow downward,
represents our Saviour at the are modem ; indeed the statue,
Jlouse of the Pharisee ; the otlier when first discovered, was broken
the Madonna, our Saviour, and in thirteen places. Pliny mentions
Angels — ^the Head of Medusji, by six famous Venuses ; one, by
(t) On the Base of the Venus de^ MeUici is
the oaine of Cleomenes, ao AtheDian, and the
•on of ApoUodorus. Some AHtiquaries there-
fore 8«ppo»e this ijitatue to have been ^U
work ; out their opinion is not well grounded ;
/or that part 'of the Base which l>eara the
Inscription was broken, and ha^ been restored :
ttpreover, the Inscription itself is of the
fifteenth contury : and as Cleomenes was not
a very celebrated sculptor, it seems improba-
ble tkfttMd should h»ve yrodaced a wpr)^ pre-
cisely in the gr^eful, delicate, and highly-
finished' style of Praxiteles.
(ft) The g^-eat anatomist, Mr. Bell, in hit
interesting Ob8erv^tU)ns upon Italy, expresses
ft belief that this btatiie was originaUy a
drunlten, not a dancing Faun.
(0 Winckelmann thought this work aot ai-
worthy either of Cephissodorus, wh? made
the S'fjmplegma atEphesus; or, of^^^^odovyxs,
who exe?uted a simflar group. These artists
mi^ th« wn» <rf Prwuteits.
6d FLORENCE. tOh. Hi.
Phidias, which stood under the donna, our Saviour, S. John, and
Portico of Octavia, at Rome ; an- S. Sebastiano, the two former
other, finished by Phidias, but seated, the two latter standing, by
begun by his pupil ; and this stood Pietro Perugino I — Six pictures
just without the town of Athens ; by Raphael, namely, a portrait of
another, at Rome, in the Temple Maddalena Doni, a Florentine
of Brutus Callaicus ; and a fourth, lady, in his first style — ^two Holy
by an unknown artist, which was Families, in an improved style,
placed in the Temple of Peace; though still partaking of the Peru-
another, made by Praxiteles, and gino-school — S. John in the wil«
veiled, was purchased by the peo- demess ! ! ! a portrait of Pope
pie of Cos; and the sixth, an Giulio III and another of La
/Undraped figure, was sent to Gni- Fomarina ! ! who was celebrated
dus : but this latter, the more ex- for her attachment to Raphael, all
ceUent work of the two, is sup- three painted in his last and best
posed to have been destroyed at style — a portrait, by Vandyck,
Constantinople ; as was the Olvm- supposed to represent Jean de
pian Jupiter of Phidias, the Juno Montford — and another repre-
of Samos, &c. It seems, there- senting Charles V, on horseback
fore, impossible to discover, from — Francis I, Duke of Urbino, by
the author just quoted, whether Baroccio — ^the Prophets, Job, and
the modest and beautiM Venus Isaiah, by Fra Bartolommeo della
de' Medici be, or be not, the child Porta ! — ^the flight into Egypt, by
of Praxiteles. This statue is Pa- Correggio ! — me Virgin adoring
rian marble. Among the Pictures the Inlant Jesus, by ditto ! — ^the
of the Tribune are, the Epiphany, Decapitation of S. John, by ditto
by Albert Durer — Endymion sleep- — Herodias receiving the Head
ing, by Guercino — a Sibyl, by the of S. John, by Leonardo da Vin-
same magic pencil — a Holy Family, ci! — a Madonna and Child, by
hv Michael Angelo — portrait of Giulio Romano — the Holy Family,
Cardinal Agucchia, by Domeni- by Schidone — Hercules between
chino — ^Venus, with a Love be- vice and Virtue, by Rubens,
hind her, by Titian — another Ve- Cabinets containing Pictures of
nus, withflowers in her right hand, the Tuscan School, Jesus sleep-
and at her feet a dog! also by ing on his Cross, by Cristofano
Titian — a portrait of the prelate, AUori — ^the Head of Medusa, with
Beccadelli, by the same master — the hair changed into serpents, by
a Holy Family, with the Ma^da- Leonardo da Vinci ! — a fine Head*
lene, and the Prophet Isaiah, (supposed to represent Raphael,)
by Parmigianino — three pictures, by Leonardo da Vinci — ^the Nati-
namely, the Circumcision, the vity, and the Circumcision, two
Adoration of the Magi, and the pictures in one, by Fra Bartolom-
Resurrection, by Mantegna — the meo! — ^the birth of S.John, by
Madonna, our Saviour, S.Fran- Fra Giovanni di Fiesole — S. EVan-
cescd, and S. John the Evangelist, cesco, by Cigoli — S*. Lucia, by
by Andrea del Sartol— the Ma- Carlo Dolci — small Portraits of
donna in contemplation, by Guido I Dante'and Petrarca, TuscanSchool
— ^the Massacre of the Innocents, — ^the Coronation of the Madonna,
by Daniello da Volterrall — the by Fra Giovanni di Fiesole — ^the
Holy Family and S. Catherine, by Epiphany, by Domenico Ghirlan-
Faoio Veronese — a Bacchante, dajo — S. Ive, reading Petitions of
Pan, &c., by Annibale Caracci ! ! Widows and Orphans, by EmpoU
— S. Peter, by Lanfi-anco — S. Je- — Bust of Andrea del Sarto,
rome, by Spa^oletto— -the Ma* painted by himself-«-the Decapita*
Ch. Ill] ^-LORENCE. 69
tion of Holophernes, by Artemisia Giovanni da San Giovanni, &c.
Lomi — the Adoration of the Magi, The flrst room up-statrs contains
containing Portraits of the Me&i ten Statues taken from the Villa-
Family, by Lippino — ^theVisitation, Medici; and the best of these is
by AlbertineUil — a sketch of the a Minerva. The second room con.
Adoration of the Magi, by Leon- tains Busts of Roman Emperors,
ardo da Vinci—the Holy Virgin likewise taken from the Villa-
enthroned, with the Infant Saviour, Medici. 0/A^ room# contain tiie
S. John, &c., by Fra Bartolommeo following Paintings. A Portrait,
— the same subject by Domenico byRembrandt— another, of Titian's
Ghirlandajo — the Descent of our Mistress, by himself— three Land-
Saviour into Purgatory, by Bron- scapes,bySpIvatorRosft— aBattle**
lino — a Child grasping a Bird, piece, by ditto ! I — Catiline's Con-
likewise by Bronzino — S. Zenobio, spiracy, by the same master — ^two
Bishop of Florence, recalling a Landscapes, by Rubens — ^Asb-o-
dead Child to life, by Ridolpho logers, by Zingona — Hunt«rs with
Ghirlandajo — the Corse of the game, by Giovanni da San Gio-
Saint carried to the Duomo, by vanni— our Saviour at supper, by
the same master— the Martyniom Palma Vecchio — a portrait of the
of S. Stephen, by Cigoli— ^Joseph Secretary S. Juliano, by Cristo-
nresenting his Father to Pharaoh, fano Allori— a Child, by Santi di
by Pontormo. Tito — our Saviour dead, S. John,
The Collections of Medals, Ca- the Madonna, and Mary Magda-
mei, and Intagli, Drawings and lene, by Fra Bartolommeo!! — a
JEngravings, which belong to the portrait of Giulio II, by Porde-
Florentine Gallery, cannot be seen none — the Deposition from the
by Foreigners without a special Cross, by Andrea del Sarto — ^a
order. Holy Familv, by Pordenone — ^the
The PcdazzO'Pitti^, now the Madonna aella seggiola, by Ra-
Royal Residence, was begun after phael ! ! I ! — S. Mark, by Fra Bar-
the design of Filippo di Ser Bru- tolommeo ! ! !— two Pictures of
nellesco, the most celebrated archi- Joseph and his Brethren, by An-
tect of the fifteenth century, and drea del Sarto— a copy of'^ Ra-
finished by Ammannati. In the phael's fresco of S. Peter delivered
Quadrangle is the Basso-rilievo of n'om prison, by Federico Zuccari
a Mule, who constantly drew a — ^the Madonna and Angels, by
sledge which contained the mate- Luca Giordano — S. Peter, by
rials employed in the building; and Carlo Dolci — our Saviour and
over this basso-rilievo is a Statue other Figures, by Cigoli — S. Se-
of Hercules, attributed to Lysip- bastiano, by Titian — ^two pictures
pus". On the Ground-Jhor is a of the Assumption, by Andrea del
Chapel, which contains a beautiful Sarto— the Hours, by Giulio Ro-
Altar of Florentine work, with the mano !— a Holy Famfly, by Titian
Last Supper, executed in pietre — S. Sebastiano, by Annibale Ca,-
dure, in its centre — ^the ceiling and racci— Cleopatra, by Guido — ^An-
walls are adorned with Frescos, of drea del Sarto and his Wife, by
which that representing theCru- himself— Giulio II, by Raphael! I
cifixion seems the best. The S. John, by Carlo Dolci— our Sa-
Grotind-floor likewise contains yiour and Saints, by Fra Barto-
fine Frescos, by Sebastiano Ricci, lommeo I— a dead Christ, by Pietra
(m) Lnea Pitti, an ostentations Florentine. (,) According to Winiclselmaan, this statne,
and the contemporary of Cosimo Pater tl»ingh ancient, is of a tome posterior to that
Pairia, began to erect this Palace ; but had of LysippQs.
«ot sofficient wealth to finish it*
j^d noRENCE. . [Ch.irr.
Perugino — a Madonna and other that she might avoid, by death,
Figures, by Raphael!— four Saints, the disgrace of swelling Scipio's
by Andrea del Sarto — the Ma- triumph.
donna, our Saviour, &c. by Fra While Pietro da Gortona was
Bartolommeo ! ! — Calvin, Luther, employed in painting the Camera
and Caterina a Boria! by Gior- di Venere, Ferdinando II, who
gione da Castel-Franco, one of feame to view the work, expressed
the Founders bf the Lombard- great admiration of a child drowned
school — the Madoftna, &e. by in tears. ** See, " replied the
Andrea del Sarto — a halWength painter, " with what facility chil-
Female Figure, by Carlo Dolci — dren are made either to laugh oi
Leo X, by Raphael ! ! — ^the Fates, weep ! " and, so saying, he gave
by Michael Angelo ! ! -^ our Sa- one stroke with his brush, and
Viour and the Madonna crowned, the child appeared to be laughing j
by Carlo Dolci — a Holy Family, till, with another stroke, he .re-
by Raphael t — a Magdalene, by stored the countenance to its ori-
"ntian — a Child, by Correggio — ginal form. ^
S. John, by Andrea del Sarto — a Ceiling of the Camera d Apollo,
Holy Family, by Schidone ! — and A Youth, who again represents
another very fine Picture on the Cosimo I, inspired with poetic fire,
same subject, painted by Raphael, and Apollo shewing him the celes-*
and lately added to this splendid tial globe, that he may sing of its
collection**. — ^The Ceilings of these wonders — Csesar attending to in-
apartments, up-stairs, painted by structive books as he walks, thai
Pietro da Cortona and his Scholars, he may not waste time — Augustus,
represent the patriotic actions of After having shut the Temple or
the Medici- family under emblems Janus, cherishing the Muses, and
taken from Heathen Mythology. listening to the iEneid— Alexander
Ceiling of the Camera di Ve- preparing to march, and taking
nere. Minerva forcing a Youth witn him part of the Iliad — thd
(by whom is meant Cosimo I,) Emperor Justinian forming a cod^
from the arms of Venus, to place of laws.
him under the guidance of Her- Ceilinfi of the Camera di Marte%
cules ; while the Genius of War Cosimo I, under the form of a
shews him the laurel-wreath he young warrior, leaping out of a
ought to aspire after — The Conti- boat, and combating with his lance ;
nence of Scipio — Antiochus quit- while Mars assists him, by darting
ting his Mistress, to go where lightning at his Enemies — Castor
duty calls him — Crispus, son of and Pollux carrying the spoils of
the Emperor Constantine, resisting the Vanquished to Hercules, who
the Solicitations of Fausta, his makes them into a trophy — Cap-
step-mother — Cyrus dismissing his tives loaded with chains suppu-*
prisoner, Panthea, that he might eating the goddess of Victory;
not be seduced by her charms — ■ Peace, with the olive-branch i<i
Augustus shev^ing Cleopatra that her hand, giving them comfort ;
her beauty had not power to capti- while Abundance revives, and scat-
vate him — Alexander receiving the ters blessings among the conquered
mother and wife of Darius wiUi people.
humanity, but without being be- Ceiling of the Camera di Giove.
trayed into faulty admiration of Jupiter receiving a young Hero»
the latter — Massinissa sending who still represents Cosimo I, and
poison to the Queen of Numidia, is conducted to Olympus, by Her-
(o) The disposition of the easel pictures in would be impossible to specify in wKat room
le FaUzzo Fitti is so often altered, that it each work may be found.
Ch.III.] FLORENCE. - H
cules and Fortune, in order to re- pauls, according to the size of the
ceive a crown of immortality. A party he attends ; and the servant
Genius holds his hands before the below stairs-expects two pauls.
Hero's eyes, to prevent their being The Giardino di Boboli, open
dazzled by the splendour of the to the public on Sundays and
Thunderer ; while another G^enius Thursdays, is very large, and con-
presents the young man's armour, tains several pieces of sculpture ;
perforated with javelins, to the the most remarkable of which are
goddess of Victory, who engraves two Dacian Prisoners, in oriental
his name upon a shield : she is porphyry, at the entrance ; a co-
supposed to have just begun, and lossal Ceres ; the 'Fountain at th#
only written the initial letter of end of the principal walk, de-
the word Medids. The Frescos, corated with a colossal Neptune
in form of a fan, represent the Em^ standing on a granite basin above
blems of Peace ; namely, Minerva twenty feet in diameter, with the
planting an Olive-tree — Mars Ganges, Nile,, and Euphrates b«-
mount^ on Pegasus — Castor and neath, all bj Giovanni di Bologna;
Pollux with their hdrses coupled Neptune, m bronze, surrounded
together — ^Vulcan reposing in his witn Sea-monsters, by Lorenzi;
forge — Diana sleeping after the and four unfinished Statues by
chase. Apollo, god of arts, and Michael Angelo.
Mercury, god of commerce and The Museo dhtoria NcUurale,
wealth, appear among the emblems collected by the Grand Duke Lee*
of peace ; while the General of the noldo, is said to be the finest
Vanquished is represented as mak* Museum existing, with respect to
ing ineffectual efforts to snap his the anatomical preparations in wan
chains ; in which attempt he is and wood, the petrifactions and
aided by Discord, who carries in minerals, and the thick-leafed,
her hand a torch to relume the milky, and spongy plants; which
flames of war. cannot be preserved in the eom»
Ceiling of the Stanza di Er-^ mon way, and are therefore beau*
cote. Hercules on the Funeral- tifully represented in wax, to com-
pile; above which is the Apotheo- plete the botanical part of this
sis of that Hero, wHom Mai*s and princely collection. All the ana*
Prudence conduct to Olympus, tomical preparations, in wax and
where he receives a crown of im- wood, were executed under the
mortalify. orders of Cav. F. Fontana, except
In an elegantly furnished Suite the famous representation of the
of Apartments, opposite to that Plague, which was done by the
Which contains the Pictures, are Abate Lumbo in the days of the
magnificent Vases of Sevres Por- Medici, and is so painfully fine
celain ; ornamented Clocks ; Ta- that few persons can bear to exa-
bles of Florentine Mosaic-work ; mine it. This masterly perform-
und Canova's celebrated Venus: ance owes its present place to Cav.
and in the Grand Duke's Library Giovanni Fabbroni, a gentleman
are the Manuscripts of Machiavelli already mentioned, who not only
aind Galileo, together with several contriouted essentially to the im-
other Manuscripts and Printed provement of the Museum, but
Works, which merit inspection. likewise to that of arts and sci-
The Palazzo- Rtti may usually ences in general. Below stairs is
he seen from ten to twelve in the a Laboratory. On the first floor
morning, and from three till five are two rooms fiUed with law
in the afternoon. The Custode up Quadrupeds, Fishes, *r^--7/ I-*-
stairs expects from four to six braiy— rooms destmed to iviecr?-
7SJ FLORENCE. [Ch.III.
nics, Hydraulics, Electricity, and Door. Over the southern Door is
Mathematics ; together with a Bo- a Group of the Madonna and our
tanic Garden : and on the second Saviour between two Angels, by
floor are twenty rooms, containing Giovanni Pisano. At the upper
the representation of the Plague, end of the Choir is a Crucifix, by
and Anatomical Preparations ; all Benedetto da Majano ; behind the
of which may be avoided by per- High Altar, a marble Pieth, said
sons not inchned to see them. In to have been the last work of Mi-
another suite of apartments^ on the chael Angelo, which death prevent-
same floor, are Birds, Fishes, Rep- ed him from completing ! ; and oil
tUes, Insects, Shells, Fossils, Mi- the Altars three Statues, by Ban-
nerals, Wax-plants, ^c. The Ob- dinelli, of God the Father, our Sa-
servatory makes a part of this Mu- viour, and an Angel. This Edifice
seum, which is usually open to the likewise contains statues, portraits.
Public every day, festivals except- and monuments of celebrated Cha-
ed, from eight in the morning till racters of the Florentine Republic*
twelve ; and again from three till On the right, near the great door,
five in the afternoon. is a Bust of Brunellesco ; next to
Santa Maria del Fiore, or the this, a Bust of Giotto ; further on,
Duomo, a Tuscan Gothic Edifice, are Pietro Farnese, General of the
was begun about the year 1290, by Florentines, and Marsilio Fecino,
Amolto, and finished about the the Reviver of the Platonic philo-
year 1445, by Brunellesco ; it mea- sophy ; a man, as remarkable for
sures (according to report) four his learning, as for the lowness of
hundred and twenty-six Paris feet his stature. Near the Door leading
in length, Its cupola was com- to the Via de' Servi, is an antique
pleted by the last-named architect ; Portrait of Dante, the father of
who has gained immortal honour Italian poetry ; whose tomb, how-
Dy the performance. Its Lantern, ever, is at Ravenna, where he died
designed by Brunellesco, is of solid in exile. This portrait was done
marble, finehr canned. The out- by Andrea Orgagna; and so highly
ward walls of this vast and gloomy do the Florentines venerate the
Church are incrusted with black memory of Dante, that the place
and white polished marble ; the where he often sat, in the Piazza
pavement is marble, and the balus- del Duomo, is carefully distin-
trades and pillars which surround guished by a white stone p. Near
the Tribuna were designed by Mi- this great poet, is the portrait of
chael Angelo, and ornamented with Sir John Hawkwood, a celebrat-
Bassi-rilievi by Bandinelli and ed General, (called by the Floren-
Giovanni del Opera. Toward the tines, Giovanni Acuto ;) and ano-
Via de' Servi, over a Door of cu- ther portrait of Niccolo da Tolen-
rious workmanship, is an Annun- tino ; and under the first-named
elation in Mosaic, called bv the picture is an Inscription, which
Ancients, Lithostratum, and exe- says, Acuto wa« a British Knight *».
cutedby Ghirlandajo: another spe- In the Chapel of S. Zenobio is a
cimen of the same kind is placed bronze Ciborio, by Ghiberti ; and
within the Church, above the Great the Door of the Sacristy was exe-
. (o) Dante was born at Florence, A. D. served in tbe martial contests between Pisa
1261. He fonght in two battles ; was four- and Florence, Sir John Hawkwood (having,
teen times appointed Ambassador, and once together with his followers, *• the white Corn-
Prior of the Repablic: but, nevertheless, pany," learnt the art of war under Kdward
without having committed any crime against III, of England,) was by far the most accom-
his country, he was stripped of his fortune, plished Commander ot his time : his last
banished, and even condemned to be burnt years were devoted to the Florentines ; by
alive. whom he was honoured with a magnificent
iq) Among the. foreign Condottieri who funeral in 1394.
Ch.III.l . FLORENCE. t5
cuted by Luca della Robbia, the Chains, seen here, and in other
inventor of painting upon glass'. parts of the City, are trophies won
The Can^pcmile, aGreco-Araba- by the Florentines when ^ev con-
Gothic c^uadrangular Tower of quered the ancient Porto-Rsano.
black, white, and red polished mar- The interior jMort of the Baptistery
ble, designed by Giotto, and bj^n is adorned with sixteen immense
in 1334, is two hundred and ei^ty granite Columns, which support a
Paris feet in height, and the most Gallery ; and between these Co-
beautiful Edifice of its kind in Italy, lumns are Statues representing the
The four Statues, on the side near* twelve Apostles, the Law of na-
est to the Baptisteiy, are by Dona- ture, and ^e written Law, all by
tello ; and one of these (called, by Ammannati ; except S. Simon,
its author, his Zuccone, or Bald- which, in consequence of the ori-
pate,) he preferred to all his other ginal statue being broken, was re*
works, partly from the beauty of placed 1^ Spinnazzi. The High
the sculptiu^, and partly because Altar is adorned with a Statue of
it resembled one of his friends* S. John Baptist in tiie act of being
The other statues are by Niccolo transported to Heaven by Angels ;
Aretino, Andrea Pisano, Giottino, and tnis group, and the Ornaments
and Luca della Robbia. of the P^pit, are by Ticciati. On
S. Giovanni, or the Baptistery^ the Ceiling are Mosaics by Apol-
supposed to have been originally lonius (a Grecian artist), Andrea
a Temple of Mars, is of an octan- Teffi, Gaddo Gaddi, ^c. The Pave«
gular form, with a roof somewhat ment is chiefly Ancient Mosaic.
Ske that of the Pantheon.- The and in one part represents the Sun,
exterior wsdls are incrusted with with the twelve Signs of the Zodiac.
S3lished marble ; and the two In ancient mosaic, likewise, is the
ronze Doors, done by Ghiberti, following Inscription, which may
after the designs of Amolfo, and be read either backward or for-
formerly gilt, are so peculiarly ward : *' En giro torte Sol cicloi
beautiful, mat Michael Angelo used et rotor igne '."
to say, they deserved to have been The Chiesa di S. Marco, be-
the gates of Paradise. The other longing to the Padri Domenicani,
door was executed by Andrea Pi- is a handsome Edifice, adorned with
sano, after the designs of Giotto, ^od sculpture and valuable paint*
The foliage and festoons, round mgs. On the ri^ht of the great
the first-named-Doors, are by Ghi- door are — a Crucifixion, by Santi
berths son, Bonacorsa; iheBasai- di Tito — the Madonna, our StL^
rilievi represent Scriptural Histo- viour, and Saints, by Fra Barto-
ries. On the outside of the Bap- lommeo I — and an old Mosaic, re-
tistery is a celebrated Group, m presenting the Madonna, ^. The
bronze, by F. Rustici, represent- Cupola of the Tribuna was painted
ing S. John Baptist with a Scribe by Alessandro Gherardini; and be*
and a Pharisee. The two por- hind the high altar is the Last Sup-
phyry Columns, on the sides of the per, by Sacconi. To the right of
principal entrance, were presented the tnbuna is the Serragli-cnapel,
by the Pisans to the Florentines, the Ceiling of which was painted
in consequence of the latter having by Poccetti ! Here, likewise, are,
guarded Pisa while its inhabitants the Last Supper, by Santi di Tito,
were engaged in subduing Majorca and the Supper of Emmaus, by
and Minorca: and the pendent Cav.Curradi. Further on, is the
(r) The Meridian ia this church is said to (s) " Phoebus drives on, obli^^e. his fierf
be the largest astronomical instrument in car/*
£arope.
H FLORENCE. [Ch. III.
SalViati-chapel,eoHipletelyincrust- best essences in Florence are fa-
ed with marble, and containing a bricated.
Picture, by Alessandro AUori, of The Church of the S. S. An^
the return of our Saviour fronr nunziata (a finely proportioned
Purgatory ; a Statue of S. John Edifice) contains a Fresco of the
Baptist, executed after the design Annunciation, done by a certain
of Giovanni di Bologna, by Fran- Bartolommeo ; who being, it is
cavilla ; bronze Bassi-rilievi, exe- said, at a loss how to make the
cuted after the designs of Giovanni countenance of the Madonna pro-
di Bologna, by Portigiani ; a Cu- perly seraphic, fell asleep, while
pola, panted by Aless. Allori ; two pondering over his work ; Und, on
Paintings, representing the Expo- waking, found it executed in a
sition and Translation of S. Anto- style he was unable to equal, upon
nino, by Passignano ; and, under which, he instantly exclaimed, " A
the Arch of the Chapel, S. Anto- miracle, a miracle ! " — and his
nino in marble, by Giovanni di countrymen were too fond of mi-
Bologna '. Leading down the racles not t« believe him ; although
Church, toward the great ^door, isi the Madonna's face is by no means
a picture, by Cigoli, representing so exquisitely painted as to be at-
the Emperor Heraclius, in the tributed to a heavenly artist. The
habit of a Penitent, bearing the open Vestibule^ leading to the
Cross; a fine copy, by Gabbiani, Church, is ornamented with several
of Fra Bartolomtaeo's celebrated Frescos ; namely, a Nativity, by
picture of the Madonna, our S»- Baldovinetti ; S. Filippo Benizzi
vioiir, and S. Catherine; S. Vin- induced to embrace the monastic
cenzio Ferreri preaching to the life in consequence of a vision, by
people ; and the Transfiguration, Rosselli ; S. Filippo covering a
by Paggi. The Ceiling of the nave naked Leper with his own shirt,
is painted by Pucci ! ; and the Cur- by Andrea del Sarto ; S. Filippo,
tain of the Organ, by Gherardini. while travelling toward Modena,
In this Church are buried two ce- reviled by Young Men sitting un-
lebrated men, Angelo Poliziano, der a tree, which being struck
and Giovanni Pico della Miran- with lightning, two of the Reyilers
dola, both highly famed for their are killed ; — this is by Andrea del
learning; and the latter was not Sarto; as are, S. Filippo delivering
only styled, " The phoenix of the a young Person from an evil Spi-
ficiences," but called, by Scaliger, rit ; — ^a dead Child restored to life,
- vA prodigy — a man without a by touching the garment which co-
fault!" — They both died in 1494. vered the corpse of the Saint — Wo-
The Sacristy of S. Marco con- men and Children kneeling round
tains a Statue of our Saviour, by a Friar, who is adorned with thp
Antonio Novelli • two Bassi-ri* relics of S. Filippo*s clothes ; —
lievi, by Conti ; and, over the first and seven Lunettes, on the other
Door, within-side, a Picture, by side of the vestibule. The Mar-
Beato Giovanni Angelico ! The riage of the Madonna, is by Fran-
Library is rich in Manuscripts — cabigio; the Visit of Mary to Eii-
the Cloisters are adorned with sabeth, by Pontormo; and the
Frescos, by B. G. Angelico, Poc- Assumption, by Rossi. This Cor-
cetti, Fra Bartolommeo, Carlo ridor contains a Bust of Andrea
Dolci, <^c. ,• and near the garden del Sarto. The Church of the
is a chapel, painted by Poccetti, Annunziata is loaded with orna-«
and now the Spezieria, where the ments : in the centre of the Ceiling
^ (0 One of the Oratories of the Chapel of Naldini; namely, the Resurrectioft ofLazftA
'^. Autonino contains two fine JPictures, by rus, and the Vit»on of Eaekiel.
Ch. III.] FLORENCE. n
is an Assumption, by Volterrano • Meucei : and near this, is the CKa*
who likewise painted the Cupola pel of Bandinelli, containing a dead
of the Tribunal In the Chapel Christ, in marble, supported by
which encloses the miraculous pio- Nicodemus ; the latter being a por-
ture, is an altar, adorned with silver trait of Bandinelli, by whom this
Bassi-rilievi ; two silver Candela*- group was executed. The Curtain
bra about six feet high ; two large of the Organ, representing the
silver Statues of Angels ; a Ciborio, Canonization of S. OiuUana, is by ^
beautifully worked, and embellished Romei. In a Corridor on the lell'
with a Head of our Saviour, by side of the Church, is the cele<»
Andrea del Sarto ; a silver Cornice, brated fresco, called La Madonna
from which hangs a CurtailT of the del Saeco/ff deemed the master-
same metal ; and an immense piece of Andrea del Sarto ; and at
number of silver Lilies, and Lamps, which Michael Angelo and Titian
which ei)circle the Altar. The are said to have gazed unceasingly./
Pavement of this Chapel is por- It is recorded, that the author of
phyry and Eg3rptian granite ; and, this beautiful work did it for a sack
in the adjoining Oratory, the walls of com, in a time of £unine. Here
of which are incrusted with agate, are other Paintings, by eminent
jasper, and other precious stones, artists ; and those in the Corridor,
is a Crucifix, by Antonio di San which contains the Madonna dd
Gallo. To the left of the great Sacco, y^ere done by Poccetti, who
door is a Picture of the Last Judg-> has represented the most remark-
ment, by Aless. AUori ; and ano- able actions of the Six Founders
ther, of the Cruciftxion, by Stra- of the Monastery. Another Cor-
dano : the Ceiling and Lunettes of ridor contains, Menetto preaching
the Chapel on tljis side, at the end before S. Louis, King of France ;
of the cross, are painted in fresco, Innocent IV, making his nephew
by Volterrano ; and contain a curi- Protector of the order of Ser»
ous old Picture, over the Altar, of vites, both by Rosselli ; and tha
S. Zenobio, and other figures. In Madonna in a car, by Salimbeni.
front of the High Altar, (which is Another Corridor exhibits Alexan*
adorned with a splendid silver der IV giving Religion power to
Ciborio,) are recumbent Statues, erect monasteries throughout the
the one by Francesco da S. Gallo, world, by Rosselli ; . Buontlgliulo
the other by Giovanbatista Foggi- resigning the Government of the
ni : and behind the altar is a Cha- Church, by Poccetti ; three other
pel decorated after the designs, and Paintings, by Salimbeni ; and, oa
at the expense, of Giovanni di Bo- the Ceiling, small Portraits of
logna, who was buried in it ; And illustrious Servites. The Refec-
whose Tomb is adorned with a Cm- tory is adorned with a Fresco, by
cifix and Bassi-rilievi, in bronze, Santi di Tito ; and, on the top of
executed by himself, for the Grand- the Stairs, leadingto the Noviziato,
Duke, by whom they were thus is a Fieth, by Andrea del Sarto,
handsomely and judiciously appro- deemed one of his best works:
prialed. The Chapel contains a this great Painter was buried in
ricture of the Resurrection, by the open Vestibule before the
Ligozzi ; a Pietd, by Passignano ; Church.
a Nativity, by Paggi ; and a Cu- The CMesa di Sa. Maria Mad*
poletta, by Poccetti I Leading from dalena dei Pazzi particularly de-
the high altar, toward the great serves notice, on account of the
door hi the opposite side of the Neri-Chapel, situated on the risrht
cross to that already described, is side of the Court leading to the
a Chapel, painted by Vinoenzio Church. The Altar-piece of this
76 FLORENCE. [Ch. III.
Chapel is by Passignano ; and its ter-room and Refectoiy of the
Cupoletta contains the chef-dcsu^ Monastery to which this Church
vre of Poccetti, representing the belongs, are embellished with the
Mansions of the Blessed!! In the works of Pernio, RaiFaellino
Church is a magni^cent Capella- del Garbo, and other celebrated
maggiore, incrusted with rare and artists.
beautiful marbles, and adorned The Chiesa di Santa Croce,
by twelve Columns of Sicilian built about the year 1294, by Ar-
jasper, with capitals and bases nolfo, and afterwards repaired by
of bronze gilt Here rest the re* Vasari, is a vast Edifice, better
mains of Sa. Maria Maddalena dei calculated to promote religious con-
Pazzi, surrounded with Bassi-ri- temptation than any other church
lievi of bronze eilt (expressing the at Florence. Over the Middle-
most memorabfe actions of her door of the Facade, is a Statue,
life), and four marble Statues, re- in bronze, by Donatello^-and at
presenting her most conspicuous the entrance of the Church, on the
virtues ; namely. Piety, Meekness, right, is the Tomb of Michael An-
Penitence, and Religion. Meek- gelo; who was bom, at Chiusi,
ness, with the lamb and dove, and near Arezzo, in 1474, and died at
Religion with a veil, are particu- Rome, 1563 ; but the Grand-Duke
larly worth notice ; especially the of Tuscany, jealous that Rome
latter ; the features through the should have the honour of provid-
veil being finely expressed. The ing a grave for this great and
Cupola is by Pietro Dandini ; and good man, ordered his body to be
the other Paintings, by Ciro Ferri removed thence, and buried in the
and Luca Giordano. On the right Church of Santa Croce. The
of the high altar is a Chapel family of Michael Angelo was
adorned with Frescos, by Sorboli- noble : and his parents were
ni, a living artist ; and on the left averse to his becoming an artist;
another Chapel, likewise painted which they deemed derogatory to
in Fresco, by Catani, a living ar- nobility : he, however, by unceas-
tist. This Church also contains a in^ importunities, at length pre-
fine Crucifix in wood, by Buonta- vaded upon them to let him follow
lenti; and the Curtain of the his natural genius. Sculpture,
Organ, by G. B. Cipriani, who Painting, and Architecture, are re-
has left no other work in Flo-, presented, in mourning attitudes,
rence, represents S. Maria Madda- sitting beneath the tomb of their
lena receiving the Communion Favourite; whose Bust rests upon
from the hand of our Saviour ! a sarcophagus : and a small Paint-
The first Chapel, on the right, near ing, by Michael Angelo, is in-
the great door, contains tne Mar- troduced among the ornaments
tvrdbm of S. Romolo, by Carlo at the top of the monument. The
Portelli ; said to be the only pic- statue of Sculpture, bv Cioli, is iU
ture he ever painted; and on the done; Architecture, by Giovanni
opposite side ofthe Church are, the dell' Opera, is more happily exe-
Visitation, by Ghirlandajo ; Christ cuted ; and Painting, by G. Batista
in the Garden, by Santi di Tito — del Cavaliere, better still : the bust
and the Coronation of the Ma- of Michael Angelo is by the last-
donna, by Angelico I The Chap- named artist ". The second tomb,
(u) Michael Angelo Buonaroti was not only about three miles distant from Florence ; and
deemed the most eminent Scnlptor and where the inhabit«nt8 were chiefly 8tone.cnt>
Architect of his time, bnt is likewise called ters and scnlptors; his nurse's husband fol-
the Founder of the Florentine, and French lowed the latter occupation; so that the
Schook of Painting. When an infant he was child's ipassion for thix art seems to hare beea
pnt out to nvse at the yiUage of Settignano, saeked in with his milk*
Ch, IIIJ FLORENCB. 7?
on this side, is that of Filippo Buo- This monument is by Ricci, now
naroti, the antiquary— the third, a distinguished artist; but, not
that of Pietro Michelli, called by long since, a peasant on the Mar-
LinnsBus, '« The lynx of botany chese Corsi's estate, near Florence,
—the fourth, that of Vittorio Al- The Bwroncelli- Chapel contains
fieri, by Canova : who has repre- Paintings, on the walls, by Taddeo
sented Italy mourning over the Gaddi ; and, over the Altar, a Pic-
sarcophagus of the Poet ; which ture of the Coronation of the Ma-
is adorned with masks, lyres, lau- donna, <J«. by Giotto. The Ric-
rel-wreaths, and a head of Alfieri, cardi-Chapel contains good Paint-
in basso-rilievo. The Florentines ings, by Passignano, Rosselli,
are not pleased with the shape of and Giovanni di San GiovannL
this monument ; neither do they Behind the high altar are paint-
like the manner in which the figure ings, by Agnolo Gaddi, repre-
of Italy is draped: and this last senting the Invention of the
circumstance, united with the late Cross \ The Niccolini-Chapd*
public revolutions, gave birth to the built after the design of Antonio
!bllowingy<?M desfyrit. Dosio, and beautimUy incrusted
'* Canova qnesta voita Vha sbagiiata, with rare marbles, coutaius fine
Fe ritolia vstita ed h spogiiata." Pictures by Aless. AUori ; statues
The fifth Monument, on this of Moses and Aaron, by Franca-
side, is that of Machiavelli ; erect- villa ! and a Cupola, painted in
ed 266 years after his death, at fresco by Volterrano, the four Si-
the expense of the Literati. The bvls, in the angles of which, are
sixth Monument is that of Lanzi ; cnrfs-d'ceuvres. This quarter of
near which is an Annunciation, in the Church likewise contains a
marble, by Donatello. The eighth celebrated Crucifix, byDonatello,
Monument is that of Leonardo together with Pictures of the Mar-
Bnmi, Aretino, the Historian; tvridom of S. Lorenzo, by Ligozii;
which bears a Latin inscription to the Trinity, by Cigoli I and the
this purport ; " Since Leonardo Descent of the Holy Ghost, by
died, Historv mourns. Eloquence Vasari ! Leading toward the great
is mute ; ana it is said that neither door, and opposite to the monu-
the Greek nor Latin Muses can ments already described, are the
refrain from tears.'* The ninth following: First, the Tomb of
Monument is that'of Nardini, a Cocchio— second, that of Carlo
famous musician ; and the tenth Mazzopini — ^third, that of Carlo
that of an equally famous archi- Marzuppini, Aretino, finely ex-
tect, Pio Fantoni of Fiesole. The ecuted by Desiderio da Setignano
Castellani- Chapel contains a Pic- — ^fomrth, that of Lami, by Fog-
ture of the Last Supper, by Vasari; gini — ^fifth, that of Pompeio-Jo-
a Monument to the memory of sephi Signorinio, by Ricci; who
Cav. Vanni ; and another to that has adorned this sarcophagus with
of M. B. Skotnicki; representing a beautiftil recumbent figure of
Grief as a recumbent female figure. Philosophy, whose countenance
veiled, and lying on a Sarcopha- expresses deep sorrow. Near this
gus, which exhibits a pallet, tomb is a Picture of the Resurrec-
brushes, and an unstrung lyre, tion, by Santi di Tito ; together
(«) The history of the Invention of the teemecU however, impotsible to aBcertain
Cross is as follows. In 356, Saint Helena, the which of the three was that whereon our Sa-
mother of Constantine, being at Jemsalero, vioursnffered; till a learned prelate took them
ordered the Temple of Venns, which profaned all to the habitation of a dying lady, placing
that sacred spot, to be destroyed; m doinr her first on one, then on another, and then on
which, remams of the Holy Sepulchre were the third, which she no sooner touched thas
disooTered; and likewise three crosses; it the iU&esft left her.
n FLORENCE. [Ch.nL
with ihe Monument of the great Day I ! and another of Nijarht ! ! all
and much injured GalUeo j erected by Michael Angelo— the Tomb of
by order of Viviani, his pupil. Lorenzo de' Medici, Duke-of Ur-
Tiie Bust of Galileo is by Foggini. bino; ornamented with a Statue
History tells us that Galileo was of that Prince ; together with a
at first interred in the Piazza Santa recumbent Figure of Twilight, and
Croce (which is unconsecrated another of Day-break, a]l by Mi-
ground ;) because he lay under ^hael Angelo ; and here, likewise,
suspicion of heresy, on account of by the same great master, is a
bis philosophical discoveries ; nav, Qroup of a Madonna and Child,
\t is even asserted that the family which, if finished, might, accord-
of Nelli (Viviani's executors) found ing to appearance, have proved the
some diflficulty in obtaining Jeave finest of his works ! !
to remove his bones into the The old Sacristy r built by Bru^
Church, almost a century after his nellesco, contains a porphyry
decease. Beyond this tomb is that Tomb, with bronze ornaments,
of Filicajq. At the bottom of the made to . enclose the remains of
Church is a Painting of the Re* Pietro and Giovanni, sons of Co-
surrection, by Aless. Allori ! and simo Pater Patrice, by Verroc-
the Pulpit merits notice, as it was chio.
executed by Benedetto da Majano. The Capella da" Medici, adjoin-
The Sacristy contains curious Pic- ing to the church of S. Lorenzo,
tures, in fresco, by Taddeo Gaddi; was begun in 1604, by Ferdinando
and, in the Monastery of Santa I, after his own design. Three
Croce, are Paintings by Cimabue hundred workmen were, for a con-
and Giotto. siderable time, employed upon this
^ . The Chiesa di S, Lorenzo, buijt building : but, latterly, the number
at the expense of a lady, named has been lessened ; and we have
Juliana, who lived during the already seen the ducal Family of
reign of the Emperor Theodosius, Medicis extinct, nay, perhaps, may
consecrated in^ 392, and rebuilt in see the Dukedom itself annihilated,
J 4 25, by Brunellesco, contains a ere the finishing stroke be given to
High Altar of beautiful Florentine this magnificent Mausoleum of its
work, done by command of the Princes. The building is octan-
Grand-Duke Leopoldo, and de- gular ; and the walls are beauti-
signed for the Chapel of Medicis : fully incrusted with almost every
awi, above this altar, are a Cru- kind of precious maible. Six sides
cifix, by Giovanni di Bologna, a pftheoct^^on are embellished with
Madonna, by Michael Angelo ; Sarcophagi of Egyptian and orien-
and S. John, by one of his scho- tal granite ; made after the designs;
lars. The Church likewise con- ofMichaelAngelo; andtwoofthem
tains the Tomb of Cosimo Pater (enriched with cushions of red jas-
PatricB ; ivio Pulpits adorned with per, which bear regal crowns of
bronze Bassi-rilievi, by Dona* great value. Here, hkewise, are two
tello; and a Ciborio of marble. Statues, in Jjronze, one of which is
together with an Infant Jesus, by by Giovanni di Bologna, and the
Desiderio da Setti^ano. . other by Pietro Tacc^. The sar-
The new Sacrtsty, or Capella cophagi are mere ornaments ; the
de" Principi, designed by Michael bodies of the Princes being placed
Angelo, contains the Tomb of Giu- perpendicularly under them, in a
liano de' Medici, Duke of Ne- subterranean repository.
- nours, and brother to Leo X, The Cappella de* Medici may be
ornamented with a Statue of the seen dailj^, trom ten in the morning
Duke; a recumbent figure of till four m the afbemoop.
Ch. III.] FLORENCE. 70
Hie Libreria Mediceo- Lauren'^ are, theTomb of Villanadei Botti,
ziana, one of the most elegant by Setti^ano ; and a Painting of
apartments of its kind in Europe, the Madonna, by Cimabue, sup-
Yi&s built, under the direction of posed to have been Ihe first work
Michael Angelo ; by whom the de- tie ever did in Florence * ; and near
signs for the Pavement also were the latter is the Martyrdom of 8.
executed. The windows are beauti- Catherine, by Giuliano Bugiardini ;
fully painted in arabesque by Ra- several of the figures in which pic-
phaePs scholars ; and the Manu- ture were designed by Michael An-
spripts, which compose this library, gelo. This part of the Church also
are well arranged, nighly valuable, contains a Madonna, in Marble,
and several of them finely iUumi* by Benedetto da Majano. In the
nated. Here are, a Virgil of the cnoir, behind the high-altar, are
thud century, written in capitals — Paintings representing the lives of
an old Testament of the twelfth the Madonna and S. John Baptist,
century — ^the celebrated Pisao Pan- all by Ghirlandajo ; they comprise
dects of the sixth century — the portraits of the painter mmselt, and
Psalms of David of the eleventh of several of his most illustrious
century — a Prayer-book beautifully contemporaries ; among whom are
illuminated — a Missal, painted by pietro, Giovanni, and Lorenzo de*
the school of Pietro Perugino — a Medici. The High Altar was erect-
'copy of Dante, written only twenty- ed in 1804 ; and the Altar-piece is
two years after his death — a Livy by Sabatelti. The adjacent Chapel
of the fifteenth century, beautifully contains a Crucifix done by Bru-
illurainated — the Geography of nellesco, for the fieimous Countess
Ptolemy (of the fifteenth century) who lived with Donatello. In the
—-the becamerofie of Boccaccio, next Chapel is a picture of Christ
written two years before his death raising the dead, l»y Agnolo Bron-
— a Homer of the fifteenth century zino ; and a ceiling by the same
—a Horace with Petrarca's own artist: the Tombs and the 5a*«-
hand-writing in it — a celebrated rilievi in this Chapel are by Gio-
3yriac Manuscript — ^the Life of vanni deir Opera. A Chapel on
Lorenzo de' Medici, <^c. <^c. the top of some steps, and imme-
This Library is usually open to diately opposite to that wherein the
the Public, except during the va- Madonna of Cimabue is placed,
cation, and on festivals. A trifling contains Paintings by Andrea and
fee is expected, by the Sub-Libra« Bernardo Orcagna ; who have re-
rian, for attending Travellers. presented Hell in one part, and
The Chiem di Santa Maria No^ Heaven in another! This Church
veUa, commenced in 1279, by two likewise contains, on one of its
pomenican Monks, is externally an Pillars, the Martyrdom of S. Peter,
unpleasing mixture of Greek and by Cigoli ; and a fine Painting of
Gothic architecture ; but the inte- the good Samaritan, by Aless. Ai-
rier is so beautiful, that Michael lori. The Paintings over the Door
Angelo used to call it his Sposa, of the Campanile are by BufFsd-
Over the Middle Door, on the in- macco ; and the adjoining Monas-
side, is a Crucifix, by Giotto — andr tery contains several valuable Pres-
to the right are the following Pic- cos by old masters ; among which
tures : an Annunciation, by Santi there is said to be a Portrait of
di Tito — a Nativity, by Naldinil — Laura*.
and the Resurrection of Lazarus, T/ie Chiem dOrsanmichele, one
by Santi di Tito. Here, likewise, of the eaxly specimens of Floren-
<w) Thi» is in a Ohapel to which you enter (*) The Spezieria of Santa Maria NovriU
bj-atepi. is celebratedfor perfumes, medicines, ^c.
80
PLORENCE.
tCh. III.
tine architecture, was originally a munion from our Saviour, is by
Market for Grain, commenced axj- Vignali. The Altar of the Holy
cording to the designs of Amolfo, Sacrament contains fine Sculpture,
and finished by Giotto, Taddeo by Andrea Contucci, da Monte-
Gaddi, and Orcagna. On the out- San Savino! near this is a Picture,
side are several pieces of sculpture, by Ghirlandajo, of our Saviour
namely ; Saints Matthew, Stephen, bearing his Cross I and the Trans-
and John Baptist, by Ghiberti ; S. figuration, by Pietro di Cosimo.
John the Evangelist, by Baccio da Itetuming to the Nave, in the first
Montelupo; Saints Peter, Mark, Chapel, is a Picture by Agnolo
and George, by DonateUo (the Bronzino, of Christ appearing to
last is psuticularly admired) ; S. the Magdalene ; and, next to this,
Philip the Apostle, S. Eligio, and is the Madonna, S. Sebastian©,
four other Saints in one group, by <J'C.; by Petrucci; copied from a
Nanni d' Antonio ; S. Thomas, by work of Rosso's. Beyond the or-
Andrea Verrocchio ; S. Luke, in gan, is S. Anne, the Madonna,
bronze, by Giovanni di Bologna I
and another Statue of that Apostle,
by Mino da Fiesole'. The inside
of this Church contains Sculpture,
by the revivers of the art.
The Chiesa di San Spifito, built
and other Saints, by Ghirlandajo ;
and, near this, is a Statue of our
Saviour holding his Cross, hy Tad-
deo Landini, from the original of
Michael Angelo, at Rome. The
Capella-Maggiore, by Michelozzi,
by Brunellesco, is, in point of ar- is beautiful in point of architec-
chitecture, the finest Church at ture, richly incrusted with precious
Plorence. On the right of the en- marbles, and adorned with Statues
trance-door is a copy, by Nanni of S. Peter and S. John. The roof
di Baccio, of Michael Angelo's of the Vestibule to the Sacristy is
Pieth, in S. Peter's at Rome. The one single block of stone. The
Picture of our Saviour banishing Sacristy contains an Altar-piece,
the Profane from the Temple, is by Filipj)o Lippi, of the Madonna,
by Stradano — ^the Stoning of S. our Saviour, Angels and Saints I
Stephen, by Passignano — and the and a Painting over the door, by
Group, in marble, of the Arch- Poccetti, of S. Agostino, and an
Angel Raphael and Tobias, by Angel in the form of a child ! The
Giovanni Baratta. The second architecture of the Sacristy is par-
Picture to the right of this group, ticularly fine ; and that of the
is by Filippo Lippi — ^the Picture Campanile much admired,
of the Madonna, our Saviour and The Chiesa del Carmine, begun
S. Catherine, by the same mas- in 1268, was nearly destroyed by
ter — and the Virgin appearing fire; and, in consequence of that
to S. Bernardo, is a fine copy accident, repaired, not many years
of a work of Perugino's. The since. The ceiling of the Church
Picture representing several Mar- and its Cupola . were painted by
tyrs, is by Aless. Allori — that, Stagi and Romei: subjects — ^the
representing the Woman detected most renowned Characters of the
in Adultery, is by the same mas- Old and New Testament— the Pro-
ter — and the beatified Chiara da phet Elias conveyed to Heaven in
Montefalcone receiving the com- a chariot of ^e — ^the Madonna
(^y) These splendid works owe their exist-
ence to a decree of the Florentine Republic*
importing that everv trade should (in order
to adorn the Market) furnish one Statue, as
the protector of its own avocation : and con-
seqoently S. Luke was furnished br the Jews
Md MotuiM; Sr Tbomaa hy the xetoU
traders; S. George by the cuirass and sword-
makers; S. Mark by the carpenters; S. John
the Baptist by the merchants; S. John the
Evangelist by the silk manufacturers; S.
James by the tanners ; Elijah by the handi-
eraftmen ; S. Stephen by the woollen maaa-
factnrers; and S. Matthew by the bankers.
Ch: III.J FLORENCE. 61
putting the veil upon S*. Maria to assist the Tloi*entines in the
Maddalena de* Pazzi — ^the beatified battle of Anghiari! The Cupo-
Angelo Mazzinghi in glory — and letta was painted by Luca Gior-
the Ascension of our Saviour into dano. To the right of this chapel
Heaven. On the right side of the is the Deposition from the Cross,
entrance-door is a Picture of our by G. D. Ferretti, under a Cupo-
Saviour on the Cross, "with the letta painted by Romei : and on
Madonna aud Magdalene standing that side of the nave not already
near, by Vassari — a Pieth by An- described is a Picture of S*. Maria
tonio Guidotti ; and a Picture of Maddalena dei Pazzi receiving the
S. Jacopo, by Lorenzo Lippi I The veil from the Madonna, by Fabbrini
dappella della S. S. Vei^gine del — a Nativity, by Gambacciani — an
Oarmine was painted by Masolino Annunciation, byPoccetti — and the
^ da Panicale, and Masaccio, his Adoration of the Magi, copied, by
disciple, the first person who at- Viligiardi, from the celebrated pic-
tained perfection m the revived ture of Gregorio Pagani. The Mo-
art ; but, as he died young, his nastery, to which tMs Church be-
.work was finished by Fiuppo Lippi, longs, contains Frescos by Vasari,
the son of Fra Fihppo. Leonsuxio Poccetti, ^c.
da Vinci, Fra Bartolommeo, An- The Chiesa di S. Trinita con-
drea del Sarto, Michael Angelo, tains a Nativity, by Ghirlandajo —
and Raphael, are supposed to have a Pieih, by Angefico ! — a Chapel
derived the greater part of their belonging. to the Sassetti-family,
knowledge from the study of these representing, in fresco, the life of
excellent paintings ; which repre- S. Francesco of Assisi, by Ghir-
sent the Life of S. Peter. In the landajo I — ^two Pictures in the Ca-
Choir is a Tomb by Benedetto di pella degli Usimbardi ; one repre-
Rovezzano. The Curtain of the senting S. Peter sinking, by Cris-
Organ, (which is one of the best tofano Allori I — ^the other S. Peter
instruments at Florence,) repre- receiving the keys of Heaven, by
sents the Madonna giving the sa- Empolil — with Frescos above, by
cred habit to Simon Stock ; and Giovanni di San Giovanni — a mo-
^as painted by Romei. But the dem Painting of S. Giovanni Gual-
most striking thing here, is the berto, in the act of pardoning an
Corsinir Chapel, magnificently in- Enemy, by Francesco Corsi — ^the
crusted with rare marbles, and Sermon on the Mount, by Rosselli
• containii^ the Sarcophagus of S. : — and an Annunciation, by Em-
^ Andrea Corsini, adorned with sil- poll, placed under a Cupoletta,
r^QX Bassi-rilievi / Over the Altar finely painted by Poccetti. "Die Sta-
is an Alto-rilievo, representing S. tue of S*. Maria Maddalena, be-
Andrea Corsini, (who, from a tween the entrance-doors, was be-
Monk, became Bishop of Fiesole,) gun by Settignano, and finished
-ascending into Heaven ; this is by by Benedetto da Majan'o I The
4Gr. B. Foggini ; and, above it is Refectory was painted by Gio-
God the Father in glory, by. Mar- vanni di San Giovanni, and Fer-
ceUini. , On the sides of the Chapel rucci.
are two marble Alti-rilievi, by The Chiesa di S. Ambrogio con*
JFoggini ; the one representing the"^ tains a Chapel adorned with Sculp-
Saint reading his First Mass, and ture, by Mino da Fiesole ; and
the Madonna appearing, and say- Paintings representing the Mira-
ing, " Thou art my servant ; I cle of the Cross, by Cosimo Ros-
'have chosen thee ; and in thee will selli. The Picture in the Cappella
'I be glorified :" the other repre- del Rosario is by Passignano ;
senting his Descent from Heaven and the small Fresco, representing
It FLORENCK. CQU. III^
the Madonna, our Saviour, and 8» dond by Francabig^o, At the en«
Anne, is by M asaeeio J trance of the Court aife figurea re^
The Church of 8. Gaeiano con* presenting Faith and Hojj^e ; and»
tains the best Oivan at Florence, on the sides of the opposite door,
and some good Pictures : thi Charity and Justice, all by An*
Church of Ognii*€mth likewise drea. The history of 8. John com<«
contains good Pictures; and the mences with Zacharias becoming
Conservatorio di Ripolu in Via diunb, on account of his inoredu-
ddla Scala, merits the attention of lity. — Second pamting, Mary visit*
IVavellers who have time to spare, ing Elizabeth-— third, Eluabath
TAe Rsale Accademia deile belle brought to bed-^fourth, Zacharias
Arti, founded by the Grand-Duke blessmg S. John, who departs £6f
Leopoldo, is open to public iniqpec- the Desert, (this is by Francabino)
tion at the same hours with the ^-iifth, S. John meeting our Sa«
Gallery, and merits notice, not only viour, as the latter returns from
on account of the liberality of the £g^tr (likewise by Francabimo)
institution, which gives all possible < — sixth, the Baptism of our Sa^
encouragement to rising genius, viour, by S. Johni>^seventh, SL
but likewise as it contains excel* John preaching in the Desert-^
lent Casts of the Baptistery-doors, eighth, the converted Jews reoeiv**
and most of the fine statues hi* ing Ba^tism^ — ^ninth, S. John ear*
thorto discovered in Italy. Here ried betore Herod. — ^tenth, Herod*a
is a noble Apartment, fitted up Supper and Dance— eleventh, the
with Drawings, ^c, for the use of Decapitation of S. John-— twelfth,
young painters ; other noble Apart* Herodias's Daughter with the head
ments, containing every necessary of S, John. It is recorded that
accommodation for those who are Andrea del Sarto received for each
further advanced ; a Gallery, con* of these frescos only twenty tivres %
taining paintings and sketches, by though many of them are exqui^
celebrated masters, among which sitely fine ; they will, however,
is a valuable Picture by Angelico, shortly be obliterated by the hu*
another by Giovanni di San Gio- midity of their situation, unlesa
vanni, of the Repose in Egypt ; restored in the manner now prac*
and a beautiful Head of our Sa- tised at Rome*,
viour, by Carlo Dolci. This Aca* The Palazzo-Gmini is adorned
demy likewise contains Schools for vnth valuable Rctures, though the
Architecture, practical Mechanics, finest part of this collection has
^. ; and here also the Florentine been recently sold. Among those
work in pietre dure, called Opera '^hich remain are, Firet room-^
di comme9So, is made. Charity, by Cignani ; and Hagar
Not far hence are Cloisters which in the Desert, by HosseUi. Secmd
formerly belonged to the suppressed room — Head of a ^ung Female,
Company of S. Giovanni Batista, by Correggio ! Third room — tour
but are now in custody of the Heads, by Nogari ; and two Pic*
Academy, where the key is always tures, by Bassano. Fburth room
kept: these Cloisters, commonly — a landscape, by Both; ditto,
oailed^Oratforto£^/oSfca/jiro,con- by Swanevelt ; and ditto, by
tain Frescos representing the Life Paul Brill. Fifth room— -Prome*
of S.John Baptist, all by Andrea theus, by Salvator Rosa! — Head
del Sarto,' except two, which were of our Saviour, by Stradano ; Head
(•) Fifteen iMllmgt. vellen round the Rof«l Acadeny likewise
(a) TKe person who unlocks the door of the expects from two to three panls, ftocerdiag to
Oratorio dello Scalzo expects two panls for the number of th« party.
hit tsmMiM \ Md tha p«n«B wW AttewU Tr**
.Cb. JII.j PLOKKNOfi. «S
of ft Femial^, by CajAo Dold ! 5f*- persons, who, in great measure,
vmih room — ^Two Landscapes, by maintain themselves, by making
Both. S. Sebastiano, by Gnerci- Phrygian caps for the Mediterra*-
no I and the Assumption, by Carlo nean mariners, ribbons, cloth, ear-
Maratta. Eighth room — our Sa* pets, ^c. ^, There are work-
viour in the Sepulchre, by Tiarini I shops of almost every description
a dead Nun, bv Vanni ; a small in the house; and the Grand-Duke
Picture, by Rubens I the MadoiH of Tuscany, much to his honour,
n% (mr 8aviour» and S. John, by supports and benefits tins benevo-
ooe of the Caracei Family ; two lent and useful institution, whioh
anmll Pictures, by Peter Neff ; has cleared Florence of the innu-
Iklid two small Landscapes, by merable mendicants by whom it
Vemet. The Madonna, our Sa* was formerly infested.
yiom, and other figures, by Fra The Spedale di Bomfcaio, or
Bartolottmeo. A portrait of Sal« Great Hospital, near the Porta
¥«tor Rosa, by himself; a Peasant San-Gallo, receives lunatics, and
playing ob a wind-instrument, by persons afflicted with chronie dis^
Muril£^ A Hol;f Family, by Ra* orders, and is spacious, clean, and
pbael ; a portrait of a Woman airy. The sick appear to be com-
Witb a Veil, by Santi di Tito ; and foitably lodged and well attended ;
an old Man with a Child in his but the funds belon^ng to this
arms, by Guido 1 1 charity are not sufficiently ample
The Palastto-Rieeardi, erected to supply convalescent patients
by Cosimo, Paier PairicBy accord- with a proper quantity of nourish*
mz \o the designs of Michellozzi, ment. Detached from the rest of
is a splendid edifice. The Ceiling the building are excellent apart-
of the Gallery is beautifully painted ments for lunatics,
by Luca Giordano ; the Ceiling of The Spedale di Santa Maria
the Library is by the same master; Nnova contains upward of a thoti«
and the ooUection of Manuscripts sand beds, and the patients are ex-
and Printed Worka is valuable. tremely well attended.
The Paiazzo^Corsini conioms 9i. The Spedale degV Innocenti
few good paintings. usuaUy contains three thousand
The Palazzo'Mozzi, near the Children, who have not, however,
Ponte a la Grade, contains fine a sufficient number of nurses ; and
Paintings, by Salvator Rosa. the custom of binding up everf
The Palazzo-Btwnaroti, in Via new-bom infant in swaddhng
QkibelUna, is interesting, from clothes frequently distorts the
havii^ been the residence of Mi* limbs, nay sometimes produces
chael Angelo, and likewise from mortification and death,
preserving some remains of his The Column of Saravezza*
woiics. marble, in Via Pomona, was
ThePalazzO'StrozziisAspleaSd erected by Cosimo I, in memory
specimeii of Tuscan architecture. of the Battle of Mareiano — the
The Palazzo- Uguccioni, built Grramte Column, near Ponte Santa
after the design of Michael Angelo, Trinith, was Iwrought from Rome,
eantains a Painting, by Perino del and erected at Florence by Cosimo
Vaga, of the Passage of the Isra- I, in memory of the conquest of
elites through the Red sea ! Siena. There is, on its summit, a
The Casa dei Poveri, in Via figure of Justice, which gave rise
dei Maioontenti, which owes its to the following proverb : ** Jus-
establishment to the Emperor Na- tice, at Florence, is too high to be
polecMa, is an immense Edifice, ca^ reached.'*' — the Column near the
paWa of k)dging three thousand Bo^isteryt in the Piazzo del
M J?LORENCK [Ch. 111.
Duomo, was erected to record a when polished, the variations of Its
Miracle, relative to the corpse of yellow and brown veins represent
S. Zenobio. trees, landscapes, and ruins of old
The bronze Wild-boar , in the walls and castles; several petri-
Mercato-nuovOf is a Copy, by Pie- factions are also found in this
tro Tacca, of the famous Antique neighbourhood,
in the Gallery de' Medici. The A long residence at Florence is
Pedestal adorned tvith Bassi-ri- deemed injurious to the sight,
lievi in marble, which stands near owing, perhaps, to that glare wmch
the entrance of the Church of S. proceeds from the reflection of the
Lorenzo, was done by Bandinelli, sun upon white houses, and like-
and represents Giovanni dei Me- wise to the fogs which prevail here
dici, father of Cosimo I, with Pri- in winter.
soners and Spoils. The Group This City boasts the honour of
of Hercules killing the Centaur, having given education to Dante,
Nessus, which stands near the Petrarca, Boccaccio, Gorilla, the
Ponte-Vecchio, is by Giovanni di celebrated/mprovt7i«a/rtc6,whowas
Bologna I — The Ptazza-Annun- crowned at Rome, Americo Ves-
ziata contains an Eauestrian Sta- pucci, (whose voyages to, and dis-
tue of Ferdinando I. Over the cover ies in, the new world obtained
Porta San-Gallo is a Fresco, by him the honour of calling America
Ghirlandajo ; and, just beyond the by his own name,) Machiavelli»
Gate, a magnificent Triun^hal Galileo, Michael Angelo, and a
Arch, erected in honour of the larger number of distinguished
Emperor Francis I, when Grand- artists than any other -j^Bce in
Duke of Tuscany. On the outside Europe.
of a house, near the Porta Romana, The Accademia delta Crusca,
is a Fresco, by Giovanni di San which has, for a length of years,
Giovanni, representing the City of been established at Florence, is too
Florence, under the form of a per- well known to need description ;
son clothed in royal robes, and the and this Academy is now united
other Cities of Tuscany as Females wijth two others, namely, the Fio-
paying homage to their Queen. rentina, and the Apatisti, vmd&r
The Ponte Santa Trinith, built the name of Reale Accademia Fio-
by Ammannati, is remarkably ele- rentina,
gant. There are several good Hotels
Florence contains three Thea- at Florence**, and the markets are
ires, the Pergola, or Opera-house, constantly well stored with excd-
a beautiful Edifice, well secured lent eatables, fish excepted, which
from fira, and originally built after is never fresh but on Fridays and
the design of Pietro Tacca — the Saturdays. The Florence wine is
Cocomero, smaller than the Per- good and wholesome, but the same
gola — and the Teairo Nuovo. report cannot be siven of the wa-
The Florentine Mosaic Work, ter, except that which comes from
and the Sculpture in Alabaster of Fiesole, and supplies the fountains
Pisani, in the Prato, and Bartolini, of the Piazza-Santa- Croce, and
in Via della Scala, are much ad- the Palazzo-Pitti. It is remark*-
mired. Tliis country is likewise able, however, that all the Flo-
celebrated for a sort of marble rence water, when analysed, ap-
which splits almost like slate, and» pears wholesome ; and oonse^
(i) The HAtel dei Armes d^Angleterre^ kept sells Aiiti>attrition Grease for wheels ; and
by Gasperini, is an excellent Inn, where din* likewise repairs English travelling carriages
ners, generally speaking, are better cooked, remarkably well. ShneidexjB^t is a rerjr ea-
and more comfortably served, than at the pacioas and good Inn. The QwUtri Naxumt^
ptbfr Hotels. Oatpemi bailda carriages ; and The Nuova York, are also good Ibos,
Ch. III.]
FLORENCE.
85
quently it seems propable that the exhibiting nothing like antique
noxious quality may proceed from costume, except the habit of the
copper vases in which it is drawn, charioteers,
and usually suffered to stand. On the morning of the Festa di
though large glass bottles, seciured S. Giovanni homage used to be
by a case of reeds, for the piupose paid by all the Tuscan cities to
of holding water, might be easily their Prince, but this custom is, for
met with. the present, abandoned, owing to
The climate of Florence is cold the pageants, which represented
during winter, very hot during the several cities, having been near-
sununer, but delightful in autumn ly destroyed by the Flrench.
and spring ^, . In the afternoon of this day is
Doctor Kissock, a skilful and the Corso dei Barbert, a race per-
experienced English Physician, re- formed by horses without riders*,
'sides in this City. and which, from the multitude of
On the Vigil of the i^(?«todt San spectators, the splendour of the
Giovcmni, (the Patron Saint of equipages, and the eallant appear-*
Florence,) is the Corso dei Cocchi, ance of the troops who attend their
or Chariot Race; probably an Sovereign, is an extremely gay
epitome of the ancient Etruscan sight. The horses have, fastened
Games. This exhitrilion takes to their bodies, little spurs, so con-
place in the Piazza of S** Maria trived that the quicker the ani-
Novella- At the upper and mal gallops, the more the^ run
lower end of the Piazza are obe- into mm. The race-ground is the
lisks, to each of which is fastened longest street at "Florence, where
a cord; its centre being held up many of the spectators stand, with-
bv six poles, supported by men out any defence whatsoever, fre-
clothed m ancient costume. Round quently meeting with accidents by
the Piazza, in an amphitheatrical ur^ng the horses on. When these
form, are scaffoldings, ornamented ammals reach the yoal, they are
with rough fresco paintings of stopped by a large piece of canvas,
yases, &c., which produce, how- which several men hold up ; the
ever, a good effect : at the upper Sovereign then announces the win-
end is the Royal Box, handsomely ning horse, and thus ends this
decorated: under the scaffoldings amusement, which is followed by
are posted horse and foot guards ; a pretty exhibition of Fire-works
and round the Piazza, above the at the Palazzo- Vecchio '.
scaffoldings, are balconies, win- The Game called PcUhne, a fa-
dows, and even house-tops, crowd- vourite exercise at Florence, merits
ed with spectators. Were the notice, because it was played by
chariots made in the ancient form, the ancient Romans ; who are de-
this exhibition would be far more scribed as striking the follis with
interesting ; but they are modem, the arm guarded, for that purpose,
in point of shape, and very clumsy ^ by a wooden shield; the mode of
(c) Persons who wish to preserve health
in Tuscany, should be careful never to eat
sweet things made with orange-flower water,
falsely so called ; it being, in this coantry,
a distillation from the Italian laurel-leaf.
{d) An extraordinary circumstance; as
the smaU wickerwork carts of the Tuscan
peasants in shape resemble ancient cars ; and
would, if slightly decorated, be quite proper
for die Corso dei Cocchi.
(e) This kind of race, according to Diony-
sius of Halicamassus, was one of the most an-
cient amusements of Etruria and Rome.
(/) ^o nniversal is the rage for splendoar
at this festival, that a milliner, at whose
house an English family lodged, absolutely
hired for the day, at a great expense, a coach
with two footmen in laced liveries, that she
might parade about the streets in style ; nay,
further, this Person and her apprentices,
though generally dressed in the plainest
manner poesible, were now adorned w»^'
diamonds*
IS ENVIRONS OF FLORENCE. [Ch. III.
playing continues precisely the rooms, tenninated by a terrace :
same to the present moment ; and and round the third story runs a
this game, like most of the ancient gallery which commands a pton*
exercises, is well calculated to give pect so extensive that it se«m8 td
eourage and strength. overlook all Tuscany. On the out-
The Environs of Florence are side of the house are noble por-
extremely interesting. The usual ticos.
airing of the upper ranks of per- Poggi Imperiale, about one milti
sons is to the Royal Farms , or from the Porta Romana, is a royal
Catdni; which are open to the Villa containing an admired Statu©
Public at all hours ; though it is of Adonis, by Michael Angelo ;
unwholesome to walk, ride, or drive, and Portraits of Petrarca, and
in these beautiftd farms very early Laura, by Albert Durer. The
in the morning ; and equally preju- prospects from this spot are beau-*
dicial to remain there after sunset, tiful ; and not far hence stands th«
Careggi de" Medici, about three Monastery of S. Matteo in Aree-
Biiles from the Porta San-Gallo, tri, near which are vineyards that
was the favourite retreat of Lo- produce the celebrated wine called
renzo il Magniftco; and in the Verdea,
Hall of this Villa the Platonic So- Pratolino, a royal Villa about
eiety used to assemble, and form six miles from the Porta S. Gallo,
plans for those statelv edifices and is famous for its Garden ; which
patriotic institutions by which Lo- contains Water-works, and. a Sta-
renzo embellished and benefited tue of the Apennine, sixty feet in
his country. The house stands height, by Giovanni di Bologna,
upon an eminence, whence the On the way to Pratolino is thd
ground falls gradually almost every modem Campo-Santo of Florence,
way; opening, on one side, to a Ji'gffo/e, anciently /te#w/«p, aeon-
view of Florence; on another, to siderableOity of Etruria, is proudly
a prospect of Val d'Arrio ; while, seated, on a summit of the Apen-
on another, rise mountains, co-* nine, in a most enchanting situa-
vered with neat fiarm -houses and tion, about three miles and a half
magnifitsent villas ; and, on ano- from the Porta-Plnti, by the Ma«
ther, is Fiesole, dignified with ruins jano-road. Light carnages may
of ancient Etruscan and Roman go with perfect ease and safety, as
splendour ; and, to complete the far as Majano, wluch is two-third»
deliciousness of the situation, cool of the way : but thence, to thif
and refreshing breezes almost con- Francescan Convent, at Fiesole,
stantly blow, about noon, from the tiie best conveyance is a trainMU /
Gulf of Bpezia, and make the in» which the Peasants jit Majano can
habitants of Careggi unconscious always fhrnish. Between the lat-
of oppressive heat, even in the ter place and Fiesole is th€ Dooia /
dog-days ; — no wonder, therefore, a Monastery built by Michael
that the elegant and wise Lorenzo Angelo, a^a deliciously situat^dr
should have called this his favou- The ancient Etiniscan Tovm of
rite abode I Careggi, like the ge- Fiesole is supposed to have been
nerality of Tuscan villas, is built destroyed by an earthquake, lon^
upon arches ; and consists of an before the period wiien Sylla
immense ground-floor with a spa- founded a colony there : the Walls
pious hall in its centre, and several of this Town, however, are in se-
surrounding rooms; every ceiling veral places discoverable: and it
being archwi, and every apartment seems evident, from the manner ix^
oool. Above stairs is'^another large which they present themselves,
hall, with a handsome suite of that they were thrown down by
dh. irlj ENVIRONS Of PIORINCE. 8^
ibiii« <M>iiy!d8{<m of natuM! thejr wastupprMMd. VallomlirmiaiiMlf
appear to have originally oonristed su^red very littl« trom being un*
' of large hewn etones without ee- der the dominion of fVanoe ; and
ment, like the walls of Pompeii the Certota it now re*eitabluihed»
and Peestum. Here, likewiBe, are Mulet are the neoestary convey*
i^mains of an Amphitheatre, built anee fbi* persons who cannot
on the side of a nUl : the shape walk ; there being no carriage
and size of the Edifice, some of road to the Convent,
the stairoases> seats^ and caves for Lovers of wild scenery would
wild beasts, together with the re« be mtified by proceeding from
servoir of water which belonged Vallombrosa to ih€ Abbey qf lAe
to this theatre, may be traced*: Camatdolit about Ihirty-six miles
and here, also, is an ancient Tem- from Florence ; and thence to the
pie, now roofed, and made into a Convmi of Lavemia (mom Al*
Ohurch. Fourteen fine Oolumns vemust) about fourteen miles fiir-
with Ionic Capitals, the Pave* ther. The former of these Con-
ment, and the Altar of the ancient vents was suppressed by tha
building still remain ; though the French ; who cut down much of
Altar has been moved from its ori- the fine wood belonging to it : now,
ginal situation. This Temple is however, this Convent is re-estab-
supposed to have been dedicated lished; though its inhabitants,
to Bacchus. The Walls of the about thirty in number, are too
Roman Town may, in some places, poor to entertain visitors gratis ;
be traced; as may the Pavement and therefore Travellers, after
of the streets, which resembles eating or sleeping under its roof,
that of Pompeii. The modem usuaUy make a present to the
Town, if it may be so called, con* community. The convent of La-
tains a spacious Cathedral, built vemia never was disturbed by the
in lOflS, apparently on the site of French ; and contains, at present^
an ancient Temple ; and adorned about sixty Capuchins,
with Sculpture by Mino da Fiesole, The modern- Florentines, like
and Andrea Ferrucci, Fiesolano ; their Etrurian ancestors, are fond
and likewise with a Picture of the of learning, arts, and sciences :
Martyrdom of S.Thomas, by Vol- and, what is more estimable ana
terrano ; here, also, are, an fijpis- endearing to Foreigners, they are,
copal Palace, a Seminar^r, and a generally speaking, mild, good-hu-
FVancescan Convent, which last moured, warm-hearted and Mend-
stands on the spot called Roeea ly. The Tuscan peasantry, eon-
deiFiesolanu sidered collectively, are pure in
VaUombroM, about fburteen their morals and pastoral m their
miles distant from FlesOle, is worth manner of living ; and the peculiar
notice ; not only l^ause it has comeliness of both sexes is very
been immortaliECd by Milton, but striking, especially in that tract oif
likewise on account of the beauty country which extends from Flor-
of ttie country, and the noble ence to Pescia: but it is only
CeH»sa of Vallombrosa, which among the peasantry that one can
. still contains fine Paintings ; though form a just idea of Italian beauty ;
the finest were, according to re- and pemaps it is only among the
port, removed when the Convent peasantry one can fbrm a just idea
f «) The Btrqritisi are ftimed for havipg Etruria, and perform pUfs, tor the Sift
mTettted AttphUhealree t terether with the time, at Rome; the Romanii t^ij fj^f?*
games called Currtli, and CertanU «let CatMtli; new «ime« mt*ht appeaee the f04s, a|»a %top
and ab«nt «h« year of Rome 400, comedians a theft vas^vg elekaeM*
were inyited, by the Romans, to come from
88 . TUSCAN PEASANTRY. tCh. III.
of the Italian character ; inhabit the interest received is that high
tants of populous cities being gratification which the woman de-*.
nearly alike whether in London, rives from exhibiting her oma-
Paris, Vienna, Florence, or Rome, ments on gala-days ; and these
The men are tall, robust, finely ornaments continue in the family
proportioned, and endowed with for ages, unless the pressing caU
that entile self-possession which of necessity compel them to be
inspires respect. The women are pawned, or sold. When the Sposa
of a middle stature; and were it is taken in labour, the husband,
not for bad stays, would be well after procuring medical help,
made. They have large, languish- deems it his next duty to get some
ing black eyes, accompanied by of what is denominated The life-
that expressive brow which consti- giving plant, {aleatrice the peasants
tutes the most remarkable and call it,) which he places on her
captivating part of an Italian coun- bed ; and without which, he be-
tenance. Their manners are un- Ueves his child cannot be born*
commonly graceful ; and, instead This custom is derived from the
of curtsying, they gently bow their Greeks ^4 About 2^ fortnight after
bodies^ and kiss the hand of a su- tiie birth of an infant, its parents
perior ; a practice common, indeed, give a christening dinner*, to their
throughout Italy. These peasants relations ; on which occasion every
(like tnose of Italy in general,) are guest brings a present, as was the
tolerably well informed respect- practice at Athens ; and the din-
ing the history of their country; ner is served di^h by dish, likewise
and, 'moreover, so fond of its an ancient custom. On the hus-
Poets as frequently to know their bands demise the eldest son be-
works by heart. - comes heir-at-law ; but is obliged
When two young peasants agree to portion hi^ sisters ; and eimer
to marry, the banns are published maintain his mother, or return her
three times in a parish church; dower ^: all his relations frequently
after which they receive the nup- live with him: but the largeness
tial benediction. The bride's por- of the family creates no confusion ;
tion is paid three days before mar- there being a superior over the
ria^e, one half in wearing-apparel, men, and another over the women,
and the other half in money ; who allot, to every person* their
which the bridegroom usually ex- business ; which is thus kept dis-
gends in purchasing jewels for tinct. A Tuscan farmer shares
is lady ; which consist of a pearl equally with his lord in the pro-
necklace, cross, and ear-rings, fre- duce of an estate ; and the owner
quently intermixed with rubies; even provides seeds, plants, ma-
and worth from twenty to thirty nure, implements of husban^, in
pounds sterling: these jewels being short, whatever may be requisite
considered by the man as the wo- for the cultivation of the land,
man's exclusive property : indeed, The upper class of farmers usually
money so invested may be looked possess a horse and a market-cart,
upon as placed in a bank; while a waggon» and a pair of large
(K) Some of the Grecian ladies ased to hold he sustained great losses by means of Pene*
palm-branches in their hands, in order to lope's suitors, thinks it imprudent to send her
procure an easy delivery. home to her father ; because that could not be
(t) Children in Roman-Catholic countries, done without returning her dower —
however, are christ^ed immediately after " I could not now repay so ^reat a sum,
their birth. To the old Man, should 1 dismus her home
(Jf) An^ elder son among the Greeks was Against her will."
obliged either to maintain his mother, or re- HoMSB*s Odyuey,
turn her dower : hence Telemachos, though
Ch.in.j
TUSCAN PEASANTRY.:
8^
dove-coloured o^en, vrho draw the
waggon and the plough, whose
colour seldom, if ever, varies^
throughout southern Italy, and
whose heauty is as remarkable as
that of their masters. The female
peasants, besides working in the
vineyards almost equally hard with
the men, often earn mone^r by
keeping poultry, and sometimes
one or two lambs ; whose fleecy
coats the children decorate, on the
Festa di San Giovanni, with scar-
let ribbons tied in fantastic knots :
and by the aid of money thus ac-
quired, wearing-apparel, and other
necessaries, are purchased. Shoes
and stockings are deemed super-
fluous, and merely ornamental,
even by the women; who cany
them in baskets on their heads, till
they reach a town; when these,
seemingly embarrassing decora-
tions are put on : for me Conta^
dina is as vain of her appearance
as the Dama nobile ; and, no won-
der—since the pictiwesque dresses
and lovely countenances of these
peasants arrest every eye, and
shew them, perhaps too plainly,
how strong are their powers of
attraction.^ The phraseology of
the Florentine peasants is wonder-
fully elegant: but the most re-
markable quality of these persons
is their industry ; for, during the
hottest weather, they toil an day
without sleep; and seldom retire
early to rest : yet, notwithstanding
this fatigue, they live almost en-
tirely upon bread, fruit, pulse, and
the common wine of the country :
however, though their diet is lignt,
and their personal exertions are
almost perpetual, they commonly
attain old age; especially in the
neighbourhood of Fiesole.
. 'Die following is an account of
a Dance given, at Care^gi di Ric-
cardi, by the family of uie Author
of this Work, to all the sinround-
ing peasants. Ourball-roomvraft
a lofty apartment sixty feet by
thirty ; and in the centre of the
ceiling hung a lustre, composed of
such light materials that every puff
of wind gave it motion : indeed it
had the appearance of being con-^
tinually turned round by an invi^
sible hand: this lustre we filled
with candles ; and the walls, which
were adorned with full-length por-
traits of the Medici-Princes, we
likewise decorated with festoons of
vines, oUve-branches, flowers, and
l€unps, so that the whole apart-
ment resembled an illuminated ar-
bour. At sunset, on the appointed
day, our guests appeared. altoge-
ther upon a lawn leading to the
villa, preceded by their own band
of music : and no sooner did this
procession reach our hall door, than
the musicians struck up a hvely
tune ; while the dancers, as they
entered, formed a quadrille, whica
would have been applauded on any.
opera-staffe. When this dance
with finished, the female peasants
advanced, in couples, to the top
of the hall, where we were seated^
paying their compliments to us
was as much ease and elegance as
if they had been educated in a
court : and then commencing an-
other quadrille, different from, but
quite as pretty as the first. With
a succession of these dances we
were amused till supper; after
which our visitors, who had been
regaled with punch, a liquor they
particularly rSish, came once more
to us; when the women returned
thanks for their entertainment,
kissed our hands, and, presenting
their own to their partners, bowed
and retired."
Another circumstance, which
occurred to the family of the Au-
thor, and of which the following
is a brief detail, serves to shew
the grateful and delicate turn of
(0 The ancient and elegant costume of the Tuscan peasants is leas frequently worn
than it need to be twenty years since.
60 TUSCAN PIASANTRY. [Oh. IIi;
ihind pdsseised hy ihe Tuscan tearning thus mueh, wt pmiefit«d
Peasants. our new aoqusintance with a paul
- < One day, as we were walking — ^but to describe the ecstasy this
near Careggi, we observed a girl, gift produced is impossible. —
apparently about fourteen years *♦ Now,'* cried she (when a flood
of age, watching a flock of goatf, of tears had enabled her to speak),
and at the same time spinning '^ now loan purchase b. corona^
with great diligence ; her tattered — ^now I can go to mass, and pe-
garmentsbespoke extreme poverty; tition the Madonna to preserve
but her air was peculiarly dignified, my kind benefactresses I "
and her countenance so interesting, On taking leave of this inte*
that we were irresistibly impelled resting creature, we desired she
to give her a few crazie. Joy and would sometimes pay us a visit :
gratitude instantly animated her Our invitation, however, was only
flne eySs while she exclaimed ; answered by a bow : and, to our
"Never, t31 this moment, was I regret, we neither saw nor heard
woj4hfe9 much money!" — Struck of her again, till the day before
t^heitwbrds and manner, we in- our departure from Careggi; when
quire<^tef^ name ; likewise asking it appeared that, immediately after
where her parents lived? " My her interview with us, she had
name is Teresa," replied she; "but, been attacked by the small-pox,
alas, I have no parents." " No and was only just recovered,
parents! — ^who, tnen, takes care During the next summer, al*
of you ?" — ** The Madonna." — though we again resided in the
" But who brought you up ?" — same neighbourhood, we, for a
" A peasant in Vallombrosa : I considerble time, saw nothing of
was her nurse-child ; and I have Teresa. One day, however, we
heard her say my parents delivered observed a beautiful white goal;
me into her care; but that she did browsing near our house ; and, on
not know their name. As I grew going out, perceived our Proteg<i^
up she almost starved me ; and, with her whole flock. W^ now
what was worse, beat me so cm- inquired, almost angrily, why she
clly, that, at length, I ran away had not visited us before? — " I
from her." ** And where do you was fearful of obtruding," replied
live now?" ** Yonder, in the the scrupulous girl ; ** but I
flain (pointing to Val d'Amo) ; have watched you at a distance,
have fortunately met with a mis- ever since your return ; and i
tress who feeds me, and lets me could not forbear coming rather
sleep in her bam: this is her flock." nearer than usual to-day, in the
" And are you happy now ?" " O hope that you might notice me."
yes ! very happy. At first, to be We gave her a scudo, and again
sure, it was lonesome sleeping in desfa^ she would sometimes call
the bam hy myself; 'tis so far upon us. ** No," replied she, ** I
from the house ; but I am used am not properly dressed to enter
to it now : and indeed I have not your doors ; but, with the scudO
much time for sleep ; being obliged you have kindly given me, I shall
to work at night when I come immediately purchase a stock of
home ; and I always go out with flax ; and then, riiould the Ma-
the goats at day-break : however, donna bless me with health to
I do very well ; for I get plenty work hard, I may soon be able,
of bread and grapes ; and my by selling my thread, to buy da*
mistress never beats me." After cent apparel, and wait upon you,
(m) Without a cwnna she Informed tts that she eotiltl &ott)ei>ermitted to go to mass.
Oh. IVJ PISA. b(
'dofiitd with thi ftwits rf your dcmned to petpetuRl Ubour u
bounty."— And, indcMl. it wm not gaUey-slayes : and to these, and
lonKbabre w« hftdtheplcuureof many other equally wine regula-
MBlng h« come to viilt us, neatly tions, made by Leopoldo, are at-
dnsMd, and eKhibiting a picture tributable the almott total exemp-
©f content," tlon from rol>bery and murder
Aoemding to the exoellent Lawl which thli coiintry has lon^ en-
of the Emperor LeopoMo, no joyed; and the incr«BM to its
maA em be iaprisoned for delrt, population of two hundred fhou-
tiiou^ creditors have power to sand inhabitants; an astonishing
Miie the properbr of their debtors ; difference, aa the originBl number
Wd BO offence is punishable with was ijnly one milbon.
death, though murderers are con- j^i^
■lluli*ii, arp*«d sriflB. ud pnMBt ipiwirun of Piu— Dum^-Bipililtrf-^iBpuU*
— Cm^SuU— SouMt U <lri<r— ChiHs M C»*Uari— Pslaiu dt- C>nllcri— CIuih dl
Sua Fiwdiut— di 3a. Aiiti*-4i £*. Catxrinir-di ». Fioki lU' Orto— di S. Fiuhbv—
CbnTeh bekuiiiiiE ta tLa Conwiralscb di S. Silveitcs— Chiaae di S, Mati»--di 9.
Picriiio_di S. MichelB in Bargo — di 3. VLU— dtUa Spina— di \i. Andres ia Cbiniecu-'
dlS.MartinD— Pilaiti-LanFruchl— TflDini— Unfrrdncd-Ciii-Mechfrini— Piliiio-S«u
— Bofal Pataee— Ho^piuli. Sie,— Ucinnilr—Torre dells Spccols— BoUnic Girdci—
Andtnt Vipont-Balb— SniipreBsed Chimli nf S, rrMce—Sabunntaa pan of S. Michel*
(b Burfo— AiinadHct at CnldmUi— Moden Bilhs— MsinUin sf B. Oinliano— Modtn
A^waict^^uat-Rd^ Farm— OkiTmetar of (ha PlHaa-HoMla— FDOBtiiiWalgi^
Ttadre— BrldfH— Smttla of tkt BridE*— llIamiBittH Ib bnnr of ». Rukri— CBniral
— OUbibu.
Pisa, (anoiently Ptifw, a conBide- African corsairs, and a check upoij
rable Town of Etruria,) stands, on the ambition of Genoa ; and with
the banks of the Amo, forty-eight innumerable spoils, t^enfrom the
milea distant &om Florence, four- first-mentioned people, most of
taen from Leghorn, and six from the present building at Pisa were
the Mediterranean sea. Dionysius erected. This City is, next to
of Halicamassus affirms, that this Florence, the largest in Tuscany;
Town existed before the Trojan but though its walls arenearfive
war: Strabo supposes it to have miles in circumference, they do
been built by the Arcadians, soon not, at the present moment, con-
sfter that period; but, according tain above eifthteen thousand
to other autliorilies, it was founded persons. The Streets are wide,
by a Colonyof PisseaiiB, who were straight, and excellently paved;
ihipwrecked on the coast of Btru- the Bridges elegant; the Quay is
ria at their return from Troy- In one of the finest in Europe ; and
modem times it has been the ca- the situation of the Cathedral,
pifal of a great republic, whose Baptistery, Leaning Tower, and
conquering flfeet was a terror to Campo-Santo, renders these ma-
tha Saracen*, a aoourge to the jestio Edifices particularly sbiking
(») It U aaid lUt Bio lak Qrana-Doko of Twmj Bl.nig»tri (obi* of bit fstheA Lbwi
92 PISA^. tch,m
and beautiful. The Amo tra-. four lofty Columns ; sixty-two of
verses tiie City in the form of a which are oriental granite ; and
crescent; and divides it nearly the rest rare marble : and although
into two equal parts. most of these Columns were ori-
The DwomOy a Greco- Araba- ginally unequal in height, and
Pisano structm-e, in the shape of consequently ill adapted to match*
a Latin cross, built (as already yet so well has the architect dis-
mentioned,) in the eleventh cen- posed of and added to them, that
tury, under the guidance of Bus- even the most observing eye per-
chetto, a Grecian, is remarkable ceives no want of symmetry,
for the richness and variety of its Twelve Altars, designed by Mit
marbles ; and, next to the cathe- chael Angelo and executed by
drals of Milan and Siena, per- Stagio Stagi, adorn the walls of
haps the finesj; Church of its kind this Edifice. Tlie High-altar is
in Italy*." 'Hie eastern front is magnificently decorated with lapis
ornamented with an immense num- lazuli p, verde antique, brocatello
ber of Columns ; some of which di Spagna, bronze gilt, giallo di
are .Gi:ecian marble, others ori-. Siena> ^c. .* the Tribuna contains
entSJ Jranite, and one is porphyry; two porphyry Columns, with pecu-
anion^" these the most strikmg are liarly elegant Capitals and Bases ;
six magnificent ancient Columns that near the episcopal throne is
which adorn the three celebrated embellished with the best works of
Doors of bronze ; and are said to Stagi, and bears a bronze Angel
be either Grecian or Egyptian greatly admired. The decorations
>vorkmanship. - The Doors were of the opposite Column were exe-
designed by Giovanni di Bologna, cuted by Foggini ; and the Group
and cast by P. D. Portigiani ; that of angels on a golden field, which
in tlie centre, the least beauti- adorns the great Arch, by Ghirlan-
ful of the three, represents the dajo, the master of Michael Angelo.
Xiife of the Madonna ; and is The Seats for the Canons (a sort
surrounded by figures of Saints of Wooden Mosaic introduced into
and Prophets, and embellished with Tuscany in the time of Brund-
an elegant border of foliage, fruits, lesco,) merit notice. The four Pic-
and flowers. Those on the right turesofS. Peter, S.John, S*. Mar-
and left represent the Life of the gherita, and S». Caterina, are by
Saviour, beginning with his birth, Andrea del Sarto ; and the Mosaic
and ending with nis crucifixion ; on the Ceiling, representing the
they are likewise embellished with Saviour, the Madonna, and S.
a border, nearly similar to the one John, was executed by Gaddo
already described. The Mosaics, Gaddi and other artists, in 1321.
in the Arches above the Doors, On the right side of the great cross
were done by FiUippo di Lorenzo is the Chapel of S. Ranieri ; whose
Palidini. The Architrave of the Sarcophagus rests on a pedestal of
eastern Door was taken from an red Egyptian granite, adorned with
ancient edifice: and the Door other valuable marbles: the sar-
which fronts the Campanile, is cophagus is of verde di Polcevera,
esteemed for its antiquity ; though the Altar of giallo di Siena, and
not remarkable for merit of any the Balustrades are of inlaid mar-
other kind. The inside of the ble : the whole was executed by B.
Church is adorned with seventy- G. Foggini, at the command, of
{fi) The Pisans consecrated their plander» of the eleventh century,
gained in an expedition against the baracens (p) Lapis lazuli is said to be the Cyanrnvm
of Palermo, in 1063, to the erection of this of the ancients ; and Great Tartarjr it snp-
^athedral; which was finished before the end posed to produce the best.
Ch. IV.J MSA. ^
€osimo III, in honour of S. Ra- Va^a and G. A. Soffliani--S. Ra-
nieri, who died in 1161, and was nieri putting on the Helinous Ha-
?roclaimed, by the Pisans, their bit, by Cav. B. Luti — ^the Death
^atron Saint. This Chapel con- of S. Ranieri, by Cav. G. Melani,
tains a Mosaic, by Gaddo Giuldi, who flourished in the seventeenth
representing the Madonna en- century — ^the three Maries at the
throned and attended by Angels ; foot of the Cross, by G. Bilivert —
and an antique Grecian, or Ro- the Adoration of the Serpent in
man Statue, said to represent the wilderness, by O, Riminaldi —
Mars, though now called S. Efeso. Habakkuk borne by an Angel, by
On the left side of the great cross Bilivert — ^Judith giving the heaa
is the Chapel of the Holy Sacra- of Holofemes to her Servant ; and
xnent ; which contains a Ciborio of the Madonna, our Saviour and
massy silver, and an altar adorned Saints, originally painted by Pas*
with silver Bassi-riUevi ; both weU signano, and added to by Tempest!
executed, after the designs of Foj^- ~^Grod the Father, Raphael, and
gini : the Balustrades are of inlaid other Angels, by Salembini — and
marble ; and here, likewise, is a the Institution of the Lord*s Sup-
Mosaic, by Gaddo Gaddi, repre- per, by Tempesti. The bronze
senting the Annunciation. At the Gryphon on the top of the Duomo
bottom of the Church, over the is a curious antique Intaglio, sup-
great entrance-doors, is a beau- posed to be Egyptian workman*
tiful Bar, or gallery, ornamented ship.
with Bassi-rilievi, by Giovanni, The Baptistery , called a Ger*
the son of Niccolo Pisano ; and it man-Gothic Structure, erected (as
is much to be lamented that this has been already mentioned) by
fine work, which originally adorned Diotisalvi, in the twelfth century,
a pulpit, is now placed so high, is an octagon of white marble;
that its merits are scarce discern!- and its principal entrance displays
ble : it represents Scriptural His- two large and two small Columns,
tories. The centre-aisle contains a similar to those which adorn the
Pulpit of inlaid marble, supported great doors of the Duomo.
by two small Columns ; the one The inside of this Edifice resem*
porphyry, the other oriental bro- bles an ancient temple. Twelve
catello; and the first is parti- Arches, supported by eight vast
cularly curious, from consisting Columns of Sardinian granite, and
of various pieces so well joined four pilasters of white marble, serve
that it may l)e properly denomi- as the base to a second row of
nated Breccia porftrea : the se- Pilasters, on which rest the Cu-
cond is the finest specimen of pola. The Capitals of the pillars
its sort in Italy. The Pillar, on and pilasters, are antiqua The
the ri^ht, whicn supports the cu- Font, elevated on three steps of
pola, is ornamented with a Picture beautiful marble, is adorned with
by F. B. Gozzoli, who lived in the Intagli and Mosaics, so well exe-
fifteenth century ; it represents S. cuted, that they appear to hare
Thomas Aquinas disputing with an been done long before the buil^g,
assembly of Ecclesiastics ; and the On the margin are four places for
Pillar, on the left, is adorned with the immersion of infants ; and, in
a Picture of S. Agnes, by Andrea the centre, is a large basin for the
del Sarto I Among the Pictures immersion of adults : this practice
not already mentioned, those best of immersion, however, has been
worth notice are— the Madonna abandoned since the thirteenth cen-
and our Saviour surrounded with tury. The Pulpit, one of Niccolo
Saints, attributed to Pierino del Pisano's best works, is supported
n JISA. [Gh. IVi
Jby nitie Columns of ptedous mw- summit of thii Tower sure easy of
ble, and ornamented with Bcasi^ ascent; and the view from the
rilietn, formed out of oriental ala* eighth Gallery is very extensive,
baster and Parian marble. The The Campo-Santo, or ancient
first piece represents the Birth of Burial-Ground, the most beautiftil
Qur Savioinr — the second, the Ediiioe at Pisa, and unique in its
Adoration of the Magi— the third, kmd, is a vast Rectangle, sur-
the Presentation in 9ie Temple— rounded by sixty-two light and
the fornrth, the Crucifixion (much elegant Gothic Arcades of the
inferior to the rest)— the fifth, the Greco-Araba School : they are
Last Judgment. This Baptisteiy eomposed of white marble, and
was finished in 11&3; at which paved with the same matetial*
period Pisa is said to have been so Archbishop Ubaldo Lanfranei»
populous^ that a voluntary con- who was contemporary with Ri*
tribution of one florin, from every chard CcBur-de-lion, and his bro*
family, sufficed to pay for this no- ther warrior in the Hoty Land,
ble edifice \ brought to Pisa a large quantity of
The Campanile, or Leaning earth from Mount Calvaiy, and
Tower, begun by Guglielmo, a deposited it on the spot round
German, and Bonnano, Pisano, which the Arcades of the Campo«^
about the year 1174, is of a cir« Santo are now erected. He is,
cular form, nearly 190 feet in therefore, supposed to have given
height, and declining above 13 feet the first idea of this £<Mfice in
firom its perpendicular. Thisbeau« 1200; and the present structure,
tiful £difice consists 9f Eight dghteen years afterward, was eom-*
Stories, adorned with two hundred menced under the direction of 6io^
and seven Columns of granite and vanni Pisano, who finished it in
other marbles, many of which have 1283'. The firtatues over the prin-
evidently been taken from ancient cipal Door are by Giovanni K-
buildings. According to the opi- sano ; they stand in a kind of
nion of the most respectable wri- Temple, and, among them, is the
ters, it appears that this Tower Sculptor himself, kneeling to the
originally was straight ; though Madonna. The Sarcophagi under
some accidental cause, such as an the arcades are chiefly of Parian
earthquake, the great fire at Pisa, marble. Here is the Tomb of the
or the natural looseness of the soU, Countess Beatrice, who died in
has produced its present extraor- 1113, and was mother to the cele-
dinary inchnation: and in that brated Countess Matilda, the last
part of the Campo-Santo where descendant from the Counts of
the life of S. Ranieri is painted, Tuscany. On this Sarcophagus
we see this now leaning Tower per- is represented in boiso-rilievo, the
lectly upright, and consisting of Chase of Meleager, according to
Seven Stories only: .niay not, some opinions, and the Stoiy of
therefore, the Eighth Story, which "Rwedra and Hippolitus, accordingf
rather inclines on the contrary side to others : however, be this as it
to the others, have been added, in may, the merit of the work proves
latter times, as a balance, to pre- it an ancient production, ap«-
vent the whole Edifice from fall- plied, in latter ages, to its present
ing? The Stairsr leading up to the use; audit is supposed thatdiif
(jgf) Pisa, at the ]^eriod above-mentioned, flourishinf state, is said to hava amointeA ta
was supposed to contain 13,400 families ; and, 130,000 Residents. ^
Mokoning fire persons to each family, the nnm< (r) Some historians snpMs* the Gtaikf6»
ber of inhabitants will amoaat to 67,000^but Santo was eompleted, in, 1S81, darisff th«
the population of this citj, during its most xeaith of the bhoit-UTed pzosperitj of tbi
?i9«n Reptiblie.
OILIVJ JPI8A. ^
Saroophagus was the modd from and damaged, 7^ /hit divmom
which Nioolo Pisano, and his son, of the northern Arcade contains
used to study. Here, hkewise* is four Pictures, representing the
an ancient vase, embelUshed with Creation, by Buffalmacco, who
bani-rilieinf representing Baccha* flourished in the beginning of the
nalian Mysteries, and which seems the fourteenth century. The other
to have been one of the vessels paintings which adorn this Arcade
employed by the Gx^ks and Ro» (those over the Doors of the Cha-
mans in their religious ceremonies, pels excepted) r^resent the prin*
Round the walls are Frescos of the cipal events of the Book of Gene*
fourteenth and fifteenth century ; sis ; and were b^gun b}[ B. Goizoli,
which, however deficient in many in 1484, and finished in the short
respects, cannot but yield pleasure space of two years. The first of
to those pmona who wish, on their these numerous Pictures contains
entrance into Italy, to view the the famous Fergognoaa di Campo*
works of the Revivers of an Art Santo ; and over the Chapel-door
aftmnirds brought to exquisite per- is Uie Adoration of the Magi, by
fection. In the first division of which work Goz2oli established hi4
the Arcade, on the western wall, reputation among the Pisans, and
are six large Pictures, representing prevailed with them to employ him
the Life of S. Ranieri ; the three in painting their Campo-Santo ;
upper ones being by Simone Mem- not merely on account of the ge^
mi ; the three under ones, by An- neral ment of the picture, but be«
tonio, called Veneziano : and they cause it exhibited an excellent like-
particularly merit notice, on ac- ness of his mistress, a Pisan ^1»
count of the costume accurately whom he drew, to display his imi*
preserved throughout them all, tative powers. Over the same
and likewise because they show Door is the Annunciation, attri-*
how ships were armed and rigged buted to Stefano Florentine ; and
in the days of S. Ranieri. In one the fifth lower Picture from this,
of these rictures is the Campanile : is particularly interesting, as it
they all are supposed to have been contains several Portraits of illus-
begun in 1300. The second divi* trieus Persons, and among them
sion contains six Paintings, repre- that of Lorenzo de' Medici. Over
senting the Life and Death of Saints the Door of the second Chapel is
Efeso and Potito, done by Spi- the Coronation of the Madonna,
nello Spinelli, Aretino, about the by Taddeo Bartoli; and in the
year 1400. The third division fifth lower Picture, beyond this
contains six Paintings, represent- Chapel, are portraits of other il-
ing the history of Job, l^ Giotto ; lustnous Persons, among whom
80 injured, however, by the hand the Painter has placed himself
of time, that it is difficult to dis- though his figure is almost totally
tinguish them, although, in 1623, obliterated. These works, by Goi-
they were retouched, by Marus* zoli, are, generally speaking, the
celn. The other Paintings of this best preserved of any in the Campo*
Arcade are said to have been done Santo. The Paintings of the east*
by NeHi di Vanni, Pisano. The em Arcade, as far as the Chapel-
two first Pictures in the second door, are by Zaccaria Rondinosi,
Arcade represent the History of Pisano, and were executed in 1666;
Esther, by Ghirlandajo ; retouched, they represent the history of King
however, by Aurdio, or Baccio Ozia, and Balteshazzar*s Feast
• Lomi. The second division of this Beyond the Chapel are three Paint-
Arcade contains the History of ings, said to be by Buffalmacco,
Judith; whiohis modem, iUrdone^ and representing the Crucifixion,
Hestirrectiott, And Ascension of Inscription, the one to the memory
the Saviour. The next Picture in of Lucius, and the other to that of
that part of the southern Arcade Caius Caesar, the adopted sons of
not ab^ady described, represents Augustus. Six hundred ancient
the Triumphs of Death, and was families of Pisa, besides many iUus*
done by Andrea Orcagna, who trious characters of different na-
flourished in the middle of the four- tions, are said to be interred in the
teenth centuiy : it contains several Oampo-Santo.
portraits. The second large Pic- The solemn grandeur of this^
ture, by the same master, is the Burial-ground, prompted the Au-
Universal Judgment, in which So- thor of these Pages to compose
lomon is represented as dubious the following Sonnet to Grief;
whether he may go to Heaven or which is inserted here, because
Hell. The next Picture, or rather descriptive of the Campo-Santo:
B compartment of the last, repre- s„^„^„ nnmatch'd! which braves the
Sents Dante s In/emo; and was lapse of Time!
Painted by Bernardo Orcagna, Fit cradle of the reviving Arts to rear!
brother to Andrea, and restored by Thy V^K VSi ^X" rti pK
Sollazino, who flourished about the Famed Campo-Santo ! where the might j
year 1530. The fourth Picture re- nfJil.^ « p«,;-« . w i
^ 1. xi_ TT* J. i» i.i_ A ^* ®^<*®' davs, in Fanan marble sleep,
presents the History of the An-^ Say, who isShe, that ever seems to keep
Chorites, by Laurati, the pupil of Watch o'er thy precincts ; save when mortal
Giotto : and over the Great Door inyades thfawfui stillness of the scene ?
is an Assumption, by Simone Then straggling to sappress the heavy
Memnii, one of the best preserved a«^k5ILv;«-»i.-v *^ a^ t v
Tk' J. jfA.^^ jf ^ i.i5 A ^^^ brnshing the big tear-drop from her
Picturesof the fourteenth century. eye, .
It is remarkable that, among the She veils her face— and glides yon tombs
immense number of countenances 'TisGBiKJ*i^by that thick veil the Maid i
contained in these paintings, we know,
scarce find two alike. The faces, Moisten'd^ with tears which never cease to
generally speaking, are well done ; /
the figures and drapery stiff ; the The Chiesa de' Cavalieri, or
perspective is bad ; but the bor- Chuych of S. Stefano, firom whom
ders, which form the several com* the square in which it stands is
partments, are particularly elegant, named, was built by Yasari : the
Among'the Monummts is that of High- Altar, by Foggini, is of por-
Count Algarotti, erected by Frede- phyry ; so likewise is tiie Sarco-
ric the Great, of Prussia ; but re- phagus above it, reputed to con-
markable only for the beauty of tain the Relics of S. Stephen ; and
the marble : near this is the sar- the Bronze-chair, suspended over
cophagusofG.F.Vegio,byTaddo; the Sarcophagus^ was (presented
and, in the eastern ^cade, is the by Innocent XII to Cosimo III.
Monument of Filippo Decio ; who On the ceiling are six Paintings
had it erected in his life-time ; giv- relative to the Knights of S. Ste^^
ing, as a reason, ** That he feared fano ; the two first by Ligozzi,
posterity would not have done it the two next by Empoh, the fifth,
for him." This monument is by by Cigoli, and the last, which re-
Stagio Stagi. Under Orcagna's presents Cosimo I, receiving the
Picture of the Triumphs of Death Habit of the Order, is by Clmsto-
iBtands an ancient Roman Mile- fano Allori. On the WaUs and
stone, which was discovered on the Ceiling are Trophies taken from
•Via-£milia, near Rimazzano, and the Saracens, by the Knights of
thence transported to Pisa; and S. Stefano. This Church contains
<on each side of this Column is an a very curious Organ, reputed tQ
Ch. IV.} PISA; 97
b^ the finest in Europe; a Na- Aquinas surrounded by the Fa*
tivily, by Bronzino ; and a silver thers of the Church, among whom
Crucifix, by Algardi. • is a Portrait of Urban VI ; at the
The Palazzo de' Cavalieri, si- feet of these are several Philoso-
tuated in the same square, was phers and Heretics, with their
built by Vasari; and over the works torn in pieces; but what
principal Entrance are Busts of seems very incongruous, S. Tho-
six Grand Masters of the Order, mas himself is placed between
banning with Cosimo I, who in- Plato and Aristotle, who are pre-
stituted these Knights to defend senting him with their literaiy pro-
the Mediterranean against Turks ductions.
and Corsairs, by means of galleys. The Chiesa di 8. Paolo alt
on board of which ev^y Knight Orto contains a Head of our 8a-
was compelled to serve three years viour, which appears to have been
ere he could be finally received done in the twelfth century,
into the Order : but, when peace The Chiesa di S. Jn^ancesco,
was established between Barbary supposed to have been built after
and the Tuscans, the Knights and the designs of Niccolo, Pisano,
their galleys became useless ; in- contains a Chapel dedicated to S.
somudi that the latter were, in Antonio da Padova, and painted
1755, all broken up and destroyed, by Salembini and Maruscelli — ai
Near the Palazzo de* Cavalieri, Chapel painted by Passignano ;
there formerly stood a building, to£;ether with a Madonna and
now totally demolished, which was Child, said to have been done in the
called the Tower of Famine, from fourteenth century — another Cha-
having been the prison of Ugo- pel (near the Sacristy) the Paint-
lino '. > mgs in which are attributed to
The Chiesa di S, Frediano, Spinello, Aretino, who likewise did
which is supported by Columns of the large Picture over the Sa-
oriental granite with ancient Ca- cristy-door — a Picture, in the Sa-
pitals, contains a Painting of our cristy, by Giotto, of S. Francesco
Saviour on the Cross, done, in the receiving the Elect ; and, in the
thirteenth century, by Giunto, Pi- Sacristy-chapel, the Madonna and
sano. Saints, painted in 1395, by T. Bar-
The Chiesa di S, Anna con- toli. In the Cloister to the right
tains a curious representation of of the little steps which lead into
our Saviour on the Cross, wrought the Church, the bones of UgoHno,
in wood, on the Tabernacle of the his sons, and grand-children, are.
High-altar: and this wooden sculp^ according to tradition, deposited,
ture, of which there are several The Church belonging to the
^ecimens in Pisa, is attributed to Conservatorio di S, Silvestro con-
G. Giaccobi, Pisano. tains two antique Paintings, by
The Chiesa di S" . Caterina con- Guidotti; and a small Basso-rt-
tains a curious Picture, by F. lievo, in terra-cotta, attributed to
Traini, one of the most skilful dis- Luca della Robbia.
ciples of Andrea Orcagna : this The Chiesa di S, Matteo, built
Picture represents S. Thomas by the brothers Melani, is remark-
(0 Count UgolinOt a Pisan nobleman, fen- them food, and throwing: the key of their dun-
tered into a conspiracy with Archbishop Ru- geon into the Arno, he left them, in thi»
gieri, to depose the governor of Pisa; in dreadfnl situation, to be starved to death!
which enterprise having succeeded, Ugolino See Dantk's* /»/<?rno. Canto XXXIII.
assumed the government of the city ; but the Count Uurolino, however, seems to have de-
Archbishop, jealous of his power, incited the served punishment: as his das^ai^t^^ *f*
people against him; attacked his palace, treacherous flight lost the battle of Jweiona,
seized his person, and cast him and his fa- and thereby destroyed the naval power or
milv into prison; tiU, at length, refusing Pisa.
PISA. tCh. IV.
abl« fof the Prtgcos of those Art; two figures attributed t6
arti«t», which awj so skilfully ma- Moschitio ; and a half-length Ma-
naged as to make the roof ap- donna, by Nino.
pear wondoiVilly higher than it The Chiesa di 8, Andrea in
really is. Chinstca contains a valuable
The CMesa di S. Pierino, sup* Monument of the Greco-Pisand
posed to hare been an ancient School, namely, our Saviour ott
heathen temple, contains a Ma- the Cros.s ; which appears to have
donna, pamted on the wall, and a been, done in the thirteenth cen-
Cmeiflx, by Oiunto, Pisano. The turr.
Ornaments on the outside of the The Chtesa di 8, Marttnd con-
Oreat Door a*e ancient and beau- tains a Crucifix, by Gtunto, H-
tiftil; the Pavement is cf piefra sano*.
dura; and the Edifice stands on The PalaxxO'Lattfrtmehij on
an anoient Bone-houde, which that side of the Amo called Parte
contains two Sarcoph^ of Parian di mezzo-giomo, was built after
marble, together with Paintings, in the design of Michael Angelo.
the style of those which adorn the Tfte Palazzo- Tonini contalne
Campo-Santo. two Paintings, in fresco, from Tas-
The Chiesa di 8, Mi<^le in so's Oeruscu^mme, begun by Me-
Bargo, said to have been built be- lani, and finished by Tommasi, hit
fbra the eleventh century^ by Qu- scholar.
glielmo, Pisano, is inerusted with The Palazzo- Lanft'educei, which
cerulean marble, supported by an- is inerusted with statuary marble,
oient Columns of GraniteUo, and has a Chain, and these Words
adonied with a marble Crucifix, over the door ; " Alia giomatoT
wrought by Niceolo, Rsano, and — many tales are told m conse-
originally placed in the Campo- quence ; but none of them seem
Santo. The Madonna, under tins sufficiently authenticated to be
Crucifix, is supposed to l>e one of worth relating. This Palace con-
the most aneient paintings in Pisa, tains a celebrated Picture, bv Gui-
The Cupola, the Upper Nave, the do, the subject of which is. Sacred
Vision of S. Homualdo, the Ex- and Profane Love, represented by
pedttion to Majorca and Minorca, two boys : perhaps the subject of
and the Institution of the Pound- this Picture may have been taken
ling Hospital, are all painted by from Plato, who says, there are
Ouidotti. two Cupids, as different as day
The Ckieea di 8. Fito, et more and night ; the one possessing
properly speaking, the CappeHa di ev«T vfftue, the other every vice.
9. Rameri, contains a Fresco re- Cfaea-Meclierini, on the oppo-
prcsenting the Death of the Saint, site side of the Amo, and catted
and executed, noft many years Parte di Tramontana, contains a
since, by Tempesti, in his best cdebrated Sibyl by Guercino ; with
manner. The surroumfing Archi- Frescos by Tempesti and C^offo.
tectural ornaments are hj Cioffo. 77ie Palazzo-Seta, in Via S.
The Chiesa delta Spina exhi- Ceeiliat contains FVescos by the
bits Monuments of the ancient brothers Melani; as do the Pd-
Pisan School of Sculiitore; namely, lazzo del Publico, and the PaUutto
the Madonna, our Saviour, S. de' Priori.
John and S. Peter, \>y Nino, Pi- In t?ie Royal Palace the ceiliiigs
sano, one of the Revivers of the are painted with ekgaaee ; aiMt
(0 .T*« S^^^^ •* '*«» e«"*«w seretBl tion of them ttar \n feoad !q MtfEBOVA'f
FamUBflft ¥jr ^ Jwen iMuten, vet men. Hitton of rim
tioned u this Work ; and a minttte deseriiK
oh.irj
P18A;
the fbixittdre, tilongfa piaiii, !sr
handsome.
The Hospitals are spacious:
and the Loma def Banchi ana
Casino Nobut are fine buildings.
The UmverHty of Pisa was
fbunded in the year 1339, brthe
Emperor Henry VII ; thpum, in
con.^quence of civil wars. It be-
came almost annihilated, tUl the
reign of Cosimo I ; by whom it
was re-established on the present
plan, in 1543. It has produced as
many, if not more, learned men than
any public seminary in Italy ; and
when the Pisans, during the twelfth
century, on captming Amalfi, dis-
covered there a copy of the Pan-
dects of Justinian, they carried it
home in triumph ; and thus pro- .
cured their University the honour
6f reviving the study of the Ro-
man Civil Law.
The Torre delta Specula, or 05-
iervatory, was erected about the
year 1735; and is furnished with
good instruments.
The Boianic Garden was founded
b^ Ferdinando, second son of Co-
simo I.
There seems little doubt that
Pisa was a Roman Colony, often
visited by the Caesars ; and Nero,
about the year 57, is said to have
made an eiccursion to this City»
with which he was so much pleased,
that he embellished it with a mag-
nificent palace and a temple de£-
csuted to Diana, which stood at the
entrance of the Lucca-gate. This
temple was built in the form of a
rotondo; all of marble without:
the ceiling was an imitation of
the starry firmament: the inter-
nal decorations consisted of orien-
tal marble columns, with various
pieces of sculpture and painting ;
the pavement was Egyptian mar-
ble, and the statue of tne e^oddess
stood in its centre. Whether the
palace did, or did not enclose this
temple is unknown; but the for-
mer is described as being hignlv
ornamented, an4 of a vast extent,
oofitaining baths, ^^ens, and
fish-ponos; and it is added that
Nero, in order to have it amply
supplied with water, built the aque-
duct of Monti-Pisani, which ex-
tended from Caldacolli to the
Lucca-gate. Such is the account
given of Nero's temple and palace ;
and it is certain that the buildings
of the ffypocaustufH extended from
the Duomo to the vidnity of the
Monastery of S. Zenone. It is
equally certain that foundations of
immense buildings have been dis*
covered in the gardens which now
occupy the space between the
Church of S. Zenone and the Duo-
mo ; that numberless pieces of
marble are seen in the walls and
buildings, which at present stand
upon the above-named space ; and
two ruins near the Lucca-gate, one
of which has been recently demo«
lished, were evidently parts of the
Hypocaustum : these circumstances
concur with several others to esta-
blish the truth of what has been
advanced. The most interesting
remains of these antiauities is the
Vapour-Bath, situated in a Garden
dose to the Luoca-gate : this Bath
is an octagon, with four semi-cir-
cular niches ; in the upper part of
which are terra^cotia tubes of a
triangular shape. Opposite to the
entrance there appears to have been
a place reserved for some marble
ornament. The roof forms a semi-
circle, and contains eight places to
admit light, besides an octagon
aperture m the centre. The pave-
ment, leactine to the great funiace^
was made of calcistruzzQ, Vnih g
surface of marble one finger thick,
to walk or lie down upon. It is
probable that, under this marble
pavement,there were vaulted rooms,
where the attendants kept up per-
petual fires : and some persons
unagine that under eveiy niche were
vases filled with water, which, on
being heated by the fires, impreg-
nated the apartments with vapour.
Ancient baths usually consisted of
S 2
^00 PISA. [Ch.IV.
four apartments, ^stinguished by besques, resembling those which
the appellations of cold, tepid, hot, adorn Livia's Baths at Rome, and
and sudatory ; and the apartment not unlike, in style, to many of the
called tepid, in the mens' bath, painting found in Herculaneum,
usually communicated with the This building could not have been
same apartment in the womens' a Christian church, because the
• bath : and there is no doubt that primitive Christians adorned their
the Bath above described consisted churches with nothing but quota-
of four apartments, as traces of tions from Holy Writ ; therefore it
them may still be discovered. From must, in all jjrobability, have been
the appearance of the Bath now erected previous to the time of
remaimng, it seems to have been Constantine.
lined throughout with marble ; and The Aquediict of CcUdacolli, so
the six Grecian columns on the called from the hot springs which
sides of the bronze doors of the supply ?it, is supposed to be that
puomo, together with the other erected by Nero : ei^ht Arches may
two, winch ornament the principal still be seen at the distance of about
door of the Baptistery, are sup- two hundred yards from the Mo-
Eosed to have been taken from this dem Baths of Pisa ; and ruins of
uilding. In the Garden adjoining the whole are discoverable between,
to the Bath, stood the Monastery ' this spot and the Lucca-gate,
of S. Zenone, commonly called S. No vestiges remain of the an-
Zeno ; of which, however, the cient Port of Pisa, mentioned by
Church only remains ; and in it are Strabo : but it is supposed to have
Sarcophagi, which, though muti- been near the mouth of the Amo,.
lated and almost defaced, still pos- and not far from Leghorn. We
sess sufficient beauty to make us are told that this port was protect-
execrate the hand of avarice, or ed neither by mole nor pier ; and
barbarism, which has thus de- though open to every wind, yet ves-
stroyed these valuable remains of sels rode securely on its bosom,
Grecian sculpture. owing to the size and tenacity of
A house, belonging to the noble the weeds, which were so closely
family Da Paulle, seems to have interwoven as to exclude the agita-
been formed out of the ruins of an tion of the sea.
ancient theatre ; judging from the The Modem Baths, situated
granite columns of ditferent orders about three miles and a half to the
discoverable in the walls. north of Pisa, are elegant, com-
In the suppressed Church of S. modious, and siurounded by seve-
Felice are two Columns of oriental ral good Lodging-houses. These
granite, with Capitals ornamented Baths, the most celebrated in Italy,
by mythological figures, supposed have ttie reputation of being parti-
te represent Jupiter, Harpocrates, cularly beneficial in gouty cases,
Diana, Minerva, Isis, Ceres, and and diseases of the liver.
Genii. They probably belonged to The discovery of two large frag-
a Roman temple, on the site of ments of Columns, with two Ca-
which the church of S. FeUce is pitals, which bear marks of remote
said to have been erected. The antiquity, together with several,
sculpture seems to be of Septimius other concurring circumstances,
Severus's time. seem to indicate that these modem
The Subterranean Part of S, Baths occupy the same ground
Michele in Borgo deserves notice ; witli those mentioned by Strabo
the Pillars and Walls are of pietra and Pliny.
verrucana ; the Roof is tuto, and Tlie Mountain of S. Giuliano,
curiously ornamented with Ara- which rises immedmtely above the.
Ch. IVJ
PISA.
101
Baths, contains some curious Ca-
verns.
The Modem Aqueduct, begun by
Ferdinando I, and finished by his
son, Cosimo II, is a magnificent
work, worthy the Princes of the
House of Medicis: it commences
at a village called Asciano, and
extends to Pisa, a distance of four
miles, conveying to that City the
most pure and delicious water in
Europe.
Jnie Canal, which extends from
Pisa to Leghorn, was made by
Ferdinando 1.
Tlie Royal Farm, or Cascina,
near Pisa, situated in an extensive
and beautiful forest of cork-trees,
ever-green oaks, ^c, and washed
by the sea, is worthy notice ; as it
contains Camels, who, though fo-
reigners, breed here, and are em-
ployed as beasts of burden : they
are, however, much less numerous
at present than they were twenty
years ago. The Grand Duke, Leo-
poldo, was the first person who
attempted to breed camels in
Italy.
The nobility of Pisa, and all the
gentlemen belonging to the Univer-
sity, are remarkably civil and kind
to foreigners ; the lower classes of
people respectful and humane, but
exacting.
The two principal Hotels in this
City are, Le tre Donzelle, and
L" t/ssero, the former of which has
the advantage in point of situation,
but the latter is the better Inn,
though by no means so comfort-
able as private lodgings on that
side of tne quay callea Parte di
mezzo'giomo, for, on the opposite
side, and in many of the streets and
squares, the houses are damp, and
consequently unwholesome.
Travellers should be especially
careful to send for the Fountain-
Water of Pisa that flows tlirough
the Aqueduct ; because the well-
(«) When a man stands candidate for the
honoar of being a combatant, Jie is cased in
armour, and then beat for half an honr with
water, with which the houses are
supplied, is seldom fit either foe
driiudng or even for kitchen use.
The Theatre here is capacious*
but not elegant.
The three Bridges, as already
mentioned, are handsome, espe-
cially the middle one, which is com-
posed of marble and pietra verrU"
carta; and the mock fight, occa-
sionally exhibited on this brid^, is
perhaps almost the only remaming
vestige of those martial games
heretofore so famous among the
Greeks and Romans. The amuse-
ment consists in a battle fought by
960 combatants, who, clothed in
coats of mail, and armed with
wooden clubs, dispute, for forty-
five minutes, the passage of the
bridge. The strongest combatants
Sossess themselves of the field of
attle, and when it is possible to
employ stratagem they never let
slip tne opportunity, but to fight
in earnest is forbidden : neverthe-
less this mock encounter frequently
costs lives, and is, therefore, but
seldom permitted, though one of
the most beautifiil exhibitions in
Italy. Some authors tell us that
it was instituted by Pelops, son of
Tantalus, King of Phrygia; others
think it was established by Nero ;
while others believe it to have been
originally celebrated in memoiy of
the defeat of Musetto, King of
Sardinia, which hap];>ened in the
year 1 005, upon a bridge at Pisa :
out whoever the institutor might
be, the amusement is entered into,
by the Pisans, with a degree of
spirit exceeding all description \
There is likewise, every third
year, on the 17th of June, a sin-
gular and most beautiful illumina-
tion here, in honour of S. Rani-
eri. On this night the whole
Lung'-Amo appears like an im-
mense crescent of magnificent and
regularly built palaces, studded
wooden clubs; during which ceremony, should
he happen to flinch, or cry out, he is rejected ;
but if he do ncttber, he is chosen.
102 NEW ROAD TO GENOA. [Ch,V.
with mmombh qnantitias of dia- tatprs are view^ ai once,, whether
monda; iome jii the Tuscan, othess in balconies, carriages, on foot, or
in the Crothic, and others m the in boati upon the river: and the.
grot^aque or Chinese style of ar- aame cimse renders the Carnival
chitecture (which participates »o at Pisa paHioularJy beautifnl ; for,
mwih of th^ JBgyptian, that many during tne laat we^ of this whim-
persons Misve the Chinese were sical diversion^ the whole quay is
<Kiginally m Sgyptiao colony^.) €lled with masks, from tlu-ee in
A<3 to Oiis» ^ wee bridges, qr^ the aftamoon till the commenc&-
4MU9ient9d ^y imavk^ blazing with ment of Hm pastimes at the thea>>
jewels; and such is the scene tre.
Vflsaeh Pisa presets to vjew at this The Cameia, or Carnival, ap^-
ffeneral illumination : — no wonder, ^ars to have been a festivity ob-
tiiereforet that Aiiosto is said to served in mo^t of the Grecian cit-
have borrowed images from so ties, but especially at Sparta, whene
apli^idid and singular an §xhibi^ ii took birth about 673 years be-
^on, which can only be hkened to fore the Christian »*a, in honour
an enchanted city. of Apollo, sumamed Carneu9, It
The immense }en^ and beau- }asted nine days,
tifiil em>ve of the Pjsa-quay con^ The climate of Pisa, during win-*
tnhute greatly to the splendour ter, is one pf th^ best in Europe,
<^ these acenes, the ground be« though at other seasons not eqoaJljr
ing so shaped that aO the speo* salubrious.
CUAVTEK V.
QENOA, NICE, TURIN, LEGHOKN, LUCCA, ^c.
Ezcanion from Pisa to Genoa, hj the N^w Road— Massa — Carrara — Harbour, Fanale. and
Fortilcations of Genoa — Cathedral, and other Churches — Palazzo Ducale, and other Pa-
laces — University— Albergo dei Poveri, and t)ther Hospitals — School for the Deaf and
]>nmb— <?omenratono Fiaschi — ^Theatres — Aqueduets— Hotels — ^Populatioo — Provisicms —
C^iaukte-^Physiaian — Cliaracttr of the GeaoMe—MABoliurtates— Price of Provisions —
Himse^nBt— New ^ond between Osi^oa and THfia — View a^aad from Genoa to Nice — De-
Mri{>fion «f Nice, and its Clinate-^oumey over the Maritime Alps to Turin — Populatinn
of tj^at CiC7-<-Bri(]ge erected by the French— ^yal Pal&oe- Cathedral, and other
Churches — Theatre — University — ^Public Garden and Ramparts — Hotels — Climate — Water
—Environs — Alessandria — Plain of Marengo — New Road to Genoa — ^Leghorn— Harbour,
jLight-house, Fortifications, and other objects best worth notiee in the Town and its £nvi-
jrons — inns — Lucca — PopviUtion — Royal Palace— Cathedri^ — Other Churches — ^Ancient
Ampbitkeatns — ^Modern Theatre — Character of tbe Lueefaetd— Seminary fooaded by tke
Prinonss £lisn— Inn— M»rUa— Bagni di Laeea— Environs of the Bn^irr^Peasantryr-f
Mode of onltivaling Ais part of the ApM^nine^ViUius betwnen tbe B«ths of Lucca and tk^
^ty-T^lond tkrongli Pisteja to FJorenfi*.
T^E road from Pisa to Genoa has but no further : and, at other sea-
always been passable for carriages, sons, Travellers have frequently
during summer, as far as Lerici, been compelled to embark at Via-
(v) The belief that the Chinese were origin- taining drawings of nearly a thousand antique
ally an Egyptian cofamy, has lately been Vases, retwmblu^ Uunm caUwl Etrnsean, oat
•teengtbeaAd by m diacovenr, in the Cabinet tf Egyptian eiiga.
of Medals at Mitan* «f ft CinjMM work, con-
Ch. VO MASSA-^ARRARA-^AIIZANA, 103
lUggio, a fonall S««port oelebraled Cajrara; whose ^uarriet poduoe ^
for excellfist fish; going thence, Majrt)le, for the purpoges of Sculp-
either in a deok-vefsel, or a feluc- ture, neariy equal in excellence
ca*, to Genoa; between which with that of Mount F^ntelicuf:
City and Pisa there was no Post- though from want of proper care
road till the year 1824, when a in tramportinf the blocks, they
magnificent Bioa4 (oommenoed by are frequently split and ^okea.
the late Govemora of Genoa, and Carrara is built of marble taJcen
<K>ntinued by the present Sore- from the acyt^^ent Quarries; which
reign) was opened between the are worth seeing ; and where fine
Cities of Genoa and Lucca. It Crystals are often foiuuL It owes
traverses a hig^ elevated part of much to its late Sovereign, the
the Apennine, commands sublime Princess EUse ; who converted her
and exquisitely beautiful scenerv ; Palace, here, into an Academy of
and if a few more parapet walls Sculpture, richly stored with mo-
were erected on Ui«i prinks of the dels, both ancient and modera.
precipices, and one or two more The road between Massa and Car-
bridges thrown over the beds of rara, though hilly, is good; and
torrents, this Road would almoft from Carrara to Lavenza. better
vie in excellence with those of than the present Post-road, and
Cenis and the Simplon. not much longer ; consequently.
The ^stance from I^sa to G^ persons who travel m witurier
Doa by the New Route is computed often prefer going through Car-
to be an hundred and twenty £ng^ rara j the Post-road between Massa
bsh miles : and persons who travel and tavenza being, to seven miles,
m poiturier are usually three dajrs narrow, rough, swampy, and dur-
and a half in accomplishing this ing winter aometimea dangerous*.
joum^^ The pleasantest way of fn>m the Port of Lavema* an*-
going is by the road which leads ciently Aventia^ the Canrara mar-
to the Baths of Pisa< ble is now convened to every part
Persons who travel fft ooi'lMrt^, of Europe: but, in former ages, it
afler crossing the Serohio (anciently was embarked at the Portu$ Lw$m,
the An9(9r) on a handsome bridge, and thence called Luna marble,
otteu stop to sleep at the Postr Sarzana*, the ancient Luna^ and
house just beyond Pietra Santa: the next post to Lavensa, is a
but, as there is a pestiferoua Marsh handsome Town, seated near the
in tha^ neighbourhood. Travellers bed of a torrent, which requires a
fbould sleep at the next Post,Maasa, brid^ when ^woln by the melting
on account of the salubrity of its of winter snow. Generally speaks
air, end the beauty of its situation, ing, however^ this torrent does not
Massa is situatsa in a pl^Mant impede TraveUenu Considerable
valley near the sea; and, though vestiges of the ancient Luna may
smMl, contains a handsome Royal be traced in and near Sarzana ;
Reaicience, and a comfortable Ho*- beyond whieh Town the Road
tel y. Five miles distant from this crosses the Magra, a fordable
Town (but not in the high road river during summer ; but passed,
through Lavenza to (jrenoa) is at other seasons, in a pon^ pliant ;
(w) A F«lucoft is 9M opcm Wat, whkh m«kw «a1«9e fte paswiifpr be provided with dinaeir,
VM 9»A of sails and q^w i always keeeiDg ia whioh ease the prie^ ts sis seepkiai.
near the shore ; and, in case of bad weauier, (y^ The Quadrt Naxioni.
raaaiBg iafo harbour. (s) It is in oootemplatioa to make a Poet-
(jv) aiiagle men, tvavrilieir fram Pisa to mad from Massa through Carrara te I*-
Genoa, would do well to hire oae of tke Pisa veaya.
Calesbini, whiek aceompltsk the journey in (a) Inn, The Albergo deffa L*ni^ta»a, and
two days and a half ; and may be kirM lev foM.
tea scudi to tke master, and two to tke drirer;
104
PASSAGE OF THE BRACCO, &c.
[Ch. V.
and where, again, a bridge would very rapid ; and Mattarana con-
be a great .convenience •*. Hence tains a small Inn, where Travellers
the Road ascends, through a luxu- might stop, if needful. Beyond
riant country,to an eminence which this Hamlet the Road ascends
exhibits the grand and beautiful gradually, for about three miles
Gulph of Spezia, presenting itself and a half, at the brink of a tre-
between hiUs clothed to their sum- mendous precipice ; and is hewn
mits with the richest verdure, in rocks of slate, yeUow, green, and
From this eminence the descent to white marble, and beautiful grey
the sea is gradual; and the ap- granite. It then descends for
proach, through an avenue of ac- about eiglit miles ; and, on ad-
cacias, to the little Town of La vancing toward Sestri', presents
SpeziaS is enchanting. The Gulph, the Traveller with a lovely view of
a peculiarly safe and capacious that Town, backed by the sea, and
Harbour, was the ancient Partus displaying hedges of aloes in every
Lunte ahready mentioned. From direction. Hence the Road passes
La Spezia me- road ascends a through a rich but narrow valley,
mountain which commands a fine watered by the Fumera, to Chia-
view of the Gulph ; and then de- vari, a handsome Town, where
scends to the bed of the Magra ; commences the ascent to another
through which it passes: but a branch of the Apennine. This Pas-
new Gallery is making, near Bor- sage, which, like that of the Brac-
ghetto, to avoid the bed of this co, requires parapet walls, is hewn
river. At Borghetto * begins the in the sides of marble rocks at the
Passage of the Bracco, (one of the brink of a precipice overhanging
loftiest simimits of the Apennine,) the sea, and crowned by mountains
over which carriages are conveyed covered to' their summits with
by means of Galleries hewn in the olive-gardens, vineyards, cypresses,
sides of marble rocks. These Gal- maritmie stone pines, ^c. intersect-
leries are narrower than those of ed by villages and villas. The
the Simplon : which is much to be Galleries of uiis Road contain three
lamented ; because they lie at the grottoes ; the two first of which
brink of fearful precipices, and are, are near together, and cut through
at the present moment, 1827, not a solid rod^ of splendid marble;
sufficiently protected by parapet but lined with masonry, which
walls : therefore, if a horse were spoils their effect : the third, about
to start, or be unruly, serious mis- fifteen Roman miles from Genoa,
chief might ensue. Moreover, this is likewise cut through solid rocks
Passage is not screened from sud- of marble ; and exhibits, at its
den blasts of wind; and would,
therefore, be dangerous in stormy
weattier. Fi-om Borghetto to Mat-
tarana (a distance of seven miles)
termination (as it were through a
show-glass) the whole line of coast
to Genoa, with that magnificent
City itself; forming, altogether.
the ascent is continual, but not the most singular and lovely view
(V) At Lerici, f fonneriy Ericis Partus^ in
this neifchbourhooa, persons who do not like to
proceed by land, may embark in a Felucca
for Genoa. The distance, by sea, from Lerici
to Genoa, is abont twenty leagues ; the price
commonly given for a Felucca, from five to six
se^uios; and the time usually employed in
^ing, from twelve to . fifteen hours : though,
if there be no wind, or if the wind be contrary,
Travellers are compelled to land, for the night,
at Portoiino ; a pretty* but comfortless little
fishing-town.
(c) This little Town contains three Inns,
The Hotel cPEurope^ which is very clean
and comfortable ; The Hotel de Londres,
which is very tolerable ; and The Hotel de
rUniverSf remarkably dirty with a bad lar-
der.
((2) The Hotel de LondreSj at Borghetto, is
a tolerable Inn ; .The Hotel d'Jiurope a
very bad one.
(e) A good Inn here, VHotel de la hellt
Europe.
Oh. v.] GENOA. • 105
imi^nable. This Grotto serves Csesarea, when that town was
as an entrance to the Village of captured by Guglielmo Embriaco,
Routa; whence the road descends in 1101 ; and chosen by the G«no-
sradually to Grenoa ; being at the vesi, in preference to other spoils,
latter part bordered on each side This Vase is supposed to nave
with olive-plantations, vineyards, been presented by the Queen of
gardens, and villas. Seba to Solomon, and deposited,
Grenoa, in Italian, Genova, called by him, in the Temple at Jerusa-
La Superbay anciently a City of lem. The mortal remains of S.
Liguria, and the first which fell John Baptist were, according to
under the Roman voke, appears to tradition, brought from Lycia, and
most advantage when viewed from placed by the Genovesi in their
the sea, about one mile distant from Cathedral: and the Chapel con-
the shore : for, then, its numerous taining an iron Urn, reputed to en-
and stately edifices resemble the close the relics of the Saint, is, in
seats of a vast amphitheatre, placed form, a rotondo, incrusted with
on the declivity of the Apennine. BasH'rilievi, and adorned with a
The Harbour of Grenoa is capaci- Statue of the blessed Virein, and
ous, but not safe ; being too much another of S. John, both by Con-
exposed to the LibeciOy or south- tucci. Four Columns of porphyry,
west wind. The Female^ or light- with Pedestals exhibiting Bo^m-
House, is a lofty Tower, built on rilievi of Prophets, by Giacomo
an isolated rock, at the west side deUa Porta, support the Canopy
of the Harbour. The Fortifica- of the Altar,
tions, toward the sea, appear The Church of 8, Ciro, pecu-
strong, being cut out of the rocks ; liarly enriched with marbles, is a
but the naval power of this conn- spacious Edifice, which existed in
try, once so formidable, seems now the year 250 ; and was, from that
reduced to a few galleys, chiefly period till the year 985, the Cathe-
employed in fetching com from oral of Genoa. The High-altar is
Sicily. Genoa is defended by two adorned with sculpture, by Puget :
Walls ; one of which immediately one of the Chapels contains a good
encompasses the town ; whilst the Picture of the Assumption, by
o^er takes in the rising grounds Sarzana ; and in another Chapel,
commanding it. The streets, a under the organ, is a good picture,
very few excepted, are not wide by Pomarancio, of the Adoration
enough to admit the use of car- of the Shepherds,
riages. The roofs of the houses The AnnunzicUa, though built
are flat, and frequently decorated at the sole expense of the Lome-
with orange-trees. Here is a fine lini family, is one of the most
stone Bridge over the Bonzevera, costly Churches in Genoa. It con-
and another over the Bisagno ; the tains two celebrated Pictures, the
former stream washing the western. Last Supper, by Procaccino, and
the latter the eastern, side of the the Crucifixion, by Scotto.
City. S, Ambrogio, which owes much
The Cathedral, dedicated to S. of its splendour to the Pallavicini
Lorenzo, is an ancient Gothic family, is enriched with three cek-
structure, incrusted and paved with brated Pictures ; the Circumcision,
marble ; and adorned with a pic- by Rubens — S. Ignatius exorcising
tureofthe Crucifixion, by Baroccio, a Demoniac and raising the Dead,
and Statues of S. Stefano, S. Am- by the same Master — and the As-
brogio, and the four Evangelists, sumption, by Guido !
by Francavilla. The Sacristy con- Santa Maria in Carignan(^ built
tains an Emerald Vase, found at in obedience to the wiU of Bendi-
m GENOA- [Ch.V.
pelli SauU, a nobl« G^ooege, i» an Fa^ repr^senta the Awansionl
elegaxit piece of architecture ; and Thu Church likewise contains a
the magfni^cent Bridice, leadiog^tp Picture of the Annunciation, bf
it, was erected hy his son. The Cambiaso-<~Ghrist washing the feet
Church contains a Statue of S. of his Disciples, by Pa^*^Christ
Sebastiano, by Puget !-^another of sinking under the weight of hip
^e beatifiea Alessandro Sauli, Cross, by Paggi-^^-and the Madonna
likewise by Puget-^an interesting fnod Saints, 1^ CasteUo,
Picture of S» Peter and S. John The MadwmHkk is a fmaU
curing the Paralytic, by DomenicQ Church* enibellishad with severid
Piola i-^the MarWdom of a Saint, IHctures : among which are Christ
by Carlo Milratta^— the blessed vvith 8. James and S. Philip, by
Virgin, the Saviour, and Saints, by Pag^;i— the Annunciation, by Ga**
Girolamo Piola<-«and S.Francesco, leotti-— the Salutation, by Tinto«>
by Gueroino. The Organ is a very retto^--the Madonna, by Carlo
$ne one ; and the view from the Dolci— the Nativi^ by Ratti-^^^nd
Cupola well worth seeing. the Assumption oi the Virgin, eJt*
S' Ste/ano aUe Porte contains a tributed to Raphael* The two iaat
celel^ated Picture, which was are in the Sacristy,
taken to Paris during the time of The Palazzo JOueaie, ^here th«
Napoleon ; but is now brought Doges once resided, is a large mo«-
back, and replaced in its original si- dem Building, erected in conse*-
tuation over the High-altar of this quence of a fire, which consumed
Church. The Picture represent^ uie ancient edifice. The gre^t
the Martyrdom of S. Steptien : the Council Chfrnheft magnificent in
upper part was painted by Raphael, point of size, and ornamented by
the lower part by Giulio Romano ; Columns and Pilasters of Broca*
and, when at Paris, the whole wa9 tello, (which support a Gfdlery,
retouched by David \ I • occupied on pubhc occasions by
iSi. Maiteo^ built by the Doria fa- Spectators and Bands of Music,)
mUy, contains Ste4;ues of Uie Evan- once contained statues, in marble,
gelists, ^. by Montorsoli; and 'of persons eminent for their pub-
here, in a Subterranean Chapel, lie services; but revolutionary
rest the remains of Andrea d'Oria. frensy destroyed these statues {
Santa Maria del Ca^tello con-r and th^ are now replaced by
tains two old Pictures, painted on others, theheads of which are plas^*
wood gilt, by Luigi Brear-the Mar ter, and the drapery linen stuffed
donna, S. Catherine, and the Mag-. wiUi straw. Here, likewise, .are
dalene, by Castiglione*T^ Frescos, by two Paintings, copied from two
Carlone — and, in the Sacrist^r, a celebrated works by SoUmene,
picture of S. Sebastiano, by Titian, which were eonsumed with the an*
8. Filippo Neri is a handsome cient edifice : one represents the
Church, the Ceiling of which was Consecration of the Remains of S*
painted by Legnani and Frances-* Johu ; the other the Ijanding of
fluni ; and in the adjoining Oratory Columbus in America : and above
Is a Statue of the Madonna, by the door of the Senatorial Cham-
Puget. ber is the Prow of an ancient Car-
S. Francesco di Paolo contains thagenian Galley ; its length being
two celebrated Pictures, both* of about three spans, and its greatest
which adorned the Paris Gallery thickness about two-thirds of a
during the time of Napoleon. One foot : it was discovered near the
of these Pictures, by Cambiaso, beach in 1597, in consequence of
represents the Adoration of the the Harbour being cleaned ; audit
St^pberds I aad the otb^» by suppee^ to have remained tbinu
Qh V.l
GENOA.
W
fromthetim^of anavalbftttleber PaJotingf mi gUt Omamfint* Qf
tween 1h« Gr^oese and the Cartha- thu apflrtraent fure bv Doaifnif)^
geniaQ eommaadfr, Mago '* PafodL At U10 end of tha Gallery
The Pahst^o del 8ig, MareeiiQ ate two Salotme; one being paini'
Durazzo, (now the Koyoji Re»f ed in freiOQ by Ca«tello ; and tha
dence«)contain9nobteapartnient3 other by Colonna and MitellL
£fplendidly funiished, am a large Here likewise it a celebrated Buat
coUeqtton of Fictures, }n the of Villus!! On returning baak
greai Hall, is a Pfunting by Bertor Hurough the Gallery, Strangers are
lotto, whioh vepreeentis the Au<- conducted into a Saloon, the Ceil«
dieace given by fiie Grand Signior ing of which waa painted by Do*
to the Genoese A«ba9fador»Agoe<» menico Farodi; and thence into
tine Duraaso*-another, by Pome- another Room^ painted in fireseo
nieo Piola, representing a FSte by Boni. The Saloon of Time is
given by the GriMid Sig^uHr to the adorned with a Ceiling by Psrods*
same An^assadoiv^a PcH*trait of and the following Easel Pictures:
the Anibassador, by Carlone-*-twp — a half-length figure of S. Cathe*
Portraits of Doges, by Sarzana— - rine of Sweden, by Carlo Dolei-r*-
another Doge, of the burejeso fe^ the ceremony of Confirmation in
mily, by Domenico Parodi — and a presence of a Freneh Monarch, by
small Cfhapel painted in fresco, by Albert Durer — Portrait of Anna
the same Artist ; who has likewise Bullen, by John Holbein the
embellished it with Sculpture. The younger— a Head, by Tintoretto-^*-
Saloon qf Giordano contains — Phi- a Hc^, by Titian f — two Pictures
neus turned into stone by Perseus ! by Borgognone-^two Pictures, by
— ^and Ohndo and8o|^onia saved Jacopo Bassano, namely, the De^
from deaft, hv Clonnda ! These luge, and Jacob's Journey — a Boy
Pictures are oy Griordano. Mary lighting a Firebrand, by. Leaadro
waidiing the Saviour's feet, Ysy Bassano— ^a Head, lwTinteretto-*<
Paris Bordone-x-^he Madonna and Ha^ar with her Child and the
Jnfiuit Jesus, by Cappuecino^— An^el, by Domenico Parodi — S.
Portrait of a Nobleman in a Catherine of Genoa, bv the same
Spanish dress, by Vandyck — ^Adam mastsr-i— six Pictures, by Castig-
and £ve banished fixrni Paradise, lione ; that representing a Satyr
by Procaccinor— the Madonna and and a Bacchante being the best
In&nt Jesus, by Vandyck — and a — ^and two Children in the same
faalfrlength figure of a Prelate, by Picture, by Domenico Piola. The
Cappuccino. The Saloon of Paoto Chamber of Aurora, who, with
nontains the ehef-d' enivre oi Fmolo Cephalus, is painted on the Ceil-
Veronese, the Blagdalene at oar ing, by Boni, contains, — Peter
Saviour's feet in the house of the denying Christ — axid another Pie«
Pharisee!!! The Oallerif eonUinsi ture of a dead Christ, by Cara-
severalpiecesof Sculpture; among vaggio^-^o half-lengUi Female
which are a Group of a Sat3rr and Fibres, that in a Spanish dress
a Nymph, supposed to be Gredan bemg by Vandyck, the other, hold*
woHcmanshipry-and four modem ing a small mstrument, by the
Statues, 1^ Filippo Parodi. The Cav. del Cairo--a Head of the
(/) Vfartbc Cvstom-Sosse, is » BuldUis
Apprajpriated to ^e Tribaiu»l of Commerce, U
attother pref;loas Monument of Antiquity, a
Broase Table, foaa4 accidentally in I'oLoe*
Tera, ky » peasant, when he wae trenching the
earth, A. 1>. 15u6. The Inscription on this
Table is well preserved i Mid ftppean to havie
been vrittea about the year S3S, aftn the
fooodation of B<oiiie.
(^g) The King of Sardinia, on becoming
Sovereign of Oe&oa, pnrckaMd this P^tiace;
aod ha» also reeei|tly pttrchased the Palace of
the Duchess d'Oria'^ruriis, Csitrada- Nuova.)
ia potat of ai»hiteotujre a.»pl«idid ediUce;
no aiMOA. [<5h.v.
Cato fallings on fais swoitl, hv IBorione. The Gallerjr of Oomtim-*
Guercino f — the TncreduKty of 8. nication between the Apartments,
Thomas, by Cappuccino— the Holy is ornamented with a Painting of the
Fami)y, by Pj-ocaccino— the An- Temple of Diana, by Viviani, and
ttunciation, painted on copper, bt Figures by Paolo Gvolamo, and
Lodorico Caracci !— a half-length Domenico Piola. The fifth Saloon,
Figure with a Beard, painted on ealied Human Life, contains-^fonr
wood, by Lucas de Leydenf— S.. half-length Figures, each repm-
Paul, by Capnuccino — ^the Nati- senting an Apostle, by Procaccfna
tity, by Paolo Veronese— 4;he Sa- ^— S. John Baptist, by Cs^uccina
viour bearing his Cross, by Lan- —Portrait, supposed to represent
franco — and Circe and tflysses, Vandyck's Nurse, by Paolo Vero-
by Scorza. The Autumn Saloon iiese — ^the Assumption of the Ma-
contains— the Madonna enthroned, donna, painted on copper, by Cor-
with the Infknt Jesus, S. John regfido!! — Portrait of a Lady of
Baptist, and other Saints, by Goer- the Brignole family and herDaugh-
cino !— the Adoration of the Magi, ter, by Vandyck — Christ in the
byPalmaVecchio — ^Abraham jour- Garden of Olives, painted on cop-
neying with his Family and Ani- per, by Carlo Dofci ! — the Car of
mals, by Castiglione — Dsedalus Love, byAlbano! — Christ appear-
and Icarus, by Andrea Sacchi — ingto me Magdalene after nis re-
8. Francesco, Dy Cappuccino— the surrection, by Albano — ^the Deity
Holy Family, painted on wood, in and the Infiant Jesus, by Guercino
the style of Andrea del Sarto— — and Jesus and S. Veronica, by
Portrait of a young Man, by Titian Antonio Caracci! The Chamber
-—Portrait of a Cardinal, by Scipio qfthe Virtues of the Country con-
Gaetano — S. Mark, hall'-length, tains the foUovnng Pictures by
by Guido! — S. Peter weepii^, by Beferrarir — Numa ordaining Sacri-
Lanfranco — and Vulcan's ra-ge, fices — Mutius Scsevola in the pre-
by Jacopo Bassano. The Winter sence of Porsenna — the Continence
saloon contains a large Picture re- of Scipio— and Titus Manlius Tor-
presenting the Madonna, the In- quatus condemning his Sons. The
rant Jesus, Saints, and Angels, by thapel-Ch^amher contains — ^Tar-
Bordone — another laige Picture quin and Lucretia, by Sarzana —
representing the Holy Famihr and David and Saul, l^ Passignano —
Angels, by Procaccinof — Judith Jesus and his Disciples in me* Gar-
givmg the Head of Holofemes to den of Olives, by Bassano ! — and
a Slave, by Paolo Veronese — ^ a the Wise and foolish Virginifi, by
Philosopher, by Spa^oletto — a Tintoretto. The Frescos in the
Woman with a Flower m her hand. Chapel are by Domenico Parodi ;
painted on wood, by John Holbein as likewise is, Heimione at her
— S. John Baptist, by Iieonardi da Toilette, in the Ante-clumber, The
Vinci — ^the Hx)ly Family, by Pel- Saloon, ealied the Trials of Youth,
legro Piola I— ditto, by Cappuccino contains a Picture painted on
—-Portrait of a Genoese Senator, wood, by Rubens ; and represent-
by Rubens f-^the Tribute Money, ing hunself and his wife f— Cleo-
by Vandyck ?*-the Flight into E- patra with the Asp, by Guercino f
gypt, by Carlo Maratta— S. Rocco — ^the Martyrdom of a Saint, by
extended on the earth with persons Paolo Veronese — Charity, by Cap-
dying of the Plague and Angels ho- puccino — the blessed Virgin, the
Tering near, by Domenichino— the Infant Jesus, and a Figure wor-
Annunciation,byPaoloVeronese — shipping him, by Giacomo Bas-
S. Caterina, by Baroccio — and a sano I — Soldiers skirmishing, by
half-length Figure with a Beard, by Vandyck — and Noah sacr^cing
Ok v.] (JKNOA. Ill
ftfter the Deluge, by Scorza. f)u a Landscape, by Poussint — the
Summer Saloon, called Patriotism, Saviour and the Woman of Sa-
contains a Picture of the entrance' maiia, by the same artist — and the
of the AnimaJg into the Ark, by Saviour crowned with thorns, by
Castiglione! — a Woman plucking Cappuccino. The second Saloon
a Goose, by Ca|)puccino — and contains — ^two Pictures, represent-
Shepherds with Animals, by Gio- ing Autumn and Winter, oy Bas-
vanni Hosa. Several of the apart- sano. The third Saloon contains
ments in this Palace derive their ^a Ceiling, by CasteDo, which
names from the Frescos by Defer- represents the Exploits of Scipio
rari, Affner, Piola, Parodi, &c., in Spain: and among the Easet
which ornament the Ceilinfi;9. Pictures are — a Portrait, by Ben-
The PaUvtzO'Serra^ deserves venuti Garofolo — the Madonna^
notice on account of its Saloon, by Paggi — Cupid, by Valentin —
One of the most sumptuous apart- Susanna and the Elders, by Cap«
ments in Europe. puccino — Bacchus and other ¥{•
The Palazzp^Spinola^ contains gures, by Rubens— Christ and S.
the following Pictures: — HcUl', Veronica, by Tintoretto — ^the Ma*
Fl'escos representing the Exploits donna and Infknt Jesus, by Gio-
of the Amazons, by Andrea Sem- vanni BeDino— Christ on the Cross*
mino. — Oil-painting: — Portrait of by Vandyck — the Madonna, the
a Man on horseback, by Vandyck Saviour, and Saints, by Liiini —
— four figures of the Virtues, by Christ crowned with thorns, at-
Domenico Piola — Landscapes with tributed to Titian — and a Portrait,
Ammals, by Bassano. First Sor by Andrea del Sarto.
toon. The Ceiling, painted by The Palazzo^Carega^'i^ sAomei
CasteQo, represents the Death of with Frescos, by Castello, and the
Cassius — the Triumvirate of Au- following Easel Pictures: — Ani-
gustus — ^Anthony and Lepidus — mals, by Giovanni Rosa — ^the Mar
Andiony besieged at Perugia — donna, the Infant Jesus, and S«
Anthony hard pressed at Modena Domenico, by Solimene— the De-*
— and reace between Anthony and scent from the Cross, by Procac-
Pompey. Among the Oil-paintings cino — Christ appearing, after his
are, — ^two Portraits, by Andrea del Resurrection, to the Magdsisne,
Sarto — Portrait of a Senator, by by Franceschini— the Woman of
Tintoretto — ^the Madonna with the STamaria, bv the same artist — ^the
Infant Jesus, Joseph, and S. John Woman of Canaan at our Sa-
Baptist, by Guido — Portrait of a viour's feet, by P. G. Piola! — ^the
literary Man, by Sebastiano del Holy Women with the Angel at
Piombo — ^the Nativity, by Bassano the Holy Sepulchre, by the sams
— ^the Madohna and Infant Jesus, artbt ! — the Adoration of tha
by Mecherino of Siena, one of his Magi, by Paolo Veronese— the
best works — Diana bathing, by Madonna and Infant Saviour, by
Luca Cambiaso — a dead Christ, Cignani!^5. Luke, by Guercino
by Cappuccino — a Guitar Player, — Isaac with Rebecca and Jacobs
hy Valentin. — ^Tobias giving sight by Cappuccino ! — Portrait of Ru-
to his Father, by Cappuccino — bens, painted by himself—Portrait
Venus, attributed to Titian — a of a Frelate, by Vandyck — a Si-
Head, by Vandyck I — a Portrait, byl, by Simone da Pesaro — APietd^
by Titiaiv— David, by Guido— two by Carlo Maratta— S. Sebastiano,
small Pictures, by Cappuccino — by Caravaggio — Jacob's Sons
Jacob's Journey, by Castiglione-* shewing him the bloody garments
(0 Strada-Naoya. (i>) Strada-Kaoya.
(») Ibid,
112
GENOA*
[Ch. V-
of Joseph, by Guercino — Judith
and her Servant, by the same
artist ! — Herodias with the Head
of S. John, by Titian I— the Holy
Family, by Procaccino — ^the Ma-
donna and Infant Jesus, by the
same master! — andRachael seated
on the Idols of Laban, by Castig-
lione. The Ceiling of the Gallery
is painted by Deferrari, and repre-
sents the History of ^Eneas : and
the Chapel contains a Group, in
marble, of the Madonna and In-
fant Jesus, by Puget.
Palazzo del Sig. Gaetano Cam-
btaso. On the ground-floor of
this edifice are the Public Baths.
The first Saloon, on thi right,
contains several small Pictures ;
one of which, Santa Maria Mad-
dalena, by Albano, is much ad-
mired. Here hkewise is the Ador-
ation of the Shepherds, by Dome-
nico Piola — and the Adoration of
the Magi, by Castello. T/ie third
Saloon contains — David with the
Head of Goliah, by Guercino —
Christ appearin£^ to the Magda-
lene, by Carlo Marattal — a por-
trait of Calvin, by Holbein — a
Philosopher, painted on wood, by
Lucas de Leyden — ^the Flight into
Egypt, by the same master — ^the
Decapitation of S. John Baptist,
by Guercino — ^the Marriage of S.
Catherine, by Carlo Maratta — a
half-length Female Figure, Carac-
ci- School — ^twohalf-lengthFigures,
by Palma Giovane — ^the Marriage
of S. Catherine, by Albano — §.
Luke, by Guido — ^the Holy Fa-
mily and S. John, by Raphael —
and. the Holy Family, by Andrea
del Sarto. The fourth Saloon
contains — the Holy Family, by
Palma Giovane — the Deposition
from the Cross, by Lodovico Ca-
racci — ^three Portraits, by Vandyck
— and one by the Caracci-School.
The fifth Saloon contains — S. John
Baptist, by Sirani — ^the Magdalene,
by Guido — ^the Deposition from the
Cross, by Lucas de Leyden — and
(o) Near the
the Madonna and Infant Jesus, by
Carlo Maratta.
Palazzo- Grillo' Cataneo *. A-
mon^ the numerous Pictures
which enrich this Edifice are the
following: — Hall. Portrait of a
Lady seated, by Rubens — a large
Landscape, by Tempesta — the
Madonna and Infant Jesus, by
Velasquez — a Flute PJayer, by
Caravaggio — Narcissus, by Do-
menico Parodil^a large Picture
of Animals, by Tempesta — the
Saviour crowned with thorns, Ca-
racci-School — the Adoration of
the Shepherds, by Domenico Piola
— three Angels, by Procaccino —
Sampson, by Paolo Veronese — ^the
Martyrdom of S. Stephen, by
Pietro da Cortona — and the Depo-
sition from the Cross, by Sebas-
tiano Conca. Cabinet, The Holy
Family, by Albano — the Flight
into Egypt, by Castiglione — Moses
striking the Rock, by Ciro Ferri —
the Passage of the Red Sea, by
Tempesta — ^the Madonna with the
Infant Jesus asleep, by Frances-
chini — Portrait of a Lady, by Ti-
tian — Animals entering the Ark,
by Tempesta — and a Sea- Port, by
Brand. Bedc/iamber. The Ma-
donna, the Infant Jesus, and An-
gels, by Cambiaso ! — and a Battle,
by Borgognone. Saloon, The
Incredulity of S. Thomas, by De
ferrari — an Ecce Homo, Caracci-
School ! — Christ banishing the
Buyers and Sellers from the Tem-
ple, by Salvator Rosa ! — a Land-
scape, by Brughet -r- the Holy
Family, by Schidone — S. Agnes
with the Lamb, by Andrea del
Sarto — a Woman playing with a
Parrot, by Mieris — S. Francesco,
by Strozzi! — a Jew, by Mieris —
Christ appearing to the Magda-
lene, by Rubens — Luther and Ca-
therine, by Bordone! — the Ma-
donna, the Infant Jesus, and
Saints, by Sarzana! — the Holy
Family and S. Anne, by Simone
da Pesaro — a Portrait attributed
Porta-Portello.
Oh. v.] <5EN0A. 113
to Titian ; though, according to dyek f— and a Picture repres«iting
some opinions, it is a Portrait of Music, by Guercino. Tne Saloon^
Calvin, painted by Holbein — Por- contiguous to the Eaiing-room,
trait of a Philosopher, by Dome- contains — S. Francesco, by Strozzi
nichino — the Martyidom of S. —the Magdalene, by Romanelli —
Stephen, by Lodovico Caraccil— S. Peter, by Rubens — the Ma-
the Circumcision, by Procaccino— donna and infant Jesus, by Schi-
the Madonna and Infant Jesus, by done — the Madonna praying, by
Immola — Views of Rome, by Strozzi f — Jacobus Journey, by
Vanlind-— the Holy Family and S. Giacomo Bassano-— S. John Bap-
John Baptist, by Raphael I ^~ a tist, by Antonio Caracci — the
Child in Regal Robes, by Rem- Magdalene borne by Aneels to
brandt — and a Prelate, by Rubens. Heaven, by Franceschini — the
The Gallery contains a nne Land- Madonna della Gohnna, by Ra-
se^, by Tavella. phael ! !— and Saints Girolamo and
The PalazzO'Pallavicim " con- Francesco, by Guercino. Summer
tains several good Pictures; a- So/oon— Diana bathing with her
mong which are the following :— Nymphs, and ActsBon transformed
Ante-Hall — a Man on Horseback, into a Stag, by Albano ! — a small
by Parodi — and a Lady with a Landscape on wood, by Brughet
little Boy, by Vandyck. Saloon — ^the Buth of Adonis, by Fran-
tDith a fire-mace — ^Abraham's Sa- ceschini — ^the Madonna, the Infant
erifice, by' Franceschini — Hagar Jesus, &c., by Luctts de Leyden —
with Ismael, by the same master S. Francesco praying, by Guido—
— the Magdalene, painted on cop- the Deposition from the Cross, by
S9r,byAnnibaleCaracci — ^Joseph's Albert Durer— the Madonna, witn
ream, with the Madonna, &c., the Infant Jesus sleeping, by
painted on copper, but not fi- Franceschini — and the Holy Fa-
nished, l^ Lodovico Caracci — a mily in repose, by Lucas de Ley-
Landscape with Animals, by Cas- den.
tiglione — Silenus intoxicated, by TA^Paia^rjro-itfan is ornament -
Rubens !— the Woman detected in ed with a large Portico, containing
Adultery, by Spagnoletto — Bath- a colossal Statue of Hercules, by
sheba bathing, by Franceschini — Filippo Parodi. In tfie great Hall
the Deposition from the Cross, by are — a Picture by Castillo — ano-
Lucas de lieyden ! — ^Mutius Scaj- ther by Castiglione — and four
vola holding his right hand over Portraits, by Vandyck. The Ceil-
the fire in presence of Porsena, ing of the first Saloon on the
painted on wood, by Guercino ! — right was painted by Domenico
Rebecca giving water to Abra- Parodi, and represents Truth and
ham^s Sta^, t^ Assereto — the Time. Among the Easel Pictures
Birth of the Madonna, by Luca in this Room are — ^the Adoration
Giordano— the Presentation of the of the Magi, by Carlo Maratta —
Madonna, by the same artist — S. Rocco curing a Person infected
and two Landscapes; by Bassano. with the Plague, by Borgognone —
Drawing-room — Cleopatra with the Magdalene, by Franceschini —
the Asp, by Semmino I — a Sacri- Animals, by Castiglione — Chil-
fice to Pan, by Castiglione I — dren, by Domenico Piola — and a
Romulus discovered by Faustulus, half-length Female Figure, by
likewise the production of Castig- Vandyck. The Second Scuoon con-
lione I — Venus and Cupid, by tains — ^the Adoration of the Magi,
Cambiaso— Veturia entreating Co- by Carlo Maratta — a small Head,
riolanus to save Rome, by Van- painted on copper, by the same
(») Piazsa-Qaribaldi. (o) Piafxa-Campetto.
114
®«NQA.
E^,¥>
JPsama^Ve^chio-rri-n Old Woman, gu^Qari -r three l^rgQ PictvflF^S
by ditto— 8, Fran^etsiQO, by Albapa representing Scripture Histqiies,
T^ a. Paul, by (?!uei»cino -^ thQ by Franqesebini 1 -" Calyaiy, by
M«mRg^, Qf Bt Cathmne, by G^rlone -^ a amail Qppy 9f th<^
Pftoio Veronese -r^ the S^ppe¥ f^ Transfiguration, attnl^tecl to oni^
Emma^up, by Gu^rino rm g. John of the Garaeci ftoiW— a Pi^Q, b»
baptist in the Pesext, by (Juido-^^ Gftrlp Mftrftttft^-aad the Birth of
^ Madonnp. md Infant Jesus, the Saviour, attributed to Scbidon^t
by Oorreggip, painted en ec^pev J and likewise to Qorr^^Q J 4no^
-.^ Christ bewnng his Cross, by ther Apartment contains! -^ th^
Titian l-^Portrait of an Qld Per- Holy Fainily, by Borgognone-r-,
9Qn with a Beard, by Vandycfe-^ Abrahwn'g BaQnfipe> by ditto -^
S, Girolam^Jt, by Spagnoletto— «, Pishes, by Gai^ogli— -the Holy F^r
Philosopher studying, School of mily, by Castello — Fruits, by Ga,-.
Titjan— Christ represented as a mogU—the Madonna a»d Ip&nt
YQuth with the Criobe in his hand, Jesus, CaraQci-School — a Lan4'»
ftt^ibuted to Raphael^-the Hply scape, by Tempesta— a Landscape
Wtmxly, painted on eopper, by attributed to Pougsin-^a Battle, by
Eaphael-^a Woman sleeping, atr tiie Gav. d'Arpino — Landseapei^,
tribute4 either to Titian, or Palnia by Wael— Faith with an Infant,
Ve^bio^^two Infants, by Pome-s by Pomenico Piol^ — GbariJty, l^
niea Piola—rS, Louis, painted on ditto — ^the Marriage of Cannji, by
copper, by (3^uido | ttts and three Bassano^n-the Adoration of the
sniall Pictures on copper, by the Magi, painted on wpoiA, by Parmi-.
Oaraoei family. Th^ Qc^hty is gianino — the Flight into Efypt^ by
ornamented with Frescos, by Po-r Guido — a Wet-nurpe with \\^x
menioo Piola. Child, and other Figures, by An-t
Palaz9Q-8jpdnehK Among the nibale Oaracei! — ; the Woman of
Pictures here are the following :— » Slamaria, by Lupa Giard^nOr— Anc|
ffall-r-'Troy in flames, by Lucca Asss^ssins, Oy Wael.
Giordano — and the Gumaean Sibyl The P(d(W9o IXQria P^t^lli^
eonducting w^neas to the Lake beyond the Porta San Tonimaso,
AvemuB, bv Carlone. QcUleryr^ is the largest of all the Genoese
The Holv Family, painted o& cop-> Palaces ; but, being negleeted, i^
per, by Albano — Sketches, by GJt hastening fast tp decay. The fine
ordano, of Pictures now in the BVesco of Jupiter annihilating the
Paris Gallery — r a large Landr Giants, with which this edifice wa^
scape, by Brughet — a Saint, by enriched by Pierino del Vaga, iS|
Carlo Maratta — the Arch-Angd however, well preserved ; and th^
Gabriel, l^ ditto — ^Joseph before Garden contains a statue of A^t
Pharaoh, iW Le Sueur — S. Sebas- drea d'Oria, in the chara^^tei* pf
tiano, by Guido — the Madonna Neptune',
with the Infant Jesus sleeping, by The Unwersity, a splendid e4if
Guercino — the Family of Tobias, fice, has, in its Vestibule, twQ
hy Domenichino— tiie Magdalene, Lions of marble, which are mueh
by Guido — S. Carlo Borromeo, admired. The Hall of the Far
(p) Near the Piaxsa-Fontana Amorosa.
(jq) Duku Pasqua has receatly fambhcd
hif residence el^^antly, and enriched ^t with
the following pictures : Ist room. — The £U>Iy
family, by Leonardo da Vinci. — Oallen/.
PoKtrftit c^ a Ladjr, by Bassano— portrait offi
ijfeatl^man, by H^e same Artist— the Madonna
and' Infant Sanoar, with S. John, by Fra
Bartolommeo— and » Portmit, hf Titimi, Srd
room. — ^Bacchns and Ariadne, by Sebastiane
del Piombo 1— portrait of a Laay, by Vav
dyck— a Picture called Qiacalleri, by Cart^
vaggio — the Hours, by Raphael I -i- Love*
dancing, by the same master ! — a dead
Christ, the Madonna, and other Figures, by
Rubens — and the same sutnect, by peb^tian^
del Piombo.
Oh.V.3 BENOA. • 111
eulhr of Justice IS embellished with Bartoldmraeo Bosoe, is a nobk es-
a Reture of the Assumption I^- tablishment for the Sick of all
and another of the Holy Family — nations ; and likewise for Found-
both 1^ Galeotti ; with several lings : the Boys remaining till th^
good Paintings by Feirari. The sure able to work; the Girls stiU
Hall of Theology contains a Pie? longer. The number of Sick Per*
ture of the Salutation, by Sarzana sons contained in this Hospital
•^thd Assumption, by Galeottir-? has frequently exceeded one thour
and othnr paintings, l^ Ferrari, sand ; and the number of Found-
The Hall of rhilosophv eontains a lings ^ree thousand.
Picture of the Salutation, by Dof ne Hospital oflnoupobies is i^
menico Parodi — three small Faint- noble establishment,
ings, representing Apollo and the Tke Schooi for the D^tf emd
Muses ; Plato dictating to his Dumb, founded by the Abate Oe^
Disciples; and Aristotle with hii| tavio Assarotti, in 1801, receives
Scholars -ra Female weeping at twenfy* two Boys, and eleven Girls;
the menaces of a Warnor — othev who ai)e either instructed hi the
pictures, by Ferrarir->and a fine art of engraving upon wood, t»
Bgure of 6. Ignatius, by Pede- copper, or taught some usefbl
monte. The Hall of Medioine ia trade.
adorned with Paintings by Ferrari, Tk^ ConservatpHo deile Ffe-
and the Gi?eat Hall of the Uni- sohine, at Zerbino, is capable of
vereity eontains fine Frescos, by receiving three, humhred persons j
Andrea Carlone— a Picture of the and artificial Flowers, famous
Cireumcision. by Sarzana — and throughout Europe, are made here,
tix Statues of bronze, by Gio- Grenoa eontains two Theatres ;
vanni di Bologna ; those which that of S. Agostono, and that of
represent Faith and Hope being The Falcone; neither of which
^e bast. accords, in point of splendour,
Tke Albergo dei Poveri, per- with the other public edifices*!
haps tibe most magnificent Hosr but although these edifices, and
pital in Europe, stands upop a those of inSviduals, are peculiarly
lofty eminence ; and was founded magnificent, although the palaces
by a Nobleman of the Brignoli are cased with marble, and the
family, to serve as an asylum for Strada-Balbi, the Strada-Nuova,
upward of a thousand persons, and the Strada-Nuovissima, are
from old age, and other causes, strikingly superb, still the nar-
reduced to want. It is, at the rowness of the other streets, and
present moment, sufficiently capa- the want of spacious piazzas,
cious to lodge above two thousand gives an air of melancholy to the
persons; and serves as a refuge Town in general: its environs,
for the Destitute, a house of Cor- however, are exempt from this
reetion, and a School, where every defect ; and display a delightful
individual able to work is taught union of ^andeur and cbe^ul-
some useful trade. The Church ness ; the whole road to Sestri ', a
belonging to this Edifice contains distance of five Genoese miles,,
a Basso-rilievo, by Michael An- exhibiting a line of Villas, nearly
gelo, of the Madonna embracing equal in size and splendour to the
the dead body of Christ I and an palaces within the precincts of the
Assumption, in marble, by Puget 'I City.
The Great Hospital, founded by The Aqueducts which supply
(r) The situation of this Hospital has of (t) A new and superb Theatre Js now
late beooaie unhealthy. buiidinf , and wUl shortly he completea.
(0 Sestri, on the road to Savona.
I 2
116 • GENOA. [Ch.V.
Gknoa with water are six leagues public Wotks, and public cha-
in extent; and so commodiously rities. The Common People are
arranged that every story of every active and industrious ; and the
house has its fountain : perhaps, Silks, Velvets, Damasks, and Pa-
however, the quality of the water per of Genoa, have long been ce-
may be injured by passing a con- lebrated.
siderable length of way through Provisions in this City are about
leaden pipes. the same pride as at Rome ; house-
Genoa contains good Hotels " ; rent is considerably cheaper ; but
audits population, including San ready-furnished lodgings are diffi-
Pietro d' Arena, but not the Port, cult to obtain '.
is supposed to amount to 85,000 The magnificent Post-road of
inhabitants. It has given birth Fal di Scrivia, begun by the late
to several distinguished Charac- Government and continued by the
ters, pre-eminent among whom present, in order to avoid the dan-
were Columbus, and Andrea gerous Passage of the Bocchetta,
d*Oria\ An Italian proverb between Genoa and Turin, is now
says of this City, " that it has sea, completely finished ; and extends
without fish ; land, without trees ; to Novi, where it joins the old
and men, without faith." The road to Alessandria,
provisions, however, not excepting The Post-road from G«noa to
nsh, are excellent; but the wine Nice, likewise begun by the late
is, generally speaking, of an infe- Government, and continued by the
rior quality; and the climate by present, is now (as already men-
no means a good one. The coun- tioned in the commencement of
try, though thinly wooded, is, in this Work) open for carriages of
some parts, romantic and beauti- all descriptions ; well supplied
ful ; but its inhabitants are reputed, with Post-horses, and furnished
to want faith, like their Ligurian with tolerable Hotels, This Road,
ancestors. The Genoese School from Genoa to Noli, and again
of Medicine stands high in Italy ; from Ventimiglia to Nice, has
and Doctor Scassi, who speaks long been practicable for carriages :
English, and has also studied at and during -the current year, 1827,
Edinburgh, is an eminent Genoese the Nissards, to accommodate the
Physician. The Nobles of the King and Queen of Sardinia,
country^ are too often deficient in finished the intermediate part, so
education, and seldom fond of as to make it perfectly safe for the
literature : they rarely inhabit the carriages of their Sovereign, and
best apartments of their superb likewise for others : and we have
palaces ; but are said to like a every reason to suppose the Nis-
splendid table ; though their chief sards will do their utmost to be-
^atification has always consisted nefit a Road which must ulti-
in amassing wealth for the lauda- mately prove to them a mine of
ble purpose of expending it on gold. Its length from Genoa to
r«) The Hotel de York is excellent ; The franc ; appealing to' the tariff to prove that
Botel de la Ville spacioos, bat dear; The his demand is legal.
Crocs di Malta reasonable with respect to (v) This great Admiral and Patriot well
living, but not so mnch calculated ^r Fami- deserved the following eulogy, inscribed b^
lies as for single men. The Hdtel de Londres the Genoese Republic upon the base of his
is a ffood Inn ; and The Hdtel de la Paste, statue. " Andrea d'Ona, the best of Citi-
though small, is comfortable and cheap. Tra* zens, the successfal Champion, and the Re*
▼ellers, on arrivin^^ at an Hotel in this City, storer of public liberty."
•re usually assailed by a host of Porters ; (to) Travellers, before they quit Genoa,
each of whom, if he carry even the smallest are obliged to have their passports eacamined
of parcels from the Traveller's carriage to and signed at the Police Office ; paying, for
his apartment in the Hotel, demands half a the signature, about four francs.
Ch..V.] NICE—MARITIME ALPS. 117
Nice is computed to be about one winter-snow. It was constructed
hundred and twenty miles ; and under the reign ofVictor-Amadeus-
persons who travel en voiiurier Maria, King of Sardinia (who
usually accomplish this Xoumey in completed it in seventeen years) ;
four days. The Posts are thirty- and has lately been improved by
five and three-quarters in number ; the French, especially between
and the road passes through Sa- Nice and Scarena'. It lies, for
Yona, Noli, OnegUa, Ventimigha, about five miles, on the banks of
Mentone, and near Monaco, to ' the PagUon ; and then ascends the
Nice. The Hotels at Albenga and mountain of Scarena to the Village
Oneglia, that at S. Remo^.and the of that name, a drive of less than
H^tel de Turin at Ventimiglia, three hours. It then ascends ano-
afford the best accommodation on ther mountain composed of red,
this Route *. grey, and white marble ; and on
Nice is seated in a small plain, arriving at. the summit, after a
bounded on the west by the Var, drive of about two hours and a
anciently called the Vartia, which half, the traveller is presented with
divides it from Provence; on the a view of Sospello, situated in the
south by the Mediterranean, which opposite valley, and apparently not
washes its walls ; and on the north hcof a mile distant : yet so lofty is
by that chain of Alps called Mart- the mountain, and so numerous are
tvnuB, which seems designed by na- the windings of the road, that tra-
ture to protect Italy from the inva- vellers have nine miles to iro, ere
sionsofher Gallic neighbours. The they reach Sospello. This Village,
Citadel of Mont-Albano overhangs built on the banks of the Paglion,
the Town ; and the Paglion, a tor- and surrounded with Alps, con-
rent which descends from tiie adja- tains two tolerable Inns. Hence
cent mountains, separates it from the road climbs the lofty mountain
what is called the English Quarter, of Sospello, winding through im-
and runs into the sea on the west. mense rocks of marble, some of
The situation of Nice is cheer- which were blown up, in order to
ful, the walks and rides are pretty, make way for carriages. Near
the lodging-houses numerous, and Sospello stands an ancient Roman
tolerably convenient ; the eatables Castle ; but, what seems extraor-
good and plentiful, and the wine dinary, the old Roman road over
and oil excellent; but the near these Maritime Alps is nowhere
neighbourhood of the Alps, and discoverable. After ascending for
the prevalence of that searching three hours, the traveller reaches
wind called Vent de bise, render the summit of the mountain, and
the air frecjuently cold, and even then descends in less than one hour
frosty, during winter and spring; to LaChiandola; a romantic Vil-
while in summer the heat is ex- lage, seated at the brink of a brawl-
cessive '. ing torrent, and adorned by Cas-
The road over the Maritime Alps cades gushing from jagged rocks of
from Nice to Turin is superb and a stupendous height. Travellers
wonderful; though not safe for usually sleep at La Chiandola,
carriages during the season of where the Inn is tolerably good,
(x) Persons wlio fto in a Felucca from Ge- riage, costs about forty francs,
noa to Nice, reach Oneglia the first night, (j/) The principal Inns at Nice are L'H6-
and arrive at the end of their voyage on the tet 'des EtrangerSy and VHdtel de Tork ; thia
second, provided the weather prove favour- former is excellent.
able; paying for a ten-oared Felucca, large («) This road, as constrooted by Victor- Ama-
enongh to contain an English travelling car- deus, was always passable for carnages at
riage, about five louis-d'ors. The transport certain seasons of the year; and not only
of a ligbt, open, fonr>wbeel«d, empty car- pwsablet but exceUent. .
lU MARITIME ALM—TtJftlN. [Oh: f.
Ind fieit morftlng set out for Tehda. ftttthef ." It i^ prudfeftt t§ pasS the
To d^Sdribe the sfcefieit between Col-di-Tehda bfefore mid-dajr ; be-
thisTown and La Chiatidbla would fcau^fej at that tiiufe, thei-e lisusaiy
be iiflpossible^imagination could Hses a strong wind Very inconve-
not picture it.— The accent is gra- nientto Travellers* This passagCj
dual, by the Side of the torrenti since it was improved by the Fretidh,
which, from rushing impetuously has seldom decupled abdve five
bver enormous masses of stone, hours* persdu^i therefore, wh6
forms itself ihto an endless variety' Wave Tetida at eight in the hiom-
ef Cascades, While the Stupendous ing, may eipect to rekch the feiim*^
rocks through which the rostd is mit of the a^cetit by eleven. The
^erced, from their immense height, first part df this asdent presents
grotesque shapes, ahd verdant picturesque prospects embellished
fclothittg^, added to the beautiful with bold Cascades ; the latter
Water*falls with which they are part is usually etiveloi>ed with
%mbeUished, exhibit one of the clouds ; and colder than any other
most awfully magnificent Grottoes passage df thfe Alps, practicable fdi*
that the inasterly hand of Nature carriages. The summit of the Col*
^ver made. Through this Grotto di-Tehda is a barren rdck, whence
the road passes for several miles ; may be dfesdried Moht-Visoj with
the pf-dspect oil every side being uther Alps still morfe lofty ; and the
bdiinded by mountaihs whdse sum- town of Limone seated iti a Val©,
inits the eye catiriot reach ; though through which rushes k torrefat
iSdmetihies the peak of an Alp pre- formed by the sndw from the Col.
jSentS; itself; atid resemblfes a bril- Limoiie, contains a tolerable Inn.
liaht obehsk of shdw resting on the Hence the rdad rims parallel with
Ijlouds. Suddenly, however, thiii those streams which fertilise thii
Sfeenery is Varied by the appearance wild part of Piedmotitj till it enters
df a large fortified Castle suspend- the luxuriant t)laiii in which fetandS
fed i!i the aii-, (fdir so it really seems Coni ; a well situctted Towti, With
to be, owing td the dense fogs fortifications once deemed impreg-
li^hich eiiveldp the mountain it nable. Here, at the Post-house,
Stands updtt ;) and* Sdon aftferj k 4'ravellers usually sleep ; proceed-
tUrfa in the rdad exhibits the Towft ihg ttext day td BiaVigllltno ; through
df Saorgioi' built in the shape df a flatj plentiful-, and highly culti*
hh amphitheatre, and apparently vated country, whifeh forms a strik*-
|)oi&ed bet^eeh earth and heaven ; ing eontitist. to the sublime wild-
Ihe mouhtain on Which it is seated iiess of the Alps. SavigUarid is a
being Veiled with cloud*. Magni- large ToWn, containing a tolerable
ficfeht chedtnut-WdodSi eonvents. Hotel; and thende the rdad passes
hermitages, remaitts of castles, and thh)Ugh Cdrignario to Turin;
old Roman causey Si preseftt them- This City, seated in k spacidus
tselves on either side of the rdiad, plain loaded with mulberries, vines,
till it reaches Tenda ; whidh is Si- and corn, arid Watered by the rivers
tuated under an immense Alp of Po and Dora, (the former of which
the same name, computed to be Wias anciently called Bodihco, cfr
eight thousatid feet in height, and bottomless,) is approached by foUt
over the summit of which Victor- fine roads shaded with forest-trees ;
Amadeus carried the road. Tenda while the surrounding hills are
is a sombre-looking Town, resem- covered with handsome edifices ;
bling what Poetry would pictiure as pre-eminent among which towers
the world's end ; for the cloud- the magnificent Church of La Su-
capped mountain behind it seems perga.
to say, Thou shalt proceed no Tuxin was denominated ^%e»«lfa
CLV4 Wftm. M
IMr^iidmm, ^ Augtistttii^ wheh a ^VLptrb lligh-lltaf ftfid Bikldte^
h6 ^fcd% it ihtb ^ RomekA colonV * ahino«
befoi-e which period it bbi« th« ^H^ G^ftl'^^rct dl S: CAft»fMd oe»^
name bf TauHnunit trofo. being the tains a Statue of S. Teresa, deemed
Capita bf the Taurim, a natibn thecA^-«f<!PMt)**«df Le Grds-.
of Cisalpine G^ul. Th^ modem The Teatro tit CdHgnahb (d
ii^alldr or irslinpjBffts, lii« about fbitf handsome; knd the Grun Te^H
miles Iround^ end eontam n§ar is one of the lal^st lUid liiOil
e^htf -eight thousand penons: th^ beautiful Buildings of its kind e«*
Gitfltdel^ a particularly line fortresss istihg.
t?hich the French almost destroyed; I%e UHivH*iit^ contains a fine
is now rebuilding* The sttieetSi Statue of Cupid, supposed to be
which «tfe widCi straight, and cleaUj Cri*ecian scUlptiire — ^a vefy valui^le
inters^t each other at right angles j ancient Mosaic Parement — ^the ee*
60 that dn one particular spot^ ill lebrated Isiac Tabl^, found at Mati-
the middle of the Towii, they may, tua, and one of the most precibUlt
Itecording to te^fort, be tetU seen at monuments e)ctant of Egyptian an^
Jance, ls*uingj like raysj fl^m . h tiquity I— together with Baerifieiid
common centre-." The Strada del Vases — Lamps — Medals^ ^.
1^0, ttie Stradl3i-Nuova, and the The Public Garden, and the
StrfeulA del Dora-grande, are Very Rslmparts, are delightiUl PtDme-
handsome : so are the Piazza del nades ; and were it not f^ a Want
Oastello> and the PiaizH di S. of correctness and simplicity in the
Carlo ; eaibh being embellished with structm^ iLhd decorations of the
Porticos t and the Bridge thrown principal edifices, Turin Would bfe
by the French, over, the Po, is one one of the most beautiful Town*
of the most beautiful pieces of iti Europe.
architecture bf its kind in Europe. Here are se^ral Hotels • * ^ood
• Th^ Rofol Pniftee contains an shop^, (where the manufi^turefr
Equestrian StAtue of Aniadeus I; of the feountty> tiamely, velvet*,
magnificent suites of apartments ; Isilks^ silk stobking^, tapestiy, pbiv
and a valukble coQebtion of Pic- celain, chllhibi8.lee.ther gloves^ ^.
tures ; among Which iff A PoHtait are sold \) a good market fok* eat*-
T^f Charles I, bit Eh^ftnd — ^thte ables, knd good Wine : but the fb^
GWldren of Ch^le& I, with a Dbg Which ihvariably pi^vail, dibinfe
— and a Prince of the House of autumn and Wihter, make the feli-
Gari^nanb on Horseback — all by mate, at those seasons, unWhole-
Vandyck — Hother; represented as some ; and thfe foul abd hoxiolis
k bliiid ffj^mwinisa^orei by Murillo watei', tob fi^u6ntly fburid in thte
— 4he Prodigal Sbti, by Guercino-t- Wells and reservoirs of thiS Gi^,
and dattlei%PAul Potter. bfteii prbVes eveh h greatei- evil
. This CathedriM merits notice, bU tH'aH the fogs : thei^ is; hbweVet-,
afccouht bf one of its Chat)els, before the Po-Gate, heat th^ Gtt-
«alled La GAppelia del 8. Sudarib, puchin-coriVent, a Well bf eicel-
biliit aftef thte designs of Gu&rinij lent watet \
TM Vhi€^ di fif. Filippo NeH The objfects best worth nbtide
•IS A fine Edifice in pbint bf axtihi- in the Eftvirons of Turin ai^ :
teetut-bi buHt after the designs bf FcUentiHo, Whete there is a public
•'Atfvara, TbfiheSe; and contaitis GaJrd'ei\— £te Fillet dtlla Regtm,
{ik) L'Albenao detr tlhivetso-^L^Ewopa— tk'e AQstriftn amb)Mfl4der, jf tte)^ dwin goffig
' lU Angela — ^and £« Pension Sutstet a small beyoiiS the Sardinian territories. Tor the
but comfortable Inn. . latter signature four francs a«d *, half. P«'
' (5) Trkvellfer^, befow tii^y quit Turiii. are pasS«)rl, are (UilMwdea, iind lot tbe fottofix
obliged to have their passpottiS examined aad fotUrura^Cs. ....
signed at the FoUce Office ; ftad Uli«wis« by
120 ASTI— ALESSANDRIA. [Ch, V.
1/vhich .commands a fine view— and, after having passed the Vil-
Camaldoli, the road to which is lage of Annone, displays a parti-
Yery romantic — La Superga, (five cularly fine view of the Po ; pro-
noiies distant fi*om the City,) a ceeding, by Felizzano and Solera,
magnificent Church, where rest to Alessandria ; a handsome For-
the relics of the Sardinian King^ ; tress, seated in the midst of an
and La Veneria, a Royal Vula, extensive plain, and watered by
containing good Paintings, and a theTanaro. Alessandria is celebra-
fine Oran^erie. ted for the sieges it has sustained.
The rums of the ancient Town for the strength of its Citadel, per-
of Industria are not far distant haps the finest in Europe, and
firom Turin. for a magnificent Bridge covered
In order to return to Genoa by from end to end, and equally re-
the Route through Val di Scrivia, markable for • its length, height.
Travellers, on leaving Turin, pass and solidity. The Sluices of the
over the ma^ificent new Bridge Tanaro merit notice ; the Piazza
ahready mentioned, and proceed on d* Armi is spacious ; and the Royal
a eood and pleasant road, embel- Palace, the Governor's House, the
lished with fine views of the Po Churches of S. Alessandro, and
and the Alps, to Asti ; a large S. Lorenzo, the new Theatre, and
Town, seated amidst vineyards the Ramparts, are usually visited
which produce the best wine in by Travellers. This Town (which
Piedmont. contains about eighteen thousand
Asti, supposed to contain above inhabitants and two Hotels ^) was
ten thousand inhabitants, is en- anciently called Alexandria Sta-
circled with extensive walls in a telliorum; but has, in modern
ruinous condition: and. of the davs, acquired the ludicrous ap-
hundred Towers, for which it once pellation of Alessandria della Pag*
wasflEunous, scarce thirty remain ; 7ia; partly owing to a fiible, im-
and even these seem nodding to porting that the Emperors of Ger-
their fall. The people here are many were in former times crowned
poor, because inclined to idleness ; here, with a straw diadem ; and
and the Town, generally speaking, partly because the inhabitants,
has a sombre aspect, that quarter being destitute of wood, are sup-
excepted where the nobility reside, posed to bake their white bread
and where the buildings are hand- with straw.
some. Asti boasts the honour of On quitting Alessandria, the road
containing the Paternal Mansion crosses the Tanaro, and imme-
of the Conte Vittorio Alfieri, the diately re-enters the above-named
greatest, and almost the only dis- plain ; called, on this side, that
tinguished tragic Poet modem of Marengo ; and famous for the
ItiJy ever produced. The Duomo, decisive victory gained here, by
here, has been lately erected, and Napoleon, over the Austrians. Np
merits notice ; as do the Churches ground can be better calculated for
of S. Secondo, and the Madonna the strife of armies than this plain;
aella Consolata, and likewise that which is not only extensive but
o{ S, Bartolommeo dei Benedettini, flat; and equally devoid of trees
on the outside of the walls . and fences. A quarter of a league
Beyond Asti the road crosses distant from Alessandria flows the
the Stironne, traverses a beautiful Bormida, a large and rapid tor-
Vale richly clothed with grain ; rent ; and half a league further is
(c) Asti contains two tolerable Inns, name- (^d) The Orajtde Alhergo ^Italia ; and the
ly, tl Leone d'orOt and the Orande Alhergo ; Lvcanda Reale,
former best.
Ch. v.] NOVI— LEGHORN. 121
the hamkt of Marenso. One pub- and, provided the wind be tolerably
lie-house on this plain bears the fair, reaches Leghorn Harbour in
name of ** Torre di Marengo," two days. The Island of Gorgona,
and another that of " Albergo di and the Rock called Meloria, are
lunga fama; but the column, both situated on the right of the
surmounted by an eagle« and entrance into this fine Harbour;
placed on the spot where Desaix one part of which, that farthest
fell, is now to be seen no more. from the shore, is defended against
Beyond Marengo the road is " the violence of the sea by a Pier ;
divided in two branches : one, though large vessels anchor in the
leading through Tortona to Par- Roads, about two miles firom the
ma ; and, the other, through Novi Pier-head. The Li^t-house is
to Genoa. The latter branch pas- built upon an isolated Rock, in the
ses, on the way to Novi, the open sea.
Domenican Abbadia del Bosco, The Town of Leghorn, (in Ita-
enriched with a few good paintings, lian, Livomo,) the nurse-child of
and some sculpture ; the latter oy the House of Medicis, called by
Michael Ahgelo. the ancients Libumus Portas, and
Novi, placed among vineyards formerly subject to Genoa, was the
a,t the base of the Apennine, con- first free port established in Ihe
tains six thousand inhabitants, se- Mediterranean: and this political
veral magnificent houses, which establishment, the work of Cosimo
belong to opulent Genovesi, who I, who exchanged the episcopal
spend the autumn here ; and two city of Sarzano for the then unim-
good Inns'* : it is, therefore, the portant village of Leghorn, soon
best sleeping-place between Turin rendered the latter a place of great
and Genoa, both on account of consequence ; and by cutting seve-
the last-named circumstance, and ral canals, and encouraging culti-
likewise from being situated about vation, he, in some measure, de-
midway. One ToYfer of the old stroyed the noxious vapours which
Castle of Novi alone remains, natiu'ally proceeded from a loose
standing on an eminence, and re- and marshy soil. Leghorn, to per-
markable for its height. sons unskilled in the art of war.
After passing through the vine- seems strongly fortified ; though
yards, orchards, and chestnut- various circumstances would pre-
groves near Novi, the new Road, vent it from bein^ tenable long,
mstead of penetrating into the whether attacked by land or sea.
heart of the Apennine, and crossing This City is two miles in circum-
the summit of the Bocchetta, is ference, and contains sixty thou-
carried throuj^h Arquata, Ronco, sand inhabitants ; twenty thousand
and Pontedecimo, to Genoa *! of whom are said to be Jews. Its
Persons desirous of returning Ramparts are handsome ; and the
he;nce to Tuscany by water, in or- High -street, from its breadth and
der to visit the Port of Leghorn, straightness, from the richness of
must furnish themselves, at Genoa, its shops, and, still more, from the
with a Bill of Health ; which, on motley crowd of all nations wiUi.
quitting that City by sea, is indis- which it is constantly filled, pre-
pensable. A Felucca, of a proper sents a picture equally singular
• size to make this voyage, is usually and pleasmg. The great square is
hired for about twelve sequins, spacious ; and the Duomo is a
Sr) L* Albergo Reale in Via-Ohirardenghi, (/) Between Torin and Genoa a carriage
ia Posta, beyond the town, on the way with two inside places* and foar wheela, goes
to Genoa. The HOtel ^Europe t» very with two horses only, according to the
comfortable. Tariff.
hoble edifice, desired hf VAsari : " HM'tds " ^aS Ihscrtbed bh \hi
this Churtih--4he7€m' Sptiagr>giie, Pisa-g;&tte: \Mi itlsfcriptibh, hoW-
(one bf the finest in iEurope)— ^f A^ evfer, no longer exists : but nevei^-
Vhutth 6/ the united (rteekf — the theless, it is impossible to enter
Mdnhy or Bank — Micdl€9 8hop-^ Lucca Without feeling high respect
the Coral Mamtf'actur& — the sireai fof a Town which, even during the
Printing- Hoicse — the Opera-house plenitude of Roman despotism,
— the four Slates in oronze, by maintained its owtl laws, and
Pietro Tacca, chairied to the pe*- some deglree of liberty ; and which,
flestal of the Stiettue of Ferdinando ^Inee that peribd till very recently,
1, which stands iu the Dock-yard, alvvays continued free. The tef-
Ifcnd was done by Giovanni del ritory contains about foUt* hum
Opera — the Lazzaretti — the Cam- dred square miles, and about ohe
po-Santo — the English Burial- hundred and twenty thousand per-
m-oundr^the new Aqueduct, tttciod. sons. Csesar wintered at LUcca
to convey wholesome water to the after his third campai^ in (Graul :
tJity from the mountains of Golog- and, according to Appian of Alex-
ttole (twelve miles distant) — and andria, all the magistrates of Rome
the Church of the Madonna di came to visit him ; insomuch that
Montenero, are the objects best two hundred Roman Senators Ivere
Worth notice in Leghorn and its seen before his door at the same
Environs. Here are several Inns * : moment : which circumstance
and the English Factory have a proves Lucca to have been, at
Pfotestant Chapel. From Leg^ that period, a large City. Thfe
horn there is an excellent road, Gate on which the word ** Libert-
through part of the forest of Amo, tas" was inscribed, is now re-
to Pisa, a distance of fourteen placed by a simple and elegant
Tuscan miles ; though pei'sons Doric Archway • the Streets are
who prefer water-carriage mav go, broad, Well paved, atld clean, but
by the Canal, from the one City to irregular ; the Piaxza-Reale, in
tiie otiier. From Pisa to Florence which the Royal Palace stands, is
the most interesting road is that spacious, and adorned With H
which lies through LuCca and modem Statue of Carrara marble ;
Pistoja. the P&iace is large and handsome :
Lucca, Called L'TndUstHosa, and and its Furniture, which even in
beautifully situated, about twelve t*d,ris i^ould be celled supert),
Tuscan miles from Pisa, in a luxu- was all made at Lucca. The
riant valley, encircled by the Apen- Ceilih^s> atid Several of the Walls
liine, and watered by tide Serchib, of the Apartments, are painted iti
is defended by eleveti bastions of fi^co by Luchese artists t but fex^-
brick, and ramparts, which, from cept one head by Correggid, Cof*
being planted with forest* t^ees, helia, mother of the Gracchi, by.
give this little City the appearance Camuccini, and Coriolanus, Ve^
•of a fortified wood with a watch- turtA, and Volumnia, by LaAdi,
tower in its centre ; the edifice there are no Interesting easel-pi^
which resembles the latter beinfe tures. Among the ornaments Hf
the cathedral, l^e Ramparts aii this Royal Mahsion is kn immense
three miles in circumference ; and and splendid Vase of Sevres Por-
fbtm a delightful promenade, either celain, which w&s presented hy
on foot or m a carriage. Previous Napbleott to the Sovereigft • 4^f
to the French revolution the word Lucca. *
(^) The Lbcanda di S. Marcot kept \>f Thomson, eOad ft good inn— ^ff drove ^ora^'-^
Ch. VJ LUCCA^MArlIA, #c. 123
' the Cmmrtds ewetiedin lOS^a, Upper rahki df people ai^e opu-
thbUgh uiiproinising withoiit, is & tent, leArtiedj and well-lticlined •
fine TUscan^Gothlb biiildih^ with- the mechatti<*s (Who Wei* ihstructed
4tt ; and eohtaitls, on the right Of by the RinceBs felise) display
thegreatdoof, theTomb of Adal^ great taste and expertness in
b^i suJrhamed •* The Rich," who making household furniture ; the
lived iti the beginning of the tenth lower ranks of people possess more
ceftttiiy; and was, according tb integrity of character, with a
Muratdri) the Progenitor of the felronger sense of religion, than is
Princess of E&te, Hhd the Housfe eommon* either in Roman Catholic
xi Brunswick Hanof er^ now So- or Protestant countries ; and the
Teigns of Great Britain. The fe- peasants are the most industrious
inous Countess Matilda wais ft and skilful husbandmen of south'*
descendant from the dbove-named em Italy.
Adalbert ; and this Princess, the Lucca contains a Seminary,
daughter, of a Duke of Lucca) founded by the Princess Elise, for
Wh» died in 1062, reigned over the education ot an hundrwl
Tufecany, Lombdrdy, and Liguria, daughters of noblemen, besides
hiaintaining desperate wars, for chil^en of humble birth; and
thirty successive years, against the this Princess had hkewise taken
Schismatics and Anti-Popes ; tillj measures to establish an Institute,
at lengthi she drove the Emperor, for the encouragement of arts and
Henry IV, but of Italy, dnd re* sciences, when sne was called upon
istofed to the Ohureh its ancient to relinquish her throne,
possessions. But to return to the The HStel koynl de la Croix d^
Cathedral r this fediiice is enriched Malthe is the best inn at Lucca.
Witli Paintings, by Coli and San* Travellers who enter this City
<*asciani, Lucchesi ; a Pieture, by with post-horses are compelled to
Zuccari ; another* by Tintoretto ; quit it in the same manner.
Statues of thfe four Evangelists, The surrounding country is rich
by Foncelli ; a celebrated Cru- in villas ; and that called Marlid,
feifix, called the F&fn Santo; fine on the Way to the Baths of Lucca.
Painted Glass Windows, and h partibularly merits notice : as it
bekutifUl inlaid marble t^avementj was built by the Princess Elise, is
The Chieea di S*. Maria deit fhrnished with peculiar elegance,
Utnilth contains a good Picture, and stands in a beautiftil garden^.
hf Titian. The Chiesa di S. F6n- The road from Lucca to this Villa,
ziano is ornamented with two a distance of between four and
Paintings hy Piefro LombaTdo. ^vfe miles, is excellent ; and hence
'the Patazio PuMic6, built by to the Bagni-caldi, (about eight
Ammannato and Filippo Giuvdra> miles,) equally good : it winds al^
contains Pdntings by Lucca (Ji- most constantly by the side of the
ordano, Albert Diirer, Guertelno, Serchio J and is cut through rocks
&c. Th^ Thmtte is small, but tlothed with olives and chestnuts,
pfl^tty; and remains of fA«? undent and adorned with convents, villas.
Amphitheatre are disdnvetable on and cottages. Nothing can be
Hie spot callM PHgi6ni veechie, more romantic than tnis drive^
The police of Lucca has long and, on the way, are three extra-
beeii famed for its excellence. Th« ordinary Bridges : the first con^
Ch) The Empress Maria-Louisa visited this and tlien, with great rrinetanee, went .Jkway.
ViflA. ndt many years since ; slept here^ and Her S«n's Bast is at Marlia « ••d, if Uto
ordered every thing to be in readiness for her him» he mnst hav« a counteftatioe repiet»
tie^rtnre at four e'deck the next nerning : with sense and animatiwt, and oearing r
she, however, lingeited in the MnrUa-gallery, «tnmg reMmhlaace to h»s rattoer.
(apparently loet m ti&ovght,) tiU lea o*^ock<
m BAGNI DI LUCCA. . [Ch, V.
sisting of two immense arches, not where, daring the season, there
in a straight line with each other, is a ball every Sunday night,
but formmg, in the centre, a con- These Baths, therefore, to persons
siderable angle : neither do these very fond of society, must be an
arches support a level road ; on eligible summer situation. At the
the contrary you ascend one arch Bagni della Villa there are several
and descend it again: you then gowi lodging-houses; some of
come to an angle of flat ground ; which accommodate two or three
after which you ascend the other fajnilies, others only one : and
arch, and descend that, till yoM here the mother of the Princess
reach a smaller arch, which brings Elise used to reside *. At tKe
you to the opposite shore of the Ponte- Seraglio, near the Bagni-
Serchio. The height of this Bridge, caldi, there are lodging-houses;
judging from the eye, seems but these, generally speaking, are
nearly equal to that of Augustus inhabited by persons of the second
at Nami. The second Bridge is rank.
similar to the first ; but the third. The usual Promenade here is
-Qvrhich consists of only one large between the Bagni della Villa and
arch, is by far the loftiest; and, the Ponte- Seraglio, on a dusty
according to oral tradition, was road ; while a delightful drive,
the work of the Devil : who seems made by the Government, under
to have been, in the opinion of the the wood on the opposite side of
Italians, a great architect ; for the river, is. neglected,
every extraordinary building is The Season commences with
attributed to him. Other accounts, July, and ends with August;
however, say, these Bridges were though June and September are
erected by the Countess Matilda, monUis better calculated for the
soon after the year 1000. examination of this beautiful spot.
The Bagfii'CalcU di Lttcca are which Ls one of the coolest sum-
situated on the side of a romantic mer abodes of southern Italy,
and picturesque mountain, thickly Provisions here are not exor-
elothed with chestnut - woods ; bitant in price, even during the
where, during summer, the walks season : but good table-wine and
are delightful. The Bagni della good butchers' meat, except veal,
Villa are in the plain, near the are difficult to procure ; and fruit,
banks of the Lima ; and the Prin- except Alpine strawberries, cher-
cess Elise, by making a fine road jies, and wild raspberries, is neither
to these Baths, and inducing her venr fine nor very plentiful ^.
own family to frequent them, con- Lovers of botany should visit,
verted a secluded village into a during the month of June, the
gay public place. At the Bagni- Prato Fiorito, near these Baths ;
caldi there is one lodging-house which is, at the above-named
which accommodates from twelve time, enamelled with a larger
to fourteen families ; another number and a greater variety of
which accommodates three fami- flowers than fall to the share, per-
lies ; several small lodgings ; a haps, of any other spot existing \
coffee - house, and a cassino ; The best way of seeing this garcfen
(0 The best apartment in the hoase of the (ft) Lowe, dealer in wines, spirits, teas,
Siipsora I^na, at the Bagni della ViUa, was groceries, Knrlish haberdashery, &c. has a
let in 1817 for thirty sequins a month : the shop here, during summer,
first flo<Jr in the house of Sig. G. B. del Chi- (/) Tradition reports that, on this emi-
' appa for twenty-eight seouins a month; and nence, there once stood a temple dedicated to
the second floor for eighteen or twenty se- .Ssculapius ; whose priests are supposed to
Suins. Casa-Ambrogio, Casa-Nobile, Casa- have cultivated round the edifice a large
lonvisi, and Casa-Rossi, are good lodging- number of flowers, which chance has perpe-
houses ; the last is that in which the Mother tuatad to the present day.
of the late Sovereign formerly lived.
Ch.V.] BAiGNI M LTJCCA. 125
of Flora is to set out at an early people : the little land they possess
hour, going by Coltrone, and re- is cultivated with the utmost care,
turning by Monte -Villa, near and in the neatest manner; but does
which several of the chestnut- not yield sufficient food for the
trees are of so extraordinary a numerous inhabitants of this part
size, that they would be fit sub- of the Duchy of Lucca j who are,
jects for landscape-painters to stu- therefore compelled, like many
dy. The modes of conveyance to other natives .of the Apennine, to
the Prato Fiorito are various: live chiefly on bread made of chest-
ponies and donkeys may be easily nuts; and when these fail, the
procured; but persons in general consequence is dreadful: as was
prefer being carried by Portantini, exemplified lately, when hundreds
of whom* tiiere is a considerable perished from want ; while those
number at the Baths : three men who survived had no sustenance
are requisite for each chair ; and but beans boiled with grass, and
their usual pay is five pauls a herbs collected on the mountains :
man, with bread, common wine, and yet there was no rioting, no
and cheese of the country for din- murmuring, ho complaint — the fa-
ner, wherever the party like to mishing peasants prayed to Heaven
stop ; which is generally at the for relief, and awaited with resig-
foot of the Prato Fiorito, there nation the approach of better day?,
being, in this place, a spring of The vices and crimes which dis-
good water. grace more opulent countries are
Another pleasant excursion may httle known amongst these pea-
be made in the same manner, from sants, whose probity and piety are
the Bagni della Villa to Ponte Ne- equally exemplary ".
ro : the best way of going is to The mode of cultivating this part
cross the Lima on the Ponte of the Apennine is beautiful : at
Nuovo, keeping on the far side of the commencement of each ascent
the river the whole way ; and then vines are dressed on terraces cut in
returning by Palleggio ; as that the side of the hill; wheat being
village, together with the hamlets sown between every two irows of
of Coccigha and Cosoli di Val di vines :• above these there fVequently
Lima, form a beautiful and most is an olive-garden ; and! on the
romantic prospect. The party more elevated parts of the hill are
should dine near this spot; and chestnuts.
then go back to the Baths by the Mountains are sold here, not by
Palleggio side of the river, as far measurement, but from a calcula.-
as the wooden bridge of La Fab- tion respecting the number of sacks
brica, where they should cross of chestnuts uiey usually produce,
to the other side. A Guide well The landlord receives two-thirdsr
acc^uainted with the country is re- of the chestnuts which are col-
quisite for this excursion, and may lected, and half of the other crops^
be procured at lie Baths. The richer grounds in the plain
Loiano, likewise, from its singu- produce hemp, from which mudi
lar^situation, is worth> visiting. coarse cloth, and some of a finer
The peasantry of these moun- sort, is manufactured ; and every
tains are an honest and industrious peasant has a stock of silk- worms °.
(m) The Rector of the parish ia which the a silk, for their own wear, from the bags of
Bagni di Lucca are situated, told some Kng- those silk-worms which are allowed to work
lish TraveUers, that, after a residence of their way out, in order to produce eggs for the
twenty years among his parishioners, who ensuiing ]^ear. The costume of the inferior
amounted to above eight hundred persons, he peasants is neat ; and the wives and daughtera
had never heard of the commission of one of the farmers are, on festival davs, hand-
theft, neither had he heard of more than three ' aomely dressed when they go to cburpn, or
children bom out of wedlock. elsewhere ; but this finery is laid by, the mo-
(») The female peasants often manufacture roent they return home.
Wheat U DsuaQ^r out about Mid- larly Mnde, straight, andWeU-paYed
summev» and immediately oarried streets ; palaoes* yfHc\x announee
off the ^elds ; which are, on the magnifieence ; and a venerable
same day, sown with Indian com } Tusean-^Gothic Cathedral ; hut the
and this comes up in a vf^V» and City looks tOQ large ibr its inhabit
h iit to be cut in October, In tants (said to be onJy ten thousand),
many places rows of Indian com, and therefore has a gloomy ap*
apd IVench beans, called scarlet pearance. It was famous among
runners, are planted alternately; the Anpient^ for the defeat of
the former serving as a support to Catiline ; ^d, in modem times,
the latter. the factions of the Guelphs an4
Between the Baths of Lucca and Qhibelline^ have rendered it no
the City are several villas, with less remarkable. The situation of
gardens possessing shady walks; Pistoja ig cool; the air healthy;
a comfort seldom found m south-* the country ^uithil ; and the pro*
em Italy : and the owners of these visions are cheap and excellent,
habitations are usually glad to let Good organs^ cannon, and iiiuae
them to respectable tenants, &01Q kets, are made at Pistoja, Tho
May till the end of September. best inn ip jl Sole^
Having traversed the beautiful From Pistqja the road proceeds
and highly-cvdtivated plain of Luc- to Prato and Florence; leaving,
pa, adorned with forest-trees, from on the rights the Royal YUla of
which hang festoons of yines in Poggio-a-Cajano, whose founda?
every direction, the road passes tions were laid by Leo X : and this
through Pescia, a small episcopal Villa merits notice, Irom its Una
City at the base of the Apennine, situation, and bepause it is embeU
and. peculiarly situated amidst lished with the works of Andrea
mountains cultivated tp their sum- del Sarto.
mits, and covered with villages. The country between Pist^a
churches, and castles ; the Epii^- and Florence may, witli truth, be
copal Palace here looks handsome ; called the richest and best eultir
and near this Town are the Baths vated garden in Tuscany ; and tha
of Monte- Catini. lofty hedges of vines climbing up
The road, to the end of the Luc- forest trees, and forming them-
ehese territories, is excellent ; and selves into magnificent festoons 09
thence to Pistoja paved, and good, each side of the road, present tha
The country between Pescia and appearance of an immensely ex?
Pistoja is bold and romantic ; and tensive gsdlery, decorated for a
the latter City finely placed on the ball.
side of the Apennine, near the The road 6*00^ Pistoja to Flo-*
hver Ombrone, contains particu- renee i@ good.
m
eg^^TER yi.
SIEN4. AND ROMH.
^mVfirvm Wht99» t» Mm^ tlnougli aieDa^J)ea««i»(|«i of Omi Ust>n»ine4 city Mditi
f Svii9n%-rIUdi«»l8i»i— VitefW-T-Tewliff C, Y, Mj|rinipius-T,PwtcMoUe^N|k»oivi*|k S«p^lr
chra-^JnI^nk Tar^Ot^^j^c^ro of tha PomitU— Portu ^9l Popglf^^Rome— Mai' »Tifrw
Qli^iate — Wat^r convey^ daily ta the ancient city — Si^e aw4 popuUtiQ^a of ^ttoT-Siz« of
the qiodem 9ity:— Society — ExcaYatiou.9— Foro-Roipano — Colosseo — ^^tco di Costantino-r
Chies?^ dli S. Teodoro-T-ArcQ di Settimlo Severe in Velabro — Chiesa di 9. Qeorgio in
Velabro — ^Arco di Giano Quadrifronte — Lake of Jaturna — Cloaca Maxima-^Ghiesa di 9,
Ifaria in Coamedin— Tempio di Vesta— Tempio di Fortnna Virilis— Pala»«o de' Oesari-^
CiMti^ Maximna-^Cfatesa di S. Gvegorio sul Monte-Celio—Tnraie di Tito<^S«tte Sal»^
Cia«sa di a, Mairtino in l^ontft^-di S. Plctro in Vineoli-Tdi 9. MarU dell« VavMll**^
S. §t«|»90 II«t9lidQ~OMi8k of thft Piaxsa del PQp«le— 0tfttnw an^ OUUvk •f Ifot^-
f;^yi|\l(H:-Ckiesa di «. Bei^iisdc^i S. Mi^rift deg^U An^^eU— The Pope'9 OitCeUai^
PiardinQ 4^ Sallusto— rQbel^k of S. Ma,^a Ma^giore— Colmpn— Ba9iUca— Obelisl^ of 9.
Giovanni in Latera^no — 3attii^t.erio di Coetantino^^Pa^lica di S. QioYan^i in I<atenMio—
Scala Santa — Triclinium — Amphitheatre Castrense — Basilica di S. Croce in Gerus^lemm^
—Temple called that of Venus and Cupid— Claudian Aqueduct— Chi^a di S. Biblana-^
Tempio di Minerva -Medica — Arco di Gallieno — Remains of Aqueducts— Chiesa di S.
Prassede-^Campidoglio— Tarpeiaa Rock— Favissae-^hiesa di 8. Ifaria d'Araoeli— di 8.
3l^ietro in Oarcere— ralaszo del Beaatore— Palazzo de' Oanaerratori-^Museo-Capitolino^iv
^txaTpio di Pallf4e-rTei«iiiQ e Foro di Kerva^J^r^t « C^loani^ Trv^ana— M^nsoleo di (X
^oblijc^tts S^bulos-!— Dogant^ Poii||tifief^ — Obelisk of Monte<Ci^>r^o— Coloanfi Ant^qina-rr
^i^\isQleo d'AR£psto — Mausi^l^-Adriano — Tempio del Sole — Baths of Con^taatine— Obelisk
of S. Ms^ria sopra Minerva—Chi^st^ di 8; Maria aopra Minerva — C^ss^ni^tense Library-^
Pantheon — Bagni d'Agrippa — Teatro di Pompeo — Piazzfi-Navona — Chiesa diS. Agnese —
Teatro di Marcello — Prison of the Decemviri — Portico d' Octavia — Tempio d' Esculapio—
Chiesa di S. Cecilia in Trastevere — Basilica di S. Maria in Trastevere — Fountain — Chiese
di 8. Prisca — di 8. Sabina— di S. Alessio — ^Monte-Testaeeio— Sepolcro di Cajo Cestio*^
Tenna di Caracalla-;— Sepolcco de* Scipionir-Porta 8. debasti^?»o— Basilica di 8. Sebaa-
tiano ^lle Catacoi^be — Ceiskio di Roxnolo — Sepolpvo di CecUia Metella— Public Ustria*
— Scen^ of combat Vtweea the Horatii and Coriatii— Basilica di S. Paolo — Chiesa di 8.
Paolo alle tre Fon^ne^£xcavatk>ns — Chiesa di S. Urbano alia CafEArella-^Fontana dellf
Dea Egeria— Tempio di Redicolo — Porta-Pia : Chiesa di S. A|fnese — Chiesa di S. Cos-
tanza — Hippodrome — Villa Faonte — Ponte Lamentano — Tomb of Meneaius Agrippa —
Mons Sacer — Porta di S. Lorenzo; Basilica di S. Lorenzo — Porta Maggiore; ancient
Temples at the Tor de* Schiavi — Porta S. Giovanni — ^Aqueducts— Temple of Fortun»
llvlcebris — Farm calkd Roma Veeohia— ^Gates not already mentioned — ^Walla of Rome-^
Bridges not already meatioaed.
IfHB road from Flox^jiee through^
Ppggibonsi** to Siena and Radico-
ffim, was always toler^^bly good*
^pugh mountainous^; and has^
yecently b^en so much improved,
Ihat some of tho steepest hills are.
90W avoided.
Siena, formerly called Sezia MU<^
in honour of Caesax, is; by several
authors supposed to have been an
ancient town of Etruria ; while
others attribute its foundation to
the Gaulsi who marched to Rom^
under the command of Brennusi.
It stands on the acclivity of a tufp
mountain ; or^ perhaps, more pro-
perly speaking, the crater or an
extinct volcano; and on<?e con*
'(0) Poggiboasi oaataias totoxably good ians 1 U tec^e Boiso^ and tii« Jibenga. deUa
CoroAa,; ^ laUe^ is ti\e l^t of the tw<;f
128 • ' SIENA. [Ch.VI.
tained a hunored thousand inha- Cities once in alliance with Siena ;
bitants; though its present popula-. namely, the Elephant of Rome
tion does not amount to a fifth part with a castle on its back — ^the
of that number. The buildings are Lions of Florence and Massa — ^the
handsome, and the streets airy; Dragon of Pistoja— the Hare of
but many of them so much up and Pisa — ^the Unicorn of Viterbo — ^the
down hiiil as to be scarcely practi- Goose of Orvieto— the Vulture of
cable for carriages. The wine, Volterra — ^the Stork of Perugia —
water, bread, meat, and fruits, are the Ljmx of Lucca— the Horse of
excellent ; tiie upper classes of Arezzo — and the Kid of Grossetto.
persons well educated, pleasing. Here also is the She-wolf of Siena,
and remarkably kind to Foreigners ; borne in memory of Romulus and
and the Tuscan language is said Remus. This work appears to
to be spoken here m its utmost have been executed about the year
perfection. 1400. The Pavement of the Area
Some remains of the Old Walls under the Cupola, and that before
of Siena are discoverable near the the High- altar, representing Abra-
Church of S. Antonio ; and several ham's intended Sacrifice of his
ancient grottoes, cellars, subterra- Son, are particularly celebrated ;
nean aqueducts, ^., excavated and the lafter is attributed to Mec-
under the mountain, merit notice, carino. The art of paving in this
T?ie Roman Gate is much ad- beautiful way, or, more properly
mired. speaking, of representing figures
The Cathedral, which occupies in black and white marble thus
the site of a temple dedicated to exquisitely, is now lost. Near the
Minerva, is a master-piece of Tus- entrance of the Choir are four large
can-Gothic architecture, incrusted Frescos by Salimbeni. The Chigi-
without and within with black and Chapel contains a Copy, in Roman
white marble : it was erected about Mosaic, of a painting by Carlo
the year 1250; but, in 1284, the Maratta; a Statue of theMagda-
original front was taken down, and lene, by Bernini ; and three other
that which now stands commenced Statues, by his scholars. TTie
by Giovanni, Pisano, and finished Chapel of S. Giovanni contains a
by Agostino and Agnolo, celebrated Statue of that Saint by Donatello !
sculptors of Siena. Near the great This Cathedral is adorned with
door are two Vases for holy water ; Painted Glass Windows, executed
the one executed by Giacomo della in 1549; and Busts of all the
Quercia, the other an Antique, Popes, down to Alexander III:
found at the same time with the among these formerly was the Bust
Graces ; and both these vessels of Pope Joan ; with the following
contain Marble Fishes, so well done inscription under it: ** Johannes
that they appear to be swimming. VIII, Fannina de Angliee,""
The Pavement is reckoned one of The Library, or Sacristy, is now
the most curious works of art in stripped of all its books, except
Italy; and consists of Scripting some volumes of Church Music,
Histories, wrought in Mosaic. The well worth notice, on account of
story of Moses was designed by the Illuminations with which they
Beccafumi, sumamed Meccarino, are decorated : here, likewise, is a
and executed by various artists, celebrated antique Group, in mar-
about the middle of the sixteenth ble, of the three Graces, which was
century. The story of Joshua is found under the Church ; and on
by Duccio di Buoninsegna, Sa- the Walls are Frescos representing
nese. In this Pavement are Hke- the principal transactions of the
wise represented the Emblems of Life of Pius II, by Pinturicchio,
Chi VI.] SIENA— BUONCONVENTO, ^ 1 29
after the designs of Raphael ; who are Works of Salimbeni, Casolani,
is said to hare painted the first ^c. The Theatre makes a part of
Fresco on the rinit. A fine mo- this Palazzo, and is large and com-
dern Statue, by Kicci, ornaments modious.
this apartment. The Fountain constructed in
The Tower of the Palazzo delta 1 1 93, is so famous for the quantity
Signoria, commonly called del and ciuality of its water, as to be
Martgia, and built by A^olo and mentioned in the Inferno of Dante :
Agostino, in 1326, is a fine piece indeed, there are few cities placed
of Architecture. in so elevated a situation as Siena,
The Churches of the Spedcde di which can boast such abundance of
S. Maria delta Scala-~the Agoeti- excellent water : and moreover, the
niani — S, Martino di Provenzano climate, for persons not afflicted
— S, Quirino, and del Carmine ; with weak lungs, is wholesome at
^xidthe Church of the Camaldo- all seasons of the year — ^a recom-
lensi, on the outside of the Town, mendation which does not belong
contain good Pictures. to many cities of Italy p.
The Church of S, Lorenzo is fa- This Town possesses acelebrated
mous for an ancient Roman In- Universi^, several Academies, va-
scription, and a Well, at the bottom luable Libraries, Museums, ^. ;
of which is a sort of Fountain, and gave birth to Gregory VII,
supported by Columns apparently and Alexander III, two of the
of high antiquity : and the Dome- greatest Sovereigns who ever filled
nican Church contains a Painting me Papal throne \
of the Madonna with our Saviour The Environs of Siena appear
in her arms, executed by Guido di to contain several Villas delight-
Siena in 1221, nineteen years be- fully calculated for summer habi*
fore the birth of Cimabue. tations ; but TraveUers should be
The Palazzo degli Eccelsi con- especially careful not to fix them-
tains the .Sala deUa Pace, oma- selves near the Maremma : a con-
mented with Paintings which repre- siderable tract of country, situated
sent, on one side, the Recreations of near the sea, and extremely un-
Peace ; and, on the other. Tyranny, wholesome now ; though here-
Cruelty, Deceit, and War ; all done tofore remaiicably populous,
by Ambrogio, Sanese, in 1338 — ^the Beyond Siena, some leagues to
Sala di Consiglio, where are Paint- the left of the high-ro£^, lies
ings relative to the histoiy of Siena, Chiusi, the ancient Clusium, near
by.the same master, and other sub- the Lake of Chiana, formerly C/a-
jects,byBartoli — ^the Sala di Balia, nius: but this City, once Porse-
omamented with Paintings which na's Capital, is at present thinly
represent the Life of iUexander peopled, on account of its noxious
III ;* and are highly valuable be- air.
cause they exhibit the costume of Buonconvento, pleasantly situ*
the age in which they were done ; ated on the Ombrone, about fifteen
(they are of Giotto's School) — ^the miles fi-om Siena, is likewise in-
Sala del Consistorio, embellished fected with Ma f aria; and here
with some of Beccafumi's finest the Emperor, Henry VII, was poi-
Frescos, and the Judgment of So- soned by receiving the sacrament
lomon, by Luca Giordano ; with from a Domenican monk ',
several other apartments, in which San-Quirico, placed in a healthy
(jp) Siena boasts another reeommendation, deiArmesd^Anglet&rret and. the AqmiaNeras
it is exempt from gfnats; as, generalljr speak- the latter is very comfortable,
ing, are all the elevated parts of this coun- (r) Here are two tolerable Inns, The Aj-
try. hergo deUa gratuP Europ<h ao<i '** CavatlQ
iq) The hest Isns at Siena are, The Hotel Inglese,
K
130 BADICOFANI— BOLSENA, 4f^. tCh.VI;
air, amidst olive-trees and vine- ther, to avoid the'pestilential atmo-':
yards, contains a small Tuscan- sphere of the latter plaxje".
Gothic Church, the Nave and Not far distant from S. Lorenzo-
Choir of which merit notice; a nuovo is Bolsena, supposed to
Palace belonging to the Chigi stand upon the site of the ancient
family ; a curious Well, opposite to VoUinium; one of the principal
the palace, and an ancient Square Cities of Etruria ; and whence the
Tower, supposed to be of Roman Romans, 265 vears before Christ,
origin*. are said to have removed twg
Near the mountain of Radico- thousand statues to Rome ", Here
fan! the soil is volcanic, and the are remains of a Temple, supi . sed
country wild and desolate : the to have been dedicated to the ^ yd-
road, however, is excellent ; the dess Narsia ; £truscan Ornaments,
ascent hye miles in length, and the which adorn the Front of the pa-
descent the same. Hadicofani, rochial Church ; and, opposite to
-which rises two thousand four this Edifice, a Sarcophagus of Ro*
hundred and seventy feet above the - man workmanship. In the envi-
level of the Mediterranean sea, rons are remains of an Amphi-
exhibits, on its summit, large heaps theatre ; together with an immense
of stones, supposed to be the mouth quantity of broken cornices, capi-
of an extinct volcano. The post- tals of pillars, ancient mosaics, q*e*
house, not far distant from this Bolsena, now an unimportant vil-
spot, is a good Inn ; and the little la^e, is seated on a magnificent
Fortress near it was once called Lake, of the same name, anciently
impregnable, though now falling called Locus ViUsinus, and thirty-
to decay. This is the frontier of five Roman miles in circumference:
Tuscany ; and at the fbot of the this Lake contains two small Is-
mountain, on the way to Torre- lands; both of them inhabited;
oelli, the road traverses a torrent, and said, by Pliny, to have floated
sometimes dangerous after rain, in bis time ; though now they are
Beyond TorrecSli is Ponte-Cen- fixed : it is supposed to be the cra-
tino, the first Village of the Ecde- ter of a volcano. Nothing can
siastical State : this countiy is em- exceed the beauty of the views in
bellished with woods, and a fine tiiis neighbourhood ; but the air is
bridge, thrown across the Paglia. unwholesome.
To the next Town, Acquapen- Near Bolsena stands Orvieto»
dente, the approach is particularly celebrated for the excellence of its
beautifiil : this was the Aquula of wines, and containing a handsome
the ancients ; and derives its ap- Tuscans Gothic Cathedral, adorned,
peUation from the water-falls m on the outside, with Sculpture, by
its vicinity \ Nicoolo, Pisano ; and within, by a
Hence, the road traverses a vol- Painting of Signorelli's which Mi-
canic plain to San Lorenzo-nuovo ; chael Angelo particularlv admired,
a remarkably well-constructed. Between Bolsena and Montefias-
clean, and pretty Village ; which cone, the road passes close to a
possesses the advantages of whole- remarkable Hill, covered with re-
some air and ^ood water ; and was gular prismatic basaltine Columns,
built Inr Pius V I, that the inhabit- most of them stancfing obliquely,
ants of what is now called San Lo- and a considerable length out of
renzo-rovinato might remove hi- the ground: indeed, the whole
(0 The best Inn here, // £o/e, contaias Pagsport.
tolerable beds. (ti) Inn, the Post-house^ and tolerably good.
(0 At Acquapendente every Passport mast (v) VAigle dCor is the best Inn at Bbl^eiia,
be examined and sealed by the Police Officers ; tliough unfit for a sleeping-place,
who demand, in consequence, one paol per
Ch. VI.] VITERBa-RONOIGLIONE, ^. Ul
ooimtry, so to iia MoQteilascane, as tradition r^ixnrta, a Cil^ o&ce
exhibits ipocks of basalt, interspers* stood.
ed with forest scenery : and, near Nine leases firom Viterbo, but
the above-named HiU, is an ancient not on the mgh road, is Coroflto ;
Tomb ; erected, according to the remarkable for the number of
inscription it bears, b^L.Canuleius, £trusean antiquities which haire
for himself and his mmily. been, and still are to be found m
Montefiascone, a finely situated^ its vicinity : and one league north
though not a handsome town» pro* of Cimieto is a HUl, called Civita-
ducea such excellent wine, &at a Turdiino, upon which the aaeieBl
German Travell^, a prelates died Tarquinium^ (one of the tw^Ye
firom drinking it to excess ^. great Cities of Etruria) is supfiosed
Between Montefiascone and Vi* to have stood, Sevei^ little emi*
terbo the country is dreary ; and nences lie between this hill and ihit
near the latter Town, on the right, town of Cometo : and those whieb
is a Lake of hot water, the ex< have been opened exhibit subtof*
halations from which are sulphu- raneous. chambers cut in the tufo,
reous. lined with stucco* and filled viiish
Viterbo, supposed to have been Etruscan Vases and Sarcophagi
the ancient Metropolis of Etruria, Ronciglione is situated near &
called Voituma, is situated at the picturesque valley, in a barren soil;
base of Monte-Cimino, anciently where agriculture seems almost
Mon$-Ciminus; and eaicom|»assed wholly neglected; and where the
by walls flanked with towers, which Camx>agna di Roma begins to feel
give it, at a distance, a splendid the influence, during hSt weather»
appearance : it contains about thir-> of that wide-^[tteadLng and incona*
teen thousand inhabitants, is well prehensible i>est. Mat aaria^,
built, well paved, and embellished Near Monterosi (M<mi Eroim}
with handsome Fountams and a is a sheet of Lava ; not far henoe^
fine Gate, erected by Clement the Loretto and Siena roads jonv
XIII ^ falling into the Vta-Cama; and
The road firom Viterbo to Ronei- beyoiSi the junction of these roads,
fidione traverses part of the Monte* is a Lake, which emits an olfeosive
Cimino, amidst flowers, odori&rous smeU ■.
herbs, oaks, chestnuts* and other Baceano, placed in a peculiarity
forest- trees ; and at the base of noxious cdr, is only two posts from
this mountain, neaar RondgEone, is Rome ; and frx>m the hiU above
the Lake of Vico, anciently LacW" Baceano, S. Peter*s may be diseo*
CimintM, encircled with richly vered; while m a valley, on the
wooded hills, and forming a beau- left, near Storta, may be seen a hat^
tiful basin of near three miles in ruined Castle, supposed to stand
circumference, said to have been upon the Site of the ancient Citfti*
the funnel of a volcano ; and where, del of Veii •.
(w) The Inn at ]^ontefiascone is on the out" niusas reports, " that thig City- ttood on »
si4e of the walls of that Town, and yery high and steep rock, about an hundred atadea.
oomfortable. from Rome ; and was as lar^ as Athens, and
(jp) At Viterbo, The ^<iii^a IferOt is 4 very the stron^st place belimging to the Etrs*
good Ian- rians." Jbutropius fixes it at the distaaoe of
(y) Ronciglione conf&ins two Inns, The eighteen miles from Rome. Llyv confirma
J^eone ^Qro^ and The HAel de$ trot* Mawres i this opinion : and Zaaehi aaseits, that it wa»
the former is tolerable; and both, bein^ whole- situated in the wood of Baceano and Monte-
somely situated, are therefore preferable as lupoli, to the right of the VichCassia; adding,
sleeping placeft-to the inns nearer Rome, all of that he saw, on this spot, fragments of aneient
which are infected by MoT aria. walls, columns, &o., and even tracedCamil-
(*) The Ian near the Lake, ftt Monterosi, lns*8 celebrated Mine, or Ci«ioi»/«, with the
is a tolerably good one« difi^rent pits by means of which hts aoldierg
(a) Tte Site of Veii haa been mnoh die* entered the Citadel,
pated by antiquaries. Dionysius of Halicar- K ^
ua PONTE-MOLLE--ROME. [Ch.VX.
No country can be more dreaiy, by Bernini) derives its appellation
nor more nedected, than that which from its vicinity to the Church of
liesbetweenBaccanoandthePonte- S. Maria del Popolo.
Molle : but,- from the heights near Rome has suffered so materially
this Bridge, Rome presents herself from volcanic eruptions, earth-
to view; gradually expanding as quakes, and the frequent ravages
the road descends to the banks of of invading armies, that even the
the Tiber. surface of the ^ound on which it
Between Storta and the Ponte- originally stood is completely alter-
Molle is the Tomb of P. Vihius ed; insomuch that on digging deep,
Marianus. it is common to discover columRs,
The Ponte-Molle, ancientiy Pom statues, fragments of edifices, and
Mtlvitts, was built by M. iEmilius sometimes even the pavement of
ScaiuTis ; and is celebrated for the the ancient City, from twenty to
vision seen here by Constantine; thirbr feet under ground. Thestu-
and the victory gained by thatPrince pendous common-sewers, through
over the Tyrant Maxentius, who which the offal of Rome was con-
was drowned in the river near this veyed into the Cloaca-maocima, are
spot ; there are, however, scarce many of them choked up ; and the
any remains of the ancient Bridge, Cloaca-maxima itself is in bad
except its foundation. order* : this causes pestilential air;
Tlie approach to Rome is by the and the workmen who, by dig^ng
Via-Ca8sia^\ but, after passing deep, Open apertures to the ancient
the Ponte-Molle, the modem road common sewers, frequently suffer
nearly follows the direction of the from the putrid effluvia. In the
ancient Vic^Flaminia, between the neighbourhood of Rome all the
Fincian and the Marian Hills. Be- land is ill cultivated and worse
yond the Ponte-Molle is the Naso- drained ; so that fogs and noxious
nian Sejmlchre, constructed in a vapours prevail there during night:
rock, which overlooks the road, by it likewise abounds with sulphur,
Q. Nasonius Ambrosius, of the arsenic, and vitriol : hence, there-
Ovidian Family. Near the Porta fore, in some measiure, perhaps,
del Popolo, toward the Porta-Pin- may arise that fatal Mat aria which
ciana, is the Muro-torto, a part of never affected ancient Rome ; be-
the City-wall which dedines from cause these minerals were either
its perpendicular;- and adjoining to unknown to its inhabitants, or
this, is another part of the Wall, suffered to remain buried in the
supposed to have been the Sepul- bowels of the earth. The tempe-
chre of the Domitii, and the Depo- rature of the seasons also seems
sitoiy of the ashes of Nero " . changed ; for Horace gives us to
Nothing, of its kind, can be more understand that, in his time, the
magnificent than the entry into streets of Rome, during winter,
Rome through the Por/ac^e/i'qpo/o; were filled with ice and snow : and
where originally stood a Gate erect- it appears, from Juvenal, that to
ed by Aurelian,. when he enclosed see tne Jiber frozen over was not
the Campus Martins. This Gate, uncommon : whereas, at present,
or one conti^ous to it, was called it is extraordinary for snow to lie
Porta-Flamtnia .• the present Gate three days in any part of the City ;
(built by Yignola, and ornamented and, respecting the Tiber, no per-
- ' (&) Three roads led from Rome to Lom- on the Pincian Hill, extended to the site of
bardy ; the Flaminian along the Adriatic ; the this Sepulchre.
Awreliait along the Mediterranean; and the (<Q Seyeralof the common-tewers have been
CatsioM between these two, through the inte- recentlf repaired, by order of Leo XII; ^
rior of the country. oiroumstanco likely to dei;;reM6 JUioT aria*
(c) Tht Oaxdens of the Pomitian Family,
Ch.VI.] ' HOME. 13S
son recollects to have seen it fro- Acqua-Felice ; and that of the
zen. These circumstances, added Acqua-PaxUina : tiie first was re-
to the want of trees to agitate and paired by Paul IV , and discharges
improve the .air, concur to account itself into the Fontana di Trevi;
•for the present unhealthiness of the second comes from the neigh-
some parts of Rome, and nearly bourhood of Palestrina, twenty-
all its Campagna, during summer: two miles distant from Rome, and
besides which, the mouths of the is one of the many works which do
Tiber are choked with mud and honour to the reign of Sextus V,
sand ; while its bed has been con- who expended a imllion of scudi in
siderably narrowed by filth and repairing it: this Aqueduct dis*
rubbish, thrown from the houses charges itself into the Fontana di
situated on its banks'; so that a Termine. The third, which derives
strong south wind often makes it its name from its restorer, Paul V,
overflow, and inundate the City and is separated into two channels ;
its environs. — Could this river be one of which supplies Monte-Gia-
tumed into another channel, and nicolo, and the other the Vatican :
the present bed cleansed and deep- it comes thirty miles ; and princi-
ened, what an advantage mient pally discharges itself into the
Rome derive in point of healthml- • Fountain near the Church of S,
ness ; and what a harvest to Anti- Pietro-Montorio.
quaiies might the river's bed af- Rome, during the reign of Va»
ford • ! — So unwholesome now is lerian, was surrounded oy a wall,
the Campagna di Roma in July said to have been near fifty Roman
and Augaist, that, during the^e miles in circumference'; and the
months, it is dangerous to sleep number of inhabitants, during its
within twenty miles of the City : most flourishing state, was, by
Rome itself, nowever, even at this some authors, computed at four
season, is not usually visited by millions >. Modem Rome is not
Mai' aria, either on the Corso, the seventeen Roman mDes in circum-
Quirinal Hill, or the streets com- ference; and contains. Suburbs
prised within ^e Rioni Monti, inclusive, scarce one hundred and
Trevi, Colonna, Campo-Marzo, fifty thousand inhabitants : but re»
Ponte, Parione, Re^ola, S. Eusta- duced as this ancient Mistress of
cio, Pigna, and S.' Angelo : but at the world now is, in size and popu-
this season the climate is oppres- lation, reduced too as her Papal
sively hot ; though, during winter throne has been in wealth and
and spring, temperate and de- power, still the matchless Frescos
lightful. of Raphael, Michael Angelo, Da-
The ancient Romans had Aque- niello da Volterra, Giulio Romano,
ducts sufficient to convey daily to Annibale Caracci, Guido, Dome-
the City eight hundred thousand nichino, Guercino, ^c, are unalien-
tons of water : the three principal bly her's ; stiU the Master-pieces
Aqueducts now remaining are, that ot Grecian Sculpture adorn her
of the Acquor Vergine ; mat of the museums ; still her stately palaces,
(e) Besides sixty colossal stataes which City as in Villas not far distant : and this wall
adorned ancient Rome, her streets and forums of fifty miles in oircnmferenee might probably
were lined with porticos, supported by columns enclose the suburbs of Rome, which must,
of marble, and embellished with busts and judging from the remains now left, have been
statues innumerable ; and a large portion of very extensive.
these precious remains of antiquity is sup- (a) Tacitus says, the Emperor Claudius
posed to have been thrown into the Tiber, bo maae a lustrum, by which the number of inha-
numerous were the marble columns in Rome bitants was found to be sixty-eight classes,
that a tax was put upon them. consisting of one hundred and sixtyfour thou-
(/) The upper ranks of ancient Romans do saad each,
not appear to have reiided so much in the .
lU R6MB. fCh. VI.
mM^ chxanh^i beftolilbl fbuii* |^ter Tonani^; i^moved from fhft
tuns, gigantio eolunms, sbipend- foundations of the Arches of Sep-*
OQs obeiulai^ ftnd^ pe^less amphi^ timius Severus and Constantino
theatre, entitle her to be called the the rubbish by vrhich they were
moit magmftoent City of Europe, in some measure concealed, and'-
«iid the unrivaUed Mistress of cleared away from the Temple of
the Arts! — Som^ of her streets^ Peace an immense collection of
however, ars ill paved and dirty I earth, which entombed nearly one*
whik ruins - of inmiense edifices, third of its remains,
which continually present them* The following will be ^und Hie
fidres to view, give an impression most convenient way to visit the
of melancholy to eveiy thinking Antiquities^, Churches, Palaces,
spectator. 4^, best worth notice at Rome,
The society at Rome is excel* and likewise to prevent Travellers
lent; and the circumstance of from wasting theur time, andbur-
eveiy man, whether foreigner or dening their memory, by a minute
native, being permitted to live as survey of objects not particularly
he pleases, without exciting won* interesting ; thereby, perhaps, de-
der, conbributes essentially to ge* priving themselves of leisure to
neral comfort. At Rome, too, examine those which merit se-
every person may find amusement: dulous attention. But, with re-
fer whether it be our wish to dive spect to the Antiquities, It should
deep into classical knowledge, be remembered, that whoever
whether arts and sciences be our wishes to see these wrecks of an-
pmrsuit, or whether we merely seek cient splendour advantageously,
for new ideas and new objects, the ought to visit them, for Sie first
end cannot ftiii to be obtained in time, by the mild and solemn light
this most interesting of Cities, of the moon ; which not only assi-
where eveiy stone is an historian : milates with Men greatness, but
— «nd though Rome has, in some throws every defect into shadow ;
respects, suffered from her late leaving Imagination to supply every
Hmers, the French, she is, gene* beauty, and array every object in
nlly speakinff, obliged to them ; as its pristine garb of magnificence.
they removed the earth with which FbrO'Romano K There were two
time had buried part of the Colos-* kinds of Forums in Rome,— fbra
Beum ; disencumbered the Temple Civilia, and Fbra Vencdia ; the
of Vesta from the plaster-walls former serving as ornaments to the
which destroyed its beauty >'j6xca* City, and likewise as Courts of
vated the Forum of Traffei,^ the Justice ; the latter as Market-
Baths of Titus, and the lower parts places. The Forum Romanum
of the Temples of Fortune, and Ju* was of the first kind; and here
(K) The ensuing detcrif^tiob (rf the Antiuni- AbU>Aia6 e FfttaAtina. (13) Tempio di Remo.
tiM of Homo is ohlcflytftkta fhHH Oftoavsiiis (14) Ctotmufttioii of the VU Sacra toward
of Halicarnassas : heoanse he seens to have the Aroo Fabiano, from the angle of the Bali*
been the moxt celebrated ancient Antiquary, lica, near the T6rapio di Remo. (15) Altera*
as his opinions are adopted by Liyy, and other tions made in the Via Sacra when the Basilica
Xroaaft Biatoriani. wai erteted. (IS) Contihuation of the Via
(0 £xFLioaTioiv ov TBI NVMiRicAb Fi« SMta extending toward the Cftt>itol, hnd
oumsfl IN mt »LAlr or thi Fo»u« oroeting the spot where the Bteiliea WM
RoMAMUM. iteeted. (17) Areo di Tito* (18) Cella del
{%} Colon&a di Fooa. (7) Original Oite of th« ma 8aora Via. (3d) Quarter anciently eAlM
4Mtf|nu (8)Coinifio. (9) Curia. (10) Aroo Carinw. (84) Caput Vitt8aora. (B5) PiaMa
Fabiano. (11) Branch of the Via Saers lead* dell' Anlttatn Flario. (S6) Met* dttda&s.
ing to the Circus Maximus. (13) Tempio di («7) Ai^ di Coettetiao.
•1
I -1 ■ > y'//M////^<>
Ch.^.] ROMS. Hi
Itood the Coiditittlii iind the Ros-^ Villft-Boi^hele is Mid to h&Ye been
tra. The Coiiiitium was a large tI^ien^
Itportment^ foir a considerable pe- Tempio delta Concordia, Ad-^ ;
riod, 0]jeii at the toji ; it contained joining to the remains of the Por- '
the Tribunal, and Ivory Chairi tico S[ the TabtUarium, modem
whence the Chief-Mai^strate ad - excavations hAve disentombed the
ininistered justice. I'he Rostra base of an Edifice, supposed, fronl
was so called because this building inscriptions found among its rUins,
contained an Orators* PtQpit, ?ar« (and likewise from ancient ac
Aished with Beaks Of Vessels, taken counts of Rome) to have been the
. by the Romans, from ihe Peo- Temple of Concord, mentioned by
pie of Antium^ The Forum Ro* Plutarch, Dion, <f^. as situated be-
manum was oblong, and is sup- tween the Forum and the Capitol,
posed to have extended In length, near the Prisons, with its front
from the Chiesa della Consola- opposite to the Comitium. Such,
zione to that of S. Adriano ; and, precisely, is the Site of the Ruin
in breadth, from the three Columns, m question ; and* therefore, anti-
called the Temple of Jupiter Stator, auaries of the present day call it
to the Triumphal Arch of Septi- the remains of the Temple of Con-
mius Severus \ It was made by cord, raised by Furius Camillus,
Romulus and his Colleague, Ta- in consequence of the reconcilia-
tius "*, and surrounded with por* tion he effected between the Senate "*.
lieos and shops by Tarquinius Ais- and People of Rome. It was con-
cus : little, however, now remains sumed by fire, but rebuilt ; and
to be seen, except heap's of ruins, vestiges of the Cella may still be
and piles of vegetable earth ; the traced. In this Temple Cicero
immense accumulation of which convoked the Senate which con-
cannot be accounted for. The demned Lentulus and Ceth^gus,
Via Sacra f so called because, on the accomplices of Catiline,
that spot, peace was made betweeti Tempio di Giove Tonante. This
Romulus and Tatius, and sacrifices beautiful Edifice was erected by
offered to the gods in consequence, Augustus, in gratitude for his es-
traversed the Forum Romanum, cape from lightning. Only three
from the side near the Oolos- Columns of the Portico *, with part
seum to the Arch of Septimius of the Entablature and Frieze, now
Severus ; and in tiie middle of this remain ; and on the last are sacri-
Forum was the Lacus'XIurtius ; ficial instruments in ^cw^o-n/two;
whence the fine Alto^rilievo in the namely, the Preeflculum, the Par
(K) thii-ing the early days of Rome, an toline Hill, cut down the wood, and made the
Orators' Ptxipit was erected in the centre of Forum where the Romans now hare a Mar-
fhe Fonun, near the Senate House : and after ket."— See Dionysius of Hamcarnassus.
the Romans had conquered the maritime City (n) Rome is supposed to have been built in
ofAntium, and taken, from the vessels they the mouth of an extinct volcano : and this
found in that Port, bronze Ship-beaks, callea, opinion seems justified by the story of M. Cur-
in Latin, RoBtrOy the aforesaid Orators' Pulpit tius, and the account of the manner in which
-Was decorated with these spoils, and called, the Temple of Peace was destroyed. The
in consequence. The Rottra, Ceesar erected l^aeut Curiiui did not, however, according to
a second Pulpit, deoominated the new Rostra^ Dionysius of Halicarnassus, derive its name
in that part of the Forum nearest to the Vela- from the Roman Knight who, about 360 years
hrum. B. C, precipitated himself and his horse into
(/) A distance of about 790 feet oneway the yawning gulph which had suddenly opened
ana 600 the other. in the centre of the Forum ; but was so called
(m)*Mn consequence of the peace concluded because the Sabine general, Cnrtius, nearly
between Romulus and Tatius, they raised con- lost his life in thu I^ke, when the great bat-
jointiy, about the middle of the Vta Saera^ an tie occurred between Romulus and Tatius.
Altar, on which they pledged themselves to Co) Vitruvius says, the Temple of Jupiter
observe their treaty. Tatius afterwards filled Tonans was adorned with a Portico tnpported
up great part of the marsh under the C»pi^ by thirty Columns.
/
13$ ROME. [Ch..VI.
tera, the Aspergillum, the Securis Caracalla and Geta. This Arch
and Culter, together with the AU (of the Composite order) was ori-
bogalerus, or white mitre, worn by ginally adorned with a Trimnphal
the priests ofJupiter. The Columns, car, to which were attached Six
which are made of Luna marble Horses : in the Car were t\yo Fi-
fluted and adorned with Corinthian gures, supposed to have represent-
Capitals, seem to have been ori- ed Caracsdla and Geta<»; and at
ginally tinged with the Tyrian pur- the extremities of the Edifice were
pie colour prevalent in every part four Statues of Soldiers, two on
of Pompeii p. foot, and two on horseback. The
Tempio della Fortuna. Of this bassi-rilievi on this Arch record
Edifice, long mistaken for the Tem- the Victories" of Severus over the
pie of Concord, the Portico alone Parthians, and other uncivilized
remains ; and this Portico neither Nations : and toward the end of
faces the Comitium, nor is it very the third line of an Inscription still
near the Prisons. It consists, in visible, and throughout the whole
front, of six Ionic Columns of of the fourth line, the marble has
granite (whose bases and capitals evidently been pared away ; be-
are of white marble) with one Co- cause Caracalla, after having mur-
\axan on each side : they support dered Geta, effaced his name,
an Entablature and a Pediment, wherever it appeared, and substi-
and all vary in diameter ; which tuted other w<»rds instead.
circumstance induces a belief Chiesa di S. Adriano, This
that this Edifice must have Church, the Facade of which is
been restored with materials bor- ancient, though apparently built
rowed from other buildings. More- after the Arts began to decline,
over, the interior Frieze now re- was long supposed to stand on the
maining exhibits some ornaments site of the Temple of Saturn, (the
of excellent workmanship, and Treasury of the Roman Republic,)
others so inelegant as to savour mentioned by Dionysius of Hali-
strongly of the dark ages : and as camassus as having been erected
it appears evident that the Temple in the Street leading to the Capitol,
of Fortune, situated on the ascent about the time of the Consulate of
to the Capitol, was burnt during Titus Lartius ' : and as the Church
the reign of the Emperor Maxen- in c^uestion stands in the Street
tius, and rebuilt about the age of leading to the Capitol, there seems
C^onstantine, and likewise equally reason to suppose it occupies the
evident that the Temple of Fortune Site of the ancient IVeasury, before
stood very near that of Jupiter which Augustus, according to Ta-
Tonans, which the Portico in ques- citus, placed the Milliarium au-
tion does, antiquaries seem satis- reum, whence the distance to eveiy
fied that this Portico was the en- province was measured ; and whicn
trance to the Temple of Fortune. is said to have stood in the centre
Arco di Settimto Severe, erected of Rome •. Modem antiquaries,
abouttheyear 205 of the Christian however, suppose the Temple of
era, by the Senate and People of Saturn to have been erected close
Rome, in honour of the Emperor to the Tarpeian Rock, near the
Septimius Severus, and his sons. Temple of Fortune, and the Arch
(p) In the Fluting, near the Capitals, this to the Christian era, by the Consuls Anlus
colour may be plainly distinguished. Sempronius, and Marcus Minueius.
(jj) Probably the sons of the Emperor, be- (s) From this column, which, acoording to
cause he was prevented, by the gout, ifrom Dionysins of Halicamassus, stood nearly in
assisting in the triumphal procession. the centre of ancient Rome, the great roads
(r) I^y says, the Temple of Saturn was branched off in straight Unes to ftU parts of
consecrated in the year of Aome 49i, previous Italy.
jCkyi.] .ROME. 137
of Tiberius; and likewise suppose of an Edifice, called the Curia
the Church of S. Adriano to stand Hostilia, or Hall dedicated to the
on the foundations of the Basilica use of the Senate, are so placed,
of Paulus iSmilius ; which Edifice, and likewise so far distant from
according to some opinions, was these Columns, as to make it
adorned with the Brazen Gate, now . doubtful whetiber thejr constituted
removed to the Basilica of S. Gio- part of the Curiae which, it is to
yanni in Laterano, and long thought be presumed, the ComiHum cer*
to have originally belonged to the taiiuy did. Some persons suppose
Temple of Saturn. they adorned a building called the
Colonnadi Foca, This Column, Gr^^co^tom, which was added to
which probably made part of an an- the ComiHum^ in the time of Pyr-
cient building, was erected, in the rhus, for the Reception of Ambas-
seventh century, on itsT)resent site, sadorS; and which, having been
by the Exarch Smaragdus, in ho- destroyed, was rebuilt by Antoni-
iiour of the Emperor Phocas, whose nus Pms : but as ttie flutings of the
statue of bronze gilt is said to have Coliunns in question have me same
stood on the top of the Column. Tyrian purple tinge which is seen
Comizio. On the north side of in tiie Flutings of the Columns
the Via Sacray near the Palatine belonging to the Temple of Jupiter
H^, stand three beautiful fiuted Tonans, perhaps they were aU
CorinUiian Columns of Pentelic erected about the same period '.
marble, supporting fragments of a We might be in some measure
finelyjworked Entablature, and long enabled to ascertain the site of the
supposed to have been part of the Temple of Jupiter Stator, if we
Portico of a Temple erected to Jtnew the spot where the old Gate
Jupiter Stator*, by Romulus, on of the Palatium stood: for Livy
the spot where he rallied his sol- speaks thus, when describing the
diers who fled from the Sabines. battle between Hostus Hostilius
Butthenowremainingpart of this and Mettius Curtius, (the former *
Edifice appears to have been built commanding the Romans, the lat-
when architecture had risen to a ter the Sabines,) which battle was
much higher degree of perfection the cause of the erection of the
than during the days of Romulus : Temple of Jupiter Stator. " No
which circumstance, added to a sooner had Hostilius fallen, than
considerable portion of the Fasti the Romans fled : they were re-
Consulares having been found pulsed to t?ie old Gate of the PcUa-
here, has induced antiquaries to Hum, Romulus, who had been
think these beautiful ruins part of borne away by the tide of discom-
theComitium ; especially as theTem- fitted soldiers, now stopped, raising
pie ofJupiter Stator may be suppos- his arms toward Heaven, and ex-
ed (according to the report of Dio- claiming; O, Jupiter, by thy di-
nysius of Halicamassus) to have rection, under thy auspices, I
stood on another spot, between the placed here the first stones of the
Via Bacra and the Palatine Hill ». foundation of Rome I The Capitol
In opposition, however, to the con- is already in the power of the Sa-
jecture that these Columns, long bines ; they won it by a crime :
denominated the Temple of Jupiter . they have now gained the Valley,
Stator, were part of the ComtVtMm, and even menace this Palatium.
it may be urged, that the remains O, preserve from our enemies the
(f) Stator (ermrv^X he who makes to stop latine Hill than are the remains of the Comi*
m stand. tium. -kt^^a:^:
(»)Dionysiu8 of Halicamassus describes the («) The Comitmm, accordmj to WarOini,
site of the Temple as being nearer to the Fa* ^ras finished by Augustus.
181
KOMI*
EciuVt
Sot coiuecfatdd tothdef Dispel CtiiU> Which ho\M towftrd ihd
e fean of the Romans t arrest OftTOtoL
their disgraceful flight ! and here^ uMesa di S*. Matia LibdrfiM^,
in this very plaee, I pledge myself Falerius 8U})t)dses the Temple of
to erect a Temple to thee, under Vesta, erected by Numa, (afid
the name of Jupiter Stator; a wherethe Vestal virgins* guarded
Temple which shall serve as an the Sacred fire and the Po/^fum,)
eternal memorial of thy protection to have 'stood on, or near, the sit^
granted to Rome t — The Romans of this Chtirch : and in its vicinity,
stopped, as if th^ had heard the according to report, several sepul-
voice of a god. Curtius pursuing chral inscriptions have been found,
them .from one extremity of the apparently belonging to the tombs
Formn to the other, was already of Vestals, whose burial-place, dur-
near the Gate of the Palattum, ing their high office, was in a small
when RomuluS) at the head of a domain called the Sacred Grove,
band of intrepid warriors, attacked and appertaining to the Temple of
him : he fled ; and his horse, Vesta. It seems, however, more
alarmed by being followed, threw probable that the Church of 8*;
himself into a Bog, which had Maria Liberatrice stands on the
nearly proved fatal to his rider'." site of the SaCred Grove', than on
It appears, from this account, that the foundations of the Temple :
theflight of the Romans must have for Dionvsius 'of HalicamassuS
been stopped some way beyond the says, •• Numa built the Temple of
Bog called, since, the Lake of Cur- Vesta, which we now see between
tius ; therefore, the old Gate of the Palatine Hill and the Capitol."
ttiePalatium was, in all probability, Dion Cassius Mkewise places the
further from the Capitol than are Temple of Vesta between the Pala*
the Columns long called the Teiii- tine Hill and the Tarpeian Rock,
pie of Jupiter Stator. to the west of the Forum ; and if
Curia. Between the back part this was its situation, it must have
of the Church of S*. Maria Libe- stood behind the Church, and ra-
ratrice and the Temple of Romu- ther beyond what is supposed to
lus, now the Church of S. Teodoro, have been the limits of the Forum,
are ruins of a brick Edifice, erected Nevertheless it is said by Dionysius
by TuUus Hostihus, and hence of Halicamassus, when he men-
ealled Curia HoitiUa ; where, as tions the young Warriors who an*-
already mentioned, the Senate usu- nounced the defeat and death of
ally assembled. Three of the Tarquinius Sextius, **That they
Walls are in tolerable preservation 5 appeared in the Forum, where they
and several Arches, belonging to bathed in the water of a fountain,
this Edifice, may still be traced in n^r the Temple of Vesta; and,
a House adjoining to the Church after proclMhung the victory, quit*
Of S*. Maria Liberatrice. Judging ted the Forum." He also men-
by the present shape of the ground, tioris that, in the thrum, on the
a long flight of steps (probably spot where the Warriors were seen
terminated by a porhco) occupied to bathe, the Romans raised a
the lower part of the feyade of the Temple to Castolf and Pollux*.
(w) See T. Livm Lib. I.
(A>)The Vestal Vir^ns wereboand to keep
the lacred fire uaextiAgaished, to gaatd the
Palladium, (a celebrated statue of Pallas
supposed to have been brought b;^ ^neaa
from Troy,^ and likewise to reconcile differ-
ences, and oecome arbiters in causes of mo-
ment. Vestals were so called from their god-
dess, Vesta, or Fire ; the word, Vesta, being
d«rilred from the UebreW root VM flrtf, Wli«<Mfl
the Greek E^rm, fire, add the Lati» Vesta.
(^y) Cicero describes the Sacred Oroya as
being at the foot of Palatine Hill, and stretch-
ing «rcst«fard.
Qe) When Caligula extended the Imperial
Palace toward the Fonm, he so cofttrited
that the Temple of Castor ahd PoUnx
to be the Vestibule of his mftosion.
The Laeui CurHta U 66njeetuTed brotixd dlt, ftdom^ with stup^n-
to hare been near the site of the dous coUimns, and enriched with
Church of S*. Maria Liberatrice ; the finest statues and pictures of
atid on this side of the Forum the the Grecian Schools ; among which
Bostra, the Temple of Augustus, was the celebrated portrait t^
and the Basilica of Porcius* aare Ial3rsus, painted by Protogenes,
Supposed to have stood •. ^ for the Rhodians, and the statue,
Tempio di Antonino e Fxastina, mentioned by Pliny, of the Nile
built A.D. 168, by the Roman with sixteen Children. The citi*
Senate, in memory of their Em- zens deposited their wealth in tiiis
peror, Antoninus Pius, and his Temple; and here Titus Vespa^
Consort, Faustina. The Portico sian placed the spoils of Jerusa*
of this Temple, now the Church of lem. In short it served as a pub-
8. Lorenzo in Miranda, displays lie treasury till about an hundred
ten Corinthian Columns of mar- years after its foundation ; when
ble, called, by the Romans, cipol- the whole Edifice, with tsXL the pre<-
lino. The sides of the Portico cious contents, are said to hare
seem originally to have been en- l)een destroyed by fire, which
crusted with marble, now taken Issued suddenly from the bowels
away ; but a Frieze of White mar* of the earth : and this record of
ble, aaomed with Gryphons, &c. the destruction of the Temple^
still remains, and proves the an- added to an idea that the style of
cient magnificence of the building, architecture is not good enough
Teifipio di Remo\ now Chiesa for the days of Vespasian, has
rfg* B.S. Conmo e Damiano. The lately led antiquaries to conjee*
Bronze Door, Marble Door-case, ture that these ruins, called the
and Porphyry Columns on the out- Temple of Peace, are in fact no-
side of this Building, appear to thing more than the remains of a
be antique ; as does tne Rotondo, 6 asiUca erected near the Colosseum
which serves as a Vestibule : but by Maxentius ; though, after his
the Body of the Church seems to death, called the Basilica of Con^
have been erected about the time stantine. Perhaps, however, we
of Constantine. In this Temple might come nearer the truth by
was a Pavement, containing the supposing that Maxentius raised
Plan of Rome, cut on white mar** his Basmca on the Site of the
ble, probably in the reign of Sep- Temple of Peace " ; availing him-
timius Severus and Caracalla ; self of the remains — for remains
which plan, mutilated and unme- there surely must have been—of
thodized, is now fixed into the the ancient Edifice, in order to
Wall of the Staircase of the Mu»- construct his own : but he ap-
seum of the Capitol. The Sub- i>ears to have extended his Basi-
terranean Part of ttds Temple me- lica beyond the Site of the Temple;
rits notice. as, in consequence of recent ex-
Tempio ddla Pace. Vespasian, cavations, part of the Via Sacra
ftiter terminating the war with was discovered imder the Basilica :
Judea, raised Siis vast Edifice and the New Branch of the afore-
about the year 76* It was the said Road, evidently made after
noiit magnificent Temple of an- the Basilica was buHt, is not con-
d^nt Rome ; being encrusted with structed like the ancient part.
(a) Pliny informs nt thit tlt« first Stui-di&l, double Temple, ereetei to the Brothers Rq.
krected fbr public use ftt Rome, was i^aeed e& mains and Kemiis.
this side of the Forum, about the year U. O. (c) The rains of this Kdifiee, in their pr*.
491. sent state, correspond with the acegint givea
(6) Aeewdiag to some oplttiona tUt W«b a by Pliay of tM l^mple of Pt»oe. But, Net.
1. 36. c. 15,
140 . ROME. [Ch. VI.
This New Branch runs parallel fluted Composite Columns. On
with two sides of the Basilica; the Frieze is the triumphal pro-
and then, passing in front of the cession of Titus, together with
Temples of Remus, and Antoni- the Image of a River-god, pro-
nus and Faustina, joins the Old bably the Jordan. Under the
Road near the Site of the Arch of Arch on one side is Titus, seated
Fabian. The ancient Via Sacra in a Car, conducted by the Genius
went from the Temple of Peace, of Rome, and attended by Victory,
on the left of the Temple of Venus who is crowning him with laurel,
and Rome, toward the Amphi- On the other side of the Arch are
Iheatre. Little now can be traced the Spoils of the Temple at Jeru-
jof the splendid pile of ruins called salem, namely, the table of Shew-
Constantine's Basilica, except bread, the tables of the Law % the*
three immense Arches, which Seven-branched Golden Candle-
formed one side of the Edifice, stick, the Jubilee Trumpets, the
part of the Roof, Niches for sta- Incense Vessel, &c., copied, no
tues, and Doors of Communica- doubt, from the ori^nsils ; and
tion ; but what serves to convey therefore the most faithful repre-
some idea of the grandeur of this sentations extant of these sacred
Bmlding is one of the eight Co- Jewish antiquities '. The Deifi-
lumns with which its interior was cation of Titus is represented on
embellished, namely, a fluted Co- the Roof of the inside of the Arch,
rinthian Shaft of white marble, This Edifice was nearlv destroyed,
sixteen English feet and a half in that its ornaments might be placed
circumference, and without base elsewhere : but enough remains to
or capital, forty-eight feet high " : i)rove« that it was the most beau-
it now stands before the Church tiful building of its kind ever
of S*. Maria Maggiore. The Ba- erected at Rome*. To prevent
silica appears to have been of a the Arch from falling, it has been
quadrangular shape ; about three recently and judiciously repaired ;
hundred feet in length, and in for the modem work is of such a
breadth about two hundred : and description that it cannot be con-
the remaining part exhibits a style founded with the ancieiit.
of architecture anterior to the Gradinata del Tempio di Ve-
days of Maxentius, and not dis- nere e Roma* The steps recently
jsimilar to that in the Temple of excavated, between the Church
Venus and Rome*. of S*. Franceses Romana and the
Arco di Tito ; built with Pen- Arch of Titus, appear to be part
telic marble, by the Senate and of those which led from the Forum
People of Rome ; and dedicated to to the Temples of Venus and
Titus, in honour of his conquest Rome. These Temples were en-
of Jerusalem. This Edifice con- compassed by a Portico, adorned
sists of one large Arch, over which with a double row of Columns of
is an Attic Story. Each front was grey granite : remains of wliich
originally embellished with four are stul discoverable; as are the
(c) According to Vasi, this Column is fifty- (/) Josephns supposes the Veil, and Tables
eight Paris feet and a half in height, base and of the Law, to have been placed in the Im-
i;apital iuclasive ; and rather more than perial Palace at Rome ; and the Candlestick,
nineteen feet in circumference. and other spoils, in the Temple of Peace.
(ji) Apartments of small dimensions, which The Golden fillet, according to report, was
probablr held some of the treasures deposited seen in the days of Adrian ; and several of
in the Temple of Peace, were, in conseoneace the sacred Hebrew vessels were carried by
-of an excavation, found under the Basilica of Genseric to Africa.
.Constantine. (a) Judea is always represented, on the
• (jO ThQ Tablet of the Iiaw »re no longer Medals struck by Titus, as a Female, sitting
distinguishable. . on the ground, in a postaro denoting sorrow.
ch:vij romk; i4i
Foundations of the Portico. The from a colossal Statue (one hun-
Temples, though each had its se- dred and twen^ feet hih) of
parate Entrance and Cella, formed Nero, in the character ofApoUo,
only one edifice, in length about which was placed here by TOus ;
three hundred and thirty feet, and who, at the consecration of the
about one hundred and sixty in Edifice, exhibited Gladiatorial
width. The front toward the Shows* in its Arena *= during a
Forum was adorned with Co- hundred days: and five thousand
rinthian fluted Columns of Pa- Wild-beasts, together with some
rian marble, near six feet in thousands of G-Tadiators, are said
diameter ; as was that toward the to have been sacrificed on this oc-
Colosseum ; and on either side casion. The Colosseo was erected
were Columns of the same de- by Flavins Vespasian, the Father
scription. Fragments of which re-' of Titus ; and is supposed to stand
main. Bwond the Steps leading on the site of the Fish-ponds of
from the Forum on one side, and Nero. Its exterior circudar Wall
the Colosseum on the other, to the rests on two steps ; and had Three
Courts of this double Temple, Rows of Arches, eighty in each
were Steps which encompassed Row, placed one above the other,
the BuiMmg, and led to its Vesti- with half columns between them,
bules. Each Cella likewise was to support their respective Enta-
approached by a Flight of Steps, blatures ; the first Row of Half-
and adorned with Columns of por- columns being Doric, the second
I>hyry, found, from recent excava- Ionic, the third Corinthian ; and
tions, to have been upward of two the fourth Story, which terminates
feet in diameter. The Roof was the Edifice, was embellished with
stuccoed and gilt ; and the interior Corinthian pilasters, and had Win-
Walls and Pavement were en- dows instead of Arches. The ex-
crusted with giallo antico and ser- terior Arches of the first Row are
pentino. The Cella of each Tem- marked with numerical letters, in-
ple, the Niches for the statues of dicative of the interior Staircases,
Venus and Rome, and a consider- (of which there were twenty) where-
ble part of one of the Side Walls, by each class of persons ascended
are tolerably perfect, and indicate to the Seats provided for them,
that the whole Edifice must have Seventy- six Entrances were appro-
been a chef'dcBuvre of architec- priated to the People; two were
ture. It was built after the de- for the Gladiators, and two for
signs of the Emperor Adrian ; the Emperor and his Suite : and
and the manner in which the Ceil- between the Arches numbered
ing of each Cella is ornamented XXXVIII and XXXIX, is sup-
resembles the style of the re- posed to have been the Entrance
maining Roofs of his Villa near from the Palace of Titus to the
Tivoli \ Amphitheatre. The shape of this
Colosseo. This vast and mag- Edifice is an oval, computed to be
nificent Structure is supposed to sixteen hundred and forty- one
have derived its name of Colis^eum Paris feet in circumference ; and
(A) The name of this Doable Temple seems dered the Gladiators to slay the Monk ; they
allnsive to the boasted descent of th« Ro- obeyed; bat he was canonised, and Honoriua
mans from J^iSneas, the Son of Venos. abolished the Shows.
(t) Gladiatorial Shows were exhibited in Combats of Gladiators were instituted
this Amphitheatre till the year 404 ; Ttrhen an A. U, G. 490.
eastern Monk, named Almachius, or Telema- (JC) So called because strewed with sand,
chns, rashed into the Arena, and endeavoured that the blood of the wounded juisht not
to separate the Combatants. The Praetor make the place sUppery.
Alypius, wlu) enjoyed these horrid sights, or-
142 BOMK. [Oh. YI.
one hundred and fifhr-ieyen in first of wUeh, light was adnitted
height : its Arena, likewise an by the exterior Arches, and, to the
ovu, is two hundred and eighty- last, by the Windows. The Ben-
five Paris feet in lengthy by one ches are supposed to have held
hundred and eightv-two in width ; eighty- seven thousand spectators ;
and surrounded with a Dwarf Wall, and the GaUeiy above them up«
sufficiently high to have protected ward of twenty thousand. Tne
the spectators from the wild» Attic Corridor was ornamented
beasts. The Arena has two En- with eighty columns of matble,
trances ; one opposite to the Tern- supporting a Terrace, whereon
pie of Venus and Rome, tiie other stood the workmen who had chai^
on the side of the Mons-Ccelius ; of the Velarium, or Awning, which
and near the latter Entrance is was stretched over the whole
a gigantic Buttress raised by Structure in case of rain, or eK-^
Pius VII, to prevent this part treme heat: and in the Wall of
of the structure from falling, this Attic Story are Square Holes
The materials of which it is supposed to have contained part
chiefly composed are immense of the apparatus for fixing the
blocks of b-avertino ^ originally Awning. In consequence of re*
fixed together with iron, or bronze cent excavations under the Arena,
cramps, now taken away"": and subterranean Walls and Passages
the time employed in building it is haye been discovered ; the former
supposed to have been about four apparently constructed during the
years. The Wall of the Arena middle ages ; and among the latter
had Doors in the form of Grates, is the spot where an unsuccessful
through which the Wild^beasts attempt was made to assassinate
and Gladiators entered: and im^* Commodus. Fragments of Go-
mediately above this Wail was the lumns. Sculpture, and Inscriptions,
Podium, or Balcony, for the Em* were likewise discovered ; and one
peror and his Family, the Vestals, of the Inscriptions signifies, that
Senators, and Magistrates entitled the Arena, Podium, Beaches, and
to curule chairs ; and behind these some of the Entrances, were re^
Seats rose others, for the several paired about the year 439 of the
classes of Citizens, each class hav- Christian era, by Lampadius, Pre-
ing its peculiar door, leading to its feet of Rome : and according to
Seats. These Benches for the another Inscriptioi^, repairs were
People were divided into three again made, about the year 480, in
parts, called Momiana, or Prtg^ consequence of damage done by
cinctioneSj and subdivided by small an earthquake. But the great
Steps, called Ct/net. the first part mischief this stupendous Edifice
contained twenty-four Benches ; sustained during the fourteenth
the second sixteen ; and the third, century, from Civil-war, so com-
(originally constructed with wood,) pletely ruined part of the exterior
ten only, besides the Gallery, ap- Wall which fronts the Church of
propriated to the Populace: but S. Gregorio, that the fallen and
this third division hkving taken loosened stones furnished ample
fire, was restored, in stone, by materials for building several large
Heliogabalus, and Alexander Se- palaces : and this purloining busi-
verus. Every Story of this Am- ness went on so prosperously, tiiat
phitheatre had a spacious circular if the Arena had not, at length,
covered Corridor ; to the three been consecrated to Christifim wor-
-
(0 Lapit Tyhurtinui^ a stone mack used in (m) The Cramps were fastened with iMlte^
large bimdiiigs at Rome. lead.
Oh,VL] BOMB. us
ship^ the. remaining Wfdls m^ all the Camioes, wer« titken from
probably have beeome the prey of the Arch of Trt^an.
stone-masons ^ Chiesa di S, Teodoro. Imme^
Near the Colosseum, toward the diately behind the Forum Roma-
Via Sqcra, are ruins of a Foun-< num, on the way to the Forum
tain, called the Meta Stidans, Boarium, and on the spot sup-
which supplied the persons who posed to have been the iiuperoalt
assisted at the Shows with water ; stands this small Rotondo, erected,
and might, perhaps, have been according to the -opinion of several
used in filling the Arena, for the antiquanes, on the Site of the an-*
Namuaohiae l&equently exhibited cient Temple of Romulus ; wMeh
there. stood in the Lupercal, where he
Arco di Co9ktntino, dedicated and Remus were discovered: and,
to that Emperor, by the Senate in confirmation of these opinionst
and People of Rome, in memory the bronze Wolf of Etruscan work-
of his victory over Maxentius at manship, now preserved in the
the Ponte Molle, This Arch stands Capitol* was fbund in this Tem*
at the junction of the Celian and pie. Moreover, it was customary
Palatine Hills, in the Vict-Appia; for the ancient Romans to cariy
and is the most splendid, because Sick Infants to the Temple of Ro«
the best-preserved Edifice of its mulus : and Sick Infants are now
kind remaining in Rome. It has, taken to the Church of S. Teodoro ;
on each side, four fluted Corin-i a circumstance which corroborates
thian Columns ; seven being gial- the opinion, that this Church was
lo antico, and one partly giallo erected on the ruins of the Temple
anticQ, and partly white marble : of Romulus : for ancient customs
and on the Pilasters, above these are still preserved at Rome, es-*
Columns, are Statues of Dacian pecially those which relate to reli<*
Warriors. The Po^W-n/t^t which gion. Dionysius of Halicamassu$
enrich the Frieze and represent reports, that the Arcadians erected
the Conquest of Verona, and the a Temple to Pan, on a part of the
Victory at the Ponte MoUe, to^* Palatine Hill, caJled the Lupercal»
f ether with the four Figures of near a Cavern and a Wood ; add-
ame, and the two MedaSions on ing, ^ When Romulus and Re-
the sides of the Arch, are proofs mus were committed to the Tiber,
of the decline or Sculpture under that river being much swoln, came
Constantine : the other Bcusi-ri^ up to the foot of the Palatine Hill,
lievi, two below the Great Ardade wnere the cradle which contained
excepted, (which were also done the devoted Infants was placed,
in the time of Constantine,) are When the water receded, the cra/-
finely worked, and supposed to die, being dashed against a large
have been taken firom the Arch of stone, was overturned ; and a Wolf
Trajan, which adorned his Fonmi. who lurked near, attracted by the
One of these, fronting the Coles- cries of the terrified Infants, came
seum, represents the Triumphal and licked off the mud with which
Entiy of Trs^an into Rome ; and they were covered, and likewise
another, on tne opposite side, re- suckled them ; till being disturbed
presents him in the act of offering by the approach of Shepherds,
the Sacrifice called Siuwetaurilia. she took refuge in a neignbour-
The Statues of Daciau Warriors, ing Wood, according to tradition
the Columns of giallo antico, and consecrated to Pan. In this Wood^
(•) Persons who wish to see the Colossettm bonring Guard-house for a Soldier to cooduct
by BMoiaight, should provide themselves with them up the Stairs, and through tHe v^orn-
lantems ; and likewise apply at the Beifh- dors, to the Attio Story.
144 ROME/ coil.' VI.
t^ras a Grotto, which (though the calla and Geta were represented
Wood no longer exists) may stiU sacrificing ; but the figure of the
be seen near the edifices of the latter was torn down by his bar-
Palatine, on the road to the Circus;, barous murderer, though the
and in the vicinity of the Grotto place it occupied may still be seen,
stands an jEdicula % where this The name of Geta, in the inscrip-
adventure is recorded in bronze, tion on the Arch, was likewise
The work appears very ancient, effaced by Caracalla. Adioining
and represents two Infants suckled to this Edifice is the Church of S.
hy a Wolf P." Perhaps, therefore, Giorgio in Velabro, supposed to
the JEdicula mentioned by Diony- stand on the Site of theBassilica
sius of Halicamassus might have of Sempronius '.
been the ancient Temple of Romu- Area di Giano Quadrif route:
lus ; and if so, its situation, as This is a Square Building, com-
described by him, accords with posed of immense blocks of white
that ofthe Church of S.Teodoro'*. Grecian marble; and was once
On the outside of the door of en- adorned with columns and statues,
trance to this Church stands a which have disappeared. It has
Pagan Altar. The Walls of the an Arch in the centre of every
Church are circular, perfect, and, front ; and the brick-work above
though ancient, not of very high the cornice is of modem date •.
antiquity. They exhibit within- The Edifice seems originally to
side three large Niches for Statues, have been either a Market-house,
The Roof is modem ; and the Tri- or an Exchange, of which there
buna displays a Mosaic of the were several in ancient Rome ; al-
eighth century ; at which period most every Forum was provided
Pope Adrian I. converted this with one of them, and they were
Edifice into a Christian Temple, called Jani,
Its interior may be seen every To the left of the Arch of Janus
Sunday morning, from eight o'clock Quadrifrons, at the end of a path
till ten ; and every Thursday mom- with Small Arches thrown over it,
ning, from seven o'clock till is a little Rill of peculiarly limpid
0ight. and excellent Water, which dis-
Arcodi Settimio Severo in Ve- charges itself into the C/oaca-Afar-
labro. This Arch, of the Compo- ima; and which ta-adition reports
site Order, was erected by the to be the Source of the Jutuma ;
Bankers and Tradesmen of the whence sprang a Lake of the same
Fomm Boarium, to Septimius nanfte ; in which Lake, Castor and
Sevems, his Consort, Julia, and Pollux are said to have watered
their Sons, Caracalla and Geta. their horses after the battie at the
On one side of this Arch is a Bos- Locus Regillus.
so-rilievoy which represents Sep- Cloaca-Mamma, Just beyond
timius Severus and Julia sacrifi- the aforesaid little Rill of Water is
cing ; and on tfie other side Cara- the great Arch of the Cloaca-Max-
(o) JEdicul<B were small edifices, each of ners of their ancestors,
which contained an altar ; many of them may (r) There were in the Velabrum, bet^idea the
still be seen in Magna Graecia : they resem- Forum Boarium (where stood the celebrated
ble modern oratories. Statue of a Cow, by Myron\ the Forum Olito-
(p) The precise words are, "A Wolf pre- rium, and the Jorum Piscatorium. The
senting her teats to the Twins." Temple of Janus, built by Numa, was like-
Livy confirms the statement of Bionysius o' wise in this quarter ; and stood, according to
Halicamassus. — See T. Liv.,l/t&«rl. Livy, at the lower , end of the street culed
(9) Venuti asserts that the little Temple of Argiletum.
Jlomulus was long preserved in its original 0) It was added hv the Fran^ipani family,
state of simplicity ; by way of calling to the when they converted this Building into n
remembrance of the Eom«ui9 the simple man< small Fortress.
Ch. VIJ ROME,
145
tma, consfaructed, by Tarquinius this as it may, the Edifice in
Priscus, with rude and enormous question was originally an ancient
stones, hewn from the Tarpeian Temple ; because part of the Cella,
Rock, and placed on each other, built with large blocks of traver-
so as to form, without any cement, tino, and eight Columns of the
this stupendous Subterranean Cor- exterior Peristyle, still remain,
ridor, one of the most surprising Seven of these Columns may be
and>useful public works of ancient discovered in the Wajfls of the
Rome*. Its height "and breadth Church; and one in the Sacristy:
"were the same, about eighteen They are white marble fluted, and
Roman architectural palmi : it of the Composite Order, with Ca-
entered the Tiber between the Pow* pitals so finely worked, that pro-
Senatorius and the still existing bably they were executed long after
Temple of Vesta ; and its Mouth the construction of the Temple,
may be seen when the river is Pope Adrian I rebuilt this Edifice,
low'. The Cloaca-Maccima com- in the year 728 ; and from being
municated with several, compara- overcharged with ornaments, it
tively speaking, small Common received the name of S\ Maria in
Sewers ; all of which were united Cosmedin . Its Portico contains
in the Forum Romanum, and dis- an ugly ancient Mask, probably the
charged their contents into the Mouth of a Fountain; but (in
Cloaca-Maonma. These Cloacce consequence of an idea, once pre-
were extended, and completed, by valent among the populace, that
Tarauinius Superbus. oracles issued from it) called 5occa
Cniesa di S«. Maria in Cosme^ della verith *. The Church is
din. This Edifice, which stands paved witii Porphyry and other
in the Forum Boarium, is sup- precious marbles: the High-altar
posed, by some authors, to have is made of red Egyptian granite,
been the Temple of Pudicitia, or and appears to have been anciently
Chastity ; from which Plebeians a Sarcophagus. The Tribuna con-
S ere excluded": but Dionysius of tains an Ancient Pontifical Chair ;
!alicamassus says, " that Servius and the Columns which support
TuUius erected a Temple to For- the Nave are antic^ue. Giovanni-
tune in the Forum Boarium, and Mario Crescimbem, the first Cus-
another to Fortuna Virilis, on the tode of Arcadia, was buried in
banks of the Tiber": and as the last this Church; his Monument is
named building is similar in form near the great door,
to that called the Temple of Ptidi- Tempio di Vesta, now Chiesa di
citia Patricia^ perhaps they might fif". Maria del Sole. When this
both have been erected about the Temple was erected is uncertain ;
same time, and both consecrated but its elegant Greek architectiire
to Fortune by Tullius. But, be proves it of much later date than
(0 Dionysiua of Hallcaniassus, when Maxima, were continually cleansed by streams
speakingof the Oloacae made by Tarquinius of water resembling rivers.
Priscus, says ; "The work is admirable ; and (tj) It is sometimes practicable to enter
in my opinion Rome has nothing more magni' the Cloaca-Maxima in a small boat.
ficent — ^nothing which better proves her gran- («) Virginia, though of noble birth, was
deur, than the Aqueducts, Paved Roads, and excluded from this Temple, because she had
Common Sewers." And Pliny says, that the married the Consul Volnmnins, a Plebeian ;
Cioacn, or Common Sewers, were the most and in consequence of that circumstance she
wonderful of the public works at Rome ; erected, at her own home, in Vico Longo^ the
beine cut through hills, and under the very Temole of Pudicitia Plebeia.
foundations of the City; and moreover so ^ (u;) An expression which signifies, in Greek,
spacious that a car loaded with hay might Covered with ornaments,
pass through them. Common Sewers were (x) Some antiquaries suppose this Mask
invented by the Romans. The smaller Cloacas, to represent' Jupiter, into whose mouth per.
irhich aU communicated with the Cloaca- sons, who were to make oath before a judge,
pnt their hand.
U6 ROMK. t(fti.Yii
m
•iitiy other relics df antiquity in from their beautlM propottidtts,-
the Forum Boarium. Doiiiitian to have beeh added to the Building
in said to have repaired this Edi- at a period vrhen architecture haa
fice ' which is ornamented with attained a high degree of perfec-
nineteen beautiful Corinthian Co- tion at Rome. The ornaments Of
lumns, fluted, and of Parian mar- the Entablatm-e, though injured
ble : they rest on a Ch'cular Flight by time, are still visible,
of Steps, and fomi a Ch"ct3ar Near the Palatine, or Senatorian
Portico round a Cella likewise Bridge, now called Ponte-Botto,
Circular y; the Wall of which is are remains of an Edifice denOmi-^
composed of blocks of Parian nated The House of Pilate, but
marble : and so exquisitely are really that of Nicholas Crescens,
these materials joined, that they supposed to have been the Son of
appear to be only one piece. The Pope John X\
ancient Roof was Bronze ; but " Palazzo de" Cesari, • On the
that, together with the cornice and Mons-PalatinuSy where RomiiluaJ
frieze, and one of the columns, founded Rome, Augustus began,
(for originally there were twenty,) Tiberius and Caligula continued,
can no longer be found *. and Domitian finished, the splen-
Tempio delta Fortuna Virile, did Palace of her Emperors |
now Cniem di 8<^. Maria Egiziaca, which, like a small city, coverea
Servius Tullius, in gratitude for the Hill. The shape of this Pa*
his extraordinary elevation from a lace (nearly a parallelogram) may
slave to a monarch, erected this still be traced ; and rums of one
Edifice : and Dionysius of Hali- half, called Domus Augtisfana, are
camassus relates, that the Temple discoverable in the Tigna Pala-
of Fortuna Virilis was burnt, not tina% and the Gardens belonging
long after the death of Tullius, to the Convent of S. Bonaventura.
and rebuilt in its original form * and the English College ; and
and that the Statue of the King, ruins of the other half, called
placed during his reign in this Domus Tiberiana, are equally dis«
Temple, though made of wood coverable in the Orti Farnesiani,
rilt, remained uninjured amidst TTie Front of the Palace and Prin*
the flames. Dionysius also says, cipal Entrance seem to have been
it was seen in tne Teipple, and toward the Via Sacra : and to
highly venerated by the Romans, render the ascent to this Entrance
in riis time. The body of the Tem- easy, there were Steps, probably
pie is built with peperino *, (the extending in a semi-circular form,
stone of which nearly all the most before the Portico ; and so made,
ancient edifices of Rome were com- tiiat quadrupeds and carriages
posed;) the Portico is built with might mount them*. Between
travertino ; and in order, perhaps, these two buildings ^^^ere the Gar-
to conceal the injuries produced dens of Adonis,' terminated at the
by the aforesaid conflagration, a end, near the Circus Maximus, by
coat of fine stucco embdlishes the a Theatre. On each side of the
Exterior Walls and elegant fluted Gardens was a Hippodrome ; and
tonic Columns; which last appear, the Claudian Aqueduct (somd
(y) The Temples of Vesta were always Tribune of Rome in 1047, and was rebuilt by
orbicular, perhaps in allusion to the sun. him.
(s) This, and another Temple of Vesta, are (c) This Domain, formerly called the Villa-
mentioned by Horace, as existing at Rome in Spada, now belongs to an Soglish Gentleman,
his days. who has convert^ it into a delightful resi-
(a) Lapis Albanus^ a volcanic production, dence.
found'near the Lake of Albano. (d) These steps were sucli as the modem
(h) This house became afterwards the pro- Romans ciJl $cala a cordonata,
perty of the celebrated Nioolo di Rieuza,
Cli.VI.] ROME. 14f.
Arches of which may still be seen by fire, in the year 64, he repah«d
in tiie Gardens of S. Bonaventura) the Ihmus Augu9t(ma ; and added
was brought over the Celian HiU^ to it his celebrated Domus cturM,
to supply the Palace with water, or Golden House, which is sup-
The Temple of Apollo, erected by posed to have extended from on«
Au^stus after the Victory of extremity to the other of the
Actium, stood on the Palatine Hill Celian Iiill< Suetonius says, ** To
near the Domits Attgustana, and give an idea of the extent aad
is ' supposed to have been a Ro- beauty of this edifice, it Is sufi-
tondo % with an open circular cient to mention, that in its VmH--
Portico, placed in a Court, adorned bulum^ was placed his colossal
with a Peristyle. Statues of the statue, one hundred and twenty feet
fifty Daughters of Danaus siu*- in height. It had a triple nortico,
rounded the Portico ; and, opposite supported by a thousand columns ;
to them, were Equestrian Statues with a lake, like a little sea, sur-
of their Husbands. Contiguous rounded by buildings which resem-
to this Temple stood the Greek bled cities. It contained fields,
and Latin Libraries of Atmistus; vineyards, pasture ground, and
and on the side of the HiU to- groves, in which were all deserip-
waxd the Forum, under Caligula*s tions of animals, both wild and
Bridge, which joined the Palace tame. Its interior shone with gold.
to thie Capitol, appears to have gems, and mother-of-pearl. In the
been the site of the Temple of vaulted roofs of the eating rooms
A\:^stus, which was destroyed were machines of ivory, which
by ^re. During the year 1820, turned round, asid, from pipes,
accident discovered, in the Famese scattered flowers and perftimes on
Oardens, a ma^ficent Hall, two the guests. The principal banquet-
hundred pahni m length, and one ing hall was a rotondo, so con-
hundred andtiiirty-two in breadth, sleeted that it turned round nieht
Antiquaries euppose it to have and dayjk in imitation of the motios
been built by DomiUan: it was of the earth'. The baths were sup*
rieh^ ornamented witii statues, plied from the sea, and the sul-*
columns of giallo antioo, and otlier phureous waters of Albulfle*; and
precious marbles ; and behind it when Nero, after having dedicated
•are Baihs, slill in tolerably good this fairy palace, took up his abode
preservation^. But immense and there, his only observation was,
superb as was the first-built Pa» Now I shall begin to live ^e a
laee of Ihe Csesars, Nero, (whose man K^ Under the CampanUe of
extravagance, and whose passion the Church of fl. John and 8. Paul,
fbr architecture had no hmits,)* and extending toward the Cdosseo,
though il much too small £br him : are remains of a noble Portieo, sup*
he, therefore, extended its edifices posed to have belonged to the Do-
and gardens from the Palatine mue Aurea; and loundations of
Hill to the Esquiline: and after other buildings, which probacy
thedestructionof the whole fabric belonged to it likewise, may be
(e) Perhapg in allusion to the snn. experience (roro x«ballding it Id S tf^piOJNf
(jT) The Temple of the ^^oddess Viriplac* manner,
illkewise stood on the Palatine HiU. When a (A) The VestihfUvm was Che Coort l>eloQ|;-
dispute arose between husband and wife, ing to the Edifice.
they repaired to this Temple ; and after reca- Qt) A.ud probajblj to pxeneut the beaios pf
pitulating their grievances to ^e goddess, the sun from entering it.
.were reconciled. (ft) These waters, Wliich, acoordwg to
(a) Rome, when Nero acceded to the Sin- Strabo, were several aprings coUeotad toge-
plre, was extremely iU buUt j and it is sup* ther, had the repatatiw, in ancient ttrnm, m
Sosed that his chief inducement for burnii^ poasessing xA^ixj medical yixtaeOf
own the City was the pleasure he hoped to (0 See jAfe of Nero, e. 31.
If 2
148 ROME> ICh.yi.
traced the whole way from the contains two small subterraneati
Vigna Palatina to the Esquiline apartments, commonly called the
Hul. Baths of Lima ; in which, by the
In order to see every thing now aid of torches, remains may be dis*
remaining of the Palace of the Cse- covered of beautiful arabesques,
sars, the best mode is to drive nearly and a considerable quantity of ^dr
up to the Arch of Titus ; then tium- ing, bright as if just done. Here
ing to the right, and a little way also are small Bassi-rilievi in
on,, is a Gate, which opens into the stucco. Beyond the Baths of Li«
Orti Famesiani ; where : not far via is a dilapidated Villa of modem
distant from the entrance, are steps, date, ornamented with frescos, pro-
which lead to three small, dilapi- bably by Raphaers scholars <" : and,
dated Modem Edifices: one of from a Terrace here, the view of
these, surmounted by a Turret, con-. Rome and its environs is magnifi*
tains Frescos in bad repair ; and, cent. In that part of the Garden
further on, is the spot where the which fronts the Capitol are a con"
Arcadian Academy originally aS- siderable number of Subterranean
sembled", amidst ever-green oaks, Buildings, some of which resemble
wood-laurels, and Fragments of the the Sette Salle, belonging to the
Entablature, Frieze, Cornice, and Baths of Titus, and might proba-^
Capitals of Columns, which seem bly, like them, have served as re*
to have once belonged to the Tem- servoirs for water. This Garden
pie of Apollo built by Augustus : also contains ruins of the Theatre
for among the decorations of the built by Caligula, and a spacious
Frieze and Cornice are Gryphons Hall, the Roof of which is well
and Tridents interlaced with Dol- preserved.
phins, symbols of a naval trimnph ; On quitting the Orti Famesiani.
and moreover Gryphons were con- and continuing to ascend the Pala-i^
secrated to Apollo. These finely- tine Hill, we find, on the left, the
executed Fragments are now over- Church of S. Bonaventura; and,
grown by the acanthus ; which on the right, a Gate-way, leading
flourishes here so luxuriantly, that to tiie Vigna Palatina ; where, on
one might fancy it planted on pur- the Site of part of the Domus Auf
pose to point out the source of Co- gustana, stands a Modern Edifice,
rinthian architectural ornaments, called ViUa-Palatina p. The Por-
Here lies neglected, on the grass, tico of this Villa is ornamented with
the original Medallion of the arms Frescos, all of which, except one
of Arcadia, the Syrinx of Pan en- representing Venus, and attributed
circled with pine "^ and laurel ; which to Raphael, are by Giulio Romano ;
Medallion once adorned the place who has painted on the Ceiling,
of meeting. This Garden hkewise two small Pictures, representing
Cm) The Arcadian Academy, one of the most the great embellisher of almost every land-
celebrated existing, and to -which most of the scape in Italy and Magna Onecia, being con-
Frinces and Literati of Europe belong, was sidered throughont these countries as *' King
founded in the year 1690, and warmly patron- of forests all," the Head of Silvanus, like the
ised by Christina of Sweden, and the literary Arms of Arcadia, is represented as encircled
Characters of her time. Its members, at the with its leaves.
commencement of the institution, met in the (o) Among the Frescos are two Medallions,
Famese Garden; afterwards at the Bosco Par- representing the Story of Hercules and Cacus.
rasio on the Janiculum Hill; and latterly in The Cave of this famous Robber, according to
an apartment belonging to the house of their the fable, stood between the Tiber and the
Custode Generale: but Leo XII has now fitted Temple of Hercules ; now, according to some
up, for their use, the Protomoteca in the Capi- opinions, the Church of S. Alexius, on the
t(U : thus assembling t(^ether the persons of Aventine Hill.
most exalted birth, station, and talents, at the (p) The Casino of the Villa not long since
present day, with the Busts of those who shed possessed by the Spada family, and^ already
the brightest lustre on times past. mentioned as belonging to an £n^lish Gea<
(») The rovnd-topped Maritime Stone Pine, tieman.
Ch.yi.i Rome:. ' 149
Hercules, someoftheMusesr, and interspersed with ever-green oaks,
other heathen divinities. The Gar- laurels, flowering shrubs, aloes,
den of the Villa contains three and Indian fi^ ; forming altose^-
ancient Subtenranean Apartments', ther a most picturesque and un-
beautiful in point of architecture, pressive scene. One part of these
and well preserved : they seem on- Ruins completely overlooks the
ginally to have been ornamented Circus Maxunus, which lies imme-
with Arabesques, judging from the diately below it : and here is ar
remains now distinguishable : and Terrace, probably the Site of the
here, according to report, was Banqueting Hall whence Caligula,
found the superb Basin of red por* on being roused from sleep by the
phyry which adorns the Circular clamours of the populace, who
Mall in the Vatican Museum ">. wete impatient for the signal to
Beyond these subterranean apart* commence the Games ', ordered
ments, and quite at the end of the the Gladiators to clear the Circus :
Garden, is the spot where, accord* in consequence of which rash and
ing to some opinions, the signal cruel order multitudes were killed,
for commencing the Games in the The ancient Pavement of tiie Ter-
Circus Maximus was given. To race still remains entire ; and from
the left of this spot is a Large this spot the continuation of tiie
Oblong Court, supposed to have Claudian Aqueduct, l^ ^e Empe-
beeu a Hippodrome ; and on one rors, may be seen to great advan*
side of it are ruins of a Building tage. Fra^ents of Ancient Paint-
which appears to have been a ings are discoverable tluroughout
Temple, or ^dictda, and remains all the ruins of the Imperii Pa-
of another Edifice, the Ceiling of lace : and though Obhvion has
which is decorated with Medal- nowsweptaway a larger portion of
lions in Stucco. Beyond the lat- this enormous pile than of any
ter, and near the Circus Maximus, other gigantic edifice constructed
are magnificent Arches ; which by the ancient Romans, it was in-
seem to have formed an Apart- habited, during the seventh cen-
ment shaped like the libraries of tury, by the Emperor Heraclius,
modem days, though more exten- and tolerably well preserved for a
sive, and by some persons sup- hundred years after that period,
posed to be remains of the Libra- . Circus Maximus, In the vale
ries of Au^stus. between the Palatine and Aventine
On leaving the Vigna Palatina, Hills, Romulus instituted Games
it is customary to go back to the in honour of Neptunus-Equestris ;
Arch of Titus, passing that of supposed to have been called, by
Constantine, and, when nearl3rpa- iheKomsms^Consuales, or Consus;
rallel with the church of S. Gre- and therefore (it is presumed) these
Sorio sul Monte- Ceho, turning to Games were denominated Consu^
le right, toward the Forum Boa- alia ; though how far Consus and
rium ; near which is a door leading, Neptunus-Equestris were synony-
by a Narrow Flight of Steps, to mous seems uncertain. Consus pre-
what is now called th^ Palazzo de' sided over councils ; and his altars
Cesari, Here are considerable were placed in cells underground,
vestiges of stately Porticos, spaci- to shew that councils ought to be
ous Halls, and numberless Arches, secret and inviolable* During the
(q) IfthisporpliTry Basin, which seems to recentl;r disoovered ia the Pahlic Baths at
have bebnsred to a fountain, was discoyercd Pompeii. .^j.j .*
here, these Subterranean Apartments may (r) The Emperor, or ^J^p*^*'.!*^^®^^*
probably have been Baths ; for a basin simUar the Shows, gaye the sijnal to ^fil^^J?^^^
m shape, ud MoBging to » fountftin, WM il»g up % naptom caltod JfwPO ^trccntu. ,
no ROME* [Oh,YL
of tiiAie Gf«aiM> the constraetedby1!krqtiiiwisBriseafi;
jftodiaivi sifted the Sabiue Wo* and from time to time the wh(de
men : and some histomiis tell us £diftce was so much enlarged and
that, is memory of this event, a. embeUished, that it at length be-*
fiubteirratiean AJtaj* was erected to came worthy pf the grandeur of
Consus» on or near a spot subse- Rome. Julius Cs&sar added to its
qtiendy otJled the Oireus Maxi- size; and made the Ettripm^ or
cnus ; and £urther» that the Altar Canal, already mentioned ; which
was disinterred ^vious to every he supplied with water fitmi the
jestival held in nis honour, that rivulet Crabra, or Marana, run-
fiacrij&ces might be o&red to him $ ning between iha Aventine Hill and
after which it was immediately the Palatine : and, according to
reburied*. According to Dionvvius Pliny, the Circos, afiter Caesar's
I9f Haiica^tmssus, Tait^Luinius Pris^ augmentations, was three stadia
xnis was the finst person who gave long^ one stadium broad, and ca^-
a decided shape to the Circus pable of containing two hundred
Maximits, by suirounding it with lEind^ty thousand spectators. Ihe
Covered Seats : for befoa% his time £mx>eror Claudius rebuilt the Cor-
fthe spectators stood on scaffolds ceres with marble ; ornamented the
bdd up by beasts. Dionysius lake- Jf«£^with gilding; and assigned
wise says; "This circus has, at places for tiiue Senators ; v^o, till
the two sides and one end, a Ca- then, appear to have mixed pro-
aai tea feet 4eep, and as many miscuously with the People. Sue-
brood, eoconq^sed with three sto* ceeding irinces repaired and en-
ries of open Porticos; the lowest larged this Cipcus ; and,accordmg
iMiHt of stone, the others of wtwd: to Victor, it held in the reign
aad tike two side Porticos being of Constantine thiee hundred and
joined to that at the ixmer end, e^hty thousand s^ed:ators. Its
tvhsdi is shaped 'like a half moon, form was <^^ng, with one ex-
the wiiole presents tlte appeaianee tremity isemircircular, the other
of an Amphitheatre; and is eapa«- somewhat curred. In the centra
l^ of i^ontainHig an hundred and of tiiw seoainsircular Wall was tt»
fifty thowEMad persons. At the pnsdpal Entrance^ fronting tlw
opposite, or smaili enoU ^are the C&rveres ; and nearly, thou^ not
Carceres, resemfohi^ «K»des, quite in the middle of the Arema
whence the houses start; and these was a long narrow platform, sup-
Osrcaar^a are «o contrived that tih^y ported by dwaif walls, and oaOed
aM open at the samemesment* The the Spina'^i at each extremity of
ontssie of the Circus Is suironndei which stood a Meta or Goal The
by a FoitiQO^*' Tarquiai»s Su.- Spina was <oonsider&biy raised
perbms fid^iied the covered seats abovie the level of the ^r^ma^ aad
(sfe) Diifu^Qft «f H«lloamissfis diUs th« theirltoTsestthdinaliBswitbitowera, ttDdneref
CWnoJMi a iestival >a honoSr of Coasns; allowed them to work» -a cieeumfttaBce wltick
which consisted uf horse-races, with, and seems to prove that this festival was instituted
w^hout, riders ; libatiotis poftTedtm^e { IMid in honour of Neptu'ntui--£(iue9trb.
qaterifioes offered on a snbteavaneain altar sear (f) Supposed to have contained 8h<^.
the Circus Maximus, in a place hollowed out («) The Spina was rather nearer to the
otpressly for the purpose, lie adds'; "Con- left side ctf l^e Circus than to the right ; he-
^89, BCcorAing; to «onie>o|muoiis, mecnw ^&^ csqm, as die homes and diariots ran first
tuae ; bat aocordiag to othMs, though the down the Tight side, it was necessary, in the
horse-races were instituted in honour <a ITep- commencement of the course, to have a large
tune, the subterranean altar was erected space, that they might the more easily pass
afterwards, 'to a god, or tutelary goaias, who each otlier^ But after they had passed the
presided over secret designs, but whose name furthest Meta to return t» the Caromet^ Tomtf
it'Wfts deetaed irrevefteUt to pronounee." !Dio- ctf the ofaariots were left so far behind that n
njAiis likewise twei^eiOBS th&t, duving Hie fes- l^ss space to run in was safiiei6nt.-^See X«-
tival ^ the (hnmil^ tbe lU)«nii« <ffOfni«d mtsbzitu ^JtoHqmHes 4ff Uom^
C*,VJ.] ROJPS, 151
e^bjtsd Alt4r8|3ti^es, and Ob^- Fiescos on the Ceiling, by Gi|ido ;
liskSp Qands of music likewise and four Saints inc/mro scuro, by
Qcqupi^d the Spina during the the same master. The second
Games'. Augustu^f placed here Chapel contains two celebrated
the stately Obelisk which now Frescos; the one painted by Do-
adoms the Piazza del Popolo ; and menichino, the other by Guido, in
Constantius, the son of Constan- order to prove which was the
tjne, likewise placed here that still better artist. That by Domeni-
more lofW monument of Egyptian chino represents the Flagellation
art, the Obelisk which now stands of S. Andrew f ! that by Guido
in a mutilated, state before the -nepresents the same Saint going
Church of S. Giovanni in Laterano. to^uffer Martyrdom I ! The figures
Although this Circus was originally- of S. Peter and 8. Paul, near
made for horse and chariot races, the Altar, are by Guido. The
it was likewise used as a theatre third Chapel contains a Statue of
for foot races, wrestling, boxing, S. Gregorio, begun by .Michael
combats with wild-beasts, and Angelo, and finished by Cordieri.
other exercises calculated to make This Garden commands a beauti-
warriors of the Roman youth: and ful view of the Palace of the Cae-
tradition reports that in this Circus sars ^.
^Jidrocles, or Androdus^ being ex- Terme di Tito, These Baths,
posed to fight with wild-beasts, which, not many years since, were
was recognised by a lion from completely choked up with rubbish
whose paw he had some time before and vegetable earth, apparently
extracted a thorn J and who, instead thrown in to destroy them, are
of tearing his antagonist to pieces, npw open to tiie %ht of day ; and
fawned npon him, and licked his exhibit beautiful frescos in as per-
hands. The shape of the Circu? feet preservation as they could
Ma^imus may still be traced, as have been when first produced by
9iay the A^tm CraJbra : and the the artist's pencil near two thou-
houses and other buildines at t^e sand years ago. The Romans
foot of the Palatine Hm, o^ the learnt the use of baths firom the
side of the Forum Boarium, are Greeks ; and thojugh, at first, em-
ail erected on ruins of the Corri- ployed merely for the purposes of
dors and Arches of the Circus, ojr negdth, they, in time, oecame ai^
the Tabemce "^ with which the Cir- Object of luxury and magnificence,
cus formed a street. The Baths of Titus were smadler
Chiesa di S, .Gregorio sul than those of Dioclesian and Ca-
Monte-Ceiio, said to be built on racalla ; but superior in point of
the foundations of a Patrician architecture, and more elegantly
house, and to retain it^ ancient ornamented: 'the lower part of the
shape *. Tliis Church is finely si- Edifice served for bathing ; the
tuaied; and in the adjoining Gar- upper part for academies and
den are three Chapels, built by gymnastic exercises. Communi-
S. Gregorio. The first, dedicatea eating with the Baths are ruins
to his Mother, S». Silvia, contain? called the Palace of Titus ; where
her Statue, by Niccolo Cor(fieri; the Group of Laocoon and his
(ti) Bionysltts of Bafieamasstis mentions («) The road to tbe Gelian Hill, from the
tins ciicumatance^ and also says, that in eha- side opposite to the Palatine, is supposed to
^t Traces, somedme? one horse only wa$ l>e the ancient Clivtts Scauri.
put to each car, sometimes two, sometimes CsO ^7 entering the quadrangle, and ring^
four, and occasionally three ; according to thfe ing a bell on the ngh't, admittance may Alwa]Fv
pcacticepf ancient warnonsof Greece. l>e .obtained to the Church and Chapels of b.
(tp) The Tnhernai qonsis.ted chiefly of trjidet- Gregorio : they are, during wmter. damp and
mens* shops. cold.
152 ROME. [Ch.VI.
Children was found : and, not far other Stairs, leading to the an-
hence, the Belvedere-Meleager, or, cient subterranean Church, which
according to Visconti, Mercury, is apart of the Baths, called those
was found likewise. Near this spot of Titus, and famous for being
were the Gardens of Mecaenas ; the spot where Pope S. Silvestro
in a buUdittg belonging to which held a council, assisted by Con-
Nero stood to see Rome in flames : stantine and his Mother. The
and near this spot were the houses Mosaic Pavement, and matted Roof
of Horace and Virgil. The Baths of the Baths (on which perhaps
of Titus are damp. were paintings,) still remain per-
To the east of the Palace and feet, as do the Walls : and here
Baths of Titus, and enclosed with- no very damp air is encountered ;
in a Garden are nine immense Re- therefore Invalids may go down
servoirs, called Sette Salle, which with safety. . . , 4
evidently belonged to the Baths, Chiesa di S, Pietro in Vincoli. f '
and are tolerably well preserved. This fine Church, which owes its /
They probably derive their appella- present form to Antonio Sangallo, x
tion from the ancient name of the has a double cupola, like S. Pe-
spot where they are situated, which ter's. The three aisles are divided
was Septisolium, by twenty magnificent Roman-Do-
Chiesa di S. Martino in Monte, ric Columns of Grecian marble.
This beautiful Church, not far taken from Dioclesian*s Baths : the
distant from the Sette Salle, is circular Wall behind the High-
erected upon that part of the altar made a part of Titus's Baths,
Baths of Titus which was added whence the Pavement of the Sa-
by Domitian and Trajan : such, cristy likewise was taken. Here
at least, seems to be the opinion is a Picture of S*. Margherita, by
of antiquaries ; because the brick- Guercino. Here also is the Mo-
work in these Baths is very infe- nument of Julius II, designed by
rior to that in the Baths built by Michael Angelo, who died soon
Titus. after he had finished the much-ad-
The modern Edifice is adorned mired Figure of Moses ; in conse-
with twenty-four magnificent Co- quence of which the other Figures
lumns, brought from Adrian's were done by Montelupo. The
Villa at Tivoli. The Vase for Monuments of Cardinals Margotti
holy water is ancient. The High- and Agucci were executed after
altar is peculiarly rich in pre- the designs of Domenichino ; and
cious marbles ; the Paintings, at the end of the Tribuna is an
which adorn its vicinity, were done Ancient Pontifical Chair in high
by Antonio Cavalluccio, who lies preservation. The Sacristy con-
buried here. The side aisles are tains a Picture, by Domenichino,
embellished with Landscapes, by of S. Peter delivered from Prison. a
Gasparo Poussin ; the Figures in Chiesa di 5". Maria della Na- I
which arebyNiccolo Poussin; and vicella, so called from the model ^
the upper Landscapes are remark- of an Ancient Galley, said to have
ably well preserved. The Chapel been a votive offering, and placed
of the Madonna, at the end of the before it by Leo X. This Church,
left side aisle, is ornamented with designed by Raphael, and sup-
Paintings by Cavalluccio, and very posed to stand on the site of the
fine marbles. The Steps leading ancient Castra Peregrina, or Bar-
down to the Burial-place under racks for auxiliary soldiers, is em-
the High- altar, and the Burial- bellished witiii fine Columns of Por-
. place itself, were designed by phyry and Granite, and a Frieze
Pietro di Cortona ; and here are beautifully painted in chiaro scuro.
, J
Ch.VI.] ROME. 153
W Giulio Romano and Piexino del seventy-four Paris feet ; and the
Vaga. The Presbytery, likewise. Pedestal he computes to be twenty-
was painted by the same artists; five.
as were two Altar-pieces of the . To record the exploits of heroes,
. Chax)els, one representing part of and to adorn their temples and
the Transfiguration, the other the their tombs, seems to have been the
Baptism of om: Saviour. origin of Egyptian obeUsks : and
y Near this spot is the Arch of the most of those which now ornament
r^ Consul Dolabella, over which Nero Rome are engraved with hierogly-
erected an Aqueduct, to supply his phics*; which, could we understand
Golden House with water. them well, might throw important
Chiesa di S. Stefano' RotondOj light on the history of past ages,
formerly the Temple of Claudius'. Statues, and Obelisk, in the
This beautiful and interesting Edi- Piazza di Monte- Cavallo ; so
fice was built by Agrippina, m ho- called, fi-om the admirable sculp-
nour of her husband Claudius ; de- ture with which it is embelUshed :
stroyed by Nero, and rebuilt by namely, two Colossal Figures, sup-
Vespasian ; which accounts for the posed to represent Castor and Pol-
Columns not being uniform. It lux, each holding a Horse. These
seems to have had two entrances. Twin-gods, the works of Phidias
The interior part still retains the and Iraxiteles, are esteemed the
precise form, together with all the finest things of their description at
majesty of an ancient Temple ; and Rome ; especially that done by
is embellished with a double row Phidias. They once adorned
of Columns, fifty- eight in number, Athens ; and are generally sup-
and chiefly granite. It has a mo- posed to have been brought to
dem roo^ was converted into a Rome, from Alexandria, by Con-
Christian Church by Pope S. Sim- stantine, in whose Baths they were
plicius, and is, diuing winter, damp found; though some authors tell
and cold '. us they were sent to Nero, as a
Obelisk of the Piazza del Popolo. present, from Tiridates, kin^ of Ar-
This Obelisk, which is charged menia. The Horses are ill exe-
with Hieroglyphics, and generally cuted, and chiefly modem. The
supposed to have been made at Obelisk, which stands between the
Heliopolis 522 years before the Statues, was erected by Pius VI :
^Christian era, was brought to it is composed of red granite ; mea-
Rome by Augustus ; found in the sures forty-five Paris feet, without
Circus Maximus; and placed in the pedestal ; and originally adom-
its present situation by Sixtus V. ed the Mausoleum of Augustus *».
Its height, fi-om the ground to the Chiesa di S, Bernardo. This
top of the Cross, is one hundred Edifice, the ancient form and roof
and twelve English feet : and, ac- of which are quite perfect, merits
cording to some opinions, it was notice, as belonging to Dioclesian^s
executed by order of Psammeti- Baths. Some persons suppose it
chus, an Egyptian monarch, who to have been a Caldarium bal*
died 617 years before the Christian neum, or hot bath ; but the more
era. Its height, exclusive of the general opinion is, that this Ro-
Pedestal, is, according to Vasi, tondo, and the one opposite to it,
(x) Persons who question whether this was, and the Sacristan of the latter may be found
or was not, the Temple of Claudius, should daily, at the new Academy of S. Lutce.
consult Frontinus, J)e Aquaductib«s,&rt. 76, (p) The circular Basin belonging to the
p. 145, ed. Poleni, 1722. 4to. Fountain of Monte-Cavallo is said to be the
• (a) The churches of La Navicella, and S. largest piece of granite, of this description, m
6tefano Rotondo, are generally shut : but the Rome.
Sacristan of the fonaer Ures in the yicinity';
m iioMiSf toil. VI*
now ierving as a public granaiy, owQsite t^ the Theatridium 9^d
near the ViUa-Neg^oni, were Tern- Bmiothecs ; the 4podytmurn$ Pf
pies dedicated to Apollo and ^Es- Great JIall, where Qie bathers un-^
culapius. The convent and gar- dressed an4 dressed themselves^
4en of the monks of S. Bernardo,* was in the centre of the Baths,
the church, convent, and garden of which seem to have consisted of
the Carthusians^ the public grana- eight apartments ; four being on
ries, together with a large space, one side of the Apodyterium, and
called Piazza di Termini, a cor- four on the other : the first, in each
ruption of the word Thermcp^ ail row, was the Fri^elarium, or Cold
likewise belon^ng to Dioclesian's Bath ; the second the Tepidarium^
Baths ; which Building seems to or Tepid Bath ; the third the Col-
have been of the Corinthian Order, darium, ox Hot Bath; and thft
and nearly of a square form, en- fourth the Laconicum, or Vapour
closing Halls, where youths were Bath, The Baths communicated
instructed, and where men of learn- with each other; and under the
ing assembled to rea4 their compo- Apodyterium were flues, to fceep it
sifions; an Open Theatre, where in a proper degree of heat. In thij
Shows were exhibited in fine centre of the Baths likewise wa§
weather ' ; the Naiatio ; the SphcB" the Hypocaustum, or Great Stove ;
risterium; \heXystum; the Apo- whence hot water yy^as conveyed, in
dyterium ; the Hypocamtum ; and pipes, and hot air, in flues, to tii^
the different BaJhs, namely, the different chambers : and this part
Frigidarium, Tepidarium, Ualda- of the Building, which is still pre-
riumt and LacQmcum, Three sides served, serves as an Atrium to thQ
ofthe^a/a^tb, where persons swam Carthusian Church, The Conis-
in the open air, were bound-* *^mwm, containing sand with which
ed by Porticos, (it occupied what the Wrestlers were rubbed, after
is now the Cloister of the Carthu- being anointed with <»!, and th§
sians ;) on each side of these Por- Elceothesium, a shop furnished
ticos were BasUiccB and Dit^ttB^ with oils, ointments, and perfumes,
where public assemblies were held, for the use of the Bathers, wera
and sumptuous entertainments probably near the Hypocaustum:
given : adjoining to these apartr and at each extremity of the
ments was an Oolong Court, pro- Xystum was a Cavcediumy or Ope^
bably the place for playing at Court, surrounded with Porticos^
ball*^; and, immediately behind the Jn the yilla-Negroni are remains
Natatio, was the Xystum* ^ where of the Great Reservoir for water:
the Gladiators and Wrestlers exhi- and encompassing the exterior of
bited in bad weather : this is now the Baths were walks shaded witi
jttie Church of §•. Maria degli plane-trees',
Angeli. The Baths, properly so Chiesa di S*, Maria degli An- / .
named, extended in a straight hne geli. Pius IV dedicated Diocle-
(c) Considerable remains of this Theatri- called from being staffed with hair : ^e Fol-
dimm may be seen in a <rardea fonaerly be- lis^ so called from being made of a blad-
loogtng to the Gonrent of £. Bernardo; h\U der ; and with this, old men and chikM-«B
now left to a Calico-printer; whose ^oor of played: the Paganica, a ball staffed with
entrance is opposite to the Charch of S«. Maria feathers; which derived its name from vil-
degli Angeli. Between this TJweatre and the |«ges, where it waa ^iefly seap : 9^ t^h/a Tri-
Temples were buildinn which might, perhaps, goncUigt an appellation common to the Pila
have contained the Ulpian Library, remove^ and FoUiSy and allusive to the form of .the
hither from Trajan's Forum. tennis-courts where these balls were used.
(tf) The ancient Romans played with serial (je) The Xystwn is supnosed to have served
kinds of balls ; namely, the Marpastumt or foot- occasionally as a Pinacotneca.
ball, which, being placed between two compa- (/) T^e expense of bathing in a public batli
nles of young men, they strove who should |it Ropie was equivalent to about one hl^f-
driveit through the others' goal: the A7a,80 penny /o/ an i^^t', but, for a child, no;-
cft, F13 aoiCE. m
man'A B«ih0 ta' sntated uses ,^ be- Giardmo di SuUmio. Beyond /
cause the Christian« who built the .Church of S*. Maria Vittoria, .
them sufiPa-ed martyrdom: and pn the way to the Porta-Pia, the
Michael Angelo> who was employ- secoud Garden-door to the left,
ed to erect the Church, finding^, (which is seldom locked,) leads to
among the ruins of these Baths, an the once magnificent Town-house,
immense apartment, supported by .Circus, and Villa Suburbana ' (k
/Stupendous Columns of orientu the Roman Historian, Sallust : the
^anite, (the Xystum already men- two former having been constructed
tioned,) formed it into the presenEt on the QuirinaL Hill, the last hav-
Church of S*. Maria degli AngeU, ing occupi^ the space between the
The entrance to this majestic £di- Porta-Ssdara and the Porta- Pin-
fi^, which may vie with S. Peter's ciana*; which space, now occu-
in beauty, was a CoUdarium be- pied by the Lodovisi, and other
longi]3^ to the Baths, and contains villas, was not enclosed within the
the Monuments of Carlo Maratta walls of Rome till Am^ian ex-
and Salvator Rosa. The Church tended its boundaries, Antiquar
itself is in the shape of a Greek ries suppose these two Domains
^ross ; its length being, from the of Sallust were in course of tim^
Entrance to the High-adtar, three united ; and both, during the reign
hundjped and thirty-six Paris feet ; of Honorius, A.D. 409, feU a prey
its transversal Nave (supposed to to Alaric ; who (entering Rome
have been the Xy$tum) th^e hun- by the Porta-Salara) laid waste
dred and eigMy feet long, by me Gardens, and fired all the
seventy-four wide, and eighty-four Buildings they contained. About
hig^ ; and its ancient Columns' the twentieth year of the Christian
already mentioned, each formed era, and after tlie death of Sallust,
ont a a single block of Granite, his Villa Suburbana became the
sixte^ feet in carcumfearence, sjod {property at the Roman Emperors ;
Capitals and Bases inclusive, iofrij- and Aurelian enriched it with a
t^ree feet hish. The Pavement is Hippodrome, vestiges of wliich may
beautiful^ and contains a celebrated be tra<>ed at the Villa- Cesi. The
Meridian by Monsignore Bian* Terrace of the Casino-Barberini
diinL Near the High- altar is a (nearly o^>osite to the Garden-
Picture;, by Csiio Maratta, of the door) commands a magnificent
Baptism of onr Saviour, much in* view; and from this s^ot part of
jured by time ; and another of the Servius Tullius's Woul may be
Martyrdom of S. Sebastian, by distinctly seen: it is built with
Domenichino, in good preserva- peper^o, and supports an Agger,
tion ! ! This Church also contains or broad Platform of earth, on the
a fine Picture of the fall of Simon opposite side of which there evi-
Magits, W Porapeio Baitoni ; and di^ly was a deep trench : and this
another of S. Peter raising Tabitha, Wall extends from the foot of the
by Placido Costanza. Casino to the end of the enclo-
Tke Pope's Oil-Celkir, ^ear S'. sin-e near the Church of S». Maria
Maria degli Augeli, merits notice, Vittoria. The Terrace probably i
«8 it is a wdl preserved pai?t of was the site of the Mansion in
Moclesian's Baths. - which Sallust resided ; and beyond
thin;- Tin xidi baA their persons rubbed f^radnally, before 4ie reached the Jlpodpte-
with oils »nd oiBtancents of great value. Hot wimm.
J^iitin wero enly used St a stated hour of the (^) The villas immediatelj wtthovt, and
tOKSODg. Eaeh man stopped at die hath which near to the city- walla, were caUed Suburbana,
he judged proper fer himsetf : and if he made tn epposition to these »t a di^n°B.
use irf tiie Lacomeum, J»e iwtirawd fhroogk (Aj) See ILtmis»Bai»» ^»*i«w««' <?r iw«e.
the diffeMrt teft bath«$ waSimm tinis vvm •
166 ROME. [CIi.VI»
this spot, toward the Porta-Pia, Baxberini, is a Path which presents
is a green uncultivated Hillock, a good view of the Circus: its
near the site of the ancient Porta- form may be clearly- traced ; and
Collina, and supposed to be the part of its Spina, once adorned
Campus ScderatuSy where Vestals with the Obelisk now erected be-
who broke their vows were en- fore the Church of Trinitat de'
tombed alive. The Hillock is with- Monti, is still discoverable^ A
in the ancient Agger, or boundarv Path on the left leads round the
of tiie City; and possibly the Vault base of the Casino to a Small
in which the polluted Vestals were Door, the entrance to Sallttafs Re-
entombed may still exist*. To the servoir of Water, with which his
left of the Hillock, on the descent grounds were irrigated ; and hence
toward the Circus of Sallust, is a a Path to the right leads up to the
ifefflW^o/jRwtn*, probably belonging Terrace.
to his Mansion, which seems to Another part of Sallust*s Do-
have extended from the Casino- main (which is entered at a Gate
Barberini to this spot. Below numbered " 2," in the Vicolo delle
these Ruins is a Path on the left, Fiamme,) contains, on the right of
which leads to a Temple, supposed the gate, a small Dwelling, under
to have been dedicated to Venus- which itoo ancient Mosaic Pave^
Erycina^, The Walls and Roof m^ents are discoverable, together
are perfect ; the Vestibule has two with what appear to have been Hot
Niches for statues ; the Temple, Baths, -and a Furnace for heating
its Cella excepted, is circular, with water ; and to the left of this
six Niches for statues. The en- Dwellingis a long range "of vault-
trance to the Cella has two large ed Apartments, resembling Baths
Niches for statues, and what ap- and Keservoirs.
pear to have been two small Niches : Some of the finest sculpture ex-
the Cella contains one large Niche tant was found in the Gardens of
for the statue of the goddess ; and Sallust.
the Door through which the Obelisk of S, Maria Maggiore^
Priests seem to have entered this This Obelisk is of red Egyptian
Cella communicates witii dark Granite; and forty-three reet in
Vaulted Passages, probaUy built height, without the Pedestal: it
for their use. Beyond the Temple, was brought to Rome by the Em-
and leading toward the Casino- peror Claudius ; and served as one
(x) pionysias of Halicarnassus gives tbe Porta^oUina. It had probably been de-
They
Goddess ; where every person of Doth sexes pie in question answers to the place where
may enter during the day; but no person of the Temple of Venus-Erjrcina seems to have
the male sex during the ni)(ht. The Vestals stood : and that there was a Temple of Venns
are ten years learning to execute their sacred in the Domain of Sallust appears certain, from
functions, ten years acting as Priestesses, and inscriptions published by Gruter. — See Lu<
ten years more teaching the young Vestals ; misdkk.
after which period (thirty years in all) they (l) SaUnst could not have placed this Obe-
are at liberty to resign their crowns and lisk on the Hpxna of his Circus : because he
marry ; very few, however, do this. A Vestal died six years before Egypt was conquered by
who breaks ner TOWS is stripped of her crown, Augustus; and consequentiy before anyobe-
fillets, and other holy ornaments, scourged, lisk was brought to Rome. It might hare
and then placed on a smitU couch, and fol- been erected by Claudius, or Aurelian. — See
lowed by her relatives to the Porta-CoUina ; Lumisden.
where, on arriving, she is clad in a funeral (m) Persons who wish to visit these Ruins
garb and entombed alive, in a subterranean immediately after having seen that part of
chamber, close to tbe City-wall, but within Sallust's grounds which contains his Circns,
it*" should, on retnmbg through the Garden-gate
(Jk) After the loss of the battle of Thrasy- near the Church of S*. Maria Vittoria, pasa
menus; the Romans vowed a Temple to Venus- that C%uroh« and tben go down the street on
Erycina, and bnilt it on the outside of the the light to the Viodo delle Fiumae.
Ch. VI.J ROME. 157
of the onmments to the Mauso- culiarly rich in maibles, paint-
. leum of Au^stus ; whence it was ings, and sc^ture. On the right
taken, by Sixtus V, and placed in stands the Tomb of the Pon-
its present situation. tiff, surmounted by his Statue:
Column im the Piazza di 5f*. here, likewise, are Statues of S.
Maria Maggiore. This Corinthian Basil and David, by Niccolo Cor-
fluted Column, of Parian marble, dieri; and the Tomb and Statue of
was (as already mentioned) taken Clement VIII ; with Statues of
from the Temple of Peace. Aaron and S. Bernardo, by Cor*
Basilica diS\ Maria Maggiore'^. dieri of Lorrain. The Pamtins^
This Church, which stands on the between the windows, and on the
summit of the Esquiline Hill, was arches above the tombs, are by
erected upon the foundations of an GuidoII The Altar of the Ma-,
ancient temple of Juno-Lucina, donna is magnificently decorated
about the year 352 ; and afterwards with oriental jasper, agate, and
enlarged by Sixtus III. It was lapis lazuli ; and on its Entabla-
likewise repaired by Benedict XIV; ture is a ^e Basso-rilievo. The
who found, about eight palms be- Frescos above, and round the Al-
low the pavement of uie Church, a tar, and in the vault and angles of
black and white Mosaic Marble the Cupola, are by the Cav. d'Ar-
Pavement, of that kind invented by pino. The Sforza-Chapel was de-
Alexander Severus °. The Nave signed by Michael An^elo. This
is supported by antique Ionic Co- Basilica is so loaded with gilding
lumns, thirty- six of which are and other ornaments, that it re-
white marble, and four granite, sembles a place of public diversion
The BaJdacchino is supported by more than a Christian temple,
antique Columns of Porphyry. The Obelisk of S. Oiovanni in Late'
arch which separates tihie Choir rano. This obelisk, covered with
from the Nave is decorated with Hieroglyphics, is the largest at
Mosaics of the fifth century. The Rome ; and supposed to have been
Chapel of Sixtus V, bmlt after the even more lofty once, than it is at
designs of Fontana, is encrusted present. It was originally placed
with fine marbles, and adorned in the Temple of the Sun, at
with Corinthian Pilasters, Bassi- Thebes, by Ramises, King of Egypt,
rilieviy and Paintings. On the transported to Rome by the Son of
ri^ht stand theTomb and Statue of Constantine, and erected, in its
Sixtus V : in the middle is the present situation, by Sixtus V: its
Altar of tlie Holy Sacrament, en- height, without base or pedestal,
riched with a magnificent Taber- is one hundred and fifteen English
nacle, supported by four Angels of feet, and its diameter nine p.
bronze gilt; and on the left, the Baitisterlo di Costantino. This
Tomb of Pius V. Among the Edifice was built by Constantine,
Paintings those most admired are, and repaired by Gregory XIII, and
the Annunciation, by Pompeio Bat- Urban VIII : its form is octagon ;
toni, and the Holy Family, by and three steps lead down to the
Agostino Masucci. The Bor^hese- Font, which appears to have been
Chapel, built by Paul V, is pe- an ancient Sarcophagus. The
{n) 9eyeral of these ancient Courts of Jus- the inventor. Mosaics, however, seem to have
tice, called Basilicce^ were converted into been originally invented by the Persians ;
charches, and still retain their original appel- for they were used in Persia during the reign
lation; probably because ancient churches Of Artaxerzes; thence carried into Assyria,
were sometimes provided with tribunals. thence to Greece, and, some ages after, to
BasilicsB are usually open from sunrise till Rome. . . ^ .
sunset (») According to Vasi, its height is only
(o) The Mosaic Pavements of the middle ninety-niac Farw feet, without base or pedes-
>ge« were called Opm Alemmdrinum, from tal.
15d ROME. tCtVL
Dome ia supported by fine Por- sion of our Saviour into Hearen t
phyry Columns, with an antique The Tabernacle, forttied of pre-
fentablature ; and contains Paint- * cious marbles, is placed between
ings representing the Life of S. two Angels of bronze gilt, and
John Baptist, by Andrea Sacchi. four Columns of verde antique.
Other Pamtings, on the Walls, re- At the top of the centre aisle,
present the Vision of Constantine ; near the high-altar, are two su-
Ms battle with Maxentius; and perb Columns of red granite;
the Destruction of the Idols; which and, near the door leading to the
last is by Carlo Maratta. In one Baptistery, two fluted Columns of
of the Chapels are two curious Giallo Antico, considered as the
fluted Pillars of Verde antique ; in finest specimens extant of that mar-
the other, two columns of Oriental ble. In this Church are the Tombs
of the Cav. d' Aipino, Andrea Sao-
Alabaster- and the original en-
trance to this Baptistery is adom-
chi, and Boniface VIII ; the last
ed with two noble Pillars of Por- of which is ornamented with a
phyry and an antique entabla- Fresco, supposed to have been
ture. done by Giotto, and representing
Basilica dt S, Giovanni in Late- Boniface, between two Cardinals,
rano\ This stately Edifice was publishing the first Jubilee of the
erected by Constantine ; and called Holy Year, in 1300. The Corsini-
the Mother Church of Rome ; Chapel (to the left of the great
though the Church of S. Martin door) is particularly elegant ; and
and S. Luke is really so. Un- was erected by Clement XII, in
der the great Portico is a semi-, honour of his ancestor S. Andrea
colossal Statue of Constantine, Corsini. Over the Altar, between
found in his Baths ; the Front of two verde antique Columns, is a
the Building, toward the Naples- Portrait, in Mosaic, beautifully co-
fate, is beautiful ; and the Bronze- pied from a Painting by Guido, of
oor, ornamented with Bassi-ri- S. Andrea Corsini. On one side
lievi, was (according to general of the Chapel is the Monument of
belief) taken fi-om the Temple of Clement Xll; said to have been
Saturn. The interior of the Church once the Tomb of Agrippa : it was
is divided, by four rows of pilas- taken fi^m the Pantheon ; and is,
ters, into one large and four small in point of shape, the most beau-
aisles ; and the centre aisle, or tiful Sarcophagus extant. On the
nave, is adorned with Statues of opposite side, stands the Tomb of
the Apostles; among which are Cardinal Neri Corsini. In this
Saints Thomas and Bartholomew, Chapel, likewise, are four Statues,
by LeGros; and S. Andrew, S. representing the four Cardinal Vir-
James minor, and S. John, by tues ; one of which. Fortitude, is
Rusconi. The Pavement is Mo- by Rusconi, and much admired ;
saic. The Altar of the Holy Sa- as are the four Bassi-riiievi in the
crament is adorned with four mag- upper part of the Chapel. Tlie
nificent fluted Columns of bronze lavement is beautiful ; and the
ffftt, supposed to have l)een taken Subterranean Part of this Building
from the Temple of Jupiter Capi- merits notice ; as it is simple and
tolinus; and, above these co- u)propriate, and contains a fine
lumns, is a Fresco, by tiie Cav. Pieta. In the Sacristy of S. Gio-
d* Arpino, representing the Ascen- vanni in Laterano is an Annun-
(q) The name of Laterano is supposed to been confiscated, _j>robably remained in {km-
be aerived from Plawtius Latenwus, Coosal session of the Cfmpeiors tiU Constantine
elect, wbo ei^agad with Seneca and others gave it to the Churcn, and biiilt the Baailies
in the ereat conspiracy against Nero, and of S. QiovaiuUi properly thtf Pope*8 Cathe-
thereby lost bis life : hence his palace, haying dral.
€K. ^n.]
ROMfii
IS*
/ .
6ift1ioii, desired, if Hot executed*
by Michael Angelo.
Scala Santa. This Edifice is
celebrated for containing twenty-
eight steps of white marble, re-
puted to hAve belonged to the
Palace of Pilate 1 they were co-
vered with planks of wood, by
order of Clement XII, to prevent
their being worn out by the multi-
tudes of persons who ascend them
On their knees.
Not far hence is an Arch, or
Tribune, adorned with Mosaics,
originally placed in the Triclinium,
or eating room of the palace of S.
Leo, to perpetuate the event of
his having crowned Charlemagne
Emperor of the west.
AnfiteatroCastrmse. This Build-
ing now makes part of Aureli-
an*s Wall repairei by Honorius ;
though it formeriy stood on
the outside of the City: it was
called Amphitheatrum Castrense,
because appropriated to military
games, and combats between sol-
diers and wild'-beasts. The inte-
rior of the Building may be seen
in a Grarden on the ri^t of the
Church of S'. Croce in Gerusa-
lemme ; nothing, however, remains,
except a few Arches. The exte-
rior part, which was ornamented
with two rows of columns, should
be viewed firom the outside of the
Naples-gate.
Basilica di Santa Crode in Oe-
rusalemme. This Church, one of
the seven BnsiliccB of Rome, was
erected by Constintine near an
ancient Sessorium; which seems
to have been converted into the
entrance of the Church ; and
Makes a magidficent Vestibule.
The approach from S. Giovanni
in Laterano to S*. Croce in G«ru-
salemme, is particularly handsome ;
and displays fine remains of the
dncient Walls of Rome : the
Church derives its name from
part of the Cross which 6. ftelenA
brought from Jerusalem, anddepo*
sited here. On each side of the great
door is a Vase for holy water,
very Similar to those in the Cathe*
dral at Siena ; and, like them,
containing Marble Fishes beauti-
fully executed. The Nave is sup-
ported by eight fine Columns of
Egyptian ^anite ; and its Ceiling
adorned with a Fresco by Conrad
Giaquinto ; who likewise painted
that part of the Ceiling of the
IVibima which is over the High-
altar: the other part was done
by Pinturicchio, and represents
the finding of the Cross. The
High-altar is adorned with four
rare Columns of breccia corallina,
and an ancient Sarcophagus of
basalt. The Pavement of the
Church is antique. This Edifice
contains the Subterranean Chapel
of S. Helena, decorated with curi-
ous ancient Mosaics, and an In-
scription in her honour.
On the right, coming out of the
Church, (in a Garden,) are consi-
derable remains of a Building,
called the Temple of Ventus and
Cupid; but, more probably, one
of the Halls, or Temples, which
adorned the Baths of S. Helena.
This Garden likewise exhibits
magnificent remains of the Ctau-
dian Aqueduct ; and, not far hence,
was an Altar consecrated to Evil
Pbrtune.
Chiesa di S". Sibiana '. Here
are eight antique Columns ; and
a fine antique Sarcophagus of ori-
ental alabaster, with a leopard's
head in the centre : and here, like-
wise, is a celebrated Statue of S*.
Bibiana, by Bernini.
Tempio di Minerva » Medica.
This picturesque ruin stands on
the Esquiline Hill, in a Garden,
the door of which is generally
open. TTie Edifice is round with-
out, but decagon within ; and
(r) It is difieolt to fain admission to tiria Clkarch, unless it be yery earl/
in the moning.
160 • . • JIOME* • [Ch.yT.
seems to have had ten windows and rtiin of a Casiellum of one of these
nine niches for statues. Here was Aqueducts,
found a celebrated Statue of Mi- Ckiesa di S, Prassede, The
nerva with the Serpent at her feet. High-altar of this ancient Edi«
which Statue now enriches the iice is adorned with a handsome
Vatican Museum ; but whether Baldacchino, supported by four
this Edifice was, or was not, a line Colunms of Porphyry; the
Temple dedicated to Minerva- Tiibuna contains ancient Mo-
Medica, seems uncertain ; though sales ; and leadinj^ to it are mag^
Rufiis, and Victor, place her Tem- nificent Steps of Rosso Antico,
pie on the Esqvdline Hill. Judg- composed of the largest .blocks
mg, however, by the Statues of extant of that rare marble, the
iEsculapius, Pomona, Adonis, Fauns of the Capitol and- Vatican
Venus, Hercules, Antinous, and excepted. In this Church is a
the Faun, foimd here, this Build- Column, supposed to be that our
ing must have been decorated with Saviour was fastened to, when
peculiar magnificence. scourged. In the Sacristy is a
. Between the Temple and the Painting of the Fla^llation, by
Porta Ma^ore, in the same Gar- Giulio Romano ; and in one of the
den,is?iUofumbariumconstrucied Chapels are tln*ee Paintings re-
ly Lucius Aruntius, (who was lative to the Life of S. Carlo
Consul under Augustus,) as a Borromeo, by an English painter,
receptacle for the asnes of himself, named Sterne : they are well ex-
his relatives, and freedmen. It ecuted, and dated 1741. This
consists of two small Subterranean Church leads to the Catacombs.
Chambers ; in one of which are Campidoglio; The Hill, ori- /
Niches, (shaped like pigeon-holes,) ginally called Mons-Satumiits, and
for cinerary urns ; and on the afterwards Tarpeius, from Tarpeia, '
Roof of the other are remains of who admitted the Sabines into
Stucco Ornaments, and Paintings, the fortress erected there, was.
Contiguous to Ihis, is a Colum- according to tradition, likewise
barium^ which consists of one denominated Capitolium, because
Subterranean Chamber only ; sup- when Tarquin the elder ordered
posed to have been a public re- the foundations of a temple of
ceptacle for the ashes of the Jupiter to be laid on this spot.
Plebeian Dead ; which were the workmen, while digging, found
consigned to common earthen- a human skull : in consequence of
ware urns, simply inscribed with which, the augurs predicted that
a name, and an exclamation of Rome wotdd become mistress of
sorrow. the world. But although the
Arco di Gallieno, commonly whole Hill was called Capitolintts,
called Arco di S, Vito. Accord- Livy distinguishes the Arx, or
ing to the Inscription on this Citadel, from the Capitolium,
Arch, it was erected in honour The former stood on the eminence
of the Emperor whose name it toward the Tiber; the latter on
bears. It is Doric ; and proves the eminence toward the Quirinal ;
the decline of architecture in the and between these was Romulus*s
days of Gallienus. Common Asylum for criminals of
Remains of five Aqueducts are various denominations,
discoverable in this Quarter of the When we recollect the number
Cihr ; namely, the Mardan, Te- of splendid edifices which adorned
pufan, Julian, Claudicm, and the the ancient Capitol, we are led to
Anio-novus ; and near the Church think its extent must have been
of S, Eusebio is a considerable immense : but when we view the
Ch;Vt] AOMfe 161
spot, and see how circumscribed Senate, Consuls, and Emperors of
it is» we can only account for the Rome. It appears that several
number of its temples by conclud- steps led up to this Edifice ; which
ing that here, as in various parts Nuxlini places on the eminence
of the City, one was frequently where now stands the Chmxsh of
destroyed to make room for ano- 4he Ara Coeli ; and the temple of
then Scipio Nasica surrounded Jupiter Feretrius he supposes to
the Square of the ancient Capitol have stood behind the Palazzo de^
with Porticos ; and in its centre Conservatori. Donatus, however,
45tood the Triumphal Arch of Nero, precisely reverses the manner of
The most ancient Temple was that placing them : his opinion is con-
of Jupiter Feretrius •, built by firmed by Fabretti ; who thinks
Romulus ; and its interior dimen- he discovered the foundations of
sions are reported to have been the Temple of Jupiter CapitoHnus
only ten Pans feet in length, and when the CafPerelli family levelled
five in breadth. Dionysius of Ha- the ground between their Palazzo
licamassus says, ** Romulus, after and that of the Conservatori : and«
his first triumph, erected a Tem- jud^ng from the report of Dio-
ple on the summit ^f the Capito- nysius of Halicamassus, we have
line Hill, in honour of Jupiter reason to conclude that the Tem«
Feretrius ; and, judging by the pie of Jupiter Feretrius certainly
present remains, this Duilding was was raised by Romulus on that
diminutive ; the greatest extent of eminence where Donatus places it.
its walls being less than fifteen Moreover, the Temple of Jupiter
feet/* The temple of Jupiter Ca- Capitolinus is said to have oeen
pitolinus, finished by Tarquinius well preserved during the reign of
Superbus, and afterwards conse- Honorius; and not entirely de^
crated by the Consul Horatius stroyed till the eleventh centuiy;
Pulvillus, was much larger ; and therefore we may suppose its
when consumed by lightning, massive foundations to have been
which happened more than once, so far perfect when the Caffe«
. seems to have encreased in ma^-» relli family levelled the ground^
nitude every time it rose from its that Fabretti, knowing from an-*
ashes. The last person who re^ cient historians the dimensions of
built this Temple was Domitian, the Temple in question, and the
and he is said to have expended manner in which its foundations
twelve thousand talents merely in were laid, was likely to form an
gilding it. Here were deposited accurate judgement as to whether
the spoils of conquered nations, he had or nad not discovered them ^
^as offerings to the gods from the Some antiquaries, however, main-
(0 THe word Feretriutt is supposed, by of Victory, which is said to have weighed
Dionysius of Ualicftrnassas, to signify, above three hundred and twenty^ight pounds.
alt. Lnmisden supposes we have an elevation of
(if) Dion]r8ius of Halicamassus, when men- the Portico of the Temple of Jupiter Capito-
tioning this Temple, says; " It was erected linus preserved in one of the Basxi-rilievi of
to Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva, on a rugged Marcus Aurelius's Triumphal Arch, which
j)art of the Capitoline Hill, made capable to Bauo-rilxevo is now placed in the Wall of the
■nstainitsfoundationsby means of high walls* Staircase of the Palazzo de' Conservatori.
and an extensive terrace.** He likewise Lumisden likewise mentions that in the wall
speaks of its size as immense; and so does of the Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus, on the
Livy. The Edifice consisted of three Temples ; side next to Minerva's altar, the chief magis-
tbat in the centre being dedicated to Jupiter, trate of Rome drove a nail annually on the
that on the right to Minerva, and that on the Ides of September; whereby they reckoned
left to Juno. Statues of these divinities, re- the Years of the State according to the nam-
S resented as sitting on chairs, were placed in ber of nails; and he adds that the Roman
eir respective Temples, and originally made peasants long continued to reckon their own
of potters' clay ; but Trajan exchanged them and their chiidrens* ages by driving naiis mtqr
for statues of gold : and here likewise, in th« the walls of their cottages.
dayi of th« Emperors, wai a Golden Statue
M
162 ROME. [Cl|.yi.
tain that this Edifice stood on the gustus. On the same tine like*
north side of the CapitoUne HilU wise are Statues of the two Sons
near the Temple of Juipiter Fere- of Constantine, together with two
trius. Here also were the Tern- Roman Milestones ; that num-
ples of Jupiter-Moneta, Fortutoa* bered " I," and standing on the
Primo - genita, Fortuna » Privataf right, being the Column which an*
Fortuna - Viscola, Vejovis, Isis, ciently marked the first mile of the
Serapis, &c., embellished by sta- Via-Appia; that on the left mo*
tues iwithout and within ; so that dem. In the centre of the Square
the Capitol was denominated The is a Bronze Equestrian Statue^
Hall of the Gods ». But of these once gilt, of Marcus Aurelius ' ///
magnificent edifices scarce a wreck This is the only antique Bronze
remains; therefore the modem Equestrian Statue extant, except
Capitol bears no resemblance to Fragments found at Pompeii,
the ancient. The present Steps Fronting the Steps is the Senator^s
and Two Side Buildings of the Palace, which stands on the ruins
latter were planned by Michael of the TahtUarium"', or Reposi*
Angelo, at the command of Paul tory for the Tables of the Laws :
III ; and the Front of the Senator's and under the Entrance-door is
Mansion was likewise rebuilt afler a Statue of Rome triumphant, in
the design of Michael Angelo. At Parian marble draped with pel:-
the bottom of the Steps are two phyry, a recumbent Statue of the
Lionesses in basalt, of Egyptian Nile, and anoth^ of the Tiber,
workmanship ; and on the left side both in Greek marble. On the
two Arches under which are lai^e south side of the Square is the
stones, supposed to have made Palazzo de' Conservatori ; and on
part of the Foundation of the the north the Museo Capitolino.
Temple of Jupiter Feretrius. On Beyond the former are Steps which
the top of the Steps are two Co- lead up to the spot where, accord-
lossal Statues, reputed to be Greek ing to Donatus, and Fabretti,
sculpture ; but more probably Ro-* stood the Temple of Jupiter Ca-
man : one represents Castor, and pitolmus ; near which in a Garii
the other Pollux, with their re- den, belon^g to a house num*?
spective Horses. On a line with bered 139, is mat part of the Tar->
these Statues are beautifully ex- peian roek whence, it is supposed,
ecuted Trophies, called those of criminals were thrown down into
Harius ; but rathar supposed to the Forum \ The Garden fronts
have been done in honour of Tra- CaraeaUa's Baths ; and the Rock,
jan's victories over the Dacians. in this place, may, perhaps, be
They once adorned a Castellum of sixty feet hi^h at the present mo^
the Julian Aqueduct, and Pira- ment ; and formerly it must evi-
nesi calls them Trophies of Au- dently have been much more ; as
(«) It appears, from IHonysius of Halicar* Temple of Jupiter Capitolinaii, and likewiM
nasstis, that the Camtoline Hill also abounded in the Atrium JAhertatit^ (which seemg t»
ftrith JEdictd^, eacn of. which contained an have stood on the Aventine HiU,) yet the j
Altar raised to some Divinity, or protecting had a particular Building for that purposAi
l^enius: but these Edifices were not conse- called, in consequence, Tahvlarium. Th«
crated like Temples. laws of Numa were engraved on TaUee<^
(v) It was found near the Scala Santa, on Oak, colnmns of bran not being then in use*
the spot where the house of his grandfather, See Lumisdbn's Anti<nAtiet ^R4me,
Anniug Verus, is said to have stood. Wino< {x) Dionysius of Halicamassus records that
kelmann supposes the Statue of the Horse to Casitins, condemned for conspiring against
be more ancient than that of the Emperor, the State in the twenty-third year after th9
and particularly praises the Head of the expulsion of its Kings, was thrown down, ia
^orse. presence of the People, £rom IJm Rock ovei-
(jwS Although the Romans placed mainr of looking tk9 Fonia*
the Tables of their Laws in the Portico of the ~
/
/.-
Ch. VI.^ ROME. 163
tiie level of the Fonim is fiiA rupted intd Aracoelk The' Choir,
twenty feet h^^ now, than it behind the High-ahar, contains &
was originally. Besides whioh» Picture foy Raj^mel, of the Holy
large masses of the uppo* part of Family, which was iiMured, ana
the Tarpeian Rock hlave repeatedly has been ill restored. The Chapd
fallen down, as Livy and other of S. FranceiNM) is finely pitintad
writers record. The neighbouring by Trevisani : and here likewise is
I)oor, numbered 141 » leads to a 4 Chapel painted by Pintwicchio,
Gaixien where the Bjock may b^ und Lucca Signorelu.
«een to more advantage than at Ckiesa 4i S. Pialro in QatMf^ /
No. 139 ; and immediately uncter w, more pr(^[)erly, OMmw tk iSL '-"'
wMch are Caves: one of these Oiuseppe. On die ri^t, ^ng
has, in its roof, an Aperture, down from tiie Capitohne Hill td
^rmed like a large dumney ; it this Church, aire Large Stones be-
seems to have extended to the longing to the T<xMm4$im; part
summit of the B.ock ; and may, of the Doric Portico of which may
perhaps, have been the ftmnel of be se^ fronting the Porum. Un*
one of the Subterraneous Depo* der the Church is a Prison, built
%itories, called Fdt)t>«<^, where the by Ancus Ktartius, and called if
Bexsred Statues of the Capitol^ Varcene Mamertino^ it is of am
when injured by time, or accintent, oMong shape, about twenty-fiv^
^wev^ interred ; because it was Paris feet in length, e^teen wida^
deemed eacrilegious to destroy and thirteen high. To this, Ser»
4hem ^ ^us TulHus added a Lower Dun^
CM^m Ai S'. MaHad^Aracodi, geon, (called alter him, the TwtttV
^supposed to stand o«, or near, the anum,) for great otienders ; wheiH
site of the Temple of Jupiter Fe^ S. Peter suffered imprisonment 5
retritis. The Steps leading up to iawi where, near a Small Columik
this Chureh from the side of the to which the Apostle waa bound,
Campus Martins are an hundred is a Spring of Water, repiorted to
and twenty-fbur in number ; and have issued forth miraculouaiy^
4he marble of which th^ are com- that he might baptize the twd
posed was taken chiefly from the gaol^s, and forty-seven of his
Temple of Jupiter-QuMrinus, oA fellow prisonan, all of whom
the Quirinal Hill. The interior of afterwards suffa^ martyrdom,
the ^ificc is supportjedby twenty- In the vaulted Roof of each fti*
two antique Columns, chiefly son is an Aperture sudbient^
composed of Egyptian granite; large for a mwi to pass througl^
^nd file third Column on Ihe left it : and criminals are supposed to
(entering by the great door) bears have been let down and drawn up
this Inscription : " A Cvincvlo through this aperture by means of
Avgustftrwn"'*, It is said that, cords*; no ancient staircase be^-
AiSustus, about the time of our ing discovwahle; though eadi
- Saviour's birth, erected near this dungeon is accessible by means ef
spot an A.ltar, under ti» name of modem stairs. Th« Tul^imum k
Am Primogeniti Dei, now cor^ about six Paris feet m height, a»il
(v^ In order to see these Caves, go from we know that the Cloaca-Maxima was con-
the Korawi Romanura toward the Piazza deUa structed with stoneB hewn from the Tarpeian
CoosolasioBe ; and, at the end of the Pia»za, Rock ; and hkewxee that «tonM of a Mnuteir
t«rn to the riifht, op Via di Monte-Capriiio; descr^ptKWi were e»pioyed la other *uiMuifp.
and, enter at the top of the street, au Arch- till peperinoc^nue into use.
way, which leads to the Cave«; where the ^(*) The 0«6tc«/an. were «*^" ^. «!?
ApirtBre abov^mentioned may be diBCorcwd. bed-cliaiB^er baoiwng 2 ^^J^JJJ^jJJfn'^^^
These Caves, however, seam too extensive to (a) A Prison, w^t»»/»"?^^^¥rKaui tto
iave been nothing more than Favissa ; per- roof may be seen, under the Tribunal, m xiu»
164 ROME. tCh.VI.
not above eighteen in diameter. On . the * Staircase, opposite to
Large volcanic stones put toge- these rooms, are four Bassi-ri^
ther without cement, compose this lievi, which originally belonged to
terrific prison ; which, like that the Triumphal Arch of Marcus
above it, is quite perfect, and well Aurelius, on the Corso ; here
worth seeing ; though cold and likewise is a BcLsso-rilievo^ (found
damp. in the Forum,) of Ourtius devoting
Palazzo del Senatore di Roma, himself to the Dii manes ; and, on.
The view from the Tower which the Landing-place, are two more
crowns this Building particularly Bassi-rilievi, taken from the Arch
merits notice ; as it exhibits all the of -Aurelius.
ancient Edifices of the City, and On this Landing- Place is a
shews their respective situations. Door which leads to the Apart-
Palazzo de" Conservatori. In ments not open to the Public, but
the Quadrangle, beyond the Ar- which the Custode is happy to
cade, are Statues of Rome tri- shew for a trifling gratuity,
umphant, and the weeping Pro- The first room contains Paint-
vince ! — ^two Dacian Krags, and ings, by the Cav. d'Arpino ; name-
two Egyptian Divinities, idl in the ly, the Battle of the Horatii and
same hne : the two latter were Curiatii — ^the Battle of Tullus Hos-
found in the Gardens of Sallust. tilius with the Army of Veii ! — ^the
The Quadrangle likewise contains Discovery of Romulus and Remus
a Group of a Lion devouring a — Romulus founding Rome — ^the
Horse ! found near the outside of Sacrifice of Numa. Pompilius, and
the Porta S. Paolo, and restored tiie Institution of the Vestal Vir-
by Michael Angelo — ^the Bust, and gins ; — and the Rape of the Sa-
one Hand, of a colossal Statue of bines.
Commodus — the Bust of Domitian The second room contains Paint-
— and immense Feet and one ings by Laureti ; namely, Junius
Hand of a mutilated colossal Sta- Brutus condemning his Sons to
tue of Apollo. The Arcade con- death for having conspired against
tains a Statue of Julius Caesar — the Republic — Horatius Codes,
Ditto of Augustus, done appa- on the Sublician Bridge, opposing
rently after the battle of Actium, the Etrurians — ^Mutius Scsevola
judging by the prow of a gal- burning his own hand in presence
ley on its Pedestal — a Bacchante of Porsena, after having lolled one
— a Rostral Column, originally of the Etrurian Officers, whom
placed in the Forum, in ho- he mistook for the King — and the
nour of Caius Duillius, the first Battle in which the Tarquins were
Roman who gained a naval vie- defeated.
tory for his country — and a Lipn 2%5Mi>fl?roo7» contains a Frieze
on a Pedestal, which bears an representing the Triumph of Ma-
Inscription of the time of Adrian, rius, by Daniello da Volterral — ^a
To the right of the Arcade is an Picture of S*. Francesca Romana,
Apartment called the Protomoteca, by Romanelli ; and a dead Christ,
and consisting of ei^ht rooms, by Cosimo Piazza — the Statue of
recently embellished with Busts of the Bronze Wolf, said to have
illustrious Characters, now, no been struck with lightning when
more. Several of these Busts CsBsar fell ! This statue, already
were removed hither, from the mentioned as the work of an
Pantheon, by Pius VII ; and Leo Etruscan Artist, is evidently of
. XII, (as already mentioned,) has high antiquity ; and one of the
dedicated the Protomoteca to the legs of the Wolf bears marks of
use of the Arcadian Academy. liquefaction by a stroke of light-*
Ch. vij Rome; les
ningb — a bronze Bust of Junius the four Evan^lists, by Caravag-
Brutus ! ! — two Mosaic Tables eio, together with an Altar-piece,
taken from Adrian*s Villa — a mo- By Nucci.
dem Bust of Julius Caesar — a The next story of this building
bronze Statue of a Youth, sup- contains the Picture GcUlery,yr\iiSi
nosed to represent the ShepheiS, is open to the Public every Mon«
Martius, extracting a thorn from day and Thursday, Festivals ex-
his foot!! — ^group of Diana- TVt- cepted, at the fifth hour before
formis ^ — a modem Bust of Adrian sunset, and remains open four
— and a Basso-rilievo representing hours.
the Temple of Janus, or, according In an open Gallery, leading to
to some opinions,^ the Gate of the door of entrance to the rooms
Eternity. containing the Pictures, are the
TA«/oiiWA room contains a Bust Modem Fasti Consulares; and
in hasso-rilievo, of Mithridates ! — likewise a beautiful small Basso-
z.nd the Fasti Consulares'^// rilievo, executed in the time of
The fifth room contains a Bust, Pertinax, and representing Romu
in rosso antico, called Theseus — a lus and Remus suckled • by the
Bust of Michael Angelo — a Bust Wolf.
of Medusa, by Bernini — ^and a Bust Some of the most striking Pic-
of Tiberius ; together with two tures in the first room are ; No. 2,
Ducks, in bronze, said to have the Madonna, our Saviour, and
been found in the Tarpeian Rock, Saints, copied by Bonatti, from
and to be the representation of Paolo Veronese — 4, the Sacrifice
those ducks which saved the Ca- of Iphigenia, by Pietro da Cortona
pitol. Here, likewise, are the fol- — 5, the Portrait of a Lady, by
lowing Paintings : a Holy Family, Bronzino— 6, S. Lucia, by Benve-
by Giulio Romano ; and the Olym- nuto Garofolo I — 9, Vani^, by Ti-
pic Games, attributed to Zuccari. tian ! — 1 5, the Rape of the Sabines,
The sixth room contains a Frieze by Pietro da Cortona I — 1 8, a Por-
painted byAnnibale Caracci, and trait, by Velasquez — 33, Hagar
representing the Military Achieve- driven from the house of Abra-
ments of Scipio Africanus — Ro- ham, by Francesco Mola — 36,
man Tapestry, from the designs of Charity, by AnnibaJe Caracci !—
Rubens — Busts of Sappho ! So- 37, Bacchus and Ariadne, School
crates ! Ariadne ! and Sabina Pop- of Guido — 38, the Sibyl Persica,
paea! the second wife of Ner6. by Guercino ! ! — ^39, the Madonna,
The seventh room contains Fres- our Saviour, S. Cecilia, and other
cos by Pietro Perugino, who has Saints, by Annibale Caracci ! —
represented Hannibal in Capua — 40, the Madonna, our Saviour,
Rome triumphant over Sicily, <^. and S. Francesco, by Annibale
Here, likewise, are Statues of Vir- Caracci— 41, the Holy Family,
gil, Cicero, Cybele, ^. by Benvenuto Garofolo — 42, Maiy
T?ie eighth apartment is a Magdalene washing our Saviour*8
Chapel, on the Ceiling of which feet ; a Miniature, by M. F. Zi-
Caravaggio has represented the baldi Subleras, copied from the
Deitv. Here, also, are Paintings original of her husband ! — 43, the
of S. Cecilia, by Romanelli I and Marriage of S. Catehna, by Cor-
(V) Cicero tells us, that, in hie time, the mains of anticraity were found, duiing the
turrets of the Capitol, the statues of the gods. Pontificate of Paul III, near the Church of
and the image of the infant Romulus sucking Sa. Maria Liberatrice, in the Forum Ro-
the wolf, were struck down bv lightning. manum ; and nine fragmento more were
(c) Emblematical of her sovereignty oyer found in 1816. near the Columns supposed to
HeU, Earth, and Heaven. have belonged to the Cav^xttHm*
. (d) The mtkjor part of these precious re-
Uei ROMEi fCh Vt,
4
r9fsgtO'^4^ the Madoimft loxl out memchino ; (parts of this small
^ariour, by Albano! — 45, S\ picture are beautifuj)— §8, aLaad^
Maria Maddalena, by Tintoretto ! sca^e, by Claude — ftO.aPre^qwdV
-**46» David with the Head of by Garofolo — 62, the Madonna,
Goliath, hy Romanelli — 48, the our Saviour, and S. John, by
GoiBmunion of S. Girolamo, by Ditto— 63, the Juc^ment of Solo*.
Agostino Caracci I — dl» S. John n^on, by Giacomo Bassaao-^65»
Baptist, by DanieUo da Yolterra I the raising of S. Petronilla^a
92, Christ disputing with the Doc- Corse from the grave, and the
tors, by Valentin ! — 53, the Cun ascension of heir Spirit into Hea-
wanuL Sibyl, hy Domeniohino I — ven, by Guercin© I ! I— 72, a Gipsy,.
•0,. B. John Baptist^ by Guereino telling a Youth his fortune, by C*-.
««s-e3, a Landscape, with the Fi- ravaggio ! — 73, the Madonna, our
jifure of the Magdalene, Caracci Saviour, atid Ang;els» by Peru-
Sehool — 64, the Magdalene^ by gino — 76, a* Sc4m^ seated^ 1^
Albano — 65, the Triumph of Bac- Salvator Rosa — 77 y a half-length
chus» by Pietro da Cortona — 67,. %ure of S. Girdbmo, by Pietro
8. Cec2ia> by Romandli — 70» the Pacini — 78, a Portrait of Pe*
beatified Spirit, by Guido!-^76| traroa, by Giovanni BeUine— 79,,
Remvdus and Remus discovered a Landseape, by Dom^chtiio-^.
ytiih the Wolf,, attributed to Ru- 80, a Portrait of Michael Angel^y
^ens-^86,^ the Madonna adormg by himself r-^82» a Portrait oi;Gio>n
©ur Saviour, by Pietro da Cortona vanni BeUino, by himself — 86, a
-^8«k a Portrait, by Titian— 90, Witch^ by Salvator Rosa— 89, S.
Mdeager in (fkdwv-seuro,. by Px)li- Sebastiano^ by Lodovico Caraoei.
4101*0 da Caravaggio. — 93, Augustus and Cleopatra^ by^
Some of the most striking Pie* Guercii[io<^l09, S*^. Biurbara, a
tuves in th» seeofid taom are; half-length figure^ by DcHnenichina
No* 2", a Co^y of Raphael's Ga- — 1 11 , die. Holy Family, by Parmi-.
latea, by Pietro da Cortona — ^6, gianino-— 113, S. CristofOro, by
tiie Adoration of the Magi, by Ga- Tintoretto*— 1 14, S. Ceeilia, by Lo-*
rofolo — ll,aLajid$capeibyClaud0 dovico: Caracci! — 116, two Phi^
X^earrain-*- 12, Ditto, by Ditto< — losophers, by Calabrese — 120, the
Sfi Love^by Guide— 33, an Bec» Graces* by Palma Giovane-^123,
Uomoy by &aroccio-^a7, the Wo- Europa* by Paolo Veronese !
niaa detected in AduM^, by Ti- Museo Capikdino^ open to the-
tian — 40, Europa, by Guide I-^ Publ^ on the same days, and at
41, Alexander's Victory over Da- the same hours, as the Picture
rius, by Pietro da Cortona I — 43, Gallery;- and admittance ms^
a Head% by Titian — 44, Polyphe- usuallv be obtained on days when
Butsv by Guido— 47, the Presenta^ the Museum is not open to the
tien in the Temple, supposed to Public, l^ an afH^ieation to the
be by Fra Bartolomeo— -48, the Custode ; who^ if thus called upon.
Holy Family^ by Andrea Sacehi eatpeets a fee K
-<rd7, the Pool of Siilome, by Do« Some of the most striking ef-
(e) This \» a repreflentatkHi of o«r Saviour Mnseatiia of the Capitol and Vatican to M'^
in the man^r, attended by the blessed VirgiD, yantaga Aould visit them hy torchlight; as
Joseph, ^c. There is another kind of Prese- the torch, like Promethean fire, makes every
pio exhibited in Roman Catholic Countries at statue live ; in consequence of which, per-
C^ritffaas % and oonsisting of our Saviour, as h&pa, the most stupenaous eAwts of the ura-
an I^nfant, the blened Virgin, Joseph^ the wise ciata chisel wore orig inally placed in sabtter-
Men of the East, camels, ^c. ; all wrought in ranean baths^
wan, and sometimes well executed. The best For seeing the Vatieaa Mnsenm^ four larg«
oC theM exhibitions at B4>me is in the Chnseh- wax torches, weighing about three ponndsand
of S«. Maria d'Amcfisli. a half each, and costuog altog^etiber about si^
C/) Those persons who wish to see the sevdi^ aca requtsitw. 1^'or veetng the tfaaesaia
Oh. vi.i
romb;
Uf
forts of the chisel m this mi^fi* seum by Pius VII. No. 13, a square
cent CoUeotion, for which Kome Altar, supposed to be an Etruscan
is indebted to Clement XII, are ; work, representing the Labours of
Quadrangle; No. 1, a colossal Hercules.
Statue of Oceanus ! ». Setxmd room. No. 1 , the Family
Arcade; No. I, Endymion and Sepulchre of Genesius Marcianus,
his Dog, the pedestal fine — 3, a (Father of Alexander Severus,)
colossal Statue of Minervfr— 4, and his wife, Julia Mammsea.
fragment of a Statue of Hercules t Some of the BasH-riliem which
— 5, Apollo — ^7, a Bacchante, semi-* adorn this immense Sarcophagus
eolosstil. are fine. — 3, a Disk, with Basii'
Over ike Door of ike Director's rilieviy representing the life of
^ffartmeni four Consular Fasces. Achilles, and found near what is
Wo. 9, the Dacian Province— 10, supposed to have been the site of
a colossal Head of Cybele, found the Temple of Jupiter Feretrius !-—
in Adrian's Villa — 12, the Capital 4, an ancient Mosaic, found near
of a Doric column, taken n*om Antium, and representing Hercules
Caracalla*s Baths — 17, Isis, in rare vanquished by Love ! — 5, a Satyr
basalt,, found in the Gardens of with a pipe — H, Pluto and Cer-
Sallust — ^20, Diana — ^21, Hercules berus, found in Titus*s Baths f —
->~22, Isis, in red oriental granite, 13, a Baeso-rilievo of Poppsa, se-
found in the Gardens of S^ust-— .cond wife of Nero — 14, a Medallion
29, a colossal Statue of Diana — of Nero.
25, Polyphemus — 26, Mercury — Staircase, No. 1, a Statue of
27, a Sepulchral Urn — 28, Adrian Modesty, or a Vestal — % the Top
in a sacerdotal habit, found near of an ancient We^*^ — 5, a Lion
S. Stefano Rotondo — 30, Jove devouring a Goat. Fastened into
armed with thunder — 31, a Statue the Wall is the Plan of Ancient
of Mars, the head and armour Rome, found in the Church of
antique, the rest restored — 32, Saints Cosimo and Damiano.
Hercules killing the Hydra. Gallery up stairs. No. 2, Bust
Canopo, The greater part of of Faustina the elder, wife of An-
the statues contait^ in this apart- to'ninus Pius — 5, Euterpe — 10, a
ment are said to have been found Basso-rilievo, representing a Man
in the Canopus of Adrian's Villa : making his Will — 12, Faunus — 13,
it is supposed, however, that not Cupid oending his Bow, supposed
more than three of them are really to be an Ancient Copy firom rraxi-
Egyptian; the rest bein^ produc- teles! — 14, Bust of Silenus — 15,
tions of the time of Adnan. No. Bust of Pompey.
1, Isis and Apis — 3, Canopus — 9, Apartment of the Vase. No. 1,
Xsis — 10, Anubis with the Sistrum a large Vase with Bacchanalian
and Cs^uceus, found near the ornaments, found near the sepul-
Port of Antium, in the Villa-Pam- chre of Cecilia Metella ; and placed
fili — 12, Isis — ^13; Isis. on a Pedestal, apparently Etrus-
First room, added to tiie Mu- can, and decorated with figures in
ef the Capitol, two Imrge wax torches ate
snfteiflnt. Admisaion* however, cannot be
obtained to either Museum, for the purpose of
viewiar the statues hj torch-light, without an
order from the Pope's Mi^giordomo ; which
Older pever extends to more than fifteen per-
sons at the same time ; and but seldom to so
many.
It is expected that every party shall come
f«nii8he4 wiA wax torekee: and it is like-
wise expected that each party ekaU give, at
the Capitol, to the Costede who shews the
statues, and his attendants, from six to eight
scudi, provided there be fires in one or two
of the apartments; and, at the Vatican, from
nine to ten sendi, acoording to the number of
fires in the apartments.
(i^) Called Afar/ono, because it was found
in the Forum of Mare. , -e • ,
(A) Or perhaps a receptacle for sacnficial
aeh«B.
16g • ROME. [Ch. VL
•
baeso-rilievOi representing the Jupiter !— 44, Diana- Lucifera— 48,-
twelve principal Deities of the a Sarcophagus with Bassi-rilievi
heathen worlcf ; it was found at relative to the history of Bacchus
JSfettuno! — 2. (near the window,) — 50, Bust of Scipio Africanus! —
a bronze Vase, found in the Port 51, Bust of Phocion— 52, Statue of
• ofAntium; and once the property a Consul — 54, a semi-colossal
of Mithridates Eupator, King of Head of Antinous— 65, Bust of
Pontus, according to the Inscrip- Venus — 58, semi-colossal Bust of
tion it bears; which Inscription Jupiter-Ammon!— 60, Statue of
exhibits the most ancient Greek Ceres~62, Bust of the Mother of
characters extant !— 36, Diana Tri- Niobe— 63, Bust of Tiberius— 64,
formis — 37, a Basso-rilievo repre- Bacchus with a Panther at his feet
senting circumstances recorded by — 65, Jove with the Eagle at his
Homer— 39, a Sacrificial Tripod— feet— 66, Bust of Jupiter Serapis
40, ancient Roman Weights, Scales, —67, Head of Augustus— 68, Bust
a Casket, a Measure, and a Can- of Adrian— 70, Bust of Caligula—
delabrum— 41, the Triumph of 72, Statue of Marcus Aurelius—
Bacchus for the conquest of India 73, Bust of Trajan— 74, Bust of
— 47, Diana of Ephesus— 59, Isis Silenus crowned with ivy-^75,
—68, the Foot of a Tripod of Bust of Domitius Enobarbus, the
flowered alabaster !— 69, a Sepul- Father of Nero— 76, Bust of Ca-
chral Urn, representing the fable . racalla.
of Diana and Endymion — 77, Apartment of the Emperors.
Dianaof Ephesus— 83, a Herma/— On the Walls are the following
84, a Herma representing Bacchus Bassi-rilievi, numbered alphabe-
—96, a Cinerary Urn supposed to tically— ^. Genii in Cars— 5.
have contained the ashes of a Bacchus, on a Tiger, with F^uns,
Youth— 1 00, a Sarcophagus, with Satyrs, ^c.—C. the Chase of the
BassUrilieviy representing the fa- Calydonboar—j&. the nine Muses I
ble of Prometheus— 101, a Mosaic, —F. Perseus liberating Andro-
in pietre dure, of four Pigeons, meda!— G. Socrates with History,
described by Pliny, and found in and Homer with Poetry— i/. En-
Adnan's Villa * 1 1 dymion and his Dog, found on the
Continuation of the Gallery. Aventine Hill—/. 5ie fable of Hy-
No. 17, Bust supposed to repre- las ; three of the figures in this
sent Cecrops, first King of Athens Basso-rilievo exactly resemble the
— 18, Cato the Censor!— 19, Group three Graces of Siena. In the
of Agnppina and Nero— 21, Mar- middle of the room is a Statue of
cus Aurehus— 23, Bust of a laugh- Agrippina, the Mother of Germa-
mg Bacchus— 26, a young Her- nicus, seated in a . curule ; chair I
culesi— 27,Paris— 28,aSarcopha- and round the apartment, on two
gus representing the seizure of Pro- shelves of marble, stand Busts of
serpine— 29,aCineraryUm— 30,a the Roman Emperors and their
Bust, supposed to represent Mar- Relatives ; among the most strik-
cus Brutus— 32, Psyche, with the ing of which are— Julius Caesar,
wings of a butterfly— 34, Bust of numbered 1,— Drusus, numbered
Marcus Vespasian Agrippa !— 35, 5,— Germanicus, numbered 7,—
colossal Bust of the Mother of Caligula, numbered 9,— Messalina,
Niobe— 36, a wounded Gladiator ; numbered 11,— Galba, numbered
or, more probably, a Discobolus— 16,— Julia, the daughter of Titus,
37, a Wme-vase— 41, one of the numbered 21,— Nerva, numbered
Daughters of Niobe— 42, Head of 24, — Plotina, numbered 26,—
.«y ^-J^ Mo**^*; "*^e Pa[t of a^parement ; Adrian from Pereamua, ftnd to haro been the
and It supposed to have been brought bj wQrJs of Sosvs. * * ^ ■ ^®'* ^*^
Ch. VIJ
ROME.
169
Adrian, numbered 29, and 30, —
Julia - Sabina, numbered 3 1 , — '
Marcus Aurelius, numbered 35, —
Lucilla, the daughter of Marcus
Aurelius, numbered 40, — Commo-
dus, numbered 41, — Clodius Albi-
nus, numbered 47, — Septimius Se-
verus, numbered 48, and 49, — Ma-
crinus, numbered 53, — Maximus,
numbered 59, — ^Tribonianus Gal-
lus, numbered 68, — and Salonino,
numbered 73.
Apartment of the Philosophersj
Among the Bassi-rilievi on the
walls are, G. a Funeral Proces-
sion; — /. Victory in a triumphal
ear ; — L. a Sacrifice to Hygeia, in
rosso antico ; — M, Faunus fol-
lowed by Spartan Ladies: this
work bears the name of Callima-
chos, and is described by Pliny ^.
In the centre of the room is one of
the twelve Camillce, instituted by
Romulus, for the service of the
gods. On two marble shelve s round
the room are Busts of Poets, Philo-
sophers, and other . distinguished
Characters of antiquity: Virgil,
marked 1, — Socrates, marked 4,
5, and 6, — Cameades, marked 8,
— Seneca, marked 10, — Plato,
marked 11, — ^Diogenes, marked 21,
—Archimedes, marked 22, — ^As-
clepicules,^ marked 24, — Demos-
thenes, marked 31 , — Pindar, mark-
ed 33, — ^Aratus, marked 38, — De-
mocritus, marked 39, and 40, —
Homer, marked 44, 45, 46, and
47, — Aspasia, marked 48, — Cleo-
patra, marked 4 9, — Sappho, mark-
ed 51, — Lysias, marked 54, — ^Epi-
curus, marked 62, — Metrodorus,
marked 63, — Epicurus, marked 64,
— ^Aristotle, marked 66, — Massi-
nissa, marked 68, and 69, — Julian,
the apostate, marked 72, — Cicero,
marked 74, — and Gabrielle Faer-
no, marked 79, and the work of
Michael Angelo, are among the
most striking.
Saloon, The two Columns of
giallo antico, which ornament the
large niches of this apartment,
where stands the Hercules of
bronze ^It, once belonged to the
tomb of Cecilia Metella ; and the
two figures of Victory, which sup-
port the arms of Clement XI I,
once belpnging to the triumphal
Arch of Marcus Aurelius. Amons
the Statues are. No. 1, Jove armed
with lightning, of nero antico, and
found (as likewise was the Altar
which serves for its Pedestal) in
the Port of Antium! — 2. a Cen-
taur, of nero antico, found in
Adrian's Villa 1 1 — 3, Hercules, in
basalt, found on the Aventine
Hill ; tlie Pedestal is adorned with
Bassi-rilievif representing the
Birth, Education, and Coronation
of Jovel!—- 4, another Centaur,
sinular to that numbered "2**,
and found on the same spot!! —
5, ^sculapius, in nero antico,
placed on a circular Altar repre-
senting a Sacrifice, and found, as
was the Altar, at Antium — 6, Hy-
geia, goddess of health — 7, Ptole-
my-Apion, in the character of
Apollo — 8, Venus rising firom the
bath — 9, a wounded Amazon — 10,
an Amazon — 11, a wounded Ama-
zon — 13, a Muse — 14, Minerva! —
15, a Faun — 16, ApoUo; semi-
colossal — 18, a colossal Bust of
Trajan I — 21, a Wrestler — 22,
Adrian — 23, Caius Marius, in con-
sular robes ! ! — 24, Julia, consort of
Septimius . Severus — 25, Hercules
in bronze gUt, simi-colossal, found
in the Forum Boarium; and the
only antique statue in Rome on
which the gilding remains I ! This
Statue is placed upon an Altar
consecrated to Fortune. — 26, Isis
with the lotus on her head I — 28, a
Master of one of the Schools for
gymnastic exercises, found in
Adrian'sVilla^-29, one ofihePra-
ficcBy hired to weep at Funerals —
31, the Goddess of Clemency with
a patera and a lance, found on the
Aventine Hill— 32, a colossal Bust
C*) Winckelmann seems to think thU work Etruscan ; and supposes it to
represent three Priestesses of Sacchus and a Faun*
170 * ROME* [Clh.VIi
of Antoninus Pitis!-^3» Diana^ en an Altar de£oated to ApoHol
as a Huntress ; from the Albani —4^ the Faun of Praxiteles, found
oollection — ^34 » a Oacciatore, found at Tivoli,- in the Villa d'Este! ! !•— >
near the Porta-Latina — 35, Har* 6, Antinous!!! — 8, Flora, found
pocrates, the god of silenoe, found in Adrian's Villa! — 9, Venus ris«
fn Adrian s ViUa. ing from the bath ! ! !— 1 0» Bust of
Apartment of the Faun. — ^Among Mareus Brutus ! I — 12, Juno, semi-
the BoMt-riHevi on the Walls eolossaI!tI — 13, Bust of Alexan**
of this room, is the Triumph of der the Great I — 14, the £gyptian
the Nereides over marine Mon* Antinous deified by Adrian, semi*
sters. In the centre of the apart- colossal, and found in Adrian's
ment is the Faun, in rosso antico. Villa! — 15, Bust of Ariadno
found at Achrian's Villa I ! ! — ^No. 3, crowned with ivy — 16, Pandora,
colossal Head of Hercules placed semi-colossal, placed <»i an Altar
on a Rostral Altar, dedicated to dedicated to Hercules, and sup-
Neptune — 6, colossal Head of posed to have been found in the
Bacchus, placed on a Rostral Via Sacra/ — 17, Apollo, semi-co-
Altar, dedicated to Tranquillity— lossal, and found in the Zolfatara,
10, an incognito Bust — 13, a Sar- near Tivoli ! ! !
cophagus, the Baasi-rilievi on Tenyno di Palladet erected b^ /
which represent the fable of Diana Domitian in his Forum. This
and Endymion — 14, an incognito magnificent Ruin is half buried in
Bust standing on an Altar dedi- the earth ; but that part which ap-
eated to Isis, and found in Rome, pears above-^und of two beauti-
under the Oasanatense Librarv— ful fluted Corinthian Colunms now
1 5, a Child playing with a Mask— > standing, measures twenty - nine
17, Innocence playing with a dove Paris feet in height, each column
•*-19, Alexander the Great — ^21, a beinff nine feet and a half in cir«
Child playiog with a Swan, found cumnreBce. The Entablature and
in a W all now belon^g to the Frieze are rich in well-executed
Church of S. Croce in Gkrusa- ornaments, especially the latter,
lemme, and placed on an Altar de- which remsents the Arts patro-
dieated to the Sun ! — 22, an incog- nised by raUas. On the Entabla*
nito Bust — 26, a Sarcophagus tureis alargefigiffeoftheGroddess
ornamented with Bassi-rilievi re- in aito^riUwo, ^
presenting the Battle of Theseus Tempio e Foro di Nerva, The \
and the Amazons. Emperor Nerva, after the death of : /^
Apartment of the dying- Gladi- Domitiiui, finished his Forum, \ '
ator. This super-excellent Statue, which was enlarged and embek
found in the gardens of Sallust, lished by Trajan, who built there,
has been so w^ restored, by Mi- one of the flnest edifices of ancient
ehael Angelo, that the Ann he Rome, a Temple in honour of
made is deemed nearly equal in Nerva. Contiguous to the en-
merit with the other parts of the trance into the Forum of Nerva
figure^ ! ! ! ! ! — % Zeno, tiie Founder (now called Arco de* Pantani) are
ot the Stoics ; this Statue stands the remains of this Temple ;
upon an ancient Ahar, and was namely, part of what seems to hav«
discovered at Lavinium, in the been a Cdla, and part of a Side
Villa of Antoninus Pius — ^3, a Portico, consisting of tluree mag*
Group of Cupid and Psyche, found niiicent Columns and a Pilaster of
on the Aventine Hill, and placed ]huian marble, fluted, and of the
(0 Winckelmftnn supposes the 8tetn« called considered ts s copy of that master-piece in
The dyinr Gladiator, to represent a herald : bronse, by Ctesilaus, which represented a
other antiqnaries t^iuk it more like a shield- wounded mw ift tke a^ouea of deiith4
bearer; it seems, howtvcr, to be genenllf
Ch. VTJ ROMS. 171
•
Corinthian Order, which support an belonged to the Basilica. Seve*
Architrave much ornamented and ral ¥Vagments of Sculpture, In-»
finely worked. The height of these seriptions, ^., have likewise been
columns is fifty-one Pans feet, and found, and are now placed in the
their circumference sixteen and a Forum, which appears, from re«
half"*. This Forum, called Traym- cent examinations, made in the
i&riutHt or, the Thoroughfare, be- cellars and other subterranean
cause it led to the other i^ra in its parts •of buildings which now
neighbouriiood, was circumscribed eland on its site, to have been, like
with respect to site, and of a circu- the generality of Roman Po-
lar shape, as appears from its Wall rums, in shape an ovaL At the
now remaining ; Which, (supposed eastern extremity was^ the Temple
to have been originally part of the dedicated to Trajan ; on the foun-
City wall erected by Tarquinius dations of which stands at the pre-
Prisons,) is equally extraoniinary sent moment, a large Palazzo, ex«
on account of its immense height, tending nearly the whole length of
and the enormous blocks of stone the Via delle tre Cannelle, and ter-*
whit^ compose it, and are cramped minatin^ in the Piazza de* S. S.
together Without the assistance of Apostoli. The form of this Tem-
hme, by pieces of hard wood"* pie was oblong. At the western
Foro e C&lonna Trc^ana. The extremity of the Forum stood the
FC>rum of IVajan, built by Apol- Triumphal Arch. The Vestibule
lodorus of Athens, was, according of the Temple fronted the Historic
to the records of antiquity, more Column ; on one side of which was
splenM than any other Forum the Latin Library, and on the other
at Rome, and contained porticos, the Greek. Beyond these Libra-
statues, a Imsilica, with a bronze ries, and apparently connected with
equestrian statue 'of Traian in its them, was the Ulpian Basilica ; the
vestibule; a temple dedicated to Columns belonging to which are
that Emperor after his death ; a now placed, (as before mentioned,)
triumphal arch with four fronts, in their original position. Beyond
the celebrated Ulpian library, and the Basilica, near the western ex-
a beautiful Historic Cohimn, the tremity, was an open Piazza ; on
last of which alone remains entire, the north side of which stood tlie
and is supposed to stand in what Winter Portico ; and on the south
was the centre of the Forum ; and, side the Summer Portico. Shops
under this supposition, we may and Baths beautiful in point of ar-
eonelude that not much more than chiteeture, and long mistaken for
half of the latter has been exca- the Baths of Paulus ^milius,
vated, a»d that the other part must bounded the western end of the
stiQ remain entombed beneath the Forum*; and as they may be
Churches of S». Maria, and S». traced to the Palazzo-Ceva on one
Maria di Loretto, ^. The exca- side, they probably extended equal-
vations lately made have InxHight ly far on tne other ; that is, nearly
to light a considerable number- of to ^e line on which stood the Ves«
C(^umns c^ grey granite, aU bro- tibule of the Temple. Each Shop
ken, but which seem, judging from appears to have had a Magazine
die situation oftheir bases, to have under it; and the Stairs leading
(mi) According to som« optnioBS, this £di* («) Dio«]rBias of Halicarasasus records,
fice was the Temple of Mars Ultor, which that Tarquinius Priscus fortified Rome with
9eM|«, however, to hare stood in the Fonua walls consistiaf of blocks of stone cut >n^ooth
oC Attgastus ; by whom it was vaised, in «>»■• aad even* aad so large that each ooe ioaded a
sequence of a vow he made at Philippi.— ^Je« car. ,. . *u '
SuBTowiTt* V, MmMu (o) AccofdJng to Vitruvius. ther« wer«
SiMpt IB all theRwuM 7oruM.
172 RQME; [Cfi.VL
•
down to the Magazines are quite His histoiy is unknown ; but, ac-
perfect. Between the Shops are .cording to the inscription on the
Niches for statues; and the line Monument, it was raised by the
described by these Edifices is an Senate and People, to record his
oval p. Trajan's historic Column, worth— a great and unusual ho-
the most beautiful work extant of its nour. *
kind, was erected at the beginning Dogana Pontificia. This Edifice
of the second century, by the Senate stands on the ruins of a large ob-
and people of Rome, in honour of long building, each side of which
his Victories over the Daci, Sar- seems to have been originally de-
mati, if-c. It is of the Doric Order, corated with an open portico,
and composed of thirty- four blocks Eleven magnificent fluted Corin-
of white statuaay marble, fastened thian Columns of Greek marble
together with bronze cramps : its still remain, and support an oval
circumference, at the bottom, being Cornice Ukewise of Greek marble :
eleven Paris feet two inches, and these Columns are near forty Paris
at the top ten ; and its height from feet in height, and particularly
the pavement, including the Sta- well proportioned; their Base is
tue on its summit, one hundred attic, and their Capitals are deco-
and thirty- two Paris feef*. The rated with olive-leaves : they have
bassi-rilievi with which it is adorn- suffered cruelly from fire. The
ed, represent the Dacian Wars, Quadrangle of the Structure con-
and are supposed to have been de- tains Fragments of a fine Entabla-
signed, and in great measure exe- ture and a Portico ; and as part of
cuted, by Apollodorus. The Sta- the Roof of a Cella seems dis-
tue of Trajan, in bronze gilt, ori-r coverable among these splendid
ginally stood on the top of this ruins, they are supposed to be re-
Column, but the existing Statue, mains of a Temple ; and their
is that of S. Peter, placed there by proximity to the Forum of Anto-
Sixtus V. The Pedestal of the ninus Pius, added to other circum-
Column exhibits Trophies, Eagles, stances, makes it probable that
Wreaths of Oak, ^., most beau- they are remains of o Temple dedi-
tifully sculptured ', and originally cated to him by the Roman peo->
contained the Ashes of Trajan in pie.
a golden urn. Obelisk of Monie-'Citorio. This
Mausoleo di C, Poblicius Bibu- Obelisk, made, according to suppo-
Itts. On a spot, now called Macel sition, in the time of Sesostris, about
de' Corvi, and leading from the a thousand years before Christy
Corso toward the Capitol, are re- was brought to Rome by Augustus,
mains of this very ancient Sepul- who used it as the Gnomon, or
chral Monument ; which originally Stile, of his Meridian Line, which
was not within the walls of Rome ; was traced on the Pavement by
for it appears that Bibulus lived means of a Bronze Dial, near the '
during the second Punic war, and Temple of Juno-Lucina, now the
before this part of the Campus Church of S. Lorenzo in Lucina*.
Martins was added to the City. The Obelisk is of red granite
(f>) The first Lane to the left, beyond the A Staircase, consisting of one hundred and
western end of the Forom, leads to the Gate of eighty-four steps, leads to the top of the Co-
entrance to this line of Shops, and Baths. Inmn ; and is cut out of the blocks of marble
(^) Lumisden supposes the height of this which form its diameter,
majestic monument to b« one hundred and (^r) The shields and arms are those of the
fifteen feet ten inches, English — ^viz. the Pe- Daci, the Sarmati, and their allies, copied
destal twenty feet ten inches, and the Shaft from the originals brought to Rome by
of the Column ninety-five feet. Eutropius, Trajan.
(including the Statue and the Pedestal,) makes («) Se^ Pi^iny's Nat, Hiit, 1. 96— <r, 10^
the height one hnndredand forty-four Paris fe«t.
Ch. VI.]
ROME.
173
charged with Hiero^ljrphics, and his family : it was incrusted with
measures, from the bottom of its white marble, and, being raised to
pedestal to the ball on its summit, a great height, formed a stately
about eighty- one Paris feet. Pius Dome'. The building seems to
VI placed it on Monte- Citorio *. have been divided into three stories,
Colonna-Antonina, This stately round which were broad belts.
Historic Column was raised by whereon evergreens were planted :
the Roman Senate in honour of the summit was adorned with a
Marcus Aurelius Antoninus, whose Statue of Augustus ; and two
statue of bronze gilt stood on its
summit. It records the Marco-
mannic War, in a series of Bassi-
riliem, which seem to have been
imitated from those on Trajan's
Column, though inferior in point
of workmanship. It is of the Do-
ric Order, and composed of twenty-
Egyptian Obelisks stood at the
entrance*. One story alone re-
mains : here, however, are several
sepulchral Chambers tolerably per-
fect : and traces of the ancient en-
trance to these chambers, in the
Walls of the first Story, which are
immensely thick, may still be found.
eight blocks of white marble ; its This entrance resembles that, (re-
diameter being near twelve Paris cently discovered,) to the sepul-
feet, and its height, from its base chral chamber which contained the
to the top of the statue, about one ashes of Adrian in his Mausoleum,
hundred and forty-nine. As this The groves belonging to that of
Column was extremely injured by Augustus, and dedicated by him to
lightning, Sixtus V restored it ; at the use of the People, extended
the same time placing on its sum- toward the Porta del Popolo ; and
mit the Statue of S. Paul, which, the Bustum, where the bodies of
like that of Marcus Aurelius An- the Emperor and his family were
toninus, is of bronze gilt ". burnt, was in the vicinity of his
MausoleodAuffusto, Augustus, Mausoleum, near the Church of
during his sixth Consulate, erected S. Carlo al Corso. So extraordi-
this superb Mausoleum in the nary are the changes in this world.
Campus Martius, for himself and that the tomb of Augustus is now
([t) Monte-Citorio is supposed to be an artU
ficial height produced by the ruins of an Am-
rhitheatre built there, by Statilius Taurus,
n the Garden of the Mission, contiguous to
this spot, was discovered a plain column of red
Egyptian granite, about sixty-seven palmi
high ; and in diameter about eight palmi and
A half. It was brought to Rome by Trajan,
(his name being inscribed on it,) and after-
wards dedicated to Antoninus Pius, by Mar-
cus Aurelius Antoninus, and Lucias Verus.
It was dug up by order of Clement XI ; and
on one side of the pedestal was found in hasso-
rilievo, the apotheosis of Antoninus Pius and
Faustina the elder; on two of the other sides
funereal dances ; and on the fourUi side the
following inscription :
Divo. Antonino. Avo. Pxo
Antoninvs. Avovstvs. Et
Vkevs. Avovstvs. Filii.
Hence it appears that the inscription on the
Historic Column, dedicated to Marcus Aure-
lius, is incorrect in stating that he raised it in
honour of his adoptive father, Antoninus Pius.
The Column found in die Garden of the Mis-
sion was, by order of Pius VI, cut down to
repair the Obelisk which now adorns the
Piazza of Monte-Citorio. — See LVMisoiN'g
Antiquities of Borne,
(«) The Pedestal of the Aurelian Column i>
modern ; and, according to Lumisden, twenty*
five feet eight inches in height, EngUsh mea-
sure, and the shaft of the column he computes
to he ninety-seven feet high, English mea-
sure. If the Street, recently discovered eigh-
teen feet below the foundation of the Pslazzo-
Piombino, be, as antiquaries suppose, part of
the Fia-Flaminia, the Aurelian Column must,
when first erected, have stood on a considera-
ble hill.
(v) In the Campus Martius^ where Augustas
built his Sepulchre and Bustum^ the Dead
were usually nurnt. This Plain, called Cant'
pus MartiuSt because dedicated to Mars, is
supposed to have been originally given to
the Roman People by a Vestal Virgin: but
Tarquinius Superbus took ]>Oi!tsession of it for
himself, and sowed com there. On his expul-
sion, however, it was regained by the People. '
It extended, in the days of Augustus, from hia
^f ausoleum to the Theatre of Marcellns ; and
from the base of the Pincian, Quirinal, and
CapitQline Hills to the Tiber. During Nero'a
reign it is supposed to have reached to the
Ponte MoUe.
(tt>) They were not placed there by Augua*
tus ; but probably by Claudius.
1/4
ROME.
ICh. VI.
converted into a sort of Amphi- till recently brought to light by the
theatre for Bull-fights and Fire- aforesaid discovery of its entrance :
works ! and, jud^ng by the construction
Mattgoleo-'Adriano, now Castel of the £cufice, itieare must be ano*-
dt 8, Angela, This magnificent ther yet undiscovered Passage lead-
Edifice was erected on a square ing to the second story. The first
base of considerable height, (adorn- Vault into which the Gate of en-
ed with statues,) * by the Emperor trance opens is furnished With a
Adrian, nearly opposite to the large Niche, probably once occU-
Mausoleum of Augustus, and in pied by a statue of Adrian y. After
the Garden of Domitian i its form the fail of the Roman empire this
is a Rotondo. It consisted of Two Mausoleum became tiie Citadel of
Stories ; and was incrusted with Rome, and acquired the appella*-
Parian marble, encircled by a con- tion of Castello di S. Angelo, firom
centric portico, (above the cor^ a Statue of the Arch-angel, Mt-
nice of which were statues,) and chael, placed therc> to commemo-
terminated hy a cupola, surw rate a Vision of S. Gregori<!>; who,
rounded with statues. Its sum- being on the top of the Edifice,
mit displayed the ancient emblem thought he saw an Angel announc-
ofmouming, the fruit of the pine«- ing to him the cessation of the
tree, supposed to be that made Plague, which at that period rar
of bronze which is now placed in vaged Rome. Considerable re<-
the Garden belonfi:ing to the Vati- mains of the ancient Building may
can Museum. The Pons JElius, still be discovered within the walls
now called Ponte S. Afigelo, was of the modem Fortress ; the laiig^e
built, by Adrian, to server for an Hall of which merits notice, as it
access to his splendid Sepulchre ; is painted in fresco by Raphaers
and the Entrance, constructed by scholars.
him, fironts the Bridge, and has Tempio del Sole nel Giardino
been recently discovered ; as like- CoUmnese, In Via della Pilotttt*
wise has the Avenue, or vaulted near the Church of Santi Apostolic
Passage, leading up, by a gradual is a Door leading up a Flight Of
ascent, between the walls of the Narrow Steps into the Colonna
first story, to a large Chamber in Garden, where lie immense Frag-
the centre of the Building, where ments of what is supposed to have
probably stood the urn containing been the Temple of the Sun erected
Adrian's ashes. The form, Brick- by Aurelian. This Edifice, finely
work, and Mosaic Pavement of situated on the Quirinal Hill, way
this Vault are beautiful ; and its one of the largest Temples of an*
cjuietude and solemnity are pecu- cient Rome, if we may jud^e by
liarly in unison with the apartment the enormous magnitude ot the
to which it leads. This Passage Ruins of the Frieze and Entabla*
appears to have been forgotten ture which still remain*: they
firom the period when the Mauso- are of white marble, beautifully
leum was converted into a Fortress, sculptured. The Columns whicn
(«) These statues, each g^roup representing
a man holding a horse, were placed at the
fonr corners of the square batte.
{^y) This part of the Castel di 8. Angelo
cannot he seen by foreigners, unless they are
admitted and accompanied by the command-
ing officer of the rarrison : neither is the other
part open to the Public, except on two or three
pai^ionlar day's of the year, when the soldiers
■of the garrison hare permission to shew it.
C') One of these blocks of marble is twelve
feet in length, English measure ; thirteen in
breadth, and eleven in height. Another block
is seventeen feet in length, tea in breadth, and
six in height. But prwligioas to modem eyes
as these blocks appear, they are pigmies com*
fared with thotte mentioned by Joseph us as
aving composed part of the Temple at Jera-
salem, after its restoration by Herod, and as
being upward of sixty- seven feet ia lengtib,
above seven t« height, and about Bins ift
breadth.
Ch.VL3 HOME. m
supported the Entablaturtt are feello da Montelupo, and that of
supposed to have been seventy the latter by Bacciobigio. Near
English feet in height. Here was the Side-door is the Monument of
found a Votive Table of Marble, CardinalAlessandrino, designed by
on which the worship of Mithras is Giacomo della Porta ; and that of
represented; and as the worship of Cardinal Pimentelli, executed by
Mithras, (brought to Rome from Bernini : but the most celebrated
Persia,) was certainly connected piece of sculpture in this Church
v^th that of the sun, such a votive is a Statue of our Saviour holdinj^
offering is an indication that the his Cross, by Michael Angelo! Itia
Tem{>le of the Sun stood here. near the High-altar. The Altieri-
This Garden likewise contains Chapel contains an Altar-piece, by
Ruins of the BcUhs qf Constantine* Carlo Maratta and Baciccio : and
Obelisk of the Picasza di Santa the large Chapel belonging to the
Maria soprq Minerva, This little Caraffia. family is painted in fresco*
Obelisk, inscribed with Hierogly- hy F^ppino I'ippi* Rafaellino d^
phics, was found near the spot Garbo, and Fra Giovanni Angelico
where it now stands ; in conse- da Fiesole, who was buried in thia
quence [of excavations which were Church. The adjoining Convent
made to lay Uie foundations of the contains the Caaanaiense Library
Convent of the Minerva. The (the best at Rome, with respect
Obelisk now erected opposite to to printed books), and a Statue
tiie Pantheon, was found in the of Cardinal Casanatta, by Le
same place : and it is conjectured Gros \
that the Temples of Isis and Se- . Pantheon. The Piazza in which
rapis stood in this part of Rome ; this magnificent Temple stands,
and that these small Obelisks were was completely filled with ruins of
placed before them. A fine statue ancient buildings, till the Pontifi->
of Minerva, an Isis, a Serapis, an cate of Eugenius lY, who, on hav-
Isiaic Altar, and other Egyptian ing these ruins cleared away, dis*
antiquities, were found in this vici- covert, before the Portico of tha
nity ; as were the celebrated sta- Pantheon, the two lions of basalt
tues of the Nile and Tiber; the which now adorn the Fontana di
former of which is now in the Va- Termine ; a head of Agrippa, in
tican-Museum,' the latter at Paris, bronze ; and some ornaments, sup**
The Obelisk of the Piazza della posed to have belonged to the pedi-»
Minerva was placed there, by ment Grregory Xfll erected the
Alexander VII ; and the Elephant, Fountain in this Piazza ; and Cle**
on whose back it rests, was de« ment XI embelli^ed it with the
signed by Bernini, and executed by Egyptian ObeUsk before-mention*
Ferrata. ed. The Pantheon, which has in
Chiesa di 5". Maria sopra Mi- great measure defied the injuries of
nerva. This Church is supposed nme, seems as if preserved to latter
to stand on the foundations of a ages for the purpose of fiimishing
Temple of Minerva built by Pom* a just idea of ancient Roman taste
pey, in gratitude for his victories : and splendour. The general opi-»
the interior of the Church, how- nion appears to be that it was built
ever, though spacious and hand- by Agrippa, the son-in-law of Au-
some, exhioits no remains of the gustus ; and repaired by Septimiua
ancient Temple. Behind the High- Severus and Caracalla; but that
altar are the Tombs of Leo X, and Agrippa did not build the Portico
Clement VII, by Bandinelli ; the at the same time with the rest of
Statue of the former being by Ra- the Temple ; because the original
(a) On the twenty-tliird of April, from five till seveu ia tlw» eveni»g. tb«« U fin* vimc ia
' this church.
176
ROME!
tCh. VI".
Pediment may still be traced above away «. I'He original bronze doors,
his magnificent Portico; on the embellished with bassi-rilieviy be-
Prieze of which is the following came the spoil of Genseric, King of •
Inscription. ^^ Vandals, who lost them in the
Sicilian sea: the Door-case, which
M. AGRiPPA. L. F. COS. TERTiVM. jg magnificent, still remains ; and
^^^^"^ • the present Doors appear to have
The Pantheon, judging from its been taken fi*om an ancient edifice,
name, was dedicated to all the The inside of the Temple is circu-
gods : though Agrippa particu- lar, and its diameter is an hundred
larly consecrated it to Jupiter the and thirty-two Paris feet, exclusive
Avenger: and, according. to Dion of the walls, which are nineteen
Cassius, wished to have placed the feet thick : the height seems to »•
statue of Augustus there, and to : have been the same as the diame-
have inscribed his name as author ter, tiU the interior payement was
of the Temple ; which honour raised to a level with that of the
the Emperor modestly declined. Portico : for originally there was a
Agrippa, therefore, placed the sta- descent of seven or eight feet into '
tue of Julius Caesar in therotondo, the Pantheon ; a construction not
among the deities, and the statues unusual in ancient temples * The
of Au^stus and himself in the walls were incrusted with Precious
large niches on the outside near the Marbles, which still remain, as do
great door : and probably the Por- the ancient Cornices and Frieze ;
tico might have been added for the and it is supposed that the inside of
purpose of containing these sta- the Dome was originally covered
tues. Formerly there were seven with silver bassi^ruievi : the out-
steps leading up to the Portico; side was bronze gilt. The beams
now, two only are above ground, ofthe ceiling ofthe Dome and Por-*
This stately Vestibule is supported tico were cased with thick plates of
by sixteen magnificent Columns of bronze, which Urban VIII took
the Corinthian Order, each shaft away, to make the Baldacchino in
being one entire piece of red orien- S. reter's, and the cannon of the
tal granite, the circumference of Castle of S.An^elo; thereby draw-
which is fourteen Paris feet, and ing upon himself the following pas-
the height about thirty-nine. The quinade: " Quod non/ecerunt Bar-
Bases and Capitals are of white oari Rom€P, fecit Barberini" All
marble, and unique in point of the superior gods had their respec-
beauty. The Portico is -sur- tive statues here, in bronze, silver,
mounted by an Entablature and gold, or precious marble: that of
Pediment finely proportioned ; and Jupiter the Avenger is supposed to
in the tympan of the latter are have been in the centre of the Tri-
holes that served, no doubt, to fix buna ; the infernal deities on the
a basso'-rilievOf now, alas, taken pavement, the terrestrial in the
(&) Palladio supposes the body of the KdU
iiee to have been built in the time of the Re-
pabUc: that it was repaired by Septimiaf
Severas and Caracalla is evident, from an
Inscription on the Architrave of tlie Portico.
This Inscription expresses, that the Edifice
had suffered /rom ape.* and Lumisden, think-
ing it improbable such a building should have
suffered /rom age^ in so short a period as that
between the days of Agrippa and Septimius
Severus, is, therefore, inclined to adopt the
opinion of Palladio.
(c) It was composed of bronze i^It.
(d) Lumisden gives, in English measure,
thf following Acoouot of the dimensions of the
Pantheon. Shaft of each column supportiaf
the Portico, about forty-two feet, without in"
eluding either base or capital. Diameter of
the inside of the Temple about one hundred
and forty-nine feet, exclusive of the 'walls*
which are about eighteen feet thick ; so that
the diameter of the whole circle is about one
hundred and eighty-five feet. Height of the
interior the same as the breadth. The Pan-
theon, being one of those Temples which Vi-
tmvins ealb Hypathrat has no windows ; baC
is lighted from its summit by a circular open-
ing, or eye, the diameter of which i« aoont
twenty-seven feet^
Ch. VI.] ROME. 177
lower'niches of the Walls, and the Teairo di Pampeo, Campo di
celestial in the upper niches. The Fiori. Pompey, after having con-
Pavement is composed of porph}^ eluded the Mithridatic war, built,
and giallo antico, bordered with at a great expense, 'a Theatre with
other rare maibles ; and the Aper- a Covered Portico, and a Curia in
ture in the Roofforlight is twenty- its vicinity. The Palazzo- Pio, in
six feet in diameter. Pliny m^- the Campo di Fiori, is erected on
tions, among the ornaments, co- the foundations of the Seats of the
lumns with capitals of a metal Theatre ; and the Church of S. An-
called Syracustan; but none of drea della Valle is supposed to
these are preserved ; neither do any stand on, or near, the Site of the
of the Caryatides, nor the other Curia; in which Ceesar was as-
statues executed by Diogenes the sassinat^. Pompey*s was the
Athenian, now remain. Pliny like- first permanent Theatre built at
wise mentions, among the statues, Rome ; for, previous to his days,
a Venus with ear-rin^s made of a theatrical representations were ex-
pearl cut asunder ; bemg the fellow hibited in temporary edifices, made
of that which Cleopatra dissolved of wood. His Theatre was shaped
in vinegar, and drank to the health like a half- moon ; the circular part
of Mark Antony. Fourteen beau- serving for Seats and Orchestra ;
tiful Columns of the Corinthian and the straight line for the Stage.
Order still adorn the interior of Under the seats were Corridors,
this Edifice ; and it is said that the (Vomitorii,) which, by means of
two which stand on each side of the Staircases, conducted the specta-
High-altar were placed there by tors to their places. The Proscc"
Adrian. The smiedl Altars display niumt or Stage, was richly adorned
Columns of porphyry, giallo antico with Columns, and represented a
and granite, Paintingsr and Statues; magnificent Hall, terminated by
among the latter of which is a Niches for Statues': and behind
Group of a Vestal and a Child the Proscenium was a Covered
found in the subterranean part of Portico, ' to which the spectators
the Building; this Vestal is now retired, in case of rain ; as ancient
called S. A^a ". Busts, monu- Roman theatres were open to the
ments, and inscriptions, to the me- weather. Pliny says tlus Theatre
mory of distinguished characters contsdned .forty thousand specta-
whose talents have shed lustre tors : it may be found in the marble
upon Italy, once clothed the walls plan of Rome on the Staircase of
or the Pantheon ; but are now re- the Museum of the Capitol ; and
moved to the Capitol ; except the its covered portico is mentioned by
Inscriptions in memory of Raphael Vitruvius. The remains of this
and Annibale Caracci, and a Mo- Theatre, under the Palazza-Pio,
nument in memory of Cardinal can only be seen by means of
Consalvi. torches. The First Story consists
' Bagni dAgrippa. Immediately of reticulated Brick-work in excel-
behind the Pantheon were Agrippa's lent preservation; and under this
Baths, of which scarce any vestige Story is another, the Foundation
remains ; except a Semi-circular Walls of which are composed of
Building, now called Arco della immense Blocks of Stone, without
Ciaimheua. cement, and similar to the very old
(ji) It has been already mentioaed that the Sta^ were large ; beeaase the whole re-
Vestals were obliged to dedicate ten jrears of presentation was exhibited there ; and the
their lives to thb occupation of teaching the Orchestra (called, in English theatres, the
duties of their sacred office to their sue- pit) was small ; because it served only for
cesson. the seats of Senators and Magistrates.
(/) In Roman Thefttre» the dimensions of
N
ITS ROMB. [OK VI.
Walls of Rome* In the Lower tu68, representing fotir of the prin»
Story, Baths and Rewrvoirs foi' cipal Rivers of the world ; namely,
water are discoverable * the former the Ganges, the Nile * , ihe Plata,
rtsemblinff in shape the ancient and the Danube. The Fountain
baths still seen in Magna Greecia. does honour to the taste of Ber-^
A mutilated Statue, draped, and nini.
auaularin countenance to the medals Chieia di S. Agmie, in Piaaza"
crfPompeVf stands at the entrance Navona, This Church stands on
of the Palaxeo-Pio. The Custode the Lupanarium of the Circus
here is always provided with torches Agonalis, whither S. Agnes was
and a lantern, in order to conduct di^i^ed, in order to be defiled*- A
strangers into the Vaults* Staircase near the Chapel of S.
The Palazzo-Stoppani, built after Agnes leads into the Lupanariump
the designs of Raphael, near the where are considerable remains of
Church of S. Andrea della Yalle, antiquity, together with a Bommo"
contains^ at the foot of the Stair- rilievo of S. Agnes miraculously
ease* an ancient Statue of Marcus covered with her own hair ; and
Aurelius : and not far hence, near said to be one of the best works of
the Palaszo-Mattei, in a small Algardil
Court belonring to a Convent an*- The Church of S. Agnes, built in
nexed to the Church of S« Niccolo the form of a Greek Cross, contains
Cesarini, are remains of a circular stately columns of granite, a beau-.
Temple with fluted columns of tiful Pavement, a Cupola finely*
tufo; and probably that which was painted by Ciro Ferri, Corbellim,
dedicated bv Sylla to Hercules. and Baciccio ; a Statue of S. Agnes
Piazza*N(Wona, This was an- in the flames, by Ercole Ferrata ;
ciently the Circus A^onaiis ; so an antique Statue, now called 8.
called, perhaps, from having been Sebastiano ; several fine BmH^
the spot where the Agonal Games, rilievi, (the most striking of which
Instituted by Numa m honour of is S. Eustachio among Wild-beasts,
Janus, were celebrated. It is one by Ercole Ferrata ;) the Mausoleum
of the larpst Piazzas in Rome, and of Innocent X; and a High-altar
has retained its original shape, incrusted with flowered alabaster,
Gregory XIII embellished it with and ornamented with Columns of
two Fountains ; one of which is verde antique ; and a group in
ornamented with a Triton, by Ber- marble of the Holy Family, by Do-
nini ; and other sculpture, by vari- menichino Guidi.
ous artists : and Innocent X erect- The Lupanarium is damp and
ed the centre Fountain, after the cold.
design of Bernini. It consists of a Near the PiSisza^Navona, in the
circular Basin seventy-three Paris Piazza- Piumetti, is a House, the
feet in diameter; in the middle of outside walls of which are adorned
which rises a Rock, with the Sta- with a Fresco, by Polidoro da Ca-
tufe of a Sea-horse on one side, ravage, representing the Story
and on another that of a Lion: ofNiobe.
on the summit of this rock is an Teatro di Marcello^ Piazza' Mofi" ^Z'
Obelisk of red granite, covered tanara. This Theatre, said to
with Hieroglyphics, and ftfty-one have been the second built at Rome ^•
Paris feet in heiffht ; it was found for public exhibitions, was erected
in the Circus of Rimulus. The by Augustus in honour of his Ne-
four sides of the rock are likewise phew Marcellus ; and the archi*
embellished with four colossal Sta- lecture is so fine as to have served
(a) The Statue of tbe Kile has its head covered, to sifnifjr tiiat iti «ourc« WM «&•
known to the ancients.
Qb. VI j ROME. Iff
fts a model to all suoceeding ages, Fluninian Circus and Marcellus^t
It was four Stories high ; but the Theatre, in that part of Rome now
two upper ones are quite destroyed; occupied by the Pescheria, or
and have buried, in their ruins, the Great Fish-market, and the Church
seats, orchestra, and sta£;e. Almost of S. Angiolo in Pescheria ; and
half, however, of the Wall belong" was built oy Augustus, in honour
ing to the first and second Story of his Sister, Ootavia ; clneSLy for
of the circular part of the Theatre the purpose of sheltering the peo«
remains, and, though lamentably pie from rain. Its form seems
defaced, proves its magnificence, to have been a parallelogram.
The Portjco of the Ground Story, supported by nearly three hundred
which led to the lobbies and stair* columns, and adorned with statues
cases, is Roman Doric, and the of the most exquisite workman-
second Story Ionic. The edifice ship. It enclosed a court, where
was built with large blocks of tra^ stood a temple dedicated to JunOj
vertino, and held near thirty thou- and another dedicated to Jupiter ;
sand spectators. In order to see which, according to Pliny, were
the lower part of this beautifid built after the designs of Scaurus
Theatre, on which the Orsini-Pa- and Betrachus, two wealthy Lace-
lace now stands, it is necessary to demonian architects*": but, having
appoint the Custode of that Palace suffered from fire, these temples
to be in waiting there, about eleven were restored in the reign of Sep-*
in the forenoon. The Arches, timius Severus and CaracaUa, as
Corridors, and Substructions of appears by an inscription still vi-
the Stories now remaining are sible. The Portico of Octavia like-
highly worth notice ; and in the wise comprised an exhibition-haU
Lower Story were, according to for paintmss on certain days of
appearance, Baths and Reservoirs the year. Judging by the shape of
for water, like those in Pom- this Portico and its mterior buiM-
pey's llieatre. During the dark ings preserved in the ancient mar-
ages, the subterranean part of the blet plan of Rome, the present re-
^eatre of Marcellus was con- mains appear to have been one of
vertedlnto a place of confinement: the principal Entrances, in form
and on, or near, this spot, the Pri^ square, with two fironts similar to
son of the Decemviri oncQ' stood; each other, and both embellished
in which Prison, according to Pliny with fluted Corinthian Columns of
and Valerius Maximus, a woman white marble, supporting an £nta-
was condemned to be starved to blature and Pedunent, all finely
death, and saved by her daughter, executed ; and among the oma->
who had not long been brought to ments of the capital of every Co-
bed, and who got access to her, lumn is a Roman Eagle,
and supported her with her milk : Ternpio dEsculapio, now Chieta
tiU, at length, when this circum- di S, Bartolommeo, This Church
stance was discovered, the mother stands on what is called the Island
received pardon for the daughter's of the Tiber ; being precisely the
sake ; a pension, likewise, was be- space between the Pons Ceetiue and
stowed upon Hiem ; and a temple the Pons Fabricitu, The Romans
y^ raised on the spot to filial piety. have a tradition that this island was
Portico dOctavia, This mag- formed by the com belonging to
nificent Edifice stood between the Tarquin the Proud in the CampHS
(A) Pliny Mys, these Architects oflfered to aour having been refused, they engraved npon
bttUd at their own expense the temples in the edifices a Lizard and a Frog — 2»«i;^f
question, prorided they were allowed toia- ^nd B*.r^«v#f— being, in Greek, the names of
•cribe tikeii vithtteir m«m: M tki9 kth tke vckiSecIs as w«U as th« r«ptilM.
m 2
180 now&. . . [cKVi.
«
Martius, having been cut down, encircling the Altar is of alabaster
and, by order of the Consuls, and various precious marbles ; and
thrown into the river. About the the Ceiling is lined with ancient
year of Rome 462, when the City Mosaics. Here, also, are a small
suffered fi-om a pestilence, the round Picture of the Caraxjci-
Sibylline Books were consulted; school, and an ancient Pontifical
and an embassy sentf in conse- Chair. On the right of the great
Suence, to bring iEsculapius of door of the Church is an ancient
Ipidaurus to Rome : when the Vapour Bath, quite perfect ; the
Serpent worshipped by the Epi- Walls of which contain earthen
daurians, under tne name of Ms- Flues to convey hot air. This is
cidapius, followed the ambassadors supposed to be the Place where
into their galley, remained with S. Ceciha was killed; it is now con-
them during their voyage home, and verted into a Chapel, and here are
then quitted tiie vessel and swam two Pictures in the style of Guido ;
to the Island of the Tiber, where the one representing the Decapi-
a temple was built for him : and, tation of the Saint, the other her
to perpetuate the memory of this Coronation,
event, the figure of a Serpent is cut Basilica de S^. Maria in Tras-
on one of the stones which served tevere, supposed to stand on the
for the foundation of the temple, foundations of the Tabema Men-
The serpent, however, is in the toria, which was a hospital for in-
garden of the Convent belonging valid-soldiers. The Portico of this
to the Church ; and ladies are not Edifice is supported by smtique
idlowed to see the Garden without granite Columns, and contains an-
an order from a Cardinal. The cient Mosaics, and several ancient
Columns in the Chiurch appear to Inscriptions. The Church is a
be antique, and are supposed to noble structure, divided into three
have belonged to the Temple of naves by twenty-two. magnificent
^sculapius ; the Sarcophagus, antique CJolumns of red and grey
which forms the altar, is hand- granite: four Columns of the same
some. description support a fine archi-
Chiesa di S*^. Cecilia in Traste- trave ; and some of the Capitals
vere. This Edifice stands on the are ornamented with Heads of Isis,
Foundations of the House of S. S.erapis, and Harpocrates. The
Cecilia, and contains the Bath Pavement is that kind of Mosaic
wherein she suffered martyrdom. which was invented by the Emperor
An ancient Vase of marble is Alexander Severus, and caUedOpus
placed in the' Court leading to the Alexandrinum, In the centre of the
Church ; and the Portico is em- Ceiling of the middle aisle is the
bellished with antiqueColumns, two Assumption of the Virgin, by Do-
of which are granite. The high- niehichino ! ! and the Chapel to the
altar of the Church is ornamented left, on approaching the High-altar,
with foiu" Columns of nero and is embeUished with Frescos attri-
bianco antico supporting a Bal- buted to the same great artist,
dacchino of Parian marble ; under The Baldacchino of the High-altar
which rest the relics of S. Cecilia, is supported by four Columns of
in a Tomb composed of alabaster, porphyry, and in the Tribuna
lapis lazuli, jasper, verde antique, are Mosaics of the twelfth cen-
agate, and bronze gilt. Here hke- tury. Here, likewise, are two still
wise is the Statue of S. Cecilia, more ancient Mosaics : the one re-
by Stefano Maderno, in the posi- presenting Birds, the other a Sea-
tion in which she was found after port. This Basilica also contains
her marfyrdom I The Pavement an ancient Pontifical Chair; toge^
Ch. VL] ROME. 181
m
ther with the Tombs of two cele- supposed, by some persons, to have
brated painters, the Cav. Lan- been built on the foundations of
franco, and Giro Ferri. the Temple of Hercules*. Here
In the Piazza, before the Church, are an ancient Pavement and an
is a Fountain, made during the ancient Well. The High-altar is
Pontificate of Adrian I, and the adorned with fine Columns of verde
most ancient of modem Rome. antique : the Tabernacle is hand-
Chiesa di S«. Prisca, Monte- some ; and adjoining to the Church.
Aventino, On the left, in ascend- is the Villa of the deceased King'
ing the Aventine Hill from Rome, of Spain, said to stand on, or near,
is this Church ; supposed to have the site of the Temple of the Bona
been originally a pagan Temple. DeoT, The Garden belonging to
Twenty-four antique Columns yet this Villa commands a fine view,
remain; and an Isiaic Table was Behind the Aventine Hill is 3/on/tf-
found near the Church; which Testaccio, anciently Mons-Testa-
circumstance leads some persons ceus; which, though one hundred
to imagine it was a Temple of Isis ; and sixty-three Pans fieet in height,
especially as Isis had a temple on and above five hundred feet in cir-
the Aventine Hill. cumference, is composed, almost
Chiesa di S^. Sabina. Further entirely, of potsherds ; conjectured
to the r^ht, is this noble Edifice, to have been heaped upon this
supposed to stand on the foundji- spot, in former ages, by workmen
tions of the Temple of Diana, built belonging to the potteries of the
by Servius Tullius for the common neighbourhood,
use of the cities of Latium; and Sepolcro di Cqjo Cestio. This
iheref ore caUed Templum commune Pyramid was erected in memory
Latium^: or, else, on the site of of Caius Cestius, one of the Sep-
the Temple of Juno, built by Ca- temvir Epulonum, a College of
millus ^. But all we know to a Priests, instituted to provide ban-
certainty on this subject is, that quets, called Lectisternia, as of-
the Portico contains four antique ferings to the gods ; whose statues.
Columns, two of which are rare laid on superb couches, were placed
granite; that the interior of the at table, as the principal guests.
Church is supported by twenty- while the banquet was eaten by
four particularly beautiful antique the Epulones. Of Cestius's pri-
fluted Shafts of Parian marble, vate history we are ignorant ; but,
with Corinthian Bases and Capi- as the name of M. Agrippa is men-
tals ; and that the shape of the tioned in the inscriptions on the
Church resembles an ancient tem- Monument, we may conclude that
pie. In the last Chapel on the it was erected during the Augustan
right of the High-altar is a Pic- age : it measures an hundred and
ture, by Sassoferato, representing thirteen Paris feet in height ; and
the Madonna, S. Domenico, S. each of its four sides is, at the base,
Caterina, and Angels I ! The small sixty-nine feet in length: it was
Paintings round this fine work are built, a^eeable to the testament
good : they represent the Life of of Cestius, in three hundred and
our Saviour. thirty days ; and ornamented with
Chiesa di S, Alessio, Still fur- Paintings, relative to the Sacred
ther to the right is this Structure, Ceremonies of the Epulones, and
(t) Diooysitw of Halicarnassus says, ** Tul. (k) Camillas yowed a Temple to J«np at
lias built the Temple of Diana for the common the siege of Veii, and erected it on this HtU.
use of the people of Latium, on the Aventine (J) Because a statue of Herculen, wbea
HiU, the highest ground at Rome, where they young, executed in basalt, and preserved in
assembled aannally, held a Fair, and offered the Museum of the Capitol, was iound here,
^aqrifices to the Qoddesf." (m) The Earth.
18« ANTIQUITIES NSAR ROME. [Ch. VL
fttin visible, though much infure^ to the interior of the Two Upper
by time. It stands near the Porta Stories of the Edifice. Here may
8. Paolo, called Ostiense, by Au- be traced two open Courts sur-
relian, and was on the outside of rounded with Porticoes, a large
Rome till he extended her walls. Central Hall, or Xystum, the roof
Terme di Caracalla. On the of which was supported by eight
plain below the Aventine, and op- stupendous columns of granite ; a
•posite to the Celian Hill, are the circular Hall ; and the great Bath,
magnificent ruins of CaracaUa*s called Cella Solearis, in length
Baths ; which contained sixteen above an hundred and eighty Paris
hundred Sellee, or bathing places ; feet, and in width above an hun-
besides Labra^ or immense bathing dred and thirty : andnotwithstand-
tubs, of granite and porphyrv; in^ these vast dimensions, the
and were ornamented with peculi- Ceiling is said to have been sup-
arly fine pieces of sculpture ; the ported entirely by bars of bronze,
celebrated Belvedere Torso, the or plates of copper, laced together ;
Hercules of Glycon, the group but how this was effected is un-
called the Toro Pamese, and the known. The Cella Solearis con-
Famese Flora, having all been tained, as may still be seen, nine
found here. This Bunding (of a entrances for water, which formed
squaSreform, and more than a thou- an immense Basin, the lower part
sand Paris feet in extent) was of its Walls being cased with
begun, according to Eusebius, in Water-proof Mastic, called Ojms
the early part of Caracalla's reign, Signinum. Two apartments, which
and finished before his death ; ex- appear to have been Kitchens, are
cept the Porticos, which were discoverable in this Story ; as are
commenced afterwsLrds, and com- ruins of Staircases, which led to
pleted by Alexander Severus. The the Upper Storv. The height of
Edifice consisted of two Stories the remaining Walls of the Edifice
above ground, standing on two is stupendous ; and the whole ex-
or three Stories of subterranean hibits one of the noblest specimens
apartments : and the most conve- now existing of ancient Roman
luent way of seeing what remains, architecture. Recent excavations
is to dnve just beyond a Lane, here have brought to light several
called Via-Antonina, on the road Mosaic Pavements ; but no fine
to the Porta S. Sebastiano, and sculpture, and not much fine mar-
enter the first Garden-Gate on the ble : therefore it is to be concluded
right ; which leads to part of the that all the best statues and other
Ground-floor of these gigantic ornaments of these splendid Balhs
ruins : namely, a long line of have long since been discovered
Bathing Rooms and other Apart- and removed.
ments ; the former of which are Sepolcro de' Scipioni, This •
supposed to have been dedicated Tomb is situated in a Vineyard,
to the use of the inferior classes on the Via-Appia, still nearer to
of people, and the latter assigned the Porta S. Sebastiano than are
to the officers who regulated the the Baths of Caracalla: it is on
police of the Baths, and the ser- the left side of the way, and the
vants who had the care of the fur- words *'Sepulchra Sctptonum'" are
naces, dressmg rooms, ^c. Steps inscribed over the door. TTiis
lead. from these ruins to the Story was the Family Tomb of Lucius
above them ; where a Gate may Cornelius Scipio Barfoatus, great-
be found, which opens into the Via- grandfather of Asiaticus and Airi-
Antonina ; toward the upper part caaus : it is a handsome pieoe of
of which is another Gfl^e, leading Doric architecture, very perfect.
Ch. VI.) ANTIQUITIES NEAR ROME. 183
veiy extensive, and extremely in- ipan and a half high, and between
teresting, though now robbed of its four and ftve long, many of which
most vfiduable treasures, which are open and empty, others closed
have been removed to the Vatican with a piece of marble, sometimes
Museum. The candles provided by contaimn^ an Inscription. Few of
the Custode of this Subterranean these Cavities appear large enough
Repository are so few in number, to contain a mil-grown person,
that persons who wish to see it though the skeletons of cnildren
distinctly, should carry lights of have frequenUv been found in
their own : it is excessively damp. ' them ; and tnis circumstance
Porta di S, Ssbaatiano, lliis strengthens the prevailing opinion,
is the Appian Gate, sometimes that children, among the ancients,
called Capena^ though that Gate were oftener buri^ than burnt,
appears to have stood below the Here have been discovered several
Villa-Mattei, between the Celian small Vases, called Lachryma-
and Aventine Hills. Immediately tones, though more probably In-
within the Gate of S. Bebastiano cense«Bottles ; and here likewise
is an Arch, called that o/DnuuSy are places for cinerary urns. When
though it probably belonged to an this mark •♦ Jg *' is found upon a
Aqueduct. Monument, it is deemed a sure
Btt9ilioa di S. Sebastiano alle indication of a Martyr's Sepulchre,
Catacombe, The Church is about being a composition, from the
two miles distant from the Gate : Latin and Greek alphabets, to de-
it has a Portico supported by an- note Pro Christo ■. The Cross on
tique Columns, and is supposed to a Monument is also considered as
have been erected by Constantine. a sign that a Christian lies buried
The High-altar displays four Co- tiiere ; but it should be remem-
lumns of verde antique ; and over bered that a Cross was the Egyp-
the three Doors of ingress are tian emblem of eternal life, and
Paintings, by Antonio Caracci. many crosses have been discovered
Under this Church are Catacombs, upon Egyptian tombs, and like-
originally formed, no doubt, by the wise in the temples of Serapis.
ancient Homans, and whence they The Churches of S, Lorenzo and •
took the pozzolana with which their S. Agnes also lead to ancient Ca-
buildings were made. The Chris- tacombs: their extent cannot be
tians enlarged these Catacombs, aoourately known, because it is
and, in times of persecution, used impossible to explore every part
them as hiding-places and ceme- of them, as their communications
teries ; they are said to extend se- with each other are so intricate,
veral miles. It is often necessary that several persons have lost
to stoop in going through these themselves in these subterra-
CavCTns, but, generally speaking, nean labyrinths ; which are sup-
they are neiliier damp nor difficmt posed to be the Putieuii men-
of access. The Passages are from tioned by Horace, Varro, and
two to three feet wide ; the Cham- Festus Pompeius, where the bo-
bers (of which there are several,) dies of slaves only, or persons
from four to six feet broad, and whose circumstances would not
from six to eight in length, some allow of their being burnt on frme-
of them being still larger; and here ral piles, were deposited: but, in
it is said the primitive Christians process of time, persons of a higher
performed their religious exercises, rank might probably be interred
In the Walls are Cavities about a here ; for the Homans, before Chris-
(•) XFI2TOS ia the Greek word for Christ.
184 ANTIQUITIES NEAR ROME. [Ch. VI.
tianity prevailed, often buried their Spina, or Platform, (whereon stood
dead, as is evident from monu- the Obelisk now in the Piazza
mental inscriptions beginning with Navona, the Statues, and Altars ;
the words LHis Mattibus, The and where, during the Shows,
Chapel of the Catacombs of S. bands of music are supposed to
Sebastiano contains a Bust of that have been stationed ;) and" the
Saint, by Bernini. It is neces- Foundations of the Carceres,
sary to cany lights, in order to see which appear • to have been ele-
these Catacombs well. gantly ornamented* This Cu*cus
Ctrco di Romolo, On the left is of an oblong shape, with a Cir-
side of the road, and at the foot of cular Wall at the end where the
the hill on which stands the Tomb great mass of spectators entered,
of Coecilia Metella, is the Circus of and a Slightly Curved Wall at the
Romulus (Son ofMaxentius), long opposite end, near the first Meta,
called that of Caracalla ; together or Goal. The breadth of the Cir-
with ruins of various Edifices be- cus, at this end, is much greater
longing to it. Tlie first of these than at the other ; and at each ex-
that presents itself is a large Ro- tremity of the Wall is a Tower,
tondo, supposed to have been the where trumpeters are supposed to
quarters of the F^etorian Guard, have been placed, to give signals,
while the Emperor attended the The Podium, or Stand, for the
Circus ; and, enclosing this Ro- Emperor and his suite, appears to
tondo, whose second story was a have been near the first Meta:
Serapepn", are remains of a double and from the Podium he, or who-
row of lofty wjJls, between which, ever presided at these Shows, gave
it is supposed, were the stables of the signal for beginning the en-
the horses used for the chariot- tertainment. On the opposite side
races ; while the open inner-spdce, of the Circus was the Pretorian
or quadrangle, where stood the Stand. The Archway on a line
before named Serapeon, contained with the imperial Stand, (and im-
the cars. Near this building is an mediately fronting what are called
ancient Sepulchre, leading to the remains of the "femples of Virtue
Circus, which is more perfect than and Honour, built by Marcellus,)
any other of the whole fifteen is, by some antiquaries, supposed
once found at Rome ; for here, the to have been the Triumphal Gate ;
MetcBy the Spinay the situation of and probably the Archway, imme-
the Obelisk, the Seats, and the diately opposite, was the Gate
Porticos whither the spectators re- through which the Dead were
tired in case of rain, have long borne ofil In the centre of the
been discoverable; and the exca- CJarceres there appears to have
vations recently made by the Duke been another Gate, through which,
of Bracciano, for the purpose of perhaps, the cars entered the Cir-
disinterring the hidden part of this cus, in order to be ranged for
•Circus, have brought to view the starting ; and near the first Meta
Great Public Entrance, or Steps is a small Pedestal, where proba-
leading down to the Seats; of bly the imperial Standard might
which Steps six remain on one have been hoisted. The Spina is
side, and seven on the other ; the a wide Platform, elevated con-
Metae, (small buildings, hollow siderably above the race^course,
within, and placed at each extre- divided into compartments, by
mity of the Spina;) the whole narrow paths, and fenced round
(o) Near the Cbvrch of S. Sebastiano was and now preserved in the Capitol. It prolM*
found a sqqare Altar, dedicated to Serapis, bly belonged to the Serapeon here.
Ch. VI.]
ANTIQUITIES NEXR ROME.
185
by dwarf Walls. Pools of water, style of building is not supposed
from elevetn to twelve feet in length, to have been adopted till after the
were, in consequence of the late reign of Caracalla ; therefore. An-
excavations, discovered between ti(|uaries were at a loss to deter-
each Meta and the Spina; and nune the date of the Circus in
the ground thus accidentally over- question, till the recent excava-
flowed, is supposed to have served tions made by the Duke of Brae-
originally for passages from the ciano, to elucidate this matter.
Spina to the Cells under the Metse. produced an Inscription, which
Statues were discovered in, or seems to prove, that the Circus
near, the water ; and broken Bag- was constructed during the reign
si'Ttlievi, representing Chariots of Maxentius, and dedicatra,
and Charioteers, were found near A. D. 311, to his Son, Romulus,
the Metse; which seem to have To the north of this Circus, in
been incrusted with these oma- a neighbouring Vineyard, are re-
ments, and guarded from injury mains of ancient Edifices called
by lai^ Circular Stones, found the Temples of Honour and Vir-
ciose«to themi*. Some Fragments tue, built by Marcellus, after his
of the Bassi-rilievi are weU exe- Sicilian conquests, in the year of
cuted ; others were evidently done Rome 544 ; and said to have been
during the dark ages. It seems so constructed, that it was impos-
probable that the Altars of Consul sible to enter the former, without
were kept in the Cells of the Metse ; passing through the latter. The
though nothing has been found in situation of these Temples is,
those Cells, but bones of quadru- however, a disputed point : Livy
peds. On each side of the Circus places them just without the an-
was a Covered Galleiy, the Roof cient Porta- Capena ; and if this
of which made part of the founda- Gate stood, as antiquaries suppose,
tions of the Seats for spectators, below the Villa-Mattei, in the
The Seats held about twenty thou- narrow part of the Vale, between
sand persons in ten rows on each the Cehan and Aventine Hills,
side ; and the covered Galleries these Ruins are more distant from
were lighted by windows. Com- Rome than were the Temples of
bats of Gladiators and Wild-beasts Honour and Virtue. But it should
were sometimes exhibited in the be remembered that, to ascertain
great area between the first Meta the precise site of the Porta-Ca-
and the Cai*ceres ; and sometimes pena, or any other ancient Gate
water was intr6duced, and Nau- of Rome, is now scarce possible,
machisB represented : but, gene- so often have the City-walls been
rally speakmg, this Circus seems altered t
to have been devoted to Chariot- Sepolcro di Cecilia Metelh,
races. In the WaUs here, (and Had not the Roman Barons, dur-
likewise in some parts of the ing the middle ages, converted this
Wall wMch surrounds Rome,) beautiful Structure into a fortress,
are coarse earthen Vases, whose and built a parapet and port-holes
spherical shape, operating like round its summit, it might have
arches, diminished the perpendicu- lasted to eternity, so durable is the
iar weight of the fabric, and con- manner of its construction. The
tributed to strengthen it. This Monument was erected by Crassus,
(p) The great skill of the charioteer con'
gisted in turning his horses as near as possi-
ble to each MetOt without injary to his cha*
riot : and as the ordinary course was seven
rounds of the Circus, he, by these means, con-
siderably shortened the distance. But as
mnlHlfal chaiiotecfs wer« liable tP strike
their chariots against theMc<«, these circular
Stones (lately disinterred) might probably
be intended to protect them. Victory was
pronounced in favour of the charioteer whose
carriage, after seven rounds, first pMsed over
a line of white chalk between the first J»frt«
aad the shorter of the two sides of the Qirpns.
166 ANTIQUITIES NIlAIl ROM*. [Oh. Vf.
to enclose the mmains of his Wife, praoious eolumnii which thU
Coeoilia Metella; and notwith* Church presented,) were placed,
standing the above-named ugly from time to time, Portraits of
parapet, is one of the best preserved all the Popes, two hundred and
sepulchral fabrics of ancient Rome, fifty in number, beginning wi^
About two miles from this Mo- B. Peter, and ending with Pius
nument is an ancient public Us* VII. Tlie pavement was com-
trina, where the dead were burnt : posed of fragments of marble ;
and near the Fossm CluilieB^ in among which were ancient sepul-
this neighbourhood, about five chral inscriptions ; and the cen-
miles from Rome, and on a spot tre entrance-door, consisting of
now called Casale RotondOy is the bronze, embellished with oa#«t-
scene of combat between tiie Ho- rilieoi, was cast at Constantinople
rati! and Curiatii, denominated, by in 1070. Repairs were making on
the ancient Romans, Horatiorum the outside of this Basilica, by
campus sacer. No vestige remains order of Pius VII, when very
of tne five monuments erected to early on tiie morning of the six-
the memoiy of the five champions teenth of July, 1824, the Vhole
who were buried there. Roof was discovered to be in
Basiliea di 8. Paolo^fuori delle flames ; and, very soon after, fell
Mura, This venerable Edifice, down into the aisles; where the
which lately fell a prey to fire, fire raged with such fury that it
was erected by Constantine over absolutely calcined the columns
the grave of S. Paul ; enlarged of pavonazzo, and those of Pa-
l^ Theodosius, finished by Ho- rian marble, which adorned the
norius ; and enriched with an middle aisle ; likewise splitting
hundred and thirty-two ancient from top to bottom the immense
columns of precious marble : the columns which support the Great
length of the Structure, exclusive Arch of the Tribuna, and ruining,
of the Tribuna, being two hundred in the same manner, the columns
and forty Paris feet, and its breadth of Egyptian granite and cipolino
one hundred and thirty-eight. An- in the cross-usle. Even the co-
cient columns, eighty in number^ lumns of porphyry on each side
divided it into five aisles ; and of the altars are, notwithstanding
twenty-four of these columns, the extreme hardness of the mar-
placed in the middle aisle, were ble, shivered to ^eces ; but the
especially magnificent; being of Great Arch of tne middle aisle,
the Corinthian Order, and each and the Mosaics with which it is
shaft one entire piece of pavo- lined, though damaged, are still
nazzo, beautifully and peculiarly remaining ; so likewise are several
fluted. Splendid columns of rare of the Portraits of the Popes :
marble, forty-two feet in height and the High-altar, under whidi
and fifteen in circumference, were rest part of the relics of S. Paul,
selected to support the great" arch is not very materially injured,
of the Tribuna ; and behind the The Facade, decorated 'with Mo«
shrine of S. Paul was placed a saics of the thirteentii centiuy,
column with an equilateral Parian remains entire ; as does the Colon-
marble base of seven feet, and nade erected by Benedict XIII ;
finely worked. The altars were but the large door of bronze, cast
ornamented with thirty columns of at Constantinople, was partly
porphyry ; and the high-altar em- melted by the violence of the con-
bellished with gems. The Arch fiagration.
of the Great Nave was lined with ft is impossible to contemplate
Mosaics in the year 440 ; and on these ruins without deef^y regret-
the walls, <abo?e the grove of ting that the work of eenUxcimh
Ch. VI.] ANTIQUITIES NEAR ROME. Ut
and the most ancient Basilica o{ the deeetued Duohei* of ChablaU,
fhe Christian world, should haya Returning from S. Paolo aUe tre
been thus rapidly and unaocount* Fontana, we see, on the right,
ably destroyed*!, not for distant from the Tomb of
ChieM di 8. Paolo alle tre Cceeilia Metella, two Excavations,
Fontane. Near two miles beyond which have recently disclosed the
the ruins of the Basilica of S.Paul lower part of two ancient Roman
is the spot where this great Apos- Villas. That nearest to the Tomb
tie suffered ; and where conside- of Ooecilia Metella is supposed to
rable numbers of Christians were have belonged to the Consul Miii'«
executed, by command of the cus Procus, or his Daughter ; and
Emperor Bioclesian, after he had displays the Shape and Walls of
employed them in building his several Rooms, where Ba««t-n7twi
Baths. On this spot, (anciently and a Statue have been found;
ad aquas Salvias,) are three and also some beautiful Pavements.
Churches : the first, /S«. Maria The rooms seem to have been
Scala Coeli, was built by Vignola, painted like those at Pompeii. The
and is thought a good piece of plan of this Villa is discoverable,
architecture : the inside, an octa- so far as to prove that the apart-
gon, contains a Mosaic, by Fran* ments were small, though nume*
cesco Zucca, of the School of Va- rous. Here was found Ancient
sari; said to be the first thing Glass, some pieces being very
of its kind executed in good taste, thick, others very thin, and in a
after the revival of the Arts. Th« state of decay. The ViUa on the
second Church, that of Saints hill to the left exhibits Subter-
Vincenzo and Anastasio, contains ranean Arches, above which are
Frescos of the twelve Apostles, a the Foundations of a square Por-
Noli me tangere, and the Bap- tico, once supported, as it seems,
tism of our Saviour, all executed by forty stuccoed pillars. The
after the designs of Raphael, but centre of this Portico is not ex-
much injured, except the two last, cavated : the Walls appear to have
The third Church, that of S. Paul, been adorned with Pamtings ; and
was built by Giacomo della Porta, the Floors paved, like those of the
and does him honour : its interior opposite Vula ; which was disco-
contains two Altars, and three vered in consequence of a piece of
Fountains called miraculous ; to- tessellated pavement being worked
gether with ten Columns of rare out of a mole-hill,
marble', which ornament the Chiesa di 8» Urbano alia Caf-
fountains and altars. Here is a farella. On the eminence above
White Stone, on which S. Paul the Fountain of Egeria is a Church
is supposed to have been decapi- dedicated to S. Urbano ; and on*
tated: and here, likewise, is a ginally an ancient Temple ; which,
Picture of the Crucifixion of S, n-om the old name of the spot,
Peter, by Guido; which appears ad Camoenas, was supposed to
to have "been finely executed, but have been dedicated to the Muses,
is now much spoiled till the discovery (in the subter-
Excavations on the estate of ranean part of the Building) of
(a) Architects say, the beams of cedar. The Kings of England were, before the
which supported the roof of S. Panrs, were fteformation, protectors of the Basilica of 8.
so prodigionsly thick that they must hare Paul, in the same manner as the Emperor of
smouldered for days, before the flames burst Germany is protector of S. Peter's, the Km*
forth : and it is even conjectured that a of France of 8. Otorauni in Laterano, and
train of combustibles must hare been em- the King of Spain of 6*- Maria Maggiore.
ployed in order to make the fire communicate (r) TVo of these col*mii« »w »*"<»» por-
fron» beam to be^n^* pbyry.
188 ANTIQUITIES NEAR ROME. [Ch. VI.
an Altar inscribed to Bacchus, by and round the Walls are Niches,
Apronianus, interpreter of his apparently made for the reception
mysteries, and exhibiting the Dio- of other statues i This is denomi-
nysiac Serpent'. This discovery nated the Grotto of Egeria : but,
led antiquaries to change their as it seems probable that there
opinion, and conclude that the were several of these Nymphceix
Temple was consecrated to Bac- in the vicinity of the Almo, and as
chus. Four fluted Composite Co- it likewise appears, from classic
lumns of white marble, which writers, that the Fountain of Ege-
appear to have originally sup- ria was near the ancient Porta-
ported the Portico, or vestibule, Capena, we have no good autho-
now make part of the Exterior rily for calling the Fountain in
Wall of the Church : under the question that of Egeria.
Portico, on the right of tfie En- Tempio di Bedtcolo, or more
trance-door, is the Altar inscribed properly Redeundo. Beyond the
to Bacchus; and the interior of Fountam called that of Egeria,
the Church (in form a paralldo- and standing in the same valley,
gram) is ornamented with a fine is a beautiful small Structure of
Frieze of Stucco, and Medallions brick, ornamented with pilasters,
of the same description on the and once embellished with a portico
Ceiling. The Crypt, where the now destroyed. This building has
Dionysiac Altar was found, merits long been denominated Tempio di
notice, as it probably made part RedicolOy or, more properly. Re-
of the ancient Temple. deundo ; which Temple was erected
Fontana della Dea Egeria. This when Hannibal raised the siege of
Grotto, according to Flaminius Rome and returned toward Naples,
Vacca, was consecrated, by Numa and therefore called the Temple of
Pompilius, to the Wood-Nymphs; the Returriy as the word expresses :
and the water which supplied its and the situation of the structure
Fountain was the Ovidian Almo. in question on a spot supposed to
At the upper end of a Grotto be the site of Hannibal's Camp%
displaying considerable remains of would establish the belief that it
the opus reticulatum, and situated may be remains of the Temple of
below the Temple of Bacchus, in the Return, did not Pliny describe
the Valley of the Caffarella, (for- that Temple as standing to the
merly ad Camoenas,) are remains right of the Via-Appia, m an op-
of a Recumbent Statue, called posite direction.
' Egeria, though supposed, by anti- Porta-Pia, This Gate, built
quaries, to represent the Almo * ; by Pius IV, was anciently called
(«) The Dionysia were festivals in honour dawn, and ends abont mid-day. The lower
of Bacchus, originally instituted by the classes of modem Romans, as already men-
Greeks; thoogh afterwards observed by the tioned, retain many of the religious customs
Romans. Small gold baskets, containing of their ancestors ; and therefore this annual
fruits mingled with serpents, were sometimes festival tends to confirm the opinion of the
carried by noble virgins At these festivals. Church of S. Urbano alia Caffarella having
The worshippers imitated, in their dress and been originally a Temple of fiacchus.
actions, the poetical fictions concerning Bac- (0 The Aqua Mercurii, with which Roman
chus ; they clothed theniselves with fauns* shopkeepers olessed their goods,
skins, fine linen, and mitrcS ; carrying in (v) Near half a mile beyond the Porta S.
their hands thyrsi, drums, pipes, and Antes, Sebastiano, on the left, is a small rivulet,
and rrowning their heads with garlands of which being impeded in its course, has formed
ivy, vine-leaves, flowers, &c. And the lower a Marsh : beyond this rivulet is a gradual
classes of the modem Romans go annually, ascent to the Chapel of Domine quo . vadit,
on the first Sunday in May, to the Valley of where the road divides into two branches ;
the Caffarella: where thev carouse, and that on the left leading to the Tempio di
crown themselves with garlands of flowers ; Redeundo : and from the commencement of
thence returning to Rome, like Bacchanals, the Marsh to this Temple, and perhaps fur-
dMcing and singing to various instruments ther, appears to have ]l>een the site of Hanni'
oi'music. This festival commences with the bal'sCamp.
h
Ch. VI.] ANTIQUITIES NEAR ROME. . 189
Porta- Nomentana; because it led That part of the Ceiling nearest to
to Nomentum. the circular wall is adorned with
Chiesa di S, Agnese fuori di beautiful ancient Mosaics, repre-
Porta-Pia, This Edifice, which senting a Vintage, Birds, and Ara-
is about one mile from Rome, was besques ; and apparently executed
erected by Constantine over the when the arts were in their high-
grave of S. Agnes, at the desire est perfection. The porphyry Sar-
of his Daughter Constantia. A cophagus, ornamented wilh Bovs
Corridor, containing forty - five and Grapes, which is now in the
steps of fine marble, leads down Vatican Museum, was taken from
into the Church ; and on the Walls this Temple,
of this Corridor are ancient In- Adjoimng to the Church of S*.
scriptions. The Nave is supported Costanza are considerable remains
by sixteen antique Columns ; two of a Structure supposed to have
of which are pavonazzo, beauti- been a Hippodrome, built by Con-
fully fiuted; and the only specimen stantine^
of the kind now to be met with A little, further on, is the Villa-
at Rome. Four other Columns, Faonte, where it is believed that
near the High-altar, are of rare Nero put an end to his existence ;
marble ; and those which support and, about one mile from liiis
the Baldacchino are of the finest Villa, is the Ponte Lamentano, an-
porphyry. The High- altar is com- ciently Pons Nomentantts, near
posed of precious marbles, and which are remains of two Sepul-
enriched with two antique Cande- chres ; that on the left seems to
labra of bronze gilt ; under it lie have been the Tomb of Menenius
the ashes of S. Agnes. The Cha- Agrippa, and now serves as a
pel of the Madonna contains a shelter for oxen; the other is
beautiful antique Candelabrum, nearly destroyed. Immediately be-
and a Head of our Saviour, by hind these tombs rises, in an am-
Michael Angelo. phitheatrical form, the Mons Sacer;
Chiesa di /S«. Costanza. Near whither the Plebeians retired, in
the Church of S. Agnes is that the year of Rome 260, by the ad-
of S*. Costanza; dedicated, by vice of Sicinius ; tiU persuaded to
Constantine, to Christian worship, return, by the eloquence of the
that it mi^ht serve as a burial- above-named Menenius A^ippa:
place for his daughter. This ele- and whither they again retired, in
fant Rotondo, supposed to have the year of Rome 305, in conse-
een originally a Temple conse- quence of the tyranny of Appius
crated to Bacchus, still retains its Claudius.
ancient form. The Cupola is sup- Porta di S, Lorenzo, This
ported by twenty-four granite Co- Edifice, originally one of the ar-
lumns, placed in a double circle ; ches of the Martian, Tepulan,
and in the middle of the Church is and Julian aqueduct, was made
an elevated Platform, on which tlie into a City-gate by Aurelian ; who
Pagan Altar seems formerly to csL^ed it Porta- Collatina, because
have stood, and where the remains it leads to Collatia, where Lucretia
of S. Costanza afterwards rested, killed herself.
' (tt) Beyond the Church of S. Costanza, on antiquity; as the Aqua Martia is supposed
the right, in the Garden of the Villa-Ruffini, to have been conveyed to Rome from the
is a Columbarium, recently discovered, and Lake Fucinus, (above thirty miles distant,)
containing a large number of cinerary urns, by Ancus Martius. , .
human bones, and inscriptions. It appears (x) This Gate, according to the Inscription
to have been a public burial-place. it bears, must have been reconstructed by
(to) The Martian Aqueduct, an Etruscan Honorius.
work* merits notice, on account of its great
190 . ANTIQUITIES NEAR ROME. [Ch.Vt.
BoiiUea di S. totmzo. About given because the €k,te standi! in
one mile from the Gate of S. Lo- the road to S*. Maria Ma^ore.
renzo is this Church ; which was About three miles distant from
erected by Constantine on the the Forta-Majggiore, and parallel
jEbundations of a Temple conse- with the ancient Yia^Prsenestina,
crated to Neptune, of which there is a spot called Tor de" Schiavi;
are considerable and beautiful re- where, among other ruins, are re-
mains : namely, the six Pillars of mains of 'a Temple, the subtara-
the Portico, four of which are nean part of which particularly
fluted ; two Pillars of green por* merits notice.
ph5ny at the extremity of the Tri- Porta S, Giovanni. This Gate,
buna behind the High-altar ' ; four formerly called Celimontanoy from
of red porphyry, which support being placed on the Jlfon^-C^/tW,
the Baldacchino ; a fine antique was restored by Gregory XIII, ac-
Oomice round the Tribuna ; ten cording to the designs of Giacomo
fluted Columns of pavonazzo, della Porta. .
partly buried in the earth, two of The road beyond the Porta S.
them having MiUtary Capitals, Giovanni exhibits magnificent re-
the other eight Corinthian Capi- mains of the Claudian, Tepulan,
tals beautifully executed ; twenty- and Martian Aqueducts ; together
two Columns of oriental granite, with several ancient tombs: and
which support the Nave ; together previous to passing the Acqua
with some Very Ancient Pave- Santa, formerly cafled Salutare^
ment, and some of the time of we find a small, square, brick
Constantine. To the right, on en- Edifice, adorned with Doric Co-
tering the Church, is a Sarcopha- lumns, and supposed to have been
^s, ornamented with Bassi-rtlievi the Temple of Fm-tunee Muliebris
representing an ancient Marriage- erected by the Roman Senate, in
eeremony I and, behind the High- honour of the Roman Matrons, on
altar is another Sarcophagus with the spot where Vetuna and Yo-
Bacchanalian emblems. The ashes lumma overcame the determina-
of S. Lorenzo, and other Christian tion of Coriolanus '. This Temple
Martyrs, r&st here. is supposed to have been restored
Porta-Maggiore, This Gate, by Faustina the younger ; because
fbrmerly called Pramestina^ is one we see, on the reverse of her silver
of the arches of the CasteUum of medals, a figure of Fortune with
the Claudian Aqueduct, which con- this legend :
Teyed three streams of water to
Rome: two coming forty-five miles, FouTVNiK Mtlibbrt.
and the third above sixty. It is
practicable, by the aid of a ladder. Further on, to the right, and about
to ascend into this Aqueduct at ^ye miles from Rome, is a laige
the Gate of S. Lorenzo. The an- farm, belonging to the Torlonia
oient PortorPreenestina seems to family, and called Roma Vecchia ;
have been so called because it led but, probably, nothing more than
to Prseneste ; and the modem an ancient Roman Viuage ; (as the
name might, probably, have been suburbs of the City could scarce
{}/) The Lizard and the Prog of tlie Spar- Oitjr. on the road leading to Tnsenlnm :'* aad
tan arcbitects, already mentioned, are said the same writer adds, **that the Temple of
to be discoverable on one of the columns of Female Fortune was erected on tins spot, by
the Tribuna. the Roman Senate and People; and her Sta-
^ (z) Dionvsius of Halicamassns says, ** Co- tues, two in number. Cone presented by the
Yiolanus,wnen he threatened Rome the second Roman Ladies, the other by the SeiiAte wd
Unei encamped about thirty 9t«des from ttiat People,) placed in the Tem^e,"^
t^-'
Oh. VI J KOMft 191
have extended so far ; ) vvhere, ble ; ** and finom the rif^ht hand side
amone other ruins, are the remains marched out the Fabii ":' At each
of a Theatre, Diteta, and Reser- Gate a bronze statue of some god*
Toirs of Baths, one of them being or tutelar genius, seems to have
full of water: they precisely re- been placed: and Lucretius men-
semble the Sette Salle of the Baths tions that the right hands of these
of Titus'* Bevond these reser- statues were perceptibly worn by
yoirs, and still further to the right, the frequent kisses of passengers,
is a peculiarly shaped Tomb, which The Gates of Rome ai« now
belonged to the family of Coecilia twelve in number.
MeteUa.
WALLS OV HOHB.
OATBS Olf BOMB, KOT iaRBAl>Y
MBNTioicBD. The Original Walls of Rome, aa
we are toM by Dionysius of Hali-
Porta'Angelica, built by Pius camassus, were made with rough
IV. Near this Gate passed the stones' placed carelessly one upon
Via' Triumphalis, which came another: but Tarquinius Priscus
down from the Clivus CinntB, a erected Walls of stones cut square
Dart of the Janiculum, now called and smooth, each one being suffi-
Monte-Mario. ciently laroe to load a car. He
Porta^Latinat supposed to have likewise added to this defence an
been the Porta-Firentina, Aggers or broad Rampart of earth,
Porta-Pinciana^ said to have bordered by a deep and wide Ditch,
taken its name from the palace of Antiquaries have not been able to
the Pincion family which stood near ascertain the exact limits of hia^
it> and from whom the whole Hill Ag^er ; though vestiges of this'
was called Mons-Pincitu. fortification are said to exist on
Porta- Portese, so denominated the Quirinal Hill, to the north-
from the magnificent Harbour of east of Dioclesian's Baths. Ves-
Porto, constructed by Claudius, tiges of the Agger constructed by
The gardens, which Juhus Cessar Servius Tullius, (who enclosed the
bequeathed to the people, are sup- rest of the Quirinal, the Viminal,
S>sed to have been near this and the Esquiline Hills,) are, as
ate. already noticed, veiv apparent, un-
Poria (k S, Pancrasio, anci- der the Terrace of the Casino-Bar-
eaUy called AurelicL By this Gate berini, in the Domain of Sallust :
Trajan's Aqueduct enters Rome : and leading from the Iron Gate of
iur course is thirty-five miles ; and that Casino to the Mound called
in consequence of having been Campus Scderatus^ is another
renewed and augmented by Paid Rampart of earth, which seems to
V, it is now called Acqua-Paolo. have been either a continuation of
llie most frequented roads which Servius TuUius's Agger ^ or part of
kd to Rome are supposed to have that previously made by Tarquiniui
had double Gates ; one being al" Priscus. These Aggers probably
lotted to those persons who en« extended from the Salarian to the
ttred the City, and the other to Esquiline Gates ; because this
those who quitted it. Thus the quarter of Rome was, by nature,
ancient Carmental Gate was dou- undefended. Aurelian enclosed the
»
(a) Accordiag to lomA opinions tliese rnint phwi, have been found here,
made part of the aaeient Pagu» Lemonivi (b) The JfoM-PiactM and ^U(m-Mmt¥i^
j^t, according to others, they are nothing jonim are synonymous,
more than the remains of an immense Villa* (e) LlYlVti i» Si <r« 49.
Preeioiw marbles, stataesy busts, and saroo-
192 ROMB. ' [Oh. VI.
Campus Martius, and added con- converted into part of the City-
siderably to the extent of the City : walls by Constantine, or Honorius.
indeed, Vopiscus asserts, that Au- TheWalls near the Porta-Maggiore
relian's Wall was near fifty Roman .were probably built, or repaired
miles in circumference ^. How far during the thirteenth century, when
this assertion merits credit we have that Gate was formed out of one
no means of ascertaining : but the of the Arches of the Castellum of
present Walls of Rome are cer- the Claudian Aqueduct. TheWalls
tainly not more tlian firom fifteen extendMig from iheAnyi>hithecUrum
to sixteen Roman miles in circum- Castrense to the Porta S. Giovanni,
ference, comprehending that part and onward in that direction, are
erected by Leo IV, about the year supposed to be of the time of Ho-
850,to enclose the Afo««-Fa/«cawM*, nonus: as indeed are the greater
and secure S. Peter's against the part of the Walls which now sur-
incursions of the Saracens. Dio- round Rome : though, in some
nysius of Halicamassus records, places, and particularly between
that Rome, in the forty-seventh the Porta-Pia and the Porta S.
year after the expulsion of her Lorenzo, there are portions of
kings, was about the size of Athens, these Walls which bear the stamp
Phny mentions the Walls of the of very remote antiquity,
first-named city as being, in the
dajs of Titus, rather more than bridobs of Rome.
tlurteen Roman miles in circum-
ference; and, therefore, previous Pons jElius, now Ponte S.
to the extension of the Walls by Angela, This fine Bridge, con-
Aurelian, they could scarce have structed by the Emperor iEUus
contained above one million of Adrianus, and therefore called
person^! ; and consequently the au- Pons jElius, was repaired by Cle-
thors who compute the population ment IX, who, under the direction
of ancient Rome at four millions, of Bernini, added the Balus-
must have included the suburbs, trades and Statues, which still re-
which unquestionably were im- main.
mense *. Between the Porta del Pons Triumphaiis, so called, be-
Popolo and the Porta- Pinciana' cause the Roman generals passed
the present Walls seem to have over this Bridge, when they ob-
been repaired in the Saracenic tained the honour of a triumph,
manner ; from the Porta- Pinciana It is now destroyed ; but its re-
to the Porta-Salara they are sup- mains may be discovered between
posed to have been the work of the Castle of S. An^elo and the
Behsarius : between the Porta-Pia Church of S. Giovanni de* Fioren-
and the Porta S. Lorenzo they tini when the Tiber is low.
display a specimen of the style of Ponte Sisto, formerly called
buUding in the reign of Tiberius ; Pons Janiculensis, on account of
as, near the former Gate, there is its proximity to the Janiculum
in the Wall a Quadrangular Pro- Hill. According to some opinions,
jection, supposed to be remains of this Bridge was built by IVajan ;
Barracks erected by him for his and, according to others, by An-
Pretorian Guarils ', and afterwards toninus Pius. It was repaired by
t>(<0 Voptscns wag oontemporarjr with Aare- {f) Now closed up.
liaac but is supposed to be incorrect (^) Pan of the Cattrum Prtetorium may be
• (^ .Diooysius of Halicamassus says, ** It traced in a Vineyard adjoining to the Uity-
is difficnlt to.determine the extent of Rome, walls ; and seems to hare been in shape a
beoiiise the magnificent buildings on the sides parallelogram, surrounded by a double agger :
of the highways aeem to be a continued City." it had four entrances.
Ch.VI.]
ROME.
193
Sixtus IV, and, in consequence. Pons Subliciui. This Bridge,
called by his name. the first thrown over the Tiber,
Pons FabriciuSy now Ponte dei was the work of Ancus Martins ;
quattro Capi, This Bridge was and acquired the name of SublU
constructed, in the year of Rome dus from the wooden piles which
690, by Fabricius, Curator Viarum supported it. On this Bridge Ho-
(inspector of roads,) and called ratius Cocles stopped the army
Quattro Capi from foiu- Hermse of of Porsena, till the Romans had
Janus Quadrifrons, with which it broken down that part which was
was ornamented **. behind their gallant Leader ; who
Pons Cestius, now Ponte di S. then ttirew himself into the river,
Bartolommeo, This Bridge was and swam to Rome. After that
constructed by Cestius, m the event, the planks were laid across,
time of the Republic, and repjaired without bemg fixed with nails, that
about the year 367 of the Christian they might be removed, in case
era. of sudden danger. This Bridge
Pons PcdatinuSy or Senatorius, was repaired, under Augustus, by
broken down, and now called M. ^milius Lepidus; and after-
Ponte Rotto. This was the first wards by Antoninus Pius : but an
Edifice of its kind which the an- inundation, in the year 780, broke
cient Romans built of stone. The it down ; and under Nicolas V it
Censor Fulvius is supposed to was wholly destroyed. From this
have begun, and Scipio Africanus Bridge the bodies of Commodus
and L. Mummius to have finished and Heliogabalus were thrown into
it. Julius III, and Gregory XIII, the Tiber; and when that river is
repaired this Bridge ; but the ex- low, tiie remains of the Founda-
traordinary inundations of the Ti- tions of the Bridge may be seen
ber, during the middle of the six- from Ripa-grande.
teenth century, totally destroyed it.
(K) The four Herin» M'hicH originallr one or two, beio^ placed behind a door, it it
ornamented this Bridge may still be discovered not easy to find them,
l^ing on the ground in its yicinity ; thoagh
194
Chapter VII,
ROME.
BMilica di S. Pietto— Obelisk— Foxiiitaina— Colonnades— Covered Galleriea— Vestibnle— Kx-
terior dimensions and decorations of the Church— Interior dimensions, &c.~- Snbterranean
Chareh— Ascent to the Cupola and the top of S. Peter's— Old Sacristy— New Sacristy—
Vaticano — Museo-Chiaramontl— Mnseo Pio-Clementino — Libreria Vaticano — Chiesa della
Trinitk de' Monti — Obelisk— Chiesa dei P. P. Cappnccini — Palaazo-Barberini— Chiesa di
S«. Maria della Vittoria— Fontanadi Termine— Chiesa di S. Andrea— Palaiio-Pontificlo —
Palazzo-Rospigliosi — Garden of ditto — ^Fonttoa di IVeTi — Chiese di S*. Maria del PopoW
-^S. Carlo al Corso—S. Lorenzo in Lucina— S. Ignazio— de* S. S. Apostoli— di S*. MariA
.-^ Loretto— Qes<k--S. Andrea della Valle— delU Trihitk de* Pelefrini— di S. Carlo a
Catenani— S. Oioyanni de* Fioreniini-S*. Maria in Vallicella— S*. Maria della Pace— S«
Agostino'-Palaiai Borffaese — Seiarra — ^Doria — ^Bracciano — Colonna — Qinstiniaili — Chies*
di S. Lnigi di Francia — Palazzi Massimi — Braschi — ^Famese — Spiada — Mattei— Costa*
futi — ^Falconieri— Famesina — Corsini — ^Accademia di S. Laca — ^Hospitals — ^Mosaic Ma-
nufacture—Artists — ^Medical Men — Bankers — Theatres — Carnival — Festival on the Monte-
Testaccio— Amusements during Lent — Ceremonies of the Holy Week— Easter-day— •
other Days on which the Pope officiates in public — Entertainments given to the Em-
peror of Austria — Protestant Chapel — ^Hotels — ^List of Objects best worth notice, as they
lie eontiguous to each other — Promenades — Villas Oligiati, Boi^hese, Ludovisia, Albani,
and Mattel— Church of S. Onofrio—Fontana-Paolina— Villas Doria-Pamfili, Madam**
and Mellini.
Basilica di S. Pietro, '^. Pb- hundred men and one hundred
ter's is placed on the summit of and sixty horses, the Work was
a gentle acclivity, in an immense not accomplished under eight days:
Piazza of an oval form, once the and to transport the Obelisk to
Circus of Nero. Its centre is the place where it now stands;
adorned with an Obelisk of red though only- three hundred paces
Egyptian .Granite ; the only one from the spot where it lay, cost
at Home which has been preserved four months' labour^ But the
entire : it was transported from greatest proof of Fontana's skill in
Heliopolis to Ostia by order of mechanics was displayed when he
Caligula; and afterwards placed, elevated this stupendous mass,
by Nero, in his Circus * : it mea- and fixed it in its present situation,
sures one hundred and twenty-six by the add of machines consisting
Paris feet from the ground to tiie of fifty-two powers, all of which
top of the cross ; and was erected were applied at the same moment,
by Sixtus V, under the direction in obedience to preconcerted sig-
of Fontana ; who, in order to nals. Having oeen raised to a
raise it out of the earth in which proper height, it was placed,
it lav buried, contrived forty- one amidst the acclamations of the
i&achines with strong ropes and people and the discharge of cannon
iron rollers ; and though all the from the Castle of S. Angelo, on
powers of these macmnes were the backs of four lions, without
4t>plied at once, by means of eight any cement; its own weight being
(0 This Obelisk is a single piece of gra- Nuncoreus, the son of Sesostris; and dedi-
nite, seventy-six Pans feet in length, but cated, by Caligula, to Angnstns and Tiberias,
without hieroglyphics; it was cut out of the The dimensions of the vessel which conveyed
quarries of byene, erected at Heliopolis by it to Rome are giyen by Pliny, X46.X6, Cop. 40.
Ch. VII.J ROME. 195
suflacient to ensure it from falling, on the summit of a noble flight of
Keport says, however, that Fon- steps, adorned with Statues of S
tana nearly miscarried in this last Peter and S. Paul, by Mino di
operation ; the ropes having Resole. The Vestibule (which is
stretched so much more than he four hundred and thirty-nine Paris
expected, that the Obelisk could feet in length, by thirty-seven wide
iiot have been raised high enough and sixty-two high) contains
to rest on its pedestal, if an Eng- Equestrian Statues of Constantine
lish sailor, at a time when everjr and Charlemagne '^ ; together with
spectator was restricted from a celebrated Mosaic, by Giotto,
speaking, lest the signals should called La Namcella di S. Pietro.
not be heard by the workmen, had The Front of the Basilica, three
not, in defiance to this order, hundred and seventy Paris feet in
called out— "Wet the ropes;" length, and one hundred and forty-
which was accordingly done, and nine in height, was built according
the Obelisk in consequence raised to the designs of Cajrlo Mademo ;
to its destined height. One of the and is ornamented with immense
beautiful Fountains of this Piazza Corinthian Columns and Pilasters
was erected by Innocent VIII i of travertino ; each Column be-
the other by Clement X; and ing eight feet three inches in dia-
the Colonnades (a master-piece meter, and eighhr-e^t feet high,
of architecture) were built by base and capital inclusive. TRie
Bernini, during the Pontificate of front is terminated with a Balus-
'Alexander VII. Their form is trade surmounted by thirteen co-
semi-circular ; and they consist of losSal Statues, seventeen feet in
two hundred and eighty-four large height, and representing our Sa-
Doric Columns of travertine, in- viour and the Apostiea.' The
termixed with Pilasters, and form- Basso-rilievOy under the Bkl^ony
in^, on each side of the Piazza, a in the centre of the building, is by
Tnple Portico, that in the centre Buonvicino, and represents ouf
being sufficiently spacious for two Saviour giving the keys to S.
carriages to pass each other. The Peter. 'Die Centre Boor of the
height of these Colonnades is six- Church is bronze, ornamented
ty-one Paris feet, the breadth fifly- with BasH-rilievi ; and was made
six, and on the entablature is a Ba- during the Pontificate of Eugenius
lustrade ornamented with one hun- IV ; and over ttiis Door is a Basso"
dred and ninety-two statues, each rilievo, by Bernini, representhig
being* about eleven feet and a half our Saviour intrusting the care (3
in height. The Fountains were his Flock to S. Peter. The cir-
made after the designs of Carlo cumstance of that Apostle having
Mademo ; they throw a consider- been buried in the Circus of Nero
able body of water nme feet high ; induced Constantine to erect, over
and the circular Basins which re- his remains, a spacious Church ;
ceive this water are entire pieces which, after standing eleveh cen-
of oriental granite, fifty feet in turies, at length fell into decay, and
circumference. Beyond the Co- Nicholas V began to re-build it,
lonnades are two magnificent co- about the year 1450, according td
yered Galleries, or Cloisters, each the plans of Rosellini send Albert! :
three hundred and sixty Paris feet his successors, however, diseoiH
in length, and leading to the Ves- tinned the work, till the PontificaVe
tibule of ihe Basilica, which stands of Paul II, under whom it was re-
(ft) The statue of Charlemagne is by Aeostino Comacchmi, aad that
of Constantine by Bernini.
o 2
19a ROME* [Ch.VII.
sumed. Julius II (elected Pope the height, from the Pavement to
about thirty years after the death the first Gallery, one hundred and
of Paul) chose the famous Bra- seventy-four, to the second Gallery,
mante as his architect ; who form- two hundred and forty, to the re-
ed the design of erecting a Cupola presentation of the Deity in the
in the centre of the Edifice. On Lantern, three hundred and ninety-
the demise of Julius and Bra- three, and to the summit of the
mante, Leo X intrusted the work exterior Cross, four hundred and
to Raphael, and other persons: forty-eight feet*. So admirably
after their death Paul III chose proportioned is this Basilica, that,
Sangallo as his architect; and upon notwithstanding its immense size,
the decease of this artist, com- no person, at first sight, perceives
Qiitted the work to Michael An- the dimensions to be remarkably
gelo, who made a new design for large ; and the Statues of Children,
tne Cupola : he likewise intended which support the Vases for holy
to have erected a portico, resem- water, do not appear more than
bling that of the Pantheon ; but three feet in height, though they
death frustrated his purpose. Sue- are really gigantic. The interior
ceeding architects, however, were of this master-piece of human ge-
directed to go on with his Cupola ; nius is incrusted with rare and
which was completed during the beautiful marbles, adorned with
Pontificate of Sixtus V. Carlo the finest Pictures in Mosaic exist-
Mademo finished the other part of ing, and supported by an immense
the BasUica, in the Pontificate of number of magnificent Columns^
Paul V ; and Pius VI erected the the greater part of which are an-
new sacristy. Michael Angelo in- tique ; and seven, if report speak
tended to have built S. Peter's in true, were taken fi*om Solomon's
the form of a Greek cross ; but Temple. The Pavement is marble.
Carlo Mademo followed the plan and veiy handsome,
of Bramante, and made a Latin Tlie Sacra Confessione was de-
one. In tiie year 1694, this Edi- signed by Carlo Mademo, and is
fice was supposed to have cost encircled by a beautiful Balustrade,
47,000,000 Roman crowns ; and composed of splendid marbles, and
much more has been since ex- decorated with above an hundred
pended for the Mosaics, the new superb and elegant Lamps, which
Sacristy, ^c, are always burning. A Double
The interior length of S. Peter's Staircase leads down to the interior
from the Entrance-door to the end part ; which is incrusted with a
of the Tribuna, is six hundred and profusion of precious marbles, and
fourteen English feet ; the breadth embellished by Statues of S. Peter
of the Nave two hundred and seven, and S. Paul, and other appropriate
the breadth of the Cross seventy- ornaments : but here, in 1822, was
nine, the diameter of the Cu- erected (to tlie regret of every per-
pola one hundred and thirty-nine, son of taste "*) a semi-colossal
(0 These dimensions are taken from a Ma- hundred and six feet, and their height one
Buscript, hnng up in the lower gallery of the hundred and sixty-six feet— the diameter of
Capola. ^ the Cupola one hundred and thirty feet — and
According to Vaei, the interior length, from the height, from the pavement under the Cu-
the Entrance of the Basilica tor that part of pola to the extremity of the cross on its sum-
the Tribnna immediately below the Chair of mit, four hundred and twenty-four feet.
S. Peter, is, Paris feet, five hundred and (w) It is said that Canova shed tears on
aeventy-five— the breadth of the Great Nave being directed to place the Statue in its pre-
eighty-two feet, and its height one hundred sent situation. The remains of Pius VI, iUus-
and forty-two— the breadth of each Side Aisle trious for the patience and resignation he dis-
twen^r reet— the circnmference of each of the played in adversity, have been lately deposited
four Pillars which support the Cupola two near the Cappella deUa Sacra Con&MlOBe.
Ch.VIl.3 ROME. nt
statue, by Canova, of Pius VI ; Spaniard, Pygmalion like, is said
representing the Pontiff on his to have fallen in love with this
knees before the magnificent Gates Statue ; in consequence of which
of bronze gilt which enclose what it was clothed with a bronze gar-
ought, properly speaking, to be ment. Near the Tribuna is the
called the Sacra Confesstone; be- Tomb of Alexander VIII, adorned
cause it is part of the ancient Ora- with a beautiful Basso-rilievo, by
tory built over the grave of S. Angelo Rossi; and over the Altar
Peter ; and in this small Chapel of S. Leo the Great, between Co-
rest the mortal remains of that lumns of red oriental granite, is an
Apostle. The sumptuous Baldac- Alto-rilievo of that Pope threaten-
chino which canopies the High- ing Attila, King of the Huns, with
altar was erected by Urban VIII, the vengeance of S. Peter and S.
after the designs of Bernini ; and Paul, by Algardi I ! Near this
is made of bronze gilt, and near Altar are two fine Mosaics •» ; the
ninety feet high. The designs for one, representing the Crucifixion of
the Mosaics in the Cupola under S.* Paul, being a copy fi*om a cele-
which the Baldacchino stands, brated picture, by Guido ; the other
were drawn by Giuseppe d'Arpino ; representing the Fall of Simon
and the Evangelists particularly Magus, fi*om a celebrated picture
merit notice ; as do the Statue of by Francesco Vanni. Further on
S. Andrew near the High-altar, is a Mosaic of Raphael's Trans-
by Du Quesnoy, and that of S. figuration ; and near it the Tomb
Bomenico, by Le Gros. The of Leo XI, by Algardi. On this
bronze Statue of S. Peter is said to side of the Church is the Cappella
have been cast during the Pontifi- del Coro, where the Cardinals,
cate of Gregory the Great, from Canons, ^c, assemble daily, to at-
the fragments of a demolished tend divine worship; ana where
statue of Jupiter Capitolinus. At there is particularly good music,
the upper end of the middle Nave Not far hence, over a door lead-
is the Tribuna, decorated accord- ing to one of the Organ-lofts, in
ing to the designs of Michael An- an unomamented tomb, rest the
gelo ; and containing the Chair of remains of Pius VII — perhaps the
8. Peter ; above which the Holy most amiable and exemplaiv So-
Ghost is represented in painted vereign who ever occupiea the
glass, in the form of a Dove. On Papal throne I and over the door
each side of the Tribuna is a mag- which leads to the Cupola is a
nificent Monument ; that on the Monument to the memory of Ma-
right, by Bernini, being in memory ria- Clementina Sobieski, with her
of Urban VIII, (whose Statue is Picture copied in Mosaic by the
finely executed in bronze;) and Cav. Cristofari, from a painting by
that on the left designed by Mi- Sterne. The last Chapel on this
chael Angelo, and executed by side contains the Baptismal Font,
Guglielmo della Porta, in memory originally the Tomb of the Emperor
of Paul III : I ! it represents Pru- Otho II ; it is of pbrphyiy, with
dence as an old woman, and Jus- bronze ornaments, executed by
tice as a girl, so beautiful that a Fontana. Over the Altar in this
(n) These Mosaics, called Roman^ consist calcined marble, fine sand, g^nm-tragacanth,
of small pieces of glass (some of them beinv whites of eggs, and oil; which composition
scarcely larger than pins' heads) tinctured continues, for some time, so soft, that_ there is
with aU the different degrees of colour neces- no difficulty either in arranging the pieces, or
sary to form a picture : and, when the mosaics altering any which may have been improperly
are finished, they are polished in the same placed-: but, by decrees, it grows as hard as
manner as mirrors. The ground on which marble; so that no impression can be made qh
those Yitreons particles aro placed consists of the work^
•a.
198 ROME, [Ch.VII.
Chapel ifl a fine Mosaic, copied recumbent Statues of two Lions
from a celebrated picture by Carlo are admirably executed, and espe-
Maratta, representing the baptism cially that which sleeps. Further
of our Saviour. On the opposite on is a copy, in mosaic, of Guidons
side of the Church is a Cnapel chef-d'oeuvre, the Arch-Angel Mi-
containing a Pieta by Michael chael, and likewise a copy, in mo-
Angelo, which not bemg equally sale, of Guercino^s celebrated pic-
colossal wiUi alnM)st every other ture, representing the Story of S.
surrounding object, appears to dis- Petroniua. Tliis is deemed the
advantage : the Frescos here are finest Mosaic in S. Peter's ; and
by Lanfranco : on this side, like- was executed by the Cav. Cristo-
wise, is a Chapel containing a fan. Beyond the Altar of S. Pe-
Column, said to be that against tronilla is the Monument of Cle-
which our Saviour leaned when he ment X, whose Statue was done
disputed with the Doctors ; and a by Ercole Ferrata : opposite to
Sarcophagus which once enclosed this Tomb is a cop^r, in mosaic, of
the asnes of Probus Anicius, Pre- S. Peter raising Tabitha, by Placido
SgMstofRome. The Braschi-Cha- Costanza. The ten Mosaics in the
pel contains a Crucifix, by Ghir- small Cupolas are executed after
landajo. Further on, toward the the designs of celebrated painters.
high-altar,is the Tomb of Christina Under S. Peter's is a subterra-
of Sweden bv Fontana ; and over pean Church, built by Constantine,
the altar of the Chapel of S. Se- into which ladies are not usually
bastiano is a fine Mosaic of the allowed to descend without permis-
Martyrdom of that Saint, copied sion from the Pope ; this permis-
from a celebrated picture, by Do- sion, however, may easily be ob*
menichino. Beyond this Chapel is tained.
the Tomb of the Countess Matilda At the entrance of the circular
(who died in 1115,) by Bernini; Corridor of the subterranean
and opposite to the Cappella ddl Church is the already mentioned
Coro is the Cappella dd Sacra- Cappdla della Sacra Confessione :
mento, which contains a rich Ta- it stands immediately under the
bemade, made after the designs of High- altar of the new Church ;
Bernini, and an Altar-piece painted and was ornamented by Clement
in fresco by Pietro da Cortona; VIII with precious marbles, and
here, likewise, is the Tomb of Six- twenty- four bronze Bcusi-rilievi^
t\xslYtinhrotae,yfiihBa$si-rilievi representing memorable Events in
by Antonio Poll^uolo. Further the Lives of S. Peter and S. Paul,
on is the Tomb of^ Gregory XIII, whose Portraits, painted on silver,
adorned by Statues of Religion and adorn its Altar. Opposite to this
Energy, the latter of which is much Chapel is the Sarcophagus of Ju-
admired ; and near this Monument nius Bassus, Prefect of Rome ;
is a beautiful copy, in mosaic, of who died in the year 359.' Here,
Domenichino*a chef-doBuvre, the likewise, are several other Tombs ;
Communion of S. Girolamo ; for namely, that of Charlotte, Queen
which picture he received only of Jerusalem and Cyprus ; that of
three crowns. Further on, is a the Stuarts ; and those of Adrian
copy, in mosaic, of the Martyrdom IV, Boniface VIII, Nicholas V,
of S. Erasmus, by Nicolas Pons- Urban VI, and Pius II. Here,
sin. Nearer stLLl to the Tribuna is also, are a considerable number of
a copy, in mosaic, of S. Peter Statues ; and among them one of
sinking, by Lanfranco : and oppo- S. Peter; together with Basst-ri^
site to this Mosaic is the Monument lievi, ancient Mosaics, and interest-
of Clement XIII, by Canova, The ing Inscriptions. The height of
Oh.Vn;l BOME. 199
the subterranean Ohureh n between marble, Pilisters and Busts. Op«
eleven and twelve English feet; posite to the Door of the great
and the Pavement the same as in Sacristy (on the landing-place of a
the days of Constantine. staircase), stands a Statue of Pius
The Door under the monument VI. The great Sacristy is an octa*
of Maria- Clementina Sobiesld, (in gon, about fifW feet m diameter,
the upper Church,) leads to a ornamented with antique Colunms
Staircase, consisting of one hun* andPilasters, which support a Cur
dred and forty-two steps,' by which pola ; and its Chapel contains four
mules might mount nearly to the Columns of bardiglio di Carrara.
i(^ of the Edifice— so easy is the The SacrisW of the Canons is fur-
ascent — and on one of the landing- nished wim Presses of Brazil-
places the Custode of the Cupola wood ; and contains a Picture, by
may usually be found. It is im- Francesco Penni, of S. Ajine, ^. ;
possible to form a just, idea of the another, by Giulio Romano, of the
size of this wonderful Basilica, Madonna, our Saviour, and S.
withoutseeing the upper part; and John; aiul two Paintings by Ca-
equally impossible to . appreciate vallucci. Another Apar&nent con-
the architectural merit of the great tains lectures of the ancient Flo-
Cupola without examining its con- rentine School, two Paintings, by
struction. This stujiendous fabric Ghezzi, a dead Christ, attributed to
(which rises, measuring to the ex- Michael Angelo, a Picture, by
tremity of the Cross on the Ball, Muziani, and two Paintings by
near three hundred English feet Cavallucci'*.
above the level of the platfwm on VaHoano. Some writers sup-
the top of the Church) is double ; pose this Palace to have been
and by means of Staircases, be- erected by Nero, and afterwards
tween the exterior and interior bestowed, by Constantine, upon the
Walls, it is not difficult to ascend Roman Pontiff ; while others are
into the lantern; the Ball on the of opinion that it was built by Con-
top of which measures twenty-four stantine on the site of the Gardens
feet in circumference. of Nero : it seems to have received
The old SacrUty of S. Peter's augmentations from almost eveiv
(a rotondo) is supposed to have succeeding Sovereign; insomucn
been a Temple of Apollo, which that its present circumference is
stood at the side of Nero's Circus ; computed to be near seventy thou-
the new SacrUty was built, by sand feet. The Saala Regia, or
order of Pius Y X, after the designs great Staircase, at the foot of which
of Carlo Marchionni; andcommu-- stands the Statue of Constantine,
nicates with the Basilica by means was constructed by Bernini ; and
of two Corridors : it is divided into leads to t?ke Sola Regia^ built by
nearly equal parts ; one serving for San^allo, and containing Frescos,
a Sacristy, the other being appro- withLatin inscriptions, explanatoiy
priated to the Canons. In the of the subjects. The first painting
Vestibule is a Statue of S. Andrew, over the Staircase-door represonts
togetiber with Columns and Pilas- Charlemagne signing the Donation
ters of red (Hriental granite. This of the Church, and is by Taddeo
apartment leads to tmree Galleries, Zuccari ; anotlier represents the
chaining fine Columns of African Entry of Gregory XI into Rome,
(o) Th« expttise of seeing the wkole of S. cristan ; and he doee aot exj^ect more than
Peter's, (the subterraaeaa Church iaolaaive.) two pauU. At S. Peter's it u advisable to
amoaats to several pauls ; as t^ere are three appoint the Sacristans a daj beforehuid, ^yid
or foar Sacristans, each of whom expects a liKewise at small, unfrequented Churches.
Am. la other iShiurobes there ie bat on« Sa-
&00 ROME. [CkVII.
accompanied by S. Catherine of Sistina, contains magnificent Plate
Siena, and is by Vasari : another, and Jewels,
over the Door leading to the Cap- The Ceiling of the Sola Du-'
pella-Paolina, is divided into three cole is decorated with Arabesques,
parts ; that to the right represents by Lorenzino da Bologna, and
Gregoiy VII withdrawing tne Cen- Raphaellino da Reggio.
sures cast on Henry IV, ia the The Loggia, or open Gallery,
Fortress of Canossa ; and that on above the Sola DucalSy leads to
the left the City of Tunis recon- the Stanze di Eafaello ; and is
quered under Charles V ; the third embellished with Arabesques, in-
represents Victory and Glory, terspersed with Scripture-Histo-
These paintings are by Taddeo and ries, by that great artist and his
Federico Zuccari. scholars. Some of the finest of
The CappellaSistiTia, adjoin- these Frescos are, God dividing
ing to the Sala Regia, was built the Light fi-om the Darkness, by
by Sixtus IV, according to the Raphael; Joseph explaining his
designs of Baccio Pintelh of Flo- Dreams, by Giulo Romano; Jo-
rence, and its Ceiling painted by seph sold to the Ishmaelites ; Jo-
Michael An^lo in twenty months, seph explaining the Dreams of
so entirely without assistance, that Pharaoh ; and the Baptism of the
even the coloiurs he used were pre- Saviour, by Raphael. * The greater
pared by. himself. The R-ophets part of the small BasH'tilievi in
and Sibyls, the figure of the Deity, this Gallery are antique, and sup-
and those of Adam and Eve, are posed to have been taken firom the
admirable, almost super-human 1 1 ! Colosseum,the Baths of Caracalla,
The Last Judgement, likewise by and the VUla of Adrian : and as
Michael Angelo, occupies the this is the only Loggia of the Va-
whole Wall l^hind the Altar: he tican adorned by the pencil of Ra-
was three years in doing it ; and phael, his Bust, executed by Sig.
parts of this immense Fresco are Alessandrod'Este, has been placed
wonderfully fine. The other WaJls here.
are adorned with Frescos, repre- The Stanze di RafaeUo contain
senting Scripture-histories, by Fie- some of the very finest Frescos
tro Perugino, spd his Florentine existing; but the injuries these
contemporaries^^ The Heads, by Apartments have received from
Porugino, are fine. time, and still more firom the
Opposite to the Cappella-Sistina smoke made in them by German
is the Cappella'Paolxnay erected soldiers, when Rome was taken by
by Paul III, after the designs of assault, A. D. 1528, has rendered
Sangallo. The two Columns of the Paintings in question less
porj^yry, on the sides of the al- striking, at first sight, than many
tar, were found in the Temple of other trescos : indeed Cignani, a
Romulus ; and toward the end of celebrated artist, admired them so
each are two Infants in basso-ri- little, on a cursory view, that
lievo. The Statues in the angles Carlo Maratta, provoked by his
are by Prospero Bresciano. The want of penetration, requested
Paintmgs, which i-epresent the himtocopy one oftheheadsin the
Conversion of S. Paul, and the Fire of the Borgo. Cignani began :
Crucifixion of S. Peter, are by rubbed out; began again; and
Michael Angelo ; and the Fall of again rubbed out ; till, at length,
Simon Maeus, Friezes, and Oma- aner several fi*uitless attempts he
ments of the ceiling are by Fede- threw awav his i)encil, exclaiming,
rico Zuccari. « Raphael is inimitable !"
The Sacristy, near the Cappella- The Stanze di Ba/aellp fire four
Ch,Tir.] ROME, 201
in number; namely, the Sola di action, the Baptistery, built by
Costantino ; the Sala dEliodoro ; Constantine, after he had em-
the Sala delta Scuola di Atene; braced Christianity, and sup-
and the Sola di tincendio. The posed to be that of S. Giovanni
Apartment leading to them con- m Laterano. The fomth Picture,
tams Frescos by Raphael, repre- which was coloured by; Rirfaello
senting the Apostles ; andtheCha- del Colle, is the Donation of the
pel of Nicholas V, painted by Patrimony of the Church, by Con-
Angelo di Fiesole, the pupil of stantine. The composition is ad-
Masaccio. mired ; but the figures of Con-
The Hall of Constantine was stantine and the Pope are said
designed by Raphael, and coloured, to want majesty. This Picture
after his decease, by his scholars ; abounds with episodes ; namely,
the figures of Justice and Be- Soldiers driving the Spectators
nignity excepted, which he had back between the Columns; a
just finished in oil, (the manner in Beggar imploring Charity, and
which he had made preparations a Father and Son answering him ;
for painting the whole of this side a Woman with her back only vi-
of the HcQl,) when death put a sible, who leans upon two other
period to his labours. The first Women, in order to see the Cere-
Picture, on the right, represents mony; and a Child mounted on
Constantine addressing his TVoops a Dog. The eight Pontiffs, on the
before the Battle with Maxentius, sides of these Pictures, were all
and was coloiu-ed by Giulio Ro- coloured by Giulio Romano, ex-
mano. Raphael has taken the cept the Head of S. Urban, which
moment when the Cross appears was done by Raphael. In the
in the air, supported by Angels, second room is a Picture which
who are supposed to be saying to represents Heliodorus, Prefect of
Constantine, ** Conquer by this." Seleucus Philopater, King of Sy-
The Dwarf of Julius II, putting on ria, who came to pillage the Tem-
a helmet, forms an absurd episode pie at Jerusalem, thrown down and
in the picture. The next Paint- vanquished by two Angels and a
ing is the Battle of Constantine, Warrior on Horseback; whom
fought against Maxentius, near God sent to the aid of his High
the Ponte Molle, A. D. 312: it Priest Onias ; a circumstance re-
was coloured by Giulio Romano, corded in the second Book of
who, respectfully leaving untouched Maccabees. This Picture is ex-
the two Virtues already painted in tremely admired ; especially the.
oil by his great master, executed Angels, who are pursuing Heli-
the rest of the work in fiasco : odorus with such rapidity that
and, according to general opinion, they seem to fly. The Warrior on
this is one of the very finest pic- Horseback is strikingly fine : the
tures in the first class of great Temple appears swept of the
works. Thfe most striking Groups people in a moment ; while, in the
are, an Old Soldier raising his back-ground, Onias is discovered,
dying Son ; two Soldiers fighting, at the Altar, invoking Heaven,
in the same part of the Picture ; The episode of Julius ll, coming
and in the opposite part, Maxen- into the Temple on mens' shoul-
tius in the Tiber, vainly struggling ders, appears to have been a
to extricate himself. The third foolish whim of his, with which
Picture is the Baptism of Constan- Raphael was unfortunately obliged
tine, by Pope S&vester ; and was to comply, by way of represent-
coloured by Francesco Penni. Ra- ing that Julius, like Onias, deli-
phael has chosen, for the scene of vered the Church from its op-
20a ROME. [Ch.VIL
pressors. The Pope'sr Chair«< copied from Trajan's CoIubui. The
bearer, on the left, is a Portrait of fourth Picture in this room was
Giulio Romano, The Principal coloured by Raphael, and repre-
Figures in this Picture were co- sents S. Peter dehvered from Pyir
loured by Raphael ; the Group, in son by an Angel : it contains tk
which several Females are inteo-^ double action, — ^first, S, Peter, in
duoed, by Pietro da Cremona ; and Prison, waUed by the Angel ; and,
the remaining part, by Giuho secondly, S. Peter, going out of
Romano. In the same room is Prison, conducted by the Angel«
another Picture, called the Miracle The Apostle's figure is not ^d-
of Bolsena: it was coloured by mired; but that of the Angel is
Raphael ; and represents a Priest charming } and the manner in
who doubted the real presence of which the lights are managed i^
our Saviour in the Eucharist ; till inimitable. The Ceiling of this
being on the point of consecrating apartment was painted, in chiaro-
the Wafer, he saw blood drop from scuro, by Raphael, The third
it. This picture is much admired ; room contains a Picture, coloured
and was extremely difficult to com^ by Raphael, and called the School
pose ; from being painted round a of Athens ; though it representfi
window, which cuts it nearly in Philosophy in general; and is,
half. Julius II is again brought with regard to expression and
forward in an episode ; and £up^ scholastic knowledge, a wonderful
posed to be hearing mass ; but as work ; for every Philosopher, by
the Head of the Church is not to his posture and gestures, charao^
question the real presence in the terizes his doctrines and opinions,
Eucharist, he testifies no surprise The scene is laid in a magnificent
at the Miracle ; though the people, building, imitated from the original
in general, express great astonish* designs which Bramante and Mi-
ment ; in which the Swiss Guards chael Angelo made for the Basi^
coldly participate. The colouring lica of S. Pietro in Vaticano. Be-
of the Picture and the heads of ginning with the Ionian School,
the Cardinals, the Pope, and th^ on the right, before the Statue pf
Priests saying mass, are much ad- Minerva, the Aged Person whose
mired. The third Painting in this head is covered with linen, after
Chamber, (celebrated for its com- the Egryptian manner, is Thales ;
position and ^oups of figures,) whom Raphael has represented as
represents Attila, King of the walking with a Stick, because,
Huns, advancing against Rome, with that, he measured the Pyra-
and discovering, in the air, S. mids. Next to Thales is Arche-
Peter and S. Paul descending to laus of Messenia, pictured as being
arrest his progress. Raphael has in motion ; because he, like Thales,
chosen the moment when the was a great Traveller. Behind
Apostles are not discovered by the these Philosophers is Anaxagoras^
Army in general, but by Attila almost hidden ; in reference to the
alone. Pope S. Leo appears on a persecutions he underwent Thji
mule, followed by Cardinals ; but next figure, standing alone, at a
Attila attends only to the Apos- little distance from this group, to
ties. The figure which repre- shew that he is of another School,
sents S. Leo is a Portrait of represents Pythagoras ; who seenu9
J^eo X ; and the Mace-bearer, on resolved to continue fixed to on^
the white horse before the Pope, spot, to shew the unchangeable-
is a Portrait of Rarfiael's master, ness of his ideas. The conceal-
Pietro Perugino. The two Sar- ment of his hands in his mantlQ
n^atian Horsemen, near Attila, are 'refers to the secrecy he eiyomed|
y
Ch.VIL] ROME. tos
imd perhaps his betn^ bare-footed Plato and Aristotle are placed to-
may allude to liis having worn the gether in the centre of the Picture:
costume of an Egyptian priest : Plato holds the 'Hmseus : his sub*
his head and body being turned lime style is expressed by his atti-
different ways shews his metaphori. tude,' denoting, that -his thoughts
cal method of teaching important soar above this earth ; and the
truths ; and the crown, formed by Cord attached to his neck marks
his hair, refers to his initiation in aU his initiation at the Eleusinian
mysteries. The Figure leaning on Mysteries. The figure is copied
a Column is Parmenides ; close to from his portrait done by Nean-
whom sits his adopted Son, Zeno» thes; and displays the uncom-
who is represented as a Youth ; mon size of his shoulders ; from
the acuteness of his countenance which circumstance he acquired
alludes to his subtilty. Parme* the name of Plato. The Figure
nides appears to be watching Zeno; in shade, nearest to Plato, is
who (from the position in which Arcothaea, a female disciple. The
he sits) is writing somethingshort; next Figure, in the same line,
referring to a Poem, by Parme- indicates roughness of character,
nides, which compared, in two and represents Xenocrates ; whom
hundred lines, all the various Plato advised to sacrifice to the
Systems of Philosophy. Two mas* Graces : the next is Glaucon ; and
ters only of the Eleahc School are the next Speusippus ; who erected
introduced ; because its followers statues to the Graces, and is re-
were few in number. The meta- presented as a graceful person
physics of Parmenides and Zeno himself. The next Figure is Las-
gave rise to the Sceptical t^hiloso- thenia, a female disciple, to whom
phy of Pyrrho, expressed by the Speusippus was attached ; shewn
next Figure, who appears doubtful by his putting his arm round her
which way to fgo; and whose neck. Behind Lasthenia and Socra-
countenance and position denote tes is Zeno of Citium, the founder
the conflicts which spring from of the sect called Stoics : he seems
Scepticism : he is stopping, by his wrapt in severe self-contemplation ;
y^emence, another person from and this figure exhibits the por-
ascending the steps on which he trait of Flaminius of Ravenna,
stands. At the opposite side of Raphael's Landlord, of Stoic pro-
the Picture, talkmg with his bity. Behind is Antisthenes, in
fingers to a Figure in Armour, shade, because his School is ex-
supposed to represent Alcibiades, pressed by that of Zeno. On the
is Socrates, known by his face, side of Aristotle, the tallest and
(which resembles that given to most conspicuous Figure is Theo-
Silenus :) he, like Thales, appears phrastus ; to whose care we are
to be walking; because geometry indebted for the Works of the Phi-
was never taught in a fixed place, losopher of Stagira. Theophrastus
Near him is a person partly hiding died in the hundred and seventh
himself, supposed to represent year of his age, complaining that
Critias ; as the air and features nature granted longevity to crows
express Cruelty, and Revenge, well and stags, but denied it to man.
suited to his character. Another This is said to be the Portrait of
Figure in this Group isPhsedon, Cardinal Bembo. The next Fi-
known by his fine countenance ; gure of this group is Strato of
and a little behind stands Xeno- Lampsacus, successor to Theo-
phon; who appears to be calling phrastus; the next Demetrius Pha-
to his Son, Gryllus, a Youthful lereus, who had three hundred and
Figure with his hand on his head, sixty bronze statues raised to lus
204 ROME. [Ch. Vir.
honour ; the next Callisthenes ; tal costume represents one of the
the next Neophron ; the next (with Magi, from which sect the Grecian
a beard) Glycon, whose counte- Schools derived part of their doc-
nance indicates sweetness of dis- trines. Behind Empedocles is Epi-
position, and whose back is turned charmus, whose doctrines coincided
on Heraclides, the last Figure of with those of Empedocles ; and
this Group. The two Figures be- who has a cunning look, as de-
hind the disciples of Aristotle are scribed by Cicero. The Figure in
Euclid of Megara, and Eubulides a toga, is Lucretius, plac^ near
ofMiletus,his pupil: the last hated Empedocles, as having been his
Aristotle, and is looking angrily at follower ; but looking another way,
him. Near Euclid and Eubulides because he differed from his mas-
is Stilpo, their follower ; whom ter. This Figure is the Portrait of
Pyrrho prevents from ascending Francesco, Duke of Urbino, ne-
the steps tojoin them. The lower phew to Julius II. The person
part of the Picture on the side with crowned with vine-leaves, and rest-
the statue of Apollo, represents ing a book on a pedestal, is Epi-
the Philosophy of Leucippus, the curus, looking gay, according to
disciple of Zeno, though tne author the account given of him ; and the
of a very opposite system. He Figure leaning on his shoulder is
first taught the doctrine of Atoms ; Metrodorus ; next to whom is He-
and is represented standing with a raclitus, wearing a Black Veil, like
book on his thigh : while presump- that of the Ephesian Diana, in
tion, and resentment of opposition whose temple he exposed his works,
are depicted on his countenance. Seated on the second step, near
Democritus, his most celebrated the centre of the Picture, is Dio-
disciple, is sitting near him, booted, genes, reading, with a cup by his
according to the costume of his side ; and below him is a Portrait
countrymen the Abderites, and of the ereat architect, Bramante,
writing upon a stone table, shaped (under the character of Archime-
like the sarcophagi among which des,) who is tracing an hexagonal
he used to meditate: he lost his for- figure. The Young Man behind
tune, therefore his dress indicates Bramante, in an attitude of admi-
poverty ; and he is represented ration, is supposed to be the Por-
m deep meditation, to shew his trait of Federigo Gonzaga, Duke
uncommon studiousness. Oppo- of Mantua ; the other handsome
site to Leucippus sits Empedocles, and enthusiastic looking Person
resting on a Cubey though not who points to the hexagon, is sup-
with contempt^ according to the posed to be Archytas of Taren-
principles of Leucippus ; because turn ' : the Boy, on his knees, is
Empedocles adhered, on some Phenix of Alexandria ; and behind
points, to the Pythagorean system, him, with a hand on his back, is
The Youth holoing, before Empe- Ctesibius. The Person wearing a
docles, Pythagoras's Table of the Crown and holding a Globe is Al-
Generation of Numbers and the phonso. King of Arragon, Sicily,
Harmonies, is Meton <i : and the and Naples ', under the character
Youth in a helmet, witfi his profile of Zoroaster : the Person with a
only visible, is Melinus, the Friend black turban on his head, and like-
of Meton. The Figure in an orien- wise holding a Globe, may proba-»
(q) According to some opinions this Profile («) Alphonso, one of the greatest and most
represents Aspa^ia, from whom Socrates learnt amiable monarchs of the iifteenth ceaturjr,
eloquence. was passionately devoted to Learping, apd a
if) The sandals indicate this to be a female muniiicent patron of Genius,
disaple, all of whom have sandals.
Ch.VII.] SOME, $04
bly represent Confucius : and the poets to sacrifice annually to Li*
two persons with whom Alphonso nus, the father of Lyric verse,
seems conversing are portraits of within his Grotto on HeUcon ; and
Raphael and Pietro Perug[ino. The at the same time to support their
statues and hassi-rilievi with which pretensions to superior merit by a
Raphael has ornamented his scene, recital of their works. We will,
are emblematical of the different therefore, suppose the scene in
Schools of Philosophy; and the question to be Helicon, and the
Picture, in point of composition, poets to be assembled near the
is considered to be his chef-doeuvrey Grotto of Linus. According witti
the Sibyls of S. Maria della Pace this idea, we find Sappho at the
excepted. Opposite to this inimi> entrance of the Grotto, opening
tableworkis another Fresco, called the Festival. She wrote a poem
Theology: it was coloured by Ra« entitled '* Oetolinus, or the Mis*
phael, and the lower part of the pic- fortunes of Linus ;" which she ap-
ture, especially the Group where S. pears to be unrolling ^ Of the
Augustine is dictating to a Youth, is four Figures near her, the most
extremely admired : out the upper prominent is Pindar, known by his
part, namely, the blessed Trinity, magnificent dress, which is only
the Madonna, and S. John Bap- surpassed by that of Homer. Pin-
tist, are said to be too much in the dar seems conversing with Corinna:
Gothic style. The Heads of Saints his head is a Uttle shaded, in refer-
Gregorio, Ambrogio, Augustine, ence to their contentions at Thebes
Domenico, Bonaventura, and Je- for the prize of poetry ; in which,
rome, are tliought particularly fine, she was five times victorious: he
Raphael has represented the four is likewise placed somewhat lower
first as Fathers of the Church, than his antagonist, though he
seated at each side of an Altar, steps with an apparent anu)ition
(upon which the Host is exposed,) to surpass her. Petrarca wears
and haranguing on the Holy Sa- the Monastic Hood, and therefore
crament. The place of assembly cannot be mistaken: and, perhaps,
represents the Foundations of a in compliment to his countryman.
Christian Temple, with part of the Raphael has given Corinna the
Superstructure begun. Another countenance of Laura". Corinna
Picture (coloured by Raphael) in points with two of her fingers to
this room is called Jurisprudence; Archilochus, as the inventor of
expressed by the three handmaids new rh3[thms in music, and new
of Justice, namely. Wisdom, Tem- metres in poetry ; and to Homer
perance, and Fortitude. In the as the prince of heroic verse. Ho-
lower part, on tlie left, is Justinian mer, by his superior elevation*
giving the Digests to Trebonian; shews that he has no rival: he
and, on the right, Gregoiy IX, stands on a level with Apollo and
ynder the figure of Julius II, pre- the Muses ; and seems to be pour-
i^enting his Decretals to an advo- ing forth a strain of harmony which
cate. The fourth Picture in this fires his auditors with his own
room was likewise coloured by rapture. Raphael has therefore
Raphael, and represents Poetry: made the Leaves of his Laurel
but whether the scene be laid Crown take the shape of luminous
on Parnassus, or Helicon, seems rays, like the Garland of Apollo,
doubtful. It was, however, cus- Near Homer is a Youth copying
tomary for celebrated Grecian the effusions of the great Improve
(t") Linus possessed g^reat talents for poetry (u) There appears to have been a resein.-»
l^a mnsie ; but, on presuming^ to compare blance between these celebrated ladies ; as
himself to ApoUo, we are told he wa« slain by each was tall, well made, and bad light hwr
tliat God. aAd a £air oomplexion.
fiO$ ROME. tCh.VII.
visatore, and probably meant fot fondty on Polyhymnia is the youth-
Scindapsus'. Virgil, clothed with ful Muse, Terpsichore ; who seems
a green mantle, (in allusion to the ^ to acknowledge that she is indebted
Georgics,) is placed not far distant to Polyhymnia for the regulated
from Homer ; and points to the measure of her steps. The Muse
Epic Muse, whose patronage he j)resenting herself on the other
seems to demand. Dante is repre- side of the laurel is Erato, con-
sented looking at Virgil, and stand- cealing a Scroll, perhaps Ovid's
ing below him, at no great distance. Art of Love, in her bosom. Next
Behind Virgil appears Ariosto, to Erato is Thalia, looking like d,
with a wild and fanciful counte- clever mimic without guue; and
nance, expressive of disinclination exhibiting in her right'hand a Maslc
to converse with his brother poets, taken from domestic life. Cal*
He had no model ; and is said to liope is placed by her side, dressed
have been pensive and fond of so- with regal splendour, and having a
htude. The Viohn, invented about round Shield attached to the gir-
the time of Raphael, to the delight die she wears, perhaps because
of every lover of music, he has war is the proper subject for Epic
placed in the hands of Apollo ^ ; poetry. Urania is represented
who is listening to, and accompa*. turning to the north, and looking
nying the hymn of Homer. Eu- in a contrary direction to the god
terpe stands near Apollo, attend- of day, because her studies are
ing to his accompaniment. Clio, nocturnal : her hands are conceal-
seated on the right of Apollo, and ed from view, like her labours ; and
contemplating her trumpet, an- her countenance is shaded, because
nounces the power she possesses the most important results of as-
of conferring immortality : her tronomical calculations depend on
beauty has a grave and masculine observations made during the
character; she is clothed in white, night*. The person looking at a
to express truth and candour ; and Gigantic Figure below him, and
she is seated, because study re- placing his finger on his lips, is
quires tranquillity. Near Clio, Horace : the double Cord round
and attending to her only, stands his neck refers to his initiation in
Melpomene ; who is supposed to the Eleusinian Mysteries ; and he
borrow subjects from the Historic seems to be in the act of imposing
Muse; though the position of silence on the aforesaid Gigantic
her hands, the one holding a scenic Figure, which represents Hesiod,
mask, and the other pointing to who is seated, as the pendant to
herself, shews that she must, by Sappho, guarding the Mouth of
a new modification, animate the the Cave. His immense size re-
characters in her dramas, and give fers to his appellation of the Son
them her own elevated language, of Atlas ; and he is represented as
She wears a purple robe, because extremelv old, though retaining the
her principal agents are persons of vigour of youth, to personify Di-
high rank. In this Group is Poly- dactic Poetry. He was thought to
hymnia, who appears about the speak with too much freedom of
same age with Euterpe, but older religious mysteries, and is therefore
than her other Sisters ; and leaning reproved by Horace ^ Imme-
(v) Many persons earned their livelihood menichino and Quid© afterwards did the sani*.
bV writing, on detached leaves, the poems of («) It is said the divisions of tlM sphere tnar
Homer at the time when he sung them : and be traced in the arrangement of her hair.
Scindapstis, we are told, constantly attended (jj) Horace, speaking of persons who take
the blind Bard as his secretary. an improper Hceuce on sncn subjects, says,
(to) Bellini, before Raphael, had acknow- " With these persons I should neither hav«
ledged the superior valve of tiiis instrument, courage to sail in the same resstl, nor to sleep
by placing it ia the handg of aatgete ; and I>(k under the same iwf."
Ch^VIL] aOMB. 207
diately before the lauirel-tree oh Coronation of Charlemagne, by
this side, stands Vittoria Colonna, Leo III.
a relation to Julius II, and the most The Siurbases of these rooms are
successful of all the imitators of finely painted in chiato^ecuro, by
Petrarca. Hinaldo Corso, who Polidoro da Caravaggio, and re-
commented on her works, stands touched by Carlo Maratta.
close to Vittoria; and Bannazaro The Loggia, or open Gallery,
is represented as conversing very above the Stanze di RafPaello, leans
earnestly with her. Another figure to an Apartment containing some
in the same Group is Pompeio ofthe most celebrated Easel-Paint'-
Colonna ; and the last represents ings extant.
Balthazar Castiglionei Tne Ceil- The Antechamber to this Apart-
ing of this apartment was painted ment containii a Portrait, pamted
by Raphael. by Sir Thomas Lawrence, of
In the fiyutih room is one of George IV, King of Great Britain,
Raphaers most celebrated Compo^ placed in its present situation 1^
sitions, representing the fii^e in Leo XII.
Boigo S. Spirito, near the Vati- First room, A Fresco found itt
can ; which happened during the the ancient Vatican Library ; and
Pontificate of Leo IV. The tu- supposed to have been done by
mult and high wind raised by the Gnirlahdajo — ^the TRburtine Sibyt
fire are wonderfully expressed ; by Garofolo — ^the Theological Vn--
and the Young Man rescuing his tues, by Raphael — Religious My^-
Father, llie Person sliding down a teries, by ditto— the Madonna, the
wall, and the Woman carrying Saviour, and S. Catherine, by Ga*
water on her head, are particularly rofolo— Saints, by Perugino — a
admired. In the fore*ground is Doge of Venice, "by Titian — and
another fine Figure of a Female, two Pictures, by Beato da Fiesole,
apparently quite frantic, and rais- relative to the Life of S. Niccolo di
ing her hands toward Leo IV^ Ban.
who appears in a Portico, below Second room. Cows, bjr Paul
which is a fine Group of persons Potter! — the Transfiguration, by
invoking his aid. This Picture, Raphael ! ! ! — the Madonna and
except the Group of the Young Saints, by Titian ! I — and the Corn-
Man rescuing his Father and fbi- munion of S. Girolamo, by Dome-
lowed by his Wife, was coloured nichino ! ! !
byRapnael; that Group is sup- Third room. A Pieth, by Ca-
posed to have been coloured by ravaggio!!— S'.Helena, by Paolo
Giulio Romano. Over the window, Veronese — the Resurrection of
in the same room, is a Picture Christ, by Perugino — ^the Madonna
which represents Leo III swearing, with four Saints, by ditto! — and the
before Uharlemagne, upon tn^ Assumption of the Madonna, de-
Gospels, that he was not guilty of signed by Raphael, and coloured
the crimes laid to his charge by by Giulio Romano, and Francesco
Itie party who wished to depose reraii!
him^ The composition of this Fourth room. The Madonna and
wctfk is admired, as are several two Saints, by Gnido ! — the Na-
of the Heads. Another Picture, tivity of the Madonna, by Albano
finely executed, represents the — S. Gregorio, by Andrea Sacchi
Victory gained by Leo IV over the — S. Romuald6*s Vision, by ditto ! I
Saracens at Ostia ; and the fourth — ^and the Crucifixion of ». Peter,
Picture in this apartment is the by Guido ! I
(9) Acootding; tOBome opisioft»,the Pope, in tbig Kcture, is a PoHralt of Leo X ; and Qa
JSmpevor a Portrait of Fifaiicis I, of France.
^oa
KOME.
[Ch. YII.
Fifth room. The Martyrdom of Vaga; it represents the Planets,
S. Erasmus, by Nicolas Poussin — and the Signs of the Zodiac,
the Annunciation, by Baroccio — Galleria Lapidaria, In this
the Incredulity of S. Thomas, by Gallery is a very large and valuable
Guercino! — a, Pieta, by Andrea collection of ancient Inscriptions,
Mantegna — S*. Michelina, by Ba- several of which were found in the
roccio — and the Martyrdom of two Catacombs : here, likewise, are Ci-
Saints, by Valentin. nerary Urns, and other Sepulchral
Sixth room. The Coronation Monuments; together with an
of the Madonna, by Raphael! — JEdicula, found at Todi; and an
the Madonna di Foligno, by the immense Vase, probably a Recepta-
same great master * ! 1 1 — and the cle for the ashes of victims offered
Magdalene, by Guercino ! to the gods : it is ornamented with
These rooms are open to the lions devouring weaker animals,
Public every Monday and Thurs- one of the ancient emblems of
day. Festivals excepted, at the fifth death. Here also is a Tomb sup-
hour before sunset ; and remain posed to have held the remains of
open four hours. Lucius Atimetus, a Cutler ; be-
Museo ChiaramontL Aparta- cause the bassi-rilievi on its sides
mento-Borgia. These rooms con- represent aCuller'sShop and Forge,
tain a Statue of -isculapius — four It was found near the Church of S*.
Passi-rilievi from the Forum of Agnese, on the Via-Nomentana.
Trajan ; that, which represents The second division of the Gal-
Wrestlers, being particularly fine — /^ry contains on the right a Re-
fi Basso-rilievo of a Nymph, Loves, cumbent Female Figure, (supposed
^c, — another Basso-rilievo repre- to represent Autumn,) restmg on
senting Acanthus-leaves — a ^e- the Lid of a Sarcophagus, and sur-
ceptacle for the ashes of victims rounded by little Bacchanalians :
offered to the gods, from the it was found at Ostia. The Tomb
Giustiniani collection — an ancient it covers (found near the Via-Fla-
Car, found on the spot called Roma minia, at Acquatraversa,) is oma-
Vecchia, and supposed to have mented with three Half-figures in
consisted of wood sheathed with alto-riiievo, which appear to repre-
bronze ; the wheels and pole are sent a Father and Mother and tneir
modem : — ^twelve Etruscan Sarco- Son ; the last wears the bulla.
phagi — terra-cotta Lamps; and Immediately opposite is another
JVagments of various descriptions ; Recumbent Figure, (supposed to
together with a well-preserved an- represent Winter,) resting on the
cient Fresco, found on the Esqui- Lid of a Sarcophagus^ and sur-
line Hill, near the Gardens of Me- rounded by Genu, who are playing
csenas, and commonly called The with Tortoises : it was found at
Aldobrandini Marriage : it is sup- Ostia, and is placed on a very an-
posed to represent the Union of cient Tomb of travertino,. oma-
Tlietis with Peleus I mented with fibres of a Husband
One of these rooms is oma- and Wife and their Chidren. Other
mented with a beautiful Ceiling, by interesting pieces of Sculpture in
Qiovanni da Udine, and Pierino del this immense Gallery are— If o. 14 ^
(a) This admirable Picture was painted by
order of OiSmondo Cooti, (first Secretary to
Jalius no to commemorate the preservation
of the Town of Folirno from a thunderbolt, at
the intercession of Saints Girolamo and Fran-
cesco. The Fiffore opposite to S. John Bap-
tist, and clothed in TyriaoDnrple, represente
Oismondo Conti; and the TabUt, held by tho
Cherub, was intended to have contained an in-
scription relative to the picture.
(6) A very few of the Numerical Figaret,
on the statues and other sculpture in the Va«
tican Museum, have been accidentally obliter-
ated, or purposely changed; but, generally
speaking, they were found, in 18S6, to oonrc*
spond with this Work.
Ch. Vnj ROME. 809
Statue of Euterpe — 16, a Muse— » and suj^s^ to have been oriffin^
19, Paris — 26, Head of Septimius ally one of the ornaments of iW*
Severus — 30, Head of Antoninus jan*s Forum! — 357, Statue of Pal«*
Pius — 33, Bust of Marcus Aure- las — 359, Fragment, shewing spe-
lius when youn^ — 34, Herma, cimens of ancient Armour, and
called Plato-^7, Herma of Bac- supposed to be Etruscan — 360, a
chus-Zagraeus, and Bacchus-Dio- Basso^rilievo, curious because it
nysius, remarkable only tor being represents a sacred Dance — 36 1*
rare — 1 20, Statue of a Vestal — 1 2 1 , Divinities, of the Etruscan School,
Statue of Clio seated — 122, Statue and supposedto be Jupiter and Juno
of Diana — 142, Fragment of a — 400, Statue of Marcellus seated.
Statue of Pallas, supposed to be from the Giustiniani collection IS
Etruscan — 176, a Fragment! — —408, Fragment of a Baff<o-n^i>vo,
1 79, Statue of Marcus Aurelius — curious, TOcause it represents a
181, Group of Diana Triformis, on Four-wheeled Car--4 1 7, Bust sup-
it beautiful Pedestal ! — 1 97, Colos-* posed to be the likeness of Auffus*
sal Bust of Pallas, found near the tus when young ; it was found at
ancient Laurentum! — 240, Statue Ostia!! — 421, Bust of Demos-
of Britannicus — 24 1 , Statue of Ly « thenes— 44 1 , Head of Alcibiades t
sias seated — 242, Statue of Apollo — 442, Bust of Clodius Albinus— ^
— ^244, Colossal Head of Oceanus ! 453, Statue, which seems to have
-^-254, Bust of Niobe — 255, a been originally a Meleager ; but is
Small Statue, in bigio, of Jupiter- restored as a Roman Emperor
Serapis seated — 256, Bust, called holding the Globe, and a fl^e of
Sappho — 284, a Small Statue of Victory-~454, Statue of ^scula-
Apollo - 234, a Semi-colossal Sta- pius — 458, a Cow — 460, an Altar,
tue of Hercules, placed on one of found at Ostia — 461, a Stork —
the Sacred receptacles for the ashes 462, an Hippopotamus — 463, a
of victims, which is ornamented young Wild-boar in nero antico I
with a Basso-rilievo of a Lion de- — 464, Mithras with the Bull, in
vouring a Wild-boar, one of the bigio — 465, a Swan!! — 466, a
ancient emblems of death — 295, Phoenix — 467, a Dog — 493, a
Torso of Bacchus — 298, Statue of ^emi-colossal Statue of Mercury-^
Bacchus — 300, a JBc»«o-n7ievo, al- 494, a Semi-colossal Statue, in
kisive to the combats of the Ama- Pentelic marble, of Tiberius seated,
zons — 301, ditto — 309, a Small excellently wdl preserved, and
Tigress — 311, a Leopard devouring found at Pipemo, the ancient Pri-
the Head of a Goat, found in vernum *=!!!-— 496, Statue of Mi-
Adrian's Villa — 312, a Gladiator nerva-— 498, Statue, restored as
£ghting with a Lion — ^3 1 3, a Lynx—. Atropos ; it was found in Adrian's
314, a Genius fighting with a Lion Villa— 504, Head of Niobe— 505,
•r-339. Small Statue of a Faun — Colossal Head of Antoninus Pius
34 1 , Small Statue of Diana- Luna I encircled with a civic crown— 5 1 0,
— 343, Statue-of Paris— 344, Sta- a Head, called Meleager— 512,
tue of a Child holding Apples — Bust of Adrian — 513, Bust of
353, Statue of a Nymph — 355, Venus, in Parian marble, found in
Statue of a Muse — 356, a half-^ Dioclesian's Baths ! ! — 525, Head,
length Colossal Figure of a Dacian suppossed to be a likeness of Cicero
Prisoner,, from the Villa-Negroni ; —533, Figure with an Urn, a
(c) The fourteen Cities of Asia Minor, eonsequence. On the sane oceasion there
tlirovii down either by th^ earthquake which were two Medals stamped of Tiberius ; in both
tpok place at our Saviour's Crucitixion, or, of which he is represented sitting, with a pa-
(aceordittff to some records.) in the year 17* tera in one hand and a spear in the ot"*'* Pre*
aad which Cities the Emperor assisted the in- cisely in the posture of this btatue tound %.%
)i«bitantt to xebuild, erected a statue to him iir Pipemo.
StO ROHS. (pii.yii
IbiicKal Ohafdet, sad a Lamb-*' eaUed Roma Veeohm* mud tappos^
634» Colossal Bust of Juno, found to represent Cicero ! — ^7€0, a Co«
at Ostiar^543, a Fra^gmei^, called lossal Head of Antoniiius Pius,
Nero — 544, Statue of SUenus with found at Ostia f — 708, a Semi*
a Tiger ! — 645, a Fragment, called colossal Recumbent Statue of Her*
Tiberius — 547, a Colossal Bust of cules, found in Adrian's Villa l-^
Isis, in Pentelic marble, found in the Nearly opposite to this Statue ia
Qanlen of the Pontifical Palace on the Head of a River-god, in terra^
the Quinnal Hill — ^554, a Colossal cotta.
Head of Antomnus Pius — 555, a Gallery of the Nile. Justbejfond
Head supposed to represent Pom- the entrance to the eecond dkiksion
pey I — ^556, a H«ul called Lucius of the Galleria Lapidaria. This
Verus when a yi>uth — ^558, Head spacious and splendid Apartment^
of Pallas — ^561, Bust supposed to erected by command of Pius YII»
represent the Father of Trajan! ! and opened to the Pubhc in 1822*
-^562, Bust, supposed to repre- exhibits a considerable number of
sent Augustus 1 1 — 563, Bust called ancient columns of precious mar«
Aristotle — 580, Colossal Bust of ble, is beautifully paved with the
IVajan, found in the Porto-Traja- same material, and well restored
nelk), at Ostia — 588, Statue of ancient Mosaics ; and likewise em«'
Venus — 589, Statue of Mercury beUished with a fine modem Frieze
in Pentelic marble, found near the of stucco, copied from antique
Monte diPietd — 591, Statue of the ba^si-rflievi too muchii^ured for
Emperor Claudius — 604, Bust of use. Some of the most striking*
Bacchus— 605, Bust of Silvanus — pieces of Sculpture in this new
606, Bust of Neptune, in Pentelic Gallery are — No. 2, a Herma of
marble, found at Ostia — 608,Bustof Pentelic marble, bearing a Greek
the younger Agrippina — 6 1 8, Head Sepulchral Inscription, and appa-i
supposed to represent Marcus Bru« rentlv made with a Half-figure
tus — 619, Head of Aggrippina the of Mercury, and part of another
elder — 621, Statue of Pan seated — Herma — 5, a Statue of Mercury—*
636, Statue of Ceres, placed on an 6, a Bust, found at Ostia — ^8, a
Altar which merits observation, Semi-colossal Statue of Domitian,
and exhibits on one side Apollo fix>m the Giustiniani collection ^ !-*«
and Diana, on another Mars and 9, a Bust in the style of the E^^yp-
Mo-cuiy, on the third Hope and a tian School — 10, a Colossal Bust
Fountain, and on the fourth H^- of a Dacian Slave, found in the
cules and Silvanus — 638, Fragment Forum of Trajan I^-l 1 , Statue of
supposed to have represented an a Discobolus! — 1 2, Bust of Apollo
Hermaphrodite — 639, Statue called — 13, a Bust in Carrara marble^
Alexander— 642, 643, and 644, fine called the Emperor Philip tha
Fragments — 647, Statue of A^s— elder I — 14, Statue of Lucius
654, a mutilated Statue of Isis — Verus !• — 16, Colossal Bust of
655, a Group of Loves, &c. — 674, Commodus, found at Ostia I — 17,
Ganymede borne off by the Ea^le Statue of a Faun, in Greek mar-
—-678, BasM-rilievo representing ble, supposed to be an ancienfr
Ancient Gallies— 681, Statue or copy of a celebrated Faun by
Hygeia— 684, Statue of JEscula# Praxiteles; it was taken trom the
§ius — 685, Statue of Venus->686, Ruspoli collection ! — 19, Bust of a
tatue called the Vestal, Tuccia — Dacian Slave, supposed to have
698, Bust found among the ruins been done in the time of Trajai^-'
(O Tha Mosaic Pavement, ia front of thia (e) The black and white Mosaic Pavement,
Btetae, wa» found among the niins of an an- in front of tikis statue, repretenU UliMss
cient villa, about two mues from the Porta S. «gc»piag (ton So/Utt and tJM Sireu.
^bastiaao, Mid called Tor Marancio. *
Ch. VILl. ROME. tit
20, a Setni-eolosiial Statue of the sufficient aiifhority I'— 48, a 8emi«
Emperor Claudius, in Carrara colossal Statue of Fortune, found
marble, from the Ruspofi eollec- at Ostia! !— 50, Bust of Mansdltie
tion'— 22, a Bust called Titus— 23, ->52, Bast of PaUasI---53, Bvit
Statue ik Minerva Medica, in of Adrian !~5S, an incognito Bust
Greek marble, from the Giustiniani — 56, ditto--57, a Srau-oolossil
odketion ! ! ! This master-fMeoe Statue of Antonia, Mother of the
of Grecian sculpture was found Emperor CUuidius, found at Tut*
near the picturesque Ruin on the ouhim--60, a Semi-colotBalStatiti,
Esqnilinie Hill; called (in conse« called Clemency, in Grecian mur*
quence) the Temple of Minerva* ble — 62, Bust called Ptolemy, sM
Medica— 26, Statue of Diana^-^SO, of Juba, King of Maant«nta--«4«
Statue of a Wrestler, found at Bust of Caracalla when jrouni^
Tivoli, in tiie Villa of Quintilius 6C, Bust of Mareus Aurehtis whcft
Varus — 32, Statue of a Wrestler, yoimg — 67, Herma of Hercnlet,
found in the same place — 34, Sta* found at Ostia — 71, an incognit*
lue of a Wrestler, found in a Villa Bust, frt>m the Ruspoii colkietkMi
which belonged to Lucnllus — 36, — 72, Statue of Demosthenes ! At
Statue of a Wrestler, found in the Base of this Statue \m a Bern
the Villa of Quintilius Varus, at niiun, or Capsa, in which maan^-
Tivoli — 38, Statue of a Wrestler scripta were Kept by the Aneienta
in repose, from the RuspoU od- -^74, an inoc^ito Bust — 75, a
lection ^41, Statue, supposed to Statue called Abundance, but sop^
represent Ceres, or one of the posed to have originally represent*
Seasons. — In this part of the ed Fortune — ^78, Statue of a Fa*
Gallery are a Bust of Pius VII, by male, probably a Juno— 81, Stalve
Canovas-4wo Columns of black of Euripides! — 83, Bust of Mar
Egyptian granite, tak^ from the crinus, very rare — 84, Statue of
Portico of the Church of S\ Sa- Diana, supposed to be contemplat>-
Inna — four magniiicent Cc^umns ing Endymion--86, Bust of Tnyaa,
ofcipolino, and tour of porphyry, excellent both with respect to r^
the last taken from the Church of semblance and execution ! ! — 8f ,
S. Bartolommeo ; and each of the one of the Statues called Caae^
four surmounted l>y a Colossal phone; it once ornamented the
Mask, representing Medusa, and Villaoi Sixtus V, andisof Pentefic
-found near the Temple of Venus marble >> — 89, Bust of superb onen-
and Rome. Here likewise are two tal alabaster — 90, Statue of an
magnificent Columns of oriental Amaxon, probably copied fttim the
alabaster, which adorn the door of famous Amazon of Ctesilaas !-^
the Giardino della Pigna» and were 93, a Small and beautiful Statue 6f
Ibund in the Villa of Lucius Verus, % Faun blowing the Pastonl Flult,
near the spot called Aoquatraversa and found near the Lake of Cir-
•^42, Statue of Vraus-Anadyo- ceiitt--94. Statue of a Priestess of
mene, in Gi*eek marble I-<45, Sta- Isis— 98, the celebrated Colossal
ttie of a Grecian Hiilosopber-~46, Group of the Nile and his oiftpring.
Bust of Lucius Antonius, brother The sixteen Infknts who surroond
to the Triumvir— 47, Bust, exe- the River-god are scmpoaed to be
. euted in superb oriental alabaster, emblematical of the height (six-
and called Salhtst, though without teen cubits) to which the Nile
(J) The Mosaic Pavement, in front of this which «nce belonged to the Sabine*. ^
Statue, tram e from Tor Marancio, as did all (A) Canephorse were young ladies of treWe
tkc <»then «f a nmUar descriptio*. Wrth wbo. dunog f^tivab celriiratod in ho-
(tf) Ths valoable Mosaic Pavemeat, with aoar of Miaerva, carriW oa OM»f ••»«, in
ttana of Ephesus in its centre, was discovered t)askets, Vanous things destmea for sacnlti*.
in UOl, at Pcfgio Mirteto, in the cffoatij _
2X2 HOME. [Ch.VIL
usually rises; and the Plinth on sal Head of a Badan Slave f— 129,
which the Group rests is ornament- a Semi-colossal Statue of Commo-
ed with Bassi-rilievi, representing dus, in Pentelic marble — 132, Sta-
Animals and Plants indigenous to tue of a Canephora.
the Nile and its neighbourhood I ! ! At the end of the second division
Tliis elaborate Group, probably of the Galleria Lapidaria, and
executedduringthe reign of Adrian, leading to the Museo Pio-Clemen^
was found among the ruins of a /mo, is a »/at>ca«6 ornamented with
Temple consecrated to Serapis, Arabesques by Danielle da Vol-
near the Church of S'. Maria sopra terra : and to the left of the Stair*
Minerva; and corresponds with ease are Apartments containing
the description given by Pliny of Statues, Busts, Egyptian Divinities
the Group of the Nile in the Tem- recently discovered near the first
gle of Peace, except that the Group Cataract of the Nile, and reputed
e describes was basalt, and this is to be some of the most ancient
white marble — 103, an elegantly specimens extant of Egyptian
formed Vase of basalt, ornamented sculpture ; a Mummv, found in
with Dionysiac Masks, «J»c. — 106, the Burial-place of the Egyptian
ft Recumbent Statue of a Faun, princes, and wonderfully well pre-
which served as the ornament of a served, even to the linen which
Fountain in the Villa of Quintilius fills the Coffin ; Mummies of Cats,
Varus, at Tivoli — 107, an Hippo^- and other Animals held sacred,
campa surmounted by a Nereid with a considerable number more
— 109, ditto — 110, a Recumbent of Egyptian Antiquities : and be»
Statue of a Faun, wliich likewise yond this GaUery are three rooms,
-served as the Ornament of a Foun- containing Casts, in plaster, of
^ain in the Villa of Quintilius Statues and Bassi-rilievi, found at
Varus — 111, Statue of Ganymede, Athens, afad now in ihe British
Orecian sculpture, and sujmosed .Museum. These Casts were given
.oiiginaUy to have sidomed a Foun- by George IV, of England, to Pius
^n: it was found at Ostia* — 114, Vll. The Bassi-rilievi placed
.Statue of Pallas, found at Velletri, round the first room represent
4ind executed in Grecian marble I ! part of the interior Frieze of the
116, -an incognito Bust — 117, a Cella of the Parthenon, exhibiting
- Statue of the Emperor Nerva festivals celebrated at Athens, in
wearing the toga, which is beauti- honour of Minerva, and called
fully executed — 118, Bust of a Panathensea. The recumbent Sta-
Nymph, probaWy the Fragment of tue, marked "A," represents the
«n Entire Statue — 119, Colossal river Ilissus, which waters Athens.
Bust of Claudius, found at Piperno, The Statue marked " B," is called
and supposed to have made part of a young Hercules ; and that mark-
a Colossal Statue of that Emperor, ed ** C," an Amorino, The Bassi^
fragments of which have been dis- rilievi placed round the second
covered — 123, a Statue called room likewise represent the Pana-
JEsculapius, but more probably thenaea. The Statue marked ** D,"
Augustus's Physician, Antonius is called Neptime ; the Group
Musa, in the character of ^scula- marked " E," Ceres and Proser-
pius!! — 124, a Semi-colossal Sta- pine; and the Head of a Horse,
tue of Antinous in the character of marked " F," appears to have be-
Vertumnus ; it is made of Grecian longed to the chariot of the setting
marble, and was found at Ostia ! I Sun. The Bassi-rilievi in the third
— 126, Group of Silenus nursing room represent the Battle of the
the infant Bacchus 1—128^ Colos- Lapithae with the Centaurs, whi<^
(0 T^9 name of Phedimo*, a Greciaa Artitt, ia inieribed upon this Statue.
Ch.VIIJ
home:
21^
ulso adorned the Parthenon. The Homer ;) and, on the left, two
Group marked ** G," in the centre Bcusi-rilievi, the one representing
of this room, has not yet been ex- a Sea-port, the otiber an ancient
plained. The Fragment marked Roman Galley, with soldiers fight-
" H," is by some persons supposed ing.
to represent the rising Sun, and Portico of the Court, To the
by others Oceanus ; and the Heads right of the Entrance-door are, a
of Horses, marked " I," appear to Column of granite, and another of
have belonged to this Group. All white marble adorned with foliage —
the Originals of these Casts were an ancient Bath, of black basalt,
executed by Phidias and his scho- found in Caracalla*s Baths — a
lars, except the Amorino, which is Basso-rilievo fixed in the Wall^
supposed to have been done in the representing Fauns and Gryphons,
time of Alexander* under which stands afineSarcopha*
Museo Pio-Clementino^. Square gus ornamented with Lions* Heads,
Vestibule. This Apartment con- Fauns, and Bacchantes, and found
tains Arabesques, by Daniello da under the new Sacristy of S.Peter's
Volterra — the celebrated Belvedere — ^here, likewise, is the Sarcopha-*
Torso, supposed to be the remains gus of Sixtus Varius MarceUus.
of a Group representing Hercules First Cabinet, Perseus, by Ca-
and Hebe, after the deification of nova — Damoxenus and Creugas,
the former, and executed, accord- celebrated Wrestlers of antiqui^"*,
ing to the Inscription it bears,, by by ditto — and, in the Niches on the
Apollonius, the son of Nestor of sides of the Arch, Statues of Mer*
Athens I ! ! ! — ^The Sarcophagus of cuiy and Pallas.
JiUcius Cornelius Scipio Barbatus, Continuation of the Portico^.
and a Bust, both found in the Tomb On the right, a Sarcophagus repre*
of the Scipio family, and made of senting Bacchus and Ariadne in
peperino * — several Inscriptions re- the Island of Naxos — another re-
lative to the Scipio family (all found presenting Prisoners imploring
in their Tomb) — and, opposite to Clemency fi*om their Conqueror —
the Sarcophagus, a recumbent in the large Niche, a Statue of
Statue. Sallustia Bai'bia Orbiana, wife of
' The second Apartment contains Alexander Severus, in the charac**
a Vaseof Greek marble!! andfom* ter of Venus accompanied by Cu-
Fragments of Statues ; that of a pid — a Sarcophagus representing
Female, seated, being much ad- Achilles slaying the Queen of the
mired on account of the drapen^.
In the Balcony is an ancient Dial,
with the names of the winds in
Greek and Latin ; and found, ac-
cording to report, near
Baths»
Amazons ; and, opposite to these,
two beautiful Half-colunms of rare
marble.
Second Cabinet. In the centre
Titus's is the celebrated Statue of Melea-
ger, once called the Qelvedere An-»
The third Apartment contains a tinous**!!! It was found on a spot.
Statue of Meleager ! ! ! — and, fixed named Adrianello, near the Church
into the Wall on the right, a ^o^^o* of S. Martino in Monte ; with one
rilievo, (subject, the Apotheosis of of the arms and the left hand want-*
(k") So cftUed from iU Founders, Clement
Xn< and Pio« VI.
(/) It would seem extraordinary that the
bast and sarcophafpis of one of the greatest
men of the age in which he flourished should
be made of so common a stone as peperino, if
we did not collect from Pliny, tnat marble
was not used at Rome for the purposes of
sculpture, till about the flftieth Olympiad.
(m) Damoxenus was banished from Syra-
cusae, his native country, for killing his anta-
ffonist in a most unfair and brutal manner.
Jsee Pausanias, 8. c. 40.
(n) According to the opinion of > isconti
(already mentioned) this beautiful btatnt
represents Mercury.
tu
ROMIE.
[Ch/VII.
ini^.--On; the rigbt/ fixed m the Baths of Ittuf*. The Statuo <tf
W»a,is»-BaMi»-nit«»ofAehiUe* Laocoon is unWersally €<msidered
tlajhig the Queen of the Amazons aa a ehrf-detware of. antiquity ; and
«-H>i^iosite to this, another Baato^ displays the picture of human na*
rilievo, (subject, Isiaic Ceremonies) ture struggling with grief, and try-
«fr4iiidin the Niches under the Arch, ing to oppose the stroke of fat^
Priapus and a young Hercules. with all the force of intellect. The
CmUmtoHon of the Portico, leff side of this wonderful Statue,
On the right is a Sarcophagus re- where the Serpents teeth have pe-
presenting the Seasons^another, netrated, is that part of the body
representing Nereides with the Ar- which seems to suflPer most, from
WomrofAchilles-^^ppositetothese^ its proximity to the heart; and is
a magnificent Bath of red granite considered as the finest production
-<r4ii|d, fixed in the Wall, a Bcuao^ of the Grecian chisel now in exists
ntie^o^ supposed, according to enoe. The right arm was wanting,
some (^linioBs, to represent one of and Michad Angelo attempted t^
the Gates of the Tempk ot Janus ; restore it in marble ; but not pleas*
and. aeeording to others, the Gate ing himself sufficiently to continue
of £temity. On each side of the the work, it was afterwards done in
Entrance to the Hall of Animals is plaster by Bernini. The Sons are
a fine Column of verde antique, said to be too much formed for
and the Statue of a Shepherd's children of nine or ten years of
Dog J— 'Further on are, a Sarco* ag^. Winckelmann supposes this
phagus, representing the Battle of Group to have been executed in tha
the Athenians with tiie Amazons — time of Alexander the Great ; but
another, representing Gknii and Pliny does not name the period
Baoehanalian Figures — and, oppo^ when Agesander and Ms associates
site to tibiia, a magnificent Bath of so eminently distinguished them-
red granite. selves. The Cabinet also contains
Third Cafnnei, Here is the unti* a Basso^rilievo, fixed in the Wall,
mitable Group of Laocoon, Son of and representing^ the Triumph of
f4riam and Hecuba, and High* Bacchus aft^ h^ Victory orer the
priest of ApoUo-Thymbrseus. Lao-* Indians ; and another, the subject
eoon endeavoiured to prerent the of which LsBacchaiialians. In the
reception of the wooden horse into Niches, on the sides of the Arch,
Troy ; in consequence of which, he
and Ins two sons are supposed to
have been killed by Serpents! If!
This is the group mentioned by
are Statues of Polymnia, and a
Nymph, foimd near the Temple of
Peace.
Continuation of the Po/riiea, On
Pliny, as having been placed in the the right side, tixed in the Wall,
.palace of Titus, and as the joint is a Baseo-rilievo of Hercules and
woik of Agesander, Ap^odorus, Bacchus, with their respective al-
and Athenodorus of Rhodes : it tributes — and, below this, a Sarco*
was found, during the Pontificate phagus representing Genii car^ins;
of Julius II, near the Sette Salle, Arms. H^re, hkewise, is a Batn
m Reseryoirs, belonging to the of gigantic magnitude. Fixed in
(o) Some persons doubt whether the Laocoon
of the Vatican be that mentioned l>y Pliny ;
becanse he s^iys* the rronp was made with
Ine sinf le blocH of marl>le, and the i«aoeoon
of the Vatican is oomponed of two i)ieces.
Winckelmann, howerer, tellti n8> that, in aU
prob ability < the joint, eastly dis'^orerabte now,
was not to be perceived in Pliny*s time. When
Trarellers obtain permissfion to see the Vati-
can Museum by torch-light, they nsnally
have four wax torches, (each containing
four wicks,) placed within a rtjflector, fastoned
to a long pole : and the light, thus arranged*
is most jndicioQslr thrown on all the tanest
statue«, so as to airplay and magnify theic
beauties, while their imperfections are left ia
shadow : and Laocoon, thns viewed, appears
fine beyond conception ; because his ttgar«
only is exhibited, without the rest of the
group.
Ctu VILl ROUS. %iy
the Watt is aoolhct fine BaN(h^ cientMosM^ofaWolf; tnd.fiirUMr
riiiem of Aue:ustus saGrificing! on. are other ancient Mosaiea, some
In the large Niche is a Statue of of which V9&c9 found at Palestrina,
Hygeia ; and» fixed in the Wall, a Here is an unique, numerous, and
Bas^o-rilievo rq>resenting Rome most^aluable collection of Animals,
vith a yictorious Emperor — Yter^ sculptured in every kind of precious
also, is another gigantic Bath of marble, and several of them beau-
granite; andaSarcoj^agusadom- tifuUy executed,
ed with Tritons and Nereides. Right Side of tJie Hall. Some
Fourth Cabinet This room of the most striking things here
contains the Belvedere Apollo !!!! are — Mithras stabbing the Bull-^
a Statue equally celebrated with an Ibis--a Stag in flowered ala^
the group of Laocoon, and found baster — two Groups, each repre«
at Antium, toward the dose of the senting a Dog on the back of a
ftfteenth century. The foot on Stag- — ^a Small Greyhound — a Stag-
which the figure stands was broken, hound and Puppy — ^three Grey*
and the pieces are not well put hounds — Europa — a Small Bull—
together ; but the hands are finely a Small Lion in breccia, with
restored, especially the left. This teeth and tongue of other marble
Statue is supposed to have been — Group of Hercules and the Ne*
brought firom Greece by Nero ; it maean Lion — Group of Diomedes
is. rather taller than tKe common and his Horses destroyed by
height of man, appears to tread Hercules — a Centaur and a Love
on air, and exliibits all the mascu- -^and a Lobst^ .
line beauty, grace, and dignity, QroUery of SteUt^ee. The most
with which we may suppose Adam remarkable pieces of sculpture on
to have been adorned before the the right side of this Apartment
FalL Two Basn-riHevi are fixed are— a Statue of Clodius Albinus
in the Walls : that on the right, re- — a half>length Figure of Love,
presents a Chase; that on the supposed to have been executed
left, Pasiphae with the BuU; and by a Grecian artist! — a Statue of
in the Niches, under the Arch, are Paris seated, with the Apple of
Statues of Pallas, and Venus tri- discord — Hercules — Minerva with
umphant. * an olive-branch in her hand — a
Continuation of the P&rtico. Statue, apparently Etruscan, of a
Here are two Sarcophagi : in the Woman seated ? — Caligula — a
centre of the first is Ganymede; Nymph — an Amazon! — a Faun
and in the centre of the other Bac« just waking from sleep ! — Juno ! —
ohtts between a Faun and a Bao^ Isis — a Seated Figure bearing the
chante! opposite to these is a mag- name of Posidipos!! — Heads of
nificent Bath of green basalt, found Domitia, Galba, Ly simachus, Ari-
m CaracaUa^s Baths — close to the adne, Menelaus Valerian, Helio*
Door of Entrance is a beautiful gabaJus,. Pertinax, Agrippa, Ca-
Column of porphyry ; and oppo- racalla, Julia-Mammea, Jupiter-
site to the Door, a Column of white Serapis, (in basalt,) and Antinous.
marble, ornamented with Sculpture At the bottom of the apartment is
ia the Arabesque style. a Statue of Jove seated, with Light*
JScdl ef AnimaU. This Apart- ning in his hand?! ! (the Basso*
HMBt is divided by a Vestibule rilievo on the Pedestal represents
in which are Columns and Pilas-«> Silenus and a Faun!) The other
ters of granite. The pavem^t side of the apartment contams the
near the entrance exhibit an an- Head of a Flamen^ or ancient Eo-
21 a ROME. [Ch.VIl,
man Priest of the second class, —Paris in a Phiygian dress— Mi-
wearing the Sacerdotal Tiara; nerva — Ganymede with the Ea-
a Head, with a Phrygian Cap, gle I !— and Adonis !! !
found near the Arch of Constan- Continuatiofi of the Gallery of
tine ; busts of Trajan and Anto^ Statues. A Priestess— a Faun — a^
iiinus Pius ; a Statue of Livia, in female Figure draped with pecu-
the character of Piety ; a Head of liar beauty, and supposed to re-
Claudius; a Bust of Sabina; presentaVestal!! I — a Recumbent
Heads ot'Brutus and Aristophanes; Semi-colossal Statue, called Cleo*
a Bust, in Porphyry, of Philip the patra, but supposed to represent
younger; a Bust of Marcus Aure- Ariadne asleep, in the Island of
lius ; a Demi-figure of Apollo ; Naxos ! ! ! — Mercury, and Lucius
and two Portraits, (on the same Verus !
block of marble,) called, without Continuation of the Hall of
authority, Cato and Portia. This . Animals, Right side, going out
side of me apartment lUtewise con- of the Gallery — an Equestrian
tains a Sittmg Statue bearing the Statue of Commodus — an Eagle
name of Menander I ! — Nero in — a Tiger — ^two Lions, one of
the character of Apollo — a Statue which holds, in his claws, the Head
of Septimius Severus — a Sitting of a Bull — two Bassi-rilievi fixed
Statue of Dido — Neptune with his in the Wall ; the one represents a
trident — Narcissus !— Bacchus as Cow and her Calf ; the other Wild-
E River-God — the Emperor Ma- boars driven by an Amorino— a
crinus — iEsculapius and Hygeia — Sphinx of flowered alabaster — ^the
a Muse — Seneca in a consular Head of an Ass — a small Horse —
habit — a Female sleeping— one of three goats — a Sow and Pigs — *
the Dan aides, with a Vase in her Group of a Lion devouring a
hand I — a Faun leaning against a Horse— a Cow in grey marble —
tree — and a Statue of Diana I ! ' - Hercules killing Gerion— a Horse
Cabinet of mosaic Masks, The — Hercules with Cerberus chained
Ceiling of this elegant room was »— and a Group ot a marine Cen^
painted by Domenico di Angelis, taur and a Nereid,
and represents the Marriage of Hall of the Muses » This apart**
Bacchus and Ariadne — Paris giv- ment is ornamented by sixteen Co-»
ing the Apple to Venus— Diana lumns of Carrara marble, with
and Endymion — ^Venus and Ado- Capitals taken from Adrian's Villa;
nis — and Paris and Minerva, and contains (among other sculp^
Here are eight Columns and eight ture) a rare and highly valuable
Pilasters ot Oriental alabaster — a collection of Statues and Hermae^
beautiful ancient Frieze— a i^awo- found together, in the Villa of
relievo, representing the Apotheo- Cassius, at Tivoli : the Statues
«is of Adrian — with others allusive represent Apollo and the Muses ;
to the Labours of Hercules. Here, the Hermae are Portraits of dis-
also, are Seats of porphyry — a tinguished Grecians^ with their
Basin and a Chair of rosso antico names inscribed upon them. On
—a beautiful antique mosaic Pave- the right is a Herma of Cleobulus,
ment, found in Adrian's Villa — a without the head — a Statue of Si-
Statue of a Bacchante *> I — Ditto of lenus — Hermae of Sophocles and
Venus rising from the bath I ! — Epicurus — a Statue of Meipome-
Ditto of one of Diana's Nymphs ne — a Herma of Zeno — a Statue
with a Torch I— a Faun in rosso of Thalia seated I — a Herma of
antico, found in Adrian's Villa I ! I uEschines, the only Portrait existn
4
[ (9) According to some opinions thi« Statue represent! one of the Qonrs.
Ch.vii.] eome; pir
'mg of that great orator— « Statue Here likewise are Bam-riliwi re-»
of . Urania^a Henna of Demos- presenting the dance of the Coiy«
thenes — a Statue of Calliope — a bantes — ttie Combat of the Lapi-
Herma of Antisthenes, the only thee with the Centaurs— the Birth
Portrait existing of that Philoso- of Bacchus, &c.
pher — a Statue of Polyhymnia Tke Entrance to tlie large Cir-
crowned with flowers, because she cular Hall contains, on the Arch
is the Muse of Rhetoric — a Head of the Door to the right, a Me-
called Posidonius — a Herma of dallion of Juno — ^in the Niche a
Aspasia veiled, the only Portrait Statue of Pallas— and, below, a
existing of that distinguished lady. Medallion with a festoon and a
and found at Castro Novo— a Sta- Medusa — in the opposite Niche a
tue of a female seated, supposed to Statue of Mnemosyne— and below,
represent Sappho I — a Herma of a Basso-rilievo of three Poets.
Pericles, the only Portrait existing Circular Hall. The Pavement
of that great statesman^Hermse of this apartment is an ancient
of Solon, and Pittacus, without Mosaic (found at Otricoli) repre«
the head^s — Herma of Bias, the senting Medusa^s Head, and the
only Portrait existing of that phi- Battle of the Lapithse with the
losopher — a Statue supposed to Centaurs, encircled by another
represent Lvcui^s — a Herma of ancient Mosaic, representing Ma«
Periander, the only Portrait exist- rine Monsters, and found m the
ing of that great statesman — a environs of Scrotano— -a magnifi-
Head of Alcibiades — a Statue, of cent porphyry Basin', forty •> one
Erato— ditto of Clio — a Herma of Paris feet in circumference, adorns
Socrates — a Statue of Apollo, in the centre of tliis apartment, which
bis theatrical dress, with a Lyre, is seventy feet in diameter, an4
exhibiting the death of Marsyas — contains a colossal Bust of Ju*
a Herma supposed to represent piter ! ! — ditto of Faustina the el-
Miltiades— a Statue of Terpsi- der! — ditto of Adrian (formerly in
chore seated — a Herma of Zeno his Mausoleum) — ditto of Anti*
the Epicurean— a Statue of Eu- nous — a Herma representing
terpe — ^a Herma of Euripides — a Oceanus ' — a Bust of Jupiter-Se->
Statue of Bacchus in female attire rapis— ditto of the Emperor Clau-
— aHerma of Aratus-rand aHer- dius — ditto of Plotina— ditto of
ma of Thales without the head. Julia Pia — ditto of PertinaxI —
In the Pavement is a Mosaic two Hermae (one on each side
(found at Lorium,) represent- of the Entrance-door) found in
ing comic and tragic Actors — and Adrian's Villa, and representing
another, in the Arabesque style, Bacchantes ! — Colossal Statues of
found near S*. Maria Maggiore. Commodus in the charac er of
The Ceiling was painted by the Hercules — Augustus in a sacrificial
Cav. Conca, and represents A-t habit — Ceres, or Melpomene re*
gollo and Marsyas — the Seven stored as Ceres!!! — Antoninus
aces of Greece — Homer singing Pius — Nerva ! ! — Juno, as Queen
to JVIinerva — Apollo, and some of of Heaven » I ! ! — ^the same heathei^
the Muses, with Homer, Viigil, divinity as the Goddess of Healthy
Ariosto, andTasso, in the Angles, with the dart, shield", &c.; and a
(r) These immense Basins seem to have the nlsinets.
made part of the farnitare of ancient Bnths ; (t) Fmm the Barberint collection,
tliere beiuK recently diHCOvered in the Public lu) Juno was worshipped at JAnuvium
Bnths at Pomi>eii a basin of this description, (where this statue was found) under the titla
which .was evidently tb« lower part of a of SotpUa^ and represented ms clothed in a
Fountain. goal's skin, and armed with a spear aod
(t) It is supposed that this Head was ori- shield, her feet being protected by sandals,
finally encireied with Seven Stars, perhaps
tl8 ROMR: [Ch.YIL
Group representing Saediut, a repiesentin|Briliree of the Muses—
Tiger end a Satyr. The Busts en a hraoket another Egyptian
are plaeed on Columns of por- Idol of nero antico, found at Ti-
phyry, and other rare marbles. voh — a Statue (on a pedesdal) of a
Vestibule in the form of a Greek Muse seated— and, near this, a
ero99. The I)oor of this apart- Statue of a Female veiled — aboye»
ment is ma^ficently ornamented fixed in the Wall, a Figure of
with two Egyptian Idols of red Victory, which once adorned the
granite, under the form of Gary- Baths of S*. Helena — and, oppo«
atjdes, taken from Adrian* s Villa, site to this, another fijgrure of Vio*
and bearing the likeness of An- tory. Here hkewise is the Sepul-
tinous — ^two Vases of red gra- ehral Monument of S*. Helena,
site, and a fine antique Basso^ found at Tor Pignattara : it con«
rilievo, representing a combat be- tained her remains, aiid is of por-
tween Gladiators and Wild-beasts, phyry — near it are, a Statue un-
In the Pavement is an an- draped, and another in the toga,
eient Mosaic, representing Ara- both found at Otricoli — on a
besques, and a head of Minerva bracket an Egyptian Idol, found
found near Tusculum : the apart- at Tivoli — and, on a pedestal, a
ment also contains a half-draped Statue found at Otricoli, and re-
Statue of Augustus ; and, fixed presenting a Youth veiled, holding
to the Wall, a Basso-rilievo of a Patera. At the Bottom of the
a Gryphon^~an Egyptian Idol of Staircase is a Recumbent Statue
nero antico, found' at Tivoli, and of the Tigris, in white marble \
placed upon a bracket ornamented and another of the Nile, in grey
with two Swans — a Statue on a marble. The Staircase, which is
pedestal of Lucius Verus, when magnificent, leads to a rotondo,
young, found at Otricoli — and near called
the window a large Sepulchral The Apartment of the Car. In
Monument of Porphyry, in which the centre of this Rotondo is an
the remains of S. Costanza were ancifinl and elegantly sculptured
deposited, and which was taken Car of marble, with two Horses,
from the Church that bears her the one antique, the other modern,
name — a Statue of a Muse seated. On the right of the Entrance-dcor
and holding, a scroll, supposed to is a Statue of Perseus ; and in
have once adorned the theatre at the Niche a Statue with a long
Otricoli — another Egyptian Idol of beard, called Sardanapalus ; but
nero antico, found at Tivoli, and more probably ^e bearded Bac-
placed on a bracket — a Statue of chus. The apartment likewise
Venus on a pedesdal ; and fixed contains a Statue which decidedly
to the wall above, a Basso-ri- represents Bacchus I — a Warrior
lievo representing three of the (with one foot on his helmet) sup-
Muses. Before the Stairs two posed to represent Alcibiades— <a
Colossal Sphinxes, of granite, and Statue v^ed,- and in the act of
fixed to the Wall, near the Arch sacrificing — a Statue of Apollo
supported by Columns of granite, with the lyre — a Discobolus — a
a Basso-rilievo representing Chil- Statue supposed to represent Ajax,
dren, and Lions* Heads— on the orPhocion!! probably the former^
other side a Basso-rilievo with if we noay judge by the cloak ; for
Bacchanalian Figures — in the Phocion always appeared bare*
Niche a Statue of Erato — and footed, and wiihout a cloak, both
fixed to the Wall a Basso-rilievo in his rural retreat* and at the
(o) Th« Head of the Tigris was reator^by Michael Angelqk
eh. YIl.] ROME; %n
iuNMl of the Athenian armiesh- bellished bjrpcmiliarly fiiM Bagn-
(mother Discobolus, imitated from rihevi / / — other Candelabra --^
that of Myron — an Auri^ of tiie Cinerary Urns, 4^.^
Circus— a Grecian Pmlosopher SiveniA Division. Cinerary
holding a scroll— ApoUo Sauroe- Urns — other Urns of rare marble
tonos — and four Small but beauti- — four Candelabra.
ful Sarcophagi. Eighth Divinon, Two Cande*
Gfdlery qf Canddabra^ <$<c. The labra, one being particularly valua-
Vestibule of this immense Gallery ble on account ctf the fine basH'*
contains a considerable number of rUievi with which its Pedestal is
Egyptian Antiquities. enriched !— Cinerary Urns — other
First Division. A Faun, in Vases of rare marble — ^two superb
green basalt ! — Diana of Ephesus Basins, ^
--tSmall Statues of Children — Geographiecd Qalierp, This im-
two Sepulchral Urns standing on mense apartment is furnished with
pedestals ornamented with Bassi' ancient Maps of the Papal Terri*
rf'/tm— and a Small Statue of tories, and Hermse of distinguished
Merciuy. Characters.' On its Ceiling are
Second Division. Two Tripods Frescos, by the Scholars of Ha<*
«-*-two Vases — Small Statues of phael.
Children — ^Diana-Lucifera — Gany« Beyond the Greographical Gal«
mede and the Eagle — and a Sta- lery, (on the right,) is a room
tue of a Female finely draped* hung with TapesUy, and contain-
Third Division.' A Sarcopha* ing, on its Ceiling, the Descent of
gus, adorned with bassi-rilievi re< the Holy Ghost, finely painted by
presenting Diana killing the ChMd^ Guido.
iren of Niobe — a singular Cande- The Vatican Museum is open to
iabrum representing Lilies, and the Public every Monday and
originally, perhaps, one of the Thursday, Festivals excepted, at
ornaments of a Temple of Vesta — the fifth hour before sunset, and
the Pescatore ! — Diana and a Grey- remains open four hours. Admit*
hound — SmaB Statues of Children tance may likewise be usually ob-
7^-an elegant Altar. tained on days when this Museum
Fourth Division. A Youth is not open to the Public, by an
draped — a female Fig[ure draped application to the Custode ; who,
«-^itto, with the Dorian Double thus called upon, expects a lee.
Flute — a Priesteas with the Patera Libraria P'aticano. The usual
•^-Ceres. entrance to tliis magnificent apart*
Fifth Division. A Sarcophagus ment is from the Museo Chiara-
with a Gladiator on the Lid — monti. The rooms are open to
another with a Female Fi£:ure, the Public on the same days, and
resembling Sappho, on the Lid. at the same hours, with the rest of
Sixth Division. Two of the the Vatican Museum; but the
lai^est and most beautiful Cande- Books can only be seen from nine,
lafara existing, with Pedestals em* in the forenoon, till twelve'.
. (w) The Candelabra of Mara, Mercury* Mi- scripts kaye bees used, ia latter dajrfl, for
Berva, and 1 mis, are deemed the mo-st valua- other writingfs, merely to save paruhiaent :
ble of any in the Vatican Maseum ; both with the ancient characters, however, are frequent-
IWitpect to tbeir forn, aad the elegance of ly visible b«low thoveof modern date; on «>»•
their onuuneAls eertiiiaing which, he has already been able to
(.r) The Custode who shews the Maa*. rescue from Oblivion some B^yoka of Cictriit
•cnpta, aiid attends Straofers round the Republica; The Corr9*pftndenc9 bttwe^n
apartment, aspects from two to five pauls ; FnHU0 «md Mmret AurelitUt before and after
acoordiuf to the number of tiia party. tb« Utri*r became Emperor : a Frafiment of
The Librarian here has recently ditooTezed «« Oratim ky Q. Auretius Ssfmmmhui, wuh
that some of the most valuable ancient Mann- tim Huppi^mmt •/ two •tM«r QnUiiuui aa4
22a Rome; fCh. vin
Part of the ancient manuscripts superb Tables of granite, supported
in the Vatican Library are sup- by bronze Figures finely executed,
posed to have been collected dur- Among the rare Manuscripts are
ing: the fifth century, by the Pon- several Hebrew, Syriac, Arabic,
tiif S. Hilariusj who founded a and Armenian Bibles — a Greek
Library in the Lateran Palace. Bible of the sixth century in ca-
Nicholas V (learned himself, and pital letters, written according to
a distinpfuished patron of litera- the Version of the Septuagintj
ture) added above five thousand and firom which all the subsequent
manuscripts to the original coUec- copies have been taken — a very
tion ; placing them all in 'the Vati- large Hebrew Bible, presented to
can : and as succeeding Pontiffs the library by the Dukes of Ur-
so much increased the contents of bino, and for which the Venetian
his library, that the apartment, Jews offered its weight in gold-^a
wherein they were deposited, con- Greek Manuscript, containmg the
tained them with difficulty, SixtusV Acts of the Apostles in letters of
erected, according to the designs gold : (this was given to Innocent
of Domenico Fontana, the present VIII, by Charlotte, Queen of Cy-
superb apartment, which comprises prus) — a Missal, written in 1118
forty thousand Manuscripts, and —another, adorned with Minia-'
a choice collection of Books printed tures bj[ Giulio Clovio, the scholar
in the Fifteenth Century. of Giulio Romano, and the finest
T?ie VestibtUe of this Library miniature painter of his time — a
contains Chinese Works, relative large Breviary, ornamented with
to Anatomy, Greography, and As- fine Miniatures, and presented ta
tronomy ; together with two Co» the library by Matthias Corvinus^
lumns, bearing ancient Inscrip- King of Hungary — ^the Annals of
tions. Baronius, written with his own
The Ante-room is ornamented hand in twelve volumes — several
with a Ceiling painted by Marco volumes of Ecclesiastical History,
di Firenze, and Paul Brills by the learned Onofrio Panvinio,
The great Saloon has Fres- Augustine — a Martyrology, curi-
cos, by Zuccari, on its Ceiling, ous on account of its antiquity,
and a good Picture in oil, by Sci- and its Miniatures — Manuscripts
pio Gaetano, near the Door of relative to S. Carlo Borromeo— a
Entrance, and representing Six- manuscript Pliny, with beautifiil
tus V receiving, firom Fontana, the Miniatures of Animals^a Virgil of
Plan of the Library. Round the the fifth centuiy, written in ca-
Walls are Presses to enclose the pital letters, and illuminated with
Manuscripts ; any of which, on Miniatures representing thiBTrojans
being asked for, are immediately and Latians m the dress of their
shewn. This room contains a own times* — a Terence equally
Sarcophagus of white marble with ancient — another Terence, of the
a Winding Sheet of Asbestos, nine ninth century, illuminated with
Roman palmi in length, and seven ancient Masks — a beautiful Tassa
in breadth — Etruscan and Grecian — a Dante 'a4omed with exquisite
Vases — Cinerary Urns — and two Paintings, begun by the Floren-
ce Suppfement to the Oothic Vlpian Com- use of Students, from November till Jane,
mentnnes. A %\%\\t of these Manascripts may- Festivals, Thursdays, and some other days
be obtained by any Foreigner who is acquaint' excepted.
ed with the Librarian. (z) These paintings are not good r but they
(;y) Thi« Library, according to the notice in. . have been, excellently engraved by Santi
the Ante-room appropriated to the Transla- Bartoli ; and may be purchased at the Calebs
tors of the Hebrew, Arabic, Syriac, Greek graiia Camerale.
and Latin languages, is open daily, for the*
Ph,YJL] HOME. 221
^ne School, and fipishied by Giulio Antiquiti^ foUnd in the CatH-
Cloyio — a Treatise on the seven combs — Instruments used in tor-
Sax^raments. composed by Henry turing the.. primitive Christians—
VIII, of England — original Letters and a Portrait of the Emperor
between that Prince and Anna Charlemagne, in stucco. Near
Bullen — several Papers written by the end of this Gallery is a Cabi"
Luther — the Lives of Federico di net superbly enriched, with por-
Monte Felhre, and Francesco-Ma- phyry and other precious marbles,
ria della Povera, Dukes of Ur- hung round with specimens of the
bino, adorned with exquisite Mi- Egyptian Papyrus, and exhibit-
niatures by Giulio Clovio — several ing, on its Ceiling, the chef"
Manuscripts written on Egypt an doeuvre of Menss ; who has re-*
papyrus — and the Gospels of S. presented, over the Doors, Mosea
Luke and S. John, written in the and S. Peter, beautifully painted,
tenth century, and bound in ivory V though less worthy of admiration
From the upper end of this apart- than the four Uenii, and th^
ment branch two immensely long four Children, on the Coves of the
Galleries. Ceiling I ! In the centre of this
The Gallery on the right is Ceilini^ is History resting upon
supported by fine Columns of por- the "Wmgs of Time a Tablet, sup-
phyry ; two of which, with Figures posed to record the Works of Cle-
pn the top, were taken from the ment XIV ; while a' Genius pre*
Arch of Constantine. Here are sents Scrolls of Papyrus, fcy means
modem Paintings— Presses filled of which the Pontitfs fame may
with Books— Etruscan and Gre- be transmitted to posterity. Ja-
cian Vases — and, at the extremity nus is introduced into the Picturet
of the Gallery, a Cabinet con-» as indicative of the present and
taining beautiful Camei of Ju- the past: he appears to be dic-
piter, ^sculapius, ^. — Etruscan tating to History. This Cabinet
Antiquities, (among which is the also contains two Candelabra,
recumbent figure of a Child !) — of Sevres Porcelain, given by Na-
tive finest Bust extant of Angus- poleon to Pius VII. Beyond the
tus ! ! ! — a Bust of Nero — ditto of cabinet of Mengs are two Rooms
Septimius Severus — an ancient in a direct line, (one of which
silver Salver or Shield — Human contains printed Books,) and two
Hair found in a sarcophagus — rooms on the right ; one of which
^iicient Seals, Rings, ^c, contains a cel^jrated Collection
The commencement of the Gait of Engravings ; beautiful Etrus-
lery on the left, contains very can and Grecian Vases, and a
fine Etruscan and Grecian Vases Ceiling painted by Guido ; th9
— Presses filled with Books — a other contains magnificent Vases,
Statueof S.Hippolito^, seatedina and ancient Inscriptions fixed in
chair which exhibits the celebrated the walls,
pascal Calendar, and was found in Chiesa delta Trinita de' Monti,
the Cemetery of S. Lorenzo— and The Sacristy annexed to this
a Statue qf Aristides of Smyrna, Church contains the celebrated
The second division contains a Deposition from the Cross, by
Ceiling, by Pozzi, which repre- Daniello da Volterra I ! ! one of
sents the Church and Religion — the very finest frescos at Rome,
a (collection of Lamps, and other The Chiurch contains the Murder
(a) It seems extraordinary that there are Christians.
no ancient Rituals here, to shew the altera- (6) This is the most ancient marble statue
iiong 8ni>po8ed to have taken place in Church- extant of a Christian ; it was executed m the
cereqaonies $i9ce the time ot the primitive time of Aleq^adeT Sererns.
tn nowL iCh.rit
o# the fnnocenbt t another cele- tag 4he Titans ; on another are
bra|ed Fresco hy the same great Religion and Faiths urith Yolup-
painter ; and in the Ohiurch like- tuousness beneath on the left, and
wise is a copy, or vhat appears Silenus on the right On the third
to be nearly a copy of the I>epo- side are fibres of Justice and
sition from the Cross, painted on Abundance ii^^^e air ; and, below
eanvas, and cruell? injured. them. Charity on the right, and
Before, this Church Pius VI Hercules killing the Harpies on
o-ected an Egyptian Obelisk, forty- the left. On the fourth side is
fbur Paris feet and a half in a Figure which represents tlM
height, (excltMive of its pedestal,) Chur3i, accompanied by Prudence/
charged with ^llieroglyphics, and sending Peace to shut the Tempk
found, as already mentioned, in of Janus, chasing the Eumenides,
the Circus of Sallust and' ordering Vulcan to forge arms
' Chif^a dei P. P* Cappucdnu for the defence of Rome,
in Piazza-BarberinL This Piazza The Staircase at the other end
is supposed to have made part of the Portim of. entrance leads to
of the ancient Circus of Flora; Apartments containing Statues
where, according to Suetonius, and Sarcophagi, (some of which
elephants danced on T0{)es. The were found at Palestrina;) to-^
Chiesa dei P. P. Cappuccini is rich geth«r with several fine Pictures,
in paintings. The first Picture Among these are — S. ^atthew,
on the right represents the Arch- by Guercino — S. Luke, by the
Angel Michael; and is considered same master — the Holy Famity,
to be Guide's finest easel poduc- by Parmigianino — S, Carlo Bor-
tion!!! S. Paul receivmg his romeo, by Pietro da Cortona-**'
sight, in the Chapel opposite to S. Girolamo, by Spagnotetto— the
that which contains the Arch- An- Guitar Player, by. Caravaggio~«S.
gel, is by Pietro da Cortonall Andrea Corsini, by Guido — the
and over the Door of the Church Death of Germanicus, by Nicolas
is a Cartoon, by Giotto, from which Poussin I — a small Landscape, fay
the Mosaic, called The Navicella, Claude, between two snmll Pic«
and placed in ^e Portico of S. tures, the one painted by Guerdno,
Peter's, was taken I the other by Albano — a Head, by
Palazzo- Barberim, Stairease &t Tintoretto — Raphael's JFbrwanWa,
the lejt end of the Portieo of en- painted l^ himself! — the Portrait
trance. A fine Btaso-riltevo at the of a Lady, by Titian ! — a Picture,
foot of the Stairs — a fine AUo-ri-' by .Albert Durer — ^Adam and Eve
lieeo of a Lion (taken from Pales- quitting Paradise, by Domenichi-
trina,) near the first Landing Place, no I — the Cenei, by Guido t — and
First Fioor, The Ceiling of the her Mother, by Scipio Gaetano.
principal Hall of entrance was The Barberini Library, whic^
painted by Pietro da Cortonal! contains near fifty thousand Printed
The "Subjects are allusive to Urban Volumes, besides Manusmpts, is
VIII. The centre exhibits the open to the Public every Monday
Barberini arms carried to Heaven and Thursday morning «^
by the Virtues, in |»-esence of Pro- Chiesa di S". Maria deUa Vit^
Ttdence, who is surrounded by toria. The Front of this Edifice
Time, Eternity, and the Fates, was built after the designs of Gio«
On one side is Minerva vanquish- ranni-Baltista Soria ; and tiie m*
(c) The Barberini- Palace is shewn from ten is nsnal to give, at Rome, as in other cities of
in the morning till two. , Italy . from three to Ave pa als, acoordiag to Hie
Persons wishing to ensure admittance, at number of the party aduiirted : and in subteir^
tny given hour, to PaUces, or Villas, should ranean apartments, where the Cnstode provides
apply a day befbxdurad. At a f alsce it wax lights, it is twuia to give thx«e panls.
.€b.yil] BOMXL iSS,
Ittior partafter ^ose of Ckrlo Ma* on tiie right; a Picture of 8, Fraili
damp: it is considered, in pohit of ceseo Saverio, by Baciccio ; .by
architecture, to be one of the most whom likewise are the Paintings
beautiful Churches at Rome. The on each side. The Crucifixion of
inside exhibits Pilasters of Sicilian S. Andrew, over the High-altar, is
jasper, a well painty Ceiling, a by Borgognone; and the next
handsome marble Pavement, good Chapel, dedicatal to S. Stanislas,
Altar-pieces, and fine sculpture, is ornamented with a Picture of
llie Paintings in the second Cha- that Saint, by Carlo Maratta ;
pel, on the right, are by Domeni-* and a Sarcophagus of lapis lasuli,
chinol The last Chapel, in the containing his ashes«/ In the Coa«
cross-aisle, contains a Group, in ventual Edifice alining to this
marble, of Joseph and an Angel, Church is a Chapel, once the
WDomenieo Guidi: the opposite chamber of S. Stanislas, whidi
Chapel, on the left, contains a contains his Statue, by Le Gros I
Group of S. Teresa and an Angel, PalazzO'PoniiJieio. Thisprincelj
by Bernini. Here, likewise, are two Structure is situated on the Qui-
Sarcophagi ornamented with fine rinal Hill ; and stands on tht
Busts, by Bernini ; and an Alto^ ruins of the Baths of Constantine;
rilievo, in bronze, representing the It was l>egun by Paul III, con-
Last Supper, by the same artist, tinned by Gregory XII I, and fi«
The ne^ Chapel is embellished nished by succeeding Pontiff^
with fine marbles ; and contains The Court-vard, or open Quad*
an Altar-piece, ^ Guercino ; with rangle of the palace, is upward
a Picture, on each side, b]^ Guido* of three hundr^ feet long, by one
Ibntanadi Termine, ThisFoun- hundred and sixty-five wide; three
tain, which is opposite to the parts being surrounded with Por-
Church of S*. Maria della Vittoria, ticos. The Staircase on the right
was erected by Fontana, at the leads to an immense Hall, the
command of Sixtus V. In the Frieze of which was painted by
centre of the £difice is a Statue LanfV'anco and Carlo Saraceni :
of Moses; and on each side a and over the door of the large
Basso-rilievo ; the one represent- Chapel, at the end of the Hall,
ing Aaron conducting the I^tielites is a fine Basso-rilievo, by Taddeo
to quench their thirst ; the other, Landini, of our Saviour washing
Gideon encouraging them to pass the feet of his Disciples, lliis
the river Jordan, and directing his Chapel, in size and shape similar
soldiers to lead the way. This to the Cappella-Sistina at the
Fountain is Kkewise ornamented Vatican, was fitted up with great
with four Lions, two of whioh are elegance, by Pius VII, who re*
white marble, and two basalt ; the sided chiefly on Monte^Cavallo.
latter being Egyptian sculpture. Contiguous to the large Chapel
and highly estimated. They were is a magnificent suite of apart*
removed trom the Portico of the ments splendidly furnished in the
Pantheon, to be placed in their French style, and enriched with
present situation. The Plinths on a good collection of Pictures ;
which these Lions rest are basalt, among which are, in the Jirstroom^
charged with Hieroglyphics. Saul and David, by Guercmo !— S.
Chiesa di S* Andrea a Monte- Agnes, by Annibale Caracci — ^an
Cavaiio. This beautiful littk j^cce /fomo, by Domenichino — a
Church was built by Bernini, in Sketch of the Transfiguration, by
th^ form of an ancient temfde: Raphael !— The Martyrdom of the
it is adorned with fine marbles; Jesuits, by Bassano---4he Madonna
md £OQtaina» in the first Chapel and our Savioor* by Guido--Si
.224 ROMK ICfi.Vn.
Catherine, by Annibale Oaracci den contadns a Pavilion, the out-
•-^ Ditto, by the Cav. d'Arpino — side of which is omiamented with
S.John, by Giulio Romano — the four large Basn'rilievi, found in
"Madonna and our Saviour, by Trajan*s Forum, and three small
Rubens — the same subject, by ones, found in the Baths of Con^
Baroccio — ^the Maiionna, our Sa- stantine. On the Ceiling of the
viour, S. John, &c., by Palma principal room of the Pavilion is
Vecchio, The small Chapel, ad- the celebrated Aurora of Guido ;
joining to this room, is beautifully according to many opinions, the
painted, by Guido ; the subject finest- Fresco at Rome til Here
being the Life of the Madonna; and likewise are two Loves, by the
the Annunciation, over the Altar, same artist ; two Landscapes, by
is particularly admired. The second Paul Brill: two Paintings, by
room contains Pictures of Ani- Tempesta, both taken from Pe-
mals, by Petri. The third room is trarca ; the one represents the Tri-
omamented with a fine Ceiling, umph of Fame, and the other the
STAtf/owr/A, with a Frieze, byThor- Triumph of Love: two Columns
waldsen, representing the Triumph of rosso antico ; a bronze Horse,
of Alexander, and a fine Ceiling, and a Statue of Diana : the four
The fifth room contains an elegant last were found in Constantine*s
Bed, and a fine Frieze, representing Baths.
the Triumph of Trajan, by Finetti. Room on the right. Death of
In the sixth room are Copies of Sampson, by Lodovico Caracci—
Raphael's Arabesques, and a fine head of Guido, by himself — Gar*
IVieze by Sig. Alessandro d'Este ; den of Eden, by Domenichino— -
and, in the seventh room, a beau- and Sophonisba, after having swal-
tiful Chimney-piece, and a Ceiling lowed poison, by Calabrese.
by Palagi. The ninth room con* Boom on the left The Triumph
tains a Picture of S. Peter, by of David, by Domenichino I — ^the
Fra. Bartolwnmeo I ! — S. Paul by Saviour, and the twelve Apostles,
the same preat artist ! ! — S. Giro- (each being a separate picture,)
lamo, by Spagnoletto— S. Cecilia, by Rubens — the Saviour bearing
by Vanni — S. George, by Porde- his Cross, by Daniello da Vol-
none — our Saviour disputing with terra — Conjugal Love, by Gior*
the Doctors, by Caravag^o I! — ^the gione — Andromeda, by Guido —
Adoration of the Magi, by Guer- a Love, by Nicolas Poussin — ^head
cino — ^the Marriage of S. Cathe- of Ditto, by himself — the five
rine, by Battoni — S. Cecilia, S. Senses, by Carlo .Cigniani I — and
Agnes, &c., by Caracioli — S. Se- an Ecce Homo, by Guido. Busts
bastiano, by Paolo Veronese-^the of Adrian, Septimms Severus, Ci^
Ascension of our Saviour, by Van- cero, and Seneca, found in the
dyck — and a Picture by Annibale Baths of Constantine ; and the
Caracci, representing a Legend. celebrated Bust, in basalt, of Sci->
These Apartments cannot be pio Africanus, found, according
$een without an order from the toFulviusUrsinus, at Lintemum;
Cardinal Secretary of State, when and bearing, on the right side of
the Sovereign resides in this Pa- the head, a mark which resembles
lace ; but, when he does not, they a Scar. This mark may be seen
may be seen at any time, by an on the marble bust of Scipio, in
application to the Swiss Guards, the Capitol; and likewise on his
in the Quadrangle. bust in the Villa- Albani.
Palazzo- Rospigliosi, This Edi* Fontana di Trevi. The water
fice was erected on the ruins of which supplies this beautiful Foun*
Con6tantine'9 B^ths ; and ita Gart tain was brought to Rom.e by
Ch. VII.] ROME. 225
Agrippa, for the use of his Baths ; Church of the Madonna del Po-
and derives its name of Aqua Vir- polo: the Statue of Judith is by
^tm> from a young female Peasant, Le Brun; and that of David by
who discovered the Spring, and Pietro Pacilli. The third Chapel
shewed it to some famishing sol- on the right contains a Pictiu-e of
diers. It is deemed the best water S. BamsSa, by Mola I
at Rome. The decorations of this Chiesa di S, Lorenzo in Lu-
Fountain were desired bv Niccolo cina. The High-altar here is en-
Salvi, at the command of Clement riched with a cdebrated Picture
XII. The Statues represent Ocea- of the Saviour on the Cross, by
nus. Salubrity, and Abundance ; Guido !
and the Bas^-rilievi over the two Chiesa di S, Ignazio, This mag-
last, represent Agrippa and the niiicent edifice was erected by Car-
Peasant-girl. dinal Lodovico Lodovisio, chiefly
Chiesa di S^, Maria del Popolo, after the designs of Domenichino :
This Church contains, in the first it is ornamented wjth fine anti(}ue
and third Chapels, to the right. Columns of marble ; and contains
Paintings by Pinturicchio : the in- two beautiful Chapels made after
termediate Chapel has an Oil- the designs of the celebrated Father
Sainting on the Wall, by Carlo Pozzi, a Jesuit. That on the right
laratta. The Paintings in the is adorned with an Alto-rilievo, by
Tribuna are by Pinturicchio ; and Le Gros, representing S. Luigi
the Chapel to the right of the Gonzaga,whose relics are deposited
High- altar contains a Picture of here, in a tomb incrusted with
the Assumption, by Annibale Ca- lapis lazuli. The other Chapel
racci ! The Chigi-Chapel was de- contains a Basso-rilievo, by Filippo
corated according to the designs of Valle, representing the Annuncia-^
Raphael ; and contains a Statue of tion. Here, Ukewise, is the Monu-
Jonas, designed by him, and exe- ment of Gregory XV, by Le Gros ;
cuted under his immediate orders, and a Pictiu-e of S. Giuseppe dying,
bv Lorenzetto ! ! The Statue of by Trevisani ! The Ceilings of the
Elias also is supposed to have Nave and Tribuna are painted by
been designed by Raphael; the Pozzi; and the former represents
other Statues were done by Bernini, the Apotheosis of S. Ignatius ;
Near this Chapel is the singular from whose head issue rays, em-
Monument of the Princess Odes- blematical of his. having enlight-
calchi Chigi. ened the four quarters of the world.
Chiesa di S, Carlo al Corso. Chiesa de' S, S. Apostoli. This
This splendid Church was begun noble Structure was erected bv
according to the designs of Onbrio Constantine; and afterwards rebuilt
and Martino Lunghi, and finished by Fontana. The Portico of the
by Pietro da Cortona ; who erected old Edifice is still entire ; and con-
the Cupola. The picture which tains an. antique Basso-rilievo of
adorns the High-altar is by Carlo an Eagle, at one end ; and at the
Maratta, and represents the Apo- other, a Basso-rilievo of Friend-
theosis of S. Carlo ! The Tribuna, ship deploring the death of Vol-
the An^es of the Cupola, and the pato, by Canova. The Church is
Ceiling of the Nave, were painted divided into three aisles by Pilas-
by Brandi. The Chapel in the ters of the Corinthian order. The
Cross, on the right, was desiefaed Ceiling of the Nave was painted
by the Cav. Paolo Posi; and the by Baciccio; and represents the
Picture in Mosaic, with which it is Triumph of S. Francesco. The
ornamented, was copied from that Ceiling of the Tribuna was painted
painted by Carlo Maratta in the by Odazzi, and represents the FaU
ii4 ^jOti&s i&k,Vtk
at the Aihg^ls t ? Th€l fFigh-^ar^ lile^ Ifie ^sigrtei ^ F^^fh^ TGfd,
piece i* l^ Domefifkjhino Muratori. is pecti^arly miigtiifieent ; the C^-
ftie fest Chapel, ori the ri^ht, near Itdnns which Udom the Attar MA^
the Grest Door, and the Chapel in lapis lazuli Hilted -v^h hronze ^ *
the Cross, on the rig^t, are parfi-^ af«i the Globe held by the DeitJ
cularly rich in marbles; and a^- the largest piece of lapis lAttifi
J(yining to the latter, is another ever seen. Above the AKaSr, hi a
Chapel, which contains eight beau- Niche inerasf ed with lapis lazv^i,
tiful antique fluted Columns* of is a demi-eelossdl silver Statue 6i
White marble. The Second Chapel S. I^atius, accoofipanied by three
on ttie left near the Great Door, is Angels, and done after the designs
oiTfiaraented wrfh particularly fine of Le Gros. The reiM^s of the
Colirainsof verdeairtique and othei^ Saint repose under the Altar, in »
marbles : and over the Door of the Tomb of bronze gilt, enriched with
Sacristy is the Monument of Cle- basH-rilievi afid precious stones :
ftient ilV, b^ Canova ; who has atwi otf one side of the Altar is
placed fhe Statue of the Pope be-' a celebrated Grotip of Reli^«
tween twa female figures, namely, vanquishing Heresy, by Le Gros ; «
Temperance and Huraililty. This and on the other side a Grbup, by
Church contains another fine Mo- Teudone, which represents Idola-«
nument, by Pozzi, adorned with a trous Nations embracing Ghristi-
beautiful Group representing Cha- anity. The Ceiling was painted by
^ty. Baciccio. This Church contains^
Chiesa di Sf«. Maria di Loretio. one of the best organs at Rome * ,
"this little Church, considiered as Cktesa di S. Andrea deiia ValiSi
a fine piece of architecture, was According to some opinions, thiiS
built by San^allo ; andhasadou- noble Edifice stands on' 1^
ble Cupola, like S.Peter's : it con- Site of the C&ria of S*ompey,
tains a celebrated Statue of S. Su-' where Gaftsaar was assassinated :
sanna, by Fiamingo. its Cupola, by Lanfi-aneo, is tt
Ckiesa di Gesit, This magni- master-piece If the four Evange-*
ficent Edifice was erected hy Car- lists in the Angles are by Dotiae-^
dinal Alessandro Farnese after Mchino ; and the S. John is called
^e plan of Vignola ; and finish-' his ch^f-danwre in this description
ed by Giacomo della Porta. The of painting. The Ceiling of the
Frescos on the Ceiling of the Trifeufta was done by the same
Nave, Tribuna, and Cupola, are great artist, and represents thd
by Baciccio*; who has represented Life of S. Andrew: thethyee large
S. Francesco Saverio ascending Frescos on the Walls of the Tri*
to Heaven ! ! The Angles of the buna are by Calabrese, and repre-
cupola are particularly beautiful, sent the Martyrdom of S. Andrew**
The Chapel in the Cross, on the The Strozzi- Chapel was^ desired
right, was made after the designs by Michael Angelo ; and the Bar-
of Pietro da Cortona ; and con- berini- Chapel is rich in marbled
tains a Picture bv Carlo Maratta, and sculpture, and in Fainting!?, by
representing the Death of S. Fran- Passignano.
cesco Sttverio. The High-altar Chitsa della Trinii^ de" P^e^
is decorated with fine Columns of grini. This Church contains d
giallo antico, and a Kcture of the High-altar-piece by Guide, repre-*
Circumcision, by M'uziano ! The senfing the Trinity. Our Savioirf
Chapel of S. Ignatius, executed is on the Cross accompanied \x^
(ti) There freqnently U fine mtisie in this festival of Corpos X)Otniifi; and fbif sfottilerdBftt
Church; especiaily on the last day of the after,
old year, the fint dBy of the new year, the
Ch. VIIJ
&6MIS.
S97
two kileiaiflf Angels : his ftgitrfe hmk ; which ksl teprtsetiti* Ihfe
and countenance are particularly Assumption. The Altaf-piece tff
fine i over the Cross hovers a Dove ; the first Cha]pel ofl the right wai
and higher up, is God the Fa- doile by Scipio Gaetatfo— the
therflf *f he representation of the dead Christ, in the next Chapel,
Deity in the Lanteiiti is likewise by is i, Copy from Cararag^o** cele'.
Gtnido, brated Pictute in the ViUidm,
Chiesa Hi S. Carlo de' Catinarii The High-iatar is criHamented with
This inr a noble Edifice^ adorned four ftne Columns of Porta- Santai
with one of the most beautiful and a ^tfpeirb Ciborio. The Trt^
Cupolas in Rome. The Ceiling buna contain^ Paintings, byRu^
of the Tribuna was painted by bens ; but they ate consideHiM|i
Lanfrahco ; and the Cardinal Vir- dama^ted. The Chapel of Si. Fi-
tues, in the Angles of the Cupola, lippo Meri,- under one of the Or-*
by Domenichitio : they are Strik- gans, contains his ashes, atid hiA
ingl^ fine ; particiilariy the figure of Portrait iti md^aic, eopied fhrtW
Fortitude ! ! ! The Annunciation iii the original bf Guido \ tne Chapel
the first Chapel, on the right of the Utidef the other Of^ati ckmtaini^ a
Entraace-door, is by Lanfii-anco \ Picture, by Carlo Mai-atta. The
and the Dedth of S. Anna^ in one 6f next chapel to that 6f S. Filippo
t|ie Chapels ofthe Cross, by Andrea Neri contains a Picture, by Ba*
Saechi? The High-altar is deco- toccio, of the Presentation <rf the
rated with four colunms of por- Madonna in the Temple! The
phyry, and a Picture by Pietro da following Altar-piece is bt the
Cortoha. The Ceiling of the Sa- fiame artist, and re^fesents th^
eristy was paitited by Lanfi-anco^ Visitatioii; and the Paintings id
and represents the Assumption ; the last Chapel are by the Cav;
and an Adjoii!iin£r Room contains d'Arpino. The Sacristy id etirieheci
a Portrait of S. Carlo, by Guido •! with a Statue bt S. Filippo Neri,
Chiesa di S. Giovanni d^ Mo- by Algardi ! a Picture Of the Ma.s
rmtini. This fine Church, erect- donna contemplating the CroWfi
edi according to the designs of of Thorns, by Trevisaiii; ahd a
Giaeomoi defla Porta, contains a Ceiling finely painted by Pietro dd
Picture <rf the Martyrdom of Saints Cortona I TM apartnienti abotf^-^
Cosimo and Damiano, by Salvator stctirs eotltain a Ceiling Which
Rosa! a Chapel painted by Lan- represents S. Filippo Neri,^c.i hf
firance! aPictureofS.Girolamoby Pietro da Cortona; the Portrart
Gigoli ; and the Monumefit of one of the Saint, from which the Mo-'
of the Corsini family, by Algardi. saic in the Church Was taken ; arid
Chiesa di S, Maria in Valli-i a Head cft bur Saviour^ by Pietro
cella, commonly called Chiesa Perugino? > ,
Nuovd. This splendid Church CXiesa di S«. Maria dglla Pm^*
was built by S. Fflippo Neri^ Here, on the right of the Great
after the designs of Martino Door, afe Rajm^ers eelebrated
Lunghi and Pietro da Cortona } Stbyls^ suppoftA to tjfe predieiifig
the latter of whom paihted the the Birth ol otu* SatiourMf! This
Oeihng of the Nave, the Cupola^ inestimable Fresco^ eoni^ei'ed/ ifi
and the upper part of the Tri- point of composition, as the sub-
{/!) Thtf.Chtirch of S. Carlo de' Catinati con-
tams a Monament to the memory of Lorenzo
^|)erandi; with «ii epitaph, which records,
th«t he was fsmotis for terminating amicably
thf! differences which occurred amongst h^
HitMbi inA ^elfttions— an tmcotnmon pane-
gyric ; though one of tte ^resfe^t, perbipsj
that can be bestowed on any mail.
(/) If the Etrurians were, as some au-
thors sttppose, originally Cananeians, proI)ablT
they might bring the Old Testament intb
Italy :— and ad the Romans borrowed many of
their religious ceremonies Jrom tlje Etrunang,
It Se<m8 fiOr i<i infer tluittb^ SibytXtne 9raaif
Q 2
228 KOME. [Ch.VII.
limest work ofRaphaelf was almost cmartments on the ground Jhor;
obliterated, and would soon have tne first room of which contains —
been totally extinct, had not a Christ taken into Custody, by Van-
living artist restored it; and so derstem — a Sibyl, by Guido Cag-
well has he executed this difficult nacci — ^the Adoration of the Magi,
task, that every lover of the art of by Jacopo Bassano— S. Peter, by
painting would wish to see him l^agnoletto — Sketch of S. Doine-
employed in restoring those Fres- mco, by Giorgione — S. Cathe-
cos of the Stanze di Raffaello, rine of Siena, by AgostinO Ca-
which are hastening rapidly to racci — the Holy Family, by Garo-
decay. Above the Sibyls are four folo — the Madonna and Infant
Prophets, likewise by Raphael. Jesus, by Sassoferrato^the same
The Frescos on the left of the great siibject, by Andrea del Sarto— the
door are attributed to Timoteo Nativitv, by Mazzolini di Ferrara
d*Urbinp. The first Chapel, on the — ^and the Crucifixion by I^andro
right, is ^ubellished with good Bassano. 77ie second room con-
sculpture ; and this Church also tains — ^Diana shooting, by Dome-
contains a picture of the Visitation, nichino 1 1 — the Deposition from
by Carlo Maratta ; and another the Cross, by Federico Zuccari l-r-
of the Presentation by Balthazar Head of the Magdalene, by Agos-
PeruzzL . tino Caracci! — ^Head of Christ, by
Chiesa di S. Agostino, Here Annibale Caracci! — the Deposi-
is a celebrated Fresco of the Pro- tion from the Cross, by Garofolo —
phet Isaiah, by Raphael, placed to three Cabinet Pictures, by the same
the left of the Great Door, and on master — Christ bearing his Cross,
the third Pilaster of the Nave 1 7 by Muziano — Head of S. Antonio
Here, likewise, in the Chapel of by Agostino Caracci — Head of S.
S. Agostino, are three Paintings, francesco, by Annibale Caracci —
y Guerciiio : another of the Cha- two Landscapes, by Francesco
pels was painted by Lanfranco ; Bolognese — ^the Madonna, the In-
and another contains a Group, in fant Jesus, and S. John, by Pie-
marble, representing the Madonna, rino del Vaga — Christ and his
the Infant Jesus, and S. Andrew, Disciples, by Bonifazio — Lucretia,
§r Andrea Contucci da Sansovino. by Vasari — Leda, by the same
ne of the Altars is ornamented master — Troy in flames, by Baroc-
witli the Statue of a Saint, by Er- cio— a Precepe by Tibaldi, one of
cole Ferrata; and another Altar Michael Angelos scholars — and
exhibits the Madonna di Loretto, Diana's Bath, by Poelenburg. This
by Caravaggio. room likewise contains a Sarco-
Conti^ous to this Church is a phagus of poiphyry, found in
Public fibr^, deemed the best in Adrian's Mausoleum ; and there-
Rome, except those of the Vatican, fore supposed to have lield his
«nd the Minerva. ashes. Third room, — A Stoiy
t PalcuzO'Borghese, This is a from Ariosto, by Lanfranco — 8.
\ /Splendid Edifice, and particularly Francesco and Angels, by Annibale
.rich in Pictures: those usually Caracci I — S. Antonio preaching
J shewn to Strangers are in the to the Fishes, by Paolo Veronese J
might be derived from the Bible. UhycA^ro^ Christian zeltgion, in yenies recorded by Ea-
phegied;" That the day would come when all sebius; the first letters of which, beinr uat
sen would see the King of all living things.** together, make the words. " Jesus Christ Sa»
CtuBSsa, a Babylonian, prophesied ; " that God o/Ood^ Saviour ;" and Persica foretold »' That
woold be bom of a Virgin, and converse among the womb of the Virgin would prove the mml.
aiimers." Delphica prophesied ; •• That a vation of the Gentiles."
Prophet would be bom of a Virgin.** Ery thraea. The word, Sibylla, is oriental, and sianiiie.
» JMbfXxmiw, foretpW » r«»t PWt of th^ • Gleaner pf can ©f Jpni, ' wasignuiw
Ch. Vnj ROME. ' 2^9
a Portrait, by Andrea Sacchi ! — a Prodij^al Son,byTitian — a Boy with
Portrait, by Pietro da Cortona ! — Flowers, by Caravag^o I — a Faun,
Head of Raphael, by himself!— ty Lodovico Caracci! — the Holy
Pordenone and bis Family, by Family, by Agostino Caracci — and
himself !-:— the Madonna and Infant a Cabmet Picture, representing the
Jesus,byGarofolo-^the same sub- Resurrection of Lazarus, by the
ject,by Giovanni Bellino — ^the same same master. Eighth room. — ^The
subject by Francfi — Head of Pe- Graces, by Titian ! ! — ^the Prodigal
trarca, by Holbein — ^two Pictures, Son, by Guercino I — ^the Saviour on
by Gentileschr— the Holy Family, the Cross, by Vandyck! — Cattle,
by Palma Giovane — S. Catherine, by Paul Potter !— a Small Head of
and other Saints, by Parmigianino Christ, by Carlo Dolci ! — ^a small
— the Last Supper, School of Head of the Madonna, by the same
Titian — ^5. John, by Paolo Vero- master! — Sampson, by Titian, (a
nese— the Holy Family, by Pome- Sketch)— Portrait of Cosimo de'
rarichio— Lucretia, by Bronzino— Medici, by Bronzino — the Resur-
and the Holy Family, by Lumi rection of Lazarus, by Garofolo —
Fontana. Fourth room.'—TheBer the Magdalene, by Andrea del
position from the Cross, by Ra- Sarto— me Flagellation, by Graro-
phael!! — the same subject, by folo— two Portraits painted on mar-
Vandyck ! — Circe, by Dosso Dossi ble, by Bronzino — and the Holy
— the Visitation, by Rubens!— Family, by Caravaggio. Ninth
Saul and David, by Giorgione !— room. — ^A Concert, by Leonello
S. Cecilia, by Domenichino I— S. Spada !— the Madonna and Infant
John, copied from Raphael, by Jesus, by Carlo Dolci! — Lot and
Giulio Romano — ^Europa, by the his Daughters, by Gherardo delle
Cav. d'Arpino— the Flagellation, Notti— the Holy FamUy, by Venuti
by Sebastiano del Piombo— a —the same subject, by Scipio Gae-
Group of Persons eating, by Te- taho— the same subject, by Andrea
niers— the Birth of the Madonna, del Sarto— the same subject, by
School of Titian— two of the Apos- Giovanni Bellino— the wife of Ti-
ties, in separate pictures, by Mi- tian, by himself— the Holy Family,
chael Angelo — ^Vanity, by Luini— by Garofolo— the Madonna and
and a Head, by Paris Bordone. Infant Jesus, bv Frangi— the As-
Fifth Room, — Four oval Pictures, cension, by Taddeo Zuccari — and
by Albanol!— the Madonna and a Cook, by Caravaggio.
Infant Jesus, by Andrea del Sarto Pulazzo-Sciarra. The second
—the Holy Family, School of Ra- Btoru of this Edifice contains a
phael— the same Subject, by Lo- small, but choice cdlection of Pic-
tenzo Tecreti— the Woman detected tures; the greater part of which
inAdultery, by Bonifezio— S.John, once enriched the Palazzo- Barbe-
bv Giulio Romano— Battle of Cour rini. First room.— Chnst beanng
stantine, by the Cav. d'Arpino— his. Cross, by the Cav. d'i^pmo—
Venus, by Padovanini—the Holy S*. Barbara, by Pietro da Cortona
Family, by Fra Bartolommeo—and —Noli me tangere, by Garofolo !—
Lucretia,Schoolof Guido!— 5fix^A, the Madonna and our Saviour, by
room —The Forfiarina, by Giulio Giovanni Bellino— a fine Copy of
Romano— and several Pictures of the Transfiguration, by Carlo Na-
Venus, &c. by various masters, politano— ^S. Sebastiano, by Pietro
Seventh room.-^SB.cred and Pro- Perugino— Christ and the Woman
fane Love, by Titian I !— Portrait of Samaria, by Garofolo I— S*.
of Caesar Borgia, by Raphael ! !— Francesca and an Angel, by Carlo.
Portrait of a Cardinal, by Raphael Venetiano— Abraham's S«^e,
— Portrait, by Pordenone I— the by Gherardo delle NotU—Raphads
Mi mm. [m.ni.
fbffi^rtna, by GiuHo Bomaao — a Aveadia cdntenqilatbig a Hvmau
Small Piefufeoftfae Madonna and Skull, by Schidonef— Fortxait of
our Saviour, by Titian — another; a Youth, by Kaphael !— Head of
of the Holy Family, by 9a$sano--4 S. John, after Decapitation, by
another of the Deposition fbom the dl'iorgione — th& Madonna, the Sa*
Cross, by Bassano^— a Large An- viour, and S. John, by Fra Barto-*
^que Pamting, subject unknown, lommeo; together wim Small Ficr
iSf^cdncfroom.— A Small Landscape^ tures by Breughel, Albano, &c. ,
by Paul Bi^ — ^two Landscapes, by EeUazzo'Doria, This magnifi- /
CHaude Lorrain I — ^two ditto, by Fia- cent Palace contains a large and fine ^
mingo— two, of a larger size, by collection of Pictures; among which
fioth ! — Gupid, by the Oav. Lan£ are the most celebrated Landscapes
— two Sma!U Landscapes, by Breur at Rome. TAe fifst apartment.
^^ 1 and, between them, a Small shewn to strangers, is ornamented
^aude — a Landscape, by Nicolas with a Painting qn the Ceiling,
Poussin -— several othei^ Land- byPietrodaCortona; it represents
scapes ; and a Picture representing Noah's Sacrifice. Tke second
the Church of Gesii, during the apartment contains Landscapes in
Canonisation' of S. Ignatius and S. tempera, by Gasparo Poussin, Cicr
Francesco Sarerio : the architec- cio Napolitano, &c. The third
tural part of this painting is by 6a- apartment likewise contains Land-
fiani, and the ^giires are by Andrea scapes, by Gasparo Poussin ; and
$acchi. ' Third room, — The Holy a Picture, by Castiglione, of a Fe-
Fainily, hy Frangi^— Noah intoxi- male Turk on horseback t Fourih
cated, by Andrea Sacchi — ^the Ma- apartment.— r-The Marri|Lge of 6,
geUation, by Leonello Spada— Catherine, by Scipio Gaetano-^twe
Cleopatra* by Lanfranco ! — the Small Landscapes, by Both ; one of «
Deposition fybm the Cross, by which represents the Kepose in
Bai^occio— the Saviour between An- Bgypt, the other the Fable of Mer-
gels, by Fiamingo — Sampson, sup- cuiyand£rse. Fifth apartment,-—
posed to have been painted either Bndymion, by Guercino — Portrait
by Garoselli, or Guercino 1 — Moses, of a Lady, by Titian — Portr^iit of
by GuidoJ— the Holy Family, b^ Macchiavello,byAndreadelSart6l
Albano!-^and our Saviour, th4 — Bortraitof Donna Olimpia Mail-
Madonna, and other Saints, by dachini*, author unknown — Po.r-
Albert Durer. J^nhth, ' room.-^ hsait of a Lady, by Pablo Veronel|e
t^anity an& Modesty, by Leonardo — ^the Death of Abel, by Salvator
^ Vincitll — Gamblers cheating a Rosa I — Christ bearing his Cross,
Yoilth, by Carava^gio)}! — Coiiju. by Fr^ngipani — Jansenius, by Tl-f
jifalLoye,byAgostinoCaracci — ^the tian — Portraits of Bartolb and
Magdalene^ by Guido ! — S. James, Baldo, in the same picture, by Ra-'
by Guercino — the death of the phael M —^ Icarus and DsedaJus,
bressed Tii^ti, by Albert Durer— School of Andrea Sacchi — the De-
the Adoration of the Magi, by Garo- position firom the Cross, by Vasaii
Mb I— Titian, and hts Family, by -^a Landscape, by Both — ^Head
hiinself I— Portrait of a Lady, by of a Lady, by Titian— a Fiethy by
fitianl — MairhTdom of S. Eras- Annibate Caracci !— a Landscape,
mus, ^a Sketch) by Nicolas Pous- by Both l^Diana and Endymion;
sin 1-— the Maddalena deHe radid, by Rubens— Portrait, by Van-
liyGuidolI— &.Girolamo,byGuer- dyck— Porhrait, by Titian— Por-
ainof— S. Mstfk,. by <titto!— S. trait of a' Gentleman with a
John, by ditto I-^^-two* Shepherds of book in his hand, by Titian — For-
U) The skull rests upon a tomb bearing thi* (/) The Favourite of Innocent X, and his
wripiioii; *•!, tod;wasofArcBdia:*» ' Si«ier-in-law. ' * " * - -
nsen
tnAt of a HM3f$M Widow, bf by Luca <7iaiHlaao*--ii Laadamo%,
¥iaji|rek-~S. Girolwno, by Asoir by P««l BiiU I—the Prodigal Son,
bakCttsmepi. Siccih aparimfnt — by Guercmol — a Landscape, br
Portrait. ^ Bub«n», of his Wife— . Torregiani!-— two Small Landt
Porlwit, l&ewise Iw Rubens, of a jseapes, by Claude!— the Ma«da-
Creqtkman with gloves — Portrait, lene, by Aimibaie Camas S.
b}r Holbein, of his Wife— and Se- Agnes, by Guercinol—the Ma^
miratnis, Caraeei Sishool. Seventh donna adoring the sleeping Sar
apar^9i0n^«— Jacob's Journey,* by viour, by Guido! — Pope Paafili,
Bassano — Icarus and Da^lalus, by by Velasquez — ^the Madonna, by
Albano — ^a Preiepe, by Bassano Parmigianino -^ Marsyas teaching
- -*-Batbsheba, by Bronehuest-^ Olympus to blow the Dorian Flute,
the Holy Family, by I-<^ovico Ca- by Annibale Caraeci— a Presepe^
racci— and Grecian ' Charity, by by Parmigianino — a large and
Valeirtii), Gallery, Firet Dm* sublime Landscape, by Saivator
MQft.-rrThe Visitation by Garofolo — Rosa» called his Belisario////-^
the Madonna, by Sassoferrato I — ^a a Landscape, by Both, with figures
Landscape, by Domenichino ! — ^two representing Christ in the Wilder-
Small Oval Landscapes, by ditto f ness, attended by Angels — ^four
r— the Confessor of Rubens, ^ the Misers counting money, attributed
latter !r— the Magdalene, by Titian to Manescalco of Anvers ! — a half-
T^the Flight into Egypt, by Ajuii-t length Figure of a Faun with Pan's
bale Caraeci I!! — alargeandsplen- Pipe, School of Rembrandt — ^the
did Landscape, by Claude! I! — ^the Madonna, the Infant Jesus, and
Visitation, by Annibale Caraeci 1 1 ! Saints, by Lodovico Caraeci.
— S. John Baptist, by Valentin — Fowth division* — An Ecce Homo,
the Assumption of the blessed Vir-* bv Lodovico Caraeci — the Holy
™, by Annibale Caraeci!!! — S. Family with two Angels, by Fra
Francesco and Angels, by Annit Bartolomn),eo— the£arth,beingone
bale Caraeci! — Lot and his Dau^h- of the Four Elements, painted bv
ters, by Gherardo deUe Nottil— r Breughel! — a Landscape, witn
two Landscapes, by Both — Christ fije^res of a Hermit, &c. by Dome-
borne to the Sepulchre, by Annif nichino ! — Susanna, by Annibale
bale Caraeci!!! — the Death of Caraeci — The Air, by Breughel ! —
Tancred, by Guercino — ^the Nati<- a Lanidscape with figures on the
vity, by Annibale Caraeci ! ! ! — B, side of a river, by Domenichino ! f —
Roeeo, by Schidone — ^the AdojraT Sampson, by Guercino — Noah's
tion of the Magij by Annibale Ca- Ark, by Bassano — Fire, by Breu-
vacci ! ! ! — a large and splendid ghel ! — two Small Landscapes, by
Landscape, 1^ Claude, represent^ Both — an Angel visiting S, Peter
ing a Sacrince to the Delphic when in Prison, by Lanfranco I — a
Apollo!!!!— Sketch, by Corregmo, Small Picture of our Saviour on
of Virtue and other Figures. The the Cross, by Michael Angelo I—
second division of the Uallery con- the Garden of Eden, by Breughel I
tains Frescos on the Ceiling, by — ^Abraham's Offering of his Son,
Melani; but no easel pictures, by Titian!! — Water, being the
Third division, — A beautiful Land<» fourth Element painted, by Breu-
scape, by Claude, with Figures by ghel! — a Wedding Feast, by Te-
Filippo Lauri, representmg the niers ! ! — a Woman catching Fleas,
Repose in Egypt ! ! ! — a half-length by Gherardo delle Notti — the Mad-
Female Figure, by Murillo ! — the (mena sedente, by Caravaggio ! —
Holy Family, by Garofolo — a Head, Queen Giovanna of Arragon, by
by Rubens— a Magdalene, by Feti Leonardo da Vinci— a Copy of the
—the Slaughter of the Innocents, Aldobrandi Marriage, by Nicolas
232 ROME. [Clx*Vn.
Poussin-^Portrait of a Duke of Sarto! — the same suljjectjbyGhe-
Ferrara, by Tintoretto— Portrait of raixio delle Notti — the Madonna
an old Man with a Beard, by Titian and our Saviour, by Rubens — a
— ^the Deposition from the Cross, Pieth, by Bassano — ^two Sea-Ports,
by Padovanino— and the Holy Fa- by Fiamingo — a large Picture, by
mily and S. Catherine, by Titian. Palma Giovane — S. Francesco, by
- Palazzo-Bracciano, This spa- Lodovico Caracci — and a Magda-
cious Mansion, built by the Chigi lene, by Guido. The fifth room
Family, has recently been fitted up contains a Mosaic Pavement ad-
withpeculiartaste and magnificence mirably copied from that with ^
by its present possessor, the Duke which Sylla is supposed- to have
di Bracciano. The Quadrangle embellished the celebrated Temple
and Stoircflwc are ornamented with of Fortune at Palestrina*. The
ancient and modem Sculpture; sixth apartment (leading to the
and among the Paintings, in the baJl-room) has a Ceiling paint-
rooms usually shewn to Strangers, ed by Pozzi. In the BaU'room is
are the following. First room-^ a Mosaic Pavement, beautifully
Two Landscapes, by Claude, one copied from that which adorns the
of which is very beautiful — ^the Circular Hall of the Vatican Mu-
Holy Family, by Giovanni Bellinb . seum. Here are several pieces of
— ^the Magdalene, by Murillo — arid modem Sculpture ; pre-eminent
Christ with the Woman of Sama- among which, is the Hercules of
ria, by Pietro da Cortona. Second Canova, represented in the act of
room. — Cleopatra, by Guido ! — ^the . throwing Lichas into the sea. Here
Madonna and Infant Jesus, by Sas- likewise are some ancient Statues,
•ftoferrato ! — Painting and Sculp- and a Ceiling painted by DomenicO
ture, by Guercino — Children, by del Frati and the Cav. Landi : the
GiuUo Romano — S. Gregorio, by Oval, near the Group of Hercules
Caravaggio — S. Girolamo, by and Lichas, is by the latter. The
Guercino — a large Picture, by room communicating with this
Schidone — ^the Mairiage of S. Ca- apartment has a Ceiling paint-
therine, by Parmigianino-;-and the ed by the Cav. Camuccini ; and
Holy Family, by Giulio Romano, representing the Fable of Cupid
7%«>fl? room —Several interesting and Psyche. The Pavement is a
Portraits ; among which are two Copy from ancient mosaics : and
Heads, by Luini ; one, by-Raphael ; the room in the same line beyond
and one, by Velasquez, represent- this, contains an ancient Statue of
ing Innocent X — two full-length a Philosopher seated. Beyond
Portraits, by Vandyck — and a the ball-room, on the right, is a
beautiful miniature Pieth, by An- Cra//«r^ ornamented with an ancient
nibaJe Caracci ! ! Fourth room. Statue of a Canephora, and a Ceil-
— ^The Holy Family, by Andrea del ing finely painted by Pelagi.
' (s) This Mosaic is supposed, by Winckel- • Travels in Egypt: and thus far seems cer-
mann, to represent the arrival of Menelaus in tain, that the scene lies in the Island of Ele-
Egypt : but Kirker thinks it an Allegory ; the phantine, near Syene, and below the Cataracts
first part shewing the evils occasioned by For- of the Nile. It has been already mentioned
tune when adverse; the secorfd the sacrifices that Mosaics were used in Persia dnring the
offered to render her OTopitious; and the third time of Artaxerxes ; and thence the art of
.the solemnities used m thankinjg her for making them was probably transported to
favours bestowed. The Cardinal de Polignac Assyria, Greece, and Rome. But the Mosaic
supposes It to represent the Expedition of at Palcstrina seems, from the shape of the
Alexander to the Temple of Jnpiter-Ammon : Greek letters, (particularly the Kp^iion and
and the Abb< Barthelemy (in consequence, Sigma) in which the names of the animals re-
perhaps, of observing that several of the presented are specified, to be rather of the
figures are m the Roman military garb ; second century than older, in which case
and that above the gate of a building orna- this Mosaic must have been made long after
xnentedwith four Egyptian statues is a Ro- Sylla's time, and probably during the reign of
man eagle) supposes the rabjeci to be Adrian's Adrian. .
Ch.VII.] ROME. 233
- PaiazzO'Cohnna. This immense Flora ; together with that of a Re-
Structure stands on the site of the cumbent Female, supposed to be
Domus Comelii, On tlie Stair- Grecian sculpture,
case is a Statue represent- The Palace likewise contains a
ing a Captive, (probably taken small Column of rosso antioo,
from the Forum of Trajan ;) and called The Colonna BeUica : which
fixed in the Wall, opposite to the once stood before the Temple of
door of entrance, is a Basso-rUievo • Bellona ; and near what is suj)-
of porphyry, representing the Head posed to have been the Site of this .
of Medusa, and supplied to be a Temple, the Column in question
likeness of Nero. The ante-room was found **.
to the Gallery contiains several Palazzo- Giustinianu This £di-
Pictures ; among which are, Cal- iice stands on the site of Nero*s
.vin, byTitian — Luther, by the same Baths * ; whence several of the An-
artist--Cain and Abel, bv Andrea tiquities of its Museum were taken ;
Sacchi — Europa, by Albano — a but as the major part have been
Peasant eating, attributed to An- sold, little now remains worth no-
nibale Caracci — and a Portrait, by tice, except a Group in the Hall of
Paolo Veronese. The Colonna entrance, representing two Warriors
Gallery (with respect to size and fighting ; and, in the other Apart-
architecture, the finest apartment ments, a Grecian Statue, witn the
at Rome) measures, in length, arms elevated — a Group called
two hundred and nine Paris feet ; Conjugal Love — a Bust of Scipio
and, in breadth, thirty-five : at —a Statue, called Paris — ditto, of
each extremity is a Vestibule, se- a Goat — a Group representing
parated from the rest of the Galleiy Hercules and Cerberus — ^and the
by. Columns and Pilasters of giallo Statue of a sleeping Female,
antico. . The Ceiling is well paint- Chiesa di S» Luigi di Francia.
ed ; and represents the sanguinary The second Chapel on the right of
Battle of Lepanto, fought in the the Principal Entrance to this
GulfofPatras; and among the Pic- Church contains Frescos, by Do-
tures and Statues which embellish menichino ; which represent the
this apartment are the following. Alms-d£eds,Death, and Apotheosis
A Landscape, by Nicolas Poussin of. S. Cecilia; with other, circum-
— ditto, by Vander-Werf — Land- stances relative to her, and her
scapes, by Gasparo Poussin, Ori- Husband, S. Valerian,
zonte, Paul Bnll, Breughel, Berg- Palazzo - Massimi — celebrated
ham,^. — ^theMadonna,theSaviour, for containing the Statue of a
and S.John, by Romanelli — S.Peter Discobolus, in white marble,
with the An^l, byLanfranco — ^the copied from that, in bronze, by
Magdalene m glor^r, by Annibale Myron; and one of the finest
Caracci— S. S&astiano, by Guer- pieces of sculpture in Rome ! I !
cino — S. John in the Desert, by It was found on the Esquiline
Salvador Rosa — C^jsar sacrificing. Hill. On the back-front of the
by Carlo Maratta— and a Sketdi Palazzo-Massimi are Frescos, by
by Titian, of himself and his Fa- Caravaggio I
mih^ at their devotions. Statues PcUazzo-Braschi, This magni-
of Venus, Germanicus, Trajan, and ficoit Structure, built after the
(h) When Rome declared war against a der Severus: thej extended to the Piasxa
foreign enemy, an arrow was shot from the top Rondinini; near which spot, in a Public
of the Colaron which stood before theTempte House, contiguous to the Church of the Mad-
j^-nii __j T! i.1 — /-TiL T ^ *L_A j_, — — ^ i?ii._!_ • — -">- be traced.
ornament"
statues.
•84 BOICE. [Ch, Vn.
designs oi tiM Oftr. Moreili, Is iaiposiiig ; <fae ocMHitioa dsUeate ;
ftdcmed by a Stakcase pajrticularly the preservation of tiba marble (mbf-
beautiful, both with reupect to itls ^t; in short, this is, aceording
CDnstruction and its decorations ; to the <^inion of Maxman, the
among the latter of which are sixr finest of all the existing statues of
teen Columns of red oriental gra<> Antinous^.
nite ; Pilasters of the same ; and PcdazasO'FUmese. This immense 9^-
four antique Statues, namely, Palace, eommenced by Sangallo, ^
Oommodus, Cones, Achilles, and and finished by Michael Angelo
Pallas, /n the apartmenU up- and Giaoomo della Porta, is
stairs are the following Pictures, a peculiarly fine piece of arehi>-
The Madonna and our Saviour, by tccture^ B^wre it stand two
Bassoferrato-— the same subject, bj magnificent oval Basins of Egyp^
Guido — ^the Madonna, our Savi- tian granite, (above seventeen
our, and Saints, by Garofolo — two feet in lengtti, and in depth bea>
fine PcMrtraits, by Vandyck — ^Dali«- tween four and five,) which were
la and SampsoA, by Caravaggio found in Caraealla*s Baths; and
-r-tbe Miracle of the loaves and in^A^QtMu/ran^/d is theSarcopha*
fishes, by Garofolo t — the Woman gus of Ccecilia Metella, made of
detected m Adultery, by Titian \-^ Parian marble, and found in her .
the Madonna and Angels, by Mur Monument. The Gallery above
nUo I ! — ^the Marriage of S. Cathe^ etaire is ornamented with some of
rine, by Fra Bartolomraeo — the the most admired Frescos in Rome,
Marriage of Cana in Galilee, l^ executed by Annibale Caraeci and
Garofolo ! — S. Sebastiano, 1^ Fia-P his scholars. The c^tre pitce on
siingo — Copy, bv one of the Ca^ the Ceiling represents the Triumph
racci School, or a Holy Family of Baccims and Ariadne t Other
?ainted by Raplui^-^Luoretia, by paintings represent Paris reeeiv-
'aolo Veronese — and the Cruoi«- mg the golden Apple from Mer-»
fixion, by Tintoretto. cury — Pan offering ^oat-skins to
An unjinieked apartment of this Diana — Galatea with Tritons,
Palace contains a celebrated Cot Nymphs, and Loves^^Jupiter and
lossal Statue of Antinous, in the Juno^-Apollo flaying Marsyas —
character of Osiris, the Egyptian Boreas oarrying off Orythia-**-
Bacchus : it was found in the Villa Diana and £ndymion — ^Euryttice
of Antoninus Pius, at Palestrina, recalled to the Shades Below—
during tiie Pontificate of Pius VI ; Europa on the Bull — Aurora and
is of beautiful Greek marble, and Cephalus in a chariot. Titan
about eleven English feet in height asleep, and Cupid flying with a
The left hand once held a thyrsus of basket of roses — ^Venus and An-
bronze; and close to the left leg ehises-^-Heroules and lole-r^Cu-
stands the mystic Basket of Bac- pid binding a Satyr— Salmads and
ohus. The brouze deapeary, which Hermaphroditus — Syrinx turned
eriginally covered pui; of this into reeds by Pan — lieander, con-
figure, is, Uke the tl^rsus, lost: duoted by Cumd, swimming to
the face and hair precisely resent visit Hero — rerseus and An-
ble the Aita-rilievo of Antinous in dromeda — Pombat between Per*
the Villa- Albani ; the character is sens ai)d Phineas — Polyphemus
beautiful ; the position grand and playing on the Syringa, to charm
(A) A mutilated Statue, commonlv called (0 Most of the materials for bnildisf tbe
Fasquitt, which • rests against one of the ex- Famese Palace were taken from the Co-
tenor Walls of the Braschi-palace, is supposed losseum and the Theatre of Mareellns : indeed,
(jadring by what remains) to have been on- the Colosseum, during many years, seems
R'aally a splendid work, representing Mene- to have been considered merely as a stom
us with the dead body of Patroclus. quarry.
GalfftparrrP^tnP^WWf |iui^ the III, by T)ti«a--dittQ, of Curdiiia}
^agm^t of ^ rock at Aci»---JuT Spad^, \^y Guido — a Bnow Pieci^,
piter f^;i4 Gaayis^ede — and Hya? attributed to Teniers — the Heads
flnthuc^ arid ApoUo. Aootheir of two Qoys, attributed to Ocmt-
• ^^xkfp.enU isalled J( QnlnnetiQ, reggio I ! — The Magdalene, by
pontai9$ ^e Frescos, by Anni- Guercino — a &ma& Musician,
bale C^acpi ; ^Fiamely, |l|9reule9 t^y C^avaggio-— and a Imrge Pic-
suppprting t)ie celestiid Glpbe^ ture representing the Flight of
tjlyss^s aeliverii^g his Compani- Helen, by Guido.
ens from Circe— the same Hero Paltu^iso-Mattei, This Palace
passipg the Islands of the Sireiis stands oq the Site of the Circus
tr-Anapius ai^d Amphinomus savr Flaminius. The Quadrangle ext
ing their Parents frppi Death, dur- hibits an ancient and valuaU^
ink an Eruption of ^tna — Perseus BoMo-rilievQ of green basalt, re-
tieheading Medusa — and Hercules presenting an Egyptian sacritcial
Wrestling with the Nemaec^n Lipn. procession I and on the Stairs ans
The Ornaments in CkiarQ-sf^rOy two antique Sei^ts of marble, and
«vhich divide these paintings, are two ^ne Bcusi-riiievi. The Cor^
ht^utifully executed* fiahr above is likewise ornamented
^ PaiazaiQ'Spiuia. The greui^ with Bassi-rihevi ; and in the
jy'-fi^T of this f*di{ic^ contains two rooms usually shewn to Stran^^ers
^ f Qoips iUled lyith Sculpture. In are the following Painting. Fish,
the Jhr^t, i^ a Copy of the head Poultry, and Butchers' Meat, four
of LaoQOQTi, and a Statue of Antis* Pictures, all by Ps^seri — Charles I,
^estes seated I! In thfi second, and Charles II, of £ngland, by
are eight Bam-riUevi foupd Vandyck — two Landscapes, attn-r
in the Temple of Bacchus 1 1 an4 buted to Passeri— j|. Holy Family,
a Colossal gtatue of a Warrior of the Caracci School— Abraham's
holding a Globe, supposed (though Saprifice, by Guido — ^the Nativity,
without sufficient authority) to re- by Pietro da Cortona ; and the
present Pompey, and to be the Cavalcade of Clement VI XI, and
Bguve at whose base C^sar fell I ! the Entry of Charles V into
This Statue, according to report, Bologna, by Tempesta. The Gal*
was found in a Vault, under the Uru contains a Bust of Cicero ;
Strada de' Leutarir near the Piaz;?^ and its Ceiling is ftneW painted
di Pasquino. Amon^ the Picture^ by Pietr<]| da Cortona, Paul BrUl,
up'Simr^ the IdUowing are some &c.
of themoatstiiking. FirHroom — Pak^szQ'CQstagMti. Here are
David with llie Head pf Goli^h, six Ceilings finely painted in
hyGueroino; and Roman Chf^rity, fresco; the first, by Albano, re-
^y CaiAvaggio. Second room — presents Hercules wounding the
Judith with the Head of Holo- Centaur—The second, by Domer
^smes, by Giiido — Lucretia, by nichino, represents Apollo in his
ditto! — the head of Seneoa, by Oar; Time brining Truth to
Salvator liosa-r-a Landscape, by light ; and Bpys with lions' skins,
Teni^s — Jacob at the Well, by Hercules's club, &c. I ! — ^The third,
h^icolas Poussin—and Time unt by Guercino, represents Rinaldo
yeihng Truth« by Albano. Third and Armida ! — ^The fourth, by the
ffoom — a Mother teaching her Cav. d'Arpino, represents Juno
Child to wosii, by Oaravaggio ! I — nursing Hercutes. This room like-
the Saviour before Pilate, by Ghe- wise contains Portraits of a Duke
rardo deUe Notti— Beatrice Cenci, mA Duchess of Ferrara, by Titian ;
by Paolo Veronese — and Dido on and an interesting Picture of a
the fui^eral Pile, by Guercina Gipsy, by Caravaggio— The fifth
Skmrik r9p«— "PorbraH of Pavd Cefling, by Lanfranco, represents
236 ROME. tCh.VIL
Justice embracing . Peace — and, — Cupid mounted on an Ea^le^
the sixth, by Romanelli, repre- by Domenichino ! — a Holy Family,
sents Anon thrown into the sea, by Fra Bartolommeo ! — S.John, by
and preserved by a Dolphin. Correggiol—rthree Frescos, sketch-
PalazzO'Falconieri. The Pic- ed by Michael Angelo, and finished
tures here, collected by Cardinal by Seb'astiano del Piombb — S.
Fesche, are very numerous, and John preaching, by Relhbrandt I— ^
several of them very fine ; those four Heads, by ditto, one being
of the Flemish School especially, his own likeness — a' Landscape
The first floor contains, the Visi- with Cattle, by Cuyp I-^another,
tation, by DanieUo da Volterra — with Fishermen, by ditto! — a
Christ supping with the Pilgrims, Landscape, by Paul Potter — a
by Paolo Veronese, who has in- Philosopher, by Gerard DOwI — a
troduced portraits of his own Battle, by Wouvermans 1 — the
family into the picture — ^the Last Caravan, by Adrian Vanderwelde I
Judgment, by Tintoretto — the — ^a Landscape, by Paul Potter ! —
Assumption, by Guido! — a Ma- the Saviour m Prison, by Tenier*!
donna and Child, by Andrea di — a Landscape, by Isaac Van
Salerno — a fine Bassano — the Ostade I — ^the inside of a Cottage,
Daughter of Herodias with the or Stable, by Teniers ! — Peter
Head of S. John, (the latter finely denying the Saviour, by Gherardo
executed,) by Guercino — ^the Holy delle Notti — the Magdalene, by
Sepulchre, by Albanol — ^the Ma- Vandyck! — insides of Churches,
donna, the Saviour and S. John, by Peter Neff — an Ecce Homo,
by Murillo I — Peace and Justice, by Rembrandt — ^the Ascension, by
author doubtful — a fine Portrait, Vandyck, &c. &c. The second
by Titian — S. Carlo Borromeo, floor has not lately been shewn to
by Domenichino — Semiramis, at Foreigners; but contained, when
her toilet, receiving intelligence last exhibited to public view, a
of a revolt, by Mengs — two Por- Picture of Diana and other Fi-
traits, by Paris Bordone — a Land- gures, by Le Sueur — Christ,.Mary,
scape, Dy Salvator Rosa -^ ditto, and Martha, by the same mas-
attributed to Titian— ditto, attri- ter — the following Pictures, by
buted to Annibale Caracci— -ditto, Nicolas Poussin ; the Holy Fa-
by Gaspdro Poussin — ^the Saviour mily with Angds — Human Life,
borne by Angels after the Cruci- represented by the four Seasons I
fixion, by Correggio! — ^two Chil- — ^the Deluge! — and a Landscape,
dren, by ditto! — a Holy Family, called Les Chartreuxt — Land-
by ditto ! — ^a Madonna and Child, scapes, by Claude, &c. &c. ™
by Annibale Caracci — S. John, by Palcuszo -Famesincu The En- \^
Leonardo da Vinci — a Picture in trance Hall of this Edifice is finely
the style of Murillo, author un- painted in Fresco, by Raphael and
known — a Picture, painted by nis Scholars, who have represented
Raphael when he was only eigh- the History of Psyche. On the
teen, and before he quitted the Ceiling are the Council and Ban-
School of Perugino— and another, quet of the Gods — in one of the
painted afterwards, when he was Aisles are the Graces ; and she,
five-and-twenty — ^the Holy Sepul- whose back only is seen, was
chre, by Annibale Caracci I — executed entirely by Raphael. In
Sketch, by Correggio — a Holy an adjoining Room it his Galatea,
Family, by Andrea del Sarto — a coloured by himself, together with
Madonna and Child, by Schidone ! a fine Colossal Head (in one of
(fn) In order io 9ee Cardinal Fesche's pic- for permission; and likewise to mention the
it i« requisite to apply to his Secretary names of the persons who wish to be^^itted.
/
Ch.VII.] ROME. - 237
the LvHlettesJ sketched by Michael Vestal, by ' Carlo Maratta -^ the
Angeio". • On /the Ceiling of this Holy Family, by ditto— Raphael's
room are Diana in her Car — and Fbmctrina, attributed to Giulio
the Fable of Medusa — together Romano — S. Girolamo, attributed
with several oth^ Ornaments, by to Titian— Paul III, attributed to
Daniello da Yolterra, Sebastiano Raphael — ^the Magdalene, by Ba^
del Piombo, and Balthazar Pe- roccio — S- John, by Guef cino — ^the
riizzi. The Hall above-stairs is- Holy Family, by Bassane -r- the
ornamented with a Painting* of Crucifixion of S. Peter, by Guido!
Vulcan's Forge, by Peruzzi ; and a — a Wild-beast Hunt, by Rubens ! !
Frieze, executed by the Scholars — the Decapitation of S. John,
of Raphaels by GuidoII! — S. Peter and S.
Palazzo- Coreim, This noble. Agata, by Lanfiranco — Head of
Pialace, once the residence of Cardinal Barberini, by Domeni-
Christina of Sweden, contains chino — a Hare, by Albert Durer! I
a magnificent double Staircase, — and a small statue of Christ,
which leads to a suite of Apart- by Michael Angelo I Fifth room
ments enriched with some good — The Madonna, by Carlo Ma-
Seulpture and several fine Pictures, ratta — an Ecce Homo, by. Carlo
First room — ^A Sarcophagus, found Dolci ! — ^the same subject, by Guido
at Antium ! — an ancient Mosaic — — ^two Landscapes, by the master
aHead, copied fi-om Guido, in mo- of Claude Lorrain — the Saviour
dem Mosaic — a Bust, in nero an- and the Woman of Samaria, l^
tico. Second room — ^The Marriage Guercino — and the Nativity, by
of S. Catherine, by Carlo Maratta Gherardo delle Notti. Sixth room
— Landscapes, by Orizbnte, &c. —Portrait of a Lady, by Leonardo .
Thirdroom — A Head, by Rubens ! da Vinci— the Sons of Charles V,
— an Ecce Homo, by Guercino ! ! I by Titian — Cardinal Castiglione,
— Christ before Pilate, by Van- by Raphael!— a Cardinal, by Do-
dvck !~S. Peter, by Caravaggio — menichino— and a Doge of Venice,
tne H9ly Family, by Baroccio — ^the by Tintoretto. Seventh room—
Madonna and Infant Saviour, by The Madonna and Infant Jesus,
Caravaggio ! ! I — the same subject, by Muriilo ! 1 1— a Small Picture of
by Vandyck! — ^two Small Land- Christ, &c., by Corre^io— a Large
scapes, by Salvator Rosa — two Landscape, by Gasparo Poussin !! !
Heads, supposed to represent Lu- — two Landscapes, by Orizonte —
ther and his Wife, by Holbein — ^the Christ bearing his Cross, by Ga-
HolyFamily,byFraBartolommeo!! rof61o— the Martyrdom of S. Bar-
— the same subject, by Garofolo — tolommeo, by Lodovico Caracci !—
Heathen Divinities, by Albano I — a Portrait, by Domenichino —
Portrait of Julius II, attributed Christ disputing with the Doctors,
to Raphael — Portrait of Philip II, by Luca Giordano — the Woman
by Titian — and an ancient Consular detected in Adultery, by Titian !—
Chair of Parian marble, embellish- and S. Sebastiano, by Rubens,
edwith bassi-rilievi ; and found on. Eighth room^A Pieth, by Lodo-
or near, the site of the Basilica of vico Caracci ! — S. Jolin Baptist,
S. Giovanni in Laterano. Fourth by Caravaggio— two Oval Pictures,
room — The Madonna and our Sa- by Albano— Judith with the Head
viour, by Andrea del Sai-to — a of Holofemes, by Gherardo delle
(«) Wc are told that Michael Ang^elo, so poignantlj, that he became disgusted with
ihtBkmg the figures in this room too dimtnu- his work, and left it nnfinished.
live for the sitnations in which they are (oj Unless the Costode be apprised before-
placed, drew the above-named Head, in order hand, it is not always possible to gain admit-
to make Raphael sensible of his error: and tftnce to the Falatzo-Faraesina.
Haphael is supposed to have felt the criticism
KDMR [CH, Vlt
N6tti!-^Lcrve8le€ping,bfGiiido— the Etiipe^dr Napol^on^ is ilso
SeneciamtheBath, byCfflcraVaggio oalled *«Accadeiliia di S, Ltica";
—Landscapes, byGa^aroPcnissiil sind the Students belonging to tMS
—Peter denying Christ, byValen- useful establishment receive, grtt-
tin — a Sketch for a Frieze, by tuitouslyj theoretical and practied
Polidoro da Caravaggio! — and lessons on the Art of Drawifi^.
Susanna, by Domeniehinot Ninth This Academy is likewise prbvided
room — Two Colossal Heads, by with able Masters, who instHi^ft
Lodovico Caraeci — four Heads, theif Pupils in Sculpture, Paint-
by Parmigianino— a large Picture^ ing. Architecture, in all itsf
by Titian, representing Venus, &c. branches, Geotnetry^ Perspective*
— Sheep, &c., by Teniers I — the and Optics, Anatomy, Hi^torjTy
Holy Family, by Nicdlas Poussin Mythology, and Costumes.
— Prometheus, by SfiQvator Rosa Rome contains several Hospi-
—the Pla^e at Milan, by Mura- tals : that of S. S|]iirito is a hatid-
tori — a Landscape, by Nicolas some Edifice; ana receives FoUrid-*
Poussin I— and two Oval Pictures lings and Side Persons of all descrip^
of Angels, by Sebastian© del tions : but the want of deanliries*
Piombo. in this Hospital renders it a dan-
Actademia di S, Luca. This gerous place to visit. The Hbs-
Academy, and the adjoining Church pital of S. Michele, also, is a spa^
of Saints Luca and Martina, stand cious Building ; and receives thtf
near the Forum of Augustus ; and Sick, the Aged, and the Orphan-
the latter is supposed to have been Poor ; the last of whom . are in-
erected on the foundations of the stnicted in the Arts of Painting,
Secretarium Senatus, The Aca- and of weaving Tapestry,
demy contains the Skull of Ra- The Mosaic Manufacture, undei^
phael — a Celebrated Picture, by the direction of the Cav. Camuc?-
that Artist, of S. Luke painting cini, at the Yatiean^ is well woHlr
the Portraits of the Madonna and notice ; as are the Siudii of so
our Saviour, and Raphael himself many distinguished Artists, Ihat
looking on ^ ! — a Picture of Christ it would exceed the limits of
^ith the Pharisee^ by Titian!— this Work to partifeularize them'
two Landscapes, by Salvator Rosa ^1.
—ditto, by Gasparo Poussin — two The pre-eminent Sculptor of the
Heads, by Angelica, one being her present moment (1827) is the Cav.
own Portrait — Models, by Michael Thorwaldsen ; Who excels in everjr
Angelo, of some of his Figures in branch of his sublime Art ; and
the Cappella de' Principi at Flo- whose chisel produces BcaH-rilievi
rence; and several other interest- which, like the Frescos of Ra-
ing pieces of Sculpture and Paint- phdel, may be called inimitable,
ing. The Church of Saints Luca Other distinguished (Sculptors are
and Martina contains a Recum- — Antonio and Alessandro D'Este
bent Statue of the latter Saint — ^FinelU — Pozzi — Gibson — Ca-
under the High-altar, by Niccok> puti^ celebrated for ^orkiSi in bfonze
Menghino ; and here likewise is a — Hopfgarten and Jqllage, like^
Subterranean Chapel, made by wise celebrated for works iti brotiztf
Pietro da Cortona at his own ex- — and Gioacchiiio and Pietro Bel-
pense. li, distinguished fcft the elegatictf
The Roman Accademia delle of their works in silver.
belle Arti, founded in the time of The most eminent Histoiieal^
0>) This picture hM been to mtteh restored, tlmt very little now reiasias Of tire origimtl
painting, by Rspktiel.
OB.Ynj ROMit • iS9
Faints isfhe Car. Caninecini^-^ Yke^Constil) are tiso r^eetabk
and, am<jfn^ others ^ho exeA Bankers; and these Gientlemcn
in this branch of their art are^ forward Works of Art to Great-
Miitardi — Vicar — and Overbek. Britain.
Among the most distinguished Rome contains six Theatres ; all
Landscape Painters are — ^Voogd-— of which are open during Cami^
Werstoppen — Teerhnk — Ghauviri Ta!, and some at other seasons.
-^Catel — and Oaracciolo, a sue- The Carnival usualh* begins
cessful imitatot of Claude. — Kei- eight days previous to Ash Wed-
serman is pre-eminent as a Land- nesday ; and finishes with Shrove-
scape Painter in Aquarella. Sig- tide. During this period of ge-
nora Bianca Boni — and Signora neral festivity, the Corso» a fine
Teresa Fioroni, are good Miniar street extending from the Porto
ture Painters'. del Popolo to the foot of the
Met2 draws m a beantifiil Capitol, is decorated with tapes-
style ; and fats Compositions are try and silk hangings from every
Seeuliarly elegant and elassicf^. ' window and balcony * : enhvened
[e has published fine Engravings With military bands of music, and
of the Last Judgment, and other crowded with Masqueraders, m
Frescos in the Vatican. Pinelli's carriages and on foot, fit>m two
Drawings and Etchings, though in the afternoon till sunset ; dur-
in a di^rent style^ are equally ex- ing the latter part of which time
eellent. horse-races, like those at Florence*
Girometti, as an Ineisore, is pre- are exhibited. At night the Tea^
eminent^ both for Camei and Intii- tro Aliberti, a large and handsome
rfi of pietra dura — and Giovanni edi^ce, is open for mask-balls :
Dies, and Pestrini, are pre-emi- and though, during the three last
nent for Camei of Cofichfglia* days of Carnival, the crowd of
Paoletti excels in the art of Masks on the Corso, and in other
makii^ Pastes, and Sulphurs— parts of the City, is great beyond
and some of the best specimens of conception, and though the num-
Soa^la, and Paintings alt En* bet of persons at the mask-balls
octtisto, may be found in the Studio often exceeds five thousand, not a
of Stefano Angelini. single word is spoken that ean
Among the most eminent Mo^ hurt the most dehcate ear, nor a
satcisti are, Giuseppe Mattia, and single thing done that can tend to
Gioacehino Barberi. disturb public tranquillity.
Rome is usually frequented dur- Another Festival; little known
ing winter by several English lAe- to Strangers, but well worth ob-
dieal men ; among whom is Dr. servation, from being a remnant
Jenks^ an experienced and skilfol of the ancient Saiwtnalia, is that
Pl^sician, now resident there. celebrated on Sundays and Thnrs-
Messrs. Tai-lonia and Co. the days, during the month of Octo-
principal Bankers in this City, are ber, on the Monte - Testaccio.
highly respectable; and likewise This hill contains the Public Wine-
particularly obliging and useful to Vaults of the City, and from being
the British Nation. composed of large fragments of
Messrs. Freeborn and Smith pottery, between which the air
(the latter ofwhbm is the British constantly penetrates, is peculi-
iq) The Cav. Camucc'mi has, at his Priiiate with their places of abode, has been lately
S&Met « collection of Pictures, by the ifcost published.
distinguished masters ; and he allows these («) When Triumphs, and other pnMic Pro-
Ficttires to be 8ei»n, by the P«blic, every Sua- cessions took place in ancient Rome, th»
dtty morning, from ten o'clock till two. streets were decorated, M at this, day, witlr
(r) A List of tbe Artists ferident tit Rome, yeilr or hftnt^iitgs.
240 • ROME. [Ch.VII.
arly fitted for its present use; as partictdarlv fine. In the Church
an invariable and surprising cool- of Gres{!l» likewise, there frequently
ness is preserved beneath its sur- is fine music during Lent,
face. On this Hill, during the The Ceremonies of the Holy
days already mentioned, tables are Week commence on Palm Sunday,
spread with refreshments ; and in the Cappella-Sistina, at the
hither, on these days, flock the Vatican, where the Pope officiates,
whole population of Rome and and blesses the Palms ; afterwhich,
its environs, to drink wine fresh t}ie Pa««ton is beautifully chanted,
drawn from the vaults beneath In order to see . this Function,
their feet. It is impossible to which represents the. entry of our
conceive a more enlivening Pic- Saviour mto . Jerusalem, it is ne-'
ture than the summit of Monte- cessary for Foreigners to go at
Testaccio exhibits on this occa- nine in the morning *.
sion. Groups of peasants, ar- On Wednesday, in the Holy
rayed in their gayest costume, Week, at four in the afternoon,
are seen dancing the Saltarello; the TenehrcB^ and the Miserere
others are seated in jovial parties are sung by the Pope*s Choir in
round the tables; and others the CappeUa-Sistina^, and like-
mingle with the upper ranks of wise in S. Peter's.
Romans ; who leave their car- On Holy Thursdays Foreigners
riages at th& foot of the Hill, and should be in the Cappella-Sis-'
stroll about to enjoy this festive tina by half-past eight in the
scene. Bodies of cavalry and in- morning, to see the Ceremony of
fantry parade to and. fro, to pre- carrying the Host to the Cappella-
serve order ; while the Pyramid of Paolina ; the Illumination of that
Caius Cestius, and the adjoining Chapel, and the representation of
Tombs of the Protestants, by the Holy Sepulchre. They should
forming a strong contrast to these then endeavour to obtam front
Satm-nalian rites, add interest to seats in the Loggia, near the
the picture *. Court leading to the Museo-Chia-
During Lent the principal ramonti ; but if unable to accOm-
amusements are Church ceremo- plish this, they should station
nies ; the Academy of the Area- themselves near the steps lead-
dians ; the Academy Tiberina ; ing to S. Peter's, in the covered
the music, (which begins about Gallery not exposed to the sun,
three o'clock every afternoon, and in order to see the Benediction ;
is especially good on Fridays,) at which takes place about noon,
S. Peter's; and Serletti's Con- and is a peculiarly fine siglit*!
cert, which consists of a piano- After the Benediction, the Pope
£brte and about twenty smgers, washes the feet of thu*teen Pil-
who manage so as to give their grims ; and then waits upon them
voices the effect of a full band of while they dine. To see both
instrumental music. They chiefly these Ceremonies is. attended with
perform the Marcello Psalms ; so so much difficulty, that Foreigners
called from a noble Venetian who would do well to relinquish the
composed this music, which is former, and witness the latter;
(Q Pinelll constantly attends -the Festival officiates. Ladies are directed to appear in
at Monte-Testaccio, to study subjects for his Veils.
characteristic pencil; and late in the spring ft>) TheLaraentations of Jeremiah,
parties frequently go to dine here, taking a (w) Allegri's Miterere is that usually sunir
cold dinner with them. in the Cappelln-Sistina.
(tt) It is not deemed proper, during^ the (*) On quittinr tlie Cappella-Sistina, to
Holy Week, to appear in public without obtain front seats in the Loggia, the best w&t
wearing moaning ; and wherever the Pope i« to descend the first Staircase qh the left.
ch;vnj ROMfi. ' S4i
which is generally considered the o'clock, Jews and Turks i^ceive
most interesting of the two : and Baptism in the Church of S. Gio-
in order to accomplish this, they vanni in Laterano; where, during
should, immediately after the Be- the morning, there usually is fine
nediction, ascend the Stairs oppo- vocal music ; and about nine
site to those leading to the Museo o*clock the Resurrection Service is
Chiaramonti ; and then turn into performed in the Cappella-Sistina,
the Losrgia on the left ; which leads by the Pope, Cardinals, &c. *
to the Sala Clementino, or Dinner- On Easter Day, before nine in
hall of the Pilgrims. But it is the morning. Foreigners should be
necessary to wait in the Loggia at S. Peter's, in order to procure
till the doors of the Sala Clemen- good places for seeing the Pope
tino are opened ; which is not till enter the Church in state : and
after the Ceremony of washing the after having witnessed this splen-
feet has taken place: and some- did procession, and the Elevation
times the crowd in the Loggia is of tne Host, they should once
very unpleasant Persons who more place themselves either in
wish to see both Ceremonies, the Loggia near the Court leading
should lose no time in going, im- to the Museo Chiaramonti, or
mediately after the Benediction, to opposite to the Loggia, in one of
the Apartment adjoining the Sala the Arches of the covered Gtdleiy
Regia, where the Pilgrims* feet below ; to see the second Benedict
are usually washed ^ At four tion, and obtain a good view of
in the afternoon the Tenebm and the Piazza di S. Pietro, which, on
Miserere are a^ain sune: by the Easter-day, seldom contains less
Pope's Choir m the Cappella- than an hundred and fifty thou-
Sistina; after which, the mside sand persons, soldiers inclusive,
of S. Peter's is illuminated by an Between twelve and one o'clock
immense Cross, thdckly studded the Pope returns in state from the
with brilliant lamps, and sus- interior of S. Peter's ; and imme-
pended firom the centre of the diately ascends to the Loggia on
cupola*. the outside of the Church ; where
On Good Friday, at ten in the he no sooner appears than all the
morning, Forei^ers should go to troops kneel ; and, when he has
the Cappella-Sistina, in order to pronounced the blessing, the drums
see the Host taken by the Pope beat, the cannon of S. Angelo fire,
from the Cappella- Paolina. At and the bells ring in every direc-
four in the afternoon the Tenebra tion ; while the superb costume
and Miserere are again repeated of the Pontifical Court, the pic-
in the Cappella-Sistina ; the illu- turesque dresses of the peasantry,
minated Cross is again displayed and the splendid equipages of the
in S. Peter's ; and about half-past Cardinals, foreign Princes, &c. ;
seven, in the evening of this day, render this scene equally magni-
there is a particularly good Area- ficent and impressive *. About
dia. half an hour after sunset com* '
On Saturday morning, at eight mences the first illumination of the
{]/) When the Sovereim resides on Monte- (ft) When the Sovereign resides in th^
Cavallo, the Palms are blessed in the great Pontifical Palace at Monte-Cayallo« this ser*
Chapel of the Pontifical Palace there : and, vice is iierformed there,
daring \\ye Pontificate of Pins VII, the Pil- (6) Persons who wish to have a partica-
grims" feet were washed in an Apartment larly fine view of the Pontifical Conrt on
oontignous to the Sala Clementino, in the Easter-day, should stand near the foot of the
Vatican. Scala Regia, or great staircase of the Vati-
(g') This illumination, particularly admired can, about half-past nine in the morning, and
by lovers of the art of painting, has not taken see the Pope and his Attendants descend th*
place since the death of Pius VII. stairs on their way to S, Peter's.
R
ut
ROMK
[Ch. VII;
outftide of S. Peter^s ; which is brilliantly amidst the secnmig eott*
effected by means of four thousand flairration ! «
four hundred lanterns, lighted by These Fireworks, and th^ IUu«
men suspended on the outside of minafion of the Church» are re*
the edifice by ropes, and drawn up peated on S. Peter's day *.
and down by persons stationed On Ascension-day the Pop|a
within : but the service is so dan- usually tfiiciates at S. Giovanni,
gerous that these lamp-lighters in Laterano ; and gives the Bene-
receive the sacrament before they diction from the great Loggia on
begin their labour. The lamps the outside of that Church: hi
which compose this first illumina- likewise officiates on the Festival
tion cast a light somewhat resem* ot Corpus Domini, when there is
bling that of the moon: but, at a magnificent Procession in ih€
seven o'clock, literally in one mo- Piazzo di S. Pietro, together with
ment, the whole scene changes, line Music, (the latter, being re«
and presents the most brilliant peated for several days) in & Fe^
spectacle imaginable ; as every ter's. On the first Sunday in Ad«
part of the Church, to the very vent he usually cfiiciates in the
summit of the cross on the cupola, Cappella-Sistina ; on Christmas*
appears one blaze of fire. The day at S*. Maria Maggiore, whi^
materials which compose this se- ther he goes in state* ; on tha
cond Illumination are pitch, wood- eighteenth of January, at S. Pe«
shavings, and seven hundred and ter's, whither, likewise, he goes in
eighty-four flambeaux, so won- state (that being the annivarsarjT
derfully managed that the effect is of the day when S. Peter's Chair
perfection. About eight o'clock was placed in the church)'; on
commence the Fireworks of the the second of February, in ihi
Castle of S. Angelo. This mag- Cappella-Sistina, to bless the Can^
nificent sight begins with an ex- dies, which is a splendid Cere*
plosion, called the Girandola, pro- mony ; and again on Ash-Wed*
duced by four thousand five hun- nesday in the Cappella-Sistina, to
dred rockets, so arranged as to re- throw cinders on the heads of tfat
present an eruption of Vesuvius* Cardinals, &c. «
A variety of beautiful changes The magnificence displayed at
then take place ; and the whole Rome in Church-ceremonies, uid
' closes with a second Girandofa, indeed on every public occasion,
appearing to convert the very Ti- is unparalleled : but dming the
ber into flames; and throwing winter and spring of 1819, it could^
reflected light upon the majestic not be witnessra without aslCN*'
dome of S. Peter's, which shines nishment. The first event which
(c) Persons desiroufi of seeing both the lUur
mination and the Vireworks to advantage,
should go in an open carriage to the Piazia
di 8. Pieiro half an hour after iunset; re*
maining in the Piazza till the second Illumi-
nation of the Church has taken place ;. and
then driving qufrhly to their station for seeing
the Firovdrks ; passing over the Poute Sisto,
instead of the Ponte S. Angelo.
The best Station for seeing the Fireworks
is the loggia uf the Palazzo-Altnvite, in the
Piazza di S. Angelo, No. 15 ; and the front-
places in this loggia are usually let at a
pcudo each.
(d) If the weather be fine, and the moon in
"ot about its second quarter. Travellers, after
having seen the Fireworks, should drive to
the Colosseo, and contemplate that edifice I)/
moonlight.
(e) 'ihere is aa intcreatiDg FnlietioB, oa
Christmas-day, at the Church of :fa. Mari^
Maggtore. from four in the morning till seven:
person.*!, however, who gn at half-i»ast five, or
even an hour later, hee the mobt intereMing
part of this Function ; which consists of |i
Procession, with the Cradle, &c.
(/) On the eighteenth of Januarv, at three
in the afternoon, there is beautiful Mosic i&
S. Peter's.
(g) ^hen the Sovereign resides in the
Pontifical Palace, at Monte-Caval]o» the
Functions of Candlemas Pay and AshoWe^^*
nesday take place there.
Ch. VII.J ROMIJ. 949
called forth this spirit of mag* particularly aplendid. The two
nificence was the death of the museums of sculpture and paint-r
exiled Queen of Spain ; whose fu- ing, and the Senator's palacet
neral is said to nave cost thirty which fronts the steps leading te
thousand scudi. the Capitol, were aU united by
The scenes which took place, in temporary galleries, and their fa->
consequence of the Emperor of 9ades completely covered with fire*
Austria's visit to Rome, were of a works^ so contrived that the Em-
very, different description. No peror let them off in due succes-t
sooner was it known that he in- sion, merely by lighting the touch^
tended to honour the ancient Mis* paper of one rocket. The interior
tress of the world with his pre* of the three united buildings wa«
sence, than those hin^s of pa« hung with white silk spotted witl)
pal government, the Cardinals ^ silver stars, like the drapay used
worked incessantly to prepare for by the Greeks in very aneien^
his reception ; insomuch that every tunes ^ ; the ceilings were adome4
weed was removed from the streets with paintings, and the floors co*
and squares, every museum put vered with green cloth; while
into the nicest order, and almost some of the nnest sculpture now
every apartment of the immense in existence added dignity and in •
pontific£d palace on the Quirinal terest to every apartment. Aa
hill (except a few rooms occupied ode, written in honour of the £m-
by the Pope) new painted and peror, was sung by the best vocal
new furnished ; while three hun- performers, supported by the best
dred cooks were hired for the £m* orchestra Italy could produce |
peror and his suite ; thirty car- while sixteen rooms were thrown
riages, besides those of tne de- open containing supper-tables, ex-
^ased Queen of Spain, put into hibiting, among other decorations,
requisition for his service; and highly-finished miniature paintinga
three hundred coachmen and foot- on wax ; and loaded with evei^
men clothed in sumptuous live- luxury of the Roman market i
ries, and engaged to wait on him, such indeed was the quantity of
his companions, and attendants: eatables provided for Uiis enters
und from the moment when he tainment, that no sooner had on^
arrived, to that on which he dish been emptied than another
departed, a fete of some descri^ appeared, as if brought by magic,
lion was daily proposed for. ms- to fill its place. One of these
amusement, to fill up the time not supper-tables encircled the bronze
- occupied by church-ceremonies, statue of the wolf which was struck
The most striking of these enter- with lightning when Caesar Ml ;
tainments was the illumination of and this statue made a beautiful
S. Peter's, and the display of fire- ornament : other tables were
works at Uie Castle of S. Angelo ; adorned with equal taste ; in short
the former being lighted according nothing was wanted, but the pre*
to Michael Angelo's plan, the lat- sence of Rosa Taddei and Ssricci
ler exhibiting the Mausoleum of in the Arcadian hall, to add» by
Adrian in its original form, super- the wonderful notes of their in-
added to the girandola, and other comparable lyres, to the various
customary changes. The Ffite enchantments of the evening*,
given at the Capitol was likewise It is usually, though not inva
(A) The word Cardinal in derived from first constituted, was, even for one moment,
Corrfy, a hinire { and no council his been no ftboliithed. *u v j ^*
hmg e*tabU*hed in Kurupe a:} that of the (i) " With stars of silver shone the bed Wf
Cardinals ; for, though at times debarred state." Hombb. Od. vi.
from exercising its wUhuFit^, it never, sinct ^k) Tt« ^^ ^^®'® ^® Arcadian Aeadem/
U4 llOMfi. [Ck VII.
riably, the wish of the Roman Go- list oi? 6BJfiCTS best worth
vemment that English Ladies notice, as they lie conti-
should have Tickets for the Cere- guous to "each other.
monies of the Holy Week, &c. ;
and when these Tickets are attain- Fbro Romano — Tempio della
able they may generally be pro- Concordia — Tempio di Giove To-
cured by an application to the nante — Tempio della Fortuna —
British Consul, or to Messrs. Arco di Settimio Severo — Chiesa
Torlonia and Co., who take di S. Adriano — Colonna di Fbea —
great pains to accommodate Pro- — Comizio— Curia — Chiesa di S*.
Testants, when they attend the Maria Liberatrice— Tempio di An-
Functions of the Roman Catholic tonino e Faustina — Tempio di
Church. Remo — Tempio della Pace— Arco
BritisliTravellers have lately been di Tito — Gradinata del Tempio di
allowed to hire, and fit up, a con- Venere e Roma — Colosseo — Arco
venient Apartment, on the outside di Costantino — Chiesa di S. Teo-
of the Porta del Popolo, but very doro — Arco di Settimio Severo in
near it, for the celebration of Di- Velabro—Arco di Giano Quadri-
vine Service, according to the rites fronte— Cloaca Massima — Chiesa
of the Protestant Church : and di S". Maria in Cosmedin — Tempio
this privilege was granted in the di Festa — Tempio della Fortuna
most handsome manner. Virile — Palazzo de" Cesari — Ci'r-
Rome contains several Hotels, cus Maorimus — Chiesa di S, Gre-
and a large number of private gorio sul Monte- Celio — Terme di
Lodging-houses. Among the for- Tito — Sette Sale — Chiesa di S,
mer Bre Le grand Hotel de la Ville, Martino in Monte — Chiesa di S.
in the Piazza del Popolo, an excel- Pietro in Vincoli — Chiesa di S".
lent, and not an expensive Inn, Maria della Navicella — Chiesa di
which furnishes an hundred and S. Stefano Rotondo.
fifty beds ^ — L Hotel d Europe, Obelisk of the Piazza del Popolo
Piazza di Spagna, likewise an ex- — Obelisk of the Trinita de" Monti
cellent inn — VH6tel de la Ville de — Statues, Horses, and Obelisk in
Paris, Via della Croce — L" Hotel the Piazza di Monte- Cavallo —
de Londres, Piazza di Spagni — Chiesa di S. Bernardo — Chiesa di
L" Hotel Damon, Via della Croce — S". Maria degli Angeli — Giardino
LHStel de S. Carlo, and V Hotel di Sallusto — Campus Scelerotus —
de la Sibylle, both in the Corso— Obelisk of S*. Maria Maggiore —
and VH6tel de la Grande Bretagne, Column in the Piazza di S', Maria
Via-Babuino. Maggiore — Basilica di S". Maria
' Innkeepers at Rome are in the Maggiore — Obelisk ofS. Giovanni
habit of compelling Travellers to in Laterano — Battisterio di Cos-
hire their apartments per week ; a tantino — Basilica di S. Giovanni
very inconvenient custom: but at in Laterano — Scalo Santa — An-
TheEuropa, and also at La Sibylle, ftteatro Castrense — Basilica di
Families and single persons are Santa Croce in Gerusalemme —
received by the day. Temple of Venus and Cupid —
Claudian Aqueduct — Chiesa di S*.
assemble, when they present the laurel crown considering abont ten minutes, to speak, on
to any one of their Members, is in the Ca- the given subject, a tragic dramn, divided
pitol. iQto tive aetM, so well constructed, and so
Rosa Taddei (called, in Arcadia, Licora beautiful with respect to veritilicatioQ and
Parthenopia) is a celebrated Jmprovvisatrice : sentiments, that ixAn scarce poMsible for those
and Sig. Tommaso Sgricci's powers, as an who listen not to think him inspired.
Improvvisatore, are snch that, on being given (/) This useful Establishment is one of the
the most diflBcult subject for a tragedy which many comforts for which Travellers are in-
Us audience can suggest, be never fails, after debted to Messrs* Torlonia,
Ch, Vn.] ROME. 245
Bibiana — Tempio cU Minerva Me^ di Loretto—di Gesu-^i fif. Andrea
dica—Arco di Gallieno—Chiesa di delta Valle—della TriniU de' Pele-
8. Praasede. grini — di S. Carlo a* Catenari —
Campidoglio — Tenyn'o di Pal- di S. Giovanni de" Fioretitini —
lade — Tempio e Foro di Nerva — di S". Maria in Vallicelli--di S\
— Fbro e Colonna Trajana — Mau- Maria delta Pace — di S. A^tino^
soleo di C. Poblicius BibtUus — Palazzi Bor^hete — Sctarra-^
Dogana Pontificia — Obelisk of Doria — Bracctano — Colonna —
Monte- Citorio — Colonna Antonina Giustiniani — Chiesi di S, Luigi
— Mausoleo dAtigusto-rMausoleo. di Francia — Palazzi Masiimi —
Adriano, Braschi—Famese — Spada — Mattei
Tempio del Sole, net Giardino — Costaguti — Falconieri — Fame'
Colonnese ^Obelisk of the Piazza sina — Corsini — Accademia di S.
di S'. Maria sopra Minerva — Lucca,
Chiesa di S'. Maria sopra Minerva
^Pantheon^Bagni dAgrippa-^ promenades.
Teatro di Pompeo, Campo di Fiori Rome is embellished with one of
— Palazzo- Stoppani — Piazza Na- the most magnificent Promenades
vona^ChiesadiS'.Agnese—Tedtro in Europe, that begun by the
di Marcello— Portico d Octavia — French, and finished by Pius VII,
Tempio d Esculapio — Chiesa di S. on the Pincian Hill. The ascent
Cecilia in Trastevere — Basilica di to this Promenade is from the
5*. Maria in Trastevere. Piazza del Popolo ; and on the
Chiesa di S', Prisca, Monte- height nearly opposite to that
Aventino — Chiesa di S", Sabina — Piazza, Pius VII erected an Egyp-
Chiesa di S. Alessio — Villa of the tian Obelisk charged with Hiero-
late King of Spain — Sepolcro di glyphics ; and found in a Circus,
Cajo Cestio — Terme di Caracalla supposed to have been constructed
— Sepolcro dsgli Scijpioni — Porta by Heliogabalus, in the vicinity of
S. Sebastiano — Basilica di S, Se- the Amphitheatrum Castrense, on
bastiano alle Cdtacombe — Circo di the outside of the walls of Rome.
Romolo — Sepolcro di Ccedlia Me- Next to this drive on the Pincian
tella— Basilica di S.Paolo — Chiesa Hill, the most frequented Prome-
di S. Paolo alle tre Fontafie — nades are, the Corso, the Park of
Chiesa di S, Urbano alia Cqffarella the Villa- Borghese, and the Road
— Fontana delta Dea Egeria — between the Porta- Pia and the
Tempio di Redicolo — Chiesa di S'*. Mons Sacer.
A^nese fuori Porta-Pia — Chiesa The extensive Garden of the
di S^. Costanza — Mons Sacer — Villa- Medici, now the French
Porta S. Lorenzo — Basilica di S, Academy, is open to the Public
Lorenzo — Porta- Maggiore, as a Promenade; and so is the
Basilica di S. Pietro — Vaticano Garden, made by Pius VII, near
— Chiesa delta Trinita de^ Monti the Colosseum ; and consisting of
— Chiesa dei P. P, Capuccini — Pa- three Walks : that on the right of
lazzo - Barberini — Chiesa di S'^. the principal entry leads toward
Maria delta Vittoria — Fontana di the Celian Hill ; that in the centre
Termini — Chiesa di S, Andrea, h toward S. Giovanni in Laterano ;
Monte- Cavallo — Palazzo- Pontifl- and that on the left is part of the
do — Palazzo-ltospigliosi — Fon- ancient Sutmrra^ the most fre-
tana di Trevi, quented quarter of ancient Rome.
Chiese di S", Maria del Popolo
-rfe 5. Carlo at Corso^i S. ^^^^^^ ^«^^ ^°*'«-
Lorenzo in Lucinor-di S. Ignazio Villa- Olgiati, fuort la Porta
— rfe' fif. S. A^ostoli-^i S^. Maria del Popolo. This.Casina (hkewise
ft4« VILLAS NfiAR ROME. [Ch.VIl.
««J3[ed Viltetta-Nelli, and known Here likewise in a room paittted by
% the name of RaphaeVs Villa) Hamilton, who has represented
-was once inhabited by that Artist the Story of Paris and Helen ; and
and his Scholars ; and stiU con- in the same room is a superb nio-
tains some of their works ; one of dem Vase of oriental marble. The
which, the Marriage of Alexander most striking eaa«l pictures are ;
and Roxana, is a beautiM little S. John, by Mengs — a Bacchanal
Fresw)". lian Scene, byNicolasPoussin — ^the
contains handsome Fountains, and and a Portrait of Paul V, by Carji,-
ft Temple called that of iEscula- vaggio. This Villa also contains
pius, trom an ancient Statue of a Ceiling painted by Caceaniga,
^sculapius placed there. The to represent the Fall of Phaeton
Portico of the Villa leads to a — two Ceilings by Conca, — th?
splendid /fa/?, the Ceiling of which one representing Anthony and
was painted by Mariano Rossi, and Cleopatra, — the other a Baccha-
represents t^e delivery of Rome nalian Sacrifice ; and likewise a
from the Gauls, by Furius Camil- Ceiling (painted by Lanfranco,
lus. Here, likewise, placed most and retouched by Corvi) which
kdvantageously, near the Ceiling, represents Hercules, Antaeus,
IS an Alto-riHevo of Curtius de- ^c. ",
Voting himself to tlie Dii manes, Vitla-Ludovisia, near the Porta
The Horse (than which nothing Salara'*, This superb Villa once
can be finer) is certainly antique ; tnade part of the Gardens of Sal-
but, according to some opinions lust, and now belongs to the Prince
the figure of Curtius is modern, of Piombino : it consists of three
Among the Statues in other apait- Casini. The fa9ade of the largest,
ments on the ground floor are, an on the left, near the Gate of En*
Hermaphrodite, (fpund in the gar- trance, is embellished with Statues,
^ens of flallust, and supposed to Busts, and ancient Bassi-rilievi :
be Grecian sculpture,) resting on and that on the right contains a
a MattriBs$, excellently executed, choice collection of ancierit sculp-
though modem ! — an ancient copy ture ; namely — a colossal Head of
in marble of the Shepherd Mar- Juno U — Statues of ^sculapius,
tins, extracting a thorn from his Apollo, and Venus — a Bust of
feot-^^leeping Loves, by Algardi Claudius, the head being bronze,
-—and several Statues found at the rest marble — a Bust of Julius
Trascati: among which are; Ve- Caesar — Statues of Antoninus Pius,
nus — a Priestess of Apollo — Ceres and Apollo — a Bust of Antinous-*
^— Domitian, (valuable from its a Statue of Mars in repose, with
rarity) — a Vestal — and a Head of Love at his feet ! 1 restored by Ber-
Tiberius. The Ceiling of the Gal- nini — a Group of Apollo and Diana
lery up stairs was painted by — and ditto of Pan and Syrinx — ^a
Pietro Angeletti, and represents Statue of Cleopatra — a Gladiator
the Fable of Acis and Galatea, seated — ^the Head of Bacchus —
Over the fire-place of another Venus Anadyomene — Hercules —
apartment is a Basso -riltevo in Bacchus — Mercury — and a figure
tOsso antico, by Agostino Penna. finely draped, and supposed to re-
(«) Persons who wish to see the paintings ways ready to shew the Villa when desired ;
J4 (hiff Villa, sUoijld apply to the Costode, and generally there, from two o'clock till four
Via Oolonna, No. S9, fourth piano. in the afternoon during winter and spring. .
(») The Cnstode of the Villa,- Bpi^ese liyes (<>) The Villa Ludovisia, though beyond
in the Borghese Palace at Rome ; bat is al- the Streets, 'm within the W^alls olJEloiQe.
COl VIIJ YILLAB NBAR ROMS* |4|
present Agii^infiL Here Itkewisa Crltoa and Nieoll^us.) InthMM
IS the celebrated group, executed, the right aie two Canephoro 9M
according to the inscription it a Statue of Juna The Portico i4
bears, by Mendaus, a Grecian ornamented with a Statue supposed
sculptor, and supposed to repre- to represent one of the Houni»
sent Phaedra and Hippolitus ; or several Statues of Roman Empe*
Ohrestes discovered by his sister .rors, ^c, Tfa» Staircase of the
Electra; or Piapirius Fratextatus VUla dbplays a Basso-rilievo of
and his Mother>^!!I! Here too Rome triumphant! — ditto of three
is the almost equally celebrated of the Children of Niobe! — and
Group, called Ptetus and Aria ; ditto of Juno-Lucina, (Juno who
thou^ Winckehnann thinks it may eives life, or light,) or the goddess
represmit Canace receiving the Rumilia, supposed to protect in*
sword sent by her Father I ! T On lants. 'Hiis ^asso-rilievQ is £tras-
the Ceding of a Room in the third can, and the most ancient work of
Casino is Guercino's Auroral!! its kind in Rome. The Apart-*
a Fresco equally admired with that ments leading to the GaUsry con*
of Guido, though totally different tain several Small Statues : among
from it; as the one represents which are — Pallas, in broniel —
Evening, Night, and Day-break ; Diana, in oriental alabaster, with
the other Sunrise. On the Ceiling the head, hands, and feet of tHrooM
of the room over Guerdno's Au* —-the Hercules of Glycon, in bronze
rora is a beautiful figure of Fame, — Diogenes — ^the Palladium — Sile^*
accompanied by War and Peace I nus— two Fauns — ^Apollo Sauroo*
and the Casino likewise contains tonus, in bronze ! ! I tbund on the
two Landscapes painted in fresco, Aventine Hill, and supposed to be
by Guercino ; and two by Dome- the Apollo Sauroctonus of Praxi-
uchino ; with a semi-colossal Bust teles, described by Pliny — Osiris,
of Marcus Aurehus, in porphyry, curious for the material with whidi
the head being bronze. Among it is made — and a Serapis of Ca*
the £aMt-n7t>vt in this Villa, Pyr- nopus, in green basalt! — On a
rhus is the most celelnrated. In marble disk over one of the doors,
^ the garden are several pieces of is the combat of Apollo with Her*
ancient sculpture, among which cules, for the recovery of the sa-
is the Statue of a Senator, with cred Tripod — and fixed in the wail,
- Zeno, the name of a Grecian over a fire-place, is the celebrated
artist, on the drapery \ and beautiful Alto^rilievo of Anti-
Villa-Albam. This is one of nous in profile, found among the
the most magnificent Villas in the ruins of Adrian's Villa ! I ! The
environs of Rome ; and contains a Gallery, a splendid apartment, in-
large and highly valuable collec- crusted and paved with rare mar-
tion of Sculpture. The fi-ont of bles, has on its Ceiling a Fresco
the Villa is embellished with a by ^engs, representing Apollo
noble Portico, each end of which and Mnemosyne enchx;!^ by the
has a small Cabinet : in that on Muses ! This apartment is liker
the left are two Statues of Cane- wise adorned with two BasH-^-
phorse! and one of the Statues Uevij representing Trophies — an
caUed Caryatides ! ! (found on the Etruscan BoMa-ruiwa represenl-
Fia-Appia, and inscribed with the ing a sacrifice ! — a BoMo-rihevo of
names of two Athenian sculptors, Hercules between two of the Hes-
. „ tke Villft-Lvdoyiu* ota-
withoat ft written oiderOoo^t
" from the Prince of FioQ.
848 VILLAS NEAR ROME. [Ch. VH.
peride9l — ditto of Icarus and Dab- Scholars of Praxiteles — a Pallas of
dalus, found at the foot of the the Mgins, School — a Small Sta-
Palatine H ill— ditto of Bellerophon tue of a Fisherman, placed on a
and Pegasus — and ditto of Mar- Triangular Pedestal, representing
cus Aurehus seated, with Faustina the Three Seasons into which th»
standing near him in the character ancients divided the year — and a
of Peace. HerealsoisasuperhSIa- * Basin of white marhle, twentyr
tue of Jupiter t ! and the celebrated two Paris feet in circumference,
Pallas attributed to Phidias ! ! ! It adorned with the Labours of Her-
has been already mentioned that cvles, m Basso-rilievo / and found
the original hands and arms of eight miles from Rome, on the
this Pallas were joined on to the Via-Appia, where Domitian raised
trunk, after the latter was finished : a Temple to Hercules. Another
the existing hands and arms are Apartment contains an ancient
modem. A Room beyond the Mosaic, which represents the over^
GaUery contains a Basso-rilievo, flow of the Nile — and a small
apparently of the ^gina School ; Basso-t'tHevo, valuable on account
the subject is the final separation of its subject, which is Iphigenia,
of Orpheus and Eurydice. In the prepared to sacrifice Oresties and'
Gallery of Sculpture, below stairs, Pylades, in the Temple of Diana
contiguous to the first-mentioned at Taurica I These Apartments
Cabinet, are Hermae of Epicurus are hkewise enriched with a Statue
and Alexander ; and the celebrated of Cupid bending his bow, sup-
Mercury with a Double Inscrip- posed to be an ancient Copy of the
tion, the one Greek, the other Cupid of Praxiteles. In Front of
Latin — ^a Statue of Faustina seated a contiguous Building, is a Statue
—two statues of Venus — a Muse of the Ephesian Diana, placed on
— a Faun — and a Priestess. In a Pedestal ornamented by fine
the Gallery contiguous to the other Bassi-rilievi : and, at the bottom
Cabinet are — Hermse of Euripides ^ of the Garden, is another Building,
^and Numa — a Statue of Hope, in' with a Circular Portico, where are
the style of the ^cina School — Statues of Mercury, Achilles,
Statues of Fauns — Apollo — Diana Apollo, Diana, Hercules, Bacchus!
— and a Priestess, supposed to be and two Canephorse I found at
an ancient imitation of a Grecian Frascati. Among the Busts and
statue. Beyond this Gallery is an Hermae in this Portico, the most
Apartment containing a marble remarkable are those of ^sop.
Sarcophagus ornamented with a Chrysippus, Theophrastus, Iso-
representation of the Marriage of crates, Quintus Hortensius, Ca-
Peleus and Thetis!! The next ligula, Balbinus, and Aurelian.
Apartment contains a Bust, called The Apartments to which the Por-
Berenice, in porphyry, with the tico forms an entrance contain
Head of green basalt' — Busts of Statues of Egyptian Divinities,
Caracalla, Pertinax, and Lucilla — and two valuable pictures in Mo-
a Basao-rilievo representing Dio- saic, found at Frascati.
^enes in his Tub, conversing with Villa-Mattei. This Villa is si-
Alexander— and another Basso- tuated beyond the Arch of Dola-
rilievo in rosso-antico, represent- bella, though within the walls of
ing Daedalus making wings for Rome. The Garden is adorned
-Icarus. Here also is a Bust of with an Egyptian obelisk, (the up-
Serapis, in basalt ! with several per part of which is ancient, and
Bassi-rilievi in terra cotta. The charged with Hieroglyphics ;) and
next Apartment contains a work commands a particularly good view
called Ptolemy, by one pf the of Caraqalla's Baths. The Jint
Ch. VII.] VILLAS NEAR ROME.. . • 249
room shewn to Strangers, in the About three-quarters of a mile
Villsk, contains a Copy of the De- beyond the Porta S. Pancrazio, on
moniac Boy. Second room —Sta- the Fic^Aurelia, is the Villa' Do^
tue of a Sleeping Love — ditto^ of rta-Pamfili, of which Algardi was
Venus, by Canova — and a Group, the Architect. The Paddock
called Filial Affection, by a Spa- belonging to this Villa is nearly
nish Artist. Third room — a Copy four miles in circumference ; and,
of RaphaePs Galatea — a Picture according to some opinions, the
of 'the Salutation — and another of Site of the Gardens of Galba. The
the Saviour dead. Fburihroom-^ Villa contains several, pieces of
a Picture of Horatius Codes on Sculpture, among which are
the Sublician Bridge, copied by Donna Olimpia Maildachini —
Camuccini from that in the Ca- Faustina! — Vespasian — Marcus
pitol — ^a Landscape^and the sei- Brutus — and a Sibyl. Here, like-
zure of the Sabines. Fifth room — wise, is a Sketch, by Raphael—
a Picture of a Saint blessing a ditto, by Giulio Romano— a Bust
dyin^ person — another Pictiu-e of of Demosthenes ! — ditto, of ano-
the Martyrdom of a Saint, and a ther Philosopher — a Group of Cy-
Bust of Nero, by Canova. In the bele seated on a Lion ! — Groups of
Sixth room is an ancient Pave- Children at play — Clodius in fe-
ment, found near the Villa. male attire — an Hermaphrodite —
Villii-Doria'PamJUi, Juori la Bacchus, in rosso antico— a 5a**o-
Porta S, Pancrazio, On the Ja- rilievo of a famous Gladiator, who
niculum Hill, and in the way to lived during the reign of Cara-
this Villa, is the Church of S, calla — and two beautiful Sarco-
Onofrio ; which contains, under phagi, one rejlresenting the Story
its Portico, three Lunettes, painted of Meleager, the other Diana de-
by Domenichino. The Madonna scending from the celestial Re-
and our Saviour, over the Door, gions to visit Endymion. In a
were likewise done by the same room above stairs is a Portrait of
great master ; and, in the Church, the Cenci ; and in the attic story a
are the Tombs of Torquato Tasso, small Museum. The Roof of this
and Alessandro Guidi ; the former Villa commands a fine view of
of whom died in the adjoining Rome ; and in the Garden, near
Convent, which contains a Bust, the Gate of Entrance, is an ancient
moulded from his face. Public Burial-Place^ well worth .
Beyond the Church of S. Ono- observation,
frio is the Fontana-Paolina, con- Villa-Madamat fuori la Porta-'
structed at th^ command of Paul Angelica, This Edifice, which
V, by Fontana, with materials stands near the base of the Monte-
taken from the Forum of Nerva, Mario (anciently Clivus Cinnce),
This magnificent Fountain dis- was desired by Raphael, and
plays six Ionic Columns of red finished aicer his death, bv Giuliq
granite, supporting an entabla- Romano; who painted tne Por-
tiu%, upon which rest the Ar- tico, and designed the Ornaments
morial Bearings of the PontifP. in Stucco, with which it is em-
Prom three Njches, between the bellished. Theinterior of the Villa,
Columns, rush three Torrents of though in a ruinous state, still
Water, and precipitate themselves displays a beautiful Frieze, and a
into a vast Basin of marble : while Ceiling, both painted by Giulio
from two smaller Niches rush Romano, who has represented, on
smaller Streams, out of the Mouths the latter, the Cars of Diana, and
of Dragons. The water is sup- Apollo, Birds, Beasts, &c. ; among
plied from Trajan's Aqueduct, which are a sleeping Lion, and a
«5ft • ENViaONS OF RQME-TTfOLI. [CIlTIH:
e^^t |Noing t» bd sa^riiiced, both Molle» Tttwr, .City of Rome, and
fttieljr executed. This room like- mountains of the Apennine ap*
wise contains most valuable Car^ pear to more adwntage here, than
t6ons^; which are so totally no- from any other spot,
glected, that they must very soon A winding path leads from th«
be quite spoiled. In two other Villa-Madama to the Villa-Md-
lOoms are Friezes and Cartoons, lina, situated on the up^^ part of
eruelly injured, but once- v^ the Monte-Mario, and command-
beautifuh The view from this ing a distant prospect of the Me«
Villa is charming ; and Uie Ponte ditenranean sea".
Chapter VIU.
TIVOLI, SUBIACO, CORA, FRASCATI, PALES-
TRINA, ALBANO, AND OSTIA.
Exenrs'on from Rome to Tivolt — Pons Mammeus — Monnm^at of Jalift Stemitia — L^fo d«*
Tartan— Bridge of the Solfatara — Ponte Lacano — Adrian's Villa— Oastias'a Villa — Inns
at Tiroli— Temple of the Tiburtine" Sibyl— Tamplc of Vesta— Qrotto of Neptune— Oiotto
of the Sirens— Circnlar Terrace^ Villa of Vams^Ponte del AquoriaF— Tempio della Tiwaa
•^-Mecanas's Villa— Site of the Villa of Sallast — Site of the Temple of Hercules— Gatdea
of the Villa d'Este — Ciaadian Aqueduct neat the Convent of S. Cosimato— Horace's ViUa,
and Sabine Farm — Subiaco — Benedictine Convent — Forest Scenery near Civitella — Cora
—Excursion from Rome to Frascati — Sepulchre — Grotto-Ferrata — Villas Belvedere and
RuflSnella — Ruins of Tusculum — Excursion to Palestrina — Temple of Fortune — Villa of
Antoninus Pius — Excursion to A Ibano-— Tomb erected by Pompey— rAmphitheatre — Reser-
voir — Prastorian Camp — Moseam — Lago-Qastello ~ CastaUGandolfo — Nymphaa — Eanis-
sario — Tomb, commonly called that of the Cmriatii — Via-Appia — Climate of Albaoo, a&d
Aricia — liodging'hou;)es, 6te. — ExeanioB to Osria— Ancient Town— Caatel-Fusaoo-^Tor
Boracciana— Isola Sacra— Fiomicino—Clandiaa Harbour-^Towa of Portua — ^Modern Ostia
oCharaoter of the Romans.
As British Travellers seldom vi- ther : and persons who wish to
sit Rome without making Excur- view the scenery to advantage
(»ions thence, to Tiyoli, Frascati, should ^o during May, or October.
Palestrina, and Ostia, it may not. The price usually ^ven for an
perhaps, be superfluous to men- open carriage^ witn six seats, and
tion me most convenient way of four horses, is from eight to ten
seeing those places, and some scudi ; goine and returning the
others in their neighbovirhood. same day, and including the m^ona-
mono of one scudo, commonW
TivoLt. given to the driver. The usuu
The distance from Rome to price for a light open carriage with
TivoH, is about eighteen Roman two horses, going and returning
miles. This excursion ought to the same dajr, but not including
be made in dry and temperate \vea- buonamano, is four scudi'. The
(r) Late in the spring, when the weather at carriages to meet them at the foot of the hill
Rome becomes hot, parties frequently go to behind that Villa.
the VillaMadama, Uking with them a eold («) It should always be necified, in the
dinner, which they eat on the Terrace there ; bi^aia for the carriafe and hordes, that the
aad then yroceed to the shady walks which Hirer means to |^o round by Adrian'^ Villa,
•urronBd. tka ViUa^MeUiai ; oMaring tliMT on the way to TtToU.
«». VlHJ ENVIRONS Olf ROME— TIVOLL
«51
tdad, generaHy speaking, is good ; bultB ; * which smeUs oftiensi>«ly>
though now and then, in the an- and is of a whitish-blue colour^
eient Via-TilmrHna, (great part reseml^ing milk. Not far hence a
of which still remains,) there are beautiful Landscape presents itself
large loose blocks of basalt, which, to view^ formed by the Poatt
if not avoided, might break a car> Lucano, the Anio, and the Plau-
riage. tian Tomb. The Ponte Lucano is
After passing the Gate and supposed to derive its name Irom
Church of S. Lorenzo, the first M.PlautiusLucanus: which seems
int^^sting object is the Ponte^ probable, as close to this Bridge
Mammolo (Pons MeanmeufJ stands the above-mentioned Bu*
thrown over the Teverone, an- rial place of his family, a remark-
ciently called the Anio, from Anius, ably handsome Edifice of its kind^
who precipitated himself into it. constructed with the Lapis Tihertu
This Bridge is about four miles »»#, found in quarries on the side
distant from Rome, and derives its of the Apennine, nearTivoli. After
present appellation from Mammea crossing the Ponte Lucano, the
tthe mother of Alexander Severus,) road divides ; one branch leading
by whom it was repaired. Further to Tivoli, (which is about two
on, (between eleven and twelve miles distant,) the other leading
taiiles &om Rome,) is a small Mo- to Adrian's Villa, which is about
nument erected to the memory of one mile and a half distant from
Giulia Stemma^ by her children: the bridge, and near twice as
and beyond this, (about half a much from the Town. Travellers
niile,) on the left of the high-road, usually take the latter road : and,
and very near it, is the Logo d^ on arriving at Adrian's Villa, send
Tartari, anciently a volcano. The for the Cicerone, to conduct them
water of this Lake tartarizes every through the Ruins; all of which
vegetable substance with which it may be seen in less than two
comes in contact, and is curiously hours : and, during this time, it is
edged round with petrifactions, customary for the drivers to shelter
At a short distance beyond this their horses and wait. Adrian
Lake the ancient Via- Tiburtina himself was the architect of this
formed two branches ; one of celebrated Villa, which extended
which, under tiie name of Via- three miles in length, and one in
Valeria, went to the left ; and breadth, and contained Temples,
crossing the Anio on a Bridge, Theatres, Baths, and Porticos,
now called Ponte Aquoria, led up
to Tivoli ; while the other, crossing
the Anio at the Ponte Lucano, led
to Adrian's Villa : the former road,
however, is now abandoned, and
adorned with chefs-dceuvres of
sculpture and painting ; to which
buildings he gave the names of the
most remarkable edifices in the
world, calling one the Lyceum of
the latter pursued to a Bridge Aristotle, another the Academia
thrown over the Canal of the Sol- of Plato, a third the Prytaneum of
fatara ; a sulphureous stream, an- Athens, a fourth the Serapeon of
ciently denominated Aquce Al- Canopus, a fifth the Poeciie of the
(<) The Canal of the Solfatara was made
to convey the superabandant water of a Lake,
anciently called Aqtue Aibultt^ into the A.nio.
This suiphureons Lake is about one mile north
'of the Bridge of the Solfatara-Canal ; and con-
tains floating Islands, formed by roots of trees,
-shrubs, and reeds, interlaced with a verjr
small portion of earth. The water of thi^
Lake is warmer than the external air : and
though, both above and below Tiroll, thert
are lishes in the Anio, yet, after it receives
the AtbulcBj there are none. Near the Lake
are vestiges of Agrippa'a Baths, frequented
by Auguiitus ; and in consequence of (he repa«
rations they afterwards received from Zoaobia,
Jueen of Palmyra, these Ruins are now called
Uigni delta Reffina,
253 ENVIRONS OP ROME— TIVOLL [Ch. VIIL
Stoics, «$■<?. ^c. The most inter- Barracks for the Pretorian
estin^ of these Ruins are. The Guards, .The number of cham-
Greek Theatre^ where the Prosce- bers contained in these Barracks
nium and Seats for the spectators has given them the name of Cento-
may still be traced : and adjoining Camerelle. This Edifice seems to
to this Theatre, toward the west, have had Three Stories : on the
are remains of a large Square outside were Galleries, supported
Court, once surroimded with ror- by columns ; and each Chamber
ticos. Contiguous is a Modem had one door only, which opened
Edifice, erected on the ruins of a into the Gallery parallel with it.
Nymphceiim. The communications now disco-
Poecile, This was originally an verable between these Chambers
oblong building with a Portico are evidently of modem date,
round it, omamented by double Naumachia. Judging by the
rows of columns. One Side- Wall shape of the ground, this seems to
alone remains. have been likewise a Circus.
Temple of the StoicSy in shape Serapeon of Canopus^ built in
a hemicycle, with Niches for sta- inaitation of the celebrated Sera-
tues. It was originally lined with peon at Canopus in Egypt. The
porphyry. * Atrium^ or open Court^ belonging
Maritime Theatre* A Mosaic, to this Edifice, appears to have
representing marine monsters, been originally filled with water,
made part of the pavement of the Some of the Chambers appro-
Edifice in question, which was priated to the priests, and an apart-
therefore called by its present ment with remains of Paintings,
name : but, as the Duilding is cir- may still be distinguished. On
cular, it probably was either an the right of the Serapeon are Ruins
Amphitheatre, or a Nastatio, To of the Academia ; and likewise of
the left of this Ruin are remains another Greek Theatre : and, to the
of what appears to have been a left of the Serapeon, was the En-
Library: and another Ruin, not trance to the Infemal Regions, with
far from the Temple of the Stoics, the Elysian Fields not far distant,
is called, though without sufScient Vale of Tempe. Through this
authority, the Temple of Venus little Valley flows a Streamlet, in
and Diana. imitation of the Peneus, by which
Royal Apartments. This Edi- the celebrated Thessalian Vale was
fice is large, and appears to have watered : and after having reached
had Two Stories ; in the . lower of this part of Adrian's Villa \ Tra-
which, remains of Paintings aie vellers usually get into their car-
discernible : and in the subterra- riages, and ascend the hill to Ti-
nean part are Cryptae, resembling voli, passing through a venerable
those, supposed to have been eel- wood of olives ; among which, on
Jars, in the Villa of Diomedes at the right, are remains of the Villa
Pompeii. Contiguous to a long of Cassius.
line of Arches in this part of the Tivoli, the ancient Tibur, a
ViUa, is an Edifice with remains place of high antiquity ', is built
of Ceilings, beautifully stuccoed, upon rocks formed of a deposition
und Baths adjoining. from the water in this neighbour-
(«) Scarce any windows can be traced in the his attendance, one scudo.
remiining buildini^s of this Villa. (o) Dionytiios of^ Halicarnassus informs as
Per»on!i who bring a cold dinner from Rome that Tibur. according to tradition, was built
find Hpend t-he day here, find a tolerable apart- by the Sicani, bixty years previous to tjie
nient to dine in, furnished by the Cuslode ; Trojan war.
who expects for the use of this apartment, and
Ch. VIII.] ENVIRONS OF ROME— TlVOLl. 255
hood, united with' roots and by an open Portico of fluted Corn-
branches of pebified trees. Pre- posite Columns, whose Capitals
vious to the Autumn of 1826, the are adorned with Lilies, (emble-
Anio descended, from a great matical, perhaps, of Vestal purity,)
height, at the east end of the and support an Entablature deco-
Town, where it formed a large rated with Heads of Oxen and
and beautiful Cascade ; and after Festoons of Fruits and Flowers '.
a second Fall, under a lofty Bridge, Hence an excellent path, made by
lost itself among rocks worn into General MioUis, leads to the
fantastic shapes by the force of the Grotto of Neptune. Nothing can
water: but an unexampled inun- be more delightful, both to the
dation of the Anio, during the Au- painter and the naturalist, than
tumn of 1826, swept away the this walk ; the views it presents
Bridge ; and what is still more la- being remarkably picturesque ; and
mentable, destroyed all the beauty the petrifactions in the rocks ex-
of the Cascade. A branch of the tremely curious. In one place is
same river is carried through Ti- a Petrified Carriage-wheel, and in
voli ; and forms small Cascades, another the Hoof of a Quadruped,
which should be viewed from the The Grotto of Neptune, into which
opposite bank. The best Inn at the Anio precipitates itself with
Tivoli in some respects is La Re- such violence as to form a spray
gina ; though, in point of situation, resembling rain, combines the sub-
that called Im Sibilla is preferable, lime and beautiful so wonderfully,
Near the latter stands the Temple that even Salvator Rosa's magic
of the Tiburtine Sibyl, now con- pencil could not do justice to the
verted into a Church : it is the scene ; and at the entrance of the
most ancient Temple remaining at Grotto is a Rock which, with very
Tivoli ; and appears to have been little aid from Imagination, might
built in the form of a paraJlelo- be figured as the Genius of the
gram, with an open Portico, Anio sculptured by the nervous
adorned by four Ionic Columns, hand of Michael Angelo. On re-
and terminated with a Pediment, turning hence. Travellers are
The Columns on the outside of usually conducted down a Narrow
this Edifice are still discoverable ; Flight of Steps, into a deep Ravine,
but there is nothing worth notice to see the Grotto of the Sirens ;
within. Adjoining to the above- which exhibits the third Fall of the
named Temple is a shabby modern Anio ; and presents a picture al-
building, which extends to the most equally striking with the
Temple of Vesta. This beautiful Grotto of Neptune *.
specimen of ancient architecture, The next object of interest is the
groudly situated on a rock which Circular Terrace ; which displays
angs over one of the Cascades, is the small Cascades to great ad-
a Rotondo, twenty-one Paris feet vantage, and makes a round of
and a half in diameter, surrounded about four Roman miles. In this
(to) Vesta, as the pxidess of light and heat, by Adrian ; who seems to have liked every
produced by tire, was supposed to preside over thing which reminded him of Kgypt.
the earth; and therefore the decorations of («) The spray of the Anio makes the adja-
tlie Frieze of this Temple are expressive of cent ground so slippery, that it is dangerous
the productions of the earth, and consequently to venture close to the gulph into which thd
of her worship. The ox, as the symbol of river precipitates itself: and the steps, and
agriculture, was sacrificed to Vesta. path, leading to the Grotto of the Sirens, ara
The door of entrance to this Temple, and the dangerous, it not passed with caution,
only window which remains perfect, are nar- Persons unaccustomed to long walks usually
TOwer at top than at bottom ; and, thus far, have donkeys in readiness at the Garden Gate,
the building resembles an Egyptian edifice: near the Temple of Vesta, to carry then
probably therefore it was erettea, or repaired, round the circular Terrace.
294 ENVIRONS OF ROME— TIVOLI, [Ch, Till,
traek, on the right, stands a cruelly {ram neglect. Hence TVaf '
Church, called The Madonna di vellers usually return to their Inn ;
Quintiliolo, and erected on the . dining there, and afterwards diiv-
foundatiohs of the Villa qfOtuinti- ing back to Rome'.
lius VaTu$j supposed to have been Persons who wish to see the re-
very magnificent, and si ill exhibit- mains of the Claudian Aqueduct
ing remains of a Reservoir for near the Convent of S. Coeimato,
watery resembling, though in mi- and to extend their excursion to
niature, that at Baia, called the SubiacOt and Cora^ should sleep at
Piscina mirabilis. This part of the Tivoli ; thence, setting out early next
Terrace commands a distant \iew morning, upon mules, or donkeys,
of the Cathdral ; which is only re- for the above-named Convient ; on
markable for being placed on the the road to which, are seen re- •
Site of the Temple of Hercules, mains of the Martian Aqueduct,
Beyond the Ponte del Aquoria, and villages sweetly situated on the
{an ancient Bridge in excellent peaks of mountains. The Con-
preservation,) is an Edifice simi- vent stands on a romantic cliff,
lar, in shape, to the Temple of overhanging a deep and narrow
Minerva Medica, at Rome, and valley; through which flows the
equaUy well preserved : it is called Anio ; broken into beautiful cas-'
Tempio ddla Tossa ; but whether cades, by fragments of tartareous
because originally consecrated to rocks, apparently fallen from the
Tussis, the- god of coughs, or be- surrounding precipices. Travel,
cause it was the Sepulchre of the lers, on reaching this spot, are, in
Tossi family, seems uncertain. On the first instance, conducted to the
the left of this Edifice, the ancient Brink of a perpendicular Roek,
Roman Road to Tivoli passes (situated beneath a petrified mast
through the Ruins of Measnas'a of tartareous depositions, which
Villa ; enough of which remains to overhangs it,) in order to view the
prove that it must have been spa- remains of one Arch of the Clau*'
cious and splendid. Near this dian Aqueduct, serving originally
Villa are Rocks consisting of Pe- as a Bridge over the river. The
tri factions ; and opposite to it is opposite side of this stream if
the Site of the Villa of Sallustt clothed with woods. Passing
called, by some persons, that of through the Convent, Travellars
Horace ; but his Villa was ten are, in the next instance, conduct,
miles distant. Beyond the Site of ed down a Narrow Passage and
the Temple of Hercules, to which Staircase, formed in the rock, to a
Mecaenas's domain extended, is Gallery ; below which are Cells for
the Villa d'Este, standing in a Monks, and lower still is the Aque-
Garden, which contains Water duct. Part of the interior of this
Works, called the Girandola — a magnificent Work, which was car-
Fountain embellished with a Co- ried through the centre of several
Ipssal Statue of the Tiburtine Sibyl mountaii^s, may be seen buried
— and another Figure, represent- under the Convent Garden, and as
ing Tivoli. The Villa contains perfect as if only just finished.
Ceilings painted by Zuccari, Mu- Horace's Villa, and Sabine Farm,
siano, <$*c. ; but they have suffered are about three miles distant irom
(y) Travellers commoBly pay at Z a S/6f*Wrt, of the Inns: and persons who require tea,
at 'livoli, for dinner, per head, from six to eig^ht shonld take it with them,
piuls — for tea, two pauls — breakfast, two Ihe time usually employed in driving from
piuls— beds each, three panls— servants each, Rome to Adrian's Villa, is about three honrt
per day, three panls— and donkeys each, for and a halt— from Adrian's Villa to 'Jivoli,
the'lerrace, three pauls. It is impossible to about one hour— and from Tivoli to Rome,
procure good wine, or good water, at either ftbont four hoars.
CJi. Till J ENVIBONS or ROME^StJBUCO, *c. ««#
ttie Convent: but so little now r^ meneement of the ride; then pass-
mains of the Villa, that its founda- ing over a tract of open country,
tions cannot easily be traced*, atid close to the Town of S, Giu-
The road to Subiaco lies on the liano ; and at length entering a
right of that called the high-road steep, stony, slippery path, which
(hut a very bad one) leading to (he leads to Cora ; where the Inn is
Alwuzzi: and the Town of Subiaco abominable; but a Private Lodg-
is beautifully placed on a small ing may be obtained at the house
eminence^ surrounded with lofly of "a person called Alesandro della
mountains- There being no regular Porta. The distance from Pales-
Hotel in this Town, the accom- trina to Cora is about twenty miles,
modations for Travellers are most Cora, a Town of Latium, was built
wretched ; and heds cannot be pro- by a Colony of Dardanians, before
cured, without difficulty. The dis- the foundation of Rome , though
tancefromTivoli to Subiaco is t wen- the remains of its Temples are Ro-
ty-eiirht miles. The Walh to the Be^ man. Here is a picturesque Bridge,
nediciine Convent, about two miles and beyond it an ascent leading to
distant from the latter Town, dis- the Temple of Castor and Pollux;
plays grand and picturesque see- which displays two well preserved
nery : but the ascent to this Con- Columns with Corinthian Capitals ;
vent is long and steep. Passing and above them the following In-
within sight of Nero's Baths, the scription :
path leads, through a Grove of »ir r^ ; • t»
Ilexes, to a Precipice, at whose ^- Caston Pollvci de. cs. fac
base rolls the Anio, and on whose ^ calvivs. mfpn.
brow stands the Convent; which Several remains of CyclopianWallf
was founded during the fifth een*r present themselves m this Town ;
tury. Its situation is delicious ; but and some are very perfect. Th^
some overhanging rocks threaten Church of S. Pietro contains tracey
its Church witn ruin. After sleep- of the Temple of Hercules neay
ing at Subiaco, those Travellers the Door of Entrance: together
who delight in fine Forest Scenery, with an ancient Altar, adorned, at
usually go, through a Rocky Nar^ the four corners, by Rams* Heads
row Patn, to Civitella ; and thence supporting G^lands, but disfigured
to Palesirtna, This Path is only with modern Work. On the out-
fit for mules : the ascents and de-^ side of the Church stands the Por*
scents being uncommonly steep tico of the Temple of Hercules, Tht
and slippery. Near Civitella the Doorway is wider at the bottom
Forest Scer^ery commences ; and than the top, — according to the
the Valley i to tfie east of Olevano, Egyptian style of building ; and
is picturesque beyond description ; the i olumns are Roman Doric,
iand much frequented by Painters, fiuted part of the way ; but, toward
After passing Genazzeno, a miser* the bottom, polygonal. An la-
able place, the road becomes good ; scription may be seen over the
and continues so to Palestrina. This Doorway. The site of this Temple
is called a ride of twenty miles ; being elevated, it must have over*"
but appears to be more. After looked a considerable part of the
sleeping at Palestrina *, Travellers Pontine Marshes. The best road
frequently proceed to Cora, going from Cora to Rome is through
through beautiful lanes, at the com* Velletri.
(2) Aeeordtng to the description Horace (a) For an account of the acconnmodatiois
gives of this Villa, which he calls Lucretilis^ hei-e, see the Article " Palestrina."
H stood near the Fanum Vocumb; suppo.<ied (fr) See i.uCANt ?• V. 39:2.— VjiJioi^, JSn.6,
to hav« be«i tiie spot now called Kocca Gio- V, 77^*^
vane, and about ten nules from Tivuli.
256 ENVmONS' OY ROMB-^STSASCATl, &c. fCh. Vltl;
FRAsc ATX. and subsequently fortified with high
The distance, going straight, from walls and gates of iron, from the
Rome to Frascati, is ahout twelve latter of which its present name is
Roman miles : but the pleasantest derived. Its Church contains a
manner of making this excursion Chapel consecrated to S. Nilus,
is to go by way of Marino, and and adorned, by Domenichino, with
Grotto - Ferrata, (which circuit splendid Frescos, uncommonly well
lengthens the distance about four preserved. The most celebrated
miles,) and to retiun from Frascati of these Frescos are — S. Nilus
by the dire6t road. The price com- praying for rain — ^rain descending
monly given for a light open car- — o. Nilus meeting the Emperor
riage conveying two or three per- Otho III ! — (In this picture Dome-
sons only, and drawn by two nichino has represented himself,
powerful horses, is four scudi, buo- clothed in green, and holding the
namano not included : and by set- bridle of the Emperor's horse :
ting out early, this excursion may be with Guido leaning on the horse,
accomplished with ease in one day, and Guercino behind Guido.)
during dry and temperate weather. The Demoniac Boy, one of the
The road to Marino is the same finest Frescos existing!!!— Saints
as that to Albano, till witiiin about Nilus and Bartolommeo praying to
a mile and a half of the latter the Madonna — and an Architect
town ; when the Marino-road turns shewing the plan of the Convent to
off to the left, and passes through S. Nilus ! — ^the Altarpiece (an easel
a pretty country. Marino is well picture) is by Annibale Caracci —
situated in a salubrious air ; and, the Salutation, and all the other
judging from its Walls, apparently Frescos on the Walls, and in the
erected during the dark ages, it Cupola, are by Domenichino.
probably was, at that period, a An apartment up Hairs contains
place of strength and considerable a piece of a Frieze, said to have
consequence. Two of its Churches been found in Cicero's Villa, and
still claim attention ; that dedicated representing a Grecian Greneral
to S. Bamaby being ornamented speaking to an Officer and a Sol-
with a very fine picture by Guercino, dier, who are bringing a Wounded
representing the Martyrdom of S. Man into his presence.
Bartholomew; and that dedicated The distance from Grotto-Ferrata
to the Holy Trinity being enriched, to Frascati is little more than a
by the pencil of Guido, with a re- mile ; and the drive lovely. The
presentation of the Trinity; exe- origin of Frascati appears, from
cuted during his residence at Ma- Muratori, to have been as follows,
rino ; whither he retired for a time. After the barbarous Demolition of
owing to a controversy, about mo- Tusculum by Pope Celestin III, in
ney matters, with the Roman Go* 1191, those of its inhabitants who
vernment. The distance from Ma- survived their City, encamped on
rino to Grotto-Ferrata is short ; the skirts of the Plain, among the
and the road passes through a ruins of Lucullus's Villa*, where
beautiful country. they founded Frascati, .so named
Grotto- Ferrato, usually denomi- from the Italian word, frojsche^
nated the Site of Cicero's Tuscu- branches of trees, with which their
lanum, was, in times past, a cele- original huts were composed. In-
brated Convent, founded by S. stead of driving to the English
Nilus, of the Order of S. Basil ; Hotel, in the Town of Frascati,
(c) On the site of this extensive Villa according to Lumisden, Lncnllvs*! Library
•tanas the modem Yilla-LndoTisi ; where and OaUery for Statues may still be traced.
.Ch. yill.] . ENVIRONS OF ROME^-PALESTRINA.
257
TVaTeUersusually stop at^Atf Ft/fa tanoe to this ill-fated Town, from
Aldobrandiniy csjled the Belvedere^ the Belvedere, is about two Roman
on account of its beautiful situation: miles; the ascent continual, but
and in an apartment belonging to not steep.
this Villa persons who bring a cold . From Tusculum Travellers usu-
dinner from Rome are usually per- ally walk back to the Belvedere ;
mitted to dine. The Belvedere Ca- thence proceeding, in their car-
sino is a handsome Edifice, placed riages, by the direct road, through
on a terrace, and embellished with Frascati to Rome ; and passing, at
valuable marbles, and with Paint- the distance of about nine miles
ings by the Cav. d'Arpino. The from Frascati, theATon^^c^/Graito,
Garden contains an Apartment discovered about the middle of the
painted in fresco, by Domeni- sixteenth century to be the Family
chino ; and likewise exhibiting Sepulchre of Genesius Marcianus,
good Water Works \ In ordei? to the Father of Alexander Severus :
see the Villa-Ruflnellay and t?ie and here was found the Barberini
RuiiuvfTusculumtyiiihoMi waste- Vase, now in England, and distin-
of time, it is advisable for Stran- guished bv the appellation of the
gers to procure a Cicerone, under Portland tJm*.
whose guidance the walk is de- «.,««««,*,*
lightful through the Aldobrandini -. ^. p^i^^stmna.
domain to the Villa- Rufinella, The distance from Rome to
supposed, by some antiquaries, to Palestrma is about twenty-five
have -been the site of Cicero's ce- Roman miles ; and as five hours
lebrated academic retreat. On the and a half are usually occupied m
hill contiguous to this Villa are the ?^?"ff' ^^^ ^^^ ^.^V" ™ returning.
Ruins of Tusculum, which was J^-® ^^"^ possible to accomplish
founded, according to ancient His- ^his excursion m one day. The
torians, by Telegonus, the son of P"^f commonly charged for a
Ulysses ; and, like many of the old }j&*^* calash and a pair of strong
towns of Latium. plaied by its horses, going one day, and return-
Founder on a commanding emi- mg the next, is eight scudi. The
nence. Among the ancient Struc 'oad, chiefly the ancient Vxa-Rns-
tures still discoverable are remains «^*^«««. «, generally speaking, to-
bf what the Ciceroni denominate lerably good in dry weather ; the
"Schools of Cicero — a small pavement, especially near Pales-
Theatre, quite perfect, but filled ^^ ^^^J'^^ preserved. Be-
with earth and niins— Baths— and t^een that Town and Rome, on
remains of an Aqueduct. The an- approaching Colonna, the road
cientRoad, between the ViUa-Rufi- passes a Pool of Water, supposed
nella and Tusculum, may likewise ^o be the famous Lams RegiUus.
be traced : and the King of Sardi- ^^^ Posthumius defeated the
nia, who now possesses the Villa ?°"i°^,1^^^;^i?.' *"^,* ^T ""^®^
and adjacent land, is making large ^o the left of this Lake, but not
excavations; and bringing to light sufficiently near to be seen from
the long buried Walls, Gates, and the road, is tfie Loom Gabinus;
Streets of Tusculum. The dis- ^ the neighbourhood of which
((f) The room Qsaallv opened for the recep*
tion of Trayellers is that wherein the Water
Works are exhibited; and which, at every
■eason except summer, is damp and cold. The
Custbde of the Casino has, however, at his
disposal, another room which, thou^j^h small, is
drf and warm: and ike English Hotel at
'Frascati affords very tolerable aocommodation
for Travellers.
(e) The Castode of the Villa-Belvedere ez-
Sects live pauls tor the use of an apartment to
ine in ; and two pauls for exhibiting the Water
Works: and the Cicerone, who accompanies
Strangers to Tusculum, expects three or four
Sauls. Persons unaccustomed to walking, may
e provided with donkeys, at three pauls each,
to carry them from the Belvedere to Tuscoc
lum, and thence to Frascati.
S
258 ENtiRONS OF ROMS--PALfefeTftlNA. [eh. Vltl.
- food Gabii, built by the Alban Temple qf Fbfimis seeing to hS\fe
King:s. consisted of Three StoH^: the
Palestrina, the ancient i'rePTt&sfe, Lowest \ivas provided i^ith an im*
exhibits objects particularly inter* mense ^eservoit fof tbatef; in
eslintr to antiquaiies, its Cyclo- which, perhaps, the victims wer^
pian Walls ^ those built by Sylla, purified: it still exists in Prince
and Adrian, and remains of A barberini's Garden, and is nearly
celebrated Temple, dedicated to peifecl*. The Second St oiy con-
Pbrtune, and one of the most tained the Mdidula tf Fof-tuha
magnificent Edifices of former Primigenia; and the Third that
ages, with respect to situatioUi of Fortuna PrdeneBiihd ': probably
size, and architectural splendour, the goddess was represented in thfe
It was placed above the Town, former character wilh a youtag
on the side of a mountain' cut Jupiter ahd Juno in her arms;
into terraces, iand crowned by ah ^nd in the latter character with
Arx, or Citadel, encompassed with the Sortes, There i^ere four Ave-
Cyclopian Wdlls nine Roman pal- hues to the Temple ; one, oh th©
tali in breadth. Praeneste is sup- Arches of the Street called Ari-
posed to have existed previous to cioni ; and another (corresponding
the Trojan war : but by whom its to it) was opposite Prince Ba-r-
celebrated Temple was originally berini's Garden: these led to th^
built, seems uncertain. Sylla, after Lowest Story. The third Avenu^
having taken the Town, and de- \vas near the Porta del Sofe ; aiiA
feated young Marius, assumed the the fourth, oh the opposite* sid^,
name of Felix, (Fortunate,) re- above the Porta S.Martino. Hiesii
stored and augmented the Temple, last-named entries fed up to, ana
and added to the nymber of its united in, that part where the
priests. Adrian, likewise consi- modern Piazza is situated; and
dering himself as a Favom-ite of this PiazZa was the Court' of th6
Fortune, restored and embellished lower Tehiple, now the Seihiniariio.
her Temple: and after the de- Two Streets, which slanted up th6
struction of Praeneste, . in 1432, hill, led to the higheir Temple, and
the modern Town of Palestrina were likewise the. Avenues to %.
gradually rose, not on the Site Portico supported by Coluhmi^
of Praeneste, but on that of its and now called Via di Colonnara.
Temple. Specimens of AdriarC'B Remains of the Columns may
Wall present themselves to view ^till be traced. The highel- Tem-
on the approach to Palestrina: pie stood in a spacious Court,
above these, are well preserved now occupied by the Bartrerini
remains of SylkCs Wall; and just Palace; where the celebrated Mo^
within the Town, and likewise at saic Pavement Which Originally tjr-
the commencement of the ascent namented the Tribunia, of the lovvet*
leading toward the Citadel, are Temple, (now the Seteinario,) h^h
• remains of Cyclopian Walls. I'he recentiy been placed*. ACotirt
(/) These Walls, composed of smooth an-
gular stones, skilfally joined together, withotft
the aid of cement, are,1>y some writer?, attri-
buted to Ihe Pelasgi : but, be this as it may, they
are evidently the most ancient kind of stone-
work used for surrounding towns and citadels
of Italy and Magna Graepia. Why they are
called Cyclopian seems doubtful; perhaps
from xux\tMj to surround.
(p) Under the lowest Terrace are remainb
of, nine Piacinse. ,
(A) A description of thi? Mosaic has been
already given, u the account of the Bracciano<
Palace at Rolme. (Sm pti^re 239, Chap, VII.)
Pliny, L. 36, c. 25, nientioas, that a Mosaic
iPavementVas placed, by dylla, in the Tehf-
})le of Fortune at Pratneste : but it does not
ollow that this was the identical Pavement;
becaus-e others, representing the fablfe of
iCuropa, &c. have been found here. Valerffas
Hermaiscus made additions to the Temple df
Fortune ; and Lomivden thinks he might hayfe
ornamented it with the Mosaic iti uuestiutt^
wishing to preserve a tnemorial ot Kgyp^,
thrDagh Which ietnmtry fate traVeltea witk
Adrian.
Ch. Tin.] ENVIRONS OF ROME— ALBANO. Mt
»
ft4io«nin?totheSeminurio«xhibitf furnishes good wine, pif^Miui^
remains of stately Columns, said chickens, eggs, coflfee, and tniiy.
to have been adorned with Capi* The Cicerone (by name Vmcenao)
tals cut into foliages different from is very intettigent ; and Travelkn
any known order of Architecture : who didike walking may pn>cura
and adjoining to this Court in an donkeys,
apartment filled with wine-caaks,
are remains of a Tribuna, with albano,
three Niches for statues ; and, at The dtstaaee from Rome to Al^
each end of the apartment, remains bano is fourteen .Romas vUes ]
of what seem to ha;re been Altu*s. and the road, geaes«lly spealcios^
The shape of this lower Temple excellent. The objects most hi*
was apparently square, and its teresting in this road have been
hei^t stupendous. Some parts Klready deseribed, under the ww
of the Walls, belonging to the tiele " Porta S. Giovaaiu ;*' eai^
first and seoond Terrace of these cept a S^ulchral Monument (OQ
Temples, display specimens, quite the }eft side of the Vda^Appiu, and
perfect, of ancient Roman stone- veipr near the Gate of AlbanoO
work, csdledC^pfMtitcer^sim; other which appears to have been •
parts exhibit specimens of reti^ ma«uficent edifioa, three starita
oulated brick*>work; and others high, imsrusted with marUe, and
resemble the Etruscan walls of each story ornamented with oo««
Fiesole. There are three Terraces, lunms. These ornaments, togt«
on the highest of which stands the ther with the incrustation, have
Church of S«. Rosalia, (the Bu- disappeared ; but tlie belts, or
rial-plaee of the Princes of Pales- ^prwctnoiftontft, of the three storitig
thna,) adorned with an unfinished and the marble bloeks to which
but finely designed Pietk, by Mi- they were fixed, still remain. This
chad Angelo. From this Chmrch Mcmument is supposed to hava
a mule-path leads to the sununit been erected by Ponqpnr, to inN
of the Hill, where stood the ArsR, close the a^es of his finst mitp
or Citadel of PrsBneste ; no part Julia, the Daughter of Cosar.
of which remains except its Gate Albano, situated between Caatd
of Entrance, and Cyclopian Walls, Gandolfo and Aricia, stands cm
still in high preservation: within the Site of Pompey*s Villa, named
these Walls stands a modem Vil* Albamtm Pompeii ; and near thi
laj^, whose Church contains a Post-House are oonnderMe r^
Picture by Pietro da Cortona. mains of andant BatJu. VeatigBt
The prospect from the Ditadid of an Amphitheatre^ -a Beeervoir^
is very extensive; and the walk and a Preiorian Camp, ereotod
thither, and back again- to Pales- probably by Domilian, may like«>
trina, may be accomplished with wise be traced here, at the Abbey
ease in an hour and a naif. In the of S. Paul : but the object beat
environs of Palestrina are re- worth notice in this Town is a
mains of an ancient Roman Villa, small Mitseumf belonginj^ to Sig,
near which the Braschi-Antinous Giuseppe Camevali, which con-
was found ; and . a picturesque sists of Sepulchral Monumenti,
Ruin of a Serapeon, supposed to found under a bed of lava in the
have been erected by Adrian; vicinity of Alba Lonsa, the a»-*
together with several other Ruins cient Ca,pital of Latium. The
01 ancient Roman Edifices. shape of each of these Sepulchral
The Inn at Palestrina contains Monuments is that of a Vase ;
four small bed-rooms with tole^ and within each of tha Va««ui was.
rably clean beds ; and likewise Ibimd a sma^ -Cinerary Um ^^
8 2
260
ENVIRONS OF ROME— ALBANO. [Ch. VIII.
terra-cotia, containing ashes and
bones, and made, as it is conjec-
tured; in the precise shape of the
Huts of the Aborigines of the
spot*. Each Cinerary Urn ex-
is carried above a mile under the
Hill of Albano to the Plain ; and
measures in breadth between five
and six palmi, and in height from
nine to ten palmi. It appears
hibits Unknown Characters ; and that, after tracing the line of this
^ese Sepulchral Monuments like- Canal above ground, pits were
wise have Doors with curious sunk at certain distances froni
Fastenings. The Cinerary Urn each' other; by which means se-
was pla^d in the centre of each veral labourers were let down, and
Monument, and encircled with enabled to work at the same time ;
small terra-coita Vessels ; (one to so that the Canal was completed
hold the sop for Cerberiis, others in the course of one year, (that of
for the purifying water, wine, oil, Rome 335.) Pits of a similar de-
bread, incense, &c.) a Lamp, like scription seem to have accelerated
l^ose of pottery now used in cot- Camillus's admission into the Cita-
tag^s ; a Stile passed through a dcd of Veii. The entry to the Canal
Canceller ; Knives and a Lance, from the Lake, and its issue in the
After seeing this Museum, Tra- Plain, are wonderful specimens of
vellers, who have three hours to the solidity of Etruscan architec-
spare, should proceed, through a tiu'e ; and the interior part of this
beautiful and shady path, to the ancient Funnel seems perfect as
Hill which conimands the Logo- when first completed. Another
Castello, or Lake of Albano, the path, to the lett of Castel-Gan-
crater of an extinct volcapo, near dolfo, leads back to Albano, and
six miles in circumference, and the Ilexes which shade this walk
famous for particularly lai^ and are some of the largest in Italy ".
well-flavoured Eels. Castel-Gan' Outside of the Gate of Albano,
dolfo stAnds on the top of the Hill; leading to Aricia, is an ancient
and a beautiful walk leads down Tomb, on the left, called thai of
to the Lake, whose banks exhibit the Curiatii^; though there does
two Grottoes, or Nymph<Ba, sup- not seem to be any ground for this
posed to have been made by Do- assertion, as monuments were
mitian K The depth of this Lake erected to their memory near the
near Palazzola, the Site of Alba Fbssce Cluilice, where they fell.
Longa\ is computed to be four The Tomb in question consists of
hundred and eighty feet, and its a lofty Square Basq, on which are
subterranean Canal, or Outlet, placed five round Pyramids, one
esJled ^ Emissario, iA one of the being hi the centre, and one on
most extraordinary works of the each of the square comers. Two
ancient Romans ; and was made of these Pyramids are entire, and
during the siege of Veii, in obe- the others, though defaced, still
dience to the Delphic Oracle. It visible. This Tomb appears to be
and the Cicerone at the TImissario two pauls*
if he find lights.
The best Inn at Albano, (The Europa,^
furnishes good dinners, wholesome wine, and
tolerable beds, at reasonable prices.
• (a) lAry (lab. i.) speaks thns, of the Ho-
ratii and Curiatii. '* Their Tombs still exist
in the respective places where each combatant
perished. The Sepulchres of the two Rq.
mans are on the Alban side of the field, close
together; those of the three Curiatii nearer
the Roman side, and at a short distance from
each other."
(t) The Urns are shaped hy hand, instead
of Deing cast in a mould, like Grecian rases.
(k} ^mitian, before he snoceeded to the
Empire, resided chiefly at Albano.
(I) Dionysius of Halicamassus says that
Alba Longa was built between a mountain
. and a lake, which served instead of walls. If
we may credit Virgil, Ascanius founded this
City on the spot where JEneas discovered a
white Sow with thirty Pigs.
(m) Persons who do not choose to walk,
may hire a donkey for three pauls, including
hMonamano to the man who leads it. The
Albano Qicerone expocts four or five pauls ;
Ch. VIIL] ENVIRONS OF ROME— OSTIA. 261
very ancient; and somewhat re- for going, bieing five pauls, and
sembles that of Porsena, at Chi- the same for returning,
sium, described by Pliny.
Beyond this Tomb, on the way . ostia.
to Aricia, is a remarkable part of The distance from' Rome to Os-
the Via-Apfna, consisting of a tia, (anciently Ostium,) is about
long and vast Mole, carried across sixteen Roman mUes ; and the
the Valley ofAricia, to facilitate the price commonly charged for an
passage ; arches being constructed, open carriage, with six places and
at certain distances, to discharge three horses; to go and return, is
the water liable to collect there ; five scudi, buonamano not in«
for the fertile Valley of Aricia was, elusive. By setting out early, this
in times past, a Lake. excursion may be accomplished
Not far distant Irom Albano, on in one day : but, as McU:' aria pre-
the MonS'Albanus, now Monte- vails dreadfully at Ostia, it should
Cavo, stood the Temple of Ju- be visited in cold weather ; and
piter Latialis, erected by Tarqui- persons unaccustomed to this pes-
nius Superbus, according to Dio- tiferous air, ou^ht not to encoun-
nvsius of Halicarnassus, as a ter it, without drinking a glass of
pla^e of worship common to the strong wine. The time occupied
Romans and their allies ; where in going from Rome to Ostia is
they assembled annually to offer about Uu-ee hours and a half;
sacrifices ; and where Tarquin in- and, in returning, about four
stituted the Ferice Latirue. On hours. The Road is good; and
this spot, likewise, Roman Gene- lies on a gentle descent parallel
rals, who were refused the honour with the Tiber ; the sinuosities of
of the Great Triumph in Rome, which river are, on one spot, veiy
had the Lesser Triumph, called an picturesque. The country near
Ovation. Nothing now remains Ostia is a dreary Marsh, inter-
of this famous Temple; but its spersed with Salt-works •, and a
Site is well ascertained ; and part dead Lake, literally covered with
of-the ancient Road, which led to wild-fowl.
it, is still discoverable. About Travellers who wish to make the
half way up the mountain, to the most of their time, should, on
left of the road, stands a Village arriving at ancient Ostia, (from
called Rocca di Papa, suppos^, which me modem Town is about
by some antiquaries, to be Fabi- a quarter of a mile distant,) get
enses, mentioned by Pliny ; and a out of their carriages, and send
little above this Village is a Plain, them to Castel-Fusano, (about a
called Hannibal*s Camp. mile distant,) where stal^g may
The air, both at Albano and be procured; and where, in a
Aricia, (one mile distant,) is less Casino which belongs to the Chisi
oppressive during summer, though family, persons who bring their
perhaps not more salubrious, than own dinner are allowed to dine,
that of Rome : and the coimtry is paying for the room they occupy,
beautiful ; private lodging-houses fhe Tiber has two mouths ;
may be procured at each place ; and is therefore called, by Virgil,
and. a public carriage goes three '* King of horned floods '.'* Near
times a week, during summer, one of these mouths Ancus Mar-
from Rome to Albano ; the fare, tius founded Ostia ; which was,
«
(o) These Salt-works are mentioned by and subsequently Tiberw, or Tiber, from be-
Livy. coming tbo grave of Tiberinus, an Alban
(jp) It was originally denominated Albnla ; King.— See Lxv. i. o. 9.
Mi ENVIRONS OF R0ME--OSTIA. [Ch. VITt.
In aiuitiit days, so pleasanfly situ* ofitsdo6lr^ Beyond the remain^
ated, that the Romans usually of this Temple is a Circular Edi«
spent part of the year there ; and iice, with niches, and some well*
its widely spread and thickly scat- preserved Paintings/ considering
4trM ruias proYe that it must that <hey are exposed to the ex*
l>Roa have been large and popu* temal air. This edifice is called
kfus. Ihesiteofits Walls, which, LArca di Mercurio; the word
recording to appearance, were Ardii^ being a corruption of Area,
imniKarettlar, ana remains of the In the same mass of building ano«
Towers whidi defended them, may tho* Apartment is discoverable,
stfll be discovered ; although, gene- Further on are four Pedestals with
rally speakine, Ostia is more com- ancient Inscriptions, perfectly le«
pktely «ianoUshed by time, war, gible; one being in honour of
excavations, and time^kihis, than Julk^ the Consort of Septimius
•Inrast any other ancient town of Sevenis : and still ftirther, that is,
Latium. Tlie Theatre likewise still nearer to the mouth of the
nay be traced, by remains of some Tiber, is a Corinthian Capital <£
4i€ the foundations of its Seats; as the h>wer ages, and a building
may the Cdla of a Temple, called eaUed 7br Boveteciana, which com-
tiittt of Jove, but without good mands this branch, of the river ;
•autbaiity. Its walls tre construct* where, according to Virgil, ^Eneas
ed with brick, and nesrty perfect : landed, after his flight from IVoy.
thfty exhibit the best style of an- Although the e»th here has
cient architecture ; and seem to gained considerably on the water,
Imva be«i eased with marble on ^ and several of the woods have
the outside, and also within : and been felled, still the savage wild-
as the reoMans of the Cornice, ness of the countiy, and the aw*
Fkieze, and Areliitrave, resemble, fnl magnificence of its forests of
in beauty of execution, the embei- gigantic maritime stone-pines, (ex-
lishments of TJrajan*8 Fomm, ft tending upward of twenty miles
appears probable that this Temple alfong the coast,) accord well with
was of the age of Trajan. Its m- this description in the ^neid:—
tCrior displays remains of a Cella, -* -njc Trojan, from t>ie main., beheld a Tfood.
«nd^ which is a Penelrcde, or which, thick with shacks and dusky homur,
jtoees^ now fi^ with earth. Betv^^he trees (he Tiber took hU course.
The vestibule of this Temple with whirlpools dimpled ; aad with dowB>
seems to have been formed by six ^ J?"^^*!?* a ^ v ♦ i, k-
T\T J , ^^^ ' - ., ^ . v • That drove the Mind alonjr, he took bis way,
BQlta columns or tne I^Onntnian And roiled his yellow Wllows to the «ea.
order : fit^gments of which may be lAfaout ht«, and abore, and round the wood,
■' -» -•- Ai__ ~i^u.j4_, VKa ^^ ^'^<*'* **"** hauBt the borders of hi« flood,
dlSCOVeren m Uie Vicmity. l ne y^y^^ ,,athpd ^Wthin, or basked upon hU »ide.-
pavement of the KdlflCe waS^alfO T« tunefsl s«&g8 their narrow threats ap-
aiitioo, mixed with Nunttdisn mar- rn. ??**^'. • a *^ • e ^ *^ -
j-1 ITU. A A ^-.1-^ - -J- The Captain gives command ; the joyful tram
"We. ine statue Ot tlia presiding Glides throngfh the gloomy 8ha*e, and lea?es
dsTinity stood on a toftypede^al, the maU."
similar to those in the lemple of Adjoining to Tor Bovacciana
Venus and Rome : the interior of is a green field, in a semi-circular
ilie Building likewise contained six shape, which probably was the an-
'Nidies for other* statues ; and sit eient Port ; though the spot so
there is no appearance of windows, denominated is nearer to modem
]Hriiaps it was lighted by means Ostia, and opposite to tiie Cella ai
(9) The magnificent columns, and other Rains still seen at Ostia is a block of African
fft mtt t maiMM. whiah ««li»Uish tha Fa. warhlcaiKMeea feet sax uiehMloacJMrftat
iHWBia»chi ftt JUuar, ass aaid to hxm baaa tm iachae wide, aod two feet deep,
takea fmm this T«ea9^; aad ^^ '^
CfeYH?.] ENVmjJN!? OP;ROME. ;f»
t)i« TomplQ fliuppo^ed ta have, hwsot pUcQ. which affords nQ accommo*
4edioaied to Jove. Contiguous tq aation for Travellers ; neither doe^
Tor Bovacmna is a Ferry to thei it usually contain more than aii
fyolaSaoTQ^ a flat square piece of hundred inhabitants during winter.
)ands about half a league broad, and in summer not a quarter
which projects into the sea between part of that number : though lately
Ostia and Porto ; and was proba* the extension of the Saltrv^orks
b}y oaUed Sacra, because festivals has increased the residents at Os^
in honour of Castor and Pollux tia ; but they all look cadaverous ;
w«re eelebrated here. In order to and a country once teeming with
see the remains of the Harbour healthful inhabitants of the hu-
made by Cl(mdiu9, and the ruins paan species, is now occupied by
e/" the Town of Porto, built by immense herds of buffaloes, vast
Trajan, and anciently denominated flocks of wild-fowl, wild-boars,
Portus, it is necessary to cross the deer, and, in the forests, wolves.
Jeola Ba^rOt toward the western
mouth of ths Tiber, called Fiumi- qiiar^ctbr of thb modermt
einpi by which mouth vessels bomans.
going to Rome now enter the liver.
Here was the Claudian Harbour, Taken collectively, the Romans,
and the Light-hous^ resembling like the Italians in general, are en-
the famous Pharos, at Alexandria, dowed with native elegance of mind
and buHt upon the wreck of a and manners, clear and quick per-
huge vessel which had been em- caption, and an innate love for the
ployed, by Caligula, in transport- Arts. They neither possess the
mg an immense obeHsk from Egypt mildness of the Tuscans, nor the
to Rome. Trajan added an trite' good-humoured buffoonery of the
i^or i?(M«», now denominated Zog-o Neapolitans; but are more digr
Trajano ; in which rcni^inis of Mi- nified, more energetic, displajring a
gazines and Docks are still disco- higher sense of honour, and feeling
verable ; its form is a hexagon : apparently a deeper reverence for
but the once celebrated Claudian religion, than any of their neigh-
Hj^rbour is now a Pool of Stag- hours, the Lucchesi excepted. Their
iiant Water; and the Town of pre-eminence in works of art is
Portus a Mass of Ruins ; among well known.: and during modem
which nothin^g can be distinguish- times that intellectual f^e, which
ed but its Circumference and its gave them the dominion of the
Aqueduet. world in former ages, has been
The walk back from Portus to discov^able in their satires, paint-
the P«rry, and thence to the Chigt^ ings, and sculpture. The Roman
Casino, is a long one : and persons Nobles seldom trouble themselves
jarful pf encountering fatigue, to attain profound erudition ; but
should send their horses to b^ usually possess • accomplishments
baited at modem Ostia, instead of united with correct taste ; and are
\\ke Ch^gi-Gf^sino ; where the mag- invariably polite and courteous to
nificent naaritime stone-pines, ami Foreigners. Gentlemen who be-
ftanie^ganticAmphor9e,takenfrom long to the Church and Law have,
J^aurentun^, alone merit notice. generally speaking, a considerably
iWoii^rw 0«<ea is a dirty, wretched portion of classical knowledge".
(«) Considerablfi disgrace has hean attacliied was pTomalgated, toward the close of the ele*
to the Italiaa character ia coasetmence of the ventb century, husbands of rank and fortune,
faubiw fif Ovgijibi^^^S'^j i^'^ppcisedj hj modern wh^ retool vea to enlist und$r the standard ol
£ciyM«^4in^^i t$MV|t tajiten pl9«f ai>out t^ t^ ^!^ were compelled, hy the turbulence.
imm»mmik ^ ^ ^W<?ea|ji iantur*; ^ tU ti©e», to .chbojje, djyang their absence
\>ut the iSiot u, dukt whoa tha fi^ &wm smm&hf' ^p^^ssm m ^mf 9^^ mA
264
NAPLES.
[Cb: IX;
Tradesmen of the first class sddom and respectable German : but, not--
impose on foreigners : but the po-* withstanding these advantages, the
pmace are frequently prone to ex- lover received a rude and positive
action, passionate, and sometimes refusal from the mother of the^il.
revengeful: they likewise retain The English |:entleman, surprised
much of their former haughty cha- at this behaviour, a^ked the mo*'
racter ; and the inhabitants of ther why she acted so impru-
Trastevere, said to descend from dently ? — " Your daughter (conti-
the ancient Romans, are not only nued he) is wholly unprovided for;
brave to ferocity, but so proud of surely, then, you ought to rejorce
their ancestors, that nothing can in an opportunity of uniting her to
induce them to match with a per- a rich and worthy man/' " Re-
son who does not boast the same joice in uniting her to a Foreigner
ori^n ; as the following anecdote — a Barbarian f" (exclaimed the
evinces. An English gentleman woman.) "No : — and were my
resided in the house of one of these daughter capable of cherishing so
Trasteverini, a barber by trade, and disgraceful an idea, I should not
wretchedly poor, when his daugh- scruple Jto plunge a dagger into h^
ter was addressed by a weaSby heart."
Chapter IX.
NAPLES.
Country between Rome and Naples— Genzano—Velletri — ^Pontine Manbes— Tenacina — Fondf
-^Itri — Cenotapb of Cicero — Mola— GaSta — ^Mihtumn— Garigliano — S. Agata — Capoa—
Naples — Situation of tbat city — Bay — Ancient Ligbt-boases — Size and population of
Naples— Villa Reale— Stadii Publici— Palazzo Reale — Cbiesa di S. Ferdinando— Castel
Nuovo — CasteUo del Uovo — Cbiese di S». Maria del Parto— di S*. Brigida— di S. GMvann»
de* Fiorentini— di 1' Inooronatar— della Pietk de* Torchini — di S*. Maria Nuova — di Monte-
Oil veto— di Gesii Nuovo— di S». Cbiara—
m enme*
Ch. IX.] • GENZANO— PONTINE MARSHES.. 2d5
handsome Church. Four miles The Albergo Nuovo is the best
hence is Genzano, anciently called Inn at Velletri : and here TVavel-
C^fi/Atarat<m, and pleasantly placed lers, likely to require good-vrater
near the Lake of Nemi, in a coun- on the Pontine Marshes, should
try which produces good wine, provide themselves with it.
Tne margin of the Iiake of Nemi, Nine miles from Velletri, though
originally denominated Speculum not in the high-road, lies Cora,
Diana?, was, according to Strabo, already mentioned. From Velletri
adorned with a celebrated Temple, to Torre de" tre Pontic on the
dedicated to Diana; from which Pontine Marshes, the country is
circumstance, perhaps, Genzano pretty ; and on a height, not very
derived its ancient name: and as distant from the road, stancfs
this Town is close to the Lake, Pipemo, anciently Privemum, a
which seems to have been the Volscian City*,
mouth of a long-extinct volcano, Between Tre Ponti (anciently
and merits observation. Travellers Tripontium) and Terracina lie the
would do well, in fine weather, to Pontine Marshes, {Palus Pompti"
stop at an Avenue of Trees on the na,) computed to be about twenty-
left, near the entrance to the Town, four English miles in length, and
walking through the Avenue to a varying from six to twelve miles
Villa which overlooks the Lake; in breadth. Appius Claudius seems
and thence descending to it^ mar- to have been the first person who
gin. This may be done in less than undertook to drain them : Cethe-
half an hour; and from the Villa gus and Csesar continued the
to the Post-House at Genzano is work ; which, during the middle
not a five minutes* walk. The ages, was repaired by Coecilius
Lake is small, but picturesque ; Becius, at the command of Theo-
and the Town of Nemi, on the op- doric. Boniface VIII was the
posite side to Genzano, is a great first Pope who began to drain
embellishment to the landscape, these noxious swamps. Martin V,
The Festival of Flora, which takes before his accession to the Ponti-
place during the month of June; fical Chair, was employed to carry
at Genzano, merits notice ; the on the business ; and succeeded
ground, at this festival, being co- wonderiully, by making a Canal,
vered, for a considerable extent, called Rio-Martino. The Princes
with a beautiful Mosaic- work of of the House of Medicis, and, after
Flowers ; many of which are ga- them, Sixtus V, made new Canals :
thered several weeks before ; and succeeding Popes followed a simi-
yet so exquisitely preserved as to lar plan ; till, at length, Pius VI
appear umaded. In this neigh- nearly accomplished this benevo-
bourhood is Pratica, the ancient lent work ; forming on the foun-
Lavinium; and at a short distance dations of the Via-Appia, which
beyond Genzano, proudly situated were long hidden under water, a
on a commanding eminence, stands road justly esteemed one of the
Civitd-della-Vigna, the ancient best in Europe ; and draining the
Lanuvium, Six miles beyond Gen- swamps so judiciously as to render
zano is Velletri, once a considera- . them capable of being cultivated,
ble town belonging to the Volsci, French Engineers pursued the
and celebrated lor being the coun- same wise measures ; and Pius .
try of Augustus, whose family re- VII put nearly the finishing stroke
sided here ; though it is supposed to this Herculean labour ; which
that he was bom at Rome. has so essentially purified a tract
(a) There is a poet-road from Velletri to nione, called by S. V%v\,Tre$ Tahentai):
Sermonetta (the spot, according to some opi- Case-Nvove, Piperno, Maruti, and Terracina.
f«« ireRRACINA-^FONDl. - [Ck.lS.
0f eoiiatrf, whaae gales, in former Temple detlicated to ApoUow Th«
timet, wer^ fraught with death, Portico of this Chuyeh contains ft
that but little danger (compara-p Bareophagus. with an Inseription
tively speaking) is to be appre-t in honour of Theodoric, first Kinj;
bended mm traveUing through it of Italy; and the Baldaochino ii
BOW, exeept during the months of supported by four Corinthian Co-
July and August, and the com- lumns of Parian marble, taken
mencement of September. from the Temple of Apollo ; com
It is, nevertheless, advisable for siderable remains of which mav
Travellers in general, and particu- still be traced, neajr the CathedraL
larly Invalids, neither to cross the On the brow of a lofty Hill above
Pontine Marshes with an empty the Cathedral are ruins called by
stomach, nor till full half an hour some persons Theodoric9 Palace,
after the sun has risen. The dew and by others, who judge from
which immediately precedes sunset Virgil's deseripUon, the Tempk ^
should Ukewise be avcHded ; and Jupiter Anxur t but, be this as it
the inclination to sleep, which al-* may, the only vestiges diseemibla
most every Traveller feels, while now. are the Subterranetm Part,
breathii^ this air, should be etre- with a hw equare building abovB
nuausly resisted: and persons it^ The Temple of Jupiter Anxur
eompelled to cross, previous to wa4 erected by order of the Consul
sunrise, or just before sunset, Posthumius, after the designs «f
should be provided with a little Vitruvius Pollio. On the way to
strong punch, or powerful wine, this spot stand the ctneient Walle
and drink it on approaching this ^Anxur^, remaine of Reeervoire,
district. Tombs, ^ ; and here likewise is
At one of the western extre- a munificent view of Monter
raities of the Pontine Marshes is Circello, and tlie Bay of Naptei^
the mouth of the river Astura; The Inn at Tenrfteina^ stands bel-
aud, beyond. that. Capo d'Anzio, yond the Town, and near lA^ no ?
the ancient Antium : at the other aent Port, made by Antoninus
western extremity rises Monte- jpius ; which, tliough now ehoke4
Ciredlo, the Headland of Clrcae- up with mud, is w^ worth notice,
um, immortalized by Homer ; and An endless variety of beautifvd
beyond the Margies, in a beau* lowers and shrubs adorn the roekt
tiful situation, stands Tep'odna, beyond Terraeina ; between which
the approach to which is 'partieu- Town and a building called Torre
larly fine: it was originally built de' Confini, the ros^ passes near
by the Volsci, and calted by them a pestiferous LM^e of saJt-water*
Anxur ; but tiie Greeks after- Torre de' Confini divides the Pft^
waxds called it Traxina ; whence trimony of 8. Petof from the King*
eomes the modem name of Ter- dom of Nafdes; and fiv« miJif
racina. Here are considerable lieyond the entranoe to the Neapo-?
remains of antiquity ; aad per- litan Tenritories is F^ndi^ a small
sons who have two leisure hours Town on the Via-Appia, which
should inquire for the Cicerone constitutes its principal street; a
always in attendance at the Inn, . once belonged to the Aurunei« Mk
and accompanied by him visit the people of Latium ; and« in thf
Cathedral, supposed to have been year 1634, sufi'ered cruelly in conv
bailt on, or near, the Site of a sequexiee of an attempt made* one
(6) Amti^ovrief Msert, tbftt tbt raiiw 9f (c) Wh«D %!»» MMter $i thv Iiw is absmt,
Theodoric'ttpaiftce, and the Temple of Jupiter which frequentl/ ocean during the pre^a-
^Usur. jvajr fa»t)» Up tr«M4 ci| 4m« ^iHg^t ^me # MifWHh tit0 wmtU» «fP Uliminl
-^ — Ts0«sis4. miumm^
Ch-IX.] MOLA— GAETA— MINTURN^. ' fsf
n^U by HariftdeB Barbarossa lo but probably that ViUa was moit
a«i2e the beautiful Julia Gonzaga, distant from the sea. and near the
Countess of Fondi, with a view of Cenotaph of Cicero. Mola com-
presenting her to the Grand Sig- mands a fine view of Gaeta, found-*
aior, Julia, however, being roused ed, according to Strabo, by a
irom sleep by the clamours of her Colony from Samos, who called it
people at the approach of the Caieta, in consequence of its con-
Turks, s|^'ang from her bed, leap- cave shore : but Virsril says, it was
«d out ot window, and escaped to named Caieta by i^neas, in ho-
the neighbouring mountains : while nour of his Nurse, who died on
Barbarossa, being thus disappoint- this spot, B.C. 1183. Travellers
ed of his prize, revenged himself who have leisure would do well to
\jy pUiagmg and destroying the employ a few hours in seeing
Town, and carrying many of its Gaeta ; which contains ten thou-
inhabitants into slavery. Consi- sand inhabitants, together with
derable remains of Cyelojaan Walls some Antiquities ; and is only five
may be seen at FondL Hie air miles distant from Mola. The
here is unwholesome, owing to Port of Gaeta was either con-
the above-named Lake. structed, or repaii^, by Antoni-
Eight miles from Fondi stands nus Pius:* and on the summit of a
Jtri, a large village also built on Hill, above liie Town, is a Build-
the Via-Ajppia, in a country ing denominated Torre (fOr/omfe;
abounding with vines, figs, and and supposed to be the Mausoleum
ientisks, which last produce gum- of Munatius Plancus, the Founder
mastic. Here are remains of a of Lyons« The Castle of Gaeta,
Cyclopian Tower. On the right* which is very strong, was erected
about a quarter of a mile from about the year 1440, by Alphonso
Mola, is an andent Edifice, in of Arragon ; and the Walls of the
^od preservation, supposed to be. Town were built by Charles V.
Md Cenoktph of Cicero^ placed on The Cappella della Croce, belonff*
the spot where he was murdered, ing to tne Convento della Trinita*
while endeavouring to escape from in this Town, merits notice, on ac-
his enemiea. Tms Cenotaph, a count of its situation. But to re-
fttaltely memorial of the great and turn to the hi^-road. Six miles
patriotic Orator in commemoration from Mola, are considerable re-
of whom it was raised, consisted maims of an Aqueduct, a Theatre^
of three stories ; one of which had <$*<?. ^; which probably belonged to
windows. The inside is circular ; the ancieht Town of Mintumcc :
and has in its centre a Column and close to these ruins flows the
extending from the bottom to the Gaii^liano, anciently the Ldria;
top of the Edifice. Mola, the an- and, m tbrmer times, the boundary
cient Formica, eight miles from of Latium; which is now called
Itri, is approached by a road com- the Campagna di Roma *. A
manding beautiful sceneiy ; and marsh in this neighbourhood was
contains an Hotel called La Villa the ^ot to which Marius fled,
di Cicerone, which is large, well when he fell into the power of the
furnished, charmingly situated, and Magistrates of Minturnae. Cross-
particularly comtortable ; and in ing the Garigliano on a bridge of
Its Gai'den are Ruins of what is boats, the road proceeds to S,
denominated VUla Formianumi Agata, pleasantly situated near
(<Q Inorder toobtoiaaTJew oftbeiQteruMr (e) Tke wliolo country between the Liri$
of tbU ll^atre, it is aawmAry to (At oiU of aad ibe ^^trei^ity of CalAbria. appears to have
vour earj-u^. andwftU wuA to ti^eUMll been, during tb»xeif«flfJi«^<'<>'U^AMV«>
parc«ffilMi'uiMi«g. 4imm«h
268 CAPUA. [Ch.IX.
Sessa, a small Town, supposed to in the ancient pavement : and this
be the ancient Sinuessa, to which circumstance, added to the want
, there is a beautiful Walk, over a of cleanliness and comfort at the
magnificent Bridge, fi-om the inn Post-house at Capua, (the only
at S. Agata. The Via-Appia Inn that Town contains,) tempts
passed through Sinuessa,* wnere many Travellers to take a' cir-
there are other antiquities. The cuitous route, by going thence,
road from S. Agata to Capua, through Caserta to Naples : as the
sixteen miles distant, traverses additional distance is less than
rich vineyards and corn-fields, four miles, the road excellent, and
The approach to Capua is hand- the. Post-house at Casei-ta a very,
some ; but the modern Town, built tolerable inn. Besides which, per-
on the banks of the Voltumo, sons who go this way have the
anciently Vultumus, and near the advantage of seeing an ancient
Ruins called ancient Capua, ap- Gate, and a small Amphitheatre,
pears, judging by the report of supposed, by antiquaries, to be
Strabo and Florus ', very unlike remains of ancient Capua. The
the latter: as, instead of being one Gate is particularly interesting;
of the most splendid cities of Eu- enough having escaped the ravages
rope, it iis ill-built, dirty, and de- of Time to prove it was a Double
void of any object particularly Entrance, like the Carmental Gate
worth notice, except a considerable at Rome, (already mentioned,) and
number of fine columns which ornamented with statues of protect-
adom its Cathedral, and were ing deities, the Niches for which are
found among the Ruins called still visible. The Amphitheatre is
ancient Capua. The direct road close to the road ; and the exterior
from Capua to Naples, a distance Wall, the colossal Busts on the
of about sixteen miles, is one con- key-stones of the arches, the three
tinued garden, but affords no view . Corridors, the four principal En-
of the Bay, and scarce any of the trances, the Declivity for the Seats,
Cityff. the Staircases, and Arena, are all
The Via- Appia is usually kept in discoverable. Admitting these
excellent condition throughout the Ruins to have been part of ancient
Ecclesiastical Territories : but, in Capua, that Town was situated at
some places, between Capua and the distance of about one mile and
Naples, no care has been lately a half from modem Capua, be-
taken to supply the deca^^ed stones, tween the rivers Vultumus and
and fix those which are* loosened, Clanius **.
(/) These Authors describe Capua as par- Capua, to Caserta, the distance is computed
ticularly magnificent. Strabo says, it denved to oe about four Neapolitan miles; and from
its name from Caputs because it was one of Caserta to Naples the distance is precisely
the capitals of the world ; and Florus ranks it thirteen Neapolitan miles,
with Rome and Carthage. The whole road from Rome to Capua is
(g) Between Capua and Naples, in the excellent, except between Albano and Gen-
town of Aversa, there is an excellent Ltmatic zano, where no care has been lately taken to
Asylum, founded by Murat, and called The restore the ancient pavement. The best Inns
Maddalena : this hdilice, which is spacious on this road are — at Albano, The Eurova,
and elegantly clean, has belonging to it a already named, which is very comfortable —
large garden and a handsome church: and at Velletri, The Alherao nuovo. Piazza del
that persons who are sent to this Asylum may Duomo, already named, and likewise very
be pleased with its outward appearance, the comfortable—at Terracina, The Post-house,
grates of every window are shaped and paint- which contains good accommodations, and
ed to represent flower-pots filled with flowers, is improved of late — at Mola, The Cicerone,
The attendance here is particularly good; already named— and at S. Agata, The Post-
and the utmost gentleness and indulgence are house, which is somewhat more comfortable
practised toward the patients ; each of whom than it used to be. Persons who stop to
pays fifteen ducats per month; for which sum dine on the Pontine Marshes find cleaner
they live comfortably. The Maddalena ac- rooms and a better larder at a small Public
commodates five hundred patients. House nearly opposite to the firaschi-ViUa,
(A) From the ruins denominated ancient than at Tre Ponti, or Mesaa, the ancient
Ch. IX.J . NAPLES. 263
Naples, in Italian Napoli, seems, its centre, acts like a gigantic
at first sight, to be universally Mole to break the force of its
considered as the most captivating waves. Nothing can be more mag-
City of Italy ; owing to its im- nificent than me City of Naples
mense number of inhabitants, when viewed from this Bay, whence
magnificent quay, and beautiful all its buildings present themselves
situation: this first impression, to view, rising in the form of
however, sometimes wears oif ; an amphitheatre, till crowned by
insomuch that scientific Travellers the sombre castie of S. Elmo,
frequentiy prefer the splendid ar- Stretching to the Promontory of
chitecture and solemn grandeur of Sorrento, on one side, lie Portici,
Rome to all the animating gaiety Resina, Torre del Greco, Torre
of Naples. This latter City is so del Annunziata, Vesuvius, Pom-
ancient that it seems scarce pos- peii, Castel-a-mare, andVico ; and
sible to pierce through the clouds extending to the Promontory of
of . ok)scuritj[ which envelop its Miseno, on the other, Pozzuoli,
origin : Tradition, however, reports Nisida, and Baia. The Bay of
that it was founded by an Argo- Naples was once much lai'gerthan
naut, thirteen hundred years before it is at present; as appears from
the Christian era ; and afterwards the situation of two ancient Light-
peopled and enriched by Greek houses ; both of which now, are
colonies from Rhodes, Athens, actually in the heart of the City,
and Chalcis. It anciently bore Ruins of the most ancient may
the nsjne of Part?ienope ; an ap- be seen behind the Church of
pellation bestowed by the Phoe- S. Onofrio de' Vecchi ; the other
nicians, in consequence of its stood on the site of Gesi^-Nuovo.
charming situation. Near Par- Naples is nine miles in circumfe-
thenope stood another City, called rence ; and contains al^out four
Paleofiolis, from being so old that hundred and fifty thousand inha-
its origin was ascribed to Her- bitants : but the only parts of this
cules : and when Parthenope was City calculated to arrest the at-
destroyed by her jealous neigh- tention of Foreigners are the
hours, the people of Cumae, and Strada-Toledo, the Largo del Pa-
afterwards rebuilt in obedience to lazzo, Santa Lucia, the Platamone,
an oracle, the new City was called commonly called Chiatamone, and
Neapolis, to distinguish it from the Chiaja, which comprehends a
the old one, called Paleopolis ; till, public Garden, called the Villa
at length, both were joined toge- Keale, and considerably more than
ther by Augustus. Naples, how- half a mile in length; extending,
ever, stUl retained her Grecian on ^the margin of the Bay, from
manners, customs, and language ; the Chiatamone toward the Grotto
and even to the present day re- of Posilipo. This Garden is
tains them, in several parts of her ornamented with luxuriant trees,
territories. This City is built on shrubs, flowers, and modem sta-
the acclivity of a tufo mountain, tues* ; and here once stood the
at . the brink of a Bay near thirty celebrated antique Group, called
miles in diameter (called, by the // Toro Famese, now removed to
ancients, Crater Sinus,) and shel- the Studii : a change equally dis-
tered on the right by the Promon- advantageous to the Garden and
tory of Miseno, and on the left the Group ; which last, being evi-
by that of Sorrento : while the dently calculated to adorn the
lofty Island of Capri, rising in centre of a spacious open couri.
Station, Ad Medias, or Half-way House ; and if such it may be called, is an ancient MiU
where, on each side of the entrance to the Ion, liary, bearing an Inscription.
«70. NAPLES, . [CIlIS:^
• «
loses half its effect in an inclosed First Division qf ike Gallery
grallery. The Basin of a Fountain qf ancient Sculpture* No. 14, a
(found at Psestum, and thence Lustra! Basin trom Pompeii— 15,
transported to Salerno) has been Bust of Ptolemy-Soter — 16, a
recently conveyed to the Villa Warrior seated— 18, a Gladiator I
Reale, and placed there, on the —20, an Equestrian Statue of a
backs of four modem statues of Roman AVarrior— 22, a Sportsman
Lions, as a substitute for the Toro —24, Pyrrhus, from Herculaneum
Famese. — 26, Bust of Marcus Anrelius
Among other objects of interest when young— 26, Group of two
a^ Naples are the following: — Men cutting up a Wild-boar— 27^
Studii Publici, This Univer- Bust of a Female— 28, an Amazon
sity was erected by the Viceroy on Horseback — 30, a wounded
Ferdinando Ruiz de Castro, Count Gladiator!— 32, a Wrestler, from
de Lemos, according to the de- Herculaneimi — 35, a Wrestler,
signs of M. G. Fontana ; and restored as a Gladiator !!— 36, an-^
opened in 1616, by Don Pedro de other Wrestler, restored as a Ghi-
C astro, son and successor to the diator! — 37, a Statue of Tiberiuf
Count. During 1790, Ferdinando! — '38, Bust of GallienusI — 39,
removed the University to the Jove, in /«rra-co^ta, from Pompai!
Convent of GesA-Vecchio ; and — 42, a young Roman Lady, from
converted the Edifice built by the HerculaneumV- 44, Marcus No-
Count de Lemos into a Royal nius Balbus, Proconsul and Patron
Museum; which is now enriched ^of Herculaneum — ^ 45, a dead
with the antiquities found at Min- Amazon-«-47, a Daughter of M,
turnse, ancient Capua, Heroula- N. Balbus, from Herculaneum M
neiun, Pompeii, Stabiee, Nuceria, —49, the Mother of Balbus, from
and Psestum; together with the , Herculaneum^— -52, another of the
collection of Paintings once placed Balbi-famUy ! * — and 54, M. N,
in the Palace of Capo di Monte : Balbus, both from Herculaneum
and this Museum, ta which his —56, a Bust"* — 57, a young Lady,
late Neapolitan Majesty gave the probably one of the Balbi-^family,
name of Borbonico, may now be from Herculaneum — ^68, Bust of
considered as the finest in Europe, a Philosopher— 59, Juno, in terra-
with respect to Grecian antiquities, cotta, from Pompeii !
The Quadrangle contains a Co- Second division of the Gallery.
lossal Statue of Alexander Seve-^ 62, an Equestrian Statue of Marcus
rus— ditto, of Flora— ditto, of the Nonius Balbus, jun., in Greek
Genius of Rome — and ditto, of marble from Hercukmeum »!!!!—
Urania, reported to have been found 63, ditto, of Marcus Nonius Bal-
in Pompey's Theatre at Rome: bus, sen., likewise taken from
and the Staircase is ornamented Herculaneum; but, being found
wilh a Lion in Carrara marble, and in. a mutilated state, it has been
two Statues in Greek marble, taken restored ! ! !— 67, Group of Apollo
from Herculaneum. Surrounding with a Swan!!— 68, Small Status
the Quadrangle are the Drawing of Jupiter-Serapis, found in his
Schools, and the Apartments ap- Teniple at Pozzuolil— 70, Group
propriated to antique Statues, &c. of Ganymede and the Siagle ! -^
■ (i) This Statue was found in the Theatre (m) This Bust is supposed to represeat
at UercalRueam ; and tie hair seems to have Sylla ; it resembles the huperar Napoleon,
been origfinally g;ilt. (n) ftesliag against the Wall, in this palt
, (ft) Likevrise loand in the Thieatre ftt Har- of the Oallery. are beautiful Moeaifi Pictures;
culaneum. one of which, representing Festooas of riband,
'<0 I'robably a dopUeate of the Statue is similar to some of RaphfteVs Arabesqoes.
numbered 47*
dh. It.] NAPLES. tn
77, Bust of fh« tDdi&n BftcchUs— Lustral Vase in a Tetaiple, d«di-
?9, ditto, from Herculaneun^— 81, cated to iEsculapius'— 166, Co*
Small Statue of a Priestess, from lossal Bust of Csesar !— 168, Sta*
Herculaneum— 82j Minerva — 83, tue of ditto— 1 70, Bust of Marcus
Small Statue of a Priestess of Aurelius— 171, Statue of ditto !—
Diana, from tierculaneum-^84, 172, Bust of Adrian— 174, Luciua
Bust of Minerva I — 86, Ceres — VerusI — 177, Colossal Statue of
87, Bust of Minerva, from Hercu- Augustus, seated, from Hercula*
laneum— 92, Apollino, from ditto neum 1—178, Bust of Caracallal
— ^5, StWue of -^sculapius I — 97, —180, Livia, from Pompeii!
Gk*oup of Bacchus and Cupid 1 1 — The open Court, adjoining to the
98^ Group of Venus victorious. Gallery of ancient Sculpture, con-
and Cupid, frx)m ancient Capua I tains various Antiquities ; amons
— 09, Bust of Cyl)ele, from Her- which are several Statues, found
^laneum — 100, Juno!— ^101, Bust in Herculaneum; Com-miUs of
ef Minerva, frt^m Herculaneum— lava, which were Inrought frtmi
1 03, Gr^up of Faunus and the Pompeii ; a Machine fin' bruis^
Infant Bacchus!! -^107, Bust of ing olives, in order to mak«
the Indian Bacchus — 109, BustK>f oil, (also of lava, and brought
Jove^^UO, Diana- Lucifera — 118, from Pompeii,) together with
Minerva!! — 120, Bacchus — 122^ Diotse of creta-<!Otta and terra'
Euterpe. cott^
Third division of the Gallery, Hall ^f Fiora, 208, Colossal
163, a Lustral S&sin, found m Statue of Flora, found in Cara*
the Temple of Isis, at Pompeii ! ~-> calla^s Baths at Rome I ! 1 1 (Ae«
124, Agrippina, the mother of Ne* coirding to some opinions thb Mp/^
ro, seated ^ ! ! ! — 12ft, another Lus- d'-oeuvre of the Gt^ian chisel does
tral Basin, found in the Temple of not represent Flora, bnt Hope, or
Isis, at Pompai ! — 12-7, Bufrt «f one of the Muses.) — 209, the
Kerva— 128, Drusus, from Pom- Torso FamesB, attributed to Phi*-
^ii— 130, the Father of Trajan— dias, and supposed to have repre*
131, Bust of Septimius Severus— > sented Bacchus ! ! !— 210, a Beuso^
132, Antonia the younger — 133, rihevo representim^ Bacchus in-
Bust of Galba — 134, Colossal Bust toxicated! — 211^ Fragment, fron
^ Titus! — 138, Trajan^s Sister*-^ aiKnent Capua, supposed to have
139, Bust of Adnan— 142, Colos^ been a Psyche; and attributed to
feal Bust of Antoninus Pius !— 148> Praxiteles ! ! ! — 214, a. Basso'-ri^
Tiberius— 149, Bust of PupienusI Uevo representing Orpheus, Eu»-
— 150, Bust of Caracalla'— 161, rydice, and Mercury; and tup-
Tiberius— 153, Colossal Statue of posed to be very ancient Grecian'
Claudius seated, from Hercnla- sculpture — 216, a Basso-rilietw
•neum!— 166, Trajan, from Min- from Herculaneum! — 216, Bassi^
turnie)!-^ 168. Bust of Lucinb rilievi, one of which represenls
Verus — 1*69, Statue of ditto!— Scylla, the famous PronM>ntory of
160, Bust of Probue!— 162, Ca- Calabria— 217, ?(W«) of a Boy !—
ligula, from Mhitumfie ! — 1 66, a 218, a Basso-rilievo representing
ftoagnificent porphyry Basin, sm>- Helen, Venu»> Cupid, Paris, aim
|fo^ to have been used as the Suada !
fOt) AHyippiiA seeim to be represented at than the tinest poetrjr.
^he Womeat when told, that her unnatural (/>) It reseinbleK, in shape, the Basin of thp
sou dooms her to death. The mild, pathetic, fountain recently discovered tn the Pnblic
deep despair, expressed throughout the whole Baths at Pompeii: and its size so much snr-
of this charminir Statue, proves that Sculp- passes the uinial dimensions of Lnsttal Basins,*
turt, When csmed to in utmost height of that it more probably beionged to om of tlA
excellence, can move the ptneioBs eren men wioint yobli&B«tl» «( t""
27.2 IJAPLES. [CklX.
Hall of Apollo. 620, d Colossal of Venus Genitrf x / !^^03, Cu-
porphyry Statue of Apollo in his pid, supposed to be an ancient
theatrical dress 1—221, a Lustral Copy of the celebrated Cupid of
Vase ofrossoantico, from Pompeii Praxiteles— 304, Group of Venus
— 222, ditto— 224, Isis — 228 and and Cupid— 306, Group of aChild
229, a Group representing a Phiy- and a Goose, from Pompeii ; sup-
eian Slave and a Tiger — 232,Apol- posed to be the Copy of a cele-
h) ! — 235 and 236, a Group repre- brated Group, in bronze, by a
senting a Phrygian Slave and a Ti- Carthaginian sculpior — 307, the
ger — 238, a Goat, in rosso antico, Marine Venus ! — 314, a Small
from Pompeii — 239, Bust of Mar- Statue of Venus seated, from Pom-
eus Aureliiis! — 241, Bust of An- peii! — 317, Bacchus, in the cha-
nius Verus— 245, Diana of Ephe- racter of an Hermaphrodite I
sus, in oriental alabaster and Hallof Jupiter, 321,3. iMstral
bronze I — 249, a Lustral Basin, Basin, from Herculaneum — 322, a
from Pompeii — 252, Small Statue Herma, from Herculaneum — 323,
of Meleager, in rosso antico — 255 Herma of Euripides, from ditto —
and 256, a Lustral Basin, from 325, Bust of Marius— ^329, Jupi-
Pompeii — 259, Bust of L. Junius ter-Stator seated, from Cuma I —
Brutus, from Herculaneum ! 334, Bust of Marcus Brutus —
Hcdl of the Muses. 264, a large 335, -Herma. of Homer!— 336,
and beautiful Vase of Greek mar- Herma of Socrates,
ble, adorned with Bassi-rilievi, re- Hall of Atlas, 337, Atlas sup-
lative to the Education of Bacchus, porting the Celestial Globe;— 338,
and according to the Inscription and 339, two Lustral Basins, from
it bears, executed by Salpion, an Pompeii I — 342, Bust of Antis-
Athenian sculptor** — 268, Clio, thenes ! — 343, Homer, from Her-
from Herculaneum — 26 9, Small culaneumi — 344, Bust of Ms-
Statue in ^(?rra-co«a, representing chines, from ditto! —345, Bust of
«in Actor masked, and dressed for Periander, from ditto ! — ^346, Bust
the stage, from Pompeii! — 270, of Socrates — 347, Bust of Euripides
Terpischore, from Herculaneum! —348., Bust of Lycurgus— 349,
— 271. Mnemosyne, from ditto! — Sylja, from Herculaneum^351,
272, Apollo seated— 273, Miner- Bust of Solon — 353, Bust of Zeno,
va ! — ^274, Melpomene, from Her- from Herculaneum— 354, Bust of
oilarieum! — 275, Small Statue in Anacreon — 355, a Philosopher,
terra-cotta of an Actress, masked from Herculaneum ! ! — 356, Bust
and dressed for the stage, from of Demosthenes, from ditto— 361;
Pompeii !— 276, Erato, from Her- Bust of Zeno — 362, Statue sup-
cula;rieum — 281, Urania, from posed to represent Niobe — 363,
ditto! — 283, Basso-rilievo, with Bust of Herodotus— 364, Bust of
Seven Female Figures, from Lysias — 365, same subject! — 366,
Herculaneum — 284, Calliope! — Bust of Euripides— 367, Bust of
285, Euterpe !— and 289, Thalia ; Sophocles— 368, Small Statue of
all three from Herculaneum— 230, Cicero, from Herculaneum — 369,
JPolyhjminia ! tides, found in Herculaneum, and
Hallof the Venuses. 295, Adonis, one of the very finest niaster-
from ancient Capua!— 297, Statue pieces of the Grecian chisel!!!!
(9) This Vase (which was found at GaSta, Museo-Borbonico) is supposed to have been
where it served as the Baptismal Font of the originally the Lustral Vase in the Temple of
Cathedral, till .remoTe4 thence, to enrich the Bacchus at Formi».
Cb. IX.] NAPLES* 2^3
—375, Bust of Socrates, from tier- Small Statue of a Faun, from
culaneum. ditto— 481, Small Statue of a Phi-
Hall of Antinous, 378, Anti- losopher seated--4 8 7, Small Statue
nous I ! — 379, Vase ornamented of Venus, found at Pompeii in two
with Bassi-rUievi in the Etruscan pieces, with gilding pn the hair,
style, from Herculaneum! — 381, and the drapery coloured!— 491,
and 382, Candelabra— 383, Herma Small • Statue of a Female, ele-
of Herodotus and Thucydides — gantly draped.
384, a large and splendid Vase— This Grallery of ancient Sculp-
388, a Consul, from Pompeii — 389, ture likewise contains Columns of
Bust of a Vestal ! — 390, Bust sup- precious marbles, found in Hercu-
Sosed to represent Aratus I — 393, laneum, Pompeii, and other parts
iust supposed to represent the In- of Ma^a GU^ia ; and near the
dian Bacchus I — 394,Bust of Sene- open Court adjoining the second
ca — 396, Bust of Cicero, from Her- division of the Gallery, the Statue
culaueum — 397, Statue of Abun- of the Priestess Eumachia, from
dance, from Pompeii — 398, Bust Pompeii, has been recently placed,
of Claudius Marcellus^^99, Bust In the open Court are the Mea-
of Juba the younger— 400, Bust sures of Capacity, found at Pom-
of a laughing Faun-— 4 02, ditto ! — peii; and a smaU perpetual Al-
403, Bust of a Philosopher!— ^04, manach of marble; Corn-mills of
Bust of Vespasian— 405, Colossal lava; a Machine of lava for bruis-
Bust of a young Hercules— 410, ing olives, in order to extract
ditto, of Alexander!— 412, Bust of oil ; together with Diotse, <J^., all
Jupiter, from Pompeii — 414, Co- brought from Pompeii,
lossal Bust of Juno! — 419, ditto! Gallery of the Toro JPhmese,
—425, Bust of L. C. Lentulus— 497, the Toro Farnese. This cele-
426, Bust of Agrippina the elder— brated Group has been already
430, Bust supposed to be the por- mentioned. It was originally
trait of Terence, from Herculaneum brought from Rhodes to Rome ;
—431, Bust of Plato, from Hercu- but removed thence to Naples,
laneum ; unfinished — 435, Bust about the close of the seventeenth
of Varro — 436, a Sibyl! — 437, century. It is supposed to repre-
Bust of Homer ! ! sent Dirce bound, with the hair of
Cabinet, 440, Hermaphrodite- her head, to the horns of a Bull,
Faun ! ! — 441, Group or a Love by Amphion and Zethus, the Sons
and a Dolphin— 442, a Statue at- of Lycus, King of Thebes ; and
tributed to Praxiteles, and called their Mother, Antiope, command-
- Venu8 Callipige, the Rival of ing them to detain the Bull, and
the Venus de' Medici :" there is, set Dirce free. Antiquaries are of
however, an unpleasant expression opinion that this Group was form-
in the countenance of the Venus ed from one solid block of marble,
Callipige, from which the Venus by two Rhodian artists, Apollo-
de* Medici is exempt !! I— 445, nius and Tauriscus, about two
Small Statue of Bacchus, found hundred years before the Christian
in the Temple of Isis at Pompeii — era. It was found, cruelly muti-
446, Venus, from Pompeii — 447, lated, in the Baths of Caracalla,
Small Statue of Ceres, from ditto and restored by Battista Bianchi,
- -455, Small Statue of a Faun, of Milan. The head of the Bull,
from Herculaneum — 457, Small and the upper part of the figure of
Statue of Silenus seated, from Dirce, are modem : the trunks
Herculaneum!— 461, Small Statue alone of the figures of Amphion
of Moschus seated— 473, Bust of a and Zethus (one leg excepted) are
Lady, from Herculaneum— 479, antique ;butthe Statues of Antiope,
T
174 NAPLES. [Cau IX.
and the Youth seated, are nearly larly famous ^-57, and 98, twa
in their original state I ! I— 498, the alabaster Vases, very valuable ou
colossal Hercules of Glycon, found account of the Hiei^l^hicls they
at Rome, in the Baths of Caracal- exhibit. — Third Armotre, 298, a
la, and one of the finest Statues Vase found at Peestum — 307, a
extant : it represents Hercules pre- Vase found at Peestum — 72, Torso,
vious to his deification I !! ! — 499, of an Egyptian Statue charged,
demi-colossal Statue of Tiberius — with Hieroglyphics ! — Fourth Ar*
5 00, Statue of C ommodus. moire. From 3 1 5 , to 4 20, Amulets
Ancient Inscriptions are to be in porcelain of various colours,
placed round the walls of this with Hierogflyphics — 88, a rare and
newly- opened Gallery. valuable Fragment of Papyrus —
Apartment on the ground-floor, 91, a small Egyptian Figure of
containing Egyptian , Etruscan, porcelain, found at Pompeii in the
and Oscian ' Antiquities. Among Temple of I sis — 95, and 99, small
the most interesting of ^6 f^g^rjD^'an Egyptian Idols, fbund at Pompeii.
Antiquities are — 3, a Sepulchral — F^fth Armoire. 120, a Pasto-
Monument of blue granite, orna-* phorus, or Egyptian Piiest, kneel-
mented with twenty-two Figures, mgl^ — Siorth Armoire* 608, a
and charged with Hieroglyphics I well-preserved Vase for perfumes
--^, a Fragment of a Sarcophagus — 613, an ivory BassoriUeto,
of black granite— 7, a Column of found in Egypt — 141, and 142,
Egyptian marble, surmounted by alabaster Vases, containing odori-
an Ibis, with the head and feet of ferous gum. — Seventh Armoire,
bronze, found in Pompeii — 11, a Bronzes. 561, a Sistrum oma-.
small Statue of Isis with gilt dra- mented with the figure of a Cat,.
fery ; found in her Temple at from Pompeii — 564, small Statue
^ompeii, and mentioned by Winck- of Harpocrates — 565, a Sistrum,
elmann! — 16, an Isiaic Table, also from Pompeii -— 557, Statue of
found in the Temple of Isis at Osiris — 659, Group of Isis and
Pompeii — 17, an Harpocratic Ta- Orus — 565, Statue of Apis— -672,
ble ! — 20, Bust of an Egyptian small Figure of an £g}rptian Priest
Priest, in basalt. — First Armoire, — 583, Statue of Apis, charged
35, Fragment of an alabaster Vase with Hieroglyphics — 605, a Cat—
for preserving odoriferous guni — 615, Isis enthroned with Orus —
38, Fragment of an Harpocratic 617, a Cat and Kittens. — Eighth
Table — 41, Vase of terra-cotta, Armoire. -Bronzes. 62^, en "Egyp^
containing the Mummy of a Bird, tian Priest kneeling -^ 634, an
and found near Memphis. — Second Egyptian Idol, probably Aimbis—
Armoire. Bronzes. 239, Isis and 188, a Column, suimounted by an
Orus — 240, a Sistrum, from Pom- Ibis, with the head and feet of
peii — 246, Idem — 247, Fragment bronze, found in Pompeii,
of the Figure of Harpocrates — This Collection contains well*
262, Harpocrates seated on a preserved Mummies of the human
throne — 254, a square Throne, for species, in painted cases of syca«
an Idol — 259, Statue of Serapis more wood,
seated — 261, a Group of Egyptian Among the most interesting of
Idols — 267, Fragment of a Statue the Etruscan Antiquities are — U
Of Osiris— 269, Statue of Isis~~ a Sacrificial Table, exhibiting Os-
52, an alabaster Vase containing cian Characters, from Hercula-
odoriferous gum, supposed to be neum — 4, a bronze Patera, for
that for which Egypt was particu- libations — 5, a portable bronae
CO T^^ ^^i» ^ people supposed to have assisted Tarnns against iEneas, once inliabited
HercaiaBenm aad Poiiip«u>
Ch.IX.] NAPLS8. • rf§
Altar— 6, a coiicay« Patera k Pompeii) a lea^ Caldron, used by
bronze — 12, a Statue of Minerva, the Ancients m dyeing cloth — 9^
represented as combating against (from Pompeii) Apollo-Pythins I—
the Giants of Phlegra : it was found 1 0,(from Pompeii) another Caldron,
in Herculaneum, with the hair gilt used by dyers — 12, (found near the
r— 21, a Small Statue of Diana, Theatre in Herculaneum) an Ac^ .
likewise found in Hercokneum : it tress, probably a portrait : it haar
was almost entirely gilt; and the glass eyes — 14, (from Hercula-
drapery is much admired! — 23, neum) Bust of a Warrior — 15,
Statue of a Wrestler restored as a (from Herculaneum) a Dancer,
GJadiator ! — 25, Statue of a Gladia- with glass eyes — 16, (from Herou-
tor I it has been restored ; and the laneum) Bust of Ptolemy-Philo-
eountenance resembles that of Me- metor, with glass eyes — 17, (from
leager — ^The three last-named Sta- Herculaneum) Bust of Caius Cse-
tues are noticed by Winckelpaann — sar, ill restored — 1 8, (from Hercu-
29, a^a9M-n7}>f7o found at Nola, laneum) an Actress, with glass
and representing Ulysses in repose eyes — 19, (from Herculaneum>
— ^38, (^roup of Electra and Oestes, Bust of Lepidus ! — ^20, (from Her-
from Herculaneum ! — 5 6, Bust of a culaneum) Bust of Livia — 21,
Youth, in bronze, from Hercula- (from Pompeii) Bust of Tiberius—
neum. This, apartment likewise 22, (from Herculaneum) Statue,
contains Etruscan and Oscian In- -somewhat larger than life, of a
smptions, found in Herculaneum Roman Matron veiled ; supposed
and Pompeii — beautiful Small to have been one of the ornaments
Vases, Lachrymatories, and In- of the Theatre at Herculaneum —
cense Bottles — a Wine- Cup — a 24, (from Herculaneum) Bust of
Vase painted in the Etruscan style, Heraclitus — 26, (from Hercula-
and supposed to represent, on one neum) a Dancer, with glass eyes-—
side, Hylonome, the Favourite 27, (from Herculaneum) Bust of
of the Centaur Cyllarus ; and, on Berenice ! The lips and eyes of
the other, Theseus combating this beautiful Bust appear to have
with a Centaur— a very large Vase been incrusted with silver — 2S,
with black figures on a yellow (from Herculaneum) a Discobulus,
ground; they represent, on one with glass eyes! — 29, (from Her-
side, JEneas carrying Anchises on culaneum) Statue of Piety, some-
his shoulders, Creusa, Achates, ^: what larger than life — 30, (from
and, OB the other side, one of the Herculaneum) a Discobulus, with
Festivals which w«re caDed Nycte- glass wes? — 31, (from Hercula-
lia, and celebrated on Mount Cithae- neum) Bust of Ptolemy- Soter — 32,
ron, in honour of Bacchus. This (from Herculaneum) an Actress-
Vase was found at Nola— another 33, (from Herculaneum) Bust of
Vase, supposed to be Etruscan, with Ptolemy- Philadelphus, with glass
paintings which represent the Story eyes — 34, (from Herculaneum)
of Achilles disguised in female Aerma of Sappho, with glass eyes
attire at the Court of Licomedes. — 35, (from Pompeii) Bust of Tibe-
Apariment, on the ground-floor, rius — 36, (from Herculaneum)
centainifig Bronze SciSpiure. Num- Statue, somewhat larger than life,
bers 3, and 4, Statues of Deer — 5, of a Roman Matron veiled ; sup-
(from Herculaneum) a drunken posed to have been an architec-
Faun, reposing on a skin of wine I tural ornament in the Theatre — 38,
— G, a Horsev being one of the four (from Herculaneum) Herma of
which ornamented the Theatre in Augustus, with the name of the
Herculaneum!! — 7,(fromHercula- artist, Apollonius of Athaas, by
neum) Mercury seated ! ! — 8, (from whom it was executed!— 49, (front -
T 2
276 • NAPLEJSI. tCh.lX.
Naples) oM of the Camillse, in- Base, ornamented with olive-leaves
stituted by Romulus — 41, (from of silver : the whole was found
Herculaneum) Bust of Ptolemy- wrapped up in linen; and marks
Alexander— 43, (from Herculane- of the thread, with which the linen
um) an Actress, with glass eyes — 44, was composed, may still be traced
(from Herculaneum) Bust of Sylla I on parts of this beautiful and ex-
—45, (from Rome) Bust of Com- cellently preserved work — 60, (from
modus ! — 46, (from Rome) Bust of Pompeii) a small Statue of Nero :
Antinous— 47,(fromHerculaneum) the Cuirass, the Car with four
a Statue larger than life, and of that horses, the eyes, and the lips of the*
description with which ancient thea- Statue, are mcrusted with silver —
tres were ornamented: it is called 61, (from Herculaneum) a colossal
Antonia, the Wife of Nero Drusus Statue of Augustus deified I the
— 48, (from Herculaneum) Bust of costume resembles that of Jupiter;
Scipio-Africanus, with Scars of the left, hand is armed with light-
two wounds on the left side of the ning, and the right grasps a sceptre
head I— -49, (from Pompeii) Frag- — 62, (from Herculaneum) Bustr
ment of an Equestrian Statue, supposed to represent Marcellus —
which, judging from the Ring, 63, (from Pompeii) a half-length
with the Letter S, on one of the figure of Diana, in the act of de-
fingers, is supposed to have repre- stroying the Children of Niobe t
sented a Roman Senator — 50, The eyes are of glass ; the left hand
(from Herculaneum) Bust of Lu- which held the bow, and the qxiiver
cius Caesar — 51, (from • Hercula- which was slung at the back of the
neum) a colossal Statue of Nero figure, are destroyed by time — 64,
Drusus, in the costume of a Sacri- (from Herculaneum) Bust of Se-
ficator I ! — 52, (from Herculaneum) neca, peculiarly well preserved, and
Bust, supposed to represent Plato • I finely executed ! ! — 65 , (from Her*
— 53, (from Herculaneum) asleep- culaneum) a colossal Statue of
ing Faun 11—54, (from Hercula- Marcus Calatorius, enveloped m
neum) Bust of Archytas! — 55, the Toga. On one of the fingers
(from Herculaneum) Bust of De- of this Statue is a Ring with the
mocritus — 56, (from Herculaneum) Lituus — 66, (from Herculaneum)
a colossal Statue of T. Claudius Bust of Ptolemy- Apion I — 67,.
Drusus. On the fourth finger of (from Rome) the Infant Hercules-
the left hand of this Statue is a stranj;ling the Serpents sent by-
Rmg, displaying the Lituus, or Juno to devour him 1 1— This seems
Augur*s Staff ; a stick without to be the famous Work, mentioned
knots, and crooked at the end *. — by Pliny as the production of an
57, (from Pompeii) a small Statue eminent Carthaginian Sculptor, or
of Fortune, with Wings, and an a beautiful imitation of that work.
Annulet of gold on the left arm ! — It stands upon a Pedestal supposed
58, (from Pompeii) Apollino, hold- to have been executed in the six-
icg a Lyre with silver strings in teenth century, and representing in
one hand, and the Plectrum in the Basso-rilievo the Labours of Her>
other ! ! This exquisite little Sta- cules — 68, (from Herculaneum) an
tue, the eyes of which are silver, incognito Bust, well preserved —
was found in a private dwelling — 69, (from Herculaneum) a colossal
59, (from Pompeii) a small Group, Statue of Lucius Mammius Maxi-
supposed to represent Bacchus and mus, in the costume of a Consul —
a Faun I These figiures have silver 70, (from the Island of Ponza) the
eyes, and rest upon a semi-circular Mouth of an Impluvium, whid^
(0 According to rome opinions thi» Bu«t (<) See T. Liv. 'Liber I.
rei^ratents Speosippas, the nephew of Plato.
Ch, IX.] NAPLES, in
supplied the Baths of Tiberius : it Otter— 100, (from Herctilaheum)
slill contains water — 71, (from Na- a Little Pig.
pies) colossal Head of a Horse " ! ! Apartments up stairs. On the
72, (from Herculaneum) a Raven Landing-place are Doors leading to
of the natural size; which, judging various Branches of the Museum ;
from the hole in its beak, was pro- one of which, on the left, contains
bably the spout of a fountain — 73, rooms where the Papyri, discovered
(fi^m Herculaneum) a Small Sta- in a Herculaneum Villa, are un-
tue .of Diana in the costume of a rolled. About the year 1753, this
Huntress — 74, (from Herculaneum) library of Papyri was discovered,
a Small Statue representins: one of immediately under what is now the
the Cabiri' — 75, (from Hercula- Garden of the Augustine Monks
neum) a Small Statue of Bacchus ! at Portici : but as the Scrolls of
'■;-77y (from Herculaneum) a beau- Papyri, found in Herculaneum,
tiful little Horse of the Greek were so precisely like charcoal,
form, with a silver Head-stall and that they had been constantly mis-
Bridle — 79, (from Herculaneum) a taken for it, the scrolls in tjuestion
small Statue of Silenus, crowned might have shared the same fate,
with ivy, and caressing a young if the order in which they were
Panther — 80, (from Herculaneum) placed, one above another, had
a small Statue of Alexander the not excited curiosity, and produced
Great, mounted on Bucephalus, an examination, which led to the
whose Trappings are silver! — 81, discovery of Greek and Latin
(from Herculaneum) Silenus, simi- words, written on these supposed
lar to the little Statue numbered pieces of charcoal. The diligence
" 79," except that an Otter is sub- of the excavators was in conse-
stituted for the Panther — 85, (from quence redoubled ; and seven Ink-
Herculaneum) Fortune, in the cos- stands, with a Style-case, all of
tume of Isis ; an interesting little ancient pottery, together with three
Statue, as it displays the attri- small Busts, m bronze, one repre-
butes of Fortune, united with those senting Epicurus, were found in
of the great Goddess of the Egyp- the room with the Papyri ; which,
tians — 87, (from Herculaneum) amounting to one thousand sev^
anolher Small Statue of Fortune hundred and thirty Scrolls, were
resting on a Globe; a position in dejDOsited, by order of Charles II I,
which she is rarely placed by the (then King of Naples,) in the
ancients. Her necklace, and the Royal Museum at Portici ; whence
border of her Peplum are incrusted they were removed to the Museo
with silver ; and the Globe is or- Borbonico ; and notwithstanding
namented with the same metal I — they are so much scorched as to
92, (from Herculaneum) a Small resemble tinder, the Padre Anto-
Equestrian Statue of an Amazon — . nio Piaggio invented a machine
98, (from Herculaneum) a Small capable of separating and unroll-
Group of Silenus mounted on an ing them. Those hitherto un-
(tt) This exquisite Work, according to tradi- said to have smelted the >v'hole of Virgil's
tion, made part of the colossal Statue of a Horse, except the Head in question. It has
Horse, anciently placed before a Temple of nevertheless, been asserted, that this cele-
the Sun, now the Archiepiscopal Palace at brated Head of a Horse was not a component
Naples. The Populace, believing tlie Statue part of a Statue, because it appears to have
to nave been cast by Virgil, and considering teen cast in a mould by itself : but this proves
him as a Magician, entertained such super- nothing : for Winckelmann mentions, what
stions notions of its great efficacy in all dis- late excavations at Pompeii have repeatedly
tempers of horses, that, when any of these proved, that the component parts of^aticient
animals were ill, they were brought from every bronze statues were cast in separate pieces,
part of the kingdom, however distant, to hie and afterwards fa.-«tened together with nails.
led round the Statue : therefore, in order to Tv) Deities supposed to have been worship,
abolish 80 silly and inconvenient a custom, pea first in Fh<£aicia, and subsequently ni
Cardinal Caraffa, Archbishop of Naples, ia Greece.
m Naples; [CIi. ix-
roUed Bre fimr hundred and <ight and a Breviarvt iduch belOB^ed 4o
in number; of which ci^ty-eight the Famese Family; the Uffizm
only are ic^le ; the others being of the Madotma, lUummated by
Fra^BKents verydiffi^ilt to de- Oiulio Clovio, bound in ^Id, and
'Cypher* Two volumes of these deeorated with Basn^-rilievi ! and
VwpfTi have been published; one another Prayer-book, called iM
in the year 1793, andtheotluar in Flora! bolii of which contain
.1809 ; a third is now in prepara- /:hefs-d<mivr€S in Miniature Paint-
tion for the press. The first vo* ing, and were executed for the Far*
Jume contains a work, by Philode- nese Family,
mus, upon Music; the second On the right of ^Landing-place
contains a Fragment of a Latin are Antiquities found in Hepoukt-
Poem, supposed to have been writ- neum, Pompeii, Stabine, Capri, ^,
ten by Rabirius ; and two Books First Room, called the Repo^
(the second, and the eleventh) of sitory for ancient Glass. Thd
Epicurus upon Nature. The third Floor is composed of Ancient Mt>»
volume will contain (among oth^ saics ; and round the room . arfe
matter) the tenth and eleventh shelves, exhibiting Glass, white
Books of Philodemus ; the former and coloured, of almost every
upon (Economy ; the latter upon shape, and for almost eivery pur^
Pride ^. It is conjectured that, of pose, known to the ancient and Ihe
the Manuscripts still remaining to modem world. Here are Bottles
be unrolled, twenty-four are Latin, for wine — Water-jugs — Rummers^
and the rest Greek. not unlike those m present use —
The middle door, on the Land- Cups* — Fruit-plates, several at
2ng-plaee, leads to the Library; which are painted' — Funnels — In-
a magnificent Apartment, the cense-bottles, supposed to have
great Hall being two hundred and been Lachxymatones, till lately
twelve English feet in length, found with odoriterous gums re-
^^ty in width, and eighty-one in maining in them^large Bottles of
height This Library is reputed Medicines, found in an Apothe-
to contain near an hundred and cary's Shop at Pompeii— Neck-
fifty thousand printed Volumes, laees — Cinerary Urns, in two of
and above three thousand Manu- which remains of human bones are
scripts. The collection of Books visible — and several pieces of
jMTnted in the fifteenth century is Plate-glass, found in Pompeii*,
partieularly valuable ; because it Second room, called the Cabinet
comprises those published, during of Gems. The Floor is composed
that period, at Naples, many of of Ancient Mosaics : and here are,
which are unknown to librarians Rings — Necklaces — Ear-rins^-^
in general. Here likewise is a su- Brooches — Chains— and Nets of
perb collection of Books printed ^Id — Leaf-gold, for gilding, found
by Bodoni ; and among the Manu- in Pompeii — Gold Lace without
scripts are the Works of S. Thomas any mixture of silk, found in Her-
Aquinas; the Aminta of Tasso ; culaneum*— a small Deer, made
the Acts of the Apostles, written of gold, and other gold ornaments
in the tenth century ; two Missals, of every description r— a Purse,
(uf) According to the«e Papyri, the Work (y) Someof thefrait-platMinthis M«anim
CHlled ** The (Ecoaomy of Ari»totki" waa am of a eoncaw form, with a w«ll i* th« nid-
inrritten by Theophrasttav. die, probably m«ant to drain the discolved
See Ofieina de* Papiri, descriita dtU Cawo- sbow from loed fruits, which w«r« mneh
vico Andkka de Jaaio. esteemed by the Ancients.
(jr) Pliny meations that, in Nero's time, (x) Amon|[ the glass yessels one was fbvttd
Vases and Cups were made at Alexandria, of ooatainiog Houge, similar to that won M
white traosparent glass, resembling roek present.
crysUl ; and several pieoet of gkus ia this (a) ladiaa Cloth of Gold if now made with*
Uectioa may be so described. oat any ■ixtara of silk.
Oh. IX.] NAFIBS. tn
fofond in the "hand of th« Wife of Dnuia to Melponmie— a FVesco
Marcus Arrius Diomedes, at Pom« from StabilB, supposed to repr»<*
peii — a Sun-dial of bronca incrust* feent a Dealer in Loves, witn a
ed witii silver— silver Bracelets*- Lady buying one of them — ^a Fresco
Rings — Girdle-buckles— Pins, for from Pompeii, representing Dan*
listening the hur — and others, zatrici — ^another, the subject of
iised probablv as laces for bodices which is a Lady at her Toilet —
and buskins^ —a Mirror of metal, another, representing Centaurs —
enameUed, and set in silver* — Sil- two Pictures of Rope-dancers — a
ver Cups — Plates -r- Dishes — Sal- beautiful figure of Peace — ^Ariadne
vers— Vases — a Patera— Spoons, abandoned m ttie Island of Naxos
the bowls of whioh are invariably —an Actor — and Dasdalus and
round and deep-^Biusi'^rilievi-^ Icarus, at Cuma — the celebrated
small Figures reinresenting a wing- Cameo, said to be the most pre^
ed Genius, a Love, ^. — a Serpent cious work of its kind in existence ;
^— a Stag — a lar^ quantity of and representing the Apotheosis of
Colours used in fresco paintings the first Ptolemy on one side, and
with a MuUer of verdis aiitique ; the Head of Medusa on the other,
all found in a Painter's Shop at It was found at Rcmie, in Adrian's
Pompeii — (some of th6 Colours Mausoleum*,
are in a crude state, others appear Third room, coiled th* Bepoii^
to have been properly prepared for tory for Kitchen Furniture of
use '^)'— 'two Loaves of Bread; Bronze, The Floor is composed
stamped upon one of which are the of Mosaics found in the ruins of
following letters, — ^Erisqcran i . . . Stabias ; and in the centre of the
RiSBR... — a Honeycomb — Ghrain room, placed on an ancient Mo-
of various sorts — Fruit — ^Eggs, and saio Table, is a Portable Stove^
other Eatables-^ Pitch — Soap — for heating water. This elegant
Spunges — ^a Bottle containing re- and useful machine was found in
mains of oil— another contaming Herculaneum. Among the col*
dregs of Wine — Flasks for wine, lection are a considerf3)le number
which seem to have been cased of Candelabra — Kettles— Sauce-
with reeds, according to the pre- pans-«-Stew-pans— Baking-pans--^
sent practice — Corks — a Cheese a Gridiron — Frying-pans ; (those
vat — ^Nets for catching Birds and of a small size, for frying eggs.
Fishes — Wearing Apparel of linen being particularly well adapted to
and silk -^ (some of the former their purpose, and similar in shape
was found in the washing vessel) to the egg-pans now made of
— Mosaio Pictures; one of which earthen- ware at Naples)— a great
exhibits a T^panum, or Tamba- variety of elegantly shaped Moulds
rine, like those now used in Magna for pastiy ^ Skimmers — Ladles,
Graecia ^*- four Monochromatic ^., together with a Kitchen-grate
Paintings on marble— a . Fresco, of iron, found in Pompeii. Seve-
from Herculaneum, supposed to ral of the bronze utensils are lined
r^resent iGschylus dictating a and inlaid with silver.
- (ft) Tkesfl Piat, wliioK reaemble bodkins, liair, tnUe te«th, folte efe-bn>wt, Md tf*-
are still used by the peasantry in Magua lashes, pomatum, roag^e, and white paint; and
GrgBcia, for the purpose of lacing Bodices, life, they frequently stained their hair.
(c) The Ancients seem to have been nnao (d) They seem to consist of various earths
qnamted with the art of making glass Mirrors and minerals ; and one of the latter, the pre-
»ke those in present use : Pliny, however, vailing^ colour at Pompeii, precisely resembles
mentions Mirmrs of QreeftOlaas; the first of vermilion. A considerable nnmber of Snail-
Which was made at SiAon. Nero had an shells, and the Sea-shell called Buccinam,
Kfflerald Mirror. The RAOian ladies are said were found in this Shop.
to have carried their mirrors always abont (e) Several Works of the Middle Ages ar»
tkefl { it Uke#iM appears tlMt Ikey wor« false likewise placed ia this n>om.
280 NAPLES. [Ch. IX.
Fourth room, called the Repo-> ashes originaUy found in it The
Htory for Stedyards, Scales, room likewise exhibits two Couches
Weights, Measures, Lamfps, and for the Gods, carried in procession
Canddabra. The Floor is com- at festivals called Lectistemia,
posed of Mosaics from Stablse: and composed of bronze inlaid
and in the centre of the room, with silver — two small portable
placed on an ancient Mosaic. Ta- Seats ; one of which is supposed
ble, is an elegant Candelabrum, to have been a i9f*tf//tiim, and the
from which four Lamps are sus- other for the use of the priests » —
pended: it was found in the ViUa several Tripods, besides that al-
Suburbana, at Pompeii. Among ready mentioned — ^Vessels for in-
this collection are — a Balance for cense — six Vases, each formed
one Scale, and three Steelyards, like a chalice — a considerable num-
lately brought from Pompeii, berof Candelabra, two of them in-
with several Weights ', discovered laid with silver, and shaped like
under the earth in the Custom- pollard-trees : several Lamps are
house there. The Weight attached suspended from the branches — an
to one of the Steelyards displays Haruspical Altar ! — a Wine-cup,
a beautiful Bust of Rome, whose shaped like the head of: a horse —
helmet is decorated by Small Sacrificial Knives — ^a Brush sup-
Figures of Romulus and Remus, posed to have been used in sprink-
and inscribed with the name of ling the purifying water, and like
Augustus — another Weight, found that now used in the Roman Car
in the same place, resembles a tholic Church for a similar pur-
Pig, and is made hollow, in order pose "^--SiBusriflcial Vases of va-
to contain more weights.. Here rious descriptions — Small Idols—
also are, a superb Lamp, lately Protecting Deities — and the Bust
brought from . tiie Tragic Poet*s of Epicurus, which was found in
House in Pompeii — a great variety the Library with the Papyri I
of other Lamps — Candelabra — Sixth room, being a miscella-
Lanterns, (one glazed with horn) — neous Repository. The Floor ex-
Steelyards — Balances — ^Weights, hibits an elegant Mosaic Pavement
elegantly ornamented — Vases — fh)m Herculaneum; and in the
and a Lustral Font inlaid with centre of the room, placed on a
silver. The weights are made of Mosaic Table found at Pompeii,
touchstone, bronze, and lead. is a superb V&se, shaped like a
Fifth room, called the Repository chalice, and inlaid with silver : it
for Sacrificial Vases and other was brought from Herculaneum.
appendages to heathen worship. This room likewise contains a col«
The floor is composed of Mosaics lection of Agricultural Instru-
from Stabise ; and on the Table ments, found in the Villa Subur-
placed in tiie centre of this room bana at Pompeii, and similar to
are — a most beautiful Tripod, those now used in Magna Grsecia.
found in the Temple of Isis, at Here also are iron Stocks, found
Pompeii — several superi) Vases, in the Prison of the Forum Nun-
one especially merits notice— and dinarium at Pompeii — several
an elegant little Brasier, containing pieces of furniture found in an-
(/) The ponnd weight of Magna Gracia held two persons ; and we are told that when
appears to have been, like.the present pound peonle of oonxeqnence, among the Ancients,
weight of Naples, between ten and eleven walked in religious processions, their ser*
oances; and the' ancient Steelyards (if we vants followed them with seats,
may so denominate balances made of bronze) (A) Every ancient Table contained a Vase
resemble those now used at Naples in shape, filled with pnrif^ng water, and placed near
thongh far superior in lieanty. the entrance : with this water every person
Of) BiiellH were privilei^ stools which who came to solemn sacrifices was sprinl^ed.
Cb. IX.] NAPLES, 281
■
cient Baths ; among which are unknown ! — Ink-stands with re-
Scrapers for the skin, and elesrant mains of ink — Styles — Pens of
Essence-bottles — a Child's Toy, cedar — a Case for Styles— Tablets
representing^ a Carriage — a Cen- — ^Letters for stamping bread ;
turion's Helmet displacing the which Letters appear to have been
Conflagration of Troy, m basso- used in a manner so like the pro«
rilieuo, and found in the Forum cess of printing, that one wonders
Nundinarium at Pompeii — ^Tro- such an invention should have
phies, consisting of Helmets, Cui- escaped the Ancients — Mirrors of
rasses. Greaves, Quivers, Spears, metal — Opera-tickets for the boxes
and other arms used by the Greeks and benches : the latter Tickets
and Romans. The articles which being numbered to correspond
compose the Trophies in the four with the numbers of the seats at
comers of the room were found at the theatres — Musical Instru-
Psestum, and the rest at Pompeii ments, namely, the Sistrum, Cym-
— ^two Bells for marking time; bal, &c., and Flutes made with
they were found in Pompeii — and human bones — Bells for Cattle,
a Child's Toy, which represents a precisely like those used at the
Warrior's Car. present day ^ — toilet furniture ;
Seventh roam, feeing a miseeU among which is Rouge and other
laneous Repository, 'Rie Floor is Paint — ^Dice — Distaffs — Spindles
composed of Mosaics from Pom- — small Spinning-wheels — Pins—
peii; and in the centre of the and Bodkins of ivory — Household-
room, placed on a Mosaic Table gods — Door-cases of bronze — Nails
from Pompeii, is an elegant Port- —Screws — Locks — Keys — Latch-
able Stove, which appears to have es — Bolts — Hinges — Pivots * -^
answered the treble purpose of Bridles — Bits ; one of which was
imparting heat, boiling water, and found in the mouth of the skeleton
cooking small eatables: it was of a horse — Stirrups — Rings—
found in Herculaneum. This Necklaces — Ear-rings — Bracelets
room likewise contains Fire-irons, — Pins for the hair — Ornaments,
in. shape like those now seen on called BuUse, worn by young Pa-
hearths where wood is burnt : but tricians till they were allowed to
the Irons in question are so pecu- assume the toga — silver Cups —
liarly elegant, and so very small, Saucers — and Spoons ; but no
that perhaps they belonged to a Forks "^ — and two Tables of Bronze,
portable stove, and were used as a found in the vicinity of Taranto,
trivet, or a gridiron ^ Here also supposed to stand on, or near, the
are Chirurgical Instruments of site of one of the forty ancient
every sort known at present, 'and cities called Heradea.
several, the use of which is now Apartments containing Sepul-
(0 The Ancients, like the modem Italians, Pivots, and were fastened with Bolts hanging
neeoi to have adopted the oeconomical plan of from Chains.
cooking dinners in an oven; and one of the (m) The Mirrors, Combs, Rouge, and other
Ile[)Oi(itorieB for Bronzes in the Museo Bor- Personal Ornaments, belonging to this .Col-
boateo contains a Four de Camvagne pre- lection, were found in the Tombs of Females :
cisely like those in pre.sent use i therefore, as . the Arms, Armour, Styles, and other Writing
fire places were not common, even in kitchens. Apparatus, in the Tombs of Men ; the Toys in
Portable Stoves, for heating water, &c., must the Tombs of Children, who^e skeletons are
have been a great convenience. frequently surrounded with Marbles, Tops,
(ft) Some of the small Bells, in the Museo and jointed Dolls. Kitclien and Table Uteu-
Borbonico. appear to have been Hand-bells: sils have been found in every Tomb; as have
we are, however, told thut the ancient Greeks Vases for wine. Oil, Grain, &c. ; so that by
and Romans snapped their lingers when they examining the abodes of the Dead, we are
wanted a servant: but this, of course, was in taught the domestic cecouomy of nation:* who
the early ages of the Greek and Roman Re- inhabited this earth from two to three thou-
publics. sand years ago. Dice likewise are continually
(/) The Doors at Pompeii revolved upon found in ancient tombs.
m NAFUa [0!i.D^
ckrai Oredttn Va$e$f fit. Th« monks fuppoied to rsUte td ths
Pavemeiits in these rooms w«re Funenl of a Hero-^1347, sup^
taken from Harculaoeum, Pom^ posed to represent Ulysses and
peii. Stabisp, &o. ; and are par- Telemaohus returning; to theiv
QQularly beautifuL The CoUec- Home. This Vase displays seve*
tion of Vases is superb, and ex* ral Inscriptions — 1348, on one side
tremely interesting. Those found is a Female Figure, supposed to
in the Tombs of the Hich and represent Artemisia bewailing the
Great, are usually light coloured^ Death of Mausohis ; and on the
und adorned with paintings, which other side Hercules crowned by
represent mythological wd histo* Victory — 1349, cm one side of this
rical subjects ; those found in the Vase is Apollo defending his Tri«
Tombs of the poor and undistin* pod from the attacks of Heroules ;
guished, are usually dark coloured, and, on the other, Apollo crowned
and without ornament". Tk$ by Victory — 1441, Amazons com*-
Jlrst roam contains a Table, from batting against their Enemies —
Pompeii, mounted on beautiful 1442, a Vase remarkable for its
Feet: and among the most valu- shape and Insoription — 1473, a
able Paintings on the Vases, are Vase, the painting on whieh re-
— -number 1509, representing a {^resents the Thebui fiphinx rest-
Bacchanalian Procession — 1514, m^ on a stone. The Pottery in
the Centaur, Nessus, carrying off this room was chiefly found at S.
Dejanira, and oyertaken by Her* Agata de' (ak>ti. The third ro<m
eiiles— 1519, the upper part of contains a consido'able number of
this painting seems to represent black unomamented Vases ; and
Hercules and Antiope ; the lovfee three adorned with Paintings $
part a Bacchanalian Ceremony*^ namely, 968, Orestes consulting
1616, Persons dancing the Taran* the Oracle, at Delphos, as to the
iella, still the National Dance of means he ought to «nploy in or*
Magna Grsscia — l621,Comus. and der to ^pease the Furies, who
other Figures t — 1680, the Cover tonnentea nim for having assasei*
of a Patera, or perhaps a Soup nated his Mother to revenge his
Tureen, displaying Figures beau- Father*s death^^971, Pelops and
tifully painted* and supposed to Myrtilus; the former of whom,
r^resent a Marhage*~^1685, The** by bribing the latter, who was the
seuB slaying the Minotaur. The Charioteer of GBnomaus, King
finest Pottery in this room appears of Pisa, obtained the victory
to have been found at Riivo, No** in a diariot-race, and there-
la, and Locri. Some of the most by won the hand of the King's
interesting Paintings, on the Vases Daughter — aod the Vase placed
of the »€Cond room^ are — 1342, in the centre of the room, and
which represents Bellerophon de- adorned with a Painting of Ceres
stroying the Chimsera— 1343, a teaching Triptolemus the Art of
Ceremony supposed to relate to Agriculture. It was fbund in
the Rites of Ceres^— 1344, Cere- the district of Basillcata, anciently
(ft) This distinction, howerer, could nol The armotir is of a kind which Bmiouac«s of
haye subsisted in ver/ remote afes« when common person ; but, nevertheless, the skele*
Pottery appears to have been made of male- ton was narroaaded with plain black vases,
rials black as jet, and beautifully polished ; and iacense-liottles of plain red pottery. Tk§
bat not adorned with paintings. In a Tomb, Tomb likewise contained a Lachrymatory g(
thirty feet under g^round, at S. Agaello, a oriental alabaster, and apparmtly of £iryp-
village situated in the Piano di Sorrento, a tian workmanship.
Skeleton was lately discovered of a warrior, (o^ Triptolemus \» said to have «st«bli«h«4
eased in armonr, and supposed to have been the Eleusiniaa Festivals and Mysteries ia hf*
one of the Phoenicians who colonised there. Danr ai Cexct,
Ch. IX.] NAPLES. S8S
LuoanfaTf, Sdmd of th« mott Bacehantes; one of whom is play-
interesting Paintings on the Vases ing on the Dorian Flute — 499»
of the /bur^ room are— 574, the Heroules and the Bull of Marathon
Triumphs of Love — 578, a Tomb, — 613, Bacchus and Ariadne*
denoted by an Ionic Column Some of the most interesting
standing on two Steps, And the Paintings on the Vases of /A^m^M
figure of a Man* who holds a Bird^ room are — 143, Jason killing the
taking wing ; emblematical, per* Dragon which guarded the Golden
haps, of the Soul escaping from Fleece! — 144, Minerva surrounded
the Body 4— 579, one subject re* by the Armies of the Greeks and
presented on this fine Vase seems Trojans. The Figures are black
to be Telemaehus (when in the on a yellow ground, and therefore
Island of Ogygia,) reproached by the Vase is supposed to have been
Mentor ; and on the opposite side manufactured m Sicily, where the
are Hercules and Victory —6 82, ancient pottery was^ generally
Bellerophon presenting himself to speaking, thus ornamented — 140,
Jobates, King of Lycia — 812, a Hercules, on his arrival in Sicily,
Patera which merits notice, on vanquishing Eryx; and, on the
account of its size, and the Paint- reverse side of the Vase, a beau*
ings with which it is ornamented— tiful ancient Car ^~ 148, Combat
731, a large and beautiful Patera, for the Corse of Patroclus — 149,
found in the district of Canosa— the Exploits of Lycurgus, King of
602, a Patera, the inside of which Thrace — 233, this Vase (a Leoy-
exhibits a Mask of Bronte, the thus for incense) is supposed to
only Metallic Ornament hitherto have been manufactured by the
seen on ancient Pottery. Some of Siculi ; and the Paintings it exhi-
the most interesting Paintings on bits represent Achilles, in his Car,
the Vases of the /i/th room are— with the Corse of Hector tied to
404, Cadmus, who, assisted by one of the wheels — 283, Nessus
Pallas, is destroying the Dragon and Dejanira : the Vase omament-
which devoured nis Companions, ed with this Painting is very an-
Prom the name of the painter cient — 192, a Vase which proves, by
found on this Vase, it is supposed an original crack in the globular
to have been manufactured at part, &at it came out of the oven
Paestum — 405, the Sepulchre of thus disfigured by too great heat;
Agamemnon, with Orestes, Py- and consequently that ancient
lades, Eleotra, &c. on one side; Pottery was painted before it
and on the other Clytemnestra was baked* The most remarkable
giving her hand to -/E^sthus— » Paintings on the Vases of thi
408, a Sacrifice: one of the Ca- seventh room are— I, the Stoiy of
millae is represented in this painting Pelops and Hypodamia — 2, Per*
- ^07, a Combat between the La- sens presenting Medusa's head to
pithae and the Centaurs «— 4 1 0, Minerva is represented on one side
(jb) Thift room contains Models in Cork« of brestt of a cone surrounded hy six nr eigit^t
the inside of Three Ancient Sepulchres : the Incense-bottles;) Lamps, Vases for the pun-
largest represents the Greco-Romaao Public fying ^vaier, &c., and a Dish for Cerberus's
eepuliihre at Naples: the next in sise repre* top.
Sents the inside of a Tomb found at Pmstam ; (q) A Colnmn placed orer, or near, agrar^t
and contains a Painting, (the snbjeot of which was the sign of a Hero's Cenotaph.
ik a Combat,) Vases for purifying vrater, wine, ** Plant the fair column o'er the raeattt
oil, &c., a Dish for Cerberus's sop, and th« ?!*&▼«,
Corse, placed in the centre, with Arms and A hero's honours let the hero have."
Armour by its side. The smallest exhibits HokbrN Odi/t»ei/, Book I.
the usual contents of a tomb, namely, a Corse (r) LyenrgUH is said to hare driven Bae*
la the centre, with a piece of Money in the chus from Uhrace; at the same time coos*
mouth, and an Lncense-bottle on the breast } maadiag that he should no longer be wor-
rit is not uncommon, however, to find the shipped there.
284
NAPLES.
[Ch. IX.
of this mafrnificent Vase ; and the worn by the Ladies of Europe,
other displ^s a beautiful Tricli- in the present day — 88, a Wine-
nium, round which Five Persons cup, (formed like a ram*s head)
are seated at a Banquet—^, a with Paintings which represent a
Tomb, near which is a Female Bacchante holding a Thjrsus, and
iPigure seated, in an attitude de- a half-length Figure ot a l^an —
noting grief: and behind her stands 87, a Wine-cup (formed like the
another Figure, supposed to re- head of a mule) with a Painting
present Old Age — 5, a Vase which of a winged Genius, who seems
particularly merits observation on employed in arresting the course
account of its uncommon size : it of a Hare — 27, the subject repre-
was found in the district of Ca- sented on this Vase is Bacchus,
nosa; and is ornamented with with a Bacchante, and a Faun;
paintings of an ^dicula, and a the last being in the costume of a
Tomb — 6, a Vase (also found in modem Harlequin — 32, displays
the district of Canosa) with Paint- a Masked Faun whose costume is
ings which represent an ^dicula precisely that of the Neapolitan
and Tombs — 1 1 9, a Cinerary Urn, Puldnella, except the Mask, which
which exhibits a Combat between entirely covers the face of the
twoWarriors— 76, Lycurgus, King Faun; whereas Ptdcinella wears
of Thraee, slaying a Bacchante who a half-mask. Among the most
kneels for mercy — 68, on this Vase remarkable Paintings on the Vases
are the following Greek characters, of the eighth room ^ , called the
" TEPMON : " it is therefore sup- Nola Repository, are — ^20, Her-
posed to have been one of the cules destroying the Hydra of
prizes awarded to conquerors in Lema — 30, a Fragment, on which
chariot-races* — 61, a beautiful Hercules is represented slaying
Lecythus (from Locri) ornamented Busiris — ^2048, a Vase on wnich
with a Painting of a seated R- is a Pulpit for exhibiting Little
gure holding a Greek Inscription Farces acted by Marionnettes, and
— 60, on this Vase is the name precisely like tne Pulpits used for
of a celebrated painter, Asteas, a similar purpose, at the present
who has represented Hercules in day, in Magna Graecia — 2069, Plu-
the Garden of the Hesperides ! — tus seducing a youthful Female.
59, a beautiful Painting, supposed The Inscriptions on this Vase al-
to be Penelope bewailing the ab- lude to the Paintings — 2049, sup-
sence of Ulysses; or Phaedra la- posed to represent Phcenix ad-
menting her guilty passion for vising Achilles not to engage in
Hippolytus' — 98, a remarkably the Trojan War — 2053, a Faun
elegant Patera, found at Nola, and rescuing a Bacchante from another
adorned with Paintings of Ama- Faun — 2066, the Marriage of Bac-
chus and Ariadne in the Island
of Naxos — 1 984, Telemachus com-
ing to the Palace of Menelaus at
Sparta, and Helen at the door.
zons, and a youthful Warrior —
94, in the central Painting on this
Patera, (likewise found at Nola,)
are two Reticules^ similar to those
(«) The earthen Vases of the Ancienfs were
not connecrated to the Dead alone, bat fre-
ijuently Ufed in sacrifices (especially those
offered to Vesta and likewise given, m very
early ages, as prizes to the victors at Grecian
festivals. Earthen vases filled with oil were
bestowed on the conquerors at the Pana-
theoae : and probably this sort of ware served
also for domestic purposes.
(0 The Vases numbered 60, and 59, were
both found at Pvstum, in a Sepulchre, the
Model of which may be seen in the third
room appropriated to Grecian Vases. The
^'a)>es iu question contained peifnme><«.
(v) In the seven Repositories for Pottery,
already mentioned, the most remarkable Vases
S laced on Columns and Half-columns are
escribed in the first instance ; and in the
second^ (he Vases placed on Shelves : but, in
the eighth room, theVasea standing on Shelvei
are first mentioned.
Ch. IX.]
NAPLES
2$d
offering "wine to her youthful Guest
— 2007, Ulysses and Menelaus
conductins: Chryseis to her Father
— 2006, Menelaus, after the fall
of Troy, about to stab Helen,
whose beauty disarms him — 2004,
Orpheus, with a seven- stringed
Lyre, sitting between Erato and
Calliope — ^2012, Ajax papng Mer-
cury for the passage of the Styx.
The Vase ornamented with this
Picture is highly valued ; it seems to
have held incense — 2002, Jupiter
seated, and Hebe presenting him
with Nectar— 2001, the Garden of
the Hesperides; in the centre of
which appear the tree producing
golden apples, guarded by the
Dragon who never slept ; and two
of the Daughters of Hesperus ;
one giving a Cake to the Dragon,
and the other gathering the Fruit
— 1925, a Prsefericulum, curious
on account of its shape; and as
the Figures by which it is adorned
are black on a yellow ground, they
were probably executed in Sicily
— 1958, this Vase, shaped in the
lower part like the head of a
Giyphon, appears to have been a
Wme-cup ; me only Figure painted
on it is a winged Genius — 1943,
Hercules is represented on this
Vase gathering the Golden Ap-
ples in the Garden of the Hespe-
rides, andiEgle giving the Cake
to the Dragon — 1941, Orestes,
Pylades, and Electra, at the Tomb
of Agamemnon — 1948, this Vase,
the lower part of which resembles,
in shape, the head of a Gryphon,
exhibits a Painting of a Combat
between one of those fabulous
ftnimfllg and an Anmaspian" —
1947, a Female Juggler, who is
represented in the act of foiling
upon poignards fixed in the earth
with taeir points upward — 1867,
Apollo striking the Lyre, and Mar-
syas listening ! — 1851, supposed to
represent one of the Festivals
called TrieteHcd, and instituted by
Bacchus, in commemoration of
his expedition to India — 1850, a
Mystical Apparatus, used in the
worship of Ceres and Bacchus —
1849, Theseus slaying the Bull of
Marathon ; Pallas and another
Warrior are aiding him, while
Victory presents him with a Crown
— 1850, Penthesilea, Queen of the
Amazons, slain by Achilles before
the Walls of Troy!— 1859, Hercu-
les strangling the Nemaean Lion,
and Minerva assisting — 1856, the
Painting^ on this Vase are sup-
posed to represent one of the Ce-
remonies relative to the Eleusinian
Mysteries — 1 853, the Paintings
on this Vase appear to represent
Hercules deified^] 854, the Paint-
ing on tl^is Vase is supposed to
represent Cassandra entreating
Apollo to endow her with the girl
of Prophecy!! — 1848, this superb
Vase (valued at ten thousand
Neapolitan ducats) is adorned
with beautiful Paintings, supposed
to represent a Festivsd which was
celebrated amiually by the Greeks,
in honour of Bacchus, when the
Amphorae containing the new wine
were first opened for use. At an
Altar, above which is seen a
Herma of the ^od, stands a Priest-
ess clothed with deer- skin; and
above her head is written in Greek,
" The Sprinkler : " because she
commenced the Rites, by sprinkling
the Altar and the Sacrificators
with holy water : she holds a Cupj
(the form of which is precisely
similar to that of a Metal Cup,
found in the Vase,) and appears
to be drawing Wine from one of
the Amphorae placed on the Altar,
for the purpose of making a Li-
bation : she is attended by a Bac-
chante holding a lighted Torch
and a Thyrsus; and two other
Figures, namely, a Torch-bearer,
and a Musician with a timbrel.
(«) The Arimaspians, according to fabalons looted the golden sands of tbe Arimaspias, a
history, had hot one eye; and waged con- rivpr of Scythia.
tinnal wan against the Orvphons, who col- See Miltok, Pandite Lost, Book If,
S8« NAPL£9c [(%. DD
make part of this Group. On that it was h]«hty estimated b3F th«
the opposite side of the Vase are Ancients. The Vase numbered
Four Bacchantes, executed in a 1848, was a^o found at Nola^.
most beautiful style ! ! I : — 1846, Apartments containing the Far*
this superb Vase (likewise valued nese Collection of EaBel-picturee,
at ten thousand Neapolitan du-» and modem Paintings in tempera*
eats) surpasses that numbered The Collection of Easel-pictures,
1848, with resx)ect to the preserva- by far the least interesting part, of
tion of the varnish, the correctness the Museo-Borbonico, is, however,
of the outlines, and the animation . well arranged ; one or more roomsi
displayed in the figures : added to being dechcated to each School:
which, the subject chosen by the The Apartment called Galleria d^
painter is particularly interesting ; Cc^ a Opera contains — No. 1,
for he has represented the fatel Portrait of Philip II, of Spain, by
night when Troy was annihilated. Titian ! — 3, Charity, by Schidone 1 1
Priam may be discovered, seated — 7, the Holy Family, called the
upon the Altar of Jupiter- Arceus, Madonna del gatto, by Giulio Ro«
and hiding his face with his hands, mano I — 8, Rinaldo and Armida»
while he receives, from Pyrrhus, by Agostino Caracci I — 9, the Ma-
the stroke of death. Polytes, who donna and Infant Saviour, S«
appears to have defended Priam John, S. Anne, and Jos^h in the
from the sword of Pyrrhus, lies back ground, by Raphael!! — 10»
bleeding at his feet. Seated on the Madonna, the Infant Saviour,
the earth is a Female Figure, sup- and S. John, by Raphael! — 12,.
posed to represent Hecuba, whom Portraits of the Duke of Urbino
Ulysses stretches out lus hand to and Bramante, by Andrea del
raise; while Diomedes dissuades Sarto ! ^12, Leo X, seated between
him from so doing. Upon the Cardinals Luigi de' Rossi, and
Altar of Jupiter sit two of the Giuho de' Medici, by Raphael !—
Camilla;, tearing their hair. Ano- 13, Alcides between Vice and Vir-
ther Group represents Cassandra tite« by Annibale Caracci — 14*
clinging to the Palladium; while Portrait of Cardinal Passerini, 1:^
Ajax, having .already mortally Rapha^ — 16, the Transfigtiratiofi,
wounded her Lover and Protector, by Giovanni Bellino — 1 7, a Sketch
Choroebus, threat^is her life, of Paul III, &c. by Titian — 18,
iBneas is represented conducting the Holy Family and S. John, by
Ascanius and carrying Anchises: Sebastiano del Piombo — 19, Por-
and, according to some opinions, trait of a Cardinal, by Velasquez,
the painter has exhibited Asty- — 20, the Deposition from the
anax as dead, to express the ex- Cross, by Benvenuto Garofolo —
tinction ot the Trojan Kings. This 22, Venus and a Satyr, by Anni-
peculiarly beautiiul Vase, disco- bale Caracca — 24, the Assumption
vered in consequence of an ex- ot the Madonna, by Fra Bartolom*
cavation at Nola, was not founds meo — 25, a large Landscape, by
like many others, in a sepulchre, Claude ! ! — 26, a Pietu, by Anni-
but quite alone, and carefully pre- bale Caracci ! — 27, S. John con-
served in an outer vase of coarse tempkiingthe Saviour while asleep,
clay ; which circumstance, added painted in temp^-a, by Parmigi*-
to the Greek word kaaos, " beau- anino — 28, the Magdalene, Of
tit'ul," being discoverable upon it Guercino — 29, Portrait of Paul
in three places, seems to prove III, by Titian — 31, the Mairiage.
(ur) Thin Apartment likewise contai&a a two adjoining rooms are placed, proviMonally,
lar^e nnmber of ancient earthen-ware lam{>ai the Faraeiie Collection ot Ancieiit Medal».
whicli u»y be ae«i, *f enquired for : and in
CltIX.J NAPLES.' «87
of S. Catherine^, by Correggio I^--* bia. The ftndeBt Frescos, litt^ly
32, the Madonna del Coniglio^ by removed from Portici to the Mu«
Correggio! — ^d3« the AngSo cus^ seo-Borbonieo, are so beautiful
todSi by Domenichino 1 1 — 34 » Por-* m point of eomp08ition» and, gene-
trait of Columb^is, by Parmifi* rally speaking, so unskilfully exe*
aninot — 35, the Magdalene, by cuted, that it is supposed the
Titian— 36, Danae, by Titian 1 1--^ major part of them may be copies^
38, the Last Judgment, sketched done bv common house-paintenl
from Michael Angelo*s celebrated irom the most renowned pieture4
picture upon this subject, by Mar-> of antiquity. They embellished th«
cello Venusti I Among the paint- Walls of private nouses, and pub*
ings in the other Apartments are-- lie edifices, and are; according to
Christ disputing with the Doctors, the opinion ofWinckelmann, not
by Salvator Rosa — a small Land« much more ancient than the Au^^
scape, bv Claude — two Portraits, gustan a^ ; at which period Paint-
by Vandyck ! — ^two Portraits, by ing was in its waiie. The sub*
Hembrandtl — the Portmit of a jects best understood of these
Grandee of Spain, by Rubens — Frescos are as follows : —
the Head of an old Man, by Ru- Perseus and Andromeda : (from
bens — S. Michael, by Lanfranoo— • Pompeii) — Hesione saved from
Calvary, by the Cav. Bernardino death, by Hercules: (from Pom*
Gatti — S. Cecilia, by Ag^stino peii) — a View of Pozzuoli — ^Egyp*
Caracci— Portrait ot a Music^ tian Figures^~« Sacrifice to the
master, — and ditto of a Lute- Earth: (from Pompeii) — Her-
plaver, both by Agpstino Caracci cules killing the ravenous birds
— the FaU of Simon Magus, by called Stymphalides — ^Harpocrates,
Lodovico Caracci I —the Madon- (found m the Temple of Isis, at
na and Infant Saviour — and two Pompeii) — Dido abandoned : (from
Children lavighing, by Pajrmigi- Pompeii)-— Mercury, and the God-
anino — a Sea-view, by Vernet— » dess Mania, supposed to be the
two Portraits, by Luini — the Ma- mother of the Lares and Manes :
donna and Infant Saviour, by Luini (from Pompeii) — Ariadne aban*
— the Adoration of the Magi, by doned by Theseus : (from Hercu-:
Cesare da Sesto—the Slaughter of laneum) — Marsyas and Olympus :
the Innocents, by Matteo da Siena, (from Pompeii) — ^tlie Nuptials of
painted in 1418— Portrait of Alex> Massinissa and Sophonisba : (from
ander VI, by Sebastian© del Piom- Pompeii) — ^the Judgment of Paris
bo — Portrait of Amerieanus Ves- — an Amorino stealing a pair of
pucci, by Parmigianino —the Ma- Shoes — the Grecian Horse brought
donna and Infant Saviour, by into Troy : (from Pompeii) — ^Anu-
Raphael — Portrait of Tibaldeus, bis— a Sacrifice to Pallas: (irom
by Raphael! — S.John, by Leon- Pompeii) — »a Caricatura of the
anlo da Vinci I! — ^the Madonna Caesars, representinjg ^neas, his
and Infant Saviour, by the same Father, and Son, as impure Deities
Artist 1 1 — ^two large Frescos, by wi h Dogs' Heads' — Hercules
Correggio — and, in the first Ca- sleeping: (from Herculaneum)—
binet. Cartoons, by Raphael, Mi^ the Ju^ment of Paris — a Priestess
cbael Angelo, &c. sacrificing: (irom Herculanenm)—
GaUeru of ancient Frescos y found Peleus rejecting the love of As y-
%nHer(Mh>neumyPompeH,andSta-> damia: {ftom Herculaneum) —
(x) Excellent Models, in Cork, of the (y) Drawing in caricatura seems to h-ive
Temples, Basilica, &c. at Psestam ; and like- been common among the Ancients ; wlio fre-
wise <^ otkar Moiant Kdinoes id Magpiar aoentiy oeoipared men t«, and represented
Gnecia, are placed in' one of these rooms. tkea uadav. tlie forms of be«»c».
288 NAPLES. [CSlIX.
Apollo, Chirbti, and iEsculapius, peii) — Polyphemus receiving, from
in their medicinal capacities ! (from Galatea, a letter brought by a Love
Pompeii) — Hypsipyle terrified by mounted on a Dolphin*: (from
the sight of the Serpent which Herculaneum) — ^the Infant Her-
destroyed the Child entrusted to cules strangling the Serpents sent
her care: (ftx)m Pompeii) — Ari- by Juno to devour him: (from
adne abandoned by Theseus: Herculaneum) — ^the Judgment of
(from Herculaneum) — ^Juno, Pal- Paris — ^16 — a Centaur blowing the-
las, and Venus, supposed to be Double Flute — ^Marsyas and Olym-
arranging a plan to ensure Jason's pus : (from Pompeii) — Telephus
victory in Colchis : (from Hercu- and his four-footed Nurse : (from
laneum) — ^Endymion — a Citharist Pompeii)---Chiron teaching Achil-
in a HflJf-mask, said to be the only les to strike the Ivre, ascribed to
mask of its kind yet discovered: Parrhasius; though more probably
(from Herculaneum) — ^the Seven copied from a work by that artist I
Days of the Week, represented by (from Herculaneum) — an Isiaic
the Seven Planets ; Saturn, (Sa- Ceremony ! (from Herculaneum)
turday) being placed first : (from — Ditto — Iphigenia discovering
Pompeii)— the Education of Bac- Orestes : (from Herculaneum) —
chus ; 'supposed to be the copy of 16 — ^Theseus in Crete : (from Her-
a fine onginal: (from Hercu- culaneum) — Jupiter vanquished by
laneum) — a Priest carrying the Love: (from Herculaneum) — Ari-
Table used in religious ceremonies : adne — the inquisitive Waiting
(from Herculaneum) — Pan wrest- Maid : (from Herculaneum) — ^the
ling with Love : (from Hercu- Chace of Calydon : (from Hercu-
culaneum) — a Consultation be- laneum) — Rope-Dancers repre*
tween a Lady and her Attendant ! sentin^ Fauns, and holding Bac-
some persons suppose this Paint- chanalian Instruments. The limbs
ing to represent rhsedra and her of these Dancers are painted
Nurse ; and others think it was with a variety of colours ; a cus-
intended for Penelope and Eury- tom continued still, by the po-
nome : (from Pompeii.) Phryxus pulace of Magna Graecia, diu--
andHelle ; the latter is represented ing Carnival (from Pompeii) — the
nearly drowned in the Hellespont : same subject — ^two Paintings re-
(from Pompeii) — a domestic Re- presenting Infantile Amusements
past. The shape of the ancient — ^the Throne of Mars and Venus,
Eating Table, and the ancient a Female Centaur, and aYoutiil
manner of Drinking, are both seen Zeuxis is supposed to have invented
in this Picture *: (from Pompeii) — Female Centaurs: (from Hercu-
a Trophy interesting on account of laneum) — Ulysses and the Sirens
the costimies it represents : (from — Charity — Daedalus and Icarus — -
Pompeii) — Ulysses discovering a Parrot drawing a Car, and a
himself to Penelope ! (from Sta- Grasshopper driving ! supposed to
biae) — Bacchus condemning an be a copy from Zeuxis ; who wa.s
immoderate use of wine! (from famous for these whimsical sub-
Herculaneum) — ^Hercules with the iects I — ^Hercules and the Lion of
Wild-boar of Erymanthus, and Mount Citheron : (from Hercula-
Eurystheus hijd in a Vase, which neum) — ^a Female Painter seated
was his place of refuge when he before the entrance to a Temple,
apprehended danger : (from Her- on one of the Pillars of which, an
culaneum) — Sappho : (from Pom- Ex-voto, like that we see in Ro-
. (z) The peaMnts of Maffna Gra»cia are still certain distance from tkeir months when ther
» the habit of holding the wine-fiask at a drink. '
Ch. IX.]
NAPLES.
dd9
man Catholic Churches at present. Frescos in this Collection repre-
is suspended: (from Pompeii) — sent Boys making Wine, and a
Cassandra entreating Apollo to Wine-press — a Naval Combat, ill-
endow her with the Gift of Pro- done, out cinrious, because it ex-
phecy: (from Herculaneum) — hibits ancient Galleys, and the
Andromeda delivered by Perseus : mode of fighting them — a Croco-
(from Pompeii) — a Theatrical Re- dile Hunt — Crocodiles and Hip-
presentation of an Actor, in a scoff- popotami. From the latter, accord-
mg mask, making signs with his ing to Pliny, man learnt tiie art of
fingers to upbraid a young Female, bleeding hunself; as this animdi,
who hides her face. This mode of when too full of blood, presses
reproof was common among the its foot against pointed reeds, by
Greeks : (from Herculaneum) — which means the operation is per-
another Theatrical Representation formed — a Garden, interesting, be-
— a Concert I (from Herculaneum) cause it appears from this, and
— Orestes and Pylades chained, other pictures of ancient gardens,
and conducted by the Soldiers of that they resembled those now seen
Ttioas to be sacrificed to Diana : in Italy and Magna Grseda — ^four
(from Herculaneum) — Marsyas Pictures in one ; namely, a Hare
and Apollo : (from Herculaneum) and a Fowl — a Pheasant and two
— Bacchanalian Mysteries: (from Apples — ^three Birds and some
Herculaneum)* — Isiaic Ceremo- Mushrooms — ^two Partridges and
nies — ^Wrestlers: (from Hercula- three Fishes — (the Hare, by an-
neum) — a Vender of baked meat ; cient epicures, was considered as
the buyers are represented with the best quadruped, and the Thrush
Ccq?ots, such as the Mariners of the best bird) — a tworwheeled Car-
Magna Grsecia wear at the present riage for tiie conveyance of. bag-
moment — ^Venders of Cloth, Bread, gage, with a Driver on one of the
^. in the Forum ; and a Black- horses — a Mule saddled — a Man
smith witii his Apprentice working riding one, and guiding three
on a Portable Anvil — a School- horses — (the ancients frequently
master chastising one of his Scho- used to ride three, and even four
lars — a public School under a Porti- horses at once; leaping from one
CO of the Forum. The persons seat- to another with extraoroinary agi-
ed are supposed to represent the lity) — a female Elephant and her
School-master and the Proschu- Cub, ^c. ^.
lum ^ — young Men standing before This GaUery likewise contains
the entrance to a Thermapolium some of the Ashes which pene-
in the Fx)rum, and taking refresh- trated into the Cellar of theVilla
ments — a Picture which probably of Diomedes ; and which still re-
may represent a Vender of such tain the impression of part of a
common Shell-fish as are now Human Form ; supposed, from the
boiled and sold daily in the streets necklace and bracelets of gold
of Naples — a Blind Beggar con- found on the Skeleton of the per-
ducted by his Dog — a Cobler's son whose corse made this impres-
StaU*'?— a Hawker — and the in- sion, to have been the Mistress of
tended Sacrifice of Iphigenia at the Villa: her Scull is preserved
Aulis — all from Pompeii. Other in the same case with the ashes *.
(a) Darinff these ceremonies three fi^s were
offered to the goAi the namfoer three was
•acred and typical amonfr the heathens.
(6) The business of tne Proschulum con-
sisted in taking care that the children pre-
sented themselves in a becoming manner be-
fore their master.
(c) This painting was probably placed over
tbe door of » 'tboemaker's shop; a« almost
every tradesman at Hercnlanenm and Pom-
peii seems to have announced his merchandise
Dy a sign on the outside of his hoase.
(df) Persons who wish to make Sketches,
eitner in the Museo-Borbonico, or at Pompeii,
should apply for permission to his Kzeellency
the Minister of tlie Casa Reale, al Palaiao-
Vecchio.
290
NAPLES.
[Ch. IX.
The Museo-Bcwbonico is usually Caravaegio — Christ disputing with
open to the Public every day, fes- the Doctors, by the same master ;
tivals excepted, from eijrht in the ^c. <Jr. Here likewise is a Halt
morninff fill Iwo in the afternoon ; hung round with Portraits of the
and Foreigners usually give, to Viceroys of Naples, by Massimo
each Custode, from two to six car- and Paolo Matteis ; and a hand-
lini, according to the number of some Chapel, with an Altar of
the party he attends, and the trou- agate, lapis lazuli, and other pre-
ble he takes in explaining things : cious marbles. The Residence of
but they are not expected to repeat Prince Leopoldo, which is nearly
these fees every time they visit the opposite to the Palazzo Reale, con-
Museum, tains the finest Collection of Re-
Persons who purchase Finati's lures in Naples,
excellent account of the Gallery of Chiesa di S. Francesco. The
Sculpture, are not expected to give foundations of this Edifice were
any fee below-stairs, except a trifle laid in the Piazza Reale, during
to the door-keeper of this Gallery; the year 181^, and by command («!
two carlini to the Custode of the the late King of Naples. The out-
Apartment which contains the side is nearly completed : but the
Egyptian Antiquities ; the same interior part will not, in all proba-
sum to the Custode of the Hall of bility, be finished under eight or
Bronzes ; and a trifle to the Porter ten years. It may be called ft
in the Vestibule : and Persons who triple Church. The largest of the
- msh to dive deep into the An- three, placed in the centre of the
tiquities of Magna Graecia, should building, is a Rotondo, covered by
endeavour to ootain an introduc- a Dome of very extensive diroen-
tion to the Canonico, Don Andrea * ^^v . . ^, *
de Jorio ; who is not only a dis-
tinguished Antiquary, but likewise
most gentlemanly and agreeable,
and a kind fi:-iend to British Tra-
vellers. This Work has been ma-
terially benefited by his luminous marbles; and the Ceiling of the
publications,^ and its author feels Nave, the Cupola and its Aiigles,
are embellished with the best Fres-
cos of Paolo Matteis. The Sta-
tues of* David and Moses, in one
of the Chapels, are by Vaccaro.
Castello-Nuovo — a Fortress, be-
gun in 1283, according to the
designs of Giovanni Pisano, btrt
not completed till 1546, contains
sions. The two minor Churches
are likewise surmounted by Domes ;
and Colonnades and Statues orna-
ment the exterior of the Edifice.
Chiesa di S. Ferdinando. TTiis
Church is richly adorned with
m conse-
most thankfbl to him
quence •.
Palazzo Reale^, This Edifice,
erected by the Count de Lemos,
according to the designs of the
Cav. Fontana, to whose taste it
does honour, contains magnificent
apartments handsomely furnished,
and enriched with fine Pictures,- the Arsenal, and a Triumphal Arch,
namely, the Madonna of Monte- erected in honour of Alphonso of
Casino, by Raphael — ^the Cardinal Arragon.
Virtues, copied fi-om Raphael, by Castello delt Uovo, This was
Annibale Caracci-^ Orpheus, by once a Villa belonging to Lucul-
(/) The Canonico, Don Andrea de Jorio,
liRs recently published, for the use of Travel-
lers, an elegant Pocket Map of Naples, sub-
joined to a List of every thing; best -vrorth
notice there : and pennons who wish for a more
detaijfd account, would find it in •* The Na-
ples Guide,** recently publis»hed, in Italian
and Englis.h, by Sig. 1. B. Ferrari, Professor
of Languages.
(y) It is necessary to have an order for
seeing the Palazzo Reale, at Naples ; and llie
other roval residences. These orders nuirt be
signed oy the Lord High Steward ; and T6-
reurners who apply for them pay one piastre.
None of the royal residences, however, are
worth a«eiaff, except the palace at Naples,
and that at Caserta.
Ch. IX.] JStAfttS. M
lUs ; but an ebrthquake separated ihea, is, ih fact^ the PoHrikit rf
it from the main limd ; and WiU Sannazaro. This Church b\96
liam I, second King of Naples^ contains a Picture Of the Purifica-^
built a palace here. It derives its tion, by Vassari (who likewise
name from its shape. painted the Sacristy ;) an A&sump^
Chiem di S'. Maria dd Potto, tion, by Pintttricchio ; and one of
The ground on which this Edifice the best Organ* in Italy,
itands Was given by Frederic II, Chiesa dt Gssii Nuovd, of TW*
of Arragon» to his Seck-etary, San- ntta Maggiore. This Churcht ©***
nazaro ; and behind the Hij^h-altui' of the linest at Naples, Waft built
is the Tomb of that great Poet, by according to the designs of N ovello
Poggibonzi, one of Michael An- di S. Lucano: it has suffiei«dc6fH
gelo's scholars. The ornaments siderably from earthquakei; \»
are too numerous; but the compo- one of which tiie Cupola, painteS
sitionisgood, andthe^offJt-K/tVtH', by Lanfranco, Was desti'o^, th^
allusive to the Piscatory Eologuen, four Evangelists e)ccepted. Th#
and other writings of Sannazaro, other Paintings in the present Cu-
are finely ekeouteil. On the sides pola are by Paolo Matteisi Oreif
of the Monumeht are Statues of the Great Door is a large iFVesco,
Apollo and Minerva, now called by Solimene, repre&entii^e Helio**
David and Judith \ and on the dorus driven out Of the Temple !
top is the Bust of Sannazaro, with The Chapel of the Madonna WaH
his Arcadian name, AcHum Binee^ likewise painted b^ Solimene. The
rtif, placed between two weeping Chapel of S. Ignazio is ornamented
Genii. The inscription, with fine marbles, and the whole
" J>a snero cineri /lores. Bio itte MaronU Edifice incnisted and paved with.
Sincefg, Muta, proximus Mt twimh," the same. The Chapel of the TVini-
is by Cardinal Bembo. fy contains a PiciUfe by Guercino*
Chiesa di S. BHgida, Here is Chiesa di S*. Chiara. ThiJ wan
the Tomb of Giordano, and a Cu-^ originally an Italian Gothio Strue-^
pola painted by that distinguished ture, commenced in 1810, aceoid«>
artist. ing to the designs of Masuccio, who
Chiesa di 8» Giovanni de" Fio^ likewise built the Campanile,which|
rentini. This Edifice, built by a though not completed as he pttt^
scholar of Michael Angelo's, is re- posed, is much admired in point of
puted to be a fine specimen of architectuf-e. The interior of th6
architecture. Church was adorned with paint*
Chiesa di t Incoronaia» Here ings by Giotto, tiH the Regeht,
are remains of Paintings by Giotto« Bario Nliovo, not Understanding
Chiesa della Pi^th ds' Torchini. their merit, ordered them to be cd'>
This Church is ornamented with a vered with white-wash. During
fine Altar-piece, by Solimene, and the year 1744,yaccaro modemited
a beautifbl Painting in the Lan- the Nave, which was, at the iSMM
tern of its Cupola, by Giordano I time, beautifully paved with tare
Chiesa di Sa, Maria della Neva, marbles, and embellished with %
Here are good paintings, by Marco Ceiling, painted by Sebastiano
di Siena. Conca and Francesco La Mtira \
Chiesa di S», Maria di Mont^ that part which represents Ss Chi-
Oliveio, Here are curious Statues, ara putting the Sataoens to ^ghti
in creta-cotta, by Modanino di is by the last-named artist, and a
Modena, representing illustrious work of great merit : he likewise
Characters of the fifteenth century: painted the Picture placed aboYife
and that cdUed Joseph of Arima- the High-altar» near which «i« twd
u 2
293 NAPLES. [Ch. IX.
fluted Columns ; and, according td the Churches of S. Severo, and S.
tradition, that on the left was Gennaro de* Poveri. The Cata-
brought from Solomon*s Temple. combs of Naples are said to be
One of the Chapels contains a much larger than those of Rome :
Picture by Lanfranco ; and, in it is not easy, however, to ascer-
another, some Paintings by Giotto tain this ; it being impossible to
are stiU remaining. The Bassi- penetrate far into them. Th^ ge-
rilievi over the Great Door deserve neral opinion seems to be, that
attention <^. they were, like the Roman Cata-
Chiesa di S, Giovanni Mag- combs, Public Burial-places, form-
giore. This Ediflce is built upon ed originally by excavations made
the ruins of a Temple which was in search of pozzolana**.
erected by Adrian to his Favourite, Chiesa di S. Giovanni h Car- .
Antinous. It was consecrated by bonara — ^worth observation, as it
Constanline and S. Helena to S. contains a Gothic Tomb, im-
John Baptist ; and, in consequence mensely large, of Ladislaus, King
of its great antiquity, a Tomb of Naples; another of Giovanni
which it contains has been digni- Caracciolo, and some fine Sculp-
fied with the appellation of Parthe- ture in the Vico- Chapel,
nope's Sarcophagus. Chiesa de' S. S. Apostoli. This
Chiesa del Salvatore, or Gesu Church, erected on the Site of a
Vecchio. Here are Paintmgs by Temple of Mercury, and conse-
Marco di Siena, Francesco La crated to the Apostles, by Con-
Mura, Solimene, ^c, stantine, was rebuilt dunng the
Chiesa di S, Domenico Mag- seventeenth century, and adorned
giore. This Church contains an with particularly fine Frescos.
Annunciation, attributed to Ti- Tlie Ceiling of the great Nave
tian ; and a fine Painting, attributed and Choir, the five Pictures on the
to Caravaggio, of the Flagellation, walls of the latter, and the Angles
The Ceiling of the Sacristy is of the Cupola, are hy Lanfranco I
ornamented with a Painting of S. as lUcewise are the Ceilings of the
Domenico in glory, by Sohmene ! small Chapels ; and the large and
The Convent belonging to this beautiful Fresco over the Great
Chm-ch formerly comprised the Door is, by some authors, attri-
University ; whosfe Professors buted to the same master. The
taught .their Scholars in vaults un-- Cupola was painted by Benasca,
derfi^round. and the Lunettes are tne work of
Chiesa dello Spinto Santo. This Solimene and Giordano ; the latter
is a fine edifice in point of archi- of whom has likewise ornamented
tecture; and contains a painting, the Cross with four Paintings repre-
by Francesco La Mura, which re- senting the Annunciation ! the Na-
presents the Descent of the Holy tivity I the Birth of the Madonna I
Ghost. and the Presentation in the Tem-
Chiesa di 5f<«. Maria delta Sa- pie I The High-altar is richly em-
nM, Here are good Pictures, by bellished with precious marbles ;
Giordano, Bernardino Siciliano, and the Filomarini- Chapel (great
Andrea Vaccaro, and Agostino part of which was executed after
Beltrano. This Church leads to the designs of Guido, by Calandra
the Catacombs ; as hkewise do da Vercelli) is adorned with a
(jl) This Church likewise contains an ele- subterranean repositories; the investigation
gaat Latin Epitaph in memory of a young of which cannot De wholesome, even for p«r-
Lady, who died on the day destined for her sons in health ; all the unhappy sufferera
naptials. . . daring the last Plague having b««a thrown in
{*) No Invalid should attempt to ymt these here.
Ch.IX.] NAPLES. 29S
beautiful Basso-nlievOy by Fia- Michael Aneelo. Adjoining to the
miugo, representing a Concert of present CaUiedral is the ancient
Children ! ! Opposite to this Cha- Church of S. Restituta ; 'which,
pel is that of the Conception, though in part destroyed, still con-
richly decorated with precious mar- tains Columns probably taken
bles, and embellished with Paint- from the Temple of Apollo, and
ings by Solimene and Marco di some Mosaics of the time of Con-
Siena, stantine. In the modem Cathe-
Arcivescovato. Tnis Cathedral, dral, and situated opposite to the
commonly called La Chiesa di S. Church of S. Restituta, is the Cha*
Gennaro, the Patron-Saint of Na- pel of S. Gennaro, called // Tegoro^
pies, is a Tuscan-Gothic Edifice, and built in consequence of a tow,
built by Niccolo Pisano : but the made by the City of Naples during
ancient Cathedral, dedicated to tlie Plague of 1 526. The entrance
Santa Restituta, was erected, diir- to this Chapel is through a mag-
ing the reign of Constantine, up- nificent Bronze Door, adorned widi
on the Site of a Temple of Apollo, line Columns of rare marble, and
Charles I, of Anjou, beganthenew Statues of S. Peter and S. Paul.
Cathedral, which was finished in The interior of the Edifice is a Ro-
1299 ; but, being destroyed by an tondo, embeUished with a Cupola,
earthquake, it was rebuilt by Al- painted by Lanfranco MI and sup-
phonso I. The outside is incrusted ported by forty-two Corinthian
with white marble, and ornament- Columns of brocateUo ; between
ed with two Columns of porphyry, which, on festivals, are placed
The inside is not splendid ; though thirty-six silver Busts of Saints,
supported by upward of an hun- executed by Finelli ; and eighteen
dred Columns of Egyptian granite, Busts, in bronze, by other artists.
African marble, ^c, taken from Over the High-altar is a Statue
the Temples of Neptune and of S. Gennaro in the act of
Apollo. The Font, placed near the blessing the people ; and likewise
Great Door on the left, is an an- a silver Tabernacle, containing
cient Vase of Basalt, adorned with the Head of the Saint, and two
the attributes of Bacchus ; (deco- small Vessels filled with his Blood,
rations not veiy appropriate to a supposed to have been collected
Christian Temple.) The High-altar, by a Neapolitan Lady during his
made according to the designs Martyrdom. Here also is a Pic-
of Cav. Posi, is composed of pre- ture of S. Gennaro coming out of
clous marbles, and ornamented with the Furnace, by Spagholetto. The
two antique Candelabra of jasper. Painting in the large Chapel, to
Under the High-altar is a Subter- the right of the High-altar, is by
ranean ChapS, called// Sitccorpo, Domenichino ! — as are the Arches
which contains the relics of S. and Angles of the Ceiling, and the
Gennaro ; and is supposed to be a Pictures in three of the small Cha*
remaining part of the Temple of pels.
Apollo. This Chapel is incrusted The Ceremony of liquefying the
with white marble, supported with blood of S. Gennaro takes place
Columns of the same; and likewise three times a year ; namely, in
embellished with Bassi-rilievi in May, September, and December ;
the arabesque style. Behind the and is an interesting sight to Fp-
Tomb of S. Gennaro is a Statue reigners: if itlique^ quickly, the
of the Founder of the Chapel, joy expressed by the Neapolitans
Cardinal Caraffa, attributed to is great ; but if there be any unex-
(i) Domenichino began to paint the Cupola ; work ; which, from motives pf cnry, w*s
but died soon after the commencement of his obliterated by lAnfranco.
tU .NAPLES. tCKIX.
peottd delaf, the l^ors, pra^ra. These noble vestiges of antiquity,
and ories, are excessive ; as the two Bases of other columns, and
non-performanoe of this miraele is the Trunks of the statues of Castor
supposed to announce some dread*- and Pollux (recumbent figures
lul imjiendiniBf oalamity. half buried in the wall) are on the
Ckte^a dt 8, FUipffo Neri da' outside of the Church; the interior
P, P. Gerolominu This is one of of which is elegantly inerusted with
the handsomest Churches at Na- marble, and ornamented with
pies : the outside being cased with Paintings by Solimene, Massimo,
marble ; the inside lined with the ^c. The Frescos on the Ceiling,
same, and divided into three aisles by Corenzio, were originally fine,
by twelve magnificent Columns of though now much injured ; but
granite. The Pavement is marble, that above the Great Door is in
and very elegant; and the High.- good preservation. The Sacristy
aJtar is eomposed of a^ate, sar*- contains the ohefi-»d^muvre9 of So-
donyx, jasper, lapis lazuS, mother limene ; and the Cloisters of the
of pearl, ^. Here also are fine adjoining Convent are supported
Paintings in the Angles of the by antique Columns, and built
Cupola ; a celebrated, though much upon the Site of an ancient Theatre,
dan^aged fVesco, above the Great where Nero first exhibited in pub-
Door, by Giordano, representing lie ; because he deemed it less de«
our Saviour chasing the Buyers rogatoiy to imperial grandeur to
aiid Sellers from the Temple ; over act with the awkwaraness of a
the fifth Altar, on the nght, S«. Be^nner in one of the Greeian
Twesa with her Carmelites at the Cihes, than in his own Capital,
foot of a Crucifix, by the same Chieia di 8a- Moria Maggiorm.
aiUst ; and» on the opposite side. This Church is said to have been
8. Francesco, by Guido. The erected on the ruins of a Temple
Chapel of S. Filippo Neri is richly of Diana ; and has a well*painted
decorated; and contains, in its Ceihng.
Cupola, a Painting, by Solimene, Chiesa di 8, Pietro h Majdla.
which represents the Saint in The Ceiling of the Nave is finely
fflory ; and on the opposite side of painted by Calabrese !
the High-altar is another Chapel, Ccqopella di 8, Severo. This
the Cupola of which was painted Chapel, the Mausoleum of the
by Simonelli, the subject being Sangro-family, and called S*. Ma-
Judith shewing the Head of Holo- ria della Pietd, is a singular Edi-
femes to his army. The Chapel fioe, decorated with rare marbles,
of S. Alessio contains a Picture and surrounded with Arches ; each
\xf Pietro da Cortona ; and in the of which contains a Sarcophagus,
fiaeristy are Paintings attributed and a statue of one of the Princes
to Guido, Domenichino, Spagno-* of Sangro : attached to every ad-
latto, ^0. The Ceiling is by Gior«- joining pilaster is the Tomb of
dano. the Princess who was wife to the
Qhi99a di 8, Paolo Maggiore. Prince in the Arch ; each being
This stately Edifice stands on the ornamented with a Statue repre-
■He of an ancient Temple, erected senting the most conspicuous vir-
^y Julius Tarsus, Tiberius's Freedr tue of the Lady in the Tomb. One
man ; who consecrated it to Cas-* of the most remarkable Statues is
loir md Pollux. A considerable that of Modesty, covered from
part of the portico of this Temples head to foot with a veil ; through
remained. tUi the earthquake of which, however, the features are
1688 : but now, only two Columns clearly discernible. The sculptor
Bad me Entablature are c^ntire, was Ccffradiiii. Vice undeceivftd
Ch..IX.J NAPLES, • %9$,
18 likewise ft remitrkable work ; it Paintings l^ SolimeQ«» GiordiWOt
Fepresents a Maa canght in a net, luid Paolo Matteis.
and struj^ling to extricate him- Chiesn cU S, MortinQ^, This
self, bv aid of the Genius of Good- Church, which once belong^ to
Sense I the sculptor was Queirolo. the magnificent Certosini Convent,
Here, likewise, is a dead Christ now the Asylum of Military In*
covered with a veil, which seems valids, was built after the design*
damped by the sweat of Death 1 1 of the Cav. Fansaga, and is more
The sculptor was Giuseppe San splendid and beautiful than any
Martino ; and all these works pe* other sacred edifice at Naples :
euliarly merit notice from bemg indeed it may vie with every church
original; as neither Greeks nor existing, in the excellence of its
Romans seem to have attempted paintings, and the value of its
shewing tiie face and form with marbles and precious stones,
distinctness through a veil. The Above the Rincipal Entrance is
Chapel has suffered severely from a Picture, by Massimo, represents*
earthquakes. ing our Saviour dead, and attended
Chtesa d$Ua S, S, Annunciata. by the Madonna, the Magdalene,
This Edifice, which was destroyed and S. John. The Ceiling and
by fire, and rebuilt in 1782, ac- upper part of the Wails of th^
cording to the designs of the Cav. Nave were painted by Lanfiranco,,
VanvitelU, is one of the most except the Twelve* Prophets, by
chaste and beautifiU specimens Spagnoletto, which are particu-
of architecture at Naples. The larly fine 1 1 and the Figures of
Columns by which it is sup- Moses and Elias by the same art-
ported, forty-four in number, are ist. The Choir is beautiful ; and
all of white marble. The Pro- exhibits Paintings on the CeiUng,
phets in the An^ls of the Cupola be^un by the Cav. d'Arpino, and
are by Fischietti ; to whose pencil finished by Berardino, The un-
they do honour. The Pictures finished Picture of the Nativity,
which adorn the High-altar, and immediatelv behind the High* altar,
those bt the Cross, are by .Fraur is by Guido, who did not Uve to
cesco La Mura. A Chapel on the complete it : the other Pictures
right, near the High-altar, is oma- are oy Massimo, Lan&anco, and
mented with a beautiful Piet^ by Spa^oletto ; that of our Saviour
Spagnoletto : and another chapel, administering tiie Communion, (by
near the Great Door, contains a Spa^oletto,) and that of the Cru-
Pioture of the Madonna, our Sa- cifixion, (by Lanfiranco,) are much
viour, and Cherubs, the last of admired. The High-altar is splen-
which are finely executed. The didly adorned; as Ukewise are the
(Ceilings of the Sacristy and Te- Altars of the Chapels. That con-
soro are painted by Corenzio ; and seorated to S. Bruno contains a
the Presses exhibit the Life of our fine Altar-piece, &c., by Massimo
Saviour curiously sculptured in — another Chapel is finely painted
wood, (some parts being gilt,) by by Matteis — ^another, by Solimene
Giovanni di Nola. — another is embellished with tlvee
Chtesa di S\ Maria del Car- good Pictures • namely, S, John
mine — superbly embellished with baptizing our Saviout, bj; Carlo
rare marbles ; and containing Maratta ! S. John preaching, by
(k) Th« Church of S. Martino stands near ttteepness of the ascent, and the almost innu-
the CasteUo di S. Elmo, on the hiU called merabls steps which compoM the foot*waf ,
Monte- Voinero, which risses above the City t^s walk is iistiguiaf. Th* coac)i*iMd is
pf NaplM* Tc» persons who wal)(, the di«- oircuitoof, Wt good,
iance is inconsiderable; though, from the
296 • NAPLES. . [Ch,IX.
Matteis; and the decapitation of seem no lai^r than children*s
the Saint, by Massimo. These to3rs, are with difficulty distin-
Chapels are likewise rich in Sculp- guishable. On one side is Capo
ture. The Sacristy contains a di Monte, and the rich Neapolitan
Ceiling beautifully painted by the Campania ; on another nse the
Cav. d'Arpiho — rresses orna- majestic mountains of 4he Apen-
mented with Mosaics made of nine, with Vesuvius in their front ;
wood, and executed in a masterly while on another lies the wide-
style by a Crerman Monk, in 1620 stretching Bay of Naples, bordered
— a fine Picture of our Saviour on by Portici, &c., on the left, and
the Cross, the Madonna, the Mag- rozzuoli, &c. on the right This
dalene and S. John, by the Cav. stupendous view is seen to the
d'Arpino — S. Peter denying our greatest advantage from that part
Saviour, by Caravaggio!! — and of the Conventual Garden called
our Saviour carried up the Holy The Belvedere *.
Stairs to the house of Pilate, by Caetello S. Elmo^A Fortress,
Massimo and Viviani. The Ceil- originally denominated S. Ermo,
ing and Arches of the Tesoro are and, afterwards S. Erasmo, was
by Giordano! and above the Altar, be^n by the Normans; and is
which exhibits magnificentprecious chiefly formed out of an immense
stones, is a Painting of our Sa- rock, said to be hewn into Subter-
viour dead, with the Madonna, the ranean apartments which extend
Magdalene, S. John, &c., a highly to the Castello Nuovo. Charles
celebrated work, considered as V made it into a Citadel",
the master-piece of Spagnolettol I! On the road from Naples to
The Council Hall contains a Ceil- the Church of S. Martino is the
ing painted by Corenzio — ^the Doc- Villa- FloridianOy which Travellers
tors of the Church, ten in number, usually visit : and about four miles
by Paolo Fignolio— and the Fla- distant from S. Elmo, on a lofty
fellation, by the Cav. d'Arpino ! Hill, stands the Church of the
lie next Apartment contains the Camaldoli ; which commands a
History of S. Bruno round the most extensive View, and is em-
Walls ; with sacred subjects on bellished with Paintings by Cala-
the Ceiling, by Corenzio I The brese, Baroccid, &c.
Corridors of the adjoining Con- Albergo de' Poveri. This im-
vent are composed of marble sup- mense and ma^ificent Building
ported by Columns of the same ; (not yet finished) is an Asylum
and the view from the interior of for Orphans and Children whose
this proudly situated Edifice is en- parents cannot afford to give them
chanting. Immediately below the the advantage of education. Here
Conventual Garden lies the large the Boys are instructed in reading,
flat-roofed City of Naples : whose writing, drawing, engraving, the
streets appear like narrow foot- elements of the mathematics, &c. ;
paths ; wliile the buzz of the inha- and the Girls in sewing, spinmng,
bitants, looking like pigmies, and weaving linen, knitting, and other
the noise of the carriages, which things useful to the poor.
(0 The abominable Neapolitan custom of Maria della Pietii— S. Paolo Maggiore— S.
throwing dead liodies, without coffins, into Filippo Neri — S. Gennaro — the Annnnciata,
burial-place!! under the Churches, renders and the S. S. Apostoli.
those which are most used as receptacles for (m) The Hill on which this Fortr^s stands
the Dead, dangerous to the Liviugf. was anciently called Ermo^ from a Phceni-
Trayellers who wish to visit the Churches cian word, signifying high and sublime; and
least objaetionable on the above-mentioned subsequently aequired the appellation of S.
account, should confine themselves to S«. Ma- JErasmo. in consequence of a Chapel being
ria del Parto— S. Martino— Trinitli Maggiore erected on its summit, and dedicated to that
— o*. Chiara— iS. Domenico Maggiore^-Sa. Saint.
Ch. IX.] NAPLES. . 2^f
Naples contaias several Thea- ternately ; because the same sing-
tres. The Teatro Reale di San Car ' ers, dancers, and musicians, be-
lot the largest and most splendid long to both.
Opera-house in Italy, was so nearly The principal Promenades are,
destroyed by fire, during the year the Villa Reale; ^e Chiaja; the
1815, that nothing but the party- Giardino Bottanico, made by the
walls, and front of the building, re French, and lying in the way to
mained : eleven months afterwards, the Campo Marzo, also made by
however, this Theatre rose from the same nation ; who likewise
its ashes, ornamented with even constructed a Road called/ by
more than its original splendour ; them, Strada- Napoleon, which ex-
and exhibiting six rows of boxes, tends from Naples to Capo-di-
a j)arterre capable of accommo- Monte ; and is a magnificent and
dating six hundred and seventy particularly beneficijd work; as
four persons seated, and above carriages which could not for-
one hundred and fifty standing ; a merly be drawn up the hill with-
stage, the dimensions of which are out four horses, now go con-
immense : spacious corridors ; ex- stantly with a pair ; so that Ihis
cellent stairs; and an adjoining beautiful drive is become, during
edifice, called the Ridotto, which summer, the fiskvourite airing of the
comprises bail -rooms, eating- Neapolitans. The Road begun
rooms, and apartments for gam- by Murat, and extending from the
ing ; the last were constantlv open, Mergellina to the western extre-
night and day, tiU the Hevolu- mity of Capo-Coroglio, is like-
tion ; from wmch period they have wise a beautiful promenade, of
been shut ,up. The Teatro Reale above two miles in length, leaxling
del Fondo is another Opera- toward Pozzuoli ; so tnat persons
house, smaller than San Carlo, who visit that Town are no longer
but handsome. The Teatro de" compelled to go by the old roadj
Fiorentini and the Teatro Nuovo, which passes through the Grotto
are appropriated to Buffa Operas of Posiiipo*.
and Plays. The Teatro di San Persons who have time to spare
Ferdinando is larger than any would do well f o visit the Market
other, except San Carlo. The built by the French in imitation of
Teatro delta Fenice, and the Teatro an ancient Forum Venalium ; and
di San Carlino, are very smallj ornamented by a figure of Abun-
but much frequented on account dance in its centre : (this Market
of Pulcinella ", who exhibits in communicates with the Strada-Tor
these Tlieatres ; a^id is a character ledo.) British Travellers should like-
peculiarnow, to the Kingdom of ytSs^yisii the Chapel of the Crocelle^
Naples, and, apparently, of Grecian in the Chiatamone ; where a Mo-
origin : his pertbrmances are high- nument has been lately erected
ly amusing to Persons acquainted to the memory of the Kev. John
with the Neapolitan dialect. The Chetwode Eustace ; the eloquent
Teatro delta Fenice, and the Tea- and animated author of " The
tro di San Carlino, are usually Classical Tour through Italy:"
open twice, during twenty-four This monument consists of a plain
hours, namely, at five in the after- . tablet of white marble ; on which,
noon ; and again at ten at night, between two pillars, a female figure
The Theatres Royal are opened al- (perhaps representing Italy) stands
(») In Neapolitan, Ifo/ectfncWo. FUh, mentioned by Pliny, as belonging to
(o) Opposite to Capo Coroglio a narrow Vedias Pollio.
path on the left leada down to Reservoirs for
4ia NAPIiBS. [Oh. EK.
IB relief, leaning, in a pensive atti- wholesome, i^id quiet ; a peovQIar
tude, on a tomb i and by her is a advantage at Naplea.
stork, in the act of devouring a The society in this City is not
r^rpent The inscription is in so good as at Rome; neither is
atin, and ends with the following the Carnival so brilliant : hut the
lines; Festival of S*. Maria Piedigrotto,
on the 8th of September, is a sight
♦' Qare^vale! Patrw moMtj (ictemumqw worth seeing'.
r* ^wttStM rftfcw. no% tmniAmiohry Here are several Hotels, and a
considerable number of private
Great care should be taken by Lpdging-houses ; among the for<r
Fereigners to procure good water, mer of which are, The Vittorict-^
a scarce commodity at Naples ; The Crocelle^--The Grand Europa
that of the Fontana-Medina, near — The Gran-Bretagna — The H6'*
the Largo del Castello, and that fel des lies Britanniques ^- and
of the Fontana di S. Pietro Franks' a Hotels
Martire, and its environs, is whole- Mr. Roskilly, on eminent Eng-
some ; but persons who do not lish Surgeon, resides constantly at
contrive to procure water from one Naples, as does Mr. 0-Reilly, like*
of these Fountains, which are wise an English Surgeon ; and at
supplied by an aqueduct, incur the present moment (1827) one op
the risk of being attacked with a two English Physicians reside th««
dysentery, or some other putrid also*
disease. The character of the Neapoli*
The Climate of Naples differs tans appears to have been mistaken
materially in different parts of the by TVav^ers ; who seem incHned
City. Persons who wish for a to think the lower classes cunning,
situation congenial to weak lunffs, rapacious, profligate, and cruel \
should reside in the Fouria. In and the more exalted ignorant>
the Largo del Castello and its en- licentious, and vevengefhl : this,
yirons the air is tolerably soft : but however, is not, generally speak-
in the quarter of S. Lucia the vici- ing, true ; for the common people
pity of the sea, united with the are open-hearted, industrious, cha-
dampness occasioned by a tufo ritable**, and though passionate,
mountain, directly under which the so fond of drollery, that a man in
houses are built, renders the situ- the greatest rage will suffer him-
ation dangerous to invalids, and not self to be appeased by a joke ; and
very wholesome even for persons though a Neapolitan sometimes
in health. The houses on the Chiaja does an injury, from the first im-
are less dangerous than those m pulse of anger, he is not malicious,
the quarter of S. Lucia, because Those among the common people
further removed from the tufo who have mixed much writh Fo-
mountain ; but their situation is reigners are expert in making bar*
too bleak for persons afflicted with gains, and eager to extort money 5
tender lungs. Pizzo-Falcone is but those who have lived chieiy
^.Cj?) On the eve of the Festival of Corpus Thejjoncert beginsi at eight ia the eyeaiofo
Chnsti, the Magistrates of Naples give a and ends at ten. This entertainment is call3
Concert of vocal and mstrameotal music to • Ute Festa di Chiatamone.
the coromon People, in a long and wide street, Qj) It is not nneommoQ to find vtnoaa,
vhich 18 fitt«>d up for the occasion, with Gal- among the lower classes of KeapoliXans, who.
lenes on each side; a Fountain m the centre, from motives of charity alone, adopt and main-
decorated with evergreens and statues ; and, at tain Foundlings ; calling them the Children of
the upper end, a handsome femple, ,n which the Madonna. Charity, however, is a virtue
Sf^H^^Mr'^'^J^**^'^ The street is bnl. found an^on^ all rwJ of permLi ia Fawe!
IjanUy illuminated; and aU these prcpara- Italy, and Mama Graeia ««« w /thwvo,
tions are made within the space of six houra. * ^* ****** '"^•*
Ch.X.)
ENVIRONS OF NAPLES-^BAIiE.
299
amon^ each other display no sueh
propensities; and what seems to
Indicate a good disposition is, that
they all may be governed by kind
words ; while a contrary language
never fails to frustrate its own pur-
pose '. Gentlemen of the church,
law, and army, are well educated :
and in this middle rank may be
found as much true friendship, as
much sterling worth, and as many
amiable characters, as in any na-
tion whatsoever: neither are ex-
amples wapting, among the nobi-
lity, of talents, erudition, and mo-
ral virtue, though such, for a-length
of years, has been the nature of the
Neapolitan Government, that per-
sons gifted with power to distin-
guish themselves have seldom ven-
tured to exert .it. Further, we
should recollect that Parthenope,
long the envied prize contenaed
for by Potentates, and conse-
quently accustomed to a perpetual
change of masters, has lost her
natural energy; and is become,
not from her fault, but her mis-
fortune, irresolute and inconstant ;
although she still retains that
quickness of understanding, and
perfect civilization, for which the
Greeks and Latins have been, from
ages immemorial, celebrated.
Chapter X,
ENVIRONS OF NAPLES.
Ssflursioa to Bai»— 'Virgil's Tomb— Grotto of Posilipo — Island of Nisida — Fozzaoli — Cathtdrftl
— -Pedestal omament^d with l>as8t*rUievi— Temple of Jupiter -Serapis-^Piers of the ancient
Mole-^Mont«>Naovo-«Luerine Lake-^Lake Avernus — Temple of Proserpine — Grotto of
the Camiean Sibyl — ^Nero's Villa and Vapour Baths— CsBsar'g Villa — Baiae — Temple of
Venus— Camere di Venere — Public Baths — Temples of Mercury and Diana Balana — V ilia
of Marius — Piscinae of Hortensius — Villa of Laoullus — Piscina Mirabile — Cape and Port
of Misenum — Cento Camerelle — Sepolcro d* Agrippina— Amphitheatre of Poscuoli — Ex-
cursion to Camae— Solfatara — Sepulchral Monuments of Puteoli — Cicero's Villa— Areo
Felice-<--Anoient Cumae— Grotto of the Sibyls Cumea and Cumana — Tempio de' Giganti'—
Kscursion to the liake d'Agnano— Villa of LucuUut — Baths of S. Germano— Grotto del
Cane — PiseiarelU — Astroni — Excursion to C^serta — Aqueduct — Palace — Aneient Capua—
Exourslgn by night to Vesuvius — best Cicerone — Expense attending this Excursion— Her-
enlaneum, how discovered — description of that City— descent into the Theatre — Excursion
to Pompeii— Destruction of Torre del Greco, ^c. in 1791 — Least fatiguing method of seeing
Pompeii— discovery of that City — Excavations made by the French — Present appearance
of Pompeii — Objects best worth notice there -< Customs and manners of the Modems similar
to thoee of the Ancients — Exeursion to Psestum— time employed in going — «xpense^-Crost-
road *-* High-road— Nocera^CavA — Vietri — Salerno — Passtum; its supposed origin—
WtiBs. Gates, Temples, 49.— Sonnet— Eboli— Convent of La Trinitii— Excursion by wat«r
to- Sorrento — situation of that Town — Accommodations — Antiquities — Climate — Descrip-
tion of the Plain of Sorrento, ^c. — Character of the Sorrentines — Provisions— Lod}«ing-
houses — Massa— Amalfi— -Castel-a-mare — Capri— Excursion to the Islands of Procida and
Ischia.
EXCURSION TO BAI^.
The most convenient mode of
making this excursion is to hire a
caleche, from nine in the morning.
for eight hours, to go to Pozzuoli,
and wait there, till wanted. Hav-
ing driven in this carriage to the
end of the Riviera di Chiaja, it is
(r) Some writers have said that, among the a mistake ; for, in proportion to the popula*
>pulace at Naples, there are forty thousand tion, ttere are not more indigent persons with-
Jemed Irosaroat, from having no home, and out a bed at Naples, than in other Cities of
being consequently compelled to make the Southern Europe.
streets their sleeping-place : this, however, is
a
300 ENVIRONS OF NAPLES— BAI^E, i^. [Ch. X.
usual to dismount, and walk to a hundred and i^ixteen English feet.
Garden, where, situated on the its breadth twenty-two, and its
summit of the arch of that entry to height in the most lofty part eighty-
the Grotto of Posilipo which fronts nine. After emerging from this
the City, stands the Tomb of Vir- singular cavern, the road to Poz-
gil : its shape appears to have been zuoli passes the Island of Nisiday
a cylinder, with a dome, supported formerly Nests, where Marcus Bru-
by a square base, and ten niches tus had a Villa ; and where now is
for cinerary urns : these, however, the Lazzaretto. On arriving at
have disappeared ; as likewise has Pozzuoli, (called, by the Greeks,
the bay- tree by which this Sepul- Diceearchia^, and, by the Romans,
chre was once overshadowed. Vir- Puteoli,) it is necessary to engage
gil's Tomb gave birth to the four a Guide, a Boat for Baise, ^c, and
following and beautiful lines : their a Donkey to go round by land to
author was asked, " whether he the Lucrine Lake : a couple of
would prefer Fame during life, or Torches are likewise requisite for
Renown after death?" to which the subterranean part of the excur-
question he answered thus : sion ; and may be purchased at
" Virgilii ad tumultm dimnipnemia Fatis, Pozzuoli : and, whilc their boat is
Q^llt^ifil^^^^yfin^ou,. Vy^VO^^S' Truvellers usually visit
Sub patJafagitegminevivus eras \" the objects best WOllh notlCC m
The Garden which contains this this Town. Its Cathedral, once a
Tomb commands a magnificent Temple consecrated to Augustus,
view ; and in an Arbour here, im- exhibits large square stones joined
mediately above the English Bu- together without cement, and re-
rial-ground, Travellers trequently mains of Corinthian Columns,
dine. with an Architrave, all of which
On returning hence, it is usual appear to have belonged to the
to drive through the Grotto of Po- ancient Edifice. In the princi-
silipo * ; putting up the Hood of pal Piazza stands a Pedestal of
the Calechewhfle passing that part white marble, found in 1693; on
which is near Pozzuoli, and, at which are represented Figures in
times, damp and unwholesome. &a**o-n7i>«70 personifying the four-
Mention is made of this Grotto by teen Cities of Asia Minor, destroy-
Strabo, Seneca, Pliny, ^c; but by ed, during one night, by an earth-
whom it was formed seems uncer- quake, in the reign of Tiberius ;
tain. At the entrance is a Chapel ; and rebuilt by that Emperor. In
in the centre are two large funnels the same Piazza is an ancient Sta-
cut through the roof to admit light tue, bearing the name of Q. Flavio
and air ; and suspended over the Masio Egnatio Lolliano : and not
road are lamps always kept bum- far distant is the Temple dedicated
ing. The length of the Grotto is to the Sun, under the name of /«-
computed to be two thousand three piter^ Serapis ", a magnificent Edi-
(«) Tlie Author of this Work was favoured, by a friend, with the following imitation of
these lines : —
The glorious plant that crowns the poet's head
Still throws its fragrant leaves o'er Virgil dead ;
But to the lifeless ejre, th* unconscious heart.
What pleasure can its fragrant leaves impart?
Far happier He when 'neath the beechen shade.
At ease outstretchM, his living form was laid.
(i) lUtu^ii mi >.u^nS) the ancient appel- (v) This name is probably derived from two
lationgiven to this part of the environs of N a- Hebrew words denoting the burning fire^ or
pies, means a cessation from sorrow : and no substance. — See Parkhurst's Hebrew Lexi-
spot can exhibit more cheerful beauty than con, 7th edit. 8vo., p. 346.
the Hill of Posilipo. The Temple of Jupiter-Serapis is seen to
(») AtKtutuvia peculiar advantage by torch-light.
Ch. X.] -ENVIRONS OF NAPLES— BALE, ^.
301
lice, erected during the sixth cen- one of the Flights of Steps are two
turyof Rome; but partly thrown Rings of Corinthian brass, to which
down, and completely buried by an the victims destined for slaughter
earthquake, till the year 1750 of were probably festened : the R«-
the Christian era ; when it was ceptacles for their blood and ashes
fortunately discovered by a peasant, still remain; as do the Bathing-
who espied the top of one of the rooms for the Priests, which are
Columns a few inches above- nearly perfect. The c^uantity of
ground ; in consequence of which water in and about this Temple,
an excavation was begun, and the added to the circumstance of there
Temple displayed to view, almost being, within its walls, upward of
entire: indeed, had those parts thirty Small Apartments, several
which were thrown down by the of which resemble Baths, induces
earthquake been restored to their antiquaries to think the Sick and
proper places, this Building would Infirm resorted hither, to bathe in
nave exhibited the most perfect, consecrated water, which the priests
and one of the noblest vestiges of provided ; obtaining, no doubt,
antiquity yet discovered — ^but, alas, thereby, a considerable revenue ^,
the Kings of Spain and Naples, After having seen this Temple,
instead of restoring, or even leav- Travellers usually embark in their
ing things in the state wherein they little vessel, and examine the Piera
were found, have taken away co- of the ancient Mole, a magniiicent
lumns, statues, all, in short, that work, supposed to have been con-
they thought worth removal: neither structed by the Greeks, and re-
have they excavated sufficiently ; paired by the Roman Emperors,
as the front of the principal en- and to which Caligula joined his
trance does not appear to be yet Bridge of Boats. Then leaving on
unburied : enough, however, meets the right, Monte-Nuovo, (formed
the eye to form one of the most in- A. D. 1538, in thirty-six hours, by
teresting objects imaginable. This
Temple is an hundred and thirty-
four English feet long, by an hun-
dred and fifteen feet wide, its form
a volcanic explosion \) it is usual
to land at the Lucrine Lake^ ; be-
tween which and the Lake Aver-
nus * Agpppa opened a Canal of
bein^ quadrangular. Its Pavement communication, forming of both
consists of beautiful marbles, with *' ' " "
which the whole Edifice appears to
have been lined : three of its Co-
lumns alone remain standing ; and
these have been robbed of their
the Julian Port : and in this vici-
nity is the Lake Avemus, the Tar-
tarus of Virgil, described in the
sixth book of the ^neid, and
once so noxious, that if birds at-
capitals : each Shaft is one solid tempted to fly over it, they dropped
piece of cipoUino. Four flights of down dead •. On its banks are
marble steps led to the middle part ruins of a Temple, supposed to
of the Temple; which part was have been dedicated either to Pro-
sixty-five feet in diameter, and of a serpine or Pluto ; and hence, a
circular form ; and near the Site of shady and beautiful path leads to
(jd) The water adjoining to this Temple is
now nsed for medicinal purposes.
(x) The earthquake which produced Monte-
Nuovo ingulphed the Villa^ of Tripergole,
filled up great part of the Lucrine Lake, and
probably destroyed the Oyster-beds for which
It was celebrated by the Latin poets.
. (2^) According to Pliny, a Dolphin, during
the reign of Augustus, freouented this Lake ;
and was rendered so tame oy a Boy, that he
would sit npon-the Fish's back, add cross the
Lake in this manner.
(«) Supposed to be the crater of an extinet
volcano.
(a) Ancient historians assert that no Fish
could exist in this Lake : at present, however,
it abounds with Fish ; and many aquatic
Birds not only fly over it, but repose unhurt
upon its bosom. It was originaUy caUed
Aomot^ a Greek word, which means wUhmtl^
jStcete."-— See Lucbxt. lib. vi.
S62 ENVIRONS OP NAPLES-^BAI^, 4^:. [Oh. X.
what ii d^nominftfed the GroUo of havft been hexagonal without; bnt, .
the Cixmeoan Sibyls supposed to like the Temple of Venus, circulai*
have led from Vii^il's Tartarus to within. Some writers imagine
thi6 Cocytus, Acheron **, Styx, Ely- these three Temples, as they tire
sium, ^c. Through this 'Cavern, now called, made part of the Fub-
(the Grottd of Posilippo in minia- lie Baths* After having examined
ture,) Travellers proceed by torch- them, IVatellers usually return to
liffht, passing what are called th^ their boat ; rowing past the ViHa
Sibyl's BcUhs ; which consist of of Murium, and the Piscines of
three small Chambers decorated HoriemiiiiS, the foundations of
with Mosaics ; but now filled near which may still be disc^ited under
two feet deep with water ; and, water, andf then relanding at Bauli,
after quitting the Cavern, sending and ascending to the Villa of Lu-*
the Donkey by land to Bauli, and cullus, where Tiberius expired,
re-embarkmg in their boat for The Substructions of this Villas
Nero'i Villa ; where it is usual to and the celebrated i?e*ert?oir, called
visit the Vapour Baths ; which Piscina Mirabile ®, consisting of
are, however, intensely hot, and forty-eight Piers, nierit observa*
extremely oppressive : the Neapo- tion ; as does the neighbouring
Ktans use them during summer; Cape of Mi^enum, whose harbour
and the water here boils an egg in contained the Roman Fleet, dom»
two minutes. On re-embarking manded by Pliny the elder, at the
for Baiw, Travellers pass o^AerJ^o^ time of that eruption of Vesuviua
BatJiS, which belonged to Nero's which buried Herculaneum, Pom-
Villa : and the Steps which led from peii, and Stabi«. Misenum was
that Edifice to the sea ; together the principal Port of the Romanf
with the Ruins of Caesar's Villa, in the Tyrrhene sea, as Ravenna
i^ituated upon the north point of was in the Adriatic • and the «um«
the Bay of Bai'se. The first ol)- mit of the Hill on which stand the
ject of interest which presents itself Ruins of the Villa of LuculluS
at Baise is the Temple of Venus ^ commands a fine view of the for»
Oenitrix ; a beautiful Ruin, the raer Port, the Stygian Lake, (for
outside of which is octagonal, the such, according to Vii^, is the
inside circular. The Garden im- Mare morto, or third Basin of
mediately behind this Temple con- this Harboiu-,) and the Elysian
tains Chambers, called Le Camere Fields *, situated on the bauKs of
tU VenerCy which exhibit remains the Mare morto. When returning
of stucco Ornaments finely exe- from the summit of the HiD, it
cuted ; and adjoining to these is customary to visit the Cento Co*
Chambers are Ruins of Public merelle, supposed to have been n
Baths, In this vicinity stand the Prison ; and consisting of several
Temples of Mercury and Diana small Subterranean Apartmentii
BaHana; the first of which is a cir* vaulted, and lined with plaster,
^ular Edifice, nearly perfect ; with After having seen what appear* t6
ftn Aperture in its Dcmie similar to have been the Guard-rooms, and
that of the Pantheon : tlie second is descended into the Vaults, by the
a picturesque Ruin; and appears to aid of torches. Travellers usuaJQy
(&) The Adieron was the Palta Aehenuia parified water, for the use ef the Romau Fleet :
of the ancients ; caUed, by Virgil, from the which water, from being purified before it en*
blackness of its water, Palus TenebroM. The tered the Reservoirs, was not liable to become
Idfeke of Fnsaro is sitnated on the Pahide putrid when kept n barrels.
^cAervMajand, at certain seasons, a Traitenr {4) The Elysian Fields ara snmiosM to
resides near the i4iike, and tupplies TroreUisrs have heen a Roam Bniial^frotAd l&t ptnotk
with dinner. .of <tpn\eme9^
(c) This building contained Reservoirs of
Ch. X.] ENVt&ONS OF NAPLM— CtJMifi, ^.
%n
stop, on their way back to th# niac, from thd volcanic ttubBtanced
'Marina di Bauli, to examine <t found in the crater. Hence it is
double Row of Columbaria; and usual to proceed to the Villa of
then visit lastly what is called It Cicero, of which a Wine-cellaif
Sepol&ho d Agrippina ; though alone remains ; the statiely porticos
probably it was a Corridor of the and spacious gardens described by
Theatre which belonged to her Pliny, beifig all swept away by the
Villa ; for, according to Tacitus, hand of Oblivion. Cicero called
she was privately buried, after this Villa 'the Academia^ from
having been kiUed by order of having composed his Academie
Nero ; and the identical spot Questions here : and here died the
which enclosed her remains is un- Emperor Adrian; to whose me-
known*. mory Antoninus Pius erected a
On returning to Poeraoli, Tra- stately Temple to serve the purpose
vellers usually go (while their era- of a tomb. Between this Villa and
riage is getting ready) to visit the Arco Felice, the road presents
the Amphitheatre, Tnis Edifice, an interesting and picturesque view
though better preserved than any from the banks of the Lake
other ancient Structure at Pozmoli, Avemus, comprehending Monte-
has suffered considerably from Nuovo, the Temple supposed to
earthquakes. Its form is an oval, have been dedicated either to Pro-
ahd it had two stories ; its Arena serpine, or Pluto ; the Lucrine
is about an hundred and ninety Lake, with part of Baise, Misenum^
feet liang, by an hundred and thirty Capri, ^c. ; and previous to arriv-
wide: its Walls are composed of ing at the Arco Felice it passes
large square stones ; and the num- remains of the Aqueduct which
ber of spectators it contained was conveyed water to Cumae, and the
forty-five thousand. Near this neighbouring ViUas. The Arco
spot is a Subterranean Ruin, called Felice, or Gate qf Cumtp, (the
It Laberinto di Dedalo ; but more most ancient City in this part of
probably a ReseifVoir for the water Magna Graecia,) s«-ved also for
used in the Amphitheatre '. a Citadel and an Aqueduct ;
and its summit, if the day be
EXCURSION TO cuMiE, ^. cleaT, commauds a fine view of
the Circean Promontory, and the
In order to visit Cumae, ^c?., it is Islands of Ischia, Ponza, and Van-
advisable to leave Naples about dolena ; the last of which was the
nine o'clock, in a Caleche hired ancient Pandataria, whither Julia
for the morning ; and, on reaching
the Gate of Pozzuoli, it is expe-
dient to engage a Cicerone, and go
under his guidance to iheSolfatara;
in order to see the process of mak-
ing alum^ vitriol, and sal-ammo-
Ce) Many persons extend this excursion, by
Visiting the Theatre of Misenun^ot which part
of the Prosceninm, the Declivity for Seats,
and tlie Corridors remain ; and by likewise
visiting the Grutta Traconaraj a vast Reset-
Toir nnder the Promontory, and t^ Fish
Ponds of iMctdha nnder its western side.
Fliny says, the Ftskes in these Reservoirs, be-
longing to the Roman Villas at Bftl», were so
tame that the^ feA ont •f the hand ; and when
'.called by their fide^rs leaped out of the wa-
ter; tb»t each F1»h knew itsname; and fhat
several of them were decorated w>tJ^ tf «< rti Tn wh
was banished. Remains of the
Via-Consularis, leading from
Pozzuoli to Cumae, are discover-
able on each side of the Arco Fe-
lice; to the right of which is a
Ruin, c£^ed the Temple of the
and ear-rinfs.
(/) ^^^ expenses usually attendant npon
this excursion are, — Caleche, if it go no further
than Poxanolt, two piastres; bot if it |>roceed
to Fusaro, three dacats— Boat with four oars,
three ducats— Cicerone, from ten to twelve
earlini — ^Temple of Japiter-Serapis, two caf-
lini— Baflis of Nero, three or font carltnr—
Camere di Venere, two earlini — Cento Came-
relle, two cariini— Piscina Mirabile, two ca»-
lini— Donkey and Guide, from six to eight car-
Jini It is not necessary to bave a boat Ifilii
foOT oa«, t»lew the piMfty bo larfa.
304 ENVIRONS OF NAPLES— LAKE D'AGNANO, &c. [Ch, X.
Giants^ because some colossal nano. Sec., it is advisable to hire
statues were found within its walls : a Caleche for four hours ; driving
here likewise are considerable re- to the Village immediately beyond
mains of the Cumsean Aqueduct : the Grotto of Posilipo, enquuing
and hence the road proceeds there for the Keeper of the Grot-
through what appears to have to del Cane, and proceeding, ac-
been one of the streets vf Cumce, companied by him, to the Logo
to the Castle; which, judging d'Agnano, once the crater of a
from the large stones it is com- volcano, as appears by iU form ;
posed of, was an ancient Grecian and likewise by the volcanic sub-
work ; and which, during the fifth stances surrounding it. On the
century, when Alaric, King of the banks of the Lake are some re-
Westragoths, subdued this coun- mains of a Villa which belonged
try, was in such good condition, to LucuUuSj who opened a com-
that he deposited tiie spoils of his munication between the sea and.
conquests here, as a place of this Lake ; converting the latter
strength «. After examining this into a Reservoir for Fish. Con-
Ruin, Travellers usually ascend tiguous to the Ruins of this Villa
tiie Hill above it ; where, accord- are the Vapour Baths of S, Ger-
ing to Vir^l, Daedalus alighted, mano, frequented, during summer,
after his flight from Crete, con- by i>ersons afflicted with the rheu-
secrated his wings to Apollo, and matism: and not far distant, is
built a Temple to that god: but the Grotto del Cane, the mephitic
the only antiquities now remaining air of which throws a dog into
here are Baths and Reservoirs for convulsions, extinguishes a lighted
water. From the summit of this torch, and prevents a pistol from
HiU the Acheron is distinguish- goin^ off: but the first being a
able toward the south ; and about cruel experiment. Travellers fre-
four miles northward stands the quently content themselves with
Torre di Patria, on the site of witnessing the two last. The next
the ancient Lintemum, Yrhither object of mterest is the Pisciarelli ;
Scipio Africanus retired ; and a Rivulet of Boiling Water, issu-
where he died. After descending ing from the base of the cone of
from the height which exhibits the Solfatara, and, in distance,
this prospect. Travellers usually about a mile from the Lago d'Ag-
visit a Grotto, called that of the nano. This Water boils an e^g
Sibyls Cumea and Cumana; and in eight minutes, and is stron^y
then return to Naples by the Lake impregnated with alum and vitriol ;
of Fusaro. The Grotto is sup- the latter of which preponderates
posed to communicate with that to such a degree as to produce ink,
on the margin of the Lake Aver- when mixed with gaOls. Every
nus ; and contains an ancient Uttle aperture in the earth round
Staircase, leading to several an- this Hill exhibits sulphur crystal-
cient Baths \ lized, sal-ammoniac, vitriol, &c.
Hence Travellers are conducted.
EXCURSION TO THE LAKE D AQ- i^ the last placc, to Astroni, a
NANO, &c. romantic Crater of an extinct Vol-
In brder to visit the Lake d'Ag- cano, now converted into a Royal
(^)Tarquiniu8 Superbns, after hig expul- master of it. by penetratinr throuirh th«
Bion from Rome, obUined an asylum at Sybil's Grotto : Romualdoll, Duke of Bene.
Cuma. This Town took part in the Punic ventum, took it, in 715; and the Neapolitana
wars, and was ravaged by the Carthaginians: destroyed it, in 1207.
it became a Roman Colony under Augustus. (A) The Cicerone who attends Traraller*
and is called, by Juvenal. " Vaew Cumar during this excursion expects a fee of tea
from having been luinwi by war and pesti- carlini; he fumiahing torches for th« Grotto
l»o«. JXvneo besieged imd made himself ©f the Sibyls. '-'vww
Ch.X.] ENVIRONS OF NAPLES—CASERTA— VESUVIUS. 305
hunting Park. The Crater is dred and thirteen feet*. Superb Co-
walled round '•at its summit (to lumns of gialloantico ornament the
prevent the Game it contains from outside of this Edifice, the prin-
escaping,) and computed to be cipal Court of Entrance to which
about tour miles and a half in is five hundred and seven feet in
circumference. The interior part length, and particularly magnifi-
exhibits solid lava, scoriae, tufo, cent; so likewise is the great Stair-
pumice, and other productions case. The Vestibule to the Cha-
usually found in active volcanos*. pel, and the Chapel itself, highly
merit notice ; the latter contains
EXCURSION TO CASERTA, &c. ^ a fine Picture by Mengs. The
The distance between Caserta }*^f ^he^^^e is decorated with
andNaples (as already mentioned) twelve Columns of basalt, taken
is thirteenmiles: andpersonsgoing ^^"^ ^^f temple of Jupiter-Sera-
from the latter to seethe former P^«' ^^,^ may vie, m pomt of size
place, and intending to accomplish and splendour, witti several of the
the excursion in oSe day, usually ^^ *^^f ^^1 ""^ ^^^'^ ^""^
take fresh horses from the Post- }^^ ^^7^^ Apartments^ in this Pa-
house at Caserta, in order to visit ^^^^^ ^-^^S^ ^' ^"4,^f ^^ifully
the Aqueduct, which is five miles Proportioned, are so lU furmshed
further distant. This celebrated as to be little worth attention,
modem work owes its existence ^ ^bout one mile distant from the
to Charles III, of Naples, who ^^^% f ^^f ^^% '^ . *^' ff
emploved, as his architect, the Manufactory o/S. Leucio ; estab-
Cav.Vanvitelli: and after a Pas- ^^^ \ ^^f^'^^thcrT^ ^^
sage had been cut through lofty ?J?^^% ^^^^^ Patronage. The
mountains, and a Bridge erectecC i^^^^i^^^l^'T ih^^^^
stupendous in height, ani beautiful ^^^^^ ^'ilfp!ul!'.H^^^^
in construction, ^the Waters of '%°^"J^*^-^f,?^,f 'ii^
Nine Springs at Airola, were con- \ ^"^^^ ^^^'^T'J^l^^
vpvpH to Casprta a distance of Situated on a Hill, which com-
yeyea to i^asena, a aistance oi ^^^^^ ^ mjicmifinpnt vipw
twelve miles, by this Aqueduct;
which, computing its sinuosities,
is nearly twenty-seven miles in
length. About three hours must The Author of this Work, wish-
be employed to see it properly, ing to see a slight Eruption of
reckoning the drive to and fro. Vesuvius, which happened in No-
On returning to Caserta Travellers vember 1818, hired a carriage to
usually visit the Palace^ built like- go to Resina (live miles distant
wise by Vanvitelli, at the com- from Naples) ; took a basket of
mand of Charles III ; and in cold meat, bread, and wine, to-
point of size and architecture, the gether with six torches " ; and set
most splendid Royal Residence out, accompanied by two Ladies,
existing : its form is rectangular ; five hours before sunset. When
its length seven hundred and forty- arrived at Resina, the party drove
six feet, its breadth five hundred and to the House of Salvatore Madon-
seventy-six, and its height one hun- na, the principal, and by far the
(t) To the Keeper of the Grotto del Cane, the same day, is three dacats.
and Vapour Baths, it is usual to give five or (J) According to the Naples Guide, pub-
six carlmi ; and to the Keeper at Astroni two lished in 1826, the length of this Palace is 803
carlini. English feet, and its breadth 623.
(ft) It is not necessary to carry a cold dinner (m) Tliese torches are eighteen grani each,
to Caserta, as refreshments may always be if bought at Naples ; and three carlini each,
obtained at the Post-house there. The ex- if bought at Resina.
pease of a Cftleche, for going and returning
EXCURSION TO VESUVIUS.
306 ENVIRONS OP NAPLES-^HERCULANEXJM. [Ch. X^
best informed Cicerone of the The desceht to the spot oti which
Mountain " ; and after dismissing the mules were left was by a pre-
their carriage, and giving direc- cipitous path knee deep m ashes
tions that it should be ready again mixed with scoriae,
in seven hours, at the same place, It is advisable for persons who
to convey them back to Naples, ascend Vesuvius to provide them-
they requested Salvatore to provide selves with strong boots, and stout
mules, guides, and one chaise-h- walking sticks ; unless they re-
porteur; and likewise to undertake solve to be carried the whole way
to pay the guides himself; in order in chairs ; which, though gene-
to prevent importunities for more rally speaking practicable, is some-
than the proper price, namely, times unpleasant,
each donkey and guide one ducat. The crater of this Volcano was
and each chaise-a-porteur, with considerably enlarged by the Erup-
eight men, six ducats. To the tion of 1822 ; and at the present
Cicerone it is customary to give moment (1827) is computed to be
from twelve to fifteen carlini°. three miles and a half in oircum-*
From Resina to the Hermitage on ference : the inside, toward the
Vesuvius there is a good mule- Mountain called Somma, is com-
path, and the ride occupies about puted to be about two thousand
two hours : thence, toward, the feet deep ; though, in some parts,
Crater, during 1818, mules pro- its depth does not exceed twelve
ceeded with safety for half an hundred feet. The height of Vesu*
hour longer ; but, afterwards, Tra- vius was much diminished by the
vellers were compelled to walk, or Eruption of 1822 p.
to be carried in a chaise-h-porteur, ■ . -m
This walk was very laborious, and bxcu^rsion to HSRCULAinEUM.
occupied a full hour: but, on
reaching the little Plain imme- Herculaneum was situated about
diately below the Crater, every five miles from Naples: and at
sensation of fatigue was banished Resina is the descent, made into
by the sight of five distinct this entodibed City ; on visiting
streams of fire issuing fi-om two which. Travellers should take wax
mouths, and rolling, wave after torches with them, (because the
wave, slowly down the mountain. Cicerone seldom provides a suffi-
with the same noise, and in the cient number) and likewise wear
same manner, as the melting Gla^ thick shoes and warm clothing;
ciers roll into the valley of Cha- because the air of Herculaneum
mouni: indeed, this awful and is damp, and the pavement wet
extraordinary scene would have in several places. According to
brought to mind the base of the Dionysius of Halicarnassus, this
Montanvert, had it not been for City was founded by Hercules',
the crimson glare and excessive The Alexandrian Chronicle men*
heat of the surrounding scoriae. tions it as having been built sixty
(n) Salvatore Madonna resides at the Fon- Persons who provide themselves with a cold
tana di Resina. He famishes every possible dinner, and dine at the Hermifage, nsnally
accommodation for ascending Vesuvius ; and pav for a flask of the wine of Vesuviuf,
has a Collection of the Minerals and Fossils ^which is excellent), and the use of a room
of that Mountain for sale. with a fire, about one piastre.
(o) Persons who ascend and descend Vesu- . (p) The ashes ejected by that magnificent
vius by daylight usually give, for each donkey eruption are reported to have contained a
and guide, eight carlini ; for each ckaise-d- small quantity of gold.
porteur^ with six men, four ducats; and to (g) Perhaps founded in honour of the Snn ;
The Cicerone twelve carlini. Sometimes, as the word Hercules appears to be derived
however, six piastres are demanded for a from a Hebrew compound, meaning universal
chaise d-porteur during the night, and fottr jfre, and allusive to the attributes of the sun.
"Piastres daring the day.
CH. X.] ENVIRONS OF NAPLKS-HERCULANEUM, ' W
yeaw before the siege of Troy : sought for by the Prince d*Elbeut
in latter times it became a Roman who was building a house in
Colony. Pliny and Florus speak the neighbourhood. The Prince,
of it as a large and flourishing wanting these fragments of marble
Town ; and some authors conjee* to compose a stucco in imitation
ture that it was the luxurious of that used by the Ancients S pur-
Ci^ua which ruined Hannibars chased of the peasant a right to
army '. Dion Cassius gives the search for them ; on doing which,
following account of its destruc- he was-recompensed with a Statue
tion ; which happened on the of Hercules, and another of Cleo-
twenty-fourth of August, in the patra: this success encouraged
year seventy-nine. ** An incredi- nim to proceed with ardour ; when
Die quantity of ashes, carried l^ Hie Architrave of a marble gate,
£he wind, filled air, earth, and sea ; Seven Grecian Statues, retembliag
suffocating men, cattle, birds, and Vestals, and a circular Temple,
fishes, and burring two entire encompassed by twenty-four Co*
Cities, namely, Herculaneum and lunrns of oriental alabaster on the
Pompeii, while their inhabitants outside, the same number within^
were seated in the theatres.*' The and likewise embellished by Sta-
people of Herculaneum, however, tuesf were the reward of his 1»-
must have found time to escape j hour : in short, the produce of
as very few skeletons, and very these excavations became consi-
tittle portable wealth, have been derable enough to attract the at-
discovered in those parts already tention of the Ne^olitan Govem-
excavated. Some quarters of the ment : in consequence of which.
City are buried sixty-eight feet the Prince d'Elbeuf was command-
deep in ashes and lava; others ed to desist; and aU researches
above an hundred. This seems, were given up till about the year
from Dion Cassius, to have been 1 736 ; when Don Carlos, on be*
the first great eruption of Vesu- coming King of Naples, wished to
vius that the Romans witnessed ; build a palace at Portici ; and pur-
tibough there undoubtedly were chased, of the Prince d'Elbeuf, his
volcanos in the adjoining country, lately erected house, together with
from ages imm^norial ". Dion the ground whence he had taken
Cassius says, that the ashes and so many valuable antiquities. The
dust ejected by Vesuvius daricened King now made an excavation
the Sun at Rome ; and were car- eighty feet deep, and discovered
ried by the wind to Egypt: and buried in the earth an entire City ;
Giuliani ass^s, that during the together with the Bed of a River
eruption of 1631, the ashes were which ran through it, and even
carried to Constantinople in such part of the Water ; he also disco*
quantities as to terrify the Turks, vered the Temple of Jupiter, con-
The spot where Herculaneum taining a Statue reputed to be
stood was not ascertained till the gold ; and afterwards laid open the
banning of the last century ; Theatre, directly over which the
when a peasant, while sinking a peasants well was found to have
well at Portici, found several been sunk. The Inscriptions on
Eieces of ancient mosaic, which the Doors of this Theatre, Frag-
appened to be at that time ments of bronze Horses ^t, and
Qr) The remains of what is denominated Eruptions of Vesuvias as old as tbe fabaloos
aaeient Capua, accord so ill with the elaborate ages.
deseripticMis given of that City, as to fanisfa (t) The fint coat of ancient stseco appeass
a strong jea»0Q for this belief. to have been nuuie of small pieces of briek,or
(») Kodorus Sicukis, who flounced fall marble, mixed with pozaolana and lime.
-CTty ftucu befora tbe Chrwtian eva, ealU tlie
X 2
308 'ENVIRONS OF >JAPLES--HERCULANEUM. [Ch. X.
of the Car to which they belonged brated Balbi, have been already
(decorations probably of tha prin- described. Opposite to the en-
cipal entrance), together with a trance, and elevated upon three
considerable number of Statues, steps, was a Statue of the Emperor
Columns and Pictures, were now Vespasian ; and on each side a
brought to light: but nevertheless, figure in a Curule Chair; in the
in the year 1765, not more than wall were Niches ornamented with
fifty labourers were employed in Paintings and bronze Statues of
matdng these valuable excava- Nero and Germanicus : there like-
tions; in 1769, the number was wise were other Statues in the Por-
reduced to ten; and in 1776, to tico. This Forum was connected,
three or four. Resina (anciently by means of a Colonnade, with
Retina) and Portici being built two Temples, in form rectangular ;
immediately over Herculaneum, and one of them an hundrwl and
the workmen could not venture to fifty feet long ; the interior part
excavate as they would have done being ornamented with Columns,
had the surface of the earth been Frescos, and inscriptions in bronze;
less encumbered ; consequently the and near these Edifices was an
plans of Herculaneum and its edi- open Thecdre^ capable of contain-
fices are not accurate : it is, how- ing ten thousand spectators, and
ever, ascertained that the streets the only building now discoverable,
were wide, straight, paved with lava, all the other excavations having
and bordered with raised footways ; been filled up. By a Passage close
that the buildings are composed of to the Peasant's Well, Travellers
tufo and other volcanic substances ; are permitted to descend into ihu
the interior walls adorned with fi-es- Theatre, The front of the See-
cos, or stained with a deep and nium, or Stage, seems to have been
beautiful red colour, called Tyrian decofated with Columns, Statues,
purple ; the architecture Grecian, ^c, all of which are taken away,
and, generally sneaking, uniform, two Inscriptions excepted. The
The rooms in private houses were Proscenium was found entire ; and
small, and either paved with mo- is an hundred 'and thirty feet long,
saics, or bricks three feet long, and Part of the Stage, and the base of
six inches thick. It does not ap- one of the Columns of flowered
pear that the generality of the peo- alabaster, with which it was adorn-
ple had glazed windows ; though ed, were hkewise discovered ; and
some excellent plate-glass has been in front of the stage, according to
found in Herculaneum ; but al- De la Lande, were bronze Statues
most every window seems to have of the Muses. Fragments also
been provided with wooden shut- were found of bronze Horses, sup-
ters, pierced so as to admit hght posed to have decorated the top of
and air. The most considerable the Wall which terminated the
Edifice yet discovered is a Forum, Seats. All, however, which can
or Chalcidicum. This building now be discerned is the Stage, the
seems to have been a rectangular Orchestra, tl^ip Consular Seats, and
Court, two hundred and twenty- Proscenium; together with theCor-
eight feet long, and encompassed ridors or Lobbies ; some parts of
with a Portico supported by forty- which exhibit beautifulArabesques,
two columns: it was paved with and stucco stained with the dark
marble, and decorated with Paint- red colour already mentioned ;
ings. The Portico of entrance was the impression of a human Face
composed of five Arcades oma- may likewise be discovered on the
mented with Equestrian Statues of Ceiling of one of the Corridors,
marble ; two of which, the cele- This Theatre appears to have been
Ck X.] DESTRUCTION OP TORRE-DEL-GRECO. 309
lined with Parian marble, and built Vesuvius had for some time ceased
about the same time with that at to vomit fire and smoke as
Verona, after the designs of Nu- usual ; a circumstance generally
misius. the presage of mischief : and late
Persons who are fearful of en- in the evening of Thursday, June
countering a damp and oppressive the 12th, me inhabitants were
atmosphere, should not venture alarmed by a sudden and violent
down into Herculaneum; espe- shock of an earthquake, which
cially as they may find, at the Stu- was thrice repeated, continuing
dii, a model of this City ; which, each time about three minutes and
in its present state, is more calcu- as many seconds. This first cala-
lated to appal than please ^. mity produced a general conster-
nation ; insomuch that the people
EXCURSION TO POMPEII. flg^ fr^^ t^eir houses into their
The distance from Naples to gardens, and thence to the sea-
Pompeii is about twelve miles " : side ; where they passed the ni^ht
and as two hours and a quarter in dreadful alarm. Next monung
fihould be allowed for this drive, processions of men, women, and
full five hours for seeing the City, children, were seen barefoot in the
and one hour for resting, and streets of Naples, proceeding to
taking refreshments, it is advisable the Cathedral, to implore the pro-
not to set out firom Naples later . tection of S. Gennaro. FVom
than eight in the morning ; be- Thursday till Sunday the weather
cause Visiters are compelled to was tempestuous, the air hot,
leave Pompeii at sunset. It is loaded with vapours, and at inter-
likewise advisable for Visiters to vals, suddenly darkened for some
carry with them, a cold dinner, minutes ; during which period
bread, wine, plates, knives, forks, there were several slight shocks of
spoons, and rummers ; as nothing, an earthquake, attended by a
except water, a few common dishes, rumbling sound, like distant thun-
a very few plates, and a fire for der. On Sunday evening the in-
boiling vegetables, can be pro- habitants were again alarmed by a
cured, with certainty, at Pompeii, noise so violent that it resembled
These accommodations, a large a continual discharge of cannon ;
dinner-table, chairs, and benches, when, in a moment, burst forth a
axe found in the Forum Nundina- Volcano, not in the crater on the
num. summit of Vesuvius, but toward
The road lies through Portici, the middle of the mountain, on
Torre-del- Greco, and Torre-del- the western side. The explosion
Annunziata ; in the way to the first made every edifice tremble in
of which, is the Ponte Maddalena, Torre- del-Greco, which is only
under whose arches passes the five horizontal miles fi*om this new
Sebeto, anciently called Sebethus, Volcano, at whose mouth issued a
The commencement of this drive column of smoke, that continually
exhibits gardens and vineyards of mounted, and increased in magni-
the most luxuriant description: tude, till it formed itself into the
but, near. Torre-del-Greco, almost shape of an immense pine-tree,
the whole country has been laid This column was sometimes clearly
waste by streams of lava, which, distinguished ; and at others ob-
during uie summer of 1794, de- scured by ashes: it continued
stroyed that Town and its vicinity, augmenting rapidly in circumfer-
(tt) Six carlioi are commonly given be- (p) Tlie hire of a Caleche, for going and
tween the two Persons wito accompany Stran- returning the same dny, is three ducats.
gets down into Hercnlanevm.
310 DESTRUCTION OF TORKE-DEL-GRECO. [Ch. X.
ence, till ti length it began to de- between the Gate and the Con-
cline downward ; when, from the vent de' Padri Francescani ; the
quantity of dense matter which second to the Piazza; and the
composed the column being much third to the Convent del Car*
heavier than the air, the former^ mine, near Torre del Annunriata.
of course, fell to the ground. Tor- Wherever the lava ran, it covered
rents of flaming lava of a por- the country with a crust from
teutons magnitude now poured twenty to thirty ptdmi deep : in
down the Mountain, principally in and about Resma it left, for a
two directions ; one stream, of short time, some few isolated
about a mile in breadth, bending buildings, namely, the Palazzo-
its destructive course toward Torre- Brancaccia, the Chiesa de' Mari*
del-Greco, a Town said to contain nari, and the Convent de' Fran-
«ifi;hteen thousand persons, the cescani ; but these soon caught
other taking the direction of Re- fire ; and five women with one old
ftina; while several small rivulets man, after vainly ringing the church
of liquid fire were observed in di* and convent-bells for assistance,
vers places. Torre-del-Greco soon saved themselves by flight. The
fell a prey to the lava ; which, in Palazzo-Caracciolo now fell a prey
its prog^s, desolated the whole to the flames ; as did every other
hill leading down from Vesuvius, building in the neighbournood of
sweeping away every house, so . Resina, till the whole surrounding
that the terrified inhabitants were plain exhibited one vast sheet of
compelled to abandon their all, lava. The Town of Torre-del
and take refuge in Naples. At Greco likewise was completely bu-
length, the lava, after three hours' ried ; some few tops of the loftiest
devastation, ran into the sea ; on buildings excepted ; while every
whose shores, for one*third of a part of the country through w^hich
square mile, it raised itself a bed the lava ran became a desert ; the
from fifteen to twenty Neapolitan trees being thrown down, the
pcUmi ^ al>ove the level of the houses razed, and the ground, for
water ; and as much, if not more, many miles distant, covered with
above the level of the streets of cinders and ashes ; which last lay
Torre-del-Greco. The reflection about one finger deep in Naples,
from this torrent of lava illumi- On the sixteenth of June the air
Ha&ted the whole City of Naples, was so dense as nearly to obscure
and filled its inhabitants with the Mountain ; but, next day, the
dread; while the other torrent, fire made itself new channels*
which flowed toward Resina, on which circumstance might, pro^
arriving at the Gate, divided itself bably, be the preservation of se-
into three streams, one running vera! fine buildings near Resina \
(w) A Neapolitan palmo « rather more into flames; at which moment fell a shdwer
than ten Knghith inches. of stones for seven or eight mile« round :
(«) An extraordinary circumstance occurred while the cloud gradually vanished. These
at i*»en2a, near Siena, just before the destruc- stones are volcanic ; being composed of grey
tion of Torre-dcl-Greco. Professor Santi, of lava, resembling what is found on VesuvTus :
Pisa, who resided at Pienza when the cir- and Professor8anti, who took infinite pains to
cumstance happened, gave the author of this investigate this pheDomenon Jelt^nfidentthat
Work the following particulars, which may the cloud rose from Vesuvius, which was, at
serve to rescue many ancient historians from that moment, disgorging fires whose force and
the reproach of credulity. effects cannot be calculated: it could not
On the 16th of June a dark and dense cloud have arisen from Radicofani ; because thourh
was discovered at a great height above the this mountain is one continued mass' of Vol.
horiaon, commg from the south-eait, that is, canic rocks, which bespeak it the off^nrinff
in the direction of Vesuvius; which may be of subterranean fire, and thouirh it has been
about two hundred horisontal miles distant sometimes visited by dreadful earthiiuakes
from Piensa. At this height the cloud was still, neither history, nor even tradition re-
heard to issue noises like the discharwj of cords that it ejected flames, smoke, or'va-
cveral batteries of cannon ; it then burst pour, at any period whatsoever.
Ch.X.l POMPEII. 3H
The approaeh from Torre del the year 1750, while they were em^
Annunziata to Pompeii is through ployed in cultivating a vineyard
the Suburb anciently caUed Pagua near the Samo. The excavation
Augustus Felix, and built on each of Herculaneum was attended with
side of the Via*Consularis, which, much more expense than that of
from the commencement of this Pompeii ; because the ashes and
Suburb to the Herculaneum- Gate, pumice-stones,which entombed the
is tanked by a double row of latter, were not, generally speak-
Tombs. ing, above fifteen feet deep ; and
Pompeii appears to have been so easy was it to remove them,
populous and handsome : it was that the Pompeians who survived
situated near the mouth of the the Eruption of the year 79, evi-
Bamus, (now called Samo ;) and dently disinterred, and rescued
may possibly owe its name to thii^ from oblivion a considerable part
circumstance ; because Pom, in of their portable wealth : though
Chaldee, signifies the edge of a they seem to have made no ef-
mouth ; and Peh, in Hebrew, has forts toward repairing the mis-
a similar signification : and as it chief done to then- houses ; an ex-
appears probable, judging from traordinary circumstance, as the
the records of remote ages, that roofs only were destroyed y. These
Pompeii was founded by Chaldean roofs, being fiat, and ill calculated
Adventurers, this derivation of its to sustain the immense accumula-
name is not unsatisfactory ; but tion of volcanic substances which,
as several of the blocks of stone during four davs and nights, were
with which its walls are built, ex- poured upon them, at length fell
hibit marks, for recognition, in the in * ; thus crushing to death, or
Oscian character, that must, at suffocating, those unfortunate per-
some period, have been the Ian- sons who preferred the shelter of
guage of the lower order of per- their own dwellings to what ap-
sons : therefore, admitting the peared the more imminent peril of
Chaldeans to have founded the braving the deadly sulphureous
City, they were evidently ^up- vapours, the appaUing darkness,
planted by the Osci. In .:later and the terrific showers of red-hot
ages it became, like Herculaneum, stones, which pervaded the streets.
a Roman Colony. It was about It is certain, however, that the
two British miles in circumference ; papyri, and several other infiam-
and its Walls, according to report, mable substances at Pompeii, were,
were originally washed by the sea ; . according to their nature, burnt,
though now about one mile distant or melted ; and consequently that
from its margin. The Town, as part of the City took fire : but this
already mentioned, was buried conflagration seems to have pro-
under ashes and pumice-stones, ceeded from lightning % usual in
and at the same time deluged with eruptions of Vesuvius, combined
showers of boiling water, during with an incessant discharge of red-
the year 79 ; and accidentally dis- hot stones from this volcano : and
covered by some peasants, about one circumstance is very remark-
• •
(jf) Suetonius says, that the Emperpr Titus, roofed, narrowly escaped falling in, and bury-
whose benevolent reign commenced in the ing their occuptants, in conseauence of the
seventy-ninth year of the Christian era, en- enormous quantity of ashea ana stones shoV>
deavoured to repair the devastation made, by ered upon the Town by Vosuvius.
Vesuvius, at Pompeii : but, if he succeeded, (a) rliny mentions that, immediately pre-
subseqnent eruptions must have demolished vious to the eruption of the year 79, one of the
his work, of which there are no traces. Decnriones Municipales was struck dead by
(«) During the Eruption of 1822, the houses lightning, at Pompeii; although the heavens
at Castel-a-mare which^ like most of the mo- Were cloudless.
-dem dwellings irf Magna Grsecia* are flat
312 POMPEII. [Gh.X,
able, that neithei' the walls of the of every room are composed of
houses at Pompeii, nor the frescos tufo and lava, stuccoed, painted,
with which they are decorated, and polished ; but the paintings in
appear to have suffered from fire, the large houses are seldom supe-
The most interesting parts, hitherto rior in merit to those in the shops ;
restored to light, of this ill-fated perhaps, however, the ancient
City, have been disinterred by the mode of painting houses, like that
French : who uncovered its Walls, now practised in Magna Graecia,
Amphitheatre, Forum- Civile, Ba- was with machines called siampi;
silica, and adjoining Temples, to- which enable the common house-
gether with the double row of painter to execute almost any figure
Mausolea, on the outside of the or patttem upon fresco walls. The
Herculaneum-Gate. Still, how- ceilings are coved, the roofs flat,
ever, more than two thirds remain and but few houses have two sto-
buried ; but excavations are going ries. The windows, like those in
on daily ; and, were a thousand Herculaneum, appear to have been
labourers employed, it is supposed provided with wooden shutters,
that the whole Town might be un- and some of them were furnished
covered in a twelvemonfi. with glass, which seems to have
TKe streets are straight, and been thick and not very trans-
paved with lava, having on each parent, while others are supposed
side a raised footway, usually com- to have been glazed either with
posed of pozzolana and small horn or talc. Every apartment is
pieces of brick or marble. The paved with mosaics ; and on the
Via-Consularis (which traverses outside of the houses written
the Town) is broad, but most of with deep red mineral paint,
the other streets are narrow ; car- are the names of the inhabitants,
riage-wheels have worn traces in with their occupations, including
their pavement, and judging from magistrates, and ottier persons
these traces, it appears that the of rank : so that if the stucco
distance between the wheels of an- on which these names were writ-
cient carriages was not four English ten had been well preserved, we
feet. The houses hitherto exca- should, at the present moment,
vated are, generally speaking, have known to whom each house
small: many of them, however, in Pompeii originally belonged,
were evidently the habitations of All the private houses are num-
shopkeepers : but most of those bered : and on the exterior walls of
which belonged to persons of a .public edifices are proclamations,
higher class, are ornamented with a advertisements, and notices with
vestibule, supported by columns of respect to festivals, gladiatorial
stuccoed brick, each house pos- shows, ^c. The pubhc edifices
sessing an open quadrangle, with were spacious and elegant, and
a supply of water for domestic the whole Town was watered by
' purposes in its centre ; and on the the Sarno, which seems to have
sides of the quadrangle, and be- been carried through it by means
hind it, were baths and dressing- of subterranean caAals.
rooms, sitting-rooms, bed-cham- The objects best worth notice,
bers, the chapel which contained as they he contiguous to each
fhe Lares, the kitchen, larder, other, are as follows,
wine-cellar, ^c, none of which Villa- Stdmr bona, supposed to
appear to have had much light, have belonged to Marcus Arrius
except what the quadrangle af- Diomedes, The excavation of this
forded, there being, j^toward the Villa, reported to be the first
streets, no windows. The walls building disentombed at Pompeii
Ch.X.] ' POMPEII. 313
during modem days, took place in Part of the ancient flat Roof of
1763 : it has two stories ; the up- the Edifice is still preserved. On
per of which may be entered, from the ground-floor are severalRooms,
the Via - Consularis, by external all nearly in their original state ;
steps, leading to an open Quadran- and here were found Spades, and
gle surrounded with four Porticoes, other Implements of Husbandry,
which rest on fourteen Cdumns. The Garden, likewise nearly in its
This Quadrangle gave light to the original state, is enclosed by Por-
adjoining apartments ; and, by ticoes ; and appears to have had a
means of a large Reservoir in its Fountain with a Reservoir for Fish
centre, two Cisterns beneath re- in its centre. Under the Porticoes
ceived the rain-water, which fell which enclose the Garden are Cel-
on the roofs of the Porticoes, and lars, in the form of Subterranean
supplied the Wells still seen in the Galleries, and containing Ampho-
Quadrangle. (The upper part of rae, filled with and cemented to the
one of these Wells bears Marks walls by ashes. Here were found
of Ropes, employed in drawing up twenty skeletons ; one of which,
the water.) To the right of the being arrayed with gold oma-
Quadrangle were the Guest- cham- ments, is supposed to have been
bers •> ; to the left, the Baths, where the Mistress of the Villa : in her
Furnaces and Flues are still dis- hand was a Purse full of copper
coverable ; beyond these were coins ; perhaps, owing to the ter-
Banqueting Rooms ; and, toward ror of the moment, mistaken for
theGarden,theGallery, the Saloon, gold. Two other Skeletons, with
the Terrace, and small Recesses, a Key and Valuables, were found
where views of the sea and adja- near the Private Door of the Gar-
cent country might be enjoyed. Be- den. On the opposite side of the
hind the Porticoes were Chambers Via- Consularis, are the Tombs of
appropriated to the Females of the the Family of Diomedes.
family, and furnished with a pri- Building appropriated to the
vate entrance to the Banqueting Silicernium after funerals. This
Rooms ; where Vases, Liquors, is a small Structure (on the right,
and a Covered Basket, were found, between the Villa of Diomedes and
together with Rope-dancers, and the Herculaneum-Gate) ; its inte-
beautiful flying figures of Danza- rior was stuccoed and adorned with
trici, painted on the walls. Ac- paintings (now obliterated) of
cording to some opinions this story birds, deer, and other ancient em-
likewise contained. Apartments on blems of death : it contains a Tri-
the left, for Servants and Slaves, clinium Sand a Mensa^ or Eating-
All the Windows seem to have table, whereon the Silicernium, or
faced the Garden ; and one Room funeral repast, was served. There
had a large glazed Bow- window ; " are places -for three mattresses on
the glass being thick, and set in the Triclinium. Previous to this
lead, according to the custom of repast the worth of the Deceased
the present day in Magna Graecia. was extolled ; and his, or her, de-
(h) Such is the name given to this part of Fast by his side Pisistratus lav spread,
the villa : though Guests, even in Grecian (In age his equal) on a splendid bed :
palaces, did not occupy the interior of the But in an inner court, securely clos'd,
mansion ; but were provided either with The rev'rend Nestor and his queen repos'd.*'
coaches, or carpets, spread on the pavenaent, Odysbby, h. iii.
nndcT the Porticoes of the outer Quadrangle. (c) A Triclinium means the place where the
Thus (when relating Telemachus's visit to Greeks and Romans lay on mattresses, while
Nestor) Homer says; they ate; and was so caUed because it held
^ , ... three mat<a:esses only.
" Deep in a nch alcove the pnnce was laid, (d) The Mensa was portable, and frequently
And slept beneath the pompons colonnade ; made of costly materials.
afU POMPEII. ■ [CKX.
parture from this world lamented, is perfect, and eoniaiUs a consider-
The Mourners were clad in white : able number of Niches for cine-
wine was given to them ; but their rary urns.
meal was frugal ; and, according Inn for Peasantry. On the left
to some opinions, only three per^- side of the Via-Consularis are a
sons sat down to eat*. The Tomb Portico and other Buildings, sup-
6f the deceased was decorated with posed to have belonged to an Inn
roses, and other flowers. for the Peasants who supplied
> Tomb of Naevoleia Tyc?ie, and Pompeii with provisions ; and like-
Munatius Fausttts. This is a wise for Travellers in general;
handsome funereal Monument; the because no stranger was permit-
exterior of which presents an Al- ted to sleep within the walls of the
.tar of white marble, el^antly or- City. TTiis Inn appears to have
namented. A BassO'rilievo of the been capacious, and provided with
Bisellium, with which Faustus was horses and carriages ; as remains
honoured, may be traced on one of Carriage- wheels, the Skeleton
of the sides of this altar ; and on of a Donkey, and a piece of
another is the representation of a bronze, resembling a Horse's Bit,
Vessel going into Port. The in- were found here,
terior of the Sepulchre resembles Public Usirina, Opposite to
a Columbarium : and in its Niches the Inn, on the right, is a large
were found a considerable num- open space, said to have been
ber of Lamps, Urns, and Vases of originally the Borial-^round of the
Glass; the last filled with Ashes Samnites'; and which the Ro-
and Bones : perhaps, therefore, mans converted into a Public Us-
this might have been a Public trina. The Place where the Dead
p,epository for the mortal remains were washed, previous to being
of persons who had not private burnt, may still be seen ; as may
tombs. the remains of earthen Vessels
' Cenotaph ofCalventius Quietics. used in this operation. Hence a
This person appears to have been Path ascends to the Site of a
an Augustal or Ma^strate entitled spacious Villa ; which was exca-
to the Fasces. His Cenotaph is vated in 1764, but immediately
in the best style of architecture, covered again; according to the
On the opposite side of the Via- custom of that period. This Villa
Consularis stands a Tomb closed by is supposed, though without suffi-
a door of marble, and having within cient authority, to have belonged
side one solitary Niche; where to Cicero. Porticoes and shops
were found Ashes and Bones, en-r formed its front facing the street ;
closed in a spacious alabaster and within its walls were dis-
Vase ; on which was deposited an . covered, the Skeletons of a Lady
Intaglio of a Stag set* in a large (wearing elegant and costly om^-
ring of gold. ments) and Three Children locked
Tomb ofAridus Scaurus. This in her arms.
Columbarium stands on the right Semicircular roofed Seat. On
of the Via-Consularis : its exterior the left side of the Via-Consularis
displays bassi-riliem representing is a deep Recess, decorated with
Gladiatorial Combats ; its interior stucco ornaments : it seems to
• (e) Aeeordiog to some opinions sacrifices, to to the tnfeinal deities seems, in one instanea
prop>t?iite the infernal deities, were offered in at least, to have been offered at the Tomb
the Siliceraivm, on a circular altar between (/) The Samnites are supposed, at one
the table and the doorway ; but, on excavat- period, to have occupied Pompeii, Neapolis.
ing the Sepulchre of Nistacidius, a Vatte was &c., and according to some opinions the
found plaeed in th« earth, to receive the blood present inhabitants of Naples descend* from
■^^ victims : therefore, the propitiatory saonfic^ them.
Ch.X.] POMPEII. 9U
have been a dovered Seat for foot- smooth* and apparently not Joined
passengers, and skeletons were by any cement ; though placed
found here «. with such skill as to resemUe ona
Semicircular SecUs not roofed, entire mass : while other parts are
On the back of the first of these iU built with rough sU>nes of va<«
Seats is the following inscrip- rious shapes and sizes, and were,
tion, in capital letters ; as are perhaps, nastily collected and piled
all the inscriptions at Pompeii: together after the destructive
" Makhia p. F. Sacerdoti Pvb- earthquake of the year 63 ^ 0«-
LiCAB Locvs Sbpvltvrae Datvs cian characters (as already mcn-
DscvRiONVM Dbcreto/* Behind tioned) may be traced on several
the Seat stands the Tomb of of these stones. The Walls were
the Priestess, Mammea, which fortified with low square Towers :
appears to have been elegantly and the Gates of the City stood
built and handsomely orna- nearly at right angles.
mented : and near it is another Herculaneum - Gate, Pompeii
Tomb, probably that of her father, had four principal entrances*
Idarcus Portius K Nearer to the namely, the Herculaneum-Gate ;
City-gate is a second open semi- the Samus, or Sea - Gate ; the
circular Seat; and to the left of Isiaic Gate; (so called because
the Via-Consularis, on the outside not far distant from the Temple of
of the Gate, is a Path leading to a Isis ;) and the Nola-Gate ; ail of
Sallyport, by the steps of which it which entrances seem to have been
is easy to ascend to the top of the devoid of architectural decorations
Ramparts. on the outside, and composed of
Centry-Box. This small Edi- bricks stuccoed. TheHerculaneum<*
fice, in the form of a niche, and Gate is divided into three Arch«t
elose to the City-gate, seems, judg- ways : the middle division, through
ing from the lance, the crest of a which passes the Yia-Consulans^
helmet, and the skeleton found appears to have been for carriages;
here, to have l)een the station of a and one of the side entrances for
soldier who died at his post ^ foot-passengers coming into the
Walls of the City, Pompeii th^ City; the other for foot-
was fortifi^ by double Walls, one passengers going out of it. The
of which encompasses the City, centre Arch is about fourteen
the* other passes through the cen- English feet and a half in width,
tre of a Ditch made to strengthen and lofty in proportion ; and the
the fbrtification ; and between side Arches are about four feet
these Walls is the broad Platform and a half in width, and about ten
of the Ancients, about twenty feet high. The Via-Consularis,
English feet in width. The Walls within the Gate, is twentv-one feet
are supposed to have varied in broad, exclusive of the K)ot-ways ;
height from about twenty to twenty- including them, thirty- three feet;
five feet, according to the local and consists of large volcanic
level: they consist, at bottom, of stones of various shapes and sizes,
travertin© ; but the upper part is fixed deep in a particularly strong
peperino; some of these stones cement,
being from four to five feet square, /w», probably the Post-house.
Co) According to some opinions this Edifice (t) A Sun-dial of marble was found not
V*» an iEdicula. far distant from the Centry-box, on the out-
(h) Antiquaries suppose that the Tombs in side of the Walls of the City,
the suburbs of Pompeii, on the sides of the (ft) This earfhquake is noticed b^ beneea :
Via-Consularis, contained, with a very few it occurred during tke ninth year of the reign
exceptions, the remains of those persons only of Nero.
who had borne high offices in the State.
316
POMPEII.
[Ch. X.
This is the first building, on the
right, within the Walls: and as
Augustus established Posts, or
what was tantamount, on all the
Consular roads, making Pompeii
one of the stations, this edifice
probably was a Post-house; as
Horses* Bones were found in the
Stables : and Rings for fastening
up horses, with three Cars, and
several pieces of iron, shaped like
the Tire of Wheels, are said to
have been discovered on the pre-
mises. Chequers were'painted on
the side of the principal Door;
which seems to have been con-
structed to admit carriages. Con-
tiguous to this Door are spacious
Rooms, probably for the reception
of merchandize ; other Rooms dis-
playing Hearths, with places for
fuel, and large dressers, for the
distribution of eatables: beyond
these rooms were Apartments for
Travellers ^ Here also was a
Shop supposed to have contained
medicated waters, and liqueurs:
and adjoining to the Inn was an-
other Shop, where Talismans were
sold, as preservatives against that
species of fascination caSed, by the
present inhabitants of Magna Gree-
cia, the MaV Occhio ". The Pojn-
peians believed many persons were
afflicted with an Evil Eye; and
thought it impossible, unless guard-
ed by a Talisman, to be looked at
by those persons with impunity,
llie present inhabitants of Magna
(0 The Inn, according to an Inscription
nearly obliterated, belonged to a person
named Albinns.
(m) The Talismans found in this Shop re-
present Birds, Tortoises, Dolphins, and other
fishes, in gold, silver, coral, and bronz&
The belief of the power of' Amnlets, or
Charms, prevailed in the time of Homer ;
thus Moly is used b}r Ulyssen, as a preserva-
tive against fascination.
(a) Coffee is a native of Africa, supposed
to have been unknown to the Greeks and Ro-
mans ; and not being mentioned by any Euro-
pean Writers engaged in the Crusades, it
seems to have been equally unknown in Syria,
during the thirteenth and fourteenth centu-
ries. It is found wild, from Caffa, the south
province of Karea, in Africa, to the banks of
- he Nile; and was first brought from Arabia
Grsecia indulge a similar l^elief ;
and the dealer in Amulets at Na-
ples enjoys as much custom as did
the dealer in Talismans at Pompeii.
Building on the left, commonly
called a Coffee-house^ ; but more
probably a Thermopolium, or Shop,
for hot medicated potions. Here
we find a Stove ; and likewise a
marble Dresser, with marks upon
it, evidently made either by cups or
glasses ; and consequently the con-
tents of these cups, or glasses,
when spilt, must have been (as
medicated liquids frequently are)
corrosive. In this Shop were
found three small Shelves, placed
precisely like those which hold
liqueurs in Neapolitan coffee-
houses. Shops of the same de-
scription seem to have abounded
in Pompeii ; 'and were all provided
with a stove, and a dresser, for
cups, &c.: they furnished stewed
meat, besides hot medicated po-
tions, and probably answered the
purpose of the Restaurants of the
present day. Hard drinkers, ac-
cording to many, opinions, resorted
to them ; in which case we may
conclude they were provided with
spirits. Vomits (sometimes taken
by the Ancients, that they might
afterwards do justice to ». good
dinner) are likewise supposed to
have been sold here.
House of the Vestals. This
Edifice consists of three distinct
Apartments. The first has an
into Europe about the middle of the fifteenth
century. 1 1 was used at Grand Cairo early
in the sixteenth century; and first mentioned
in the west of Europe hjA German traveller,
who returned from Syria in 1573. Pietro
della Valle, a Venetian, says, in a letter of
his, that he intended bringing some of it to
Venice, where he thought it was unknown.
This berrv, which has now made its way
through the whole civilized world, was first
brought into France during the year 1644 ;
and in 1671, a coffee-house was opened at
Marseilles. In 1652, Daniel lldM'ards, an
Knglijh Merchant, brought with him, from
Turkey, a Greek Fcrvant who understood the
method of roasting and making coffee : and
this servant was the first person who sold it
publicly in London.
Ch.X.] . POMPEII.. 317
open Quadrangle, At the end of tweniy>two ounces, was also found
which is a C hamber where archives here.
are supposed to have been depo- The greater portion of theHouses
sited ; and on each side is a Room, on the right, from the Inn which
probably for the reception of belonged to Albinus to the build-
clients, ^c. at day break ; accord- iiigs opposite the Ponderarium, are
ing to the Pompeian custom. The merely piles of ruins: among them,
second Apartment consists of a however, may be distinguished the
Bathiug-room, and a Bed-cham- House of Caius Ceius ; which
ber ornamented with Paintings ; stands opposite to a Fountain, and
and the third comprehends a dress- is now occupied by soldiers. It
ing -room, a Library, a Gallery, a seems to have comprised Baths ;
Saloon ; and beyond these, a La- probably (from its vicinity to the
rarium, with a place for tlie sacred sea) salt-water baths. The part of
fire in its centre, and three recesses Pompeii on which the House
in its walls. Here the mysteries stands contained subterranean
of the Bona Dea are supposed to Structures, wherein the Pompeians
have been celebrated, and sacri- are supposed to have assembled
fices offered to the Lares Fami- for the despatch of business, during
hares. On the Door- sill of one very hot, or rainy weather ; and
of the Apartments is the word this description of building, called
" Salve," (Welcome,) wrought in a Crypto Portions, was usually
Mosaic : another Threshold is embellished with columns, . and
decorated with two Sei-pents °, furnished with baths and reservoirs
also wrought in Mosaic : a Room for water. Facing the Pondera-
6f very small dimensions has, in rium a Path led to the sea, through
tlie centre of its pavement, a La- a Crypto Portions ; and merchan-
byrinth, or table for playing at an dize, when unshipped, probably
ancient game ; and the Pavement came through this Path to be
of another Room exhibits a Cor- weighed.
nucopia. The Skeletons of a Man Soap Manufactory, On the
and a little Dog were found here ; left, and contiguous to the Ponde-
and in the dressing-room several rarium, is a Shop which, judging
Gold Ornaments, tor ladies, were by the materials discovered there,
discovered. seems to have been a Soap Manu-
Anatomical Theatre. TYiisHoMse, factory; and beyond it are two
contiguous to that of the Vestals, of the Shops for hot medicated
has a large Atrium, terminated by Potions, ^.
a Garden ; and on each side of the Hou^e of the Danzatrici, Paint-
Atrium is a range of Rooms. Here ed on the WaUs of the open Qua-
were found above forty Chirurgical drangle here, were found four
Instruments ; some resembling figures of Danzatrici, (equal in
those of modem times, and others, merit with those of the Villa- Sub-
. of which the use is now unknown, urbana,) and another Painting
Ponderarium, or Custom-house, which represents a Brood of Ducks
A spacious door- way leads into swimming in a Pool of Water,
a Court, where Steelyards were Buildings, a Garden, Cypress-
found, and leaden Weights in trees, and a Youth dancing. At
large numbers. A Weight repre- the end of the interior Apartment
senting Mercury, and weighing is the Lararium ; and to the left of
(o) The Pompeians seem to have looked Pompeii, where they cross each other, are
•upon Serpents as tutelar Genii; and repre- thoueht to have been considered as Amulets
sentations of Serpents, often found painted in capable of connteractins that species of fas-
the honses, and likewise in the streets of cination now called the Maf Occhio,
316 , POMPEIL . [Gil- X.
that, ft Bed-chamber, decorated communicated with the House of
with Paintings of two juvenile Dei- Sallust, it probably was the custom
ties, a Genius holding a Vase for at Pompeii, as it now is in several
perfumes. Warriors on Honeback towns of Magna Gnecia, for land
pursuing fugitive Damsels, Dan- proprietors to sell their wine and
cers, and Bacchanties. This House oil, not only wholesale but retail,
stands in a Vicoletto, or Lane, on The Residence of Sallust appears
the left of the Via-Consularis, and to have been elegantly ornamented,
near another Edifice richly embel- A Fountain of peculiar beauty
hshed with Mosaics, and raintings adorned the Quadrangle ; and op«
of Egyptian Deities, and therefore posite to the door of entrance was
called, by the excavators, the a small Flower Gaiden % in which
House of Isis. the Triclinium for summer dinners
Public Baking Haitse. In this still remains '. To the right of th«
Building, which stands on the left Quadrangle were the Private
tide of tiie Via-Consularis, are four Apartments for the Females of the
Com-myis, a small Stable for the Family ; the entrance to wluch was
donkies, who were blindfolded, and through a narrow passage, with a
em^oyed in grinding com, the door, having interior curtains, at
Oven for baking bread, <^c,, Vases the end. In the centre of these
for water, and Amphorae for flour. Apartments is a Court, surrounded
Heaps of Com were likewise found by eight Columns, and giving light
here. The donkies ana horses em- to the Bed-chambers, the Banquet-
ployed in Magna Greecia for turn*- ing-room, a small Kitchen, a Hot
ing c(nm-mills are still blindfolded ; Bath, ^. These Rooms exhibit
and the Oven in this Baking House tolerably well-preserved Paintings,
varies so little from those made at namely, Diana and Actaeon — ^£u-
present, that it might, without ropa — Phiyxus and Helle — Mars,
much difficulty, be restored to its Venus, and Cupid. The Room
pristine use. which contains the last named
House of Caius Sallust, Lead- Picture is beaut^fuily paved with
ing to the Quadrangle of this Man- African marbles ; and in the Lara-
sion, (one of the largest yet dis- rium, (or one of the Bed-cham-
covered at Pompeii) is a Shop, bers,) belonging to these Private
which was found ftimished wiUi Apartmejits, small gold Statues of
Stoves, Shelves, (probably intend- the Lares were discovered ; as
ed to hold measures for liquids,) were gold Coins, and a Vase of
Dressers, and six Amphorse fixed gold, (weighing three ounces,)
into them. It is supposed to have which probably held perfumes,
been an Eating House, where na- Bronze utensils were likewise found
tional dishes were cooked, and sold in this House ; and, in a neigh-
to the common people: perhaps homing lane, the Skeleton of a
the Amphorae held wme p, oil, salt Lady, supposed to have been the
fish, and olives : and as this Shop Mistress of the Mansion, with
(jpi) The mncients, according to Gluverivk, ties : admitting all this, the Triclinium in Hie
were accawtomed to boil their wines; and, if Garden which made part of Sallust's Man-
80, stoves in wine shops must have been sion must have been appropriated to the men
reouisite. - of the family only; for although the Colamn
(9) This Garden is supposed to have con- whereon the Mensa was fixed, the Triclioiaili,
tained an aviary, for rare and beautiful sing- and the Garden, are all nearly in their origi-
ing birds. nal state, no space for placing chairs round
M We are told that Greek and Roman the Mensa is discoverable. Judging, how-
laaies satin chairs during dinner; while the ever, by ancient paintinn, it seems apparent
men reclined on Triclinia : and hence, at the that the Master and Mistress of a family,
X<ecti8temium, that couches were prepared for when dining together ia private .both rediaed
^e male, and cKairs for th« female Divini- on a Tncliniu|Q.
eh.X.^ POMPEli. 819
Three other Skeletons, according Chymi»f$ and Drugrhfi Shop;
to supposition those of her Ser- Central between the Via-Consu-*
vants. A small quantity of Mo- laris and another street, is this
ney, a Silver Mirror, (which, as Shop ; which exhibits, for its sign;
before observed, Grecian ladies a Serpent devouring the Pine- fruit t
always carried about them,^Intagli, and as the serpent is an emblem
set in gold rings, a Pair of Ear- of prudence and foresight, and the
rings, a Necklace composed of gold pine-firuit of death, perhaps this
chains, and five Kjrold Bracelets, sign was meant to shew that the
were discovered among these two former may sometimes disf
Skeletons — but dreadfimy rapid comfit the latter,
must have been the destruction Restaurant of Foriunaius, Th^
of Pompeii, as the Lady had excavation of this part of tht
not time, when she fled from Via-Consularis terminates here*:
her house, to take even the Lares and contiguous to the Restaurant
with her* ! was a Baking House.
Beyond the house of Sallust, in Residence of the Edile Pansa.
the same line, are a Farrier' 9 shop. In a street on the left of the Via*-
where several articles requisite for Consularis, and leading to the
his trade were found ; a second Public Baths, is this House, one
Public Bakiner House, of abetter of the largest yet discovered at
Construction than the first ; and a Pompeii, and nandsomely deco^
House decorated with Paintings rated with marbles and mosaics,
which represent Musical Instru- It displays an open Atrium paved
ments, and Theatrical Scenery, with marble; and beyond this, a
A piece of iron, apparently be- Peristyle, approached by Steps,
longing to a musical instrument, embellished with Columns, and
was likewise discovered here ; and, having a Reservoir for fish in its
judging from these indications, the centre. On the right are sleeping
House is siipposed to have been rooms ; and in an angle of the
the abode of a Ballet Master : its Edifice is an Apartment with a
Quadrangle displays a Painting of Kitchen Fireplace, similar to those
two Serpents twined round an Al- now seen in the kitchens of Magna
tar, above which is a Lararium. Graecia. The paintings of this
House of Julius Polybius. This Apartment (which, by the bye.
Edifice stands on the right, in the • are wretchedly executed) repre-
Via-Consularis ; and, judging by sent a Cook sacrificing eatables on
the Chequers painted on its wall, an altar ; near which are the Head
might probably have been a public of " a Wild-boar, a Ham, Bacon,
Hotel. The Chequers in question and a Moruna ' fastened to a spit,
are, however, supposed by some According to report, Four Skele-
antiquaries to represent a Chess- tons, of Females, with gold ear^
board. In this vicinity were found rings, were discovered on these
ten Skeletons. premises ; as were several Culi-
tfce IVDOra, paveu wmi ^xiriuau ui»ruics. jnurunmiviu i.uc-uainiiicj. a iie auukciii. viivcwb
(t) If this Via-ConsttUris be, as some an- and Romans, too prone to sacriiice to glutton^,
tiqnaries conjectnre, part of the continuation kept their fishes of every description alive in
of the Via-Appia, by Augustus, (from ancient reservoirs, till the moment irhen they were
of Poinpeii, to the Nola-Gate. posed to require this mixtnre; and somettmeg,
SO The Moruna, called Morena in Italian, a» we are told, it was fed with human flesk,
reported to be a breed of fiA between the (that of sUresO in order to augment its bulk
laad and sea viper, is armed with a sort of ' a&9 flarour.
320 POMPEII. [Ch. X.
naxT UteHsils, both of eaithenware was found a Picture of Venus,
and bronze, a Candelabrum, two somewhat similar to the Venus de'
Vases, the Head of a Faun in Medici, and a Dove at her feet,
marble. Gold Bracelets, Engraved holding in its beak a Sprig of
Stones set in rings, and some Myrtle! The Female Figures in
small Coins of silver. these fine specimens of ancient
Not far hence stands the shop painting have, on what is now
wherein the Colours for Fresco called the wedding finger, Intagli,
Painting, now in tlie Studii at Na- or Camei, set in Rings of the
pies, were found. Roman fashion, and supposed to
House of the Dramatic Poet, be family emblems; consequently
This is by far the most expensively it is conjectured that the Figures
and elegantlv adorned private are Portraits. On this side of the
dwelling yet brought to view at Quadrangle was found a Painting
Pompeii. It stands in a Street to which represents Daedalus flying
the left of the Via-Consularis, is toward Magna Graecia, and Icarus
. nearly opposite to the Public Baths, submerged in the ^gean sea;
and was excavated in 1825. A although a Marine Deity endea-
narrow Vestibule, on the Walls of vours to save him. On this side
which are Frescos, leads to an likewise are several small Rooms,
open Quadrangle, with the cus- decorated with Paintings. One
tomaiy reservou* for rain water in Room contains the representationof
its centre. The Mosaic Pavement aCombatbetweenWarriorsonfoot,
displays, close to the Gate of and Amazons in Cars ; the former
Entrance, the Figure of a Dog of whom are discomfitted. Below
chained ; and under this guardian the Frieze one of the Nereids is re-
of the premises are the Words presented riding on a Marine Bull.
- Cave Canem." * On the Wall Another Room displays an Amo-
of the Quadrangle, (to the right, rino fishing, and presenting the pro-
and near the entrance,) were found duce of his labour to Venus — Ariad-
tiie following Pictures — ^Thetis and ne abandoned — and Narcissus. In
Achilles, the latter as a Child I — a Room, called the Library, are
the Restitution of Helen to Mene- Marine Views — Land Views — and
laus, the former being accompa- Scrolls of Papyri with Greek Cha-
nied by Victory! — and the Part- racters written on them ; all painted
ing Interview between Achilles on the Walls. Scenic Masks make
and Briseis, by far the finest part of the decorations of these
ancient picture known to be in rooms. On the opposite side of
existence ! The lower part is griev- the Quadrangle was found a Paint-
ously mutilated ; but the heads ing which represents a Slave read-
(all of which are superb, and ing a Scroll before a very small
especially that of Briseis) have audience; two of whom, Apollo
escaped mjury. Artists (who alone and Minerva, seem to encourage
are competent to appreciate works him : and it is conjectured that the
of art) class this exquisite Fresco Slave was intended to personify
with the best productions of Ra- Terence. This Quadrangle, or,
phael. On the WaU, to the left, according to some accounts, the
(tt) It was not unusual to see the fi|ure of cept tlie Head of one of the Mjrmidons, and
a barking Dog placed at the feet of the lAres ; the Head and Upper Part of the Figure cf a«
and the Statues of these Household Divinities Female. All the otl^er paintings of eminent
were often clothed with Dogs' skins : perhaps, merit have likewise been removed, except the
therefore, the Dog in question may have some Lower Part of the Figure of Venus with the
reference to these customs. Dove at her feet, and some remains of Fieures
rto) The partinglnterviewbetweeil Achilles in the Saloon. ^
ana Briseis has been removed to Naples, ex>
Oh.X.] POMPEIL 321
Saloon for the reception of com- glio set in a laiige Ring ; and two
pany, exhibited, in its Pavement, Coins ; all these articles are gold,
the most beautiful ancient Mosaic Forty-two silver coins ; various
hitherto discovered : it is composed Utensils of potteiy and bronze ; a
of eight figures ; and appears to Portable Stove, unique in point of
represent the Rehearsal of a Dra- shape, and a magnificent bronze
ma*. Beyond the Quadrangle is Lamp, were likewise found here,
a Peristyle, environed by Columns The Picture supposed to represent
with Capitals of a novel and hand- Terence reading a Scroll, the Mo-
some description ; and terminated saic which exhibits the Rehearsal
by a Lararium, wherein are Niches of a Drama, the Scenic Masks, the.
for the Lares and other tutelary Statue of Bacchus, and the re^
deities of the family. This Lara- mains of a Head of that deity in
rium was enclosed with Iron Rails, Mosaic, are indications that this
or Chains; traces of which are House belonged to a Dramatic
still visible. A small Statue of Writer.
Bacchus was discovered in the Public Baths. The entrance to
Lararium. The Saloon for the these Baths, which were excavated
reception of visiters is on the in 1824, is through a covered Ves-
right of the Peristyle, and was tibule to an Atrium provided with
found decorated with Paintings of Seats made of lava : and in the
Genii, flying Figures, Arabesques, Walls above these Seats are Holes
a Bird's Nest filled with Infant where wooden Clothes-pegs are
JjOves, ^c, ^c. This Edifice had supposed to have been inserted,
two Stories ; in the upper of which On the right of the Gate of En-
were found fragments of a superb trance to tne Atrium is the Tepi-
Head of Bacchus, with other Fi- darium, a large oblong Hall, with
gures, in Mosaic ; broken perhaps a cove Ceiling stuccoed in compart-
by a previous excavation to that ments, the decorations of which are
of 1825 : for immediately after Bassi-rilievi in stucco, so beauti-
Pompeii was buried in 79, efforts fully executed, that one cannot help
were evidently made to find and regretting how few ceilings at Pom-
disentomb the House in question; peii have hitherto been found per-
but these efforts proved fruitless ; feet. In the Walls are Niches of
although the ancient excavators an unusual description, oma-
arrived within two paces of their mented with Small Figures, called
object; as appeared from a hil- Atlantic perhaps because their
lock of earth, mingled with human posture resembles that in which
bones, which had certainly been Atlas is represented as supporting
dug up and examined ; and which the heavens. Some of these
was found, by the modern exca- Niches held Lamps ; and others
vators, close to the House. In the are supposed to have contained
upper story were discovered two essences, and scented oils, for
Necklaces ; beautifully executed anointing the bathers : this Apart-
gold Chains for an Aault ; others ment, merefore, seems to have
small, and equally elegant, for a been not only a Tepidarium, but
child ; two Bracelets ; four Annu- likewise an TJnctuarium. Here
lets, one of which (in the form of is a Skylight in the upper part of
a Serpent) weighs seven ounces ; the Ceuinfi: ; and here also are, an
{our superb Ear-rings ; an Inta- immense Brazier ' of bronze, ele-
(je) This Mosaic has been removed to halls and antechambers, is called, in Italian, a
Naples. Braciere ; and the snb»tance, burnt in it» is
(y) iihis kind of machine, still used by the called Carbonella,
inhabitants of {Naples aadllome for warming
with a fitlle Ot ill BltB-ri^^^i crei»-eoiki, decorated with basiu
(p«haps Apl&,)and1hreeB€nfhts fiHevi, were found on these pre^
of Ironee, with the donor's name raises.
walked upon thettt. Adjoining to to the left of the Public Balhs
the Tepidarlum is the Cahdaiinm, is a imall oblong Piazza, recently
which contains at the upper end, excavttted : tfe-ee of its sides ai^
raii^ed on steps of lna1:bh^, a spa- envktmed with Dwelfin^ Houses?
cictts Oblong Bath of the same and Maf^iines ; one of which Iftvi-
material, for hot waters The Walls dently belonged to a Soapboiler.
iare lined with Fhies, ^ the ad- The lower end of Ihe Piazza seepis
missicn of steam ; and under the to have been provided with ft^ide
^hole of the Pavement is a Cavity^ Portico ; where, on a remaining
afeo made for the adtoission of Square Pillari are Frescos appa^-
^featn. The p:reat Ftenace com- rentlj intended as Sigjn^i to an^
municaied with this Cavity- and nounce the Fuller*s trade> exer^
the Passages whence the steam cised in this Place. One of the
passed under the Pavement, and FVescos represents three large
into the Flues, are clearly cfistin- Vases» partly filled with water,
e^ishable. Asup«bBasin,foimed and a Man standing in each, and
but of one blocK of white maible, washing soiled woollen gairafents
viilh a Jet*.d'eau in the centre, by treading on them. In the same
CTi!aments the lower end of the Hcture is -a Female, probably
Apailment ; and an Inscription in meant as the Mistress of the co*^*•
JelterS of bi-onze announces the cem, seated, and overlooking^ heir
name of the person who, by com* workmen. Above this Picture is
mand of ihe Augustals, superin- another, which represents k Mali
tended the making of the Basin, in the act of scouring a wet^len
and paid for it seven hundred and garment, shajjed Hke the Toga, an^
fifly sestertii*. The Ceffing, which hung on a rail.: and in the same
h coved, and eleganlly stuccoed. Picture is a Man carrying the
has three large Apertures for the Skeleton Frame, (c«dled, in Ita--
fiteission of fresh air, to temper lian, an Attdugapanni, and stiH
the heat when it became excessive ; used fbr drying linen,) but larger
aftd in the Wall above the J^t* than those of the present day.
d'^au are two small Apertures, The Man is represented as having^
Kkewise fbr the admission of fresh put it over his head and shoulders :
axr. At the upj^er end of the he likewise carries a small Vase
Atrium, which, judging by the for Cdrbonelkt, On another sidie
Clothes-pegs, seems to have served of the Pillar is a Fresco which ire^
a^ an Apcdyterium,. or Undress- presents a Press, with shdves, to
ing-room, is the Frigidarium, an hold woollen cloth, (p»hat)s Kneii
elegaftt circular Edifice, with also,) and surmounted by the Eh*
Niches in its Walls, and in its gine for pressing it ; which Engine
Dome, one SkJ^light, which, like resembles those now used to eii^
till the skylights found in these tract oil from baskets of brmsed
Baths, was made with large squares olives. At the upper end of the
of excelletit glass. The Frigida- Piazza is ah ancient Apparatti»
Hum contains a spacious chcular for Washing ; which consists of
Bath of marble ; and behind this large shallow Basins to hoM w»»
Edifice is a Peiistyle, which was ter, wherein the labourers evi-
encompassed by covered Poiticoes. dently stood to cleanse solle4
(s) One letttrtins it supposed to have been eqitivaloit to •ftwillBi i'ee Bigfish
. Ch. X.]' i^MMlIt • $U
woollen firarttients By freadinff on nlins of the fSovferHim Ttmpln^
ifitm. ftteps lead down into Ihesfe In the Grotto ii a Fountain, eonoh
Basins: and here likewise are posed of whU}e maiMe aad cfoeonrik
^mall rinsing: Basins; 81anting' ed with Scenic Masks; and theWal^
Stones, on whieh linen appears tO' ae^ainst the eentve ^f whieii thft
haH^e been beaten, and wai^hed Grotto and Fountain resl^ispiaiitied
i¥ith the h^nds ; a lai*^ Fiat to imitate shrubs acnd flowers. A^
Piece of Marble, whereon linen Side Room contains a PtoNir^ r«^*
gaarments were probably soaped ; presenting; % Scene in a DruhHb
send several small Oblong Parti^ Two Actors are deelaiminfr ;^ md
tions, into some of which water «ach of them wears a Mask^
ifeems to have been admitted ; but three other Figures (Mutes) •»#
their use is not obvious^ These standinsf, in the baek-ground^ with'
last described Frescof^, shewing ont Masks : and on eittier sidis «f
how woollen g«rment3i were washed, this Picture is the Fiffune of an
^7(cite peculiar interest ; because Augustal, seated in li Mttgisleiiiai
they present an image of high an^ Chair. The Insoriptien bn \ha
tlquify: fbr, in very remote a^s, outer Wall of the £mfl<i6 ap|iea]^
the manner of washing was diflfe- to have begim thus ;
rent from the method which seems „ xminrkf viwr
to have been adopted after Imen ^ hoicoivm
came into general use; as we p»i«cvm ri vir i d &c &o.
team from Homer, that in his time and, perhaps, this House belcmgiA
garments were washed by being to the Family of M. Oteonjuvv
trodden upon with the feet, in whose name is seen in letters oi
ftiarble Basins, or Cisterns, called bronxe on the Pavement of th«
^xv99*j or ^9^^oi* : and woollen gar- Odeum.
ments are still washed in Magna The opposite side of the samtf
Graecia, by being trodden upon in Street where this itouse ^Unds^
eistems of water. A Room in one displays another fiewl^ Meavmtm
of the Dwelling Houses at the Mansion, having, at the upp«if end
lower end of thrs Piazza, contains of its Quafdrangle, a Well> inordst*
imall Frescos, in the style of ed With Mosaics. The Walls Of
Zeuxis, Whieh represent ancient the Quadrangle were so beatitif
Cars drawn by Stags, &c. fully painted that one of its Pio-
Adjoining to the^ Fuller's Piazza tures has been removed to N aples ^:
Js a *pactoM*M?7i*ion, recently ex- but several yet remain in theif
cavated, and containing, at the ex- original places, and represent tittf
tremity of its Quadrangle, a small superior gods---(a seated Figure^
Grotto of Shell Work interspersed near Bacchus and a Panther, is
"With Mosaics; some of which composed with exquisite taste)-^
(those of a dark blue colour) being the Genius of Poetnr inspiring fttt
dinilar to what are found near the Improvvisatore— ^a Soesoo Mtf^— >
(is) HotMiTt when s{>eaking of the dfttightevof Aleitiotfs, Fay*;
'* The bloomitfgf prinecfes, with dtitpatchrnl care%
Tunics and htoles, and robes imperial bears :
Then mounting her gay car, the silken reins
Shine in her hand : along the sounding plaiili
Swift fly her mules : norrnde the nymph aloner
Around, a bevy of bright damsels shone.
They st^k the eistems where PhseaTian dWmeV
Wasth their fair garments in the limpid streams ;
Where gathering intodepih from falling rills.
The IuchI wave a spacious basiu fills.*' — ODtss^, ti. Vt.
. ^'^ Tkig'piettam wpptmn tn Ik alleforlRa} ; a female sleepiitg, fiaelf esMHted- iMt ir«tl
it contams sereral tigare»|: aflwng wbi^ii it pRMrvedw
Y 2
324 • POMPEII. [Ch.X. ,
small Landscapes, &c. The Ara- The widest Street hitherto ex
besques in this House are re- cavated at Pompeii leads from the
markably elejsrant ; and some of Temple of Fortune to the Forum
the Capitals of the Columns differ Civile ; and in this vicinity were
in colour from the Shafts. found Shops, containing a large
Contiguous is a small Edifice ; store of Lamps and Glass, toge-
(excavated, in 1826, as were the ther with a Skeleton, and sixty
two Houses last described, and the pieces of Money.
Fuller^s Piazza :) its Walls display Forum Civile. The approach
a considerable number of well to the northern end of this Forum
painted Birds ; and judging from (an oblong Piazza, in extent three
the great number of bronze Kitchen hundred paces, and proportion-
Utensils found here, perhaps this ably wide) is through lofty tri-
might have been an Eating;- tiouse. umphal Arches, one of which
Temple of Fortune, This small stands at the commencement, and
but elegant Structure, excavated in the other at the termination of the
1823, stands near the Public Baths, street last mentioned. The in-
at the junction of two Streets, gress to the northern end of the
Steps of lava, which were fenced Forum seems to have been guarded
with Balustrades of Iron, lead to a by two smaller Archways ; meant.
Vestibule, embellished by four perhaps, in case of civil commo-
Corinthian Columns finely exe- tions, as a defence to this spot;
cuted. The Cella, at the end of but one only of these Archways
which is the High-altar <", appears remains. Covered Porticoes, sup-
to have been incrusted with pre- ported by Columns of Travertine,
cious marbles. A Niche, exhibit- encompassed three sides of the
ing a handsome Frontispiece, pro- Forum ; while a considerable
bably contained the Statue of number of Pedestals, tastefully
Fortune ; and on the sides of the disposed, presented to public view
Cella were found a fine Statue of the statues of those citizens who
a Female, with the face wanting, best deserved the admiration of
and another of Cicero, whose Toga their country. Lai^e slabs of
appears to have been coloured Travertine paved the Porticoes:
with Tyrian purple. The face of and, according to supposition, the
the Figure representing a Female iErarium, or Treasury, the Record
must have been inserted by the Office, the Senaculum, or Senate
Sculptor, after the rest of the Sta- House, the Curia appropriated to
tue was made ; as a Socket, evi- those among the Augustals who
dently cut to receive it, still re- had cognizance of sacred matters,
mains *. On tlie Architrave of the the Comitium for assemblies of
CeUa, was found an Inscription the people, and the public Grana-
sisnifying, " that Marcus Tullius ries, always stood in the Forum
Cicero, son of Marcus, erected, at Civile. Here the most important
his own private expense, this Tem- subjects, relative to the commerce
pie to Fortuna Augusta." Apart- of the Colony, were discussed ;
ments appropriated to the sacer- the national festivals and religious
dotal ministers of the goddess solemnities celebrated; and here
were on the right of the Temple, were seen the imposing processions
in which was discovered a slab of of theCanephorse. At the northern
marble recording their names. end of this once splendid Forum»
«
{c\ This was not the Altar whereon public Temples,
sacrifices were usually offered : for, that all (tfl These Statues have been removed from
the people might > witness these solemnities, the Temple of Fortnne to the Court of tk«
they took place in the Vestibule of Greek Temple of Bonulus.
Ch. X.]
POMPEII.
325
and placed in a commanding situ-
ation, are remains of a stately
Temple, supposed to have been
consecrated to Jupiter ; and like-
wise to have served as a Senacu-
lum % an iSrarium, and a Depo-
sitory for public Records. A
magnificent Flight of Steps, now
almost destroyed by earthquakes,
with a colossal statue' on each
side, led to the Vestibule ; which
seems to have been quadrilateral,
spacious, and handsomely orna-
mented by six Corinthian Columns
above thirty feet in height ; and
here it is supposed that sacrifices
were offered, and the people occa-
sionally addressed by then* magis-
trates. The Cella of the Temple
had, on each side, a Corridor,
supported by eight Ionic Columns :
it is terminated by three Cham-
bers, which probably held the
public money and records. Be-
yond these Chambers ran a Pas-
sage with a Staircase leading, per-
haps, to a Terrace on the summit
of the Edifice. The Walls of this
Temple appear to have been paint-
ed m compartments; and the
Pavement is remarkably elegant >.
Recent excavations have re-
vealed the Prisons contiguous to
the Temple of Jupiter : and near
the Temple of Venus were disco-
vered the public Measures of Ca-
pacity ; models of which may be
seen in this part of the Forum :
the originals are removed to the
Studii at Naples**.
(e) The Roman Senate could only assem-
ble in consecrated edifices : and as tne Decu-
riones Municipales represented the Roman
Senate at Pompeii, they probably adhered to
the Roman law, and held their courts within
the precincts of a temple.
(/) Remains were found of 'these colossal
statnes.
(^) According to report a Sun-dial was
disciivered in the Forum, near this Temple.
(A) These Measures are cylindrical per-
forations ; the bottom wa.s fal»e ; and, when
removed, allowed the measured com to escape.
They were discovered amonjf ruins of a build-
ing which appears to liave been upward of an
hundred feet in length, and probably was a
Fnblio Granary. — See Sir William Geli/s
elegant and instructive Work upon Pompeii.
On the rip:ht of the Temi^ of
Jupiter stands a splendid and spa-
cious . £difice consecrated to Ve-
nus ; but subordinate, in architec-
tural merit, to the Temple of Ju-
piter. The shape of the Temple
of Venus is quadrilateral. The
Court, or Vestibule, was encom-
passed with covered Porticoes,
supported by forty-eight Columns
of tufo stuccoed, and of the Co-
rinthian Order, but not well pro-
portioned *. A Herma resembling
a Vestal, and a considerable num-
ber of Paintings ^, are seen here :
and in the centre of the Court is
an Altar of Travertine, placed be-
fore an isolated Cella, in which
were found the Statues of Venus
and Hermaphroditus, both finely
executed. A Flight of Steps,
fourteen in number, lead to the
Cella : they seem to have slid from
their proper situation, owing to an
earthquaKe ; and the Altar in the
Court has the same appearance ^
Contiguous to the Cella is a Pri-
vate Apartment, which contains a
well preserved Painting of Bac-
chus and Silenus ; and here like-
wise is a small Recess, supposed
to have been a Lararium.
A narrow Street divides the
Temple of Venus from the Basi-
lica or principal Court of Justice
for capital offences, which like-
wise served as an Exchange. This
majestic Structure communicated
with one of the Porticoes of the
Forum, by a Vestibule, originally
(t) The Columns are supposed to have
been originally of the Roman Doric Order ;
though sub.sequently transformed into the
Corinthian, by roeautt of stucco.
(ft) Some of these Paiuting^s represent Egyp-
tian Landscapes, with Pigmies feeding Ibisex.
(/) All the Kdifices in this part of rompeii
must have suffered more from the earthquake
which preceded the Kruption of theyear 63,
than from the Eruption of the year 79, as the
repairs, going^ on at the very monient of that
Eruption, evidently prove. Antiquaries be-
lieve the Forum Civile to have been disen-
tombed by the Pompeians immediately after
the Eruption of the year";*; and thus account
for the small number of moveabk treasures
found here, by modern excavators.
|Eiel!Q8e4 ^'iih GsAe$ of breeze or Fmum, and neajr ihe Bftsi)kf«i, 8r«
ir&n. Ste|»s lead &om this Vesti* three Edifices, originally lined witb
h^ie to th^ interior .of the £di£ee ; enable, and diaplajdng brick Wall^*
v^di is of a quadrilateral form, in so perfect, they seem only just ccHfn*
l^jigtb Q^ar two hiusdr^ ]^g^sh pleted. These Edifices were pro*'
jfeet» APd in breadth above seven^ bably dedicated to pubhe ysef ;
ty^. The WaliU aone ornamented ^d that in the centre a|^ears Xq
wttb C^irii^kthian Pilasters ; and on have been un^nished, or r^aifioi:«
^%ch ^ide was a Corridor, held up when buried by the erup^on o| 79.
% Coli^mjQs of bridt stuccoed, A Janus, resaaips oi which may
a^ a^potsed to have (H'iginally be traced* stood in this part of t|i9
supported jca^lleries. The centre FcH'um : and hei>e ^e seen various
^ the Eclifice exhit)its two rows sorts of marble, appajrently W^r
of Corinthiwi Columns, twenty* pared for new buildings ; together
^igllt in nurob^, MFhich, aepording with a Pedestal, which seems, k^ai
to ef)nj€^tw^ as^sted to sustain the In-seription it beaas^ to have
the m^, At ithe upper ^d of the supported ihe Staifcue of one of Iht
C^ii^rt is $1 tribunal, ^vated e-bput Sallust Family ; and another Pe»
9»yim f€^ %•«!» the jpa^vement, and destal inscribed with the lett«r«
i4$wnied with six Comilhian Co- * • C. Cvspio C. F. Pamse." Judg«
lj^n9« whidi inclosed the plftee k^ &om Marks in the Pavem^t,
^ppr^riaited to the l[>uuinvir ; and the entraiiace to the southern end
vteeDCj^ fr»m the «urule ch.air« of this Forum was oceasionally
hie p^-pnouipbced his decrees ; having closed by G.ates of bronze, or Iron.
fir^ plod^^ himself at the altar The (^posite side to that embel-*
to d#$»de m conformity wiih law lish^ with the Basilica and the
aod conscience v. Immediatdy be- Temple of Veaus^ displayed, behind
oeath the Tribunal is a subterra- its Portico, sev^al splendid edifieea;
ni^m Apartm^^ $uppo9ed to have am^ng which were the Chaleidi'>
been the Prison whcur^ criminaJL$, mm, the Temple of Romulus, the
^<^UisMtp the Jiasilio^to be tried. Curia. ^ assembles of thos^
were conined provisionally, till am^ng the Augustali who had
<iQ|led upojs, one py one* to receive cognizance of sa(if^ matters* asid
judgment: m4 in the Court, be-^ the Pantheon.
Vw th^ Puumvir^s Podium, is a Crypto Portieus and Ckalei^i^
larg^. Pedestal, <eividently intended cum huiU by liktmachia. In <mier
liftr the eupptort of an l^uestrian to enter by the Ciypto Porlieus, il
al.etue, the I^ga of which only is necessaiy to quit the Forum
wore found. Some of the Columns Civile, and pa^s a short distance
in the. S^silica ar« so much more down the broad Street, called the
modern than the rest of the Build- Corso, where, on the left and over
ing, that it seems probable they the ingress to what was crigin^ly
were raised to repair part of the a covered Passage (and probably
ravages made by the Eruption of subterraneous,) is the following
the year 6S. On an outside Wall Inscription : —
of this Structure, (that "Wali whiph
feces a House exeavated by Gene- " eumachia. l. f. sacerd. pube..
r.^^Championet,)the word ** BASr nomine sue et pf. numistr. t,
Sit-ICA" may be discovered, frontonis. fiw, chalcidicum
written in two places with red paint. crypt am portic us concordi-«
At the southern extremity of the augustwB pietati sua pequ-
- <m) The preeiw leii?th is an hindred and (») No sfeps lead to th« Tribnaal { wliieh
ninety- two KngVuA faet, and the precis* must therefore have been asceaded by P<M-t*
kveadth Mventj-two. able litMn.
roM?«ii^
III
mA FS«I9 94Afic^m DBBi» Um Status of Conoord; ^x^ nH
GATI9." the flat ground enopmpassod witq
the i£dicula and the Porticoeis wai^
TTiis Pasaiage. or Crypto Por- occupied by a rectangular whit^
tieu9» leads to a spacious Portico, Marble Baisin of shallow waters
where, in 1820, was found tl^e fUrnished with Scouring-blocks of
Statue of a Female habited as a Mfhite marble, and a Channel for
the conveyance of tosh water mi^t
the Basin p. The Portico, on^n
adorned by the Statue of Eurnain
chia, and situated behind the Mdi-
cula, communicates with the othev
Porticoes : and the whole Chalcin
Antiq|aaries, therefore, conclude dicum was richly embellished wit)i
that the Priestess Eumachia con- precious marbles, arabesques, ^.
Veaial ; and on the Pedestal of t))e
Skatue the following Inscription :
" EUMACRTA. L. P,
SACERD. PUB.
FULLONES/*
ftrueted, at her private expense, in
her own name, and that of her Son,
a Qhalcidicum and Crypto Porti-
eus, dedicating them both to Con-
cord, and appropriating the Chal-
ctdicum to the use of the Ful-
lers who washed and blanched
Temple qf Romulus* Bncl)
Walls, apparently very ancient|
inclose a Court, at the upper end
of which is a Cdla, elevated abou j
nine feet from the pavement, and
containing the Pedestal of a statue,
On the Pavement stands a hand-
Magisterial Vestments and those some Altar of Parian marble, or-*
of the Sacred College *"; and that namented with a beautiful Bmso^
the Fullers, as a token of grati- riHevo, supposed to represent Ci-
tude, erected th^ aforesaid Statue, cero as a Sacriflcator. This £di<)
This Chalcidicum is rectangular, fice is commonly called the Temple
its style of architecture Roman, of Mercury % but Signore Carlo
and its Front faced the Forum Ci- Bonucci, m his work, entitled
Yile ,' fron^ which was an entrance '* Pompei desoritta," calls it the
to tha interior of the Chalcidicum^ Temple of Romulus ; because, at.
•onsistiiig of a splendid Court, one its entrance, was discovered a pe-^
himdred and ten Paris feet in destal, which supported the status
length, fifty in width, and bordered of the Founder of Rome ; and also
by spacious Porticoes, ornamented because there was on this pedestal
with forty-eight exquisitely wrought an Inscription, defaced in soma
Columns of Parian marble. These parts, but thus made out : '* Ro-
porticoes were elevated on steps, mulus, the Son of Mars, founded
some parts of which are cased Rome, reigned over that City near
Yi\\\i white marble, and other parts forty years ; and after having killed
unfinished ; but the slabs, pre- Acron, King of Cenina, and dedi->
pared for casing the unfinished cated his spoils to Jupiter Fere*
parts, were discovered on an adja-. thus, was received among the gods,
cent spot, where they may still be and denominated, by the RomanSj
aeen. At the upper end of the Quirinus."
Court, in a superb ^dicula, stood Curia for the discussion qfmat^
(o) Th« Vitals, or PriesteMM, were Uoe Wa»h*d their fair garmente in the days ttf
AeuovinAted.— See T. \4^ v . Lib. I.
(p) This Badin pre<;i^ely answers the de>
ecnption given by Homer of the Basins, or
Qitfceoii, in whiok the Yv^ias l^aom wa«hed
tlieir garm^ntst.
- Each gushing fount a marble Cistern fills.
Whose polUh'ilbed receive;^^ the faUing rills.
peace.
HoMiB's Iliads B. XXII.
Where Trojan
Greece,
Dijunes. ere yet al&rm'd by
(9) Perhaps so called because sone authors
suppose the Original name of Pomprtl to hive
been l^ompami an appel^tion given lo Mer-
cury : and \\ the Town wa^ called after the god
of commerce and wealth, it is natural to ituar
gine one of its ^9a% Xem^ flight be dedi-
cated t^ him.
328 POMPEII. . [Ch. X.
ters relative to Belieion, by the Superior Deities are seen on Olym-
Augustals, This Building, which pus watching over and protecting
is semi-circular and open to the the Infant Heroes. On the left of
Forum Civile, contains Seats,^ and the Sanctuary is an -ffidicula, pro-
Niches for statues : and judging vided with large Altars of marble :
from its site, shape, and decora- and here were found upward of a
tions, it seems to have been the thousand Coins of bronze, with
placeof meeting for the Augustals, forty-six of silver. This iEdicula
to whose care matters of a sacred (perhaps used as a Sacristy) ap-
nature were intrusted. pears less ancient than the rest of
Pantheon, Adjoining to the the Edifice; and near it is along
Curia stands this spacious Tem- narrow Podium, perhaps used as
pie ; the excavation of which was a Pulpitum. Tlie Walls a.t the
begun in 1821, and finished in lower end of the Court display
1822. Its form resembles that of numerous and well preserved
the Serapeon at Pozzuoli ; and its Paintings ; among which are — a
open Court, in length one hun- child sleeping — Ulysses and Pene-
dred and eighty Paris feet, and in lope ! — ^Thaha instructing a young
breadth two hundred and twenty- Actress — the Genius of Painting
eight, exhibits an Altar surrounded inspiring a Painter — ^Theseus pre-
by twelve small Pedestals, on which senting the Sword of his Mher,
were placed Statues of the Twelve JEgeus, to his mother, -^thra! —
principal Divinities of the Ancients, a Genius guiding the helm of For-
A row of Chambers, twelve in tune — a Female Musician — Snaall "
number, occupies one side of the Landscapes — Sea Views — Build-
Court ; at the upper extremity of ings — ^and Arabesques. On one
which is the Tribunal, or Sane- of the Walls of the Entrance to
tuary, containing four Niches : this Temple are little Loves, beau-
and nere were discovered the Hand tifully painted,
and Arm of a Statue, the former A Small Shop, situated in a
grasping a Globe, and therefore Lane behind the Sanctuary of the
supposed to have belonged to a Pantheon, contains a Painting
fi^ire of Augustus ; the Statue of similar to the Bride and Bride-
Livia in her meridian of youth and groom in the Aldobrandini Mar-
beauty; and the Statue of Drusus'. riage; and another little Picture,
On tne right of the Sanctuary wefi preserved and beautiftilly exe-
(which, according t o some opinions, cuted. This part of the Town like-
w as dedicated to Augustus) is an wise exhibits a Shop furnished with
. Apartment containing a Triclinium, a Stove and marble Dressers; in
supposed to have been devoted the latter of which several earthen
to the use of the Haruspices ; Vases are fixed. This Shop, being
and to receive the blood issuing decorated with a coarse Fresco,
from the entrails of victims, are representing Fishes, is supposed to
small marble . Gutters, placed at have belonged to a Vender of Salt-
the base of the Triclinium, which fish and Olives, who kept these
inclines toward them. The Walls commodities in earthen vases filled
of this Apartment are decorated with fresh water, according to the
with Paintings ; one of which re- present custom of Italy and Magna
presents Laurentia nursing Romu- Graecia.
lus and Remus, while the Twelve Hoti€e adorned tcith a Mosaic of
(r) These statnes of Li via and DruKas have of the Pantheon ; and therefore it seems pro-
been removed to the Studii, at Naples ; bat bable that the most precious contents of this
copies of them may be seen in the Sanctuary. Temple were disentombed, and taken away.
The statues of the twelve superior deities immediately after the Eruption which bari«d
were not fovnd during the recent excavation them.
Ch.X.] . POMraill. 329
Dogs chcuing Wild-boars.^ Oppo- Fountain, which was supplied by
site to the Crypto Porticus, in the water brought in a Canal from the
broad Street already mentioned, Samo. On the right, at the end of
stands this Edifice, which had a the broad Street leadine toward
covered Atrium : and here the the Theatres, is a House first sub-
Mosaic Pavement, which repre- mitted to public view in presence
sents Dogs chasing Wild-boars, of the Emperor, Francis II. A
may still be seen. handsome Peristyle, some ^ood
House of the Graces, Pictures Frescos, Vases of bronze, ^ass,
of Urania — the Graces — Venus and ierra-cotta, gold ear-rings,
and Adonis — &c. were found here, and a piece of salt-fish, which re-
together with Chirui^cal Instru- tained the smell of an animal sub-
ments of a simple but excellent stance, were discovered here,
construction* This House belong- Portico of entrance to the Tri-
ed to an Accoucheur. angular Piazza of the Tragic
Lane containing a representa- Theatre, This Edifice is adorned
tion of the Twelve superior Deities by six columns of tufo, the Capi-
of the Ancients. Near the last tals of which seem to have been
named House, on the same side of handsome ; and its Front, accord-
the way, is a Lane where, on a ing to an Inscription on a Pedestal
Wall to the right, may be traced a found here, was ornamented with
Fresco, displaying Juno, with a the statue of Marcus Claudius
pomegranate and a blue vest ; Marcellus, Son of Caius, the Pa-
Diana robed in yellow; Apollo tron of Pompeii. The statue,
and Jupiter, both having red dra- however, has not been found,
pery ; Venus robed in green ; Vul- Beyond the Portico is a long
can and Mercury in red ; and Colonnade occupying the side of
Neptune in blue. Vesta, Minerva, the Piazza on which is seen the
Ceres, and Mars, may likewise be Upper Entrance to the, Tragio
' distinguished in this Picture ; be- Theatre,
low which, is a Fresco representing Temple of Hercules '. This
two Serpents, the tutelar Genu Structure (called by . antiquaries
usually seen (as already mention- Etruscan, and evidently more an-
ed) wherever streets intersect each cient than any other Temple at
other at Pompeii. Pompeii) is supposed to have been
Every part of the broad Street, thrown down by the earthquake
which leads from the Forum Civile of the year 63, rebuilt, but again
to the Chalcidicum and the Thea- demolished in 79. The ruins
tres, is bordered by innumerable prove, however, that it was once a
Shops, and other Buildings, dis- stately Grecian Doric Pile, which
playmg the names and occupations stood on a quadrilateral Platform,
of the persons by whom they were with five gigantic Steps on eveiy
once inhabited, written with deep side leading up to it. The Plat-
red mineral paint ; and on one of form still remains ; and is com-
the outside WaUs of the Chalcidi- puted to be about ninety-one feet
cum may be traced the Ordinances long, by about sixty-eight wide,
of the Magistrates, the Days ap- Traces of immense, fluted' Co-
pointed for Festivals, &c. written lumns also remain ; and beyond
with the same mineral colour. In the Platform, and nearly fronting
every part of the Town, yet exca- the east, are Three Altars : that
vated, where crossways meet, is a in the centre is small, and proba-
(<) This Temple it, by some writers, sup- tore, it certainly resembles the Temple of
posed to have been consecrated toNeptnne: Nepluue at-^""'*"'"
and in situation, shape, and style of architect
FsQstttm,
Uf Md A* sMfl«d ire ; fliose en Water of th« fiJWBD, MMfarofiM
tlie skks are lar§^ low. aod shaped to suppfy the lowar part of Ui9
like saioophagL The latter kind Town, and particululy the last
of altar, ealled Ara, being, when named Forum,
aacrifiees were made to the terres- Tribtmal wokich took cogmiztme^
trial deities, the place on which <^ matten of pr^perhf^ and venial
the Tictims were burnt'. Conti- fences. In an open Court, en*
fooBs to these Altars is a Icgr, compassed on three sides with
fMssiTe circular Structure, $»r« Porticoes, is a Platf<^rm (asomded
rounded by short pieces of broken by Steps) on which rests a Pul-
Done Columns, and resembling pitum, where the Magistrates ad«>
the Receptacles for sacred ashes, ministered justice; after first pledg*
usually found within the precincts ing themselves, on the Altar ber
of lieathen temples ; but reported oeath their elevated Seat, to decide
to have borne an Oscian Inscrip- according to consdence : and th<|
tion, which signified, *' that Ni- contending parties, yrhose causes
trelHus, thrice High Priest, or came before these Magistrates,
Chief Magistrate, erected this Pe- likewise pledged themselves to
nstylium** (according to the same speak trutli, and act honourably
report) over a Bidental *, the name by their opponents. Tribunals of
given to a sgoX, struck with light- tnis desci^tion were usually placed
ning ; and the$e spots, being ob- near Theatres and F<Hiuns ; and
jects of terror to the Ancients, the Edifice in question is supposed
w^re frequently inclosed, and ex- to have been erected at the eX"
mat<Mry altars raised upon them, pense of the puUic-spirited perr
Contiguous to the Temple of Her- sons who built the Tragic TheatrQ.
eules is another Builduig, which Temple of Isi^ It appears from
probably was a Pen for aniyni^ly an Inscription found here, that
destined to be sacrificed ; and the this Edifice was thrown down \}j
opposite side of the Piazza contains the earthquake of the year 63, and
a Semicircular Seat, decorated with rebuilt bv Numerius Popidius Cel*
lions' paws carved in tufo, and sinus. It is about sixty-eight teet
x:e«embling the Seats near the Her^ long, by sixty feet wi& ; in good
eulaneum Gate. preservation ; and peculiarly well
Upper Entrance to the Tragic worth notice: for to contemplate the
Th^re. This Ingress has been Sancta Sanctorum, or Cella,whence
restored, according to the ancient so many oracles have issued, to
qiodel; and fi'om an Inscription discern the identical spot whexe
here, we le^m, that the Theatre, the Priests concealed themselves.
Galleries, and Corridors, were all when they pronounced sentences
erected at the expense of two Pri- supposed to have been spoken by
vat^ Persons, for the advantage of the statue of their Goddess, to view
the Colony. A Flight of Steps the secret stairs by which they as-;
leads from this Entrance to the cended into the Cella, in short, to
Poatscenium of the Theatre ; and examine the construction ol aTeoi-:
another Flight of Steps leads from pie more Egyptian than Greek,
•file Trian^ar Piazza to the Forum excites no common de^ee o^ in-*
Kundinarium\ Not far hence terest*. This Temple is a Rpmai^
was the Great Reservoir of the Doric Edifice, composed of bricks
(0 The Altare, K) called because AiflA, was was held every nine days. See T. liv.
11i« place on which sacriJices were offered to Lib. III.
the Celestial Deities. (w) The traffic between the Pompeians and
. (m) Bidente» weif fucn^c^d w Bidental*, AleaaadxiaM ia aspposcd to h»T« give* ri»«
■nd hence the name. to tlM wonbip «C law at P«n]i0ii.
(v) in Forama thus denominated, a Fair ^
(3b. X}
PQMPRll.
t3]
stuoeoed, patnM, $s^ polished.
The CeUa steads on the summit
of sev£» Steps, {onee lined with
Paijan m«u^k,) ia the eentpe of
the Area^ which was surrounded
by Porticoes, The form of this
Oella is nearly square, ineludii^
what seems to have been a Vesti^
buie; and its Walls, whieh are
provided with Niches for statues*
display, amon^ other ornaments
in stqeoo, the Pomegranate, called,
ija Greek, p««, and one of the em-
blems of Isis. The Pavement is
Mosaic, the interior of the Build-
ijkg shallow, and occupied by an
Oblong Altar, or Pedestal, for
tStatues: this JPedestal is hQllow»
and the cavity was entered by low
ooor^ways* contiguous to one of
which are the Secret Stairs. The
Stotue of Isis stood in the. Cella ;
and on each side of the Steps,
leading to it, are tbe Altars where
the Isiaic Tables (now in the
Studii at Naples) were suspended.
Two quadrangular Basins of Pa*
rian marble, tor puri^ing water,
were likewise tbund in, or near
tb^ Cella, each standing on one
foot of etegant workmanship, and
bearing this Inscription ; ** Lonqi-
»us II ViR." At the extremity
of the Area, fronting the entrance
to the Cella, was found* in a Niche,
the Statue of Orus ; according to .
iigyptian mythology the Son of
Isis and Osiris, and the god of
Silence'. Here likewise were
found Bones of Victims, remain-
ing on the Altsjr where sacrifiuea
were offered ; and near which are
the Heceptaele for sacred ashes,
and the Reservoir for water wherih
In the Priests performed their ab-
■ (») A profound silence was observed dnring
K^yptian sacridcea.
' (ju) The Apartment eontaintny the bronze
Rin;^, was filled with ashes, by the last limp-
fion of Vesuvius, in the yeir 1832 1 but is
situated at the Eastern End of the Temple
df itiis.
(«) Plutarch tells us that the Priests of
i^lt ate no animal food but tish ; and passed
an austere life, offering prayers to their god-
dess twice a day, morning and eTenlag. ,Otk«r
hitionfl. Steps lead de^n to t)Mi
Reservoir, which is covered bjp
what appears to have been an
iSdieuk. Other parts of the Tem->
pie exhibit small Altars, and seve-
ral Chambers; one of which*
where a large braize ring wa«
fo^nd, might probably have been
stp^oimated to the Ox, Apis';
anoth^ was the Refectory; 14
which the Priests were dinmg at
the moment of the Eruption. Re-
mains of Wine, £ggs. Bones of
Fishes, Ham, and Fowls, togethev
with a ^#d garland of fiowerss*
were found on and near the din*
ner table, when the Temple wa^
excavated ^ Burnt Bread wa4i
likewise found in the Refectory;
^nd, in the Kitchen, Culinary
Utensils of creta-cott0t containing
remains of l^atables, together with
a Skeleton leaning against ^
Wall, and grasping an Ax. One
Priest seems to have loaded him*
self with the treasures of the Tem-
ple, and fled ; but wajs ova'taken
% death in the vicinity of the
Tragic Theatre; where the exca-
vators of 1812 discovered hi$
Skeleton; accompanied by threo
hundred and sixty Coins ot silver*
forty-two of bronse, and eight of
gold, wrapped in cloth so strong
as not to have paished during
the lapse of seventeen centuries \
Here likewise were found larga
silver Vases, evidently sacrificial,
^d ornamented vf iih Bcisn-rilUid
representing Isiaic Ceremonies,
8mall Spoons, Paterae, Clasps*
and Cups of silver. Cups of ffold,
p. rare and valuable Cameo. Prer
cious Stones set in rings. Vases of
bronze, &c. Some of these un?
writers mention that these Priests never ate
onions, abstained from salt with their food,
and were forbidden to taste the fleah of i>ht*ep
or hog.4 : it is likewise said that their nightf
were ttaaally spent in dsvotion, near the sta-
tae of Isis ; and if the^e accounts majr be en-
dited, it does not seem' probable that KaoI'
bones were found in the Refeutory.
(a) Perbtpa the same description of olatli
with that in which Mammies were roUt;4 up ;
ftBtl which, saems HBp^rishable.
332
POMPEII.
[Ch. X.
fortunate Priests of Isis caught up Sculptor's Shop. In the Quad-
the sacred hatchets, and attempted rangle belonging to this House
to cut themselves a passage several Statues were discovered;
•through the walls of their Tern- some being half finished, and
pie ; others are supposed to have others only just begun : and pro-
been sufPocated while they slept ; bably, if the whole habitation were
and others either had not time to thoroughly excavated, a few of the
escape, or felt it a dereliction from statues injured by the earthquake
duty to abandon their goddess, of 63, might yet be found ; as we
In the year 1765, when the Temple have reason to suppose they were
of Isis was excavated, its wsdls sent hither for restoration. Seve-
displayed paintings of that highly ral blocks of unworked marble,
venerated Egyptian Divinity with and various Tools, now preserved
the Sistrum ; Anubis with aDog*s in the Studii at Naples, were like-
Head ; Priests with Paku Branches wise discovered here,
and Ears of Com, and one Priest Comic Theatre, This Ediiice,
holding a Lamp ^ ; the Hippopota- constructed witii tufo, and sup-
mus, the Ibis, the Lotus, Dolphins, posed to have been the Odeum
Small Birds, and Arabesques ; and for music, is semi-circular, small,
within its precincts were found but nearly perfect ; and was co-
Statues of Isis, 'Venus, Bacchus, vered by a Roof resting upon Co-
Scc. ; two -Egyptian Idols in ba- lumns, between which were aper-
salt ; Sacrificial Vessels of every tures for the admission of light,
description ; Candelabra, Tripods, The Cavea (or place for the audi-
and Couches for the Gods '. ence) is intersected by Steps lead-
Ten^e of Maculapius, The ing to the summit of the Building,
style of architecture, similar to In the seats nearest to the Orches-
that displayed in the Temple of tra sat the Au^stals, Magistrates,
Romulus, proves the little Edifice and Knights ; behind them sat the
in question to have been very an- mercantile part of the Colony ;
cient. A large low Altar, made of above these were the populace of
tufo, and ornamented with a Doric the male sex ; and hignest of all.
Frieze, is placed in the centre of a in the Gallery, or Portico, sat the
small Court immediately below female spectators,Vestals excepted,
the Cella ; and resembles the The Orchestra (a large open space
Sarcophagus of Scipio Barbatus,
seen in the Vatican Museum. The
Cella is placed on a Platform, as-
cended by nine Steps ; and seems,
between the Cavea and the Pro-
scenium) was probably appropri-
ated, in this Theatre, to Musicians
only, though in Grecian theatres,
if we may judge by the traces of not particularl^r dedicated to music,
columns still discernible, to have the Dancers and the Chorus occu-
been covered with a roof. Here pied that space **. ' At each end of
were found Statues of iGsculapius, the Orchestra is a Podium, in one
Hygeia, and Priapus, all of creta- of which sat the Vestals, in the
cotta. other the ^dile * who presided
(b) The Priests in these Paintings are re-
presented with heads shaved, garments of
white linen, and woven shoes, through which
the feet are seen : history, however, tells us,
that the priests of Isis were obliged to walk
barefoot.
SO One of these Coaches was made of ivory,
too much injured to admit of reparation :
the other, made of bronze, has been restored ;
and is now placed in the Studii at Naples. .
(cO The Orchestra (O^x^*^) ^^ ^^
Greeks is supposed to have been what in mo-
dem continental theatres we call the Parterre.
The Proscenium seems to have been wliat we
denominate the Orchestra : the Scenium was
the Stage; and the Postscenium the place
where the machinery of the theatre was pre-
pared for exhibition, and where the actors
ojessed.
(«) The exhibitions, both in theatres and
amphitheatres, were under the guidance of
the iSdiles Majores.
Cb. X.] POMPEII. 334
over the entertainment. The Or" merical letters* " ib,** beneath it
chestra is paved with marble, and On the other Ticket is a Greek
exhibits the following Inscription word, (which seems to be " Hemi-
in letters of bronze : — cyclia,") with the Roman numeri-
" M. Olconivs M.F. Vbrvs cal number " XI," above it, and
II ViR Pro Lvdis." the Greek corresponding numerical
The Proscenium consists of two letters, i* lA," below. Both Tickets
dwarf Walls, with a very narrow exhibit, on the reverse side, a rough
interval between them. The Sce^ sketch of a theatre '.
nium is terminated by a lofty Wall, Tragic Theatre. This Edifice,
with a Large Door of Entrance, which stands upon a stratum of
for the principal persons of the very ancient lava, is considerably
drama, in its centre, and a Smaller lai^er than the Odeum ; and, in
Door of Entrance, for the inferior point of architecture, a beautiful
characters, on each side. Behind building : it was composed of tufo»
the Scenium are remains of At- lined throughout with Parian
tiring-rooms for the actors. The marble, and still exhibits the Or-
Staircase by which Female Spec- chestra, the Proscenium, tlie See-
tators ascended into the semi-cir- nium, the place where, probably, a
cular Gallery, or Portico, at the drop-scene, or curtain, was fixed ;
top of the Cavea, is quite detached the Podium on the risht of the
fi:om the Steps by which the other Orchestra for the presiding Magi-
sex passed mto their respective strate, (in which a Curule Chair
Seats. The outside of the Edifice was found ;) the Podium on the
bears an Inscription importing, left for the Vestals ; the seats for
" that the Duumviri, Gains Quin- Augustals, and Knights, in the
tius Valgus, Son of Caius, and lower part of the Cavea, and those
Marcus Portius, Son of Marcus, for Plebeians of the male sex in
by virtue of a Decretum Decurio- the upper part ; the Entrance for
num, defrayed the expense of erect- Augustals and Knights, the En-
ing the covered Theatre, and ap- trance and Stairs for Plebeians ;
proved the manner in which t^e the semi-circular Gallery, round
work was done '." the top of the Cavea, for Female
Two Admission Tickets, for the- Spectators ; (which Gallery ap«
atrical representations, have been pears to have been fenced with bars
found at Pompeii. These Tickets of iron, as the holes in the marble,
are circular, and made of bone : and the remains of lead, used for
on one of them is written, " aicxt- fixing these bars, may still be dis*
AOT ;'* and above this word is covered ;) the Stairs of Entrance
marked the Roman number, "XII," to this Gallexy ; and the Blocks of
with the Greek corresponding nu- Marble, projecting from its wall,
(/) ThU Theatre saffered so much from the occupy. This circamstance is related bjr
earthquake of the vear 63, that the Pompei- Suetonius. The arrangement of the aadienc«
miM were compelled to repair and new roof it. was as follows. Perstooi of Consular rank.
Roofed theatres, however, were not common and Vestals, being few in number, occupied
among the Ancients : whose scenic represen- the two shortest lines of seats, elo^ie to the
tations appear to have been exhibited by day- Orchestra, and sat on curule chairs, or bi*
iigbt, in bnildingM open at the top : and when sellii. Knights, being likewiM few in number,
tlae Campanians invented awnings for the- compared with Plebeians, occupied the short-
atres to temper the heat of the sun, they est lines of stone benches ; (theae were imm»-
were reproached for their effeminacy. ^iately behind the curule chairs, and btselUi.)
(a) Augnstus, in order to prevent confusion Plebeians, of the mnlf sex, occupied the
witn regard to places for the audience in uppermost, and consequently the longest,
theatres, decreed, that all the different ranks lines of stone benches : while the female part
of peraons, in the respective Cities of the of the audience. Vestals excepted, were placed
JLoman Gi&pire. sliould be provided with in the portico, or gallery, near which stood
tickets, specifying the part of the theatre, and the officers appointed to keep order,
the aamber of the seat they were entitled to
3d4 P6iH*««. [t*. X.
so as to support tlie wood-worfe to oecupiefs o^-^i« I^ontm, Jo whil*
which, in case of rain, or intense away their tacant ho«n^s. "Within
heat, an Awning was fastened, the Porticoes are Apartments of
The Sceniiim,jildging by the niches various dimensions, supposed !♦
il contains, appears to have been have Served as Shops and Maga-
ftdomed with statues'*; the Pro- zinesformerchatidise; some of the
scenium, a dwarf Wall, with Niches, largest being ftbooft fifteen Uset
pierhaps, for mu&icians, on the side square : and Above these Roonii
next the Orchestra, cTivides the was a Second Story, which app«ar»
lAtter fVofli the Stoiium ; which, to have been pi'ovided With Wbodaf
like a modern stage, rises higher at Balconies. In one Magasine watf
the upper than the lower end ; it found art Apparatus foir tmkiiag
is considerably elevated above the soap, in another a Mill for pulver-
Orchestra, very wide, but so shal- izing Com, and in another, it Ma-
low that much scenery could not chine for expressipng OiU On tlMi
have been used ; although the An- eastern side of this Forum wer»
cients changed their scenes by aid Stalls for CattJe ; and in the Prison
of engines, with which they turned or Guard-House, were found Ske-
the jMirtition, called the Scena, letons with their Ancle-bones fhst-
round at pleasure. There are three ened into a Long, Low Machine,
Entrances for the actors, all in made of iron, and similar in shapa
front ; and behind the Stage are to the modem wooden frame (ftj#
remains of the Postscenium. punishment) called Stocks. In th«
This Theatre stands on the side Soldiers' Quarters were found Sk^
df a hfll, according to the custom letons, Shields, other military We»-»
6f the Greeks ; and on the summit pons, and a Helmet, (probably,
of this hill was an extensive colon- that of the commanding oficer,)
nade, already mentioned, destined, on which i^ beautifully stulptured
perhaps, to shelter the audience, in the Bestraction of Troy*. Th4
wet weather; and likewise to serve soldiers and offfcers seem to havg
as a public promenade, the view it died together at their post ; victims
commands being delightful. to. the severity of Roman disci-^
The Comic and Tragic Theatres pline. This Forum contains ftFoun*
stand near each other ; and conti- tain of excellent water, a small
guou^ to a public Bukdmg, sup- ancient Table, and likewise a large
posed to Irave been modem lUble already mention^^
- The Fbrum Nund^iramtm. This and shaded (most appropriatelv)
Forum is of an oblong shape, and by weeping willows, so as to make
bordered by Porticoes, supported a pleasant dining-place in warni
by Roman Dorife Columns without weather K
bases : they are composed of tufo^ Amphitheatre. In the centre of
stuccoed and painted, either red or a spacious Piazza, (probably a
yellow, as was the general practice Circus for chariot -races,) stands
at Pompeii. These Columns (the this colossal Edifice ; which eon-
lower parts of which are plain, the tains twenty-four rows of seats, is
upper fluted) still display figures reputed to have held above ten
in Armour, and Names of Persons, thousand spectators, and, when
traced* no doubt, by the ancient newly disentombed, was so perfect,
(A) The Partition Wall between the At- the Helmet, Shield, &c., were found. Was
tiring-rooras and the Sceniom, was richly probably the <»iiard-f'.on8e.
embeilitilied with i:)tatueti, Columns, &r., for (A } 1 he Model uf the i^toelCR, the Sknlb tf
ft tragedy; and for a comedy, with Cottages; the persons whose Kkeletonii were foditd itt
Sttd other Pastoral Objects. them, and some of the half-aainhed Scalptam,
(0 Aucient Formns were always guarded disieoyered ui th« Stfttttftry'ii Sftop, am iiMt
1>y soldiers, and therefore the place wherein lier«.
ffmt the Paintings on Hhe stticcb«i! hat^ t)m Ecfifide, aVid was ftirw
Wall, surrounding the Arena, ap* nished with a circle of CoTered
peare^ as fresh as if only just Boxes, not found iii other amphi*
finished ; but, on being too sud- theatres. These Botes were appro^
denly exposed to the air, the stucco priated to Female Spectators •
cracked and fdl off, so that rery persons ef distinction being plaeea
ftw Paintings nbw remain. The m one half of the circle, and thos6
fbrm of this Amphitheatre is Dvali of sul)ordinate ranic opposite to
1h* iarchitecture particularly fine, them. Blocks of Stone, piereett
ihsomuch that the earthquakes of to receive the wood- work which
the years 63, and 79, neither in- supported the awning, are seen irt
jured its foundation, nor its su- the upper part of the circular
perstrticture. A handsome Corri- Wall of this Gallery, which cem«
dor, onte eml>effished with statues, mands a magnificent prospect of
the Nidies and Inscriptions be- Vesuvius, the Montes Lactarii, the
longing to which still remain. Site of Stabi», the Mouth of the
leads dov^n to the principal En- Samo, and the beautiful Bay of
trance*. This Corridor is paved Naples: — and from this GaJlery,
with lata. The Amphitheatre rests on the twenty-fourth of August,
upon a cireular Crypto Porticus, in the year 79, the Pompetans and
Ot incredible strength, as it sup- Occupiers of the adjacent Towns *•,
ports the whole superstructure, who were then assembled in th^
An iron railing seems tb have Amphitheatre, are supposed to
protected the spectators who sat have witnessed, with surprise and
^n the first row ; and tlie En- dismay, (rising from the Crater of
trances to the Arena appear to Vesuvius,) that terrific Cokitnn of
have been defended by grates of boiling water and volcanic sub-
iron. An Ingress for the Gladia- stances which suddenly transform -
tors and Wild-beasts, and an ed this majestic Amphitheatre, and
Egress for the IDead, may be seen every nersjhbouring Edifice, into a
in the Arena. The Walls of the barren HiD of pumice-stones and
Podium, when newly disentombed, ashes. But as very few, if any,
displayed beautiful Paintings- but, h^man skeletons have been dis*-
on being exposed to the air, they covered here", it seems probft-
were destroyed, like those in the ble that the persons thus provi*
Arena. Above a Flight of Steps, dentially warned of their danger^
leading to the upper seats, is a ran without loss of time to the
Basso-ritievo (in marble) which adjacent river, embarked in what*-
represents a Charioteer driving ever vessels they Could procure,
over his Opponent i and above the put to sea, and saved their live*
Seats is a Gallery, which termi- by flight*. Pliny the Elder, whil*
•
(/> AmoBg tlM Stataes was that •£ C Gas^- Regalus: and these exhibitioaa were, in eoa«
pins Pan-sa, Senior, whom the DecttrioDea sequence, prohibited at Pompeii for the space
latnisted with the execution of a law raacted of ten ywtrs." See Tacitits's vfaiMrft;
by the Consul Petronius, during the reign of Book 14.
^trrr, to prohibit masters from oompelling (ii) Aeoording to one report, Skeletofna «f
their sfoves, except when under sentence ot eight Lions, and a Man> supposed to hnvn
Aeafh, to combat either with wild-bea»ta or been their Keeper, were discorerttd in tire
Madtators: and during the Bnnrariratv of Pom peian Amphitheatre ; and, according Mr
Fantia it was not lawful for wild-beasfs to Another, no skeletoB was found within i1»
flKht in the Fompeian Amphitheatre, except walla.
wsih each other. (a) The number of Skeletons hitherto found
(m) It ftppeanr, from the followiiig record, ia Pompeii and itH suburbs, \9 said Co be letm
tftnt the Inhabitants of Nneeria frequented ffian three hundred; a small proportion of its
this Amphi^th«atf«. ** A fray took place in inhabitantn, if w« may judge from an advein*
ae Pompeian Amphitheatre A . D. d9, between tisement, found on the outMd« of a large ptv
- Colonies of Nn^rift and Pompeii, at a gatehouse, and importiof, tliatttmtn }M
M» EXCURSION to PmtVU. [Ch.
Hou9 buildings. In the cehhre of the Ati&niistan age for its ^chuif>
the Chutx'h is an antique Font for ing position, vraS otiginally thi
the immersion of adults, similar to Capital of the Picentini ; and prO-
that in the Baptistery at Pisa, and bably derived its appellation firom
encompassed with a Balustrade two streamlets, now called tht
surmounted by Columns very sub- " Sole and Ihe £nlo» whereby it it
ordinate in beauty to those which Watered. Has Town (about fif*
support the roof On either side teen Neapolitan miles from Pcm«
-of the Tribuna are two Columns peii) is embosomed in the Gulf
cut out of one block of Parian which bears its name* and seated
marble with a piece of Cornice on in a valley, encompassed on the
the top of each pair ; the lower northern and eastern sides by bold,
^art of the shafts being plain, and fertile, and picturesque mountains,
the upper part fluted, precisely like It is embellished with a handsome
the Columns in the Forura Nundi- Quay, has sixteen Churches be-
harium at Pompeii. The shape of sides the Cathedral, and a consi-
the Edifice in question leads anti^ derable number of Monastic Insti-
ouaries to suppose it was raised oh tutions. The medicinal School of
the foundations of a Temple con- Salerno acquired, during the reigti
secrated to all the gods *. From of the last of its Lombard Princes,
Nocera to La Cava the road passes a brilliant character ; owing to the
through a rich and pleasant coun^ Arabs, or Saracens, who repaired
try. This Town has Porticoes on thither in crowds, teaching the
each side of the high-street, like Sciences, and especially tluit of
those at Bologna ; and is large. Medicine, in which the Arabs, at
populous, and-sometimes frequent- the period alluded to, particularly
ed by a few forei^ers during sum- excelled : and during the yeaV
mer. Beyond it is a Structure 1100, the Physicians ot this School
which seems to have been an published their celebrated Work iA
Aqueduct, and a Villa which stands Latin verse, which has been trans»
prettily amidst hanging gardens : lated into almost every language^
but on approaching Vietri, and the The precincts of the Cathedral*
whole way between Vietri and and the Church itself, contain
Salerno, the road displays scenery some Antiquities brought from
of the most magnificent and beau- Peestum ; among which are Co-
tiftil description. Vietri, built on lumns apparently of Roman work*
the side of a mountain in the im- manship, and a few SarcophagL
mense Gulf of Salerno, (anciently Among the Antiquity withm the
denominated Sinus Pcestantts^ Cathedral are two fine Columns 6E
has risen from the ashes of the verde antique, a Mosaic Pavement*
ancient Marcina ; and is not far and two Vases for purifying water^
remote from Amalfi, the Islands one of them ornamented wiui 6a«»-
of the Sirens, and the Promontory rilievi representing Alexander's
of Minerva, which all lie toward Expedition to India ; the other re-
the right; while on the opposite presenting a vintage*. The Sub^
side of the Gulf towers the cele- terranean Church, beneath this
brated Promontory of Leucosia, Cathedral, is said to contain the
anciently called Promontorium Relics of S. Matthew. Salerno is
Posidium, Salerno, formerly Sa^ celebrated for its Spring and Au>
lemutn^ celebrated by the Poets of tumn Fair ; especially that held in
ff) A very •imiU Colnmii of wbit« marbic, UA'^X^OAUkO—VKL'-l C mU
iiMhis ChQiMi, be«rt tbtt followtac Greek la- /«) Xh«at Vmm Mt ia 6n«of Am B&^fa^
•cription, placedlongwi«edowniheColmnn. f jffi ^^
ffi A£A0]|Ii3i-Al*-£T-*SC£ — MARIE
Ch. X] EXCURSION TO VMSTVM.
September : and the best Hotel ^tdiee ; till, at lei^, it joins Ibe
h^, called LAlbergo M Sole, high-road frcm £boli ; and passw
affords tolerable accommodatioB, the Salaro, anciently called iSr&rw,
and is deli^tfully situated. «n a Brid^ begun by Mund, and
TraveUers ivho sleep at Salerno, finished by the late King ef N»-
and intend driving strai^t uext plea. Henoe, the hi^-road tnu-
JBoming, by the Oross*road al- verses a dreair waste, rndfiibe^
ready mentioned, or by another Mshed fiow with the Rosea men-
road, less <arcuitou8 than that tioned by Vspl, tiU, on reaehiw
through Eboll, to Pestum, sdiould apatch of cultivated grcynnd, fenoS
provide themselves with bread, with hedges of wild vims, it dia-
jueat, salad, fruit, wine, water, plays (near the sea, aaid encon»*
every things in short, likely to ibe passed with silenee and solitude)
required as refreshment there, tlvee stately Grecian Doric Edi-
From Salerno to the commence- fices, which announce themselves
Bient of the Cross-road, is an as the remains of P»stum: not,
bourns drive, through a rich, beau- however, sudh resains as aeem to
tiful and picturesque country, con- accord with the effeminate and
tinuall}^ presenting little groups of refined taste of the rich atnd hixv-
Clalabrian Peasants, dressed as xious Sybioites ; but, on the ccm-
Salvator Rosa frequently jsaints trary, resembling the sinxpte, bold
them, and either employed in til- «nd ma^stie qDecimens of Hindoo
lage, walking, riding, or regaling, architectme portrayed by the pe»-
in temporary arbours close to the cil of Daniel. Near these £di-
^i^hway. At the harvest season, fioes is a Farm, comprehending «
this country is rendered still more Wine - house, wh€9« Travellm,
picturesque by the Galabrian mode who wisdi for sheher, may eat the
of thrashing corn: which operation dinner they bring with them ; and
takes plaoe in the open fields ; and where stables and fodder for horses
isaccomphshedbymcansofasmall jnay be procured: but the Water
vehicle shaped somewhat like an here is extremely unwholesome);
ancient car, but fixed on a wooden for the Aqueduct which once con^
liarrow, and drawn by two oxen : veyed healthful beverage to the
in this vehicle sit children to guide Town exists no longer,
the oxen ; who walk round and Travellers should neither sleep
round a square space, floored with at Psstum, nor approach its en*
a hard smooth cement, inclosed Iw virons till an hour alter sunrise ;
.A dwarf wall, and strewed with neither should they remain witiun
.unthrashed grain ; which is conti- its Walls long enough to eafpose
nually turned by the harrow ; wliile themselves to the dew which in»-
•the animals thrash it with their mediately precedes sunset: and
hoofs. Two of these vehicles are although by taking these pveoauf
often employed, at the same mo- tions and drinking a little strong
ment, in each of these inclosures ^. .bodied wine, or pundh, it may be
The Cross-road which lies on the possible to escape the dangerous
ri^ht of the highway, traverses a effects of Malaria, even during
wild and gloomy tract, abounding the months when it is most preva-
in buffaloes, pestiferous swamps, lent, those of July, August, and
and crazy bridges made with boughs September, still, Travellers should,
of trees, and thrown across deep if possible, prefer visiting PaestuQi
(o) The smooth thrashiog-floors of the Gre- (w) This is a Toll Bridge ; and «T«ryft»iir-
'fiiB.u»% with Giitrlfl working in them, ia the wheeled cafziage pays one piftstre « tiaie, »for
open fields, are described by Uonur. orossii^ it.
^ 2
34t) P^STUM. tCli.X.
either in March, April, or the be- and nearly of an elliptical form ;
ginning of May; or during the their height seems to have been
month of November.* about fifty English feet, their
This City, supposed to be the breadth, or platform, about twenty,
ancient Posidonia of a Colony of and they were fortified by eight
Sybarite adventurers, who, on land - low Towers, twentv-four feet square
ing here, found a Town, drove its within, and at the windows twenty-
mhabitants to the mountains, and three inches thick : these Towers
estabhshed themselves in their are more modem than the Walls ;
stead ; api^ears, from its name, to but, nevertheless, so situated as to
have been dedicated to Neptune, .correspond with the account, given
<5alled mtni^v by the Greeks \ The by Homer, of Towers used as For-
Sybarites, however, were supplant- tifications ; and some of the stones
^ by the Lucanians ; and these which compose them measure %^^e
b3r the Romans ; under whose do- feet in length.
minion Posidonia assumed the Gates, Paestum had four Gates,
name of Paestum ; and after having placed at right angles; but that
survived the Roman empire in the which fronts tlie east aJone remains
west, was destroyed by the Sara- perfect: it consists of one Arch,
-cens, about the commencement of about fifty feet high, and buUt of
-Uie tenth century y. Previous to stones incredibly massive. On the
describing the rums of this vene- key-stone of this Arch it was easy
Table Citv it seems expedient to once to discern two Bassi-nlieoi;
remark, that some of these. ruins the one representing the Sirena
appear to be of much higher anti- Pestana holding a rose ; the other
qmtytJian others; probably be- representing a Dolphin; ancient
cause the Sybarites, after having symbols of a maritime people :
banished and succeeded the origi- time, however, has nearly oblite-
nal iijabitants, supposed to have rated these symbols. Remains of
been Etrurians, repaired the WaQs, Paintings may be traced on the
embellished the- ^Temples, and inside of this majestic Arch ; be-
erected Baths and other edifices, tween thirty and forty feet distant
congenial to the taste of an opu- from which, are vestiges of a« m-
lent and luxurious nation; and /mor Ga^e.- and, between the two.
when Posidonia fell under the yoke are Ruins called Soldiers' Quarters.
?mo!SL ^r^" .It IS natural to Here likewise maybe seen remains
imagine they might have mtro- of the Pavement oi Xhe QiXy i re^
Wn^Tn ^i;^^^techire. sembling that of the Via-Consula-
Walls of P^stum, These Wails, ris at Pompeii : and here the Aque-
composed of very large smooth duct entered Paestum ; and proba-
«^rrVi,^*^ •^^•«^ ^r^l^^^.^H^^ blyfuraishedwaterforacontiguous
mcety that it is difficult to distm- Fountain, of which considerable
S!?lo - "^^^""l ^}f^ J?'"" V^ ^"^^ ^^^t^^s ^^"^ain within the WaUs.
Jmles and a half m circumference. On the outside of the northern
Cyj.lhe iemples of I'astum were visited
by Aiigiistns, as venerable antiquities, even
m his days: but appear, diirfng modern
times, to have been totally forgotten, till
cond Pnnic war, when' Posidonia,' 'u^d'erMre NaXf who^^Jf ' ^^ I >'""r«^ P*'"^**" ^^
name of Piestom, was a Roman' Colony, its Sc no'le "°™ ^""^"^^ *"°» ^'^^o
cittzeos ofFered the Romans a present of irold r«^ tL v*,„ -- w« ^ ^. ,
vases J which were refused with thwks : C to Vrvp Wn n? fl*'*° ^*5* ^'^ ^^«»^« «»m
afterwards, during the siege of TarenJum by Jf archit^SiS '*" description in point
Hannibal. th« Roman troops who defendea *'«'»"««'««»*
Ch.X.}
P^STUM.
341
Gate ai-e Tombs, some of which
appear to have been lined with
stucco, and painted. Grecian Ar-
mour, and Vases of rare beauty,
bearinj^ Greek, inscriptions, were
found in many of them.
Temple of Neptune. This Edi-
fice, (supposed to have been con-
secrated to Neptune,) the most
majestic, and apparently the most
ancient here, or indeed in any other
part of the European world, is
composed of stone, evidently creat-
ed by the torpedo touch of the
Silaro": for, like the stone of Ti-
yoli, it consists of wood and va-
rious other substances petrified;
and though as durable as gra-
nite, abounds with so many small
cavities that it resembles cork.
Gigantic Steps, three in num-
ber »», lead up to the Platform
on which this Temple rests, and
surround it every way : its shape
is quadrilateral ; its length, out
and out, one hundred and ninely-
foiu- English feet four inches ; its
breadth seventy-eight feet eight
inches. It has two fronts, each
adorned with a Pediment, support-
ed by six immense fiuted Columns
of the Grecian Doric order: and it
likewise had two Vestibules ; each
supported by two pilasters, with
two Columns between them.
Flights of Steps lead to these Ves-
tibules. On either side of the
Temple are twelve Columns (those
in the angles not being counted
twice) ; and a Grecian Doric Frieze
and Cornice encompass the whole
Building ; and are, with the Capi-
tals included, equal to half the
height of each Column ; a circum-
stance peculiar to this Temple.
The exterior Columns, thirty-six
in number, (generally composed of
(a) The Silaras has been famed from time
inimemoriftl for the petrifying quality of its
water.
(6) As the nnmber Three was sacred and
typical Hmonjj; the Ancients, and especially
among the AHiatics, this miffht, perhaps, be
the caase whr the Pnstum Uemples are sur-
Tonnded.bv Three Steps only, exclusire of
those which lead to the Vestibules.
(c) Light and dark bine Movaics appear to
six, though, in a few instances, of
seven blocks of stone,) are twenty-
seven feet two inches high, not
comprehending their Capitals : the
diameter of each Column, at the
bottom, is about six feet ten
inches; and at the top, close to
the first Band of the Capital,
about four feet eight inches : they
have no bases ; but rest on the
third Step of the Platform. Their
Capitals are simple ; and the num-
ber of (Dhannellings in each Co-
lumn is twenty- four. The Inter-
columniations are seven feet seven
inches. The Cella, about ninety
feet in length, and forty-three feet
four inches wide, is raised three
feet two inches above the Pave-
ment of the interior Porticoes, en-
closed by four Dwarf Walls, and
ornamented with fourteen columns
in a double row : their diameter, at
the bottom, being four feet nine
inches ; their height. Capitals not
included, sixteen feet eleven inches ;
the Chancellings of each Column
are twenty in number; and the
Intercolumniations about eight
feet. These Columns support an
immense Architrave; on which
rises another set of still smaller
Columns, about eleven feet in
height ; and destined, perhaps, to
sustain the Roof of the Porticoes.
Five of these Columns remain on
one side ; and three on the other.
The Cella is paved with large
square stones : the Situation of
the High-altar, and those on which .
victims were • sacrificed, and oifer-
ings made, is discoverable ; and it
appears that these Altars fi*onted
the east. Fragments may still be
found of the sea-green and dark
blue Mosaics with which the Ves-
tibules were ornamented ; and the
«
have been of high antiquity. Homer, when
describing the palace of Alcfnous, says :
" The cornice high
Blue metals crown'd, in colours of the sky.**
And the Temples of the Sirens, supposed to
have been constructed by Ulysses on the fior-
rentine coast, were decorated with sea>green
and blue Mosaics: pieces of which are still
found there, i^tet every storm.
trh^ Tonple seems to have been from one entrance to the other :
lined with this plaster polished, but only three of these Columns
The lari^st Stone of this stnpen- now remain \ and the}r do not
dons E&ce contains one way thir« range with the exterior ones,
teen feet eight ifnches ; another Where these three Columns standi
wsfy four feet ei^ht indies ; and the pavement seems to have been
another, two feet tluree mches ; raised ; and probably this sj)ot
making altogether one hundred was appropriated to the magis-^
and forty-fotir cubic feet. trates. The Portico, which is sup-
It has been already mentioned posed to have been appropriated to
that some authors suppose the the common people, measures, in
Etrurians were originally Cana- breadth, fifteen feet ; and the Cross
Means : and if this be admitted, it Walk fifteen feet six inches. A
will appear probable that when Doric Frieze and Cornice ornament
tiiey emigrated to the European the outside of the Edifice, and the
Continent, their first landing-place Architrave of the Peristyle re-
might be Pflestum ; and it seems mains.
equalljr probable that, on landing. Temple of Ceres, This Temple,
they might have raised the graml supposed to have been defecated
though simple Structure in ques* to Ceres, though smaller, and
^n *. much less imj>osing thart that of
Bcuiliea — so called, because no Neptune, displays a lighter and
appearance is exhibited here, either more elegant style of architecture,
of altars or a cella. This Edifice It is elevated on a Platform, bor-
(contigjuous to the Temple of Nep- dered by three Steps : its shape is
tune) is in length, out and out, quadrilateral ; its length, out and
near an hundred and seventy feet, out, one hundred and eight feet,
and in breadth eighty. It stands and its breadth forty-eight. It has
on a quadrilateral Platform ; and two Fronts, each adorned with six
has two Fronts, both adorned by Grecian Doric Columns, which
nine fluted Columns, of the Gre* support a magnificent Entablature
cian Doric Order, which rest, with- and a Pediment. Either side pre-
out bases, on the third Step of the sents twelve Columns, supporting
Platform. Each side of this Edi- an Entablature ; and every Co-
flce presents sixteen Columns, (the lumn is fluted, and rests, without
angular columns not being counted base, on the third Step of the
twice,) resting, likewise, on the Platform. The diameter of each
third Step of the Platform r their Column is four feet three inches
diameter at the bottom is about at the bottom, one foot less at the
. ibur feet and a half, and at the top, and each Shaft measures
top about one fbot less : their seventeen feet eight inches to the
height. Capitals inclusive, is first Band of its Capital, and about
twenty feet, and the flutings of twenty feet four inches. Capital
each Column are twenty in num- inclusive. The channellings of
her. Both Fronts have a Vesti- every Column are twenty in num-
bule; and the interior of the her; and the Intercolumniations
Building is supposed to have been ibur feet seven inches. At the
divided into equal parts by Co- Entrance is a Vestibule supported
lumns placed m a straight line by six Columns with plain round
(fi An ancient Inscription at Palermo -is Another eiroamstaace merits notice; the in-
wtitten in Chaldee ; and therefore some per> side walls of the most ancient sepalchral
sons suppose the primitive inhnbitaots of monaurats at Pestumethibit paintings t and
Palermo to have been emimnts from Chal- we learn from the Prophet Isaiah, that thtt
tea and Uamaseas ; and if this oonjectvre be Chaldssans were in the habit of paintinr tK#
«reU teinded, the Etmrians were more pro' walls of their apartmenta.
bablj «f Chaldmui thwt CMtaeu •rifia.
!3las«9 ; i^nd, beyond, are four Ste]^ rilievi, which hav^ been foiufid
eading to the Cella ; which is here, evince that it was erected at
twenty-five feet wide, and encom- a period when sculpture was rising
passed on the four sides by a fast to its zenith of perfection.
Dwarf Wall. The situation of the Amphitheatre. This Edifice^
High-altar, and of those whereon likewise, is nearly destroyed : it
victims were sacrificed, and offer' appears to have been of an oval
ings made, is discoverable : these form, an hundred and seventy feet
Altars fronted the east. Remains wide, by an hundred and twenty
of Sarcophagi are likewise disco- long. Ten rows of Seats, an4
verable in this Temple ; the out- some Apertures to the Dens for
side of which is ornamented with a wild-beasts, may still be traced:
Doric Frieze and Cornice ; and all it stood in the centre of the Town,
its Columns, thirty-four in num- contiguous to the Theatre, and
ber, (together with those of the not far from the Temple of Ceres.
Basilica, and the Temple of Nep- The great antiquity of Paestum,
tune,) appear to have been stuc- and the uncertainty as to what ita
coed. The Pavement was Mo- remaining Edifices originally were,
saic. and to whom they belonged, brings
Theatre, This Edifice is almost to recollection a well known Ita-
totally destroyed; but the fra^- lian Sonnet, which may be that
meats of Gryphons and fine Basst* imitated : —
" Say, Time— whose, once^ yon stately Pile," T cried,
. •• Which, now, thou cramblest, ruthless, with the »oU ?*♦—
He answer'd not — but spread his pinions wide,
And flew, with eager haste, to ampler spoil.
•• Say then, prolific Fame, whose breath supplies
Life to each work of wonder— what were those f^'-^
tbash'd, with blushes only she replies,
. ike one whose besom heaves with secret throes.
Lost in amaze, I turned my steps aside ;
When round the Pile I saw Oblivion glide.
And scatter poppies o'er eaeh vacant shrine— .
•• Speak I'* I exclaim'd— " for once, mute Nymph, reveal-
Yet wherefore from thy lips remove the seal ?
Whose once it was avails not — now *tis thiki • I "
After having dined in the Tem- three hours and a quarter : and
pie of Neptune, or the Wine-house the Locanda Nobile at Eboli, once
at Paestum, Travellers usually re- a monastery, but now (1827) kept
turn home by way of Eboli, re- for the accommodation of Travel-
crossing the new Bridge; thrown lers. by Rosa PetriUa, is large,
over the Salaro, and passing, on quiet, and clean ; possessmg cood
the right, fine woods, and the beds, and a well stocked poultrv-
Royal Hunting-seat, called Per- yard. This Inn stands on the
sano. Thus far, (about four miles,) outside ot the Town ^; and Tra-
the road is swampy ; but beyond veUers frequently sleep here, and
Persano, (and over an extensive proceed next naorning, through a
common thickly clothed with myr- rich and beautiful country, to Sa-
tle,) perfectly good the whole way lemo*. . .
to Eboli. This drive occupies about Persons who wish to visit, on
eonum* an incongruuy, «jr «.-- --- iay be found in the tirst named Town.
C n The MistCMS of the Locanda Nobile, at The usual price, f« J^i^f* *5 |*»' ^'
Ebol , is dviuToder^te in her charts, » Hotel is from ""^ J^« ^'jj' J^^'S.Si^*'
g^ iook, and an exceUent maker of coffee. wd, for a bed, from three <o lure cariuu.
344 SORRENTO. t^h. X.
their way from Salerno to Naples, to the commencement of the Piano
the Benedictine Convent of La di Sorrento, a distance. of about
Trinita, near La Cava, should stop six miles, there is only a mule-
at the entrance of that Town, and road. Nothing, however, can be
send for a light carriage and two more picturesque than the views
strong horses, to take them up a this road exhibits ; and with good
rocky mountain of the Apennme, mules and careful guides,, or ex-
on which the Convent is situated, perienced Portantini, no risk is in-
at the distance, of two miles from curred by passing it ^
the high-road, and in the mule- The Town of Sorrento is not
path to Amalfi. The ascent to provided with good Inns ; though
La Trinity presents fine w^oods ; beds may be obtained at tfie Hotel
and the Convent, which is partly des Artistes, in the Borgo ; and
hewn out of a rock, and partly likewise at another iU-fiirnished
built upon it, is spacious even to Public House adjoining. But part
magnificence; but contains nothing of a large Palazzo, called The
particularly worth examination ; Cocumella, and about three- quar-
as the curious records, once kept ters of a mile distant from the
there, were removed, when the Town of Sorrento, has been re-
French suppressed this confrater- cently converted into a comfort-
nity. After having seen the Con- ably- furnished Hotel, kept by an
vent of La Trinittl, Travellers excellent Cook, who provides
usually proceed to Naples; stop- Eatables, Coffee, Ice, Foreign
ping, however, at Pompeii, and Wines, &c.; and Travellers are
walking through that City, while often glad to avail themselves of
their carriage goes round the out- this accommodation, it being im-
side of the walls, to meet them at possible to see the Town of Sor-
the Villa- Suburbana. rento, the Piano, and approximate
Mountain- sceneiy, under two or
EXCURSION, BY WATER, TO three days. A neighbouring
SORRENTO. Lodging-house, kept by Don?ia
Marianna Guarracino, at S. Pie-
Sorrento, anciently called ^Sfyrew- tro-a-Mela, also furnishes clean
turn, from its enchanting situation, beds by the night ; as does another
and supposed to have been a neighbouring Lodging-house, kept
Phoenician Colony**, is between by Donna Portia Cesaro, at S.
five and six leagues distant from Agnello : and the Occupiers of a
Naples; and lies on the left side Mansion called Villa- Guardaii,
of the Bay, beyond Castel-a-mare, and delightfully placed on a Cliff,
and near Capri. between the Cocumella and the
Persons who wish to go and Town, furnish board and lodging
return on the same day, should by the night, whenever their apart-
set out from Naples very early in ments are not taken for a term,
the morning ; it being requisite Syrentiim, in the days of Augus-
to allow four hours for rowing to tus and Tiberius, is supposed to
.Sprrento, or any other part of the have been more extensive than
! Piano ; three for refreshing the Neapolis: but, during the year 79,
Doalmen, and four for returning, when the waters of the Tyrrhene
.This excursion may be made by sea retreated from the walls of
land, througjh Castel-a-mare, and Pompeii, they seem to have en-
Yibo ; but, from the former place croached on the Siren-shore ; de-
Qi) Some Writers suppose the Town of from Castel-a-mare to Sorrento, is from eiffht
Syrentam to have been foanded by Ulysses. to ten carlini per man.
CO TUe usual price given for Portantini,
Ch. X.] SORRENTO. 345
stroying a ma^ificent Quay,which time) anchored at Caprese, and
extended froni the Town of Syren- left his fleet there ; proceeding
turn to the base of a Cliff crowned himself, with one vessel only, to
by the Temple of Ceres ; and ruin- the Promontory of Surrentum ;
ing all the contiguous public encountering, on that coast, Poly-
ediflces. The Corridors and Tern- phemus ; thence sailing to the
pies (delved, in a Cliff situated country of the I«aestrygones, near
oeneath the Cocumella) which are Caieta, and after the destruction
called* by tradition, the Caves of of his vessels, by those savages,
C77yMe*, and supposed, subsequent gaining, with one bark alone,
to his circuitous voyage, to have ^oea, the Realm of Circe. But,
been consecrated to the Sirens, be this as it may, the interior of
remain, however, nearly perfect, these Caves, judging by their pre-
respecting their shape, though sent appearance, are more proba-
stnpt of all their decorations, bly the scene whence Virgil bor-
The Entrance, from the sea, to rowed images for his Tartarus
these Caves, resembles the de- than is the Grotto of the Cumsean
scription given, by Homer, of the Sibyl". On the Strand, to the
abode of the Giant Shepherd, right of these Caves, are remains
Polyphemus : even the very Land- of whaf appears to have been a
ing-place may be figured as the Silicemium: and further to the
enormous Rock, with which he right, at the brink of a Cliff near
closed his den. Moreover, there the Capuchin Convent, are vesti-
certainly did exist, at some remote ges of a Columbarium, On a
period, on the Sorrentine Shore, a Cliff, to the left of the Temples of
Race of Giants : for in ancient the Sirens, are the Substructions
Tombs, discovered here. Skeletons of the immense and magnificent
upward of eight feet long have Temple of Ceres, which once
been found, with skulls propor- adorned this coast, and gave her
tionably large ^: and AS Capri' name to what is now denominated
answers to Homer's description of the Promontory of Sorrento : and
the Island called (by his Commen- on the Strand, beneath this Tem-
tators) Lachsea ', — as it seems, pie, pieces of a composition, called
judging from Virgil, Statins, and Sorrento Stone, supposed to have
Tacitus, to have been uninhabited originally made part of the incrus-
in Homer's days, — and as it pos- tations of the Temple, are fre-
sesses, on its south-eastern shore, quently found. The colour of the
a Harbour, where Tiberius kept a composition is blue ; some pieces
Squadron to guard his person, being opaque, others transparent,
probably Homer meant to describe Emeralds, and white Cornelians,
Ulysses as having (after he quit- are likewise found on the Sorren-
ted the ^Eolian Isles the second tine Shore. A Villa, once in-
(*) Thucydides asserts, tbat the Aboriffines Giants iahabited the Shores of Magna Gra»-
of one part of Sicily were gigantic Cannibals, cia; and Homer says they stretched to
called Lse&trygoneti and Cyclops: we learn Caieta.
from other ancient writers, that some of these
(/) ♦* Oppos'd to the Cyclopean coasts there lay
An Isle, whose hills their subject fields survey;
Its name I^chaja, crown'd with many a grove.
Where savage goats, thro' pathless thickets, rove.
No needy mortals here, with hunger bold.
Or vent*roas hunters, thro' the wint'ry eold
Pnrsue their flight ; but leave them safe to bound ^ . /-v,
•From hill to hill, o'er all the desert ground." — Odtssev, Book IX: ,
(m) The descent through these Caves to the much to be lamented; as this is by far the ^
sea has been recently walled up, by order of best Landing place in the Piano; and like-
the Neapolitan Government: a circumstance wise the most convenient Bathing-place.
a4« aORRSNTa [Ch.X.
habited by the Gtitfdtfti family, half filted with w»ter, and leadtnlr
stands upon part of the Substnic^ to a largre, circular, well-preserved
lions of the Temple of Ceres ; and ancient Bath, whieh» by the aid of
persons wishin$( to examine the a boat, may be seen, throujerh &
remains of this Temple, should Chasm in Ihe Clift and is said to
enquire for the Villa - Guardati. contain Paintings. Beyond this
An extensive range of Arches, Bath is anoth0r, of a quadrilateral
Chambers, and Reticulated Brick- form, uncommonly large, in per-
work, belonging to the ancient feet preservation, and supposed to
Edifice, may still be seen : and in have belonis:ed to a Temple conse-t
the Kitchen of the Villa is an an-* crated to Venus. It is practica*
cient Well, communicating, by ble- to enter, and row round this
means of a subterranean Aque- Bath, in a small boat. To the.
duct, with the celebrated Greek left of the Town, and at the point
Piscnnae which supply the Town of the Promontory of Sorrento, on
and Piano of Sorrento with water, a Rock considerably under^iiined
Splendid Columns of Cipolino, and and wcam away by the sea,<^ are
various other architectural decora- remains of a quadrilateral Edifice
tions, have been found within the of Reticulated Brick- work, sup*
precincts of this Temple. On the posed to have been a Temph
side of the ancient Quay, now consecrated to Hercules, LargQ
inundated by the sea, and close to Masses of the Opus Reticulatum*
the Marina Piccola di Sorrento, some of which are nearly cov^ed
stands a Pile of ancient Briek" with water, a Terrace with it4
iDork ; which, according to tradi- original Pavement remaining, and
tion, was a Monument erected by Corridors stuccoed, and in on«
the Sorrentines to the memory of part painted with the Tyrian
Lypanis, a foreign prince, who purple, so prevalent at Pompdi%
resided among them, and was a is ail now discoverable of this
§*eat benefactor to their country". Temple; on the ascent behind
etween the Marina Piccola and which are interesting traces of th^
the Marina Grande di Sorrento, Villa of Vedius Polliq: naniely,
is a magnificent Grecian Arch, remains of a Bridge; two salt
supposed to have" been the En- water Reservoirs for fi^es; in
trance to the Cella of a Temple one of which is a rill of spring
dedicated to Neptune : the Cella water, a Kitchen with its Stoves
isentire.its incrustations excepted; and Fire-place quite perfect; se^
and ancient Corridors, nearly per- veral adjoining Rooms, probably
feet, lead down from a Cliff at Offices for Servants ; Pavement9
Sorrento (on which stands the of ancient stucco ; and Walls of
Palazzo-Mastrolili) to the interior the Opus Retiqulatum. The Re-
of this Temple. Proximate to the servoir into which flows the rill of
aforesaid Grecian Arch, on the spring water was probably devoted
Strand, or, more properly speak- to a species of fish, already men-
itig, in the sea, are huge Masses tioned, called the Moruna, and
of ancient Stone-work and Brick- supposed to thrive best in a mix*
work, which evidently made part of ture of fresh and salt water. It is
the Temple ; together with a small said that when Augustus was
Corridor, nearly perfect, although feasting with Vedius PoUio in this
(n) ^oIqs, who reigned over the ^oli», lour, that even their galleys displayed it: for
now called the Lipari Islandti, had several in the Odytwey, where Lachaea is mentioned,
descendanfs; all of whom were famed for we read
fri.^'li,«'m ■' "* "*"" "**'* ^'■'"'"' " ^"* "•"«• "> «"•'• """ «™»i»" P"".
CJh. X.l SORRENTO. 34f
Villa, a Slav^ brok«, by accident, Heeiiis likely that the Amphithea*
a erystal vase, belonj^ng to a tre and Circus, if such they were.
costly set ; upon which Pollio mi^ht have been common to the in-
oondemned him to be thrown into habitants of Syrentum and Massa ;
the Reservoir, and become food as the former Town is supposed to
for the fishes : but Augustus, in- have extended nearly to the Villa
dignant at this cruel order, forbade of Pollio, and the latter Town (of
its execution ; likewise command* great celebrity in ancient days) i%
ing the whole set of crystal to be not far distant from Portiglione.
broken, aud thrown into the sea. Beyond this Cove, on a height
and the Reservoir to be rendered now called Capo Campanelle, but
useless. In a Cove beyond the anciently denominated Athen€9umt
Villa of Pollio, are considerable the Promontory of Minerva, stood
vestiges of andent Arcfies, Corri^ a Temple consecrated to that god-
dors, ^., now called Portiglione ; dess ; and if we may credit Se-
perhaps a corruption of the words neca p, buUt by Ulysses ' ; but
Porta, and Leoni$ for these this Temple, another consecrated
Arches, according to the present td Apollo, which stood on the
appearance of the Ruins, may same Promontory, and several
probably have been -entrances to more Temples, mentioned by classic
Caves belonging to an Amphi* writers, as having once adorned
theatre, and consequently appro- the Sorrentine coast, are now le-*
priated to lions and other wild- veiled with the soil, or engulphed
beasts. The ascent frqm the Cove by the sea.
to the Ruins above the Arches The Town of Scnrento has
being steep and dangerous, it is suffered so severely from earth-*
advisable, after having viewed the quakes, war, and rapine, that few
Arches from the Cove, to row to of its antiquities remain : it was,
the Marina di Paolo, (situated be- however, not long since, embel-
tween the Cove and the Villa of lished with one of the finest Egypi
pollio,) landing there, and thea tian Statues extant; but all the
walking to the Cliff (immediately upper part has been purloined ;
above the Cove) where, in a and little is now to be seen except
Farm belonging to Don Salvatore the pedestal. An Inscription, at
di Turris, are Ruins which evi- the Piano Gate, in honour of Tra*
dently communicated with those jan, and another in honour of An*
below> called Portiglione. The toninus Pius, (botti nearly oblite*
shape of these Ruins, and the rated,) another under the Portico
Arches still visible in that part of the (Church of S. Antonino.
nearest to the Cove, seem to an- Qientioning a Temple dedicated to
nounce an Amphitheatre : and be- Venus ; Colunuis, Sarcophagi, an(}
hind these Ruins are considerable Altars, may still be found here%
remains of Walls of Reticulated Ancient Bassi-rilievi of Dolphins,
brick- work, which, judging by the emblems (as before observed)
their form, appear to have inclosed of a maritime people, ornament
a Circus : and in this inclosure a some of the Fountains : a small
fine Column of marble, probably part of the Exterior Watt of the
used instead of an obelisk, was. Pantheon is discoverable on the
not long since, discovered. It outside of the Church of S. Ba-
(jp) ** Alta procellofio specalatur rertiea place them as near ai possible to Olympus.
Pallas."— See Sbmeca, Epist. Ixxvii. ^ (r) Fixed to an out«ide wall of the Chafch
' (jf) Teojples consecrated to celestial divi- of S. Antonino (the Patron Saint of Sorrento)
titles were usually built on lofty eminences is one of the ancient Parian marble V|is«4
by the Greeks, who thought it a dutjr to which h^ld payifyiof water.
348 SORRENTO* [Cli. X.
colo ; d,nd fixed in the Walls of tables. Purther on, in the w^,y to
an Archway leading to the Cathe- the Village of S. Agnello, is the
dral are Bassi-rilieviy much in- site of an ancient Temple^ sup-
jured by time, but very beautiful, posed to have been dedicated to
The Cathedral evidently stands Venus : and here are myrtle-trees,
upon the site of an ancient Tem- so large, and apparently so oldr
pie, the Court of which remains : that one could almost fancy them
tiie Door-case of the principal En- co-eval with the Temple m the
trance to this Church is composed Court of which they vegetate. At
of J'arian marble finely worked the end of a Lane of ancient Pave-
and taken from the Temple of ment, near the Capuchin Convent,
Apollo; and the superb Basso- is a Masseria", where remains of
riltevo above this splendid Door- an anpient Roman Edifice, pro*
case exhibits Gryphons and Acan- bably a Temple consecrated to
thus Leaves, and likewise belonged Vesta, may be traced. Meta, a.
originally to the Temple of Apollo ; large Town, immediately under
as did the Door-case of one of the the limestone mountains, at the
lateral Entrances to the Church, extremity of the Piano, contains a
and some of its interior ornaments, handsome Church, beautifully si-
Beyond the Piano-Gate, in a Street tuated, and near which are several
denominated The Borgo, are Anti- very old and fine wild olive-trees *,
quities which deserve especial no- reported to have been sacred to
tice, namely, the Greek Piscines, Minerva: and this circumstance^
repaired by Antoninus Pius in the united with tlie commanding posi-
year 160, and still quite perfect, tionofthe Church, induces a be-
Here are a considerable number lief that it was built on the site of
Of Wells, apparently intended to a Temple dedicated to Minerva,
ventilate this immense Reservoir, The ancient public Burial-ground
which now, as in times past, sup- in which several Phoenician Tombs,
plies the Town of Sorrento and its Skeletons, Carthaginian, Greek,
Piano with excellent purified wa- and Roman Coins, Lamps, Vases,
ter, brought through an Aque- and pHersonal Ornaments, have
duct from the Apennines The been discovered, is situated on the
Arches of the Reservoir are so left side of the Highway leading
skilfully constructed as to sup- from Sorrento to Ponte Maggiore,
port a large Garden, which con- a Bridge at the base of the lime-
tains the loftiest Orange-trees in stone mountains : and in some of
the whole Piano : and adjoining these Tombs Skeletons have been
this Garden are other PTells, ap- found from seven to eight feet
parently intended to ventilate the long, with skulls large in propor-
Reservoir, together . with consi- tion ". Patches of ancient Pave-
derable remains of a Crypto For- ment are seen in the Streets of
ticus, and a Structure which re- Sorrento ; which resemble those
Serfibled a Naumachia, till filled of Pompeii; as does the manner
with earth, and planted with vege- in which the houses are con-
(ji) A Masseria is an inclosure containing^ a kitchen-garden, and a farm-house, in which
orange, lemon, and olive-trees, cows, poultry, silk- worms are usually reared.
{i) Homer mentions this kind of olive :
" There grew two olives, closest of the grove,
Witli roots entwin'd, and branches interwove ;
Alike their leaves, but not alike they smil'd
With sister-fruits ; one fertile, one was wild."— On Ts set, B. V.
{u) Armour, resembling net- work, was of a circular shape, ornamented wilh paintings,
found in one of these tombs : and a short whirh represent the tish called, in Italiifn
time since a peasant, while trenching the
earth above them, ^ug up a creta
represent the tish called, in Italian,
rench'ing the Cnlamajo^ and producing the ancient ink, bv
cotta Vessel, the Moderns denominated 5ap|)ia.
•
Ch> X.] ^OURENTO. * 34D
structed^ The Fortifications, iitemperato^ si scdutifero,^ vitals,
though of modem date, merit no- che gt uomini che senza provar
tice ; because they are supposed altro cielo ci vivono sono quasi
to have been the first erected, immortali."' Such likewise was
either in Italy, or Magna Graecia, the opinion of the Ancients with
for the purpose of having cannon respect to the Sorrentine climate :
planted on them. But the ob- for Galen, , one of the most en-
ject peculiarly interesting to Stran- lightened and successful physicians
gers is the paternal Mansion and of antiquity, advised all his pa-
Birth-place of the ami «ble though tients who required invigorating
unfortunate Torquato Tasso ; one air to yisit this Piano, or the con-
of the greatest Poets whose inspi- tiguous Lactarian Hills : and to
rations have shed a lustre over Galen virtually are the Sorrentines
modern ages. This Mansion, de- indebted for the reparation of
lightfuUy situated on a Cliff sup- their Piscinae (A. D. 160) by his
posed to have been the Site of an. Royal Patient, Antoninus Pius,
ancient Temple, displays, on an whbra he sent hither. There is no
outside Wall, a mutilated Bust, in spot in southern Italy, or Magna
ierrcL-cottay of the immortal Bard ; Graecia, so temperately warm dur-
and in the Saloon upstairs are, a ing summer, so well screened from
marble Bust, called Bernardo the east wind during winter and
Tasso, though more probably it spring, or so much calculated, at
represents a Roman Senator* ; a all seasons, to promote longevity,*
Medallion of Alexander, finely as the Piano di Sorrento. This
executed ; another of Julius Caesar Plain, which extends about three
when young ; another of Agrip- miles in length, and one in breadth,
pina ; and another of Marcus Au- appears to be the mouth of an
relius : they are ancient and were extinct volcano ; as it consists of
all found at Sorrento. Beyond the deep and narrow glens, now
Saloon is a Terrace commanding formed into roads and footpaths ;
an extensive view of the Bay of volcanic rocks, caverns, and small
Naples : but the chamber in which level spots of tufo ; while the sur-
Torquato Tasso was born is fallen roundmg mountains are all com*
into the sea. Tliis Mansion now posed of limestone. The Plain i$
belongs to the Duca di Laurito, one continued series of Orchards
who descends, in the female line, divided from each other by walls»
from Tasso's family. When Ber- and intersected with Villas, Towns,
nardo, the father of Torquato, and Villages : these Orchards,
came from northern Italy to settle however, are not of the common
at Sorrento, he found its streets sort; for here, the pomegranate,
ornamented with handsome houses, the aloe, the acacia, the abeal, the
and their inhabitants so kind and mulberry, the apple, the pear, the
hospitable to foreigners, that he apricot, the peach, the sorbus, the
calls the Town " Lalbergo della fig, the vine, the olive, the bay,
Cortesia ;" speaks of the delicious- the C3rpress, the chestnut, the wal-
ness of the fruit, the variety and nut, the wide spreading oak, and
excellence of the animal food ; and magnificent maritime stone-pine,
then adds ; ** Laere ^ si sereno, are so beautifully mingled and
(c) Persons who wish to be enlightened with one of the most powerfal Repablicsi of Magna
respect to the Antiauities of the Sorrentine Graecia; and, previous to the invention of
Sliore, should consult a Work written upon artillery, must nave been a very strong place,
this subject by Philippo Anastasio. and en- (,v) The robe trimmed with sheep-okin,
titled " Antiquit. Surrent. ;" and another which forms the drapery of this Bust, waa
"Work, written by his nephew, and entitled worn by Senators during the early ages of tti«
- Agnelli Asuutasii Animadverswnes." Roman Republic.
^ (to) Sorrento, during the middle ages, WA«
^0 ' iSORElENTa t^*^-
oontnuted with multitndM of deeay of Tegetafion. The Piano
oran^s- und lemons, that persons contains only two modem Edifices
standing on an eminence and loob- vrorthy of notice ; one is, the Villa
ing down upon this Spot might Correale, much admired for its
ikncy it the Garden of the Hes- beautiful Staircase ; and the other
pcrides'. The Plain rises gra- is the Cocumella, (originally a
dually to the height, of a thou- Convent belonging to the Jesuits)
aand feet above the level of the which, like the houses at Pompeii*
«ea ; and is bounded by the Montes has a Vestibule, and beyond it an
Lactaiii; beyond which, on the open Quadrangle, containing a
east, rises the Mountain of S. curiously constructed Well, of eK<-
Angelo *, reputed to be five thou- cellent water. Under this Quad-
sand feet above the level of the rangle are a Crypto Porttcus, and
sea; therefore the sun, during a large Reservoir; the latter of
«unmier, does not shine on the ^hich is said to communicate widi
Piano till three-(|uarters of an .the ancient Greek Piscinae. The
hour after he has risen ; and when Upper Story of the Cocumella
he descends into the caves of The- tx>asts a Terrace which commands
■tis, the Piano is sheltered from one of the loveliest prospects ex-
his beams by western mountains ; isting. The only wide Carria^-
consequently every summer-night road in the Piano is three miles
is deliciously cool. Moreover, this in length, and formed by means of
'Piano being a narrow Peninsula^ bridges thrown over the ravines:
between the immense^ Bay of Nli- the other public paths are narrow ;
pies, and the still more extensive though sufBcientiy wide for Sor«>
Gulf of Salerno, is fanned conti* rentine carriages*; and all lie
nually by sea breezes ; neither can between lofty Walls *», which, how-
reflected heat b9 f^lt here, because ever injurious to the beauty of the
the trees completely shadow the landscape, afford shade even at
earth ; and as they are, generally midday during summer, and pro-
speaking, evergreens, except the tection from equinoxial and wintiy
deciduous plants whose leaves feed storms of wind. The Town and
silk-worms and cattle, Sorrento Piano of Sorrento united contain
and the whole Piano are exempt from eighteen to twenty thousand
from the noxious damps of au-^ inhabitants ; who still deserve the
tumn, produced by the -annual character given of ^em by Ber-
(jf) Homer, when •peaking of the Garden of Aleinoas, exactlj de«eribei the Piaao cli &ar-
ZClUO.
- Tall thriving^ trees confess'd the fruitful mould ;
The ▼ecdant apple ripens here to gold.
Here the blue he with 4ttscious juice o'erflowa,
With deepest red the full pomegraDate glows,
The branches bend beneatn the weighty pear.
And silver olives flourisih ail the year.
The balmy spirit of the we*tern g-ile
Eternal breathes on fruits untaught to fail :
Kach dropping pear another pnar supplies.
On apples apples, tigs on tigs arise :
The 8Hme mild season gives the blooms to blow,
The buds to harden, aiw the fruits to grow."-— Oft Y««tT, B. VII.
The orange and lemon-trees in the Piano di Sorrento frequently bear blossoms and fruit (oC
one. tvro, or even three years old) at the same time.
(x) On S. Angelo are the RepositorieH for «ast wind.
lee. or, properly speaking, Vrotea iSnow, (a) Sorrentioe carriages are not wider thaA
trhtrh supply Naples and iU environs with were the ancient carriages at I'ompeii.
Cliis indispensable luxury. The woods, and (6) These Walls appear to have been bnilt
<riews, on the heighteof 8. Angelo, are very to preserve the earth on each side from fallini'
iMieli w«rth eeeing. lliii Mountain is tfa« into the paths ; which, as already mentioned!
Screen which, in winter and spring, proteea were originalljr ravines, formed by the luad
- Ke Piano and Town of Sorrento from the «f naCVN.
6h. X.] fiNVmONfl OP SOHRSNTO. tftl
nimlo Tftsso» witti respect to their sobriety, civUily, and general good,
attention and kindness to Foreign- conduct of the Sorrentines, is a
ers. Hospitable^ so far as makms great recommendation to thor
entertainments goes, they cannot Piano, by enabling Strangers to
be ; having no longer the power : walk aione at any hour of the day cft
but their firuit, time, and services, night, in this District, without
are always at the command of a risk of being insulted or pillaged.
Foreigner. Three or four cenera-
M ^ /J i iiijcc VI w fi ENVIRONS OF SORRENTO.
tions of one family often live to- ^. ^, , . , , , ^i
gether here, under the same roof. The Mountains which border the
according to the ancient Grecian Pi«uio di Sorrento abound with
custom: and it is not unconftnon delightful walks and ndw: among
' to see grandfathers and grand- the latter that to the Cmh deWt
mothers above ninety years old, EmtaneUe, e dt Cennenna, w
and perfectly exempt from i«fir- particularly admired. Contt sera^ .
mitier With respect to the health- to be a corruption of the wwd
fulness of the cUmate, therefore. Colli, hills, which are situated
Bernardo Tasso seems again to between two and three miles from
have judged right: and, with re- the Town of Sorrento, and pre-
frard to provisions, beef, veal, fish, sent a magnificent view of the
butter mUk, honey, fruits, and Gulfs of Naples and Salerno, (botk
water, are all excellent. Hogmeat displaved at the same moment)
is so peculiarly fine, that hoes are the Islands of the Su-ens, unmor.
denominated "The Citizens ofSor- talized by Hwier, one of which
rento " and the wine of this district Sontains ruins of an ancient Tem-
is light and wholesome, although ple, the Coast near AmaJfi, the
less Isteemed now, than it was by site of Peestum and the Ha^hhi
the Ancients*. Another circum- near l^he Gulf of Pohcastro. DuTj
stance, namely, the cleanliness of mg the months of September and
the Sorrentines, with respect to October immense nets, for cateh-
their persons, houses, and pubUc mg Quails, are erected on this
paths: tends much to promote th^ spot; below which is the Thunny
salubnty of their Piano : and. Fishery on tiie ngh^ and on thli
owing to the local situation of this left a stupaidous Arch, fomwd
favoured spot, Fahrenheirs Ther- by the hand of nature near the
mometer; out of doors, when pro- mar^ of the Gulf of Salerno ;
perly guarded from reflected heat, which Arch, and the Pa^ leading
seldom rises higher here, during to it furnish fine subjects for the
the day, in June, July, August, p«*cil. In order to see this Arch,
and September, than 76 ; nev«r it is necessary to pass tj^ Wme-
higher ttian from 62, to 64, during house on the summit of the H,]i
thi night; and during the pecu- which rises between the Gulfs of
liariy warm summers of the years Naples md Salerno ; then turamg
1825, and 1826, its utmost height, mto a path on the left, through a
during me hottest period of the sma^ Masserm, terminated by «
day. seldom reached 77. In win- Ciiif, down which is a Goat-track
ter it rarely falls below temperate, terminated by the Arch.
Lodging Houses (the most eli- The nde from the Town <rf Sor-
cible of which are mentioned in rento, through Arola to S-. Mana
Sie Appendix) may be procured Castello, occupies about three
here, at moderate prices : and the hours and a half in gomg, but
(x^ Tb« Massicnm, and the Sarrentinmo, wine i« still particalarly good, (tnd how caUed
fltre mentioned as celebrated wines, bj ancient Conti.
a««ior»; l»d tome •! tht «wre»lMie wki«i
352 ENVIRONS OP SORRENTO. [Ch, X.
father less in returning ; and dis- ride from Ponte Maggiore to Ca-
plays beautiful and subjime see- maldoli, a distance of about two
nery. On reaching the foot of a miles, and return by way of Arola.
hillock crowned by the Church of Camaldoli is now become the re-
Arola, the Traveller should turn sidence of a wealthy Neapolitan
to the left ; passing down a Lane, Merchant.
and thence proceeding through a The ride, going from the Town
Pergola to a Cottage ; on the left of Sorrento to S. Agata, by the
of which are Steps leading to a new road, and returning through
pretty Coppice, composed of ar- Massa, by the lower road, occu-
buti, Mediterranean heaths, and pies about three hours; and exhi-
other shrubs : at the extremity bits beautiful scenery. The dis-
of this Coppice is a Cliff, which tance from Sorrento to S. Agata,
commands the whole Piano di Sor- by the new road, is little more than
. rento, the Bay of Naples, Vesu- a mile; from S. Agata to Massa
vius, and part of the Gulf of Sa- about two miles ; and from Massa,
lemo. After having seen this view, by the lower road, to Sorrento,
the Traveller should go back to about three miles ; the Town of
the foot of the Hillock crowned Massa, nearly a mile in length,
by the Church of Arola ; thence not being taken into this compu-
ascending the Hill on the right, tation. S. Agata, placed at the
beyond me Church; and passing summit of one of the Lactarian
Uirough a Village, and a Chestnut Hills looking down on the Gulf of
Wood, to the commencement of Salerno, is a pretty Village; at
an Eminence on which stands the the end of which, hanging over
Chapel of S*. Maria Castello. At the Gulf, stands a spacious Villa,
the base of this Eminence is a called the Belvedere; and proxi-
Path on the 'right, leading to the mate to a Terrace commanding a
brink of a Precipice, which com- superb view of the Promontory of
mands a sublime view of the Town Minerva, the Islands of the Si-
of Positano, the line of Coast ex- reus, and the whole extent of the
tending toward Amalfi, and the .Gulf. The Morena, the Thunny,
immense Gulf of Salerno. After and other excellent fishes caught
having seen this view, the Travel- in this' Gulf, are usually carried
ler should proceed to S*. Maria twice a day to a Repository at
Castello ; and then walk to the S. Agata, in order to be conveyed
edge of a Cliff on the right of the thence to Naples.
Chapel, and displaying a prospect Massa, as already mentioned,was
somewhat similar to that last men- a celebrated Town in remote ages ;
tioned, but more extensive. Near so celebrated, that it gave, and
the Chapel of S*. Maria Castello indeed still gives, its name to the
is a solitary Cottage, where bread, whole district on, and adjoining
water, and food for mules, may be the Promontory of Minerva, near
procured ; and where persons who which it stands. We are told, by
bring a cold dinner with them may classic writers, that the Sirens,
find a small room to sit in, during Thelxiepaea and Aglaopheme,
their meal. Queens of certain small Islands
Camaldoli, a suppressed but named SirenusaB, and situated in
once magnificefnt Convent, situated the Posidonian Gulf, likewise bore
on the summit of one of the Lac- sway over the Promontory of Mi-
tarian Hills, and well worth seeing, nerva, and the Town of Massa ;
is not more than half an hour's where, during the reign of these
walk from Arola : but persons Siren Queens, in the days of
who like horse-exercise usually Ulysses, there was an Academy
Ch. X.] ENVIRONS OF SORRENTO. 363
renowned for learning and elo- dinner with them, row to Massft,
quence : but the students abused hear -the service and Music in the
their knowledge, " to the colour- Church, see the Fair, and then
ing of wrong, and the corruption proceed on mules to S. Agata ;
of manners " ; consequently, the dining either in the Villa-Belve-
Sirens were fabled, by the sweet- dere, or some other private house,
ness of their voices, to draw the hired for the occasion, and after-
unwary into ruin*. Massa is de- wards returning to Massa, to see
lightfuUy situated among vine- the Fireworks, and embark for
yards and olive-gardens, on a Cliff Sorrento •.
washed by the waves of the Bay Persons who wish to view the
of Naples ; but not sufficiently Coast extending beyond the Tem-
high to command a view of the pie of Hercules to the Promontory
Islands of the Sirens. Vestiges of Minerva, and from that point
of an Aqueduct and other ancient to the remains of the Temple of
buildings, may be traced here : the Nereids in the Gulf of Sa-
and the Town contains a small lemo, may accomplish this little
Cathedral (in which there is a voyage of four leagues in about
little Picture of the Holy Family, three hours, during serene and
attributed to Raphael); a small settled weather, by the aid of a
Episcopal Palace adjoining the light and safe six-oared barge:
Cathedral ; a handsome Church but as the sea is usually agitated
near the Marina ; and several at the junction of the two Gulfs,
good houses. The annual Fete, this little voyage should not be
in this Church, on the fifteenth of undertaken when there is the
August, the Fair during that day, slightest chance of squalls. The
and the Fireworks in the evening. Coast from the Manna Grande
are supposed to be relics of the di Sorrento to the Promontory of
Ferise Stativae, celebrated annur Ceres, is bold, well cultivated,
ally by the Latins, and probably and clothed with olive-woods ;
derived from the Greeks. There and the Ruins of the Temple
often is good Music in the Church of Hercules, the pretty Manna di
at this Festival, and a striking Paolo, together with the Hamlets,
display of beauty among the fe- Villas, Churches, and Convents,
male peasants . which present themselves the whole
No regularly established inn can way to Massa, greatly embellish
be found, eiUier at S. Agata or the scene. Massa is a fine object
Massa ; but, on the fifteenth of from the water, and forms a stnk-
Auffust, Travellers frequently hire ing contrast to the grand though
a boat at Sorrento, take a cold barren rocks of the Promontory of
(d) Next, where the Sirens dwell, you plough the seas ;
Their song is death, and makes destruction please.
Unblest the man whom music wins to stay
Nigh the curst shore, and listen to the lay ;
No more that wretch shall view the joys of life.
His blooming oflfipring, or his beauteous wif*» 1 ^ ^ , ,
OoYsssy, Book XII.
(e) Narrow open carriages, similar in width Angelo and back again, six piastre- for a
to those, the wheels of which have left traces mule and go'de to the heights of b. Angelo
in the itreeu of Pompeii, ckaiscid^porteur, and back ajram, ten carlim-for a mule and
^►nkeys, and excellent mules, may be hired guide to S«.llaria Castello. b. A^ta, Toroa.
at SorreLto. and in its environs. For an open or Capo-Cam panelle, six carhni- and for
carriaire the usual demand is from ten to ditto to Camaldoli, Arola, the Conti. or
?wllve carlini per day, and six carlini per Massa, four car ini.. But if the nder should
h^lf dav--for r chaJe-d-porteur. with two dismount, and detam the mule and guide at
portant^ni, f?om three to teScarlini, according any of the »l>o;«-'^f^*taK*;n'tuf fo^
to the distance, and time occupied— for a would expect about a carliao aa hour tor
chaite-a-porteur, with six portantini, from this detention.
the Fiano di Sorrento to the heights of S.
« A
354 ENVIRONS OF SORRENTO, [GU. X.
Minerva. The Point of the Promon- Revivers of the Art* and repre-
tory, denominated La Punta deUa senting Scriptural Histories. These
Campania ^ is lofty, majestic, Paintings are in wonderful preser-
and, to persons in a small boat vation,consideringthatthe(Jhurch
rawing round it to enter the Gulf is unroofed: the Tribuna likewise
of Salerno, somewhat formidable, (except where the plaster is fallen
Capri, from this Point, is seen to off) displays Paintings in good
particular advantage. The first preservation. This Edifice is said
Landing-place which presents it- to have been dedicated to S. Peter :
self in the Gulf of Salerno is the its form resembles the Churches
Marina del Cantoni: beyond this erected in the time of Constan-
little Port rises an Island ver^ near tine ; and its outer Walls are con-
the Shore, and apparwitly ruU of structed ' with coarse spherical
ancient Corridors ; but being now Vases placed precisely like those in
converted into a Rabbit-warren, the Circus, near Rome, lately dis-
the avenues to it are secured 4}y covered to have been dedicated to
rates, and the ke3^s usually kept at the Son of Maxentius ; but placed
Massa. Within sight of the Island, much closer to each other :. and if
and a very short distance beyond it be a fact that this mode of build-
it, is a small but peculiarly pictu- ing was first adopted in the age of
resque Cove, called the Marina Maxentius, the Church in ques-
Nerano, from the Temple of the tion might probably have been
Nereids which stood there, and erected soon after that period,
now a harbour resorted to daily by Small and, comparatively speak-
the fishermen of S. Agata, who ing, modem Rooms, have been
supply the Naples market with fish, added to the Edifice; and on the
On the strand at the upper end of western Wall, near these Rooms,
this Cove are vestige* oftheTemple^ is the following Inscription : —
which appears to have been a very ,, ^bbas . bartolomevs - gaso . neap
ancient large quadrilateral Edifice, svb . ferdinado • rege - pie . kb • repa
in style of architecture somewhat ^^^^ - cvravit . ano - mcccclXxxx."
similar to the Temple of Hercules. Probably, therefore, the Paint-
It seems to have occupied the whole ings were executed during the fif-
spaee at the u}^r end of the teenth century; and the modem
Cove, judging by the Walls erf Rooms occupi^ by a pious Her-
reticulated stone- work, which stiU mit who afforded succour to Mari-
remain. The centre of this Edifice ners in distress. A considerable
displays an ancient Well, perhaps number of Coins were, not very
for purifying water. Part of an long since, discovered, buried in
Aqueducty and several Arches, be- the Floor of the Sacristy ; and a
longing to the Temple, likewise Burial-ground, now fallen into the
remain. A narrow Path, at the sea, was attached to tiiis Church. *
brink of a Precipice washed by the Not far distant from the Marina
sea, leads to another Ruin ; the Nerano is the Village of Torca,
interior of which presents a Chris- anciently denominated Theorica,
tian Church separated into three from the processions of the gods
aisles by two rows of Columns, exhibited here, on their way to a
eight in number; six being Parian splendid Temple, (in this vicinity,)
marble, the others granite : they consecrated to Apollo. Previous
support Arches and a Wall above to the Christian era, a procession
them, painted in- the style of the went annually from the Pantheon
^,^•^1^** *'*"®^' ^^^J^. near one of the Mar- in Italian, and Campanella a Bell ; and these
tello Towers erected danny the invasions of Towers were provided with alarum-bcU*
the Saracen«. Martello signifies a Hammer struck by hammers
^h- X.] AMALFI. a$tr
at Syrentum io the Temples of m CasteUo to AgeroJa, on foot,
Minerva and Apollo, in order to (hours tliree.) An immense flat
celebrate the Festival of the Lee. stdne, caUed the Passo del Lupo,
tistermum : and the ancient inha- lies in this path, and should bo
ir J *^® Massa district were avoided ; as it does not fumiijh
^"\\g®a to furnish the persons who safe footing*— from Agerola to
walked m this procession with food Amajii, on a mule* or in a chaise^
andwine:-^at the present moment i^-porteur, hours two and a half,
a procession goes annually from Mules, portantini, and refresh-
me Pantheon (now the Church of ments, may be procured at Age-
S. Bacolo) at Sorrento to the rda**. The most eligible mode.
Churches contiguous to the Tern- howevw. of, going from Sorrento
pies of Minerva and Apollo ; and to Amalfl, gupposmg the weather
me modern inhabitants of the favourable, is either to* ride, or be
Massa district are obliged to fur- carried in a chaise-ti^porteur, to
msh the pwsons who walk in that that part of the Conti where b^ins
procession with bread and wine, a rapid Descent called the Scarica
Thus the ancient custom is still tojo ; thence descending, on foot,
observed, witli this difference, that to the Marinella of the Scarica-
the blessed Virgin and other Chris- tojo in the Gulf of Salerno ; where
tian Saints are substituted for the a boat, ordered over night, and of
heathen divinities. the largest size the Marinella af-
It is prudent to allow three hours fords, should be in attendance,
and a half for returning from the The ride to the Scaricatojo occu-
Marina Nerano to Sorrento. pies about an hour and a quarter ;
The excursion from Sorrento to and the Descent, which, though
Amalfl i^ particularly interesting ; steep, is not dangerous, occupies
and may be accomplished with about an hour. On reaching the
ease, when the weather is cool and Marinella, Travellers should em-
serene, either by land the whole bark, without loss of time, for
way, or in part by water. Travel- Amalfl, passing Positano, a ro-
lers going by land, on mules, mantioally situated Town, peofded
usually pass over the Lactarian by rich merchants, and contain*
Hills to Castel-a-Mare ; thence ing handsome houses. The time
proceeding to Pagani, (a ride of occupied in rowing from the Ma-
about two hours and a half,) and rinella of the Scaricatojo to Amalfl,
from Pagani ascending the lofty is, generally speaking, somewhat
Mountain of Chiunzo, (by a road less than thuree nours. The whole
constructed during the reign of coast exhibits delightful scenery ;
Murat) to Amalfl : this ride occu- and the situation of Amalii is
pies about five hours and a half; picturesque beyond the power of
and, for mules, the whole road words to describe. Amalfl boasts
from Castel-a-Mare to Amalfl may much of its high antiquity ; and
be called good. Another, but a still more of a copy of Justinian*s
more laborious way of going by Pandects having been found here;
land, is as follows. From Sor- and of the improvement, almost
rente to S*. Maria Castello, either amounting to the discovery of the
on a mule, or in a chatse^et^por^ use of the Mariner^s Compass ^
teur, (hours three) — ^from S'. Ma- made A. D. 1302, by an AmaJfltan,
(a) The Mountains of Ag^erola contain should order their muleteers to wait at
Wolves; who, after a heavy fall of snow, Amalfiwiththe Agerola mules; it being scarce
sometimes prowl dovm to Arola and the possible to procure good mules at Amalfi.
Conti. CO The ancients seem to have been ac-
(A) Persons who go this way to Amalfl, and quainted with the attractive power of the
ittefln to return back, on mules, to Agerola, loadstone, but not with the use of the Mftri*
"*'■ 2 A 2 .
356 AMALFI. [Ch. X.
called Flavio Gisia. Amelfi, in the Ravine, which contains the
the middle ages, was a very power- Paper Mills, fourteen in number.
ful Republic ; and its citizens (who This picturesque tract, bounded
were intelli^nt and courageous) bylofty mountains, is adorned with
monopolized, about the ninth cen- two Cascades, after rain very beau -
tury, great part of the trade of the tiful ; and between them stands an
East. Their galleys, fitted alike Iron Foundery, where the metal
for war and merchandize, covered fi-om Elba is workfed. Oh a height,
the Gulf of Salerno ; and it was considerably above the Town,
the Maritime Code of Amalfi which stands the Castello di Putone, an
served as a commentary on the ancient Roman Fort, commanding
commercial rights of nations, and a fine view toward Ravello : and
as the basis of the subsequent higher still are Ruins of an an-
jurisprudence of commerce by sea. cient Church, containing no object
Biit this Republic, notwithstanding worthy of notice except one Column
its wisdom and wealth, was con- of cipoUino with a Corinthian ca-
quered ,by Roger, Duke of Cala- pital, and part of the Frieze be-
bria; and afterwards pillaged twice, longing to the Edifice. Amalfi,
by the Pisans; whose second at- at the present moment, is cele-
tack,*in the year 1137, completed bratedforits Paper and Maccaroni
the ruin of a Town once peopled Manufactories : it does not pbs-
by fifty thousand citizens, calling sess the convenience of a regularly
themselves monarchs of the ocean, established inn ; but beds may be
The Sea-Gate at Amalfi appears procured, by the night, at private
to be ancient ; and the Cath«iral, houses ; one of which, kept by^ a
a spacious and handsome Edifice, person called Donna Lttcia, affords
(defeated to S. Andrew, whose tolerable accommodations. Wine
Remains rest there,) stands proud- of the country, (and very good,)
ly on the Site of a heathen Tem- ice, fruit, and other vegetables,
pie, and contains an antique Vase maccaroni, and fish, may likewise
of porphyry, now the Baptismal be procured : but persons who re-
Font, together with two immense quire foreign wine, butchers' meat.
Columns of red oriental granite, or poultry, should take them from
The Columns which ornament the Sorrento. Large barges, and skil-
High-altar are likewise antique; ful boatmen, are always found on
and under the Catliedral is a the Beach at Amalfi ; and in case
Crypt, supposed to be a remaining of unfavourable weather for return-
part of the heathen Temple, and ing to the Scaricatojo, it is more
decorated with fine Paintings, prudent to hire one of these barges,
(probablybytheFlorentineSchool,) than to risk going back in a small
and a bronze Statue of S. Andrew, boat. TTu-ee hours should be al-
Amalfi is built in the form- of an lowed for the row fix)m Amalfi to
amphitheatre ; the upper part of the Scaricatojo ; one hour and a
the Town commands magnificent half for ascending that Mountain ;
Views ; and to see them advan- and about an hour for descending,
tageously Travellers should ascend on a mule, to Sorrento K Persons
nefa Compau : neither does the instrnment of from Amalfi to the Marioella three ducate.
this description exhibited at Venice, A. D. Persons who go from Sorrento to Amalfi by
1260, appear to hare answered its purpose. the ScaHcatojo, and purpose retominjr the
(*) The usual price of a mole from the same day, should order mules to be ready for
Town of Sorrento to the descent called the them in the evening at the summit of the Sca-
Scaricatojo is four carlini. The usual price ricatojo. A long day affords sufficient time for
for a boat with four oars and places for four going and returning, a stop of four houn at
pasitengers from the Mannella of the Scarica- Amalfi inclusive.
tow to Amalfi is one piastre ; and for a boat The usual price for a bed-room at Amalfi ia
With SIX oari, and places for sue passengers, four carlini a night ^^
Ch. X.J CASTEL-A-MARE— CAPRI. 357
•
who find it impracticable to return, Gragnano, returning by S. Nicola
by sea, from Amalfi to Sorrento, de' Min, exhibits l^autifUl pros-
may go by land through Vietri, to pects ; as does the ride to the ,
Salerno, where conveyances to Hermitage of S. Michele".
Castel-^-mare can always be pro- . Another pleasant water excur-
cured. sign may be made to Capri. This
A pleasant water excursion may Island, situated about thi^e leagues
be made from Sorrento to Castel- and a half from Sorrento, and
a-mare, whither a Sorrento boat about eight from Naples, is a pic-
usually goes in one hour and a luresque mass of calcareous rocks*
quarter, and returns in about two nine miles in circumference ; and
hours. Castel-a-mare, situated at w^as anciently called Ccqn-etB, from
the foot of a Hill whereon was the being peopled with goats. Its ori-
ancient Stabiee, is encircled by a ginsJ inhabitants, goats excepted,
beautiful country, and embellished are supposed to have been a Colony
with a handsome Quay made a from Acamania in Epirus; who
few years since, when the King- were superseded by the citizens of
dom of Naples was imder the do- Neapolis : and they, according to
minion of France. Here are seve- Strabo, gave it in exchange for
ral small Lodging-houses, and one Ischia, to Augustus. It is cele-
tolerably good Hotel, called the brated for having been chosen, by
Albergo Reale : here likewise are him, as an occasional retreat; and.
Springs of Mineral Water, sup- by Tiberius, as a residence during
posed to be, in some complaints, several years. Augustus embellish-
efficacious: and on the Hill, above ed* it with splendid buildings; and
the Town, is a Royal Villa, toge- his unworthy Successor had, in this
ther with good Lodging-houses, small Island, twelve superb Villas,
delightfully situated in the vicinity strongly fort^ed, and consecrated
of shady walks and rides : but the to the twelve superior heathen dei-
irrigation requisite for the nume- ties. But as persons were sent to
rous kitchen gardens and cotton- Capri, on the demise of Tiberius,
plantations near Castel-a-mare is to demolish his works so complete-
mjurious to the air. On the Hill ly as not to leave one stone upon
it is possible to trace the Site of another, it is difficult to ascer&iin
Stabise, and only the Site ; as the where several of these edifices
excavations made in that Village stood. The Island now contains
have been filled up. Sculpture, about nine thousand inhabitants.
Paintings, and a considerable num- the town of Capri (where the
ber of Papyri, were found in Sta- Archbishop of Sorrento has an
bise ; but very few Skeletons : Episcopal Palace) and the Village
therefore it is presumed that most of Ana-Capri; the ascent to which
of the inhabitants escajped, before is by five hundred and thirty-five
their dwellings were buried by the steps. The inhabitants chiefly
ashes from Vesuvius ^ Carnages consist of landholders, mechanics,
and donkeys may always be hired sailors, and husbandmen : perfect
at Castel-a-mare, to convey Tra- equality reigns among them ; eveiy
yellers to Pompeii ; which is some- person appears industrious ; very
thing above three miles distant ". few are wretchedly poor ; and so
The ride from Castel-a-mare to salubrious is the climate that
(0 A considerable namberof persons from and then conrey the Hirer back to Castel-a>
Stabin are supposed to have been in the Am-, mare. '
phitbeatre at Pompeii during the eruption of (n) A ^oodCalechewith three strong horses
79, and to have escaped by sea. may be hired at Castel-a-mare for four pias-
(m^TheusaalprieedemandedforaCaleche tres, and sometimes four ducats, a day, to
with three horses is two piastres ; provided copvey Travellers to Pseatum, retumm^ by
the carriage remain at Pompeii till sunset ; Pompeii to CasteVa-mAre.
^« ■ CAPfll. {Oh.X.
scAitse any malibdies visit this spot, peror Commodus, who vtert im-
Ths soil produces excellent wine, prisoned here. Between the Fha-
. «h1» grain, and vegetables of every ros and the Palace is a Rock called
description; among which is the Salto, {leapikg place,) whence
best £rba Ruggine, used by dyers, alter long and exquisite torments.
Immense flints of Quails visit Tiberius ordered persons under
• Capri during the month of Sep- sentence of death to be precipi-
tember, and are caught in nets, to tated into the sea. This rock is
supply the Naples market. six hundred fathoms in height, and
The most convenient way of peipendicular, The remains of the
managing this excursion is, to hire Villa- Jovis (supposed to have
a ten-oared boat at Sorrento, tak- been erected bv Augustus) consist
ing a cold dinner, bread, plates, of two Mosaic Pavements recently
glasses, knives, forks, salt, &c., discovered; five Subterranean
and setting out very early in the Apartments, built with bricks and
morning, as sixteen hours are re- Roman cement; large Vaults which
quired for rowing to the Island, seem to have been part of a Tem-
creeing its antiquities, and return- pie ; vestiges of Baths, and what
ing **. When Strangers land, don- appears to have been a Theatre,
keys are immediately brought down' "rtie marble ornaments of the High-
to the beach for their accommoda- altar, and the two Side-altars, of
tion ^ : and the best mode of pro- the Cathedral in the Town of Ca-
ceeding is to mount these animals,* pri, and likewise a Pavement of
and ascend to the Plain of Capri ; costly marbles, now in that Cathe-
depositing the dinner either at a dral, were found among thesq
small Public House in the Town, ruins. The water which supplied
or at one of the Private Houses, the Villa still remains ; and is su-
where Strangers may hire a room perior to any other this Island af>
and the use of a kitchen for a few fords ; and the view from the sum-
hours. Then, to avoid fiitigue, it niit of the Promontory is magnifi-
is expedient to proceed on donkeys, * cent. On returning from the Villa-
or in ^haiief-h-porteur, to the East- Jovis, Travellers should notice two
em Part of the Island, returning conical Hills, which rise between
thence to dinner, and afterwards that eminence and the Castellone ;
going to the Western Part. On and are supposed to be the Tauru-
Sie summit of the Eastern Pro- bulse mentioned bv Statins : on the
montory are remains of the Palace side of one of these Hills, is an
of Tiberius, consecrated to Jove, ancient Nymphaeum, stupendously
and called Villa- Jovis. Near this high and capacious, and terminated
Villa are the substructions of the by a Semi-circular Building, which
axMsient Pharos of Capri, mentioned receives light from an extensive
by Suetonius, as having been Arch apparently formed by nature.
thrown down by an earthquake* a This Nymphaeum bears the name
few days previous to the death of of Matromania ; and was pro-
Tibmus. Contiguous to tiiis £di- bably consecrated to Mithras, a
fice were found, about twenty years basao-rilievo of that deity, accom-
sinee, a subterranean Flight of plishing the mystic sacrifice of tfie
Stairs, a crystal Lachrymatory, Bull, having been found here,
and a bassO'-Hlievo of terra-cotta', Statues, Busts, Human Bones,
representing Crispina, the Wife, Sepulchral Vases, and a Greek In-
and Lucilla, the Sister, of the Em- scription, were discovered in this
(o) Travellers goinj from Sorrento to Capri, (» OhatMea^porteur may likewtM be f««iid
shoald provide themselves with a Passport ; U tba Town of Capri -w^v •« wwiw
in order to save time and trouble on l»adm^.
Ch. X.] CAPRI. 359
Orotto. On a spot called Monetae with Ceometrieal Figures attri^
near the Path to Matromania, an- buted to Trasullus, and now re*
cient Reservoirs seem to announce moved to the Favorita at Portici,
the site of another Tiberian Villa ; together witii busts, bcun-rUievif
and near Moneta is a Private Path camei, &c., were found here. On
leading through a Massma to the the western side of the Town of
Monte di S. Michele/which ex- Capri is a spot called Sopra Fon-
hibits, midway up the Hill, exten- tana, in the Masseria of Sig. Mi-
sive Ruins of an Imperial Palace chele Arcucci, which was certainly
with exterior Walls about fifteen the Site of an ancient Imperial
feet thick. A long Corridor, eigh- Mansion ; as considerable vestiges
teen Rooms, and remains of Baths, of the Edifice were discoverable
toe still distinguishable here. An* not very long ago. A finely draped
ancient Road, traces of which may Statue of Tiberius, without the
be discovered, led to the summit head, and now in the Vatican Mu-
of the Hill ; where, on the spot seum, was found here : and th<t
now occupi^ Iw a modern For- subterranean parts of the Mansion
tress. Mosaic Pavements, Bases which still remain are remarkable
of Columns, and Subterranean for their size ; two of these Vaults
Apartments were found. Proba- bein^ above an hundred and ninety
bly, therefore, another Imperial feet in length, and in width thirty-
Villa stood on this Hill, which three. On a descent from Sopra
commands a magnificent view. Fontana to the Beach, are nve
At a place called Le Camerelle are Vaults belonging to an Imperial
Ruins which seem to have made Palace, superb remains of which
part of an Aqueduct ; and anti- embellished Capri within the me-
quanes suppose there was an Im- mory of several persons now
penal Villa near it. At a short living: and in past times ei^t
distance from the Camerelle, on the stupendous Columns of maiSe,
south-east side of the island was (about eighteen feet high,) four
another Imperial Residence, on being giallo antico, and four cipol-
the site of which modern fortifica- lino, were found here, together
tions were constructed, and subse- with a splendid Pavement, tn this
quently demolished. On the con- vicinify is an ancient Temple con-
tiguous Beach are remains of an- verted into the Church of S. Cos-
cient Roman Masonry ; and, ac- tanzo, (the Patron of the Island,)
cording to general belief, Tiberius and ornamented with four of these
kept small armed vessels here to Columns '. Near the Church is
protect his person. From this spot a spot denominated Campo di
are seen two peculiarly picturesque Pisco, where a sniall Fort was
Rocks, called the Farsi^ioni. The built in modem. times ; and where
Oertosa, now uninhabited, was a Cave and ruins of an ancient
built on 'the site of a Tiberian Wall mark the Site of another
Villa ; and between this suppressed Imperial Palace, supposed to have
Convent and Castigiione, in the been consecrated to Vesta. The
Masseria of Sis. Vaientini, is an remains of the Palazzo della Mari-
elegant .marble Pavement, not long na lie on the sea-shore, at a short
^nce discovered. Midway up Ihe distance from the Campo di Pisco;
Hill of Castigiione are fragments and Travellers must descend to
of an ancient Edifice, supposed to these Ruins by aid of a ladder,
have been the Tiberian Villa con- Valuable antiquities have been
secrated to Neptune. A Pavement found here ; among them is the
(jq) Perhaps so called because a consider- (r) The other four adorn the Royal Chapel
able number of Coins were found there. at Caserta.
360 PROCIDA— ISCHIA. [Ch. X.
Capital of a Column, so beauti- four miles from Baja : and atMin-
fulty worked that it has been iscola passage -boats may always
placed in the uncovered Court of be obtained for Procida ; which is
the Museum at Naples, as a study only one league distant. The
for architects. Remains of Rooms Aborigines of Procida, anciently
and the !F^ont of a Temple, with called Prochyta, are supposed to
Masses of Masonry scattered along have been a Colony of Chalciden-
the Beach, are all the vestiges now sfes. The soil is volcanic, fertile,
traceable of this Palace, which and productive of excellent fruit
was probably consecrated to Cy- and good wine : the circumference
bele. The lofty rock towering of the Island is seven miles ; and
over the Palazzo della Marina its present inhabitants, about four-
leads, by the Steps already men- teen thousand in number, are in-
tioned, to" Ana- Capri. It is ne- dustrious and opulent. They pos-
cessary to ascend these Steps on sess a Thunny Fishery, and a con-
foot, or in a chaise-a-porteur ; siderable fleet of small merchant
donkeys, however, can go up with- vessels. The costume of Procida
outriders; and at the summit of is perfectly Greek and peculiarly
the Steps is a good mule-path, elegant". The men wear Phry-
extending from one extremitv to gian caps, (as do all the marl-
the other of the Plain of Ana- ners in Magna Graecia,) and
Capri. Travellers, therefore, usu- both sexes are handsome. This
ally ride round this Plain ; and on Island exhibits no striking feature,
returning to the Steps, dismount, except its dismantled Castle ;
and walk down ; sending their which stands proudly on the sum-
donkeys before them. Ana-Capri mit of a cliir, and is become a
presents neither views nor antiqui- Royal Shooting- seat, now unfur-
ties which compensate for the nished; where Travellers who have
fatigue of visiting it'. brought refreshments with them
are sometimes allowed the use of
Excursion to the Islands of a room. The view from the Ter-
Procida and Ischia. race of this Villa is enchanting.
The other buildings at Procida are
The passage, in a row-boat, from chiefly flat-roofeS houses, with
Sorrento to Ischia, occupies, ge- terraces on the top, and staircases
nerally speaking, full six hours': on the outside of the walls. From
and as this Island is only five the Marina di S». Maria Cattolica,
leagues distant from Naples, and where Neapolitan boatmen usually
only two Neapolitan miles from land their passengers, to the Rby-
Procida, Travellers often prefer al Villa, is a short mile ; thence to
going from Naples to Procida, Chiajolella, where passage-boats
and thence to Ischia. The pas- ' are found for Ischia, is less than
sage, in a row-boat, from Naples two miles ; and from Chiajolella
to Procida, (three leagues in dis- to Ischia about two miles,
tance,) usually occupies about two ' Ischia, according to general
hours and a half : but persons who opinion, the offspring of.subter-
dislike expeditions by sea, may go ranean fire, and anciently denomi-
by land, so far as Miniscola ; a nziedjEnaria, Enarina, Fithecusa,
liltle Port (inhabited by fishermen) and/*c/a ', is computed to be about
(0 The price uBuaUy demanded at Capri from Sorrento to Ischia, is four piastres,
for each donkey and guide per day. is six («) Persons who wish to see this costnnie to
carlini, buonamano not inclusive. Ihe Cice- advantage should visit Procida on a Festival
Tone expects half a piastre, and the custom- (t>) It was called jSnariafrom Mneta, who
house officer three carlinu is supposed to have la^ded at Ischia on hit
(0 The nsnal price of a ten-oared boat, way tp Latium.
Ch. XJ • ISCHIA. 361
eighteen miles in circumference, kets are also fabricated in this .
Tradition reports that Ischia and Island.
Procida were once united, and bore Travellers who wish to make the
the name of Pithecusce; in con- tour of Ischia, must either walk,
iirmation of which belief it must mount a donkey, or be carried by
be allowed, that the soil of both Portantini ; as tl^e roads are too
Islands is volcanic, and that the narrow for wheel-carriages. No
original inhabitants of Ischia, like butcher's meat can usually be
those of Procida, were a Colony of found on the way, except at Celso,
Chalcidenses. In early ages there the principal Town of Ischia ; but
was a Volcano at Ischia so tre- Fona, and other places, furnish
mendous, that its eruptions terrified rabbits, fowls, and nsh. This tour
and drove away the first Settlers may be accomplished in ten hours ;
on the Island : and the Syracu- though Travellers, not limited with
sans, who colonised there, four respect to time, would find it more
hundred and seventy yearg previ- convenient to employ a couple of
ous to the Christian era, were also days in making the tour ; sleeping
diiven away by the same circum- the first night at Foria, where
stance : no great eruption, how- beds are attainable ; and employ-
ever, seems to hs^ve taken place ing the second day in ascending
since the year 1301 ; and during the Epopeus, and walking down
the last four centuries the Island on the opposite side of that moun-
has been perfectly exempt from tain to Celso. Ischia contains a
these appalling visitations. It is fortified Castle, garrisoned by
celebrated for Hot Mineral Springs, Neapolitan Soldiers : it stands on
the relics of its Volcano, and sup- a rock, where the principal town
posed to have proved, in several of the Island once stood ; and dur-
cases, salutary. The whole Island ing the period when the Ischiots
is richly cultivated ; not excepting were liable to invasions from the
the Volcano now extinct, the Saracens, and other nations, the
Epopeus of the Classics, a conical whole population of Ischia fled,
mountain, eighteen hundred feet on any alarm, to this spot, where
above the leyel of the surrounding a Martello Tower was placed, to
sea, and clothed with vines to the warn them of approaching danger,
summit of its western peak. Ischia, One of the most mteresting objects
indeed, may be called an immense to a Traveller who makes the toiur
vineyard, interspersed with towns of Ischia, is the Bathing House at
and villages : its present popu- Casamiccia, erected by a pious
lation amounts to twenty-four Establishment in Naples, the
thousand inhabitants, a hand- Monte della Misericordia, which
some, spirited, and industrious Establishment extends its charity
people ; many of whom are sailors so far as to transport fi*om Naples
and fishermen, the rest landhold- ^hither those sick persons who are
ers, mechanics, and peasants. The supposed to require the Baths, and
Island produces some of the best cannot defray the expense attend-
wines in the vicinity of Naples, ant on trying their efficacy : and
deliciojis figs, which (when dried) further, the Establishment places
are, during winter, the chief sup- these sick persons in an Hospital
port of the poor, wheat, and In- adjoining the Bathing House,
dian com, tnough not in large provides them with food for
quantities. A famous Straw Hat twenty successive days, and then
Manufactory is established at Ba- sends them back to Naples cost
rano, near the Epopeus ; and re- free. A broad and very long
markably pretty littie Straw Bas- Apartment contains the Baths,^^
seii
iSOHtA.
[Ch. X.
eighty in number, Shower Baths displays, a little below its summit,
inclusive. The water of each Bath a Hermitage with several Cells
is emptied and renewed for each and a Chapel dedicated to S. Nic-
Bather ; and the Hot Mineral colo, all delved out of the rocks:
Spring, by which these Baths are The present occupiers of the Her-
supplicd, likewise furnishes steam mitage are an Anchorite and a
for the Vapour Baths, which are Lay Brother, who do their utmost
contiguous to the Hospital. Ruins to welcome and -direct Travellers,
of ancient Baths may be seen in expecting a small pecuniary re-
the neighbourhood of a. Village compense in return. Above the
called Castiglione ; and near the Hermitage is a Terrace which
prettily situated Village of Lacco commands one of the most ex-
are several Hot Springs, the steam tensive views in Europe. The de-
proceeding from which is strongly scent through the Volcanic Region
recommended in rheumatic com- (abounding in pumice stones and
plaints. Foria, a populous and ashes) is not pleasant, so far as
charmingly placed Town, contains relates to the path, till it reaches
a Church dedicated to S*. Maria di the Plain in which Celso stands :
Loreto, and ornamented by hand- this Plain lies between the Epopeus
some Pilasters incrusted with an- and Monte- Vergine, on the summit
cient marbles. The ascent to the of which are a Hermitage, and a
Epopeus, now commonly called Church dedicated to the blessed
Monte S. Niccolo, begins immedi- Virgin.
ately beyond Foria; and within Ischia contains at the present
view of the path leading up to that moment (1827) two Lodging and
Mountain (between Foria and a Boarding Houses ; both of which
small Hamlet called Pansa) is a may be recommended ; one is kept
Beach contiguous to the Promon- by a person called Don Tommuso ;
tory of Capo Imperatore, contain- and the other by Don Ignazio
ing Hot Springs, said, by the in- Monti, The nearest Landing-
habitants of Formia, to be the place to both is the Point of l£e
most efficacious of all the nume- Sentinella ; Sig. Monti's House,
rous Hot Springs witli which Is- (beautifully situated) being imme^
chia abounds. Beyond Pansa the diately above this Point, and Don
ascent becomes toilsome, and the Tommaso's about half a mile dis-
path narrow; but the Views are tant. Sig. Monti's situation is
enchanting: and beyond Fontana convenient to Invalids, from its
an easy ascent leads to the rocks vicinity to the Mineral Baths of
which crown the Epopeus, and Casamiccia^.
(w) The price usually asked by Don Ignftr been sometimes takea.
^io Moati is eighteen oarliai a day, per bead, There is a luevly establisbed Boarding luid
for board and lodging; fifteen carlini has Lodging-house at Lacco.
3B3
Chasteii XI.
SICILY.
Coacise History ©f th« Uland— most eligible months for visidug ifc-P*lemo--E^U-ry
Trapaoi— Marsala-Selinuntium — Sciacca— Agrigeatura — Licata— Terranova— Biviere
di Lentini-SyracusaB-Catauia-^tna-OiaTra-Castaguo di cento Cavalli-Francavilla
— Tauromiuiura-Messina— Melaizo-Rbeggio— Lipari Islands-Cefaia-Tetmini— Cha-
racter of the Sicilians-Productions of Sicily-CHmate— Manner of Travelling — Prices
paidby Travellers— Requisites for Travellers-Routes, and Distances from place to plawr.
SICILIA, or, as it is usually Call^ ^^^^ ,the tide rushes from her rambiin
ed, Sicily, the largest Island in The rough rocks roar, tumHltaous boil the
the Mediterranean Sea, was an- waves."
ciently denominated Sioania, 7W- g^^|. though Scylla still is, occa-
nacria*, Triquetra, and Stcawa- sionally, the terrific monster thus
Sicilio!. Its form is triangular; described by Homer, Charybdis
each of the extremities being ter- ^^^^ ceased to resemble the appal-
minated by a Promontory ; one ot jj Whirlpool he mentions : in-
which, anciently called Ltlybanm, ^^^^^ j^. ^g almost a matter of diffi-
faces Africa ; another, called Pa- ^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^ ascertain the iden-
ehynum, faces the Peloponnesus ; ^^^^ situation of this Whirlpool ;
and the third, called Pe/or»m, faces notwithstanding we are told by
Italy. Tradition says, Pelorum writers, long subsequent to Homer,
was thus named by Hannibal, m ^y^^^ ^^^ rapidity of the currents,
honour of his Pilot, Pelorus, The ^^^ ^^le irregular and violent flux
last mentioned Promontory now ^^^^ ^.g^^x of the sea, in the
bears the appellation of Capo dd g^reights of Messina, once mada
Faro (from the Pharos erected charybdis most dangerous y.
there) ; Pachynum is called Capo gj^j-jy jg computed to be about
Passaro, and Lilybaeum Capo di g^xty-six leagues in length, and in
Boco. Two Rocks, not far from breadth forty-five; but its size does
the Sicilian shore, have long been ^^^ ^^^^^ precisely known. It con-
the dread of mariners and tiie thenae ^^:^^^ several lofty mountains ; and
of poets; that, named Scylla, si- deyated above them all towers
tuated a few miles from Messina, ^tna, a double-headed giant, con-
on the Calabrian side ; and, on the tinually vomiting sulphur and
opposite side, in the Streights of flames. Several rivers fertilize
Messina, was the other, called ^^^ Island, which was once deno-
Charybdis. During tempestuous ^inated the Granary of Rome:
gales, the noise of the wav^s, dash- ^^^ were this soil properly tilled,
ing violently against Scylla, and ^^ would produce more corn than
then preci]jitating themselves into ,^^y country of its size existing,
caverns at its base, still resembles r^^ie pasturages, flocks, and herds
the howl of dogs and beasts of gacred to ApoUo, were celebrated
prey. by ancient Bards ; the plain of
" Dire Scylla there, a scene of horror forms ; Enna * was famed for deliciOUS hO-
And here, Charybdis fills the deep with ^^y . gj^j^ according tO Diod(M:US
«tonas :
StiABO. 6.-MKLA, ii. C. 7.— PaXJSAWIAS, IV. • •
364 SICILY. [Ch. XI.
Siculus, hounds lost their scent in after having justly offended the
hunting, on account of the pdori- Monarch of Crete : but the
ferous flowers which profusely Ruler of the Sicani, while pro-
perfumed the air : an anecdote mising to give up the culprit, and
worthy of credit, as theflowei^ in at the* same time receiving Minos
Sicily, during Spring, are, at the with dissembled friendship, trea-
present day, abundant and fra- cherously put him to death. This
grant beyond description. The event occurred thirty years pre-
surrounding sea teems with excel- vious to the Trojan war, and, at a
lent iish ; in short, nature appears subsequent period, the Tomb of
to have lavished adl her treasures Minos was discovered by labourers,
on this Island. who were making the Walls of
As to its political history, Sicily, Agrigentum*. At length the Si-
like the Kingdom of Naples, pro- culi (a nation of Campania, driven
perly so called, may be compared from their possessions by the Opici)
to a Brilliant of the first water, passed, on rafts, the Streighf* which
which has, from time immemorial, separates Magna Graecia from Si-
excited the cupidity of Princes ; cily, invaded the Island, and ob-
and alternately fallen into the tained a permanent footing on its
hands of those, for the moment, shores. This occurred above a
most powerful. Its original inha- thousand years previous to the
bitants were, according to received Christian era, and gave birth to
opinion, a very gigantic race ; and perpetual warfare between the Si-
skeletons of a most uncommon cam and the Invaders ; till at length
length have certainly been found both parties agreed to divide the
in Sicilian tombs. These Abori- Island between them : and attract-
gines, called Cyclops, and Laestry- ed by the great renown for wisdom
gones, are reported .to have been and virtue enjoy edby the Sons of
Anthropophagi: what became of ^olus. King of the ^oUdes, they
them is unknown ; but, when the likewise agreed to invest these
Sicani colonized in Sicily, the Princes with sovereign, power over
greater part of the Island was un- Siculi, as the Island seems, at that
inhabited. They are supposed to period, to have been called ; and
have been Spaniards, who dwelt they had no cause to repent their
near the Sicanus, a small river in determination. But when this
Spain ; and from these Settlers Ro^^al Race was extinct, the Si-
Sicily acquired the name of Sica- cani and Siculi (become one peo-
nia. They erected towns .on the pie) chose their Sovereigns from
heights ; and each little State was among their own compatriots ;
governed by its own Chief. During which measure unfortunately occa-
the reign of these petty Princes sioned feuds and civil war, the
Hercules is said to have landed on cankerworms of national strength,
the Island, and embellished it with These feuds, however, did not
a Temple, not far distant from prevent the people of Siculi, or
Argyra, the birth-place of Dio- Sicania-Sicdlise, as it was then de-
dorus Siculus. The Cretans like- nominated, from receiving with
wise, led by Minos, invaded the humanity the ill fated Trojans,
Sicani, in pursuit of Daedalus, who sought an asylum among
who took refuge among them, them, after the destruction of
(a) These Walls were solid indigenous some places, so narrow that the barkinr of
rocks, cut into the form of walls; and ancient doffS may be heard from shore to shore* th«i
Ch.Xl.j ' . SldlLY. 565
Troy: but the Phoenicians and works were so enlightened, that
Greeks, aware of the diminished Lucretius seems to question whe-
force of a Country distracted by ther their author was a mortal ;
internal commotions, took advan- and whose virtues were so eminent,
tage of this circumstance, by plant- that his compatriots repeatedly
ing Colonies there ; and at length offered him the sceptre of their -
the Carthaginians became masters country, which he as repeatedly
of the whole Island, till dispos- refused. Tradition says, this un-
sessed, by the Romans, during the ambitious man precipitated him-
Punic wars. Its most celebrated self into the crater of iEtna ;
Cities, when it fell under the Ro- thinking that his sudden disap-
man yoke, were Syracusae, Mes- pearance might induce a belief of
Sana, (ahcientl3r Zancle) Leontium, his having been received among
Lilybaeum, Agrigentum, Gela, Dre- the gods: more probably, how-
panum, and Eryx: and the inha- ever, he accidentally fell into the
bitants of these Cities were so crater, while prosecuting his phi-
prone to luxury, that Siculie men- losophical researches : his sandals,
see became proverbial. When the being made of bronze, were dis-
Greeks colonized here, they in- gorged by the Mountain, and thus
spired the SiciHans with a passion proclaimed the manner of his death,
for the Muses. Stesichorus, a Diodorus, as already mentioned,
native of Himera in Sicily, who was a Sicilian : he composed a.
flourished above six hundred years Universal History, in forty parts ;
before the Christian era, was a travelled through most of the coun-
celebrated Poet ; insomuch that tries which he describes, and was
Phalaris, Sovereign of* Agrigen- tiiirty years in writing his Work.*
tum, exhorted the citizens of Hi- Ancient authors, fearhil of being
mera (a town* subsequently de- erroneous, never wrote in haste
stroyed) to erect a temple to his — ^they respected the public. Ar-
memory ; and offered to provide chimedes, too, was a Sicilian, bom
them with money and workmen at Sjrracuse; and when the Ro-
for this purpose ; at the same time man Consul, Marcellus, besieged
advising that all their temples that City, Archimedes, in conse-
should become the depositories of quence of his wonderful know*
the poems of Stesichorus. Sicily Ifedge of geometry, defended it for
maybe called the birth-place of Pas- three years, by constructing ma-
toral Poetiy, as Theocritus, in both chines which suddenly hft^ into>
senses of the word, the first of pas- the air the Roman vessels stationed
toral Poets, was bom at Syracuse, in the Bay, and then precipitated
Epicharmus, a native of the same them with such violence into the
town, introduced Comedy there, water, that they immediately sank,
about four hundred years previous He likewise set one of the Koman
to the Christian era, and, accord- fleets on fire with burning glasses,
ing to some opinions, was the In- Marcellus, however, at length suc-
ventor of Ihis species of composi- ceeded in taking the City ; at the
. tion. Sicily likewise gave birth to same time issuing strict orders to
Tragic Poets ; among whom were his soldiers to respect the Life of
Empedocles, grandson to the phi- Archimedes ; and even offiBring a
losopher, and Dionysius II, Sove- reward to anyone who would bring
reign of Syracuse. She was also the Philosopher unhurt into his
famed for the eloquent oratory of presence. But these precautions
her sons : and produced, among proved useless. The Philosopher,
several renowned philosophers, the absorbed in solving a problem, and
illustrious Empedocles ; whose ignorant that the Besiegers were
966 * gUCILY. . [Ch.XI*
posiSesiSed of the Ciiy, was slaugh- sequent to which peiod the Sici-
tered by a Roman, for having re- lian sceptre has been swayed 1^
fused to follow him. Marcellus divers potentates of Europe ; ana
raised a monument over the re- several of the present customs of
mains of Archimedes; placing the Island are derived from its
upon it a cylinder and a sphere : Spanish Sovereigns ",
and Cicero, during his Questor- The Arts of Painting and Sculp-
ship in Sicily, discovered this Mo- ture were highly cidtivated, m
nument overgrown with brambles, early ages» by the inhabitants of
near one of the Gates of Syracuse. Sicily : and Greco-Siculi Vases
But although the Romans encoun- furnish some of the most splendid
tered great difficulties in subjugat- specimens of pottery existing,
ing the Sicilians, they fell, compa- The • principal Ports in this
ratively speaking, an easy prey to Island are those of Messina, Syra-
the Saracens. That brave, but cuse, (caJled, in Italian, Siragusa)
cruel, and fanatic People, made a and Trapani ; each being situated
descent upon the Island in 669 ; near one of the great Promonto-
surprised and plundered Syracuse, ries ; and those of Palermo and
and then re-embarked for their Catania, situated between the
own territories. In. 827, they were others. There are hkewise several
recalled by a vindictive and power- small landing-places ; and to avoid
ful Sicilian Nobleman, to revenge bein^ surprised by Corsairs, the
his i^vate quarrel ; and aided by Sicihans have encircled themselves
this villain, they enslaved his coun- with Martello Towers.
try. Messina defended itself with The most eligible months for
great valour against the Invaders ; visiting Sicily are those of March,
but was compelled to capitulate. April, Mzy, and June, as the
All the cities which endeavoured flowers which enaAiel the Island
to maintain at the moment, or are then in high beauty ; the sun
afterwards recover their freedom, is not sufficiently fervent to be
suffered dreadfully ; and Syracuse, dangerous, (if Travellers guard
which was among the latter, hav- their heads properly against it ;)
ing been long besieged, and re- neither is there, at tms season,
duced to extremities ^the most re- much Med' aria. During Spring,
pugnant to human nature, was Summer, and Autumn, a Steam
taken by assault, sacked, and Packet usually goes from Naples
bumt--even its walls were razed, to Palermo (an hundred and eighty-
Sicily languished under the Sara- four miles) in about twenty- four
cenic yoke above four centuries: hours ^. The approach to the
but, at length, Roger, surnamed latter Town presents fine scenery.
Guiscard, a Norman by birth, de- The bolides form a beautiful group
livered the Island from the domi- on the left, near Sicily, whUe Ustica
nioii of the Infidels ; re-established appears far off on the right, and
its Chxu*ches; and became the ^tna is likewise seen at a distance.
first of its Norman Rulers, under The mountains which back Pa-
the title of Conte Ruggiero. His lermo, the deep blue sea, &om
family reigned in succession : sub- whose bosom rise the most pictu*
(c) In 1282, the memoraMe Sicilian Ves- «<;r^, abont once a fortnight, during the Sum-
pers placed Peter of Arragon on the throne mer and Autumn of 18S6 ; the price, for eaeh
of Sicily: from him its crown derolved on Chief Cabin Passenger, being twentv ducats,
Ferdinand of Castile, and remained annexed from Naples to Palermo, bed and ooard in«
16 that of Spain, till, bjr the treaty of Utrecht, elusive ; the price for each second class Pa»»
it was given to Sardinia. senger. bed, but not board, incluaire, aiii4
C<0 5ne of these Vessels, (The Real Fer- ducats ; and the price for each third class
dinando) managed by Englishmen, went from Passenger three ducats, without either bed or
K«plM to Falermo aad Meanna, and «»c« board.
/
CIlXL]
SICILY— PALERMO.
361
resque rocks imaginable, the Cffipe their own composing^ to amuse the
of Zafiai-ano, and the Monte-PeUe- Palermitan Nobility, who drive
grino, all contribute to render the daily, and even twice a day, to the
entrance to the capacious Harbour Marina, Cor the benefit of sea-
of this Metropolis delightful. The breezes : and here may usually be
best Hotel here is The PHnce of seen idle Palermitans, of the lower
JFo/e*, kept by Mr. and Mrsi Page : rank, assembled rojimd a Story-
the latter is an English woman. teller, whose histories, though not
The gaiety and Asiatic appear* equal, perhaps, i^ merit, to ** The
ance of Palermo are peculiarly Arabian Tales," excite the interest
striking ; an effect produced, in of his auditors ^. This exhibition
part, by numerous palm-trees, and seems to be derived from the Asia-
a species of weeping cedar, which tics: for " The Arabian Tales,"
flourishes here. Palermo, how- translated into English, owe their
ever, displays other features of an existence to a description of Story-
Asiatic Town ; some of its build- tellers who have, from earliest
ings are Saracenic ; and the Chal- times, belonged to the suite of
dee Inscription, already mentioned, Asiatic Princes, for the purpose of
as having been found within its entertaining them with f£U)ulous
walls, gives strength to the opinion histories. Ths Upper Marina Ter^
of several learned Sicilians, who race, and Public Gardens adjoin-
suppose it was originally built by ing the Marina, are likewise fa«
Emigrants from Chaldsea, and Da- yourite promenades. In these
•mascus, transported hither by the Gardens are walks shaded by
Phoenicians ; and aided in their orange and lemon-trees ; fountains
work by that wealthy mercantile whicn nourish ac^uatic plants ; and
People, and some Israelite Adven- Canary-birds livmg and singing in
turers. capacious aviaries, with one side
This Town anciently called Pan^ open to the air. The Botanic Gar-
ormus *, and once the strongest den merits notice, as it has in some
hold of the Carthaginians in Si- degree recovered from the injuries
cily^ is supposed to possess, at it sustained during the last civil
present, about an hundred and commotions. The two principal
sixty thousand inhabitants ; and Streets of Palermo, one of which,
stands at the base of a natural called the Toledo, is a favou-
amphitheatre, formed by lofty and rite Drive, intersect each other
barren hills, between which and at right angles; and lead into a
the Town lies an uncommonly lux- handsome octangular Piazza, called
uriant and beautiful valley. Pa- Quattro Cantoni, from the centre
lermo (one of the most regularly of which both pMi:s of each Street,
built Cities in Europe) has a and the four principal Gates of the
splendid Quay », called the Marina, City, &re seen. These Gates, about
and furnished with Marble Seats, half a mile distant from each other,
andasmallTheatre; where, during display good architecture. The
summer, a select Band of Musi- Streets are noisy and crowded, like
cians execute music, genei;ally of those of Naples. The Shops (open
(e) Two large and profound inlets of the sea
anciently formed the Harbour of Palermo:
and, according to Diodorus Siculus, this City
was called Hay-e^fcoSi (Panormus) because
the word signifies, in Greek, a deep Harbour.
Palermo and its environs were denominated
hy the Latins, Aurea Valley and Hortus Si-
cUUb.
(/) Amilcar defended himself on Ercta, now
Monte-Pellegrino, near this City, for three
years.
(g^ Foreigners, on arriving in the Harbour
of Palermo, are welcomed by a Boat filled with
a Band of Music.
(A) These Story-tellers exhibit all the year
round, at a given hour, in Palermo, delivering
expositions of Ariosto, Tasso, &c., alternately
exeiting the laughter and the tears of their
hearers ; and receiving, as a recompense from
each of them, a grain or two.
S^d StClLY— PALERMO. [Ch. XI.
in front, and almost innumerable)* under two gilt Mosaic Canopies,
usually constitute the ground -floor each supported by six Columns*,
of private houses, and likewise of The Chiesa del Angela Custode
Religious Establishments for Fe- merits notice ; and the Chiesa di
males, who are placed in the attic S. Simone, likewise called La Mar-
stories ; and the long grated pro- torana, is an interesting specimen
jecting Galleries belonging to each of the combination of Greek, Ara-
of these Monasteries, form a strik- bic, and Norman architecture. This
ing feature of the Toledo. Every Church (rich in marbles) contains,
window in this Street has its Bal- on one side of its splendid High-
cony, supported with wooden props; altar, asolidverde antique Table,
by na.means consistent with splen- The Nuns' Gratings, near the
did architecture ; but, nevertheless. Altar, are silver. The spacious
the Toledo is handsome ; owing Chiesa di S. Giuseppe is remark-
chiefly to its being quite straight, able for its immense marble Co-
and a mile in length. The Piazza in lumns, supposed to be antique,
which the Duomo stands is likewise The Chiesa delV Olivella abounds
handsome ; and this Church, a with costly decorations, and con-
spacious Italian Gothic Structure, tains a Picture of S. Ignatius, at-
exhibiting Saracenic ornaments, tributed to Caravaggio ; though
and dedicated to Saint Rosalia, the more probably the work of Filippo
Patroness of Palermo, contains Paladino"*. /S*. Tita exhibits a fine
the Tomb of the Saint ; whose re- Picture of the Deposition from the
lies are preserved in silver, studded Cross, attributed to Vincenzo Ane--
with diamonds. The Duomo was mole; it is an imitation of Ra-
builtin 1185 ; its exterior has been phael's celebrated Painting on this
at one end restored, and displays subject. The Picture of the Mag-
inlaid figures, and black and white dalene was done by Monrealese".
ornaments. Tlie Capitals of the The Palazzo Reale, in the twelfth
Columns of the Portal are thickly century a Fortress, and the Re-
fretted leaf- work, inthe Saracenic sidence of Ruggiero when Monarch
style. The interior of the Church of Sicily, has, since that period,
is ornamented by eighty Columns been considerably enlarged and im-
of oriental granite, with Capitals proved. The Court of this Edifice
shaped like a turban. The Bishop's is furnished with three tiers of
Throne, and Canons' Stalls, are Corridors, some of them double ;
embellished with Gothic work well and by their connexion with stair-
carved in wood ; the High-altar is cases, they present a singular view
rich in marbles ; and the Ciborio of arches and columns ; appro-
is fifteen feet in height, and com- priate, however, to a warm climate,
posed entirely of lapis lazuji. A The Chapel Royal (on the second
Side-chapel contains four porphyry floor) was begun by Ruggiero, in
Sarcophagi, which enclose there- 1129, and finished thirteen years
mains of the Norman Conte Rug- after. It is a chaste Building of the
f'.ero, his Consort, and other Royal Greco - Araba - Normanna School,
ersons. The porphyry is red, and The Royal Apartments are embel-
very fine ; and the Tombs stand lished with excellent Tapestry, re-
(0 The Si^na over these Shops are carved the interior of the Duomo.
and painted in imitation of life ; and the Bar- (m) In a Side-chapel is a Holy Family, at-
ber's Shop proclaims the Doctor. tributed to Raphael.
(*) This.Tomb is near the Choir ; and not (n) Pietro Novelli, sumamed Monrealese
exhibited to public view, except when the Ffite and born at Monreale, in 1608, studied at
m i5*i°^*'u-*.^'"*'*if-*i. 1 f 1- Ron?e. and was ^ a painter of distinguished
(0 Modern whitewash, the bane of archi merit.
tectural beauty, has destipyed the grandeur of
Ch.XI.] ^ SICILY— PALERMO. 369
presenting the Exploits of Don from various countries, is a Me-
Quixote: and the view from the nagerie of Birds, and among them
Terraces is enchanting. The Bronze the Egyptian Ibis.
Bams, transported by Charles III, The Boyal Chinese Villa, called
from Syracuse to Palermo, merit La Favorita, is embellished with,
notice : they are about five feet pretty Drives, about four miles in
long, three feet high, in a recum- extents The Road from Palermo
bent posture, and very beautiful *. to Monreale, a distance of near
The Palazzo Butera consists of four miles, is excellent. This
magnificent, splendidly furnished, archiepiscopal Town, originally a
and comfortable Apartments, with Saracenic Hamlet, was enlarged
a delightftil Promenade three hun- by William II, sumamed ** The
dred i^t in length, and an awning Good," who, in 1177, erected its
for Summer, situated above the se- Cathedral ; which Edifice, hot
cond Marina. The Torre della long ago, sufiered considerably
Cuba, in a Garden, near Palermo, from fire ; and is now repairing
is a curious Saracenic rectangular at a very large expense, that it
Edifice, with two doorways having niay correspond with the rest of
pointed Arches : its Roof is a semi- the Structure : which displays
circular Dome ; and its upper costly Gates of bronze ; ancient
edgings exhibit Arabic Characters: Columns of granite with elegant
if the blind Windows were ever Capitals ; Columns of porphyry ;,
open, (which, according to appear- a beautiful Pedestal, belonging to
ance, they were not,) this edifice a bronze Statue of S. John the
must have been peculiarly light Baptist, and the Tomb of William
and elegant; at all events, how- I (the Pedestal and the Tomb
ever, the architect who erected it are porphyry) ; the Tomb of Wil-,
was well aware of the beautiful liam II ; and, in the Choir, superb
effect produced by light and lofty Mosaics.
arches. On the outside of the On the Staircase of the annexed
Porta-nuova, but near the City, Monastero dei Canonici Benedet-
is the Torre della Ziza, another tini is a celebrated Painting, by
Saracenic Structure, which, though Monrealese; which represents
injuredby earthquakes, still retains William the Good blessed by S.
a Fountain, a Portico, Columns, Benedict- Monreale stands on an
and Mosaics, belonging to the ori- elevated spot, commanding a lovely
ginal Edifice. The Villa Butera, view : and higher still, on the right,
called Villa 'Wilding, abounds is another Benedictine Convent,
with luxuries. Here are Public the Monastero di S. Martino, su-
Gardens laid out in the English pereminent in beauty of situation,
manner; and, amidst a great va- riches, and splendour, appropriated
riety of exotics, flowering in the to Noblemen only, and more like a
open air, are most of those plants royal residence than a religious re-
wnich require hot-houses in Eng- tirement**. In the superb Hall of
land. Here, likewise, collected entrance is a picture of S. Martino
(o) The entrance to the Senate Hoase dis- dishes are raised from below — on the same
plays several Latin Inscriptions of the time floor, in the large foom, i^ a Table of Petritied
when Sicily was f;overned by the Romans : and Wood, said to have been brought from Pom-
in the Cortile di Spedale, once magnificent, peii; the outside e:1ges resemble agate;
but now a neglected building, is the Fragment and in the adjoining bed- room are two more
of a very animated Fresco, by Monrealese ; Tables of Petrified Wood. The floor over the
and an old Picture of Death on the Pale dining-room contains bed-rooms — still higher
Horse. are the State Apartments; and above them
(p) This Villa cannot be seen without an is a Prospect-room, which exhibits magnifi-
oraer. One room below stairs, near the Bath, cent views.
contains English Prints— on the first floor is (7) On the way to the Monastero di S.
a circular Dumer-Table, so arranged tlta( tbe Martino is a Castle, bnilt by the Normans.
2 B
m SIOILY-FALEJIMO, ^ [CkXI.
on Horsebacky giving his mantle the remains of persons yrha were
to an indigent man. The Rails of not in Holy Orders '. These Ca-
the Staircase are alabaster and Si- tacombs contain Vaults, secured
laAian marble ; the Corridors are by iron doors, where the bodies of
spacious ; and the Refectory con- deceased Monks are deposited for
tains a fine Fresco by Monrealese, half a year : at the end .of which pe-
for which he received two hundred riod they join the assembly of Mum-
and ten ducats. This Convent mies. Monte-Pelleffrino is famed
likewise possesses other good for having been the Retreat of the
Paintings, namely, the Annuncia* amiable Niece of William the
tionby MQurealese; the Daughter Good, Saint Rosalia, who, in the
of Herodias, attributed to Guer- prime of youth and beauly, with-
cino ; a Holy Family, by Titian ; drew from the world, and devoted
and S. John preaching in the De> herself to reli^ous observances. It
9ert, by Paladino. The Church is rises perpenddcularly at the dis-
handsome, its Organ celebrated ; tance of one mile and a half from
and nothing can exceed the splen* Palermo, to the height of nineteen
dour of the Sacerdotal Vestments hundred and sixty«mee feet above
in the Sacristy. The Library con^ the level of the sea ; and Travellers
tains a Chinese Manuscript Die- usually ascend this Mountain on
tionaiy; some beautiful Manu- donkeys by a path called XaS^cra/oS
script 3ibles ; and a Copy of Lu- to the Church of Saint Rosalia ;
ther's Works, with Notes, and Re- in which Priests celebrate Mass
visions, said to be his own. The daily, and receive the offerings
Museum, though not lar^e, is va- made by Pilgrims. This Chur^
luable ; and comprises a Collection leads to a Cmpel, constructed in a
of ancient Sicilian Vases and Me- Grotto covered with Stalactites ;
dais ; a beautiful ancient Glass and where, according to tradition.
Cup ; a Head of Friendship, sup- the Saint secluded herself, and
posed to be Grecian sculpture, and ended her days. Her Statue, well
bearing a Greek Inscription ; to- executed in white marble, lies un-
gether with a mat variety of Sici- der the Altar of the Chapel ; and
iian Marbles, Jasper, and Agates', represents a young and lovely per-
There is a Carnage-road, m ex- son praying fervently ; a Book, a
tent about eight miles, hi^ly and Skull, and a Crucifix are placed
not good, the whole way fi-om Pa- at her side : but the Statue loses
lermo to this Convent. Returning its effect, by being covered with a
hence. Travellers may usually ob- robe of solid gold enriched by
tain permission to go through the precious stones. The Grotto is
Bocca di Falco, a Royal Drive. capacious and sombre. Beyond
The Convent of the Cappuecini, this spot stands a pretty Buildings
about one naile distant from Pa- the roof of which is ornamented
lermo, attracts the notice of IVa- withaStatue of Saint Rosalia: and
Tellers, because the defunct Bre- here parties frequently come firom
thren are dried, dressed, and placed Palermo to dine, and enjoy the
upright in niches, belonging to the view ; which comprehends Ustica,
Catacombs under the conventual (twenty leagues distant), Alicudi,
Church, that their friends may visit and Felicudi, (the most western of
and pray by them, annually, on the bolides,) together with the
the second of November* On the Valley of La Favorita, profusely
floor are wooden coffins enclosing rich, and highly cultivated. A
(r) Ladies are not allowed to enter thia like thoee of the Monks.
Oonrent. . . (0 There is, however, a Carri»ffe-road to
(0 These bodies »re dried, and prcservad, tha tootof Moato-PftUAgrino.
Ch. XL] SICILY— PALERMO. sn
Pestivalinhonour of Saint Rosalia and in this vicinity are Ruins of
is held annually, by the Palermi- an Aqueduct. A Carriage-road
tans, in the month of July, and leads to the Convent'. A Car-r
continues several days ; iuring riage-road likewise leads to a Vil-
which period Palermo is splendidly lage about ten miles distant frqipi
illuminated every night, and abril- Palermo, and called La Bagaria;
liant display of Fireworks exhi- where a Sicilian Nobleman, Prince
bited. This Festival commences Palagonia, built a whimsical Pa-
with a pompous general procession lazzo ; and squandered a l]u*ge
of the Dignitaries of the Church, property in having all the most hi-
and other Clergy, the State-Offi- deous combinations of beings, real
cers, the Military, and other Inha- or imaginary, represented by the
bitants, who conduct through the best sculptors he could engage to
streets a Triumphal Car, preceded work for nim : and a few scattered
by trumpets and kettle-drums. A Monsters, on the approach to the
Platform, about three-quarters the Palazzo, together with one semi-
height of the Machine, contains a circular Court still remaining,
numerous Band of Musicians, who, shew how successftdly he gratified
at intervals, execute, in honour of his eccentric taste. The interior
the Saint, vocal and instrumental of the Mansion contains one Room
music. The length of the Machine (now going fast to decay) with a
is seventy feet, the breadth thirty, Looking-^ass, Ceiling, and Walls
and the height above eighty : it inlaid with Porcelain and Coloured
terminates in aDome, resting on six Glass; the effect of which, when
Corinthian Columns, ornamented lighted up, must have been splen-
with Figures of Saints and Angels r did : and another Room with a
and, elevated on the summit of this Looking-glass Ceiling, a beautiful
Dome, stands a Semi-colossal silver Floor, and Walls completely co-
Statue of Saint Rosalia. Orange- vered by Marble, and Paintings to
plants, Vases filled with Flowers, imitate marble, so well executed^
and artificial Trees of Coral, gar- and skilfully overspread with Glass,
nish the Machine. But the most that it is difiicult to detect the de-
splendid part of the Festival is the ception. This Room contains
Illumination with which it con- China, an elegant Table, and other
eludes ; and which takes place in costly furniture, in good condition,
the Duomo ; where twenty thou- Prince Butera has a Villa at La
sand wax lights, multiplied by mir- Bagaria, remarkably only for a
rors innumerable, are tastefully dis- smcUl Casino in its Garden, repre-
posed, in upward of five hundred senting a Convent, and containing
lustres. Placed on an eminence, the Story of Adelaide and Come-
near the other end of the Concha gio, superbly executed in Wax-
dorOf as Palermo is poetically call- work ^, The fine Bassi-rilievi^
ed, stands the Monastero di Santa brought from Selinuntium to Pom
Maria di Gesu, which should be lermo, should be enquired for by
visited by Travellers, because it Travellers, as Antiquities whieh
commands a particularly fine view particularly merit notice *.
of Palermo ". The Rocks close to The Opera at Palermo is, gene-
the Convent are very beautiful; rally'speaking, good; but the Thea-
(«) Ladies are not admitted into this C«ii-. called Monte-Catalfano, stood the ancient
Tent. Solu$.
(o) Near the path which leads to the Con- Qr) Among these Bassi-rilievi is the Lead
vent is an ancient square Sepulchral Chamber, of Medusa, represented as being covered with
delved in a rock, and containing a Well at hair, instead of serpents: it seems, therefore,
one end. that the latter was, comparatively speaking, a
(to) In this vicinity <m an eminence, now modern invention.
2 B 2
372 SICILY— .EGESTA. [Ch. XI.
tre cannot -vie with that of S. Carlo to the Potters sort, Agathodes,
at Naples ^ . who subjugated the whole island • :
The Palermitans are lively, acute, and about an hundred paces irom
intelligent, and particularly civil the Site of this Town, marked by a
and obliging to British Travellers, few scattered masses of ruins co-
Music and poetiy appear to be the vered with herbs, .is an object of
favourite studies of the upper rank peculiar interest, an ancient quadri-
of persons ; and several Paler- lateral Grecian Doric Edifice, sim-
mitans are versed in the Arabic pie, grand, and almost entire, stand-
and ancient Greek languages. mg, solitary, on an isolated circular
Travellers who wish to make hill, in a bold but desolate country,
the Tour of the Island, usually set Gigantic Steps, three in number,
out on the Cairiage-road, which lead up to the Platform on which
extends some way ; ordering their rests this Temple, (as antiquaries
Mules, or Lettigq, (a litter,) to be suppose it to have been,) and each
in waiting at its termination. of the three first Steps is one foot
The Carriage-roadpasses through and a half in width. The Edifice
Monreale to Alcamo, thirty- one has two Fronts, both terminated by
miles distant fi'om Palermo, and a Pediment. Six Columns, with-
fumished, at the present moment out bases, and placed a few inches
(1827), with an Hotel kept by an within the verge of the Platform,
Abate; which, though small, pos- adorn each Front; each side pre-
sesses thiB comfort of cleanliness, sents twelve Columns, making
The ohve-trees, seen from this road, thii-ty-six in all. The exterior of
are remarkably large ; the country the Temple seems to have bidden'
between Monreale and Alcamo is defiance to time, one Column ex-
beautiful ; and the Butterflies here, cepted ; which, being damaged, was
and in all parts of Sicily, are su- restored (though unskilfiUly) in *
perb. The Town of' Alcamo 1781. The length of the Temple is
abounds with Churches and Re- an hundred and eighty-two Paris
ligious Establishments ; and the feet, taken from the centre of the
neighbouring Mountain produces angular Columns ; and the breadth
superb yellow Marble". After sixty-eight feet. The Columns,
sleeping at Alcamo, Travellers usu- composed of stone, smooth, but
ally proceed, through a dreaiy neither stuccoed nor fluted, are
country, to the ancient JE^esia., about six feet in diameter, and
and thence to Trapani^ a distance thirty feet high ; the intercolum-
of thirty miles. The Temple of niations being uneijual ; the Capi-
iEgesta, and the Site of the Town, tals measure three feet four inches
are nine miles from Alcamo. in height. The construction of the
jEgesta, or, as it was likewise Fabric is such, that, supposing it to
called, Segesta, founded by ^ges- have been a Temple, the high-altar
tus, a Siculian, soon after the must have fronted the east ; but no
Trojan war, owed its destruction vestiges remain of a Cella^ When
(v) Gloves and stockings fabricated with close of the third Panic War, is said to have
the Deard of the Pinna Marina, which is found restored to the inhabitants of the district of
in large quantities at Tarento, may frequently Selesta a fatnoas bronze Statue of Diana,
be purchased at Palermo ; and are well cal- which the Carthaginians had purloined ; and
culated for Travellers who mean to ascend which Cicero saw, du^-ing his Sicilian Qusestor-
to the summit of Mtn&i being so peculiarly ship
warm that medical men recommend them, as C^) Judging from the description given by
a cure for rheumatic pains in the limbs. Vitruvius of Greek Temples, and also from
(mS Several Travellers have taken the there being no remains of a Cella, this Editice
Abafe, who keeps the Hotel at Alcamo, ns was more probably a Basilica, than a Temple,
their Guide to the Sulphureous Hot Springs, though its elevated position bespeaks it the
and Ruins of ^gesta. latter kind of building ; because the anoieiit
(a) Scipio Asrioairos the younger, lit the Greeks, (as already mentiooed,) impressed
Ch. XI.]
SICILY-^TRAPANI-MARS ALA.
373
this Edifice was built is unknown ; been the place where Anchises
and to which of the heathen djvi- died, and where iEneas celebrated
nities it was consecrated, seems funeral games in his father's ho-
uncertain. It' in some measure nour. ' ftom the Port may be seen
resembles the Temple of Neptune the Rock described by Virgil,
at Paestum ; and has much the JEn. III. V. Trapani is strongly
advantage of that Temple, in point fortified, and enriched by Coral
of situation; but in nothing else, and Thunny Fisheries. Ivory,
On the side of a neighbouring
Eminence are Ruins of a -Theatre,
the external Wall of which is com-
posed of large masses of stone ;
Coral, Conchs and Alabaster, are
manufactured in the town; but
ihe Jncisori here cannot vie with
those at Rome. The Hotel at
and rests against the approximate Trapani is a bad one. In this Town
Rock. The form of the Theatre the Carriage-road terminates. After
may be completely traced ; but no sleeping at Trapani, Travellers fre-
yestiges remain of its Scena ; and quently make an excursion to the
its Seats are nearly destroyed. It summit of Eryx, the highest
stands under the ruins of an ancien t Mountain of Sicily, JEtna. excepted.
Castle; which commands a fine The ascent is easy, though tedious,
view of MonS'Eryx, where the and exhibits beautiful scenery,
presumptuous Challenger of Her- Fragments of granite Columns, and
cules was buried *'. Two miles a Fountain, are called the remains
distant fi'om the ancient JEgesta of the celebrated Temple of Venus,
are Sulphureous Hot Springs, which once embellished this spot :
called Acque Se^estane ; which, but of the Tomb of Anchises there
according to Diodorus, gushed are no vestiges. Travellers who
fi"om the eai-th by order of the asQcnd Eryx, usually finish their
Wood Nymphs, to refresh Her- days' journey at Marsala; eighteen
cules after the fatigues of his voy- miles from Trapani ; • the mule-
age to Sicania. On the road to track, between which Towns, lies
Trapani, about one mile distant within view of the sea ^ Marsala
fi'om that Town, is a Church with was erected by the Saracens, on the
a Norman door, and containing Promontory of Lilybaeum, and oh
the famous Madonna of Trapani, the site of an ancient City, likewise
covered with splendid jewels. This called Lilybceum, and a peculiarly
Town, in shape like a Scythe, strong place; which, during the
(whence its original name, Dre- wars between the Romans and
panum)^ stands on an isthmus, Carthaginians, stood a ten years'
near the side of Mount Eryx ; pos- siege. Diodorus gives it the appel-
sesses a safe Harbour, (mentioned lation of " impregnable :" its Mar-
by Virgil,) and is famed for having hour, which the Romans vainly
with an idea that when the deities of Olvmpus
visited their earthly temples they might find
it more convenient to alight on an eminence
than in a plain, always placed these sacred
stmctures in as loftv a situation as possible.
The dimensions of tne Edifice in question, in
Paris feet, are taken from Ferrara's account
of the Antiquities of Sicily : its dimensions,
in English feet, are computed to be as follows.
Exterior length, two hundred feet — breadth,
eighty-eight feet four inches — diameter of the
columns, six feet eight inches — iutercolumni-
ations, about the same. This Edifice, supposed
to be more modem thftn the other Grecian
Doric Temples of Sicily, is less excellent
with respect to architecture.
, (c) Eryx, relying on his great personal
strength, challenged all Strangers to contend
with him in the combat of the cestus. Her«
CTiles accepted the challenge, and Eryx fell.
Kryx erected a Temple to Venus on thia
Mountain, which bears his name ; and where,
we are told, was the Tomb of Anchises.
(e) Travellers, who do not ascend Mount
Eryx, usually procwd from Trapani, through
Marsala and Mazzara, to Castcl-Vetrano ; a
distance of thirty-eight miles.
(/) This mule-track, though not good, is
interesting ; because it displays a view of three
Islands, called ^ne, by Virgil; on one of
which Ulysses is supposed to have been ship-
wrecked; and upon these Rocks JSneas lost
the greater part of his fleet.
374 SICILY—SELINUNTIUM. • [Ch.XI.
endeavoured to destroy, is men- end still joined to the natural bed of
tioned as having been capacious stone ; its diameter is ten feet : se-
and excellent* ; and its vicmity to veral blocks for columns, of the.
the African coast rendered it a same diameter, lie* scattered here
place of great consequence. Near and there; .and among a large
this Port the Romans were defeat- number is one piece of twelve feet
ed, B.C. 249, by the Carthaginians, in diameter, resting on its side,
under Adherbsd ; and the Cartha- That part of the Quarry where the
ginians, under Hanno, lost, near finished columns, &c. were worked
this Port, a battle which terminated out below the level of the ground,
the first Punic war, B.C. 242 ^ contains two Shafts, quite perfect.
The principal Church at Marsalaj . of ten feet in diameter ; and their
the Convento de" P. P, Carmelitani, . component parts appear to have
and the Campanile^ merit notice, been shaped by a circular groove.
The Town is clean : and contains three feet wide, ten feet deep, and
twenty-five thousand inhabitants, just large enough for a man to work
Alter .sleeping here. Travellers in it. The oeconomy, both with
usually proceed through Mazzara respect to room and stone, iti this
to the Stone Quarry south of Cam- Quarry, is curious ; and as no other
po-bello ; and thence to Castel- ancient quarry has been found in
Vetrano; a distance of twenty- the neighbourhood, as the stone
eight miles. The mule-track to this Quarry produces is similar to
Mazzara crosses a dreary heath ; that of which Selinuntium and its
but the Town is environed by a Temples were built, and as the
fruitful country, and contains, in its dimensions of the columns, found
Cathedral, three Sarcophagi, one here, correspond with those which
of which displays good sculpture, ornament the Temples, it seems
The Walls of Mazzara are fortified probable that the materials of which
with brick Towers, twelve feet the Town and Temples were com-
square, and placed about sixty feet posed came from this Quarry, al-
from each -other. The ride to the though between it and Sehnuntium
Stone Quarry, near Campo-Bello, runs an unfordable river. Near
is dreary ; but the Quarry excites Castel- Vetrano the scenery im-
a pecufiar interest ; because the proves ; and the Hotel there is
stone of which it is composed, clean and tolerably good. After
whether destined for shafts of pil- sleeping at Castel- Vetrano, Travel-
lars, or other purposes, was hewn lers usually proceed to Selinuntium,
out of this Quarry in shape and and Sdacca ; a distance of thirty
size preotbsely such as the builder miles.
reit|uired ; instead of being cut into The ride to Selinuntium, through
1(0^ shapeless blocks, and fashion- lanes bordered with white roses,
ed afterwards, according to modem and a path shaded with ilexes as
wasteful practice. The Quarry lies it approaches the sea, is lovely;
east and west : its unworked part and the first view of the three
appears to be about forty feet high ; largest Temples is most striking ;
and in some places the two sides in consequence of the colossal
remain, from between which the mass of ruins they exhibit. Seli-
stone has been taken ; leaving a nuns, or Selinuntium, so called
kind of street. One shaft of a pil- from the Greek word, .^-ix/w, pars-
lar stands by itself, with the lower ley, which herb grew there in pro-.
(jg^ Charles V. destroyed it. remains of ancient Walls composed of soft
(Ji) It is reported that the yiolent rains of , stone stnecoed, Bases and Capitals of Columns,
October, 1826^ by washing away the soil on the ' a Mosaic Pavement sixteen palmi in lensth*
Seach of Capo Boco, where the Harbonr Floors of white marble, &c, &c,
of Lilybseum was utnated, have laid open . . •
Ch. XL] SICILY— SiSLINUNTIUM. 379
fusion, was fbunded, A.U.C. 127, about two hundred En^shfeet M
by a Colony from Hybla-Megara, length, and about eighty in breath ;
on Two HiUs, sloping down gra- and its Portico was supported l^
dually toward the sea, between the thirty-six fluted Columns, each be-
rivers Hypsa and Selinus*. The ing one solid piece of stone. To-
Hill furthest from the sea displays ward the west are ruins of a third
stupendous Ruins of the aforesaid Temple, about two hundred and
Grecian Doric Temples, denomi- forty-two English fefet in lenffth,
nated hj] the Sicilians, Pileri dei and about seventy-seven and a half
Giganti. That toward the east has in breadth : its Columns werefluted-
onfy one of its Columns standing; and the only part now standing of
and this one is without a capitsu ; this Edifice is one square Pilaster,
the whole edifice being thrown down, probably a portion of the CeUa.
scattered, and disjomted; though The Steps of the east Front are
but few things are broken. All the visible. Not far removed from one
Columns of these three Temples of the angles of these prostrate
have fallen outward ; and appa- Temples, hes the Capital of -a, Co-
rently an earthquake, which came lumn, simple like me capMKs at
from east to west, laid them, and Paestum, and fourteen feet in dia-
every sacred edifice at Selinuntium, meter : and several Capitals which
prostrate. The Temple in question present themselves among the re-
seems to have stood upon a Plat- mains of the largest Temide, appear
form, encompassed by Steps about to be of a similar size. These stu-
two English feet in depth, and to pendens Edifices stood equidistant
have been about three hundred and nrom each other, commanding an
thirty-three English feet in length, extensive and beautiful view of the
and near one hundred and forty- sea: and the superb Basn-rilievi
seven in breadth. The exterior from Selinuntium, already men-
angular Columns were channelled, tioned as being now at Palermo,
and those which supported the were discovered by two EngUsh
Portico plain : the Cella was en- Artists, among the ruins of the
closed by small Columns : the central Temple, Three quarters of
Capitals which lie uppermost in a mile distant, at the foot of the
this stupendous pile of gigantic Hill nearest to the Beach, are RuinU
Ruins are elegantly curved ; and supposed to have been Magazines
the quadrilateral pieces of stone belonging to the Port : and on this
have two, four, or six, semi-ellip- Hill are vestiges of the Toum, re-
tical grooves, to receive the ropes mains of two Towers, and also of
for their elevaiion. One solid mass three Temples, apparently not
of stone, which seems to have completed at the penod when they
formed part of an Architrave, is were thrown down. These Tem-
near forty feet long, seven broad pies stood within the Walls of Se*
and three deep ; and one or two of linuntium. The middle Edifice
the Columns (so situated that they had, on each side, seventeen Co-
can be measured) are twelve feet in lumns ; and, at each end, seven»
diameter; others ten feet ten inches, those at the angles included : the
About thirty paces from these Columns wa« channelled; and
Ruins areremains of a 7>mp^, every (according to a Fragment which
part of which lies prostrate, ex- remains of one of them) about
cept one tottering Pilaster. This twenty feet long. The eastern en-
Edifice is computed to have been trance to the CeUa, the outer
(0 Called, by Virgil, " Paimoia Selinus ;** oh account of the plant, Paimtta, With wWch th#
spot abounds.
376 SICILY— AGRIGENtUM. [Ch. XI.
WaHl, and part of the interior trees: its inhabitants are nume-
WaU, may be traced. The Temple rous ; though not in appearance
furthest from the sea ha/^, on eoxih healthy: their Manufacture of
side, sixteen Columns-; and, at Pottery merits notice ; as every
each end, six, those at the angles utensil is made in an elegant an-
included. Here, likewise, the tique form. This Place gave birth
CeUa may be traced ; as may the to Agathocles, whose faSier was a
Steps which led to the eastern manufacturer of the Greco-Siculi
Front of the Edifice. Contiguous Vases. On the south side of the
to this Temple is a Well, formed Town are celebrated Hot Springs^
of pottery, with pipes jointed toge- from which the water issues boil-
ther, and notches in the sides, ing : its smell is offensive ; and it
This Well, probably an ancient deposits, in the channel through
Heservoir for purifying water, is which it passes, a white sulphure-
twenty-three palmi deep, and suffi- ous sediment. At the side of the
ciently large for a man to descend Baths, formed by these Springs,
into it. 'The Steps leading to the is a small open Well, containing
Portico of the third Temple have water reputed to perform miracles
been excavated, and are much if taken daily : and contiguous are
worn away*'. Shelter may be ob- remains of part of the Baths sup-
tained at a Farm-house near Se- posed to have been constructed by
linuntium ; but there is no village Daedalus. The Hill containing
in this vicinity *. The commence- these Hot Springs is now called
ment of the road to Sciacca is S. Calogero". Travellers, who
dull; it crosses the Ponte Belici", sleep at Sciacca, usually proceed,
a Bridge built with stones which next day, to San Patro, a solitary
belonged to the fallen Temples ; House on the banks of the Pla-
and traverses (near the sea) ano- tanus p, and thence to Siculiana,
ther river, on a bar thrown up at in all thirty miles. . Between Sci-
its mouth ; thence passing over a acca and San Patro the road tra-
tedious heath to a fertile spot verses several rivers, on embank-
embellished with beautiful broom, ments constructed to dam up
and afterwards descending to the their mouths for the purpose of
sea shore, in order to cross ano- irrigating immense rice-fields : and
ther river, near Sciacca, the ascent the air in this neighbourhood
to which Town is steep, and the must, consequently, be unwhole-
only Hotel it contains intolerable ". some during warm weather. The
Sciacca, called Termce Selinuntice, country is dreary, and Siculiana is
from its Baths, said to have been a wretched town with a bad Inn.
constructed by Daedalus, is beau- Travellers, who sleep here, usu-
tifully situated, in a rich country ally proceed next morning to Gir~
embellished with magnificent palm- genti, a distance of about twelve
(K) Perhaps it might be in one of these Bastiano Ravita ; who has, about three miles
Temples that the Matrons of Selinantium took from Selinuntium, a Casino, which he some-
refuge, when their Town was stormed, 242 times lends to Travellers who wish to exa-
years after its foundation. — See Diodobus mine the Temples at leisure. It should, how-
bicuLUs, Lib. xiii. ever, be remembered, that the Marsh at Seli-
The Segestines, B. C. 410, having been nuntium produces ifa/* aria,
oppressed and attacked by the Selinuntians, (m) The river Belici, over which this Bridge
imijlored aid from Carthage ; who sent to is thrown, was anciently denominated the
their assistance Hannibal, the Son of Giscon : Hypsa.
and this general, B. C. 409. captured Seli- (n) Trayelleri>, if compelled to sleep at
nuntium, and nearly destroyed it. Sciacca, usually endeavour to obtain a pri-
(f) At Memfrici, about seven miles from vate Lodging.
Selinuntium, Travellers, furnished with a (o) The Rocks, about Sciacca, are thickly
letter of recommendation, are hospitably re- covered with the lee Plant,
ceived, and provided with good beos, by Don (p) Anciently fAe Halycnt
Ch.XI.] SICILY— AGRIGENTUM. • 377
mUes. Not far beyond Siculiana gentum ; and though apparently
are magnificent Tamarisk-trees, magnificent, when seen from a
with stems one foot in diameter : distance, is found, on closer ex-
on approaching Girgenti the road is amination, to consist of small
bordered by superb aloes ; and the houses, and narrow streets. The
first view of the Town crowning a present number of its inhabitants
Hill eleven hundred feet above the is computed to be about twenty
level of the sea, is most beautiful, thousand ; and its Cathedral con-
The Porto Nuovo, or Mole, four tains a Baptismal Fofit, originally
miles to the south of Girgenti, a Sarcophagus discovered m the
presents a busy scene : here are Ditch of ancient Agrigentum, and
immense quantities of sulphur- ornamented with superb Grecian
cake \ with other articles for ex- Sculpture, representing the His-
portation, lining the shore ; ships tory of Hippolytus. The Rthevt
taking in their respective cargoes ; on the north side of this Font are,
and boats loading with com, by however, less good than those on
porters who wade more than knee the other three sides. The north
deep through the water carrying Aisle contains a valuable Pictui*e
their burden in sacks on their of the blessed Virgin and Infant
heads and shoulders. The mo- Saviour, by Guido ; and the Echo
dern Mole of Girgenti may indeed in the Cathedral merits notice '.
be called an Emporium for com. About three quarters of a mile
the staple commodity of Sicily: distant, on the declivity of the
and in this neighbourhood are a Hill crowned by the modem Town,
considerable number of deep Pits, is the site of ancient Agrigentum,
made in the dryest of the indige- or, as some authors call it, Agra-
nous rocks, and shaped somewhat gas, from a contiguous river so
like an egg with the small end up- denominated. This City is said
ward : an opening is left for the to have owed its existence to Co-
admission of the com ; which, calus ; who after receiving and
when perfectly free from damp, is protecting Daedalus, employed him
thrown into the Pit, and excluded in erecting a Fortress here, on a
fi-om air, by the immediate and perpendicular Rock, to which
secure stoppage of the aperture, there was but one avenue ; and
The com, thus preserved, keeps that ohe.so narrow, and winding,
good for several years: it is as to be defensible by three or
thrashed in Sicily, as in Calabria, four men only '. Other writers,
by means of the hoofs of oxen. without noticing this curcumstance.
The Hotel at Girgenti (served suppose the City to have been
by the Bishop's Cook) is tolerably founded either by a Rhodian or
comfortable ; and Sig. Politi, an an Ionian Colony : during its most
Artist who keeps for sale a collec- flourishing state, it contained two
tion of GrecO'Siculi Vases, found hundred thousand inhabitants. Its
in the Tombs at Agrigentum, has government was at first monarchi-
fitted up Apartments for the ac- cal ; then democratic ; and after-
commodation of Travellers. Mo- wards again monarchical under
dem Girgenti stands near the Site Phalaris : and m the fourth year
of the Citadel of the ancient Agri- of the ninety-third Olympiad it
(q) There are Sulphur Mines in this neigh- well with that extracted from the olive,
bourhood; and several Travellers think them (») Beyond the Porta di Mazzara of the
worth visiting. modem Town, is the site of the Citadel snp-
(r) Riedesei mentions that the modern posed to have been constructed by Dsedalus :
Town of Girgenti contains a Spring of Water, and at the Porta del Cannone is the Narrow
whiph, on flowins into a basin, has its surface Path by which the Rock was scaled,
covered with oil, capable of burning equally
m • SICILY— A«RIGENTtJM. . tCh.Xt
was taken and sacked by Amilcar. being composed of stones beauti-
The ancient inhabitants of Agri- fully united without cement. Not
gentum were particularly celebrat- far distant are remains of a spa-
ed for their hospitality, their love cious Doric Temple, which was
of the Arts, and their luxurious consecrated to Ceres and Proser-
style of living. Plato was so much pine; and, according to some
struck by the solidity of their opinions, the oldest sacred Edifice
dwellings, and the sumptuous- at Agrigentum; it is now partly
ness of th«r dinners, that he said, transformed into the Chm-ch of
•' they built, as if they thought S. Biagio '. Further on, at the
themselves immortal, and ate, as eastern extremity of the ancient
if thev expected never to eat City, stands the Temple of Juno
aeain.' Diodorus likewise speaks Ludna, beautifully situated, and
of their luxury; and mentions that commanding a magnificent pro-
- their lai^e vases for water were spect of the sea, mountains, plains,
commonly made of silver, and and modem Town of Girgenti.
their carriages of ivory richly This Temple is placed on a highly
adorned : he also says, that one elevated Platform, encompassed by
of the citizens of Agrigentum, four very deep Steps, whitSi rest on
tvhen returning, victorious, from a Base of four immense layers of
the Olympic Games, entered his stone. The size of the Structure
native Town foDowed by three seems to have been about one
hundred cars, each drawn by four hundred and fifty-four English
white horses sumptuously capa- feet in length, and about fifty- five
risoned: and Diodorus adds, the in breadth. The exterior Columns
horses of Agrigentum were highly, were thirty-four in number, of the
prized for tiieir beauty and swift- Grecian Doric Order, fluted, with-
ness *. Pliny, indeed, asserts, that out bases, and composed of soft
funeral honours were paid to those bad stone : but the whole presents,
who had frequently proved vie- externally, a picturesque clay co-
torious at Olympia ; and that su- lour, those parts excepted which
perb monuments were raised to have been disfigured by modem
their memory; a circumstance reparations. The eastern Front,
confirmed by another classic where (according to general cus-
VV nter, who says he observed, at tom) was the principal entrance to
Agrigentum, sepulchral pyramids, this Temple, displays remains of
erected to the memory of horses \ an exterior Court. The Cella is
In order to see the Antiquities perfect, and at its upper end are
here, without losing time by going four Steps, leading to a Platform ;
needlessly out of the way. Travel- beyond which, another Step leads'
lers should proceed either on foot to what probably was the Sanc-
or on mules, from the modem tuary : but this division of a Cella
Town to the Garden of the Con- is uncommon. The Stones on the
vento di 8. Niccolh, which contains inside of the Cella are reddened
a fine ancient Comice of marble ; by fire ; and some of the internal
and, close by, is a well-preserved work of other parts of the Edifice
mdtcula, m shape quadrilateral, is coloured with Tyrian purple:
and of the Doric Order; its Walls tWrteen Columns, with their Ar-
(0 Silius Itolicns praises tjie Agrrigentine people of AgrigCHtum : — and it is to be
horses ; and tins district is still famous for a wisKed that thfrnodems would imiUte thU
peculiarly fine breed with short necks, very humane example I
{l::tiro??he%it^^^^ '^^^^^^^^^ ^ Bf:l^'^t^ ssj£"„i?/i'^ •*^' fr '•
Ch. XL] SICILY— AGRIGENTUM. S79
chitrave, still remain standing on stroyedy. This Temple rested on
its northern side*. The southern a Platform encompassed by fom*
Kidge, leading from the Temple of Steps, and corresponded in dimen-
Juno Lucina to that of Concord, sions with the two last named
displays a Line of Tombs and Edifices : it is now a confused pile
SeptUchral Chambers apparently of ruins, with only one Column
delved in the solid rocks, of whicn standing. Its columns were chan-
the Walls of the ancient City were nelled. To the west of the Temple
composed : and seviral Vases, all of Hercules are suflficient remams
lying on their sides, have been of one of the ancient City- Gates,
found among these Sepulchres, to prove that it was Doric archi-
which are quite in ruins. tecture : and not far hence is sup-
The Temple of Concord^ by far posed to have been the ancient
the most perfect of any sacred Port. On the outside of this Gate
Edifice of the ancient City, seems is a well-preserved Sepulchral Mo-
to have been erected at a period nument; simple and unpretending ;
when Grecian Doric architecture ornamented with Ionic Columns
had reached its zenith of perfec- and Triglyphs above them ; but, in
tion. This sublime and beautiful shape, Egyptian. It is called the
Structure, which corresponds in Tomb of Theron, an excellent
dimensions with the Temple of Prince who reigned sixteen years
Juno Lucina, rests upon a lofty over the Agrigentines, and died
Platform encompassed by six B.C. 472, universally beloved and
Steps. Its exterior Columns, lamented*. The architecture of
thirty -four in number, stand un- the Tomb in question appears,
injured in their original position, however, of a more recent date;
and are of the Grecian Doric Order, and some antiquaries are of opi-.
without bases, each composed of nion that it was the Grave and
four blocks of stone. The princi- Monument of a Horse. Its Cor-
pal Entrance fronts the east, as nice is destroyed. Beyond this
does the Entrance to the Cella, Tomb, and near the sea, is a mo-
which is quite perfect; except that -dem Edifice, one Wall of which.
Arches are cut in its Walls ; and fabricated with large square stones,
part of one Wall is removed : di- seems to have originally made
lapidations supposed to have taken part of the Temple of JEsculapiusp
place during the middle ages, when which had Grecian Doric Co-
this Temple was dedicated to S. lumns, fluted, without base, and
Greeorio, and used for Christian their diameter was half buried in
worship The Wall of the Cella the Walls of the Temple. These
contains Winding Steps, which Walls, or, more properly speak-
lead to the upper part of the Edi- ing, that which remains, exhibits
fice *. In this vicinity are remains an internal Winding Flight of
of a Temple, supposed to be that Steps, similar to the one already
consecrated to Hercules ; and described in the Cella-Wall of the
which Cicero describes as being Temple of Concord*. Travellers,
near the Forum, now totally de- on returning from the Temple of
(vi) This Temple once contained the cele- Hannibal, the Son of Qiscon, were defttroyinff
brated Picture of an earthly Venus, by the Tombs on the outside of the Walls oj
Zeu^s Agrigentum, a flash of lightning struck
Cs^ Bv ascending these Steps a sight may Theron's Sepulchre, indicating that it wag
be Abtained of laree holes, apparenUy cut to protected by Jove : and Diodorus adds, that a
rJceii? b^ams for lupporting a roof. pestilence ensued in the Carthaginian camp :
r«T The Temple of Hercules once contained that Hannibal and several other persons died
»ei^ibr»ted picture of Alcmena, by Zeuxis. qf this pestilence, and that the destruction of
?«) Diodoi?w Siculus rfeporti, that wh« the Tombs was consequently abandoned .
the Carthaginians, under the command of (o) Cicero mention* a beauUful litUe Sta*
380 SICILY— AGRIGENTUM. [Ch. XI.
^sculapius, before they re-enter cause this Front had- only six Co-
the ancient Gate, should notice lumns : but it does not seem likely
ihe Sarcophagi form&i in the City- that a religious custom should have
Walls ; huge masses of which lie been departed from, in the con-
S rostrate, and seem to have slid struction of a sacred Edifice. The
own from their original i)osition. Gates of the Temple were prodi-
On re-entering the Gate it is usual gious in magnitude, and transcend-
to proceed northward, to the colos- ent in beauty. Each Triglyph be-
sal Temple of Jupiter Olympicus, longing to the exterior architectu-
called, by Biodorus, the largest ral decorations, was ten feet high ;
sacred Edifice in Sicily ; and de- and the Cella had twenty-four Pi-
scribed as a striking proof of the lasters. A great number of sea-
magnificence of its founder^ ; but, shells are observable in the stone
at the present moment, little more which formed this Edifice ; and
than an inamense pile of ruins. It probably, to fill up the natural ca-
was, ill lengtli, about three hun- vities of the stone, the whole build-
dred and sixty-eight English feet ; ing was encrusted with a strong
in breadth about one hundred and stucco. Amidst this stupendous
eighty-eight ; and the diameter of mass of ruins lies the Statue of
its Columns was thirteen feet four an enormous Giant, measuring
inches: they were channelled; and, twenty-seven feet in length: the
according to Diodorus, each chan- curls of his hair form a kind of
nel was sufficiently wide and deep garland ; the legs are each in six
for a man to stand in it^ The pieces; the joints of each leg cor-
Edifice rested on a lofty Platform, respond ; the head is in one piece •* ;
encompassed by several Steps*, and between the head and legs are
On the north and south sides were four pieces, being alternately bi-
■fourteen Columns ; to the east sected ; so that, in the body, are
seven; and to the west only. six. six rows of pieces. This Statue is
These Columns were semi-circular composed of the same soft stone
on the outer part, and squared as the Temple ; and was evidently
within : the intercolumnialions. stuccoed ; for on and about the
presented a Wall; thus forming eyes, stucco may still be seen,
an exterior Temple to contain the Fragments of two other gigantic
Cella. This Temple, immense in Statues of the same description lie
height, and splendid beyond de- near their Fellow-Monster : and it
scription, had two Fronts, each is said that fragments of ten or
adorned with a Pediment contain- twelve *more of these Giants have
ing, in its Tympanum, superb been found not far distant from the
sculpture : that of the eastern Pe- three already mentioned ; and,
diment represented the War of the like thenr,-with elbows bent, and
Giants ; that toward the west, the hands raised, in the attitude of
Capture of Troy ; and here, con- supporting* a weight above their
trary to usage, is supposed to have heads : they are, therefore, sup-
been the principal Entrance ; be- posed to have been Perses*, which
tpc of Apollo (marked on the thigh, in small ^e) Tt is mentioned, in the first Chapter of
silver letters, with the name of Myron), as this Work, speaking of Caryatides', that the
baying graced the Temple of i^scalapius at conquerors of Caria, (once called Phoenicia,
•Agrigentum ; and adds, that the Carthagi- because it was the abode of a Phoenician Co-
nians possessed themselves of this Statue ; lony,) in order to commemorate their triumph
which was restored tp its original ownen by over its inhabitants, erected public edifices,
Scipio. in which the figures of tiie female part of the
(o) The channels were twenty-two inches subjugated people were used instead of co-
ana a half in width, lumns; and when male figures were used in
Cp) On the north side are remains of five. the same manner, the appellation given to
in) Some persons think it consists of two them was ** Persef."
pieceSf
Ch. XI.] SICILY-LICATA— TERRANOVA. 581
formed a secondaiy row of Pillars, like the interior of S.Peter's at
and rested upon the Capitals of .Rome, impresses the human mind
immense Pilasters let into each witli awe, and fits it for tlie wor-
Side-Wall of the interior part of ship of its Creator,
the Temple*^. Channels tO' re- From Girgenti Travellers usually
ceive ropes are visible in the largest proceed through Palma to LiccOa^
stones belonging to this Edifice ; a distance of twenty-eight miles,
which, owing to perpetual wars Palma is pleasantly situated in a
witli Carthage, Ultimately the de- luxuriant valley : but between this
struction of Agrigentum, appears rich district and Licata, the an-
to have been never finished «. The cient Phintia, lies a dreary plain.
next Temple, proceeding in rota- Phintia, situated near the mouth
tion, is that of Castor and Pollux, of the Himera, now the Salso, was
where part of one Wall may be built by Phintias, an Aenrigentine
traced; two channelled Columns Prince, who transported thittier
likewise remain ; and appear to the inhabitants of Gela, when he
have been covered with superb destroyed that town, about four
white stucco. Westward, and be- centuries after its foundation : and
yond the ancient Walls, are two the Promontory stretching into the
fluted Columns and some other sea, on the right of the river, is
remains of an Edifice denomi- the Ecnomos, mentioned by Poly-
nated the Temple of Vulcan, but bius, Diodorus, and Plutarch ;
without good authority; as every where stood the Castle of Phalaris,
vestige of that Temple, which which contained llie bronze Bull,
once stood near Agrigentum, is his famous instrument for tor-
supposed to be annihilated. T?ie turing his subjects ^ Licata has
ancient Bridge, thrown over the risen on the ruins of Phintia ; and
Agra^as, merits observation, displays wider streets . than are
thou^ almost destroyed ; its ma- common in Sicily. Persons for-
terials being used daily, in modem tunate enough to procure a letter
buildings. 2%e67oac^, cut through of recommendation to Sig. Giu-
the rocks, and terminating in a seppe Paraninfo, are most hos-
Cloaca Maxima, likewise deserve pitably received, and comfortably
noticed . lodged, by that Grentleman» who
The stupendous Temples of resides at Licata: but those who
Agrigentum, better worth seeing are under the necessity of going to
than any other antiquities Sicily the Hotel, are wretchedly accom-
contains, are eminently picturesque modated. Travellers, frequently
in point of situation ; and the Tem- rest half a day at Licata ; and then
pie of Concord is peculiai'ly strik- proceed to Terranova, a distance
ing, because nearly perfect : but of eighteen miles, in the afternoon,
neither the transcendent beauty of The road lies on the sea shore ;
this Eidifice, nor the simple gran- and the Hotel at Terranova is tole-
deur of that at ^gesta, are so im- rably good : but persons acquaint-
posing and venerable as the Tem- ed with Mr. Wilding, Prince Bu-
ple of Neptune at Paestum ; which, tera's brother, and a Resident here»
(/) These Gigantic Figures were seen sup* dred and forty-five feet long, by one hundred
porting parts of the Cornice, till the eleventh and sixty-five wide : but neither of these
century. measurements appears nuite correct.
ig) See Diodorits Siculus, Lib. XIII. (A) A Banker, named Granet, who resides
cap. 24. According to this Autnor, the Tem- at Girgenti, and speaks English, is very kind
pie of Jupiter Olympicus, at Agrigentum, and useful to Travellers,
iteems to have been about three hundred and (t) Amilcar carried this Bull to Carthage ;
forty feet long, by one hundred and sixty feet but when that City was taken by Scipio, h«
wide. Other Writers say, it was threc-hun< restored the BuU to the Agrigentines.
38a SICILY— LBNTINI. [Ch. 51.
are entertained at his house most a journey of thirty miles. The
sumptuously. This. Town, built commencement of the road is
by the Emperor Frederick II* rough and steep; but presents a
stands near the Site of the ancient distant viewof ^tna, With Mineo'
Gela; which received its name finely placed on a commanding
from the Geiait a small neigh- eminence. Multitudes, of volcanic
bouring river, and was founded by stones cover the soil : and near
a Rhodian and Cretan Colony, Palagonia is a pass through which
above seven hundred years before a torrent of Lava appears to have
the Christian era ; and, according rolled. Palagonia stands in a pic-
to Thucydides, forty-five years turesque situation, on the side of
after Syracuse. About three hun- a hill, near rocks of lava finely
dred paces to the east of Terra- broken : and beyond this spot beds
nova are Remains of Large £di- of Lava and heaps of volcanic
fices, which mark tiie Site of the stones present themselves great
ancient City. On Medals found part of the way to the Biviere di
here, is the word Gelas;" the Lentini; which Lake lies near the
ancient name of the. river which Town, and causes exhalations so
now flows near Terranova ; and , peculiarly noxious, that they poi-»
moreover, the Greek Inscription son the surrounding country with
relative to Gela, and ' found at Mafaria ". The Town of Lentini
Licata, was previously taken from is the ancient Leoniium ; once
among the Ruins near Terranova. inhabited by the Lsestrygones ;
After sleeping in the last named whence its fields were denominated
Town, Travellers usually proceed Lcestrygonii Campi : its present
to Caltagirone, a distance of appearance is that of a sickly
twenty-four miles ^. The road poverty-stricken place ; and its
passes through a com country: wretched Hotel affords no mat-
the ascent to the Town is long and tresses clean enough to sleep upon,
rapid; the Hotel very tolerable. After spending tiie night here,
Caltagirone, famous for a Manu- Travellers usually proceed to 5y-
factory of small Figures of terrah racuse, a distance of thirty miles.
cotta, beautifully executed, and The first part of the road exhibits
representing the lower class of JEtna. towering majestically above
people in coloured costumes, is a every other object, and Carlentini,
busy Town, and more extensive built and fortified by Charles V ».
than Girgenti. After sleeping at The country is volcanic and beau-
Caltagirone, Travellers usually tiful ; and the road, on approach-
proceed to Palagonia and Lentini; ing Agosta, presents a view of the
(f) Persons who wish to see the Museum —Moulds for casting Masks, and small Sta-
anoKxcavationsof theBaroneOabrieleJudica, tues — a large Phoenician Vase, on which five
usually go from Terranova to Syracuse either rows of African Animala are painted — several
by Biscaru or Chiaramonte^ PalazzolOy (the of the Oreco-Siculi Vasea-r-a splendid CoUec
Baron's place of residence) and part of Hybla tion of Medals, Sec. &c., all of whichAotiquities
Minor : Dut this road is extremely bad : and the Baron wishes to sell. Near Palazxola are
may, indeed, be called danjperous. Baron Statues, about ten feet high, hewn in the n*-
Jndica receives Travellers with great kind- tural rocks.
ness and hospitality : his Museum con- (/) Anciently JIftnoa, or HeracleOy (for it
sists of Vases, and other antiquities, found in had both names,) and built by Minos, when he
approximate Tombs, and Excavations, made came to Sicily in Questof Dsedalus.
on the spot where a Town, belonging to the (m) The Lake ot Lentini conuins myriads
Phoenicians, who colonized in Sicily, appear of Leeches, which might endanger the life of
to have been buried. Remains of Public any person tempted to bathe in its pestiferoiu
Baths, and a Theatre, maybe seen in this waters.
Town ; and the Tombs near it are sauare, or (») This Prince invited the Inhabitants of
obloDg cavities, delved la natural rocks. The Lentini to remove to his new Town ; which ia
Hnseum contains two curious btone Foot- placed in a wholesome air : but they woald
batha—an elegant bronze Lamp, shaped like » not abMidon the tomba of their ancestors
crab — Egyptian Idols — Votive Offerings —
Ch. XI.] SICILY— SYRACUSJE. 963
sea, passes along* a pretty water- two and a half» and in circum^
lane, and goes within sight of what ference six and a half. Its Edi-
appears like a series of Craters fices, public and private, were
united by a contiguous torrent massive and stately ; and its citi-
One of these Craters is very per- zens remarkable for being cmi-
feet ; and its lava seems particu- nently virtuous, or as eminently
larly ancient. The road crosses the wicked : and this was exemplified
torrent, which is ornamented with in two of its most celebrated Cha-
superb oleanders ; and beyond it racters, Archimedes, and the elder
are groves of orange-trees and Dionysius. Syracusae was attack-
pomegranates : but, further on, the ed by the Athenians, both by sea
face of the country changes, and and land, B.C. 414, but the fol-
presents a dreary, barren, and lowing year the Athenians were
rocky waste. discomfited ; and their Leaders,
On the approach to Syracuse is Nicias and Demosthenes, both
t?ie Trophy which wets erected to killed. Dionysius the elder distin-
Marcellus, opposite the Peninsula guished himself greatly in the wars
of Magnesi, formerly Tapso : and waged by his countrymen against
after passing this Trophy the mule- Carthage ; but abusmg the power
path ascends the Scala Grteca, with which they entrusted him, he
goes through Acradina, and then became their Sovereign and their
unites itself with an excellent Tyrant. This great bad man died
newly made road, in a rich and B. C. 368, after having possessed
well cultivated country ; where, the sceptre of Syracusas thirty-
fortified by drawbridges, stands eight years ; and was succeeded by
the modem Siragusa, famous for Dionysius the younger, whose
its Hotel'*, which contains large cruel conduct toward Plato and
airy apartments, and is, in every Dion (the son of Hipparinus) pro-
respect, comfortable. voked the latter to raise an army
Syracusie^ likewise called, by and expel him. This event oc-
the Ancients, Pentapolis, from curred B. C. 357 : ten years after-
comprising within its Walls five wards, hjowever, he regained his
Cities, was founded above seven sceptre; but was finally expeUed
hundred years before the Christian by the Corinthians under Timo-
era, by Archias of Corinth, one of leon ; and became a schoolmaster
the Heraclidae; and in its most at Corinth (as Cicero observes),
flourishing state comprised twelve ** that he might stUl continue to
hun(h-ed thousand inhabitants, ex- play the tyrant, and, because una-
tended above twenty-two English ble any longer to command men,
miles in circumference, and main- exercise his power over boys."
tained an army of an hundred B. C. 212, theSyracusanswhohad
thousand foot, and ten thousand been for three years closely besieged
horse, together with a navy con- by Marcellus, at length relaxed in
sisting of five hundred armed ves- their military duties, during the
sels; It was divided into five nocturnal festival of Diana : and
Parts, namely, Ortt/gia, Acraetina, the Romans, taking advantage of
Tycha, Neapolis, and Epipolce ; this circumstance, made a forcible
and had three Citadels, treble entry at one of the Gates, captured
Walls, and two capacious Har- the City, and placed it under the
hours ; the largest of which is yoke of Rome ; which was much
computed to have been in breadth enriched and" embellished by the
one mile and a quarter, in length paintings and sculpture of Syra-
(o) The Albergo del Sole, near the Duomo. There is another, but a very inferior Inn at
Syracuse, The Leone if oro.
384 SICILY— SYRACUSE. [Ch. XL
CUSSB4. Little noW remains of a shook down its roof. It was erect-
Place once so populous and power- ed on a raised quadrilateral Plat-
ful, but 4 few almost unintelligible form, and displayed forty Columns,
ruins, scattered here and there, fluted, and without base; the
among vineyards, orchards, and shafts being about twenty-five
fields of com. T?ie Island of English feet in height, and the
Ortygia lies southward. The capitals about three feet four
ground rises toward the north ; inches. The Cella was enclosed
and becomes, toward the west, a by Walls, composed of large
Ridge about tiiree miles and a half stones, nicely joined together with-
in length ; at the extremity of out cement ; which Walls have
which is Epipolee. Acradina oc- been cut through, to form com-
cupied the shore fi"om Ortygia to municating Arches with the side-
Trogilus ; Tycha occupied the re- aisles, when it became a Church,
mainder of the plain to Epipolse ; The Columns, on the north side of
and Neapolis was between the the Edifice, are damaged, and built
Great Harbour and a Ridge to into the north wall ; where eleven
the west of Ortygia. Traces of of them may be traced ; those
eighteen Gates, belonging to the on the south side are better pre-
ancient Walls, are discoverable, served; and at tiie west end two
In the Island of Ortygia, now mo- are still visible. In order to visit
dem Syracuse, is the Fountain of the Rivers Anapus and Papyrus,
the Nymph, Arethusa^ ; who, (two branches of the same stream,)
when changed, according to poetic and the district of Epipolee, it is
license, into this stream, received requisite to provide a Boat for
divine honours, as the Patroness crossing the Portus Masnus, and
of the ancient City : but (though ascending the Rivers. The mouth
celebrated b)r Poets, and said, by of ^the Anapus is little more than
Strabo and Diodorus, to have been three boat-lengths in width, but
of such magnitude that it con- veiy deep; the false Papyri (for
tained shoals of sacred fishes, in-: there are two kinds) grow on its
credibly large) this Fountain is banks; which, about midsiunmer,
now reduced to a Tank for washer- are covered witii myriads of flies
women; and presents nothing peculiar to this spot, and having
more than a rill of water flowing four dark coloured wings, and a
from an Aqueduct'. black body tipped with red under
A Temple of the ancient Boric the tail : and at the junction of the
Order, and originally consecrated Anapus with the Papjrrus, but no
to Minerva, likewise stands in the where else, is found a peculiar sort
modem Town. This Edifice, which of shell, called, by the Syracusan
appears to have possessed the boatmen, Cozzola, the inside of
beautiful simplicity and grandeur which resembles mother of pearl,
eonmion to ancient Doric temples, The Papyrus is so narrow that a
was cruelly injured about the boat in .ascending this River
seventh century, by being trans- touches the reeds and canes on its
fiHTiied into a Church ; and is now banks, and is towed along. Near
become the Cathedral of Syracuse : the river stand two gigantic Doric
it suffered again in the twelfth Columns, channelled to within a
century, when an earthquake few feet of the ground ; and these
(p) Marcellag, howeyer, was too good to to have been transformed into a* fountain
commit sacnleufe ; and therefore respected bj Diaoa.
the statues of the gods, and left them in their (r) Charles V, when he fortified Syracuse,
temples. #*v q- vi • r r.. . to taU/ altered the appearance of Uua JFoun-
, <f) Arethusa, one of the Sicelides, 18 fabled tain,
Ch.XI.] SICILY— SYRACUSiE. 385
Columns with some fallen Frag- This ride presents a view of the
mentSt are the only remains now ruined WcUls of Tycha ; and after
visible of a once mag^iificent Edi- ascending a narrow track, the road
fice consecrated to Olympic Jove ; leads to the site of the ancient Gate
whose Statue here, was adorned where Demosthenes made a forci-
by Hiero II, (a Syracusan Mo- ble entry; it then crosses the
narch famed for his virtues,) with a Aqueduct ^vfYiosQ source is thirty
mantle of gold wi'ought from the miles distant, and passes a small
spoils of the Carthaginians: butDi- Naumachia; hence crossing seve-
onysius I (prone to sacrilege) pos- ral ancient Wheel-tracks to the
sessed himself of it, saying, " The Quarries of the Philosophers *, the
Son of Saturn had a garment too ancient Walls on the left of which
heavy for summer, and too cold merit notice ; they are nine feet
for winter ; and should, therefore, thick. Passing to the north side
be provided with one made of of Fort Labdalus, the road goes
woollen cloth, fit for both sea- through a Gateway ^ between the
sons," The Praetor, Verres, the north-east angle of the Fort and a
most rapacious of the Roman line of Walls to the north ; and
Governors of Sicily ', removed this is supposed to have been one
this statue to Rome ; from which entrance to Epipolce ". Ruins of
period the Temple went to decay. Fort Labdalus still remain ; and.
Near the ruins of this Edifice is to the west, is a deep Moat. The
an oblong Well, from twenty to AValls of Neapolis and TVcha
twenty-five feet deep ; and proba- united at the south side of the
bly an ancient Receptacle for pun- Fort ; and Hybla Minor is a con-
fymg water. Hence Travellers spicuous object from this spot,
usually ascend the river to the Near Fort Labdalus is an inte-
Fonte Ciane, passing through fields resting and very extensive Sub-
of hemp". Large quantities of terranean Passage, nine feet
the true and very fine Papyri wide, cut through solid rocks,'
grow near the Fonte Ciane, which lofty enough to admit cavalry,
has a capacious and deep Basin, and supposed to have been made
furnished with remarkably pellucid for the conveyance of troops
water, and abounding with fish, and provisions from one quarter
The adjacent country presents a of the ancient city to another \
pestiferous marsh. At this place Returning hence, and following
Travellers usually dismiss their the course of the Aqueduct, Tra-
boat ; and mounting mules, (sent vellers are shewn several open-
hither expressly to wait for them) ings into the Subterranean Pas-
cross the Anapus on a bridge, and sage, and then conducted to
proceed to that portion of ancient the descent into the Theatre;
Syracusae denominated Neapolis, leaving, on the right, the ancient
(r) See Ciceho's OraJtiont. two hundred peasants, six thousand oxen, and
(s) It U asserted, by the Sicilians, that tlie a great number of persons who cut the stone
farina of hemp in blossom causes Mal'aria ; in the quarries. One architect was assigned
and that no person, who values health, should to every acre. Some of the stones which com-
gleep near hemp fields in blossom. posed this Wall were eighteen feet long ; and
(t) So callea, because supposed to have part of it was very perfect till thrown down
been the prison in which Dionysius confined by Charles V, at the period when he dis-
the Poet Philoxenns, and certain Philoso- mantled Fort Labdalus, and fortified Ortygia.
phers, for not having praised his poetical The Gate by which Marcellus entered the
compositions. Epipolis may still be traced.
(«) Here, according to Diodorus Sicnlus, (t?) This Passage has been explored for
began a Wall, erected by Dionysius the elder, some miles ; and probably might have served,
in twenty days ; and extending, according to among other purposes, as a Sallyport from
some opinions, seven miles. Six thousand the strong Fortress of Labdalus.
masons wer6 employed in this work, besides
2 c
386
SICILY— SYRACUSiE.
[Ch. XI.
Entrance to TfchOy which is cut by Charles V, in his fortifications,
through a solid rock, and bordered, The shape of this immense Theatre
on both sides, with small tombs, exceeds a semi-circle by twenty-se-
and marks of Marble Slabs, re- yen feet four inches, and resembles
ported to have borne Greek In- a horse-shoe : its diameter is one
Bcriptions. Above the level of the hundred and sixteen feet ; and It
Tlieatre the Aqueduct terminates held forty thousand spectators",
in a NymphtBum^ delved in a Two Corridors remain; as do seve-
solid rock : but the water which ral of the Seats : and those in the
produced this Fountain is all lowermost rows appear to have
drawn away to supply Mills, one been cased with marble. The first
of which now stands amidst the Seat of the lowest division is sin-
Seats of the Theatre, at present gularly cut at the back ; and, per-
used as foot-paths for the animals haps, a piece of marble was in-
who carry com to the Mill. The serted here, to form a magisterial
Theatre^ newn out of a rock, was chair. Under the Site of the sixth
called by Cicero " Maodmum ; " Seat, which no longer exists, is a
and Diodorus thought it the Channel for Water y. The specta-
most beautifbl Edifice of the tors enjoyed the accommodation of
kind in Sicily: the view from its an Awning; marks, where the
summit is even now delicious, and poles which supported it were fixed,
must have been astonishingly mag- being still visible. Against the
nificent when SyracusflB shone in Si back of the upper Corridor are
its glory. Few vestiges remain of Greek Inscriptions, (one to each
the Scena; as the materials With Cuneus;) what remain appear to
which it was composed were used have been as follows.
Second Cuneus, BA2IAI22A2 NHPHIA02
Third BA2IAI22A2 *IAI2TIA02
Fourth BA2IAE02 lEPfiNOS
Fifth AI02 OATMniOT
AI 22 2PA2 *PON
Riedesel supposes that the inhabit-
ants of Tycha (from their situation)
occupied the upper part of the
Theatre; those of Acradina the
middle ; and those of Neapolis the
lowest part ; as they inhabited the
plain. The district called Neapolis,
in which this Theatre stands, was
the last built, largest, and most
magnificent part of ancient Syra-
cuse * ; and adjoining to the Theatre
are the celebrated Stone Quarry,
(w) Supposed to have resembled that at
Atnens; and to have been thie Edifice, on
which were inscribed the names of those per-
sons who gained the prize for musical compo-
sitions in the Theatre ; and likewise the place
Where the Tripod of Apollo was deposited,
itnd consecrated.
(jc) This Edifice is wider than the Theatre
at Athens, by eighty-two Roman palmi ; and
snpposed to be the most ancient Grecian
Theatre extant. It seems almost impossible
that the acton conld have been heard in so
immense a Fabric, notwithstaading the aid
and Ear of Dionysitts, The latter
is fifty-eight English feet in height
at the entrance, about seventeen
feet wide, and two hundred and
ten feet long : the sides slope gra-
dually to the summit, and termi-
nate in a small Channel, which
conveyed every sound in the Cave
to an Aperture near the Entrance.
Thus the sounds in this Prison
were all directed to one common
Tympanum ; which communicated
afforded them by masks which contained speak-
ing trumpets, by sounding-plates of bronze,
and by the still more powerml aid of the ap*
proximate rock.
(y) There is, in this Theatre, a contrivance
for preventing the feet of the person behind
from interfering with the comfort of his neigh-
bour in front, by the stone, at the back of each
row of seats, being a little raised. The same
thing may be seen in the Tragic Theatre, at
Pompeii.
(z) Neapolis did not exist till after the Pe-
loponnesian war.
Oh. XL] SICILY— SYRACUSilS. W
vrith a small private Apartnient, now the Garden of the P. P. Cap-^
where Dionysius spent his leisure pucdni, merits notice ; as this Gut-
hours in listening to the discourse den, part of which is near an hun-
of his prisoners. The echo pro- dred feet below the level of the soil,
duced by tearing a piece of dry exhibits a scene peculiarly pictti-
paper is distinctly heard through- resque and beautiful : it has been
out the Cave ; and that produced hewn out of a rock hard as marble j
by firing a pistol is like the report and consisting of gravel, petrified
of a cannon^ and lasts ten seconds, shells, and other marine substances,*
In the Cave are remains of one andthebottom of this vast Quarry^
-Ba/A, just large enough to contain whence, in all probability, most of
one person; an extraordinary cir- the materials for building Syracuste
eumstance, for which antiquaries were taken, is at present covered
eannot account. The Entrance to with a bed of vegetable earth, so
the Ear of Dionysius is /r(wi the fertile as to produce superb oranges,
Quarry, supposed to have been citrons, pomegranates, &c. Part
likewise used as a State Prison, of the Quarry is cut like the Ear
and so large that it has now become of Dionysius ; and on one of the
a Rope Walk. Near the entrance perpendicular masses of stone, (leil
to this picturesque Quarry are to support the roof,) Steps are visi-
Marks where monumental tablets ble, near its summit. Some Greek
were inserted. The Amphitheatre letters, graven in tihe rock, have led
is contiguous : it had four En- antiquaries to conjecture that thri
trances, and was -partly masonry, Athenians, made prisoners in con-
and partly hewn out of solid rocks, sequence of the defeat of Nicias
Under the south Entrance is an and Demosthenes, and afterwardft
Aqueduct, The semi-diameters of liberated fof repeating verses fi-oiri
this Edifice are one hundred and Euripides, were confined here. Un-
thirty- four by eighty-three English der a fig-tree, contiguous to thisJ
feet ; and the Wall of the Podium spot, was found a he^less statue o#
is about eight feet six inches in Venus, iiow in the Syracusan Mri-
height ^. Near the Amphitheatre seum, and a small Statue of j3Sscu-
are Catacombs, now called Le lapius ; the former being excellent
Grotte di S, Giovanni, peculiarly Greek sculpture. Travellers, no*
well constructed, and so immensely pressed for time, should visit thtf
large as to resemble a subterranean Piscina, under the little Church of
city. They are entered by a Pas- S. Nicola, and a most magnificent
sage six feet high, eight feet wide, ancient reservoir for Water. The
and excavated in a right line, so as remains of the ancient Walls of
to form the principal street, above Syraeusae likewise deserve minute
which is an opening for the admis- examination, as they are beauti^
sion of light "and air. Other streets specimens of masonry. The exte-
branch off in various directions ; rior part was perpendicular, the
and all are bordered with Colum- interior shaped into steps ; andtri-
baria. Sepulchral Chambers for angular stones are said to have
families, and an infinite number of formed the upper part of the psira^
oblong Cavities, made to receive pet. Modem Syracuse, computed
the remains of adults, and likewise to be about two miles in circum-
of Children. A Stone Quarry si- ference, exhibits narrow streets,
tuated in Uie ancient -^crarfma, and and a dejected, sickly population,
(6) The Amphitheatre, a Roman work, be- Contiguous to this Edifice are thte9 Colnmni
ing too small for the ancient population of the of marble^ called the remains of a Templcr
City-, is supposed to have oeen oonstrocted erected by the Romans, and d«dioatedtaiCerefl
dunna: its decline. Mtd Preoerpine.
2 C 2
388 SICILY--CATANIA. [Ch. XI.
not aittoutttirtg to more than four- tains niches for urns, and a Sarco-
teen thousand persons: for the phagus. Adjoining is a similar
contiguous Marsnes, and the ex- Tomb, The road, after passing
treme heat of the sun, which is said these Sepulchres, descends the
never to have been obscured one Scala Grcecay cut sloping on the
whole day at Syracuse, make the sides of precipitous rocks, which
climate very unwholesome. The extend on the west toward Fort
modem Town contains a Public Labdalus, and are equally precipi-
Museum ; in which the Ventts, al- tons along the sea coast toward
ready mentioned as having been Ortygia. Near the sea are Stones
found without her head, is by far laid regularly, in various places, as
the finest piece of sculpture. Here, for a road: and further on, to the
likewise, are the Inscriptions, taken left, is a TVall, apparently of Cy-
fromthe Street of the Tombs, &c.; clopian work, and standing where
several Sarcophagi ; the lower part Marcellus pitched his Camp. The
of a fine Basso-rilievo ; and two contiguous Trophy, erected in
small Vases of ancient coloured honour of that great and amiable
glass. The Syracusan wine is par- Roman, displays a base twenty-
ticularly good, and of twelve kinds : four palmi square, and sixteen high,
and the olive-trees in this neigh- on which is a Fragment, probably
bourhood are of an astonishing size of a fluted Column. This Trophy
and age ; some of them being more was, according to report, much in-
than two centuries old. They pro- jured by the earthquake of 1 542 <'.
duce delicious oil. The number of Further on, the road presents a
Papyri growing near the Fontana prospect of Mililli*, together with
Papiria, (or Ciane,) is somewhat Augusta, (built by Frederick II,)
reduced at present; because the andits Harbour; and then becomes
farmers cut and dried them to bind dreary, till it advances toward the
sheaves of grain: but this practice sea, and exhibits a fine view of
is now prohibited ; and paper, re- iEtna. Beyond this spot Travel-
sembling the ancient papyrus, has lers cross the River Giarretta, an-
been recently made with this plant, ciently the Symethiis, in a ferry-
The castor- oil shrub grows in large boat; thence traversing a large
quantities at the sides of the roads bed of Lava, which extends to Ca-
near Syracuse. Travellers, on tania, and was produced by an
leaving this Town, to proceed to Eruption of iEtna, in 1669.
Catania^ a distance of forty-two The first view of Catania and its
miles, retrace their steps through Saracenic domes is striking. iEtna,
ancient SyracusBB, and pass a Tom^ with its thickly inhabited base,
called that of Archimedes , but not towers behind it : and running out
corresponding with Cicero's de- in a line before the Town, and
scription of the Tomb he saw. beyond the present Port, is a stream
Two fluted Doric Columns support of black Lava, of 1 66 9, which again
an Architrave and Frieze with appears at the end of tlie Corse,
Triglyphs, above which is a Pedi- and is a fearful sight ; although the
ment; all these are hewn out of a blocks are now mouldering into
solid rock ; and the interior con- dust. The Strada- Messina may be
(c) Not far remote from Syracase is Nota, Sugar Plantations may still be seen : bat thoy
abeautifiil little Town, containing a collection are kept up merely as objects of curiosity and
of Medals, &c. on sale. pleasure ; the superior quality of West Indian
(d) This district was once famous forSugar sugar having put an end to the cultivation of
Canes, which were sedulously cultivated dur- the Sugar Cane in Sicily, as an article of com-
ing the period when Sicily was obliged to fur- merce. This plant is said to be indigenous to
nish a thousand cwt. of sugar, annually, for the Island: bat whether its use was known to
the Knights of Malta. In the Village of Avola, the ancients, or is a modern discovery, seems
eighteen miles distant from byracuse, smaU uncertain.
Gh. XL]
SICILY— CATANIA.
389
called handsome : but houses with
all their windows shattered, cracked
walls, and columns declining from
their perpendicular, proclaim the
nature of the contiguous Mountain.
Catania, anciently Cattjetna,
(Town of iEtna,) was, according
to some writers, founded by the
Cyclops, and one of their first built
Cities. Other records say it was
founded by a Colony from Chalcis,
seven hundred and fifty-three years
before the Christian era. It now
contains above thirty thousand
inhabitants, and the only Univer-
sity in the Island ; and is, more-
over, the See of a Bishop ; whose
revenues are very considerable;
owing, in great measure, to the
produce of the snow on -^tna : for
this Mountain not only furnishes
Sicily with that healthful com-
modity, but likewise supplies Malta
and several other places. Frozen
several Columns of granite, taken
from the Scena of the ancient
Theatre : its Cupola is superb ; the
Frescos, on the ceiling, are by Cor-
radino ; and on the left side of the
Edifice is a good Picture of S. Aga-
ta, by Paladino. The Arabesques
of the doors of the Cross Aisle,
and the Bassi-rilievt, are by Ga-
gini ; and a Chapel to the north of
the Choir contains fine specimens
of Lava and Alabaster ; one piece of
the red Lava being equally beauti-
ful with rosso antico, though some-
what paler*. The Piazza del
Duomo is ornamented with an
Obelisk of red Egyptian gra?iite,
placed on the back of an Elephant
sculptured in lava. The Obelisk
displays Hieroglyphics, and is sup-
posed to have been made by tne
ancient inhabitants of Catania, in
imitation of the obelisks of Egypt.
The Elephant is one of the works
snow is, strickly speaking, the staff of the lower ages. The Monastero
of life in Sicily, both of the noble-
man and the peasant ; each of whom
dreads a want of it, more than a
famine. Catania was severely in-
jured by the eruption of 1669, and
almost entirely destroyed by the
earthquake of 1693, when great
part of its inhabitants were buried
under the ruins of their houses
and churches: but it rose again.
Phoenix like, from its ashes, so
much increased in beauty as to
rival, if not eclipse, every other
City of the Island— may it never
again fall a prey to volcanic erup-
tions! — It contains good Hotels;
Tfie Elephant Inn, Piazza del
Duomo, which is very comfortable ;
and the Corona doro ; the master
of which Hotel, Sig. Abbate, is an
dei Benedittini especially deserves
notice, on account of having been
so nearly destroyed by the Lava of
1699, tnat its preservation seems
miraculous. The existing Garden
belonging to this Convent is situ-
ated upon the Lava ; which, after
approaching within five yards of
tfie Edifice, turned off to the left ;
on the north side it came within
ten yards, and turned the comer
near the Church, which was
also untouched. But the earth-
quake of 1693 made it necessary
to rebuild this Convent ; and the
present Structure is vast and mag-
nificent: its Church would be
handsome, but for the abominable
whitewash with which the modern
inhabitants of the two Sicilies have
excellent Guide to the summit of spoilt their public edifices. The
^tna. The Cathedral at Catania,
was originally built, and the See
founded, by Ruggiero, in 1193.
Tfie eocisting Cathedral is the
most chaste and elegant Church
Choir is ornamented with fine Carv-
ing in wood : some of the Paintings
are by Cavallucci; the Organ is
excellent, the singing fine, and the
whole service performed with dig-
Sicily possesses: in its Fa9ade are nity and devotion. The Monks
(
e) The Sacristy, belonging to the Duomo, contains a Fresco, which represents the terrible
Eraption of 1669.
aitO SICILY— CATANIA. [Ch. XL
belonging te this Confraternity are during the last oeniury, by ike
the sons of noblemen ; and appear Principe Ignazio Bi^aari, a most
to be persons of education. They amiable, enlightened, and p^itriotio
possess a valuable Museum, which, nobleman, highly deserves notice ;
except it be at their dinner hour, is and Travellers, anxious to see it to
shewn to Travellers of the male advantage, should signify their
sex. This Museum contains above wish, over night, to the principal
three hundred ancient Sicilian Custode ; a gentlemanly, well in-
Vases, exquisitely shaped and formed person; who, thus called
beautifully painted — one vase, with upon, shews the Museum himself,
a black grpund and red figures, The Court-yard contains a small
displaying Etruscan Characters— ancient Obelisk of granite, charged
a collection of Penates in terra- with Hieroglvphics, like that in the
co/to, and bronze — a superb Venus- Piazza del Duomo — ancient Mill-
Anadyomene in bronze — an an- stones, and Sarcophagi, of Lava —
eient circular Lamp for twelve lights and a Pedestal supporting a Vase
— another Lamp for five lights — a of Lava, also ancient and omament-
coUeotion of ancient Sacrificial and ed with Bassi-rilievi^, Among
Family Utensils — a Roman Le- the collection of Bronzes, are — a
gionary Eagle — upward of a thou- Wrestler — Adonis — a Drunken
sand ancient Medals of Sicily, Fftun — Antinous— Julius Csesar —
Magna Graecia, and Greece, pro- several Statues of Venus — Mer-
I>erly so called— Shells— Petnfac- euiy — and a small Hercules. The
lions, and Lavas from i^tna — ^two collection of Egyptian, Etruscan,
Tables of Petrified Shells polished and Latin Antiquities, is large ;
r-rtwo Tables of Ebony and Ivory, and one of the Balances has a
representing the principal events in Weight representing the figure of
the Roman Histoiy — a Table com- Rome. Here, likewise, are an-
prising two hundred varieties of cient Tools, used by Mechanics —
Marbles — and likewise several an- Sacrificial Utensils, and others,
cient Tiles ; one displaying the fi- used in Public Baths — Kitchen
gure of a Woman, and another that Utensils— an ancient Ploughshare
of a Rabbit'. The CAwrcA belong- -r- magnificent bronze Vases, and
\ng to the large and wealthy Con- elegant Lamps, one of which,
vent qf 8. Nicola dAsena is three shaped like a Scenic Mask, may
hundred and fifty English feet in be divided so as to make two.
length, by two hundred and forty Among Ihe collection of Statues
in width ; and contains an Or^an in marble is a Torso, semi-colossal,
^th seventy-four stops, one bemg and found in the ancient Forum of
imit£),tive of drums and cymbals. Catania. According to Riedesel
This Instrument, which is consider- it represented Bacchus, and is in
ed as a capo-doperat was made hy a the very finest style of Grecian
oitben of Catania. The University, sculpture 1 1 This gallery likewise
founded in 1444, bv Alphonso, at contains a Cornice, and a Capital
that period Monarch of Sicily, con- of one of the Columns of the an-
tains a very larse and valuable cient Theatre, excavated by Prince
Library, The Museum formed, Biscan— a Statue of Hercules,
(/) Tlt« Arches of the ancient subterranean bits, most likeljr the latter, to Measiaa,
^tf^ttctures, at Catania, are formed with tiles, where that Quadruped was previously un-
placed, alternately, between pieces of lava : known; and m consequence, ancient Messi-
and the tile inaTked with a Rabbit, or a Hare, nian medals bore the stamp of a hare or a
for it is difficult, in potterv, to distinguish the rabbit, whichever jt might be. *
one from the other, was probably manufactured (^) Ancient bassi-riiievi of Lava were not
at Messina ; as Anaxilaus, Sovereign of Rhe- uncommon at Catania ; several of them havinr
gmm, w satd to have brought hares, qr rab- been found there, in the ancient Baths.
Ch. XI.] SICILY— OATANIA. 391
found in aneient Catanias with one fory ; and fine Speoimena of Amber
leg wanting, which has been iU may be purchased in this City*,
restored — a fine Pedestal— busts of The remains of the ancient Town
Jove, and Caraoalla — ^Venus, with are, geperally speaking, subt^-
a modem nose — a Hero — Scipio, ranean; and were chiefly disco*
with a Sear on the Head — Julius vered by Prince Biscari. Pre-
Caesar — ^Adrian in the character of vious to the year 1669, the Castle
Mars — ^the Statue ofa Muse, found stood on the sea shore, near the
in the ancient Theatre, and beauti* magnificent Mole formed in the
fuUv draped — and Ceres crowned sixteenth century by an Eruption
with ears of com, and supposed to of ^tna ^ , and contiguous to the
represent Li via. Among the ^am- ancient Wall of the Town, with a
rilievi is a beautiful Female Fi- delicious Spring and Stream of
gure seated on one side of an Altar, water at its base. But the Lava
and a graceful manly figure on the of 1669, which ran from the
opposite side, with his hand ex- Monti- Rossi (near Nicolosi) in a
tended, as if he were in the act of direct line to this point, accumu-
adjuration ; and behind the Altar is lating till it rose above the Wall,
a third Figure, witnessing the scene, (near sixty feet high) filling up
Another Basso-rilievo represents ttie sea to a vast extent, and de-
the head of Medusa, and is a fine stroying the Mole, had left, near
Fragment. The Museum contains the haJf-buried Castle, a small
a large collection of Penates — a aperture, which enabled Prince
Cabinet of old Sicilian Costumes ; Biscari to ascertain where the
eight thousand Medals, Roman, Wall of the Town was situated :
Sicilian, and Greek, four hundred and, in consequence, he made an
of which are gold : and this col- excavation, and recovered for hi^
lection comprises the whole series compatriots their regretted Spring
of Consular, and likewise of Im- of water ; to which Travellers are
perial Roman Medals \ Here now conducted down, by a Stair-
also is a Philosophical Cabinet, case of sixty-three Steps in the
which contains two exquisite La- midst of solid Lava. This Sprint
chrymatories of ancient coloured is perfectly translucent. The Ureeh
glass — a collection of Armour, 7««a^re, over which modem houses
and curious Musquetry — a good are now built, appears to have
collection of Shells, and Sicilian stood on the side of a hill, and
Marbles — Specimens of the iEtna was larger than the Theatre of
and Lipari Lavas — together with Marcellus at Rome. Its columns
upward of four huncked ancient were used by Ruggiero to ornament
Sicilian Vases of pottery, found the Cathedral erected at his com-
in and near Catania; some of mand; and the hand of Ignorance
them m£^^nificent in point of size, seems to have destroyed, during
aU beautifully shaped, and several the dark ages, most of its decora-
superbly painted. One of these tions. Three Corridors and seven
Vases IS highly prized for having Rows of Seats have been exca-
a white ground, not often met vated ; and enough of the Scena
with ; and another exhibits four remains to shew the Three Doors
horses harnessed to a war-chariot, of Entrance for the actors ^ An
Catania contains a Silk Manufac- Aqueduct is hkewise discoverable
(Ky Man^ of the Sicilian medals record the excellent.
filial piety of Anapius and Amphinomus, na- (k) Nature had not c;iven Catania a good
tives of Catania, who, aa already mentioned, Harbour; but JEtna fully supplied this defi-
^aved their Parents from death, during aa oieAcy, by the above-named Mole, beyond the
Eruption of iEtna. power of man to have constructed.
' m The fruit, wine, apd indeed all the (0 We are told that this Theatre existed
productions of Catania, and its environs, are during the second attack of the Atheniaiui
392 SICILY— CATANIA. [Ch. XT.
here. The present Entrance is by has a hemispherical Cupola. The
the ancient Stairs of the Theatre ; style of the Edifice, and the In-
and to the right of these, are se- scriptions, are Roman. Behind
veral otlier ancient Steps, leading tfie Monastero dei Benedittini, in
to the OdeufHy which was only one the midst of Lava, are several
hundred and forty-five feet in dia- Arches of a magnificent Aqueduct,
meter. Both Theatres were con- which brought water to Catania
structed with ^Etna Lava ; and from Licodia, sixteen miles distant :
perhaps, in the dramatic exhibi- this, too, is Roman work. The
tions here, Tisias, sumamed Ste- Garden of the P. P. Cappucdni
sichorus, who resided and died at contains a well-preserved circular
Catania, might have first taught ' ancient Tomb; together with ruins
the Chorus to become stationary of an ancient Pyramid^ small, but
and chant, accompanied by music, similar in construction to those of
Near the Porta di Aci, likewise Egypt. Toward the northern part
called Porta- Stesicorea, fi'om the of the modern City, near the Bos-
Tomb of Stesichorus having been tione degl ' Infetti, are remains of
placed here, are subterranean re- a large Structure of excellent Greek
mains of the immense Amphi- masonry, supposed to be part of
theatre erected by the Roman the celebrated Temple of Ceres, to
Colony Augustus established at which females only were allowed
Catama. But, when gladiatorial access ; and whence a peculiarly
shows were abolished, this colos- fine Statue of the goddess was
sean Edifice was neglected ; and stolen, by Verres. Westward, be-
at length became a mass of ruins : yond the Walls of the City, are
in consequence of which, the peo- a considerable number of ancient
pie of Catania asked permission Tombs, At the Chiesa delta Mecca
of Theodosius, to use some of the is a well-preserved Columbarium ;
materials for repairing their walls ; and another may be found in the
which permission was given, and Garden belonging to the Minoriti.
profited by, in other instances. Beyond the Palermo -Gate of
' The circumference of this Edifice Catania, and extending for some
is reported to have been a thou- miles, is a good Carriage-road ;
sand feet : several of its Corridors and the whole way between Ca-
are excavated ; and the lowest tania and Termini a Carriage-
exhibits Dens for wild-beasts. On road is forming,
the western side are large Chan- Persons who mean to ascend
nels for Water; which might pro- ^tna, in order to view the rising
bably have been let into the Arena sun firom its summit, should pro-
when naval combats were repre- vide themselves with strong thick-
sented. The Amphitheatre was soled half- boots ; those lined
built on the side of a hill. In the with fur are the most comfortable;
Fopowrj&aM*, excavated by Prince gloves lined with fur; woollen
Biscaii, the Waiting-room, and stockings ; and travelling caps
Furnaces, still exist " : and under lined with fur. Thick veils are
the Convento de " Carmelitani is likewise extremely useful to guard
another ancient Structure, sup- the eyes, and prevent the suiphu-
posed to have belonged to Public reous clouds which firequently roll
Baths. Its form is octagonal : its down JE\n& fi-om affecting the
diameter thirty-three feet; and it breath. Light, but very warm
upon the Syracasans ; and that Alcibiades, (m) Balls of Lava, found near the Furnaeea,
the Athenian general, pronounced an oration have led antianaries to conjecture that these
here. balls were made red*hot, and used for keeping
The Upper Corridor seems to have been up the heat of fires,
furnished xrith Boxes, for female Spectators.
Ch. XL] SICILY— ^TNA. 393
pelisses, or great-coats, are also visit to Sicily originated merely
needful ; and Sicilian travelling from a wish to examine the Crater
cloaks, with hoods, the whole made of -ffitna ; and Adrian ascended
of leather, are particularly conve- this Mountain to contemplate the
nient, as they exclude rain. A rising sun from its summit. Its
strong walking-stick, with an iron Base, computed to" be above forty
spike at the end, is likewise a leagues in circumference, is full
great convenience between the of Conical HiUs : and this first
Casa degli Inglesi and the summit Region likewise displays Villages,
of the Mountain. Mattresses, Co- Gardens, Vineyards, Fields of Flax
verlids, a Tinder-box and Matches; and Hemp, Hedges of Aloes;
Lamp-oil, a Lantern containing a Olive and Orange-trees, and the
Lamp, Water, and a Kettle for Date-bearing Palm. The second
heating it; Carbonella"^ \ an earth- /?eg-i072, called Bosco di Patemo,
en Pipkin filled with strong is covered with Ilexes; and, to-
Soup in jelly ; CoiFee, Sugar, ward the north, with Pines. The-
Wine, powerful enough to be soil here being Lava converted by
mixed with hot water, and Rum, the hand of Time into rich vege-
or Brandy, for the Guides, are table earth, yields aromatic Herbs,
necessary appendages to this ex- and Flowers of various descrip-
pedition. Travellers, however, tions, mingled with Fern : but be-
should, on' no consideration, fol- yond the Grotta delle Capre, for-
low the example of their Guides, merly used as a shelter for Travel-
by drinking spuits, to fortify them- lers, the trees become fewer in
selves against the intense cold in number, deformed, and dwarfish,
the uppermost region of -ZEtna ; till, at length, they degenerate into
as the purpose would not be an- shrubs, and are lost amidst volca-
swered; and illness might pro- nic sand. Here commences the
bably ensue. It has been already third Region, consisting of Scoriae,
mentioned that the Master of the Ashes, and Snow ; and leading to a
Corona d'oro at Catania is an Platform, in the centre of which is
excellent Guide for -^tna: but,, the Crater. The ascent to this
in case of danger, the Mules and platform presents no difficulty with
Guides of Catania cannot be so respect to its steepness; but the
much depended upon as those of excessive coldness of the air on so
Nicolosi ; and therefore Travellers elevated a spot, and the gusts of
often prefer the latter '*, wind, and clouds of sulphur, which
An ascent to the summit of sometimes assail Travellers, are
JEtna is unprofitable, and seldom distressing ; and if not properly
practicable, unless the weather be guarded against, dangerous. There
serene and settled. are now two Refuges, or Resting
This mountain rises more than Places, for Travellers on iEtna,
ten thousand feet above the level the Casa delta Neve, consisting of
of the sea p. Pindar mentions it one room only, about thirty feet
as an active volcano : Homer is long, and originally built to snelter
silent on the subject \ Probably, peasants employed in collecting
therefore, no Eruption had taken snow ; and the Casa degli Inglesi,
place in his days. Plato's first consisting of three rooms, a small
(n) Persons w&o intend sleeping at the one hundred and ninety-eight Paris feet above
Casa degli Inglesi, on ^tna, where there is a the level of the sea; and, according to £ng-
kitchen, would find Charcoal more useful liah measurement, ten thousand and thirty-
than Carbonelta. two feet above the same level.
(o) The peasants of £tna are celebrated (g) Homer's descriptions of countries are
for being robust, intrepid, civil, and honest. even now geographically true; and therefore
(f ) According to Ferrara, it is ten thousand his silence is strong presumptive proof.
394
SlCILY--iETNA.
[Oh. XI.
1(itchra, and a stable fbr mules ; Catania to Nieolosi the country is
and erected at the expense of British covered with small villages, well
Officers quartered in Messina, A.D. cultivated farms, and a profusion
1810'. The warm clothing requisite of fruit: and in sight of Nicolosi
for Travellers who ascend to the is a small Crater of an inconside-
Crater, should be put on in the first rable depth, near the road. We
Refuge : and it is Ukewise advisa- reached Nicolosi, which is twelve
ble to have extra- wrappers, carried miles from Catania, at a quarter
by the Guides, to be worn by Tra- past eleven : and at ten minutes
yeUers on their arrival at the Crater, after twelve, mounted fresh mules.
The great object in visiting ^tna and took two Muleteers, together
is to see, from its summit, the with Vincenzo Carbonaro, and
rising of the sun ; the Pyramid another Guide. We then travelled
formed by the Shadow of the Cone, over a plain of fine sand ; having,
and the panoramic View over the on our left, Monte-Rosso, whence
whole Island. issued the destructive torrent of
To the east of the path which Lava, which, in 1669, overwhelmed
descends from the Crater are Ruins, Catania. Clouds now began to
called La Torre del Filosofo, and form on ^Etna ; and thunder re-
. supposed to have been an Altar sounded Uke cannon : but, never-
or iEdicula, raised by the Romans, theless, our Guides said, IJie wea-
when they possessed Sicily, to ther would prove favourable. After
iEtnean Jove *. crossing afield of Lava, we reached
An English Gentleman and his the Bosqq, or vxiody Region, which
Wife, who ascended to the Crater resembles a park : and here we
of iStna at Midsummer, 1826, heard the Cucco and saw May in
under the direction of Vincenzo full blossom: but, owing to va-
Carbonaro, a judicious Nicolosi nous streams of Lava, we were
Guide, give the following report of obliged to take a zigzag path, in
their Journey. some places unpleasant. The
" The weather being favourable, Bosco consists chiefly of stunted
and the Mountain clear, we set ilexes ; and as we ascended tlu-ough
put, at half-past eight in the morn- it, the thunder continued ; though
ing, from Catania ; where Fahren- the clouds did hot concejd the
heit's thermometer was 71: and summit of Monte- Agnola. We
soon leaving the new road which now perceived a sensible difference
leads to Messina, reached an im- in temperature ; and, before our
mense sheet of Lava, commonly arrival at the Refuse, the thermo-
called the Port of Ulysses, and meter fell to 66, This i^^i^e, seven
supposed to have been that, de- miles from Nicolosi, and called the.
Casa delta Neve, we reached at a
quarter before two. The Hut has
no door ; and several of the tiles
have been blown off its roof; but
scribed by Homer, as •• commo-
dious^; but iEtna has so com-^
fletely filled it with Lava, that this
^ort cannot easily be traced. From
(r) The Key of tlie Casa degli Inglesi Js
kept ftt Nicolosi, by Sig. Mario Gemellara,
who resides there ; and Travellers should call
for it as they pass.
(*) Diodorus says, there were several Al-
tars, in Sicily, thus dedicated.
(0 See Homer's Odyssey^ Book IX. Ho-
mer's description, however, cannot be expected
to agree in this instance with present appear-
ances; as all the Eruptions of J&lnA (immense
in number) are supposed to haye taken place
subsequent to his time. He flourished, ac-
cording to the Arundelian Marbles, aboT«
nine hundred years before the Christian era ;
and Pindar, who, as already mentioned, gives
the first account of an Eruption of ^tna, was
not born till more than five hundred years
after the death of Homer. Thucydides is, next
to Pindar, the earliest authority who speaks
of an Eruption : and he describes it as havinv
occurred between the eleventh Olympiad,
B, C. 736, and the seventy-fifth Olympiad,
B. C. 479.-.Be«. Pc?op, L. 3. **'*
Qh, XL] aiCILY^^TNA. 995
plaoing our mattresses in the dryest at three o'clock, on foot, aceom-
part of the v^t pavement, and panied by our Guides ; who told
pailing a coverlid over the door- us the Walk to the Crater would
way, we dined, and went to bed. occupy about an hour . Between
The Guides and Muleteers slept the Refuge and the Base of the
round an immense fire, on the pone we crossed a considerable
outside of the Hut : and at ten tract of frozen Snow and Lava ;
o'clock at night we got up, took finding the walk over the former
coifee and bread, and put on not unpleasant ; but, owing to the
warm <?lothing. The clouds had want of daylight, it was very trou-
dispersed ; the stars shone bri^htlv; blesome to cross the Lava. On
and the Guides said, we should approaching the summit of the
have a fine ascent ; especially as Cone we found ourselves in a cloud
the wind (the thing of all others of suli)hur ; and were ordered, by
they fear naost) had subsided* At the guides to move quickly to the
half-past eleven, when the moon westward ; by doing which we
rose, we set out ; leaving our mat- soon got out of this smoke, so
tresses, ^c, in the care of a lad : dense, that it nearly blinded us for
and, before quitting the Bosco, we the moment. The edge of the
passed the Grotia delle Capre^ a Cone of ^tna is much wider than
small Cave formed by Lava. On that of Vesuvius, less sandy, and
quitting the Bosco, we found the the path round it perfectly ss^e to
degree of cold increase ; the ascent walk upon. The ascent likewise,
likewise became steeper ; and a though longer, is preferable to that
slight wind arose. Here the moon, of Vesuvius ; bemg firmer, and
reflected in the Biviere di Lentini, abounding with large stones, which
was ^ beautiful object. Previous afford good footing. We sat down
to reaching the snow the ascent on the Lava, which was heated by
became much steeper; the cold its numerous vapour apertures;
increased, and one of our party but, nevertheless, could not keep
}ost, for a short time, the use of a ourselves tolerably warm. In a
finger. On reaching the snow, we quarter of an hour, however, a
found it hard, and very slippery; gleam of light, over Calabria, an-
insomuch that the mules could nounced a brilliant sunrise: and^
scarce keep upon their legs : how- though the sun was partially con<*
ever, we arrived without any acci- eealed by clouds, their tints in-
dent at the Casa degli inglen, creased the beauty of the scene,
(during Summer the usual sleeping Other clouds, floating on the sea,
place on -^tna") about a quarter looked like wool, and almost hid
past two in the morning. The the tops of Lipari, and Vulcano :
distance from the Casa della Neve but these clouds soon dispersed :
to the Casa degli Inglesi is eight and we then saw Stromboli, and
miles. The floors of the latter the neighbouring Islands, distinct-
Refuge were covered with ice ; \y. Our view over the circuit of
and &e chairs and table wet with Sicily was magnificent. Every
drippings &om the roof. Having mountain we looked upon seemed
^ade a fire, and boiled some snow, shrunk to a hillock ; but Me-
we took soup, and warm wine and lazzo, Castro-Giovanni, the Bi-
water: after which, leaving the viere di Lentini, Augusta, and
mules in the Refuge, we proceeded, ancient Syracusae, were very con-
(«) The snow which, durine winter, had ac- was consequently so wet, that to sleep in it
cumulated in tiie Casa degli Inglesi, owing to would have been dangerous,
the roof being out of rfepair, was only jnst (») It is, however advisable to allow an
cleared away when the party in question lifixit and a half; in order not to be disap-
went to the summit of £tna; and the Refiige pointed of seeing the sunnse.
396
SICILY— iETN A.
[Ch. XL
spicuous objects. When the wind
cleared away the vapours, we
occasionally saw down the Cra-
ter of ^tna; which, in some
places, is not precipitous : to walk
round it occupies about an hour :
but it has none of the gran-
deur displayed by the Crater of
Vesuvius, which is nearly twice
its size, with respect to circum-
ference. A most curious and
singular sight was the shadow of
the Cone of Mtna, in the shape
of a Pyramid, formed, apparently
at a distance, over the south side
of Sicily. As the sun rose, this
Pyramid decreased in height. The
thermometer, on the summit of
iEtna, fell to thirty. We quitted
this stupendous scene with the
greatest regret : and passing, once
more, through sulphur vapours,
commenced our descent, at a
steady walking pace. The lofti-
ness of the Cone was now appa-
rent ; and we felt surprised to see
how high we had ascended. After
taking refreshments at the Casa
degli Inglesi, we remounted our
mules. Hence the descent was
rapid ; snow nearly covered the
Piano del Lago; and, passing
Montaguista, we went close to
piles of Lava, and had the steepest
part of ^tna to descend : but
about eight in the morning we
reached the Bosco ; took off our
extra-clothing at the Casa delta
Neve, and arrived, by ten o'clock,
at Nicolosi ; where, not being ex-
pected till a much later hour, we
were detained some time in chang-
ing the mules. During the descent
it was interesting to observe the
numerous Craters ; but, proceed-
ing rapidly without diverging from
our course to examine any of them,
we reached Catania a quarter before
one : and Abbate declared ours was
the quickest return he knew of.
The thermometer in the shade at
Catania, about an hour after oiu*
arrival, was 77,'"
A party of English Gentlemen,
who ascended to the Crater of
i^tna the end of November, 1 824,
under the direction of Abbate,
give the following account of their
journey.
- ' Being advised, by Abbate, to
sleep at the first Refuge, the Casa
della Neve, we did not set out from
Catania till eleven in the morning.
The conical hills in the first Re-
gion of -^tna appear to be formed
by ashes, stones, &c., which the
earth emits at the point where it
opened to discharge lava: and,
after a certain length of time, cu-
rious crystals are found in these
hills. Dining at Nicolosi, we re-
commenced our journey soon
enough to arrive just before night
at the Casa della Neve; which
stands at the top of the Bosco.
This Refuge is a hut with half its
tiles off; and the table, chairs,
and door it once possessed, have
all been burnt by naif frozen Tra-
vellers. Here were ourselves, and
six mules, the Muleteers, the
Guides, &?c., a fire made with
green wood, and a thick smoke,
which threatened to stifle us all,
for it would not draw through the
holes among the tiles ; and the
Hut has no chimney. We had
provided mattresses : and after
supper lay down to sleep, if we
could, wrapped in our leathern
Sicilian cloaks ; which proved
most useful. The Guides, Mule-
teers, &c. sat round the fire : and
soon after two o'clock in the morn-
ing we all started for the Casa
degli Inglesi; which our Guides
told us was a three hours' ride.
On quitting the Bosco, we found
the cold excessive ; insomuch that
it was scarce possible to speak,
till we reached the shelter of t/ie
Casa degli Inglesi, Here, one of
the servants became sick and
giddy ; and one of the Gentle-
men found his feet so completely
benumbed that it was some time
(w) The common effect of intense cold upon Foreigners, on the heights of iEtna, after
drinking spirits.
Ch. XI.] SICILY— SCOPULI CYCLOPUM. 397.
before he recovered the use of rubs off with the slightest Miction,
them. However, this Refuge was On our descent we visited the
in better repair than the other ; Torre del Filosofo ; thence pro-
and a good fire cheered us all * . ceeding eastward, till the Guides
The situation of the Casa degli bandaged our eyes, and led us to
Inglesi is so elevated that even a point, the Brink of the Val del
during Summer, when Travellers. Bue^ where, on sight being re-
usually sleep here, they are obliged stored, we beheld a lofty Precipice,
to have fires. On quitting this and a tremendous Crater. Hence
Refuge, we found the weather we descended to the Casa della
good; and experienced no incon- Neve: and, the day being much
venience in our ascent to the Cra- advanced, were under the necessity
ter, except a difiiculty of breath- of sleeping at Nicolosi, in an
ing ; and this partly resulted from Hotel more distinguished for the
the hoods of the Sicilian cloaks, civiUty and attention of its Land-
which the extreme cold compelled lord, than for his means of render-
us to put on. The sun had risen ing the house comfortable."
a quarter of an hour before we Oj^ leaving Catania, Travellers
reached the summit of ^Etna, and usually proceed to Giarra ; a dis-
was a. little (though a very little) tance of twenty-four miles. Be-
clouded ; but overhead, and aU tween Catania and L'Ognina,
around us, we had a beautiful which stands on part of the site of
clear sky, except toward the what is called (perhaps erroneous -
north, where clouds lay close upon ly) the Port of Ulysses, the road
the land. It was a few minutes traverses the Lava of 1669; and
past eight when we arrived at the soon after passes Castello di Aci,
Crater ; whence huge volumes of a strongly situated Fortress built
sulphureous smoke were issuing : upon ancient Lava which ran into
and the wind, being high, in- the sea ; and surrounded on three
volved us in a smau portion of sides by that element. The next
this smoke, toward the latter part of objects of interest, during this ride,
our ascent. The Crater is angular, ai*e the Scopuli Cyctopum, at
and of a prodigious depth ; it was Trizza. The largest of these Is-
partially obscured by vapours ; lands is volcanic and basaltic ; and
which, on rising into the air, were the substruction is a species of
tinted with a variety of brilliant yellowish chalk, which contains
colours by the sun : but the cold small crystals. On the summit is
was so intense that we could a Spring of fresh water. The next
scarce continue for a quarter of an Island contains very fine basaltic
hour in this exalted situation; Columns. In all there are seven Is-
(where Fahrenheit's thermometer lands adjoining each other ; though
fell to 18) although our feet, from only three bear the name of Sco-
having sunk some way into the puli. Some writers conjecture
sooty ground, were warm : and on that these are the Rocks described
removing pai't of the soot to look by Homer, as being near the Cave
for sulphur spars, we found the of the Cannibal, Polyphemus, who
heat as strong as the hand could feasted on the ill-fated followers of
bear. These specimens of sulphur Ulysses : but as these Rocks are
are the most beautiful, and the decidedly volcanic, and apparently
most deceptive things imaginable : the offspring of ^Etna, they could
for their delicate and lovely bloom not have existed till long after
(«) Travellers should be careful not to ap- fered agonies, and became indeed extremelj
pToach very near these fires : for a Peasant, ill, by putting his bare feet close to a largq
Vho ftttenaed this party of Gentlemen, suf^ fire.
m SIGILY—TAUROMINIUM. [Ch. XL
Homep*s death. Between Triz«a the country renders the ride de-
and Aci ReaJe the road crosses Hghtfiil. Trayellers tempted by the
hxx^e blocks of ancient Lava mixed hospitality of the British Vice-Con-
With thick turf ; which renders the sul, or any other cause^ to rest half
footing for mules in several places a day at Giarrft, usuaUy take, next
very unpleasant* Near Aci Reale, morning, a circuitous route^ by
on the sea shore, is another object going to Frannavilla ; another de-
of interest, the Scotia di Aci, or lightful ride ; and thence to Giar^
Steps of Ads; according to fabu- dini; which is Only eleven milea
lous history the spot where that from Giarra ; though, taking the
Shepherd was murdered by his circuitous route, this ride occupies
Rival. These Steps consist of eleven hours : but Travellers ap«
ancient strata of Lava, one above amply repaid Ijy the beauty of th^
another, with a layer of vegetable scene. The mule-track from Giarra
earth between each. There are, to Francavilla passes through Ga-
at least, nine strata ; all formed by latabiano, a picturesque village,
different Eruptions : and a consi- overhung by a Castle : thence it
derable time must have elapsed follows the course of the river Al*
between each Eruption, to have cantara, up a lovely valley, adorned
aiowed the formation of soil. The with a view of Motta, crowning a
mule-track in the environs of Aci, lofty rock; and likewise with a
though it fraverses beds of Lava, view of Castiglione, finely placed
is not bad : and the country, the on a conical mount. After cross-
whole way hence to Giarra, is ing a wild brook, with a cascade,
beautiful. This Town contains a this sweetly variegated path reaches
tolerable Hotel, furnished with Francavilla ; where Travellers
clean beds; and the neatness of should ascend the hill, to see a
the houses, and the number of ves- magnificent prospect ; in which the
Sels building in the Port, announce Capuchin Convent forms the grand
the prosperity of the inhabitants, object. TraveUers may vary this
After sleeping here, Travellers usu- scene, by going to Francavilla on
ally make an Excursion, which one side of the Alcantara, and re-
occupies about five hours, to visit turning on the other. Thrown
some gigantic Chesnut-trees ; one over the river is an ancient Bridge,
of which is called Castagno di now a pile of ruins, whence the
cento Cavalli, It now looks like retrospective view may, with truths
six trees close together: and the be called enchanting. The dis-
fact seems to be, that it is a fine tance from Giarra to Francavilla is
old Stock, whence the common eighteen miles ; and thence to Gi-
kind of chesnut underwood was ardini, ten. After sleeping at the
cut ; and that six sprays were al- latter place, which contains a tole-
lowed to form the six trees in ques- rable Hotel, Travellers usually pro-
tion ; which are computed to be an ceed through Taormina to il/e9«fna,
hundred and ninety teet in circum- a distance of thirty-four miles,
ference at three feet from the earth. Taormina, about two miles from
Near this Tree are others, of an Giardini, and approached by a
extraordinary size : but the soil steep ascent, is beautifully and
being the richest in Sicily, all its strongly situated on the declivity
productions luxuriate. The dis- of wild and lofty rocks, in a salu-
tance from Giarra to the Chesnut- brious air, and crowned with an
trees is about six miles : and al- ancient CastJe. This, now incon-
though the path is steep, and the siderable, Town was once the mag-
footing for mules slippery and dis- nificent City of Taurominium, sup-
agreeable, the peculiar beauty of posed to have been so called from
Ch. XL] SIClLY—TAtJROMlNltJM. Sdl
the stxl^l river TaUrominius, which to Messina, are two ancient qua-
flows near it. The Z andean s, and drilaieral Tombs* But the most
Hybleans, in the age of the elder precious monument of antiquity
Dionysius, built this City, amidst now left in Taurominium is it»
hills, at that period celebrated for Theatre. A peculiar hoUow, in the
the grapes they produced, and the upper part of a rock, was chosen
prospects they exhibited ^ : and, at for the site of this Edifice ; which
the present moment, the red wine stands above the modem Town, in
of Taormina is excellent. Here a lovely situation, commanding a
are interesting monuments of anti- view of the Streights of Messma^
quity. The Naumachia, four hun- Giarra, Aci, uStna, and the whole
dred and twenty-five palmi long, country near Taormina, which is
and one hundred and ninety-six highly cultivated, and richly clothed
broad, is a parallelogram, contain- with olive and mulberry-trees. The
ing, on one side, thirty- seven shape of the Theatre is semi-cir-
Niches, alternately large and small, cular, the order of architecture Co-
Channels of masonry to conduct rinthian. The Scena (of masonry,
water into the Edifice are likewise and nearly perfect) had three En-
discoverable; and the whole struc- trances from the Postscenium ; the
ture appears to be Roman, some centre door being large, the others
of the Bricks having Roman cha- small. Between the large door,
racters stamped upon them. Above and each of the small ones, were
the Naumachia are remains oiflve three Niches ; and beyond each of
Pisctnee; similar in form, but not the small doors was a Niche. The
in size: they were lined with the Proscenium is only five palmi in
Ck)us Signinum ; and the smallest breadth ; but might, nevertheless,
of the five is in the best preserva- have been large enough to contain
tion. A row of eight PiUars di- the Chorus : the Orchestra, like-
vides it into two Aisles, one hun- wise, is narrow in proportion to
dred and twenty-eight palmi long, the rest of the Edifice. Under the
forty-eight wide, and thirty high ; Proscenium and Scena is a subter-
and the apertures for the entrance ranean Passage, or Gallery, in part
of the water are visible. The open to the Theatre. The use of
Church of S. Pancrazio is evi- tliis Gallery is not known ; but
dently the Cella of an ancient Gre- some antiquaries suppose it was
cian Temple, of which the Walls for the Prompter ; and that he read
are still preserved : they consist of the parts, while the Actors merely
large blocks of white marble, joined supplied gesticulation. The Scenic
together without cement ; and are Masks, however, comprising a kind
supposed to have been taken firom of speaking trumpet, and univer-
the famous marble Quarry in this sally worn by all the ancient Act-
neighbourhood. Contiguous to the ors. Mutes excepted, prove this
Church are ruins of an Aqueduct, last conjecture groundless ; al-
and likewise remains of a Wall though the Prompter's station,
cased with white marble, and pro- notwithstanding, might have been
bably the ruins of aTemple erected here. Under the Theatre are an
to Apollo, by the inhabitants of Aqueduct, and a Reservoir for
Naxos, when they found an Asvlum water * : and on each flank of the
in Taurominium. The site of this Scena are square Structures, pro-
Structure seems to have been im- bably Dressing-rooms for the Act-
mense. In the Valley, which leads ors, and Withdrawing-rooms for
(y) See Diodobtts Siculus, 16. Theatre; a needful precaution, there being no
(z) The aqueduct was probably conatnicted roof,
to conyey away the water which fell in the
400 SICILY— MESSINA. [Ch. XL
the audience, in case of bad wea- times the Mamertini (mercenaiy
ther. None of the Seats remain, soldiers) took possession of Mes-
The Walls appear to have been sana, subsequent to which, it fell
covered with white marble, frag- into the hands of the Romans ; and
ments of which are visible : and was, for a considerable period,
in consequence of an excavation their chief hold in Sicily. The
made during the years 1748 and modem Messenians aided Count
1749, a consideraole number of Roger in delivering their country
Columns of Granite, CipoUino, from the Saracenic yoke ; and were
Porta-Santa, and Saravenza Mar- recompensed with great privileges,
ble, were found here*: a va- some of which they still retain,
riety of other architectural orna- But the misfortunes of Messina,
ments have been discovered, suffi- in modem times, have been great,
cient to evince the magnificence of The Plague, in 1743, swept away
this Theatre ; and such is its per- full fifty thousand of its citizens :
fection, with regard to the convey- and the earthquake of 1 783 nearly
ance of sound, that words uttered destroyed its magnificent Quay,
in the lowest tone of voice, on or and most of its superb edifices,
near the Scena, are heard distinctly. The splendid crescent of houses,
even in the Corridor which termi- fronting the Marina, was reduced
nates the Edifice. Hence to the to piles of ruins; and the narrow
sea coast the descent is very rapid : streets were universally blocked up
and after passing a hedge of ole- by fallen buildings ; though some
anders in front of some cottages, of the public structures, owing to
and a Fortification, called Fort their solidity, remained standing;
Alessio, and constructed by the and among these was the Cathe-
English, Travellers usually rest dral : but the almost total destruc-
themselves and their mules for two tion of private dwellings compelled
or three hours at a place fourteen the inhabitants to encamp in huts
miles from Giardini, and then pro- of wood. The dreadful effects of
ceed, through a beautiful country, this earthquake were not occasion-
to Messina ; where The Britannia ed by one shock only, but by seve-
is a very clean and comfortable ral, which succeeded each other
Hotel. from the fifth to the seventh of
Messina, called by the Siculi February. The first was the most
Zancle (a Sickle), from its Beach, violent : providentially, however,
formed like a crescent, was found- an interval of a few minutes, be-
ed, according to tradition, sixteen tween the first and second, enabled
hundred years before tlie Christian the inhabitants to escape from their
era: and some of the classic wri- tottering houses, and take refuge
ters report that Anaxilaus, So- in the country. At the entrance
vereign of Rhegium, made war of the Streights of Messina, on the
against the Zancleans, with the Calabrian side, a violent shock of
assistance of the Messenians of this earthquake being felt about
Peloponnesus ; and, after proving noon, the people of the neighbour-
decisively victorious, called the hood fled to tne sea shore ; where
conquered city Messana, in com- they remained in safety tUl eight
pliment to his allies. This event o'clock at night; when, owing to
IS supposed to have taken place another shock, the sea swelled im-
about four hundred years previous mensely, and suddenly precipitated
to the Christian era. In after- its waves on the beach, ingulphing
(a) The marbles iadigenoas to Tanromininin preferred as decorations for the public edifices
were celebrated for tlieir beauty ; but, never- of this Town,
tbeless, foreign marbles seem to bare been
Ch. XTJ SICILY— MESSINA* 401
upwardof a thousand persons: and called Chary bdis; but no longer
the same tremendous swell sunk dangerous*'. Scyllay on the oppo-
the vessels in the Port of Messina, site coast, and about three miles
and destroyed the Mole. The dogs distant, has the appearance of a
in Calabria appeared to anticipate gigantic Rock, separated, by some
this awfiil convulsion of nature, by accidental circumstance, from the
howling piteously: the sea-fowl main land*. The Promenade on
flew to the mountains : and a noise, the Marina displays exquisite
like that of carriage- wheels running scenery, and a magnificent Port
round with great velocity over a crowded with shipping : but, from
stone pavement, preceded, the first want of means, the hue of new
shock of the earthquake ; while, at houses in this vicinity have only
the same moment, a dense cloud of their lower stories finished. The
vapour rose fi-om Calabria, gradu- Billiard-room, and Reading-room,
ally extending to the Faro, and the merit notice ; as the situation in
Town of Messina. The loss of pro- which they are placed is beautiful ;
perty here, public and private, was and the scale on which they are
mcalculable : splendid churches, built superb. The Cathedral, a
works of Art, libraries, and records, spacious £difice, contains a Marble
being all involved in the common Pulpit, by Gagini; and a High-altar
ruin : but such was the probity of richly embellished with Florentine
the Messenian Merchants, that no Mosaics, and six Columns of Lapis
one of them declared himself a Lazuh, supporting a representation
bankrupt, in consequence of this of the Madonna, under a gold ca-
severe visitation. nopy. The Plate in the Sacristy
Messina is most beautifully situ- is tne Capo d' Opera of Guevara,
ated in a climate at all sAsons The Church belonging to the Con-
salubrious ; and cooler than any vent of S, Gregorio contains a fine
other part of Sicily during summer. Copy of the celebrated Picture of
The houses are large and commo- that Saint, at Bologna. The Novi-
dious ; the environs abound with ziato de" Gesuiti is deliciously situ-
lovely and shady promenades; the ated; and possesses a few good
necessaries of life are, generally Pictures of the Roman School,
speaking, cheap and abundant ; the The Town, backed by highly culti-
fish is particularly good ; and the vated and thickly wooded moun-
people are Uvely, mteUigent, pene- tains, looks to peculiar advantage
trating, and courteous ; especially from the Ramparts near the Cita-
to the British Nation. Travellers, del ; which, on this side, is strongly
on arriving at Messina, usually fortified. Silks ; knitted silk stock-
visit the Faro ; to which there is a ings ; light cloth ; and carpets simi-
Carriage-road made by the British lar to those of Turkey, are fabri-
Troops, when stationed here : and cated at Messina. The Walk to
this drive occupies something more the Telegraph, and .that to Tina-
than an hour. On walking to the mara, are famed for commanding
Light-hoiise, it is not difficult to fine views®. The Roads, or, more
discern the Current now reported accurately speaking, the mule-
to run in and out of the Streights, tracks round Messina, generally lie
alternately every six hours : and in the beds of torrents ; after hard
this Current at less than a mile rain extremely dangerous ; though
firom the shore, occasions iSrea^er*, several houses are scattered on
(c) It is, nevertheless, affirmed, that a (d) This Rock is not completely, though
Transport, not many years since, was -whirled nearly separated from the Calabrian shore,
round, three times, by the eddy at Charybdis ; (0 '^ ^^ s^i<^ ^^^ ^ ruinoxis Tower^ below
and that the Carrents in the Streights are still the Castellacio, which commands Messina,
remarkably strong and irregular. was erected by Richard I, of England*
2 D
4Q2 SICILY— MELAZZO—RHEGGIO, ^. [Ch. XI.
their banks: the bridle-road to ^Speronaro^ at Messina, visiting
Melazzo is, however, good ; and the Lipari Islands, and going thence
the Town worth visiting, as the toCefalii; insteadof going by land
descent thither displays bold scene- to the latter Place : for although
ry ; and the Place is supposed to the mule-track as already men-
have been the ancient Myte, where tioned is good as far as Melaazo, it
Ulysses's Companions slew the is bad and mountainous thence to
Oxen of the Sun^: and between Cefali^. This little voyage, gene-
Melazzo and Lipari was the battle rally speaking, occupies about three
fought by Octavius Caesar and days : and the following account is
Marcus Agrippa, against Sextus an extract from the journal of an
Pompey, which put an end to the EngUsh Gentleman and his Wife,
power of that piratical Commander ; who went from Messina to Cefalil^,
who fled, by night, to Melazzo, and by sea, during Midsummer, 1826^.
thence took remge with Mark An- '* We set out at seven in the
thony. Melazzo is enriched by a morning, in our Speronaro, with
Thunny Fishery, from the middle ten boatmen and two boys. The
of Apnl to the end of June ; and rowers stand upon the deck. There
from the beginning of August till was a fixed awning, under which
September. we sat, and slept ; having hired
An excmsion^ by wcUeVy is fre- mattresses at Messina. After pass-
quently made from Messina, to ing the Faro we found the wind
visit ScyUa, and land at Rheggio, unfavourable ; and, taking in our
about four leagues distant, and sails, rowed to Acqua-Nero, land-
whither it is sometimes necessary ing there, at one o'clock. At a
to be towed up by oxen, on account quarter past five the wind dropped,
of the stren^h of the Current, the i^a was calm ; and we resumed
Rheggio, anciently Rhegium, dis- our voyage. A fair breeze during
plays melancholy traces of the the night brought us near Strom-
earthquake of 1783. One hand- ^/», nmere, witn occasional rowing,
some street, in which stands the we arrived at nine in the morning.
Cathedral, is, however, capable of By the aid of a letter of recom-
being restored without great ex- mendation to a Priest, called Don
pense. The C(Uhedrai deserves Giuseppe, we procured a room to
notice: the University contains dine in: and feasted on exquisite
curious imitations of Plants : the figs. At half-past two we set out
Manufactory of Ber^amotte Oil is for the mmmtt of the Mountain ;
worth seeing ; and m this Town finding the ascent rapid, and the
Travellers are shewn a house, called heat excessive. The depth of the
the birth-place of Ariosto; al- sand, and the steepness of the
though R^gio in Italy {Rhegium path, render this ascent more toU-
LepQi) is generally supposed to be some than those of ^tna and Ve-
the spot where that great Poet was suvius : it occupied near three
bom. The Country about Rheg- hours. From the summit we saw
gio merits observation. the Crater about half way down ;
Travellers, in order to complete and the si^t was grand and
their Tour round the sea coast of imposing. The Eruptions were
Sicily, usually prefer embarking in onty occasional ; and resounded
(/) Homer tells us the Herds consecrated (a) A Hpfronara is a very safe kind of boat,
to Apollo were kept ** on Sol's bright Isle," witn from six to ten oars, according to its sixe,
Trinacria. See OdyMtey^ Book XII. and a helmsman.
These Herds were labouring oxen, employed (A) The hire of a Sferonwro^ large enoogh
in tillage : and it was esteemed, bj the An- to convey from four to six passengers, is about
eients, a particular profanation to destroy a fiflMa ounces, forty-five Neapolitan ducats,
labouring ox, and cximinnl to ent of it.
Ch. XL] SICILY--LIPARI ISLANDS— CEPALU, ^. 403
like cannon, shaking the ground, and two years previous to the
At eight in the evening we re-em- Christian era ; and was conse-
barked, and rowed under the crated, by the Greeks, to Vulcan '.
Island, till we came in sight of its We landed at five ; and in a quar-
beautiftd little Volcano. Two ter of an hour reached the base
small Mouths threw up fire inces- of the Crater ; to the summit of
santly; that on the south being which the ascent is gradual, the
the most active ; and, at intervals, path good, and the time occupied
its force increased ; while a north- m ascending about forty minutes,
em Mouth, between every sixth We went down by an easy descent
and tenth minute, threw up large into the Crater ; which is deep,
quantities of stones ; but they were grand, and exceedingly splendid
elected with less violence than those witih respect to the colours of its
thrown from the opposite side, crystal sulphurs ; large numbers
The finest Eruption we saw startled of which are continually collected,
ns ; for it began with a sound like On retracing our steps, we reached
the discharge of artillery ; which the summit at ten minutes past
was followed by a shower of stones seven ; and embarked in our Spe-
so vivid that the whole side of the ronaro at eight. Having cleared
Mountain glowed with these bound- Vulcano, we steered for CefalCi :
ing red-hot balls. Some of the but the appearance of a strange
largest broke to pieces as they re- sail made us cautious, as we had
bounded against others ; but, be- been told of pirates : and soon
fore they reached the sea, their after passing Capo d' Orlando, we
heat was nearly gone. These coasted along to Cefalii; arriv-
Eruptions, reflected in the water, ing there about midnight. Next
were magnificent. Leaving this morning we got pratique, settled
extraordinary scene, we steered with our Captain, gave nis Men a
with a fair wind for Lipari ; and buonamano, and did not regret
about half- past seven in the morn- having made this little voyage, by
ing were close to its remarkable which we were much interested.
Hill of white Pumice; which is though considerably fatigued. The
exported in large quantities, and a situation of Cefalu is beautiful :
source of wesSth to the Island, and, whtfe our mules were prepar-
We cast anchor close to the Laz- ing, we visited its CathedrcU, which
zaretto at ten o'clock; and re- contains ancient Mosaics at the
mained on board till one, waiting end of the Edifice, and ancient
for our passports; because the Columns, and Capitals, in the Nave
Authoritieswere not quickly found, and Choir. The two Pillars be-
lt being a Festa. At one, how- tween the Nave and Transept dis-
ever, the British Consul, hearing play Figures of Men supporting
of our arrival, invited us to his the Abacus. Cefali!l is the ancient
house, and received us most hos- Cephaloedis, After a short deten-
pitably. Lipari contains i7o#J5a^A*, tion at the Custom-house here, we
about four miles firom the Port, in mounted our mules about a quarter
a rocky narrow valley. We slept before nine, in order to proceed to
on this Island ; and embarking Termini ; a distance of twenty-
next morning at a quarter before four miles, through a lovely road,
four, reached the Bay of Vulcano^ especially the first part, which lay
at a quarter before five. The Bay between coppices oi aloes and myr-
exhibits wild rocks : the Island ties, the latter in full blossom. At
rose out of the sea two hundred two o'clock we reached Termini ;
(0 All the Lipari Itlmds w«re denominated rWccMt Jmnia*
2d 2
404 CHARACTER OP THE SICILIANS, ^e. [CK XL
and found its Hotel tolerable, valli, are likewise very handsome :
This Town was anciently called their costume throughout the
ThermiB Himerenses, on account Island is Grecian : but, in all the
of its hot Baths : it still contains Towns, females wear black silk
Warm Salt Baths ; and remains of cloaks, which cover the head and
an ancientEdiiice, supposed to have face, according to the Spanish
been a Theatre, may be traced in mode. A black leather cloak and
the Senate House, and Prison, hood, covering the whole person.
After sleeping at Termini, whence is universally worn, in winter, by
there is a good Carriage-road, in the male sex, when out of doors,
distance twenty-four miles, to Pa- The manners, customs, and domes-
lermo, we set out fbr that City at tic ceconomy, of the Sicilian pea-
half-past eight, and reached Page's sants, are said to be, at this day.
Hotel at a quarter past twelve, what Theocritus represents them,
driving the whole way between The oxen throughout the Island
gardens with fences of magnificent are handsome animals of a dun
aloes bursting into flower." colour, and remarkable for parti*
The Sicilians, taken collectively, cularly fine horns, both witn re-
are good humoured, (though prone spect to length and thickness : and
to momentary wrath, and addicted the nightingales seem to be as
to jealousy,) acute, animated, elo- plentiful as tne flowers, making the
quent, and endued with consider- air resound with their harmony,
able talents ; especially for poetry ; The vegetable productions of Sicily
but owing to that fickleness of are more various, and more abun-
disposition common to the descend- dant, than of almost any other
ants of the ancient Greeks, seldom countr}^: and besides those men-
E re-eminent in arts and sciences, tioned in the foregoing pages, and
rom want of perseverance. They several which, owing to the nar-
are proud of what their countiy row limits of this Work, must be
once was ; and bv no means defi- passed over in silence, is a Tree
dentin that chivalrous spirit which resembling the ash, which yields
might, if encouraged, render them Medicinal Manna. An incision is
again a powerful People. For made in the bark of this tree, near
hospitality to Strangers they were the root, at the commencement of
always famed; and, respecting August; and from this incision
this virtue, the present race have issues the juice which, when dried
not degenerated from their ances- by the sun, becomes manna. The
tors ; as the poorest SiciUan pea- bread throughout the Island, ex-
sant will offer the best of every cept at Giardini and Taormina, is
thing his cottage affords, to the excellent, and especially so at Gir-
travellerwho pauses at his door, genti: the Hybla honey has long
The populace are civilized, sober, been celebrated. Near Mazzara.
and honest ; easily governed by and in some other places, the fe-
gentle means, though indignant males spin cotton ; and large quan-
when treated with harshness'. All tities of hemp are grown in several
ranks seem partial to theBritishN a- districts. There is likewise a va-
tion. On the northern and eastern riety of fine fish on every part of
coast of SicUy the natives, of both the Sicilian coast; and the 'Diunny,
sexes, are handsome ; their coun- and Pesce Spada, are particularly
tenances being perfectly Grecian : esteemed.
and the female peasants on Mount The climate of Sicily is excellent
Eryx, at Syracuse, about Catania, during Winter, and the six fiiTst
on iEtna, at Giarra, and on the weeks of Spring : but in Summer,
road to the Castagno di cento Ca- Autumn, and even till the middle
Ch. XL] SICILY— MANNER OP TRAVELLING, ^. 405r
of November, A/bT ana prevails in muleteer mounted, and riding at
several spots of the Island ; espe- the head of the Cavalcade. A
cially at Selinuntium, at, and near, Lettiga is not usually furnished
Lentini; and likewise at, and near, with cushions to sit upon; but
Syracuse. Even during winter Si- has a dirty lining, and a gaudy
cilian scenery, so far as relates to outside : it goes up and dowa
colours, is gay and brilliant ; the every hill, however steep, and
sky, in general, being cloudless, makes the neighbourhood resound
and the sunrise and sunset magni- with mule-bells ; which are hung,
ficent beyond description : during in a triangular shape, on the back
summer the brilliancy and beauty of the le&ing mule. The motion
of the scenery is, of course, aug- of a Lettiga is fatiguing, and apt
mented ; and the months of June to produce drowsiness : and, more-
and July are those most proper over, the country cannot be seen
for an ascent to the Crater of to advantage in these Vehicles:
-ffitna. SicUy, however, is not, at neither can Travellers, thus con-
any season, like several parts of veyed, stop when they wish it;
Magna Grsecia, uniformly beauti- as the mule-bells prevent the
ful : for although some tracts are muleteers from hearing, when
luxuriant to excess, and cultivated called to ; and besides this, a chair
to. perfection, others are dreary, is indispensable for getting out of,
wild, and neglected : but if the or into, a Lettiga. The noise of
plan of making a good post- the mule-bells may likewise prove
road, to form an inland communi- an inconvenience, from impeding
cation between Palermo and Mes- conversation. Travellers, who ride,
sina, should be carried into effect, usually furnish themselves with
it may probably prove the means one mule for each gentleman, or
of inducing Sicilian noblemen to Lady; ditto, for each Servant;
work the waste lands, and thereby ditto, for the Guide, who also acts
complete the beauty, and increase as Cook and Purveyor ; and ditto,
ihe wealth, of their country. for luggage.
Sicily does not, at present, con- The difference between Sicilian
tain above one million and a half and Neapolitan money is as fol-
of inhabitants. lows : —
No regular post-roads having ^^ ^ ^^ ^ Tari of Sicily.
yet been established. Travellers 5 ditto - - - .1 Cariino.
(Pedestrians excepted) are under 1 ditto - - - - 1 Baioccho.
>, 'J. If ' J' 1 ^ i ditto - - - - 1 Grano.
the necessity of going from place •
to place throughout the Island, The price of a Lettiga carried
either in a Lettiga, or on mules. A by three mules is about thirty car-
licttiga, the national carriage, holds lini per day, while travelling ; and
two persons ; and is, in shape, about fifteen carlini for every day
something like the body of a vis- of rest. Mules for persons who
i-vis. Tiiis Vehicle, provided with ride may be engaged at Palermo,
strong poles, resembling those of and throughout the Island, for ten
a Sedan-chair, is carried by very tari each mule, on travelling days,
powerful porter-mules, as the body and five on resting days; unless it,
of a travelling carriage was, in be during harvest, when the price
past times, conveyed over the on resting days is six tari. The
Mont-Cenis. Two mules go be- muleteers expect a trifling buona^
fore, and one behind, accompanied mano at the end of the journey.
by a muleteer on foot, armed with At Catania the hire of mules is
a stick, ten or twelve feet long, to somewhat cheaper than at Paler-
guide the mules; and another mo. An English Gentleman, not
406
SICILY— ROUTE ROUND THE ISLAND. [Ch. XI.
long ago, paid per day for the flint glass, or Bohemian crystal ;
same mule, from CatMiia to Pa- Sugar, Tea, CoiFee, Maccaroni,
krmo, eight carlini on travelling Parmesan Cheese, Hams, Poultry,
days, and four on resting days : and potted Butter ; as butter can-
and other Travellers have lately not be procured in Sicily, except
engaged mules from Catania to at Palermo and Messina. Large
Psdermo at the rate of nine carlini double Silk Parasols, and Straw
for every travelling day, and five Hats and Bonnets, double-lined
on resting days. For every mule with thick post-paper, are needful
from Nicolosi to iStna, the price securities, at all seasons, against
is fifteen tari ; and for every Guide a coup de soleil : and some Tra-
from Nicolosi to the summit of vellers, who do not regard the ex-
iEtna, including his mule, and pense of an extra-mule, take Mat-
charcoal for the Casa degU In- tresses; though they are seldom
glesi, the price is two piastres and required, except on ascending
a half. At Catania, Messina, Sy- ^tna ; the mattresses at Hotels
racuse, and Page's Hotel in Paler- being, in general, good,
mo, beds are six tari each person ; At Palermo the best Guides for
and dinners eight : but it is neces- Travellers who purpose making
sary for Travellers, especially at the Tour of the Island, are Camel"
Syracuse, to make then: bargain lo Catalani, and Francesco Mar*
beforehand. In smaller towns salona,
beds for masters are four tari each. Letters of recommendation to
beds for servants two tari each ; all the Civil Authorities, from the
and the Guide, belonging to the Luogotenente at Palermo, are de-
Travellers, provides the table, sirable; and letters of recommend-
This Guide who, as already men- ation, from the British Consul
tioned, acts as Cook, and JPur- General to all the Vice-Consuls,
veyor, and who is an indispensable are, for British Travellers in Sicily,
appendag^e to every party of Tra- most useful K Passports, on leav-
vefiers in Sicily, expects, for ing Naples to visit this Island, on
wages, one piastre a day, and a leaving Palermo to make a Tour
mme provided at the expense of round the sea coast to Catania
his employers ^, On this mule, and Messina, and on leaving Mes-
however, ne does not object to ~' — ^- ---^^ t»i___ _•_ _ ., ^ •
take a block-tin tea-kettle and the
stew-pans, &c. requisite for cook-
ing. Besides these articles Travel-
lers shoiUd furnish themselves with
Leather Sheets, Linen Sheets,
Table - Linen, Towels, Knives,
Forks, Spoons, a Lantern, and
Tinder-box, common strong Cups
and Saucers, the former without
handles ; a block-tin Tea-pot ; a
Coffee-pot; Rummers of double
(k) Two MaAters and one Servant travel-
ling on mules, with one laffgage-mole, a Pur-
yejot, and his mole, usualTf spend, in Sicily,
about two pounds sterling a daj in road ex-
penses, the wages of the Purveyor inclusive.
(0 Travellers experience great civility
from Messrs. Donandy and Campo, who fre-
quently furnish them with intiodnetory
lettexs.
sina to visit Rheggio, or the Lipari
Isles, are, at present, indispensable*
ROUTE ROUND THE SBA COAST OF
SICILY^ ON mules; between
THE LATTER PART OP MAY AND
THE EARLY PART OF JULY,
1826".
1st day. From Palermo to Sola
di Partinico •!-, miles 1 9. Hours
employed in riding, 5|.
(m) Dining places, in the following Route,
are marked with a Cross j~ sleeping places
with an asterisk. Persons who make the
Tour of Sicily during fine weather find it plea-
santer, and more ceconomical, to dine out of
doors, in a shady situation, near a spring, or
stream, of good water, than in a country
Hotel.
Ch. XL] SICILY--ROUTB ROUND THE ISLAND.
40r
From Partinieo to Ahamo^f
miles 12. Horn's employed in
riding, 3}.
Objects best worth notice; Mor-
reale — its Cathedral — Pictm-e,
by Morrealese, in the Benedic-
tine Convent— View of the Val-
ley.
2d day. Tenwle of Segesta •{*
miles 9. Hours Employed in
riding, 3. — Trepani* miles 21.
Hours employed in riding, 6i.
Objects best worth notice;
Temple of Segesta— ^Theatre.
3d day. A Vineyard J^t, Hours
employed in nding, 4 — Mar-
sala*, miles 18, from Trepani.
Hours employed in riding, 2^.
Object best worth notice ; Monte
S. Giuliano, the ancient £ryx.
4th day. Mazzara, miles 12 —
Hours employed in riding, 2} —
Stone Quarry J^ near Campo-
Bello, miles 8 — ^Hours employed
in riding, 2 — Castel-Vetrano *,
miles 8 — ^Hoturs employed in
riding, 2.
Object best worth notice ; the
Stone Quarry.
5th day. Selinuntium vfi, miles 9.
Hours employed in riding, 2^ —
Sciacca *, miles 21 — Hours em-
ployed in riding,. 4}.
Objects best worth notice ; two
Sets of Temples ; three in each,
at Selinuntium. Hot Springs,
at Sciacca.
6th day. San Patro, on the banks
of the Platanus ^, miles 1 9 —
Hours employed in riding, about
4} — Siculiana*, miles 1 1 . Hours
employed in riding, about 2$.
7th day. Girobnti +, miles 1 2 — ►
Hours employed in riding, 3|.
Objects best worth notice; the
Mole — ^the Temples, and other
Antiq[uities — ^the Cathedral, its
Baptismal Font, and Echo.
8th day. Occupied in seeing the
remains of Agrigentum.
9th day. Palina»{*, miles 16. Hours
employed in riding, SJ — Licata *,
(commonly caUed Alicata) mileg
12. Hours employed in riding, 3i«
lOthday^ Half a d«f of redt
Terranova^t miles 18. Hours
employed in riding, 5.
nth day. A Bam 4«, miles 17 —*
Hours employed in ridii^, 4}.
Cultagirone*, miles 7. Hours
employed in riding, 2}.
Object best worth notice; a
celebrated Manufacture of small
Clay Figures, at Cultagirone.
12th day. A Brook »fi, beyond Pa-
lagonia, miles 17 — ^Hours em-
ployed in riding, rather more
than 5|.
Lentini *, miles 1 3. Hours em-
ployed in riding, 3}.
Object best worth notice, the
Biviere di Lentini : an extensive,
but yery unwholesome Lake,
well stored with fish.
13th day. Walnut-trees ^Itt miles
17. Hours employed in riding,
6i. — SiRAousA*, miles 13 —
Hours employed in riding, 3).
Objects best worth notice at
Syracuse ; Amphitheatre — Thea-
tre — ^Ear of Uionysius — ^Tomb
csdled that of Archimedes — Stra-
da Sepulcrale — Catacombs —
Remains of Fort Labdalus —
Subterranean Passage for Ca-
valry, 8cc. — Garden of the P. P.
Cappuccini — River Anapus —
Temple of Jupiter Olympicus—
Papyri — Fonte - Ciane — Duo-
mo — Statue of Venus, in the
Museum.
14th, 15th, and 16th day, at Syra«
cuse.
1 7th day. Scaro dAgnuni »{4, miles
24 — Hours employed in riding,
6^. Catania*, miles 18^-
Hours employed in riding, 4|.
Objects best worth notice ; on
leaving Syracuse, Scala Grseca
— Trophy erected in honour of
MarceUus. At Catania; Thea-
tre — Amphitheatre — Baths —
and other Subterranean Anti-
quities — ^Duomo — Church of the
Benedictines, their Garden and
Museum — Prince Biscari^s Mu-
seum.
1 8th|l 9th, and 20th day, at Catania.
dOS SICILY— ROUTE ROUND THE ISLAND, ^. [Ch.XI.
21st and 2td day. Eipedition to
JEtna., now ctUled Mongibello.
23d dav, at Catania.
a4th day. Trixza>{; miles 7.
Hours employed in riding, about
2. Giarra*, miles 17 — Hours
employed in riding, 3^.
Object best worth notice ; Sco-
puti Cyclopam, at Trizza, As
the ride flrom Catania to Giarra
a day, Travel-
iploy the other
e Castagno di
ated about six
- a'I",mile3 18.
■"Hours entployed in riding, about
5. XHiirdtni ■, miles 10. Hours
employed in riding, about 3 .
26thuay. Dining Place, miles 14.
Hours employed in riding, and
visiting the Ruins of Tauromi'
nium, 2 miles beyond Giardini,
Si. Mbssina *, mdes 20. Hours
employed in riding, about 5.
Objects best worth notice;
Church of S. Pancrazio — an-
cient Piacinte — Naumachia—
Theatre, and View from it, at
Taonnina. At Catania ; Con-
vent of S. Gregorio — Cathedral
— Citadel — Faro — surrounding
Country.
27th, and three following days,
Messina.
28lh day, by Sea— From Messina
to Acqua Nero, hours 6.
29th day, at nine in the morning
Stromboli. To examine the
Crater here occupies the better
part of a day.
30th day, at ten in the morning,
Lipari. To examine this Island
occupies the betlerpartof a day;
and Travellers usually sleep here.
Slat day, at five in the morning,
ViUcatto. The walk to and from
the Crater here, occupies hours
24. And if the wind be toler-
ably fair, Crfalii is reachwl be-
fore midnight.
to Ukt Ihiig from Pulenno lo M(Min», am.
■llj tmjf\aj ihtM uimali lo conTej' them u
32d day, on mules, from CMiIti to
Termini^, miles 24. Hours
employed in riding, 51. Pa-
lermo, miles 24 — m a four-
wheel carriage, hours 3{.
Nicolosi, miles 12 — hom« employ-
ed in riding, 2}.
Ccua della Neve (winter sleeping
place), miles 7 — hours employed
in riding, 1 j.
Qfua degli Ingleti, (suimner sleep-
ing -place,) miles 8— hours em-
ployed in riding, 21.
JVaik to the summit of the Cone—
hours ] J.
Descent to the Torre dd FHotofo, •
VtU del Bue, JVteoJon, and Ca-
tania, from 10 to 12 hours.
The intense cold on the summit
of ^tna is so apt to affect the
health, that Travellers are often
compdled to stop an hour, or
more, ather at the Casa degli
Inglesi, or the Casa della Neve,
to recover themselves. Aparfy,
who ascended on the 29th of
May, found Fahrenheit's ther-
mometer, at half-past seven in
the evening, 501 — at eleven, 45 —
at half-past twelve, 411 — at two
in the morning, 30 — at thirh"-
five minutes past two, near the
Casa degli Inglesi, 27* — at a
quarter before four, at the Casa
degli Inglesi, 20, and on the
summit of the Mountain, at
five o'clock, 191.
To shorten the time spent in the
cold Hegions of ^tna, and hke-
wise to avoid the trouble. and ex-
pense of carrying mattresses and
coverlids thither. Travellers, capa-
ble of bearing long- con tinned ex-
ercise, should set out from Cata-
nia fliiout noon — proceed to Nico-
losi — repose there — then sup —
leave Nicolosi seven hours before
Or II Nimlni, on Ueii Mont to the Cntin
Ch. XII.] RETURN TO ENGLAND. 409
(Sunrise — ^proceed to the Casa della be assuming a merit to which she
Neve — ^remain there one quarter has little claim, did she not most
of an hour only, to put on warm thankfully acknowledge how much
clothing — ^thence ride to the Casa the foregoing account of Sicily
degli Inglesi — ^remain there half has been improved by the minute,
an hour only, to procure hot soup, accurate, and valuable Observa-
and warm wine and water — and tions, in manuscript, of E. I.
thence walk to the summit of the Rudge, Esq. ; and the Notes of
Mountain. The ascent, thus ma- other intelligent British Ti-avel-
naged, occupies six hours and lers, who have recently visited the
three quarters. . Island,
The Author feels that it would
1
Chapter XIT.
RETURN TO ENGLAND, THROUGH GERMANY.
Journey from Rome throug^h Perugia to Florence— Objects best worth notice on that road—
HannibaFs route into Italy — Journey from Florence to Dresden — Ferrara—Rovi|fo— Padua
—Baths of Abano — Arqua — Venice — Objects most worthy of notice — Basilica of S. Marco —
Campanile-^Palazzo £x-Ducale — ^Accademia deUe Belle Arti — Chiese de* Gesuiti — dei Car-
militani — del Carmine— di S. S. Giovanni e Paolo — di S. Giorgio Maggiore-~del Redentore
— 4i S. Maria della Salute — Palazsi Pisani-Moreta — Grimani — Barberigo — Scuola di S.
Rocco — ^Palazzo-Manfrini — ^Arsenal — Promenades — ^Theatres — Hotels — Water-Conegliano^
Pordenon — ^Tagliaroento — S. Tommaso — Ponteba — Custom-house there — ^Villach — Beds and
Provisions in Germany — ^Table-linen — Peasantry — Country Towns, ifc. — Klagenfurt — Frie-
sach— Judenburg — Leoben — Merzhofen — Schottwien — Traskirken — Vienna — Custom-house
Hotels — ^Eating-houses — Coffee-houses — Lodging-houses — Population — Climate —Water-
Fountains, l^c. — Cathedral, and other Churches — Imperial Residence — Jewel Office — Cabi'
net of Natural History — Public Library — Belv^ddre Gallery of Paintings — ^Belv^ire an-
cient Armoury— Lichtenstein, and other private Galleries — Great Arsenal — Hotel des Inva-
lides — Porcelain Manufacture — Theatres— Faubourgs ; Church of S. Charles — Summer
Palaces of Princes Schwarzenberg and Lichtenstein — Prater— Aug^rten — Schoenbronn— >
National Dish — Austrian Wines — Distance from Florence to Vienna — Baden — Stockerau—
Znaim — Schelletau— Iglau — Stecken — Czaslau — Planian — Prague — Population — Objects
best worth notice — Inns — New Post-road from Prague to Dresden — Inns — Saxon Peasants
—Dresden — C ustom-house — ^Distance from Vienna — Population — Architecture — Religion—
Objects best worth a Traveller's attention— Mode of obtaining admittance to the Picture
Gallery, &c. — List of some of the most striking Pictures — Treasury — Cabinet of antique
Sculpture — Dresden Porcelain — ^Theatres — ^Distance from Dresden to Berlin— Voyage dowm
the Elbe to Hambui^h— Population of Hamburgh — Description of the Town and Por&—
Inns — Private Lodgings — Sagacity of a Stork— Steam-Packet from Hamburgh to London —
Voyage from Hamburgh to Cuxhaven — Harwich Packets — Prices — ^Days on which these
Vessels sail — Inns at Cuxhaven — Best road from Dresden to Berlin — Potsdam — Description
of Berlin — Distance thence to Hamburgh.
Persons who wish to see the Cas- The first Town which attracts
cade of Temi, and the celebrated notice is Civita'Castellana, in
Lake of Thrasymenus, should go point of situation, particularly
from Rome through Perugia to strong and beautiful; and sup-
Florence. The following is a brief posed, by some writers, to be the
account of the objects most worthy ancient Km; though more pro-
of attention on this road. bably the ancient Fe^cennium*
416 NARNI-CASOADE OF TERNI. [Cb. XIL
Namii the next considerable tuatedi Comebus Tacitus, and
Town, was formerly called Nequi- the Emperors Tacitus and Floria-
num, from the obstinacy of its nus, were bom in this City, which
citizens ; who, during a sie^, killed contains the ruins of an Amphi-
their wives and children, m order theatre in the Episcopal Garden*
to save their provisions ; and, when and those of a Temple of the Sun,
all these were consumed, chose in the Church of S. Salvadore. At
rather to lay violent hands upon S. Siro, in the Cellars of the Col-
themselves than surrender. This lege, are remains of a Temple
place gave birth to the Emperor of Hercules, and, in the Casina of
Nerva. the Casa-Spada, Ruins of ancient
A little beyond N ami, and about Baths*,
a mile out of the road, are remains Four miles from Temi is the
of a magnificent Bridge, supposed magnificent Cascade, called Caduta
to have been thrown, by Angus- delle Marmore, and formed by the
tus, over the river Nera, (anciently fall of the Velino (ancienthr the
the Nar,) for the purpose of unit- Velinus) into the Nera. These
in^ two hills. In order to exa- Cataracts are said to have been
mine this stately ruin. Travellers made about the year of Rome 671,
should get out of their carriage, by Curius Dentatus, who, in order
and walk down the hill, at uie to drain the territory of Rieti of
foot of which is the Bridge. It its standing waters, cut channels,
consists of large stones joined to- through which he chscharged them
gether without any cement, and cut, into the Velino, and thence into
on their outsides, into the form of the Nera, forming by these means
diamonds. On the dry land, next a Cascade, consisting of three
to Nami, is one entire arch, the leaps, the first computed to be
piers of which are above forty three hundred English feet, the
common paces asunder. The piers two others, united, between four
still remaining in the water prove and five hundred. Persons who
the immense size of the other wish to see these Cataracts in
arches ; which were not, however, perfection, should set out from
of an equal diameter. The length Temi about ten o'clock of a clear
of this Bridge is supposed to have morning, and ascend tiie Monte di
been eight hundred and fifty Ro- Marmore in a caleche ; but, on
man palmi ; and a Roman archi- approaching the Vehno, which an-
tectural palmo (as already men- nounces itself at a considerable
tioned) is nearly nine English distance by its thundering noise,
inches. The distance between the they should walk to view the nar-
piers of the first arch is computed row Pass through which it rushes
to be one hundred palmi, and its down the fall of three hundred feet;
height one hundred and fiifty ; the and afterwards proceed to a Tem-
distance between the piers of the pie built on a Promontory, for the
second, one hundred and eighty purpose of exhibiting the three
palmi; that between those of the leaps together. Here they should
third, one hundred and fifty ; and remain till twelve o'clock ; when
the last arch, which ends on the the effect of the sun upon water
other side of the Nera, is one hun- which, from the velocity of its fall,
dred and ninety palmi in breadth, rises into vapours, resembling mil-
Temi derives its ancient name, lions of curled white feathers, is
Interamna, from the two arms of beautiful beyond description ; in-
the Nera, between which it is si- deed, there are very few celestial
(o) Now Tenii stands Rieti, saoieatly Reate, celebrated for its Tale of Tempo.
Ch.XIL] PERUGIA. 411
rainbows half so brilliant as the may visit it with ease. The Church
terrestrial ones at Temi. After of S. Francesco, in tins City, con-
having seen these. Travellers tains several Pictures of the old
should return to the bottom of the School. The Monastery of Fran-
Monte di Marmore; and then cescan Nuns, called the Nuns of
walk to view the Cataract from St. Clare, deserves attention ; and
i3elow. Thi^ Walk occupies near the Church of S'. Maria, or the
two hours ; and lies through Pri- Filipinij once a Temple of Mi-
vate Grounds. nerva, is a beautiful piece of anti-
Spoleti, or Spoleto, (formerly quity.
Spoletum,) is a very ancient City, Perugia, (anciently Augusta
situated on the acclivity of a moun- Perusia,) the Capital of the rich
tain, and watered by the Clitum- and beautiful province of Umbria,
nus, fkmed in days of yore for and once the strongest City of
tiie whiteness of the cattle which Etruria, displays a handsome mo-
f razed near it. The citizens of dem Gate, -(the Porta S. Pietro,)
poleto repulsed Hannibal imme- and contains Antiquities, and
diately after the battle of Thrasy- Paintings of the old School, well
menus ; and they still preserve a worth observation ; but, exclusive
Gate, called Porta-Fuga, with an of this, Travellers should sleep
Inscription in memory of this here, in order to avoid passing a
event. The Cathedral contains night at Torricella. Perugia is
Paintings, Bassi-rilievi, and an- magniiicently situated on the sum-
cient Mosaics. The Aqueduct is mit of a lofty moimtain of the
a beautiful Fabric, supported by Apennine, and seems by nature
stone arches, and, in one part, by almost impregnable : such, indeed,
a Double Arcade, said to be three was the strength of this Cit^, and
hundred feet high. such the valour of its inhabitants,
Between Spoleto and Foligno, that Hannibal did not venture to
and close to the road, is the Temple attack it, even after having^gained
of Clitumnus, now converted into the important battle of Thra^-
a Chapel, and dedicated to S. Sal- menus : and, to this moment, the
vadore. The front toward the Perugians are famed for being the
plain is ornamented with four Co- most daring and ferocious of the
lumns, two Pilasters, and a Pedi- Roman People,
ment : the Edifice is oblong, and Between Torricella and Ca-
exhibits the following Words cut muscia, at five miles' distance from
in stone : ** 2\ Septimius Pie- the former, is the miserable Vil-
6»Wp/* « lage of Passignano, rendered fa-
Fbligno, anciently Fulginas^ mous by the above named victory
stands on the Via-Flaminia ; and gained near this spot by Hannibal,
contains a Cathedral, the Altar 217 years before Christ,
and Frescos in which merit no- Six miles further on, is the
tice. Ponte Sanguinetto, situated below
Between Foligno and Perugia a Village of the same name, and
lies Assist, (ancient^ Assisium, both so called from the effusion
the birth-place of S. Francesco *».) of Roman blood spilt there.
It is situated on a Hill so near to Between Passignano and the
the great road, that Travellers rivulet called Sanguinetto,' the Site
(p) It does not appear certain that the pre- small Town of Bevagna tinqnestionably stands
sent Chapel of S. salvadore was ancientlj upon the Site of the ancient Mevania, which
the Temple of Clitamnns. Pliny places this lies to the west of the river Timia, and at the
Temple near the source of the rirer : and . influx of the Taearena and Rncciano into the
Snetonius says, that Caligula went to Me- Clitumnus.
vania to see the Temple of Clitumnus. The (9) Metastasio also was born at Assisi.
412 HANNIBAL'S ROUTE INTO ITALY. [Ch, XII.
of the Roman Gamp, and the Pass of the twelve great Cities of Etru-
through which Hannibal came ria. In the Cathedral is a large
down from the heights, may be Sarcophagus, supposed to be that
discovered. of the unfortunate Consul, Flamir
Four miles further on is Spi- nius ; and representing the Battle
longa, a small hamlet on the con- of the Lapithse with the Centaiurs.
fines of Tuscany ; and three miles Manjr of the Churches are curious
from Spilonga, stands Ossaia, in point of architecture ; and most
where, on a Ilouse in the Street, is of them have good Pictures, both
the foUowing Inscription : — of the old and new School. Se-
^Namen hahet locui hie Ursija. ah ouibui veral of the Mvate Houses con-
iiiii tain valuable Paintings. The an-
- e«« doiut Annibaiisfwdit (ft hasta simui.** ^ient Etruscan WaJls of this City
'* This place bears the name of are in some places discoverable ;
Ossaia, mm the bones of those they were formed of immense
unfortunate men whom Hannibal blocks of marble, without any ce-
slew here.** ment whatsoever; and, in the
Ossaia is by many writers sup^ Museum of the Academy, and in
Sosed to have been the actual those which belong to the Nobles
eld of battle ; though, perhaps, of Cortona, are other Etruscan
it rather was the hill to which &e Antiquities,
small remains of Flaminius*s troops Arezzo (anciently Aretium) is
retired: because, thuteen miles, remarkable for the extensive view
the reputed distance between Pas- from its Fortress ; and remains of
signano and Ossaia, seems too the ancient Amphitheatre are still
large a space for the contending to be seen. Arezzo gave birth to
armies to have occupied. It is Petrarca.
impossible to view the country be- As the preceding detail of objects
tween Passignano and Ossaia, best worth notice near Perugia,
without feeling the highest admi- has led to the mention of Hanni-
ration of the military skill of bal, it may not, perhaps, be inap-
Hannibal ; who contrived, on an plicable to the subject to subjom
enemy's ground, to draw that ene- an account of what appears to
my into a narrow, swampy, and have been his Route into Italy;
uncommonly foggy plain, where traced from an ancient map, as
no army, however brave, could far as Embrun, upon the river
long have defended itself; for on Durance, inDauphin6; and after-
three sides are heights, which wards founded upon the authority
were possessed by the troops of of Polybius, strengthened by the
Carthage ; and, en the other side, present appearance of the ground,
is a large unfordable Lake. Hannibal set out in the midst
On the Hill above Camuscia, of winter, U. C. 536, with an
and within the distance of a walk, army of fifty thousand foot, and
stands Cortona, (formerly Cory^ nine thousand horse, besides ele-
tus,) said to be the most ancient phants, from
(Ancient Names.) (Modern Names.)
Sepia • Ceuta, in Africa, a sea-port, and crossed to
jPretum Erculeum The Streishts of Gibraltar ; whence he probably
proceeded by sea to
Calpe Tariffa, the Pillar of Hercules in Europe; then
passed through the
Country of the The Kingdom of Granada, in Spain, to
Bastuli
Ch. XII.] HANNIBAL'S ROUTE INTO ITALY. Hi
( A ncient Names.) (Modern Names.)
Malaca Malaga; and thence proceeded through the
Countrif of the The Kingdom of Murcia, to the camp of Spar*
Bastiani tarius, thence going to
Cartago-nova . . . Cartha^ena, and traversing the
Province of Con- The Kingdom of Valentia, to
testanorum
Alone ^ Alicant; at which sea-port it seems probable that
he embarked his troops, and passed up the
river
Sucro Segura, or Xucar, to
Valenday thence proceeding along the river
Iberus Ebroy through the
Country of the The Prindj^ity of Catalonia^ to
niercaones
Tarraco, or Tar- Tarragona^ and
rago
CartagO' Vetuts . . Villa-Franca : he then crossed the
Rubricatus .... The River Llobregat, -proceeded to, and crossed, the
Gerunda The River Gerona, and then came to
Rhoda Rosas : though some authors assert, that he fol*
lowed the course of the Gerona to the Pyrenean
mountains, and crossed thence into Gaul. From
Rosas, however, according to the map, he
went to
Veneris Fanum , Port Vendres, thence to
Caucoliberis, or Collioure, in the Province of t^ie Volcce Teclo*
niiberis sages, or Rossiglione'; thence he proceeded to
Narbo Naroonne, the Country of the Bebricii, and
thence to
Agatha Montpellier and
Nemausics Nismes; when, passing through the country of
the Volc€e Arecomii, he proceeded to the banks
of the
Rhodanus ..... The Rhone, down which river he passed to
Avenio Avignon ; thence traversing
The Country of the Provence, to Dauphin^, the country of the .4 //o*
Cassuares broges ; thence he proceeded to
Augusta Tricas* S.Paul-trois- Chateaux, and then went by the
trinonum river
Druentia Durance, to
Embrodunus . . . Embrun ; whence he marched to, and crossed
Mons 'Vesulus, or Monte ^Viso, one of the great Alps, said to be?
Visus nine thousand nine hundred and ninehr- seven
English feet in height, but not so difficult of
access as are many of those mountains ; it lies:
almost in a direct line with Embrun, and the*
road to it is not strongly guarded by narrow
defiles, as are many passages into Italy. Thence
he went to
Pinarolum .... Pignerol, a city of Upper Dauphin^, about 20*
miles from Turin; thence he followed the^
course of the
(0 Called, by some autborsj Luciniwiu
414 ROUTE FROM FLORENCE TO VIENNA, [Ch. XII.
(Ancient Names.) (Modern Names.)
Padus Po, then went to
Alha-Pompeia . , Albe
Dortona Tortona, and
Ticinum Pavia ; crossed the river
Trebia, subdued
Plcuienza,
Parma,
Regium The Kingdom of Modena, and
Mutina ilfoc/^a itself ; then came to
FcesuliB Fiesole; thence proceeded to
Aretium Arezzo; and thence to
Trasimene .... The lake of Perugia, or Thrasymenus.
Hannibal is supposed to have mild season, she found the wind
passed through Gaul, to the foot on the Apennine, between the lat-
of the Alps, in ten days. It seems ter City and Bologna, almost in-
an impossibility that he should supportably cold: and moreover,
have reached the Fenestrelles, Ce- the stoves, universally substituted
nis, S. Bernard, or S. Gothard, in in Germany for fire-places, the
so short a time. It likewise seems damp beds, (for there are no
improbable that he should have re- warming-pans, nor any other ma-
jected the passage of Monte- Viso, chines for drjring beds in German
which lay directly before him, to Hotels,) the keen air, from the
search for some other at a greater Alps, between Venice and Vienna,
distance ; especially as his only and the severity of the climate in
route to that other was through Moravia and Bohemia, are much
narrow and dangerous defiles. He to be dreaded by Travellers : and
is said, by Polybms, to have passed persons afi&icted with pulmonary
through the country of the Alio- complaints could not take this
broges, over an inomense Alp, journey at any season, the height
whence he saw and pointed out to of summer excepted, without risk-
his soldiers the rich and beautiful ing their lives * . The first day's
plains of Italy ; after which he journey firom Florence to Vienna,
immediately descended into valleys en voiturier, is to Ferrara, through
watered by the Po. a good road, and a most produc-
, All this exactly describes Monte- tive country.
Viso, on the Italian side of which Midway between this City and
lie the plains of Piedmont, and Bologna stands a neat and plea-
through these plains runs the Po, sant mn, the Albergo della Fenice,
which rises in Monte-Viso. Poly- called II Te, where Travellers may
bins likewise says, the first City dine or sleep,
taken by Hannibal in Italy was Ferrara is a fortified Town, ce-
Turin ; and that, too, might be ; lebrated for containing, in its pub-
for Turin is only twenty miles dis- lie Library, the Tomb of Ariosto,
tant from Pignerol ". his Chair, Inkstand, and Hand-
From Florence to Vienna the writing ; together with a bronze
Author of this Work travelled en Medallion of that great Poet,
voiturier ; and although her jour- found in his Tomb ; where likewise
ney was not undertsiken till the was found an account of his last
middle of April, yet, even at that illness and death. This Library
(«) Persons who have ascended Monte-Viso (0 In Moravia and Bohemia there are no
report, that the plains of Italy are discernible coverlids to the beds, except small eyder^
. from its summit. down quilts, which generally slip off.
Ch. XII J
FERRARA— PADUA.
415
also contains the original Manu-
scripts of Tasso's Germsalemme Li-
berata, and Guarini's Pastor Fido,
with several volumes of Music,
illuminated by Gosmei : and in the
Hospital of S. Anna, Travellers
are shewn the Cell where Tasso
was confined. The inn at Ferrara
(/ tre Mori) is large and comfort-
able ; the climate unwholesome,
and the water bad ".
The second day's journey to
Monselice, is tedious, owing to the
sandiness of the road for some
miles. Soon after quitting Fer-
rara Travellers cross the Po, on a
pont'Volant, and beyond Rovigo,
pass the Adige in a similar con-
veyance. The Post-house at Mon-
sehce is a good inn.
The third day's joumev, through
Padua to Mestri, may be accom-
plished in about ten hours, allow-
mg time sufficient to see every
thmg best worth notice at Padua.
The last-named Town, anciently
denominated Patavium, reputed
to owe its foundation to Antenor,
soon after the Trojan war, and
celebrated for having been the
birth-place of Liyy ^, is large,
and strongly fortified; but not
adorned with many handsome edi-
fices ; except its University, which
was built after the designs of Pal-
ladio.
This University, founded by the
Emperor Frederick II, in oppo-
sition to that of Bologna, once
contained eighteen thousand stu-
dents ; and still possesses Public
Schools, a Chemical Laboratory,
an Anatomical Theatre, a Museum
of Natural History, and a Botanic
Garden.
The Palazzo della Giustizia
contains an immense Town-hall,
the ceiling and walls of which were
originally painted by Giotto and
his scholars; and re-touched, in
1762, by Zannoni; the ceiling,
however, was destroyed, in con-
sequence of the roof blowing off;
but the Paintings on the Walls
remain. This apartment contains
a Monument to the memory of
Livy, and two Egyptian Statues.
In the Pcdazzo del Podesih is a
Painting, by Palma il Giovane, of
our Saviour blessing the City of
Padua.
The Duomo contains a modem
Monument to the memory of Pe-
trarca; a Madonna, by Giotto,
which once belonged to retrarca ;
and, in the Sacristy, a Portrait of
that Poet among the other Ca-
nons.
The Church dedicated to S, An-
tonio di Padova was begun by Nic-
colo, Pisano, in 1255 ; and finished
by Sansovino, in 1307 : it contains
Statues of Cardinal Bembo, and
other eminent Characters ; BasH-
rilievi by T. and A. Lombardo,
Sansovino, Campagna, ^c, a Cru-
cifix, by Donatello ; and Frescos,
by Giotto. In the adjoining Scuola
are Frescos, by Titian ; and in the
Area, before the Church, is an
Equestrian Statue, by Donatello,
of the famous General, sumamed
Gattamelata.
The Church dedicated to S, Gius-
Una, built by Andrea Riccio, after
the designs of Palladio, and a fine
specimen of architecture, is embel-
lished with a celebrated Painting
over the High-altar, by Paolo Vero-
nese ; together with beautiful 5a*«-
rilievi, said to have been executed
by Reichard, a French artist : they
ornament the Stalls in the Choir.
Padiia contains good Hotels ; the
most comfortable of which is the
Stella doro : and from this City a
public Passage-boat sets out every
morning, at an early hour, for
Venice ^,
The drive fi*om Monselice to
(tt) Boats large enough to accommodate a (v) Livy was not only born, bat died, at
family may be hired, at Ferrara, to go to Padua, in his sixty-seyeDth year.
Venice ; and this voyage occupies about (w) The village of Ahano^ anciently Apo-
twenty hours. niwn, between five aad six nules from rudua,
416 VENICE. [Ch. XII.
Padua is extremely interesting ; as work of man is like thee. Enchant-
the road runs parallel with the ment seems to have raised thy walls
Canal leading to Venice ; and is for the abode of the monarch of
bordered with Villas, built after the ocean, when he chooses to
the designs of Palladio, and em- desert his pearl-paved caves, and
bellished with a fine view of the emerge above the surface of his
Khsetian Alps. The road from watery kingdom !
Padua to MestrS is likewise inte- Venice is seven miles in circum-
resting ; as it exhibits a fine view ference, and composed of a large
of Venice. number of small islands, separated
After sleeping at Mestr^, where by canals, and re-united by bridges ;
there is a comfortable Hotel, and the great canal, which is in the form
a good remise for carriages, Tra-. of an S, divides the City into two
Tellers usually hire a Gondola, and nearly e<][ual parts. The Bridge, call-
embark for yenice ; whither one of ed the Rialto, the Piazzadi S.Marco,
these boats conveys a family, in containing the Church dedicated to
about two hours, for five francs and that Evangelist, and its Campanile
a half, buonamano inclusive : but, above three hundred feet in height,
during this short voyage. Travel- together with all the Churches and
lers are twice called upon to pre- Peaces erected by Palladio, San-
sent a small fee to Austrian Cus- sovino,Scamozzi,andSan.Michele,
tom-house Officers \ particularly deserve notice ; as does
The Venetians are supposed to the Arsenal, though an empty sha-
be descended from a People of dow now of its former self : but
Paphlagonia ; who, conducted by what excites most interest at Ve-
Antenor, colonized near Padua, not nice is to see how amply and con-
long subsequent to the destruction veniently this Town is supplied,
of Troy : they were called Veneti ; not only with the necessaries but
and, from them, Venice probably the luxuries of life ; though it pos-
derived its name : though the Town sesses naturally neither soU nor
of Rialto, now denominated Venice, fresh- water,
was not built till some centuries The Basilica of S, Marco^hegan^
after the commencement of the according to repute, in the year
Christian era. It stands upon piles, 977, and finished in 1071, contains
in the midst of Shallows, called the Relics of Saint Mark ; which
Lagunes ; and contains, according were removed hither, from Alexan-
to report, about a hundred thou- dria. The exterior Gates, ten in
sand mhabitants. number,and five within the Church,
It is scarce possible to discover (all traiisported to Venice from
the magnificent edifices of Venice Constantinoj^e,) are Corinthian
floating, as it were, on the bosom brass. The Front of this venerable
of the deep, without exclaiming. Edifice displays, above the prin-
Singular and beautiful City! of cipal Entrance, a Figure of S.
whose appearance imagination can Mark, finely executed m Mosaic :
form no idea, because no other the interior is completely lined with
is much frequented daring summer, on account named from the rapid Conflux of two Rivulets ;
of the Warm Baths in its neighbourhood; where and about three miles from Bataglia lies
the Suda^or^, and Bagno di Fango^ or Mud- Arqna, or Arquato, imbosoroed in the Eaga-
Bath, are said to have proved, in many cases, nean Hills, and famous for having been the
beneficial. It seems doubtful whether Pliny, Residence and Burial-place of Petrarca.
bv the Fontet Palivini^ means the present («) Travellers who have no carriage of
Baths of Abano ; because he reports the their own, frequently embark at Francolino,
former to have emitted smells from which the which is five miles from Ferrara; and go all
latter are exempt. About six miles from the way to Venice by water; a voyage of
Abano is the Villa Catajo, celebrated for eighty miles, on the Po, the Adige, the Brenta.
Frescos, by Paolo Veronese. One mile from and tne Lagunes,
Catajo U the littto Town of Bataglia, so
Ch.XII.3 . VENICIf. 417
Mosaics ; and those in' the Chst- Sculpture is a beautiful Group, in
pel of the Madonna are much marble, of Ganymede and the
admired. The pavement is Mo- Eagle, attributed to Phidias. The
saic ; and here are eight Co- Hall with Four Doors, contains a
lumns of a serpentine form, brought Painting, by Titian, of Faith, S.
by the Venetians from Constanti- Mark, <!•<?. The Hallof the Inqui-
nople, when they conquered that sition is ornamented with a Picture
City, and supposed to have once by the Cav. Bassano I and another
belonged to the Temple at Jeru- by the School of Titian. The Col-
salem. Most of the numerous legial Hall contains Europa, - by
Columns which ornament the inte- Paolo Veronese I and two Pictures
rior and exterior of the Edifice are by Tintoretto. The Cabinet con-
Saracenic. The celebrated Horses tains a Fresco on its Ceiling, by
of bronze gilt, carried to Paris by Baolo Veronese ; together with
Napoleon, but now returned, and Easel-pictures ; one being by the
extremely ill placed above the same master, and others by Tin-
Architrave on the outside of this toretto.
Church, are four in number ; and. The Accademia delle belle Arii
according to general opinion, the possesses several fine Pictures;
work of Lysippus: they ori^nally among which are, the Assumption,
adorned Corinth ; where, it is sup- by Titian, originally placed in the
posed, they belonged to the Cha- Church where he lies buried I ! —
riot of the Sun ; from Corinth they the same subject by Palma Vec-
were brought to Rome by the Con- chio — ^the Resurrection of Lazarus,
sul Mummius, (sumamed Achai- by Bassano ! — the Marriage of
cus, for having sacked Corinth ;) Cana, by Paduanino — ^Adam and
thence they were removed to By- Jive, by Tintoretto — the Holy
zantium, and thence transported to Family, by Paolo Veronese —and
Venice by the Doge Dandalo, in the Miracle of S. Mark, by Tinto-
1204. Winckelmann calls them retto.
the finest bronze horses extant '. The Chiesa de' Gesuitit (a hand-
The view from the top of the some Edifice, elegantly incrusted
Campanile of S, Marco is well with Mosaics of verde antique, ^c.
Worth seeing ; and the ascent easy, resembling in their effect green
This Tower was the place where damask hangings,) contains a Pic-
Galileo made his astronomical ob- ture of the Martyrdom of S. Lo-
servations. renzo, by Titian ; and, in the Sa-
The Palazzo Ex-Ducale con- cristy, the Presentation, by Tinto-
tains» in the great Council Cham- retto.
ber, Tintoretto's largest Easel- The Chiesa dei Carmilitani is
picture ; which serves to shew how lined with precious marbles, and
entirely great talents may be very magnificent,
thrown away by want of proper The Chiesa del Carmine has the
attention to methodical arrange- best Organ at Venice ; and a Pic-
ment ; for the whole work is a ture of the Presentation, by Tinto-
mass of confusion 4 though it retto.
abounds with fine groups, and in The Chiesa di S. Giovanni e S.
some parts is wonderfully wdl Paolo contains a Painting byTi-
executed. On the Ceiling of this tian; another by Perugino; a beau-
Apartment is a Fresco, by Paolo tiful Window of painted glass ;
Veronese, representing Venice and, in a large Chapel adjoining
crowned by Fame I and among the the Church, some fine Alti-rilievt,
(i/) The Treasurrof the ChtiTch of S. Marco ten with his own hand ; and a Misgal illamU
is said to cofttaib the Gospel of S. Mark, writ* nated with Jmniatures. by Ginlio Clovio.
2S
4ii vsmcs. tCh-Xll,
giore Prts btfilt hf Palmdio, in a lish^d with k splwidid Collection
•tyle of grand ftimplicitt. of l*ictures ; which may be seen
The Chiem del Redentore was by Travellers every Monday and
likewise bnilt by PaUadio, and is, limrsday, from ten in the morning
in f^int of architecture^ a beautiful till four.
Church. The Ar^enai occupies an Island
fhe Chiesd di S*» Maria della near three miles in circumference.
Salute contains iJie Descent of the and is so well defended by lofty
Holy Ghost, painted by 'titian walls, turrets, <^c., as to resemble
ii^hen he was sixty-four ; twd Pic- a fortress. Its principal entrance
tur^ }3j Luea Giordano ; and one, is ornamented, on the outside,
hf Antonio Treva, which was buri- with the Winged Lion of Venice *
ed eighteen years, withoiit being a Colossal Lion in white marble,
inaterially ihjui^. taken from the Piraeus at Athens I
in the Ptieutzo Pisani'Mereta ift another Lion, taken from Athens \
a Picture of Alexander with the a Lioness, titken front Cotinth:
f'amily of Darius, by Paolo Vero- and another, having the word
nese ; ft work which seems com- ** Attica^" marked upon it. Dur*
posed in defiance to classical know- ingthe year 168^, tne Venetians
ledge fend good taste ; but so planted the banner of S. Mark in
harmotiiotis is the colouring, and Athens ; which, at that period, they
so tseautiful the painting, that few wrested from the Ottoman Porte,
persons can contemplate this Pie- They had previously captured Co-
lure without forgetting its faults, rinth ; and the four above-named
and dwelling only on its excel- Statues were among their spoils
lencies. • transported to Venice. The object
The Court of the Palazto^Chi- best worth notice, now, within the
fHoni displays a Colossal Statue of Walls of the Arsenal is the ancient
Marcus Agrippa ; which was ori- Armoury — a melancholy contem'-
ginaUy placed in the vestibule of plation, considering what this Ar*-
the Pantheon at Rome. This Statue senal once was; but, "The Soul
is Greek workmanship, and much of the City is fled ! '*
admired. The Rialto, the PiJizift di S.
The Palasaso-Barberigo, in which Marco, and the Street and Garden
Titian died, contains a Picture of made by Napoleon, (ft mftgniflcent
the Saviour, by that great artist — work,) are me only Promenades
the Holy Family, by Tintoretto — at Venice. This City contains
the porbrait of a Venetian Senator, several Theatres ; the largest of
by Titian — the Magdalene, likewise which is the Fenice: it likewise
by Titian ! — Venus— Paul III — contains good Hotels ; namely. La
and S. Sebastiano, all by Titian; ' Gran-Bretagna — II Leone bianco —
Who left the last unfinished, incon- and LAlbergo ctEuropa : the first,
sequence of his death-^Susanna though the best inn at Venice, is,
and the Elders, by Tintoretto— and during winter and the early part of
the Prodigal Son, by Leandro Bas- spring, cold and gloomy ; the last
6ano. stands in a much warmer situation.
The Scuola di S, Rocco contains. The Gold Chains made in this
on the ground-floor, a Picture of City are particularly beautiful, and
the Annunciation, and other works, the Wax C andles remarkably good,
by Tintoretto » who painted in this Persons who are anxious to ob-
School for thirty years \ and in a tain springs water, may be supplied
room above-stairs is a very lai^e from the terra firma.
and flse Pieture ef ^le Gme^xioa, IVayeUers, en th^ day of de-
Ukewise ^Tintoretto. parture, usually dine at Venice;
CK Xnj CONEGLIANQ-PONTEBA-VILLACH. M
and then embark in a Gondola comfortable; but the water hei«,
for Mestrh sleeping in that Town ; as in most parts of the Alps, is
whence the fourth day's journey, bad; and many inhabitants of this
hj land, is to Coneglicmo ; a con- country, especiaUy women, are af-
siderable place, with a good Inn, flicted with immense goitrous swell-
La Posta. About ten miles from ings. From Resiuta, which is
Mestrd the road passes liirough somewhat above half way to Poa*
Treviso ; then crosses the Piave ; teba, the road lies through Deities
and subsequently traverses the spot of the Alps, near the bed of tht
where Napoleon fought an obsti^ Tagliamento, and is good, thougli
nate battle. too narrow ; the views are lovely :
The fifth day*s journey, to' PoT" and this part of the Alps displays
denon, is tedious ; and the road five or six Bridges made of wood,
between this place and Conegliano and covered at the top : in Gh»^
unpleasant after heavy rain, as it many, likewise, the Bridges are
lies close to the foot of the Alps, usually made with wood, tiiough
from which Mountains torrents of not all covered at the top.
water frequently descend, and in- Ponteba, the Frontier Town of
undate the adjacent country. La Carinthia, is a miserable-looking
Pogfa, at Pordenon, is a good inn. place ; and at the Custom-house,
The siidh day's journey is to here, luggage undergoes such a
S. TommasOj where the Inn does rigorous examination, in the open
not merit commendation. street, that Travellers who can
The road, as far as Spilimbergo, avoid Ponteba would act wisely by
lies near the Alps, and through the so doing. Writing-boxes, pocket-
Bed of a Torrent, disagreeable at books, and manuscript papers of
all times, and unsafe after rain ; all descriptions, are liable to be
and from Spilimbergo descends into examined : gold and silver lace,
the Tagliamento, a tremendous snufp, and tobacco, are seizable;
Torrent after rain, but in dry wea- and for unmade silks, and gauzes,
ther fordable. It formerly occu- Travellers are compelled to deposit
pied a full hour to travel through double the worth, to be paid back,
thij3 Torrent, with the assistance however, when they quit the impe«
of oxen and guides; but a fine rial territories*. The Custom-house
Bridge has been lately thrown over Officers accept no fees, and are
the most daneerous part. slower in their operations than it is
The seventh day's journey is to possible to conceive.
Ponteba, or Pontefel, for the place The eighth day's journey is to
has both names : its Inn is a very Ftllach ; through a wide Defile of.
bad one ; and the road hither rough, the Alps, a good road, and a beau-
so far as L' O spedaJetto ; after pass- ti t'ul countr]^ ; every mountain being
ing which Town it enters a Defile clothed to its summit with noble
of the Alps, leading to Venzone, a fir-trees. The German villages,
pretty ViUage' imbosomed in these however, at the foot of the moun-
mountains ; and hence to Resiuta tains, in some measure spoil the
the road, which lies parallel with beauty of the scene, as nothing
the bed of the Tagliamento, is ex- can be more uncouth than the
cellent ; the views are sublime, and wooden buildings which compose
the Alpine plants, which enamel them, except the fences, which are,
the rocks, particularly beautifid. if possible, still worse. The houses
The Inn at Resiuta is clean and are rootied with wood; and the
(z) Yonr silks, ^c, are plumbed ; you are Hre deposited to be'retorned at the oostom?
asked, what road you purpose taking ? and house on the conlines.
70a then receiye an order for the money yo«
2s2
420 KLAGENFURT. [Ch. XIl
consequence is, that these awkward sist of straight streets, with a lat^
edifices are continually burnt to square in their centre, decorated by
the ground. The Germans seldom an obelisk, statues of the Madon-
have a wash-hand basin in any na, oiur Savioiur, ^c. The Ger-
bed-room of their country inns ; man horses are remarkably strong
and even at Villach, a lai^e Town, and handsome ; and the whole
this necessajy accommodation was country, from Ponteba to Vienna,
not to be found a few years since, wears the face of wealth, more.
The Inn at Villach is, however, perhaps, than any other part of
clean and good ; though tall people Europe.
cannot sleep comfortably either Travelling in this quarter of
here or in any part of Germany ; Grermany seems like living some
the beds, which are very narrow, hundred years ago in England ;
being placed in wooden frames, or as the dresses, customs, and man-
boxes, so short, that any person ners, of the people precisely re-
who happens io be above five feet semble those of our ancestors,
hi^, must absolutely sit up all Many of their implements of hus-
night, supported by pillows; and bandry, also, appear similar to
this is, in fact, the way in which purs ; and their kitchens are fur*
the Germans sleep. nished with plates, dishes, basins
With respect to provisions, there and ewers of pewter, and wooden
is no cause for complaint ; meat, trenchers, exactly hke those which
bread, and wine, (somewhat like may still be seen among us, in
Hock) beer, soup, and bouillie, old farm-houses*. The herbs, and
sour-crout, stewed prunes, coffee, shrubs also resemble those of
and milk, being excellent ; and England, except that barberry^
water, generally speaking, good, bushes are substituted for Uack-
The usual dinner-hour is twelve berries ; while the firs grow so
o*clock ; at which time Travellers luxuriantly, that young plants, a
may always find something to eat few inches high, literally carpet
at the inns, German cookery being the woods.
simple and wholesome : but as one The road from L'Ospedaletto to
requisite to a comfortable meal, Villach possesses one great advan*
clean table-linen, is difficult to be tage, that of being perhaps the only
obtained in small towns, persons approach to Italy (except the road
who travel through Germany would from Nice, through Genoa, to
find it worth while to purchase Lucca,) which does not pass over
table-cloths and napkins for their the summits of the Alps. It is
journey. likewise tolerably level; and has
Women, in this country, seem no capital fault, but that of being
to work harder than men ; and at too narrow,
public-houses female servants not From Villach the ninth day's
only cook the dinner, and wait at journey is to Klagenfurt, through
table, but even feed the horses, a good road, and a finely cultivated
The peasantry have fine complex- and beautiful country, adorned
ions, with a great appearance of with a noble sheet of water, called
health and strength, but their the Lake of Fel. The vallies are
countenances seldom express good- variegated with small villages and
humour, or quickness of appre- rustic churches, lUke those of Eng-
hension ; they dress neatly, and land ; the near mountains clothed
wear high shoes, Uke those of our to their summits with firs and
English Farmers, The women other trees> while behind them
are said to be depraved in their rise Alps covered with eternal
morals. , snow.
Most of the countiy towns con- Klagenfurt, the capital of Styria,
Ch. XII.] tEOBEN—SCHOTTWIEN— VIENNA. 431
is a large and strongly fortified rapid, insomuch that Tiraggons
City : the houses are tolerably ascend on the Schottwien side
neat, the spires of the churches with sixteen and sometimes twenty
built in the Turkish style, and co- horses. The country from Merz-
vered with white metal ; and the hofen to Schottwien is wild, and
. Inns chiefly resorted to, {The Sun finely wooded ; and the Post-house
and The Star,) are not uncomfort< at Schottwien is a tolerable Hotel,
able. After sleeping at Klagen- The fifteenth day's journey is to
furt. Travellers usually proceed, on Traskirken, The road trayerses
the tenth day, to Friesach, through an extensive plain, well cultivsted,
an excellent road; and a bold, to Neukirken, and Neustadt ;
finely wooded, and richly cultivated (where Travellers generally dine)
country. In the way to Friesach both Towns are large, and contain
lies S. .Veit, a handsome Town, good Hotels. Neustadt is fortified.
The Inn at Friesach is good ; The road hence to Traskirken is
and after ' sleeping there. Travel- ]evel and smooth, exhibiting, to
lers usually proceed, on the ele- the right, a prospect of Hungaiy
venth day, to Judenburg; stop- and the Danube. Traskirken,
ping at Neumarkt to dine. The though large, does not possess
road to the latter Town is good ; comfortable Inns,
and the country well cultivated. The sixteenth day's journey (a
though not picturesque ; but near very short one)- is to Vienna';
Judenburg it is clothed with mag- through a flat country, abounding
nificent woods. The Golden Cross withjgame, and thickly spotted with
a/nd Scythe, in this Town, is a villages, but not well cmtivated.
clean comfortable Inn. On entering Vienna Travellers
After sleeping at Judenburg, are taken to the Custom-house,
Travellers usually proceed, on the where their trunks undergo an ex-
twelfth day, to Leooen, the road to amination. The best Hotels in this
which Town is good, winding near City, at the present moment (1827)
a meandering stream called the are — VArchiduc Charles, expen-
Muhr: the views are beautiful, sive but much firequented by Bri-
TraveUers usually dine about mid- tish Travellers, and situated in the
way at Khraubath, The Imperial Roemerstrasse — L'Homme sou-"
Eagle at Leoben is a comfortable va^^— and Le Cigne, in the same
Inn ; and the Town, for this coun- situation — VImj>eratrice dtAu»
try, may be called handsome ; triche, in the Weihbourggasse ; a
several of the houses being buUt good Hotel — VEmpereur Romain,
with stone or brick. on the Preyung--Le Bceuf dor, in
The thirteenth day's journey is the 8eilergasse—Le Bosuf blanc,
through Bruck to Merzhofen, or near the Custom-house — La Cou-^
the next Post, as Travellers best ronne dHonsrie, in the Johannes^
like. The Inn at Merzhofen fur- gasse —Le Cerf Brun — and L$
nishes tolerable accommodations. Loup blanc, in the Heish Markt^^
The fourteenth day's journey is and La Sainte Trinity, in the Ho-»
to Schottwien, whither the road hen Markt. The Faubourgs like-
through Krieglach, as far as Mor- wise contain several Hotds, the
zuschlag, (where Travellers gene- best of which is The Lamb. The
rally dine,) is good : but between aforesaid Inns are of two descrip-
this Town and Schottwien lies a tions, those with Lodging-rooms,
lofty Mountain, the ascent to the and those which are merely Eating-
summit of which occupies about houses. The first description of
an hour; the descent employs more Hotel isj)rovided with a public
. fiian double that time, and is very Eating-room, containing a CartQ
4^2 VIENNA- [Ch-Xn.
. d fiumger; which speeifieft th« price ing is to take a private apartmoit,
' of eatables, both for dinner and and employ a Tradteur.
supper, but Travella's may be Vienna, properly so called, and
served in their own apartment, if built at the confluence of the Da-
tl»y Irish it. The lowest price per nube and the Wien% is small, but
Lodging-room, without lire, in strongly fortified; its Faubourgs,
these. Hotels, is two florins a day. however, are umnense, and con-
Among the best Sating- houses, tain finer buildings than the Town
mK»T-rLe Corde Ckass&^Le Scha- itself; in which the palaces are
bmurueisel — LeJPisch'kof — L'Ag- few, and not spacious; and the
neau — La Baleine — VEtoUer-axtd want of spleiMhd streets, and
La Mekigrubei, At the Houses of squares, prevents it from appear-
.BeHauraieurs dinners are served ing, to foreign eyes, a handsome
from twelve o*doek till three ; ev^y city. Its population, without re^-
person paying a fixed price; and onmg the Garrison, amounts to
every party having its own table, two hundred and forty thousand
Among the most eelebraited Re- Inhabitants, Faubourgs inclusive ;
HaurcSeurs, are — Filkire, on the its climate is variable, and not
Brandstadi^--€t€igertintheGraben temperate, bang, at some periods
— Wtdtmann, in tke Sineer^irauB of the year, extremely warm ; and
•r^and Zanini, in the n^eiJUn&^^ at others extremely cold ; though
ga»i€» The lowest price for din*- seldcmi damp : neither is it univer-
Dcr, without bread and wine, is «ally supplied with palatable water:
three florins a head, at the houses and water-drinkers would do well,
oCgood Restaurateurs ; but at those while resident here, to supply them*
Df an inferior description dinner selves, either at the CapudunCon*
nay be procured for forty or fifty vent, in the Place Neuve ; or at
Itreutzersahead*. Thefii^Cof^- the Palace of Prince Schwarzen-
house in Christian Europe was berg.
established at Vienna, A.D. 1683. Among tiie objects best worth
Those most frequented now, are notice are; two Aimtains, in the
ihsioi Kramer ^MdMarcelUfCom^ Hof, or prindpal Square — the
monly called Taroni^ in the Graben Sculpture, by Banm Fischer and
r-that of Wiersckmidt^ in the Comradini, in the Hohe Markt-^
Neutnarkt-'ihaA. of Neuner, in the the Sctdpture in the Neu-Marki,
Plankengaese'^nxid that near the by Donner, representing the four
Custom-house. The Newspapers principal Rivo^ of Lower Austria^
of all the European nations may numeify, the Danube, the March^
be Sound in these Coffee-houses, the Enns, and the Leytha — the
yiennadoesnot contain ready-fur* Equeetrian Statue of Joseph 11^
Btshed private Lodging-houses: bu Zauner, in the Place de Joseph-^
but several of the Shops are pro- the Metropolitan Church of S. Ste*
vided with second-hand Furniture; phen; a Gothic Edifice, three hun-
whieh Fordgners may hire by the dred and forty-two feet long, two
week, month, or year ; and as the hundred and twenty-two feet wide.
Hotels in this City are not so good and seventy-nine m height. Tho
as n)i^ reasonably be expected Picture whidi adorns the Hi^-
in the Capital of a great anpire, altar is by Bock ; and those over
the most comfortaUe mode of liv- the large Altars on ea^ side are by
• (a) Travellers should endeavoar, at Vieona, substance with their white wines ; particularly
to procttre old Aastnaa wine ; which in more those of the Rhine.
wholeNome than the oommon wines of Hun- ly) The aouroe of this small rirer, horn
tfarjr. The Germans, if report may he ere- which Vienna derives its appellation, is in the
aitad, freqaently mix a poisonoas metallic Wiener- Wold, about three iearaes fhmi &•
Town.
Cl)(.Xnj VIBNNA. m
fiandrait I^Churetieontajiii«ii eatidiitotheX>mel(M*«-*71^/ii^-
Ecee Homo, iittribttted to Correggk), no/ PuA/t'i; L^prmy (PUmx^JitsefiQ
a CrueiSx, by Donner, the Tpnab of is placed in a mii^ifieent ApAit-
Prince£ug!eneofSavoy; andaSa- meiit, two hundred and forty fieet
cristy furnished with superb Plate : long, by fifty-four wide, and high
the Tapestry di^layed on Festi- in i»*oportion. Its centre displays
vals is likewise very precious. The the Statues of Chaiies VI, fund
celebrated Belfry of this Cathedral twdve other Emperors of Ger-
measures four hundred and thirty- many : the GeiHng is pamted l^
four Pans &et and a half in height Daniel Gran ; ami the number of
'-^The Church dediccUed to S. Pe- {Minted volumes deposited in this
ter is built in imitation of S. Pe- Apartment is su^^^osed to be three
ter's, at Eome — The Chureh of S. hundred thousand, besides six thou-
Michael^ a handsome Edifice, is sand, (in another room) which
embellished with a group of the were printed between the time when
Ardiaiigel Miehael vanquishing typography was invented, and the
8atan by Matttelli— r^fte? Chur^ yeSir 1504). The number of M^-
Monging to the Auguetime Can- nuscripts is computed to be twelve
pent ooDtBins a Fr^M^o by Mai- thousand : and the library is like-
foertsch, over the High- altar ; the wise enriched with a superb ooUee-
Tomb of the Emperor, LeopoM 11, tion of Engravings ; among wludi
by Zauner; the Tomb of Marshal are above two htuidred volumes ^f
iMun; and the M<mument of Pi(»rtraits» Himie of the most va-
Duke Aih^ of Sax Teschen» hy luable Manuscripts are — Original
■Canova— /» the Church behmg^ Hieroglyphics of the ancient Mexi-
ing to the Capuehin Ccnvent i$ cans, consisting of Figures and
the Burial-place qf the Aue4ri(m Symbols — Oriental Manusmpts,
Priftcef-^The Intperial Beeidmee purchased at Constaotin<qile, in
comprises a Chapel enriched with 1677 — a Work written l^ Diosoo-
two AttAr«-pieces, by Titian, a fine rides*^, with Paintings of medicinal
Library; a sup^b Manege i and H^*bs, executed in the eighth een-
Apartments ^ the i^^efoi^ " — The iurv — a Codex containing the
/v^perial Jewel Ojfioe is splendid — tmi Decade of Livy*.. The M%-
Tke Imperiai CeMnet of Antiques nusoripts of the Emperor, Charles
and Medals (Corridor dee Augus- V — the Poem of ** Jerusalem d«-
iineSt) contains a large collection livered, in Tasso's hand-writing*^
Qi first-rate Camei $ among which the o^ebrated Table of Peutinger<-^
}% that of Augustus and his the original Roman Senatue Cot^
Family; twelve hundred ancient #W^tim ofthe year U.C* 667, prohi-
Etruscan and Grecian Vases ; four hiting Bacchsmals — Leaves of the
hundred ancient Lamps; Sarco- Koran, written in the ninth cenUuy
pha^; Btatues, Busts, 4^. and — and I^eces of Egyptian Papyrus,
twenty-two Vases of gold, found The Imperial Public library is
A.D. 1799, intheBanatofTemes- always open from eight in the
war; and apparently fBibricated morning tiU twelve; and trom three
during the sisUh century. Thehn- in -the afternoon till six, during
perimCainHetGif Natural History t summery and likewise from nine
4^, in the Place-Joseph^ may be in the morning till twelve, during
jeen ev^ Wednesday morning Winter, Sundays, oth^ Festivals,
b^re iw4ve o*clock« by an applf ^od Vacation Times, exerted;
(c) These Redoutes take place the first day dicinal Herbs.
jof the y£»r, and end with the Carnival, (ej The first five BooVs of the fifth D«sade
(d) Dioscondes was Physician to Anthony of Livy, were dis6oy«jrM 9i WonnSi A» O*
and Cleopatra, and wrote it Work upon Me> liliOl.
434 VIENNA. [Ch- XII.
and persons who wish to read, or pieces, by Van Hv^sum. The
make extracts, from any of the Rooms above-stairs likewise con-
books, are permitted to ask for tain Pictures highly deserving of
the volume they want; which is notice, from being the Works of the
immediately carried into the Read- very earliest masters of the Flemish
ing-room, where pens and ink are and German Schools. They are
provided ; and where silence is en- in excellent preservation, possess
joined, that students may not be considerable merit, and form a
interrupted. — The Imperial Col- most interesting history of the
lection of Paintings, called the rorogress of the Art. One of these
BeMdire Gallery, highly merits Pictures, (an oil painting) is re-
notice. The great Hall on the first puted to have been executei during
floor of the Edifice in which this the year 1292. Several of the
Collection is placed, has, on both Pictures in the Belv6d^re CoUec-
sides, a Gallery, each of which leads tion belonged to Charles I, of
to nine Rooms, including Cabinets. England. This Gallery is open-
The rooms on the right confain ed to the Public on Tuesdays
Paintings oftheltalian Schools; and and Fridays, at nine in the mom-
the Rooms on the left comprise the ing, and continues open till two in
productions of the Flemish School, the afternoon, from the last of
On the second Floor the two first September to the twenty-third of
Rooms on the right contain Works April ; and the remainder of the
of the ancient Grerman SchooL year from nine in the morning till
In the third Room are Works of twelve; and a^ain from three in the
the very ancient Flemish School ; afternoon till six. Festivals and rai-
and in the fourth Room Paintings ny Days excepted'. TheBeMdere
of the middle ages. The Rooms ancient Armoury is open to the
on the left contain ancient and Public every Thinrsday after twelve
modem Works of the Italian, Fie- o*clock. — The Lichtenstein Gal'
mish, and German Schools, mixed lery, situaled in the Lichtenstein
together. Among the Pictures on Garden, Faubourg Rossau, con-
the ground-floor are — a lirge tains upward of seven hundred
Work, by Titian, finely execut^,. Pictures, some of tiiem very fine
but injfenor to his master-pieces at ones : but in order to see this CoU
Venice — charming Pictures, by lection it is necessary to ask per-
Rembrandt ; esj)ecia]ly a Portrait mission of the Prince*.— 2%^ Pic-
of himself; which, tor bravura tures of Prince Esterhazy msy he
and truth, may be denominated seen every Tuesday and Thursday,
his chef'dosuvre — a fine Picture from nine to twelve in the mom-
by Rubens, representing an Em- ing, and from three to six in the
peror receiving pardon for an attemoon. — The Gallery of the
oifence committed against the Comte de Fries contains a particu-
Holy See— Jupiter, and lo, by larly fine Claude. — The Great Ar^
Correggio I !— Ganymede, by the senal, in the Rennsasse, merits
same great master t \ The former notice — as does the H6td des In-
of these last named Works has valides, which is ornamented with
been retouched in the back groimd; a large Picture, by Krafft, repre-
but is, exclusive of this circum- senting the Battle of Leipsie. —
stance, pure from the pencil of The Roy al Porcelain-manufacture,
Correggio — ^two Heads, by Den- in the Faubourg Rossau, deserves
ner— and some excellent Flower- notice.
CD It 18 lunal to g:iTC s eonple of florins Cnstode abore-staire ; and two pauls 9x9
for seeing thu Gallery. enoagh for tb« Porter below.
(9) Here, one florin is sufficient for tii«
Ch. XII.] VIENNA— BADEN. 429
Vienna ha3 two Theatres belong- at Schombrunn is- superbly fbr*
ing to the Court, namely, the Thea-^ nished with Tapestry, Porcelain,
tre NaiiofuU, and the Roemerthor Mirrors, Lustres of Bohemian
Tkeatet. There are others in the . Ciystal, Ornamented Clocks, and
Faubouxgs; and that on the River Paintings. The Ceiling of the
Wien is a handsome Edifice. The Great Saloon is by Guglielmi ; and
Theatre Ro^ral, where Operas are that of the Chapel, by Daniel Gran,
performed, is not striking, either. The Altar-piece in this Chapel is
with respect to architecture, or bv Troger ; and the Statues are by
stage decorations : but its instru- Koehl.
mental and vocal Performers may. The national dish in Germany
generally speaking, be called the consists of small chickens firied
best in £urope *". very diy ; being first cut into
The objects most worthy of ob- pieces, as* for a mcassee : and this
servation in the Faubourgs are ; dish is particularly well served by
the Church of S, Charles^ a splen- Traiteurs,
did Edifice, on the Rennwegg road The best Austrian Wines grow
— The Summer Palaces of Princes near Vienna; and are those of
Schwarzetiberg and Liditenstein, Weidling, Grinding, Nussberg, Pi.
where the Garaens are open to the samberg, and Brunn. They are^
Public — TA« Pra/^, a magnificent excellent in point of -flavour; but
Promenade, whither the Inhabit- not salutary, till they become old,
ants of Vienna usually drive after Delicious Hungarian wines may
dinner^ and where excellent cof- likewise be procured at Vienna-
fee, milk, be^, bread, &c. may The necessaries of life, lodgings
be procured. — The Augarten, si- and fire-wood excepted, are cheap
tuated on the large Island of the in this City ; and the number of
Danube, and communicating, by Voitures de Remise, Fiacres, and
two Alleys, with the Pititer. The Sedan-chairs, affords great accom*
Augarten contains two largeEating- modation to Travellers.
rooms, where parties are supplied The distance from Florence hi-
with dinner by a good Tratteur; ther is computed to be about nine
every party having its separate hundred Tuscan mUes: and the
table. Private rooms may like- expense of barriers and turnpikes,
wise be obtained ; and parties for one four-wheeled carriage, it
sometimes dine under the shade of fi*om five to six Tuscan sequins,
fine horse-chestnut-trees in this Better carriages are built at
Garden. A band of music, which Vienna than in any other City of
plays during dinner, receives, fi*om the Continent ; and that sort
each party, a' paul or two. Din- known by the name of Bdtarde, is
ner is served, at various prices, safe and convenient for travelling,
from the first of May to the last of Baden, two Posts from Vienna, is
September. Here are a Billiard- situated near a branch of the Rah*
room, a Dancing-room, and a lenberg: its Hot Baths were known
Coifee-room ; and the Waiters to the ancient Romans, who called
speak French and Italian. At them Aquce Cetice, or the Baths
Schombrunn (annexed to the Im- of Mons-Cetius, now the Rah-
perial Residence,! is another Public lenberg. Baden is a small Town,
Garden, where dinners are served with extensive Suburbs : its Val-
in the same manner, and during ley of S\ Helena is lovely; and
the same months, as at the Au- considering its vicinitjr to the Sty-
garten. The Imperial Residence rian Alps, the climate is not rigor-
(K) It is difficult, at this Theatre, for a Fo- without anv impropriety, sit in tb« Parterre,
]reiffn«r to .obtain a Box : bai liadies may, tending beforehand for »eati.
$n MOBATIA^ZNAIH— JGLAU. [Ck Xn.
oui. Here ute wmtnl Lodging^ vated; And resen^kf Ihe Bouth
liouses ; eaeh of which has its of Fraace. Not for from HoUa^
Ttixiteur: here likewise are two Inruiin sUuuls an Impenal Chstteau.
public Rettaurateun ; the one »t The towns on this side of Vienna
The H6tel de la Courwmet the ^re chiefly built with brick aad
Other at The Casino. These pub- stone ; and the villages ccmsist of
lie Bestaurateurs have the privilege neaUy thatched cottages*
of sending out dinners, which, at . The third day's journey (not a
their own houses, are served from long one) is through Jezelsdorf,
an £cu to five florins per head, the first Town of Moravia, to
Superadded to the aforesaid Inns, Znaim ; and th« road is good and
are« The Cerfdor, zndAiglenoir. flat, one steep hill beyond Jezds-
The price for eadi Bath is from doif excepted. Znaim stands in a
MM florin to foiu'groschen. vast and richlv cultivated plain.
The Castle of Laxenberg, about abounding with oom and vine*-
the same distance as Ba&n from yards : it contains several Hot^,
Vieiina, is fitted up like an andent {The Three Crottme being one of
Fortress ; and contains all the the best) ; is large, handsome, and
Arms from the Castle of Ambras, ,built somewhat like an Italian
in. the lyrol. city. Travellers here have nothing
From Vienna to Prague the to complain ot except bad wttter.
Author of this Work travelled en The fourth day's journey is to
voiturier: but it is more expe- Schelleiau; on the way to whic^
dient, between Vienna and Dres- Town Travellers usually atop to
den, to travel post; because the dine at Schinta, where the Inn
roads, of late, have been consider- cannot be commended* The road
ably inqyroved ; and the regular to Schinta is occasMmaUy rough ;
tioBs« with respect to travelling and thence to Bchelletau roupier
post* are now excellent. Moreover, still ; as it lies through a swampy
the Post-masters and other Imt'- plain* Near Schelletau are flofi
keepers* between Vienna and 'woods of ^ ; and the Hotel in this
Dresden, are unaccommodating to Town, The Post-House, is tolerably
Voituriers. good.
The first day's journey, en tfou- Travelers usually proceed* on
lumr, between Vienna and Prague, the fifth day, throush Iglau aad
is to Stockerau; through a good Stecken, to DeutsohSrodt ; a long
but sandy road; whien, beyond drive; in order to avoid sleeping
Vienna, displays a beautiful view at Stecken, where the accommoda-
of the I>an\:d>e, with sevo^al Royal tions are not comfortable.
Parios and Gardens, forming altoge*- Iglau, the last City of Moravia,
ibear a lovely scene. The Danube is handsomely built m the Italian
is immensely wide, and at the same style ; and thie outsides of some of
time so translucent, as to be. a the houses are enobellished witli
mat embellisher of every country curious okl Paintings. The square
SiroujB^ which it flows. The road contains good Hotels. The spires
iB Stockerau traverses a vast of the churches in this country,
plain, richly cultivated, and inters like those of Carinthia, are chicdiy
^peraed with several towns. covered with white metal. The
The second day's journey is to dress of the fema^ peasants is
HeUabrunn; a hancfsome Town ; mretty ; but what looks strange to
which contains comfortable Hotels. loreign eyes, the women wear short
The road hitiier has no fault but petticoats and drawers, whUe tbe
that of being, in some places, men's coats reach to their shoes,
sandy ; the country ii wall 6ulti« Fur seems much worn by botb
CiuXIIJ BOHEMIA— PRAGUE. 48f
sexes. TVav«21ers usually dine at Holy Crost, merit motice. The
Iglau ; tbence proceeding through beautiful Bridge of Prague is
a good road, and a country richly thrown over the Moldau, whieh
cultivated with eom and varie- runs into the Elbe.
gated wi^ woods, to Stecken and Here are several Hotels : The
Deutschbrodt ; beyond the former Rothe Hans, (good and cheap,)
of which towns the road traverses and The Schwartze R099, are those
a lofty hill. Stecken is the first most frequaited.
Post-town in Bohemia. The vulgar tongue in Bohemia,
The sixth day's journey, similar and part of Moravia, is a dialect
to the last respecting scenery, is to of the Sclavonic.
Czaslau, a handsome Town, with Between Prague and Dresden a
a laj^ sauare, and obelisk, in its food Road, twenty posts and a
centre ; the houses are chiefly - half in distance, has been recent^
white, and til&d at the top ; the made, through Strzedditk^ ScMctn,
ornaments of the belfries here, and Teinitz, Laun, Merschowitz, Top*
in Moravia, consist of five or six litz, Ormensa, Peterswald, and
spires ami a cupola, all covered Zehut^. and at Toplitz there is
with white metaL The Post- House an excellent Hotel, The Goldner
ttt Czaslau is a toleraUy good Ho> Schiffe, kept by a person called
tel : and here, the Au&or of this Mademoiselle Fani : but between
Work left, by accident, a valuable Toplitz and Dresden the road
brace of pistols ; which were im- passes over a tremendous hill, the
mediately sent after her. Donnersberg ; at the base of which
The seventh day's journey is to lies Culm, famous for the battle
BehmisMmid; through a vast fought there, when Van Daume
plain of com, interspersed with was taken. The Prtrssians hkve
towns ; among which are MoUin, erected a Monument to record this
Gdlin, and.Planian, where IVa- battle. Between Toplitz and Dres-
veUisrs usually dine ; and where the den the views are lovely. Peters-
Post-house is a good Hotd. wald is the last Town in the Impe«
The eighth day's journey is to rial dominions ; and the countrr
Prague ; througn a good road, from Prague thither abounds wiln
which traverses an immense plain, eocn, hops, and game. Beyond
wdl cultivated, and enriched with Peterswald the road passes through
towns and villages. Thi&ce is a luxuriant fields of corn to Dresden;
gradual descent, for several miks, and descends (with one exception)
mto Fttigue. almost the whole way. On ent^<«
This is one of the handsomest ing Saxony, Travellers find toler**
Cities in Europe, built in tiie Ita* ame Inns, neat villages, clean, and
Uan style, and famous for its Bridge : apparently well fed peasantry, no
its size, likewise, is considerable, beggars ; in short, the approach to
and its fortifications are strong.* the Metropolis announces the
The inhabitants, however, bear no wealtji of the Kingdom. The cos-
proportion to the eapaciousness of tume of the Saxon peasants re-
the Town, as they do not, accord* sembles that worn * in England
ing< to the best .computaticms, some centuries ago; and when
amount to ninety thoutsand. The spoken to in English, they fVe-
University of Prague has long quently understand it. Private
been celel»-atedi The Cathedral, carriages are not often stopped at
a &3ely situated Germ^p Gothic the Ga,te of the City, fcH* tne pur-
Structure, and the Church 0/ the pose of having trunks, ^cexamin*
(A) See ** Ap? siTMX. Italy."
428 DRESDEN. [Ch. XII.
ed : but Travellers are followed to are submitted to public view, but
their Hotel by a Custom-house likewise because there reigns
Officer, who, on being presented throughout this Town, a tranquil-
with a couple of florins, imme- lity peculiarly favourable to the
diately retires. Studious.
The distance from Vienna to The objects most worthy of aTra-
Dresden is computed to be about veller's notice are — The Royal RO'
three hundred English miles, and man Catholic Church, which con-
the expense of ferries and barriers, tains a celebrated Organ, by Sil-
for one carriage, about three Tus- bermann ; and a fine Picture of the
can sequins. Ascension, by Mengs~(the Belfry
The population of the latter of this Church is above three hun-
Town (the Capital of Saxony) has dred feet in height) — Tfie Picture
been supposed by some writers not Gallery — The Treasury , or Jewel
to exceed fifty thousand inhabit- Office — The Gallery of Antiquities
ants : but, judging fi-om its size, it — The Royal Libraries — and The
must contain a much more nume- Collection of Dresden Porcelain,
rous population. The architecture The Cabinet of Natural History,
of Dresden is light and elegant ;- and The antique Armoury, should
the streets are sffaight, wide, and likewise be visited, if Travellers
clean ; the squares spacious ; the have time to spare,
palaces, churches, and other public In order to gain admittance to
edifices, handsome, and the Bridge the Picture GaUeiy, the Treasury,
thrown over the Elbe, which di- the Gallery of Antiquities, and the
vides the old from the new build- Royal Libraries, it is requisite to
ings, is one of the finest in Europe, send, overnight, your name, coun-
This Metropolis is partitioned into try, and quality, to the respective
three parts, the Old Town, the Directors ; together with the num-
New Town, and Frederickstadt ; ber of persons you intend to bring,
and was once strongly defended and the hour at which you mean
by fortifications, now destroyed, to come. You may either go from
Here are several good Hotels : and nine till half-past ten in the mom-
private Lodgings maybe procured ing, or from half-past ten till twelve;
without difficulty. The enviipns from two till half-past three in the
of Dresden are rich, and beauti- afternoon, or from half-past three
^; and the Elbe, though not clear, till five. To the Director of the
is broad and magnificent. Luther- Picture Gallery each party pays
anism is the established religion of from four florins to one ducat, and
the country; but the Calvinists to the Sweeper half a florin; which
have public meeting houses ; and sum once given, you are at liberty
t.ie Sovereign, being a Roman Ca- to go without expense afterwards,
tholic, has one public Roman Ca- To the Master of the Jewel Office
tholic church. every party pays four florins, and
The inhabitants of Dresden are, to each of his servants half a florin ;
generally speaking, well condition- which sum once given, you are at
ed, and very- civil to Foreigners; liberty to go free of expense after-
who live here with comfort, at a wards. The Custode who shews
moderate expense: and Painters the Collection of Dresden Porce-.
may study with great advantage lain expects a ducat, provided the
at Dresden ; not only on account party he attends be large K
Qi the splendid pictures which Picture Gallery. This immense
(0 It is 8aid» that no fees' are now given at the Picture Gallery daring the Sammer
Al<mtbs,
Ch. XII.] DRESDEN. 429
collection, the. finest of its kind in Wife, by J. Holbein— a Child
Europe, contains Chefs-daeuvres^ borne away by an Eagle! This
excellently well preserved, of the picture, the work of Rembrandt,
best masters : so that it is scarce seems improperly called the rape
possible for any person to study of Ganymede— a Portrait of Rem-
the Dresden Gallery, without be- brandt, by himself ; and another of
coming a real Connoisseur. his Mother, weighing gold, likewise
Here are, in the Flemish School, by Rembrandt — Portrait of Salva-
Adonis and Venus — a Satyr and a tor Rosa, by himself-^Peasanta
Faun — Neptune calming a Tem- dancing, by Teniers— Portrait of
pest — Meleager presenting the Henry VIII, of England, by J.
j3oar*s head to Atalanta — and S. Holbein— a Girl with a lighted
Jerome meditating; all first-rate candle gathering grapes, by Gkrard
productions, by Rubens. Several Dow ! — a Head of N. Poussin, by
works by Netscher (particularly a himself — Moses found in the Nile,
Man seated, and writing,) which by Poussin— Rembrandt's Dausrh-
shew precisely how small pictures ter, by Rembrandt— a small Ma*
ought to be painted. Admirable donna and Child, by Albert Durer
works by Temers, Ostade, Ruys- — Fruit and Flowers, by A. Min*
daal, Wouvermans, Brughel, Ber- jon — a Landscape, by Berghem»
ghem, and Paul Potter. The An- and a Landscape with Cattle, by
nunciation — and the Judgnnent of Ruysdaal — our Saviour raising the
Paris, both by Vander Werf I!— < Dead, with other small but highly
and the Madonna with the Saviour finished Pictures, by Dieterich — a
in her arms, a little sick Boy, and Landscape, with Lions, by Rubens I
a Burgomaster and his Wife, by —a Landscape, with a forest and
Holbein!! v a hunted Stag, by Ruysdaal and
The Italian School contains, the Vander Velde!— Manoah and his
Madonna enthroned with the Sa- Wife sacrificing, and the Angel
viour, by Correggio, in his first ascending to Heaven, by Rem-
manner — the MaSonna enthroned brandt — the Repose in Egypt, by
with the Saviour, S. George, &c., Ferdinand Bol!— the Feast ot Aha-
by tiie same great master ! ! ! — his suerus, by Rembrandt — a Girl
Magdalene, a small recumbent standing at an open window and
figure,- said to be the most faultless reading a letter. School of Rem-»
picture ever painted! 1 1 — and the brandt— Narcissus and Nymphs»
Nativity, called, ** Correggio's by N. Poussin — ^the Martyrdom of
Night," and by many persons con- S. Erasmus, by ditto — a Landscape
sidered as the chef-aoeuvre of co- with Cattle, by Vander Velde — a
louring, though now injured by Cock and Heri endeavouring to
having been washed!!! — ^the Ma- oppose an Ea^le who has seized
donna, the Saviour, &c., called, one of their chickens, by Honde-
- Correggio's S. Sebastian" ! ! ! — koeter ! — a Landscape with a Shep«
and a Portrait, by Correggio, of his herd playing on his pipe, by Claude
Physician! — ^The Tribute Money, —a Landscape, by Berghem — a
by Titian, one of his finest pic- Battle by Wouvermans!— the Ma*
tures — and the Madonna, the Sa- donna and our Saviour, by Van-
viour. Pope Sixtus V, ^Cherubim, dyck!— several exquisitely finished
&c. attributed to Raphael ! ! Heads, by Denner and Seybold — a
Other celebrated Paintings in Philosopher reading, by Konink!—
the Flemish School are, Noah sa- a Banker conversing with a Pea-
erificing after having left the Ark, sant who has brought him money,
by N. Poussin— -Luther and his byQuintinMatsys! — aForest,Dogs^
4S» DKESSSI7.. [Ch. XIL
and Faleont , bj Vander Velde and nalian Feast, by Oarofolo — a youn^^
Paul Potter I---Joseph presenting Bacchus, bv Gruido-— the Assump*
his Father to Pharaoh, by Ferdi- tion, by Annibale Oaracci — S.
nand B<d~a head of SeyboM, by George and the Dragon, by Ra-
bimself— the Madonna, the Sa- phaef— an Eece Homo, by Guido — -'
Tiour, and S. Anne, by J.Van Eyk, Lot and his Daughters, by Guer-*
the reputed inventor of oil-colours cino — the Angel and Tobias, by
— S. Jerome penitent, by Vandyck Titian — Titian*s Mistress, by him-
—4 Tooth-Drawer, by G. Hon- self — the Head of our Saviour^
thorst — ^Venus seated, and Cupid by Annibale Caraoci — a Candle-
playing vrith a Dove, by Vander Light piece, by Rubens I — a HoHf
Wm! — a Banker weighing gold and Family, called, the Madonna witn
aWoman looking at him, by Quin- the Basin, by Giulio Romano — >
tin Matsys t— -Syrinx and Pan, by Loves dancing, and Venus above*
N . Poussin — ^N oah sacrificing after in the clouds, by Albano — ^two Pic**
the Deluge, and a Bacchanalian tures of Galat^ by ditto — ^the Fall
Scene, both by Poussin— a Stable, of tfie Angels, by Tintoretto— the
by Wouvermans — ^and the Idolatry good Samaritan, by Paolo Vero*
of Solomon, by Poussin. nese — a Madonna and Child, by
Other celebrated paintings, be- Schidone — ^the Portrait of Thomas
longing to the Italian ScImoI, are Parr, when above an hundrei years
8. Ceolia, &c. by Giulio Romano old, by Vandyck — and the Madon-
—a recumbent Magdalene, by P. ha and our Saviour in giorv, by
Battoni— Parnassus, by Tintoretto Ramenghi, called Bagnacavallo.
-—a Concert, by the same master— Cabinet of Drawings in Pcutd-^
the Resurrection of our Saviour, * Portrait of Raphad Mengs, by
bj Paolo Veronese — a Woman car- himself — of his Father, by the sama
ned off by a Man, at whose feet . —-and of Cupid) b^ the same ! —
> lies another Man wounded, by J. several other beautiful Drawings,
C. Procaccini— the Repose in and some small Paintings in ena«
Egypt, by TVevisani — Head of a mel. This Gallery is warm.
Man with a cap on, by Titian I — Treasury, or Jewel Office, The
Adam and Eve driven from Para- most striking thin^ here are—
dise, by Albano ! — Mars seated, by Second room — a Ship of ivory, and
Benvenuto Garofolo — Samson a Vase of the same, with Bassi*
combating the Philistines, by Giu- rilievif representing a Battle. Third
lio Romano — Herodias with the room — a Ctumney-piece ornament-
Head of S. John, by Leonardo da ed with all the most valuable pro-
Vinci — ^the Genius of Glory, by ductions of Saxony» namely, porce*
Annibale Caracci — ^the Repose in lain, diamonds, and other precious
Egypt, by I..odovico Caracci — ^the stones, pearls, &c Fourth room-r-
Madonna and our Saviour, by An- superb pieces of Plate, &c. Fifth
nibale Caracci— the Woman de- room — (fitted up with peculiar elfr*
tected in Adultery, by Tintoretto— - gance)fine Camei — SLSasso-rilievo
the same subject, by Bartolommeo on the shell of a Nautilus — another
Biscaino I — a recumbent Venus, by large Basso^rilievo rq)resenting a
Titian, and another b}r Guido— Youth travelling into foreign coun^*-
Peace, by Dosso Dossi— Justice, triesuponanUnbridledHorse; but,
by ditto — the Saviour in the Stable, having Virtue for his guide. Vice
with Angels adoring him, by Alba- flies before him. Sixth room —
no! — the Saviour crown^ with three piecesofEnamel, by Mengs-*
thorns and supported by an Angel, antique Enamel — Pearls represenU
by Annibale Caracci I — a Baccn^ ing men and women about, out
ek XII.} VOYAGE! DOWN THE ELBE. 4S1
finger high, tantmg which a Potter a Colleetioii of Dresden PoreeUmi,
is much admired. Seventh room-^ from its commencement, by J. F.
a Pyramid of precions stones, an- Bottcher, in 1701, to the present
tique Camei, ^c, in the centre of period. The inventor Of this Por-
which is the Head of Augustus II ; celain was an apothecary's man at
and at the foot of the Pyramid ore BerUn ; and finding himself sua*
small enamelled Figures, in the pected of being able to make gold*
respective dresses of the several he thought it prudent to retii^ to
European nations. This n3rramid Dresden ; wh^, bone ordered to
is said to have cost a nundred prepare a powder for the transmu^
thousand crowns. Eighth room— tation of metals, he happened* in
an Onyx, esteemed the largest in the course of his studies on this
the known world — ^the Great Mo* occasion, to discover the art of
gul seated on his Throne, and cele-* making. Dresden Porcelain. Thi
brating his . Birth-day, a superb foom# in which it is kept are damp
toy — an Egyptian Temple, likewise 4md cold,
a superb toy — ^the Jewels of the There are two theatres at Dresden.
Crown; being a daszling collection The distance firom this City to
of fine brilliants— a large and beau" Berlin is about one hundred and
tifUl green Diamond, said to be fifty English miles : but the road
unique, with several large red, and being sandy to excess, and in other
yellow Diamonds. The rooms are respects bad. Travellers who fisel
paved with marble, and very cold, no particular wish to see Berlin,
Cabinet of antique Sculpture, usually go down the Elbe to Ham*
The most striking things here are burgh : a voyage accomplished in
- — a young Bacchus eating grapes five or six days, providea the wind
- — Meleager — one of the Sons of be fair ; and in seven or ei^t, if it
Niobe, dead — an Etruscan Statue be contrary ; even though passen-
of Minerva, the drapery of which gers stipulate to cast an&or for a
is curious — a Basso-rilievo of few hours every night, in order t«
Artemisia, in jasper, attributed to avoid the noise made by the water-
Lysippus — Statues of two female men, during their progress. The
Fauns — iSsculapius and Venus, Elbe is a remarkably safe Riv«*
the head of the first particularly between Dresden and Hamburgh ;
fine — Statues of Vestals, found thoueh, in Some parts, so shallow
in Herculaneum by the Prince that Targe boats are apt to touch
d*E!beuf, and by mr the finest ground : but this does no harm^ as
things in this coUection ; the dra- the bottom is a soft sand. For the
pery being wonderfiilly executed ! ! ! hire of an excellent Boat with three
—a Fragment of a Gladiator or cabins, four beds, (each having two
Wrestler, going to anoint himself, mattresses) curtains to all the
attributed to Phidias I — an Etrus- cabin- windows, a place behind, for
can Altar — a Grecian Altar, with men-servants, and a place before.
Niches in it— a Sarcophagus, dis- for baggage, the sum demanded
playing a Dog. Here are other is about two hundred dollars of
valuable pieces of sculpture; but. Saxony*;, the Master of the Boat
as most of them have oeen muti- finding beds, fuel, cooking-uten-
lated and ill restored, artists onl^ sils, knives, forks, spoons, glasses,
can appreciate their merits. Thts cups and saucers, plates anddishes.
Cabinet is cold. and likewise paving all the Port
Under the apartments which con- Duties to the Irinces whose ter-
tain the above named antiquities is ritories are passed during the voy.
(k) The Author of this Wozk pftid tw» hwdrtd H&d ftttjr-five <l«U»n, w txtravif aat price.
431 HAMBXTRGK. ' [CKXH.
a^, and maintaining binisdf and is I>ain6ifr^,la]^ger than the others^
four watermen. A Boat sufficient- and inhabited by a robust race of
1^ lan^e to accommodate a small people, with a great appearance of
family may be hired for one hun- poverty.
dred and twenly-five dollars of The Elbe becomes immensely
Saxony. Travellers usually take broad as it approaches Hambui^,
l>ottlea beer, tea, coffee, and su- which City, supposed to contain
f^ar^ from Dresden; and provide an hundred and twenty thousand
themselves with bread, meat, fish, inhabitants, is built somewhat in
ve^tables, egsrs, milk, butter, and the style of an old English coun-
wine, at the viUa&nes on the banks try town. The streets are straight,
of the Elbe. These banks are and planted with trees close to the
finely wooded ; and the most re- houses ; the Quay a})ounds with
markable Towns within view of the natives of eveiy nation ; the Port
River are, Meissen, where the is crowded with ships; and the'
Dresden Porcelain is made; and whole City exhibits an appear*
where the Cathedral merits notice ; ance of being the world*s exdian^.
Torgam, where there is a covered Here are no duties to pay at me
bridge over the Elbe ; (the country Custom-house. The Hotels at
fi-om Dresden hither abounds with Hamburgh are neither good nor
vineyards^;) Wittemberg, SLhand- cheap. Private Lodgings maybe
some Town, which contains a obtained ; though, like &e Hotels,
University, and is famous -for hav- they are bad and dear,
ing been the abode of Luther, Large numbers of Storks inha-
whose Tomb is in the Church be- bit the banks of the Elbe, and the
longing to the Castle" : here, like- Town of Hamburgh ; and, what is
wise, is a Bridge thrown over the remarkable, these birds are held in
Elbe ; and here provisions of aU such veneration by the common
kinds, beer, and wine, may be pur- people, that they would probably
chased better and cheaper than in murder any foreigner who at-
any other place between Dresden ' tempted shooting a stork,
ana Hamburgh ; Coswick, rather The filial piety of this fowl has
a large Town, not far from which lon^ been celebrated ; and its sa-
are the celebrated Gardens of Ver- gacity in other instances seems
litzen; and by landing at a place equally extraordinary, judging from
where the boatmen pay a tax, and the following circumstance. A
walking to another place where wild stork was brought by a farmer
they likewise pay a tax. Travellers into his pouhry-yard, to be the
may see these Gardens witliout companion of a tame one he had
delaying their voyage ; AT^^i^^z^r^, long kept there; but the tame
a large and strongly fortified City, stork, disliking the idea of a rival,
belonging to Prussia ; wha'e, how- fell upon the stranger, and besM:
ever, strangers cannot land with- him so unmercifully that he was
out having their passports examin- compelled to take wing, and with
ed ; and where the Masters of some difficulty got away. About
boats going down the Elbe are four months afterwards, however,
frequently detained a considerable he returned to the poultry-yard,
time, in order to pay the Port Du- recovered of his wounds, and at-
tics. Beyond this City lie several tended by three other storks, who
Hanoverian Villages; among which no sooner alighted than tliey fell
(0 or all the excellent wines in this neigh' sophy, and aftenrards theologT*, in the Unireiw
bourhood, that of Torgau is deemed the besL sity founded by Frederick Elector of Saxony,
<m) Lather va« chosen firit to teach philo* at Vitttmberf .
Ch. XII.] STEAM-PACKET, <f.tf.— BERLIN. 433
upon the tame stork and killed Torgau, Pretsche, Wittemberg,
him. Kropstadt, Treuenbritzen, Belitz,
A Steam Packet goes from Lon- and Potsdam, to Berlin; going,
don to Hamburgh, and vice versciy however, from Kropstadt through
during the latter part of Spring, Jutterbock to Treuenbritzen. The
the whole Summer, and part of number of Posts from Dresden to
Autumn : and the price paid by a Berlin, by this road, is thirty and a
Chief Cabin Passenger is 9/.— by half*. The Hotel at Meissen (The
a Fore Cabin Passenger, 7/. — for SunJ, those at Oschatz, Torgau,
a four-wheel Carriage, 10/. — for a and Pretsche; The Wein Traube^
two-wheel Carriage, 6/. 6*. — and and Tfie Hotel de Londres, at Wit-
for Horses, each, 8/. 8*. ' temberg ; and The Einsiedler, and
Passage-boats likewise go down The Stadt Bom, at Potsdam, all
the Elbe, from Hamburgh to Cux- afford tolerable accommodations at
haven: and the hire of one of the present moment, 1827: and
these vessels, containing beds, and the existing laws, with respect
afire-place, and sufficiently large to Innkeepers, and Post-horses,
to accommodate from six to eight throughout Prussia, are excellent,
persons, is about seventy marks ; This road presents no objects par-
the Watermen finding their own ticularly . interesting, which have
provisions. The time of embarka- not been already mentioned, till it
tion depends upon the tide ; and reaches Potsdam ; a Town con-
the voyage usually occupies about taining near thirty thousand inha-
eighteen nours". bitants: and its Long Bridge —
Every Cabin, or Whole Passenger, Church dedicated to the Holy Ghost
pays for going from Cuxhaven — Church o/S, Nicholas — Church
to Harwich in a Post- Office frequented by the Court, and Gar-
packet ;^.5 5 rison — Roman Catholic Church,
Every Half- Passenger 3 embellished by the Paintings of
Every four-wheeled carriage (the Pesne — and the New Palace, and
charge for shipping it not inclu- Gardens, the former of which con-
sive) 8 tains the Private Library of Frede-
FemaJe Servants pay as Whole rick the Great, are usually visited
Passengers ; — Children, under six by Travellers. This splendid Pa-
years, as Half Passengers;— and lace was built immediately after
above that age as Whole Passen- the famous seven years' war.
gers. Berlin, the Metropolis of Prus-
Harwich packets sail to Cuxha- sia, and one of the most magnifi-
ven every Wednesday and Satur- cent Cities in Germany, is watered
day, about two o'clock in the after- by the Spree ; and supposed to con-
noon, weather permitting ; and tain, comprising its garrison, two
return twice a week, if possible. hundred and twenty thousand in-
Cuxhaven, though a small town, habitants. Some of the olyects best
contains clean Inns. worth notice here are. The Chd-
Travellers who wish to go from teauRoyal—Monbijou — The Royal
Dresden, by way of Berlin, to Ham- Stables — The Arsenal, considered
burgh, should take the road through the finest Building of its kind in
Meissen, Klappendorf, Oschatz, Europe : its Court contains twenty-
(«) Pnblic Boats conrej passengers and and foor skillings — ^and by Servants four
Ingfcafire, from Hamburgh to Cuxhaven, every marks and twelve skillings, each.
ToBsday and Friday, weather permitting. (o) See this Route under, •♦ Appendix.
The price paid by a Cabin Passenger is fifteen Italy."
marks— by a Steerage Passenger eleven marks
2f
434
BERLIN.
[Ch. XII.
one Masks, representing Death;
and executed by Schluter: the
Statue of Frederick I, is by Schlu-
ter and Jacobi. — The New Theatre ^
which, for the classical beauty of its
exterior, and the convenience and
splendor of its interior, and mag-
luficent Concert Room annexed,
may vie with the most celebrated
Theatres in Europe p — The Royal
Library y built after the design of
Frederick H—The Buildings of
the Royal Academy-'— -The Churches
in the Place de Gens-d'armes—
The H6tel de Viller-The Bank-—
The Governor's Palace — VHdtel
des Cadets — fHdtel des InvaUdes
'—The Palaces of Prince Henry
•^the Prince Royal, &c. — The
Cathedral ::- The Church of S.
Hedewige — The Church belonging
to the Garrison, and containing
four Pictures, by Rhode, which
represent the Death of four cele-
brated Prussian Warriors— TA^
Church of S, Peter—The Church
of S. Mary and its Gothic Tower
— The Church of S, Nicholas,
remarkable for its antiquity, Paint-
ings, and Sculpture ; and likewise
for the Monument of Puffendorff
— The Churches of S. Sophia and
8, Dorothy; the latter of which
contains the Monument of Count
de Mark — The ParocfUal Church
— The Place de Guillaume, embel-
lished with Statues — The colossal
Equestrian Statue of the Elector,
Frederick'TViUiam, considered as
the Chef'dceuvre of Schluter—7%«
Pont - Royal — The magnificent
Brandenburgh-Gate, built after
the model of the IVopylaeum, at
Athens — The Manufacture of Por-
celain, which is superb — ^and The
Iron Foundery.
Clubs, called Les Resources, and
the Fishery at Stralau, on the
twenty-fourth of August, serve to
diversify the amusements of this
City, in which there are two Thea^
tres, besides that already men-
tioned. ^
The principal Promenades are,
under the Lime-trees — ^the Place
de Guillaume — the Place de Do-
ehnhof — the Pare — ^the Cercle —
Bellevue — the Gardens of the
Royal School — and the Coffee and
Lemonade Gardens.
Berlin cannot boast of many
good Hotels ; but that chiefly fre*
quented by British Travellers, The
Stadt Rom, contains excellent*
though high-priced apartments 4
other charges however are mo-
derate ; and the Landlord ifl
particularly anxious to oblige. A
Tariff, exhibiting the prices at
these Hotels, (which prices are
fixed by Government,) is open to
the inspection of every Traveller.
Ready-furnished Lodgings may be
obtained at Berlin ; and are usually
advertised in the Newspaper ; but
for those in the best part of the
Town a considerable rent is de-
manded. The wages of a Valet-
de-place are one Thaler per day.
The charge for a Voiture de Re-
mise is from two to three crowns
per day, according to its goodness,
and the price of provender. The
Fare in a Hackney Coach is re-
gulated by the length of the drive.
The Environs of Berlin contain
several objects worth notice; and
especially Sans Sotuci, and its Gar-
dens: the latter display a series
of Terraces, with the choicest
flowers, shrubs, and orange-lrees :
the former is celebrated for its
splendid Picture Gallery, superbly
gilt, embellished with marble Co-
lumns of immense value, and en-
riched by a first-rate collection of
Paintings; among which are: lo
and Jupiter — ^and the Progress of
Love — both from the Orleans Gal-
lery, and both by Correggio ; but
(l>) The price of a seat in the Pit at this Theatre is sixteen Gate Qroschen; sad Cbeie
seats are particularly commodious.
Ch. XII.] BERLIN. 435
not pleasing ; because indelicate— The Marble Palace, on the Lake,
Jacob blessing Isaac, by Vandyck also merits notice : and persons
— an Ecce llomo, by Raphael — fond of Water Parties, may go, in
•Moses (a Sketch) by Rembrandt — boats, to Treptow Charlottenourg,
Roman Filial Piety, by Guercino &c.
— ^the four Evangelists, by Van- From Berlin to Hamburgh the
dyck— Venus attired by the Graces distance is sixteen Posts and three
— and the Judgement of Paris; quarters**,
both by Rubens--&c. &c.
(s) See <* Appendix. Ita.lt. Routx pbom Dbisdsit tbbovoh Bkblxx to
Hambuaoh."
2 f2
APPENDIX;
Chapter I.
CLIMATES— PASSPORTS, Sfc.
Climate»— Invalids cauti(»ed against expoaing themselves to the influence of the tun— Newly-
built houses, and houses not built on arches, unwholesome— Ground-floors healthy only la
summer— Best winter situation for Invalids— Eligible situations during other seasons oi the
year— Naples and Lisbon liable to destructive vicissitudes of weather- Barcelona, Valencia,
and Alicant, recommended during winter— Passports— other Requisites for Travellers, oa
leaving England— Means of preserving health during a long journey— Bargains with Inn-
keepers, dec.
CLiidAT£S OP THE coNTiKENTt removed; and the consequent increase
of population has not only banished
Although several of the Climates grass from the streets, but dispensed
of the European Continent have been cheerfulness and health throughout
described in the foregoing pages, it this elegant City. It seems requisite,
may be convenient toTravellers to see however, to give Invalids, who pur-
the most eligible combined, as follows, pose residinghere, one caution, namely,
under one head. never to sit, stand, nor walk in the
Nice, in times past, was recom- sun, without being defended by a para-
mended as an excellent winter resi- sol ; and always to prefer walking on
dence for persons afflicted with pul- the shady side of a street*. Newly-
mouary diseases: but experience has built houses should be avoided here,
proved that the fervid warmth of the and in every other part of Italy and
sun, and the piercing veiit de bise. Magna Grseda; as it is, generally
which continually combat with each speaking, five years before new walls
other at Nice, are destructive to per- become perfectly dr^. Houses, not built
sons who, owing to weak lungs, or any on arches, should likewise be avoided ;
other circumstance, cannot support and ground - floors, during winter,
sudden and frequent vicissitudes from spring, and autumn, are unwhole-
heat to cold. some, though healthy in summer.
Massa, in point of climate, is the That side of the Pisa Quay, called La
counterpart of Nice ; Genoa, although parte di mezzo-giomo^ is, as already
preferable both to Nice and JVIassa, mentioned, the best winter situation
as a winter residence, is considerably for Invalids, because warmer and less
colder, and more subject to sudden damp than any other ; for, although
changes of temperature, than some of the Climate is uniformly soft (owing
the southern cities of Italy ; but Pisa, to mountains which operate as a screen
as already mentioned, is one of the from every wind, except sea-breezes),
best winter climates of Europe, and it is sometimes complained of for being
ought, in pulmonary complaints, to moist and wanting elasticity ; but this
be decidedly preferred to every other very want frequently proves beneficial
city of Italy, from the commencement to weak lungs ; and, judging from ex-
of October till the end of April. The perience, the lives of many Consump.
marshy ground and standing water tive Persons might be saved, were they
about Pisa formerly rendered the air sent by sea to Leghorn t, advised to
unwholesome : but this evil is now winter at Pisa, cautioned against travel-
- Persons, who are under the necessity of also a most salutary application in consump-
expoeing themselves to the influence of the sun tive cases.
in warm climates, oueht to line the crowns of t Rates of Passengers by the Meditenanean
their hats wiUi writing-paper, several times Packets, which sail from Falmouth,
doubled: and likewise to sponge themselves From Falmouth to Gibraltar, Cabin-Pas-
daUy with vin^ar : indeed, this wash is not senger, 38/.— Steerage-Passenger, 32/.
only a preservative against those fevers which Do. Malta, Cabin-Passenger, 59/fSteerage-
result uom hot W^UmTi or Ma!F aria, but Passenger, 33/« Do»
438
APPENDIX.
[Ch.I.
ling mndi by land; and, above all
things, interdicted £ram crotsing the
Apennine and Alps, which TrtvtUers
often do, in order to spend the summer-
months in Switzerland, one of the most
unequal Climates of Europe. From
the beginning of May till midsummer,
the Baths of Pisa and the City of
Florence are sufficiently cool to be
wholesome ; and djiring the height of
summer, the spacious Villas situated
on the HHUi beneath Fiesole, are sel-
dom intensely warm, because fre**
juently Ainned by refreshing breeses
from noon till Sunset. Here, howerer,
Fahrenheit*s thermometer often rises
to 85, and sometimes higher. A more
temperate summer climate may be
found at the Baths of Lucca, where
the thermometer rarely rises above 78*
The Town of Carrara, likewise^ is an
eligible summer abode, owing to the
loftiness of its position, and its vici-
nity to the sea. Florence, as already
mentioned, is, during the height of
fumttier, oppressively not ; in autumn
temperate 9 out in winter foggy and
cold. BioiA, from being built on an
eminence, and therefore o^en visited
by refreshing bfeezes, is considered
lis a salubrious summer residence ;
but, owing to that reflected heat
from which no large city can be ex.
empt, it is often oppressively hot
during the months of July and Au-
gust, tiome, from the end of October
till the end of April, is, when the
lungs are not ulcerated, even a better
Climate, in consumptive cases, than
t^isa t and at all seasons that part of
ilome not atfiected by MaP aria^ is
particularly congenial to Old Persons ;
msomiich that there are not, perhaps,
half so many instances of longevity,
Without infirmities, in any other popu-
lous city of Europe*. Naples, from
the quantity of sulphur with which its
atmosphere is impregnated, cannot be
a good situation in all st^lges of a de-
cline : at Naples, likewise, the wind
lA frequently strong and piercing;
apd the continual vicissitudes from
heat to cold, which are common here
during winter and spring, render the
00. MeMlta, dABbk-PkawBger» eil.-^te«r.
Stfe-Passenger, 34^ . , .
PuKttgSa provide ttiOt own bedding i sad
ftmale aervints pay as OaMa^Pliaiengen.
^Paaett lafl from Filiiieiitli forlhs Medi.
•llitacMi, every thiid TvMday thitmgMat Ihs
Climate, at those seasons, a bad one.
But the neighbouring Piano di Sor-
rtnto possesses a Climate which is ex-
cellent during the whole year; and
has, consequently, been mentioned at
large in the foregoing account of that
beautiful District ; where the thermo-
fneter seldom, if ever, rises above 77)
in the months of July and August,
when Its usual h^ht is from 74 to
76 ; and where, during winter, gene-
rally speaking, it is always aboi^e tetti<«
perate in the day, and very little lower
in the night But the perfection of
the Sorrentine Climate consists in the
unvariable coolness of the nights dur-
ing summer; at which period, the
thermometer, immediately after snii-
set, sinks gradually to 64, and often
to 62, rising again with the sun next
day. Invalids, therefore, who visit
the Continent merely to try the effect
of Climate, should pitch their tent in
that part of the Town of Sorrento, or
its Piano, which is most contiguous to
the Bay of Naples. It would, how.
ever, be uncancud not to subjoin, that
the Sorrentine shore, during the ver-
nal and autumnal equinox, is, like
other countries near the sea, visited
by storms; but they are not suffi.
aently violent to injure the orange-
trees ; which, loaded with golden fruit
during the months of November, De-
cember, and January, imite with the
evergreen olives, ilexes, and pines^
to give this favoured spot the sem-
blance of perpetual spring.
The Piano di Sorrento, Siena, and
the Lucca Baths, are usually exempt
from Musquitoes, a serious torment at
Florence, Naples, and in several other
cities of the Continent, during the
tnonths of July, August, and Sep*
tember.
The climate of Northern Italy la
cold during winter, and at other sea*
sons liable to sudden and unwhole-
some changes. Lisbon, also, is subject
to these destructive vicissitudes of
weather ; insomuch that but few con-
sumptive Invalids have recovered the
blessing of health from visiting the
banks of the Tagua. Spain, as a place
year, tNMther nermltting.
- ThelnliabiUntsofR(mie,bo#ihrerittsiiaily
Ad into the country during thfc motith of Oet«>-
Ber; or tate rety sttong ezerciae te ptemt^
OietnadTes flrom the Ulwua ftrer MmlBik la
IftedtydttitogtiMttpttM. '^
Ch. I] PASSPORTS. 4d»
of residence, ifl, on some accounts, ob- port : and now, indeed, Passports are
jectionable ; because the water and called for, and strictly examined at all
prorisions (fruit and other vegetables the confines, and likewise in every
excepted) are not, generally speaking, large Town on the. Continent,
good in that country ; but, with re- British Subjects travelling through
spect to Climate, Barcelona, Valencia, France to Italy, with French Pass-
and Alicant are, during winter, pre- ports, find it requisite to go by way of
ferable even to Pisa •. Paris, in order to reclaim, at the Pass.
port Office there {Prefecture de Police)
PASSPORTS. these Passports, which are taken from
them at the Frontier and sent to the
Travellers who intend going from Metropolis ; they having a provisionsd
London through France to Italy, and Passport instead. It is necessary that
do not regard the expense of purchas- each reclaimed Passport should be car-
ing a Passport from the BritishSecre- ried firistto the British Ambassador at
tary of Staters Office, may, by making Paris for his signature ; next to the
this purchase, obtain the signatures of Sardinian Ambassado^ ; next to the
the French, the Austrian, and the Pope's Nunzio, provided the Traveller
Sardinian Ambassador ; and thereby be going to Rome ; next to the Aus-
avoid the trouble and detention, with trian Ambassador ; then once more to
respect to Passports, which frequently the Prefecture de Police ; and lastly,
occurs at Paris : as a Traveller, thus to the Office of the Ministre dea af"
provided, is authorised to direct the fairee itranglree ; where ten francs
Police Office, either at Calais or Bou- are paid for the official seal. The
logne, or any other French Port where Prifeeture de Police^ and the Office of
he may land, to forward his Passport the Ministre dee affaires etrangires^
to the last Custom-house in his road are open from nine in the morning till
through France : he is also authorised four : but the signature of the British
to demand a provisional Passport ; on Ambassador can only be obtained from
shewing which, at the Pont-de-Beau- eleven in the morning till one.
voisin, or any other Frontier Custom- It is necessary for persons who tra-
house whither he may have ordered vel with a British Secretary of State's
his original Passport to be sent, he Passport, if they are going to Rome,
receives that Passport again, and is to obtain the signature of the Pope's
thereby enabled to enter Italy. But Nunzio at Turin, Milan, or Florence s
the Austrian Ambassador in London and previous to leaving Rome for
will sign no Passport for a British Naples, it is requisite that British
Subject, unless it be issued from the Subjects should have their Passports
Secretary of State's Office ; and, with- countersigned by the British Consul
out his signature, the aforesaid Plan General at Rome, the Police, and the
cannot be adopted. Persons adopting Neapolitan Ambassador,
this plan have no trouble respecting Passports originally granted by the
their pi-ovisional Passports at Paris, French Ambassador in London must
except that of getting them properly be countersigned by the French Am-
signed at the Police Office there. bassador resident at Rome, previous
Travellers who wish to avoid ex- to their presentation to the Neapolitan
pense, should apply for Passports to Ambassador for his signature,
the French Ambassador in London ; On returning from Naples through
at whose house they are obtained Rome to England, British Travellers
gratis, a trifling present to the Porter must have Passports from their own
excepted. British Subjects cannot Ambassador at Naples, coimtersigned
enter France without Passports from by the Police, and by the Roman
a French Minister ; neither can Post- Nunzio. It is likewise necessar}- to
masters at Paris, nor within forty-five have a Passport from the Neapolitan
miles of that City, supply a Foreigner Minister for foi%ign affairs ; which
with horses, unless he have a Pass- Passport is in itself sufficient between
- Persons who wish to preserve healthy either keep themselves warm by means of additional
Ip Portugal, Spain, Southern Italy, or Magna clethiDg latber than fires.
Grecia> during winter, should endeavour to
440 APPENDIX, [Ch. I.
Naples and Terradna, but no further. Hammersley and Co., Pall-Mail, are
At Rome the British Ambassador's advantageous to Travellers ; because
Passport must be countersigned by the payable at sight in all the principal
British Consul General ; by the Police ; Cities of Europe ; and likewise exempt
by the Ambassador of Austria and from the deduction of one per cent, to
Tuscany; by the Sardinian Ambas- which common letters of credit are
sador, or Consul General ; and by the subject. Letters of Recommendation
French Ambassador. At the first to all the British Ministers on the
French Custom-house, en route^ this Continent aie also highly advanta-
Passport is forwarded to Paris, and a geous. Letters to respectable Fo-
provisional one given to the Traveller ; reigners are useful ; and frequently
who, on arriving at Paris, must send guard Travellers from imposition,
this provisional paper to the Passport The English complain of being pil.
Office (Prefecture de Police)^ in order laged in foreign countries : but if they
to obtain the original Passport; which, would procure recommendations to
on being recovered, must go to the men of respectability, instead of trust-
British Ambassador for his signature ; ing to Couriers and Valets-de^place,
and lastly, the Traveller must take it they might find themselves much less
again to the Passport Office, where imposed upon. The aforesaid class of
the business is immediately finished. Domestics are in the habit of obtaining
Previous to going from Florence to long-established perquisites ; so long
Rome, it is advisable for British established as to have become, in their
Subjects, provided they travel in their opinion, a right. Thus, if a Vakt'Clem
own carriage, to apply to the British place hire your lodging, he receives
Consul General at Rome for a Lascia (from the landlord) a certain stipend
passare for Ponte-Centino, the Fron- during your stay ; and this sum never
tier Custom-house of the Ecclesiastical fails to be added on to your rent : if
State, and another for the Porto del he hire your carriage, he receives a
Popolo at Rome : and it is likewise considerable fee from the job-man ;
advisable for British Subjects who tra- while you pay dearer in consequence :
vel in their own carriage to apply to nay, every artist or mechanic you em-
the British Consul General at Rome, ploy, and every article you purchase,
previous to their return to that City, is, generally speaking, taxed, either by
for a iMscia passare for Terracina, your Valet -de-place^ or your Courier,
(which Town contains a Frontier Ro- Persons who go to Italy by sea, cannot,
man Custom-house,) and another for however, require this latter description
the Porta di S. Giovanni at Rome. of Attendant : and persons who go by
Travellers not thus provided, are land, in their own carriage, provided
driven, on arriving at Rome, to the they travel en voiturier^ may supply
Custom-house, where their luggage is the want of a Courier, by having in
examined ; and, on quitting Naples their suite an active intelligent Eng.
for Rome, they must either allow their lish Man-servant, who understands
trunks to be searched at Terracina, or how to grease and chain wheels, and
deposit four piastres for having them likewise how to load and take care of
plumbed. These four piastres, how- English carriages,
ever, are returned at Rome. The following articles are useful to
A Lascia passare is never granted Travellers in general ; and some of
to persons who travel in public car- them particularly needful to Invalids,
riages. Leather sheets, made of sheep-skin.
It has lately been found convenient or doe-skin — pillows ^blankets— cali.
for Travellers going from Rome to co sheets_pillow-cases — a travelling
Florence, to have a Lascia passare for chamber-lock — (these locks may always
Ponte-Centino. be met with in London ; and are easily
fixed upon any door in less than five
OTHER BEQUisiTES FOR minutes) — Bramah-locks for writing-
TRAVELLERS. dcsks and coach-seats — a tinder-box
^ », and matches — a small lantern— towels.
Circular Exchange-Notes, from Her- table-cloths and napkins, strong but
lies and Co., St. James's-Street, or not fine— pistols— a pocket-knife to
Ch. I.]
REQUISITES FOR TRAVELLERS.
441
eat with-— table-knires— a carving-
knife and fork — a silver tea-pot — or a
block-tin tea>kettle, tea-pot, tea, and
sugar-canister, the three last so made
as to fit into the kettle — pen-knives
— pens — razors, straps, and hone^«
needles, thread, tape, worsted, and
pins — gauze-worsted stockings-lilan.
nel — double-soled shoes and boots, and
elastic soles ; which are particularly
needful, in order to resist the chill of
brick and marble floors — dogs, called
Paraboues ; which are to be purchased
of the Patentee, Davis, Tottenham-
Court-Road, No. 229 — warm pelisses,
great-coats and travelling-caps — The
London and Edinburgh Dispensary ;
or the Universal Dispensary, by Reece
—a thermometer — a medicinc-cbest,
with scales, weights, an ounce, and
half -ounce, measure for liquids — a glass
pestle and mortar — Shuttleworth*s
drop-measure, an article of great im-
portance ; as the practice of adminis-
tering active fluids by drops is danger-
ously inaccurate — tooth and hair-
brushes—Jameses powder — bark — sal-
volatile — sulphuric-acid — pure opium
— liquid laudanum — ipecacuanha —
emetic tartar — prepared calomel — di-
luted vitriolic acid — essential oil of
lavender — spirit of lavender — sweet
spirit of nitre — antimonial wine —
supercarbonated kali — court-plaster
and lint *. A strong English carriage,
hung rather low, with well-seasoned
corded jack springs, iron axletrees, and
sous-soupentes of rope covered with
leather -j- — strong wheels — an ti -attri-
tion grease j: — strong pole-pieces —
two drag-chains, with very strong iron
shoes ; and another drag made of lea-
ther § — a box containing extra linch-
pins, tools, nails, bolts, Ac. ; for repair-
ing, mounting, and dismounting a
carriage — this box should be made in
the shape of a trunk, padlocked, and
slung to the hind.axletree — one well,
if the carriage be crane-necked ; two,
if it be not — a sword-case — a very light
imperial—two moderate-sized trunks,
the larger to go before^-a patent chain
and padlock for every outside package
^amps, and a stock of candles fitted
to them — a barouche-seat, and a very
light leather hat-box, or a wicker
basket with an oil-skin cover sus-
pended under it. The bottom of the
carriage should be pitched on the out-
side ; the blinds should be made to bolt
securely within-side ; and the doors to
lock. A second-hand carriage, in good
condition, is preferable to a new one ;
crane, necks are unnecessary 1 1 . Wheels
made for travelling on the Continent
should not have patent boxes : mail-
coach, or common brass boxes, answer
best. In those parts of Germany where
the roads are bad, it is advisable to cord
the wheels of travelling-carriages ; and
the mode of doing this efiectually is,
to attach the cords to iron cramps
fixed on the tire ; afterwards fastening
them round each nave. Every trunk
ought to have a cradle ; that is, some
flat smooth pieces of oak, in length the
same as the inside of the trunk, about
two inches and a half wide, nearly half
an inch thick, and crossed-barred by,
and quilted into, the kind of material
used for saddle-girths ; a distance of
three inches being left between each
piece of wood. This cradle should be
strapped very tight upon the top of
the trunk (after it has been packed)
by means of straps and buckles fasten-
ed to its bottom : and thus the contents
can never be moved, by jolts, from the
situation in which they were originally
placed. Every trunk should have
an outside- cover of strong sail-cloth
painted.
Persons who travel with their own
sheets, pillows, and blankets, should
double them up of a convenient size,
and then place them in their carriage,
by way of cushions, having red leather
cases as envelopes.
Ten drops of essential oil of laven-
der, distributed about a bed, will drive
- Families, who design to ipend any length leather-strap, which careful drivers always put
of time on the Continent, should liliewise pro- on at the same time with the shoe, lieeps the
vide themselves with an ironing-cloth
t SotU'toupentes are not necessary unless a
carriage be heavy laden, and ils springs wealc.
i TnLs useful article may now be purchased
at Paris, Florence, and Naples ; though not so
cheap as in London, at No. 40, Charing-Cross.
S On descending steep hills, especially when
wheel dragged, and prevents danger. A strap,
with a proper fastening, is more secure than a
hook.
I Carriages without perches, invented by
Elliot aud Holbrook, Westminster-Road, are
convenient on the Continent.
Savage, in Queen-Street, Long Acre, fits up
the road is rougn, a shoe may be forced off travelUng carriages remarkably well; charges
ttofa the tire of a wheel ; and in this esse the reasonaDiy, and Is a very good coachraaker«
44d APPEl<a>IX. [Ch.IL
atwsj fleas i and fire drops of sulpharic bargaixui of overy detcri|>ti0A should be
Add, put into a large decanter of bad made in the currency of the country,
water, will make the noscious particles and without the intervention of an
deposit themselves at the bottom, and Occasional Servant. It is especially
render the water wholesome $ twenty needful to observe this rule in treaties
drops of diluted vitriolic acid produces with Voiturins.
the same effect*. The most profitable money Travel-*
Persons who wish to preserve health, lers can take from London to Paris
during a long journey, should avoid and northern Italy, is Napoleons ; aa
sitting many hours together in a car* they pass current for their full value
rlage; by alighting and walking on^ in both countries; neither does any
wUle their horses are changed, pro- loss accrue from carrying them into
Vided they travel post : and by walking southern Italy.
up the ascents, provided they travel en Persons who are going from London
boiturier ,' and persons who get wetted to the Continent, and wish, previous
through, should take off- their clothes to their departure, to exchange Bank
as soon as possible ; rub themselves Notes for Napoleons, may be provided
with Eau de Cologne^ and then put on with the latter, at a few hours* notice,
dry warm linen. by Thomas, No. 103, Bank Buildings,
Travellers should never fail, before Comhill ; and likewise by Solomon,
they enter an Inn upon the Continent, New Street, Covent Garden ; and
to make a strict bargain with the Land- Smart, No. dS, Prince's Street, Leices*
lord, relative to their expenses; and ter Square.
Chaptee II.
FRANCE.
fitesm-Packet f^om London to Calai»— Other Steam-Poekets from J)ovei' to Calais, dec— Vessel
firom Plymouth to Bordeaux — Diligence from Loudon to Paris — D^ean and Emei^ Voiturins— >
Dover, best inn— Calais, best inns — Expense of hiring carriages — Tax upon Englisn carriages —
Sealed letters — Money of France — Expense attendant upon traveling on the Continent —
Excursion from Southampton to Guernsey, S. Malo, Nantex, Tours, and Orleans — Price of
Post-horses, 4'<^.— Water-Diligence — ^Public carriages— Canal of Languedoc— Messagerie k
Cheval— Distance from Calais to Paris through Amiens — Ditto throu^ Beauvais — Distance
from Ostend to Paris — ^from Dieppe to Paris — from Havre to Paru — Route from Calais
through Amiens to Paris— Ditto from Calais through Beauvais to Paris — Ditto from Ostend
through Lille to Paris— Ditto from Dieppe through Rouen to Paris— Ditto from Havre
through Rouen to Paris— Ditto from Helvoetsluys through Antwerp and Brussels to Paris
Hotels in the last named city— Fire-wood— Quarters of the town in which apartmoits at Hotels
are most expensive — Quarters in which they are most reasonable — Unfurnished aputmentfr-^
Eatables and wine — Restaurateurs — Caffe— V6ry, a celebrated Restaurateur— Wages of a
Valet-de-place — Price of job-coaches, and hackney carriages— Ditto of public carriages which
go to Versailles, Sfc. — Ditto of public boats, provisions, mreakfast and dinner at aRestaura-
teur's— Best shops— English Library and Newspapers— Professors— Notary public who trans-
acts business for the British Nation— English Surgeon— Abothecaries and Chemists— Prices
at the Theatres— Messageries Royales— Offices of the Cocne d'eau— Voituriers, where to be
found— Their usual prices — General Post— Petite Poste— Route from Paris through D^on to
Genevar— Paris to Pontarlier— Paris through Lyon to Chambery— Paris through Neveis and
Moulins to Lyons — Lyons through Avignon and Aix to Nice— Lyons to Avignon by water
Avignon to Nismes and Mont^Uier— Aix to Marseille and Toulon — Pans to Bordeaux
and Bayonnc — Paris to Brest^Paris to Dimkerque— Lille through Vpres to Ostend— Lille
to Brussels— Paris through Brussels to Ostend— Paris through Rheims to Liege^Paris
through Chalons sur-Mame to Strasbure— Paris through Troves to Strasburg— Paris through
Langres to Besancon— Paris to Grenoble— Paris through Toulouse to Perpignan Paris
through Chartres to La Rochelle— Paris through Caen to Ch^bourg-^Paris through Rmnes
to L'Orient— Paris to Nantes — Nantes through Rennes to S. Malo— Paris to PlMnbi6te»^
Paris to Barries and Bagn^res.
Between the first week in April, from their Moorings off the Tower <rf
and the last in November, Steam. London to Calais, in about twelve
Packets run daily, weather permitting, hours; and likewise from Calais to
- Aita the vitrioUc add has been put into three parts of the water shmiiii iw «w^nM<i w^*^
the water, it eHotOd stand two boon; wdtben inothSTdecStor! 2dtt?SSf ttoiSS^y^^
OH. It.] ST£AM.MCK£TS. 44$
London, in al^out the iftttie time* Gar* Oitend, And viM ^ertA, during the
ridges, hones, and luggage, oonreyed season.
by Steam- Packets, are shipped and Farei» — Chief-cabin, 21* — Fore-
reUnded fi*ee of expense. cabin, W. 10«. — Carriage with fodf
Farei from London to Calais^ and wheels, Al. 4#.^-Horse8, each, 4/. 4^.
^fic€ vend* Chief cabin, 1/. 13#«~-> Steam.Packets run from London to
Fore-cabin, U. 2«. 6</. — Children under Rotterdam, and vi&e versAf starting
twelve years of age pay half-price, and from London every Saturday morning
Servants, attending families. Fore- at eight o*clock, and returning every
cabin price. — Carriage with four Tuesday morning at ten, during the
wheels, 4/. 4«. — Carriage with two season.
wheels, 2/. 3«.— Horses, each, 8/. 3$,-^ Fares, — ^Chief-cabin, 2^. 10«. — Fore*
Dogs, each, 5«. — Refreshments to be cabin, 1/. Ids. — Carriage with four
had on board. Every Passenger is wheels, 6/. 6«., if a Berlin ; if a post*
allowed one hundred weight of bag- chaise, 61. 6s Gig, 3/. Ss* — Horses,
gage ; which must be sent to the each, 61. 6s. — Dogs, each lOs.
London Custom-house Quay, not later Steam-Packets run from Rotterdam
than one o^clock the day previous to to Cologne every Sunday, Tuesday,
starting t and Passengers* names, with and Friday morning. They likewise
the keys of their trunks, must be sent run from Rotterdam to Antwerp, and
at the same time to the Agent for vice versAy dally.
these Packets i whose address may be Steam-Packets run from London to
procured at the Packet-Office, near Hamburgh, and vice versA^ every Sa-
Eketer Change, in the Strand ; or of turday morning, during the season, ad
Godfrey, at the Saracen*s Head, already mentioned.
Aldgate. A Steam-Packet, called the Camilla,
Post. Office packets (Steam Boats) runs from Southampton to Havre,
run daily from Dover to Calais, and every Tuesday and Friday ; and from
Mce versAy throughout the year, wea- Havre to Southampton, every Wednes-
ther permitthig. day and Saturday, during the season.
Fares. — Ladies, Gentlemen, and Fares Chief-cabin, 21. 2s. — Fore*
Female Servants, \0s. 6d. each — Men cabin, II. \s. — CaiTiage with four
Servants, 6s, each. — Carriage with wheels, 4/. 4«. — Horses, each, 4/. 4«.
four wheels, 91. 9s* — Horses, each, Passports may be obtained at the
8/. ftff., duty inclusive. French Consulate. Office, Southamp-
Persons who embark at Dover usu- ton i and two French Steam-Packets
liUy have a few shillings to pay for ply between llouen and Havre, in
Town, Harbour, and Custom-house order to meet the Camilla, and convey
dues. her Passengers to the former town.
Steam-Packets likewise run regu- The Fares^ in these Steam-Packets,
lariy between Dover and Boulogne; are; for a Chief-cabin Passenger, 13
And persons who land at the latter francs— -for a Fore-cabin Passenger,
Port, instead of Calais, save fbur posts 8 francs — and for a carriage with four
and a quarter on their way to Paris t wheels, 40 francs,
but the passage from Dover to Bou- A Steam-Packet runs from South»
logne is, generally speaking, less fa- ampton to Caen, once a fortnight, dur*
vourable than from Dover to Calais ; ing the season,
although, on returning to England, Fares. — Ladies and Gentlemen,
the Packets which go from Boulogne each, 21. 2s Servants, each, 1/. Is.— 4
usually have a shorter passage than Carriage with four wheels, 3/. 39.
those which go from Calais. SteAm- Packets run from Brighton
Steam-Pa<3cets run from London to or Newhaven to Dieppe, and vice versA,
Havre, and vice versA^ in about thirty in about nine hours, during the season.
hours during the season ; namely, Fares Chief-cabin, 21. — Fore-
from the beginning of April till to- cabin, 1/. 10c. — Carriage with four
ward the autumnal equinox. wheels, 41. is.
Far6s. — Main-cabin, 2U \2Si 6(£,— This is computed to be the shortest
Fore-cabin, 8Z. 2<» route from London to Paris by ninety
Steam-Packetf roA £rom London to miles.
444
APPENDIX.
[Ch. IT.
A Steftm-Facket runs between Rams- five pounds; and outside-Passengen,
gate and Boulogne, during the season. of course, pay less : they sit with the
Fares Ladies and Gentlemen, 15«. Conducteur *, on a comfortable seat,
each. — Fore-cabin Passengers, 12s, which holds three persons, in front of
each. — Carriage with four wheels, 3^. the Diligence. £very Passenger is
A Post-Ofice Packet goes once a allowed to take, cost-free, as much
week from Dover to Ostend. Fares. — luggage as weighs fourteen pounds -j*.
Ladies and Gentlemen, each, II, Is,—^ Dejean, of Geneva, conveys Passen-
Servants, each, 10«. 6d. Persons who gers from London, through Paris, to
land at Ostend, instead of Calais, save Switzerland and Italy, allowing them
-two posts and a half on their way to remain two days in the last-named
to Paris, besides an extra-charge of City, or longer, provided they agree
half a post, which is paid on leaving to pay an extra-price for so doing.
Calais. Further particulars may be obtained
The distance between Dover and by an application at No. 33, Hay*
Calais is twenty-six miles and a half ; Market, London.
and between Dover and Ostend rather
more.
Emery, a Swiss Voiturin, likewise
conveys Passengers from London,
Steam-packets are less liable than through Paris, to Switzerland and
Other vessels to produce sea-sickness : Italy. Further particulars may be
and carriages, without being dis- obtained by an application to Emery,
mounted, are safely conveyed in them, at the White Bear, Piccadilly J,
A fast>sailing Cutter usually goes The best inns at Dover are, Ste^
from Plymouth to Bordeaux once a riker^s London Hotel, and the York
fortnight ; and particulars respecting Hotel.
passage-money, S[c. may be obtained
by an application to Hawker and Sons,
Briton-Side, Plymouth.
Persons who prefer crossing the
The most comfortable Inn at Calais
is The Royal Hotel, already named.
V Hotel Dessin, and L" Hotel de Bourm
bon are likewise good Inns. They all
Channel in a Sailing- Boat, to going, furnish travelling carriages, which may
in the usual way, in a Steam-Packet, be either purchased or hired : and a
should endeavour to reach Calais soon carriage hired at Calais to go to Paris,
enough to save the tide : by doing remains there, at the disposal of the
which, they are enabled to land from Hirer, during fifteen days ; so that he
their vessel on the Quay, instead of may, within that period, return it tq
being taken on shore in a French Har- Calais- without additional expense. A
bour-boat, and compelled to pay four French Cabriolet may visually be hired
livres and a half per head for going. for about four Napoleons; and a coach
Persons who land in a Harbour-boat for five or six.
at Dover (which is only needful when Every English carriage, on enter-
the tide does not serve to bring deck- ing France, is valued at the Custom^
vessels close to the Dover Quay) are House ; and one-third of the value
charged 4*. per head. deposited there, by the Owner ; who,
A Diligence goes periodically from on quitting France, by the same route,
London to Paris ; and places may be receives back about two-thirds of the
taken, and parcels booked, at the deposit, unless he stay beyond three
White Bear, Piccadilly, in the former years, in which case the whole sum is
City ; and at the Messageries Royales forfeited. Should he quit France by
de la Rue Notre Dame des Victoires, a route different to that whereby he
in the latter. The whole expense entered, he must have his Custom,
usually incurred by each inside-Pas- house-papers counter-signed at the last
senger, from London to Paris, is about Frontier^Bureau ; and then, either
- The Conducteur has the charge of passen-
ers and luggage.
t Coaches corresponding with the Megaage-
riea Royalea, Rue Sdtre-Dame des Victoires, at
Paris, go every morning and evening from The
Golden-Cross, Charing-Cross ; and also from
The Cross Keys, Wood-street, Cheapside. In
these Offices places may be secured to Pover«
Calais, Paris, and all the great towns of France;
and likewise to Brussels, Geneva, and Milan.
The Directeur des Messageries, in London,
engages to convey luggage of every description
to any part of the Continent, either by the
Diligence, or the Roulage.
t '^See what is said of Swiss Yoiturins in the
Hnx Chapter of this Work.
^EAKCt.] MONEY—EXPENSE OP TRAVELLING.
445
send them to the Custom-house where they give for paper drawn on them,
his deposit was made, requesting to it is advisable for Travellers to makd
have the sum due to him remitted to inquiries, respecting this subject, be-
his Banker ; or, should he design pass- fore they leave England,
ing again through France within the The expense attendant upon travel-
specified three years, he may, by re- ling on the Continent greatly depends
taining his papers, and producing them upon the disposition of the Travellers,
at the Custom-house belonging to the and the manner in which they travel.
Port where he embarks his carriage. Persons who go post in an English
recover the two-thirds of his deposit, carriage, preceded by a Courier, usually
Besides this deposit, a duty of twenty disburse a large sum of money, without
francs is paid upon every English car- living at all more luxuriously than
riage when landed in France ; and persons who travel in a Diligence. At
between thirty and forty francs more small provincial inns, persons who
are usually charged for clearance, S[c. dine at the Table d^Hote are often
English families on arriving at Ca- better served than persons whose din«
lais, or Boulogne, generally commis- ner is ordered at a high price by a
sion their landlord to clear their lug- Courier : and it sometimes occurs, in
gage; and the great Inns at Calais, the latter case, that Travellers are
and Boulogne, are provided with Com- compelled to wait for the refuse of the
missaries who manage this business ; Table d*H6t€ ; probably because the
for doing which they expect per car- larder at a provincial Inn may not
riage and family, ten francs. always be sufficiently well stored to
Travellers charged with sealed let- provide for persons who go post,
ters should not expose them to the and are therefore accidental Visiters ;
view of Custom-house Officers; and though Diligence - Passengers, being
luggage should (wh'en allowable) be constant Customers, are certain to
plumbed at every Frontier Custom- find a good meal prepared for them.
Jiouse*. Travellers who go post in France,
with an Avant-Courier, seldom pay
less, per head, than three francs for
Gold coins most in use are, the Na- breakfast, and ten for supper and beds :
poleon, or new Louis, worth twenty but persons who travel without parade,
francs ; . the double Napoleon, worth (though in their own carriage,) seldom
forty francs ; and the old Louis, worth pay more, per head, than two francs
about twenty-three francs and a half, for breakfast, three for dinner, and
Silver coins most in use are, the from five to six and a half for supper
piece of five francs ; the piece of three and beds f.
francs ; the piece of two francs ; the Fees to Servants at Public-houses
piece of one franc and a half; and the are very moderate ; a Porter never
piece of fifty centimes, being half a expecting more than twelve sous, and
franc. Copper coins most in use are, a Chamber-maid, or Waiter, never
the piece of two sous, being ten cen- more than double that sum, from each
times ; and the piece of one sou, being Traveller. Twenty-four sous are like-
iive centimes. Twenty sous make one wise quite sufficient to satisfy the
franc, or Uvre, for they are synony- Servant who greases the wheels of a
mous. travelling-carriage. French Inns, some
Accounts are kept in francs and years since, were not celebrated for
centimes, both by Bankers and other cleanliness, beds and table-linen ex-
persons : but, as the different Bank- cepted ; but now they are, on all
ing-houses at Paris vary in the prices points, much improved.
HONEY OF FBAKCE.
- Luggage is always liable to exaxninalion on
entering a new territory, but seldom on quit-
ting it.
t Persons who travel in their own carriage
are usuaUy charged, by Roberts, at the Hdtel
Royal, at Calais, for breakfast, per head, two
francs— dinner, four francs— and an apartment
large oiough to contain one master and four
lervants^ eight francs. The charge for ser-
vants, per head, is from three francs and a half
to four francs a day.
Roberts is famed for the goodness and va-
riety of his wines, as has already been men-
tioned; but Travellers, generally speaking, are
better supplied with wine at a French provin-
cial Hotel, by ordering the best Vin du Pais,
than the more expensive kinds ; which can sel-
dom be got genuinefrom an Innkeeper'* cellar.
446 APPflNDIX. [Ck. II.
An Engliih Gentleman, who lately that sum for a pofit-royal. Pontillions,
made an excursion from Southampton * indeed, both in France and Italy, seem
to Guernsey, and thence to iS« Malo, to think they have a right to the same
Rennes, Nantes, Tours, and Orleans, sum, per post, for themselves, that the
gives the following account of ex- post-masters charge per horse X*
pens^i, ^e. Travellers, on arriving in France,
Passage from Guernsey to S. Malo ought to purchase the ^^ Utat gmerai
for an Adult, ten shillings English; des Postet s^ anew edition of which
and for a child under twelve yean of is printed yearly ; and as alteration^
age, five shillings English. are frequently made in this post-hook.
The road from 6. Malo to Bennes it is expedient to inquire for the lafi
is rough; from Rennes to Nantes edition,
better; and from Nantes to Teilrs and The following regulations are usa»
Orleans, excellent. ally found in the ^^ £ia4 gin^rini ih9
The banks of the Loire (anciently Pontes.^*
called the LigerU), between S. Malo Two*wheeled carriages, called ca^
and Orleans, are enchanting. Passage* hriolett^ must have two horses and
boats may be met with to descend the one postilliont
Loire from Orleans to Nantes, one of Coaches, called herlme^^ and post*
the most delightful aquatlo excursions chaises with poles, must lUways bav#
in France. The Masters of these four horses; though never more than
boats land their passengers every even* six ; with two postillions*
ing, that they may eat and sleep on Four-wheeled carriages ^ Umomir9
shore ; and the fare, from Orleans to (that is, with shafts, instead of a pole),
Nantes, does not exceed fifteen francs, must have three horses and one poa*
The latter is a hands(mie town, plea-* tillion.
santly situated, and oontaining excel- Post-masters at Paris, and withia
lent innsf. Good dinners, table-wina fifteen leagues of that city, are for«i
inclusive, are furnished by the Inn* bidden to supply a Stranger with peat*
keepers here, at three francs a head ; horses, unless he can produce a permis-
and a laiige Family may live very oom- sion to travel post, from the Directeur
fortably in this part of France for five General ; which permission is deli-
hundred pounds per annum. Tours vered, gratis, to every person wh«
is a handsome Town, containing two presents a proper passport,
excellent Inns, The Hoiel D^Anglem It is the custom now in France td
terre^ and The Faitan ; and, likewise, put shafts to every English po6t-<:Jiai8e(
an English ProtestantrChapel. Inn- lashing the pole under the perch i be-
keepers at Tours furnish breakfast, cause an English poet^duiise, convey*,
without tea, for one franc a head ; din- ing four persmis, is permitted to traviri
ner, tablcrwine inclusive, for three with one postillion and three honot
francs ; and a bed for about thirty sous, (four being paid for) ; provided it hav^
The fruit in this neighbourhood is shafts ; which can always be obtainod
delicious, and remarkably cheap. in Post-towns for twenty francs : and
this mode of travelling generally eosts
PBicE OF POST -HORSE 3, ^0, about fourtoen-pence, English, par
mile, fees to postillions inclusive.
The usual price for every horse is An English post-chaise, conveyingp
one franc and fifty centimes (thirty three persons only, is permitted to
sous) a post ; and a French post is, travel with one postillion and thra«
generally speaking, near five English horses, no fourth horse being paid for,
miles in length. provided the dirriage have shafts.
A driver cannot demand more than Distances in this country are com-
seventy-five centimes (fifteen sous) a puted by leagues ; one French league
post; but expects from thirty to thirty- being equal to about three thousand
five sous for a common post, and twice geometrical paces ; and stones are fre-
- A steam-packet runs between Guenuey hones with other postiOions on the road* unlew
sad Southampton. it be with the consent of the pexsoas he is
t VHAteldBFrtmoetVHdtade9mnmgtr9»S[e. driving: this conseat, however, b leUam n*
% A French postillion has no right to change fused.
Pbajtce.] public conveyances. 447
quently placed half a league from each practice to travel in Diligences ; which
other, on great roads, to mark dis- go, both by land and water, from Paris
Canoes *. to all the departments of the empire.
The water-Diligence, called a Cache-'
TA&iFF OF 1826. cT^aw, should always be preferred to
CABBIOLBT8. *^* land-Diligcncc in those provinces
No. of Per- No. of Price per Sum where the roads are rough, and where
flOQi. Hones. Hone. Total. the Traveller can descend a river ; to
1 2 li Francs. 3 Francs, ascend being tedious.
2 214 3 Single men, if they wish to travel
3 3 1^ A\ with rapidity, should accompany the
4 3 2 6 Letter.couriers, each of whom has one
LiMovixBss. place to dispose of in his carriage.
1,2, or 3 3 \\ A\
4 3 2 6 USUAL PRICE OF PUBLIC CAB-
N.B. For every person, exceeding eiages throughout France.
the number of four, there is an extra ^ . * i. 1 ,
i*arge of one franc and fifty centimei. ^.!^.« ^^^^^ P>«*' P^" *«^«' '«* , ^
° ^ fk Diligence • . . Sous 16
1 « o ^ BERLINBS. q^^ pj^^^ ^^ ^y^ Cabrfolot, W
1, 2, or 3 4 \\ 6 outside seat of a Diligence . . 10
4, or 6 6 1 1 9 o^e place in a Fourgon, or lug-
6 o If 10| gage-cart 6
N.B. For every person, exceeding Qne place in a Coche^eau . 8
iio "^!?f , "^^ ^^If^ • *•*'" P^»>«c carriages in France are more
charge of one franc and iifty centimes, ^^^^enient and less crowded than in
A berline is not to be drawn by England ; and the civility Foreigners
more than six horses. generally receive from Conductors of
One child, if under six years, pays Diligences, Passengers and Inn-keep-
nothing : and two children, if not ers, renders this mode of travelling
above that age, are considered equiva- pleasant ; besides which, luggage of
lent to one adult. every description is conveyed remark-
In cases where permission is granted ably safe by French Diligences -f-.
to post-masters to put on extra-horses. The Diligence which goes from
the third, or extra-horse, is charged Paris to Brussels contains eight places;
at one franc and fifty centimes per the distance is sixty-six leagues ; and
poat. This permission is B<mietimes every Passenger pays three louis-d*ors ;
granted for the whole year, and some- being, for that sum, provided with din-
times for the six winter-months only, ner, supper, half a bottle of table- wine
commencing on the first of November, at each mead, and a good bed at night.
It is customary in ascending the Sometimes, indeed, there are several
mountain of Tartare, near Lyon, and beds in the same chamber ; but, for
the mountain of EcheDes, to employ twenty sous extra, a room containing
oxen ; and to pay for them, per pair, only one bed may usually be procured,
thirty sous a post. The Passengers pay the fees to Ser-
It is likewise customary and ad- vants at inns, who do not, however,
visable, at every post, to pay the post- expect more than ten sous per night
master for his horses before they set from any person travelling in a Dili-
out, gence.
The Posts in France are well served ; The Brussels Diligence stops on the
and the roads, gene^Uy speaking, first night at Peronne, on the second
good during summer and autumn. It at Mons, and on the third arrives at
has, however, of late, been much the Brussels.
• As there are no regular toll-gates, either hi the Mont-Cente, and Splugen.
France or Italy, TraveUen flddom find them< t The family of the AuUior wnt their Impe-
fldives called upon to contribute toward the rials from Lyon by the Diligence to Nice; they
expense of repairing the roads; except it be on contained trinkets* lace> ^.» of considerald^
crossing some d the new bridges; (where a toU valuet and* owing to a neglectful Courier, were
of from oae to thr«e francs, per carriage, is neither locked nor corded; but. u^rathokm,
paid ; ) and likewise on crossfaig the Sia^Hm, arrived at Nice in perfect safety.
44d APPEJ^DIX. ICh. II.
CANAL or LAKGUEDOC. informing his Passengers where they
rni. ^ , , r TT TTr are to dine; and likewise where they
o« J K ?f *\ ^^ ^^, ^^.®!*^ ^Y' are to sleep. He provides them with
^!^i^yi 'l'^^^^n'^V'^.^^^ good horses; and does not regulate
unites the Atlantic Ocean to the Me- ^j^^j^ j^our of departure, further than
aiterran^ntoea. . . to require that they shall reach the
From Bordeaux to Toulouse, against dining-place by twelve at noon. On
the stream, the merchant-boat is ten arriving, they always find a good din-
days ingoing up the Garonne: from ^^^ pripared for them, with half a
♦wiT"*" '^^'^®^'?^'*^*S^t'^^^' bottle of table-wine allotted to each
three days m going down. The price, Passenger. After dinner they set out
TfnJi \*V ^'^*^*?*■^l*'*^^^^^ again; and, on reaching the inn where
BordeauxtoToulouse,istwelve hvres. ^ ^ ^ ^i ^J^ ^ supper
^pn.^p'^l^.'L r^' "" the Govern- ^^ady to be sei^red; and, geneSlly
^^T.^ ^ R ^"^ • * ? ^^^' speaking, every Passenger gets a good
from Toulouse to Beziers, is nine hvres ^ed. The Wwa^^r seldom takei his
^J^^^V a'^d the accommodations are ^^^1^ ^ above six leagues a day:
f^: ,^"^«^fi^' P^^ quintal, costs four ^nd so oec^nomical is thirmode of t/a-
^U^7 '^""V fi? ^ ^' ^^"i'^g that, from Nantes to Paris, a
ployed in going is three days. The iournev of ninetv leagues the nrice is
▼oyage, on board a Merchant-boat, i„i ^ * ? ^ leagues, tne price is
frdm^'oulouse to Cette, generally oc! ^^J %flj f^T' 'T^ f^'^'"' •^'
cupies a week. MerchaLboatsUe Zjve^^ *^ ^'^'^ ^' '"^^ ^^-
carriages ; but the Government Packet-
boat does not. Between Bordeaux and '^]^^ distance from Calais to
Toulouse, during summer, the Ga- Paris, through Amiens, is com-
ronne is occasionally so shallow that puted to be, English miles , 186
boats cannot pass. The Canal shuts From Calais to. Paris, through
on the fifteenth of August, that it Beauvais . . . .178
may be cleansed ; and opens again on Prom Ostend to Paris, through
the first of October. Lille 192|
The Towns visited by Travellers From Dieppe to Paris, through
who pursue this route are, Bordeaux, Rouen 123
Toulouse, Villefranche, Carcassonne, Prom Havre-de- Grace to Paris,
Beziers, and Adge ; where vessels through Rouen , . .tl64i
bound for Marseille may be heard of
daily, by an application at the Custom, ^oute fhom Calais, thuough
TraveUers may go from Paris to Post.. ^^'' T "•
Cette by the inland navigation. IJ Hautbuisson ^Rosid good. An
The passage by sea, for one person, extra half-post is paid on quitting
from Cette to Leghorn, costs three Csdais.
Napoleons ; and from Marseille to 1 Marquise — ^Best inn, Le Cerf,
Leghorn, five Napoleons. 1 j B&ulogne — Road paved. When
the pavement is not well kept,
MESSAGEKiE A CHEVAL. ^^7 ^ Y^"^ postillion, « Allez
8ur la terre ;" and he will gene-
Tn the western and southern parts rally take the road on the side
of France persons who choose to travel of the pavement. Inns, F(mbe'*8
on horseback consign their luggage to Hotel cTAngleUrre^ &c., already
the Messager-en-chef ; who conveys mentioned,
it from place to place in a Fourgon or 2 Samer — The Tete de Bceuf is a
covered cart, setting out himself very good inn.
early every morning ; but previously 1 Cormon/— Best inn, Le Renard.
- If Travellew find themselves Rggrieved, Every Post-Master is obliged to keep, under
either by an Inn-keeper or a Post-master in. the superintendeiltee of the^Maire of the d£
France, they should have immediate recourse trict, a Register, in which Travellers have «
to the Maire or Sous-Prefect of the district ; right to en^their compUbits . ^^ *
these Magistrates being bound to redress griev- t It appean that th^ distance* are over,
-'oes. xated.
Frakcs.]
ROUTES.
449
1^ Montreuil — Inns, VH6tel de
Londres, &c., already mentioned. *
1^ Nampont
1 Bernay *
1 JVb?i»oiii— The country fromCalais
hither is, generally speaking,
open, and thinly peopled.
14 Abbeville— Best inns. The Ttte
de BoBuf^ &c., already mentioned.
1^ Ailly le HauUClocher
l| Flixcourt
1 Pecquigny
\\ Amiens — anciently Amhianus,
This is a large and handsome
City, and a cheap place for per-
manent residence. The Cathe-
dral here ( particularly its Nave)
is considered as the most perfect
piece of Gothic architecture in
France ; and the best inn is r Ho-
tel de la Posie. The country
from Abbeville hither abounds
with corn ; and many parts of the
road are bordered with fruit-
trees. An extra-half-post is paid
on quitting Amiens.
1 Hebtrcourt
1 Fleurs
14 Bretueil—^The Hotel de S, NicO"
las here is a tolerably good inn.
14 Wavigny
1 St. Juste f — The road from Bou-
logne hither is good ; and hence
to Paris paved and in excellent
condition.
,2 Clermont — VEpte ; and Le point
du Jour, are tolerable inns.
\\ Lingueville
14 ChantillyX
\\ Luzarches
l| Ecouen — The Hotel de tille is a
very good inn.
IJ St. Denis
1 Paris — An extra post is paid,
both on entering and on quitting
— this city.
344 posts.
ROUTE FROM CALAIS, THROUGH
BEAUVAIS, TO PARIS.
This road is less hilly than that
- The Pofft-home at Bernay is a clean and
comfortable sleeping-place.
t The Post-master has a right to put on an
extra-horse from S. Juste to Clermont.
♦Inn, Hotel d*Angietiire.
§ This town contains good Inns; among
which axeNicfMl9on*s Hotel and the Hotel Belle-
vue.
through Amiens, &nd in all respects
equally good.
13} Abbeville — See the preceding
route, from Calais, through
Amiens, to Paris.
2 J Airaines — The Post-house is a
.good inn ; and Le Lion d^or ap-
pears good.
IJ Camps
14 Poix
l| Granvilliers—V Hotel d!" Angle*
tlrre is the only tolerable inn.
IJ Marseille-sur-Oise — Best inn,
L*Epie Royale.
2J Beauvais — Best inns, VEcu de
France, &c., already mentioned.
]} Noailles
ij Puiseux
l| Beaumont-sur-Oise — Best inns,
Le Paon, &c., already men-
tioned.
14 Moiselles
14 S. Denis
1 Paris
324 posts.
ROUTE FROM OSTEND§ TO PARIS,
THROUGH LILLE.
3 Tourout
14 Rousselart
2 Menin
2 Lille — The inhabitants of this
City amount to near 60,000 1|.
The Citadel is one of the strong-
est in Europe. The Hotel de
Ville, the Theatre, and the Ge-
neral Hospital, merit notice.
L' Hotel de Gand, near tlie
Diligence Office, is a good inn ;
so likewise is L^ Hotel de Bour-
bon. An extra quarter of a post
is paid on quitting Lille.
\\ Point-ci-Marcq.
24 Douay — ThisTown contains afirie
Arsenal, a Cannon Foundry., and
an Artillery School. L* Hotel de
r Europe is one of the best inns.
An extra quarter of a post is paid
on quitting Douay.
1^ Bac-Aubencheul
Ladies, kept by pewons of high respectability;
who teach the French, English, German , and
Italian languages ; together with music, dancing,
and every kind of fancy work, for thirty-five
louis-d'ors per annum, board, washing, and
all expenses inclusive. They likewise pay great
attention to the health of their Pupils, and
are celebrated for the cleanliness of their semi-
I Lille contains a good school for young nary.
2g
460
API^filVDCt.
• [ClL II-
-2 1 Cambm7...aiieient]y C4Mara<?<im,
contains about 14,000 inhabit*
mnt«, and a Cathedral in whxck
ar« Paintings done to imitate
Baati'Ttlievi, by an artist of Ant-
werp*
-1| B4mav9
]} Fins
2 Peronne — This Town is seated oil
the Somme. The best inn here
is The H$ta SL Matiau
H Matehk4e-Pot
X Fanehea
1 Roye
\\ Gonchp-iet'PotM
1 Cuvilfy
1 Goumay-sur'Aronde
1} Bois-de-Lihris
]} Poni S* MaJtenee
li Seniis
1 La Chapelle-en^Serval
1^ Louvres
1§ Bourget
U Paris
37^ posts.
HOUTE FROM DIEPPE TO PARIS,
THROUGH ROUEN.
'Dieppe is a handsome Town, supposed
to contain 20,000 inhabitants. The
large Church of S. Jacques merits
notice; as does the view from the
Cliffs, The best inns are, The Hotel
d* Anglethrre^ kept by Tatlor ; and
the H6tel de Londres, kept by Pe-
tit.*
3 Omonville — ^An extra quarter of a
post is paid on quitting Dieppe.
l} Totei — The inn here is tolerably
good.
IJ Cambres
^ Rouen — ThisCity,anciently called
Rotomagus, is supposed to con-
tain 80,000 inhabitants. The
Cathedral, begun by William,
the Conqueror o( England — the
Churches of S. Ouen, and S.
Maclou — the Bridge of Boats,
thrown over the Seine — and the
Ruins of a Stone Bridge, built
by the Empress Matilda, daugh-
ter of Henry I, of England,
deserve notice. Inns, The Hotel
de Lisieux, and the Hotel Vattel,
There is a conveyance by water
from Rouen to Pails. The road
between Paris and Roaen pre-
sents rich and beautiful scenery.
An extra half post is paid ob
quitting Rouen.
IJ Forge-Ferette
1 Bourg.B4iudouin^
1} BeoUis
2 Timers
2 Magny
IJ Bordeau-de-Vigny
2 Ponioise — The ChurchofS. Mar-
tin is celebrated for its architec-
ture; and the Church ofS, Mal^
Urn contains a famous Descent
from the Cross.
\\ FrctnconviUe
\\ St, Denis
1 Paris.
22^ posts.
ROUTE FROM HAVRE-DE-GRACE TO
PARIS, THROUGH ROUEN AND
S. GERMAIX-EN-LAYE.
Havre, situated at the mouth of the .
Seine, is a flourishing commercial City,
which contains 20,600 inhabitants, and
possesses the advantage of a Port ac-
cessible during almost every wind : its
Floodgates and Basins, m»:Ae by Napo-
leon, merit notice. Its best inns are,
the H&tel du Bien Venu; and the
Hotel des Indes.
2 La Botte — An extra half -ptst ts
paid on quitting Havre.
1| Bolbec
l} Aliquerville
1| Yvetot
2| Barenkn
2 Rouen
1^ Port S, Ouen
2 Lduvier's
\\ Gailhm
l| Vernon
l^ Bonnieres
l| Mantes
2 Meulan
1 Triel .
US. Germain-en-Laye
If Courbevoie
1 Paris.
274 posts.
- Persons who go from Dieppe to Paris, and Pontoise, and Franconville. Packets tutiallv
«ffe not anxious to see Rouen, may pursue a go from Dieppe to Brighton every day. ftoto
worter route, namely, through Bou-Robert, the fifteenth of April till the fifteenth of Octo.
Pommsrevel, Forget, Gwrmy, Giwrs, Chars, ber.
FraiTce.]
ROUTES.
4M
&OUTS FROM HELrOETSLtryS AKD
ROTTEBDAM, TRnOVOH ANT-
WERP AND BRUSSELS, TO PARIS.
The Steam-Packet, Attwood, which
(during the season) leaves London
ev^ry Saturday morning at eight
o'clock for Rotterdam, enters the
Maes at Breille, when the tide pet^
xuits; and, at other times, goes by
way of Helvoetsluys ; proceeding di-
Tect to Rotterdam.
1^ Breille — Situated at the mouth of
the Maes. Best inn, The Gol-
den Lion.
24 Rotterdam*
3i Slryensaas
l| Moerdyk
- 2 Cruyglaeste
^ Coin d' Argent
3| Antwerp — This City, once the
centre of commerce, contained,
at that period, 160,000 inhabi*
tants : now, it has little more,
than one-third of the number :
but some of its stately buildings,
together with a fine street* called
La Place de Mer^ still remain.
Antwerp is seiated on the Scheldt,
a tide river, .twenty feet deep at
low water ; therefore vessels are
enabled to anchor close to the
Quays. The Docks, Arsenal,
and other public Buildings are
splendid; the Citadel is strong;
jEmd the Harbour and FOrtifica*
tions were much improved by
Napoleon. The CatJiedral^ a
magnificent structure, is en-
riched with valuable Paintings
by Flemish Masters ; and its
Spire^ four hundred and sixty
feet high, is very beautiful. The
Church of S, James^ contains
Painted Glass ; the Church qf
the Domenicans^ and that of S,
Augtutine<i are ornamented with
Paintings, by Rubens and Van-
dyck ; and the celebrated Altar,
piece by the former, called The
Elevation of the Cross, adorns
• the Church of S. Walburgh.
The Exchange^ and the Hotel
de Ville are handsome ; and the
best inn is the Hotel d^AngU*
tkrre.
24 MeehUn— The Churches here, and
the Chapel of the Segktmes, de-
serve notice; as they contain
Paintings by Rubens, Vandyck,
H Vilvorde — The pleasantest mode
of travelling hence to Brussels is
by the Canal ; from which, the
superb Palace of Schoenberg may
he seen to great advatatage.
1| Brussels— This City ^ the Capital
of the Kingdom of the Nether-
lands. Is watered by the little
river Senne, and supposed to
have about 7^)000 inhabitants.
Its fortifications are destroyed,
and its Ramparts, (being plantlBd
with trees,) are converted into
Promenades. The Park, or
Public Garden, is decorated with
Fountains and Statues; and en-
circled by splendid buildings.
The Palace, in which the Aus-
trian Viceroy formerly resided,
contains a Picture-Gallery and
a Public Library rich in finely
illuminated Manuscripts. The
Tower of the Hotel de Ville, (a
magnificent specimen of Gothic
architecture,) is thi*ee hundred
and sixty-four feet high ; and
has, on its summit, a Statue of
S. Michael, which turns with the
wind, and is seventeen feet high.
The Opera'liouse deserves noticei
and the Lace made here has long
been celebrated.
Inns, The Hotel d'Angletirre
^The H6tel de Bellevue^The
Hotel de Flandre, 4fc.
This may be cidled a cheap
City for permanent residence $
though house-rent is dear.
About nine miles from Bru8«
sels, ill the neighbourhood cf
Genappe^ a market-town on the
river Dyle, is the Field of Water-
loo ; where a small band of Bri^
tish Heroes subdued thegigantio
power of France, and put to
flight her ablest General.
2 Hal
l\ La Gerette
l| Toignies
2 Mons — This Town is said to hare
22,000 inhabitants, and a Casih
erected by Julius Caesar. Tkr.
Church is a handsome building,.
• See AppBinax«*iio£LAXc».
2a2
402 APPENDIX. ' ICh. n.
m
uid its Side-altars Are of Jas- francs per day, of from tliree hundred
per. to iive hundred francs per month.
1^ Bousga For a suite of three or four rooms,
li Quievrain from six to eight francs per day, or
H Valenciennes-'A strong Tofwn, from an hundred and twenty to an
supposed to have 30,000 inha- himdred and fifty francs per month,
bitants. It stand* on the Scheldt, Single chambers, from one franc and'
and the Citadel was constructed a half to fourfrancs per night, or from
by Vbuban. Best Hotel, Le thirty to an hundred franca per month.
Pot (TEUiin, Bre^fast of tea, or coffee, one franc
2 J Souchain and a half ; a new-laid egg^ five sons- ;
2 Cambray a plate of ham, or tongue, fifteen sous*;
H Boriavy a beef-steak, one franc ; two matton.
1^ Fins chops, one franc ; a plate of soup, ten.
2 Pironne sous ; bread for dinner, four sous ;
16} Paris * dinner a la carte^ or at five francs per
head, without wine. Wine, (per bot-
WJ posts. tier) Macon, thirty sous; white Beaune,
two francs ; red Beaune, three francs $
Paris (as already mentioned) is said Bordeaux, from thirty-five sous to four
to contain three hundred Hotels, many francs ; Champagne, six francs ; coffee
of which are splendidly furnished : after dinner, ten sous ; tea in the
some of them, however, may be with evening, twenty-five sous. Servants,
more propriety denominated ready, each, per day, five francs,
furnished lodging-houses ; as they Ready-furnished Apartments may
neither provide eatables nor waiters ; be hired in private houses ; and several
though the English custom of doing respectable Parisians take Boarders r
both has lately gained ground : but but Families who design to remain
no Hotel provides fire-wood ; which some time at Paris, and wish to live
is an expensive article, and can only with ceconomy there, should rent an
be purchased reasonably at the wood- Unfurnished Apartment in the Fau.
yards, where it usually costs from bourg S. Jacques, hiring furniture of
thirty to forty francs a load. TheRtie an upholsterer. Persons who travel
de la PaiXy the Rue S. Honor e^ the in a Diligence, may usually procure
Rue de Rivoli, and the Rue de Riche- apartments at the Hotel attached to
lieu^ contain the best Hotels ; among the Diligence Office, or some other in
which are The Hotel Meurice, Rue S. the vicinity.
Honore^ The Hotel d* Hollande^ Rite Eatables and wine are good at Paris ;
de la Paijc, And The Hotelde Wagram^ and Restaurateurs will send plentiful
Rue de la Paix : but accommodations dinners to large families at four or five
for a small family, in this quarter, francs per head, bread, fruit, and wine,
usually cost five hundred francs a not included : but single men are bet-
month ; whereas the same accommo- ter served by taking their meals at the
dations, in the Faubourg S. Germain^ House of a Restaurateur ; which is a
may be obtained for two-thirds of that sort of Tavern, where Ladies likewiae
sum ; and near the Messageries Roy. may dine without the smallest impro*
ales for still less. The Proprietors of priety. Ladies are also in the habit,
great Hotels do not, in general, like to after dinner, of frequenting the Cafes ;
receive Travellers by the day : but at where tea, coffee, chocolate, capillaire.
The Hotel d* Angletkrre^ Rue Filles &c. are served in the morning ; and
S» Thomas^ and The Hotel de Hunger^ coffee, liqueurs, beer, lemonade, and
fordy Rue Caumartiny this is not the ices, in the evening. There also are
case. The latter Hotel (small but Ca^forwhat is called a ef^j&^n^r/rotcf
very comfortable) is kept by Sailly ; A la fourchette ,* which consists of sau-
whospeaks English; and whose charges sages, cold meat, eggs, and excellent
are as follows. Fora suite of six rooms wines; and as the Parisians seldom
and a kitchen, from fourteen to twenty dine before five or six o^dock, they
• See RouTB fbom OniNo to Pabibi tbrouoh Lillk«
Fkakcb.]
PARIS.
453
frequently take these meat breakfasts.
Very ia a celebrated Bestaurateur^axid
baR two houses; one in the Palais^
Jioyai, Galerie de pierre^ and the other
in the Rue de Rivoli ; but persons who
dine at either oi his houses should take
<5are to order only such a number of
portions of each dish as they are likely
to eat; every portion being charged
separately. The carte A manger is
given into your hands the moment
you evLtev these taverns, with the price,
per ^rtion, of every dish, and a list of
the wines and their prices* .
The Cafk des Mille Colonnet, Place
du Palais^Royal^ is celebrated for the
excellence of its ices, &c. The Cc/e-
Hardy^ on the Boulevard des lialiens^
is likewise celebrated for excellent ices,
and meat-breakfasts.
A good Valet'de-Place, who speaks
English, may be hired for five francs
a day, he finding himself in every
thing.
A Job-Coach usually costs from
eighteen to twenty francs per day ;
and from four hundred and fifty to five
hundred francs per month: but, if
these carriages be taken a few miles
into the country, the coachman expects
five francs for himself.
Hackney - Coaches, Chariots, and
Cabriolets, are paid for, either by the
fare, or by time. For a coach or
chariot, the price is thirty sous per
fare ; the driver having a right to
demand a fare whenever ordered to
stop ; but if he be not ordered to stop,
he must drive from one extremity of
Paris to the other for the above-men-
tioned price. The fare by time is two
francs for the first , hour, thirty sous
for every subsequent hour, and fifteen
for every half-hour, unless it be from
midnight till four in the morning,
when the price is doubled : and if the
dock strike twelve immediately before
the dismissal of a hackney>coach, the
coachman has a right to demand ten
sous extra. Hackney-Coachmen ex-
• The price of ready-furnished apartmentst
and likewise of provisions, at Paris, is rising
rapidly, owing to the great influx of British
Travelers.
t The French pound, called poida de tablet is
about fourteen ounces and a half; and the
kilogram about thirty-five ounces.
^ A melancholy proof of this occurred not
long since at Pisa. Two Ladies were living
together in that city, when one of them com-
|»)ai]iing of cramp In her siomachi the oth^s
pect drink-money ; though they can
not demand it.
The price in public Carriages which
go to Versailles, S. Cloud, S. Denis,
and other environs of Paris, is from
twenty to forty sous each Passenger.
The public carriages which go to Ver-
sailles, S. Germain, S. Cloud, and all
the western environs of Paris, are sta-
tioned at the extremity of the Quay
of the Tuileries ; and those which go
to S. Denis, and the other northern
environs, in the Ru£ d'Enghxen^ or
the Rue de Mably^ near. the Gate of
S. Denis.
Public Boats go almost every hour
of the day to Meudon. S. Cloud, &c.
The average price of prime joints of
butchers* meat is from ten to thirteen
sous the pound -f* — of fowls, from
thirty-five to forty sous each — of the
best bread from five to six sous the
pound — and of common table-wine
from twenty to twenty-five sous the
bottle. Travellers should, however^
recollect, that between average and
acHial prices, there may sometimes be
a difference.
A breakfast ei la fourchette^ usually
costs one franc per head; unless tea
be required, when the price is three
francs ; but, in these prices, wine is not
included.
A dinner at a Restaurateur^ s may
usually be procured for two francs a
head, or even less, exclusive of wine*
Corcellet, Marchand de Comestibles^
au Gourmand^ Palais-Royal, sells or-
tolans, game, poultry, Hamburgh-beef,
Bayonne-hams, Bologna-sausages, Pe-
rigord, and other celebrated meat-pies,
grocery, Italian, Swiss, and English
cheeses, English ale, porter, mustard,
tea, Cayenne -pepper, curry-powder,
and fish-sauces ; wines, liqueurs, with
almost every other article of luxury for
a table. He likewise sells ratafias ;
but liquors of this kind, whether in
France or Italy, are extremely dele-
terious j:.
gave her a wine-glass of Ratafia, which hap-
pened to be in the house. Shortly after having
swallowed it she died, so evidently in conse-
quence of poison, that strong suspiciom fell
upon her ftiend ; who, to prove her innocence*
took the same quantity of Ratafia herself,
which she had administered to the deceased,
and expired within a few hours.
Prompted by this circumstance. Professor
Santi, of Pisa, wrote a beautifiU little work, to
•hew that ^atafiahas of late y^an beenmado
464 APKPMniX. ICh. It:
. Bre moaX celebrated Wine Mer* floors), may likewise be met witli
diants are ; Brunet and Co., No. 3, ready-made at Paris*.
MtuedeGrammotU—'Dedetaadhesionef, Amon^ the^ best Si&-mercers are.
No. 20, Rue de la Paix — ^Dudaux, Burty, No. fife, Rue de RicheHeu-^
No. 57, Rue du Faubourg 8. Honwri-^ Gay and Paris, No. 56, Rue de Ricke^
and Robins, No. 9, Rue Viviennei iieu^-Johnson and Co., No. 18, iTu^
who L'kewise sells Tea, and keeps a Vimenne — and Richer and Co., No. 16;
general Agency Office for tbe direction Rue Vimenne. Embroidery, Indiati
of Foreigners. and Merino Shawls, Blonde Lace,'
The best Pastry-cooks are; Douglas, Court and Ball Dresses, are found iti
No. 36, Rue de Rivoli Michel, No. 4, these Shops. French figured silks and
Rue Neuve du Luxembourg and lb* satins cost from ten to fourteen franca
b^tson and Tavemier, No. 353, Ai*, the aune, which is an English ell ;
Rue S. Honori. LeFantines from six to ten francs ; and
The best Butcher is Cheval, No. 4, slight Florence silks from four to seven
3iarchi S. H<morL He cuts meat in francs. Barbaroux, No. 90, Rue 8:
the English manner; and has Con- J7(mor^, is a good Linen and Woollen
stantly on sale rounds, and briskets of Draper, who sells at fixed prices — De-
beef, and neats* tongues, salted h lisle. No. 46, Rue S. Anne^ is a cel^-
PAnglaise. brated Linen-draper — Durand and
Tea-dealers are ; Akerman, No. 10, Co., No. 18, R^te Vivienne, are Linen-
Rue S. Marc-Feydeau — ^Amet, No. 47, drapers, and Dealers in Lace — and at
Rue Neuve S, Augustin — Millot Pie- La FiUe mal CUirdie, and Le IHabie
hot, who sells grocery of all kinds, Boiteux, (numbers 9, and 11,) Ruede
No. 107, Rue Montmartre — and Shaw la Monnaie^ a large assortmient may
and Co., No. 23, Plaee Vendome. be found of Silk Goods, Stockings in-^
Mademoiselle Leroy, No. 345, Rue elusive ; Cambrics, and Linen>drapery
S. Honorij is a first-rate Dress-maker -in general, at fixed prices. Oaillard,
and MiUener — Madame Benoist, No. No. 8, Rue de la Pcnx^ sells the sam^
33, Rue NBUi>e des PetUs Champs^ is articles at fixed prices — Durand, 37^
eeiebrated for making elegant BaUand and 38, Galerie du Cafe de Foy^ /*a-^
Court Dresses — and Madame Heutte, lais Rpycd^ sells Silks, Shawls, &c. ,
No. 20, Rue de Richelieu^ is an excel- and makes Gentlemens* dothes, man-
^m Dress-maker — Madame Mayer, ties, pelisses, and spencers. Le Sueur,'
No. 182, Rue Montmartre^ and Miss Rtte de Grammont^ sells Lace. — Eng.
Whittingham, No. 6, Rue du Petit Ush Stationery may be purchased of
fiourhon, S. Sulpice, are good Corset- Bedel, No. 10, Rue Vimenne ; and
makers. excellent Rouge of Martin, No. 21,
Among the most celebrated Tailors Rue Grange BateHire.
are, Bar& and Co., No. 8, Rue Vi^ Souriau, No. 20, Rue Feydeau^ is a
^nne ,• and Froger, No. 16, Boule» gjood watchmak«r-^Aubert and Ber-
i^ard des Italiens. Cherry, No. 20, tin. No. 14, Rue Franfoise, near the
Rue Feydeau, is a good Hatter ; Ash- Rue Tiquetonne, deal in Musical
ley, a good Mens* Boot and Shoe- Clocks and SnufF-boxes — and Deniers,
maker ; and Melinotte, in the Rue de No. 15, Mue Vivienne, has a rich col-^
ta Paia^ a good Ladies* Shoemaker : lection of Time-pieces, and other arti-
he charges, whether for silk or leather des in bronze. — Moiton, No. 5, Rue
shoes, six francs the pair ; for thin du Faubmtrg 5. Honore^ and Bennet^
boots, from twelve to fifteen francs ; No. 9, Rue du Marche S* Honore, are
and for thick boots, lined with fur, English Coachmakers.
twenty-four francs ; Ladies* boots and Print-sellers are, Constans, No. 5,
$hoes, ready-made, may, in other Rue Neuve S. Augustin ; and Dauty
shops, be purchased cheaper ; and ex- and Desmaisons, Galerie de Nemours^
eellent Mens* shoes and boots, together Palais Royal.
With Ladies' shoes, called Piott^l* (and Excellent Professors of Dancing^
calculated to resist the chill of brick Fencing, Music, and Drawing, may
viA Italian 1«»el IttTess the extract txata be icorn aver shoei, and lined idth cgUoo
be fouBd 8t Puk. Aanxog ihoge now 2^BuedeG€dUm^ii»KetkeMo^^M
resident there (1827), are Ma<}ame Paix. Baron' Dupuytren, an emim^ait
Hildibrand, Rue Vivienne, No. 9, who Freodh Sui^eon^ la at home from ten in
Utaches the Harp ; Mademoiselle Ba- the morning till one, and may be ad*
taillard, who teaches the Harp and dressed either at No. 4, jP/ac«c/uZ.owre,
Pianoforte ; Monsieur Oobertz, Draw- or 37, Place S, Germain VAuxerrm^.
ing-master,' No. 10, Rue de Tourai^g^ Bougon, No. 1, Rue de P Observance^
Faubourg S* Germain ; and Monsieur and Lafond, No. 46, Rue de Richelieu^
BertraAd, Junior, Monsieur Coulon, are likewise eminent French Surgeons i
And Monsieur Lebrun, Fencing-mas- and the former is at home, daily, from
ters. half.past ten till noon. The most
. Monsieur Sensier, No. 247, Rue S* eminent Dentists are, Desiraboile, No»
Denis, is a Notary-public, who under- 154, Gaierie de Pierre, Palais Royal—
stands English, ahd frequently trans- Dubois de Chemant and Son, No. 7,
acts business for the British Nation ; Rue Vivienne — Durruthy, No. 27,
and Messrs. Allen, No. 14, Rue de Rue de Grammont — Marmont, No. 7»
^Grammont—4e la Grange, No. 27, Rue Beaujolois, Perron du Palais
Boulevard des I (aliens — Mills and Royal — and Theault, No. 15, Rue
Ounning, No. 1 2, Rue du Faudourg Vivienne.
S. Honori — and Sloper, No. ] 2, Place The prices at the Opera, or jdca-
Dauphine, are English Sdicitors. demie Roy ale de Musique, are as fol-
Messrs. Oalignani, Librarians, i?«« lows: Balcony, each person, ten franc3
Vivienne, No. 18, sell French, English, — First row of boxes, seven francs and
Italian, Spanish, and German Books, ten sous — Second row of boxes Tfront),
together with travelling Maps' for the same price — Third row (frontjl,
every part of Europe ; and have Read- six francs — Fourth row, three francs
ing Rooms, and a lar^e Circulating and twelve sous — ^parquet, three francs
liibrary. They publish every morn- and twelve sous •.
-ing, Sundays excepted, an English The prices at the Theatre Fran<;ais
Newspaper ; the price of which is, for are : Balcony, and first row of boxes,
one month, in France, 9 fr. 50 c. ; out each person six francs and twelve sous
of France, 10 fr. — ^for three months, — First gallery, five francs — Parm
to France, 25 fr. ; out of France, 26 terre, two francs and four sous.
fr;— for six months, in France, 46 fr. ; The Messageries Royales^ or Pi^l-
out of France, 48 ir, — for twelve gence-Office, is in the i?M^ JVo/re-Z)a»iJ?
months, in France, 88 fr. ; out of des Victoires, No. 22 : and from this
France, 92 fr. Subscriptions aire re- office Diligences go periodically tp
ceived by every Bookseller, and Di- every Town in France situated on the
rector of the Post-ofiices, through- great roads.
out France, Italy, Switzerland, and The Offices of the Coohe d*eau de
Germany : they must be paid in Haute Seine are situated on the Q%Lau
advance. Dauphin, lie S. Louis, No. 6 — Port S*
Mr. Roberts, Surgeon and Apothe- Paul, No. 8 — and Rue de Bretonvit'
cary to the British Embassy, resides Hers, No. 1.
iBt No. 23, Place. Vendome ; where . Voituriers, returning from Paris to
English Medicines may be purchased Switzerland and Italy, may frequently
at the London Dispensaiy. ' Neret be met with at the Hdtel de Toulouse,
and Co., Apothecaries and Chemists, Rue GU-le-Coeur, No. 6, near the
No. 309, Rue 5. Honori, sell English Pont S. Michel ; and at the Hotel de
medicines, and prepare prescriptions Montauban, in the same street ; and
in the English manner : and English persons going to Switzerland, or Itjaly,
Patent Medicines are sold at No. 19, would of course be able to make a
Rue Vivienne, and prescriptions care- better bargain with these men, than
fully prepared. Mr. Tupper, an Eng- with a French Voiturin.
lish Surgeon, resides in the Rue de la The Voituriers belonging to Dejean,
Paix ; and the only English Cupper ^md those belonging to Emery, may
at Paris, Mr. Backler, resides at No. be heard of at the Hdtd de Toulouse';
• Operas are represented on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, and sometimes on SuxHfaiyy.
456
APPENDIX.
[Ch. II.
and their prices usoally are as fol-
lows:
For each inside PaBsengerfrom Lon-
don to (Geneva, dinner, supper, and beds
inclusive, twenty Louis-d^ors— ^From
London to Florence, thirty-six Louis*
d'ors— From Paris to Florence, twenty-
six Louis-d^ors — and from Paris to
Milan, twenty-two Loui«-d*ors.
The expense of breakfasts, and the
gratuities to Servants at Inns, are paid
by the Passengers.
Each Passenger is allowed a cwt. of
luggage.
GEKEBAL POST-OFFICE.
The office where letters are franked,
is opened at seven in the morning,
during summer, and eight during
winter. Letters for foreign Countries
must be franked, and letters for France
put into the post, before two*
The Poste-Restante is open from
eight in the morning till seven in the
evening.
Letters from Great Britain arrive
on Sunday, Monday, Thursday, and
Friday.
Letters for Great Britain go every
Monday, Tuesday, Friday, and Satur-
day, and must he franked to Dover *.
Letters for the hereditary dominions
of the Emperor of Austria, and like-
wise for Austrian Italy, go on Mon-
days, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Sa-
turdays, and must be franked.
Letters for Spain and Portugal go
on Tuesdays and Saturdays, and must
he franked.
Letters for Switzerland go on Mon-
days, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Sa-
turdays, via Basle ; on Mondays, Wed-
nesdays, and Fridays, via Porentniy ;
and on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sa-*
turdays, to Geneva, Lausanne, the
Valais, ^c, and must he franked.
Letters go daily, without being
franked^ to the Netherlands, Prussia,
lUl the German States not belonging
to the Emperor of Austria, Denmark,
Sweden, llussia, and Poland ; on
Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays,
to the kingdom of Sardinia ; and on
Mondays, Wednesdays, and Satoidays^
to Nice.
Letters for Parma and Piaoenza go
on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Satur-
days, and must he franked ; and let-
ters for southern Italy go on the same
days, without being franked.
Letters and parcels of particular
consequence are ensured, on the pay-
ment of double postage. Money Uke-
wise may be conveyed with safety, per
post, on the payment of five per cent.
PETITE-POSTE.
The Petite-Poste bags are to be
found in the Rue des Mauvaises^Pa^
roles. No. 12 — the Rue des Ballets S.
Antoine, No. 1 — the Rue du Grand-
Chantier, No. 7 — the Rue Beaure-
gard, No. 11 — the Rue Neuve-du-
Luxemboua'g, No. 3 — the Rue de
Vemeuil, No. 20 — ^the Ru£ de Conde,
No. 8 — ^the Rue des Fosses-Saint- Vic-
tor, No. 35, ^c, S[C. The postage,
per letter, is three sous in Paris, and
four sous in the environs ; and the
letters are taken out of the bags, and
distributed every two hours -f.
ROUTE FROM PARIS TO GENEVA
THROUGH FOKTAIKEBLEAU AND
DIJON.
1 Villejuif
H Fromenteau
l} Essonne
l| Ponthiery
I ChaUly
I I Fontainehleau
3 Fossard
1 Villeneuve-la-Guyard
\\ Pont-sur-Vonne
14 Sens — A third horse, for the six
^inter months, both going and
returning.
IJ Villeneuve-sur-Vonne
1 Villevallier
1 Joigny
\\ Bassou
2 Auxerre — ^A third horse, for the
six winter months, both going
and returning. An extra quar-
• The postage of a common-sijied letter for f Laundresses St Paris charm nearly the
England Is fourteen sous; and tnm England same price as fai London; but penonS who r*-
twenty-four sous: but the French Post-office side In the provincial Towns of France may
governs ite charges according to the weight of ge( their yne(t wasl}ed very reasonably.
Fhance.] routes to PONTARLIER A^fD GENEVA. . 457
ter of a poflt is. paid on quitting
Auxerrd.
1 Si. Bris — ^A third horse, for the
six winter months, both going
and returning.
2 Vermanion
2i Lucy-le-Boit — A third horse, for
' the six winter months, both
going and returning.
1 Avallon
2J Rfmvray — A third horse, all the
year, from Avallon to Rouvray ;
and vice versd^ during the six
winter months.
2 Maison-neuve — A third horse all
the year from Maison-neuve to
Rouvray ; but not from Rouvray
to Maison-neuve.
2 Vitteaux
\\ La Chaleur — A third horse all
the year from Vitteaux hither,
but not returning.
\\ Pont-de-Pany — A third horse all
the year from this place to La
Chaleur, but not returning.
2i Dijon — An extra quarter of a
post is paid on quitting this city.
2 Genlis
1 } Auanmne — A third horse, for the
six winter months, both going
and returning.
2 Dole
2i Mont 'SOUS -Vattdrey — A third
horse, throughout the year, both
going and returning.
2J Poligny
1^ Montrond — A third horse,
throughout the year, going, but
not returning.
1} Champagnole
1^ Maison-neuve {Jura) — A third
horse all the year, both going
and returning.
1 J 5'. Laurent (f/«ra)-— A thifd horse
all the year, both going and re-
turning : a fourth horse going,
but not returning.
IJ Morez — A third horse all the
year, both going and retuniing.
IJ Les Rousses — A third and fourth
horse all the year going, but not
returning.
1} X*a Vattay
2 Gex — This is the last French
Post. A third and fourth horse
all the year from Qex to La
Vattay ; but not returning.
2 Geneve — A third horse through-
out the year from Geneva to
642 Gex, but not returning.
The price of post-horses between
Geneva and Gex is the same aa
in France *.
The road through Dijon and Po-
ligny to Geneva having been already
described, it is needless to add any
thing further on the subject except
this, that Travellers ought not to at«
tempt passing the Jura during winter,
nor very early in the spring, lest
their progress should be impeded by
snow.
ROUTE FROM PARIS TO PONTAR-
I.IER AND JOUONC ; OK THE
WAY, THROUGH YVERDON AND
BERNE, TO LAUSANNE AND GE-
NEVA -f*.
38| Dijon, through Auxerre.
2 Genlis
1| Auxonne
2 Dole
2i Mont-souS'Vaudrey
2 Mouchard
1 Salins
2^ Levier
2^ Pontarlier,.. .Frontier of France.
2,\ c7(m^n«...Frontier of Switzerland.
671 posts.
ROUTE FROM LYONS TO GENEVA,
BY CERDON AND 8. GERMAIN-DE-
JO UX.
\\ Mirabel
\\ Mont-Luel
\% Meximieux
\\ S, Denis
1 S* Jean-le-Vieux
IJ Cerdon
ij S. Martin-dU'Fresne
1 Nantua
\\ S. Germain^-Joux
1 Chatillon
1} Avanchy
IJ Collonge
• See» under Appbndix, Switzkkland, the t Pestalozri'* celebrated School l>^at Yyer*
continuation of this route, from Geneva, by don; and four mile* from Berne, at Hofwyl, it
Ui« Simplon, to Milan, the FeUenberi; School,
^m
APCfifimiE.
Wk^n.
90| poets.
BOtTTZ FROM PARIS, THROUGH
I.YaK8, TO CHAKBERT.
29J Rouvray — See the route from
, Paris to Geneva, through Dijon.
1 Roche-en-Bemy
IJ Saulieu — A third horse for the
six winter months, both going
and returning.
1 J Pierre- Ecrite — A third horse all
the year, both going and re-
turning.
\\ Chissey — A third horse all the
year from Chissey to Pierre-
Ecrite ; but not returning.
2i Autuu — This Town contains
about 9,000 inhabitants ; and
lias \wo Triumphal Gates, The
Porte d'ArrouoC, and The Porte
S. Andri^ both of which merit
notice. Autun, once the capital
of the j^dui, was anciently called
AugtLstodunum. Here are se-
veral Inns, but U Hotel de la
Poste is that most frequented.
2 S. Emilan — A third horse all the
year from Autun to S. Emilan ;
and vice vers& for the six winter
months. A high and steep Hill.
Country beautiful.
1^ jS. Leger — A third horse all the
year from S. Leger to S. i^mi-
lan ; byt not returning.
1 Bourgnevf — A third horse all the
year, both going and returning.
' 1} Chalons-6ur-6a6ne — called, by
Caesar, Cabillonum. This City,
situated at the mouth of the
Central Canal, which unites the
Saone and the Loire, contains
12,000 inhabitants, and was con-
siderably embellished by Napo-
leon : its Quay is handsome ; and
Les trois Faisans is a veiy good
hotel. The Hotel du Pare, and
the Hotel d' Europe^ are like-
wise good inns. A Coche d^eau
sets out daily from Chalons for
Lyons.
2 Senecey
1^ Toumus — A third horse both
going and returning, for the six
winter mOAtbft. lm<» l^ Sau^
vage, and good.
2 S. Albin
2 AI4con — This City, anci^atly call,
ed MatiscOy contains 11,000 in-
habitants ; and has ,^ fine
Bridge, and a beautiful '^uay,
from which the Alps ^r^'^^^is-
coverable. The wine of M&con
is particularly celebrated ; and
UHotel d^Europe is an excpL-
lent inn.
2 Maiaotk-Blanche
1 1 S, George de Rogtiaina
If S^. Georges-a-Anse
H Lifoonest — A third and fourth
horse all the year going, but not
returning.
1^ Lyon^-^A third and fourth horse
all the year from Lyons to Limo-
nest ; but not from Limonest to
Lyons. This City is situated
Qear the site of the ancient Lng^
dunum, founded by Maniitius
Plaiicus, forty-two years before
the Christian era, on a Hill ris-
ing alK>ve the modern Town,
which contains about 100,470 in-
habitants, and is, ix^ point of
v^ealth, the second City of France.
It stands on a narrow piece of
ground, between the rivers Sa6ne
and, Jth^ne, anciently the J?Ao.
daniM and ^e Arar^ is encircled
by a rich and beautiful country,
and owes one of its Bridges,
with several other embellish-
ments, to Napoleon. The Quays
of the Saone and Rh6ne are
magnificent: and in the capa-
cious and handsome Place de
Bellecour is an Equestrian ISta-
tue of Louis XIV, in bronze,
greeted to supply that, by Pes-
jardins, which was destrdyed
during the Revolution. The
/ Hotel de Ville is a noble struc-
ture; and the Hotel Dieu one
of the best Hospitals in Europe ;
where an Order of Nuns, an
hundred and fifty in number,
perform the duty of Nurses;
watch over the Sick, administer
the medicines, and prepare the
diet*. The public Library, a
splendid Apartment, contains
above mi bu&dtred thtmsand yo*
- See Bbll's Gb»ervation$ t*pon Italy.
FaAir£^.]
LYONS— PONTLBE-BHAUVOISIN.
4a^
hnnei, eight hundred of which
ore vafaiahle manuscripts : and
among the objects best worth
notice in the pubUc Museum,
are the following: — Celebrated
Drawings, by Poussin ; the sub.
ject of which is the Seven JSa-
craments — several Paintings ;
namely — the Last Supper, by
Philippe de Oiampaigne .^ an
AUe^ory, by BuUens — a fine
Teniers— a Wild-boar Hunt, by
Sneyders — and the Resurrection,
by Le Brun. Among the Anti-
quities are — a taurobolic trian-
gular Altar, found on the »te of
the ancient City, and diaplaying
on one side a Bull's Head deco-
rated with fillets, on anothei* the
Head of a Bam, and on the
third the Crooked Sword used in
sacrifices. This Altar bears an
Inscription signifying that, at
midnight, on the fifth of the ides
of December, a Bull was offered,
as an expiatory sacrifice, by the
inhabitants of ^e Colony, for
the health of Antoninus Pius —
a bronze Fragment of a Horse^s
L^, peculiarly fine workman-
ship, and found in the bed of the
Sadne, where the rest of the
statue was discovered, but could
not be raised — a Mosaic Pave-
ment, representing Gymnastic
Exercises, and another repre-
nenting Chariot-races — the Table
. on which is engraved the Speech
made by the Bmperor Claudius,
in favour of Lyons — Sacrificial
Vases, j[e, which appear to have
belonged to a Temple of Isis —
i^cient Lamps — Lares — and an-
cient Armour — all found on the
site of Lu^unum. There are
This is a cheap place for permanent resi-
dence: but persons who wish to live cecono-
mically, either here; or in any oUier provincial
town of France, should lodge knd boatd in a
private house with a respectable French Family.
Board and lodging for one person seldom costs
more than thirty pounds sterling per annum.
House-rent in these towns is cheap ; as a com-
fortable family-residence may soinetimes' be
procured for twenty-five or thirty pounds per
annum. Mutton and beef are dieap; the
former being, on an average, from three to five
pence English the pound ; the latter somewhat
less. Bread is cheap. Fowls and ducks are
about two shillings^ English, the couple ; and
turkies from two to three AUUrigs each : ganm
also Is cheap and plentiful.
fimr Theatre^ at Iiy0i9«« and
several Inns ; L^ Hotil, de» ^m-
bas8adeur» — l^^ Hotel de Pro^
vence — i* Hoiel d* Europe —
V Hotel de iVorcE— and jL* Hotel
du Pare*. The last is the most
o<»nfortable ; .but none of t^em
are good. A Diligence goes
, daily in four days and ft half
during summer, and in four days
during winter, from this City to
Turin. A Diligence goes daily
to Marseilles ; and a Coohe d*eau
three times a week to Avignon.
The road from Bouvray to Lyons
is, generally speaking, tolerable.
An extra half-post is paid on
entering, and a post oa quit-
ting Lyons.
1| Bren — a third horse all the year
going, but not returning.
1 S, Laurent des Mures,
14 JjaVerpiilicre — This Village con-
tains a tolerable Iim.
1 \ JS our gain — A fine road from Br<Da
hither.
2 La Tour-du-Pin — This Town is
seated on the Bourbre.
1 Saz — Immediately beyond La
Tour-du-Pin, on the right, lies
the route to Grenoble.
IJ Pont'de-Beauvoisin — Frontier of
Francet. At Guingette, between
Gta and Pont-de-Beauvoisin,
the Bhone, the mountains of
Bugey, La Chartreuse, abd Sa-
voy, are all discoverable. Pont-
de-Beauvoisin is situated on the
Guieres.
2 Echelles — ^A third horse aU thp
year, both going and returning.
The Guieres, a torrent oyer
which a fine Bridge has beea
thrown, forms the Boundary
between France and Savoy ; an4
t Here, Travellers have to encounter #
French Frontier Cu&tom-house on one side of
the Bridge, and a Savoyard Frontier Customr
Jiouse on the other : at the latter, however, «
email fee secures baggage from examination j
and at the former, persons who travel in their
own carriage are treated with great civility*
and have very little trouble, 'rhe Inn under
the same root with the French Custom-house
is a dangerous sleeping place, several of the
bed-rooms being so situated that the beds they
contain are damp. There are two smaller Innt»
The Hdtel de Savoie, arid The HOtel dTltalte : hriA
at Echelles, (two posts from Pont-de-Beauvoi-
j^n on the Chambery side,} the Post-bovue
aflbrds good aeoommeoatlone. '
AFFENDDL
[OuH.
aboat mx milei firam tins Bridge
is tlie once terrific Pn—gc of
Lft CbDlle: bat the present
n»d bong bordered with astnong
dwarf wall, erery igypearance of
danger has Tanidied.
Echelks is seated on the Chneres,
whose waters are here seen issn-
ing impetnooaly from the moon'*
tains of La Chartreuse : and
about five hundred paces beyond
Echelles commences the cele-
brated Cltemm de la Groiie,
made by Charles Emmanuel,
seeond Duke of Savoy; and so
wonderfully improred by the
Emperor Napoleon, as to be at
this moment one of the safest
and most magnificent roads in
Europe. The Grotto from which
this road derives its name is of a
considerable length, lofty, wide,
and lighted by three lamps dur-
ing night.
1} S. ThibttuU-de-C<mjp^A third
and fourth horse all the year,
both going and returning.
Between the Chemin de la Grotte
and S. Thibault-de-Coux the
road traverses a lofty mountain ;
and near S. Thibault-de-Coux,
at a short distance from the mad,
is a fine Cascade, formed by a
stream of limpid water, which
falls perpendicularly from the
height of an hundred and twenty
ieet«
1} Chambery — ^A third horse all the
■ year, both going and returning*.
741 posts.
Chambery, the Capital of Savoy, is
pleasantly situated in a fertile valley
watered by the rivulets Albano and
Leisse; and contains about 15,000 in.
habitants. The Royal Palace is an
old Castle, not worth notice ; but the
Church opposite to it contains good
painted glass. The Promenade is
pretty ; and the new Theatre spacious
and handsome. The heights which
surround this little Metropolis are co-
vered with vineyards, pasturages, and
woods. The best Hotel, Le petit
Parisy is very comfortable; and La
Potte in 9L good Inn.
YAmiS TO I.TOir8,
AK]> lfOITI.1118.
movTC
THmOVGH
7i Pcmbnnebleau — See the route
fimn Paris to Geneva, through
Dijon.
An extra quarter of a post is paid
on quitting Fontaineblean every
way, the Moret-road excepted.
2 iVWnoifrs— This little Town is
w^-placed, wdl-built, and wa-
tered by the river Lcnng, and
the Canal of Briare. The new-
Bridge is handsome, and the Inns
are tolerably good.
1} La Croieiere
1 Fentenay
2 Meniargis
\\ La CommotSte
1 Nogent'SUT'Vemiswn
1^ Busnere
\\ Briare — This Town has given
its name to the Canal which
forms a communication between
the rivers Seine and Loire ; the
latter of which is seen, covered
with vessels, fnmi the hill above
Briare
2 Neuvy'-twr^Loire
11 Coene
l| Pomlly
l^ La Chariti — ^pleasantly situated
on the Loire.
14 Pouffues — Here are Mineral
Waters.
1 i Nevers — ^This City (anciently JVii-
vemum) is seated at the oonflu-
~ ence of the Nievre and the Loire,
over the latter of which rivers
there is a fine Bridge. The
Palace of the Dukes of Nevers
is considered as a good speci-
men of Gothic architecture. The
Choir of the Cathedral merits
notice. Principal Inns, L^Ho^
tel de France^ L* Hotel du Lion
d'*or ; ^c.
\\ Magny
1^ S, Pieri'e-le'Moutier
li S.Imbert
I \^ Villeneuve
I I Moulins — This Town, situated on
the AUier, is embellished by a
- magnificent Bridge; and con-
tains the Mausoleum of Mont'-
- See, under Appbndixi Italy, the coatinustion of this Route« from Chambery, brtl&s
MpnuCenU, to Turlm " / ^
PftAVCZ!.]
VIENNE— TALENCE.
461'
morency^who was beheaded under
Louis. XIII. It stands in the
College Royal, Best Inns, L*Al-
lier ; L'Ecu ; and Le Lion d*or.
In the environs of Bressol, a
village near MouUns, there is a
considerable quantity of petrified
wood.
2
2 Varennes — About noon the fa-
mous mountains, called Puis de
Dome and Mont (Vor^ are disco-
verable from this Town.
\\ S, Girand — The Inn here is a
good' one.
\\ La PcUisse
ij Droiturier
1 S. Martin — A very high situa-
tion. The road near this Town
exhibits fine landscapes.
I La Pacaudi^re
1 I S. Germain PEpinasse
I^ Hoanne — Hence to Lyons the
road is very hilly. At Roanne
the Loire becomes navigable.
Best Inns, L* Hotel de Flandres^
and L* Hotel du Renard,
2 S, Symphorien
1^ Pain-Bouchain
li Tarare — Peasants usually keep
oxen at the foot of the mountain
of Tarare, to aid carriages in
ascending. Fine views of the
Alps between Tarare and Lyons.
1^ Amas
2 Salvigny
I I Lyon*
60^ posts.
ROUTE FROM LYONS, THROTTGH
AVIGNON AND AIX, TO NICE.
] S. Pons
1 S. Symphorien d^Oeon — ^A third
and fourth horse all the year,
both going and returning.
1 ^ Vienne — A third and fourth horse
all the year both going and re-
turning. An extra quarter of a
post is paid on entering, and on
- From La Palisse to S. G^rand a third horse
all- the year going, but not returning.—From
La Palisse to Droiturier a third horse all the
year going', but not returning. — From Droitu-
xier to S. Martin a third horse all the year,
both going and returning. From Pacaudi^re
to S. Martin a third horse all the year, going,
but not returning.— From Pacaudi6re to S.
Germain a third horse all the year, both going
and returning. — From Roanne to S. Sympho-
rien » third norse all the year, both going and
quitting Vienne. Thiy City,
once iSie Capital of the AUo-
broges, and made a Roman Co-
lony by Tiberius, contains sevei*al
Antiquities ; among which are
a square Building surroimded
with fluted Columns of the Co-
rinthian order, about thirty feet
high, capitals and bases inclusive,
and supposed to have been a
Temple dedicated toAugustus-*~
a Triumphal Arch^ raised in
honour of that Emperor — consi-
derable remains of an AmphU
theatre — and a quadrangular
Pyramid, reputed to have been
a Cenotaph erected by the IBio^
mans*f-.
The wine caWedCote-rotie, is made
near Vienne.
2 Auberive—A third horse all the
year, both going and returning.
1 Peage de RoussilUm — A third
horse for the six winter months,
both going and returning.
\^ S. Rambert
l^ S. Vallier — This Town, seated at
the confluence of the Oalaure
and the Rhone, contains a good
Inn.
If Tatn— celebrated for red and white
wine, called Hermitage,
2^ Valence — A third horse for the
six winter months, both going
and returning.
Valence, called Valentia by the
Romans, contains a University,.
and an Edifice, now made into
a Church, which is supposed to
have been originally built by the
Romans. Pius VI, died here.
Best Inns, La Poste^ and L^Ho^
tel Martin,
l^ La Paillasse
1^ ^Lbriol
1^ Derbi^res
1^ Montelimart — The Post-house
here is one of t^e best provincial
inns on the Continent.
2 Donzere — A third horse all the
Tetuming.->From S. Symphorien to Pilin-Bou-
chain a third horse all the year, going, but not
returning. — From Tarare to Pain-Bouchain a
third horse all the year, going, but not retum-
ing.^From Amas to Salvigny a third horse all
the year, both going and returning.
t Pontius Pilate, after havfaig been deprived
of the Ofiice of Procurator of Judca, on ac-
count of his malpractices, and banished to
Vienne, or its vicinity, died there, by his own
hands.
APB£NmX«
IOl It
year, 'both going atnd Yetnming.
This Town contains a good Inn ;
and the wines of the neighbour-
hood are excellent.
2 LaPulud — ^A third horse through,
out the year from La Palud to
I>onzere.
y^ Morfuu — ^A third horse through,
out the year, both going and
returning.
1^ Orange — remarkable for ft Tru
umphaJ Arohy ancient, and al-
most entire.
S Swrgttes — A third horse through-
out the year, both going and
returning.
1 1 Avignon — This City, seated on
the left bank of the Rhone, and
built in the Italian style, was
anciently called Avenio : it con-
tains 23,000 inhabitants, ftnd a
ooDsiderable number of hand-
some edifices ; the most strikiilg
of which is the Cathedral. In
the Church of the Cordeliers,
now destroyed, were the Mau-
soleum of the gallant Crillon,
and the Tomb of Laura. The
spot which the latter occupied is
distinguished by a cypress, sur-
rounded with the ruins of the
Church, and enclosed in grounds
belonging to a gardener. Francis
I, order^ the tomb of Laura to
be opened, and found there a few
small bones, and a leaden box
containing ill-written Italian
poetry. The HStei d* Europe^
at Avignon, is an excellent Inn ;
and The Hotel de Pitrarque et
Laure^ between Avignon and
Vaucluse, is celebrated by Tra-
vellers for its dinners, consist-
ing of excellent trout and other
fish.
The Fountain of Vauduse is within
a few miles of Avignon. .
2\ S* Andiol — Between this place
and Avignon a fine wooden
Bridge has been lately thrown
over the Durance, anciently
DruenHa ; a rapid river, which
Travellers were formerly com-
pelled to cross in a ferry, some-
times at the risk of their lives.
1} Organ — The Inn here is good.
•2 Pont-Hoyal— The country, from
S. Andiol hither, is, generally
speaking, flat and uninteresting.
2 Sr Canat
2 Aix — A third horse, throughout
the year, both going and return-
ing.' The two last stages are
hiUy.
Aix, anciently called AqtUB Sextia^
and the Capital of Provence,
stands in a spacious plain, wa-
tered by the Arc, is handsomely
built in the Italian style, and
contains 23,700 inhabitants.
The Mineral Waters, and Hot
Baths here, have long been cele-
brated. The Cathedral m^-its
notice; as that part GaIled>*jLa
Rotonde, is adorned with Co-
lumns which once belonged to a
Temple of Veista : the Doors of
this Church are finely carved ;
and the College-Chapel is embel-
lished with an Annunciatioh,
and a Visitation, by Puget.
Aix is a cheap Town for penna^
nent residence : its best Inns are,
L* Hotel du Cours^ VH6tel dee
Princes^ and La Mule Blanche.
An extra half-post is paid on quit-
ting Aix.
1} Banettes
\\ La Grande Pugkre
2| Tourves — A third horse all the
. year, both going and returning.
Between La Orande-Pugiire and
Tourves there is a steep Hill;
and the whole road from Aix to
the last-named Post is at times
rough and rotten.
1} Brignolle» — This Town is plea*
santly situated between th^ven
Carandn and Issole. A third
hoi-se, during the six winteir
months, both to go and return.
1| Flassans — A third horse all the
year, both going and returning.
1 Luo^A. third horse all the year,
both going and returning. The
road from Brignolles hither is
good. The country abounds wiUi
olives, vineyards, and corn.
1} Vidauban
1 1 Muy — A third horse all the year,
both going and returning.
2 Frejus — A third horse all the
year, both going and returning.
Frejus, called by the Romans Fo'
rum Julii, still exhibits vestiges
of its ancient splendour; namely,
one Arch of the Port made by
Csesar, and the ruins «f an Aq\
Abiakcx.]
ANTmES, 4i€.
4»
duet^ ^c. : l>ot xrkBt must always
render thiA town memorable is,
that Na|>oIeon landed hereon his
return from Egypt; embarked
here, when banished to Elba;
and lajided again, not far hence,
after quitting that Island.
The country round Frejus is mag-
nificently- wooded.
S Lestrelks — A third horse all the
year, both going and returning.
The Mountains from which the
last-mentioned Post derives its
name may almost vie in height
'• with the Alps; and are richly
clothed with myrtles, arbuti, and
a great variety of other flowering
shrubs. These mountains dis-
play beautiful scenery.
9 Cannes — A third horse all the
year, both going and returning.
This is the precise' spot where
Napoleon landed in 1815.'
% Antibes — A third horse all the
year, both going and returning.
Antibes, anciently called Aniipolis,
and celebrated for the elegance
of its Port^ which is adorned
with circular Arcades, somewhat
in the style of the ancient Port
of Ostia, likewise contains Ruins
of an Amphitheatre.
4* Nice — A third horse all the year.
0O| posts.
The country between Antibes and
Nice is an extensive plain near
the Mediterranean sea, embel-
lished with hedges of pomegra-
nates, myrtles and aloes; and
watered by the Var, which di-
vides France from the dominions
of the King of Sardinia. Tra-
vellers going to Nice were for-
merly obliged to ford the Var,
an operation which was always
unpleasant, and often dangerous ;
but a long wooden bridge is now
thrown over that torrent.
AOtJTE FROM LYONS TO AVIGNON,
BY WATER t.
Families who wish to descend the
Rhone from Lyons to Avignon, may
- The distance, according to the French Post-
book, is four posts Arom Antibes to Nice; but
the Italian Post-books call it only 2^ posts.—
See* under Appenpix, Italy, the oontinu-
atkm of this Route from Nice to Genoa.
either take die Cache iTeau to them-
selves for ten Louis-d^ors, or perhaps
less, the expense of putting a carriage
on board, and disembarking it at Avi-
gnon inclusive ; or they may, for the
same price, hire a private boat. Fami-
lies who quit Lyons about noon, arrive
before six in the evening at CordreuU;
Where it is usual to sleep. The views
on each side of the river, between
Lyons and Cordreuil, are beautiful.
The next day's voyage is to Valence,^
between which Town and Cordreiil
the views are enchanting. A magni-
ficent chain of lofty rocks clothed with
vineyards, and crowned with ruins of
ancient castles, form the great feature
of every landscape ; while, here and
there, a small village, at the water's
edge, and sometimes a large town in
a valley between the hills, adds to the
richness of the scenery. Deserted
Chateaux, and Convents, placed on
the pinnacles of craggy rocks, present
themselves at every turn of the river ;
and these rocks frequently appear in
such wild and extraordinary shapes,
that they might easily be mistaken for
castles with giants striding on their
battlements. This scenery is render-
ed doubly beautiful by the immense
breadth, peculiar clearness, and great
rapidity of the Rhone. Fa^ne^ (where
the Post-house, a tolerably good Inn, is
the usual sleeping-place on the second
night), commands a distant view of
the Alps, and stands directly opposite
to a picturesque rock, crowned by the
remains of a castle. The third day's
voyage displays sublime views of the
Alps ; and early in the afternoon Tra-
vellers reach the Pont S. Esprit;
passing under the middle arch, with-
out experiencing, in consequence, any
disagreeable sensation. This cele-
brated Bridge, three thousand feet in
length, is built with consummate skill
and beautiful simplicity.
The Inii at S, Esprit (the usual
sleeping-place on the third night), is
good ; and the voyage hence to Avi^
ffnon^h accomplished in four hours the
next morning. There are two Castles,
opposite to each other, not far from the
Pont S. Esprit, ' which form a pictu-
t The road from Lyons to Avignon and
Marseilles being frequently In bad condition, it
is advisable for Travelleirs to go down Uie
Rhone, if possible*
464
APPENDIX.
[Ch. It-
resque view: but n^u* Avignon, fhe
omintry is flat, and the prospects are
uninteresting.
BOCTE FAOK ATIGXOK TO KISME8
AKD MOKTPELLIER.
2| Ira Bigude de Saze — A third
horse all the year, both going
and returning.
2§ La Foux — ^A third horae all the
year, both going and returning.
\\ S. Gervasy — A third horse fdl
the year, both going and return-
ing.
IJ Nismes — This City, anciently
called N'ematisus^ and said to
contain about 40,000 inhabitants,
is ornamented with handsome
modem buildings; but more par-
ticularly worth seeing on account
of its Antiquities, one of which,
called La Maison Qutarrie^ is
supposed to have been a Corin-
thian Temple, built by Grecian
artists, and dedicated, by the
people of Nismes, about the year
of Rome, 7^4, to Caius and Lu-
dus. Sons of Agrippa. This
splendid specimen of ancient
architecture is in high preser-
vation. It has a spacious Por-
tico, supported in front by six
fluted Corinthian Columns, and
three on each side, reckoning
those in the angles twice. Seve-
ral Steps lead to this Portico,
which is the only entrance to the
interior building, and the only
opening for light. The Temple
has thirty columns; ten being
detached from the walls, and
twenty joined to them. The '
Columns are twenty-seven feet
three inches high ; and two feet
nine inches in diameter. The
totfJ length of the Edifice i^
seventy-seven feet; its breadth
thirty-eight feet six inches ; and
its elevation sixty-four feet. The
Cornices and Friezes, which ex-
tend the whole length of the
building, are finely executed; as
likewise are the Capitals ; par.
ticularly those parts representing
olive-leaves. Another ancient
Fabric peculiarly well preserved
is the Amphitheatre ; the exte-
rior Walls of which, the Por-
ticoes, Columns, Pilasters, and
Architectural Ornaments are
nearly perfect. The form of this
building is oval ; its greatest dia-
meter four hundred and forty
French feet; its smallest three
hundred and twenty ; its cir-
cumference eleven hundred ; and
its height seventy. Two rows
of Porticoes form two circular
Galleries, one above the other ;
each being composed oi sixty
Arcades, sepai'ated by the same
numbier of Tuscan Pilasters in
the first rs^ige, and of Doric
Columns in the second. The
principal entrances are four in
number ; and one of them pre-
sents a magnificent Portico,
crowned with Bulls* Heads.
The circular benches for Spec-
tators,* said to have been thirty-
two in number, are from eighteen
to twenty inches broad. The
whole Edifice is constructed with
immense blocks of stone; and
those seen to project from the
top of the outer wall are pierced
through in the centre, for the
purpose of receiving the masts
which supported the awning. A
Fountain^ near the ruins of the
Temple of Diana, merits ob-
servation. This Spring rises in.
a Basin, the diameter o£ which,
is about seventy feet, the depth
twenty-four ; and sometimes,
without any apparent cause, the
water suddenly encreases, till it
becomes a considerable river. A
road behind the Fountain leads
to the Turris Magna^ so called
because it was the largest of the
ninety Towers belonging to the
Walls of the ancient Town. Its'
form is pyramidical ; and (beings
several stories high) it is sup-
posed to have served as a Pharos.
Not far distant from this Tower
is an ancient Gate, discovered in
1701, and denominated La Ports
de Cesar. It is built with large
blocks of stone, consists of four
Arches, and bears an Inscrip-
tion signifying, that NemausuS
owed its Wails and Gates to
Augustus. Another ancient
Gate, called La Porte du Nord^
may be seen at Nismes. The
TAAVCt.] PONT-DE-GARD— M6NTPi:LLIER— JVtARSEILLES. . 465
Palais de la Justice is a hand-
some modern structure, re-
markable for the Ck>lumns which
rapport its Pediment, the superb
Hall which separates the several
Courts, and the elegant manner
in which each Court is decorated.
Hotels, Le Louvre^ and Le LuX"
embourg.
Between three and four leagues
from Nismes is thePont^^Gard^
an ancient Aqueduct, which
crosses the river Gard, or Gar-
don, and extends twenty-five
English miles, uniting two moun-
tains. The superstructure con-
sists of three ranges of Arches
resting on each other. The
channel through which the
water passes is four feet three
inches in breadth ; five feet six
inches in height ; and lined with
the Opus Sfipninum, The ranges
of Arches are eight hundred and
seventy-four feet in length at
thd upper part; one hundred
and fifty-eight feet in elevation
from the level of the water of
the Gard; and twenty-two feet
seven inches in breadth. The
blocks of stone which compose
this stupendous Fabric are im-
mense ; and the whole work is
one of the most astonishing pro-
ductions of antiquity. History
does not say by whom it was
erected ; but the initials ^' A.
M. A." still distinguishable on
it, are supposed to mean Aque^
ductus JSlii Adriani.
1) Uchau — An extra quarter of a
post is paid from Nismes hither.
1| Lunel — celebrated for its wines.
l| ColombUres
1$ Montpellier— This Town, anci-
ently called Agaifhopolis^ and
supposed to contain 33,000 in-
habitants, has long been famed
for its climate; vmich, thoug^h.
unfavourable to weak lungs, is
in other respects salubrious.
Rain seldom falls here: snow
and fogs are equally uncommon;
but the marin^ or sea-wind, pro-
duces damp: and the vent de
• The vent ds ftiMprevails so much, in all the
fouthern port of France, as to render the
dtaurte prqlttdicial ' to oonsoxnptiTe penons:
and besiaeg this objectioD to the above-men*
hise^ which continually visits
Montpellier, is of all winds the
most piercing*. The principal
Hotels are Le CheveU hlanc^
VHoteldu Midi, Le petUParis^
and LePdlais Royal: but persons
who purpose to reside any length
of time at Montpellier should
hire a ready-furnished apart-
ment, and have their dinner
from a Traiteur, Here are a
TheatrCy an Aqueduct, and seve-
ral pleasant Promenades. Mont-
pellier and Grasse are famous for
the best perfumes in France.
The Mason-Spider is an extraor-
dinary insect, which NaturaUsts
report to be found only near
— i— > Montpellier.
I4| posts.
ROUTE FBOM AIX TO MARSEILLES
AND TOULON.
2 Le Grand-Pin — An extra quarter
of a post is paid on quitting Aix.
A third horse all the year, both
going and returning.
2 Marseille — Between Le Grand-
Pin and Marseilles, and about
half a league from the latter, is
one of the finest views in France.
Marseilles, anciently called Mas^
silia, was founded B. C. 639, by
the inhabitants of Phocaea, in
Asia Minor; whoemig^ted from
their country to avoid the yoke
of Cyrus. The wisdom of its
laws, its commercial pursuits,
and its fidelity to the Romans,
rendered Massilia in early ages
a place of great consequence i
but by espousing the cause of
Pompey against CsBsar, it in-
curred the displeasure of the lat-
ter; and was punished with loss
of independence, wealth, and
power. Ithasacapaciousandsafe
Harbour for merchant vessels,
though not for ships of war ; as
the greatest depth of water is
only four fathoms. The entrance
to the Town, by a magnificent
Promenade, called Le Cours, is
very striking. The Hotel de
tloiied country, there is another, of ahnoat
equal magnitude, namely, the natives still
retain the character given them by Horace;^
«< Novitiue r^bm infidetta AUobrox,'*
2 H
46<
APPBKDIX.
ick.ih
. Vilky a splendid Stnicture, was
built b^ Puget ; and in the Great
tJounoiloCbamber are two paint-
ings by Senre, of the Plague at
JVIaneulea) La Consigne con-
tains a JSastO'Tilievo^ by Puget,
representing the Plagueat Milan;
and a celebrated picture by l)avid,
called the Plague of S. Roch.
The Laegttretto is considered as
the best in jSurope : one of the
Theatre* deserves notice i and
the Jtnns are good *« Marseilles
18 supposed to have upward of
111,000 inhabitants. Its Quay
and Environs are beauti f^ul $ but
this I'owD, during summer, is
infested by swarms of musqui-
toes ; and In autumn soorpions
are sometimes found in the
houses, and even in the beds.
An extra half-post is paid on quitting
Marseilles.
2 Avhaghe
IJ Cvies
i Beautset--^ tliird horse all the
year, both going and returning.
2 Toulon— A third horse, during
the six winter months, frmn
I'oulon to Beausset, but not re-
- ; ■ turning.
\\\ posts.
Toulon is supposed to contain 28^000
inhabitants ; and its Harboui^, one of
the best in Europe, is appropriated to
the receptioii of line of battle shipsb
The Naval Arsermif the Docks ,* (par.
ticularly that constructed by Grog-
na^l) the Forges f Sail^ Rope^ and
Maet-houaetf theMHiUaryStore^hotiae;
Port Jouberi; the H6tel de ViUe, with
two oolossal Perses, in stone, by Puget ;
and the Hopital, de la Marine, under
the direction of the Sisters of Mercy,
who, like the saone description of Nuns
at Lyon, ^rform the duty of nurses,
are the objeets meet worthy of notice
in this City* Here are several good
Hotels.
Near Toulon is the small Town of
ffpiree, opposite to some I^ands of
the same name (anciently called the
SUethadee), and about one league dis-
tant from the Sea. This Town is
■o much celeblated fcv the excellence
of its climate during winter, that
Valetudinarians are sent hither froBi
- VH6ui des AvOKumdeurt, uA VHitei dm
EmpenwMt are two oC the bwt*
all parts of France ; but during the
summer months it is particularly un-
wholesome. Oraiages, lemons, and
pomegranates, grow most luxuriantly
at Hyeres in the natural ground ; and
sugar-canes are said to do so likewise,
when prqperly cultivated.
BOUTE FROM PARIS T^ BOllSEAUX
▲KB HAfOirlrilk
\ Croiif de Bemis
Lenjumeau
i Arpajon
I Estrechif
Etampee
Montdeeir
i AngermUe
I Thimry
\ Artenay
CheviUy
I Orl^ns^Thii City (andently
AureliatU) eonteins abent 40,000
inhabitants f. The (Oaihedral
merits observation^ khA the en-
virons are delightfult The
Faubourg d'OUvet cottitnuni-
oates with the City by a cele^
hmted Bvidfek Orleans is em-
bellished with ft Univetsity, an
Academy of gcienees^ and a
public Library. The H^tel de
Ville contains a portrait of the
Maid of Orleans. AneMti^half
post is paid on quitting Orleans,
and mi entering, by the way of
Fert^ S. Aubin. Jnns, L*lIotel
de J^ranM^ ^d
2} Ferii S, AtMn
- 2j Motte-Beu/Hfon
1 iVbtlttfs
1| SalMt
1 j La Loge
2 Vierzon — A smsd), l»ut ancient
Town.^-.f nns^ £r# €¥eim blanohe^
H Matsay
8 Vatan
\\ Epine^Pm£i>Mn
2 ChAteauitmit^l^his TtfWtk ih situ-
ated in an efttetisive atid bdautifal
plain. Best Ittift) 5. CU^ierine,
2 Loftier
1| ArgentoH
fi Fay
2} Ville-au-Brun
2j Moi^terol
t Orleans li a ranarkably disip toum Ibt
Pjiaitc^*] limoges^perigueux— bordeaux^bayonne. «e7
2 Chantelouhe
2 Maison-rouge
H Limoges — This City (aaciently
called Lemomeea) contains 22,000
inhabitants. The ci-devant Abbey
of S, Martial is interesting on
account of its antiquity. Best
Inn, L' Hotel d»Periff9rd» An
extra quarter of a poet is paid gn
quitting Limoges.
1} ALee
2| Chains
li La Coquille.
2 Thiviere,
1} Palieaont
2 J Perigueux— This City, (anciently
called Pretrocorii) is famed for
delicious meat-pies. Here are
some Roman Antiquities^ and
near the town is a Fountain^
remarkable for the daily flux and
. reflux of its waters. Be»( Inn,
V Hotel de Franoe.
2\ Massoulie
2 Mucidan
Mont-ponf *
S, Medard
Liboume
S. Pardotuv
Carbon-blanc
Bordeaux — An extra half-post is
paid from Carbon-blanc hither.
BoMeaux (anciently called Bur-
digahi)y one of the largest, richest,
and habdsomest cities in France, is
seated on the Garonne, and supposed
to contain 9d,000 inhabitants. The
objects best worth notice are — the
Cathedral^ ornamented with two lofty
Gothic Spires — the Exchange — the
Theatre — the Quays — and She re-
mains of Roman Antiquities, The
wines of Bordeaux are excellent ; al-
though the climate, during winter,
ha^ the reputation of being foggy,
damp and cold. Best Inn, Le Mare-
chal de Richelieu.
\% Bouscaut-^An extra half-post is
paid OB quitting Bordeaux.
IJ Castres
• A third horse throughout the ymt at wtef
post, both going and returning, between Ois
team tthd Argenton.
A thfrd horse thrdugtMut the year ftom. Ar-
genton to Fay, but nM retiumiagi
A third horse all the year between Fay and S.
Pardoux, both goln^ and reinming.
A third horse for the six winter moliths» bot&
ffoing and returning, between Bordeaux and
Langon.
A thkd Wse all the year, both- going and
returning, between Langen and Captieiix.
2
2
n
2
2
IJ Cerons
H Langon
2 Bams — Inn, Le grand Puris,
24 CapOeuse
2 Poteau
2{ Roquefort
H Caloy
l| Mont-de-Marsan — Imis, L*E'
toile, ^0.
IJ Campagne
2 Tortus
H Pmtons
l| S. Paui-l9$^iku»
8 S^ Geom-s
2 €anion»
fi Ondres
1| Bayonne^Thts TdiWrk h finely
situated at the i»iiflu«Ace of
the Nive and the Addu^% The
Catfiedralis a venerabte Edifiole.
TraveUing-beds tlitty be piii:.
chased at Bayonne. Iiins,£'^j^
tel du grand C ^ mm ette i S.
Martin; ^c.
106 posts*.
AOTJTE FBOM PARIS TQ B&fiST.
2i Versailles — An extra half-post fs
paid on quitting this towiu
2 J Pont'Chartrain
1§ La Queue
li Houdan
1 Marollei
H Dreujp — Memorable fot the battle
of 1552^. under Charles IX.
Ij Nonancourt
ij Tillieres
l| Vemeuil — Memorable for the bat-
tle of 1424.
2 S* Maurice
2J Mortagne
2 Le-Mele-sur-Sttrthe
IJ MinUbroust
1} Aleuijon — An extra quarter of a
post is paid on quitting this town.
1^ S. Denis sur Sarton
l| Prez-en-Pail
2 Ribay
2| Mayenne
A thSi4 and finmh hme idi the year, both
foing and returning, between Captieux and
'oteau.
A thiird Yiotwt an the yeair, both going imd
returnins, between Poteau and Roquefort.
A thira horse aU the year, both going and
returning, and a fourth horse going, but not
returning, from Caloy to Mont-de-Manaa.
A third and fourth horse throughout the
year, both goingand returning, between Mont-
de-Marsan and JBayonne.
2 H 2
468
APPENDIX.
tCh^. It.
2 Martign^
2 Laral — This Town contains
15,000 inhabitants; there are
quarries of jasper in its vicinity.
Best Hotel, La Tete noire.
2i Gravelle
2 Vitr4 — This is a considerable
Town.
2 Ch&teau-bourg
H Noyal
ll Eennes— This City, supposed to
have 30,000 inhabitants, is the
ancient Candate:, called, under
the Roman Emperors, Urbs Re-
donis. The Public Library in
the HStel de Ville merits notice.
Best Inns, V Hotel de France,
and L^ Hotel de9 Voyageurs,
l\ Pad
l| Bedee
l| Montauban
2^. Broona
\\ LangtnUdre
2 LambtUle
2| S. Brieuc — This Town has a good
Port— Inns, La Croix blanche,
2 Chatelaudren
H Guingamp
21 Belleile-en-tirre
2 J Pontou
2 Morlaix—T^ Church of iST. D,
des Mere is a singular Edifice ;
the Hospital is a fine one, and
the Port considerable. V Hotel
de France is a good Inn.
2 1 Landivisiau
2 Landemeau
2J' Brest* — An extra half-post is
paid on entering this town, and
_ on quitting it.
75j^ posts.
Brest, anciently called Brivates^is
supposed to contain 27,000 inhabit-
ants ; and its Harbour, one of the
safest in Europe, is sufficiently capa-
cious to admit five hundred ships of
war. The Quags, the Arsenal, and
the Theatre, merit notice. The prin-
cipal Inns are, V Hotel de Provence ;
Le grand Monarque ; La Tout'tTAr"
gent ; and Le grand Turc. '
Another rosid from Brest to Paris,
through Lamballe, Del, Maienne^ and
Alen^on, is five posts shorter than the
road sdready described.
ROUTE FROM PARIS TO DUNKIRK.
11 Bourget
\\ Louvres
11 Chapelle-en-serval
1 Senlis
\\ Pont S, Maxence
1^ Bois-de-Lihus
l| Goumey
1 Cuvilly
1 Conchy-les'Pots
IJ Roye
I Fonches
1 Marcht-le-pot
1^ P^ronne— Inn», Hotel de S»
Martin, S[c.
2 Fins
]} Bonavy
IJ Cambray
l| BaC'Aubencheul
l| Douay— Inns, Hotel d^Europe^
^c,
2J Pont'h'Marcq
1^ Lille
2 Armentieres
l| BaiUeul
2\ Cassel
2i Berg-S.'Winox
1 Dunkerque
38^ posts.
Dunkirk, so called from originally
containing the Kirk of the Duns, is
supposed to have near 30,000 inha-
bitants. The houses are built with
uniformity, the Front of the Church
of S, Eloi merits notice, and the Quay
is a fine one. The best Inns are.
The Hotel d' Anglet^rre ; The Cheval
volant ; The Hotel de Flandres ; The
Hotel du Sauvage ; and The Hotel
du Nordic*
ROUTE FROM LILLE TO OSTEMTJ),
THROUGH YFRES.
' 2 Wameton
2 Ypres^ The Church of S. Martin
— and the Citnal of Bosingen^
merit notice.
2^ Diamude
3 Ostende — See (under " Appek*
j>ix, Germany") the route
from Vienna through Rati8l>oii
■ and Brussels to Osteud.
9^ posts.
- Post-nutsters are allowed to put on a t From Dunkerque to PariSf through ^mt«ntf«
«:hiTd hone at ahnost every stage between is 34 posts: and through $* Omar, Amu, and
'ontagne and 3rest. F^nmne, 37 posts.
Fravcx;.]
SOISSONS-^JEtEIMS-JSEDAN.
469
ROUTE FBOM LILL£ TO BRUSSELS.
1| Pont-a^Tressain
]} Toumay
2 Leuae
1^ Aih
1^ Enghien
1^ Brussels — See (under Appex-
Dix, Germany) the route from
Vienna, through Ratisbon and
— -> Brussels, to Ostend.
11 posts.
route from PARIS TO OSTEND,
THROUGH BRUSSELS.
]| Bourget
2 Mesnil-Ameiot
1 DammarHn — This place com-
znands.a fine view ; and the ruins
of the Castle are picturesque.
1} Nanteuil-Haudouin
1^ Levignen
2 Villers-Cotteretz
1| Verte-Feuille
1^ Soissons— Anciently called Sues^
Hones. The Cathedral^ and the
ci-devant Abbey of S. Medard^
where Louis le Debonnaire was
confined by his children, merit
notice. The environs of this
City are charming. An extra
half-post is paid on quitting
Soissons. — Inns, Le Lion roitgey
2 Vauraifis
2i Leum — Prettily situated on the
summit of a hill.
2} Marie
1^ Vervins
21 La Capelle
2 Avesnes
2 JWat*6ewj^tf— When Travellers are
obliged to send for horses to
I>onzies, they pay, in conse-
quence, an extra half-post.
2 1 Mons — The famous battle of
Genappe, which took place in
1792, was fought near Mons —
The Abbey de Wautru merits
notice.
1 Casteau
\l Braine-le-Comte
2 Halle
- Persons who ga from Bnuseli to Paris,
through Clenappe,valenciennest Mons, Cambn^f,
and S. Quentin, ghould visit, at the last-named
Town, the Ttmnei cut through solid rocks,
and paaeing^t^i^M miles under ground, to faci-
litate the Inland navigation firom Cambray to
1| Brussels — There is another road,
in distance 34^ posts from Bi*u8-
sels to Paris, through Valeih-
ciennes . Both roads are chiefly
paved, and tolerably good ;
though in some places they want
repair*.
1^ Asehe
ll Alost
1^ Quadregt
1 Gand
2 Alteren
2 Bruges
2 Ostende.
47} posts.
ROUTE FROM PARIS, THROUGH
REIMS AKD SEDAN, TO LIEGE.
12} Soissons — See the Route from
Paris, through Brussels to Os-
tend.
2i Braine
1^ Fismes
ij Jonchery
2 Reims — This Town is said to
have 30,000 inhabitants. The
Cathedral is a venerable Gothic
structure, with a beautiful Front,
The Church of S, Nicholas, the
PlacC'Royale, and some remains
of Roman Antiquities, merit no-
tice. At Courtagnon andJIfen,
in the neighbourhood of Reims,
a large number of fossUs are
continually discovered. An ex-
tra quarter of a post is paid on
quitting Reims.
2 Isle
.24 Bethel
1| Sauce-aU'Bois,
]^ Launoy
2^ Mezi^re8-.^n extra quarter of a
post is paid on quitting this
town. A third horse all the year
between Rethel and Launoy,
and Launoy and Mezieres.
2| Sedan — Here is a good Arsenal
and a Cannon-foundry. The
great Turenne was born at Se«
dan. Best Inns, La Croix d^or^
and La Croix d^argent.
the Capital. This Tunnel, one of the most
patriotic woflu of Napoleon, is well ventilated,
lighted by means of lamps, and usually pro-
vided with water about six feet deep. 1 1 admits
<nie barge only at a time, towed by men, who
have a commodious gaUei7 td walk in.
47a
APFBN0IX.
ieh.li.
8
9
2
45
Pmiizmti
Teim
Marcke
Bomzm
Nandrin
Laege^-^See (under ^^Appxkdix,
-Germany") the Route from
. Brussels, through Aix-la-Cha-
pelle and Liege, to Spa.
BOUTE FROM PARIS TO flTRAS-
BURGH, THROUGH CHALOSTS-SUR-
MARNE, S. DIZIER, BAR-LE-PUC,
NAKCT, LUNEVILLE, PHALZ-
BOURG, AK]> SAYERNE.
l^ Bondy — This Town gives its
same to the neighbouring forest.
2 CAt^-^-BetiPeen Park and Meaux
is a phiin, famed for the retreat
c^ the Swiss, iu IftS?, undef
Pfyfiiur, who esoorted Charles
IX, Catherine de Medids, 'and
the ladies of her court, in safety
to Paris, by cutting his way
through the army of their ene-
mies,
2 Meauat—^U Town stands in a
beautiful plain, watered by the
Mame) luid was the firet place
which deserted the party c^ the
league, and submitted to Henry
|V. oVer one of the gates are
these words J Henricum prima
fiffnovu Good cheeses are made
at Meauji. Inns, lA Sirene^
fM Cifoia d*or^ ^0.
1 La FerU'SOUB'^ouarre-r-A small
Town embellished with pretty
walks.
2 La Ferme-de-Pari*
1^ CA^teowTAttfrrsr The birthrplace
of La Foi^Udae. Inn, Le$ Ma-
vinierSf
Parojf
I J Dormana -. Inn^ Le Lion d^or.
1 Port'd'Bm$o»
2 JS^pemaj^— Famed for its wines^
2 Jdahiu
2 ChalonSi«ur-Mame-^the ancient
fhtro Cataiaunum^ contains two
remarkable edifices, the CeUhc'
dral built in the thirteenth cen-
tury ; and the HSiel de ViUe:
but what chiefly merits notice is
the Promenade called Le Jaitd,
Near this City Attila was de-
feated by the Fraaiki and Bo«
mans. Best Inns, La Cloche
d'or ; Le Patais-ltoyal ; l^i
Ville de Paris ; La Croix d'or ;
and La Ville de Nancy, An
extra quarter of a post ia paid
on quitting this town.
2 La ChoMisie
2 Fitry-le-Fran^ai9\^ Buik by
Francis I.
2 Longehaimp
\\ S, Dizter— Here the Mame be-
comes navigable.
}1 Saudrupt
l| Bar-le-Duc — ^Famous for sweet-
meats, trout, and excellent wine.
Inns^ Le Cygne^ Sf-o.
2 Idgny
1 S.Aubm
l\ Foid^Inn, UAigk Royai.
1^ Laym Saint- Remy
1| Toul — TkeprindipaiCkurehmetiU
notice. The wines of Tool »re
good.
1^ Felaine
1^ Nancy— This ftne Olty suffered
cruelly irom a battanen of Re-
publicans, who passed through it
in 1792, and destroyed all the
chefk-eTcBuw^ee of art they unfor.
tunately met with. The Place*
Moyale merits notiee, as do the
Twnbe of the ancient Dukes of
Lo^rain, in the ei^devamt Fran*
ciscan Church, The CMster of
the Franciscans au km seoours
contains ^e Grave of SianislatKi^
the great erah^iiiAev of thia
City. The theatre is prettf,
and the Hotel de petit Paris
and the Hotel Royal are the
principal Inns. An extra quar-
ter rx a pott is paid on quitting
Naficy.
2 Don bash
\\ LunwiUe
H Benitmenii
2 Blat wU
2 Hetnmg
1 Sarrffioury — Here the S&rre be-
comis navigable.
1 Hommortin
1 Phalzbcui^
l^ Saveme-^The road ' ove» ^e
mountaiL' of Saveme is much
celebrated, and does honour %q
human industry,
. 1| fVaateAftme
1| btenheim
FKAJfCB-l STRASBUBGH^TROYES— LANGRES, ^-c.
4fl
1^ Strasbourg.
60 J posts*.
Strasburgh (anciently called i^ffp^n*
ifitHifinm) contains dO,000 inhabitants.
Its Cathedral, denominated the Mun*
eter^ is a magnificent Qothic Pile, with
^nbeilishments of yarious ages. The
Choir was built during the reign qi
Charlemagne, andesca]^ the mischief
jvhich happened to this Church in th^
aleventh century. The Nave was ret
huilt in the twelfth century. Th<i
stupendous Belfry^ begun in 1239, was
?iot finished till two hundred years
afteiFwards. It is a wonderful struor
ture, four bupdred and si:(ty-pnje
English feet ^bov^ ground { a height
nearly equal to that of the great Pyr-
amid of Egypt. The Munster Clock
is a n^aiBter-pi^Ge oC j^he mechanical art,
and the interior of the Church Con-
tains fine spechAess of Painted Glass.
The Mmaseleum tf Marshal Saxe^ in
the Church of S. Thomaef the Mili-
tary Hospital, Barracks, and Stoi^^
hotbses, and the wooden Bridye tkroten
over the Rhine, deserve notice. In the
Arsenal is the Armou* df GttStavus
Adolphus of Sweden ; and on one of
the Islands formed by the Rhine is an
elegant Monument, erected by Na^-
leon to the memory of Genernl Desi^ix.
Strasburgh contains a Puhlio Library,
(open on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and
Saturdays,) and a handsome Theatre
built of stone. The best Inns are
VHotel de VEspHt ; VHotel de la
fleuTi La VUle de Lyoni J>nd La
Maisofh reuge.
1I0U9E FBOM PAXTS TO STBAS-
BUB6K, THKOtTGH THOYES, LAW-
GRES, VESOUL, BEFFORT, AND
1 Charenton
ij Grosbois •
1 Bfi0-Comt9>^Mobef$
Qviffnes
Mormani
H Nanffis
J\£aisonr4FQuge
Provins
f
- A thiidhoTseaUtbp y«a» betweta Ep«r-
nay and Jftalons. , „ . i.
Ditto toetveen S. Pisiec and Sau^rupt.
gitto between Saudr^pt a»d Bar-le-puc.
itto b9tWMa Ugny and S. Aubin.
2 Nogent'Sur- Seine
1 Ponl-sur<-Seine
H Granges
1| Grix
2| Troyes — This very old City Is
supposed to contain about 27)000
inhabitants. The Nave of t^e
Cathedral — the Church ef S.
Etienne — and the ChAteau
(once the residence of the Counts
of Champagne,) are the objects
best worth a Traveller's atten.
tion. The water here is scarcely
drinkable. An extra half, post
is paid on quitting Troyes.
Inns, L'H4telduMHM,4[c.
2\ Montierame
1^ Vaudaeuvre
2^ Bar-sur-Aube — Celebrated for
its wines.
1} Cohmbey
1 Suzennecourt •
2 Chaumont — The Front of the
College Church Is admired.
Best Inn, VArbre d?or*
2 Vesaignes
9 l/«n^rtfi^This is the highest-
situated Town in France. ^
veral Roman Antiquities have
been found here ; and ihe Pom
fisHle of the Choir of the Cathe^
drat appears to be the lesiaini
of a Pagan Temple. Inns,
L'EtQile, and La Com^te, the
•latter outside of the w»Bs.
1} Griffimottes
l| Fay -Billot
H Cintrey
li Combeau-fofitaine
l| Pon^-sur-Saone
l| Vesoul — Celebrated for its wines.
Principal Inns, Les Diligences ;
VAigle noir ; La Ttte d'or.
At Leugne^ a village to the east
pf Vei^ul, there is ^ famou3
Grotto. The Mineral Waters
of Luxuel are only six leftgi^es
from Vesoul.
1} Calmoutier
2 £«rtf— This Town is pecuHarf^
ritttsted OB aa Island formed by
a pond, and suivoiinded with
woods and mountains.
D»to between Velaine and Nancy.
mito between Blamonf Midjjeroteg'
Ditto between Saverne and WMsaOtoM*
A third bprae during the six winter montft*,
between IttenheJm ana Strasburgh.
m
APPENDIX.
[Ch. II,
2^ Champagney
2 JSe^or^— A strong Town. Prin-
cipal Inns, Le Luxembourg ; La
Ville de FersaUles; Le Sauvage.
2 Chavanes
2 AlOfirfc
!{
2 TroiS'Maisons
8 Sasle* — Frontier.town of Switz-
erlancl. See (under "Appendix,
Germakt'*) the route from
Augsburgh to Constance, Schaff.
Iiausen and Basle. Travellers
ought to avoid arriving late at
night here, lest the gates of the
town should be shut.
1 iS'. Louia-sotU'Huningtie
H Gros-Eempt
2 Bdntxenheim
Fessenheim
Nevf'Bristtck — Built by Louis
XIV. The Post-house is out
of the town.
2 JlfarArols^^m
2} Friesenheim
li Kraft.
2 Strasbourg — You drive through
the beautiful plains of Alsace,
74| and discover, at a great distance,
the Munster-Tower of Stras-
burgh,
ftOUTE FROM PARIS TO BE8AK-
(jOK THROUGH LAKGRE8.
34} to Langres — See " Route • from
Paris to Strasburgh, through
Troyes."
1| Lonjeau
3 Champlitte
2| Gray — A pretty Town. Princi-
pal Inns, La Ville de Lyon, and
Zje Chapeau rouge,
1-} Bonboillin
- Persons who like water-parties should, if
possible, go down the. Rhine to Strasburgh.
t A third horse all the year firom Lyons to
Bnm; but not returning.
Ditto, from Bourgoin to Eclosse; but not
returning.
Between Eclosse and La Frette, a third horse
during the six winter months, both going and
returning.
A third and fourth horse throughout the
Jear from Voreppe to Rives, but notretum-
t ROUTB FROM ORBNOBI.X TO GAP, LSADINO
TO mont-okncvrb; and thkncr to Tu-
rin; BY WAY OP BMBRUN, MONT-OAUPHIN,
AND BRIAN(ON.
S ViziUe— It is much to be lamented that
there are no relays of post-horsi-s on
the difect line from Vizlile to Brian^on
H Recologne
2 Besan<{0n,
47 posts.
Besanqon, anciently called Vesofi'
Hoy and supposed to contain 30,000
inhabitants, is a large and handsome
Town, seated on the Doubs, and pos« .
sessing a strong Citadel, erected on a
rock by Iiouis XIV. Here are several
remains of antiquity; the most in.
teresting of which are, an AmphiiJhea^
tre of an hundred and twenty feet in
diameter; a Triumphal Arch, and the
ruins of a Temple. Principal Inns,
L* Hotel Natiofial ; V Hotel de France;
&c. The environs of this town are
picturesque ; and contain celebrated
Warm Baths.
ROUTE FROM PARIS TO ORKKOBLE.
60| To Xyofi— See the Route from
Paris to Lyons, by Auji;erre and
Autun.
1 S. LaurenP-deS'Murei
\\ Verpilliere
l| Bourgoin
l| Eolose
2 La Frette
1§ Rives
. J I Voreppe
2 Grenoble
74 postsj:.
This City, seated on the Isere, and
anciently called Gratianopolisy is sup-
posed to contain 22,000 inhabitants ;
and gave birth to Bayard, the " Che*
valier sans peur et sans reproehe,**
whose Statue ornaments the CoU^e
• and Mont-Gen&vre; as a line road has
' been lately made over this Alp, which is
considerably lower than Cenis, and pio-
vided with a Convent for the accommo-
dation of Travellers. *
A third horse all the year between OzenoUe
and Visille.
1 Lo Frey—A tWrd and fourth horse all
the year going, but not returning.
14 La Mure— A third horse all the year, both
going and returning.
If Souchong— A third horse all the year, both
going and returning.
If Cku-ps—A third horse all the year, both
going and returning.
9 La Guinget^-de-Bo^
li Bi-utinet
If Gap— The last Post-house established on
this road is at Gap. Principal Inns, Bo-
-- Mde Laval, Hotel de Mm-ehand.
U posts.
FnAVOt.] MONTAUBAN^TOULOUSE— CAROASSONE, i:e. 473
here, which merits notice ; as do the
Hotel of the Pr^ect, the Palais de
Jtuiiee^ and the BiHdge thrown over
the Drac. The seven Wonders in the
environs of Grenoble, (which, by.the-
hjy do not quite deserve their name)
are — La Tow sans Venin — La Fon^
iaine ardente — La Montagne inaeees-
sible — Les Cuves de Sassenage — Les
Pierres ophtalmiqves de Sassenage —
La Manne de Brianfon — and La
Grotte de N. D. de la Balme.
BOUTE FROM PARIS TO PERPI6-
NAN, THROUGH TOULOUSE.
40} lamoges — See the Route from
Paris to Bordeaux.
d PierremBuffiere,
1} Magnac
\i Massere
2\ Uzerche
2 Saini Pardoux
1{ Donxenac
l| Brive
2| Cressensae
2 SouUiac
2^ Peyrac
2} Pont'de-Rhodez
2| P^iacoy
2i Cahors — Anciently called Co-
durci. Here are some remains
of a Roman Amj^Uheaire.
3 Madeleine
2 Caussade
2f Montauban — A handsome Town,
beautifully situated on a hill ;
and containing 25,000 inhabit-
ants. The best Inns are, L* Ho-
tel de France; Le grand So-
leils and Le Tapis verd. An
extra quarter of a post is paid
on quitting Montauban.
2i Canals
\\ S. Jorrtf
2| Toulouse
82} posts.
This City, watered by the Garonne,
and anciently called Tolosa, contains
55,500 inhabitants. The H6tel de
Ville^ and the Bridge merit atten-
tion ; the latter being one of the finest
• Pott-mattem are authorized to put on a
third horse at every stage between Limoges
•od GrIioUess and» at Souillac, the Post-
master is authorised to add a pair of oxen to
every four-whcded carriage, going either to
Peync or Cressensae ; charging three francs*
in Europe. Toulouse is embeOished
with a variety of pleasant Promenades-
Principal Inns, L* Hotel du Nord;
V Hotel de France ; V Hotel d^An^
gleterre ; ^o,
14 Castanet — ^An extra quarter of a
post is paid from Toulouse to
Castanet.
]} Bassiege
l| Fiilefranche
2\ Casteinaudary — This Town is
near the great Canal of Lan*
guedoc. Inns, Notre Dame, §^,
H Fi/le-pinte
1 Alzonne
2i^ Carcassonne — In the Upper-town
is a Castle which contains same
old Law-deeds, written in a very
peculiar manner upon the bark
of trees. Principal Inns, UHo^
tel de L'Ange ; U Hotel de S.
Jean ; and V Hotel de petit
Paris,
2 Barbeirac
\\ Moux — ^^A plain covered with
. olives, vines, com, and mul-
berry-trees, and enoirded by
barren rocks.
2 Cruscades
2i Narbonne — Here are Ruins of
several Roman Edifices, and in
the Cathedral is th6 Tomb of
PhUip the Bold, Principal Inns,
L*H6tel de la Daurade, and
L'Hotelde la Poste, This City
was anciently called Narbon^
ensis,
24 Sigean
2 FUou
H Salccs
2 Perpignan — The great Church
deserves notice. Best Inn, X*'Ho-
III tel des Ambassadeurs,
109| posts.*
ROUTE FROM PARIS TO LA R0«
CHELLE, THROUOH CHARTRE8,
TOURS, AND POITIERS.
2^ FersatUes
2 Connieres
1} Rambouillet — Here is a strong
Castle, in which Francis I. ex-
pired.
drink-moaey for the driver inclusive.
A third horse all the year between VUle-
franche and Casteinaudary { for the six winter
months between Casteinaudary and Villeptaite ;
ditto, between Carcassonne and Barbeirac; and
all the yeax between NarboniiQ aad Perpignan.
m
APPBHDIX.
[eh. II.
14 Bptmon
1 Mmkiemm
%\ Chanres— aacUntlf oalled Cat*
nuies. The CaiMhai and itt
Belfry are worth seeing. Innii
Le Qrand Mmarque^ Sf^e.
f 1m Bomrdimvre
2 Bonneval
2 Chdteauchtn
H aoye
B Pexou
ll Nmfoe S,Amqmd
1} ChdteaumRegnauit
2 Monnoye
i| Tours^AneientlyeaUedTVMioit^f.
Tliis Town, pleasantly situated
on- the LoiM, contains 23,000
inhabitants. T'A^ Bridge — the
Qua y» ik e Towers of the an-
cient Abbey of 8. Martin — and
lft# Promenade d» JIfaU, deserve
notice. The Cathedrai Library
contains valuable Alanoscripts.
Tours is one of the most eligible
situations in France for a per-
Hianent residence; the society
being good,the surrounding coun-
try- beautiful, and the Ornate
sainbrions, and seldom Yisi^d
by tha veni de bissf added to
which, provisions aad heuae-rent
are oheap. An eitra quarter of
a post is paid on quitting Tours,
except by way of Monnoye.
Inns; VHoiei d^Angleierrey ^0.
1 Carrie — This country is watered
by the Loire and the Cher, ^nd
famed for excellent fruits.
1 Montbaxon
1 Sariffmy
i Si, Ataure
2 Ormee,
\\ btgrande
1 ChaiellerauU
1 Barrea^dcNteibi^
1 La 7WoAeri0
1 Clan
2 Poitiers — This Town, fonnerly
called Ptctoofwm, is built at the
confluence of the Clain and the
Boivre, and said to contain
22,000 inhabitants. Here are
the remains of an ancient The-
atre^ and a Triumphal Aroh^ or
• A fekiid hone all the y«w b et weai Mom-
■OMand Touxi'
^Ditto» finr tix moatltt* betwin Towwaad
F«MiMVidLtt.
IHlK^sU
'Afueduei* The Cajkedml was
begun in the eleventh century
by Henry II, of England ) and
its Choir is much admirad by
lovers of Gothic arehitocture.
Best Inns, L* Hotel de Frmuoes
VH6iel d'Mueopei and La
Paste,
1 CrouttUe
3^ Lusignan
1| FtUedietMftt*Perron
2 S. Maixent
H La Creche
\l Niort— This Tpwn has a Gothiq
Churchy which was built by the
English. Principal Inns, Le
Maisin de Bouvpoyme § Lee t^ei^
Piyeons 4 L'Jidtel de kt Paix^
&c. Niort is said to hare U,000
inhabitants.
1^ Frontenay
H Mauzi
1 Laiyne
1} Nuaia^
1^ Groland
1 La Rochelle — Here are the re-
mains of a celebrated IHke^ whieh
was constructed by CaMlinal
Richelieu. La Rodh^le eontains
18,000 inhabitants ; its Harbour
Is safe and eommodioas ; and its
principal Inns are, Uuikel dee
Ambmesadmsts 4 Lee trois Chan^
deliers ; VH6tel des Peincee^
4fc. The road thrmi|^ Toute
tod Oeleans to Roohelle is 61
posts; and that throuf^ Ven^
ffoM#, TViuff , Peitiersi Niorty
and Satntes^ 69 posts and a
— « half*,
ai posts.
ROUTE VBOH YAttlB TO CHER-
.BOURG, THROUGH OA^K.
1 Courbevme
US. Germain^-en^Laye
\\ Triel
1 MetUan
'i Mantes
\\ Sonjiieres
It Pacy
2 l^vreux
2^ La Comtnanderie
^ La liiviere-J'hUHni^ili^
l>itto, aU the jtaat, betiDMB Ls CMdis an*
La f.^igw-
Ditto, duriBf the da mintte aonttasi
U Lslgns aadl«iisill4 """~"*^
FiiAjrc^.] CAEN--CHERBOURG-*VANNES— LE MANS, ^c. 4f*
1| Le Mmrchi'^euf
l| VHoteUerie
ij Idtieiiiv ■
8 £f/reear
1) fdouit
2 Caen — a large City, ecmtaining
36,000 inhabitants, it remark-
able for being the burial-place
of William the Genqaeror, of
England; whose Tomb is in the
Church of S. Etienne. The
Steeples of this Ohuroh deserve
notice ; as does the andent Ah-
baye awe Hommet^ now a Royal
College. Tho Abbaye auz
Dames was buih by WiUiam the
Conqueror and his Queen Ma-
tilda. Some of the Churches
Qontain heautifiil Stifuned Glass:
and the basin ef th^ River, be-
low the Town, is magnificent.
PrixUai»l Inasi L*H6iei tPAn-
gleUrre i L*H6i€i tPEapagne ;
V Hotel de la Vietmwe i and
U Hotel de la Place Royah. Thia
is a cheap and eligible City for a
permanent residence. An ej^tra
quarter of a post is paid on quit^
Tting Caen.
' 1 ^ BrettevUle P OrgueUleuae
2 Bayeux
\\ Frntbadon
2| Saint Lo — Inn, Le Soleil levant,
ll S. Jean Day
1^ Carentan
J I Smnte-Mere'Effltse
%' Vahgnes
2^ Cheriourg — The improvements
made in this Harbour by Napo-
leon highly merit notice. Innjs,
L' Hotel iPAngleterre ; Hotels
de France^ de Ixmdres^ du Nord^
dit Grand Monarque^ and de la
.— — Baroque.
44| posts.
ROUTE FROM PARIS VO L^ORIEKT,
THROUGH RENNES.
44| Rennes-T^^etUerouO from Paris
.to Brest.
2 MordeUe^
2i Pl^lan
3 Ploermel
1 Roc-S, Andr£
% Pont^QuUlemet
2| Vannes — supposed to stand on
the site of the ancient DmrmrU
gum, is situated near the Celtic
Monuments of Camae, which
ought not to eseape a Stranger's
notice. Inns, Le Dauphin, Le
X«<m <rer, and VH^l d4
France.
3 .i^vra^^Near this Town is a oi-
devant Ch^rtreuse^ which merit*
notice.
2 Landevant
■ H Henntbon
1 § X' Ort>ii#-^This v\ one pi the pret-
tiest Towns in France. Inns,
V Hotel de Commerde, L^H^tel
— de France, ^e,
64 posts *.
ROUTE FROM PARIS TO ITAVTESt
lOi Dreux—See the Route from Parfs
to Brest.
If MfTviiMte
I CAdteau-neuf
1 D^ny
Ij^ La Loupp^
2\ Regmalard
2 Bel/esme
2 S. Cottne-de^^air
1| Bonnetable
i SavignS
1^ Le Mans — This Town, watered
by the Sarte, contains above
19,000 inhaMtaRtst iU Cathe-
dral merits notice. Its prinoipai
Inns are, L§ Crmtsanti Xj$
Dauphin j nod La fiaule d'or.
m Cruesselard
1 FouHetonrte
2i La Fhoh9
l\ Durtal
2 Suette
2} Angerth-^A large and populous
Town, seated on the Mayenne.
Inns, Loi 9<n^ d*Qr ; Le Li^
d*or i and Le Chwal hhnQ,
2^ Sf Georges
1 Champtoce
li Farades
if Ancenis
l| Oudon
\\ La Sail/eraye
H Naiit^9^
i9i posts.
- A Uibd hQiw, during the 9tx winter Ditto, during the rtx winteMMntlM, be-
IMHitlui* between Rennes and PUlan* tween Plo«nnil sn^ S. AaAs^ c . ^ .
Ditto, tHe i^fll« ysMT, bctwten PlfAsn snd Tbim» Ibe wlfoln ywr. between S. Andr«
Ploermel. and vannes..
476
APPENDIX.
[Ch. II.
Nantet, the drndwiemm of the
- Romans, and one of the most consi-
derable Cities in France, contains
80,000 inhabitants. It is built at the
eonfluenoe of the rivers Eudre and
S^res with the Loire, and has twelve
Bridges; most of which are hand-
some. Inns, VHotel de France^
V Hotel des JStrangers^ S^c. An extra
quarter of a post is paid on quitting
this City.
&017TE FROM XAKTES, THROUGH
BEWE8, TO SAINT-MAIiO.
IJ Oetvrea
1^ La CroiX'Bianche
2 Nozay
\\ Derval
1§ Breharaye ~
2 Boudun
2 Bout-de^Lande
2 Rennes — The butter of this
neighbourhood is reputed to be
the best in France ; particularly
that made on a farm called La
Prevalaye.
2^ Hedi
2| Saint'^Pierre'^mPlesguen
\\ ChAteau-neuf
\\ SainUMalo—Axi extra half-post
■ is paid if the tide be high.
22| posts*.
S. Malo is built on a rock, snr-
rounded by sea, and communicating
with the land by a Causey, called the
Sillon, The Ramparts and Public
Walks command a fine prospect.
Inns, L* Hotel de France, L* Hotel des
Voyageursi L* Hotel du Commerce, ^c.
ROUTE FROM PARIS TO PLOM-
BIERES.
21 Chalons-sur-Marne. See " Route
from Paris to Strasburgh,
through Chalons-sur-Marne.'*
2 La Chauss^e
2 Vitry-sur-Mame — Inns, L^Epie
Royale ; La Croix d'or, ^c,
2 LongcJtamp
1^ Saint'Dizier
1^ iSa2«c&t<;jD/— A third horse, through-
• A third hone all the year between Nantes
And ^<MlVTfi8
Ditto, during the six winter-months, be-
tween La Croix Blandie and Novay.
Ditto, during the six winter-months, be-
tween Bout-de-i<ande and Rennes.
out the year, going and return-
ing.
1^ Bar-le-Duc — Inns, Le Cygne,
LeLiond*or,^c. A third horse,
throughout the year, going and
returning.
2 Ldgny
2^ Houdelaincourt
2| Z>omr«»y— Athirdhorsesthrough-
out the year, going and return-
ing.
H Neu/ehdteau
1^ Chatenoy
3 Mirecourt
2^ Damieu/le~^A third horse for the
six winter months, going and re-
turning;
H Epinal
2 Xertigny — A third horse, through-*
out the year, going and return-
ing.
■ 1| PlombOres — A third horse,
throughout the year, going and
«*.— > returning.
61 1 posts.
Plombieres, a pretty Town, seated
on the Angronne, between two steep
Hills, and reputed to contain 1,200
inhabitants, is famed for its Warm
Mineral Waters, and Baths.
ROUTE FROM PARIS TO BAR-
REGES AND BAOKERES.
76| Bordeaux — See '^ Route from
Paris toBordeauxandBayonne."
1| Bouscaut — A third horse for the
six winter months going and re-
turning.
1| Casires
ij Cerons
l^ Langon — A third horse, for the
six winter' months, going and
returning.
2 Bazas—A third horse, through,
out the year, going and return-
ing.
2^ Captieux-'A third horse, through-
out the year, going and return-
ing.
2 Poteau^A third and fourth horse,
throughout the year, going and
returning.
A third horse, all the year, between Remwa
and Hed6.
Ditto, during the six winter-months, be-
tween Hed^ and Ch&teau-neuf ; and all tiM
year between Ch^teau-neuf and S. Malo.
Fbakce.] PAU— BARREGE&-.BAGNERES. ^77
Roquefort-^k third horse, for the 1 Bcur^^et — A third and fourth
six winter months, going and horse, throughout the year,
returning. - going and returning.
3 Villeneuve-de-Marsan-Inn8,/^*j&- 124| posts,
lotto, and La Providence, A third
and fourth horse, throughout the Barr^fes, situated in a mountainous
year, going and returning. country, and containing about 700 in-
2^ Airc-LA third horse, throughout habitants, has long been famed for the
the year, going and returning. efficacy of its Mineral Waters, in dis-
2 Gar/in — A thiixl horse, through- eases of the liver, rheumatic affectiouB,
out the year, going and return- and gunshot wounds : but the barren-
ing. ness of the soil by which it is sur.
1| Auriac — A third horse, through- rounded, and the host of Cripples who
out the year, going and return- are its occasional visiters, render this
ing* ' Town a melancholy abode.
2| Pau.-^ third horse, throughout Not far distant from Barreges is
the year, going and retuiTiing. BofftUres de Bigorre^ a small Town,
Pau, the birth-place of Henry seated on the Adour, and celebrated
IV, of France, contains about for its Mineral Waters, and Warm
11,000 inhabitants ; and the Cra^ Baths ; which were held in high esti-
dle of the King, made with the mation by the ancient Romans, and
shell of a large tortoise, together still retain great celebrity. Spring
with his Statue in marble, and Autumn are the seasons when
(and a strong likeness,) may still Invalids frequent Barreges and Bag-
be seen in the now decaying neres. The latter is furnished with
Palace where he was born. Pro- good but high-priced lodgings : pro*
visions at Pau are abundant and visions, however, are cheap ; and for
cheap; Lodging-houses good; a weU-cooked dinner, sufficient for
. and, if taken by the half-year, a two masters and two servants, the
large and commodious apartment usual charge is three francs,
may be hired for six hundred From Bagneres an interesting ex-
francs ; the Society also is good ; cursion may be made into the Pyre-
and the situation of the Towji nees, (partly on horseback, and partly
lovely *. in chaises-a-porteur^) through the fer-
3 X«e«/e//e-.A third horse, through- tile Valley qf Campan to Grip — Air-
out the year, going and return- reffes — Luz — S. Sauveur^ (a small bat
ing. sweetly situated Village, composed en>
2 Lourdet — Inns, La Clef d' or ; Le tirely of Lodging-houses) — C^vatfuOy
Ition d^or ; and Les Pyrenees. particularly well worth notice, on ao-
2i PierrefUie — • A third horse, count of its romantic, picturesque, and
throughout the year, going, but sublime scenery — and thence back U»
not returning. Inn, La Poate, Lux — ^and by Pierrefitte^ and CatUe^
2 Lui8—Ji third and fourth horse, rets^ (another Watering-place, which
throughout the year, going and is much frequented,) through Lourdet
returning. lun^Cazatuf^s Hotel, to Bagnhes.
- Pau carriei on an extensive commerce io and gmoked Legs of Geese. The best Inns Bese
Hams, (Imj^operly called hams of Bayonne,) are, Le Grand Cerf, and L'H6M de Fnmct*
m
Chaptbr III.
swrraiERLAND.
Money oT Sivitttirlidia— PHce of PMt-hoirses— Prices chdtged by VoitUrim— Moet advanbgeouf
nrf ot wefaig S«rltwrland--Geiieva^Anrival Atid dej^axtute of LMt^-Coiirien— Bltpense of
living at Gen«tira~Dil^|eDoet— Route going post from Jougne to S. Maurice— ftonl Geneva
to Lausanne— fhnn Les Rousses to Nyon— frcnoa Goieva, by the Simplon, to Milan, and vice
vetk&— New lioad ovist Splugen— Passage of S. Gk)thard'^PiRSsage of the Grand S. Berimrd.
MONET &r siri'!^]BS1ilikii'!D. every person beyond thai number
Accounts are kept in Livres and "'S'^^L** ^^^tl'^^lS^ii^^
featz, one Swiss ^Livre being ten ^^J'tl^ ^J^Tt}^^^
Batzj and one Bata three sous of ^eP")? <«« ^^T^J^^^i,?^^ ^®
Frank The old Loms-d'or, the Na- ^^T^ horses ahd one postiUion* One
poleon, the French Ecu, and Demi- "^^^ ^£?'>* »*«>^ "L^^ J^^^I "
leu, ai^e the coins which pass best J??,"*^^*^ "^ * D<melitity$ jnd two
throughout Switzerland. tflnldren under siic yearti M as one
° ^assengen
PHicE OP POST-HOMES Pofct-hotaBes, wirfl ^fovlded with
PBicE OF POST HORSES. horfces ftud driVefs, ate now established
£vef7 Diranght-hoihie, per post, (tw^ on idl the great roltds of Switserhmd
1eti|:Ue8,) teii Batz-^every postillion, leading to the SImplon, aiid in several
five Batis-^-every tfUtr-h-banc or da&rl- other parts of the Cantons. The inagni-
t>ie^, furnished by a Post-master, five ficent road from Couvey to Neuoh&tel,
Batz. by the Jura-Mount&ins, was made
Every tshoi^iL^imiui^ eonveying from ftbout the year 1819. Another new
tfti^ to three persons, must have two itwd is making from Lucerne to Zu-
hdnds und one jltostillion*— but, if it tidi, in cn-der to avoid the dangerous
-convey four persons, it must have passageof the AUris; and a Post-road
tliree horses and one postillion — Ca- was opened in 1824, from 8* Gall lead
MoletBy or other carriages, with two the Thurgovie, tmd from Zurich and
places only for passengers, and con- the Lake of Wallenstadt to the base
veying one or two persons, must have of Splugen, and over that stupendous
two horses and one postillion — Cahri^ Alp to Belllnzone.
^ets^ Git other carriages (with four JPersonswhowishto tratel6f» volfv-
plaees) mounted on two or fourwlieels, W^ may always hire draught^horses
and conveying fh)m one to four per- of Swiss Voitiirins ; who commonly
tons, xniist have three horses and one charge, per day, from eight to ten francs
postillion — Close carriages a Bran" ti horse, while travelling; and three
cards (with one outside place) convey- francs a day for each driver; and on days
ing from one to three persons, must of rest half-price. Swiss Voiturins like-
hiive three horses and one postillion ; wise charge, for the return, of horses
and if there be more than three per- to the place where they were hired,
sons conveyed in any of these carriages, eight or nine francs a day per horse ;
the fourth person must pay ten Batz hut nothing for the driver. Saddle-
per post. — Berlines^ or LinumiereSj horses and mules may be hired in
with an outside seat before, and ano- every part of Switzerland for about
ther behind, and conveying from one an ^cu-neuf per day. But the most
to three persons, must have four advantageous manner of seeing this
horses and two postillions : if they Country is to travel on foot ; a plan
convey from four to six persons, they so commonly adopted that the Foot-
must have six horses and two postil- passenger is as well received, even at
lions : and if there be more than six the best Inns, as If he came in a
persons conveyed in these carriages, splendid equipage. The expense in-
SWlTSVaLAXD.]
GENEVA^^^OUTES.
470
ci»r«d by tnivdling on foot throc^k
Switaerland teldom ezoeeds fiv« ahll-
lings, English money, per day^ for
- each Traveller
- half-a-crown beings
on an average^ tbe price of a to6&-
sThote supper, wine and lodging in-
dusive 9 and Pedestrians sboiiud make
supper tbeir principal meal *.
GENEVA*
ARRIVAL AND DEPART URlS OF
LETTER-COURIERS.
Letters from Great Britain igrrite
9k Ttteedkys, Wednesdays, Fridays,
ftttd Simdays, at six in the aftetnoon,
by the Fi^endi Courier.
Letters for Great Britain po <m
Mondays, Wednesdays) Fridays, and
0aittrdays, kt ei^t m the morning,
by the Freneh Gwiriel».
Geneva is not ft cheap place for per-
manent residence ; but theits aire Gene*i
tese FaitiiUes who take Boarders at
foiir hmis d*ors a month $ whereas a
perseti who hires a private lodging,
ttUd dibes dttly at a tabh-d'hSiif, can-
not spend less than double that sum f.
This Town is famous fot watches,
Hud gold trinkets of all descriptions.
Dilig^ces go several times a week
ftom Geneva to Lausanne, NeuchAtel,
Lyons^ Grenoble, and Turin, by way
i» the Mont-Oenis.
ROUTE dOtKO ^OST FROtt
JOUOyS TO 8. MAtlRlCE.
2ji Orbe^A third horae itoxa Orbe
to Jottgne ; but not viO0 V9rsA»
. If Couonay — A third horse going
and returning.
2 Lauaamu — A third horse goi&g
and returning.
2^ Fewjf — A third horse from Vevey
^ to Lausanne, but not nice verta,
2} Ai0i€
1 Bex
^ St Maurice
13^ postal
ROUTE OOIXO POST FROM GE-
NEVA TO LAUSAKVE.
If firom Coppet to Geneva*
• The ChnnbaciBKid, at a 6wiM Ina« *dM
not meet nuwe than five tetE, per tdghty ftoin
•ach iTaveOnr.
PenooB who travel poet are usually dwigW
14 from Coppet to Nyon.
l| fimn Nyon to RoUe.
1] from Rolle to Morges*
14 from Morges to Lausanne, A
third horse from Morges to
Lausanne, but not vuiever§Am
ROUTE OOIKO POST FROM LIS
ROUSSES TO NTOir*
14 from S. Cergues to Les Rousses.
A third hone from tke former
to the lajtter place.
1] from S. Cergues to Nyon. A third
horse from Nyon to S. Cergues,
but not vice versd.
The expenses attendant oa its-
mounting and remounting carriages
during winter ; and the fees of Guides
who aid in conducting carriages &ot
dismounted, through deep snow, are
fixed by a Tariff, which may be seen
at the Post-houses.
ROUTE, OOIVO POST4 FROM OX-
yEVA, RY THE SIMPLON« TO MI-
LAN : BEIXG A CONTIKUATIOK
OF THE MILITARY ROAD MABE
BY NAPOLEON.
24 Dovcune
2 Thonon
14 Evian
24 Saint Gingoupli
2| Fionnax
8| Bamt MaiUiee .
2$ Martigny
2! Riddet
2I Sion
2* Sierre
2} 1\irtman
21 Viige
1 4 Brigg, or Bryg
24 Baritelio
^ Sempione^ (village so called)
24 heila-
.2 Domo (VOsfoia
2 Fogogna
3 Farioio
24 Arona
\l SettO'Caiende
2 Catcina
U Ro
l| Milan
52| postst
from four to six fronoi a head for dtaner) and
ftom rix to eight fof iupper and beda.
t The conuBon prtce §m dinner at a goea
table <Fh6te is three hancs.
4d6
AP]?EN»1X.
[Ck. lit.
BOUTE FROM MILAK, BT tRE SIH-
PLOKy TO OENETA, ACCORDIITO
TO THE ITlKrERARIO ITALIAKO.
PUBLISHED AT HILAK, IK THE
TEAR 1820.
li Ho
1^ Caacma
2 Setto^Calende
1 Arona
1| Befyirate
, ij Baveno
2 Vogogna
1| Domo-d^Ottola
\\ beUa
\\ Sempione, Milage so called)*
4| Bn>^, or jBryy
2 Tourtemoffne, or 7\trtman
2 Slrerrc
2 fi^
2 JRiV^f
2 Martigntf
2 S. Maurice
2 Fionnax
2 5. Gmgouph
2i Evian
l{ TAoMoift
2 Dovaine
2f Geneva.
45| posts.
PASSAGE OF SPLUGEK. KEW ROAD.
Persons travelling from Suabia, or
the Canton of the Orisons, to Venice,
or Milan, find this the shortest route :
though nobody should attempt to cross
the Mountain of Splugen at the season
of Avalanches-f-. But after the winter
snow has fallen, and become suffi-
ciently hard for a sledge to glide
smootnly over its surface, or during
the months of July, August, and Sep-
tember, when the winter snow is,
generally speaking, melted. Travellers
may, without danger, indulge them-
selves by exploring this Passage of the
Alps ; which very much surpasses
in magnificent, sublime, and awful
scenery, every other Carriage-road of
Europe. It must, however, be ac-
- Postnuurten have at timet been aUowed to
fluttse 61 pocti firom Vcwogna to Sempione.
t when there is iuch an accumulation of
inow that the panted rocks on the summits of
Me Alpe are covered, Avalandies may be ex-
pected hourly.
knowledged that thd Galleries of this
fine road, from the base to the summit
of Splugen, on the side of the Orisons,
are too narrow, and the turnings too
sharp for English travelling carriages
with four horses : and one of the
Cbottoes, on the Italian side, wants
height ; but this inconvenience will,
it is supposed, be remedied in the
course of a twelvemonth.
The Routes which lead through
the Orisons to Splugen unite at Bourg
de Bagaz^ two leagues from which
Town are the celebrated Baths of
Pfeffers. From Ragaz to Cwre (the
Capital of the Canton of the Orisons)
is five leagues. The road crosses the
Rhine by the wooden Bridge of Tar.
dis, and traverses by another Bridge
the formidable Torrent of Lanquart^
which has often menaced the sur-
rounding country with destruction.
Here commences the superb road
which joins, at three quarters of a
league from BelUnzoue, that of the
Canton of the Tessin; and forms a
communication between Italy, eastern
and northern Switzerland, and Ger-
many. From Coire^: to the village of
Splugen^ (eleven leagues) the road
resembles a majestic avenue to an
immense park. Two leagues from
Coire the two arms of the Rhine,
namely, the Vorder-Rhein, and the
Hinter-Rhein, unite in face o{ the
picturesque Castle of Richnau;- and
the road passes over these brawling^
and impetuous streams by two splen-
did single-arched wooden Bridges ;
one of which was the work of a com-
mon village carpenter. From Ridi-
nau to the small Town of Thount^
(three leagues and a quarter,) the
road lies at the base of the luxuriant
Mont-Heinzenberg, in the Valley of
Domleschg, rendered sterile by the
inundations of the Hinter-Rhein aiid
the Torrent of Nolla. Here, in a
peculiarly picturesque situation, are
Ruins of the Castle of Realta, (called
likewise Hohen Rh^tien,) supposed to
have been built by Tuscan Emigrants
during some part of the middle ages.
From Thousis to Andeer (near t^ee
} A Tariff containing the number of Poi te,
and the expense of Post-horses, Guides* and
dirinounting and remounting Carrii^gns, on
this new Road, has been publahed byOie Go-
vernment of the Griaoiis, and may be ftwad at
Coire*
SwiT^EELAKD.] SPLUGEN— NEW ROAD..
481
leagaes) the road passes through the so gradual as to predude the necessity
ViJley of Schams ; crossing, by a fine of using a drag^hain. From. Berg.
Bridge, near Thousis, the destructive haus to the Hamlet of S. Bernardino
torrent of Nolla, and approaching, by is one league and a half; and midway
a Grotto pierced through a solid rock, the road passes the Moesa on a lofty
the wild, magnificent, and stupendous Bridge. S. Bernardino is frequented
Ravine, called the Rheinwald, or Val- during summer, on account of its
ley of the Forest of the Rhine *, Mineral Waters ; and consequently,
through which that River and the during summer. Travellers find the
Road wind amidst perpendicular Rocks Inn at this Village provided with a
not less than three thousand feet high, well stocked larder ; and frequently
and clothed to their summits with take eatables thence to the next bait-
stately firs, the branches of which ing place, Misoceo^ where the Inn is
seem to canopy the narrow Glen be- ill-provided and its master very im«
neath them. The Rhine boils and posing. From S. Bernardino to Jlft->
foams along with appalling rapidity «occo is three leagues. Here the Road
dose to the Road ; which has no de- enters a cheerful Valley, which dis«
fence against its impetuous neighbour plays, as the Traveller advances, the
but a slight parapet wall. From An- rich culture of Italy ; till at length
deer to Spiugen is near three leagues ; the hills of Chiavenna, covered with
and on approaching that Village the fruit-trees, present themselves to view;
Ravine widens, and displays magni- and the mildness of the Italian climate
cent cascades. This Defile between compensates for -the coldness of the
Coire and Spiugen bears undeservedly Alps. From Misooco to Bellinawne is
the name of ^^ Via-Mala." Spiugen^ six leagues and a quarter : and three
situated in the Valley of the Rhein. quarters of a league from Bellinzone,
wald, contains a 'good Inn -)- ; as do at the Bridge of the MoeSa, the new
two other Villages in this Valley, Route of the Bernardino joins the
those of NUfienen and Hinter- Rhein : superb High-road of the Canton of
the last stands at the base of the the Tessin, which terminates at the
Bernardino ; and about a league and a base of S. Gothard.
half from this Village the Valley is Travellers, during summer, may
terminated by the immense Glacier of reach the High-road to Milan, by go-
Vogelberg, the Source of the Rhine, ing from Bellinzone to MagaiUno on
From Spiugen to Chiavenna the drive the Lago Maggiore ; whence, (the
usually occupies about seven hours season permitting) a Steam-boat starts
and three quarters ; full five of which every Thursday, Friday, Saturday,
are spent in passing the Mountain ^, Sijnday, and Monday morning, at six
The Austro-Lombardo Custom-house o^clock, for Sesto-Calende ; where it
is two leagues beyond Spiugen. arrives about noon. The price paid
The distance from the Village of by a Chief-cabin Passenger, in this
Vlmter-Khemtothe first Refuge i^erfc- vessel, from Magadino to Sesto, is six
haus) is near two leagues ; and three Italian livres ; the charge for the
hours are usually occupied in going, transport of a Berlin or English Post-
Berghaus is a large edifice, situated in chaise, is fifty livres ; and the charge
a wild country on the margin of a for the transport of a Caleche, forty
Liake, whose sable waters give birth livres.
to the impetuous torrent of the Moesa, Travellers may likewise reach the
which falls into the Tidno, about High-road to Milan by means of the
three quarters of a league from Bel- Steam-boats (managed by Englishmen)
linzone. The road to Chiavenna is which ply daily on the Lake of Como§,
formed into Terraces ; and the descent the season permitting : and persons
- The Forest of the Rhine contains Fin of
so uncommon a magnitude, that one of them
is said to measure twenty-five ells round the
trunk : and the Fall of the Rhine in this Fo<
rest exhibits one of tlie sublimest objects in
nature; which, wliile It fills spectators with
awe, affords them the pleasure of contemplat-
ing scenes in the creation beyond the power of
any pencil to imitate.
t Travellers going post over Spiugen usually
sleep here.
X The ascent, on the Rheinwakl side of the
mountain, commonly occupies about two
hours.
- § The Lake of Como, anciently called Lock*
Larius, is computed to be fifty miles in Iragth ;
from tliree to six miles in breadth ; and firom
forty to six hundred feet in depth. This Lake,
2 I
A^ ABPENDIX. [Ch. Ilf.
vho avBil t^dmselves of these vessels, at Jiroh, where the Inn i« good ; the
embark at La Riva. Another way of third at Giomieo ; and the fourth at
reaching the High-road is to go by B^Umxone, Carriages may pass, by-
fMgano^ Ponte di Trssa^ and Vwese^ being dismounted, from Altorf to
to S9sto*. Giomieo ; but the expense of convey-
ing an English carriage over S. Go-
I^ASSAGE OP 8. OOTQA|ID. thdirdi is seldom less than twenty-four
louis-d*orS.
Previons to the existence cif the
new roads over the Simplon and Cenis, passage of the geand saikt
t|iit was on© of the most frequented beknard.
Routes from Switzerland into Italy \
and ihe journey from Fliielen to Bel- Persons who wish to %o theshortesH
lifisoi^e is easily accomplished in four way from French Switzerland into
days, whether on foot or on hom'e^ Italy, usually cross the Grand S. Ber*
back ; neither can this Passage be nard ; there is, however, no carriage-
called dangerous at any season, except road beyond Branchier ; though £ng-
while the snow is melting. Between lish carriages hafve occasionaUy been
Fluelen and I/Hopital, the Pfaffen^ dismounted at Martigny, and carried
Sprung^ the Catoade^ the Devil** over the mountain to Aoste, at the
^Hdge^ the Scholienen^ the UmeT'- expense of eighteen or twenty Napo-
hoh^ and the beautiful prospect pre- leons per carriage, aooording to its.
sented by the Valley of Urseren, are size, the transport of trunks not in-
the objects best worth a Traveller's duded. The price, per day, for every
attention. A little beyond the village porter-mule employed on 8. Bernard,
of Lt^fiopital once stood UHospiee dee is twenty-six batz ; guide and tax for
Cajmehine^ where Travellers met with the Commissary indusive $ though
dean beds, good wine, and a hospitable Foreigners pay more.
reception \ but the Convent no longer From Martigny to L^Hospioe is
exists, and an Imi is established en its about nine leagues ; and persons who
site. The summit of S. Gothard is go the whole way on mules, cannot
is a small plain, encompassed by rocks ; accomplish this long ride under nine
and the elevation of this plain is hours. Travellws, therefore, often
supposed to be six thousand seven sleep at Liddee ; where the Inn affords
hundred and ninety English feet above tolerable accommodation. Beyond
the level of the JVf editerranean sea. Liddes the ascent becomes rapid ; and
between L^Hospice and Bellinsone the one league from this Village is S.
views are beautiful; and the whole Pierre, which contains an Inn, and
route is much embellished by the river was considered by the ancient Remans
Tidno, the forests of firs, the pastu- to be the most elevated spot of ground
rages, the pretty hamlets placed in ele- on the Maritime Alps : they in conse*
vated situations ; and the vines, pop- quence erected K.MUUary Cohimn
lars, chesnuts, walnuts, and fig-trees, here t. This country is remarkable
whidi continually present themselves for deep hollows bordered with rocks ;
to view. and into these hollows the Dranse
Travellers who pass 3. Gothard on predpitates itsdf with such violence
foot, or on horseback, usually sleep as to form a sc^ie by many persons
the first night at Urseren ; the second preferred to the fall of the Rhine at
combined yrith' the Tqwn of Como* aodently during the months of May and June ifhco the
Oomum, forms a Veautilul landscape. Pliny winter snow is fneltiqg. Sevonal English Fa-
the younger was born at Como ; and in the milles have nearly lost then: lives by crossing
flpfint of the Cathedral is his Statue. The dis- in June.
t^cefrom Como, through Barlassina, to Mi]>n t The most elevated point of the Grand S.
is three posts and a half. Bernard, namely, Mobt-Velan, is supposed to
• An ceconomical and a safe mode of crossing be (as already mentioned) more than tua thou-
the Mountain of Splugen, Is to go under the sand English feet above the level of the Medl-
guidance of the Messagtr ; who travels every terranean sea : and L'Hospice, according to
week from Lindau to Milan ; and undertakes, Saussure, is eight thousand and seventy •four
for a certain price, to deftay all the expenses of Paris feet (though subsequent computatknis
the Passage, board and lodging Inclusive. But make it only six thousand one hundred and
In whatever way Travellers cross this Mouq- fifty Paris feet) above the levd <tf the MedK
taki> Uie^ought BOt to attenpt (he Psmage tenaneansea.
Switzerland.] PASSAGE OF S. BERNARD. 483.
Schaffhausen. From S. Pierre to from putrefaction the dead bodies de-
li'Hospice is three leagues; every posited in its Cemetei*y. Not far
step of which toward the summit of hence lies the Col de Tenebres ; by
the mountain increases the steepness ascending which, a view may be obtain-
of the path, and the wildness of the ed of that part of Mont-Blanc which
prospects. White partridges aca seen cannpt be seen from Chamouni. The
here in lar^e numbers. Valley in which L' Hospice stands is
About one league beyond S. Pierre long, narrow, and terminated by a
the road consists of snow, frossen fo maa^ Lake, on the extremity of which
hard, that a horse's hoof scarce makes the Convent is erected. Near this
any impression on it : this road tra- sppt thei'e formerly w%» a T«mple
veirses two Valleys ; the firsp being con^ed'ated to Jupiter ; and, accord-
caUfid Les Enfers des Foirexues ; and ing to some opinions, tl^e Coi^vent
the second La ValUe de la Combe; stands preiHsely on the site of this
between which spot and L'Hospice the Temple, from which S. Bernard de-
quantity of snow decreases. — VHos^ rives its ancient name of ^oii^-Jovm.
pice is supposed to be the most ele- Th^ conyentual Chapel hare contains
vated of all human habitations in the a Monument to th^ mnnory of the
old world; and some benevolent Monk9 French dreneral, Desaix^ who is re-
of the Augustine Qrd^r live here con- presented as beinff in the act of falling
stantly, for the purpose of acoommo- from* his horse Into ^h@ arms pf a
dating and succouring Travellers ; se- Grenadier., and uttering the words,
veral of whom owe their preservation *' Allex^ direnu Premier CoTijft*/,** &c.
to these humane Ecclesiastics; who Oil the Monument is the following
make a practice of searching out every toscription : ^' A B^saw ; mori ^ la
4infortunate person lost in the snow- hataifle de Mar^n£f€i»" Th^ ^ody was
storms, or buried by the avalanches : brought hither from Milan by order
and in this search they are aided by of Napoleon, who erected ^1^$ inte-
large Dogs, who ncent Travellers at a resting piece of sculpture to oomme-
cousiderable distance ; and, in spit^ morate the hetoic death of his f'rtend.
of impenetrable fogs and clouds of The descent from L'Hospice to Aoste,
snow, are always able to discover and occupies between six and seven l^purs :
pursue the right road. These useful and at Aoste there are remains of a
animals, (who seldom bark, and never Trivrnpluil Archt ^^t iu the time e£
bite a stranger,) carry in ba|»^ets, Augustus ; the n»n9 o^ a Cireu*, §^0.
fastened to their necks, cordials and From^ Aqste Travellers may proceed
eatables calculated to revive those per- either to Turin or Milan. The road
sons who are neai'ly frozen to death : to the former City passes through a
and notwithstanding all that has been beautiful pountry, and the time em-
lately written relative to the extinc- ployed in going need not exceed twenty
tion of this race of Dogs, they are, at hours f.
the present moment, more numerous Travellers who wish to ascend S*
than heretofore *. Every Traveller is Bernard, visit Xi^ Hospice, and return
courteously received at L'Ho^icp; and to Martigny without crossing th^
the Sick are provided with good me- Mountain, and likewise to make this
dical and chirurgical assistance, with- excursion with as little fifttigue as pos.
out distinction of rank, sex, country^ sible, should go in a Cbar-iL'bano trom
^or religion; neither is any recom- Martigny to Liddes, sleeping at the
pense expected for all this hospitality; latter place; thence proceeding, next
though persons who possess the zpeans, day, on mule^, to L' Hospice ; 8ie^ping
seldom fail to leave a testimony of there ; and remounting the Char"
their gratitude in the Poor's box be- a^tqna at Liddes, in going '^hack to
longing to the Church. So intense is Martigny.
the cold at L'Hospice as to preserve
• Hie S. Bernard Dog has a deep farrow in veHers.
tba nose, which makes ft appear double. One f See Ait Route under «^' AppxNm^
of these pQgs wvedtbe Uves pf fiftoenTi*. Italy."
2 12
•> dl^
484
Chapter IV.
ITALY.
Italitti Po«t»— Italian Miles— Price of Poet-horses in northern Italy— Ditto, in Tuscany— Ditto,
in the Pitaicinality of Luocft— Ditto, in the Ecclesiastical Territories— Ditto, in the King-
dom of Naples— Other particulaxB relative to travelling post in Italy— Particulars rdative to
traveling en voiturier— Tuscany— Current coins— Bankers' accounts— Pound-weight — Tus-
can mcasiure called a braccio— Prices at the principal Hotels— Buonamano to Attendants —
Wages d a Valet-de-place—Leghom— Price of carriages— Entrance paid by English Travel-
lers at the Theatre— Articles l^t worth purchasing— Provisionfr— Asses' milk— Fruit— Beo-
caflchi— Ortolans— Size of a Tuscan barrel of wine— ditto of oil— ditto rf a catastre of wood-
Public carriages Arom Leghorn to Pisa— Boats— Diligence from Leghorn to Florence— En-
virons of L^uxn unwhoteflome— Arrival and departure of Letter-Couriers — Pisa — Fees to
Custom-house Officers and Musicians— Winter price of Lodging-houses— Boxes at the
Theatre — Entrance-money— Expense of Job-carriages — Servants' wages — Dinner at a Res-
taurateur's—Mode in which dinners should be ordered from a Traiteur— Firewood— Mats-
Eatables— Milk, cream, oil, and wine— Scales and weights for kitchen-use recommended —
Music, drawing, and language-masters— Fees to medical Men— Banking-house— Prices for
making wearing appardr— Bookseller— Tuscany recommended as a cheap country for perma-
nent residence— Arrival and Departure of Letter-Couriers at Pisa— Price for franking letters
— Price of a seat in the Dil^ence from Pisa to Florence— Persons going this journey advised
not to have their baggage plumbed — Hotels and private lodging-houses at Florence— Winter
mice of the latter ; and where to apply for information respecting them— Price of board and
lodging in an Italian familv— Further particulars relative to pri^ at Inns — Coffee-houses-
Restaurateurs — Table-d'hOte — Price per month for a carriage and horses — Ditto, per day-
Provisions in genera] — Asses* milk, wine, oil, ice. medicines— Price of Butcher's meat, bread,
poultry, 6tc. — Price of table-wine— Best Bookseller — Shop for foreign wine, tea, Engliab
medicines, dec — Grocer— Silk-mercer— Linen-drapers— Shoes and toots— Tailors — LuUes'
dress-makers— Coach-makers— Money-changer— Firewood— Fees to Notaries-public— Prices
at the The at r e s Music Masters, &c.—Sculptprs— Painter— Bankers— Arrival and departure
of Letter-Couriers— Country-houses near Florence*
LEKOTH OF AN ITALIAN POST.
The length of an Italian Post is about
Besven miles : but the miles ot Italy
differ in extent ; that of Piedmont and
Genoa, being near onQ English mile
and a half ; that of Lombardy, about
sixty yards less than an English mile ;
that of Tuscany, a thousand geome-
trical paces ; that of the Ecclesiastical
State, the same length (which is about
one hundred and fifty yards short of
an English mile;) and the mile of
Magna Graecia f the Kingdom of Na-
ples) is longer tnan the English mile,
by about two hundred and fifty yards.
PBICE OF POST-HORSES IN THE
SARDINIAN TERRITORIES.
Erery draught-horse, per post, one
French livre and fifty centimes.
Every carriage furnished by a post-
master, one livre and fifty centimes.
Every postillion, one livre and fifty
centimes.
TARIFF.
CABATOLKTS.
No. of persons. No. of horses.
l,or2
3
4
2
3 1
3 2
LIMONIBIUCS.
Price for each
horse.
I liv. 60 cent.
60
60
l,2,or3 3 I
4 3 2
BSIII.INBS.
1,2, or 3 4 1 60
4, or 6 6 1 60
6 6 1 76
A child, if under six years of age, is
not paid for.
If a Limonitre contain above four
persons, and if a Berlxne contain above
six, an additional charge is made of
one livre and fifty centimes per post.
PASSAGE OF CENIS.
From the first of November to the
first of April, the price of every
draught-horse, from Molaret to Lan».
Italy.]
PRICE OP POST-HORSES.
486
lebourg, and from Lanslebour^ to Gtenoa by the Bocchetta is abandoned ;
Susa, is two livres per post : and from and the new and fine Road of the Val
the fifteenth of September to the di Scrivia, Rico, and Mont-Giovi,
fifteenth of May, the same price is opened in its stead,
charged for every additional horse and At Turin it is advisable that persons
mule, from Susa to Molaret, from who intend to travel post should apply
Molaret to Mont-Cenis, and from to the Direzione generaJe delie Poster
Lansleboiirg to Mont-Cenis ; but not for an Order respecting Post-horses ;
vice versA. To every Cabriolet, con- which Order, called s^SollettoneySaYW
taining one or two persons, one addi- trouble, and prevents imposition,
tional horse is addedl—to every Cabriom
let, containing three persons, two
additional horses and a postillion — to
every Cabriolet, containing four per-
sons, three horses and a postillion — to
PRICE OF POST-HORSES IN THE
LOMBARDO-VEKETIAK REALM.
Every pair of draught-horses, per
every Limoniire, containing two per- PP^** ^^^ French livres, and fifty cen-
sons, two horses and a postillion — to ^i™?*
every LimonUre, containing three or Every Caleche, furnished by a post-
four persons, three horses and a postil- master, forty centimes; and every
lion— and to every if^/in^, containing close carnage furnished by a post-
three or four persons, two horses and ™a«ter, eighty centimes,
a postillion. Every postillion, one livre and fifty
centimes : postillions, however, are
seldom satisfied with less than double
that sum*.
PASSAGE OF THE ECHELLES.
PRICE OF POST-HORSES IN
TUSCANY.
The Post-master here, is obliged to
furnish, in addition to his horses,
draught-oxen, at one livre and fifty
centimes the pair, per post. To every
Cabriolet d. places, drawn by two Every pair of draught-horses, ten
horses, one pair of oxen must b6 pauls a post ; except on quittii^ Flo-
added — to every Limoniire, drawn by rence, when the price is six pauls per
three or four horses, one pair of oxen horse.
in summer, and two pair in winter-
to every Berline, drawn by four horses,
two pair of oxen — and to every Berline,
drawn by six horses, two pair of oxen
The third horse, four pauls.
Every saddle-horse, five pauls.
Every postillion, three pauls.
Hostler^ at every post, half a paul
in summer, and three pair in winter, for every pair of horses.
To an open Cabriolet containing only Every Caleche, furnished by a post-
one person, no oxen are added ; but master, three pauls ; and every car-
the Post-master at Echelles is autho- riage, with four places, six pauls.
rised to add an extra-horse to S. Thi- A Postillion expects five pauls for
bault-du-Coux. every common post, and six pauls on
quitting Florence.
ASCENT OF THE SIMFLON.
The Post-masters at Domo d'Ossola,
and Yeselles, are authorised to put one
additional horse to carriages drawn by
two or three horses ; and two addi-
tional horses to carriages drawn by
four horses : but they are not autho-
rised to put more than six horses to
any carriage whatever.
The old Post-road from Novi to
PRICE OF POST-HORSES IN THK
PRINCIPALITY OP LUCCA»
Every pair of draught-horses, ten
pauls a post.
The third horse four pauls.
Hostler, at every post, half a paul
for every pair of horses.
Every saddle-horse, five pauls.
Every postillion, three pauls.
• The price of PoBt-horaes in the Duchies of to Pavia, at which places the price is seven
Parma and Modena, is the same as in the Lorn- liyres and fifty oeAumes for every pair at
bardo-Venetian realm ; except from Fiorensola diaught-horses. •
to Cremona, and from Castel San-Giovanni
ise
APPENDIX.
[Ch. IV.
1&Y€^ CeUecht^ fumtthed by a post^
tEiftater, three paub; and every car.
riage^ with four places, six pauls.
Travellers, on quitting Lucca, are
eihai|ped fifteen pauls for every pair of
intoght-faoirsaB^
ffttbk or posT-ftbRsES ik i-he
tCCEESlASTlCAl: TEttRITtJftlES.
Every pair of draught-horses, ten
poals a post.
The third horse, four pauls.
Every saddle-horse, four pauls.
tlvery postillion, three pauls and a
half.
Hostler, at every post, half a paul
for every pair 6f horses.
Eviery Caleche, furnished by a post-
thaster, thi-e6 p^uls ; and fevfery car-
riage with four in^id^ places (fur-
nished by a ^ost-thast^r,) six pauls per
post.
A i^dstiilion expects fivepaiilspeirpost.
Travellers are charged an extra half,
post on quitting Rome.
PRICE OF PlOST-]^okSES IN THE
KINGDOM OF NAPLES.
Oremi Boitds: Every dranght*h<irso,
and 6very saddle-Jiors^, six carlini^
and a half, per post.
Every pastUlion fifte^ji granii a
horse, per post.
Hostler, at provincipal post-houses,
half a cariino for every pair of hortes
— Jiostler, at the Naples post-house,
otie earliiio £ot every pair of horses.
Cross RoixdB. Every draught>hors^
nine cilrlini, per post;
Eviery poiitiUioiL, two issrlitu per
post;
Every carriage with two inside
places, furnished by a post-master, five
carllni ; and every c^trriage with four
inside places, (furnished by a post-
master,) ten carlini per post.
A postillion expects six carlini a
post.
For a post-royai, in the Neapolitan
territories, an extra half -post is
charged.
Post-meters are prohibited from
supplying Travelers with post-horses,
unless authorised By an Order from
the Director General of the Poets at
Naptea, dr a Provineiai Dirtecter.
Hostlers in Italy are seldbm (»5&.
tented with less than twice their due :
and the person who throws water
over the wheels of travelling carriages
(a necessary operation in hot weather),
expects half a paul for his trouble.
An English post-chaise, with shafts,
convteying two or three persons only,
and not heavily laden, is allowed to
travel with two, or, at most, three
horses, in those parts of northern Italy
which are not mountainous : but, if
the carriage convey four persons, it is
not allowed to travel with less than
four horses. A eeileche^ conveying
three persens and only one trunk, is
allowed to travel with two horses.
In Tuscany, if the road be not
mountainous, an English post-chaise^
with a pole, conveying three persona
and no trunk, is allowed to travel
with two horses only: but English
carriages conveying four persons and
trunks, are not allowed to travel with
less than four horses. In the Eccle-
siastical Territories, a two -wheeled
carriage^ conveying three pers'ons, and
only one trunk, is allowed to travel
with two horses; but, if it convey
more than one trunk, three horses are
indispensable : and persons who travel
with more than two large trunks, are
subject to a tax of Wo pauls per post
for every extra*trank, vache, or port-
manteau. A four-whiseled carriage,
with a pole^ conveying six persons and
(me trunk, is allbwed to travel with
only four horses; but if it oonvejF
seven persons, or six persons and two
large trunks, six horses are indispen-
8abie« A four-wheded carriage, half
open, and conveying only two persons^
and one small trunk, is allowed to
travel with only two horses.
To the driver of every extra draught-
hnrse^it is customary to give two pauls ;
though he cannot demand any remu-
neration.
in the Neapolitan Territories, a
four-wheeled carriage, conveying four
persons and one large trunk, is allowed
to travel with four horses only ; but
if it convey six persons, and two large
trunks, six horses are indispensable.
A two-wheeled carriage, conveying
two persons, and one large tnrnk, is
allowed to travel with two horses;
but, if it convey three persons and
a large trunk, thuete horses are indis-
t^nsable.
iTALf .] EXPANSE OF TRAVELLINa EN VOITURIEB, ic. W
Every post-mteter should be paidfor which ease an abaitemeiit is tatedto of
his horses before they set out. about two scudi.
^afts are not used either in the If passengers, merely to aoci^mmo-
Tuscan, Roman, or Neapolitan Ter> date themselves, re<}uire a Voiturier
ritories. to stop one or more days on the rodd,
The average price paid in Italy for he expects them tx> pay six fhincs
accommodations at Inns, by persons per night, for the provender of each of
who travel post, is as follows. his horses.
Pauls "^ Voiturin commonly pays in Italy
Breakfast, per head, m large towni . . 3' fw his PasSBngeni> the ft^loinng prices
—^ InanidltoTWtt . . 2 at inns :
Dinner, per head. In larga towns • • • W Breakfast, per head, fwwn a pauI
■ in small towns ...8 j -i. ^e ^ f ij* ^t ..
Beds, ftom three to five pauls each. and a half, to two pauls— dmner, thre»
pauls — supper and bed, five pauls ;
It is more oeconomical, and less trou- but Foreigners who pay fbrthemselvei
blesome in Italy, to tr3.ve\ en voiturier^ at inns can seldom, if ever, make Ml
than to travel post ; but persons who good a bargain,
accomplish a long journey with the Italian and Swiss Voiturins ustMtty
same horses, must, generaUy speaking, pay for their passengers, in FrAnce^
travel slower than if they changed four francs a hcwl for supper and beds |
horses at every pOst; and thereifore and about two francs for dinner,
tfabse who follow the latter plan, need Italian and Swiss voiturins likewise
not rise so early as those who follow pay, for permission to trftvd in Fmnoe^
the fonner. If a Voiturin have good a tax of five sous a horse, per post,
horses, they will go from forty to fifty An Italian Voiturin is bblig«d M
Roman miles a day ; arriving, in due secure his outside trunks with adiain t
time, at the destined sleeping-places; itnd if he leave a Town befon day-
Mules are less expeditious^ because light, he is obliged to take a goard^
they s^dom trot. for his trunks, from his sleeping-
Person^ who travel in their own place to the gate of the Town;
carriage are usually expected to give As Neapolitan Voiturins are the
Italian Voiturins from ten to twelve worst in Italy, because notorious for
francs a day per draught -horse : six breaking their engagements, TravibU
francs a day for each master ; three lers should avoid going «n voitwier^
francs a day for each child ; and four from Naples to B^me ; unless it be
francs and a half a day for each ser- with the P<)st-ttiafiter's horses;
vant : and for this price he furnishes
good horses, or mules, together with
breakfut, supper, and beds ; but, if the TtTSCAi^lT.
Voitnrinoonvev Travellers in a carriage
belonging to himself, he seldom ex. cuaEENT coins.
pects more than three quarters of the
aboVe-nained price; because he can Ruspone,
make a considerable profit by filling Zecchind,
the carriage with passengers on his FranceMme^ov ScudoK
return. Half ditto.
The bttonamano usually given to a Piece of three poo/i , or pauls.
Voiturier, if he behave well, is about Piec^ of two paoiu
half a Spanish dollar per day. Lira.
The fiare, in a public carriage, from Pao/o: *
Florence to Rome, and likewise from Mexzo-paoh.
Rome to Naples^ is ten scudi, suppers Piece of two crtatie^ four tif whioli
and beds inclusive ; ^^nd twelve scudi, make one pcoHo^ or pate/,
dinners, suppers, and beds inclusive: Crazia^ eijght Of which make on<b
unless it be a vaiture de tetcmr^ in paul;
• Tax pauls make one Franoescone* <Jr cany, for about forty-two psuls $ and a Nipo-
scudo ; winch is five francs and sixty centimes leon for about thirty-six pauls : but the value
of France. of Fzenck goU is fluct u ating.
An Old Louls-d'or is usually current in Tua^
i68 APPENDIX. [Ch.IV.
Quatirhoy five of which make one regard to buonamano to attendants at
crazia, inns, the Waiter usually expects about
Soidoy one of which makes three one paul per day from each Gentleman
quattrini. or Lady, and the Chamber-maid still
The one-paul piece of Rome is cur^ less ; that is, if Travellers reside at
rent for one paul of Tuscany. an inn by the week or month ; but, if
The two-paul piece of Rome is cur- they come for a few nights only, they
rent for two pauls of Tuscany, want- are expected to pay more liberadly.
ing four quattrini. The wages of a Valet-de-place^
The Spanish dollar is usually cur- throughout Tuscany, is five pauls by
rent for about nine pauls and a half, the day, and four by the month, he
This coin is frequently called a pezzo- finding himself in board, lodging, and
duro. clothes.
The real value of the ruspone is
only sixty pauls ; but it can seldom be LEGHORN,
purchased under sixty-three; owing
to the agio on gold: and, from the The price of dose carriages here
same cause, the zeeehino^ which is is rather exorbitant; but, open car-
worth only twenty pauls, can seldom riages called Timonelli, may be hired
be purchased under twenty-one. on reasonable terms.
Bankers* accounts throughout Tus- The price of a box at the Theatre
cany, are kept in pezze^ soldi, and varies according to the merit of the
danari ; or lire, soldi, and danari. Performers ; but is usually high. The
Twelve danari make one s(ddo ; entrance-money paid by English Tra-
twenty soldi make one lira • ; five lire vellers, exclusive of the price of a box,
and fifteen soldi, or, at most, six is three pauls for an opera, and two for
lire, make the imaginary coin called a play.
a pezze, or piece of eight ; and for Tea, coffee, sugar, English mustard,
each of these, a Banker diarges so foreign wines, brandy, rum, arrack,
many English pence, according to the porter, Bi-istol-beer, and Gorgona an-
exdbange, when he gives cash for a chovies, may all be purchased cheaper
bill upon London -f*. Bankers, ac- at Leghorn than in any other City of
cording to the Tuscan law^ are obliged Italy ; so likewise . may soap, starch,
either to pay in gold, or to allow an and hair-powder.
agio if they pay in silver : the agio Micali, in Via Grande, has a magf.
varies from week to week, according nificent shop, containing sculpture in
to the demand for gold. alabaster and Carara marble ; paintings.
The pound weight of Tuscany is jewellery, silks, linens, muslins, ^c.
divided into twelve ounces ; the ounce Linen-drapery and silks may be
into twenty-four deniers ; and the purchased very cheap of the Jews : and
denier i nto twenty-four grains. The persons who wear fiannel should provide
Tuscan ounce is somewhat less than themselves with a stock at L^horn, as
the English. it is sometimes difficult to find this
The common Tuscan measure, called useful article of clothing in other parts
a braccio, is about twenty-two English of Italy. Dunn, Porta-Colonnella,
inches and a half; two braccia making sells flannel, and other English mer-
one ell. chandise.
Prices at the principal Hotels are Masi is a grood printer ; and often
much the same in Leghorn, Pisa, and reprints English works : he likewise
Florence ; namely, for a large apart- has a reading-room, with a large col-
ment from twenty to thirty pauls a lection of French and Italian authors,
day; and for smaller apartments. Provisions at Leghorn are, generally
from ten to fifteen pauls a day. For speaking, good ; butter and oil, how-
breakfast, from two to three pauls a ever, must be excepted ; as both are
head. For dinner, from eight to ten very indifferent ; but it is easy to ob-
pauls a head. For servants, from four viate this inconvenience, by having-
to five pauls a head per day : and with Cascina butter from Pisa, and oil from
- A «m of Tuscany is one paul and a half. favour of England, every paul costs about flve-
t If the exchange \», |ui it usually is, in pence halfpenny,
Italy.] LEGHORN* ^ 489
Lari. Carriers, called Proeaeciniy go place in the Diligence, from Leghorn,
daily to the former place ; and from to Florence, twenty-five pauls.
the latter the Peasants come to sell It is not advisable for Travellers to
poultry, fruit, ^c, at Leghorn, three hire a country residence near X<eg-
or four times a week. horn, its environs being unwholesome.
Invalids may be regularly supplied
with good asses' milk at one crazia abbival and depaktube of
the ounce; (the usual price through- letteb-coubieks.
out Tuscany ;) goats' and cows' milk
may likewise be procured with ease ; Sunday^ arrive letters from all
but persons who make a point of parts of Tuscany, Elba, Lucca, Rome,
having the last quite genuine, should Naples, Sicily, Lombardy, Venice,
send into the.couhtry for it ; and with Trieste, Switzerland, Holland, Ger-
respect to asses' mUk, it is requisite many, and all northern Europe,
for some trusty person to watch the Monday^ from Pisa, Pietrasanta,
milking of the ass, in order to prevent Lucca, Massa, Piedmont, Genoa,
the infusion of hot water *. France, Spain, and Portugal.
Malta and Genoa oranges, dates, Wedneadayy from the same places
and EngUsh potatoes, may frequently as on Sunday, Elba excepted ; and
be purchased at Leghorn. There is likewise from Great Britain, France,
an oyster-house near this City, and Spain, Portugal, Piedmont, and Ge-
the oysters are good, but extremely noa.
dear. Figs and grapes, in their season, Friday^ from the same places as
are abundant and excellent ; particu- on Wednesday ; and likewise from
larly the white fig, and small trans- Elba.
parent white grape; the last of which, Monday ^ go letters for Tuscany,
if gathered dry, put into paper bags, Elba, Lucca, Naples, Sicily, Rome,
and hung up in an airy room, may be Lombardy, Venice, Trieste, Switzer-
preserved all the winter. The best land, Holland, Germany, and all
sort of dried figs is generally sold in northern Europe ; Great Britain,
small baskets of about one foot long Spain, and Portugal, and the northern
and four or five inches wide. Levant part of France.
figs and Spanish raisins may be pur- Tuesday^ for Pisa, Pietrasanta,
chased at Leghorn ; and about the Massa, Lucca, Piedmont, Genoa, and
month of September large numbers of the central part of France,
small birds, resembling the English Wednesday^ for the same places aa
whcateai*, and called in Italian becca- on Monday, Elba excepted.
fichi^ are caught daily on the plain Thursday^ for the same places as
near this Town. Ortolans are found on Tuesday.
in southern Italy, during part of the Friday^ for Tuscany, Elba, Lucca,
summer. Rome, Naples, Sicily, Lombardy,
A Tuscan barrel of wine contains Venice, Trieste, Germany, and all
twenty Basks, and a barrel of oil six- northern Europe, Holland, Switzer-
teen flasks. M^'ood is sold by the land, the north of France, Great
catastre, the dimensions of which Britain, Spain, and Portugal,
should be these : length, braccia six ; Saturday^ for the same places as on
breadth, bracciaosie and a half; height, Tuesday and Thursday.
br€u:c%a two. The respective Couriers arrive about
A Public carriage goes daily from half past eight in the morning ; and
Leghorn to Pisa. depart about half past six in the even-
Public boats likewise go daily by ing.
means of the Canal ; and the passage- Letters are usually delivered about,
money in these vessels is six crazie^ nine in the morning ; and must be
or, at most, one paul for each person, put into the post-office before six in
The price of a private boat is from ten the evening, and franked for every
to twelve livres ; and the price of one place, Tuscany not excepted.
- The man who milks the ass usually carries, milk so exp^y (hat it is difficult to detect
under his cloak, a bottle filled with hot water ; him,
some of which be contrives to mix with the
ATPBIOIIX. ItSk. IV.
The entrflDCtf-monsf paM by Engliali
PISA. TraveUen, ezdusiTe of the hire of »
box, is two paols.
A Custom-home Offioer follows The hire of a carriage and horses^
TraTeUers to their inn, or lodgimr, coachman^s wages inclusive, is from
when they enter Pisa, and expects a eighteen tb twenty sequins a month ;
fee of five paub. A Band of Musi- and the price for an airing, bu&na-
cians likewise waits upon Strangers at mane inclusive, is ten pauls.
their arrival, and expects from three The wages of a Housemaid, through-
fo five pauls. out southern Italy, is about three
crowns a month and a dinner; sh4
BEST toDGiwo-HOUSES. AvCRAOE finding hersdf iu lodging, bread, and
paiCE iir wiWTEE. wme— the wages of a Footman from
four to eight crowns and a dinner ; he
Casa-Agostini, liung* Amo, No. finding himself in brenl and wine—
722, about twenty sequins per month, the wages of a Housemaid who finds
— Casa.Bertolli, liung* Amo, No. herself in bed and board, and fetches
721, large and handsome apartments, Foniltain-water, is at Pisa one lira
a third floor, about thirteen sequins a per day * — and the wages of a good
month. — No. 742, Via-Gorraia; rooms Cook, throughout sonthem Italy, is
small, but neat, and sufficient in num- from ten to twelve crowns per month
her for two persons ; price moderate, and a dinner, he finding himsdf in
Casa-Lenzi, Lung' Amo, about twenty lodging, bread and wine, and anAs**
sequins a month.^-No. 951, Via di sistant to wash saucepans, dishes, 4pP.t
Sapienza, two suites of handsome The price of dinner, per head, at A
apartments. — No* 0d4, Lung* Amo, Bestannani^ table-wine and bread in«
one suite of good apartments ; thirty dusive^ is from three to five pauls.
sequins a month_Marble Palace, Families who have their dinner
liung* Arno; fine apartments.-l-Ca8a- daily from a Traiteur should not order
Chiesa, a good apartment. — ^Casa-Ran, it per heftd, but per dish ; specifying^
fine apartments.— Casa-Panichi,lAing* the kind of dinner they require, and
Arno, No. 716, a neat apartment an the price they choose to give,
the first ilobr, large enough for three Therb aie various sorts of fire-wood
persons. — No. 887, Via S. Maria, at Pisa: thBt eaUed iegna (Mee is the
fourteen well*fumished rooms, and a most wholesome ; though it oonsumes
small garden; twenty sequins a month, very quick 1 that called hiffna /arte
if taken for half a year. All these is usuallv burnt in kitchens ; but may
lodging-houses are well situated for be mixed with the others for parlour-
Invalids : other apartments, whidi consumption ; though it is not whde-
have not this advantage, let at a much some in bedrooms. Venders of wood
lower price. Rooms sufficient to ac- frequently cheat in the measure, csther
commodate a moderate sized family by bringing a braeoio to measure with,
may usu^y be hired at Le Tre Don^ not so long as the law directs, or by
jre//efor about twenty sequins a month, placing the wood hollow, and thiM
The price of every lodging, however, making it appear more than it is.
varies from year to Tear, according to The husks of olives serve for fuel«
the number of Foreigners. The hire are an excellent substitute for char-
of linen per month is generally about coal, and in olive-countries very cheap,
five sequins for a large family ; but Invalids always find it necessary to
linen and plate are commonly found by mat their rooms during winter, in
the owners of lodging-houses. order to avoid the chill which strikes
Boxes at the Theatre may be pro- to the soles of the feet from bride and
cured on very moderate terms; except marble floors. Mats of all lengths
during the last week of Carnival, when may be {Purchased on the Quay ; the
the price is considerably augmented, price is half a paul the braceio ; and
• By Fountaia-Water \k meant that con- kitchen fire-wood: but fengUsh Travellera.
▼eyed to Pisa through the Aqueduct. who are accompanied by honest En«li»h ser-
t It k m exceUent general role, eitlier not ySnts, always find It uiswer to let Uioee 1
to let your cook market for you, or to limit vant* market for them,
him to a certain sum for dinner, charcoal, and
IlfALT;] PISA. 4»\
every mat ought tob« tMTo braceia and cared by water carriage, and is not
a half wide. only pleasant to the taste, but salutary
The Pisa-market is, generally speak- to most constitutions. — There are
i'^ST) A good one; though fresh fish several kinds of Florence-wine; and
can never be abs<dutely depended upon that usually drank as common table-
but on Fridays, unless it be in Lent, beverage, costs from a paul and a half
The best fishes are the dory, called to two pauls the flask.
pesoe di S, Pietro s the grey and the Scales and weights are necessary
red mullet, called irifflia ; the tnrbot, articles of kitchen furniture in Italy,
called romho ; the thunny, called Persons who wish to be instructed
tonno ; the lamprey, called lampreda ; in music, drawing, and the Italian
sturgeon, called storione; ombrina^ and French languages, may procure
pesce-cavallo^ spada^ dentid^ parapo^ good masters, upon moderate terms^
the sole, called sogliola ; the Medi- at Pisa.
terranean lobster, called ffambero di The fee usually given in Italy to
mares prawns and shrimps. The fish British Physicians, by British Tra-
which c<Mnes from Via Regglo is ge- vellers, is about the value of a guinea
nerally excellent. The tench and carp for three visits ; and Italian Physi-^
at Pisa are remarkably fine ; so like- cians expect, from British Travellers,
wise are the pike, and other fishes, of about the value of a Napoleon for three
the Amo and Serchio *. The mutton visits-: but for a few visits only, the
of Pistoja, which may frpquently be usual fee to British Physicians is not
purchased at Pisa, is excellent in point less than a Napoleon.
of flavour, and particularly light of Italians usually give their Physi-
digestion. The Lucca-veal, frequently cians from three to five pauls a visit,
sold at Pisa, is excellent. Beef and Casa-Mecherini, the principal bank,
pork are very fine; turkeys good; ing.housQ at fisa, will supply Fo-
capons and fowls indifferent ; hares reigners with money ; but it is more
excellent; other game plentiful, but advaAtageoustoprocure it at Leghorn,
not always . so well-flavoured as in The price of common shoes is eight
England. Wild-fowl good and plen- pauls the pair, whether for men (v
tiful. Venison may be purchased women.
both in spring and autumn, but is The price for making a mab*t9 suit
reckoned best during the latter sea- of clothes about twenty pauls, all
son. Wild-boar may be purchased charges inclusive,
during winter and spring. With re- The price for making a Lady's dress
spect to vegetables, the broccoli and nine or ten pauls, besides body-lining.
salads are particularly good ; but ve- Sig. Antonio Peverata, Bookseller,
getables in Italy, salad excepted. No. 694, Lung' Arno, is an honest
should, generally speaking, be stewed, man, and very useful to Foreigners.
or they may probably disagree with Pisa may be called a cheap place
weak stomachs. Pisa is well supplied for permanent residence ; as may
with grapes, figs, pears, apples, and Pistoja, Florence, and Siena; because,
other winter fruits, the best of which supposing the exchange in favour of
^me from Florence and Pistoja. The England, (which it commonly is
butter made at the Royal Cascina throughout Tuscany,) a moderate
is excellent t* Good cows' milk and sized family might, in any of the
cream may be purchased at the above- above-named cities, live handsomely
named Cascina, Good oil may be for six hundred pounds sterling per
bought at some of the palaces ; as annum ; and even large families who
every Tuscan nobleman sells the pro- visit Italy, either for the purpose of
duce of his olive-gardens and vine- educating their children, or of travel,
yards. With respect to table-wine, ling from place to place in search
that of Pisa is unwholesome; but of amusement, will not, if they
that of Florence may easily be pro- know how to avoid imposition, find
- What Italiaiu deem the best fishes axe this particulai:.
distfaigutohed by the appellation of Peace No- + Pisa butter supplies the Roman Markete,
bilei the taste of Englishmen, however, does and suffers very litUe from its journey,
not exactly agree with that of the Italians in
498 APPENDIX. [Ch. IV.
their disbursements exceed one thou- Plate and linen are generally found
sand pounds sterling per annum. For in the lodgings at Florence ; but, if
the purpose of education better mas« not found, the hire of linen for a large
ters may usually be procured at Flo- family is about Ave sequins a month,
rence than in any other Italian city. Noble apartments unfurnished may
The regulations of the Post-office be hired by the year for, comparatively
at Pisa, and the days on which the speaking, nothing,
respective Letter-Couriers arrive and Two Offices have recently been
depart, are the same as at Leghorn. established in this City, for the pur-
The price for franking a single pose of giving information with re-
letter to England is six crazie. spect to vacant Lodging-houses ; one
The price of one place in the Dili- is on the Lung* Arno, and the other
gence from Pisa to Florence is a sequin, in Via della Condotta.
Persons going from Pisa to Florence Board and lodging for a Lady, or
had better not have their baggage Gentleman, in an Italian family, tea
plumbed, it being necessary either to and foreign wine not inclusive, usually
undergo an examination, or present costs about fifteen sequins a month,
the Custom-house Officers in the Atthe Hotel desJrmesd* An gl^terre^
latter City with five or ten pauls, kept by Gasperini, a Family, consisting
according to the quantity and quality of four Masters and four Servants,
of the luggage. • may have a good apartment, breakfast,
excellent dinners, tea, wax-lights, and
night-lamps, for eighty francesconi a
FLORENCE. week : and Restaurateurs will usually
supply four Masters and four Servants
• Some of the best Hotels, and some with breakfast, dinner, a good dessert,
of the best private Lodging-houses in and two bottles of table-wine, together
Italy, are to be found at Florence ^ and with milk and butter for tea, at five
the price of good apartments, com- scudi a day.
pared with the prices at Rome and The price, per head, for breakfast
Naples, is not exorbitant. at a Coffee-house is about one paul •,
and the price, per head, for dinner,
at a Restaurant^ or a Table-d*h6te^ is
from three to five pauls, table-wine
Palazzo S. Clemente, Via S. Bas- inclusive,
tiano, two suites of handsome apart- The price, per month, for a good
ments, each thirty sequins a month ; carriage and horses, coachman*s wages
a good garden ; and the warmest si- inclusive, is from twenty to twenty-
tuation in Florence — Palazzo-Strozzi, five sequins, according to the expense
Via della Scala, a fine house, and of provender.
beautiful garden; sixty sequins a Inn-keepers usually charge for their
month-^Palazzo-Corsi, Via-Ghibelli- carriages, by the day, about twenty
na, two suits of apartments, each pauls.
thirty sequins fbr one month only ; Provisions, in general, are gfood ;
but less if taken for a longer term — though fresh fish can only be procured
Palazzo-Quaratesi, Via d'ogni Santi, on Fridays and Saturdays. Figs,
one set of apartments, forty-five se- peaches, water-melons, and grapes are,
^uins a month ; another set twenty- in their respective seasons, excellent,
eight ditto— Casa-Pucci, opposite the Good cow's milk and good butter are
Teatro-Goldoni, is a good lodging— not to be obtained without difficulty ;
The Palazzo-Acciaioli, Lung' Arno, asses' milk is excellent ; and the wine
contains several apartments — Casa- made in the neighbourhood of Florence
Riocasoli, Lung' Arno, is a pretty is palatable and wholesome : the best
house for a small family : and in the sorts, called Vino Santo^ Leatico^ and
Piazza S. Maria Novella, and several Artimino^ come from the vicinity of
other parts of the Town, small apart- Fiesole ; where the oil, likewise, is
ments may be easily met with. good. Ice (or more properly speaking
• Ea eT cup of coffee usually oorts two crasie; every cup of chocolate tomething more.
LODGINa-HOUSES. AVEBAOE PRICE
IK WINTER.
Italy.] FLORENCE. 493
frozen snow) costs two pauls and a Molini, to whom his hooks are con-
half for every hundred pounds. signed ; and who delivers them to their
The best medicines are sold at the purchasers, on receiving the amount
Farmacia Formini, in the Piazza del of freight, duty, and insurance.
Granduca ; and by the Grand Duke's The best Silk-mercer is Burgagni,
Apothecary. near the Piazza del Granduca. Flo-
The average price of provisions is rence silks are of various qualities ;
as follows : one sort being from nine to ten pauls
Beef, of the best quality, from five the braccio ; another from six to seven ;
to six crazie the pound-^veal, seven and the slightest from three to five
crazie — ^mutton, six crazie — ^lamb, six pauls, according to the weight. The
crazie — pork, six crazie—- wild^boar, best Linen-drapers' shops are kept by
seven crazie — good fish, about twelve Jews, near the Mercato-nuovo. Shoes
crazie — and the best bread, about four and boots are, generally speaking,
crazie. Turkeys usually cost about better made at Florence' than in any
one paul per pound — ^large fowls about other part of Italy : the usual price
three pauls and a half each — small charged for the former is eight pauls
fowls about two pauls each — pigeons, the pair ; and for the latter from thirty
one paul and a half each — ducks, three to forty pauls. Florentine Tailors
pauls each — wild-ducks, ditto — par- charge for making a man's suit of
tridges, ditto — woodcocks, ditto — a clothes from twenty to twenty-five
beccafico costs from three to five crazie pauls. Ladies Dress-makers usually
— an ortolan from six crazie to a paul — charge twelve pauls for making a
and the best table-wine from one paul trimmed dress, and nine for making a
and a half to two pauls the flask. Ca- plain one. There are several good
roll, a good Grocer in the Via della Ck>achmakers at Florence. PesteUini,
Croce, charges for Levant coffee, un- Money-changer, near the Piazza del
burnt, from twenty-two crazie to three Duomo, will supply Travellers who
pauls the pound ; and for West Indian are going to Rome with dollars and
coffee two pauls the pound. Lowe, Roman scudi at a lower price than
in the Palazzo-Ferroni, S\ Trinita, they are current for in the Ecdesias-
usually chai'ges for pearl tea, per tical State. Fire-wood at Florence is
pound, twelve pauls — for Hyson, ten — from thirty-five to thirty-eight pauk,
■ for Souchong, from eight to twelve, the catastre ; and charcoal from three'
according to its quality — for Moka to four pauls a sack,
coffee, three pauls and a half — and for The sum given to a Notary-public,
arrow-root, twelve pauls. He like- for his seal and attestation, is ten pauls.
wise sells sugar, and other groceries ; Vieusseux, Piazza S*. Triniti, has
good foreign wines and spirits ; (bis the best Public Reading-rooms and
Marsala is excellent) haberdashery. Circulating Library in Italy; and
patent medicines, eau de Cologne, anti- provides, for the perusal of Subscribers,
attrition, fish sauce ; and a variety of French, English, German, and Italian
English articles. Newspapers, and other periodical pub»
Sig. Giuseppe Molini has a good lications. The Subscription for a
Printing-office, at N°. 823, Piazza di twelvemonth is, pauls 120 — for six
S\ Maria in Campo; and likewise a months, 75 — three months, 45 — for
large Library for sale. He has also one month, 20 — for a fortnight, 16 —
kept for several years, in the Via degli and for a week, 10.
Archibusieri, a large Bookseller's A box at the Pergola may generally
Shop ; containing, besides books and be obtained for fifteen, or, at most,
engravings, English paper, pens, pen- twenty pauls ; but every British Tra-
cils, &c. ; but this shop he is about to veller pays three pauls for admission,
relinquish, in consequence of having besides the expense of the box. At
been appointed Librarian to the Grand the Cocomero, and the Teatro-nuovo,
Duke of Tuscany. Sig. Molini under- boxes usually cost from eight to twelve
takes to send to London any quantity pauls ; and* every British Traveller
of books which British Travellers may pays, for admission at these Theatres,
purchase of him. He has, in Pater- two pauls over and above the price of
noster Row, a Relation, Mr. Frederick a box.
«M
APPENDIX.
[Ch. IV.
The best Music-Masters charge ten
pauls a lesson ; other Masters do not
charge more than five. Sig. Morani
teaches Itaban remarkably welL
The most distinguished Sculptors
are Ricd, Bartolini, and Pisanij*.
Gulflocher, in Borgo-Ogni-Santi,
No. 3061, sells alabaster.
Ermini is a good Painter ; and may
usually be found at the Royal Aca-
demy.
Bankers at Florence give the same
•Kchange, and nearly the same affio,
as at Leghorn. Messrs. Donat Orsi,
and Co., in the Piazza del Granduca,
are honourable in their dealings, and
very obliging to Foreigners ; as is Sig.
Sebastiano Kleiber, in Via-Larga.
The best Padrani di vetture at Flo-
rence are Balzani, who may always be
heard of at the Aquila Nera ; and
Mocali, nella Vigna nuova. No. 4120.
The latter at the present moment,
1027, has more business than the
former -f*.
ABRIVAL AND DEFA&TURS OF
L£TT£R-COU]lI££S.
Monday, about one in the after-
noon, arrive letters from Great Bri-
tain, France, Spain, Piedmont, Swit-
serland, Genoa, Sarzana, Massa, Lucca,
Pisa, &c.
Tuesday, at nine in the momiltg,
from Leghorn, Lucca, Pisa, the King-
dom of Naples, Rome, Siena, Pescia,
Pistoja, Prato, and Volterra: and
Tuesday, ahout ten in the morning,
from Germany, Russia, Prussia, Flan-
ders, Switzerland, Trieste, Venice, Up-
per Italy, Bologna, Perugia, Cortona,
Castiglion-Fioi-entino, and ArezzQ.
Wednesday, from the same places as
on Monday.
Thursday, at nine in the morning,
• Travellers who purchase alabagter, for the
{Rupose of having tt gent to Great Britain by
sea, should deal with Pisani; whose punctu-
ality may be relied on.
t Laundresses in Tuscany commonly charge
for washing and ironing as fbUows :
Sheets, per pair crasie IS
Pillow-cases, each 1
TabJe-cloth, if large 6
Napkin 1
Towel I
Shirt, if plain, crazie 6; if frilled 7
Shift...:. 4
Drawers 4
Pantaloons 8
COTKt ft
from Leghorn, lAieca, Porto^ferrajo,
Piombino, and Pisa; Siena, Pistoja,
Prato, and Volterra — ^and about ten in
the morning from Germany, Russia,
Pru88ia,F]anders, Switzerland,Trie8te,
Venice,Upper Italy, Bologna, the King,
dom of Naples, Rome,Perugia,Cortona,
Castigllon-Fiorentino, and Areaszo.
Friday, from the same places as on
Monday and Wednesday.
Saturday, at nine in the morning,
from Porto-ferrajo, Piombino, Leg-
horn, Lucca, Pisa, the Kingdom ef
Naples, Rome, Siena, Cortona, Oas-
tigfion-Ftorentino, Arezzo, Pescia, Pis-
toja, and Prato.
Tuesday, at four o'chch post^meri-^
dian, go letters for Germany, Russia,
Prussia, Flanders, Switzerland, Trieste,
Upper Italy, Bologna, Great Britain,
France, Spain, Piedmont, Genoa, Sar-
zana, Massa, Lucca, Pisa, L^hom,
Siena, Rome, the Eangdom of Naples,
Arezzo, Cortona, Castiglion-Fioren-
tino, Prato, Pistoja, Pescia, and Vol-
terra.
Thursday, about one 6*chck post-
meridian, for Aresao, Castiglion-Fio-
rentino, Cortona, Perugia, Rome, and
the Kingdom of Naples: ^d about
four o*'chck post-meridian, for Ger-
many, Russia, Prussia, Flanders, Swit-
zerland, Trieste, Upper Italy, Bologna,
Great Britain, France, Spain, Pied-
mont, Genoa, Sarzana, Massa, Piom.
bino, Porto-ferrajo, Lucca, Pisa, and
Leghorn ; Siena, Pistoja, Prato, and
Volterra.
Saturday, about four o'clock posh
meridian, for Germany, Russia, Atis-
sia, Flanders, Switzerland, Trieste^
Upper Italy, Bologna, Great Britain,
France, Spain, Piedmont, Genoa, Sar-
zana, T^ucca, Massa, Siena, Rome, the
Kingdom of Naples, Arezzo, Cortona,
Castigllon-Fiorentino, Perugia, Pis-
Pocket-handkerchief 1
Neckcloth 1
Kitchen-apron a
Pockets, per pair 2
Sleeping waistcoat 4
Night-cap, if not trimmed 8
Silk-stocKings, per pair 4
Cotton -stocKings, per pair 8
Plain white dresses, each 16
Petticoats, eadi • 8
Persons who wish to be economical in Italy
should have their linen washed out of tU
house, and ironed at home.
Fxaacesca Lambardi, in the Piassa-Stn^rub
rito. No. W!9, is a good LaundreM,
Italy.] ROME* 48§
toja, Prato, and Bescia : and, ai sighi in too elevated a situation for weak
o^elook in the eveninp^ for Leghoi'n, lungs.
Pisa, Piombino, and Pwto-ferrajo. Pala»o.Bruciarto, near the Porta
Letters for every country, Tuscany S. Gallo, an excellent house, in rather
excepted, must be franked, and put too warm i^ situation for summer,
into the Post-Office before noon, every Villa-Careggi de' Medici, a most
day except Saturday, when they are excellent house, in a cool, dry, and
received till three o'clock. healthy situation.
couNTRY-HOfisPa vEAR Fi o '^^^^ ^^^ ^ ^^ ndghbourhood of
couNTaY-HOusEs ^EAR TLQ. mc^oU^ Several other Vilks, whid^
REKCE. ^jgj^^ y^ ^^^^ ^^^^ Midsummer tiU
Villa-Mattei, near the Porta S. the commencement of the vintage : as
Gallo, a large house. the Tuscans seldom occupy their ooun-
Villa del €av. Gerini, on the Bo- try-houses till the end of September,
logna-road; a good house, well fur. when the vintage begins. From
nished, and delightfully situated. twenty to thirty sequins a month,
Villa- Vitelli, at Piesole, healthy and plate and linen inclusive, is the highest
«ool. price demanded for the best Tuscan
Villa-Baroni, at Fiesole, ditto, but Villas.
Cha?tee V.
ITALY.
Money of Rome— Baoken^ accountB— Pound-weight— Measures— Hotels and other Lodging-
houses— Best water— Best air— Prices of the best Lodgings— Prices charged by Tvdteur^-*
Price <tf dinner per head at the houses of Restaurateui»— of breakfast at a Coffee-house— of
Job-carriages and horses— Expense of keeping your own carriage — Hackney-coaches — Wages
of a Valet-^e-place— Fire-wood— Butchers* meat, wild>fowl, poultry, fish, and other eatames-
— Tallow candles — Charcoal— Best nmrkeU for fruit and v^etahles — Wines of the country—
Foreign wines — Best C^fectioner — Oil — Honey — Tea — Grocers — Rum — Best Wax-candle^-«
Medidnes — Woollen cloth— Furs — Roman peans — Silk Mercer — Milliner — ^Professor o^ Lan>
guages— Music Masters— Dancing Masters— DrawingMasters— Ancient bronaes, ^.— Sulphurs
— Roman Mosaics— Sequoia, and paintings all' Encausto— Bronze lamps, and silver plate~
Stationer — Manuscript music — Prints and Drawings — English writing paper, and EngUsh
books-— Circulating Library — Calcografia Camerale— Fees to Medical Men— Theatres— price
of boxes— Unfurnished apartments — Procaccio ftom Rome to Naples Best Ropum Vetturino
— Post-Uj&ce— Neapolitan Territories— Passports — ^Fees to Custom-house Officers— Money of
Naples — Exchange — Common Neapolitan measure, pound-weight, and rotolo^Hotels and
■other Lodging-houses at Naples— Job-carxiages — Expense of kecqptaig your own carriage — of
keeping a saddle-horse— Hackney carriages— Wages of a Valet-de-place— of a Cook— Mode in
which persons who keep their own cook should order dinner — ^Priceof unfurnished Apart-
ments— Price usually paid by Families who have their dinner from a Traiteur— Price per
hMd for dinner at a Restaurateur's— of breakfast at a Coflfee-house— of Butchers' meat, fish,
poultry, and cheese, bread, oil, butter, Sorrento hams, tea, coffee, sugar, ice. and wines
made in the Neapolitan 'Territories— Firewood, charcoal, wax and tallow candles— English
- Warehouses— Naples sUks, gauzes, ribands, ^c— Sorrento s^ stockingsi— Musical instru-
ment strings— Circulating Library— Borel's Licurary— Stationer— Coachuiaker-EngUsh Me-
dical Men— Music Master— Dancing Master— Price of boxes at the Theatres — Arrival and
departure of Letter-Couriers and Procacci— Expense of franking letters, ^c— Piano di Sor-
rento—Price of Lodging-houses— Provisions— Oil, milk, wine of Sorrento and Capri— Char-
coal and fire-wood— Clotted cream— Quails— Articles not found at Sorrento— Boats which g9
daily from Sorrento to Naples and return the same evening— Passage-money-Meta- boats —
Best method of conveying a large Family frmn Naples to Sorrento — Post^fiice— Sorrento
reoommended as a cheap place for permanent residenfce— Physician there— Compamtive
view of expenses in various parts of the Continent.
MezzO'SCudo . five jpaqH,
ROM£. Piece of thiee paoli.
Piece of two ptwii.
Piece of one paolo,
Do^a^ worth thirty-two paoH and Mezzo-paoh,
pne baio^chQ, Baioccho^ wor^h ^h^ tenth j^^rX o£ ^
Sctido • • • tea^4«^* paoh.
MOITEY OF ROME.
406 APPENDIX. ICh. V.
The old Iiiiiujud'or is earrent at as do the Piazsa-Gploima, and the
Rome for forty-four pauls — ^the Na- PalazEO-Cardella, near Via di Ripetta ;
poleon for thirty-seven pauls — and the in which street, likewise, several lo^-
Spanish dollar for ten pauls. ings ma^ be met with. The Piazza
Bankers* accounts are kept in pauls^ de* Santi Appstoli contains good apart-
The Roman pound-weight is twelve ments. The Palazzo-Sceva, and the
ounces ; the Roman canna is about Palazzo-CoUicola, jiear the Forum of
two yards and a quarter English mea- Trajan, contain good apartments ; as
•ore ; and the Roman meMsantile does the Palazzo-Maggi, near the Ca-
^ifio is between nine'and ten English pitol. No. 152, Via-Rasella, is a
inches. , large well situated house ; as is Casa-
Oiorgio, in the Lavatore del Papa.
HOTELS AND OTHER LODGIK6- The Palazetto-Albani, and the Villa-
HousES. ]Vliollis, are good houses ; but un-
wholesomely situated ; especially the
The principal Hotels at Rome have latter.
been axready named : and suites of The best water at Rome is that of
apartments m these Hotels cost from the Fontana di Trevi, and the Piazza
fifteen to thirty pauls a day, according di Spagna ; the best air, that of the
to their size and the number of beds centre of the Corso, the Piazza di
they contain. For a hot breakfast d Spagna, the Trinita de' Monti, the
la fourchette the usual charge, at the environs oCthe Fontana di Trevi, and
Europa, is five pauls — ^for dinner ten the Foro-Trajano, and its environs,
pauls— for each servant, per day, five The price lately given for the best
pauls — and for an apartment large apartments at Rome, plate and linen
enough to accommodate one Master inclusive, has been from thirty to
and four servants fifteen pauls per fifty Louis-d^ors a month. Large and
day. weU situated lodgings may, however.
The Piazza di Spagna consists be procured for about eighty scudi a
chiefly of Lodging-houses ; the warm- month ; and small apartments for
est of which is Casa-Rinaldini. half that sum*. The best Traiteurs
Via-San-Bastianello contains good usually charge English Families ten
lodgings ; as does the house called pauls a head for dinner, bread and
Mai^gariti^s, and situated on the ascent wine not inclusive ; and this dinner
to the Trinits^ de* Monti. The Pa- usually furnishes the servants with
lazzo-Palmieri, Via-Propaganda, con- ^ore than they can eat : but (as al-
tains good lodgings. The PaJazzo- ready mentioned) persons who get
Negrone is an excellent lodging-house; their dinner from a Traiteur^ ^ouXd
as likewise is No. 54, Via-Gregoriana. not order it per head, but per dish -I*.
No. 70, Piazza-Barberini, contains The Traiteur near the Palazzo-Sci.
good apartments. Via-Babuino, Via arra, on the Corso, will supply one
della Croce, Via-Condotti, Via-Frat- person with dinner for five pauls : and
tina, and Via de* due Macelli, abound at the houses of Restaurateurs in
with lodgings; as do Via-Vittoria, general a gentleman may be found in
Via-Pontefici, Via-Condotti, and Via- dinner, bread, and table-wine for five
Bocca di Leone : the Palazzo-Canino, pauls %, Breakfast at a Coffee-house
in the last named street, is a good usually costs about one paul, and the
lodging-house. The Palazzo-Gavotti, charge for every cup of coffee is two
the Palazzo-FianOj and the new part baiocchi.
of the Palazzo-Sciarra, (all on the The Restaurant at the Palazzo-
Corso,) contain good accommodations; Lepri, Via^-Condotti, is much fre-
- Persons who are not anxious to live in that sive, usually cost from twenty-five- to thirty
part of Rome which the English usually prefer, pauls. .
would do well to seek apartments in the Strada- % Ac the Palazzo-Fiano, in the Corso, thoe
Giulia ; where the rent of two or three good is a Restaurateur, who serves at a fixed price
rooms is not more than Arom ten to twelve per portion, as is done at Paris ; his charge for
scudi a month. a plate of good soup being baiocchi 2|— a plate
t Four or five dishes, sufficiently laxgfi to of bouillie, with vegetables, baiocchi 7i— a
supply four Masters and four Servants with a plate of roasted meat, ditto— a plate of common
plentiha dinner, bread and dessert not iudu- fruit 2 or 3 baiocchi; and a f ogUetta of good
table-wine from § to 10 baiocchi.
Italy.] ROME— PRICES OF VARIOUS ARTICLES. 407
quented; and Sauvan, No. 41, Piazza about eighteen baiocchi each — krge
di Spagna, is a good Traiteur, fowls, about twenty-fire baiocchi each
The price, per month, for a carriage — hares, from three to four pauls each
and horses, coachman^s wages inchi- — rabbits, twenty-five baiocchi each— .
sive, is from sixty to seventy scudi, capons, forty-five baiocchi each —
according to the expense of provender, turkeys (the best poultry in Italy,)
The price, per day, about twenty-four ten baiocchi a pound, and sometimes
pauls — and for four hours, either less — tame ducks, each, at least three
morning or evening, from ten to pauls — pigeons, two pauls each-.,
twelve pauls. A good carriage and quails, from four to eight baiocchi
horses may frequently be purchased each — ^beccafichi, from three to four
for about one hundred pounds ster- baiocchi each — ortolans, twelve baioc-
ling; and the expense of keeping chi each. — Soles, turbots, carp*, and
them, coachman's and footman's wages, other prime fishesi, from twelve to fif-
with grease for wheels inclusive, does teen baiocchi the pound — common fish
not, in Roman families, amount to from eight to ten baiocchi — dried sal.
more than twenty-six scudi per month, mon is ten baiocchi a pound— salted
A coachman's wages is eight scudi per cod, about five baiocchi. — Good butter
month, he finding grease and oil ; and about eighteen baiocchi the pound.-^
a footman's wages six scudi per month. Cows' milk, per foglietta, five baiocchi
They expect liveries once a year. — goats' milk, three baiocchi — Par-
Hackney carriages may usually be niesan cheese, from eighteen to twenty-
hired for four pauls the first hour, and two baiocchi the pound — Dutch cheese,
three pauls for each succeeding hour, seventeen baiocchi. — Brinzi, eighteen
These carriages stand in the Piazza di baiocchi — cream cheese seven baiocchi
Monte-Citorio. — Strachino di Miiano (particularly
The wages of a Vtdet-de-place .is good cheese) two pauls a pound, and
from four to five pauls a day, he find- sometimes less — Household bread, two
ing himself in every thing. baiocchi a pound — a pauetto, or roll.
Fire-wood is sold by the cart-load, always one baioccho — Spanish rollA,
which,, during winter, usually costs two baiocchi and a half each — Grapes,
about twenty-eight pauls, (but some- apples, pears, peaches, and apricots,
times much more) without carriage from two to four baiocchi the pound —
and porterage, and this comes to five. Oranges and lemons, if fine, a pgul
six, seven, or eight pauls, according to per dozen — best chesnuts, twelve for
where the wood is conveyed. The one baioccho — potatoes, two baiocchi
best wood may generally be obtained the pound — beans and peas, when
at the Ripetta. plentiful, from one baioccho and a half
Rome is better supplied with eat- to two baiocchi the pound — Eggs per
ables than any other City in Italy, dozen, from six to ten baiocchi — Wax
The average price of the best beef is lights from forty-three to forty-five
from seven to eight baiocchi a pound — baiocchi the pound — Spoleto-tallow
gravy-beef, from five to six baiocchi — candles, twelve baiocchi the pound —
mutton, from six to eight baiocchi — Roman ditto, ten baiocchi. — Charcoal,
lamb, six baiocchi — ^veal, from ten to per sack, containing about 1301b. sixty
fifteen baiocchi — kid, ten baiocchi— baiocchi — common wine, per foglietta,
excellent pork, from six to seven three baiocchi — Levant coffee, un-
baiocchi — excellent wild-boar, from six burnt, three pauls a pound — Marti-
to eight baiocchi — woodcocks, from nique coffee, unburnt, twenty-five
twenty to twenty-five baiocchi each — baiocchi — common green tea, about
a wild-goose, from four to five pauls — twelve pauls a pound, and black tea
-wild-ducks, ditto, per brace — widgeons the same price — pearl tea, sixteen
each, from fifteen to eighteen baiocchi pauls — common powder sugar, one
—and teale about one paul — par- paul a pound — best .sort, thirteen
tridges, from twenty-five to thirty- baiocchi — common loaf sugar, two
five baiocchi each — small chickens, pauls a pound. The best markets for
• The carp brought from the Lake of AI- larly delicious. The best fishes of the Tiber
bano to the Roman flsh-market, sometimes are the Stwrio, or sturgeon, and the Spigola, or
weigh tvreatf poiuds each ; and are particu- Lupus.
2 K
4d« APPENDflt. lCk» r»
fruit and iregetables are those of the pras, and Mala^. Gentxine wine <rf
Piazza-Narona and the Pantheon ; Nice may sometimes be purchased at
the melons of Perugia are remarkably the Palazzo- Borromeo, tot four pauls
good, as is the Roman brocoli. a bottle. The average price of Bor-
The wine of Orrietto, usually sold deaux Taffitte is eight pauls, and of
at fifteen or sixteen baiocchi the small the inferior sort six p4uls, the bottle^
flask, is good, but seldom genuine : in- The average price of good Marsala is
deed, the Romans are accused of adul- four pauls ; and of good Malaga flour
terating their white wines with a poi- pauls the bottle. Wine^-merdiants,
sonous metallic substance. The wines in general, allow from three to five
of Albano and Genzano, however, may baiocchi for every empty bottle, when
usually be purchased at the Scotch returned. No. 31, Via della Cinque,
College for two scudi and a half, or, is a good shop for Amaringa puffs and
at most, three scudi the barrel ; and sweetmeats : and No. 14, in the Corso,
we wholesome, because genuine. A near the Piazza-Colonna, is a cele-
barrel contains fourteen large flasks, brated shop for hams, bacon, and
and every large flask five fogliette. cheesel Hams, if whole, are seventeen
The fc^lietta is nearly an English baiocchi the pound; if cut, twenty
pint. Good Marsala, together with baiocchi.
French wines, spirits, tea, groceries, The best medicines are to be pur-
£nglish patent medicines, fish-sauces, chased at the Farmacia Marini Bo-
mustard, ^c, are sold by Lowe, No. rioni. Via del Babuino, No. 98 ; and
420, Corso. Foreign wines and spirits this shop contains excellent castor
are likewise sold by Sneid and Co., oil, Epsom salts, pearl barley, oat-
No. 7) Via-Condotti ; and this maga- meal, sago, and tolerably good bark.
zine cctntains excellent red and white The Spezieria del Collegio Romano
Falemian, from-Cotterell and Co. at likewise furnishes tolerably good
Naples. Townley, No. 68, Via- bark : but if medicines be wanted
Condotti, sells foreign wines and spi- during the night, they can only be
rits, flannel, and other English goods, procured at the Spezieria in the Via
French wines are sold by Sig. Bru- del Gambero.
nelli, Vicolo del Gallinaccio, Via due Furs are very good and not deal*.
Macelli, No. 9. Spillman, No. 81, Roman' pearls, if made and sold by
Via della Croce, sells good foreign Pozzi, No. 101, in Via-Pasquino, are
wines and spirits ; he is the best Con- well worth purchasing i but those
fectioner at Rome, and remarkably made and sold in Via-Padella, and
honourable in his mode of deiding; other places, are of a very inferior
his ices, and ponche a la Romaine^ are quality, and liable to turn yellow,
excellent. Oil varies in price from The best silk.mercer is Bianchi, No.
eight to twenty-four baiocchi the fog- 82, Cantone della Piazza della Ml-
lietta, according to its quality; but nerva. Via -Minerva e PaletobeUa.
good salad oil is not easily obtained. Good Florence silks, full three quar-
Roman honey is good, and seldom ters wide, may be purchased in thia
costs more than seven or eight baioc- shop for thirty-two pauls the canna ;
ehi the pound. No. 90, in the Piazza and slight silk of the same width for
di Trevi, is the best and cheapest ten pauls the canna. Ciampi, No.
Grocer's shop at Rome. Wax torches 471, on the Corso, sells silks, as like-
may be purchased in this shop at "^^^ise does Ciampi,No.l67, on the Corso.
forty-two baiocchi the pound; and The best Milliner and Dress-maker,
good wax candles for forty-three. Madame Hilaire, resides in the Piazza-
Good brandy (four pauls the bottle) is Mignanelli.
sold at No. Ill, Piazza di Monte- The most eminent Professor of Lan-
Citorio. Faiella, in the Piazza di guagesatRomeisSig.Giuntotardi: the
Spagna, sells good groceries. The best Music-Masters are SignoriSirletti,
brothers Cogorni, grocers, in the Pi- Terzini,Doria, Moroni, and Confidate.
azza-Rondonini, sell good rum at six Sig. Giuntotardi's price is one zecchi-
pauls the bottle; or, five and a half, no for three lessons. Eminent Muaic-
provided the empty bottles be return* Masters ask ten pauls a lesson.
ed^ they likewise sell Bordeaux, Cy* Dandng-Mastera chai^ from tt9 to
ItAtT.l ROME— PRICES OF VARIOUS ARTICLES, ic 409
seven pauls a lesson | and Drawing* Candotti:) here, the prioee of the
Masters about fire pauls an hour, prints are specified in the catalogue |
Sig. Luigi Fioroni, Via-Vittoria, Noi and from ten to fifteen per cent, is de-
25, is an excellent Drawing Master : ducted, if a large number be pur-
and Sig. Natale Carta paints mini** chased* Trebbi, No. 23, Via-Con-
ature Frescos beatifully. dotti, deals in Mosaics, and othef
Vescovali, at No. 20, in the Piaste Works of Arti* Dies, Via-Condottlf
di Spagna, has a large collection of No. 16, deals In, and sets, Camei*
Ancient Bronzes, Vases, Medals, 41-0., necklaces, ear-rings, and other pern
for sale. Sulphurs are sold at No. 31, sonal ornaments ; and Buonafede, No.
Yia-Capo-le-Case, for three sciidi per 9, Via-Frattina^ Sets neeklaces, Sui*^
hundred : they are likewise sold at particularly well.
No. 53, on the Corso ; and in the Rome (as has been already meA«
Piazza di Spagna, by Paoletti, who tioned) contains six Theatres t
is deemed particukrly skilful in the namely. The AHberH^ which is
art of making pastes and sulphurs, opened for Makk-ballfl during Can
Small and beautiful specimens of nival; Tfa Argeniituii where pperM
Roman Mosaics may be found in are performed between Christmas
the Piazza di Spagna, and its en. and Lent; The Valley where operas
▼irons. Specimens of Scajuolay and And plays are performed at the same
Paintings alP Encausto, may be found season ; The Apollo^ or TardinotU^
at No. 3, in the Forum Romanum, likewise an opera-house i The Pace i
near the arch of Severus ; and Ceoca- and The Palkujorda. Added to these^
rini, Vicolo del Divino Amore, has » very small Theatre, adjoining the
fine specimens of Italian marbles. Palaazo-Fiano, is frequently opened
One of the best shops for bronze for the exhibiti(in of Marionetteg,
Lamps, and silver Plate, is that of Sig. The price of a good box at the Teatro*
. Belli, No. 63, in Via-Valle. One of Aliberti, during Carnival, is from
the best Stationer's shops is in the fifteen to twenty pauls ; besides whieh^
Piazza-Colonna, and opposite to the eveiT person pays three pauls for ad-
Post-Office. Manuscript Music, both mission. At the other Theatres, the
ancient and modem, is sold by the pnce of boxes varies according te
Abbate Santini, at No. 49, Via* the merit of the performers; but
Vittori. Scudellari, Printer, No. 19, nothing is paid for admission^ ex-
Via-Condotti, sells Pinelli's Works, cept by those pertmui who go into
and other celebrated prints, miniature ♦h® parterre*
frescos, writing paper, &c* Bouchard, Travellers who intend to tnake ft
BookseUer, No. 69, Piazza di Spagna, long stay, and to live ceocAiomlcaUy
seUs English books, prints, miniature *» this City, should endeavour to
frescos, &c. Monaldini, Printseller, hire an unfurnished apartment, atld
in the Piazza di Spagna, sells English furnish it themselves ; furniture being
Books, English writing and drawing very cheap ; and the rent of unfur-
Paper, A^c. ; and Piale, at No. 428, on nished apartments very low.
the Corso, has a small circulating Li- A Procaccio goes every week from
brary, which contains a few English Rome to Naples, and eoaveys hig-
Books. The subscription to this gage-|-.
Library, is six pauls for one mouth The best Rotaail Padr&ni tU VeU
only ; and fifteen pauls per quarter, 'w*"^ is Balzani, Who may always be
Large assortments of Prints, and ^nnd, or heard of, at the Locanda
coloured Drawings, are to be found <iel Ofso; and is the brother and
on the Corso ; and likewise at the partner of Balzani, the Padrone di
Cnlcografla Camerale, (No. 43, Via- Vetlnre, at Florence J ; but a
- Trebbl forwawU Work* of Art to Great or by water, must be ta*fen.to the Cu«iMn-
Britain: but the Spedlaiohiere usually em- ^^ at Naples, U Is not advisable to »rad
ployed by the British Nation, at present, is ^^^> nor any thing contraband, by these
De Sanctis, Via del Babulno, No. 84. conveyances.
t Persons who wish to convey lusrsage by i Laundresses at Il<mie eommomy charge
water from Rome to Naples, should apply for washbig and ironing as follows i
to the Masters of the Teasels at Ripa-^noide: Sheets, pa pair • baiocchi 8
but as luggage going either by the ProQacdo^ riUow-«ases» M<»i from 1 to »»»*» 8
2x2
500
APPENDIX.
[Ch. V.
much pleasanter person to deal
with.
POST-OFFICE.
Monday maminp arrive lettert from
Bologna, Viterbo, and Rieti, Holland,
Germany, northern Europe, Tuscany,
Upper Italy, France, Spain, Portugal,
and Great Britain.
• Tuesday morning from Ancona,
Perugia, Civitavecchia, Tivoli, Subi-
aco, Benevento, the kingdom of Na-
ples, SicUy, Malta, and the Ionian
Islands. ^
Thursday from Bologna, Perugia,
Viterbo, Civitavecchia, and Rieti;
Tivoli, Benevento, and Foreign
Countries.
Friday from Ancona.
Saturday from Bologna, Perugia,
Civitavecchia, and Rieti, Tivoli, &c.,
and likewise from Foreign Coim-
tries.
Sunday at four o'clock^ post meri-
dian^ go letters to all the Ecclesiastical
Territories, Great Britain, and other
parts of Europe.
Tuesday^ at the same hour^ to all
the Ecclesiastical Territories, except
Ancona, and to other parts of Europe.
Thursday^ at the same hour, to all
the Ecclesiastical Territories, and
other parts of Europe.
Letters for Foreign Countries must
be franked before two o'clock p.m., on
every Foreign Post-day ; and on other
days before twenty-three o'clock,
(Italian time,) except Saturday; when
they are received at the Post-Office
till two hours after sunset.
ABRITAL AVD DEPART UBE OF
DILIGENCES.
Tuesday morning arrives the Dili-
Table-doth, accordfaig to its tise, from
baiocchi 3, to baiocchi 5
Napkins, per dozen 12
Towels, per dosen 12
Shirt, if plain, from 5 to 6, if frilled,
from 6 to 7
Shift 4
Drawers, from 4 to 6
Corset, from 2 to 5-
Pocket-handkerchiefs, per dozen 12*
Kitchen-aprons, per dozen 12 -
Neckcloth 1-
Pockets, per pair 2-
Sleeping waistcoat, if not trimmed • • • • 4 -
Neckerchief, if frilled 7'
Night-cap, if friUed 2
Plain white dresses, each, from 16 to* • 20'
White dresses, full trimmed 90'
gence from Ferrara, via Ancona,
Frosinone, Viterbo, Civitavecchia, and
Subiaoo.
Thursday morning front Frosinone,
Civitavecchia, and Tivoli.
Friday morning from Ferrara Via
Ancona.
Saturday morning {rom Frosinone,
Viterbo, Civitavecchia, and Subiaco.
Sunday, at one o" clock, p. it. the
Diligence sets out for Ferrara— a<
four o"* clock, P.M. for Frosinone —
and at night for Viterbo, Civitavec-
chia, and Subiaco.
Tuesday, at four o'clock, p.m. for
Frosinone, and at night for Civitavec-
chia, and Tivoli;
Thursday, at one o'* clock, p. m. for
Ferrara-^a/ four for Frosinone — and
at night for Viterb^, Civitavecchia,
and Subiaco.
The expense of franking a single
letter to Great«Britain is fifteen bai-
occhi ; and that of franking a single
letter, either to Florence or Naples,
two baiocchi and a half.
. The Post-office is usually open
from nine till twelve in the morning,
and from three till six or seven in the
evening.
Letters from Great Britain may
be expected on Mondays and Thurs-
days.
NEAPOLITAN TERRITORIES.
Travellers, on quitting Rome for
Naples, derive no advantage from
having their luggage plumbed ; , as,
at Terracina, the last Town in the
Papal territories, and also at the
frontier. Custom-house Officers have
a right to examine trunks, ^c. ; but
a fee of from five to ten pauls, accord-
ing to the quantity oi luggage.
Upper petticoats each, from 4 to 5
Under petticoats 2
Cotton stockings, per pair 9
Silk ditto, fh>m 4 to 5
Socks, per pair i^
CHILDRKNS' CLOTRB8.
Nightshirt 3 "
Frilled shirt, Arom 4to 5
Frock ^ 5
Trowsers 4
Boy's vest and pantaloons 8
For washing sheets. Laundresses at Rome
often charge two haiocchi a breadth.
Rosa Andreliini, Via-Schiavonia, Piagetta
S. Rooca, Nu. 32, is a good Laundresa; aa
likewise is Mariantonia Enrietti, Via deal!
Ayignonesi, No. 29, 2do. Plana
iTAiY.] NAPL£S^MONEV-^HOT£LSLJLODGmG.HOUS£S. 501
Uflually prevents the exercise of this
right. At Fondi, the first Town in hotels aitd other LODOiiro-
the Neapolitan dominions, six carlini houses at Naples.
per carriage, given at the Custom-
house, will generally secure luggage From two hundred to three hun-
from examination. dred ducats a month have, during
the last few years, been demanded in
MONEY OF NAPLES. Winter and spring, for the best ready.
furnished apartments in this City:
Gold. Piece worth thirty ducatij now, however, handsome lodgings,
or ducats — ditto, worth fifteen ducats sufficiently capacious to accommodate
— ditto, worth four ducats — ditto, a large Family, may be obtained for
worth three ducats— ditto, worth two an hundred, or, at the utmost, an
ducats. hundred and fifty ducats a month, in
Silver, Sctido^wonhgrana,OT gnins those parts of Naples ususJly fre-
132 — Pezzo-duro, worth grains from quented by Foreigners, namely, the
123, to 124 — Piastre, worth grains Chiaja, the Chiatamone, and the
120— Piece, worth grains 66— ditto, Strada di S. Luda : in other situa*
worth grains 60 — ditto, worth grains tions lodgings are much cheaper.
50— ditto, worth grains 40— ditto. The best Hotels have been already
worth grains 30 — ditto, worth grains named in the preceding part of this
26 — ditto, worth grains 24 — ditto. Work: it may not, however, be
worth grains 20 — ditto, worth grains superfluous to add, that the situation
13 — ditto, worth grains 12 — ditto, of /A^ Gran- J9reto^a is bleak during
worth grains 10 — ditto, worth grains winter and spring ; and that the back
5. rooms in the Croceley and other hotels
Copper. Piece worth 5 grains near the tufo-rock, are damp and
— ditto, worth 3 grains— ditto, worth unwholesome. The price of apart-
2^ grains— ditto, worth 2 grains — ments at the principal hotels is, gene-
ditto, worth 1 grain — ditto, worth rally speaking, higher than in any
half a grain. other part of Italy. Dinner usually
One ducato is worth ten carlini^ costs, during winter and spring, twelve
and one carlino is worth ten ^rana. carlini per, head for masters; break-
Accounts are kept in ducats and fast, from five to six carlini ; and ser-
grains. The exchange upon London vants' board, per day, at least six car-
is fixed every Monday and Thursday lini a head : but, during summer, din-
afternoon ; and Neapolitan Bankers ners are usually served at ten carlini a
give so many grains, accoi'ding to head for masters ; and breakfasts at
the exchange, for every pound ster- four carlini a head. During winter
ling. and spring the best apartments in
The value of French gold varies good Hotels cost from an hundred
from time to time ; but an old Louis- and twenty to an hundred and fifty
d*or is usually worth from five hundred ducats per month ; and during sum-
and forty to five hundred and sixty mer the same apartments cost from
grains ; and a Napoleon, from four sixty to eighty ducats per month,
hundred and sixty to four hundred By the day it is difficult to procure a
and eighty-five grains. small apartment under three ducats.
Messrs. Falconnet and Co., the Jobmen, who supply strangers with
most eminent Bankers at Naples, carriages, usually charge three ducata
are very obliging to Travellers*. per day ; and not much less by the
The common Neapolitan measure, month ; two piastres, per half-day, if
called a canna^ is equal to about it be a Festa ; and eighteen carlini, if
two yards and a quarter English -f- ; it be not: but a good carriage and
the Neapolitan pound to about eleven horses may frequently be purchased
English ounces; and the rotolo to here for less than . one hundred
about thirty-one English ounces. pounds sterling : and the expense of
- This Bank is open from nine in the mom- t One canna contains eight Neapolitan pal-
ing till one ; and from five till seven in the mi ; and one palmo is about lOj^ English
an«mo<Hi, ' inches.
keeping them amounts to about fifty mimmor, on aocount of iut beautiful
duoats a month, induiUng twelve situation and excellent dinner-room,
ducats for tho cflacbman^t wages. The best Traiteur for supplying iami<*
Provender for a coach-horse costs liea with dinners, at their own houses,
about iuur aarlini pier day*-^ stable is Giuseppe Gajoli, No, 140, Strada
find ooach-house four ducats a month, di Chiaja. One cup of oofiee at a
nod ^>!Op»»g each horse, ona ducat a coffees-house usually costs three grains;
n^onth. Provender for a saddle- one cup of chocolate from six to eight
horse oosts about ' threo carlini pw grains ; and breakfast from two to
^y. Ha<d(ney carriages of all de-* three carlini, according to its quality.
IcriptioBa are to be met with in The price of provisions is vfir^uartaft/^/
«very quarter of Naples, at th9 A>1^ 9nA always higher during Carnival
lowing prices : Caqriage with four than at any other period. Beef, on
ida^es, a amvae^ ft»ur aarlini ; and if an average, costs from twenty ta
taken by the hour, first hour, five twenty-two grains the rotolo—Juutton,
eaidini ; and every subsequent' hour from sixteen to eighteen grains — .«
three oarlini. Carriage with two Teal, from thirty-five to sixty grains-^
places, « oouney twenty.six grains ; pork, from twelve to sixteen grains..^
and if taken per hour, first hour fish, of the best kind, from six to
three carlini; and every subsequent twelve carlini— .common fish, from
hour, twenty grains. The drivers of thirty to forty grains— rabbits, per
these carriages cannot demand any brace, and remarkably good, about
thing more than the faro, though six carlini — turkeys, remarkably good,
t|iey expect a trifling gratuity. The about ten grains per pound — a large
wages of a Valet de pidoe is from fowl, from thirty to forty grains— a
five to six carlini a day, he finding small fowl, from fifteen to twenty
himself in every thing : and a good grains — ^hams, about three carlini the
Ckiok, who finds his own Assistant, rotolo, and bacon about twenty-six
usually asks from twelve to sixteen grains — tame ducks, each, about
ducats a month. Neapolitim Ser- thirty-five grains, if large — hares,
vants expect neither board nor lodg- from eight to ten carlini each — ^wild.
ing. j^sons who keep their own ducks, each, about forty grains— wid-
cook should order dinner a^ so much geons, the brace, about five carlini-*
per head, fire-wood and charcoal in- partridges, the brace, about twelve
elusive.: and persons who mean to re- carlini^-woodcocks, the brace, from
side long at Naples, and wish to live eight to twelve carlini — quails, each,
csconomically, should endeavour to from three to six grains — Parmesan
procure an unfurnished apartment ; cheese, from eight to nine carlini the
and either purchase or hire fHimiture sotolo-^English cheese, from ten to
themselves. Good apartments un- twelve carlini the rotolo — and bread
ftimished may be obtained for four, of the best quaHty, from six to ei^t
Of at the utmost, five hundred ducats grains the rotolo. Fusaro oysters are
per auQum. Families who have their good ; though, perhaps, not so well
dinner from a Truifetir^ are seldom fattened as in the days of Lucallus :
well-served under five or six carlini the^ usually cost from two to three
a head. Servants inefaisive ; but a grams each. Oil varies in price, ao-
well-oooked dish, sufficient fi^r two cording to the produce of the olive
people, may be procured, at a Cook's gardens ; but the best usually coats
•hop, for five carfini. Persons who from four to five carlini the rotalau
dine at a Resiauran^ are presented Milk is scarce and dear. The only
when they enter, with the earie ik good butter cornea from Sorrento;
manger ; and the expense of dining and is sold by the lump ; which costs,
at these taverns, bread and table-wine at Sorrento, about twelve grains, and
inclusive, is from three to ^ht car- weighs five ounces and a half. The
Hni a head. The Resiawrant at the best veal, firesh pork, pigs' faces,
Albergo Reale, Largo del Palasrao, Is bacon, and hams, likewise come fiom
much frequented during winter, and Sorrento. Levant coffee, upon an
the early part of spring : and that of average, is from nine to ten carlini
^e PalasEzo-Clrella, S*. JUida, dmng the rotolo — black tea about Ht9«A
IfALYf} NAPLES— PRICES OF VARIOUS ARTICLES, 4fc. »03
fftrlini th« pouii^; ftnd green te» quality. Sig.OnUndorgeslikewiMhas
from eighteeii to twenty earlini the a Shop iu the Palazso-Pwrt^nne,
pound. — Oood common lump (ugar. Largo Cappella Vecchia.
broken into small pieces, may usually Messrs. Cotterell and Co., Bankere
be obtained for iifty, or at most, fifty- and Wine Merchants^ No. 10, Laiigo
five grains the rotolo ; and loaf sugar della Vittoria, sell excellent white and
Ooits from six and a half to eight carUni red Falernian, made in their own
the rotolo. Fruit is cheap and excellent, yineyards* ^he former wine resem*
(It appears that in Magna Grscia the hies Champagne, the latter Hermitage,
ancients iced their cherries, figs, Both wines keep good for several
water-melons and many other fruits ; years ; and are the better for being
and the Moderns would do wisely by transported to Oreat Britain. Messrs,
adopting the same plan.) Clean ice, Cotterell and Co. have a comfortable
er rather frozen snow, for mixing Reading-room (furnished with Eng..
with water, or wine, is four grains the lish and other Newspapers) annex^
rotolo ; and less clean froaen snow, to their Bank.
for icing liquors, three grains the Strong's Warehouse, No. 1, Strada-
rotolo ; iced water, two grains per Molo, near the Fontana-Medina, *con«
quart ; ices, in glasses, are eight tains English merchandise ; as does a
grains each; and. ices in cakes, twdve shop kept by Terry, in the Strada-
grains each« The wines of Fosilipo, Toledo. Paturle and Co., at No. 329,
Capri, and Ischia, are palatable and Strada-Toledo, have a large assort*
wholesome ; and cost from twenty- ment of French silks, velvets, gauzes,
five to thirty-five earlini the barrel, lace, shawls, ribands, and almost every
which holds fifty-six caraffe, or pints, article manufactured at Lyons. Toro,
The wines of Prodda and Calabria at No. 12, Strada S. Francesco di
are good and wholesome ; and cost Paolo, is an excellent Ladies* Shoe-
about four ducats per barrel. The maker : Cardon and Co., at No. 209,
Sicilian wines likewise are good*. Strada di Chiaja, are good Milliners
Fire-wood usually costs from twenty and Dress-makers ; as likewise is
to twenty-two ducats the large can- Mad*"«* Houlemont, at No. 29, Vico
na *!• ; and charcoal fifteen earlini the lungo San Matteo, dirempetto La
quintal. Wax-lights of the best qua- Trinity de' Spagnuoli ; and Mrs. Bell,
lity, called Venice-candles, are about an English Dress-maker, has consi-
six earlini the pound ; and tallow derable custom. Naples is celebrated
candles twelve grains the pound in for its silks, gauzes, ribands, coral,
the shops, and eleven grains at the soap ; and silk stockings, made at
Fahbrica* Sig. Graindorges has, in Sorrento, which are remarkably strong,
the Largo del Castello, a British and may be purchased of the Maker,
Warehouse, which contains porter, at No. 35, Monte-Olivetto. Silks for
ale ; French, Spanish, and Portugal Ladies' dresses are usually sold accord-
wines ; LachrymsB, and other wines ing to their weight : common silks of
of the kingdom of Naples ; Marsala, various qualities, and a strong, Warm,
brandy, rum, Hollands, liqueurs, and cheap article, said to wash, and
gunpowder, hyson, and black tea ; called Cottone e setta, are sold in the
coffee, sugar, and other grocery; Strada Sedile di Porto. Strong and
Durham mustard ; English writing- good black common silks, four palmi
paper, pens, and pencils ; fish-sauces ; wide, and strong and pretty coloured
court -plaster ; English cheese ; curry- silks of the same width, which wash
powder ; anti-attntion grease ; Eng- excellently, cost about twenty-two
lish razors, saddles, and bridles ; earlini the canna. More costly silks
James's powder, Epsom and Chel- are sold at the Fabbrica Keale, in the
tenham salts, soda-powders, spirit of Strada-Toledo. Naples is likewise fa-
hartshom, and spirit of lavender, mous for its Tortoise-shell Manufac-
eau de Cologne, &c,, all of the best ture, and for musical instrument
- Some of the best Calabrian and Sicilian English quarts,
urines are those of Piedimonte. MongibeUo, S. t The large canna contains sixty-four pal'
Eufemia, Marsala, and Siragusa. Good Ma* mi, it being a rule to have the canna square
laga may frequently b6 m^C with'; and is sold every wsy«
by tliB n^kbiOf which contains about fixtesn
604 APPBiVWX. [Cai.V.
ttrings in general, and harp strings Kemot, Chemist and Druggist from
in particular. Fontanelli, Strada di London, Strada S. Carlo, No. 14,
Chiaja, No. 254, deals in coral, camei- sells excellent English Medicines ;
necklaces, ear-rings, bracelets, &c., and prepares Physicians* Prescriptions.
made with lava; and other personal Wilkie has an English Pharmacy
ornaments. Fontanelli, Junior, Strada on the Chiaja.
di Chiaja, No. 46, xil'^' piano, deals Sig. Raffaele Puglisi is a good
in coral, and necklaces, &&, made Dentist.
with lava. Sig. Chirgiulo, whose address may
Sign^ior Gaetano de Vito paints be obtained at the Studii, is a cele-
beautifully,for sale, in miniature fresco, brated Restorer of Etruscan and Gre-
views of Naples, and its environs ; cian Vases.
together with the Eraptions of Vesu- Sig. Ghietano, Via delle Campane,
vius : his Wife is an excellent Painter al Tol^o, is a good Dancing Master ;
of Neapolitan costumi : and their and Sig. Lanza, a celebrated Music
works, which are not expensive, may and Singing Master.
be purchased at No. 37, Strada-For- Signori Bevilacqua, and J. B. de
male, sopra i Gradini S. Liborio, Ferrari, are good Language Masters ;
ii]mo. piano. and the address of the latter may be
Glass, No. 54, Piazza S. Ferdinando, obtained from Mr. Glass. '
is a good Stationer "^ as likewise is There is a circulating Library and
Sig. Angelo Trani, in the Largo del Reading Room, in Strada S. Giaoomo,
Palazzo. No. 19, near the Strada-Toledo; and
Lewis, No. 6, Piazza di S*. Maria Sig. Borel has a large and valuable
Cappella, is an English Coach.maker, collection of books for sale, near
who understands his business, and the Church of Trinity Mag^ore.
gets his iron work from England.
PRICES AT THE THEATRES.
Teatro di S. Carlo - Pakhi, fourth row... ducats 4, carlini 5
fifth row 3, „ 6
sixth row 1, „ 8
Plaiea, numbered seats each - 99 ^
The first, second, .and third rows of boxes, are not let by the night, but by
the season.
Teairo del Fondo - - Palchi, first row ducats 4, carlini -
second row 5, 99 ' -
third row... 3, • „ 6
fourth row 2, „ 4
fifth row 1, „ 2
PUUea^ numbered seats, each .. 99 4
Teatro Nuovom - - - Palchi^ first row 3, „ -
second row 4, „ -
third row 3, „ -
fourth row 2,
9*
' . • fifth row 1, „ 2
Plaiea, niunbered seats, each - 99 3
Teatro Fiorentini - - Palchi^ first and second row 3, 99 -
third row. 2, „ ~
fourth 1, „ 6
fifth 1, „ .
Plateay numbered seats, each - 9^ 3
Teatro S. Ferdinando - - - - S. Carlino Company.
Palchiy first and second row 1, 99 2
third row« ,.... -. „ 8
fourth «. „ 7
Plaieoy „.,,„ ^,„. „ ^^ grana 15
Italy.] PIANO DI SORRENTO-^LODGING-HOUSES, ^c. 606
Teatro Mia F§mee -.-... S. Carlo Company.
Palchiy first and second row 1, 99 2
third 1, „ -
Platea, numbered seats, each - 9) 2
The Fondo is better calculated for seeing and hearing than S. Carlo.*
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OF LET-
TER-COURIERS AND PROCACCI.
Monday arrive letters from Cala-
bria, Puglia, and the.Abruzzi.
Tuesday arrives the Courier from
Rome, with letters from Florence,
Milan, Great Britain, and all parts of
northern Europe.
Wednesday arrive letters from Sa-
lerno, and Calabria.
Thursday arrive all the Foreign
Couriers, with letters from% Great
Britain, &c.
Saturday arrive -all the Foreign
Couriers, with letters from Great
Britain, &c.
Tuesday go letters for Rome, Flo-
rence, Milan, Great Britain, and all
parts of northern Europe.
Wednesday go letters for Puglia,
the Abruzzi, Calabria, Sicily, Malta,
and the Ionian Islands,
Thursday go letters for Rome, Flo-
rence, Milan, Great Britain, and all
parts of northern Europe.
Saturday go letters for Rome, Flo-
rence, Milan, Great Britain, and all
parts of northern Europe, Puglia, Ca-
labria, the Abruzzi, Sicily, Malta, and
the Ionian Islands : and on the first
Saturday in every month go letters for
Ragusa and Constantinople.
Letters for Great Britain must be
franked ; and the price is fifteen
grains for every single letter. Letters
for France must be franked ; ' and the
price is ten grains for every single
letter.
The office for franking letters is
open every day, Sunday excepted,
from nine till twelve in the morning,
and from four till five in the after-
noon.
- Laundreflses at Naples commonly charge
for washing and ironing as follows : —
Sheets, per pair .... Grains 12
Pillow-case ...-'.. 2
.Table-cloth ------ 6
Napkin and Towel, each ... l
Kitchen-apron ..... i
Shirt 7
Day-shift, if plain, 5 i Night-shift - 6
Drawers ...... 4
Sleeping waistcoat . . . ' . 4
Kignt-cap .----- 4
Fetticoat - • ^ ^r • « • 6
PIAKO DI SORRENTO.
Price of Lodging-htmse^.
The price of Lodging-houses de-
pends on the term for which they
are taken ; and also on the season of
the year. During summer, from
eighty to an hundred ducats per
month are usually demanded for the
PaIazzo-Sera.Capriole at Meta-^about
sixty ducats a month for' the large
apartment in the ViUa-Sera-Capriole
near Carota — about sixty ducats per
month for the large apartment in the
yilla.Spihelli — sixty ducats per month
for part of the Villa-Starace — about
fifty ducats a month for the small
apartment in the second story of the
Cocumella — about fifty-five ducats a
month for a large apartment in the
Palazzo- Guarracino, at S. Pietro.a-
Majella — thirty ducats a month for
the Villa Angelis, in a Garden close to
the sea — ^ninety ducats a month for
the first floor of the Villa-Correale,
and less for the second floor — ^xty
ducats a month, and upward, for the
Villa-Losa, in the Town of Sorrento—
and an hundred and twenty ducats a
month for a large apartment in the
Palazzo-Laurito, likewise at Sorrento.
Small apartments calculated to accom-
modate a Lady and her servant, or a
single Man, may always be procured
for fifteen ducats a month, and fre-
quently for less. Plate and linen are
found in most of the aforesaid apart-
ments.
AVERAGE PRICE OF PROVISIONS, ^C.
Excellent beef, (prime pieces) fK)m
eighteen to twenty gp*ains the rotfAo--^
excellent veal, from twenty-six ' "to
thirty grains — delicious pork, from
Corset -.-.-- Grains S
Neckcloth .-----
Pocket-handkerchiefs, per doien
Stockings per pair (if sUk) -
A plain white dress ...
A frill
A muslin cap, if bordered with lace
Stockinn per pair (if cotton)
IS
4
25
5
3
In the Strada-Vittoria, No. 38, there 'is a
good Laundress, by name Lastrucci; but her
charges axe high. She speaks English and
French.
A06 APPENDIX. lOh.V.
twelire to sixteen grahui—eKoelleiit brandy nor nun, nor the wines of
hams, from twenty to twenty<ibur Spain, Portugal, and France, can be
grains— piga* cheeks and bacon, both purchased in the shops at Sorrento :
excellent, from fourteen to fifteen but boftts go daily thence, and also
grains «;• vegetable^ from one to two from the Piflno, to Naples $ and erery
grains — excellent butter, per pat. Master of a boat may be trusted to
twelve grains — thread of the best qua- execute commissions, and even to
lity, (which is brought daily from Cas- bring letters, and money, for Fo-
tel-a-mare,) about seven grains-^bread reigners. The Sorrento-boats, and
inade in the Piano dl Sorrento, and those belonging to the Maiana of the
generally speaking good, cheaper be*- Piano, set out soon after daybreak,
cause carriage-free — macccaroni, from and return between three and four
mne to ten grains — fish from ten to o'clock every afternoon, weather per-
forty grains, according to its quality^- mitting. The Meta-boats go more
fruit m)m two to four grains — clean irregularly; there being at times a
ice, or, properly speaking, frozen snow, dangerous surf upon that beach. The
to mix with wine, two grains, and price paid by the Sorrentines for going
9now for icing liquors, one grain and to Naples in a public boat, is six grains
»half — excellent salad-oil, about thirty per head; and the best method of
grains the measure-.^excellent milk, conveying a Family from Naples to
from three to four grains the measure, Sorrento, is to hire one of these pub*
which is nearly an English quart^-«- lie boats, and embark about mid-day ;
pommoa wine of Sorrento, per caraffa, 4t which time the wind is usually fa-
three grains; per barrel from eigh- yourable. A Mariner, by name Em-
teen to twenty-two carlini —^ white fanio, who frequently commands tne
Surrentinum, (called Conti] three boats belonging to the Marina of the
ducata the barrel.— red Capri, if it Piano, Is remarkably well-behaved,
CH)me direct from th^t isl^d, about &nd an excellent Pilot: and a boat^
twenty-four carlini, carriage inclusive commanded by him, may be hired for
..^common wine of Calabria, the same three or four ducats, according to its
price — charcoal, from twelve to fifteen size : he may generally be met with
carlini the quintal— and fire.wQod, at the Molo at Naples, from ten in
seventy carlini the small canna. the morning till twelve, every day,
Sorrento and its Piano are famous Sundays excepted,
for delicious honey, clotted cream, and Pasquale Tramontane, in the Borgo,
a dish called, in Pevonshire, junket: near the Piano-Gate of Sorrento, is a
^d (what seems e^^traordinary) the good Traitor, and moderate in his
Sorrentines give it a similar name, prices. He usually supplies a family
4^uails, during the month of Septem- ponsisting of five persons with a plen-
l>er, are particularly good, plentiful, tiful dinner for two ducats, or, at
and cheap, in this country ; wood- most, two piastres ; four carlini a head
oocka, during winter, are sometimes being his common charge. The Mas*
met with ; but poultry is always ter of the Cocumella Hotel likewise
scarce, and seldom good : fine fish is sends out dinners,
.likewise scarce in the Piano di Soiu Onofrio Sersale, at Po^asopiano,
rente ; though attainable almost every makes good cakes, and tolerably goo4
evening at S. Agata ; whither it is ices.
brought from the Gulph of Salerno . Fortunate Valestra, in the Borgo,
during the da^, in order to be sent to is a veiy good Shoemaker : and Doc*
Naples at midnight. A boat laden tor Cangiani, a well-informed and
witn fish, often goes from the Town skilful Neapolitan Physician, resides
of Sorrento to Naples at daybreak ; in the Town of Sorrento,
and ' by sending to the Marina at Small open carriages, two or thi«e
$orrento before the boat goes, fish in number, are let by the day at Sor-
may sometimes be procured. rente, for ten, or, at most, twelve
Families who remove from Naples carlini; and by the half -day fior six
to the Sorrentine shore, would do well carlim*. For a mule, per day, the
to take with them tea, sugar, wax usual demand is eight oarlini ; and
-^HQdles, soap, and cheese. Neither |>er h»lf-day,iouT caiBni« Ffurftdim-
Italy.]
COMPARATIVE VJBW OF EXPENSES.
607
key, per day, the usual demand is six
carlini ; and per half-day, three carliui.
For a mule and Guide to S. Angelo
and back, the price is ten carlini ; and
to Castel-a-mare and back, the same.
For a chaise-a-porteur to the Gonti
and back, the common price is two
piastres ; to Airola and back, the
same ; and to S<^. Maria Gastello and
back) four piastres. The price of six
Portantini to carry a Lady to S. An-
gelo and back, is six piastres { and to
Castel*a.mare and back, the same.
The price of a small four-oared boat,
per day, is two ducats ; of a ten-oared
boat, from four ducats to four pias-
tres ) and of a boat sufficiently oapa-
caous to convey a family imd their
luggage to Naples, six piastres, the
expense of conveying the luggage to
and from the boat inclusive *.
A large Family, if oeconomical, might
live comfortably at Sorrento for four
hundred pounds per annum, And ^ven
JPrle«4 charged hy Laundresses,
Sheets, per pair , .,., grana 6
Pillow-cases, each 1
Table-doth of a moderate size ...... 4
Napkins, per dozen » 12
Towels, per dozen..... <.... 12
Eitchen-aprons, per dozen 12
Shirts each) if ptaiiv, grana 4, if
frilled 6
Shifts each, if plain, grana 3, if
trimmed ,.«.(...« «... 5
Prawers, per pair , 4
Sleeping waistcoat grana 4
Nightcap, if plain 2
Petticoat, if plain 4
Neckcloth 1
Pocket-handkerchiefs, per dozen ... 12
A plain white dress . 15
Afrill 4
Stockings of cotton, per pair 2
Silk stockings, per pair 4
Corset ,....,.... 4
MaddalenaGargiulo, Palazzo-Ouar-
racino, is a good Laundress, who gjets
up linen in the English ip^umer*
COHPARATIVE VIEW OF EXPEKSES
in VARIOUS PARTS OF TUS CON-
TINENT.
A French franc, usuallv worth
about ten-pence, will go as far in France
as does a shilling in England : a Tus-
can paul, usually worth about five-
pence hiUfpenny, will go as far in
Tuscany as does a frane in France :
a Roman paul, usually worth about
five-pence, will go as far in the Eccle-
siastical territories as does a Tuscan
paul in Tuscany : and a carlino of the
kingdom of Naples, usually worth
about four-pence, will go as far in the
Neapolitan dominions as does a Roman
paul at Rome,
Letters put into the Sorrento Post-
Office, are conveyed perfectly safe to
Naples : and letters addressed either to
Sorrento, or any of the Villas in the
plain, ^e delivered with punctuality.
- Remarkably strong Silk and Cotton Stock- tat curtains, may be purchased very dieap at
iags may be purchaseafor a moderate price, at Sorrento, under the name of Sorrento Gauze,
the Manufactory of Don Filippo Castellano, Black Ribands, made in the Piano di Sorento,
ia the P4»no di SoirentQ i and e^i^Uent gauze* are particularly stropg and cheap.
508
Chapter VL
ITA^LY.
Route from Geneva to OMmhkrf—^taoi Chamb^ over the Mont-Cenis to Turin— New Road
made by Napoleon — Passage of Mont-Gen^vre— Route from Nice through Genoa to Pisa by
the new road— ftom Genoa through Lucca to Pisa by the new road— from Genoa to Turin
by the Val di Scrivia— from Leghorn through Pisa to Florence— from Pisa through Lucca
and Pistoja to Florence— Expense of travelling en voiturier from Lucca through Pistoja to
Florence— Price charged by Voiturinsfor conveying Luggage from Florence to Rome— Route
from Florence through Siena to Rome— from Florence through Perugia to Rome — ^from
Genoa through Bologna, Rimini, Sinagalia, Ancona, Loretto, and Temi, to Rome— from
Milan through Bergamo, Verona, Vicenza, and Padua, to Venice, Bologna, and Florence—
from Milan to Bologna, through Piacenza, Parma, R^io, and Modena— from Milan to
Turin— ^irom Aoste to Turin— worn Turin over the Maritime Alps to Nice — ^from Rome to
Naples — Mod» of dividing this jmim^ — Buonamano luually given to a Voiturier— Route
en voiturier from Rome to Florence through Perugia — Caution against travelling througli
Perugia to Rome during the great heats — Route en voiturier from Florence through Siena
to Rome — ^from Rome to Naples — from Calais to Rome during winter — ^from Calais by
Pontarlier to Neuchatel— from Florence through Bologna, Venice, Vienna, Prague, and
Dresden to Hamburgh— from Florence, Uirough Mantua, and by the Tyrol, to Augsburg and
Wurtaburg— and, during summer, frt>m Rome, through Florence and Milan by the Sim<
plon to Geneva, and over the Jura- Alps to Poligny, Dijon, Melun, Paris, and Boulogne —
during summer, from Florence to Venice, Milan, Turin, and over Mont-Cenis to Pont-de*
Bcauvoisin— and during the spring of 1827* from Naples by the Mont-Cenis to Calais.
ROUTE FROM GENEVA TO CHAU-
BERY.
2 Eluiset
2 Franfftf. Two good inns.
1} Mionas
\\ RumUly — A small Village, placed
at the junction of the Seran and
the Nephe. Inn, Les troia Rm,
IJ A/betu
l{ Aix-ieS'Bains — formerly called
Aqua-Gratiana* The mineral
waters of Aix are in high re-
pute ; and its Baths (supposed
to have been constructed by the
ancient Romans) were repaired
by the Emperor Oratian. Best
inn, La CiU de Geneve,
2 Chambery.
Hi posts.
ROUTE FROM CHAMBERT, OVER
THE MONT-CENIS, TO TURIN.
2 Montmeillant — ^The country from
Chambery hither is well culti-
vated ^ and the vineyards near
Montmeliah produce good wine.
The latter Town is finely situ-
ated on the Is^re. Inn, bad.
\\ Maitaveme,
\\ Aiguebeile^ anciently Aquabeliee^-^
The country between Maita-
veme and this village is barren :
but the utuft(ion of Aigaebelle
is pleasant; the inhabitants,
compared with their neighbour-
ing compatriots, are wealthy;
the Post-House, though desti-
tute of a Remise, is in other
respects a tolerably good inn;
and L* Hotel de l* Union, (an.
equally good inn,) possesses aa
excellent Remise.
2% La grande Maiton — The new
Road, constructed by order of
the Emperor Napoleon, com-
mences just beyond Aiguebelle,
and passes through the Mau-
rienne, a narrow valley, bor.
dered by some of the most gi,
gantic of the Maritime Alps;
parts of which display barren
scenery, while other parts are
embellished with pasturages,
and clothed with woods.
2 S. Jean de Maurienne-.—lietweeii
Aig^ebelle and S. Jean de Man.
rienne are several bridges, thrown
over a brawling torrent, called
the Arc, and one of the tributary
streams to the Isere. The vil-
lages of Epierre, La Chapelle,
and la Chambre, all situated in
the Maurienne, once exhibited a
striking picture of poverty and
disease. — Cretins were seen at
almost every door; and the
inhabitants were universally af.
Italy.] ROUTE OVER CENIS TO TURIN. ■ 5^9
flicted with Goitres. But Na- is an excellent inn, built by order of
poleon, to secure his new road, Napoleon, for the accommodation of
drained the marshes, and con- his officers, L* Hotel de la Poaie iff a
fined within its proper channel good inn, though inferior to the other,
the destructive torrent which . After heavy falls of snow, carriages
continuity flooded the valley : are sometimes from six to seven hours
and by these means he rendered in ascending Cenis on the Savoy side ;
the air salubrious; prevented and from four to live hours in de-
the increase of Cretins ; ester- soending on the side of Piedmont ;
minated Goitres; and changed and when the snow is particularly
a glen of misery into a line of deep, carriages are dismounted, and
prosperous towns and hamlets, put into traineaux : this, however,
Inns at S. Jean de Maurienne, rarely happens ; and the only dan-
La Poste, and UHotel (TEu- gerous part of the passage of Cenis
rope^ former best. during winter, namely, the gallery
2 Saint Michel — Beyond S. Jean de situated at the base of an avalanche,
Maurienne the road crosses the which falls annually, is now avoided
Arvan on a stone bridge ; and by means of a road lately made prac-
then traverses the Arc on ano- ticable for carriages, from the Italian
ther bridge ; facing which, is a Barrier to the wild and almost terri-
rivulet of water that petrifies fie Plain of S. Nicc(^o; and through
every substance it touches; and' the centre of that plain to Molaretto,
has, consequently, made for This new part of the passage, though
itself a natural aqueduct. Mid- an excellent road, and perfectly ex-
way between S. Jean de Mau- erapt from danger respecting the ava-
rienne and S. Michel is the lanche, should on no account be passed
hamlet of S. Julien, celebrated without a guide, either in the dark, or
for its wines. The Hotel de after sudden and heavy snow-storms ;
Londres, at S. Michel, is a good as it lies close to -the brink of preei-
inn. pices till it enters the Plain.
2} Modane —Two inns ; L^ Hotel du Few scenes can be more astonishing
Lion d*or^ and U Hotel des Voy- or more truly sublime, than that pre-
ageurs ;' both tolerably good. sented to Travellers who cross Cenis.
2 La Femey Pompey is supposed to have been the
2 LanS'lC'Sourg-^ "Not far distant first person who attempted making a
from Le Verney is the double passage over this Alp ; which, fi*om
Cascade of S. Benoit, one of the his days till the year 1811, could only
finest waterfalls in the Alps ; be crossed on foot, on a mule, or in a
but, though near the road, not chaise-a'porteur. Napoleon, however,
close to it : and between Le Ver- determined to make a carriage-road ;
ney and Lans-le-Bourg is Ter- and to accomplish his purpose, em-
mignon, situated on the Arc, not ployed the Cav. Giovanni Fabbroni ;
far from its confluence with the who, in five months, by the aid of
Leisse. Between Modane and three thousand workmen, formed a
Lans-le-Bourg is a strong Fort- new route, practicable for carriages at
ress, which commands the pas- all seasons of the year ; and not only
. sage of Mont-Cenis. practicable but perfectly safe, (the cir-
Lans-le-Bourg, situated at the base cumstance of the avalanche excepted,)
of Cenis, contains a considerable num- although it traverses a part of Cenis
ber of inhabitants, most of whom are which is five thousand eight hundred
employed in facilitating the passage and ninety-eight English feet above
of the mountain ; by removing the the level of the Mediterranean sea.
new-fallen snow, during eight or nine This excellent and wonderful road
months in the year, from those places unites the Valley of the Arc in Savoy
where, if suffered to accumulate, it with that of the Doria-Riparia, in
might block up the road ; and by Piedmont ; passing, at Lans-le-Bourg,
affording Travellers every assistance over a fine bridge thrown across the
they require. Arc ; thence winding up the side
U Hotel Jioifal, at Lans-le-Bourg, of Cenis, by means of six galle-
610 APPENDIX. ' tOk. VL
ries, mt tliroagli pastaragfes and fu fine Cascaded ; and, o^oiite to the
resU, to La Ratnasse ; whence, daring hamlet of La Ferridre, is another gal-
winter, venturoui Travellert, when lery^ above two thousand ibet in
coming from Piedmont, used, )>reyioua length, and cut through a remarkably
to the formation of the carriage-road, hard and precipitous rock of solid gra-
to descend to Lans*le-fiourg (a dis* nite. Here, a wall, nine feet in height
tance of two- leagues) in seven mi^ and six hundred in extent, defends the
nutes t each Traveller being seated in gallery from earth and loose stones,
a traineau, guided by one man only | which might otherwise fall into and
who, if careless, or unskilful, risked destroy it. The scenery in this part
the loss of his own life, together witlt of the route is enchanting. Near Mo-
that of the person he conducted : at laretto rise the fruitful hills of Ghau-
present, however, these vehicles may mont, watered by the Doria-Riparia,
be used on the carriage-road with which descends from Mont-Genevre ;
perfect safety ; though not with their and on the left is the beautiful Valley
former celerity i the descent being so of Cenis, extending to Susa. From
gradnal, that it is needless for a light the Post-House at Molaretto to the ex.
carriage to have a drag-chain. The tremity of the pass of Gaiglione, the
most elevated part of the route Is a road, generally speaking, is cut through
plain, two leagues in length, encircled rocks at the brink of a precipice
by the loftiest peaks of Cenis, and flanked by a strong dwarf wall ; and
containing the Post-House (a small then traverses a hill (covered with
inn), the Barracks, and La grande Hch vegetation, and exhibiting a dis-
Croix, another small inn. The Plain tant view of the Valley of the Doria,
of Cenis is embellished with a beauti- and the mountains near Turin) till it
ful and, according to report, an unfa* enters the Faubourg of 6usa.
thomaUe Lake ; whose limpid waters As travellers who pass Cenis are
reflect the surrounding heights, and liable to encounter fogs, snow-storms,
nourish the most delicious trout in and dangerous gusts of wind, Napo-
Europe. The cheese of the Mountain leon estabUahed, in the most elevated
is likewise excellent; and the butter and exposed parts of the route, twenty,
and wine are good. six small Inns, or Refuges^ provided
Fronting the Lake stands a hamlet with bells^ which during the preva.
called TavernetteSj because most of lence of thick fogs are rung, to guide
the houses receive Travellers s and Travellers from one Refuge to' ano-
at the extremity of the Lake, on the ther t and these inns are tenanted by
Fiedmontese side, stands L'Hospice j CantonnisrSf whose business it is to
which was founded by. the Emperor keep the road in good condition*
Charlemagne, for the accommodation The number of Canianniers insti-
of Travellers ; suppressed at the com- tuted by Napoleon, has been reduced
mencement of the French Republic, by the King of Sardinia; who still,
but restored, and rendered more than however, preserves two companies,
usually flourishing, by the Emperor amounting to about fifty men : and to
Napcdeon. assist in defraying the expense of
The descent from the Italian Bar* keeping the new route in repair, and
rier into Piedmont displays much maintaining the establishment at
more stupendous scenery than does L* Hospice, there is a tax^ amounting^
the ascent from Savoy ; and the dif- to two livres for every hone, or mule,
ficulty of constructing the carriage.* who passes Cenis, three livres for
road was much greater on the Pied- every carriage not on springs, and siat
montese side than on the other. The livres for every carriage with springs
first gallery whidi presents itself, on — >small expenses these, compared with
this side, is six hundred and fifty feet what was formerly paid for conveyin^p
in length, and cut, in several places. Travellers, baggage and carriages over
through solid rocks of granite. The this Alp *. The new road is safe and
Plain of S. Niocolo is adorned with good at erery season.
- Before the new road was made, the ex- Voittiriers have paid five fralics for erenr horse
pense of conveying four persons and an English they take over the Moimtaio* WMeh is '
coach from Lms-le-Boazg to NovaleM wu than VMS paid eiiglnaUy. .
- ^ lottiiHl'on. During the present year, 1827,
Italy.J passage op MONT-GENEVRE. 511
The CarU<tnnier$ of Lans-le-Bourg^ winding gftUeriM, lik« thode of the
lu*e robust, intelligent, and honest : Sim{don and Cenis i but by short
neither Criiins nor goitrous swellings and numerous turns, resembling a
of any description are seen here : and, corkscrew, like those of the Col^.
what seems extraordinary, the Sa- Tenda. ForesU of larches crown the
Toyard Peasants speak better French heights above the plain of Mont-Ge-
than the Peasantry of France. n^vre, which exhibits an extraordinary
8 Post-house on the plain of Mont- sight in the Alps, namely, fields o£
Cenis rye and oats, seldom unproductive,
S Molaretto though frequently injured by the se-
2 Susa — This Town, anciently call- verity of the climate ; and here, during
ed Segusiam, Is watered by the *!» month of May, when Cenis still
Doria ; and was once defended wears his winter mantle. Spring puts
by the strong Fortress of L« on her gayest dress, and exerts her
Brunetta, which is now destroy- utmost activity : Travellers, however,
ed ; but there still remains near who pass the Mont-Gen^vre, should
the Town, a Triumphal Arch^ recollect that Wolves are more com-
erected by Cotus^ the monarch ™on here than on Cenis* The plain
of the Cottian Alps, who resign. ^ not so extensive as that of the last-
ed his sceptre to Augustus, named mountain ; but contains a ril-
Inn, La Posta, and tolerable. ^^e, and a Convent for the reception
In the valleys, lietween the base of Travellers. From Moni'Genivre
of Cenis and Susa, -the inhabit- to Ceeanne is two leagues— from Ch-
ants are afflicted with goitres ; sanne to Sestrilret four leagues — the
which they attribute to the chill descent from Seetriires to Fenettrelles^
the throat continually receives ^our leagues — ^and at the latter village
in consequence of the excessive there is a tolerable Inn. The double
coldness of the water. Port of Fenestrelles merits notice,
\\ S. Georgia both with respect to its construction
\\ S. Antonino and its situation. Henoe to Pignerol
11 Avigliana >^lt is said thM the i" ^fiT^t leagues — from Pignerol to
Post-roaster at S. Antonino has ^one four leagues and a half— and
recently been ordered to send from ^one to r»rtn the same distance,
his horses to S. Ambroglo, one ^oni contains a tolerable Inn.
post; whence to Rivoli is one
11 n^\^^ ^^^'^ quarters. HOtTTB piioM Kiel! TH»ouoh ge-
1 f 2*. mi ^ ,^ ^ "^^^ ^O '•ISA, Br THE KEW HOAD,
li rttnn-The road between Susa opewed ron carriages in
and Turin 18, generally speakmg, I827.
a descent; and, in its approach
tothelattertown^passesthroogh ?, iw^n/one--* small Inn.
a rich country, fertiliaed by ca- ^* renttmiglia^The H6tel de Tu-
nals, which distribute the waters . ^>^ " » tolerable Inn.
of the Doria. Near Turin this Ji t' ^^^^
road is heavy. The approach to ^* ^' Stefano
Turin, by way of Rivoli, is ^j One^io—JV tolerable lAn.
— handsome*. ^ AlUssio
33 J posts. ^i Albenga-^A tolerable Inn,
PASSAGE OF HOVT-GEVEVRE.
3 Fiihale
3} SaDona*-^ tolerable Inn.
44 Voltri
The distance ham. Brianc^on to 4 Genoa — An extra half-post is paid
Mont-Gen^vre is three leagues, and ■ on entering Genoa,
the road made under the direction 36^ posts.
of the Cav. Giovanni Fabbroni over This Road passes through a beanti-
this mountain, traverses a forest of ful country bordering on the sea ; and
I>ines, iirs, and lardies: not, how- is safe for carriages of all descriptions j
ever, by means of long and beautiful but not completely finished.
• An extra half-post is paid oa entering sad on quitting Turin.
512
APPENDIX.
[Ch. VI.
U
2}
KOUTE FROM OENjOA THROUOH
LUCCA TO PISA, BY THE HTKW
ROAD.
3 ReceO'—'A gradual ascent. A
third horse from Recco to the
next post, both going and re-
turning. An extra half-post is
paid on quitting Genoa.
1^ Rapalh — A third horse to the
next post, both going and re-
turning.
Chiavari — ^A third horse to the
next post, going but not return-
ing. Two good Hotels at Chia-
vari.
Bracea — A third horse to the
summit of the Mountain. Price
one livre and five sous, buona-
mano inclusive.
1^ Matiarana — ^A small Inn; not a
good one.
1^ Borghetto — A third and fourth
horse from Borghetto to Matta-
rana, but not vice vend. Inns at
Borghetto, L* Hotel de Londres,
and U Hotel d* Europe; latter
very bad ; former very tolerable.
A third and fourth horse from
Borghetto to La Spezia, and
vice versA,
3 La Spezia — Inns, L^ Hotel d*EU'
rope^ U Hotel de Londres, and
L* Hotel de VUnivers: the first
very comfortable ; the second by
no means a bad Inn ; the third
uncommonly dirty and ill pro-
vided. Road from Recco to La
Spezia very mountainous.
S} Sarzana — Inn, La Lunigiana^
and good. This is the last Town
in the Genoese Territories.
Lavenza — Road to Massa not
good.
1 Massa — Inn, Hotel des quartre^
Nations, and good.
1 Pietra Santa — Inn, La, Pasta,
and good.
1 Montramido
\\ Lucca — Inns, The Albergo Reale
delta Croce di Malta, and The
Pellicano.
2 Peseta
1^ Pistoja — Inn, H Sole, and toler-
able,
li Prato
1^ Florence.
^1 posts.
n
This Road, the seven miles between
Lavenza and Massa excepted, is
smooth, hard, and excellently made.
The ascents and descents, though nu-
merous, are not rapid ; but" they re-
quire additional parapet walls, to en-
sure the comfort and safety of Travel-
lers. For further particulars see, at
the end of this Chapter, " Route en
Voiturier from Naples through Ge-
noa, and by the 'Mont-Cenis, to Ca-
lais, in the Spring of 1827.'"
)>
ROUTE FROM OEXOA TO TURIN",
BY THE VAL DI SCRIVIA.
2i
24
2
n
n
n
n
n
24}
Poniedecima — A third and fourth
horse from Pontedecimo to
Ronco, and vice versd.
Ronco
Arquata — ^A third horse from
Arquata to Ronco; but not
vice versd,
Novi — Inn, Hotel d' Europe.
Alessandria — Inns, Grande AU
her go d* Italia — Locanda Reale.
An extra quarter of a post is
paid on quitting Alessandria.
Felizzano
Annone
Asti — Inn, 7%e Leone d^wo.
Gambetta
Dusino
Poirino — Inn, L* Angela.
Truffarello
Torino — An extra half-post^ is
paid on entering and on quitting^
Turin. This Road, by the
Val di Scrivia to Novi and thence
to Turin, is excellent ; and
- equally good at all seasons.
posts.
ROUTE FROM LEOHORK, THROUGH
PISA TO FLORENCE.
2 Pisa
1 La Fornacette
1 Castel del Boaco
1 La Scala — Inn, La Pasta, and
very uncomfortable:
1 Ambrogiana — Inn, La Pasta, and
very uncomfortable.
1 La Lastra
1 Firenze — The whole road, from
Leghorn to Florence, is excel-
cellent, and almost totally ex-
empt from hills : the inns are
bad : but this is of little oonse-
Italy.]
LUCGA— SIBNA— RADICOFANI, 40.
51^
quence to persons who go post;
as the journey does not occupy-
more than ten hours with post-
horses. Persons who travel en
voiturier^ and sleep upon the
road, generally stop at Capretta ;
which is about mid-way between
Pisa and Florence; and where
the Inn is better than those at
— — La Scala and Ambrogiana *,
B posts.
ROUTE FROM PISA, THROUGH LUC-
CA AND PI8T0JA, TO FLORENCE.
1^ Lucca— An extra half-post is
paid on going from Pisa to Luc-
ca; and an extra half>po8t on
quitting Lucca.
2 Borgo.a^Buggiano
\\ Pistoja
IJ PratQ
\\ Firenze.
8 posts.
Voiturins will take an English
post-chaise, carrying three or four
persons from Lucca through Pistoja
to Florence, in one day and a half,
for nine scudi, bumiamano not in-
clusive, and they will likewise con-
vey luggage from Florence to Rome
for two scudi the hundred weight.
ROUTE FROMFLORENCE, THROUGH
SIENA, TO ROME.
1 S, Cafciano — A post-royal. A
third horse.
1 Tavametle — ^A third horse.
1 Poggibonsi — Inns, UAlhergo delta
Corona^ and // Leone rosso* The
road from Florence to Poggibonsi
is hilly, and, in general, paved.
1 Castiglioncello — . A third horse.
Road good.
1 Siena — 'Be&tinn^ V Aquila Nera^
already mentioned. Road hilly,
but good *f*.
1 Motiiarone
1 Buonconvento — Road from Siena
hither excellent; though, near
Buonconvento, there i» a long
hill. Inn at Buonconvento, Le
Cheval AnglaiSy and tolerably
good.
1 Torrenieri — A third horse to
Poderina, and the same return-
ing.
1 Poderina
I Ricorsi — A third hone to Radi-
cofani.
I Radicofani — A lai^ and good
Inn, already mentioned. Road
from Buonconvento hither ex-
cellent, but hilly*
1 Ponie-Centino — This is the first
Custom-house in the Ecclesias-
tical territories : and Travellers
who are not provided with a
Laseia passare for Ponte^Cen-
tino meet with an unpleasant
detention here, and pay for hav-
ing their baggage plumbed. The
road from the Post-house on
Radicofani to the torrent at the
base of the mountain is excel-
lent; thence it traverses the
rough bed of a torrent ; and, be-
yond Toricelli, this torrent (as
already mentioned) is, after ram,
sometimes dangerous: but, in
case of necessity, Travellers may
sleep at Toricelli 4:* A third
horse from Ponte-Centino to
Radicofani.
14 Jquapendente — The road beyond
the torrent, to this Town, is ex-
cellent ; and the Inn here tole-
rably good.
% San-Lorenzo nuovo — A good Inn,
already mentioned. Road ex.
cellent.
I Bolaena — Road excellent. A third
horse to Montefiascone, and
likewise to S» Lorenxo.
• PersMM who wish to go either from Leg-
horn or Pisa to Rome, without passing
through Florence, may save three posts, by
taking the direct road through Po^ibonsi
to Siena. Tliis journey en voiturier occupies
about six days and a half; and VoitiMna
usually convey an English carriage, contain-
ing four i>er8ons, from Leghorn to Rorae« for
about sixteen louis-d'ors.
The direct road from Leghorn, through
Pisa, to Poggibonsi, \» as follows :
Poets 5, to La Scala,
1, to Cammiano*
2, to Poggibonri,
t Trayellers would do wisely to take win«
and water from Siena, for the rest of their
journey, both being excellent here, and un-
wholesome in most of the succeeding towns.
It is likewise advisable to take fruit from
Siena. On entering this city, Travellers are
obliged to leave the keys or their trunks at
the Gate, and pay half a paul : for which sum
the keys are brought to the opposite Gate, and
delivered up when their owners quit Siena.
t The price of oxen per pair, for aiding
post-horses to draw heavy carriages from
Ponte-Centino up the mountain ox Radlco*
faol, is sixty balocchL
2l
5U
APPENDIX.
f Ch. VI.
1 Montejiascone — Road good, but
hiUy.
1 Viterbo — A ^ood Inn, already
mentioned. A third horse to
the mountain.
H La Maniogna — Road good, but
hilljr.
•r RoncigHone — Road good. Inn, //
Leone tToro, A third horse from
Ronciglione to the Mountain.
1 Monterosi — A tolerable Inn near
the Lake.
1 Baccano — Inn, La Posta^ and
tolerably good.
1 Storia
1| Roma — The road between Mon-
terosi and the PonteMoUe, from
the spot where the Loretto and
Siena routes join, is occasionally
rough; but, from the Ponte-
MoUe to Rome, excellent. Tra-
vellers who are provided with a
Lascia passare for the Porta del
Popolo, have no trouble with
respect to Custom-house Offi-
cers ; but persons, not so pro-
vided, are obliged to drive, in
the first instance, to the Custom-
house ; and give from five to ten
pauls, in order to save their
^^SS^^ from a tedious exami-
An extra quarter of a
charged on entering
and an extra half- post
nation.
post is
Rome ;
— ^— on quitting it.
2d| posts.
BOUTE FROM FL011EKCE,THR0UGH
FERVaiA, TO ROME.
1 J Ponie a Sieve — ^A post-royal.
l| Incisa
2 Levane
2 Are»zo — ^Inn, La Posfa,
1 RiguHno—A good Inn.
\\ Camu9cia — Inn, La Posta,
]| Cdie dei Piano — A third horse
hence to Camuscia. •
1 Magione — A third horse to Peru-
gia, and vice versd,
H Perugia — Inn, La Corona^ and
good. The road from Florence
to Perugia is excellent ; unless
it be during wet seasons ; when
the Lake of Thrasymenus
sometimes overflows, and ren-
ders this route dangerous.
1 La Madonna degli AngeR — A
third horse to Perugia, but not
vice vers A,
1 Fofigno — Inn, La Posta^ and
tolerably good.
1 Le Fene
1 Spoleto — Inn, La Posta, and
good. A third horse to Stret-
tura, aifd vice versd. The
mountain of La Somma, over
which the road passes, is the
highest point in this part of the
Apennine. La Somma is sup-
posed to derive its name from a
temple dedicated to Jupiter-
Summanus, which stood on its
summit.
1 Strettwa
1 Temi — Inn, La Posta, and very
good.
1 Nami — A third horse from Nami
to Otricoli, and vice versA,
1 Otricoli — This Town stands abont
two 'miles distant from what is
supposed to have been the an-
cient Otrictttwn, which was
seated on the Tiber.
J Borghetto — Between this Village
and Otricoli the road crosses the
Tiber on a fine Bridge, erected
during the reign of Augustus,
and repaired by Sixtus V. A
third horse from Borghetto to
Otricoli, but not vice versA,
J Civita'Castei/ana — La Crocebian-
ca is a tolerable inn, though
small.
1 Nepi — Inn, comfortable as a
sleeping-place.
} Monterosi
1 Baccano
1 Storta
1| Roma — The road from Perugia
— ^ to Rome is excellent.
28 posts.
ROUTE FROM GENOA, THROUGH
ROLOGNA, RIMINI, SINIGA6I.IA,
ANCONA, LORETTO, AND TERKI,
TO ROME.
2 Pontedecimo *
21 Ronco
2 Arquata
IJ Novi
3| Tortona — La Croce tianca is a
good Inn.
_ • J^OT p«Tticiilarg respecting the extra-horse* Genoa and Novi, see »« Route KRoif Gamaa
Port-masters are empowoST to add between by th« Val di Scrivia, to T™n.» '
ITALT.] PIACENZA— BOLOONA^CESENA, 4;c,
515
2{ roghet*a
Catteggio
1| 5ro»t— Best Inn, La Posia.
2 Casfci S. Giovanni — Between this
spot and Piacenza the road
traverses the bed of the Tre-
bia.
2 Piacenza
2 Fiorenzuola — The Albergo delta
Posta la a good Inn.
1 S. Donnino
•1 Castei-Guelfo
1 Parma
1 S. Itario
1 Regrffio
1 JiiAiera
1 Modena
IJ Samoggia
\\ Bologna — Between Samoggia and
this City there is a bridge thrown
over the Reno. Bologna is
fkmous for quinces.
•1} S. Niccolo — The road crosses the
Savena on a bridge.
IJ Imoia — The Forum Comelii of
the Komans, is seated on the
ancient Via-EmiUa^ which leads
from Bologna to Rimini.
1 Faenza — Between Imola and this
Town the Road crosses the San-
terno on a hridp:e. Faenza,
anciently Faventia, was hereto-
fore celebrated for earthenware,
to which it gave the name of
Fa'ience, Part of the road be-
tween S. Niccolo and Faenza is,
during wet weather, dangerous.
1 Ftrrli — Anciently Fortim TAvii,
The Cupola of the Cathedral^
painted by Cignani, and the
Chapel of the Madonna del
Furco, together with several
pictures in other Churches, merit
notice. The Square is one of
the finest in Italy ; and the
Post-house is a tolerable Inn.
1| Cesena — The road, previous to
entering this Town, crosses tlie
Savio on a ma^iificent modern
Bridge. Cesena contains a ctiri-
ctts Library belonging to die
Minor Conventuals, and a Co-
lossal Statue of Pius VI. Be-
tween two and three miles from
this Town, the road crosses the
- The Villa, once inhabited by the late
Queen of England, is about a mile from
Piesaro: and Iii her pleasiire grounds are two
MflDumentBy the one erected to the memory
Pisatello, which flows into the
Fiumecino, supposed to have
been anciently called the Rubi-
con. Some authors, however,
assert that the Pisatello itself
was the stream which divided
Cisalpine Gaul from Italy.
I Savignano — ^Anciently Compitum.
1 Rimini — The road between this
Town and Fano is the Via-Fla.
minia. Rimini, the Araminium
of the Ancients, and once a con-
siderable City, still exhibits re-
mains of fonner magniflcence.
The Bridge over the Marecchia,
originally the Arminum^ appears
to nave been either built or re-
paired by Augustus and Tibe-
rius : It is situated at the junc-
tion of the Via-Emilia with the
Via-Flaminia ; and particnlrfrly
merits observation. On quitting
Rimini, the Pesaro-road passes
under a Triumphal Arch^ erect-
ed in honour of Augustus.
Ravenna, the seat of Empire un-
der Theo^oric, is only four
posts distant from Rimini, and
merits notice, on account of its
antiquities; and likewise be-
cause it contains the Tomb of
Dante. Besf Inn, La Fontana,
IJ Cattolica — Previous to arriving
at this Town, the road crosses
the Conca on a bridge; but,
when the Coaca rises high in
consequence of rain, the road is
dangerous. Between Cattolica
and Rimini u.ve ruins of the an-
cient City of Conca, inundated
by the sea ; and at a distance,
on the left, is the little Repub-
lic of San-Marino.
1 Pesaro — The great Square^ which
is handsome, contains a Statue
of Urban VIII. Several anti-
quities and some fine paintings
may be found in the Town.
. The figs of Pesaro ai'e deemed
the best in Italy; and the
Theatre is remarkably elegant •.
1 Fano— The modern name of this
Place seems to be derived from
a Fano^ or Temple of Fortune,
which once stood here. The
of her Brother, who was killed at Waterloo ;
and the other to the memory of her Daughter,
the amiable and ever to be lamented Pnncers
Charlotte of Wales.
2l2
516
APPENDIX.
[Ch. VL
ancient name, according to Vi«
tnivius, was Colonia Fanestris,
The objects best worth notice at
Fano are the remains of the Tru
umphal Arch of Constantine-—
the Library — the Theatre — and
the Cathedral^ which contains
paintings by Domenichino. The
Inn here is tolerably good.
\ Marotta — ^Between Fano and Ma-
rotta the road crosses the Metro,
anciently Metaurus^ celebrated
for the defeat and death of
Asdrubal, during the second
Punic war.
1 Sinigaglia — So called from its
Founders, the GaJli-Senones.
This Town is enlivened by a
celebrated Fair, during the last
week of July.
1 Case-Bruciate
IJ Ancona — So called from being
^ built in an angle resembling an
elbow. This is a commercial
Town, with a fine Harbour,
and a magnificent Quay. The
Triumphed Arch erected by the
Roman Senate, in honour of the
[ Emperor Trajan, for having im-
proved the Harbour of Ancona
at his own expense, peculiarly
merits notice : as it is finely pro-
portioned, well preserved, and
composed of larger blocks of mar-
ble than we find in any other an-
cient Roman edifice. Clement
XII made Ancona a Free-Port.
Oblong Shell-fish called Ballari^ or
Dattili del mare, are found alive
in large stones on this coast :
they were deemed a great deli-
cacy by the ancient Romans;
and are, according to Pliny, so
luminous, that they shine in the
mouth of the person who eats
them.
IJ Osimo
1 Loretto— The road between An-
cona and Loretto traverses a
beautiful plain intersected by
the rivers Musone and Aspido.
Few of the original trieasures of
the celebrated Santissima Casa
of Loretto now remain : but the
liberal donations the Bona-
parte Family, and other wealthy
Roman Catholics, have, in some
degree, compensated for the loss
sustained, during the Pontifi-
cate of Pius VT, by tlie Church
of the Madonna at Loretto.
' This Church is magnificent ; and
in its centre, immediately under
the cupola, stands the Santissi"
ma Casa, cased with Carrara
marble finely sculptured ; and
containing a Picture of the Na-
tivity, by Annibale Caracci, and
a Holy Family, by Raphael;
together with numerous trea-
sures of various descriptions.
The Piazxa,ironiing the Church
of the Madonna, merits notice ;
as does the subterranean Disr
pensary, which is furnished
with three hundred Gallipots,
painted after the designs of Ra-
phael, or Giulio Romano.
I Rccanati
I Sambucheto
1 Maccrata — The Post-house here
is a good inn. — The country be-
tween Loretto and Macerata is
beautiful, and richly cultivated ;
and near the latter Town are
ruins of the City of Heloia-Ri^
etna, built by Septimius Severus.
Macerata is famous for arti-
chokes.
Ij^ Tolentmo — The Square in this
Town exhibits a well-preserved
piece of ancient Sculpture.
After quitting Tolentino, the
road traverses a part of the
Apennine.
\ Pa/cimara — The number of tor-
rents which issue from the east-
em side o£ the Apennine is so
considerable, that Travellers
should not venture to go by way
of Ancona and Loretto to Rome,
after recent inundations, caused
either by hard rain, or the melt-
ing of snow.
1 Ponte-al/Q'Trava
1 Seravalle
1 Case-,Nuove
•1 Foligno ^
\1\ Roma— See the Route from Flo-
-• — rence thi*ough Perugia to Rome.
72^ posts.
aOTTTE t'ROM HILAN* THROUGH
BERGAMO, BRESCIA, VERONA, VI-
CENZA, AND PADUA, TO VENICE,
BOLOGNA, AND FLORENCE.
Ij Colomharolo — The country from
Milan hither is beautiful
Italy.]
BERGAMO— BUESCIA.
617
1 Vaprio
i Osio
1 Bergamo — Near Canonica, Tra-
vellers cross the Adda, anciently
the Adua, in a ferry. The
Bergamasco is highly cultivated,
fertile and populous ; the Town
of Bergamo large, well fortified,
and adorned with a handsome
Cathedral, which contains paint-
ings of the modem Venetian
School : but the best pictures
are in the Church of Sa, Ma^
ria Maggiore. Principal Inn,
L^Albergo Reale, Bergamo is
called the birth-place of Harle-
quin. This Town is enlivened
by a celebrated Fair, during the
latter part of August, and the
commencement of September ;
and its resident inhabitants
amount to above thirty thou*
sand persons. ' *
1 Cavemago
1 Paiazzoio
1^ Ospeda/etio
1 Brescia — The road from Berga-
mo hither traverses a rich plain
at the foot of the Alps. Brescia
is a considerable Town, seated
at the base of a mountain, be-
tween the rivers Mella and
Naviglio, and supposed to con-
tain forty-five thousand inha-
bitants ; its fortifications are
strong, and defended by a cita-
del. The Palazzo di Giustizia
is a remarkable Edifice, built
(on the site of an ancient Tem-
pie, dedicated to Vulcan) partly
in the Gothic, and partly in the
Grecian style : it contains fine
Frescos, together with other
good Paintings. The Cathedral
is a handsome modern Struc-
ture. The Churches of S, Na^
zaro al Carmine, and S, Afra,
contain fine pictures of the
Venetian School, as do several
of the Palaces. The Mazzuc-
chelli collection of medals, and
the public Library, merit no-
tice. The Theatre is handsome ;
and / dtJte Torri is the best
Inn.
Brescia, anciently JBriana, celebra-
ted for having gods peculiar
to itself, was a rich and flourish-
ing Roman Clolony, till injured
by the attacks of the Goths, and
subsequently conquered and sack-
ed by Atilla. It has recently be-
come an extremely interesting
place; owing to excavations,
. begun in 1820, and continued
till 1826 ; which have brought
to light remains of part of the
Forum of Arrius (now the
Piazza del Novarino) ; a view
-of an Edifice supposed to have
been the Curia; a Mosaic
Pavement of a rare and elegant
pattern ;' a large number of
Inscriptions ; and a magnificent
Temple consecrated to Hercules,
and displaying superb channelled
Columns of the Corinthian
Order. This Edifice is con-
structed with large blocks of
white marble ; its Cornices, and
other architectural decorations,
are finely sculptured ; and in a
narrow hollow space, filled with
ashes, under the Pavement, on
the left side of the Portico, was
found, in July 1826, a bronze
Statue, between five and six
feet high, representing Victory,
winged, draped from the waist
downward, and adorned with a
laurel diadem of inlaid silver.
The attitude of the Figure is
similar to that of the Victory
in relief on Trajan's Column.
This Statue appears to have
been cast in two parts ; for the
wings were found taken off,
and placed at the feet of the
Figure. A portion of one wing
is wanting ; as are the two first
joints of three fingers of the
\ right hand. Remains of gild-
ing are seen on the Statue ;
which is pronounced, by Con-
noisseurs, to be one of the most
sublime productions of Grecian
Art ! 1 Like other ancient
bronzes, it is very thin. Under
its feet, in the same place, was
discovered a bronze Figure
about eighteen inches high,with^
the arms bound behind its back,
and of indifferent workmanship.
It is called a captive King.
Several bronze Busts of Em-
perors and Empresses were
likewise discovered in this hol-
low space; and the gilding op
fiI8
APPENDIX.
JCJh, VI.
these Bints, and on the Statne
uf the captire King, is so fresh
as to appear the work of yester-
day. The heathen Divinities
])8raed in the Inscriptions are —
Dij Manes — * ^ihtt^a. — Divns
Tr^anus — Fata Augusta— ^Fata
Barbarica — Fata Divina — Fata
Fatalia — Fati Dpruones — Her-
cules — Juno Hegina — Junones
— Volcauus — Volkanus Augus-
tus — Volkanus Mitis siveMuld-
berus.
li Ponte S. Marco
1 Desenzano — ^After passing Ponte
8. Marco, the road lies on the
luxuriant margin of the liago
di Garda ; whose waters re-
semble a little sea, and contain
a fish called Carpioney which
was deemed particularly delici-
ous by ancient Epicures.. The
Lago di Garda, formerly deno-
minated Locus Benacus, is
about thirty-five miles in length;
and, where widest, fourteen in
breadth : the Alps in great
measure surround it, and the
picture it exhibits is beautiful.
1| CasteUNuovo
\\ Verona — On quitting the ipargin
of the Lago di Garda, the road
enters the Veronese, which is
one of the most fertile parts of
Italy ; abounding in corn, wine,
oil, fniits, mulberry-trees, rice,
&c. Verona, pleasantly sijtuated
on the Adige (anciently Atagis\
and one of the oldest Cities of
Italy, is supposed to contain
50,000 inhabitants, including
its suburbs. The fortifications
were constructed by San-Mi-
cheli. Here, according to the
Marchess Scipio Maffei, is an
ancient doubie Gate, now called
Porta dei Borsari, and similar
to the Double Gates of ancient
Rome ; here likewise is cm Am-
phitheatre, supposed to. have
been built during the reign of
Ti*ajan, and almost perfect. It
contains 23,404 spectators, com-
modiqusly seated; and is com-
posed of large blocks of marble
without cement. Near this mag-
. nificent monument of antiquity,
stands the modem Theatre, a
^ne structure, with a beautiful
portico, built by Palladio. The
Tombs cf the Scaligeri Family
merit notice, as does the P^Uazzo
del Consiglio, a noble edifice,
built by San-Sovino. The
€hiesa di S, Giorgio contains a
Picture of the lilartyrdom pf
that Saint, by Paolo Veronese ;
and the Church of S, Bemar^
dino contains the celebrated
Capella-Varesca, by San-Mi-
cheii, Verona gave birth to
the Poets Catullus and uGmilius
Macriis; the Historian Cor-
nelius Nepos ; Pliny the £lder ;
Vitruvius, the celebrated Archi-
tect of the Augustan age ; Paolo
Veronese ; and many other per-
sons of distinguished abilities.
The petrified Fishes f^und in
Monte-Bolca, near Verona, are
curious. Principal Inn?, Le
due Torri, and La Torre di
Londra,*
1 Caldiero
- About half a mile distant from the walls
of Verona, in a Garden, once the Cemetery of
a Francescan Convent, is a Sarcophagus*
called the Tomb of JuUet; and made of
Verona marble; with a place for her head,
a socket for a candle, and two holes for the
admission of air. Julietl is supposed to have
died in tlie year 1303, when fiartolommeo
della Scala (or degli Scallgeri) was Lord
of Verona: and Shakspeare probably in-
tended to represent one of the Scaligeri, by
his Escalus. The names of the rival xS^mUle?,
whom our great Poet has immortalized, were
Capello, and Montechio: the tomb of the
former stood in the Cemetery of the Frances-
can Church, and they had a p^ace in the
town of Verona : they were highly favoured
by the Scallgeri ; a circvunstance which pro-
bably of&nded the Montecbi, a mure ancient
and affluent family than the other, and pos-
"•essors of the Castle of Montechio (situated
"wut fifteei^ miles tcom VexoDa^) and likewise
Diopriteto^rs of a palace in the Veionctta.
After the marriage and fray, Juliet came to
the Fr^cescan Convent, under pretence of
oonfesiion; and her confessor. Father Lo-
renzo (called, in the Conifiendio from wliich
this account is extracted, Leonardo of tleggio)
gave her a powerful soporific ; at the same
time sending to inform her refa»M0|i8 that
she bad been suddenly attadc^ by illness;
and, as the soporific took effect before their
arrival, they thought her dead : consequently,
she was not removed from the Convent; but
immediately put into her coffin ; and, accord-
ing to a custom which still prevails, a lighted
caudle was placed in the coSEbi, near her head ;
and, after the funeral ceremony, the lid, ac-
cording to usual practice, was put on, in
private. Falher Lorenzo, when resolved to
admiuistor the soporific, sent a letter to Man-
tua, informing R(Mneo of this resolution;
but, before the letter arrived, he heud the
report of Julief a death, left lCant;iA» scaled
iTALT.f
VICENZA~NOVARA-«VERCELLI.
6ia
14 Monte- Bei/o
ij Vicenza — From Verona hither
the road is bordered by mul-
berry-trees interlaced with vines ;
and exhibits a view of the Alps
which divide Italy from Ger-
many. Vicenza, anciently called
Vicetta^ is delightfully situated
on the Bacchiglione ; contains,
including its suburbs, above
30,000 inhabitants ; and is the
birth-place of the celebrated
Architect Palladio, who has
adorned it with his finest works ;
namely, the Olympic Theatre ! I
the Basilica J and several Po-
Idces in the ToAvn, (where the
House he once inhabited may
still be seen;) the TrtitmphcU
Arch leading to the Campo
Marzo ; and the Church of the
Madonna del Monte, not far
distant. The Rotondo of the
Casa-Capra was likewise built
by Palladio. Best Inn, / dite
Rode, and very comfortable.
The wine of Vicenza has the
reputation of being particularly
wholesome; and the climate,
during summer, is one of the
best in northern Italy.
IJ Slesega — The couhtiy from Ve-
rona hither is beautiful.
1 Padua — The Stella d*oro has
been already mentioned as a
good Inn: the Aquila d'oro
likewise is a good one.
\\ Doio
1 } Fusina — Road, from Milan hither,
excellent.
Venice — by water, five miles.
Travellers who go by land to
Fusina, usually return by water
to Padua ; whence the cQstance
1^ to Manse/ice
14 Rovigo
2 Pohsella
IJ Ferrara — A Procaccio goes twice
a week from Ferrara to Bologna,
by water.
\\ MalabfTgo
1 Capodargine
1 Bologna
IJ Pianoro — Hence to Lojano a
tho wall of the Cemetery belonring to the
Francescan Convent, and swallowed the
poiion.«Ncxt day Bartolommeo degli Scaligeri,
third horse, or oxen, to every
caleche > and for all the sharp
ascents of this passage of the
Apennine carriages which usu-
ally travel with three hors^
must have four, and carriages
which usually travel with four
horses must have six, besides
oxen.
14 Lojano
1 Filigare
\ Covigliajo
1 JMonte-Carelli — On going -from
i\lonte-Carelli to Covigliajo a
third horse, or oxen.
1 Cafaggiolo
1 Fonte Buona
1 Firenze.
42 J posts.
ROUTE FROM MILAN TO BOLOOKA;
THROUGH FIACENZA, PARMA^
REQGIO, AND MOOENA.
§
\\ Melegnano
\\ Lodi — Inns, VAlbergo del Sole ;
/ tre Re ; ^c,
1^ Casai-Pusterlengo
2 Fiacenza
12 Bologna — See " Route from Ge-
noa, through Bologna, Rimini,
Sinigaglia, Ancona, iioretto, and
— Terni, to Rome."
18| posts.
ROUTE FROM MILA^ TO TURIN.
\\ Sedriano
1 Buffalora
3 Novara — This is an episcopal
City of high antiquity, and iti
Cathedral merits notice. Herd
are three Jnns, Les troU RoiSj
La Poisson d*or, and Le Fau^
con.
IJ Orfengo
\\ Vercelli — Between Novara and
Vercelli the country is marshy,
and the air unwholesome. Rice
grows luxuriantly here, and
s^ems to be almost the only
grain which is cultivated iii this
neighbourhood. Vercelli, seated
at the confluence of the Cerva
and the Sesia, is a considerable
and the two rival families, assisted at the
obsequies of the unfortunate Romeo an
Juliet.
APPENDIX.
[Ch. VL
Town; ttid ihg ParHeo of t/#
Caihedral meriu notice. The
principal Inni aie, Le Lum cToTj
and Lestroit Bais.
S. Germano
\\ Jitmdi$9ome
1 Ckiva»9o
Setiimo
Turin — Between Settimo and
Turin the road is excellent, and
the country fertile, well-culti-
vated, and watered by the rivers
Doria, Stura, Molone, Oreo, and
Dora-Baltea, all of which de-
. soend from the Alps,
posts.
2
IJ
18
&OUTE FBOM A08TE TO TUEIH*.
3| Ch&tiUon
3f Donat
3 Ivree
!2i Caiu»o
l| ChtvoMto
3 Turin.
17i posts.
ROUTE FROM TIIRIK, OVER THE
MARITIME ALPS, TO KICE.
21 Carignano
2% Racconigi
iX Savigiiano
2\ Centaic
\\ Coni — Best inn. La Postaf,
1 Borgo S, Daimazio
2} Limonell^
4 Tenda
2| Breglio
2I Soapello I
2% Scarena
2i Nice Persons going this road
should provide wine for their
— - journey at Turin.
27f posts.
ROUTE FROM ROME TO KAFLES.
1| Torre di mezzO'Via — Hence, to
Rome, the charge is only one
post and a quarter.
\ Albono
• Thexe are no rdsys of post-hoTses at the
three first ttatlons.
t There are no relays of post-horses between
-Ql and Nice ; ther^ore* on thb road, it is
>ssary to travel en vdturier.
Between Limone and Scarena it is tte*
Genzano—A third horse from Al-
huio to Crenzano, (but not yiee
versA;) and for a carriage
with either four, or six horses,
two in addition.
Felietri
A third horse
from Yelletri to
Genzano, (but not
8 vice vends) and
£ for a carriage
S drawn by either
^ four or six horses,
^o two in addition.
J Thejoumeyfiom
S Yelletri to Tenra-
P cina. usually oc-
cupies from four
to five hours with
post-horses.
1 Cittema
\\ Torre cfc' tre
Ponti
I Bocca di Plume
1 Meta
1 Ponte Maggiore
1 Terracina
1} Pondi—X third horse in addition
to every pair, from Fondi to
Itri.
1 Itri . ^. ^
1 Mola — From Mola to Itri a third
horse, as far as the Cenotaph of
Cicero. The price of this horse
is ten grains.
1 Gari>/ia«o— The toll paid for
every four-wheeled close car-
riage on springs, which crosses
the Garigliano, is six carlini ;
and for every open carriage, four
carlini. From Garigliano to S.
Agata a third horse is added to
every pair.
1 S. Agata
1 Sparanisi-..^ third horse in ad-
dition to every pair, from Spa-
ranisi to S. Agata.
1 Capua— At the barrier here, four
ducats are paid for every coach,
or post-chaise ; and two piastres
for every open carriage on
springs.
1 Aversa
I Naples — An extra haK-post is
paid on entering and on quitting
.... this city $.
20| posts.
Persons in robust health, who tra-
vel post from Rome to Naples, may,
by setting out very early the first
morning, reach Terracina before the
clo89 of day; and again, by setting
out very early the second morning,
they may reach Naples that night. Tf,
quently difficult to travel in a carriage.
S Travellers, on entering Napies, are obliged
to deposit their passports at the Polioe-Offlce ;
neither can they, till their departure, legally
reclaim them.
iTAtY,]
KOUTES-^c,
621
howeveis ^ health, short days, or any
other cause, compel Travellers to sleep
two nights on the road, the best plan
is to go to Velletri the first day, to set
out soon after sunrise on the second
day, drive to Mola di Gaeta, sleep
there ; and on the third day, by setting
out early, it is practicable to reach
Naples at the common hour for din-
ner. By pursuing this plan Travel-
lers pass the Pontine Marshes at the
whol^somest time, 'namely, between
nine-in..the .morning and tnree in the
afternoon.
A light Carretella, containing two
persons only, with but little luggage,
usuidly goes from Rome to Terracina
in ten hours and a half ; and returns
in nine hours — goes from Terracina
to Naples in fourteen hours, and re«
turns in eleven houi^
EOUTE FROM NAPLES TO PJESTtJM.
H Torre del Annunziata — A post-
royal; on account of which an
extra half-post is charged.
IJ Nocera
1| Salerno — From Nocera to Salerno
an additional horse to every pair.
1 Ficenza
1 Eboli
2 P€ettumy by way of Persano.
9 posts, including the post-royal.
ENVIRONS OF NAPLES.
Posts.
1 from Naples to Caivano.
1 from Caivano to Caserta,
\ from Caserta to S. Leucio,
1 from Naples to PozzuoH.
1 from PozzuoH to FusarOy or Li"
cola.
1 from Naples to Astroni.
4 from Naples to Capo-di'Monte,
1 from Naples to Poriici, La Fa^
vorita, or Torre del Greco.
ROUTE EN VOITURIER, FROM
ROME TO FLORENCE, THROUGH
PERUOIA,W]TH A BERLIN DRAWN
BY FOUR MULES.
Hours.
Monteroti . . ^
Civita'Castellana 3 J
- Persons who wish to see the Cascade of
Temi, and avoid sleeping at Torricella, where
the inn is comfortless, should stop the first
night at Ci'pJto-OowMtefia— the second at TetM
Hours.
Temi . . . 7^
Spoleto. . . 5^ Between Stret*
tura and this town, oxen are
required to ascend the mountain
of La Somma.
Foligno « . • 4^
Perugia • • . 5| Oxen are re-
quired to ascend the mountain
on which Perugia stands.
Torricella • . 4^
Camuacia • . 6
Arexzo • • • 6^
San-Giovanni • 6|
Firenze • • • 7
It is unwholesome to travel from
Florence through Perugia to Rome
from the time when the great heats
commence till after the autumnal rains
have fallen : and it is almost equally
unwholesome to travel from Rome
through Siena to Florence, during the
great heats*.
ROUTE, EN VOITURIER, FROM
FLORENCE THROUGH SIENA TO
ROME, WITH AN ENGLISH POST-
CHAISE DRAWN BY THREE
HORSES.
Hours.
Poggibon»i . • 6 — First day.
Siena . . . 3^
Buonconvento . 3^
S. Quirico . . 2| — Second day
La Sca/a . . 3
Radicofani . • 3
Torricelli . . 2J— Third day.
S.LorenzO'Nuovo 3
Boltena ... 1^ From S. Lo-
renzo- Nuovo hither the road lies
on the margin of the Lake of
Bolsena ; the air of which has
been already mentioned as un-
wholesome.
Montefiascone . 3 — ^Fourth day.
Viterbo ... 2}
Monterosi . . 6 — Fifth day.
Roma . . • 6— Sixth day.
ROUTE, EN VOITURIER, FROM
ROME TO NAPLES, WITH AN
ENGLISH POST-CHAISE, DRAWN
BY THREE HORSES.
Hours.
Velletri . . . 6— First day.
Terracina . . 9^ — a stop of two
—the third at l^leto— the fourth at Perugia
-—the fifth at Qsmutfcia— and the sixth ^JL
5. Giovanni f or M« LdKonda M Pi
tn
APPENDIX.
COb.vr
hoon on th^ Pontine Marshes meals a day, for one master and lour
inclusive. Second day. servants, is about sixty scudi, buona^
Fondi ... 2 mano not inclusive.
6. Affata . . 6^Tbiid day.
Caoiui 3A BOUTE, Eir voiturieu, from ca-
v!^l->- ' ' ' Qi LAIS TO ROME, DURING THE
^ * WINTER OF 1820, WITH AN ENO-
&OUTE,EyyOITDRIER, FROM ROME LISH POST-CHAISE, DRAWN BY
TO NAPLES, WITH AN ENGLISH FOUR STRONG HORSES.
POST-CHAISE DRAWN BY FOUR jbo Voiturin was Emery, now de-
HORSES. ceased, who charged, for conveying a
Velletri . . First day. An extra landaulet drawn by four horses, and
horse from Albano. finding two meals a day, with three
Mola • . . Second day. An extra good bed-rooms every night, for one
horse from Itri. master and two servants, an hundred
Caserta • • Third day. and ten Louis-d^ors ; he defraying aU
Kaples . , Fourth day... at eight expenses, except the customary fees to
in the morning. Servants at Inns. Had this journey
The usual charge £or conveying a l)een undertaken at a more favourable
carriage in this manner from Rome to season, Emery would not have de-
Naples, and finding beds, and two manded so high a price.
Dsys. Postk Inns.
Ist 4^ Boulogne ■ Ancien lUtel (PAngUthre,
2d MoiUreuil V Hotel de Londres.
7 Bemay La Poste.
•3d Airaines La Poste,
9 Granviffiert Hotel tPAngleterre,*^*
4th Beauvaii L* Ecu de France,
8 Beaumont Le Paon.
6th 4 Paris H6tel de Montauban.
6th Montgeron La Fille de Lyon,
6^ Melun Hotel de France ,
7th Montereau Le Grand Monarque,
8 Sens UEcu
8th Joigny r. Les cinq Mineurs,
7i Auxerrv ^ Hotel de Beaune.
9th Lucy-le-Bois La Poste. ^
Q\ Rouvray La Poste.
10th Saulieu Le Dauphin,
'About 6 Emay ,.... Hotel de la Ormx blanche. •^
11th La Roche Pot Le Ckevreuil,
About 7 Chalonssur-Saone Les trois Faisans,
12th Toumus H6teldu Sauvage,
7^ Macon Hotel d* Europe,
1 3th Huit Franche Le Faucon .i^
8^ Lyon^ Hotel du Nor d.
14th 3| La Verpellier L^ Chapeauro^ge,
1 6th Le Tour du Pin -f* Le Soieil. ^J*
7| Les Esckelles. La Poste,
16th Chambeiy La Poste — U Hotel du petit Paris.
6 Montmellian La Poste. ^^
17th Aiguehelle Hotel de l* Union.
71 S,Jran-de-Maricnne:!Jli... La Poste.
18th S. Michel Hotel de Londres,
4^ Modane Hotel du Lion d'or.
1 9th 4 Lans-le-bourg Hotel Royal,
- Beyond Lyon the inns do not furnbli tea. ^ A tolerable inn, called L'HStd du petit S. .
T French and Savoyard Frontier Custom- Julien^ between S. Jean de Maurleofle and
houses between Le Tour du Pin and Leg S. Michel.
Earhelles.
ISAIiT*]
ROUTES— 4c.
fiaa
Owing to an UQCommonly rapid le-bourg to Mola^et, or Sfisa ; and
and heavy fall of snow upon Motlnt Trarellera, to avoid stopping at the
Cenis, it was found needful here to former place, while thfeh* carriages
place the bodies of carnages in TVat- are remounted, usually proceed to the
neaita;, as far as Molaret ; though the latter* Carriages, generally speaking,
wheels were drawn over the mountain are live hours in ascending in 2t
without being taken off their axles. Traineau from Lans*le-bQurg to La
Voiturins pay from twenty to thirty Grande Croix ; and f|ve hours in de-
francs for conveying the body of a scending from Jja Grajide Croix tq
carriage, in this manner from Lans- Susa.
pay*. Posts. Jxxfuh
20th Lagrande Croix,.. ^ Delidous Trput may be procured
here.i^
8 Sma La Posta.
21st S» AmbroQio Albergo delia P^ign^,
7 J Turin. V li'Europa — Pengion >5>w«W.
22d Ftiia Nuova .... Albergo di S^ Marco,
7i A»ii 1/ Lione d'oro.
2^d Alessandria Albergo Reale d* Italia,
8J Tortona* La Croce bianca*
24th Broni La Posta.
7 J Castel S. Giovanni'f' Albergo di S, Marco,
25th Fiorenzuola La Posta,
3 Borgo S. Donino La Crocc bianca.
26th S. Ilario La Posta. •^t
6 Rubiera Onlg one Jnn.t^*
27th Castel Franco J Albergo di S. Marco,
4 Bologna Albergo Jmperiale.
28th Lojano La Postd,*^
5 Covigliajo La Posta,
29th Le Maschere A single House,
4 Florence // Pellicuno,
The road over the Apennine, be- frosty weather, it is sometimes need-
tween Bologna and Florence, is so ful to chain one hind-wheel an^ one
well constructed as to be almost fore-wheel transversely at the same
constantly passable even during heavy moment, and always necessary to
falls of snow ; but on descending double chain one wheeL
from Lojano to Florence, during
30th Tavemefle Merely a resting-place for horsey.
3 Poggibonzi // Leone rosso,
31st Siena VAquilanera,
4 Buonconvento §...., Le Ckeval Anglais,
32d Locamla dclla Scalft A single House,
5^ Torricelli Only one Inn.*^
Torricelli is situated about six miles gerous without good driving light ;
beyond the mountain of Radicofani ; though the road, over Radicofani, is
and Travellers who ^arrive late in the at all seasons smooth and hard : but
day, during winter, on the summit from the base of the mountain to
of this mountain, should not attempt Torricelli, and a short distance fur-
descending till the next morning ; ther, the road, from being intersected
as the descent, from being rapid, and by a to^'rent, is v.ery rough, during
near the brink of precipices, is dan- wi4ter,
• Ju»t beyond Voehera a Bridge, which, gerous after heavy rains,
unless drivers be careful, is dangerous. t A frontier Cuatom-houae, belonging to th*
f A frontier Custom-house, bdonging to Pope.
Maria-Louisa. Between Castel S. Giovanni { Oxen are requisite, during winter, to draw
aod Fiorenzuola Travellers ford that celebrated carriages up the bill near Bufflwonvento.
iqjff^t, th^ TrebJiai which » sometiaie& dan- .^
524 APPENDIX. [CLVI.
PotltM, Sayk Ihm.
33d BoUena IJ'Aigle d'or,^
4} Moniefiatcone La Po»ia,
34th Bxmciglione II Leone (Tor o,
4 M&nteron La Posta, near the Lake,
35th Storta
3| Roma
Inns good, those marked with a stead of taking the shorter road
Cross excepted. Road, in consequence through Alessandria.
of heavy rain, very indifferent be-
tween Lucy-le-Bois and Emay, be- aoute, en voiturier, from ca-
tween La Roche Pot and Chalons, lais, by pontarlier, to keu-
hetween Huit Franche and Lyon, chatel; and thence through
and between Tortona and Broni ; but, lausanne and bex, by the
in every other part, perfectly good. simflon^ to boi^gona.
i'^^i!'.5friLiJT*"" "^'"L ^Tr^f:^ FromCalaU to Auxonne,thi8 Route
It 18 advisable to go from Turin to . ^, ^ ., ^ , ^. '
Milan,, and thence*^ u, Bologna, in. " *^^ '^^ »» ^^ ^^
Ist day's journey from Auxonne, JWo»/-*ow« Vaudrey hours b\
„ Salins^ Inn Le Sauvape 4
2d „ Levier, Inn Le Sauvage 4J
„ Pontarlier, Inn Le Lion cTor 3|
3d „ Couvez, Inn Le Lion (Tor 3j
„ Neuchatel, Inns, Le Faucon-Les Balances ... 4^
4th „ Concise^ Inn L* Ecu de France 4^
„ Orbe, Inn La Maison de Ville 3|
6th „ Lausanne, Inns, L« J'at^con — La Couronne... 5
6th „ r^vay, Inns, Les trots Couronnes — La Croiaf
de Malthe 3
„ Bea; Inn V Hotel der Union 4
7th „ Martignp, Inn Le Cigne 2
„ Sion, Inn Le Lion d* or 4
8th „ Tourtemaffne^ Inn Le Lion d* or 5
„ Brigg^ Hotel d"* Angleterre 4
dth „ Village of Simplon, Inn La Poste 6}
10th „ D'Omo d'Ossola, Inn La Posta 4}
„ Fariola^ Inn II Leone d*oro 4
11th „ SestO'CalendCylnn La Posta 5J
„ Cascina, Inn La Posta 3|
12th „ Mi\an,Inn Hotel Suisse v 4}
„ Lodi, Inn La Posta 44
13th „ Piacenza, Inn Albergo delle tre Ganasce 5
„ Fiorenzola^ Inn La Croce Bianca 4
14th „ Parma, Inn // Poone 5
„ Reggio, Inn Albergo Reale 4
15th „ ModenA^ Inn Hotel de S. Marco 44
„ Samoggia^ Inn La Corona 3
16th „ Bologna 4
The road from Auxonne to Salins and Pontarlier. The verdure in this
Is good, till it approaches the latter country is beautiful ; and the turf.
Town, situated in a dell of the de- which resembles velvet, is enamelled,
partment of the Jura, and consisting during spring and autumn, with mul-
of old houses and dirty streets exe- titudes of Alpine flowers. Pontar-
crably paved, but surrounded with lier stands is a pretty situation ; and
picturesque scenery. Beyond Salins its streets are broad and clean: aJ-
the road ascends a steep and lofty most immediately beyond it, in the
ain ; passes through a fine wood Village of Verrieres, is the Frencii
and then descends to Levier Frontier Custom-house ; and near
Italy.] ROAD FROM PONTARLIBR TO NEUCHATEL. 62d
this spot tbe road divides into two
branches ; one going to Neuchatel,
the other to Lausanne. The Neu-
chatel road passes through a narrow
gorge of the Jura to a plain, whence
it is carried about midway up a moun-
tain, and formed into a magnificent
gallery; the soil above which is pre-
vented from falling,, by means of very
strong hurdles placed one row above
the other: and beyond this gallery
the extensive Lake of Neuchatel, and
the Glaciers of Berne, (called The
Young Fry,) suddenly present them-
selves to view. The road then de-
scends to the margin of the Lake,
where the scenery is bold, rich,
and beautiful. Neuchatel, a large
Town, contains two Inns, Le Faticon
and Les Balances. There are several
handsome villas in the neighbourhood :
and the new and excellent road from
Pontarlier hither, is a superb work.
From Neuchatel to Lausanne the road
passes through a lovely country to
Concise : where the Inn is dean and
comfortable ; and thence it proceeds
to Orbe ; which, though a small
village, has a tolerable Inn.
This Passage of the Jura, by Sa-
lins, through Pontarlier, to Lau-
sanne, is far preferable to that by way
of Poligny ; there being only one
steep hill in the Pontarlier-road, and
nothing to alarm the most fearful
Traveller. The road, from Lausanne
by Vevay and Bex, to the Swiss
Frontier, is likewise good and flat,
one steep hill between Lausanne and
Vevay excepted.
The Custom-house at Verrieres is
no great annoyance to persons who
travel in their own carriage; and
small fees at the Swiss and Italian
Custom-houses prevent baggage from
being searched.
ROUTE FHOM FLORENCE, THROUGH
BOLOGNA, VENICE, VIENNA,
PRAGUE, AND DRESDEN, TO
HAMBURGH*.
23 Fusina — See " Route from Milan
• See, xmder Germany, the price of post
horses in that country.
t Travellers who take the Klagenfurt-road
go from Pordenon to S. Paternion ; crosshig,
previous to their arrival at the latter place, the
Tagliamento, and then proceeding to
Posts.
rwach - - - li
Velden - - - 1
Klagenfurt - - 1
through Bergamo, &c.^ to Ve<*
nice, Bologna, and Florence.*'
Venice, by water, 6 miles ; and
thence by water to MeMtre^ 5
miles.
I Treviso — Principal inn, La Pasta.
Sprenano
Conegliano
\ SacUe
Pordenon "I* — anciently Poriui
Naonis.
I Codroipo
I Udine
I Nogaredo
Goertz
Cernicza
Wippach
Praewald
AdeUberg — See, under Germany,
the Route from Vienna to
Trieste.
La88e
'Ober-Layhach
§ Laybach — See, under Germany,
the Route from Vienna to
Trieste.
\ Podpetsch
S. Oswald
Franz
my
^ Gannowilz
Freistritz
J Mahrbitrgh — See, under Germa-
ny, the Route from Vienna to
Trieste.
\ Ehrenhauuen
Lebring
Kahlsdorf
Gratz — See, under Germany, the
Route from Vienna to Trieste*
Pegau
Rettehtein
Brucko^tMtf ilftiAr^Inn, VAutruche^
Moerzhofen
Kriegiach
Moerzuschlag
\ Schoitwein
I Neukirchen
Neustadt — Inn, Le Lion d*or,
Neudorf
Vienna
Enzersdorf
8. VeU
Friesach
tfettmarkt
Vnamarkt
Judenberg
Knitte'field
Graiibath
Leobcn
Bruck
$9$
APPlSNmXs
fCh* Vli
Ma/ebem
Hoffabrunn—Inn^ Le Cerfi
Jezeitdorf
Znaim
Frcyn^ndorf
Budweis — Inn, Le Cerf,
ScAel/etau
Stannem
I^lau
Sleeken
Teuttchbrodt
Steinsdorf
Jenikau
Czaslau ^
Koiin
Planian
Bd/im-brod — Inn, The Post-house,
Balckowitz
Prague
2 Strzedeiuk
2 Schian
2 Teinetz
2 Laun
2 Mernehowitx
2 Topiitz
2 Ormema
2 Peterswaid
2| Zehist
2} Dresden
ij Meissen
Ij Stauchitz
1} fVermsdorff
1 ff^rtee» — Inn, X« Croix noir.
IJ Leipzig — See, undjer Germany,
the Route from Hmnburgh to
Leipsic.
3 J iMndsbera — Inn, L*0ur8»
2 Cdthen
H J^a/Ae— Inn, VEtaile,
IJ Magdeburgh — Inn, La Cour de
Prusse, t
2 BurgstcU
2 Stendal
\\ Osterhurgh
1 Arendsee
\\ Lenzen
21 Lubten
l| Boitzenburg
2 Esckeburg
\\ Hamburg — Inns,
■ Peiersbourgj &c.
141 1 posts.
X^ ni/e de
ROUTE FROM DRESDEN, TEfROUGH
BERLIN TO HAMBURGH.
3 Meissen
1^ Ktappendorf
2 Oschatz
4J Torgau
8J Prefiche
3 mtt^emherg
2 Kropstadt — Travellel^ (as alreadv
mentioned) should go from
Kropstadt through Juttel-bock
to TreuenbritSBcn.
2f Treuenltritzen
2\ Beiitz
2| Potsdam — Though the hbrses are
changed between I^otsdam and
Berlin, the four posts are paid
for at once.
4 Betiin
1| Boelzo
2 Eekrbeliin
2 K^itz
IJ Kieezke
1 Perleberg
1 J Lenzen — This Town is charmingly
situated. A Ferry over the Elbe.
2i Lubthen
Ij Boitzenburg
2 Esckenbttrg
\\ Hamburg
47J posts.
ROUTE FROM FLORENCE, THROUGH
MANTUA, AND Br THE TYROL,
TO AUGSBUROR AND WURTZ-
BUROH.
9 Bologna — See the last Houte.
\\ Samoggia ' ■
l| Modena
li Carpi
1 Novi
li *5. Benedetto
IJ 3Iantna— This City, which con-
tains above 24,000 inhabitants,
is watered by the Mincio, an-
ciently Mincing ; and, being
surrounded with inundations
occasioned by that river, is
ver}" unwholesome during sum-
mer. The Cathedral here was
built after the design of Giulio
Romano, who painted its Ceil-
ing and Tribuna ; and has like-
wise enriched Mantua with
more of his worits. Not far
hence stands the Village of
Pietole, also called Andes^ the
birth-place of Virgil. The
principal inn at Mantna is La
Pasta.
I Roverbella
II yUlafranca
\\ Verona
l| Folami
1 Peri
It ALT.]
TRENT— iNgPRtrCK, ^c.
S27
I ffal/a — Inn La Corona.
1 \ Roreredo — This Town was ancient-
ly called Rohoretum: its prin-
cipal inns are La Jiosa and La
Corona,
1 Caiiani
1^ Trent — From Verona hither the
road >j11ows the course of the
Adige. Trent, anciently called
Tridentum, is placed in a de-
lightful vaJley, at the base of
the Alps, between Italy and
Germany. Its Cathedral, a
Gothic edifice, contains an ex-
cellent Organ ; and beyond the
Gate of S. Lorenzo is a fine
Bridge thrown over the Adige.
The principal inn here is UAigle
d*or,
1 Lavis
1 J Salurn — Inn, La Couronne
1 Egna ,
1 Brandzol
1 Botzen — Inns, The Post-house^
and La Scala, The country
between Botzen and Brixen is
lovely.
1 Deutschen
I Kollman
I I Brixen — The Cathedral here con-
tains good pictures. Inns, La
Croix and L* Elephant,
\ Ober-Mittenwald
1 Sterzingen — The Post-house is a
good Inn.
1 Brenner — The Post-house is a
good Inn. From Sterzingen to
Brenner a steep ascent, but an
excellent road. The Brenner is
a chain of very lofty mountains,
similar to the Alps of Switzer-
land.
1 Steinach
I Schonberg — The Inn here is good.
1 Insprtick — This City, the Capital
of the Tyrol, and reputed to
contain 10,000 inhabitants, is
place<jLiu a romantic valley wa-
tered by the river Inn, anciently
the JEnus, The Mausoleum
erected here to record in Bassi-
rilievi the principal incidents of
the life of Maximilian, merits
notice. Le Soleil d'or is a good
Inn ; and VAigle is tolerably
good.
1 Zirl — Few scenes can vie in sub-
- So little care is now taken of the Simplon-
road, that Travellers should neither attempt
leaving nor entering Italy, by this route
liraity with the Passage of the
■ Zirl.
\ Platten
I Ober-Miemingen
IJ Nazareth — Inn, The Post-house,
1 Lermos — Inn, Le Lion d'or,
1 \ Reifo — Inn, The Post'house.
1 Futssen
f Jtosshaupten
1|- Schongau
1 Hohenwart
U Lechfeld
\\ Auffsbui-g — Principal Inns, The
Three Moors, and The White
Lamb. See, under Germany,
the Route from Frankfort to
Augaburgh,
1^ Meidengen
1 Donawert
1^ Nordlingen
IJ Dunkelsbuhl
1 Creilsheim
\\ Blaufelden
1| Mergentheim
1 Bischofsheim
1^ "Wurtzburg — Principal inn. La
Cour de Bavi^re, See, under
Germant, the Route from Vi-
enna to Ostend.
08| posts.
The road through the Tyrol, from
Trent to Inspruck, was once excel-
lent ; and is still good ; though it has
been, of late years, injured by the
heavy cannon and artillery waggons
which have passed over it. The
views in this country are picturesque,
beautiful, and sublime: and where
the road quits the plains of Italy to
ascend the Rhoetian Alps, are two
gigantic and extraoidinary rocks,
which seem to have be^n severed by
the hand of Nature for the purpose of
aifording a passage to the Adige ;
whose graceful sinuosities embellish
every scene in which they present
themselves.
ROUTE, EN VOTTTTRIER, DURING
SUMMER, FROM ROME, THROUGH
FLORENCE AND MILAN, BY THE
8IMPL0N, TO GENEVA; AND OVER
THE JURA ALPS TO POLIONT,
DIJON, MELUN, PARIS, AND BOU-
LOGNE •.
First day . Posts 4^ Bticcano
and Ronciglione,
sooner in spring than June, nor later in autumn
than OctoDer. -«-^
928
APPENDIX,
[Ch. VI.
Second day • Posts 6^ Viterho
and Sari'Lorenzo nuovo* •
Third day . * Posts 6^ Madico-
fani and San^Quirico.
At Acquapendente, the next post
to S. Lorenzo nuovo, Travel-
lers are obliged to shew their
passports, and to pay one paul
per passport at the Police-
Office there, as already men-
tioned. At the Custom-house
on Radicofani, Travellers usu-
ally pay from three to six pauls,
according to the number of
their trunks, for having them
plumbed, and thus secured
from examination in the Tus-
can State.
Fourth day. . Posts 2^ Monta-
rani and Siena.
If luggage be not plumbed it is
examined on going into Siena,
by the Roman Gate.
Fifth day . Posts 5 Barbarino
and Florence.
On entering the latter City, Tra-
vellers usually give a few pauls
to the Custom-house Officers.
The Aquila Nera is the inn
usually resorted to by Vettu*
rini.
Sixth day . Posts ^ Le Mas^
chere and Pietramala,
Seventh day . Posts 4J PoggioH
and Bologna.
Eighth day . Posts 5 Modena
and Marsaglia.
Ninth day . Posts 4 Parma and
San-Donino.
Tenth day . Posts 4^ Piacenza
and Casal'Pttsterlengo.
Beyond Piacenza, on the opposite
side of the Po, is a Custom-
house where trunks, and even
the inside of carriages imdergo
a strict examination ; but where
nothing appears to be consi-
dered as contraband, except
silks, and other wearing appa-
rel not made up. It is advisa-
ble to have luggage plumbed
here.
Eleventh day . Posts 4^ Meleg-
nano and Milan.
Twelfth day . Posts 4f Caseina
and SestO'Calende.
Thirteenth day . Posts 7 Fariolo
and Fogogna,
Travellers (if the weather be fa*
vourable) nsually send their
carriages empty from Sesto to
Fariolo, going themselves in
the Steam-packet, or hiring, at
Sesto, a boat, which costs a
Napoleon, buonamano to the
Boatmen inclusive; and pro-
ceeds first to Arona, next to
the Borromean Islands, and
then to Fariolo.
Fourteenth day . Posts 6^ Bomo
d- Ossola and Simplon.
Fifteenth day . Posts 6 Brigg.
Sixteenth day . Posts 8^ Tourte-
magne and Sion.
Seventeenth day Posts 6| Martigng
and S. Maurice.
Eighteenth day . Posts 8^ S. Gin-
gouph and Thonon.
Nineteenth day . Posts 4^ Geneva,
Twentieth day . jPosts 7^ Gex and
Morez.
Travellers are obliged to have
their passports signed at Gex :
and at the French Custom-
house between Gex and Morez
trunks are completely unpacked
and rigorously examined; as
likewise are the insides of car-
riages : nothing, however, seems
to be considered as contraband
by the searchers here, except
wearing apparel, not made up,
Roman pearls, and Geneva
watches and trinkets for sale.
At I^iorez trunks, ^c. are again
examined.
Twenty-first day Posts 7 Champag^
nole and Poligny,
On arriving at Poligny Travellers
are obliged to deliver up their
passports at the Sous-Prefec-
ture ; whence they are for-
warded to Paris: new pass-
ports (the expense of which
is fifty sous each) are substi-
tuted for those left at the Sous-
Prefecture.
Twenty-second day Posti^f Mmt-
sous Vaudrey and Auxonne,
Twenty-third day Posts 6^ Dijon
and Pont'de-Pang.
Twenty-fourth day Posts 7i Vitteaux
and Rouvrag.
Twenty-fifth day Posts 8i Lucg-le-
Bois and Auxerre.
Twenty. sixth day Posts 7^ Joignp
and Sens.
Twenty-seventh day Posts 8 Monte^
ITAIV-I
ROUTES, ^c.
6^
reau and Melun, Montereau
is a large Town, watered by the
Yonne and Seine ; and the hill
above the Town commands a
fine view of those rivers.
Twenty-eighth day. Posts 5^ Charen-
ton and Paris.
The road from Fossard, through
Melun, to Paris, contains less
pavement than that through
Fontainbleau ; but is more hilly,
and not so pleasant. The mode
of proceeding, with respect to
passports at Paris, has been
already mentioned.
Twenty-ninth day. Posts 8^ Beau^
mont and Beawvais,
Thirtieth day . . 7| Granvil-
' Hers and Airaines,
Thirty-first day . Posts 7i I^ouvion
and MontreuiU
Thirty-second day Posts 4 1 Boulogne.
It has been already mentioned,
that the passage from Boulogne
to Dover is, generally speaking,
accomplished in less time than
from Calais to Dover : but the
Boulogne Steam-packets do not
go to London.
The Commissaries, at the Bou-
logne Hotels, undertake to em-
bark carriages and luggage,
and pay for the permit, ^e.
which altogether amounts to
about forty francs, besides ten
francs for the Commissary.
The Commissary belonging to the
London Hotel at Dover charges
ten and sixpence for getting an
English carriage, with the lug-
gage belonging to it, out of the
packet, and then clearing them
at the Custom-house : but Bri-
tish Travellers, who design
landing at Dover, should be
careful not to bring with them
a single article which pays duty,
if they would wish to avoid
detention, fatigue, and needless
expense.
The Voiturin was Balzani, Padrone
di Velture at Rome; who charged,
for conveying a landaulet drawn by
three strong horses, and two meals a
day, with four good bed-rooms, every
night, for two Masters and two Ser-
vants, an hundred Louis-d^ors, buona^
mano inclusive : he defraying the ex-
pense of barriers and toU-bridges ; and
likewise furnishing extra-horses when-
ever needful, and paying the tax levied
in France upon foreign Voiturins *.
ROUTE, EK VOITURIER, FROM FLORENCE TO VENICE, MILAN, TURIN,
AND OVER MONT-CENIS TO P.ONT-DE-BEAUVOISIN, DURING THE SUM-
MER OF 1822, WITH AN ENGLISH LANDAULET, DRAWN BY THREE
HORSES.
Hours. Days. Inns.
Le Maschere 3}
Pietramala 44 Ist A single house,
Pogiole b\ (Not far beyond Pietramala is the
Barrier where luggage may be
plumbed for Venice.)
Bologna 3} 2d S. Marco,
Jl Te 2J A single house.
Ferrara 2j 3d I tre Mori.
Rovigo 7 ••'••• La Posta.
Monselice 3^ 4th La Posta.
Dolo 5 La Campanoj
Mestr^ 4^ 6th La Campana.
Venice 2^ 6th Gran^Bretagna,
Padua 6i Stella d*ora.
Vicenza 4j 7th I due Rode.
« The mogt profitable money Travellers can Rome and Genoa ; where they pass for five
take from Rome to defray the expense of this lire and six soldi of that town, but not of the
journey is Louis-d'ors and Napoleons ; there Sardinian kingdom in general. Twenty soldi
being in general no agio upon gold at Rome, of Genoa make one lira of Genoa ; twenty-four
But If there be an agio, the nest plan is to take are reguired to make tJie Sardinian lira. Spa-
Spanish dollars, and change them into Napo- nish dollars may usually be exchanged for
leons at Florence. Spanish dollars are usually nearly their full value at Paris; but not upon
current for nearly their full value betweea the road betwem that city and Genoa.
2 u
S90
APPJBNDIX.
iCh. VI.
HouH. Days.
Villa Nuwa 4
Verona 3f 8th
Pesehiera 8
Ponte S. Marco 3§ 9th
Breseia 2
Antignate 4^ 10th
GorgonMola .4}
Milan 2 11th
Magenta 3}
Novara. 34 12th
VerceUi 3^
CigUano 6 13th
Chivasso 2^
Torino 3^ 14th
S, Ambrogio 4
Su»a* b\ 16th
Lans-Je-bourg 8
Modane 2^ 16th
S»Jean de Maurienne 3^
Aiguebelle 6 17th
Chavanne 4
Chambery 2 18th
Eschelles 4^
P<mi*€le'Beauvoisin ,,, 2^ • •••• 19th
The Inns marked thus 4-,
A single heuse 4^
/ du€ Torri,
Inn bad.
La Paata^ and exiravagantlg dear.
I due Torri.
II Pozzo,
Albergo grande al Ponte •{*, extrava-
gantly dear.
Gorgonzola is famous for excellent
cheese, called Stracchini.
Gran-Bretagna.
Albergo grande.
I tre Re.
I tre Re.
La Corona groua.
I due Buovi Rossi.
A single hotuep{*.
La Poste.
Le tre Corone.
are unfit for sleeping places.
ROUTE, EN VOITURIER, FROM KATLES TO ROME, SIENA, FLORENCE,
LUCCA, GENOA, TURIN, AND BY THE MONT-CENIS TO PONT-DE-
BEAUVOISIN, PARIS, AND CALAIS, DURING THE SPRING OF 1827, WITH
AN ENGLISH LANDAULET DRAWN BIT FOUR HORSES •[-.
If Travellers, instead of going by about twenty miles ; and make this
way of Florence, turn off at Poggi- by far the shortest road from Naples
bonzi, passing through Cammiano, La to Calais, that by the Simplon ex-
Scala and Pisa, to Luoca, they saVe eepted.
Days. Roman miles.
1st. Capua 16 Road tolerably smooth. Inn, the Post-house,
and cleaner than it used to he.*\*
S. Agata 16 Road excellent. Inn , the Post-h ouse.
2nd. Mola 17 R oad excellent . Inn , the Cicerone.
Terracina 24 Road excellent. Inn improved.
3rd. Pontine Marshes. 26 Road excellent. Inn opposite the Braschi
Villa. 4-
Velletri 14 Road excellent. Inn, Albergo Nuovo, Piazza
del Duomo.
4th. Albano 11 Road from Oenzano to Albano in bad con-
dition. Inn, L^Europa. *
Rome 16 Road excellent.
5th. Monierosi 24 Road excellent. Inn, close to the Lake,
Ronciglione 10 Road excellent. Inn, II Leone ^oro.
6th. Montfifiaacone 27 Road excellent. Inn, outside of the Town.
Acgvapendente ... 21 Road excellent. Inn, the Post-house.
• Balnni's riven take post-hones fiom Susa to the Italian Barrier,
t Tbe bad Inaa aw marked with a cxoa.
rrALT.l
PASSAGB OF THB BRACCO.
Ml
!
I>aart. Roman milet.
7tii. La Seala 12 j^ad exc^ent, the bed of the torrent excepted.
Inn^ a Hngk'-house.
Buoneomo€mi9..,»n, 16 Road eatcelknt. Inn, Le Cheval Anglais.
8th. Siena 16 Road exoellent . Inn, VAigle noir,
Poggibimxi 16 Road excellent. Inn, Ahergo della Corona.
9th. Florence 24 Road excellent.
10th. Pi9ti^a 20 Road good. Inn, II Sole.
lAicca 2fi Road good. Inn, La Croce di Malta.
11 th. . Massa 25 Road good. Inn, Hotel des quatre Nations,
12th. SaneanA 14 First seren miles a narrow, rough, and, in wet
weather, a swampy road ; which may be
avoided by going through Carrara. Inn,
Albergo delta Lunigiana,
Spexia I3i At a short distance beyond Sarzana, Travellers
ford the Magra during summer, and pass it
in a ferry during winter. Road good, but
it crosses the beds of two small torrents.
Inn at Spezia, V Hotel d!* Europe,
13th. Borgkelio 14 A high hill beyond Spezia ; after passing which
the road descends to the side of the Slagra :
a gallery is constructing to avoid that river |
but the present road is rough for a mile and
ahalfnearBorghetto. Inn there, L* Hotel de
Londres, The Passage of a part of the
Apennine, called the Bracco, commences at
Borghetto, and terminates at Sestri.
14th. Seslri 20 Inns, Hotel de la belle Europe and IlPonie-^
former best* From Borghetto to Matta*
rana is an ascent of eight miles ; the incli-
nation of the road being about the same as
that of the Simplon ; but the width is not so
great, a circumstance much to be regretted ;
as this road lies at the brink of precipices,
and is not sufficiently guarded by parapet
walls. Mattarana contains a small Inn,
where Travellers, in case of necessity, might
sleep. Hence the ascent continues for four
miles ; the road being cut in the side of a
very lofty mountain, . composed of white,
yellow, and green marble, and crowned with
beautiful grey granite. This part of the
passage, being unsheltered, would, in stormy
weather, be dangerous. The descent to
Sestri is in length about eight miles ; and
with regard to smoothness and hardness, the
whole road from Borghetto to Sestri is per-
fection.
15th. Routa 15 Inn, Gran^Bretagna, a small breakfasting.
place. From Sestri the road lies on the sea-
shore at far as Chiavari, where it begins to
' ascend another branch of the Apennine, and
is again cut through marble rocks at the
brink of a precipice which overhangs the
sea. About midway between Sestri and
Routa it passes through two Grottoes delved
!n a rock of hard yellow marble, and lined
with masonry ; which destroys the beauty of
the work* Near these Grottoes there is
2 M 2
APPJSNDIX.
lCh.VI.
592
sad want of parapet-walls. On comiog to
Routa, the road passes through another
Grotto, the length. of which is very con-
siderable ; but a lining of masonry hides the
superb marble in which it is formed.
Genoa 15 The goodness of the road between Sestri and
Ghiayari, and thence to Genoa, cannot be
exceeded even in Italy ; where fine roads are
now almost universal.
16th. RoHca 18 Inn, L^Europa, Road excellent, it passes for
five miles through a flat country, and then
ascends a lofty mountain of the Apennine,
not exposed to every blast of wind, like the
old road over the Bocchetta ; but securely
sheltered throughout the whole ^Passage,
which terminates at Ronca.
Nuvi 20 hm, L^Jlotel cT Europe. The road, which is
flat and good, passes through a lovely little
valley almost drcuhur, and embellished by a
waterfalL
1 'Jih, Alessandria 12 Inns, Grande Albergo d" Italia, Locanda Reale.
Between Novi and Alessandria the Bridge
over the Bormeda is broken ; and a Bridge
of Boats substituted in its stead ; but this
Bridge, after floods,' is not always passable.
Road good.
jiMti 18 Inn, Jl Leone d*oro. Road good.
18th. Poerino ..., 15 Inn, UAngelo. From Asti hither there is a
gi^ntle descent alniost the whole way. Road
good.
Turin 12 Road excellent.
19th. S. Ambrogio \2\t Inn, La Vigna. Road excellent.
Suea 1 10 Inn, La Posiq. Road in want of trifling re-
pairs.
20th. Ltmneekhourg ... 20 Iiui, Hotel Royal. Road excellent to the first
Fost>house. Hours, in ascending, two and a
half. Near the Valley embellished with a
pretty miniature Lake, an Avalanche seems
to have fallen recently ; the trees and fences
being broken by immense masses of snow ;
but the road remains uninjured. Hours, in
ascending from the first Post-house to La
Grande Croix, about two and a half. Road
excellent, and thus far free from snow.
From Xia Grande Croix to Lanneslebourg,
some snow in the road, and an immense
quantity on each side. Time employed in
going, two hours and fifty minutes. Beyond
the Post-house for a considerable distance,
the road on the 16th of May was a sheet of
ice bordered with walls of snow twenty feet
high; and the Lake of Mont-Cenis was
completely frozen.
J^odane 14 Inn, Le Lion d'or. The road from I^nnes-
lebourg to Modane suffered by the last in-
clement winter : one of the Galleries gave
way; and considerable quantities of earth
fell from the heights above it. These mis-
chiefs, however, are repaii-ed.
Italy.] ROUTES, &c. 633
Da}B Roman ntteia
31.t. &J^deJlfau.} Inn,LaPo,U. Road excellent.
rtenne ) '
Aiguebetle 16 Inxiy L^ Hotel de TUnion, Road excellent. •
22d. Montmellian 14 Inn^ La Po8tef\». Road excellent.
Chambery 10 Inn, Hotel du petit Paris, Road excellent.
23d. Pont de Be<mvoi-\nA Inns^ La Poste — V Hotel de Savoie. Road ex-
Im Tour du Pin,,, 16 Inn, Hotel ChoUit, 4« Road requires some tri-
fling repairs.
24tli. La FerptUiere 18 Jntiy Le Chapeau rouge. Road tolerable.
Lyon* 18 Inn^ Hotel du Pare, Road tolerable.
2dth. S, George* 24 Inn^ Hotel du Chine verd. Road tolerable.
Macon 20 Inn, Hotel d* Europe. Road in bad condition.
26tli. Toumus 18 Inn, £r& Sauvage. Road bad .
Chalon8.^8ur'Saone 16 Inn, Les trois Faisans, Road better than near
Maconi
27tli. Rochepot 18 Inn^ Le Cl^vreuil, Road paved for two miles
beyond Chalons, and afterwards tolerable.
^ Emay 20 Inn^ La Croix blanche. Road from Rochepot
to £may extremely bad.
28th. Saulieu 18 Inn, Le Dauphin, Road bad.
Rouvray 14 Inn^ La Poste, Road very bad, especially in
the Town of Saulieu.
29ith. ' Fermanton 27 Inn, Hotel de Notre Dame. Road very bad.
Auxerre 16 Inn^ Hotel de Beaune. Road tolerable.
30th. Joigny 19 Inn, Hotel des cinq Mineurs. Road tolerable ;
some part of it paved.
Sens 18 Inn , VEcu, Road heavy, and ill kept.
31 St. Montereau 23 Inn, Le grand Monarque, Some part of the
road is paved, the rest extremely heavy and
ill kept.
Melun 23 Inn, L* Hotel de France. Near Melun the
road is paved, and in bad condition.
32d. Montgeron 18 Inn, La Ville de Lyon, Road indifferent.
Pai'is 15 Road tolerably good.
33d. Beaumont 20 Inn, Le Paon, Road paved, and well kept.
Noailles 16 Inn , Hotel de Calais, Road tolerably good.
34th. MarseiUe.sur.r-)^^ Inn, VEpie Royale. Road tolerably good.
Poix 16 Inn, Le Berceaud* or, Roadgood.
35th. Abbeville 26 Inn, La Tete de Bceuf, Roadgood.
Bemay 13 Inn, La Poste, Roadgood.
36th. Samef 2^ Inn, Xa TUe de Bcsuf. Road good, except
the pavement and hill in the Town of
Montreuil.
Boulogne 11 Inn, Ancien Hotel d'Angletkrre. Roadgood.
37th. Calais 22 Inn, Roberts's Hotel. Roadgood.
Number of Roman miles 1236
Number of English miles
from Calais to London
by the Steam-packet .. 126
It is difficult to ascertain, with any the length of Italian posts varMi ma-
degree of precision, the distance from terially : added to which, there are
Naples to Calais ; because French posts no milestones placed regularly in any
are not all of the same length ; and part of the Route : and consequently
• A steam-packet runs daily between Lyon and Cbalonst
1184 APPBNDIX, IduYII.
the foregoing calculations with respect of heavf n&n) is given with aocuraflf 5
to the numher of Roman imles from and the be«t Inns are recapitulated,
one stage to another may sometimes for the convenience of Persons who
be*ermmeoaB9 hut the state of the irvfek en voitwner*
roads in May 192^ (after a long series
Chapteb VII,
AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS.
PMM KJ tta Mo Me y of the Impatel Tefrltories— Banker^ accounts— Vienna bank-bDIs— Price of
Post-hoTBes, kct in the Austrian-Germaa Dominions— Most profitable Money Travellen
can take from Tuacany to Genaaay-^^BersoDa going ftom. Tuscany to VenleS ibould Iwvt
their baggage plumbed at Florence— Fees to Custam-hou3e Officers at Bologna and Venice—
Price of Apartneots at Hotels in Veniee— of Dinner-rof a Gondola^Wages of a Valet-de-
Place—ArucleB best isorth inuehAB&ng-*<-Anri¥al and Departure of Iied£r4;ottfiei»>-Milan—
-Lodging-houses— Hotels— Job-carriASes— Hackney-coaches— Valets-de-place — Boxes at La
Scala— Arrival and Dej^urtuie of Letter-Couriers— Vienna— Bound w^ht—Braccio—Cbaige*
at Hotels— Price of dinner at a table drH6te<-<)f dinner at a RestmuateurV-Wagcs of a
Videt^e-Place^Price per night of one bed-rocnn at an iq»— Hackney-coadte^— Sedian-chain
— Medical Men — Shop^Articles best worth purchasing, and their prices — Expense of going
into the Parterre at the Opera-house— t^sual price of a box— Travellers advised to go post
ftom Viemia to DretMHsH^rrival and departure of Lettar-Cnnricro ■ .Dtttgepce— Prague—
Artides best worth (mrchasing— Wages of a Valetpd«'pla(»^Price of a Job-csnriag^>-Hack-
ney-cottches.
No Foreigner is allowed to enter the than equal to two good ones. The
dominions of the Emperor of Austria, good florin is worth from twenty-foav
without e^hihiting a passport, signed to twenty-five pence halfpenny Eng-
hy an Austrian Ambassador*. lish ; and hence it will be seen that
the paper florin is worth ifhavkt nine-
MONET OF THE iSfP^EiAL pence half -penny English. The good
TSERiTOiiiES* florin contains sixty krCutssers ; and
the depreciated florin contains also
Souverain, florins 6|. sixty kreXktzers,. equally depreciated*
Ducat, florins 4}. In fact the copper money has received
Crown, or piece of two florins and a second depreciation ; so that a piece
sixteen kr€^t3!iws« ' marked ^^ 30 kreutzers," passes only
Piece of kreutzers 34. for six paper kretitzers : but there has
Ditto of kr^tsers 18. lately bee^ A new copper ooinage^
Ditto of krchitzers 1 7* which is current ; and a plated coinage
Piece of one paul, or kr^tzen 12« of three-kreutzer pieces, with a haie
Ditto of kreutzers 10. silver coinage of Inoney, worth from
Piece of kr^tzers 5. two to six kreutzers. There are Uke-
Ditto of groschen 1 , or kreutzers 3. wise paper notes of one, two, Ave, ten,
Ditto of kreutzers U twenty, &c. depreciated florins. Tlie
Bankers* accounts are kept through- silver coin, most In Use is the zwan-
out Bohemia, Moravia, and Austria ziger, circulated and known by that-
Proper, in paper florins and kreutzers. name even in the Lombardo-Venetiaa
Care should be taken to distinguish States ; where it passes for twenty
between the good silver florin, and the kreutzers. The zwanziger circulates
paper florin, which, at the present also in Bavaria, where it passes for
moment, 1827» »8 so much depreciated twenty-four Bavarian kreutzers ; and
that five paper florins are not more the Austrian florin in Bavarta passes
• Persons who travel with their own carriage have their axletrees precisely the same length
in those parts of Germany where the roads are with those of po6t<aiiriages belonging to the
rough, and the ruts dssEiftiripould l»QireCMt» coiwtxf.
AirrrmxAH Dohikions.] VENICE. ASS
for one Bavarian florin and twelve purchase, of the money-cliaiigerg at
krcfutzers. • Florence, souverains and imperial fle*
quins sufficient for the imperial I>omi«>
FBICE OF POST-HORSES IN THE nions in Germany.
AUSTRIAN-OERMAK DOMINIONS. From the Commencement ofSaxony
to the town of Hamburgh, Napoleons
The price of draught-horses throngh- ^^^ ^^^^ mo&t profitable money for Tra«
out the Austrian Dominions, ai\d other sellers.
parts of Germany, is fixed in the dif- Persons going from Tuscany to
ferent monies of the respective coun- Venice, should have their baggage
tries. plumbed at Florence ; which operation
In Austria, Bohemia, and Moravia, usually costs about five pauls.
the charge for each draught>horse is, -^^ ^^^ fS^^^ o^ Bologna the Custom,
at the present moment, one paper house Officers expect a present of five
florin per German mile, or two paper pauls per carriage ; and at Ferrara, on
florins per post. quitting the town. Travellers are er«
A Geiman post usually is about two P^ted tb make the same present.
German miles ; and one German mile
• ia about four English miles and a half. VENICE.
A (German PostiHion, like those of ^^ , . . ,
France and Italy, expects more than . ^^^ apartments, contaimng from
his legal claim ; and seems to think he ^'"^ ^"^ ^}«^\ ^^^^ ^^S?/"^ ^^""^X. ^
has a right ti as much per post for Procured, either at The Gran-Bre-
himself, as Post-mastei-s charge per *^"^,' **^ ^^^ ^V^P^ S^ ^Tr ^^'^^ *
horse : indeed, if he drive three horses, ^apo^eon per night. Breakfast, for
he expects to receive, per post, one ^^s^ers, costs two francs a head—
third more than the price for each ^^'^^er, /^ francs-and the charge,
horse ; and if he receive at the rate of P^'* „^^^' ^^^ servants, by the day, is
one florin and a half per post, for each ^^^/^^"cs.
of his horses, he will drive neariy as r ^ gondola, with only one gondo-
fast as an English postillion. ^'^^ . "^^^t ^^!^^ ^'"^J?^ P«^ ^V 5 ^^
The road.tL costs from ten to thirty «V*t^"^«' '"^ '^^ ^abm, four persons 5
kreutzers per poat. Thus the expense ^v. ""f ^ TT- ^^«^^^^«^. ^'"T T^}
of travelling post in the Austrian- ^^^se boats being convemently fitted
German dominions is, at the present J^P ^Uh awnmgs, glasses, and Vene-
moment, in English money, about tijin -blinds : they axe likewise furnish.:
seven.pence, orseven-pence halfpenny, ^^^}^^ handsome lanterns at night. .
per English mile. The roads, genel , ^^f ""^^ «^^ * Valei-de-plaee is
rally speaking, are good. The price f^'om four to five francs a day,
of post-horses varies from time to The articles best worth purchasing
llj^Q at Venice are, gold chains, seals, &c.,
The Post-master at Vienna cannot '^^^ ^^ '^^^t?' according to the price
furnish Post-horses without an Order °^ gold-necklaces, and other persona^
from the Chancery. ornaments, made with very small
A carriage conveying but two per- ^' «/ ^^^^S?"' *^^""»**-7^" ^^i«
sons, and l^t one trunk, is aUowed to rf"^^"" ^^«« ~ ^^^colate ^ books,
travel with two horses only ; and car- ^ maps.
riages with four inside places, and „ „ ,
two tn^nks; are seldom compelled to ^^^^^al and departure of let,
travel with more than four horses. ^^^ couriers.
Persons who intend travelling from Sunday, at eight in the mortUnff,
Rome through Florence to Venice, arrives the Courier from Padua — at
and thence to Vienna, or any other ^^narrivelettersfrom Vienna, Trieste,
part of Germany under Austrian go- &c. ; Milan, Verona, Mantua, Brescia,
vernment, should provide themselves^ Piedmont,Gen»a, Switzerland, France,
at Rome, with as many Napoleons as Spain, Great Britain, and the kingdom
they may he likely to want between of the Netherlands,
that city and the confines of Germany : Monday, at eight in the morning,
and they should also endeavour to arrive letters from Padua, Vk
536
APPJNDIX.
[Ch. VII.
&c.—- a/^M from Viennft — and at four
in the afternoon from Milan, Brescia,
Verona, France, Switzerland, Spain,
Great Britain, the kingdom of the
Netherlands, the Tyrol, Germany,
Ferrara, the Ecclesiastical State, the
kingdom of Naples, and the Dutchy
of Modena.
TuestUipy at eight in the mominff,
arrive letters from Padua, Vicenza,
&c., and at ten from Vienna, Milan,
Mantua, &c., and Tuscany.
Wednesday^ at eight in the morning^
arrive letters from Padua — and at ten
from Vienna, Trieste, Milan, Verona,
&C., Genoa, and Piedmont.
Thursday, at eight in tJie rfioming,
arrive letters from Padua, and Rovigo
— at ten from Vienna, Milan, Verona,
&c. ; France, Switzerland, Spain,
Great Britain, and the kingdom of the
Netherlands — and at four in the after-
noon, from Ferrara, the Ecclesiastical
State, Naples, and Modena.
Friday, at eight in the morning,
arrive letters from Padua — and at ten
from Vienna, Trieste, &c. ; Milan,
Alantua, &.C. ; Tuscany, the Tyrol,
and Germany.
Saturday, at eight in the morning,
arrive letters from Padua — and at ten
from Vienna, and Milan.
. Sunday, at three in the afternoon,
^©'letters for Vienna, Mestr^, Treviso,
&c. ; Trieste, Milan, Verona, Vicenza,
&c. — and at five in the afternoon for
Padua.
Monday, at three in the afternoon,
go letters for Milan, Padua, Vicenza,
Verona, &c. — and at six in the after-
noon for Vienna, and the intermediate
cities.
Tuesday, at noon, go letters for
Ferrara, the Ecclesiastical State,
Naples, and Modena — at three in the
afternoon for Vienna, and Milan —
and at six in the afternoon, for Padua.
Wednesday, at six in the afternoon,
go letters for Milan, Verona, Mantua,
Parma, Piacenza, Tuscany, Brescia,
Bergamo, Piedmont, Genoa, Switzer-
land, France, Spain, Portugal, Great
Britain, the kingdom of the Nether-
lands, the Tyrol, Hamburgh and Ger-
many, Vienna, Mestre, Treviso, &o» ;
Trieste, and Padua.
Thursday, at three in the afternoon,
go letters for Vienna, Milan, &c. — ^and
at six in the afternoon for Padua.
Friday, at noon, go letters' for
Padua, Ferrara, the Ecclesiastical
State, Naples, and Modena— «c^ three
in the afternoon for Milan, Vicenza,
Verona, &c. — and at six in the evening
for Vienna, Mestre, Treviso, &c., and
Trieste.
Saturday, at half -past eight in the '
evening, goletters for the Ecclesiastical
State, Naples, Milan, Verona, Mantua,
Parma, Piacenza, Tuscany, Brescia,
Bergamo, Piedmont, Genoa, Switzer-
land, France, Spain, Portugal, Great
Britain, the kingdom of the Nether-
lands, the Tyrol, Hamburgh, and
Germany; Padua, Treviso, Vienna,
and Trieste.
The Post-office is always open from
eight in the morning till five in the
afternoon ; and, on some days of the
week, till a later hour.
MILAN.*
Lodging-houses in this City are
numerous, and not very high priced.
Hotels are expensive. A job -carriage
usually costs from fifteen to sixteen
francs per day ; and the price of
Hackney-coaches is the same as at
Paris. A Valet'de -place, if hired for
a very short time, and expected to act
as a Cicerone, commonly demands five
francs per day: and the expense of a
good box, large enough to accom-
modate four persons, at La Scala, on
Sundays, seldom amounts to less than
from twenty-five to thirty francs, en-
trance-money inclusive ; which is one
franc and a half per head ; but, on
other days, a box may frequently be
hired for ten francs. The price per
head for admittance to the Parterre
is one franc and a half.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OF
LETTER-COURIERS.
Sunday, arrive letters from Swit-
zerland.
Monday, from Genoa, Great Bri-
tain, France, Spain, Portugal, Turin,
Venice, Geimany, and other parts oi
northern Europe-
Tuesday, from Naples, Rome, Tus-
cany, Switzerlai^d, S[C.
Wednesday, from Genoa, Great
Britain, ^c, as on Monday.
Friday, from Genoa, Great Britain,
4fo., as Oft Monday— and from^ Tus-
AUSTIBLIATK DoMiNioys.]
VIENNA.
637
cany, Rome, Naples, Venice, Ger-
many, other parts of northern Europe,
and Switzerland.
Saturday, from Switzerland, and
the kingdom of the Netherlands.
Sunday, at eleven in the morning^
go letters for Switzerland, and the
kingdom of the Netherlands.
Monday, at «i> in the afternoon^
for Venice, ^c. — at nine in iJie even-
ing for Genoa, Spain, ^c. — and at ten
for Turin, France, Great Britain, ^e,
Tuesday, at eleven in the morning^
for Switzerland.
Wednesday, at one in the afternoon,
for Switzerland, and the kingdom of
the Netherlands — at sia? in the after,
noon for Venice, Germany, and other
parts of northern Europe— at nine in
the evening for Florence, Rome, Na-
ples, Genoa, ^c — and at ten for Turin,
France, Great Britain, ^c, as on Hon-
day.
Thursday, for Switzerland.
Saturday, at nine in the evening, for
Genoa, ^c, as on 31onday — and at
ten for Venice, Germany, and other
parts of northern Europe; Florence,
Rome, Naples, Turin, France, Great
Britain, ^c, as on Wednesday.
. The Post-Office is opened, at nine
in the morning, every Monday, Tues-
day, and Wednesday — at eleven eveiy
Thursday — and at nine every Friday,
Saturday, and Sunday : and it is shut,
at six in the evening, every Monday —
at nine, every Tuesday — at ten, every
Wednesday and Saturday — at three,
every Thursday and Sunday— and at
nine, every Friday.
VIENNA.
The pound- weight at Vienna . is
eighteen ounces ; and the common
measure, called a braccio, is somewhat
longer than that of Florence.
The shops in this City are richly
furnished ; and the articles best worth
purchasing seem to be, eyder-down,
black lace, furs, household linen, Bo-
hemian kerseymere, and broad doth.
The usual price in the parterre at
the Opera-house Is one florin ; but,
upon extraordinary occasions, two.
A Valet-de-place usually expects
one florin per day.
The number of Fiacres is above six
hundred ; which are distributed in
various parts of the Town and Fau-
bourgs ; and remain on their respec-
tive stands from seven in the morning
till ten at night : they are good car-
riages ; and go into the country as far
as Neustadt, Presburg, ^c. if required.
There being no fixed fares for these
carriages, it is necessary that persons
who hire them should make a bargain
with the drivei*s previous to setting
out. Each Fiacre is numbered ; and
its master is under the control of a
Commissioner of the Police. Visits of
etiquette are not usually made in
Fiacres ; but in Voitures de Remise ;
of which there are three hundred, to
be hired per day, week, month, or
year. The price, per day, is six
florins ; and per month, an hundred
and fifty florins, besides a present to
the driver. Sedan-Chairs, amounting
to eighty, are numbered, and distri-
buted in various parts of the Town,
for the use of the public. The chair-
men wear a red iinifoim, and are for-
bidden to carry either the Sick or the
Dead. The fares are not fixed ; but
for what is called "a course^ the
usual price is one florin and thirty
kreutzers. The Chairmen are ame-
nable to the Police.
The General Post-office, situated at
the WoUzeile, No. 91.8, is open every
day from eight in the morning till
twelve ; and from half past two till
half past seven in the evening. Wed-
nesdays and Saturdays letters are re-
ceived till eight in the evening. Let-
ters for the Austrian States may be
franked or not, as the writer pleases :
letters for other countries must be
franked.
ARBIVAL AND DEPARTURE OF
LETTER-COURIERS.
Monday morning arrives the post
from Italy, Spain, France, and Great
Britain.
Tuesday morning from Saxony, ajid
the northern countries.
Thursday morning from Italy.
Saturday mortting from Saxony.
Monday afternoon at three o^clock,
goes the post to Italy.
Wednesday evening to Saxony and
the northern countries ; Spain, France,
and Great Britain.
Thursday evening to Italy.
Saturday evening to Spain, France,
and Great Britain,
638
APPENDED.
lOu y ra.
The pOtCfl of tlid Imperii^ German
Dominionfl arrive and depart daily.
Under the same roof with the Qe»
neral Poet'Offiee is that of the Short
Post, which conveys letters and small
packets to all parts of the City, and its
Suburbs, three times a day. Most of
the Tobaoonists and Lottery^fBee
Keepers receive letters for the Short
Post*
' A Diligence sets out for Preaburgh
at eight o'clock every morning ; ano-
ther, for Italy, at half past seven every
Monday morning; and another ioc
Prague and Dresden, at nine o'clock
every Tuesday morning* One place
in a Vietma-Diligenee ousts a ikirin
per station, and every Passenger is
allowed to carry fifty pounds weight
of baggage.
PRAGUE.
The articles best worth parehasing
here are, Silesia lawns, taUe-UneQi
Bohemian luttres, and other kinds of
glass.
The wages usually demanded by a
Valet-^'plaee h thirty.four kreiitzers
a day ; and the price of a job-carriage
two florins and thirty kreutzers a day*
There are good Hackney coaches in
this City.
Chapter VIII.
GERMANY.
Money of Saxony— Price of Post-horsea— Dresden — Pound-weight— Common measure— Price of
apartmento in the wincipal Hotels— Price of dinner at Hotels, and at the houses of Restau-
rateurs— Waives ora Vaiet4e-Plaoe— Price of job-carriages, Sedan-diairs» wine, and bottled
beer — Articles best worth purchasing — Arrival and Departure of Letter-Couriers— ExpeoK
of franleing letters for England— Diligence — Hamburgh — Money, Bankers' accounts, Sfc.-'
Pound- weight — Price per head for dinner at a table d'HOte — Price of Claret — Cambrkk the
article best worth puraiasiog— Price of Post-horses, fc, in the Dominions of Prussia, Hesse,
Brunswick, and Hanover — Roads in northern Giermany — Wienerwagens — Marktschifis-*
Private Vessels— Voyage from Frankfort on the Mein to Cologne— Ditto from Ratisbon to
Vieima— Route from Hamburgh to Leipsic — Population of Leipalc— Objects best worth
notice— Promenades— Prices at the German Theatre— Best Inns— Fairs— Prices at Inns-
Wages of a Valet-de-place— Job-carriages, and Hacks — Route from Leipsic to Dresden—
from LeipsAc through Gotha to Franknnt on the Mein — from Leipsic to Bmnswick— from
Brunswick to Hanover— from Hanover to Gottingen— from Leipsic to Dantzick— from
Frankfort on the Mein to Berlin— from Berlin to Amsterdam — ^from Frankfort on the Mein
to Augsburgh— fWym Augsbureh to Constance, Schaff hausen, and Basle— from Augsburgh to
Ratisbon— from Ratiabon to Bayreuth— from Bayreuth to Leipzic^-firom Ratisbon to Mu-
nich— from Ratisbon to Prague— and from Vienna through Ratisbon and Brussels to Ostoid
—Packets from Colchester to Ostend ; from Ostend to Harwich ; and from Ostend to Mar-
? [ate— Route from Frankfort on the Mein through Cassel to Munster— Voyage on the Rhioe
rom Mayence to Coblentz— Exciursion from Gottingen to Harz— German Baths— Carlsbad-
Expenses there — Pyrmont — Expenses there — Spa— Expenses ther^Route from Vienna to
Saltaburg— from Vienna to Venice— from Vienna to Carlsbad, through Egra and Zwod»-
ftom Hanover to Pyrmont— from Ham'burgh to Pyrmoiit— from Brussels through Aix-la-
ChapeUe and Li^e, to Spa— from Vienna to Baden— from Vienna to Presbuiyb— from
Teusch Altenburg to Belgrade— from Presburgh to Kascbau and Tokay— and from Vienna
to Trieste^— Pola, and its Antiquities.
MONEY OF SAXONY.
Thaler, worth 24 Gute GroscheUj
or . 30 Silrer Groschen, and equal to
about three English shillings ai^ two-
pence.
Piece marked " Emen 3 Thaler,"
equal to about one English shilling
and a penny.
Piece marked " Einen 6 Thaler,",
equal to about six.pence halfpenny.
Piece marked Einen 12 Thaler/'
equal to about three^pexkce farthix^.
Piece worth one Orosche.
Piece worth half a Grosehe.
Each Gute Grosdie (an imaginary,
coin) is estimated at something more
than three English halfpence; and
each silrer Grosehe is worth some-
thing more than fire farthings.
Bankers' accounts are kept both in
imaginary.and silver Groschen.
Prussian money passes current every
where in Dresden, except at the Post-
office.
axuiuinrv] DRESDEN-^HAMBUKGH, ^c. (m
PAiCE OF posT-HORsUffy 4:^, IK Hamborgb, Amsterdam^ Belgium^
SAXOVY. Hanover, Bruniwick, j*e.
For every draught-horse the charge ., Tv^s^y morning from Itidy, the
is ten groschen per mile ; and every Ayrol, bwitaerland, ^fc.
poetillion, driving three or four hwses, _ ^edne^p afternoon from Vienna,
has a right to ten groschen. Couriers, i^^j^e, ^c. », « ,
whether travelling in a carriage or on ^ f Attr*rf«^ a>Jte«ioon from Holland,
horsehack, pay twelve groschen a mile. ^e%mm, Hamburgh, ^-c. .
Two persons, if traveUing in their ^ ^»»««y fwomin^, at etght ^ clock^
owft carriage, are obliged to take three ^^ post goes to HMnburgh, with let^
horses ; but, if travelling in a Post- ters fwp Gr^t Bntam, 4^
master^i carriage, not more than two ^onrfay ^fi^rnooi^ at three o'cfeolf,,
horses. The charge for a Post-mas- *<> HoUand and Bel^um; and atsw,
tor's carriage is four groschen per to Prague, Viwina, 4-0. ; Venice, Italy
mile ; and the charges for greasing »» general, and Switaeriand.
wheds from three to four groschen. ^ Wednesday, at fMooy to Holland^
France, Deilmark, S[e»
Tki>vciT\vT^ /^««toy, ai onein the ^fiemeony to
DRESDEN. Prague, Vienna, 4;c.
The pound-weight of Dresden is Letters must be sait to the post
sixteen ounces; the aune, or common ^^^ hour, and parcels two hours, be-
measure, two feet ; aud the foot twelve *?** the Courier sets out. Iretteni for
inches. Great Bntam pay eight grosdien
The best apartments in the princi- •^•^ , , . ,
pal Hotels usually cost from four to , Wednesday mommg, at eight
five florins per day ; (one florin being » «lo«k, the Dibgence seU out for
equivalent to sixteen groschen) and ^^a»V^ ^"^^ Y*®"^ '*J^ Thursday
dinner, in these Hotels, is commonly ^*^™"*«f' ** *^® **™* ^^^^^ ^°^ ^^-
charged at a florin per head ; though l>*"^g*i»
Travellers may be tolerably well served HAMBURGH,
at twelve groschen. Restattrateters . 1 . , ,
give good dinners at ten groschen per , Accounts are kept in marks and
J j'^ akilliugs ; a mark being from aaxteen
The wages of a VtOet-de-plaee is ^^ eighteen-pence, English according
one florin^er day. *? *^ exchange ; and a skilhng the
A job-carriage, for the whole day, sixteenth of a mark. Conventi<Mi-
eosts about thrSe florins ; for the hiif ^^^^^rs do not pass for quite twoflonns
day, two florins and four groschen. ^' Hamburgh ; no money being cur-
TKie price of a Sedan-chair, in the ^«* there^hut that of Hamburgh and
eld town, is two groschen for going to -l^enmark.
any part of it ; and two for returning : f ^« pound-weight is sixteen ounces,
in kthe new Town, exactly double ; ^ Several of the Inns contam a Tabk^
and the chairmen charge one gi-osche f^?f^^ »' which the price, per head,
for every quarter of an hour, when ^^^ ^^'^"f » " ^^^ ^^^^« skilhngs to
they are kept waiting. two marks.
Wine of the country is usually ^^^'^^ '^ Sood and cheap; b«ng
cbiH^d at ten groschen per bottle ; ^^V ^^^ »* <^^« ^^r^* » ^«ttle.
and botded beer at something less than Almost every article of commere©
three groschen. »?ay ^ purchased at Hamburgh ; but,
The articles best worth purdiasing *??«g^ . ®*e™P* , ^""^^ , ^^ " ^^H*^*
in this City are blade and white lace, ^^"^^ J"^ S®^^^ "® ^^^^ cambnek
which may be bought of the Lace- excepted.
°^*^"' PRUSSIAN DOMINIONS.
AAKIVAI. AHD DEPABTURE OF MONEY OP PUUSSIA.
LETTER COirniERS. t> -i - ■,, -. 1. •
Fredenc-d or, stamped ae being 6
Sunday afternoon arrive letters from Thalers, but now equal to 5}.
Vienna, Prague, ^c; and likewise Double Frederic-d'or, stamped as
hmi QfOftt B]ribw% Fnnfie^ HoUaikd, b«Eig 10> Thalen^ but baw 9^gaal to
040 APPEN1>IX. [Ch/VIII.
114* There is, howerer, a loss upon indispensable: and if, moreover, it be
these gold coins, if they are carried heavily charged with baggage. Post-
out of Prussia. masters are authorized to put on eight
Thaler worth 24 Gute Groschen, or horses.
30 Silver Groschen, and equal to about The price of a Caleohe de Poate^
three English shillings. furnished by a Post-master, is six
.. Piece marked ^^ Einen 3 Thaler," groschen per station.-
equal to about one English shilling. Postillions are obliged to drive one
Piece marked " Einen 6 Thaler," German mile an hour on well-paved
equal to about six-pence. roads ; one mile in an hour and a
Piece marked '* Einen 12 Thaler," quarter on good roads not paved ;
equal to about three-pence* and one mile within an hour and a
. Each Gute Grosche (an ima^nary half where the road is sandy.
coin) is estimated at three English On quitting Berlin every Traveller
half-pence ; and each silver Groschen should have a Passport from Go-
is worth five farthings. vernment ; which, the Wagenmeiater
Bankers* accounts are kept both in commonly procures. Travellers
imaginary and silver Groschen. should likewise have their trunks
PRICE OF POST-HORSES.
plumbed.
HESSE.
West Prussia. The charge for
every draught-horse, per German mile. Persons who travel post pay ten
is twelve Silver Groschen and a half ; groschen per German mile for every
or ten Gute Groschen. The Wagen- draught-horse ; and for Couriera'
meister, or Superintendent of Post- horses twelve groschen. If the post
carriages, receives five Silver Groschen be from two miles and a half to three
per Post, or Station ; and postillions miles in distance, the postillion is
are entitled to six Silver Groschen per entitled to eight groschen, provided
mile, but usually receive from eight to he drive three or four horses ; and
ten. The Chaussee Geld, or road-tax, he is entitled to ten groschen, pro-
is variable. This charge, together vided there be six horses. If the
with that for post-horses and the length of the post be from one mile
Wagenmeister, is presented to Tra- and a half to two miles only, and the
vellers in a printed paper at every Postillion drive three or four horses.
Station. he is entitled to six groschen; and
East Prussia, The charge for each provided there be six horses, he is
draught-horse is ten Silver Groschen entitled to eight grosdien.
per mile. Other charges are the same The legal claim of the fVaffen^
as in West Prussia : and the Wagen- meister at each station is two gi*08-
meister being paid at eveiy Station, chen ; and the charge for greasing
Travellers may have their wheels wheels from three to four groschen.
greased, or not, as they please.
At Berlin one mile more than the BRUNSWICK
actual distance is charged, it being a
post-royal. Persons who travel post pay twelve
A light carriage, containing only groschen per German mile for every
two places, is allowed to travel with draught-horse.
only two horses, provided it convey A Berlin conveying six persons,
but two persons and one trunk* : if it servants inclusive, together with
convey three persons, they must take trunks not exceeding three quintals
three horses ; and caleches convey- in weight, is allowed to travel with
ing four persons must have four only four horses. A post-chai«e
horses. Every Berlin, or carriage with conveying four persons, servants in-
four inside places, must have four elusive, is allowed to travel with
horses; and, if it contain four persons, only three horses; and if it convey
five horses ; but, if it contain from but three, persons, it is allowed to
five to seven persons, six horses are travel with only two horses.
^ Post-soMtenaieooeasioiuaiy empowered to put thne haries if therebetwopaawogtfi} and
four, if there be three passengers.
Geb^icant.]
MAODEBURGH— LEIPSIC.
641
HANOVER.
Persons who travel post pay twelve
grodchen per German mile for every
draught-horse.
A postillion who drives tw"© or
three horses is entitled to six gros-
chen ; if he drive . four horses, his
claim is eight groschen ; and he is
entitled to sixteen groschen, provided
there be six horses: but, if a post
be uncommonly long, namely, from
four to five miles in distance, he is
entitled to seven groschen, provided
he drive two or three horses ; nine,
if he drive four horses ; and eighteen,
if there be six horses.
' .The Waffenmeister^s claim is from
three to six groschen per post ; and
the expense of greasing wheels, from
three to fonr groschen.
In Hanover, the old Louis passes
for only four crowns and sixteen
groschen in paying either the post,
or the tolls; but is current for five
crowns in paying for grease, Trink'
geld (drink-money), and expenses at
inns.
The roads in the north of Ger-
many are, generally speaking, bad ;
and the milange of territories is an
obstacle to their improvement:
morever, the distances from place
to place are not determined with
precision: and therefore Post-mas-
ters sometimes exact.
There is a kind of carriage, half
open, and containing four persons,
to which, if it be not incumbered
with much baggage. Post-masters
have no right to put more than two
horses, except in the Hanoverian
territories. This carriage is called
a Wienerwagen.
PRICE OP POST-HORSES IN
BAVARIA.
The charge, per post, for every
draught-horse, is one florin and fif-
teen kreutzers. A postillion, con-
ducting two horses only, is satisfied
with about one Bavarian florin (one
- A Coehe feau goes every Sunday from
Ratisbon, and arrives at Vienna in three deys,
or three and a half. The passage-money, lor
a gentleman or lady« is a ducat; and for a
servant* a convention-dollar.
t The Route from H«mbui^h through
Berlin, tQ Dreaden, is not mentioned under
shilling and nine-pence EiSglish) per
post : and in the Bavarian territories
there is no road-tax.
On entering and leaving Munich,
and likewise on entering and leaving
Augsburgh, Travellers pay one florin
and thirty kreutzers per post.
PRICE OF POST-HORSES IK THE
TYROL.
The charge, per post, for every
draught-horse, is one florin and twelve
kreutzers : but the Bavarian currency
is used ; so that, in fact, this charge
amounts to only one Austrian florin.
The postillions are satisfied with the
same remuneration as Travellers com-
monly give in Bavaria.
The noble rivers which intersect
Germany render travelling by water
practicable and pleasant ; there being
on many of these rivers Marktschiflre
(a sort of Coclie cTeau). which travel
regularly from city to city.
Private vessels likewise may be
procured.
The voyage from Frankfort on the
Mein to Cologne is delightful ; as is
that from Ratisbon to Vienna *.
ROUTE FROM HAMRUROH TO
LEIPSIC -f.
7i Lenzen
ij Arendsee
1 Osterburgh
14 Stendal-^lhe Cathedral of $.
Nicholas merits notice.
2 Burgstall
2 Magdeburgh — This City is sup-
posed to contain 33,000 Inhabi-
tants. Best Hotel, La Cour de
Prusse^ already mentioned.
1 Salze
1 Kalbe
\\ Cothen — ^Inn, L^Ours,
1 Zoerbig
1 Landsberg-
14 Leipsic.
22^ posts.
This Town is supposed to contain
" Germaxy :'* because it follows as an ap-
pendage to the Route from Florence to Ham-
burgh ; and the New Road from Dresden to
Prague being comprehended in the Route
from FJorence to Hamburgh, is consequently
omitted under " Germany."
Stf
APPENDIX.
[cii«p.vin.
B8,000 inhabitants. The objects
best worth notioe aro, The Pleissen^
bourg — the PatUinum^^ihe College
of the Princee, and the Red CoUege
- ^the ancient Arsenal — the Hotel tie
Ville — the Cour d^Atterbaeh in Fair-
time — the Eseehange — the CoUege of
S. Thomcts~^h6 Manage — the Thea-
tre— ihe Churchee of S* Nicholas
and S. Thomas — the House which
contains thirteen ceilings, by Oeser
— the EsplaTUide — and the Public
Ziibraries,
The Promenades are numerous
and pleasant. The prices at the
German Theatre are, for a box in
the first row, four crowns ; in the
second row, three crowns ; in the
third row, eight bons-groschen ; and,
for a i^Iace in the parterre, six bons-
^oschen ; unless it be Fair-time,
when something more is paid.
The three Fairs are held at Christ-
mas, Easter, and Michaelmas ; and
At these Fairs as many books are
said to be sold yearly as amount to
^00,000 rix-dollass.
The principal inns are The S€uneche
Hof-^he Preussische //o/~>and t?ie
Baierische Hof, The first is an ex-
cellent Hotel, but expensive.
The price of a front-room, fuel
inclusive, at ah Inn, is one florin
per day ; and of a back-room, eight
bons grbschen, unless it be Fair-time,
when a good room cannot be obtained
tinder two crowns. The wages of a
Valet'de-'place is one florin per day ;
unless it be Fair-time, when he ex-
pects a crown. Job-carriages, and
common Hacks may always be found
before the Gates of S. Pierre, and
Grimma.
Leipsic will henceforth be me-
morable for having given its name
to one of the most important modern
battles ever fought — a battle in which
near half a million of men, com-
manded by three Emperors, a King,
and an Heir-apparent to a throne,
were engaged during little - less than
an hundred hours^they fought in a
virde embracing above nfteen miles.
HOUTE FHOM LEIPSIC TO
D&E8DEK.
1| tVurzen-'The Cathedral here
merits notice.
1} Luppe
2 Klappendorf
\\ Meissen
\\ Dresden.
7i posts.
nOUTE FROM LEIPSIC THROUGH
GOTHA, TO FEANKFORT OK THE
MEIN.
1 Lutzen — Near this small Town
is the spot on which Gnstavus
Adolphus perished ; and a stone
marks the spot where the hero's
body was found.
Charles XI I, being in the neigh-
bourhood of Lutzen, went to
visit the field of battle; little
thinking, perhaps, that treach-
ery would soon destroy his Iffe,
as it did that of his model)
Gnstavus.
] Weissenfels — The Castle here,
and its Church, merit notice.
Inn, Les trois Cignes.
1 Naumburgh — The Cathedral here
merits notioe. Best Inns, Le
Brochet ; and Le Cheval noir.
The wine of. this neighbourhood
resembles Burgundy.
1 Eckardtsberg—~ Between Naum-
burgh and Eckardtsberg, the
road traverses the mountain of
Koesen.
Ijf Weimar
l| Erfort— This City is enriched
with a University. Inns, Les
trois Aigles, ^o,
1} Gotha^The inhabitants of Gotha
are estimated at 11,000. The
Chateau — the Great Terrace-^
the Arsenal — the Churches called
Kloster and Neumarkts Kirchgn
'^ihe English Garden^-4hejtub'
lie Library and that of the So^
vereign — the Royal Collection of
Paintings, *•<?.— and the Gym-
nasium ment notice.
Best inns, Le N^gre ; La Re^
traite ; Le Greloi d* Argent, *<?.
The road to Gotha is execrable
in wet weather.
1} Eisenach^^La Klemme, is a good
inn. The Castle of Wartboui^,
which stands on the summit of
a hill in this vicinity, once served
as an asyhm to lAih«r»
GEaMlWT.l FULDE— FRANKFORT— BRUNSWICK, ^c.
543
IJ Berka-^A bad road from Eise-
nach to Berka. Inn, the Post-
house,
If fVach — Pavement from Berka-
hither.
Buttlar — Inn, the Post-house.
HvnefeU
Fnlde— This City contains 12,000
inhabitants. The objects best
worth notice are, TheChAteau—
the Cathedral — the Churches of
S. Boniface and S» Michael —
the Convent of S. Semveur — the
Benedictine and Franciscan
Convents — the Porcelain Manu-
facture^ and the Library be-
longing to the University,
The celebrated Baths of Bruck-
enau are near Fulde.
Best inn. The Post-house, The
^vine of S. John's mountain, in
this neighbourhood, is excellent,
and sold in sealed bottles out of
the Prince Bishop's cellar.
Neuhof
Schl'uchiern
Saalmunster
Gelnhausen — Le Soleil \% a good
inn.
Hanau — A pretty Town. The
Castle merits notice. Inns good.
Frankfort.
2
1
1
1
H
22^ posts.
The inhabitants of Frankfort are
estimated at 43,000, besides near
7000 Jews, who live detached from
the rest of the people.
The objects best worth notice in
this City are, the Cathedral — the
'Church of S, Catherine — the Convent
des Predicateurs^ containing a cele-
brated Assumption, by Albert Durer
— the Hotel de Ville—the Teutonic
Palace the Exchange — the Arsenals
■^ihe Hotel-Dieu — the Maison de
force — the Hospital of S. Esprit —
the Theatre— 2LTi^ the Bridge^ thrown
over the Mein.
Inns, The Weidenbusch ; The
weisse Swann ; and La Cour d^Angle-
terre.
Frankfort Fair is held twice a year ;
namely, at Easter, and during the
latter end of Summer.
ROUTE FBOH LEIPSIG TO BEtJKS-
WICKf
1| Groskugel
1} HaUe—IUns, VAwneau d^or-^
Prince Royal de Prusse — Lion
d*or.
Among the objects best worth
notice here are, the Cothedral,
and the University.
1^ Konnern
' IJ Aschersleben—The Church of S.
Etienne — the Public School —
and the ruins of the Ch&teau
d'Ascanie^ merit notice.
1 Quedlmbu7'^h — The Ch&teau —
the Library — and the Prome-
nade, called Le Bruhl, merit
notice.
I Halberstadt
. 1| RoklUfH.
. 2J Wolfenbuttel
. l| Brunswick.
13^ posts.
Brunswick is supposed to contain
28,000 inhabitants. The objects best
worth attention in this City are, the
Castle^ called Grauen H of— the new
Hotel de Ville—theMost.Haus, in the
Square, before which is an antique
Statue of a Lion — the Buildings of the
Carolinum — the Opera-house — the Ca-
thedral — t?te Hospitals — the FouMain,
in the Place de He^enmarkt — the
Vhurch of S; Nicholas^ which contains
two good Pictufes— /A« Churches of
S. Catherine and S. Andrew— the old
Hotel de Ville—the royal Collection of
Natural History, Paintings, S[c.~-^
and the Carolinum Library.
Brunswick is famous for a sort. of
beer called Mumme.
Best inn, L^ Hotel d*Angleterre.
At Wolfenbuttel, near this City,
there is a valuable Library; and at
the Ch&teau de Salxdahlum a good
collection of Pictures.
iiouTS raoM brttnswick to ha-
KOVER.
1^ Peine.
1 Sehnde.
\\ Hanover.
4 posts.
This City has about 19,000 inha-
bitants; and the objects best worth
observation are, the Church belonging
to the Ch&teau^ihe Opera-house— the
Royal Stables — the Maison des Hats —
the Mimvment €f Werlhof, in the
644
APMNDTX.
[Ch. VIII.
public Cemetery — aad<JW MohJUrkeni
of Leibnitz,
Best Inns, Le Solid; UOurs ; ^c,
HOUTE FHOH HAVOVER TO GOT-
TIVGEN.
1 Tiedenwiesen — This road is ex-
cellent.
1 Bruggen — Inn, The Post-house.
\\ Eimbeck
1 Nordheim — A famous Organ in
the parochial Church.
1 Oottingen.
5| posts.
This City contains near 8000 inha-
bitants. The objects best worth no-
tice are, the Buildings of the Univer-
sity — the Observatory — the Lying-in
Hospital — the Anatomical Theatre —
the Botanic Garden-~4he Mankge^ and
the Library^ belonging to the Univer»
sity^ and reputed to be the best in
Germany.
Inns, La Couronne — Le Rot de
Prusse, ^c.
The environs of Gottingen are in-
teresting; especially the excursion to
Harz.
EOUTE FROH LEIPSIC TO DANT-
ZICK.
Miles.
3 Euleuburg
3 Torgau — The principal Church
here contains the Tomb of Ca-
therine a Boria, Luther's Wife.
3 Herzberg
2\ Hohenbitckau
2 Luckau
2 Lubben
3^ Liberosa
3 Rfufiirose
2 Frankfort on the Oder — This
City has 10,000 inhabitants ;
and among the objects best worth
notice, are the Churches of. S,
Mary and S. Nicholas — the
Chartreuse— the Hotel de Ville
— the Casernes— the Hotel Dieu
— the Bridge — the Monument of
Prince Leopold of Brunswick^
who was drowned in the Oder,
by attempting to save the lives
of others — and the Monument
of Kleist, the Poet.
There is a University here : and
among the best inns are, Le
lAohd'or; Les trots Cowronnes^
and VAigle d^or.
4 Custrin — InnSy Le Cerf d'or, ^c,
2} Netidamm
3} Sotdin
3| Pyritz
3 Stargard — The Church of S.
Mary, in this Town, merits no-
tice. The best inn h Les trois
Couronnesy near the Post-house.
2^ Massow
3 Neugard
2i Plathe
2| Pinnow
1 Romahn
4 Coerlin
3f Coeslin
3| Panhenin
2\ Schlave
3^ Stolpe -—'famous for the amber
found in its vicinity. •
3^ Lupow
6 Godenfau
S| Neustadt
3f Kaiz
2^ Dantzig.
87i miles.
This City contains near 40,000 inha-
bitants; and among the ol^'ects best
worth notice are, the Ejechange — the
Cathedral, which is one of the finest
churches in Europe — tlte Lutheran
College— the Hotel de Ville— the Cour
des Nobles — the Arsenal — and the
Junker- Garten,
Inns, La Maison Anglaise — Les
trois Negres, ^c,
ROUTE FROM FRANKFORT ON THE
MEIN TO BERLIN.
Miles.
2 Hanau
3 Golnhausen
2 Saalmunster — Inn, l^he Post^
house, and clean.
2 Sckluchiem
2 Neuhnf
H Fulde
2 Hunefeld
2 Putlach
l\ fVach
2\ Marksuki
iJt Eisenach
3 Gotha — The Biesen is recom-
mendM by Travellers as a good
Inn where the charges are rea-
sonable.
6£ftXAKt.]
R0UT£SL^tQ5BURG.
U&
3 JEkrfort
3 Weimar — Inn, The Erb Prince^
good and not dear.
3| Eskersberg
2) Nanmbui^h
2 JVeinenfeit
2 Jjubzen
2 Leipsic — The Inns at Leipsic
have been abready named.
2} DelitKh
2 Peters/eld
4J Wittemberg — Midway between
Petersfeld and Wittemberg is a
Post-house, where the horses are
changed. Best Inn at Wittem-
berg The Wein Trattbe, abeady
named.
2 Kropatadt
2i Treuenbritxen
2\ Belitx
2j Potsdam — Inns, The Einsiedler
— and The Sladt Rom, already
named. The whole of this Road
is excellent.
. 4 Berlin.
65} miles.
BOVTE FROM BERLIN BY HALBER-
STADT, MIKDEM*, BIELEFELD,
MUKSTER, WESBL, AKD EMME-
RICH, TO AMSTERDAM.
ZeMendorf
Potsdam
4 GroMcreuix
Brandenburg
Genthin
I Bourg
\ Slagdeburg
I Egeln
I Halberstadt
i ZUiy
Rimbek
\ Beinum
^ Nettlingen
Hiidesheim
Elze
Hohnsen
Hess-Oidendorf
J Buckebourg
I Minden
R;hme
I Herfort
Bielefeld
Brockhagen
I Warendorf
I Munstcr
\\ Appclhuhen
\
1 Dulmen
1} Tttthaut
I Schmerbeck
1 fVeael
1^ Rees
1 Emmerick
^ Elien
1^ Arnheim — The posts of HoUand
begin here.
8^ Luniem
2\ Amertfort
3 Naarden
2 Amsterdam.
534 Posts of Prussia.
10 J Posts of HoUaiid.
63| in all.
ROUTE FROM FRAKKFORT ON THE
MEIN TO AUGSBURGH.
Posts.
1 Hanau — PhiUpsruhe and Wil-
helmsbad, in this neighbourhood,
merit notice.
1 DetHngen — MemoraUe for the
battle of 1743.
I Aschaffenburg — Inn, VAigle
d*or,
1 Obemhurg
\\ MUtenburg
1 Hundheim
1 Bischofacheim — Inn, Le Cerf,
I Mergentheim — Inn, Le Cerf,
If Blaufelden
1^ CraiUheim — Famous for its Por-
celain 3Ianufacture, and Mine-
ral Waters.
I I D'unkelsbuhl^The Church of the
Carmelites, in this Town, is
adorned with a fine Picture.
1 Fremdingen
1 Nordlingen — ^A Crucifix, attri-
buted to Alichael Angelo, and
an excellent Painting, by Albert
Durer, embellish the principal
Church here. Inn, La CoU"
ronne.
I ^ Donauworth — Inn, La Couronne,
l\ Meitingen
\\ Augsburg,
18^ posts.
Augsburgh, formerly denominated
Augusta Vindelicorum, the largest
City in Swabia, and supposed to be
the most ancient, is seated between
the rivers Lech and Wortach, and
has 30,000 inhabitants. The objects
2 N
M6
APFBKDIX.
tcai. VIIL
best worth notice here are thB Catki'
drai, which comprises twenty-four
chapels ; and is ornamented with a
celebrated picture of the Resurrection,
by Zoll—theAbbep of S. Ulrxc-^he
Church of S, Anne — the Hotel de
Ville—the Tower ofPerlach — the Ar-
eendU-Uhe House of Correction — the
Gate called Einlass^the public Foun-
tains — some private houses which con-
tain antique paintings in fresco — and
the Libraries belonging to the Cathe-
dral and S. Ulric ; the latter of which
possesses the drawings and sketches of
Albert Durer.
Augsburgh exhibits Testiges of Ro-
man Antiquities.
Les trois Maures, has been already
mentioned as the best Inn ; L'Agneau
blanCf in the Faubourg, likewise
merits recommendation.
ROUtE FROM AUOSBVROH, TO CON-
8TAKCE, SCHATFHAUSEK, AND
BASLE.
1 1 SchwahmUnchen
l| Mindelheim
1| Memmingen —^tniky Le Boeuf
blanc.
H Wurxach
5 Wolfek
1 Ravensberg
1 Stadelle— The first view of the
Lake of Constance Is enchanting.
1 Moersburg — Inn, L^Ours.
1 Constance — Travellers who pur-
sue this route cross the Lake to
Constance ; and usually give for
a four-oared boat, large enough
to convey a carriage, from three
to four florins, together with
about thirty kre\ttzers. to the
boatmen for drink-money. The
Lake of Constance, anciently
called Brigantinus, is about
eighteen leagues in length, five
in breadth, and chiefly supplied
by the Rhine. Between Moera-
burg and Constance the Passage
is not always safe ; but at Ueber-
lingen it is shortei", and less
dangerous.
The Cathedral at Constance is a
fine edifice ; and its Doors merit
observation.
The prindpal Inn is L'Aigle d*or.
Travellers should visit the island
of MeinsH.
1 ZHl
\ Singen — Near this place, on the
summit of a rock, originally vol-
canic, is the Castle of Hohen-
twiel, which belongs to the So-
vereign of Wii*temberg, and now
serves as a state-prison.
1 Schaffhausen — The bridge here,
constructed by a common car-
penter, named Grubenmann,
once merited observation: but
the ruthless hand of War has
destroyed it'. The publie Libra-
ries deserve notice.
About one league from SchafiT-
hausen, on the way to Zurich, is
the celebrated Fall of the Rhine :
and Travellers who wish to see
the terrestrial rainbows which
this stupendous Cataract exhi-
bits, should visit it before nine
o'clock in the morning.
1 Waidskut
1 Lauffenburg — Here is another Fall
of the Rhine; but not equal
in beauty to that of Schaff-
hausen.
1^ Rheinfelden — BettreenRheinfelden
and Basle is Augst, anciently
Augusta Rauracorum^ where
remains may be traced of Ro-
man Antiquities.
1 Basle.
17i posts.
This is a flourishing commercial
City, supposed to contain 15,000 in-
habitants. The objects best worth
notice here are, the Bridge thrown
over the Rhine — the Cathedral^ a Oo-
thic edifice which contains some Anti-
quities, together with the Tomb of
Erasmus — the Hotel de Ville^ where
there is an apartment painted by Hol-
bein, who was a native of Basle>—
Fragments of the Dance of Deaths
supposed to have been done by a pupil
of Holbein, and preserved in the
public Library^ which is embellished
with paintings by Holbein, Antiqui-
ties, Natural History, &c. Basle con-
tains a University; and among the
best inns are^ Les trois Rois^ and La
Cigogne.
ROUTE FROM AUOSBtrROH TO
RATISBOK.
Iji Aichach — The ruins of the two
Castles of Wittelsbach, from
which family descend the Princes
deftUAKT.]
RATISBON— MUNICH.
W7
of Bayaria, render this smafl
Town remarkable.
1 Schrobenhausen
1 Pornbach
1 Oeisenfeld
\\ Nemtadt
\\ Saai
\\ Ratisbon.
B\ posts.
Ratisbon is seated on the Danube ;
and contains about 20,000 inhabitants.
The objects best worth notice in this
City are, its ancient Bridge^ three
hundred and fifty yards in length —
the Cathedrai-^he Abbey qf S, Em^
meran — the Hotel de Ville — and
the Library of the Prince of Thurn
and Taans, which is open to the public
Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays,
from ten till twelve in the morning,
and from two till five in the afternoon.
Persons who wish to see it on other
days must apply to the Librarian.
The Towii Library — and the Library
and Cabinet of the Abbey of S. Em*
meran, merit attention.
Inns, La Croix d*ory VAgneau
blanc, S[C*
k0x7te f&obi rat i sb ok to bay-
heuth.
1^ Stanholtz
1^ Sc/iwandorff
1^ Amberg
] Hambach
1^ Kirchen^Tumbach
1 Creusan
I Bayreuth
9 posts*
ROUTE FROM BAYREUTH TO
LEIP8IC.
] Bemeck
1 Monchberg
1 Hoff
li Plauen
'\\ tleichenhaeh
1 Zwickau
1^ Goanitz
l| Pima
l| Leipzig
11^ posts.
ROUTE FROM RATISBON TO
MUNICH.
1 Eg/ofsheim
1 Buch-hausen
1 Ergolspach
1^ LandshnU;.THe object! b^t worth
notice in this Town are, the
Gothic Tower belonging to the
Church of S, Martin-^ the
Church of S, Job — ^and the an-
cient ChAteau* Inns^ Le Soleii
tTor; Le Cog noirf and La
Grappe*
1 Motpurg
1 Freysing — The objects best worth
attention in this Town are, the
Cathedral the Benedictine
Church — the Chapel and Cupola
of S. Peler^s — and the Benedie*
tine Lyceum,
Principal Inns, La Charms, and
Lee Sept Glands.
1| Garcking
\ Munich.
8^ posts.
Munich, the Capital of Bavaria, is
seated on the Iser ; and contains above
40,000 inhabitants. The Royal Re*
sidence in this elegant City, though
nnpromisiug on the outside, is mag.
nificent within ; and the collection of
Miniature Pictures in this Palace ;
the Tapestry representing the ex-
ploits of Otho de Wittelsback • the
great Staircase ^ the Chapel^ which
contains a painting attributed to Mi.
chael An^elo, together with the Altar
used by the unfortunate Mary, Queen
of Scotland, during her imprlik)nment.
and a particularly fine Organ, all
merit notice.
{{GFDL}}