Information and Directions for Travellers on the Continent  

• • (y) ^e basse lisse has been lately aban-

doned.

tdWAM his fiiodell though dcdft* Ott the t5th of Ati^st i8dd, Parii^ siofl&lly h€i rei)^rs to it) in order to began to erect this fine Arch, in ^HipAre the eolotir of his yam order to perpetuate the fkme ob* Witii thftt part of the pictnre he is tainedby the French armies durinj| copying. iTlese workmen express the former year. It was intended with perfect truth not only the de- to be one 'hundred and thirty-five aign of the most celebrated pic- Paris feet in height ; but unfor- tureS, but also the tightness of tunately is not finished, their colours, and the regular gra- Porte S. Denii. The conquests dfetiOh bf their shades ; So that the of Louis XIV, in 1672, prompted Gobelin Tapestry (so called from a the City of Paris to erect this mag- fluhous dyer ofwool, Jean Gobe- nificent Triumphal Arch, to perpe* ^) has the effefct of the most ex* tuate his fame. The Basn-riHevi ^uisite painting : but it somelimea represent Military Trophies re- requires six years of labour to markably well executed ; personi- fittish one pi«3e of thisTApestry; fications of Holland and the and eighteen thousand fi*ancs to Rhine ; the Passage of the Rhine ; piiy the cost. The Mmmfaciure and the capture of Maestricht. de^ Cfobdins is supported At the Porte S. Martin. The continued expense of the IfVench Govern* success of Louis XIV, induced the tAeht; and to this Establishment City of Paris to erect, in 1673, is annexed the celebrated Royai another monument to perpetuate CarjeT: Manufactory, founded by his fame. This Arch, though less Maria de' Medici in 1604. adorned than that of S. Denis, iS

For admission Foreigners must in point of architecture equally

apply, by letter post-paid, to M* harmonious and deified. The

le Vicomte de la Rochefoucauld, bassi-rili&vi represent the Capture

Directeur des Beaux Arts, No. ofBesan^on; the Triple AUianee ;

lau Rue de Grenelle, Fauboui^ the Capture of Limbourg; and the

S* Gmnain. Defeat of the Germans, figured by

Chhnne de Id Pktc6 Vmidni^, the God of War repulsing aft This stately Doric Column, one Eagle. Distinguished artists werd hundred and thirty-five feet itl employed to execute these Gates, height, pedestal inclusive, and THhunal da Corpi L^gistatif^ twelve feet in diameter*, is made of Opposite to the Bridge of Louis ctonon taken fi-om the enemies of XVl, rises a magnificent Portico, France, in battles fought by Napo- near an hundred feet in breadth, ttOtt and his generals : it represents and adorned with twelve Corinthian those battles in bronie oassi-ri'- Columns, surmounted by a Pedi-^ Uevi; and on its summit originally ment. A superb Plight of Stepii itood a colossal Statue of the Em- leads to the entrance of the Edi- pefor, which, after his dethrone* fice ; and fronting the Bridge are ntent, was taken down ; and has. Statues of Sully, Colbert, rH6pi- ECeording to report, been carried tal, and d'Aguesseau. Tliis Por- to Moscow. A winding staircase^ of tico leads to the Hall of tiie De- one hundred and seventy-six steps, puties.

Jeads to the top of this Triumphal CathMrdede NStre-Dame. ThiU

Pillar; which is said to preserve the building, supposed to have been

proportions of Trajan's Column^ commenced about the year 1010,

on A scale larger by a twelfth. is surmounted by Twin-Towers of

Arc d4 IHornpke de fEioil^ a ini^estio height; and contains

(i") The dimensioDB of this Cdltmii ax* in English or Frtnch feet. One Pftrit foot li

copied from Oalignani: but he does not twdre BttgUsh iach«g and fom fifdA specify whether his measurements were taken

<Jh.f.j PAftlS. IS

irood paintings hf Philippe de tftnk ; ^o h&s a sUff tinder h\n tlhaihp^tisrne, Jouvenet, &c. to- command. Skilful physicians and ftether with a descent from the surgeons are attached to the in- Cross (in sculpture) by the elder stitution ; and the Soeurs de ia Coustou : and behind the Sane- Charity nurse the sick with th< tuary, in a newly erected Chapel, tenderest care : all the Pension- is an admired Statue, by Antonio ers are provided with abundant Rasra^i, executed at Rome. and wholesome nourishment ; and

Pantheon. This elegant Build- likewise with pay proportioned to ins^, dedicated to S. G^nevidve, the their rank in tlie army. The Cout Patron Saint of Paris, was erected Roy ale of this edifice, and the by command of Louis XV, after Dome of the new Church, are the desi&ns of Soufflot: its form deemed masterpieces of architec- is a QreeK cross, three hundred and ture; especially the latter, which forty Paris feet in length, peristyle was erected according to the de- inclusive ; and two hundred and signs of Jules Hardomn Mansart ; fifty feet wide. In the centre and (measuring from the pave- rises a Dome nearly sixty-three bient to the cross on the summit leet in diameter ; supported within, of the lantern) is reputed to bg and ad6med without, by Columns three hundred Paris feet in height *• which produce a pleasing effect. The lead which covers it was ori- The exterior height of the Dome finally gilt, by order of Louis is two hundred and eighty-two XIV, and re-gilt by command of feet ; and the interior height of the Napoleon. This stately Edifice is Nave one hundred and seventy United to the old Church by means feet. The Peristyle consists of of two Circular Sacristies, and the twenty-two fluted Corinthian Co- Arch in which the High Altar lumns fifty-eight feet high, Bases stands : and the Pavement con- and Capitals inclusive ; and five sists of inlaid marbles, which re- feet and a half in diameter ; sup- present Lilies, the Cordon of the porting a pediment one hundred Order of Saint Esprit, &c. Un- and twenty feet long. Under this der the Dome are six Chapels j Church is a vast ttefteptacle for the first of which, to the right (oa the Relics of the Great*. entering by the great door) is de-

Garde-Meuhle de la Coutonne* dicated to S. Augustine, and em-

The Jewels in this Depository me- bellished with Paintings by Louis

rit notice; especially that placed Boullogne. The next contains a

on the summit of the Crown, and Monument erected to the memory

distinguished by the name of The of Marshal Vauban, an hundred

Regent. years after his decease. The Cha-

H6tel Royal des Invalidee, This pel of S. Ambrose was painted by

immense Edifice was erected by Bon BouUogpie. The Chapel of

command of Louis XIV, as a re- S. Gregpry is said to have been

treat for old and deserving soldiers originally painted by Le Brun, and

6f the French army ; and displays re-touched by Doyen. The Cha-

a magnificence most honourable pel of S. Theresa contains the

to its founder. It accommodates Monument of Turenne, who is re-

•even thousand persons ; and is presented dying in the arms of

j^ovemed by an officer of high Victory: at his Ibet is an affrighted

(a) The Church of St. Kostace is bold and (P^ Th« interior heiirht of th« Dom« « rc-

Bght. in point of Afchitcctnre ; and thft ptit«d to be one hundred and ninety feet, and

Chnrches of 8. Roch and S. SuUiee, bnilt Ita diamtter nixt/v alKmt th^ mlddU of tbO eifhtMatn ocntar/, are handsome.

S4 PARIS. [Ch.L

Eagle, the sfymbol of the Empire Institution Royafe des Sourds* over which he gained repeated Muete, Rue S. Jacques. The be- conquests ; and in front of the nevolent idea of teaching the Deaf Monument is a basso-Hlievo, (re- and Dumb to read, write, and presenting the Battle of Turckeim,) speak, was formed by the Abb£ de beneath which are Wisdom and I'Ep^e ; who, with a fortune of Valour bewailing the death of the only twelve hundred livres per Hero. The last Chapel is dedi- annum, maintained, at his own cated to S. Jerome ; and was expense, forty Pupils of the above painted by Bon Boullogne^ Above description ; and tnus founded one the opemngs of the four Chapels of the noblest charities in France : at the angles, are beautiful Bassi- but all the sacrifices he was com- rilievi; namely, S. Louis sending pelled to make, in order to accom- Missioiiaries to instruct the Infi- plish his purpose, would at lensth dels, by Sebastian Slodtz ; ah An- have proved fruitless, had not Ids gel bearing a Buckler, by Nicholas talents and virtues been renewed Coustou ; S. Louis feeding the in the Abb^ Sicard ; who brought Poor, by Legros ; an Angel hold- the plans of his predecessor to ing the holy Ampulla^ by Antoine such perfection that he enabled Flamant ; the Pope blessing S. the Deaf and Dumb not onl}^ to Louis and his children, by Fran- read, write, and speak, but uke- cesco Spingola ; and an Angel wise to cast accounts, and to under- holding m one hand a crown, and stand turning, mosaic work, draw* in the other a Standard, bearing ing, and painting, so as to get fhe^eurs'de-lis, by Comeille Van- their livelinood. He also taught Cleve. The Ceiling of the Sane- them French and English gram- tuary, painted by Noel Coypel, re- matically ; geography, history, ge- ' presents the Mysteries oftneTri- ometry, and metaphysics; and at nity, and the Assumption of the the conclusion of every month his Virgin. The groups of Angels, Pupils had a public exhibition : forming Concerts in the Embra- death, however, deprived them, sures of the Windows, are by in May, 1822, of their excellent Louis and Bon Boullqgne. The Master ; who was succeeded by Vault of the Nave forms four the Abb6 Perier. His number of arches; in the Pendentives of gratuitous Pupils is Hxed at ninety ; which are the four Evangelists, by but that of Boarders is unlimited. Charles de la Fosse ; above these The terms for Boarders depend are' the twelve Apostles, by Jou- upon the pecuniary resources of venet ; and in the upper part of their parents ; but the common the Cupola is the Apotheosis of S. demand is nine hundred francs a Louis, by Charles de la Fosse *. year for boys, and eight hundred

The H6tel des Invalides is open francs for girls,

to the Public every day, from ten Tickets of admission, during the

in the morning till lour in the public exercises, may be obt^ned

afternoon : but its Library (which by applying (by letter, post-paid)

was presented to the Establish- to the Director, at the Institution,

ment by Napoleon) cannot be Notice de la Salpctriere, Sou*

seen without permission from the levard de rH6pital,pr^s le Jardin

Governor ; who must be applied des Plantes, This large and well

to by letter. regulated Hospital, nobly endowed

(jc) Colonels and Lientenant-ColoneU, in porcelain at tables holding twelve persont

tills noble Establishment, have the priyilege each ; and for sub-officers and privates thei>e

of taking their meals in their own rooms : are three large tables. It is an interesting

inferior officers are served upon plate and sight to 9ee these veterans dine.

Ch. 10 PARIS. S$

by Louis XIV, and enriched by the Building consists of iron and

private contributions, can acccom- copper ; and the SalU de la Boune

modate nearly eight thousand per- is nch in Sculpture, adorned with

sons ; and receives females inca- Monochromatic Paintings, and

pable of eamine their bread. paved with marble.

H6pit(d des Enfans-trouvcs cmd Oreniers de Reserve, Boulevard

Hospice de la MatemiU, Rite de la Bourdon, This, edifice was begun

Bourbe. The exemplary Vincent in 1807, and would, if completed

de Paul erected, in 1640, a Hos- according to the original plan,

pital for Foundlings ; which was have been capable of containing

afterwards greatly assisted, both an hundred thousand quintals of

by private and public bounty ; but, com : but political events occa-

nevertheless, during 1792, out of sioned a suspension of the work ;

eight thousand Children received which was, however, resumed in

in this Asvlum the moiety died be- 1816, though on so limited a

fore they had attidned their second scale that the store-houses would

year : and to check the course of not, at present, contain more than -

so dreadful a mortality. Monsieur one-third the quantity they were

Hombron conceived the happy originally destined to receive, idea of uniting the Mothers with Abattoirs. The Slaughter-

their Children, and thus preserving houses constructed by the Romans

both. Ceasing, therefore, to make to snve health to the ancient Oa-

a lying-in Hospital of the HStel pitsd of the civilized world, were

Dieu, the French Government not more magnificent than the

formed the Foundling Hospital Abattoirs of Popincourt smd Mont'

into. a double Establishment ; the Martre; which, together with the

one part for pregnant Women, and Abattoir du Route, are placed at

the other for deserted Infants. the northern extremity of Paris.

Observatoire, Rue dEn/er. This The Abattoirs divry, and de Vau-

buildine was erected by order of girard, are placed at the southern

Louis XIV, and has, of late years, extremity. These estabhshmeuts,

been much improved in point of admirable for the order and expe-

convenience, and amply furnished dition with which they are cleansed

with astronomical instruments : it and purified, though multitudes of

is open to Travellers every day. animals are every day slaughtered

Palais de la Bourse, Rue des and skinned tliere, contain a con- Filles S, Thomas. Paris has long siderable number of Courts, Sheep- wanted an Exchange worthy of pens. Stalls for Oxen, Tanks, her extensive commerce ; and this store-houses for fodder, commo- Building, begun in 1807, and re- dious Slaughter-houses, building cently finished, does great honour provided with every requisite for to its Architect, Brongniard. Its mdting tallow, and spacious At- form is a parallelogram of two tics, where hides and tallow are hundred and twelve feet by one deposited.

himdred and twenty-six : it is sur- The Abattoir of Mont-Martre roj^nded by a Peristyle of sixty-six is three hundred and eighty-nine Corinthian Columns, supporting yards in length, by one hundred an Entablature and an Attic, and and forty in breadth. The Abattoir forming a covered Gallery ap- of Popincourf likewise is very ex- proached by a flight of Steps, ex- tensive : the others are smaller ; tending the whole length of the but equally commodious. Travel- western Front. This Gallery is lers who apply for a Guide at the adorned with Bassi-rilievi which Porter's Lodge, may visit any one relate to commerce. The roof of of the Abattoirs; and wUoev^r

u

PARIIS.

[Gh. t

does fhis» must regret thi^t simi- lar establishments are not general throusrhout the World.

Halls au Bii, Ru^ de VtarmeSi The Cupola of this Market, built In 1782, by Molinds and Legrahd, was three hundred and seventy- Seven Paris feet in circumference, and one hundred f^et in height : it Gonsisted of wood, placed in a he- mispheric form, and apparently so shgnt, that it was impossible to con- template this extraordinary piece of architecture without wondering how it held together. After stand- ing twenty-two years, it fell a prey to fire ; and to prevent the recur- rence of such an accident, was re- built with ribs of iron covered by sheet-copper. The diameter of this Cupola is only thirteen feet less than that of the Pantheon at Rome.

Halie aux Vins, Quai S, Ber- n&rd. The ancient emporium for wines having fallen to decay » Na- poleon ordered the first stone of the present building to be laid on the 15th of August, 1813. This immense Market is divided into five streets ; one being called Rue d^ Champagne; another. Rue de Bourgogne ; another^ Rue de Bor- deaux ; another. Rue de Langue- doc ; and another, Rue de la C6te d'Or. TheWine-Cellars are vault- ed with hewn stone, and capa- ble of containing four hundred thousand casks ; the brandy-cel- lars are vaulted with a new kind of hoUow brick, about six inches in length. The various edifices be- longing to the Market are all sim- ple and elegant; and the whole displays a magnificence worthy of its Projector.

Marckc d Id Volaillet ei au Oi" bier. Nothing can be more elegant of its kind than this Market, which receives supplies of Poultry, Game,

(i) The 8tahi« of Hernr IV» whicb has t«- centlv been re-erecred on one side of the Pont- Ntufy spoils the eifbet of thd bridge. Napo- Itoft nciAt to kAre rtlted, oa the 8p«t no#

&c. on Mondays, Wednesdays, a&d Saturdays.

Of the fifteen Bridges which are seen at Paris, the Pont-Neuf^ erected by Henry IV, is the long- est^; the Pont de Louis XVI, the boldest with respect to design ; and the Pont des Art^, and the Pont du Jardin des Plantes, the most re- markable on account of their light- ness, elegance, and arches of Iron. The Pont des Invalides also merits notice, on account of its cornice, imitated from that which adorned a temple, supposed to have been dedicated to Mars the Avenger, In the Forum of Nerva, at Rome.

Fontaine de I Esplanade du Boulevard de Bondi, ^ The compo- sition of this Fountain is simple ; the execution good ; and the effect produced by the water, falling in sheets from basin to basin, parti- cularly pleasing.

Fontaine des Innocens. This fountain was erected in 1551, ac- cording to the designs of Lescot and Goujon; and afterwards re* moved from its original situation, added to, and placed in the centre of the Marchk des Innocens, where it now stands.

Fontaine de Grenelle, This Work, executed by Bouchardon, and erected in 1 739, is admired with respect to the sculpture and archi- tecture ; but so sparingly provided with water as to destroy the effect of the Fountain ; which is embel- lished with statues representing the City of Paris, the Seine, and the Mame.

Fontaine de la Bastille, The colossal Fountain which Napoleon meant to have erected on the site of the Bastille, remains, like too many of his works, unfinished. According to his plan, a semi-cir^ cular arch, thrown over the Canal of S. Martin, was to have beed

6ectipi«d hf this Statue, as Obelisk of gra- Bite above two hundred feet in heifht ; and such an omament, so placed, would have beea VeautlfuL

Ch.IJ

PARIS.

17

turmouttted by a Bronze Elephant, mord than fteventy-two feet high> including a Tower on the back of the Animal ; whose Proboscis was to have dispensed the water. A lUll-sited plaster model of the Ele- phant, together with models of twenty-four Bassi-rili^in intended to adorn the pedestal, may be seen in a shed near the site of the Bas- ^e, by a personal application at the Direction des Tfavaux des Ma^ humens Publici, No. 29, Rue de tUnitmrnU,

Fontaine BgfpHennei Rue de Sevres. This beautiful Fountain was constructed in 1806. It exhi- bits the Gate of a Tem{>le, the (^ningof which forms a niche for a statue of the Egyptian Antinous, holding in each hand a rase whence Water descends into a circular Ba- sin, and then issues from the mouth of a bronze Sphynx. An entablature, which crowns the Edi- fice, displays an eagle.

A colossal equestrian Statue of bronze, representing Louis XIV, in the costume of a Roman Em- peror, has been recently erected in the Place des Victoires.

Cimetiiree et Ca^acombeB, Pa- ris presents no Burial-grounds adorned with funereal monuments ; the cause of Which seems to have been, that the possessors of riches and honours were entombed within • the walls of consecrated edifices, while the mortal remains of the' poor were thrown into the vast and common grave of the respective- eemeteries; and even grudged a Mttie earth as a covering. These receptacles of corruption, by con- stantly evaporating putrid air, pro- duced epidemic m^adies ; and thus punished the Living fbr their want of piety toward the Dead: in! 7 73, therefore* the Parliament of Paris ordered the Cimetihre des Ifmocens^ the largest and most noxious of these receptacles to be closed : and soon after* all the cemeteries with* in the City w«» riowd likewise v

thoufth pride and interest stiQ pro«- duced burials in the churches. The relics of the poor, however, were transported^ without scruple, from the ancient cemeteries into vast and profound stone-quarries out- side of the City : and, during the Revolution, even the asylum of a church did not preserve human bones from sacrilege ; those which belonged to the prince and the peasant finding, in the stone-quar- ries, a common ^ave. During 1804, the French Government em- powered the friends of the De^ ceased to erect monuments to their memory in the cemeteries ; a cir- cumstance which quickly changed the aspect of these chambers of death. The handsomest, and by much the most interesting cemetery in the environs of Paris, is that of P^re Lachaise; where lie united Jews, Infidels, Roman Catholics, and Protestants, forming one com* mon dust. Near the entrance of this Cemetery, on the right, is the Tomb of Abelard and Heloisa, which once adorned the Mus4e des Monumens Franfais: and here likewise are the Tombs of Molidre, Lafontaine. Delille, Madame Cot* tin, the Abb£ Sicard, Marshal Massena, Marshal Lefebvre, 4^.

Near the Barrihre dEnfer, un- der a spot called La Tombe Isoire^ is a Funereal Receptacle of another description. Nothing above ground announces this abode of melan*> choly, which lies amidst vast stone quarries, and is denominated The Catacombs^ fi-om the resemblance it bears to burial places so called at Rome and Naples. Since the year 1786, this spot has been the receptacle for all the human bones which, during several ages» were accumulating in the cemete- ries and suppressed churches of Paris. A dark Staircase, just wide enough for one person, and pene- trating ninety feet under ground, leads to the principal gallejy ; on the right and left of which, ajre

28 ENVIRONS OF PARIS. [Ch. I.

Vaults of great extent: and that Sh>res. This village, which is

strangers may not lose themselves very near S. Cloud, contains the

in tms labyrinth, a black line is celebrated Manufacture of Porce-

traced on the roof, through the lain, long considered as the most

whole course they are to pursue, beautiful m Europe ; together with

Rocks jutting out, here and there, a collection of Ancient Pottery,

relieve the too great uniformity of Delft Ware, &c. &c. The Show-

this gallery ; which leads to ano- rooms of the Sevres Manufactory

ther, containing a model of Port axe open to the Public every day.

Mahon, made oy an old soldier Versailles, This is a fine Epis-

who worked in the quarries, and copal Town, four leagues distant

was, at length, crushed to death • fi-om Paris, land contains about

by an enormous stone, which fell twenty-eight thousand inhabitants :

upon him while he was forming a its Boyal Chdteau was despoiled

staircase. Picturesque and terrific and deserted, during the Revolu-

rocks next meet the eye, and lead tionary Government ; but is now

to a Vestibule ; at the end of which repaired. Its Ceilings merit nor

is a black door ; the entrance to a tice ; its Chapel, the last work of

eallery where millions of human Jules Hardouin Mansart, contains,

bones are placed in straight lines in the Vestibule, a fine basso-ri-

between the. pillars which support lievOy by Pvyet, representing Alex-

the'pondei;QUis roof of the cavern, ander and Diogenes. The Salon

This gallery leads to several Apart- dHercule is ornamented with two

ments lined with bones, variously paintings, by Paolo Veronese ; the

arranged ; and containing numer- Great Gallery is one of the most

ous Inscriptions : and above half magnificent apartments in Europe ;

a mile from the entrance to these the Orangerie contains a tree call-

Catacombs, is a portal through ^d ** Le grand Bourbon^"* yiYi\(i\i is

which visiters are conducted back more than four hundred years old ;

to the upper world ®. the Water-works are celebrated ;

Tlie environs of Paris contain a and the Bains dApollon contain

variety of objects that merit notice, some good Sculpture, by Girardon.

the most prominent of which are The Chateaux of Grand Trianon

the following. and Petit Trianon, (both in the

S. Clovd, The furniture of this Park,) are objects of curiosity ; Royal Chateau, situated about two and the public Library of the town leagues firom Paris, on the road to deserves attention. Versailles, is splendid and ele^nt. Persons who visit Paris, at the The Ceilings display fine paintings, present period, wiU find that al- by Mignard; and some of the though it has gained much, since Apartments are adorned with Go- the Revolution of 1799, in point of belins, and Beauvais Tapestry, and wealth, convenience, and external magnificent Porcelain Vases fi*om grandeur, it has lost much, with the manufactory at Sevres. The respect to society ; there being so Park of S. Cloud particuQarly me- great a difference in political opi- rits notice on the three Sundays of nions among the Parisians, main- September when a FSte is held tained, by each party, with such there : and during these days the firmness, that social intercourse is Cascades and Grand Jet d'eau play almost destroyed : indeed, the very from three o'clock till five'. character of the People seems

(0 Wax-liehts for the Catacombs may be in the annals of France for the bloodless Re- purchased at No. 90, Rned'Enfer. Strangers volution of the 18th Brumaire, (November are accompanied by a Guide. 10th, 1799,) which placed Napoleon at the

(/) S. Clood will always be remarkable bead of the French Cfovemmfnt.

ROUTE TO THE SIMPLON.

de aeur by which they nere once the French N&tioti have need, at

distin^iahed, has given pl&ce to present, to depend on alms for

thoughtfulness, gravity, and re- their support. An universal spirit

serve. They have, however, paid of industry seems to pervade the

England the compliment of adopt- lower orders of society, not only

inshertaste,withres{)ecttolayintr in the Metropolis, but throughout

out gardens, shrubberies, &c. they France; and pleasure, even among

have likewise profited by her the upper rsinks of Parisians, is

SricultiiraJ knowledge ; and also no longer the sole occupation of

opted many of her modes of life. life.

Paris, like other parts of France, It would be uncandid not to add

has been cleared within the last to the foregoinjc remarks with re-

twenty-tive years, of that multi- spect to Paris, that this Town fur*

tude of importunate Mendicants mshes more conveniences for Tr«-

who, in former times, filled her Tellers than ai it

streets ; and, if we may judge by Europe.

SWITZERLAND, THE SIMPLON,

Uiseblcaa'-.ScnA—Joigny — A»tm — S t»l FwuiKbluD— S, Bri>— aroltoei of Arc] Lncy-le- Boil— Ronmj— Pai t.de-Piinr— II

ExcaniiA tsCblUIll»luulllhllUll^^Bluc1— DsHripdaBorUieMilitiirrRoul rroin nncri, Ud OTir ths Simplon. u Uoma-d'OiKiU— Lien Msg^n—BaniHiMU lilsidi— ColgMtl Statuii or S.'CarUi Bomimeii— DmripEion of the Roiid from Snts-CilniJc laUiUa— Triumpli*! Arch LnMndM u a l*tinio»tion lo the Simplon-toii— Mil»o— DHcriplion of rhtt City— MoniB—Lodl—Pimc mil— DsKTiplion o( Ihul Cily— Rttgift-MwIniB— Do«.iptioB of OiatCitT— Culil-Fnnu— Bologiii— DncriptioB of (bit Citf uditi EsiiroiK— Stall ol the Read betwoes Bolntna ud Pk]reiu»— VoIhihi Deu Pietruiila— CooDtry nnnd PloniiH — Approach (a tbst Cilj.

Frow the latter end of May till the Seine not &r distant; traverses

commencement of October, the the Ecolle at Ponthierv ; passes

following Route, thtough Dijon, is through the Village or Cha^;

usually taken, by persons who, on and then enters the extensive Fo-

leaving Faria, wish to see the Mill- rest of Fontwnebleau ; than which

taiy Ro: poleon,

Road, made by order of Na- nothing can be more picturesque,

on, over the Jura-Alps, and nor, in some parts, more gloomily

the Simplon, to Milan'. magnificent. On each side of the

Beyond Paris this Road crosses road are lofty grey rocks, clothed,

the Oree by a fine Brii^; passes eventotheir summits, with beeches,

through the Village of Essonne and other deciduous trees ; andthe

seated on the Juine, with the richnessof their foliage, contrasted

(■) B«tire« Aninmo ud PoliinT tb« ooe of Ibobett londi inPrMo.. n™""'*"

io>d i.. g.«c.Uj •pabnK, b«l .flcr » «.- ro>d. in Pnncr, ^r^'-^'^A^Ti^

tinuiK* of wtl weathMi IhoMh fnno tbo inM«Umcew.th IbMO »< SmiM""" ""

tettar rod of Uvf UU OeUber, it onallr I* ttalT-

dO FONTAINjEBUiAU-^SBNS, *c. [Ch, IL

ynih the rude and barren appear-? Agendieum, contains f leven thon<- ance of the huge and shapeless sand inhabitants ; is seated at th^ masses of stone in which they vege- confluence of the Yonne and th«  tate, exhibits one of the most extra- Vanne, anjl ^loircled by handsome ordinary scenes imaginable. About Promenades, and ancient Walls, the centre of this singular Forest which deserve notice. Its Cathedral stands the Town of Fontaine- is adorned with Hwe Fainted Glass j bleau ; where the H6tel de la Ville namely, two Roses, the one repre-t de Lyon is a comfortable, and not senting Heaven, th^ other Piu-gaf an extravagant Inn, a circumstance tory ; (these are placed above th9 worth recollecting at a Place famed two side doors of the Church;) for the rapacity of its innkeepers ^. and the windows in the Chapels of The road, from Paris to Fontaine- S. Eutropius, and N. D. de l-o* bleau, is paved, and well kept ; and retto, whjch were executed by J". the Royal Chateau in the last men- Cousin. The Chapel of S. Savi* ' tioned town merits notice ; as it nien contains a^ excellent repr)^<» contains, magiiiiicent Apa^ments sentation, in stucQO, .of a Curtain ; beautifully Painted in Arabesque ; and in the centre of the Choir is a splendid Furniture ; fine specimens Monument, by Coustou, erected to of Sevres Porcelain ; and some the memory of the parents of the few good Easel Pictures ; among present King of France, and em- which is the blessed Virgin and In- bellished with Statues of Religion, fant Saviour, S. John, and Ehza- Immortality, Conjugal Love, and beth, by^Haphael. The Gallery Time* whose mantle covers the contains a Sust of Henry IV, said Daupnin's Urn, and seems ineady to be the best likeness extant of to envelop that of the Dauphiness ; that great Prince ; and in the same she being alive when this monu- apartment are busts o? Francis I, ment was begun. Thi^ cypregs Sully, Washington, and the eele- wreaths are remarkably well exe- brated Duke of Marlborough. In cuted ; and the statues of Time this Chateau likewise is a Small and Religion are admired, espe- Mahogany Table on which Napo-' cially the latter ; but the shape of leon signed his Abdication ; and the monument wants elegance *. still bearing marks of a pen-knife On quitting Sens the road crosses it wa^ his custom, while thinking the Vanne ; and traverses a valley deeply, to strike into the desk, or watered by the Yonne ; the grace- table he wrote upon. ful sinuosities of which rivjer, com- Fontainebleau is supposed to bined with the vineyards on its contain nine thousand inhabitants, banks, greatly embellish this part Beyond this town the road displavs of France. After passing through scenery not unlike parts of the an avenue of iofiy poplars to Ville- Pyrenees, as far as Fossard; neuve- sur- Yonne', (a pretty To'Wn thence proceeding, bythe side of the containing a large, and judging Yonne, to Villeneuve-la-Guiard *, from the outside, a handsome Pont- sur- Yonne, and Sens; be- Church,) it proceeds to Villeval- tween the two last of which places lier; and thence, through a bold the country is rich in vineyards. and picturesque country, to Joi- Sens, once the Capital of the gny ", anciently /ov^m'acww ; built Sennones, and called by Csesar on each side of the Yonne, and

(K) The Grand Hdtel BritttnniquSt at Fon- some years sinpe a comfortable Inn ; bat is

taioebleau, is well spoken of. not so at present.

(0 A good Inn here ; The Hdtel de la (/) The Hdtel de la Pottey at Villenett7e-B^'

Souche. Yonne, appears to be a good ina.

(k) The best Hotel here is I' Ecu. Tie (m) A good laa here ; The H4tel dtt ea^

Hotel de France, formerly £a BouteilletWM Minatr^^

Ch. II.} JOmNY^AUXERRV; See, 91

jQined together by a haadsomQ Bris is Vermaaton*; twokaguet

ISridge ; the circumstance, perhaps, south of which, are the celebrated

from which it may derive its mo- Grottoes o/Arcy; and either from

dem name". The Chateau here, Vermanton,orthenextPost,(Luc};-

erected by Cardinal de Gondi, com* le-Bois,) it is practicable to visit

mands an extensive view; and the these Grottoes ; which contain fine

adjoining Church of S. Jean con- Stalactites ; but cannot be seen

taans a curious Sarcophagus ; on to advantage without the aid of

the cover of which is a recumbent torches ; and are, during winter, ftill

figure, apparently designed to re* of water, and at all times damp'.

present our Saviour; while, sur* Vermanton is seated on the right

rounding three parts of the Sarco- bank of theCure; and from thisTown

phagus, are statues which, owing to about one league beyond Luey« 

to their situation, appear gigantic. le-Bois *, the road, unless very often

From Joigny the road proceeds repaired, becomes bad after heavy through Bassou to Auxdrre", the ram. A New Branch, from Lucy- ancient Autissiodorum, which is le-Bois to Avallon, has, however, seated on the lefc bank of the been lately added to the road ; and, Yonne, and contains twelve thou- though longer, it should always be sand inhabitants : it stands, like preferred to the old route ; because all the large towns in this part it is harder, and smoother. Hav* of France, amidst wide-stretching ing passed Avallon S which is plea* vineyards ; and but for the ex- santly situated on the banks of the treme ugliness of Gallic architec- Cousin, and contains about five ture, when uncorrected by Italian thousand five hundred inhabitants, ta^te, might be called a handsome the road lies through an uninterest- City. Its public edifices were ing country to Rouvray** thence considerably injured during the proceeding, by the side of the Revolution; its Cathedral, how- Cousin, and then crossing the* ever, merits notice, and contains Serein, on the way to Maison* fine Painted Glass. The ^Gothic neuve% and Vitteaux on the Bren- Churches of S. Pierre, and S. nC, which contains two thou* Germain, likewise deserve atten- sand inhabitants : from Vitteaux it tion ^ as do the Quai-Cond6, the traverses a hilly country, embel-* Quai-Bourbon, and the Prome- lished with vineyards, to La Cha* nadesP. leur> called ** Mai nommie" from

The road between Fontainebleau being a very cold Place ; hence it

and Auxerre is paved in some proceeds to Pont-de-Pany, without

places, weD kept throughout, and displaying any object worth at-

peculiarly exempt from steep hills : tention, except a Chateau, once

out, between Auxerre and iS. Bris, magnificent, but now reduced to

it becomes hilly, and continues so ruins : and beyond this Ch&teaa

for several leagues. Beyond S. is pretty Alpine scenery, which

- («) ThreeVreat roads meet at Joigny, (one (r) A earrtage may be hired of the nost*

of which is the direct road to the Siuiplon,) ma«rer at Vermanton. to convey Travellpn

another cause perhaps of its modern name. to tlie Grottoes and back a^ain; for six off

(o) Here are gnotl inns, Le Leopard^ and eight francu ; according to the number of

V Hotel de Beaune ; the former is particu- persons conveyed,

larly comfortable; the latter very good. (s) Lucy-lc- Bois^ contains no inn except th€

(p) The vineyards of Tonnere and Aux&rre Post-house, which is very nncomfortable.

are celebrated for the qnali-ty of their fruit: ^ (t) Two inns, Le Lion d'Or^ audita Vill€

they contain about seventy-two thousand tie Dijon.

acredi, which produce annually, upon an ave- («) Inn, VHMel de la Poster and nemark-

rage, one million eight hundred thousand ably good. ^^

bottles of wine. This wine however is in- (t?) Inn, ia Po«*e, and tolerably gooa.

ferior to that of Chablis. (w) Im, La Potle, and good.

(q) VUdtel d4 S. mcholat bere i« a toUr^ ably good inn; and there are others.

32 DIJON— DOLE— POLIGNY. [Ch. II.

continues the whole way to the Mountains; and on entering the

Post-house* at Pont-de-Pany, a next Town, Genlis, passes, on the

Bridge thrown oyer the Ouche, right, a Chateau belon^ng to the

near the head of the Canal of Family of the Comtesse de Genlis,

Burgundy. Hence the road pro- so much distinguished in the li-

ceeds for a short distance between terary world by her writings for the

rocks and mountains ; and then use of young persons. Genlis is

traverses a fine country to Dijon, a pretty Village adorned with neat

This City, anciently Juibio, the houses, and a handsome Bridge

Capital of Burgundy, and sup- thrown over the Norge*. Hence

posed to contain about twenty-two the road . proceeds to Auxonne,

thousand inhabitants, is well situ- which contains ^ve thousand in-

ated between the rivers Ouche and habitants ; and where a new stone

Suzon ; but suffered so much from Bridge is now building*. A battle

tiie late Revolutions that few of was fought in this neighbourhood,

its pubUc edifices escaped injury ; between Napoleon's troops and the

except the spires of S. Beiii^e, Allies ; and bones of men and

and S. Jean, the former of which, horses were not long since suffi-

three hundred and seventy-five ciently discove]:able to mark the

Paris feet in height, is called the field of action,

finest piece of architecture of its The road is hiUy to the next

kind in Europe. The latter does Post, Dole; that Town, built on

not measure quite three hundred the Doiibs, was once strong ; but

Paris feet Since the restoration Louis XIV, demolished its fortifi-

of the House of Bourbon, Dijon cations : its College, one of the

has been repaired and improved: finest in France, its Promenade,

its Museum contains a fine Pic- called Le Cours, and the Canal

ture of the Holy Family, in of the Rhine, merit observation:

which the Mother of the blessed and near Dole are remains of the

Virgin is introduced ; a fine Pic- Ancient Roman Road which ex-

ture of the Magdalene at the foot tended from Lyon to the banks^ of

of the Cross; and several works the Rhine ^ On quitting Dole,

of the modem French School, the road passes over a fine stone

which outstep nature, and are. Bridge, recently erected ; and after

consequently, unpleasing. The crossing the rivers Doubs, Clause,

Promenade du Cours merits notice ; Louve, and Cuisance, and tra-

and on that Gate of the Town versing a long and beautiful avenue

which leads to Pont de-Pany is of poplars terminated, each way,

a Plaster Car of Victory, erected bv a bridge, arrives at Mont-sous-

in honour of the Boiu-bons ; but v audrey ; " thence descending, not

crumbling fast away. Commerce rapidly but almost constantly, to

appears to flourish at Dijon ; antf Poligny, amidst com fields and

wines, and eatables, are particu- vineyards.

larly good here : but the climate, Poligny is situated at the extre-

to persons who suffer from a cold mity of an extensive plain near

and cutting wind, is ungenialy. the source of the Glantine, and at

Soon after quitting this city, the the base of the Jura : it contains

road displays a view of the Jura- between five and six thousand in-

(*) The Post-house at Pont-de-Pany is a habitants ^ The road constructed,

"n^er^e^^rrseveral inns : the H6tel ,u p W «-' ^^ *'^o^^' ^'^*^'^' '^ ^^ ^»«' '^

rll^k^i rJfX^ f^ **"*'• I^ ^^^'^ *' '* (c)*Mont-80us.V8udrey is celebrated for de-

'r^ wll'^*'^"/.^!;^ ?T*?dt?>n, licUi white wine, calleJ Vin d'Arboii,

ffi f^^ "?"«£5w± ^Arf^'.r. 1 C«0 Here are two inns, VHdtel dc Qenhe.

/

/

Ch.II.] - JURA-MOUNTAINS. 33

by order of Napoleon, over the through wild and sublime scenerr, Jura-Mountains to Greneva, com- the road reaches a romantic Vu- mences immediately beyond Po- kge, called Maison-neuve* ; be- ligny ; and presents notning likely yond which, to the left, among to alarm IVavellers, so far as woods of peculiarly beautiful firs, Morez ; but between that Town are rocks worth notice, on account and Les Rousses it would be ren- of their whimsical shape. Farther dered much pleasanter, and indeed on is another village, and a fine much safer, by the addition of grazing country bounded by woods, parapet walls. which extends to thePont-ae- Leme, The base of the Jura is covered and S. Laurent**. The road firom near Poligny with thorns, briers, Champagnole hither is excellent ; goosebeny bushes, beech- trees, and, generally speaking, a graduid and enormous rocks of granite, ascent: and the winter snow no The commencement of the ascent sooner begins to disappear, in this exhibits bold and beautiful Alpine country, man the heoges and pas- scenery, together with a magnifi- turages are adorned with such a cent view of the vast and fertile variety and profusion of beautiful plains of France: while not far flowers as no other part of the distant from Poligny are pictu- Alps can boast, resque Ruins of a spacious Con- Quitting S. Laurent the road re- vent, seated amidst rich vineyards, crosses the Leine ; and proceeds and encircled by luxuriant woods, amidst cottages and pasturages to Having reached the summit of the a Gallery cut through woods of first ascent, and passed Boreau, beech and fir, and terminated bv a where the rocks are strikingly fine, plain. Hence is a descent of five the road traverses a comparatively miles to Morez, a considerable tame country to Champagnole ; a Town, seated on the river Bienne» Town of considerable size, situ- and close to a brawling torrent, ated on the right bank of the called Le Bief de la Chaille, in a Ain«. Much of this Town ap- valley so narrow as merely to ad- pears recentiy built ; as do ttie mit two rows of houses and the greater part of all the towns, vil- street which divides them ; while lages, and pretty detached cottages, the surrounding mountains rise on the Jura-Mountains^ At almost perpendicularly, like walls Champagnole the road crosses the of a stupendous height, and g^ve Ain; thence proceeding through Morez the appearance of being a country adorned with rich pas- entombed in the lowest dell of the turage, cottages, villages, and Alps. It contains some good woods, to a magnificent Gallery, houses, together with twelve hun- cut through the side of lofty rocks dred inhabitants ^ clothed with firs to their sum- Hence the road proceeds to Les mits : opposite to this Gallery rise Rousses, by a steep ascent parallel woods and mountains still more with a noisy torrent, and between elevated ; and in a deep dell runs immense rocks, above which tower a. torrent whose waters, at the the Mountains of Rezoux, and the Bridge of Dombief, form a beau- Dole^, resplendent with snow ; tiful Cascade. Continuing to pass while the near prospect presents

(e) Here are two small inns, The Hotel de Travellers might breakfast or dine; bat it ia

Qenevet and The Hotel de Lyon ; at either of not a sleeping place.

which Travellers might breakfast or dine ; (h) Inn, Iai Po$te^ and very comfortable,

but botb would be comfortless sleeping places. n) Inn, La Potte, and very comfortable.

C/) Champagnole, and its Manufactory for (*) The D61e rises 3948 Paris feet above

■pinning iron, were consumed by fire in 1798. the level of the Lake of Geneva 5 and is on« 

and shortly after rebuilt. of the loftiest summits of the Jura-Aips,

(fi) Mftison-neaye contains an Iiut where

34 GENEVA. [Ch. II,

Alpine trees, shrubs and flowers, which bears its name ; and di- This road, for some miles beyond vided into unequal parts by the Morez, is too narrow to be per- Rhone. It possesses fewer public fectly safe, either in the dark, or btdldings worth notice than al- after heavy rain. Les Rousses most any other large cit^r of Eu- contains the frontier Custom- roi)e : but this deficiencjr is coun- house of France ; where, how- terbalanced by the fine views from ever, on quitting that kingdom, its Ramparts, and the peculiar IVavellers meet with no detention, richness and beauty of its envi- From Les Rousses the road tra- rons ; which boast a considerable verses severalvallies to La Vattay; number of handsome Villas, and thence proceeding to Gex *, through a great variety of delightful walks, a magnificent Gallery, which rides, and drives. The Public Li- passes under an Arch hewn out brary, open every Tuesday mom- of a granite rock ; and has, ing, from one o'clock tin three, for near a mile, an Upper Gal- merits notice ; as it contains rare lery, made to catch the earth and and curious Books, together with stones which are continually fall* an ancient Roman Shield of SU- ing from the more elevated parts ver, adorned with bassi-rUievi, of the Alp. On the. descent stands and found in the bed of the Arve, the Fbntaine Napoleon, bearing during the year 1721". The Hy- an inscription almost obUterated. draulic Machine which supplies

This side of the Jura is embel- the fountains of the Town with

lished with luxuriant pasturages, water, likewise merits notice",

neat cottages, and fine woods of The Leman, or Lake of Geneva,

beech and fir, which clothe its anciently called Lemanus, is com-

summits : but what particularly ar- puted to be about nineteen leagues

rests the attention of Travellers, m length, and between three and

on descending toward Gex, is a four in breadth at the widest part,

prospect, abruptly presented to near Rolle : it abounds with fine

their view, of the Pays de Vaud, fish ; and its banks are said to be

the Lake of Geneva, and the stu- visited by forty-nine kinds of birds,

pendous Glaciers which surround ' The object generally thought

it. best worth notice in the immediate

Having passed Gex, and the vicinity of Geneva is Voltaire's

villa once belonging to Voltaire at Villa at Femey ; which house,

Femey, the road enters Geneva; since the death ofits first owner, has

crossing, in that City, two Bridges had many masters ; but they have

whose arches are bathed with the all deemed it sacrilege to change

waters of the Lake, which, under any thing ; and consequently the

the appellation of the Rhone, furniture remains the same as

continue their course through when he died. In the Hall is a

fiance to the Gulph of Lyons. large Picture composed by Vol*

Greneva, said to contain near taire himself, and executed by a thirty thousand inhabitants, and wretched artist whom he met with anciently a strong town belonging at Femey. In the fore-ground to the Allobroges, is delightnilly stands this celebrated Poet, hold- situated on the immense Lake ing the Henriade; which he is

([) Best inn, Les Balances. latter of which, the dinners are well served.

Cm) The Library belonging: to Paschoud, the beds good, and the charges moderate : but

h la grande Rwt No, S05, where most of the the smeUs in this house render it unplea*

European newspapers may be found, contains sant.

a laTge collection of books. The Hotel <FAnpletem, at Sechexon, about

(n) The best Hotels in the city of Geneva a quarter of a league from Geneva, is one of

are JLes BcUancesy and L*Ecu de Qeneve : at the tba most oomfortahle inns en the oontiaeat

Ch.IL] CHAMOUNL U

presenting to A^llo : ih the back- Persons desirous of seeing the ground is the temple of memoiy, celebrated Valley of Chamouni, toward /which flies Fame, at the together with as much of Mont«  same time pointing to the Hen- Blanc as is practicable during the riade. The Muses and Graces are earfy part of Summer, should hh«, surrounding Voltaire, and seem in at Genera, for three days, an open the aot of carrying his Bust to the four-wheel earriages with ftrar temple of memory : the heroes and horses, setting oiit, on the first heroines of the Henriade are morning, at five o^clock, for 8. standing astonished at his won- Martin, a drive of seven hours and derfiil taints : the authors who a half p. The road to Chamouni, wrote against him are falling into almost immediately beyond Ge- the infernal regions; while Envy neva, enters 8avoy; and is smooth and her progeny are expiring at and good. The ascents and de- his feet. The faduly of Galas like- scents are mdual ; the country wise is exhibited m this picture, abounds wim com, vinevards, and The hall leads to a Saloon, oma- fixdt-trees; rosemary and barberry- BEiented with a Bust of Voltaire, bushes growing in and near the and a Design, in China, for the hedges; and meches mixed with tomb of a lady supposed to have firs crowning ^e heights. At the died in child-birth, but who was, distance of mdf a league flrom Ge* in fact, buried alive : it represents neva the road passes through the lady and her child bursting ChSne; and about one league through the tomb; which is broken tother on presents a view of the by the artist in so natural a man- Saleve, the Chetteau of Mourner, ner, that one feels ready to ex- and the hiU andCh&teaaofEsery: cl»m ; " What a pity it is that it then crosses the Menoge, a river this beautiful monument has met which rises at the base of the with an accident.'* In Voltaire's Voirons ; traverses the villages of Bed-room are Portraits of his Nangy and Contamine, and passes Friends, and the Vase wherein hiff near the towering ruins of the heart was placed before its re- Castle of Fossigny. Travellers moval to Paris. This Monument usually stop to bait their horsea ia of black marble, plam, but neat ; and take refreshment at Bonne- and immediately under that place ville ; the next village, or more pro- which contained tiie heart, is perly speaking, the first Town on written ; " Man esprit estpartouU this route, containing a consider- ed tnon comr est iei, Over the able number of houses, and two Vase is writtMi; ** Mes manes Inns; eiHier of which can ftnmish 8ont consols putsque man meur a good break&at and delicious ho^ est au milieu de t>ous .* allusive ney. Beyond Bonneville the road (it is to be presumed) to the sur- crosses the Arve on a stone Bridge rounding portraits of Frederic the five hundred feet long ; passing Great of Prussia, Le Kain, (the through the small Town of Cluse, French Roscius,) Catherine II, of and then traversing the delightful Bussia, and Madame de Chastelet. Valley of Maglan, rich in com. Tins room also contains Portraits vineyards, and firuit-trees, ena-* of Voltaire, Milton, Newton, and mellied with flowers, and eneircled other distinguished Characters. by enormous and fantastically

(«3 A Swiss cabtiolet, called a 6har-d- tion is uncli less fati^aing ffean a char^

hanCi ia a cMiyenknt carriage for this exeur- ha»e,

slon; because it can go the whole way to (p) The gates of Geneva are not op^^ed

Ohamoatii j which, a coach, or post-chaise, tiff a short time- before Bim-ri«e ; and they

onuot t teal » cwriime of tbe latter deiorip- are shut at ten o'clock in the fevemng.

D « 

3d CHAMOUNI. tCh. II-

shaped Alps, crowned with woods Not far beyond S. Martin the of beech and fir, and exhibiting road crosses the Nant Sauvage; wild and picturesque scenery. The a dangerous torrent when swoln Alps graoually increase in mafni- with rain : generally speaking, tude as the road advances ; while however, the road, though rough, the glens gradually become nar- is safe : but the aspect of the rower. About three-quarters of country between S. Martin and a league beyond Mr^lan, on the Servoz, particular spots excepted^ left, is a fine Cascade, called Nant is wild and gloomy ; though here, d' Arpenas, faUing from a height of and indeed throughout this whole eight hundred feet; and shortly excursion, the innumerable flowers, , aner passing this spot, the road intermingled with barberry and presents a view of Mont-Blanc ; rosemary-bushes, eive life to the which continues to exhibit its aw- scene. On approaching the village ful and stupendous beauties , the of Ch^de the road crosses another whole way to Chamouni. Leaving delicious plain, and passes through on the right the town of SaUenche, several hamlets, which, in times of seated near a noisy torrent at the civil discord, afforded shelter to base of cultivated mountains, above the ancient Homans. The mag- whose lofty summits rise pyramids nificent Cascade of Chede is about of eternal snow, Travellers usually a quarter of a league from that drive to S. Martin ; which is fur- Village : and the Lake of Ch^de, mshed yvif}^ good Inn, The HStel situated near the road, though de Mont'Blanc, containing a con- small is pretty ; and serves to re- siderable number of beds, and fleet on its bosom the majestic commanding a particularly fine summits of Mont- Blanc; which is view of that part of the Mountain easily distinguished from its neigh- denominated the D6me du GouU, hours by feng the only triple- This Inn likewise contains a small headed monster among them. Cabinet of Natural History for On approaching the beautiful sale. valley of Servoz, it is impossible ^ IVom S. Martin, or the oppo- to contemplate without awe the ate Town of Sallenche, to Cha- ruins of an Alp, which, in its fall, mouni, is a journey of between six menaced this luxuriant spot with and seven hours ; which can only destruction ; insomuch tnat the be accomphshed by walking ; by inhabitants fled precipitately ; riding on a mule, or by going in a though not quick enough to pre- char-A'banc, TVavellers, there- vent some of their children from fore, deposit their Geneva carriage being crushed to death : and the and horses at S. Martin ; sleeping dust produced by rocks thrown there; and usually proceeding next violently against each other, led day, at a very early hour, to Cha- persons at first to imagine that mouni. this terrific crash of nature pro- The hire of a char-drbanc is ceeded from the eruption of a vol- about eighteen frtincs per day : cano. Travellers usually break- the hire of a mule about seven fast at Servoz ; a small Village, francs ; and the fee to each Guide containing one solitary Inn, some- six francs. The Guides, both at what like a hedge alehouse of S. Martin, and at Chamouni, are England; but where good honey civil, intelligent, and careful ; but, and eggs may be procured, and nevertheless, their wish to gain likewise good coffee. Beyond this money makes them sometimes per- village the road crosses a stream suade Travellers to be adven- called the Servoz ; and then, after turous. passing the Arve on a picturesque

Ch. IIJ CHAMOUNI. 37

Bridge, exhibits, to the ri^ht, ruins vellers are sometimes disappointed

of the Chateau de S. Michel ; and, on seeing it.

to the left, an Abyss^ where, em- The Botanist and Mineralogist

paled between rocks of the most may find ample amusement at

sombre hue, interspersed with fir- Chamouni : and here, as at S.

trees, flows the Arve ; forming Martin, there is, for sale, a Cabi-

a scene sublime even to horror, netof Natural History; containing

After ascending some way by the Minerals of Mont-Blanc and S.

side of this Ravine^ the road at Gothard, Seals, Necklaces, <^.,

length enters the far-famed Valley made of the crystal of Mont-Blanc ;

of Chamouni ; passing the 61a- together with Insects and Plants

ciers of Taconay, and Bossons ; indigenous to the higher Alps,

and presenting a distant view of The honey of Chamouni is excel-

the Glacier of Bois ; then travers- lent.

ing the torrent of N agin, the ham- Every part of the Valley presents let of Ouches, the torrents of Gria, a view of Mont-Blanc : this gi- Taconay, and Bossons, and like- gantic Alp, primeval with a world wise the Arve, previous to reaching whose several changes it has auietly Chamouni. witnessed, is said by Mons. de Luc This town owes its existence to to be fifteen thousand three hun- a Convent of Benedictines, founded dred and three English feet, and in 1 099, by a Count of Geneva : by Mons. de Sausstte seventeen but the Valley in which it stands thousand seven hundr^ Paris feet, might probably have been unknown above the level of the Mediterra- at the present period, if two Eng- nean sea ; and the crust of snow, lish Gentlemen, Messrs. Windham on its sides and simimit, is sup- and Pocock, had not, in the year posed to exceed four hundred feet 1741, discovered it; and given to in depth. The first persons who modem Europe details respecting reached the top of this stupendous a place which even the natives Mountain, appear to have been of Geneva, though only eighteen Jacques Blamat of Chamouni, and leagues distant, had never heard Doctor Paccard : they went in the of. It is situated three thousand year 1 786 ; and were followed, in one hundred and seventy- four feet 1 787, by Mons. de Saussiu'e, and above the level of the Mediterra-t an English Gentleman. Dining the nean sea ; and contains tolerably early part of Summer, it is almost good inns *». impossible for any person to tread ■ The verdant clothing of the sin- in their steps ; or even to reach the ^ar Valley of Chamouni is beau- Montanvert ; which leads to the tifuUy contrasted with cloud-capped Mer de Glace; the path, at this mountains silvered by eternal snow ; season, being usually clogged with gloomy forests, chiefly composed snow,, and at the same time threat- of firs ; cottages and hamlets scat- ened by avalanches : but persons tered here and there ; brawhng who ascend the Chapeau, a giddy- torrents ; and rocks of porphyry ing eminence opposite to Montan- and granite, interspersed with gla- vert, can see the Mer de Glacet ciers of a dazzling whiteness ; although they cannot reach it. whence rise sea-green pyramids of Travellers, in order to ascend the ice which, when flluminated either Chapeau, should provide them- by the sun or moon, exhibit a pro- selves with the customary walkin^- spect unique and wonderful : but, sticks at Chamouni (which are six nevertheless, so muchhas been said feet in length, with a sharp iron in praise of this Valley, that Tra- spike at one end ;) they should then

(9) The new Inn is neat and comfortable.

98

CHAMOUNL

[Ch. II.

go in a t^r-drbane tiirough the plain of Chamouni: but or ar-r riving at the ascent to Uie Chapeau, where the camage^road terminates^ it is necessary to go on:mules^ At length, hpwever, the path becomes so rug^;ed, and the ascent so very steep, that riding is no longer prac- ticable : and Travellers are conse- quently compelled to dismount, and walk, (aided by their Guides,) on the edge of terrific preci- pices, and through a path so ex- tremely rugged, that nothing but the spiked walking-sticks, with which they are directed to pene* trate the ground at every step.

eould prevent accidents. On at- taining the wished-for height, the Mer de Qlace presents itself to view ; though not that part which displays an unequal surface; but the smooth margin, whence de- scends an immense Glacier: and having attained this height, the Traveler should pause, a full half hour, to listen to the noise of dis- tant and near Avalanches, rendered doubly audible by the stillness of the scene; and likewise to con* template the extraordinary appear- ance of the Glacier, which can be compared to nothing but a narrow and tempestuous ocean, whose tow-

(r) PerMos who risit Chamouni at the pixy- and beine far more exalted than her attend-

per season for ascending the MontanverU ants, vei^' in the heavens, which she seems to

shonld engage careful and judicious guides ; prop, a part of her sublime and maiestlc beau-

•ad likewise hire a porter to carry cold pro- ties. From the AferdeO^oce Travellers usually

risions and wine. Ladies sometimes go part reascend the Montwuvert^ and dine either at

of the way in chaites-droorteur ; for each of VHopital de Blair^ or La pierre des AuglaU ;

which it is requisite to nave six chairmen ; an immense block of granite, so called be-

but good walkers had much better trost to cause Messrs. Windham and Pocock, in 17^1,

their feet. piade it their dinner-table, after they had pe>

, It being a work of full three hours to ascend netrated, without a guide, into these unknown

the Montanverty and then descend to the Mer i-egions. Hence is the descent to the Source of

4e Olacey it is advisable to set out from Cha^ mouni by seven in the morning. Fpr about one league and a quarter, there is a safe mule* road, passing tiirough forests of firs, which exhibit traces of ancient avalanches, enormous

the Arveront through the Chemin det Ckemres ; a short but extremely rugged path; on par- suing which it is not uncommon to see ava- lanches fall from the surrounding mountains, and pyramids of ice tumble with a tremendouf

blocks of granite, and laige trees laid pro- crasn and roll to the bottom of Monianvert^ ■trate; but on entering; a narrow and rugged, at whose base is the Sottrce of the Arveron ; path, called Le Cheimn des CryttcUlierSy it is after examining which, TraveUers usually re- no longer practicable to go on mules : here, mount their mules, and return to Chamouni. therefore, these animals are usually sent back The inhabitants of this country are well- to the Source of the Ameron. The view near looking, sensible, honest, and remarkably s little Fountain, called le CcUUetf merits no- fearless. The woods are peopled with rab- tice; as the Arve, in the plain beneath, ap- bits, white hares, martens, andermin98; the poars,from this elevated spot, like a thread; rocks with marmots and the sagacious the Bourr like card-houses; and the fields chamois. These animals live together ia and meadows like the squares o^ » ehess- flocks : and generally feed in valleys where board, or beds in a flower-garden, embellished no sportsman can penetrate ; while a few are with various shades of green. Beyond this constantly detached from the main body a* fountain the road is excessively steep and scouts ; and others perform the dutj of sen- rugged, though not dangerous ; and after pass- tinels. The courage and agility with which ing the Hdpital de BUur^ built by an English the chamois leaps from precipice to precipice, Gentleman of that name, the Traveller is and scales rocks almost perpendicular, should

S resented with a sight of the Met de Qlace ; teach the boldest Alpine Travellers not to

) reach which, occupies a full quarter of an feel vain of their achievements, hour; and persona who venture to walk upon Perscms who wish to vary their route back

its surface should be especially careful to io Geneva, may return by the Col de Balme ;

avoid the cracks and chasms with which it from whose summit the Valais, the Rhone,

abounds : the colour these chasms assume is the great and the small S. Bernard, the pas-

a beautiful sea-green ; and the waves of this sages of the Cenis and the tSimplon, S. Gothard*

frozen ocean, which from the top of Montan- and the Alps of Berne and Unterwalde, are

verf appear like furrows in a corn-field, are all discoverable ; while the sublimity of this

BOW discovered to be hillocks from twenty to extensive view is spreatly heightened by a

forty feet high. The Mer de Qlace is eight near prospect of Mont-Blano and her sur-

leagues in length, and one in breadth : and on rounding !Needles. Travellers who return by

its margin rise pyramidioal rocks, called Nee- Six, SamoCns, and Thonon, may embark upon

dies, whose summits are loBt in the clouds; the Lake, and proceed to Geneva: but going

they likewise are denominated the Court of all the way bj land, the distance is fifteea

their augnst Sorereign, Mont-Blanc; who leagues. * glitters on the opposite side, ia stately repost {

Ch. n.J ROUTE TO THE SIMPLON/ 39

ering waTetf have been sudden}^ Thchion, the ancitot Capital of

rendered motionless, by an alL* the Duchy of Chablais, is plea*

powerful hand. santly situated: the Site of ita

The journey from the Hotel at Castle merits notice ; and at a

Chamouni to the CJutpeau^ and small distance from the Town ia

back again, occupies about three the Convent of Ripuille \ Hence

hours and a half. Persons, there- the road proceeds to Evian, cele-

fore, who make this excursion, re- brated for its Mineral Waters ;

turn late to Chamouni ; and after then crosses the Dranse on a long

having written their names and narrow bridge, apparently of Ro'-

their remarks in " the Travellers' man construction, and after pass-

Book,** which is a curious medley, ing within view of an old Castle

they usually rest a few hours, and surrounded by picturesque woods,

then set out very early next mom- conducts the Traveller to the brink

ing^for Geneva. of the Lake, shaded by walnut and

fVom Chamouni to Servoz, the chesnut-trees ; the Town of Morge

drive occupies about three hours being immediately op^posite, and

— ^from Servoz to S. Martin, three that of Lausanne within sight'

and a half— from S. Martin to Proceeding by the side of the L&e,

Bonneville, four — ^and from Bonne- the road reaches the rocks of Meil-

viUe to Geneva, three and a half, lerie "^ ; where it is cut through

The price charged for dinner masses of stone two hundred feet

at S. Martin, and Chamouni, is high, which tower, on one side,

five franes a head — ^for beds two above the Traveller, whilst, on the

francs each — ^and for breakfast^ other, rise two wsJls; ibe first

two francs and a half per head '« serving as a parai)et, the second

The Military Koute, leading from strengthening the foundations of

Greneva to the Simplon, passes theroad, and preventing them from

through Cologny, traversing a rich being injured bv the Lake, on the

plain, boundS Dy the Jura-Moun- bed of which they rest. Near S.

tains on the ri^ht, and the Lake Gingouph a Gorfi;e in the moun-

of Geneva, with its stupendous tains, discovers the Source of the

glaciers, on tiie left ; and after Amphion ; whose mineral waters,

crossing a Bridge, which marks already named, enrich Evian. Ve-

the limits of the territory of Ge- vay is seen on the opposite shore,

neva, enters Savoy; displaying a S. Gingouph belongs to the Va-

view of a finely situated old CastlCi lius; and the Post-house, (a good

and likewise of Mont-CenUy and inn) is delightfully situated near the

great part of the lofty phain to termination of the Lake, where it

which that gigantic Alp belongs, loses itself in the Rhone. Imme-

Beautiful landscapes, formed by diately beyond S. Gingouph, are

the Lake of Geneva, the Pays de pretty Streamlets, which, as they

Yaud, and the plains of Savoy, trickle down the rocks, form them-

l^esent themselves on the way to selves into crystallizations : and

Thonon; whither the road winds between the next Post (Vionnaz)

through a country abounding with and S. Maurice is a Wooden

com and vineyards ; while the Bridge, curiously constructed, with

bold and varied outline of the a Roof, and thrown over a pecu-

Alps, gives peculiar grandeur to liarlynois}^ and rapid torrent; soon

the scene. after crossing which, the road pre-

(») From Chamouni to Martigny there is a (0 Inn at Thonon, La Balances, and, as a

mnle-path nine leagues in distance, which sleeping place, not eomfortable.

leads to the arandS. Bernard. («; A tish, caUed the Lotte o/Moitlene, is

much admired by Epiwres.

40 ROUTE TO THE SIMPLON. [Oh. II •

sents a view of the Rhone, adohied in no way get thither but by leap- with bold overhanging rocks, and ing, or rather flying upward. Not shaded by rich foliage ; while in far distant from the Pissevache is . the fore-ground rises a magnificent the Pont du Trient, where a Ri- Stone Bridge, two hundred feet vulet issues from a remarkable long, and constructed by the Ro- Chasm between two Rocks ; the mans. At one end of this Bridge sides of which, thus divided by the is a Tower, now converted into a stream, are quite perpendicular, and Chapel ; and at the other end a nearly twelve hundred feet high. Castle, through part of which the Martigny, seated at the entrance road to S. Maurice has been cut, of the Great Valley of the Rhone, and made to pass over a Draw- where the roads from France, bridge. S. Maurice stands in a Italy, and Chamouni meet, was a wild and beautiful situation, at the well-built and flourishing Town, base of a long line of rocks ; some till nearly destroyed by a sudden of which are formed into habita- and dreadful inundation of the tions : this Town contains a cu- Dranse ; which occurred not long rious Mosaic Pavement ; and not ago. Liberal subscriptions, how- far hence the Theban Legion was ever, from the benevolent inha- massacred by order of the Empe- bitants of the neighbouring coun- ror Maximian '. tries, have enabled the people of The first part of the road be- Martigny to re-build several of tween S. Maurice and Martigny their houses, which were thrown presents no striking objects, except down and swept away ; and like- the Dent du Midi, and the Dent wise to repair other ravages cause4 de Morcles; two Alps which rise by the inundation. There is an seven thousand feet above the old Fortress here, separated from level of the Rhone ; and at a dis- the Town by the Dranse ; which tance Mont- Velan, and Mont- issues from the adjacent mountain Valsoray, which make part of the of S. Bernard, and unites its wa- group of the Grand S, Bernard, ters with those of the Rhone near and rise more than ten thousand this spot. The Valley of the .feet above the level of the sea. Rhone is the most extensive in Amidst this Alpine solitude, the Switzerland ; as from the Alps of road passes the bottom of a mag- La Fourche, where it commences, nificent Cascade, called the Pisse- to the Lake of Geneva, where it vache, and formed by a river, (the terminates, is thirty- six leagues. Salanche,) falling from an im- Two excellent Wines are made mense height, though not above near Martigny, the one called an hundred feet perpendicularly. Coquempin, and the other La This Cascade is illummated in the Marque : a great variety of rare forenoon by the sun ; and displays Plants may also be found in this all the colours of the rainbow ; neighbovu-hood ^, The commence- but after twelve o*clock these ter- ment of the road between Mar- restrial rainbows cease ; while the tigny and Sion is bordered by ste- river seems transformed into a rile rocks and mountains ; but the brilliant sheet of gauze, with which face of the country soon changes, it veils the rocks from whose sum- displaying pasturages, vineyards, mits it rushes. Report says that, villages, rivers, picturesque ruins at the top of this Cascade, are fre- of ancient castles, and distant Alps quently found trout, which could blanched with eternal snow.

(v) S. Maurice contains a remarkably good arande Maisotit and Le Cygne; the latter to*

inn« VHbtel de V Union. lierable. (w) There are two inns at Martigny, La

Ch. II.J ROUTE TO THE SIMPLON. 41

Sion, anciently Sedunwn^ and Rhone, traverses the Forest of in German, Sttten, the Capital of Finges, passes the Town of Leuck; the Haut-Valais, and built partly (behind which, opens the Gorge of on the right bank of the Rhone, the Dala, and part of the lofty and and partly on the river Sitten, is a sterile Mont-Gemmi ;) and tnence very oldr Swiss Bishoprick; and proceeds to Tourtmagne; the contains several Convents, six approach to which displays a view Churches, a Hospital, and an Ho- of the whole chain of Alps cen- tal de ViUe. The Town stands on necting the Simplon with S. Go- the declivity of three hills ; each thard : but the country, as the crowned by a Castle ; in the lower- Valley narrows, becomes marshy most, called Mayoria, or Meyer- and barren. Within half a mile of bourg, the Bishop usually resides : Tourtmagne *, thouffh not in the the second is denominated Valeria; high roaS, is a Water-fall, less and the third, called Tourbillon, magnificent than the Pissevache^ contains portraits of all the Bishops but more beautiful in point of si- of Sion since the year 300. Se- tuation. From Tourtmagne the veral Roman Antiquities are dis- road proceeds to Viege, (in G«r- coverable in this town ; among man Visp, or Vispacky) standing which, and near the great door of on the banks of tne Visp, a river the Cathedral, is a half-effaced equal in size with the Rhone ; and Inscription in honour of Angus- beyond a bridge thrown over the tus *. Above Sion, to the right, Visp towers the summit of Mont- and seated on rocks difficult of Rose^ an Alp very little inferior access, are the Castles of S6on in height to Mont-Blanc. From and Montorges ; objects particu- Viege Travellers usually go to larly calculated to attract the Brigg ; for though Glys is the re- attention of a Landscape Painter : ^lar Post, Brigg, a Post-town, and on the opposite side, in the likewise, is the better place to Commune of Brumes, is a singu- stop at, and not more than half a lar Hermitage, comprehending a mile out of the great road. Per- Church and Cloister, with several sons who go from Viege to Brigg Cells, all hewn out of a solid rock, pass Gambsen, and the entrance Near Sion flows the river Merges, to the Valley of Nantz ; crossing which divides the Haut from the a torrent, called the Saltine, near Bas-Valais. Through the former which, the country is marshy; the road proceeds to Sierre, one of and then traversing the bed of the the prettiest Bourgs of the dis- Rhone on the way to Brigg*, (or, trict ; but its inhabitants are par- as it is sometimes spelt, Bryg,) ticularly liable to goitrous swel- one of the handsomest Towns of Hngs ; owing, it is said, to the the Haut-VaJais, and situated op- unwholesomeness of the water posite to the base of the iSeVwp/on ; they drink '. German is the Ian- the lower part of which is covered guage spoken at Sierre, and with luxuriant meadows, inter- throughout the Haut-Valais, Be- spersed by fruit and forest-trees, yond Sierre the road crosses the oratories, and cottages ; while the

(x) Le Lion d'or is a good inn ; and La strain, given to the throat, by an over-bnrden

Croix Blanche, though less good, is tolerable, carried on the head.

(w) Women, who carry heavy burdens on (x) In German Turtmann. Here are two

their heads, are generally afflicted with this inns, Le Lion d'or^ and Le Soleil ; the former

malady ; not only in the neighbourhood of of which, though small, is clean and com-

the Alps, but in other situations, where the fortable. .

heirht of the mountains is comparatively (o) The Hotel tTAngleterre, at Brigg, m « 

moderate : and probably, therefore, goitrous comfortable inn. swellings may sometimes originate from a

42 PASSAGE OF THE SIMPLON- [Ch. II.

heights are adorned with her- out of solid masses of granite, is mitages, cascades, and woods of five : and so gradual, on both fir. sides of the mountain, is the in- To the left of Brigg is the pretty dination of the road, that to drag Village of Naters, watered by the the wheels even of heavy car- Rhone, which descends from the riages is needless. The work sununits of the Fourche and the was conducted on the side of the sombre vallies of the Axe. This Haut-Valais by French Engineers ; river receives, in the vicinity of and on the Italian side by the Ca- Brigg, the waters of the Saltine ; vahere Giovanni Fabbroni* ; who, which issue from the Simplon ; though long distinguished for de- together with those of Kelchback, voting his eminent abilities to the which descend from the Bellalp service of his country, in this in- and the Blatten. The adjacent stance exceeded himself; as be- mountains abound with deep dells : sides other fearful impediments, and to the north rise the rocks of he had great difficulties to sur- Nesthom, and part of the upper mount, even in the soil ; for he Glacier of Aletsch. was compelled to pierce through, In order to appropriate an en- and blow up, some of the hardest . tire day to the passage of the rocks existing; while the French Simplon, anciently called Mons Artificers, generally speaking, met Ccepionisy or Sempronii, and one wilh no obstacle, except masses of of tibe loftiest of the Italian Alps, slate, in many places already de- Travellers usually sleep at Brigg ; composed *. This is the only and set put, witni the dawn, next passage of the Alps which human morning. The journey, either labour has made practicable for from Glys, or Brig^ over the heavy ammunition-waggons and Simplon, to Domo-D'Ossola, a artillery : and when we contem- distance of fourteen leagues, com- plate the stupendous height of the monly occupies about twelve Simplon, the numerous and ap- hours. This Passage of the palling precipices with which it Alps, planned by Napoleon, in abounds, the impetuous torrents 1801, was finishea in 1805, at the which deluge its declivities, and joint expense of the kingdoms of the tremendous avalanches by France and Italy*: its breads which woods are frequently rooted throughout is twenty-five Paris up, and rocks overthrown, we feet ; the number of Bridges thrown cannot but acknowledge that men across the rocks is fifty ; and the who, in defiance of obstructions number of Grottoes, chiefly hewn such as these, could form a road

(It) The AntfaoT of this Work has passed from German Switzerland and the Hant-Va- the' Simplon three times ; namely, in May, lais into the Milanese, it has always been the 1817; in Jane, 1819; and in October, 1884; track pursued by the Milan Courier; thourh twice trayeUing en voUwrier, and once goiof frequently at the peril of his life : for the Post : and the number of hours employed in earthquake of 1755, which destroyed Lisbon, erossinK this Alp, was each time tne same, nearly blocked up this passage of the Alps ; , From Brieg to the Barrier the asoent occu- so Uiat Napoleon found it needful to employ ' pied nearly six hours; and thence to Porno three thousand men, between three and four D'Ossola the descent occupied about fiye years, in constructing the new road, hours and a half. From Domo D'Osiiola to the (cO To this gentleman Florence owes the village of Simplon the asoent occupied seyen celebrated anatomical wax-work, which en- hours ; and thence to Brigg the descent occn< riches Uie Museum of Natural History in pied nearly five hours. that city; though the inyention was ascribed

The most favourable season for passing the to the Gay. Fontana.

Simplon is between the middle of June and (e) The quMitity of gunpowder used in

the end of October. During winter, car- blowing up the roeks^ to form the road on the

riayes are usually dismounted, and put into Italian side of the Simplpn, is said to baye

traineauXf if the snow be deep. been 17f50O ponndi.

(c) As this is the shortest practicable route

Ch. II.J PASSAGE OF THE SIMPLONl 43

exempt ereii from the appearance are small Inns, meant to shelter of dai^er, capable of braving the men, cattle, and carriages, in case most FLirious storms, resisting the of sudden storms, and numbered* ^ant hand of Time, and conduct-* " Ist Refuge,** '* 2d Refuge," &c. mg human beinjj^s, cattle, and an appellation particularly well everv kind of carha^, quickly and chosen, as its meaning is the same safely, through regions of eternal in almost every modem language, snow, deserve, in point of genius. The openings of the finrest, and ue to be ranked hot only wiUi, but sinuosities of the road, present even above the ancient Romans; beautiful views of the Valley of whose YTQiks of this description the Rhone, encircled by snow- can, in no instance, vie with the crowned Alps ; their gigantic Em«  descent from the village of Sim** press, Mont- Blanc, proudly tower* plon to the vale of Domo-D*Os- mg above them all ; and, in con^* sola : and yet, to the shame of the sequence of her immense height^ nineteenth century, nations inimi* appearing near, though really far cal to France attempted, at the distant. Beyond the second Re* close of the last war, to destroy fuge are fine Cascades, and what the parapet walls, and bum the is called, the first Gallery; though bridges ; in short, to annihilate in fact the whole Passage mi^t the road : happily, however, these properly be denominated a con- acts of barbarism have hitherto tinned series of serpentine galleries done no very material mischief; and grottoes, rising one above ttie but unless the Glacier Gallery, other, and united by stupendous and grotto, together with the ad* arches of the most chaste and ele- jacent heights, be cleared of snow, gant construction. Beyond the toward the commencement of every first Gallery is a Bridge, eighty summer, uid the water-course» feet in height, thrown over the kept open, (as was the practice Kanter ; ana so built that it cannot during the reign of Napoleon,) receive any injury from the annual this eighth wonder of the workl, melting of the wmter-snow ; there this universal benefit to Europe, being, at certain distances, cavi* will ultimately be rendered useless^, ties, through which the water dis-> Travellers going from Brigg, charges itself, without hurting the pass, on the right, one of the &si work : and the same judicious plan worics of the Passage of the Sim- has been pursued with respect to plon, a Bridge thrown over the Sal- all the arches, parapets, and found- tine ; and consisting of a lofty and ation-walls. This part of the road beautiful single arch, covered at is cut through crumbhng rocks; the top, to preserve from rain the and in order to prevent the loose timber of which it is composed : fi-agments above from falling upon they likewise pass, on the left, a the Traveller, broad Galleries are Chapel, with several small Orato- made in the upper part of these ries leading to it ; and then ascend, rocks, to catch whatever may be by bold and beautiful windings, thrown down by tempests, oas- through a gloomy forest of firs, to cades, and avalanches ; while the the first and second Refuge. These road itself is supported b)r a strong edifices, placed at short distances Wall of granite, varying in height, from eacn other ih the most ex- according to the inequs^ties of the posed situations on tiie Simplon, ground it rests upon, and in some

(/) In conseqiiMiM of the snaw'not haTinr of June, 1395; and some TraTsUera who

l>eeB cleared away «t the oommencemeBt ol trere going post through this Orotto, at the

summer, a gmall Avalanche fen from the moment, narrowly escaped being crashed to

heights near the Qlacier Orotto on the sixth death.

44 PASSAGE OF THE SIMPLON. [Ch. II-

places measuring two hundred feet, to the Village of Simplon, throujgh

On the left of the Bridge thrown a dreary country studded with

over the Kanter is. a particularly blighted firs, and watered by fine

fine Cascade ; beyond which stands Cascades and a brawling torrent ;

the third Refuge ; where Travel- one part of which, flows into

lers, in case of necessity, might Italy; the other irrigates France,

sleep. This part of the road ex- by forming a ramification of the

hibits larches mixed with firs, Rhone.

two Bridges, (those of Oesback and Simplon^ a little hamlet encircled

the Saltine,) and a Grotto thirty by the summits of the enormous

paces in length; to the left of which Alp whose name it bears, is situ-

is the Glacier of Kaltwasser ; ated three thousand two hundred

whence descend four Cascades, and sixteen Paris feet above the

whose waters are conveyed under level of the Mediterranean sea ;

the foundations of the road (in but neither here, nor even while

Aqueducts of a masterly construe- passing the Glacier Grotto, and the

tion) and then precipitate them- heights beyond it, (which are four

selves into chasms below. thousand six hundred and ninety

Continuing to ascend, through Paris feet above the level of the

easy, bold, and beautiful sinuosi- Mediterranean sea,) do Travellers

ties, the road reaches the fifth Re- often suffer fi^om cold : and even

fuge ; which stands on an eminence, during bleak and stormy weather,

exposed to violent gusts of wind, the Simplon may be crossed with

Here trees cease to flourish ; impunity ; so well sheltered is this

flowers no longer enamel the soil ; wondernil Passage,

and an Avalanche has rooted up The commencement of the de-

the blighted firs and larches, and scent to Domo-D'Ossola displays,

suspended them on each other over on each side, lofty and barren

the yawning abyss beneath. A rocks, with a considerable space

long and dreary Gallery leads firom between them, occupied by pas-

this picture of desolation to the turages and stunted firs, and wa-

Glacier Grotto, fifty paces in tered by the same impetuous and

length ; immediately beyond which noisy torrent which is seen firom

is me most elevated point of the the heights : but not far distant

whole passage. Here only* that is, from the Village of Simplon these

previous to entering, and after hav- rocks graduafiy approach each

ing quitted, the Glacier Grotto, the other ; becoming perpendicular,

road is less good than in other and scarce leaving sufficient space

places ; not, however, owing to for the road ; which, by means of

any radical imperfection, but Bridges, is carried over the Lowi-

merely because the Cantonniers back, and Kronback, till it reaches

neglect to clear away the snow «. Steig ; where the union of the

At a short distance fi*om the Gla- Kronback and the Quima, (which

cier Grotto stands the sixth Refuge, descend the Glacier of Lavin,

called The Barrier;, below which, through a Gorge in the rocks to

on the right, is the ancient Hos- the right,) form the river Vedro,

pice, now peopled by Monks be- whose wil^ and i^pid course the

longinff to the Grand S. Bernard, road follows till within a short dis-

From the Barrierthe road descends tance of Domo-D'Ossola. After

(jf) The CantonnierSj instituted by Kapo- Voitariers p&T ten francs per horse.

leoQ to keep this route in repair, hare been (h) The viUage of Simplon is celebrated for

cruelly reanced in number by the King of delicious trout; and contmns a yery good inn,

Sardinia; although the tax, imposed for their The Pott-house, maintenaace, is still paid at the Barrier.

Ch.II.] LAGO MAGGIORE- 45

passing through a ver^ narrow hovr, and at others foaming into ravine, and crossing the river seve- gulphs, which can only be com- ral times, by means of stupendous < pamL with the Chaos of Milton, Bridges, the road is carried through and the Inferno of Dante. This a Grotto eighty paces in length ; awful and appalling Gorge extends beyond which is the magnificent to Divedro ; a place said to stand Cascade of Frissinone; whose at the height of one thousand seven waters precipitate themselves from hundred and eightv-two Paris feet a rock so loftv that they seem lost above the level of the Mediterra- in aether beiore the^ reach the nean sea ; but situated on a fer- foamingbedof theVedrOyWhichre- tile, and indeed a pleasant spot, ceiyes them. After passing this Cas- notwithstanding^ the savage aspect cade, the road eilters anouer Grot- of the mountams by wruch it is to, — a stupendous work, — ^it being encompassed K From Divedro the two hundred and two paces lon^, road descends into another wild lofty in proportion, and cut, wiui and narrow Glen, called Val- Vedro, exquisite taste and skill, through crossing the torrent twice, by means solid rocks of granite. On emerg- of Bridges, and then passing ing from this Grotto, a sudden turn through the last Grotto, (eighty in the road presents another mag- paces in length ;) and proceeding nificent Cascade, formed by a tor- to Crevola, where it again crosses rent, which issues from the Gorge the Vedro by a Bridge, considered of Zwischbergen, falUng perpen- as a master ^piece of architec- dicularly, and with such clamorous ture. On the approach to Domo- violence, close to the traveller, D'Ossola, the rocks and mountains that no person can witness this gradually recede ; giving place to scene without feeling, for a mo- villages and vineyards ; wnile the ment, as if it would be impossible to rich, extensive, and highly culti- proceed. Below the gloomy ham- vated plains of Italy present them- let of Gondo is a chapel, which selves to view, and form a delight- marks the Italian confine ; and at ful contrast to the sublime and Isella, a little beyond the chapel, terrific scenes exhibited in the de- is a Milanese Custom-house ^ scent from Simplon. After quitting this sombre hamlet. After sleeping at Domo-D'Os- ai\d passing fturough a small Grot- sola, which contains good inns ', to, the ro^ enters the still more Travellers usually pursue the great sombre Gorge of Isella, empaled Military Road to Baveno, on the by perpendicular mountains, from Lago Maggiore ; embarking there, whose summits fall Cascades ca- in order to visit the Borromean pable of deluging the road, were Islands, on the way to Milan ". they not conveyed, by means of The Lago Maggiore, some- wells, into the bed of the Vedro ; times called Lago Locarno, and which, swoln and agitated by these anciently Verbanus, is reputed tributary streams, rushes furiously ' to be about fifty- six Italian through enormous fragments of miles in length; about six in dissevered rocks; sometimes ex- breadth; and, toward the centre, hibiting all the colours of the rain- about eighty fathoms deep. The

(0 The Cttstom-house oi&cers here exp^eet («) Boats are always in waiting at Baveno

two or three francs per carriage ; on receiving to convey Travellers to the Borromean I slands,

which, they never examine trunks. and the Lake of Como : the price of a boat for

Ck) Divedro contains a wine-house ; and in the former expedition beinfj four livrea per

other parts of the descent are Refuges, which rower; and the time requisite for seeing the

miffht, in case of necessity, shelter Travellers. IsUnds about five houra. . ♦«i««v,

CO The Hotel d« la VUle, and the UUel The Post-kouie, at Baveno, w a tolerably

46 BORROMEAN ISLANDS. [Ch. H.

picture presented by this Lake is From Isola Biella^ Travellers

. enchanting ; its banKs are adorned usually embark for Sesto-Calende ;

by forest- trees, olives, and vine- landing, however, by the way, at

yards ", interspersed with hamlets, Arona ; and then walking about

white as snow, and enriched Vdth three quarters of a mile, through

ViQas remarkable for the elegance a lovely country, to see the cele-

of their construction : on its sur- brated Colossal Statue of S. Carlo

face rise three small Islands; Borromeo; which was executed

two of which, Isola Bella, and in bronze by Zonelli, measures

Isola Madre, contain palaces and an hundred and twehre feet in

gardens belonging to the family of height, reckoning the pedestal, . Carlo Borromeo: the tmrd, and is erected on a hill, which Isola Pescatori, is inhabited chiefly overlooks Aronli, the birth-place by fishermen. Isola Madre, situ- of S. Carlo ; who is represented ated about half a league from the as ^ving his benediction to the shore, consists of four gardens, or Manners of *the Lake. This is rather terraces, rising one above one of the tallest statues now the other, embellished with luxu- existing in Italy ; and so gigantic hant flowers, shrubs, and forest- are its dimensions that the head trees ; and crowned, by a palace ; • alone would hold four persona which contains Landscapes by seated round a table '• Tempesta*. At Sesto-Calende Travellers re- Isola Bella, about one mile dis- join their carriages, which go by tant from Isola Madre, consists of land to Belgirata' and Arona, and eight terraces, rising one above the then cross the Ticino in a pont-vo* ottier, carpeted witti flowers, re- lant, at the entrance of the &st freshed by fountains shaded with named Town. Sesto is beautifully forest-trees, and crowned with a situated on the Ticino, at the com- noble Palace ; which contains mencement of the Plains of Lorn- Paintings by Tempesta; a flne bardy; and persons who like wat^- Bust of S. Carlo Borromeo, by carriage may go from this Town^ Franchi ^ ; and a suite of Subterra- or even from Fariolo*, to Milan, nean Apartments t&stefidly fitted in the boats of the Lago Mag- up, to nnitate a series of Grot- giore^ The Military B^ad pro- toes ; and, for a summer abode, ceeds through a dehgntfiil country delicious^. to Somma ; passing, on the left, a

(n) The vines here are freouentlj trained Island, return to the Great Road, drive to the

round trees, the branches of which are so dis- foot of the hill adonied with the statue of S.

posed as to resemble baskets. Carlo Borromeo, walk np the hill to examine

(o) Tempesta, after having: murdered his the statue, and then pursue the Great Road to

wife, in order to marry a prettier woman, took Sesto. The Bridges thrown over the torrents,

refttffe here. the imnaense number of Aqueducts which con-

(p) S. Carlo Borromeo is universally ac- vey streams of water under the foundations

knowledged to have been a peculiarly benevo- of the road into the Lake, and the massive and

lent CharActer; one of his family, was as lofty Walls which at once secure the road,

^notoriously wieked : and the rest, though and prevent the Lake from overflowing, are

worthy, in the common acceptation of the well wocth notice; and cannot be seen by

word, were not in any respect distinguished ; persons who embark at Baveno, and proceed

a eircnmstance which occasioned the follow- by water to Sesto

ingremark— •' That one Borromeo belonged {$) Belgirata oontains a good inn, L* Alber- to Heaven, another to Hell, and the remainder go Borromeo.

to E"th-" , . . , , (Q The first Town on the Lago Maggiore.

(a) This Island contains an Inn, famished («) Public boats go from Sesto to Milan

with clean beds ; and where good dinners may every morning, between the hoan of five and

be procured, at four francs a head. seven, and take passengers at one paul a

CO Instead of embarking at Baveno for the bead. Private boats, large enough to contain Borromean Islands, Travellers frequently pur- a carriage, may be hired at Baveno for twenty- sue the great Military Road to a ferry, not far eight, or, at most, thirty fraoes, .to go down distant ; cvoss tkenc« to Isola Bella, a very tlN Lago Magf^ore ta Sflsto* short Toyage; and, after having seen that

Ch. II.] MILAN. 47

Cypress-tree of extraordinajymaff- highly creditable to the talents of nitude ; and, according to traoi- Cagnola, under whose orders this tion, planted before the Christian work was begun, era. Scipio*s first battle with Han- Milan, in Italian Milano, and nibal took place near Somma. anciently denominated MeMola* Hence the road passes through nvm, (supposed to have been GaUarate and Cassina-Buon-Gresu founded by the Grauls, five hun- to Ro; presenting nothing worth dred and ninety years before the notice, except the Church ofNos- Christian era,) is seated on a pe- tra Signora de^ Miracoli, at the culiarly fertile spot, between the last mentioned place. The inside rivers Adda and Tieino ; and inter- of this Church is adorned with sected by three Navigable CanaJs» Paintings, by Procaccino, &o. and one of which extends to Pavia. does honour to the taste of its Milan contains an hundred and architect, Tibaldi. The facade, thirty ^ousand inhabitants; and erected by PoUach, is adorned with may be called a handsome Town ; Baisi-ruievi ; one of which repre- though its buildings, in point of sents the Salutation, and the other architecture, are, generally speak- the Presentation in the Temple, ing, defective : its climate, during The country between Ro and Mi- winter, is damp and cold ; in sum- Ian is flat, well cultivated, and mer, extremely hot ; and frequently adorned by acacia and tulip-trees, damp and unwholesome in autumn which flourish here with peculiar and spring^. Its Duomo, or Ca^ luxuriance, though several of them thedral, tiie largest Church in hikve lately been supplanted by Italy, S. Peter*s excepted*, is an mulberries. But the greatest or- Itahan Grothic Ediflce of white nament of the approach to Milan, marble, begun in the year 1386 ; tiie Triumphal Arch, Intended as a but the exterior was left unfinished termination to the avenue of the till the reign of Napoleon, who Simplon-road on one side, and as ordered it to be completed after a decoration to the Forum on the the designaof Amati : and though other, is, alas, imfinished ; though much nas been. accomplishMl, enough of this magnificent work much still remajjlirift undone when may be seen to convey an idea of the Emperor of Austria resumed what the whole would have been, the government of the Milanese ; if completed^ Four immense co- it is said, however, that Napo- lumns, each hewn out of a single Icon's plan will still be followed, block of marble, were designed to This Cathedral, in length four support its two facades, the Bases hundred and forty-nine Paris of which are adorned with beauti- feet, in breadth two hundred and ful Figures in basso-riltevo, repre- seventy-five, and in height two senting France, Clio, Calliope, and hundred and tiiirty-ei^ht to the Italy, Hercules, Mars, Minerva, top of the cupola, is divided into and Apollo. In the surrounding five parts, b^ an hundred and sixty Penthouses are deposited stiB columns of marble, and paved finer 5(W5i-7*i72>z7», representing the with the same material. The Achievements of Napoleon, toge- interior ornament of the principal ther with Capitals of pillars, and door is supported by two Columns other architectural decorations, of granite, called Migliaruolo, and

« 

(ti) The irrif ation of the rieefields, with mer being called six hundred and sixtf-nine

which the Milanese abonnds, contributes to Roman palmi in len^^th, and the latter only

render the air, at times, insalubrious. six hundred and six.

(w) According to the measurements in S. A Roman architectural palmo is about mna

Peter's, however, the Duomo at Florence is SngUsh incbM. longer than the Cathedral ,at Milan ; the for*

48 MILAN. [Ch. II.

found in tiie beds of the neighbour- appears to be more than one like- ing lakes and torrents. The in- ness of Napoleon*, terior and exterior distribution of The Church of S, Alessandro the choir were executed under possesses > considerable merit with the orders of Pellegrini ; the Sar- respect to architecture ; together coi)hagusofGian-Giacomode'Me- with good frescos in its Cupola; dici was designed by Michael An- and its High Altar and Cioorio ^ gelo ; and the bronze ornaments are remarkably handsome, were made by Leoni. The Statue The Church of S, Lorenzo, an oc- of S. Bartholemew is by Agrati; tagonal Edifice, (adjoining to which the Cupola, situated in me centre stands another Edifice resembling of the choir, and beautifully an Ancient Bath,) is einbellished adorned with fret-work, is by by handsome Columns, whose Brunellesco ; and immediately un- bases appear to have been origin- demeath, in a subterranean Chapel ally the Capitals of pillars, belong- sumptuously decorated, rest fiie ing, as tradition reports, to a Tem- mortal remains of S. Carlo Bor- pie of Hercules, which once stood romeo, enclosed by a Crystal Sar- near this spot ; and before the cophagus adorned with silver gilt : Church of S. Lorenzo is the only his countenance, part of the nose good specimen of ancient Roman excepted, is well preserved ; his architecture now remaining at Mi- robes, crosier, and mitre, are su- Ian ; namely, a Portico, supported perb ; and Silver Bassi-rilievi, ex- by sixteen beautiful fluted Columns ecuted by Rubini, after the designs of the Coriiithian Order ; with an of Cerano, and representing the Entablature which bears an inscrip- great features of the exemplary tion in honour of the Emperor, life of S. Carlo Borromeo, embel- Verus.

lish the walls of this Chapel. A The Refectory of the suppressed

Staircase, consisting of four hun- Convent of S. Maria delle Grazie

dred and sixty-eight steps, leads to is embellished with Leonardo da

the top of the Cathedral: and it is Vinci's celebrated Fresco of the

impossible to form a just idea of Last Supper : and although this

the exterior decorations of this im- masterpiece has suffered cruelly

mense and venerable marble pile, from time and ill treatment, it is

without ascending to its roofs ; still in sufficiently good preserva-

where alone the spiry fret-work, tion to be highly interesting*,

carving, and sculpture, can be The College of Brera, now the

viewed to advantage. The three Gymnasium, or Palace of Arts and

finished sides of the exterior walls Sciences, contains a fine collection

are covered with Bassi-rilievi, of Pictures ; among which are the

Statues, and Groups of Figures ; following. — First room, (Frescos.)

several of them well executed ; Three Boys playing on musical in-

while every spire, or needle, is struments, by Gaudenzio Ferrario.

crowned with a statue rather larger Second room. The Magdalene and

than life ; and, among these, there the Saviour, by Lodovico Caracci

from\a^n*riff tm ;,!; it^^^nt w r l'"*'? ""^ !??,' ? *^? ™°"^^°? t^" ^^^"^ 5 «»d from three

wJSlfronei aJ^Jx nr «ivpi 1^ Churches are tiU five, in the afternoon. The common fee

usually open at six, or seven, in the morning, at a Palace is from three to fivi» T^anla a*.

ISr^«??'?^„ Jl?*!."?^"" '".'» J!" W The late Viceroy of Italy had a fine

Saanstan of a Church u from one to two copy taken of thU freico; and likewise did

Pri^ie. we „„rily dwwn f«,«. »i,e. „ ori^.al!^' " ^ ""'" *• P"«"* *« 

Oh. II.] MILAN. 49

'—two Pictures of Saints, by Pro- Saviour, ^. in the first maimer of

caccino— the Saviour bearing his Correggio— the Marriage of the

Cross, by Crespi — S. Sebastiano, Madonna, in the first manner of

by Caravaggio— The Saviour and Raphael — ^the Saviour dead, by

the Woman of Samaria, by Anni- Giovanni. Bellino — and a Sketch,

bale Caracci — ^Abraham dismissing by Andrea del Sarto'.

Hagar, by Guercino ! ! I — the Ma- The Gymnasium contains Casts

donna, the Saviour, God the Father, of the finest statues of antiquity;

&c, by Albano — ^Head of the Sa- a well furnished Observatory ; a

viour, by Guercino !— the Madon- good Library ; and a Botanic Gar-

na, the Saviour, S. John, and S. den.

Petronio, (the Patron of Bologna,) The Ambronan Library y founded by ditto — a Dance of winged Loves, by Cardinal Fedengo Borromeo, by Albano I! — ^the Last Supper, by contains above thirty-five thou- Rubens-*-the "Woman detected in sand Printed Volumes, toeether Adultery, by Agostino Caracci — with between fourteen and mteen the Ascension of the Madonna, by thousand Manuscripts ; among Paris Bordone — ^the Ascension of which are those of JLeonardo da the Saviour, by Giulio Romano — Vinci, enriched by his Drawings — the Nativity, by ditto— the Baptism a Virgil, with Annotations by Pe- of the Saviour, by Paris Bordone — trarca, in his own hand writmg — the Saviour dead, by Salmeggia — a Pliny, a Plato, and a Cicero, of S. Peter and S. Paid, by Guido I the second century — and a Jose- First division of the second room, phus written on papyrus, and writ- Saints adoring the Cross, by Tin- ten on both sides of each leaf, toretto — ^the Madonna, the Saviour, This Library likewise contains the and Saints, by Savoldi — ^the Wo- following Paintings — a Holy Fa- man detected m Adultery, by Pal- mily, by Titian — Sketches, by Pie- ma Vecchio — ^the Saviour supping tro da Cortona — the original Sketch with the Pharisee, by Paolo Ve- of the School of Athens, by Ra- ronese — S. Francesco, by Palma il phael, well preserved, and most Giovane — ^the Marriage in Cana of valuable ! ! — ^a fine Copy of Leo- Galilee, by Paolo Veronese — the nardo da Vinci's painting of the ' Saviour dead, by Tintoretto — the Last Supper — ^a Slcetch, by Ra- Madonna, the Saviour, and Saints, phael, of part of the Battle of by Giulio Romano! — ^the Skiviour Constantine! — ^the Holy Family, dead, by Benvenuto Garofolo ! by Bernardino Luini, the contem- Second division. Several curious porary and rival of Leonardo da old Pictures. Third division, Por- Vinci ! — Head of the Saviour, by trait of Solimene— ditto of Anni- Luini — the Saviour dead, by Titian bale Caracci — ditto of Procaccino — Sketches of the Last Judgment, — ^the Madonna and Saints, by by Michael Angelo ! — Sketches, by Pompeo Battoni I — S. Gu-olamo, Polidoro da Caravagjgio, and other by Subleyras — Souls delivered fi-om great Masters — a Miniature of the Purgatory, by Salvator Rosa I — Celestial Regions, by Albano ! I — a large Landscape, by N. Poussin and a Fresco by Lmni, represent- — ditto, by Salvator Rosa — ^the ing the Saviour crowned wiUi Madonna, the Saviour, and Saints, thorns.

by Luca Giordano. Third room. The great Hospital, SLnd the Laz-

The Madonna, the Savioiu*, and zaretto, merit notice ; the latter is

S. Francesco, by Vandyck! — ^the just b^ond the eastern Gate of

Head of a Monk, by Velasquez I the City.

Fourth room. The Madonna, the The Marengo-^Gate, a simple

(a) Among tbia ooUection of Pictures an some beaiitif«l paintings of Game, by Frith.

B

dd MILAK--L6DI. fOk ft.

knd elegant spedm^tt of lotiie ar- Mon2a,abont three leagues north

chitecture, bears the following in- bf Milan, likewise contains a Royal

scription: ** Pact Populorum Sos- Residence, btdlt after the designs

pitce:' of Piermarini ; and another, called

The Amphitheatre, sitnated near Felucca, long celebrated for its

the Forum, is a magniicent Build- Stud of horses. Charlemagne wai

ing, erected by Napoleon, after crowned King of Lombardy, at

tile designs of Canonica ; and large Monza; where, in the Cathedral,

. enough to contain thirty- six thou- is deposited the ancient crown of

sand spectators. The pulvinare, the Lombard Kings, cohinlonly

and the principal entrance of tWs called ** The Iron Crown," because

edifice, especially deserve atten- its inside is lined with some of that

tion*, metal, said to be composed of the

The Theatre of ta Scaia, built nails with which our Saviour was

after the designs of Piermarini, is fastened to the Cross. The out-

deetned, with respect to architec- side of this Diadem is gold, studded

ture, the most beautiful Opera- with precious stones*,

house in Europe J and except the The road from Milan to Bologna

freat theatre at Parma, and that of traverses a luxuriant country, . Carlo at Naples, it is the most which abounds with fields of rice spacious. The stage-decoratiqns andeveryotherkindof grain, vine* luso are splendid and classical ; yards, and streamlets for the pur* and the orchestra is, generally poses of irrigation; and dlsways speaking, the best in Italy : but the perfect neatness, without a single clrcumsiance most creditable to inch of fallow land: this last, how- this, and indeed to every other ever, is a thing rarely seen in Italy, Theatre on the Continent, is that where the husbandman no sooner perfect decorum which enables reaps one crop than another sue- ladies, though unattended, tg go, ceeds. The road is, generallr retmni, and even walk from box speaking, flat, and bordered with to box, without the slightest townsand villages, as far as Lodl} chance of receiving an insult. which stands on an eminence near Milan contains other Theatres ; the Adda, is well built, and con- namely, the Canohiana, in shape tains about twelve thousand inha* resembling La Scala, but less spa- bitants. Its Gates are handsome'; cious; ^AeTeafroiJe; and the Car- and the most remarkable of its cano, built by Canonica. Churches, LIncoronata, was erect- The principal Promenades are, ed according to tiie designs of Bra* the Ramparts; theCorso; and^Ae mante, ana adorned with Frescos Esplanade between the Town and and Paintings in oil, by Callisto, the Forums the pupil of Titian : but what The environs of Milan boast a chiefly renders this Town interest- considerable number of handsome ing is, that at the Bridge of Lodi Villas ; among which is that pre- Napoleon gained one of his most sented by the citizens to Napoleon, memorable victories'. The little

(V) Nanmftchia were represented here in degrees in Edinbargh, speaks Enfrli*1i, and

the time of Napoleon, althocg;h the building cotisiderB hioMeir bandiomelf paid by vtflelf -

was not finished. It still remains incomplete, ing one dollar per visit.

(c) It is lamentable to observe the cban|:e, ((T) From Milan it is' easy to make ftn 6Jt-

from afllnenee to comparative poverty, which cnrsion to Payia, either by l*od or water ;

has of late taken place aaiong tne inhabitants the latter town being only sertn leaguaa dia^

of Milan. The principal Hotels in this city tant from the former.

are The Oran-Bretagna^ The Alhergo Reaie^ (e) The Gates of tiodl are closed &fter it

M14 3^ Bl^tel Hmtae : and now (18S7) there beconiM dark ; bat may, by CIm «ld of » tnaU

resides at Milan an experienced and skilful fee, be qnened.

Physician, Doctor LocAteni, who took M9 (/) The Post-tooM belt ii ft Iftiyt well

Ohap. II.] PIACENZA. 51

pFormce, aivhksh Lodi is the Ca- on the Ceilmg of one of the Cha- pital, usually gives food to thirty pels is attributed to the ume mas* thousand cows; and the cheese ter. Parma has b^n lately en* made here, improperly ciJled Fiur- riched with three celebrated paint- mesan* is most exceUent ings, originally placed in this After crossing the Po in a Cathedral, the In&nt Jesus, fiL \md fearry-boat, the PonUvoUmi Catherine, and 8. Girolamo, by having lieen destroyed by a great Francesco Maxsndla, oaUed Par«  inundation, TraveUers arrive at migianino— 4he Death of the Ma- ]Pi8cenza'. This Town, seated in donna, by Annibale Cairaoci — and a rich and pleasant countiy be- the approach of the AposUes to tween the Po and the Trebia, con- the Holy S^ulchre, alter the Re- tains several objects of interest, surrection, by the same master. The Cathedral, built during the Here ar^ however, the best Copies twelfth century, is enriched witii which could be procured of these good paintings. In its Cupola are paintings. The Chureh of La Ma» Frescos, by Guereino, representing donna delki Campagna contains the Evangelists, with Angels ho- good Pictures : aiid the Chmreh of vmng round them ! Below these the Canomd regolari di 8, Agos* mups are lesser Angels, forming tino, designed by Vignola, the tbemeze ; and stilllower are figures Tbum-Hall, by the same architect, of Sibyls. Franceschinihasrepre- and tufo Equestrian Statues, the sented Virtue, Modesty, Humility, one representing Ranuedo, and and Charity, in the groins which the other Alessandro Famese, bj suppeart the Cupola. Near these Francesco Moca, likewise merit are Moses and Aaron, by Lodovico notice. Piacenza is built entirely Caracci; and three Paintings by of brick; not even its palaces ex* Procaecino ; namely, the Assump- cepted : it contains a pretty Thea- tion of the Virgin — ^David playing tre, and ^ood Hotels'". Here com- on the harp — and S. Cecilia on the mences the ancient Via-Flaminw, vkJonc^a The great Altar-piece, constructed during the Consulate by Procaecino, is aji oil pamting of Lepidus and Flaminius, and of considmihle merit: it repre- leading to the Via^EmiHa, in sents the Death of the Virgin; but Romagna: and not far henoe has been so much injuiid, that flows that memorable torrent ^e the figures are scarce visible. One Trebia, through whose immense of ^e Chapels contains a good bed Travellers pass on their way Picture, by the same Artist of S. to S. Giovanni in the road to Tor- Martino giving his cloak io a Beg- tona.

gar* A small side Chapel is em- At the distance of half a mile

bdlished \rith a good Picture of from Piacenza is a brid^ thrown

the Holy Family, attributed to the over the Po ; with a plain, on the

Caracci-School : and the Church left, watered by that fine river, and

Mkewise contains a Picture of S. the lofty Apennine on the right,

Corrado, by Lanfiranoo, and ano- with villages and farms at its

ther of S. Francois Xavier, by base. Midway to Fiorenzuola the

flamingo ; the Angels in fresco road crosses, oy a stone bridge, a

which surround &e Tatter are also torrent called the Nura ; and then

by Fiamingo: and the ascension traverses the bed of the Larda,

famished inn, and Utely was s priyate p%- (s) Thare is, on tha Piacanxa side of tha

]jiee. Fo, a Custom-liouse, where a small fee ttsualljp

Fiom Lodi there is* raad, by Cremona and exempts Tniv«ller8 from heing searelied.

Mantua, to Bologna : and to the east of Lodi (A) The Albergo delie trc QaiuwCy ^nd d.

k the foad throofh Breseia and Verona to Marco,

Venice. , ^2

52 BORGO-SAN-DONINQ— PARMA. [Ch. IL

always dry in summer; but pro- gianino, painted by those great

vided with a narrow bridge, over artists, and toleriably well pre-

which carriages pass when the served: and on the sides of the

stream is swoln by winter-rain, principal door are Portraits of Cor-

Hence the road proceeds through reggio and Parmigianino, likewise

Fiorenzuola (a small Town, where, painted by themsdves. This Ca-

however, the inns are good*) to thedral contains a Moniiment to

Borgo-San-Donino*=, seated on the the memory of Petrarca.

Stirone, and not far distant from The Church of 8. Giovanni

what are supposed to be the ruins Evan^elista, biiiit- with ms^estic

of the ancient Julia Chrisopolis. simpbcity, contains frescos, in its'

The Cathedral at S. Donino, and Cupola, Iw Correggio ; who has

liie Edifice converted by order of represented the Saviour ascending

Napoleon into an Asylum for the to Heaven in presence of his Dis-

Poor, deserve notice. A few miles ciples I

from this Town stands Castel- The Stoccata, built after a de-

Guelfo, celebrated for having given sign of Bramante, does honour to

its name to the Guelphs, whose the taste of that distinguished ar-'

strife with the Ghibellmes bathed chitect, and is adorned with fine

Italy in blood. Beyond Castel- Paintings ; namely, Moses break-

iGruelfo the road crosses the Taro mg the Tables of the Law, by Par-

by a peculiarly majestic Bridge,- migianino — Sibyls, by the same

begun by Napoleon, and finished master — and Frescos, in the Cu-

by Maria Louisa ; thence to Parma, pola, by Correggio.

traversing a rich and beautiful The Convento delle Monache di

valley adorned with villages and S. Paolo contains a room adorned

vineyards. with Frescos by Correggio; and

Parma, a handsome Town, de- considered as the most beautiful rives its appellation from the river work of its kind he ever executed, by which it is watered: its walls The principal sulject is Diana are between three and four miles triumphant accompanied by G&^i in circumference ; and its inhabit- The Royal Academy (once. the ants are said to amount to thirty- Royal Residence, and a very ex- five thousand : but, nevertheless, tensive building^ contains a newly this City looks melancholy and fitted up Public Gallery for Pic- deserted, tures; some of the finest among

The Cathedral, built with brick, which, are the following. — ^The

like all the other public edifi!ces. Madonna and Infiint Saviour, Mary

the great theatre excepted, is a Magdalene, aiid S. Jerome, called

precious

pola finely painted by Correggio : Martyrdom of Santa Placida, and the subject being the Assumption her Sister, Santa Flavia I — ^the De- of the Madonna; who is repre- position from the Cross ! — ^ttieMa- sented ascending, encompassed by donna and Infant Saviour, with S. Angels, to Heaven, in presence of Peter, S.John, S. Catherine, andS. the Apostles and other Saints ! ! Cecilia I ! — aU five by Correggio — This celebrated work, like many of the Madonna della Scala ! a fr«soo' Correggio^s frescos, is cruelly in- — and S. John crowning the Ma- nured. Over the organ are the donna I a fresco— both by Corre^- families of Correggio and Parmi- gio — ^the Ascension, by Raphad!

(0 La Croce Bitmca is the best 00 S. Donino contains two inns, La Ct9C^

hianccif and L'Albergo del Angelo^

Ch. II.] PARMA— REGGIO. 53

• — >the Deposition from the Cross, of Broiue—StAmps for stamping

by Annibale Caracci ! I — ^two Pic- In-ead — Grecian Vases, ^.

tures, by the same master, (aJready The great Theatre, designed by

mentioned as having once adorned Vignola, and buUt of wood, is the

the Cathedral at Piacenza,) namely, most spacious, and, in pokit of

the Death of the Madonna I — architecture, the most perfect edi-

and the Approach of the Apos- ficeof its kind in Italy: it contains*

ties to the Holy Sepulclure after with ease, from five to six tiiou-

the Resurrection ! — ^The Madonna sand spectators, (some authors say

crowned, a fresco by Annibale Ca- nine thousand,) all of whom can

racci — ^the Saviour, S. Catherine^ see every thing which passes on

and S. Girolamo, (already men- the sta^, and near every syllable

tioned as having once adorned the spoken by the Actors, even thoug^

C/athedrsd at Piacenza) by Parmi- uttered m a whisper. But tms

gianino — the Adoration of the Ma- fine specimen of architecture is

gi, by the same master* — ^the Three now so entirely out of repair*

Manes at the Holy Sepulchre, by that a few years may probably re-

$chidone !— -the Deposition from duceit to aheap of ruins,

the Cross, likewise by Schidone I ! Adjoining to the great Theatre

r-ajid the Espousals of the Ma- is another, ouilt after the designs

donna, by Procaccino. of Bernini, and, comparativ^

This Academy also contains se- speaking, small, as it does not

yeral interestingAntiquities found hold more than two thousaiMl

ix Velleia, a Koman municipal spectators : but the present Sove*

Citjr; which was buried by the reign, Maria-Louisa, is building

sudden fall of a mountain, sup- a new Theatre.

red to have been undermined Parma contains good hotels*,

a subterraneous water-course* Just beyond one of the CHy-

This melancholy event took place gates is the Palazzo- Qiardino^

in the fourth century : and judging embellished with fine fVescos, by

by the number of human bones Annibale Caracci. Nine miles

found at Velleia, when it was ex- distant, on the way to Casal-

cavatedin 1760, there seems rea- Maggiore, is Colomo, a laige

son to ap]^rehend the inhabitants Palace, adorned with two cele-

had not time to escape. Velleia brated Statues ; one representing

was thirteen leagues distant from Hercules, the other Bacxshus, and

Farma ; and some of the most in- both found in the Orto Fameae at

teresting Antiquities with which it Rome.

has furnished the Parma Academy • From Parma the road passes are — a head of Adrian, orifi^i- between neat and luxuriant farms nally gilt, and finely executed- to S. Ilario^ crossing, at the two Latin Inscriptions, written on extremity of the Duchy of Parma, bronze, and said to be the largest the Lenza by a magnificent Brid^, ever discovered— Gold Chains — and then crossing the Crostolo by Brackets — ^Armlets — Rings, ^., another Bridge previous to reach- in the highest preservation — ^to one ing Reggio. This Town, anciently Cham a Medal is attached — ^Am- Bnegivm Lepidi, and seated on phorse — Lachrvmatories — Lamps the Crostolo, is supposed to con- — a Pair of Snufiers, vexy like tain near sixteen thousand inhabi- those usually attached to modem tants. The Cathedral here merits Roman lamps — ^various Ornaments notice, one of its Chapels being

(0 This pictiire is bf some persons attri- (») There is at S. Ilario, a troublesoma

bated to Agostino Caracci. costoin-house ; where Travellan nmally giva

(m) II Faoiut is remarkably comfortable. a fi^e, and have their truuHs plaqkwpi..

64 MODSNA. [Oh. th

ttdomid with good Pictm^eft ; aiid Jhtedle, «L s|dendid Btxnsstm^, o&n^ the Chtirch of S. Fietro is a hand- tains a neble Hall, the Ceihhg of «ome Edifice : but what particu- whi^ is finely painted in Fr^rco latiy renders this place interesting, by Franceseoni ; together with se- ts its having given birth to that veral fine eaisel Figures; among greatest of Italian Poets, Ariosto : which are — ^the Adoration of the indeed the soil seems to h^ve been Magi, by Palma' Gfovani — the prolific of genius ; for between Madonna, the Saviour, and other Eeggio and Modena, not a league figures, W Garlofiilo— the Cruci«  distant firom the road, is Cerre^o, fixion, by Fomaraneio ! — ^the Holy the birth-place of the great painter Fanuly, *by Andrea del Sarto^Hi who bore its name'*. Madonna and Child, by Raphael ! Reggio contains three Hotels p. — Christ giving Sight to the Blind, Passing through Rul»eraS an by Agostino Caracci! — ^theAsoen- old Fortress in bad condition, sion of the Madonna^ by Lodovico (wh^re TYaveUers who arrive after ' Caracci — ^four small Fxetures, by dark find the Gkites shut, and are Aiinibale Caracci I — S. Rooco, by compelled to wait till leave be Gruido — the Crucifiidon, by Gnido obtained for having them opened,) — the Martyrdom of S. Peter, by the road crosses the Secchia by a GhiereiAo t-»-the Marlyrdom of ». fine Bridge thrown over that tor-* Francesco, bv Leonello Spatk^^-^ rent; and then winding within Head, by AH>ert Burer!->— and a View of a splendid Column, ere^ed^ Head or the Madonna, by Carie according to report, in honour of Dole! I The Chapel is adorned Napoleon, enters Modena, anci- with a Paanting of the Circnmei- ently Mutina, a small but elegant sion, by Profi«ecino\ City, situated amidst rich pasixir- Modena contains Public Batiis^ ages, between the rivers secchia a Theatre, a. pubhc R'omenade) and Panora ; and of late yews and several Private Collections <A Qxuch improved. Ilie Gates are Pictures, reported to be upon sale: handsome^ the Ramparts form a and it likewise still contains tlie beautiful Promenade round the Secchia^ or. Bucket, immortality Town ; the streets in general are by Tassoni. Iliis otject, so inte* straight, wide, and clean ; and the resting to lovers of mock heroic Stradarmaestra (part ^ the an- poelary, is now removed from the dent Via-EmiUaJ is magvaficent* Cathedral, where it used to be 'Whe Cathedral contauis a Hoture exhibited, and placed in a neigh- of the Presentation, by Guido : and bouring Tower, under the cere of the Campaniley a marble Edifice, the Municipality; but Travellera is one of the loftiest Towers in may always see it, by applying to Italy. The Churches of S, Vin- the Cmtode of the Tower. cewso and 8. Agoetino merit no^ Modena alPorded an a85dum to tice ; and the rubUe Library is Brutufi, after the assassination of well stored with valuable Manu- Caesar; and is also famous for scripts and rare Editions of Printed having given birth to Muratori> Works. The University has 1<^ Vignola, and the Author of the beent^ebrated ; and the Paktzzo SeceMa Rapita*,

(o) The family name of this distinguished (lO ^^ Albergo Reale is tolerably sood.

ftrtt8t#aB AUeen: lie died soon after liaring &) Rnbiera boastg^-but one tolerable Inn ;

»ttaiafd his fortieth year, OBiTersally m* ^Ad that stands beyond the Bridge, en tito

teemed and lamented : for he was industrioos, ^^^ ^ Modena.

modest, even to humility, and soweU tem- (f) A fine pictare, by Correg;gio,wal shortly

pered as to feel no resentment at the envy and enrich this collection.

iMlioe «xeited by his brilliant talents. He <0 ^f** HUel ttt S- MHreo, at Modena, in

«i««ctad hls-attention partienlarly to the art of A good inn « so likewise is The AUbergo Beale. foreshorteniiH^t ttidtmys drewfr^m Batnre.

CkllJ BOLOeNA* • 14

At a Ami dirtinoe frtm iJtm aattqi%. m^fts telfee. Okavkt

City th« road crosses the Pajiom V, wa3 crowned htBr« by Cksmsat

by A handsome newiy^onstruoied VII ; and this Edifkis umtsi»s the

bttdge, which mwtks the linsite of criebraM Meridisa of Cassini •

tite Dudiy ; th«iee prooeediiig to the gnomon of which m ttshtr*

Castd^Fmujo, the fest town of three feet in height. ^ £<»i0siiistical Temteies % and The Dommican Church contains

1htticepa»singtinrough8amoggia% good Paintings; aiBoi« which is

and traversing a noh country the Paradise of Gkiido. one of hta

adorned witii several villas and finest compositions in fresco f a fine view of the Apennine, till The Church qf S, Bartolommeo

it mosses the Reno by a handsome contains a celebratad Madonna and

Bridge, and enters Bologna on the Infiuit Jesus, by Guido-~aiKi the

site of the aiMient Roman road*. Martyrdom of S. Bartolomeo, by

Bdogna, seated on the Reno, at fVanceschini. tfee base of the Apenmne, is sup* The Church of S, S^fvetiore is posed to have dmvcd its name enriched with good Paintings, from the Galh-Botonienses, who Lo Studio, Sie Palace belongimt called it Boibna, whidi time to the University, was dengned l^ eha^edfirstinto^0»omVz-2%^nMt, Yignola; and contains a StatiM and at length into Bologna : but, of Hercules, in Bronse ; a Mu«  be iMs as it may, tlwCityis of seum of Natural History ; an Ana- high antiquitv, weii peojrfled, com- tomioai Theatre ; a Cabinet of merciai, wealthy, and »tuated in Antiquities ; and a Library w«!l a salubrious though not a warm stored with ancient Manuscripts* clima4«: its walls are said to be and Books of Bcience. Soma near five mUes round ; and its writers suppose this ikmous Uni«  population is supposed to amount versify to nave been founded by to sev^ity ^ousand inhal^tants. the Eiaipepor, Ilieodosius II, in

The C^ahedrod hwe, a fine edi- 425 ; white others ascribe its foun-

fiee, erected in 1«00, contains, in dation to the Countess Matilda,

its Sanctuary, the last work of at a mueh later period. It once

Lodovioo Caracci, a Fresco, re-> contained six thousand students,

presentif^ the Annunciation ! In and seventy-two professon : but

the Chapt€«r-*oom is a picture of its celebrity Ims, in modem times,

S. Peter and the Madenna, be- diminished ; though Bologna is

wailing the death of the Saviow, still an excdlent place fer the

b^ the same master ; who has like- . education of young persons ; as

wise adorned the lower end of the masters of every description' ai« 

Choir with a fresco of Cimst pre- attainaWe here, on moderate terms :

senting the keys of Heaven to €k besides which, the high cultivation

Peter. Beneam the Choir is a of science, and the courtesy whidi

curious Ciypt. characterizes thcupper rank of per-

The Church of /8f. Pietro, a sons at Bologna, render it a pleasant

noble structure, contams a Fresco place for a permanent residence, representing the Salutaiticm, by The Accadema delle belle Arti

Lodovico Caracd. has a very fine, though not a very

The Chinch qf 8. Peiramo, numerous collection of Piotoes •

built in 432, and repaired in 139^, among which an— 4he Depositioii '

is large, and, on account of its ^om the Cross, by C^ani— th« 

(0 Here Travellers are obliged to fee the (u) The modem ro&d between Milan and

Onstom-hottse Officers, m order to escape Bologna is most excellent, and does not pass

ImpfL^^rgip^. over one high iiU.

(v) La PoHa, at Samoggia, is a good ino.

54

BOLOGNAi

[Ch. II.

Ascension of the Madonna, by^ Sabbatini — ^the Baptism of Christ, Iw Albano — ^the Conversion of S, Paul, by Lodovico Caracci — an Adoration, by the • same great master — S. Girolamo, by Agostino Caracci — S. Bruno, by Guercino — tJie Madonna delta Pieth, by Guido — S. Cecilia, by Raphael I — tiie Massacre of the Innocents, by Guido — ^the Madonna in Heaven, bv Parmigianino — the Head of Guido, by Simone da Pesaro — the Portrait of S. Andrea Corsini, by Guido — ^the Martyrdom of S. Ag- nes, by Domenichino!^ — and the Mculonna del Rosario, by the same great master !

The PalazzO'Marescalchi con- tains a good collection of Pictures ; among which are — several pro- ductions of the Flemish School — the Head of a Young Man, by Rembrandt — a fine Tmtoret — S. Peter, by Guido — a Master and his Scholar, by Caravaggio — a Head, by Denner — Banditti de- stroying a Town, by Teniers — an oli Man, by Rembrandt— S. Peter and S. Paul, by Caravaggio — the Saviour and Angels, by Correg-

fio I ! I — S. Peter and otner Saints, y ditto I — an Ecce Homo, School of Leonardo da Vinci — S. Cecilia, by Domenichino — a candle-hght ^ Picture, master not known — a Madonna and Child, by Paolo Veronese — and Neptune and Pro- serpine, by Correggio.

The Palazzo^ Zampiere has a Hall the CeiUng of which is finely painted by Lodovico Caracci ; the subject being a group of Jupiter with the Eagle and Hercules ! The same apartment, contains a Painting by Agostino Caracci ; who has represented Ceres in search of Proserpine; and the Rape of Proserpine in the back ground. The Ceiling of another room is by Annibale Caracci, and

represents the Apotheosis of Her- cmes. The Ceding of the third room is by Agostino Caracci ; and represents Hercules and Atlas supporting the Globe: this room likewise contains a Painting of Hercules and Cacus, by the same artist. The Ceiling of the fourth room is by Guercino, and re-^ . presents Hercules strangling An- taeus ! One of the accompanying ornaments of this Ceiling exhibits a beautiful figure T)f Love stealing the spoils of Hercules.

The Tower of Asinelli, erected in 1109, is three hundbred and twenty-seven Paris feet in height ; . and inclines nearly four, from the perpendiciilar line. The neigh- oouring Tower, erected in 1110, is an hundred and forty feet high, and declines above eight, from the perpendicular line.

A handsome Fountain, adorned with a colossal Statue of Neptune, by Giovanni di Bologna, embel- Hshes the Piazza del Gigante : and through the city runs a Canal, by aid of which Travellers may be con- veyed, by water, to Ferrara ; and thence embark on the Po for Venice.

The Theatre at Bologna is one of the larjgest in Italy : and the fapades of the Palaces, and other buildings, are magnificent: but the streets appear narrow, from being lined almost universally with Porticos : and this circum- stance, added to the want of spa- cious piazzas, diminishes the beauty of the Town, by riving it a sombre appearance^. The Mo- dena and I^^rrara Gates are hand- some. Travellers, on arriving at Bologna, are greeted by an excel- lent band of musicians ; who, after having played a few tunes, are well satisfied by a fee of two or three pauls.

It is said that remains of the Baths of Marius, and likewise of a

(w) Among the best Hotels here, are The grande Alhergo Jmpmale^ and VAlhergo di

S, Marco,

Ch. IL] PASSAGE DP THE APENNINE. 5/

Temple of Isis, on the foundations From Bologna, byihe Apeniune, of wich the Church of S. Ste- to Florence, uie road though hilly, fano now stands, may be traced is excellent; owin^ to improve- here, ments made by dSection of the

Bolo^a gave birth to Guido, late Cav. Fabbroni.

Domemchino, Albano, Amiibale, The time usually employed in

Lodovico, and Acostino Caraoci ', accomplishing this journey, either

and Benedict XlY : and among with post-horses, or en voiturier^

its natural curiosities is the Phos- is from fourteen to fifteen hours,

phorescent stone, found near the The ascents and descents are more

Ci^, on Monte-^Pademo. rapid than those of the Simplon,

About one mile distant from the though not suflEtciently so to render

wails, is the CompoSfanto; onee the a drag-chain often requisite, even

Certosa-Convent : and here lies for hea\^ carriages ; and the paved

the celebrated Singer, Banti ; gutters mtersected by small weUs,

whose vocal powers, not lon^ made to receive the streams which

since, captivated Europe. This rush from heists above the road,*

Repository of the Dead is worth keep the latter dry, and in good

notice; and its Church contains repair.

Paintings by Cesi, Guercino, Gui- Between Bologna and Pianora,

do, ^. (the first Post,) the country is

The Church of the Madonna rich and flat ; but at Pianora the

deUa Gttardia also merits notice ; ascent of the Apennine begins,

as it is approached by a Portico, and continues to the confines of

consistii^ of six hundred and forty Tuscany. Near the second Post,

arches, built at the expense of (Lojano,) is a magnificent view of

various individuals, corporations, the Mediterranean and Adriatic

and ecclesiastical eslabhshments ; sea, together with the plains ex-

the whole being three miles in tending frt)m Bologna to Miian.

length; and extending from the At Lojano Travellers should not

City to the Church ; which is attempt to sleep ; because the Inn

magnificently placed; and some- is very small and uncomfortable:

what resembles the Superga, near but at Pietramala, the frontier

Turin. Custom-house of Tuscany ^ and

Persons who enjoy fine scenery, about midway between Bologna and good paintings, shoiddhkewise and Florence, there is an Inn pro- visit 8. mickele in Bosco; once vided with several beds; and, a Convent belonging to the Olive- though not good, tolerable. The tans. The Portico of the Church ascent from Lojano to Pietramala is adorned by the pencil of Cig- displays bold scenery, more beau- nani : and one of the Chapels con- tiful than the Alps, though less tains a Picture by Guercino, re- sublime: but this part of the presenting Bernardo Tolomei, the Apennine, from being situated im- Founder of the Order, receiving mediately between the Mediter- his statutes from the Madonna, ranean and the Adriatic, and very In the Convent are several fine near both, is liable to pecuharly Works by Lodovico Caracci, and strong and bitter gusts of wind ; one by Leonello Spada. The si- and, therefore, much colder than tuation of tilus building is lovely. the Alps. About a mile distant

(x) Annibale Caracci was desigpned for a by his lessons, that their memory must be for

goldsmith : bnt his ancle, Lodovico, obsenring ever honoured by true lovers of the -A-rts. ^

that both Annibale and hts brother, Agostino, (y) Here Travellers usually bftv« *»«»»

were blessed with great abilities, took upon trunks plumbed ; and give J«»*" ^J"* 'f^^T;

himsetf the office of instructing them in the francs, per carriage, to the t/ustpm-nouse

art of painting : and to proch did thtfy pvofit Offieen.

&» flobsnoe: [Ckiii.

ft^m PMrftmalA i« a smaM Fblr fields beaaahs^ with 4tof»tt emy cafto» situated on a hill, ealled vfduable i^rodtistion of th« v«ge«  Monte di Fo, and covered with table world, and sttrroumM hf tocks. Hiere being neither a car- hills clothed with the silver olive riage, nor a mule-road to the spot, and the vine, and studded with an it is necessity to walk, in order to innumemble i»st of spkodid yiShm. "^sit this Volcano ; and less tiian Ahosto says of floreoce, tha^ an hour and a helf cannot be on seeing the hills so full of ^a>- allowed fbr goin^ and returning, laces, it appears as if the soil |n*o«  The mouth of ttie Volcano dis- ducedthem. '*A»dif thypal^Bet^ gorges unceasingly clear flames, (continues he,) which are thus dis- sometimes spreading fifteen feet persed, were ooncentr«uted within in circumference, and always bum- one wail, tW'O Romes could not vi«  iftg brightest in wet and -stormy wi^ thee." weather. From Pietramala the The approadi to Florence dis- road descends to Le Maschere, <a plays for several miles, a richn«ss tolerably good Inn, well provided of miltivalion unrivaJifid perhtfM with beds,) thence proceeding in any country, (ttie envinxis tA through a country gradually in- Lucca excepted :) and liie entrance (^^easmg in richness ; till at length to the City this way, through the Val d* Amo opens to the view, and Porta- San-GaUo, is strikingly mag- exhibits, in its centre, the beauti« mfteent*. fol City of Florence, seated amidst

Chapter III.

FLORENCE.

Orii^iii and present appearance of Florence— palazzo-Vecchio— Loggia— Piazia delOrtndtica —Palazzo del Podesta— Fabbrica degli Ufizi— MagliabeoWanaTibraTf-^Roy*! Oallety— PalazBO-Pitti— Giardino di IBoboli— Maseo d'lstoria Naturale— Duomo— Campadile-^ Bapti«tery-<!!ne»e di Saa Mmjco— S. S. Anamisiata— S. Uaria MMldalm 4ei Paz?i— Santa Croce— S. Lomossd— N«v Saciristf— Old Sacmtyi-Ga^lla d«' Medm-r^ecLieee- X^anrenziaoa Library— Chi«9e di Santa Mana Nov^la— »'Or-Sa©-Michele— Di Saa* Spirilo— Del Carmine— Di S. Triniti— Di S. Ambrogio— Di S. Gaetono; ^c— Reale Accademia delle belle Arti— Oratorio dello Scalzo— Palaazi Gerini— Riooardi— Corsini— Mozzi— Bupnaroti— Strozzi— Uguccioni— Casa dei Poveri— Spedale di Bopifazio— Spe- dale di Santa Maria Nuoya— Spedale degV Innocenti— Column in y^a-Romana— Column near the Ponte S. Triniti-^olttmn in the Piazza del Doomo— Bronze Wild-boar in (^ Mercato imovo— Pedesdal near tk« Church ©f S. LM«toix>-JSta4Qe of F«rdinMido I.—

- Porta S. Gallo— Triamphal Arch— Fwaco by Gionumi di Sao Giemmni^Ponte S. Tri- nit*— Theatres— Fiorentinp Mo«aic Work, and Scnlptare ia Alabaster— Aoeademi* d^l»

• Cmsca^Hotels-Provisions— Water— Climate— Festa <lii Saa Oiovaj»i— Cowo dei B«r-

beri— Game caUed Pallone— Environs of Florenoe— Royal Cascini— Car^ggi de* Madici--

Poggi Imperiale—Pratolino-Fiesole—Vallombrosa— Abbey of -Camaldoli— Convent <rf

Lavernia— Character of the Florentines— Tuscan Peasantry— their behaviour at a Dance

•—Anecdote relative to a Foundling— Laws of JUopold-Population of Tuscany.

Florence, in Italian, Firenze, ^rms of the city,) has deservedly which signifies, m the Etruscaa acquired the appellation of La language, a red %, (a<jtuaHy the Bella ; it stands <as ah^dy men-

(«) AU the Gates of Florence are slint whea it ^Moomes dsnk* m£t^t iht Porta Ssn-^aUo.

Gh, in.] FLORENCB. 5#

tiOtted) in ia WMffiatit, beautiful, Donittello*. Th« Court leading to and extenave plain, encircled by the great staircase is spacious, the Apennine; and is said, by and exhibits superb Columns, some authors, to have been an an* which, toward the close of the cient town of Etruria, fLfberwards last century, were substituted for inhabited by the Phoenicians ; those raised by Amolfo. Here vrhiie others suppose it to haire likewise is a group, by Rossi da been founded either by 8y!ia*s sol* Fiesole,. of Hercules slaying Cacus. diers, or the people of Fiesole : and The Great Hall of this Palace is 4 one thing seems certain, namely, magnificent apartment with re- that the choicest part of Csesai's spect to dimensions and propor- army was sent to colonize at Flo- tions ; and displays the most cele- rence, (then called Florentiai) brated actions of the Florentine about sixty years before the birth Republic and the Family of Me- of our Saviour ; and under the dicis, painted by Vasari, four pic- dominion of the Roman Emperors tures excepted ; one of which, by it became one of the most consi- Ligozzi, represents tiie Coronation derable cities of Etruria, and was of Oosimo I — another, the twelve embellished with a Hippodrome, a Florentines at the same time Am- Oampus Martius, a Capitol, and a bassadors from different States to road, called Vict^ Cassia. Its walls Boniface VIII, also by Ligozzi — are six miles in circumference ; a third, the Election 01 Cosimo I, and contain about eighty thousand b3r Cigoli — ^and a fourth, the In- persons ; and the river Amo, (an- stitution of the Order of S. Ste- cientiy ^mt«,) which runs through fano, by Passignano. This Hall ft, is adorned with four handsome likewise contains an unfinished bridges: its squares are spacious Group of Victory with a fallen and numerous ; its streets, like Foe, by Michael Angelo. The tiiose of every large Tuscan cily, Exploits of Furius Camillus are ctean, and excellently paved with painted in tempera, b^ Salviati, flat stones ; and, were liie facades m the Sala dell' Udienza Vec- of all its churches finished, no- chia.

tiling could exceed the elegance of The Loggia of the Palazzo Vec-

this Athens of Italy, chio, called Loggia del Lanzi,

1%e Palazzo- Vecchio, or na- and erected after a design of An-

tional Palace, adorned with a dra Orcagna, is a beautiftil open

Tower so lofty that it is deemed a Gallery, raised on five steps, and

chef'Scetwre of architecture, was presenting a front of three Columns

bimt about the close of the thir- and three Arches, lie capitals

teenth century, by Amolfo, the of the columns support a Frieze

Discijde of Cimabue. and projecting Cormce : the con-

This edifice, like all the early struction of Sie roof is particu- spechnens of Florentine architec- larly admired ; and the whole ture, is grand and gloomy ; oom- fidifice considered as a masterly bioin^ the ancient Etruscan style combination of Greek and Gothic with the Grecian. On each side aixjhitecture. Beneath the arches of the Gate of entrance is a of this Edifice are the following Group in marble ; the one repre- pieces of sculpture : — ^A Group, ia sents David sla3dn^ Goliah, and bronze, representing^ Judith and was done by Michael Angelo; Holofemes, b;^ Donatello — a tiie other represents Hercules slay- Group, likewise in bronze, of Per- il^ (3acus, and is attributed to sens and Medusa, by Benvenuto

(a) tlhas Uca,T)3r sotoe writers, attributed to BairtrmelH.

€0

FLORENCE. (Oh. III.

Cellini I (The Basso-rilievo, on The Fabbrica degji Ufizi, which

the Pedestal which supports this comprehends the Koyal GaUery,

group, is much admired ;) — and a was built by Vasaii : the exterior

Group, in marble, of a young Ro- part of the edifice is ornamented

man Warrior carrying off a Sabine with Doric Columns, forming two

Female, whose Father is prostrate inagnificent Porticos, united at

at Jiis feet ; with the Rape of the one end by an Arch, which sup-

Sabines, in hasso-rilievo, on the ports the apartments occupied by

Pedestal, by Giovanni di Bologna I! coiu^s of justice; and, over this

Six ancient and finely draped Sta- arch, is a statue of Cosimo I, by

tues of Sabine Priestesses line the Giovanni di Bologna ; together

Wall of the Loggia ; and two with recumbent figures of Equity

Lions of marble, brought from the and Rigour, by Vincenzo Danti.

Villa Medici, at Rome, stand oh The Maghabechiana- Library,

either side of the Entrance. rich in manuscripts and printed

The Piazza del Granduca is books of the fifteenth century, (and adorned with a beautiful Eques- where the Florentine Academy trian Statue of Cosimo 1, in meet,) is under the same roof with bronze, by Giovanni di Bologna; the Royal Gallery; the latter is who has represented the Grand- usually open to the public from Duke as entering Florence in tri- nine in the morning till three in umph, after the conquest of Siena; the afternoon, festivals excepted, and on the Pedestal of the statue Staircase leading to the Royal the fate of the vanquished City is Gallery^ Between the windows recorded in basso-rilievo. This is the Statue of Bacchus, in mar- Piazza likewise contains a Foun- ble ; and, opposite to it, the Statue tain, erected by Cosimo I, after of a Child.

the design of Ammannati ; and ex- First Vestibule. A Statue of

hibiting a colossal statue of Nep- Mars, and another of Silenus,

tune in a car drawn by four sea- with an infant Bacchus, both in

horses, with Tritons and other bronze — ten Busts of the Princes

appropriate ornaments: but the of the House of Medicis, among

Fountain is ill placed ; and the which is that of the great Lorenzo

statue of Neptune much too gi- — ^four Bassi-rilievi.

gantic for its situation. Second Vestibule, A Horse in

The Palazzo del Podesta, con- marble; supposed to have ori- verted during the close of the thir- ginally belonged to the group of teenth century into a Prison, and Niobe and ner Children !— Two called II BargellOf was buUt by quadrangular Columns, which ap- Amolfo ; and merits notice from pear to represent the victories by being one of the early specimens land and sea of the person to of Florentine architecture. Its whom they were dedicated: on Gate exhibits two Lions, the sup- one of these Columns rests a Head porters of the arms of Florence : of Cybele ; and, on the other, a. and the Walls of the Court of this fine Just of Jupiter — a Wild- Edifice are covered with Monu- boar ! ! said to be Grecian sculp- , mental stones, on which the names ture— colossal Statues of Adrian, of citizens who held the offices of Tr^an, and Augustus — ^two Wolf- Podesta, Esecutore, and Capitano, do&[s ! — a Bust of Leopoldo. during the Republican Govern- First Corridor, Tlie ceiling of ment, are inscribed. The arms of this inunense Gallery is adorned the Palazzo, consisting of Dragons, with arabesques : round the walls Bears, and chained Dogs, may near the ceilm^, are portraits of the likewise be seen h^re. most renowned Characters of an-

Gh.IIL] FLORENCE. 61

tiquitf ; cDmjnrehending generals, side, neai* the eeiling, is a ccmti-

statesmen, princes, and literati; nuation of the portraits of the

and, on the wall to the left, below most renowned Cnaracters of an-

the portraits, are paintings of the tiquity ; and, on the left side, be-

Florentine school. Here, likewise, low the portraits, are paintings by

is a most valuable collection of the Neapolitan, and other Schools.

Busts of the Roman Emperors, Here, liKewise, is a lai^ number

and many of their Relatives, which of statues; among which are

go round the three corridors. The Marsyas, restored byDonatello—

nrst Corridor contains several cu- Marsyas, restored by Verrocehio

rious Sarcophagi ; one of which, in — ^Thetis seated on a Sea-horse —

the centre of tins apartment, near Hygeia — a Discobolus, supposed*

the entrance-door, is particularly by Visconti, to be an ancient copy

admired. On the left side are Sta- of the Discobolus of Myron — ^Mi-

tues of a Wrestler, Mercury, and nerva, supposed to be either an

Apollo, aU especiaUy worth notice ; Etruscan work, or a production of

as are the Statues of Apollo, Ura- the iEgina School — Mercuiy, the

nia, and Pan with the young Olyn- upper part ancient, the lower part

thus, on the right side. modem — Apollo seated — JEcvisb^

Second Corridor, On each side pius, supposed to have been part

near the ceiling, is a continuation of a Group ; there being, on the

of the portraits of the most re- left shoulder of this Statue, a mark

nowned Characters of antiquity ; of the hand of another figure —

here, likewise, are paintings con- Marcus Aurelius — Bacchus, by

taining the history of S*. Maria Michael Angelo — Bacchus, by San-

Maddalena, together vrith several sovino— Apollo, (unfinished) by

pieces of sculpture, namely, Cupid I Michael Angelo— S. John Baptist,

Bacchus and Ampelos ! a !Bac- by Donatello — a Copy of the La-

chante ; Mercury ! Leda; acircu- ocoon, by.Bandinelli — an antique

lar Altar ! supposed to be the work recumbent Statue in touchstone^

of Cleomenes; Cupid and Psy- supposed to represent Moipheusi

che ; Venus- Anadyomene I Pallas- — and an Altar dedicated to. the

Athenas ; the Pedestal of a Can- Lares of Augustus,

delabrum dedicated to Mars ; on Among the most striking Busts

which stands a small trianeular in the Corridors are those of Ju-

Altar ; Ganymede, restored by lius Csesar, in marble-^ulia, the

Benvenuto Cellini ; Ganymede Daughter of Augustus — Marcus

with the Eagle ! Venus, whose A^ppa — Caligula — Nero when a

head is encircled by a diadem which child ! — Otho !---Julia, the Daugh-

seems to have been originally co- ter of Titus — ^Vespasian — ^Titus

loured with Tyrian purple, and — Plotina, tiie Consort of Trajan —

enriched with gold and precious Adrian — ^Antoninus Pius I — ^Faus-

stones ! ! Torso of a Faun f I tina the elder »^— Annius Verus, the

Third Corridor. The ceiling of infant Son of Marcus Aurelius« —

this immense Gallery is adorned Marcus Aurelius Antoninus <'^—

with paintings, representing the Commodus — Septimius Severus —

revival of the Arts and Sciences, Caracalla — and Greta,

with other historical subjects ; in Adjoining to the third Corridor,

which are introduced portraits of and not far distant from the Sta-

all the most eminent Characters tues of Marsyas, is an interesting

among the Florentines. On each Apartment, called The Cabinet of

C6) Placed near the windows. ^. ,. (d) Here are four Busts «( parens Awe-

W Here are two Busts of this Child j one lius ; that which represents h»m m the men^

beui^ finely exMOted, the other yery inferior, dian of we being the finest.

fa

FLORSNCSL [Clu III.

Acuipture tf ^ fifteenth etniury ; presenting S. Fraxieu XaTier, 8. and containing six BassirnHevi, by Joieph, and S». Teresa, by Soldani Benedetto diKoveizano, represent* —and a recumbent Statue, by ing the Life of S. Giovanni Gual- Vecchietta of Siena. Copte*.— The l)erto— -six Bcust-rilievi, by Luca Venus de' Medici— the Arrotino — della Robbia, intended as interior the Wrestlers— and the Faun of the decorations for the Duomo at Flo- Tribune, all by Soldani— the Toi» rence — ^two unfinished Bam-rilie' Fomese, found buried in the earth* vi, by the same artist ; one of near Artindno — a small but admi- which represents S. Peter delivered rable Comr of the Laocoon — and a from prison, and the other the Bust of Michael Ahgelo. Crucifixion of that Apostle— four Cabinet of antique Bronzes; Bam-rilieoi, by Donatello, in- enclosed in fourteen glass-cases- tended as interior decorations for the first of which contains, Apb, the Duomo at Florence, and form- Jupiter, Neptune, Pluto, and a in^ aT)ance of thhty Genii — an un- remarkable Head of Saturn ; Juno, fimshed Basso-rilievo, by Michael with Etruscan characters on her

• Angelo, which represents the Ma- hip f a Grecian Bust of Minerva;

donna, the Infant Saviour, and S. «^c. Second case. Venus with John — ^a Basso^rilievOf by Antonio her attributes — a celestial Venus Rossellino, which represents the —a triumphant Venus-^an Her* Madonna adoring the Infant Savi* maphrodite ! — an Amazon ! — ^Mars our — a Basso-ruieoo of S. John^ armed, ^. Third case. Hercules, in touchstone, attributed to Dona- Bacchus, and Bacchantes — a Faun te^o — ^a Bust of Pietro de' Medici, blowing ihe Dorib flute — ^the La- l^ Mino di Fiesole — ^a portrait of hours of Hercules represented by a Female, in the style of Donatello a multitude of small Statues — a — a Bust of Macchiavelli, executed Genius ^ving ambrosia to Bac- in 1496, author unknown — a Sta- chus I Fourth case, Victojty, For* tue of S. John, by Micheloszo Mi- tune. Genii, Egyptian divinities; chelozzi — ^and a BMso-^ievo^ by among which is a Deautilul Serapis, Andrea Verrocchio, the master of and Isis, crowned with a disk, Leonardo da Vinci, . holding Horus on her lap. F^th ' Cabinet of modem Bronzes, case. Etruscan divinities ; a very Originals. Mercury standing on fine collection. Sixth ease. Por- the wind, by Giovanni di Bologna 1 1 traits of men and women ; fi*ag- — two small models of this fine ments of Statues, beautifully exe- work, and a model of the seizure cuted ; and a small Skeleton, of the Sabine Virgins, attributed Seventh case. Animals of various to the same great Sculptor — six kinds, which served for votive of- Statues, by Giovanni di Bologna, ferings, Symbols, and military En* representing Juno, Venus, Vulcan, signs ; a Hippogryph, a Chimsera ; Apollo, &c. Over the door of en- a Bull with a man*s head ; a Ro- trance to the second Cabinet is a man Eagle, which belonged to the fine Bust of Cosmo I, by Cellini — twenty-fourth Legion — and an this Cabinet contains a Model in Open Hand, called by the Romans wax, and another in bronze, of Manipultcs. Eighth case. Sacri- Perseus, by Cellini — Abraham's ficial instruments, Altars, and Tri- sacrifice, byGhibertil — the Sta- pods; a curious Sistrum ; a mural tue of a Child with wings, at Crown, ^. Ninth case. Cande- tributed to Donatello— David, by labra and Lamps. Tenth ease. Verrocchio — an anatomical Statue, Helmets, Spurs, Bits, ^c. for by Cigoli — a Basso-rilievo repre- horses; Rings, Bracelets, Ear- senting a Battle^&im-n/i€t^' re- rings, ail made of gold ; Minon

Df white m^A ; and N«tidleft made in Greece, uxl oihen in the Island of hair. Eleventh cate. Aneient of Elba: the nif^or pert, however, Insciiptions graven on bronze-^a eame from Volterra, Ajreizo, Oi^ Manuscript, on wax, nearly efflused betello, and Sarteano, near thfe an- -^-Homan Scales and Weights ; ^. eient Clumum ; which last named Tuyelfih and Thirteenth ea8e9, IQt-^ spot fltmiahed about eight hun* Chen Uten^ils^— a silver Bisk ! on dred. Two of an uncommon size which is engraved, "bavins Arda- adorn tiie Armoire numbered X. burius, who was Consul of Rome Some of the handsomest are hi- hi 342. Iburteenih 'cMe. Locks, . scribed with Greek oharactera ; Keys, and some Monuments of the and one of these adorns the centre jprimitive Olmstians ; among which of the Armoire numbered V. The is a Laim> in the shape of a boat, finest Vase, with respect to Ibrm, with a igare of S. Peter at the is black, and stands m the centre stem. Middle of the cabinet. The of the Armoire numbered III. The Head of a Horse ! An Orator, next Armoire, numbered IV, con- with Etruscan Characters engraved tains a pair of Vases precise^ on his robe!! this fine statue was alike: and the Vases in the Ar- fbund near the Lake of Peruria — moires numbered I, II, III, IV, a Chimera, with Etruscan uha- and VIII, are all Etruscan. The racters engraved on one of the legs !! ground of Etruscan Vases appears it was found near Arezzo-*An to be almost universally black; Etruscan Statue of a Genius, or, and the paintings found upon them perhaps, a Bacchus, found at Pe- usuaQy r^resent national fames, saro*!!! A Mitierva, injured by combats, and the coronation of fire, but very beautiful; on the victors. This Cabinet Ukewise helmet is a Dragon, the symbol of comprises terra^cotta Lamps, and vigilance and prudence I ! This Figures of Animals; which, ac- atatue was found near Arezzo, and cording to Caylus, were offered one arm has been restored. Be- by indigent persons to the gods, in hind the Chimaera is a Torso ! and, place of Victims, before it a Tripod ! supposed to Hall of Niobe. At the upper- have belonged to a temple of end of this magnificent apartment Apollo. Tlie cabinet likewise con* is the celebrated group of Niobe tains four Busts, found in the sea^ and her Youngest.. Child ; sup- near Leghorn ; they appear to be posed to have been done by Sco- Oredan sculpture; and one of pas; and generally considered aa them resembles Homer'. the most interesting effort of the Cabinet ^ancient Vases in ter- Grecian chisel Italy can boast : it ra cotta* This Cabinet is embel- is not, however, perffect ; as one lished with a pretty Statue, sup- of the mother's hands, and one of posed, from its pensive attitude, to the child's feet, have been re- have orignally represented the stored. Round the apartment are Genius ofDeath ; but restored, by statues of the other Children of mistake, as a Cupid. The Vases Niobe ; which seem the work of are all denominated Etruscan; various artists. The Daughter, though some of them were found next to Niobe, on the left, is ad-

{(b) WiBckelmaaii M«mi to hay6 thought stAtUM existed mnch earlier than ia Oeeeee.

this fine atatve the work of a Gracian arttet | We ave told that Romnhig had his statatf

eapecially ae Pemro was a Grecian eolony. made of bronie, probably by an Etroscaa

(f) The Etnucan Brontes of tbe Floren- artist; we are likewise told that this ereat

tine Gallery are snpposed to hate been exeoat- ooourred abont the eighth Olympiad » •"« >*

edat a period when Senlptnre of this sort does w»t appear that the ?"f^* J^'*** ^*

had nMM its aeoitk oC Mhetian ia Btru* brwM tiU »Wt the sixue^ OlympM- ria; where, according to Taasanias, bronze

^ •

04

FLORENCE.

tCh. Ill*

loirably executed ; the opposite beth, Duchess of Mantua, by An- Statue, on the right, has great dreaMantegna — Jesus arrested, by merit ; the Dead Son is wonderfully Soddoma — a Man with a Monkey fine ; but, considering the fable, on his shoulders, by Annibale Ga- it appears extraordinary that the racci! — ^the Madonna entreating sculptor should have placed him our Saviour to bless the Charitable, on a cushion. The two Daughters, called the Madonna del Popolo, on each side of the Psedagogus, by Baroccio !! — Portrait of Julian and the third Statue, on the left de* Medici, Duke of Nemoiurs, by of the entrance door, have great Alessandro Allori — Small picture merit. It is extremely to be re- of a Female, by Holbein — ^portrait gretted that these chefs-d'cewm'es of Elizabeth Brandts, the first of art are not disposed in such a Wife of Rubens, by that master ! — manner as to accord with the the Dispute in the Temple, by Ca- subject. ravaggio — ^portrait of Gahleo, by

The second Statue on the left Subterman! — ^the Magdalene, by

of the entrance-door is a Pysche, Carlo Dolci ! — S. Peter healii^ the

and has nothing to do with the lame Man at the Gate of the Tem-

tragedy of Niobe ; but was intro- pie, by Cosuno Gambo-ucci I —

duced merely to ornament the apart- Head of S. Peter in tears, by Vol-

ment ; as likewise was the Statue terrano — the same subject, by Lan-

of a youth kneeling, and appa- franco! — ^theVirginingrief,bySas-

rently wounded ». soferrato I — ^por&ait of a Pnncess

The walls of this room are resembling Mary, Queen of Scot- adorned with the following Pic- land, by Vandyck — portrait of the tures. — Portrait of an old person. Sculptor, Francavilla, by Porbus — supposed to be the Mother of Ru- portrait of Vaneelista Scappi, by bens, by Vandyck — a Wild-boar Francia — a Bacdianalian Parfy,by Hunt, by Snyders ! — Henry IV, of Rubens I — Philip IV, of Spain, on France, at the battle of Ivry, by horseback, by Velasquez — S. Clo- Rubens — ^the triumphal entry of vis of the Cordeliers, . Bishop of Henry IV into Paris, by Rubens — Toulouse, praying to the Madonna, a Fortuneteller, by Gherardo delle by Carlo Dolci— the Infant Jesus notti — and the Aladonna and In- with Angels, by Albano — ^the Em- fant Saviour, Mary Magdalene, press S*. Galla Placidia, being a David, ^c, attributed to the same portrait of Felicia, second Wife master. of the Emperor Leopold, by Carlo

Cabinet of Baroccio, The Ado- Dolci. ration of the In&nt Jesus, by This Cabinet contains fourTa-

Gherardo delle notti — ^the Deposi- bles of Florentine Mosaic Work,

tion from the Cross, by Bronzino — called Opera di Conmies^oK Tlie

the Madonna, the Infant Jesus, octagon Table in the centre of the

and S. Anne, by Luini — a Story Cabmet displays topasses, onyxes,

from Ariosto, by Guido — Eliza- agate, lapis-lazuh, ^. It oocu-

(j) The Statues placed in this Hall, to re- present the Tragedy of Niobe, and found at Rome, near the Porta-Ostiensis, are sixteen in number reckoning Pcedagorns. We learn, however, from Homer and Propertius, that Niobe had only six sons and six daughters ; the former of whom fell by the hand of Apol- lo, and five of the latter by that of Diana. Other writers say, Niobe had fourteen child- ren; but, at the same time, admit, that one «f them (Chloris, who married the Monarch of Pylos) was spared. The Group, therefore, ovght not to oonsitt of more thaa thirteen, or,

at the utmost, fifteen persons. Mr. Cockerell, an able and ingenious English architect long resident in Greece, supposes this (jroap to have been the decoration, for the tympan of the pediment of a temple, and whoever ex- amines the decorations of ancient temples must coincide with him in opinion.

(A) Florentine Mosaic-work, called Opera di CommetsOt consists of sparks of gems, and minute pieces of the hardest and most precious marbles, so j^laced as to imitate flowers, in* ■eetiH and paintings of every description*

Ch. III.] PLORENCE. 65

pied the time of twenty-two artifi* — ^two Children and a Goose, sup-

cers for twenty-five years, and cost posed to have belonged to a foun*

forty thousand sequins. tain — a beautiful Infant crowned I

Cabinet of Inscriptions, Besides — a colossal Head of Alexander,

a considerable number of Greek Grecian sculpture, and particularly

and Latin Inscriptions, here are se- fine ! ! — ^a colossal Head of Juno—

veral interesting Heads and Busts'; and a colossal Head of an old

namely — ^Brutus, by Michael An- Person with a beard; but whom

^elo, only just begun ; and above it rq)resents is unknown !

it the ^rst work of that great ar- Cfabinet of Egyptian Antiquitiet.

tist (the Head of a Satyr) executed Fixed in the w2I on the left of the

when he was but fifteen, and the door of entrance to this Cabinet is

cause of his introduction to the a very curious Tablet in high pre-

Platonic Academy. — Cameades — servation — ^the Basao-rilievo op-

Scipio! rare — Sappho — Solon ! — posite to the Mummy, and that

Head of an old Man admirably below the window, merit notice*

? reserved — Anacreon — Head in the first on account of its size and iapis Suillius, supposed to repre- execution ; the second because it sent Euripides — Marcus Antonius represents several trades ; a very the Triiunvir, a colossal Bust, and uncommon circumstance. Front- very rare — Demosthenes — Cicero ! ing the window is a well-preserved — and Plato ! — ^the last very rare. Mummy on a Bed of modem and displaying the name of the workmanship, imitated from an philosopher in Greek characters. Egyptian painting. 'Here likewise Here likewise is a valuable Basso- are the Coffins in which the Mum* rilievo, supposed to represent the my was found ; curious Papyri, Earth, Air and Water — and the and three Glass Cases filled wi^ centre of the Apartment contains Vases, Idols, small Mummies of an Altar of granite, with Figiu^s various Animals, ^. ^. in alto-rilievo, and a Statue charged Cabinet containing Portraits of with Hieroglyphics (probably an Painters, chiefly done by them- Osiris) resting on the Altar. On selves. In &e centre of this each side of this Statue is a small apartment is the celebrated Vase Idol, and behind it a Figure of a of the ViUa Medicis, adorned with larger size, seated. This Work, Bassi-rilievi representing tiie sa- called Pompa Isiaca, is supposed orifice of Iphigenia ! ! — The ceiling to be anterior to the time of is painted by Pietro Dandini: Adrian. round the walls are portraits of Cabinet of the HermaphrodHe, Raphael, Leonardo da Vinci, Mi- The Chef'dcBuvre of Grecian chael Angelo, Titian, the Carac- Sculpture which gives its name to ci Family, Domenichino, Albano, this Apartment reposes on a Lion^s Guercino, Guido, Vandyck, Ve- Skin, and resembles the celebrated lasquez, Rembrandt, Charles Le- Hermaphrodite of the Paris Gal- Brun, Vander-Werf, ^c, ^. The lery. Near the door of entrance apartment which communicates are two Fragments, one of which with this, likewise contains Por- (in Parian marble) seems to have traits of Painters. — ^The ceiling represented Bacchus, or a Faun, is painted by Bimbacci; and in and is highly estimated ; the other the centre of the room is a mag- (a Torso of basalt) appears to have nificent Table of Florentine Mo- been done by a distinguished ar- saic work. — ^Round the walls sre tist This (Jabinet Ukewise con- Portraits of Mengs, Batoni, Rey- tains Hercules strangling the Ser- nolds, Angelica Kauftnan, Canova, pents sent by Juno to devour him ! and Madame Lebrun : and here

6g FLORENCE. [Ch. III.

is, also, a marble Bust of Mrs. Da- apartment is ornamented mih

mer, done by herself. iine Columns of oriental alabaster.

Cabinets containing Pictures of and verde antique; and contains

the Venetian School. Portrait of a most valuable collection of

Sansovino, by Titian — ^portrait of Gems, ^c. (most of which were

an Old Man, by Morone — our collected by the Medicean Princes)

Saviour dead, by Giovanni Bel- together with a Table of Florentine

lino — a Figure in a Spanish dress, Mosaic-work, executed when the

by Morone — ^the Madonna, our manufacture was in its infancy.

Saviour, S. John, <J»c., by Titian — and representing the ancient Port

portraits of all the Bassano, or, of Leghorn,

more properly speaking, the Da Cabinet containing Pictures of

Ponte FamDVr with Titian and his t?ie French School, The ceilings

Wife in the background, by Jaco- of this apartment, and those which

po Da Ppnte, called Bassano ! — communicate with it, were painted

portrait of the Venetian Admiral, by the Poccetti-schooL Among

veinerio, by Tintoretto — Venus the Pictures by French artists are—

with her attendants, and Adonis Portraits of Alfieri, and the

dead, by Bonvicino — ^portraits of Countess d'Albany, by Fabre

Francesco Duke of Urbino, and Xavier, of Montpellier — Theseus

his Duchess, by Titian I — four raising the enormous stone under

heads, by Paolo Veronese, Paris which his Father hid the sword

Bordone, Tiberio Tinelli, and Cam- Theseus was to take to Athens, by

pagnola — portrait of a Person Nicolas Poussin — Bust of a Man

dressed in red and black, and clothed in black, by Philippe de

leaning on a table, by Paris Bor- Champaigne — ^the Repose in Egypt,

done — two Dogs, by Bassano— by Bounion — ^a Landscape, by

the Madonna, the Infant Jesus, Gasparo Poussin — Venus and

and S. Antonio, by Titian I — ^por- Adonis on Mount Ida, by Nicolas

trait of Giovanni de' Medici, the Poussin — and two Battle-pieces,

fkthe* Cosimo I, by Titian I — the by Boi?;ognone. — In the centre of

Marriage at Cana in Galilee, by the Cabinet is a Statue of Venus

Tintoretto — ^portrait of a Man in extracting a thorn from her foot ;

black with red hair, by Bordone — and likewise the Statue of a Youth

portrait of Pantera, when old, with examining one of his feet, which

a book in his hand, by Morone — appears to have been wounded,

the Madonna, our Saviour, and Whom this Statue was intended

S. Catherine, who is offering him to represent seems doubtful.

a pomegranate, by Titian ! ! — and Cornet containing Pictures

4^he portrait of a Woman with of the Flemish School. Bust of

flowers, commonly called The a Man wrapped up in fur, with a

^ora! by the same master— a cap on his head, by Denner I — Ve-

•Warrior, by Sebastiano del Piombo nus and Adonis, by Rubens — Por-

— a Head, by Morone — ^the Last trait of a Man in a black cap

Supper, by Bonifazio — ^the Cruci- with, a paper in his right hand, by

fixion, by Paolo Veronese — ^por- Holbein ! — a Landscape at sunset,

Irait of Sansovino in old age, by by Claude ! — Portrait of South-

Tintoretto — ^portrait of a Knight well, by Holbein — the interior of

of Malta, by Giorgione — portrait a Church, by Peter Neff— Fruit,

of Catherine Comaro, Queen of by Abraham Mignon — Gamesters,

Cyprus, in the character of S. hy John Van Son — the inside of a

Catherine — ^portrait of a Geome- prison where the death of Seneca

trician, by Pahna Vecchio. is rqiresented, bv Peter Neffil — ^

Cabinet of Qems^ ^« This portrait of Sir Thomas More, by

Ch. III.]

FLORENCE.

e;

Holbein — a small picture of Fran- Caravaggio! — Bust of the Ma-

cis I, of France, on horseback, by donna pressing the Infant Saviour

Holbein— and another view of tlie to her bosom, by Carlo Cignanil

interior of a Church, by Peter —a Landscape with Persons sing-

Neif. ing, by Guercino — Europa, by Al-

Cabinet containing Pictures of bano — ^the Massacre of the Inno. the Dutch School, Peasants at cents, by Dosso Dossi — the Ma- table, by John Steen — a Woman donna, the Saviour, and S. John selling Fritters, by Gerard Dow-^ with Joseph in the background, a, Miser, painted in the style of by Schidone — the Madonna, th^ Rembrandt, by Horace Paulyn— Saviour, and 5. John, by Massari a Man with a Lantern, byAdiian — the same subject, by Guido— Van Ostade — a Schoolmaster Diana's Bath, by Solimene — tlie teaching fi Child to read, by Ge- Breaking of Bread, by Palma rard Dow! — a Peasant's Family Vecchio — Rock- scenery, by Sal- in their cottage, by Rembrandt-— vat or Rosa! — and tlje Annuncia- nine pictures by Fr^mcis Mieris, tion, by Garofolo,*! namely, a Charlatan exhibiting his Cabinei, called the Tribune, tricks — an old Lover and his Mis- This elegant apartment, built after ti'ess — a Man seated at table, with th^ desi^ ot Buontalenti, and a bottle of beer ; and near him, paved with precious marbles, con- si Woman and a Man asleep — the tains admirable specimens of sculp- portrait of the Son of Miens — ^his ture aqd painting. Here is the own porti'ait -^ ditto, in another Venus de' Medici, found inAdrian's attitude — a Woman sleeping, and Villa, and supposed to have been two other figures — the Pqinter's the w^ork of Praxiteles'! !! 1 — ^the family—- and a Peasant cutting Apollo (called ApolUno! I) at- bres^d, while his Wife drinks bper. tnbuted to the same great artist— t —The Judgment of Solomon, by the dancing Faun I II evidently a y ander-Werf— and the Saviour in production of the best age of an- ihe Manger ! by the same artist — cient sculpture, and excellently re- st Landscape, by Ruysdaal, which stored by Michael Angelo ^ — the represents a storm going off— the 4rrotino I ! found at Rome, and Adoration of tlie Shepherds, by supposed to represent the Scythian Poelenburg — and two Landscapes Slave, when commanded to flay with Cattle, by Adrian Vander- Marsyas — and the group of thp velde. Lottatori, or wrestlers ' 1 1 found

Cabinet containing Pictures qf with the Niobe. The Venus de'

fhe Italian School, Venus re- Medici is about five English feet

posing, by Albano — two small in height ; the right arm, and tha

pictures by Titian, one of which left, from the elbow downward,

represents our Saviour at the are modem ; indeed the statue,

Jlouse of the Pharisee ; the otlier when first discovered, was broken

the Madonna, our Saviour, and in thirteen places. Pliny mentions

Angels — ^the Head of Medusji, by six famous Venuses ; one, by

(t) On the Base of the Venus de^ MeUici is the oaine of Cleomenes, ao AtheDian, and the •on of ApoUodorus. Some AHtiquaries there- fore 8«ppo»e this ijitatue to have been ^U work ; out their opinion is not well grounded ; /or that part 'of the Base which l>eara the Inscription was broken, and ha^ been restored : ttpreover, the Inscription itself is of the fifteenth contury : and as Cleomenes was not a very celebrated sculptor, it seems improba- ble tkfttMd should h»ve yrodaced a wpr)^ pre-

cisely in the gr^eful, delicate, and highly- finished' style of Praxiteles.

(ft) The g^-eat anatomist, Mr. Bell, in hit interesting Ob8erv^tU)ns upon Italy, expresses ft belief that this btatiie was originaUy a drunlten, not a dancing Faun.

(0 Winckelmann thought this work aot ai- worthy either of Cephissodorus, wh? made the S'fjmplegma atEphesus; or, of^^^^odovyxs, who exe?uted a simflar group. These artists mi^ th« wn» <rf Prwuteits.

6d FLORENCE. tOh. Hi.

Phidias, which stood under the donna, our Saviour, S. John, and

Portico of Octavia, at Rome ; an- S. Sebastiano, the two former

other, finished by Phidias, but seated, the two latter standing, by

begun by his pupil ; and this stood Pietro Perugino I — Six pictures

just without the town of Athens ; by Raphael, namely, a portrait of

another, at Rome, in the Temple Maddalena Doni, a Florentine

of Brutus Callaicus ; and a fourth, lady, in his first style — ^two Holy

by an unknown artist, which was Families, in an improved style,

placed in the Temple of Peace; though still partaking of the Peru-

another, made by Praxiteles, and gino-school — S. John in the wil« 

veiled, was purchased by the peo- demess ! ! ! a portrait of Pope

pie of Cos; and the sixth, an Giulio III and another of La

/Undraped figure, was sent to Gni- Fomarina ! ! who was celebrated

dus : but this latter, the more ex- for her attachment to Raphael, all

ceUent work of the two, is sup- three painted in his last and best

posed to have been destroyed at style — a portrait, by Vandyck,

Constantinople ; as was the Olvm- supposed to represent Jean de

pian Jupiter of Phidias, the Juno Montford — and another repre-

of Samos, &c. It seems, there- senting Charles V, on horseback

fore, impossible to discover, from — Francis I, Duke of Urbino, by

the author just quoted, whether Baroccio — ^the Prophets, Job, and

the modest and beautiM Venus Isaiah, by Fra Bartolommeo della

de' Medici be, or be not, the child Porta ! — ^the flight into Egypt, by

of Praxiteles. This statue is Pa- Correggio ! — me Virgin adoring

rian marble. Among the Pictures the Inlant Jesus, by ditto ! — ^the

of the Tribune are, the Epiphany, Decapitation of S. John, by ditto

by Albert Durer — Endymion sleep- — Herodias receiving the Head

ing, by Guercino — a Sibyl, by the of S. John, by Leonardo da Vin-

same magic pencil — a Holy Family, ci! — a Madonna and Child, by

hv Michael Angelo — portrait of Giulio Romano — the Holy Family,

Cardinal Agucchia, by Domeni- by Schidone — Hercules between

chino — ^Venus, with a Love be- vice and Virtue, by Rubens,

hind her, by Titian — another Ve- Cabinets containing Pictures of

nus, withflowers in her right hand, the Tuscan School, Jesus sleep-

and at her feet a dog! also by ing on his Cross, by Cristofano

Titian — a portrait of the prelate, AUori — ^the Head of Medusa, with

Beccadelli, by the same master — the hair changed into serpents, by

a Holy Family, with the Ma^da- Leonardo da Vinci ! — a fine Head*

lene, and the Prophet Isaiah, (supposed to represent Raphael,)

by Parmigianino — three pictures, by Leonardo da Vinci — ^the Nati-

namely, the Circumcision, the vity, and the Circumcision, two

Adoration of the Magi, and the pictures in one, by Fra Bartolom-

Resurrection, by Mantegna — the meo! — ^the birth of S.John, by

Madonna, our Saviour, S.Fran- Fra Giovanni di Fiesole — S. EVan-

cescd, and S. John the Evangelist, cesco, by Cigoli — S*. Lucia, by

by Andrea del Sartol— the Ma- Carlo Dolci — small Portraits of

donna in contemplation, by Guido I Dante'and Petrarca, TuscanSchool

— ^the Massacre of the Innocents, — ^the Coronation of the Madonna,

by Daniello da Volterrall — the by Fra Giovanni di Fiesole — ^the

Holy Family and S. Catherine, by Epiphany, by Domenico Ghirlan-

Faoio Veronese — a Bacchante, dajo — S. Ive, reading Petitions of

Pan, &c., by Annibale Caracci ! ! Widows and Orphans, by EmpoU

— S. Peter, by Lanfi-anco — S. Je- — Bust of Andrea del Sarto,

rome, by Spa^oletto— -the Ma* painted by himself-«-the Decapita*

Ch. Ill] ^-LORENCE. 69

tion of Holophernes, by Artemisia Giovanni da San Giovanni, &c. Lomi — the Adoration of the Magi, The flrst room up-statrs contains containing Portraits of the Me&i ten Statues taken from the Villa- Family, by Lippino — ^theVisitation, Medici; and the best of these is by AlbertineUil — a sketch of the a Minerva. The second room con. Adoration of the Magi, by Leon- tains Busts of Roman Emperors, ardo da Vinci—the Holy Virgin likewise taken from the Villa- enthroned, with the Infant Saviour, Medici. 0/A^ room# contain tiie S. John, &c., by Fra Bartolommeo following Paintings. A Portrait, — the same subject by Domenico byRembrandt— another, of Titian's Ghirlandajo — the Descent of our Mistress, by himself— three Land- Saviour into Purgatory, by Bron- scapes,bySpIvatorRosft— aBattle** lino — a Child grasping a Bird, piece, by ditto ! I — Catiline's Con- likewise by Bronzino — S. Zenobio, spiracy, by the same master — ^two Bishop of Florence, recalling a Landscapes, by Rubens — ^Asb-o- dead Child to life, by Ridolpho logers, by Zingona — Hunt«rs with Ghirlandajo — the Corse of the game, by Giovanni da San Gio- Saint carried to the Duomo, by vanni— our Saviour at supper, by the same master— the Martyniom Palma Vecchio — a portrait of the of S. Stephen, by Cigoli— ^Joseph Secretary S. Juliano, by Cristo- nresenting his Father to Pharaoh, fano Allori— a Child, by Santi di by Pontormo. Tito — our Saviour dead, S. John,

The Collections of Medals, Ca- the Madonna, and Mary Magda-

mei, and Intagli, Drawings and lene, by Fra Bartolommeo!! — a

JEngravings, which belong to the portrait of Giulio II, by Porde-

Florentine Gallery, cannot be seen none — the Deposition from the

by Foreigners without a special Cross, by Andrea del Sarto — ^a

order. Holy Familv, by Pordenone — ^the

The PcdazzO'Pitti^, now the Madonna aella seggiola, by Ra-

Royal Residence, was begun after phael ! ! I ! — S. Mark, by Fra Bar-

the design of Filippo di Ser Bru- tolommeo ! ! !— two Pictures of

nellesco, the most celebrated archi- Joseph and his Brethren, by An-

tect of the fifteenth century, and drea del Sarto— a copy of'^ Ra-

finished by Ammannati. In the phael's fresco of S. Peter delivered

Quadrangle is the Basso-rilievo of n'om prison, by Federico Zuccari

a Mule, who constantly drew a — ^the Madonna and Angels, by

sledge which contained the mate- Luca Giordano — S. Peter, by

rials employed in the building; and Carlo Dolci — our Saviour and

over this basso-rilievo is a Statue other Figures, by Cigoli — S. Se-

of Hercules, attributed to Lysip- bastiano, by Titian — ^two pictures

pus". On the Ground-Jhor is a of the Assumption, by Andrea del

Chapel, which contains a beautiful Sarto— the Hours, by Giulio Ro-

Altar of Florentine work, with the mano !— a Holy Famfly, by Titian

Last Supper, executed in pietre — S. Sebastiano, by Annibale Ca,-

dure, in its centre — ^the ceiling and racci— Cleopatra, by Guido — ^An-

walls are adorned with Frescos, of drea del Sarto and his Wife, by

which that representing theCru- himself— Giulio II, by Raphael! I

cifixion seems the best. The S. John, by Carlo Dolci— our Sa-

Grotind-floor likewise contains yiour and Saints, by Fra Barto-

fine Frescos, by Sebastiano Ricci, lommeo I— a dead Christ, by Pietra

(m) Lnea Pitti, an ostentations Florentine. (,) According to Winiclselmaan, this statne,

and the contemporary of Cosimo Pater tl»ingh ancient, is of a tome posterior to that

Pairia, began to erect this Palace ; but had of LysippQs. «ot sofficient wealth to finish it*

j^d noRENCE. . [Ch.irr.

Perugino — a Madonna and other that she might avoid, by death,

Figures, by Raphael!— four Saints, the disgrace of swelling Scipio's

by Andrea del Sarto — the Ma- triumph.

donna, our Saviour, &c. by Fra While Pietro da Gortona was Bartolommeo ! ! — Calvin, Luther, employed in painting the Camera

and Caterina a Boria! by Gior- di Venere, Ferdinando II, who gione da Castel-Franco, one of feame to view the work, expressed the Founders bf the Lombard- great admiration of a child drowned

school — the Madoftna, &e. by in tears. ** See, " replied the

Andrea del Sarto — a halWength painter, " with what facility chil-

Female Figure, by Carlo Dolci — dren are made either to laugh oi

Leo X, by Raphael ! ! — ^the Fates, weep ! " and, so saying, he gave

by Michael Angelo ! ! -^ our Sa- one stroke with his brush, and

Viour and the Madonna crowned, the child appeared to be laughing j

by Carlo Dolci — a Holy Family, till, with another stroke, he .re-

by Raphael t — a Magdalene, by stored the countenance to its ori-

"ntian — a Child, by Correggio — ginal form. ^

S. John, by Andrea del Sarto — a Ceiling of the Camera d Apollo,

Holy Family, by Schidone ! — and A Youth, who again represents

another very fine Picture on the Cosimo I, inspired with poetic fire,

same subject, painted by Raphael, and Apollo shewing him the celes-*

and lately added to this splendid tial globe, that he may sing of its

collection**. — ^The Ceilings of these wonders — Csesar attending to in-

apartments, up-stairs, painted by structive books as he walks, thai

Pietro da Cortona and his Scholars, he may not waste time — Augustus,

represent the patriotic actions of After having shut the Temple or

the Medici- family under emblems Janus, cherishing the Muses, and

taken from Heathen Mythology. listening to the iEneid— Alexander

Ceiling of the Camera di Ve- preparing to march, and taking

nere. Minerva forcing a Youth witn him part of the Iliad — thd

(by whom is meant Cosimo I,) Emperor Justinian forming a cod^

from the arms of Venus, to place of laws.

him under the guidance of Her- Ceilinfi of the Camera di Marte% cules ; while the Genius of War Cosimo I, under the form of a shews him the laurel-wreath he young warrior, leaping out of a ought to aspire after — The Conti- boat, and combating with his lance ; nence of Scipio — Antiochus quit- while Mars assists him, by darting ting his Mistress, to go where lightning at his Enemies — Castor duty calls him — Crispus, son of and Pollux carrying the spoils of the Emperor Constantine, resisting the Vanquished to Hercules, who the Solicitations of Fausta, his makes them into a trophy — Cap- step-mother — Cyrus dismissing his tives loaded with chains suppu-* prisoner, Panthea, that he might eating the goddess of Victory; not be seduced by her charms — ■ Peace, with the olive-branch i<i Augustus shev^ing Cleopatra that her hand, giving them comfort ; her beauty had not power to capti- while Abundance revives, and scat- vate him — Alexander receiving the ters blessings among the conquered mother and wife of Darius wiUi people.

humanity, but without being be- Ceiling of the Camera di Giove.

trayed into faulty admiration of Jupiter receiving a young Hero»

the latter — Massinissa sending who still represents Cosimo I, and

poison to the Queen of Numidia, is conducted to Olympus, by Her-

(o) The disposition of the easel pictures in would be impossible to specify in wKat room

le FaUzzo Fitti is so often altered, that it each work may be found.

Ch.III.] FLORENCE. - H

cules and Fortune, in order to re- pauls, according to the size of the ceive a crown of immortality. A party he attends ; and the servant Genius holds his hands before the below stairs-expects two pauls. Hero's eyes, to prevent their being The Giardino di Boboli, open dazzled by the splendour of the to the public on Sundays and Thunderer ; while another G^enius Thursdays, is very large, and con- presents the young man's armour, tains several pieces of sculpture ; perforated with javelins, to the the most remarkable of which are goddess of Victory, who engraves two Dacian Prisoners, in oriental his name upon a shield : she is porphyry, at the entrance ; a co- supposed to have just begun, and lossal Ceres ; the 'Fountain at th# only written the initial letter of end of the principal walk, de- the word Medids. The Frescos, corated with a colossal Neptune in form of a fan, represent the Em^ standing on a granite basin above blems of Peace ; namely, Minerva twenty feet in diameter, with the planting an Olive-tree — Mars Ganges, Nile,, and Euphrates b«- mount^ on Pegasus — Castor and neath, all bj Giovanni di Bologna; Pollux with their hdrses coupled Neptune, m bronze, surrounded together — ^Vulcan reposing in his witn Sea-monsters, by Lorenzi; forge — Diana sleeping after the and four unfinished Statues by chase. Apollo, god of arts, and Michael Angelo. Mercury, god of commerce and The Museo dhtoria NcUurale, wealth, appear among the emblems collected by the Grand Duke Lee* of peace ; while the General of the noldo, is said to be the finest Vanquished is represented as mak* Museum existing, with respect to ing ineffectual efforts to snap his the anatomical preparations in wan chains ; in which attempt he is and wood, the petrifactions and aided by Discord, who carries in minerals, and the thick-leafed, her hand a torch to relume the milky, and spongy plants; which flames of war. cannot be preserved in the eom»

Ceiling of the Stanza di Er-^ mon way, and are therefore beau* cote. Hercules on the Funeral- tifully represented in wax, to com- pile; above which is the Apotheo- plete the botanical part of this sis of that Hero, wHom Mai*s and princely collection. All the ana* Prudence conduct to Olympus, tomical preparations, in wax and where he receives a crown of im- wood, were executed under the mortalify. orders of Cav. F. Fontana, except

In an elegantly furnished Suite the famous representation of the

of Apartments, opposite to that Plague, which was done by the

Which contains the Pictures, are Abate Lumbo in the days of the

magnificent Vases of Sevres Por- Medici, and is so painfully fine

celain ; ornamented Clocks ; Ta- that few persons can bear to exa-

bles of Florentine Mosaic-work ; mine it. This masterly perform-

und Canova's celebrated Venus: ance owes its present place to Cav.

and in the Grand Duke's Library Giovanni Fabbroni, a gentleman

are the Manuscripts of Machiavelli already mentioned, who not only

aind Galileo, together with several contriouted essentially to the im-

other Manuscripts and Printed provement of the Museum, but

Works, which merit inspection. likewise to that of arts and sci-

The Palazzo- Rtti may usually ences in general. Below stairs is

he seen from ten to twelve in the a Laboratory. On the first floor

morning, and from three till five are two rooms fiUed with law

in the afternoon. The Custode up Quadrupeds, Fishes, *r^--7/ I-*-

stairs expects from four to six braiy— rooms destmed to iviecr?-

7SJ FLORENCE. [Ch.III.

nics, Hydraulics, Electricity, and Door. Over the southern Door is

Mathematics ; together with a Bo- a Group of the Madonna and our

tanic Garden : and on the second Saviour between two Angels, by

floor are twenty rooms, containing Giovanni Pisano. At the upper

the representation of the Plague, end of the Choir is a Crucifix, by

and Anatomical Preparations ; all Benedetto da Majano ; behind the

of which may be avoided by per- High Altar, a marble Pieth, said

sons not inchned to see them. In to have been the last work of Mi-

another suite of apartments^ on the chael Angelo, which death prevent-

same floor, are Birds, Fishes, Rep- ed him from completing ! ; and oil

tUes, Insects, Shells, Fossils, Mi- the Altars three Statues, by Ban-

nerals, Wax-plants, ^c. The Ob- dinelli, of God the Father, our Sa-

servatory makes a part of this Mu- viour, and an Angel. This Edifice

seum, which is usually open to the likewise contains statues, portraits.

Public every day, festivals except- and monuments of celebrated Cha-

ed, from eight in the morning till racters of the Florentine Republic*

twelve ; and again from three till On the right, near the great door,

five in the afternoon. is a Bust of Brunellesco ; next to

Santa Maria del Fiore, or the this, a Bust of Giotto ; further on,

Duomo, a Tuscan Gothic Edifice, are Pietro Farnese, General of the

was begun about the year 1290, by Florentines, and Marsilio Fecino,

Amolto, and finished about the the Reviver of the Platonic philo-

year 1445, by Brunellesco ; it mea- sophy ; a man, as remarkable for

sures (according to report) four his learning, as for the lowness of

hundred and twenty-six Paris feet his stature. Near the Door leading

in length, Its cupola was com- to the Via de' Servi, is an antique

pleted by the last-named architect ; Portrait of Dante, the father of

who has gained immortal honour Italian poetry ; whose tomb, how-

Dy the performance. Its Lantern, ever, is at Ravenna, where he died

designed by Brunellesco, is of solid in exile. This portrait was done

marble, finehr canned. The out- by Andrea Orgagna; and so highly

ward walls of this vast and gloomy do the Florentines venerate the

Church are incrusted with black memory of Dante, that the place

and white polished marble ; the where he often sat, in the Piazza

pavement is marble, and the balus- del Duomo, is carefully distin-

trades and pillars which surround guished by a white stone p. Near

the Tribuna were designed by Mi- this great poet, is the portrait of

chael Angelo, and ornamented with Sir John Hawkwood, a celebrat-

Bassi-rilievi by Bandinelli and ed General, (called by the Floren-

Giovanni del Opera. Toward the tines, Giovanni Acuto ;) and ano-

Via de' Servi, over a Door of cu- ther portrait of Niccolo da Tolen-

rious workmanship, is an Annun- tino ; and under the first-named

elation in Mosaic, called bv the picture is an Inscription, which

Ancients, Lithostratum, and exe- says, Acuto wa« a British Knight *».

cutedby Ghirlandajo: another spe- In the Chapel of S. Zenobio is a

cimen of the same kind is placed bronze Ciborio, by Ghiberti ; and

within the Church, above the Great the Door of the Sacristy was exe-

. (o) Dante was born at Florence, A. D. served in tbe martial contests between Pisa 1261. He fonght in two battles ; was four- and Florence, Sir John Hawkwood (having, teen times appointed Ambassador, and once together with his followers, *• the white Corn- Prior of the Repablic: but, nevertheless, pany," learnt the art of war under Kdward without having committed any crime against III, of England,) was by far the most accom- his country, he was stripped of his fortune, plished Commander ot his time : his last banished, and even condemned to be burnt years were devoted to the Florentines ; by alive. whom he was honoured with a magnificent iq) Among the. foreign Condottieri who funeral in 1394.

Ch.III.l . FLORENCE. t5

cuted by Luca della Robbia, the Chains, seen here, and in other

inventor of painting upon glass'. parts of the City, are trophies won

The Can^pcmile, aGreco-Araba- by the Florentines when ^ev con- Gothic c^uadrangular Tower of quered the ancient Porto-Rsano. black, white, and red polished mar- The interior jMort of the Baptistery ble, designed by Giotto, and bj^n is adorned with sixteen immense in 1334, is two hundred and ei^ty granite Columns, which support a Paris feet in height, and the most Gallery ; and between these Co- beautiful Edifice of its kind in Italy, lumns are Statues representing the The four Statues, on the side near* twelve Apostles, the Law of na- est to the Baptisteiy, are by Dona- ture, and ^e written Law, all by tello ; and one of these (called, by Ammannati ; except S. Simon, its author, his Zuccone, or Bald- which, in consequence of the ori- pate,) he preferred to all his other ginal statue being broken, was re* works, partly from the beauty of placed 1^ Spinnazzi. The High the sculptiu^, and partly because Altar is adorned with a Statue of it resembled one of his friends* S. John Baptist in tiie act of being The other statues are by Niccolo transported to Heaven by Angels ; Aretino, Andrea Pisano, Giottino, and tnis group, and the Ornaments and Luca della Robbia. of the P^pit, are by Ticciati. On

S. Giovanni, or the Baptistery^ the Ceiling are Mosaics by Apol-

supposed to have been originally lonius (a Grecian artist), Andrea

a Temple of Mars, is of an octan- Teffi, Gaddo Gaddi, ^c. The Pave« 

gular form, with a roof somewhat ment is chiefly Ancient Mosaic.

Ske that of the Pantheon.- The and in one part represents the Sun,

exterior wsdls are incrusted with with the twelve Signs of the Zodiac.

S3lished marble ; and the two In ancient mosaic, likewise, is the

ronze Doors, done by Ghiberti, following Inscription, which may

after the designs of Amolfo, and be read either backward or for-

formerly gilt, are so peculiarly ward : *' En giro torte Sol cicloi

beautiful, mat Michael Angelo used et rotor igne '."

to say, they deserved to have been The Chiesa di S. Marco, be-

the gates of Paradise. The other longing to the Padri Domenicani,

door was executed by Andrea Pi- is a handsome Edifice, adorned with

sano, after the designs of Giotto, ^od sculpture and valuable paint*

The foliage and festoons, round mgs. On the ri^ht of the great

the first-named-Doors, are by Ghi- door are — a Crucifixion, by Santi

berths son, Bonacorsa; iheBasai- di Tito — the Madonna, our StL^

rilievi represent Scriptural Histo- viour, and Saints, by Fra Barto-

ries. On the outside of the Bap- lommeo I — and an old Mosaic, re-

tistery is a celebrated Group, m presenting the Madonna, ^. The

bronze, by F. Rustici, represent- Cupola of the Tribuna was painted

ing S. John Baptist with a Scribe by Alessandro Gherardini; and be*

and a Pharisee. The two por- hind the high altar is the Last Sup-

phyry Columns, on the sides of the per, by Sacconi. To the right of

principal entrance, were presented the tnbuna is the Serragli-cnapel,

by the Pisans to the Florentines, the Ceiling of which was painted

in consequence of the latter having by Poccetti ! Here, likewise, are,

guarded Pisa while its inhabitants the Last Supper, by Santi di Tito,

were engaged in subduing Majorca and the Supper of Emmaus, by

and Minorca: and the pendent Cav.Curradi. Further on, is the

(r) The Meridian ia this church is said to (s) " Phoebus drives on, obli^^e. his fierf

be the largest astronomical instrument in car/* £arope.

H FLORENCE. [Ch. III.

SalViati-chapel,eoHipletelyincrust- best essences in Florence are fa-

ed with marble, and containing a bricated.

Picture, by Alessandro AUori, of The Church of the S. S. An^ the return of our Saviour fronr nunziata (a finely proportioned Purgatory ; a Statue of S. John Edifice) contains a Fresco of the Baptist, executed after the design Annunciation, done by a certain of Giovanni di Bologna, by Fran- Bartolommeo ; who being, it is cavilla ; bronze Bassi-rilievi, exe- said, at a loss how to make the cuted after the designs of Giovanni countenance of the Madonna pro- di Bologna, by Portigiani ; a Cu- perly seraphic, fell asleep, while pola, panted by Aless. Allori ; two pondering over his work ; Und, on Paintings, representing the Expo- waking, found it executed in a sition and Translation of S. Anto- style he was unable to equal, upon nino, by Passignano ; and, under which, he instantly exclaimed, " A the Arch of the Chapel, S. Anto- miracle, a miracle ! " — and his nino in marble, by Giovanni di countrymen were too fond of mi- Bologna '. Leading down the racles not t« believe him ; although Church, toward the great ^door, isi the Madonna's face is by no means a picture, by Cigoli, representing so exquisitely painted as to be at- the Emperor Heraclius, in the tributed to a heavenly artist. The habit of a Penitent, bearing the open Vestibule^ leading to the Cross; a fine copy, by Gabbiani, Church, is ornamented with several of Fra Bartolomtaeo's celebrated Frescos ; namely, a Nativity, by picture of the Madonna, our S»- Baldovinetti ; S. Filippo Benizzi vioiir, and S. Catherine; S. Vin- induced to embrace the monastic cenzio Ferreri preaching to the life in consequence of a vision, by people ; and the Transfiguration, Rosselli ; S. Filippo covering a by Paggi. The Ceiling of the nave naked Leper with his own shirt, is painted by Pucci ! ; and the Cur- by Andrea del Sarto ; S. Filippo, tain of the Organ, by Gherardini. while travelling toward Modena, In this Church are buried two ce- reviled by Young Men sitting un- lebrated men, Angelo Poliziano, der a tree, which being struck and Giovanni Pico della Miran- with lightning, two of the Reyilers dola, both highly famed for their are killed ; — this is by Andrea del learning; and the latter was not Sarto; as are, S. Filippo delivering only styled, " The phoenix of the a young Person from an evil Spi- ficiences," but called, by Scaliger, rit ; — ^a dead Child restored to life,

• vA prodigy — a man without a by touching the garment which co-

fault!" — They both died in 1494. vered the corpse of the Saint — Wo- The Sacristy of S. Marco con- men and Children kneeling round tains a Statue of our Saviour, by a Friar, who is adorned with thp Antonio Novelli • two Bassi-ri* relics of S. Filippo*s clothes ; — lievi, by Conti ; and, over the first and seven Lunettes, on the other Door, within-side, a Picture, by side of the vestibule. The Mar- Beato Giovanni Angelico ! The riage of the Madonna, is by Fran- Library is rich in Manuscripts — cabigio; the Visit of Mary to Eii- the Cloisters are adorned with sabeth, by Pontormo; and the Frescos, by B. G. Angelico, Poc- Assumption, by Rossi. This Cor- cetti, Fra Bartolommeo, Carlo ridor contains a Bust of Andrea Dolci, <^c. ,• and near the garden del Sarto. The Church of the is a chapel, painted by Poccetti, Annunziata is loaded with orna-«  and now the Spezieria, where the ments : in the centre of the Ceiling

^ (0 One of the Oratories of the Chapel of Naldini; namely, the Resurrectioft ofLazftA

'^. Autonino contains two fine JPictures, by rus, and the Vit»on of Eaekiel.

Ch. III.] FLORENCE. n

is an Assumption, by Volterrano • Meucei : and near this, is the CKa* who likewise painted the Cupola pel of Bandinelli, containing a dead of the Tribunal In the Chapel Christ, in marble, supported by which encloses the miraculous pio- Nicodemus ; the latter being a por- ture, is an altar, adorned with silver trait of Bandinelli, by whom this Bassi-rilievi ; two silver Candela*- group was executed. The Curtain bra about six feet high ; two large of the Organ, representing the silver Statues of Angels ; a Ciborio, Canonization of S. OiuUana, is by ^ beautifully worked, and embellished Romei. In a Corridor on the lell' with a Head of our Saviour, by side of the Church, is the cele<» Andrea del Sarto ; a silver Cornice, brated fresco, called La Madonna from which hangs a CurtailT of the del Saeco/ff deemed the master- same metal ; and an immense piece of Andrea del Sarto ; and at number of silver Lilies, and Lamps, which Michael Angelo and Titian which ei)circle the Altar. The are said to have gazed unceasingly./ Pavement of this Chapel is por- It is recorded, that the author of phyry and Eg3rptian granite ; and, this beautiful work did it for a sack in the adjoining Oratory, the walls of com, in a time of £unine. Here of which are incrusted with agate, are other Paintings, by eminent jasper, and other precious stones, artists ; and those in the Corridor, is a Crucifix, by Antonio di San which contains the Madonna dd Gallo. To the left of the great Sacco, y^ere done by Poccetti, who door is a Picture of the Last Judg-> has represented the most remark- ment, by Aless. AUori ; and ano- able actions of the Six Founders ther, of the Cruciftxion, by Stra- of the Monastery. Another Cor- dano : the Ceiling and Lunettes of ridor contains, Menetto preaching the Chapel on tljis side, at the end before S. Louis, King of France ; of the cross, are painted in fresco, Innocent IV, making his nephew by Volterrano ; and contain a curi- Protector of the order of Ser» ous old Picture, over the Altar, of vites, both by Rosselli ; and tha S. Zenobio, and other figures. In Madonna in a car, by Salimbeni. front of the High Altar, (which is Another Corridor exhibits Alexan* adorned with a splendid silver der IV giving Religion power to Ciborio,) are recumbent Statues, erect monasteries throughout the the one by Francesco da S. Gallo, world, by Rosselli ; . Buontlgliulo the other by Giovanbatista Foggi- resigning the Government of the ni : and behind the altar is a Cha- Church, by Poccetti ; three other pel decorated after the designs, and Paintings, by Salimbeni ; and, oa at the expense, of Giovanni di Bo- the Ceiling, small Portraits of logna, who was buried in it ; And illustrious Servites. The Refec- whose Tomb is adorned with a Cm- tory is adorned with a Fresco, by cifix and Bassi-rilievi, in bronze, Santi di Tito ; and, on the top of executed by himself, for the Grand- the Stairs, leadingto the Noviziato, Duke, by whom they were thus is a Fieth, by Andrea del Sarto, handsomely and judiciously appro- deemed one of his best works: prialed. The Chapel contains a this great Painter was buried in ricture of the Resurrection, by the open Vestibule before the Ligozzi ; a Pietd, by Passignano ; Church.

a Nativity, by Paggi ; and a Cu- The CMesa di Sa. Maria Mad*

poletta, by Poccetti I Leading from dalena dei Pazzi particularly de-

the high altar, toward the great serves notice, on account of the

door hi the opposite side of the Neri-Chapel, situated on the risrht

cross to that already described, is side of the Court leading to the

a Chapel, painted by Vinoenzio Church. The Altar-piece of this

76 FLORENCE. [Ch. III.

Chapel is by Passignano ; and its ter-room and Refectoiy of the

Cupoletta contains the chef-dcsu^ Monastery to which this Church

vre of Poccetti, representing the belongs, are embellished with the

Mansions of the Blessed!! In the works of Pernio, RaiFaellino

Church is a magni^cent Capella- del Garbo, and other celebrated

maggiore, incrusted with rare and artists.

beautiful marbles, and adorned The Chiesa di Santa Croce, by twelve Columns of Sicilian built about the year 1294, by Ar- jasper, with capitals and bases nolfo, and afterwards repaired by of bronze gilt Here rest the re* Vasari, is a vast Edifice, better mains of Sa. Maria Maddalena dei calculated to promote religious con- Pazzi, surrounded with Bassi-ri- temptation than any other church lievi of bronze eilt (expressing the at Florence. Over the Middle- most memorabfe actions of her door of the Facade, is a Statue, life), and four marble Statues, re- in bronze, by Donatello^-and at presenting her most conspicuous the entrance of the Church, on the virtues ; namely. Piety, Meekness, right, is the Tomb of Michael An- Penitence, and Religion. Meek- gelo; who was bom, at Chiusi, ness, with the lamb and dove, and near Arezzo, in 1474, and died at Religion with a veil, are particu- Rome, 1563 ; but the Grand-Duke larly worth notice ; especially the of Tuscany, jealous that Rome latter ; the features through the should have the honour of provid- veil being finely expressed. The ing a grave for this great and Cupola is by Pietro Dandini ; and good man, ordered his body to be the other Paintings, by Ciro Ferri removed thence, and buried in the and Luca Giordano. On the right Church of Santa Croce. The of the high altar is a Chapel family of Michael Angelo was adorned with Frescos, by Sorboli- noble : and his parents were ni, a living artist ; and on the left averse to his becoming an artist; another Chapel, likewise painted which they deemed derogatory to in Fresco, by Catani, a living ar- nobility : he, however, by unceas- tist. This Church also contains a in^ importunities, at length pre- fine Crucifix in wood, by Buonta- vaded upon them to let him follow lenti; and the Curtain of the his natural genius. Sculpture, Organ, by G. B. Cipriani, who Painting, and Architecture, are re- has left no other work in Flo-, presented, in mourning attitudes, rence, represents S. Maria Madda- sitting beneath the tomb of their lena receiving the Communion Favourite; whose Bust rests upon from the hand of our Saviour ! a sarcophagus : and a small Paint- The first Chapel, on the right, near ing, by Michael Angelo, is in- the great door, contains tne Mar- troduced among the ornaments tvrdbm of S. Romolo, by Carlo at the top of the monument. The Portelli ; said to be the only pic- statue of Sculpture, bv Cioli, is iU ture he ever painted; and on the done; Architecture, by Giovanni opposite side ofthe Church are, the dell' Opera, is more happily exe- Visitation, by Ghirlandajo ; Christ cuted ; and Painting, by G. Batista in the Garden, by Santi di Tito — del Cavaliere, better still : the bust and the Coronation of the Ma- of Michael Angelo is by the last- donna, by Angelico I The Chap- named artist ". The second tomb,

(u) Michael Angelo Buonaroti was not only about three miles distant from Florence ; and

deemed the most eminent Scnlptor and where the inhabit«nt8 were chiefly 8tone.cnt>

Architect of his time, bnt is likewise called ters and scnlptors; his nurse's husband fol-

the Founder of the Florentine, and French lowed the latter occupation; so that the

Schook of Painting. When an infant he was child's ipassion for thix art seems to hare beea

pnt out to nvse at the yiUage of Settignano, saeked in with his milk*

Ch, IIIJ FLORENCB. 7?

on this side, is that of Filippo Buo- This monument is by Ricci, now naroti, the antiquary— the third, a distinguished artist; but, not that of Pietro Michelli, called by long since, a peasant on the Mar- LinnsBus, '« The lynx of botany chese Corsi's estate, near Florence, —the fourth, that of Vittorio Al- The Bwroncelli- Chapel contains fieri, by Canova : who has repre- Paintings, on the walls, by Taddeo sented Italy mourning over the Gaddi ; and, over the Altar, a Pic- sarcophagus of the Poet ; which ture of the Coronation of the Ma- is adorned with masks, lyres, lau- donna, <J«. by Giotto. The Ric- rel-wreaths, and a head of Alfieri, cardi-Chapel contains good Paint- in basso-rilievo. The Florentines ings, by Passignano, Rosselli, are not pleased with the shape of and Giovanni di San GiovannL this monument ; neither do they Behind the high altar are paint- like the manner in which the figure ings, by Agnolo Gaddi, repre- of Italy is draped: and this last senting the Invention of the circumstance, united with the late Cross \ The Niccolini-Chapd* public revolutions, gave birth to the built after the design of Antonio !bllowingy<?M desfyrit. Dosio, and beautimUy incrusted '* Canova qnesta voita Vha sbagiiata, with rare marbles, coutaius fine Fe ritolia vstita ed h spogiiata." Pictures by Aless. AUori ; statues

The fifth Monument, on this of Moses and Aaron, by Franca-

side, is that of Machiavelli ; erect- villa ! and a Cupola, painted in

ed 266 years after his death, at fresco by Volterrano, the four Si-

the expense of the Literati. The bvls, in the angles of which, are

sixth Monument is that of Lanzi ; cnrfs-d'ceuvres. This quarter of

near which is an Annunciation, in the Church likewise contains a

marble, by Donatello. The eighth celebrated Crucifix, byDonatello,

Monument is that of Leonardo together with Pictures of the Mar-

Bnmi, Aretino, the Historian; tvridom of S. Lorenzo, by Ligozii;

which bears a Latin inscription to the Trinity, by Cigoli I and the

this purport ; " Since Leonardo Descent of the Holy Ghost, by

died, Historv mourns. Eloquence Vasari ! Leading toward the great

is mute ; ana it is said that neither door, and opposite to the monu-

the Greek nor Latin Muses can ments already described, are the

refrain from tears.'* The ninth following: First, the Tomb of

Monument is that'of Nardini, a Cocchio— second, that of Carlo

famous musician ; and the tenth Mazzopini — ^third, that of Carlo

that of an equally famous archi- Marzuppini, Aretino, finely ex-

tect, Pio Fantoni of Fiesole. The ecuted by Desiderio da Setignano

Castellani- Chapel contains a Pic- — ^fomrth, that of Lami, by Fog-

ture of the Last Supper, by Vasari; gini — ^fifth, that of Pompeio-Jo-

a Monument to the memory of sephi Signorinio, by Ricci; who

Cav. Vanni ; and another to that has adorned this sarcophagus with

of M. B. Skotnicki; representing a beautiftil recumbent figure of

Grief as a recumbent female figure. Philosophy, whose countenance

veiled, and lying on a Sarcopha- expresses deep sorrow. Near this

gus, which exhibits a pallet, tomb is a Picture of the Resurrec-

brushes, and an unstrung lyre, tion, by Santi di Tito ; together

(«) The history of the Invention of the teemecU however, impotsible to aBcertain

Cross is as follows. In 356, Saint Helena, the which of the three was that whereon our Sa-

mother of Constantine, being at Jemsalero, vioursnffered; till a learned prelate took them

ordered the Temple of Venns, which profaned all to the habitation of a dying lady, placing

that sacred spot, to be destroyed; m doinr her first on one, then on another, and then on

which, remams of the Holy Sepulchre were the third, which she no sooner touched thas

disooTered; and likewise three crosses; it the iU&esft left her.

n FLORENCE. [Ch.nL

with ihe Monument of the great Day I ! and another of Nijarht ! ! all and much injured GalUeo j erected by Michael Angelo— the Tomb of by order of Viviani, his pupil. Lorenzo de' Medici, Duke-of Ur- Tiie Bust of Galileo is by Foggini. bino; ornamented with a Statue History tells us that Galileo was of that Prince ; together with a at first interred in the Piazza Santa recumbent Figure of Twilight, and Croce (which is unconsecrated another of Day-break, a]l by Mi- ground ;) because he lay under ^hael Angelo ; and here, likewise, suspicion of heresy, on account of by the same great master, is a bis philosophical discoveries ; nav, Qroup of a Madonna and Child, \t is even asserted that the family which, if finished, might, accord- of Nelli (Viviani's executors) found ing to appearance, have proved the some diflficulty in obtaining Jeave finest of his works ! ! to remove his bones into the The old Sacristy r built by Bru^ Church, almost a century after his nellesco, contains a porphyry decease. Beyond this tomb is that Tomb, with bronze ornaments, of Filicajq. At the bottom of the made to . enclose the remains of Church is a Painting of the Re* Pietro and Giovanni, sons of Co- surrection, by Aless. Allori ! and simo Pater Patrice, by Verroc- the Pulpit merits notice, as it was chio.

executed by Benedetto da Majano. The Capella da" Medici, adjoin-

The Sacristy contains curious Pic- ing to the church of S. Lorenzo,

tures, in fresco, by Taddeo Gaddi; was begun in 1604, by Ferdinando

and, in the Monastery of Santa I, after his own design. Three

Croce, are Paintings by Cimabue hundred workmen were, for a con-

and Giotto. siderable time, employed upon this

^ . The Chiesa di S, Lorenzo, buijt building : but, latterly, the number

at the expense of a lady, named has been lessened ; and we have

Juliana, who lived during the already seen the ducal Family of

reign of the Emperor Theodosius, Medicis extinct, nay, perhaps, may

consecrated in^ 392, and rebuilt in see the Dukedom itself annihilated,

J 4 25, by Brunellesco, contains a ere the finishing stroke be given to

High Altar of beautiful Florentine this magnificent Mausoleum of its

work, done by command of the Princes. The building is octan-

Grand-Duke Leopoldo, and de- gular ; and the walls are beauti-

signed for the Chapel of Medicis : fully incrusted with almost every

awi, above this altar, are a Cru- kind of precious maible. Six sides

cifix, by Giovanni di Bologna, a pftheoct^^on are embellished with

Madonna, by Michael Angelo ; Sarcophagi of Egyptian and orien-

and S. John, by one of his scho- tal granite ; made after the designs;

lars. The Church likewise con- ofMichaelAngelo; andtwoofthem

tains the Tomb of Cosimo Pater (enriched with cushions of red jas-

PatricB ; ivio Pulpits adorned with per, which bear regal crowns of

bronze Bassi-rilievi, by Dona* great value. Here, hkewise, are two

tello; and a Ciborio of marble. Statues, in Jjronze, one of which is

together with an Infant Jesus, by by Giovanni di Bologna, and the

Desiderio da Setti^ano. . other by Pietro Tacc^. The sar-

The new Sacrtsty, or Capella cophagi are mere ornaments ; the

de" Principi, designed by Michael bodies of the Princes being placed

Angelo, contains the Tomb of Giu- perpendicularly under them, in a

liano de' Medici, Duke of Ne- subterranean repository.

nours, and brother to Leo X, The Cappella de* Medici may be

ornamented with a Statue of the seen dailj^, trom ten in the morning

Duke; a recumbent figure of till four m the afbemoop.

Ch. III.] FLORENCE. 70

Hie Libreria Mediceo- Lauren'^ are, theTomb of Villanadei Botti,

ziana, one of the most elegant by Setti^ano ; and a Painting of

apartments of its kind in Europe, the Madonna, by Cimabue, sup-

Yi&s built, under the direction of posed to have been Ihe first work

Michael Angelo ; by whom the de- tie ever did in Florence * ; and near

signs for the Pavement also were the latter is the Martyrdom of 8.

executed. The windows are beauti- Catherine, by Giuliano Bugiardini ;

fully painted in arabesque by Ra- several of the figures in which pic-

phaePs scholars ; and the Manu- ture were designed by Michael An-

spripts, which compose this library, gelo. This part of the Church also

are well arranged, nighly valuable, contains a Madonna, in Marble,

and several of them finely iUumi* by Benedetto da Majano. In the

nated. Here are, a Virgil of the cnoir, behind the high-altar, are

thud century, written in capitals — Paintings representing the lives of

an old Testament of the twelfth the Madonna and S. John Baptist,

century — ^the celebrated Pisao Pan- all by Ghirlandajo ; they comprise

dects of the sixth century — the portraits of the painter mmselt, and

Psalms of David of the eleventh of several of his most illustrious

century — a Prayer-book beautifully contemporaries ; among whom are

illuminated — a Missal, painted by pietro, Giovanni, and Lorenzo de*

the school of Pietro Perugino — a Medici. The High Altar was erect-

'copy of Dante, written only twenty- ed in 1804 ; and the Altar-piece is

two years after his death — a Livy by Sabatelti. The adjacent Chapel

of the fifteenth century, beautifully contains a Crucifix done by Bru-

illurainated — the Geography of nellesco, for the fieimous Countess

Ptolemy (of the fifteenth century) who lived with Donatello. In the

—-the becamerofie of Boccaccio, next Chapel is a picture of Christ

written two years before his death raising the dead, l»y Agnolo Bron-

— a Homer of the fifteenth century zino ; and a ceiling by the same

—a Horace with Petrarca's own artist: the Tombs and the 5a*«-

hand-writing in it — a celebrated rilievi in this Chapel are by Gio-

3yriac Manuscript — ^the Life of vanni deir Opera. A Chapel on

Lorenzo de' Medici, <^c. <^c. the top of some steps, and imme-

This Library is usually open to diately opposite to that wherein the

the Public, except during the va- Madonna of Cimabue is placed,

cation, and on festivals. A trifling contains Paintings by Andrea and

fee is expected, by the Sub-Libra« Bernardo Orcagna ; who have re-

rian, for attending Travellers. presented Hell in one part, and

The Chiem di Santa Maria No^ Heaven in another! This Church veUa, commenced in 1279, by two likewise contains, on one of its pomenican Monks, is externally an Pillars, the Martyrdom of S. Peter, unpleasing mixture of Greek and by Cigoli ; and a fine Painting of Gothic architecture ; but the inte- the good Samaritan, by Aless. Ai- rier is so beautiful, that Michael lori. The Paintings over the Door Angelo used to call it his Sposa, of the Campanile are by BufFsd- Over the Middle Door, on the in- macco ; and the adjoining Monas- side, is a Crucifix, by Giotto — andr tery contains several valuable Pres- to the right are the following Pic- cos by old masters ; among which tures : an Annunciation, by Santi there is said to be a Portrait of di Tito — a Nativity, by Naldinil — Laura*.

and the Resurrection of Lazarus, T/ie Chiem dOrsanmichele, one

by Santi di Tito. Here, likewise, of the eaxly specimens of Floren-

<w) Thi» is in a Ohapel to which you enter (*) The Spezieria of Santa Maria NovriU

bj-atepi. is celebratedfor perfumes, medicines, ^c.

80

PLORENCE.

tCh. III.

tine architecture, was originally a munion from our Saviour, is by

Market for Grain, commenced axj- Vignali. The Altar of the Holy

cording to the designs of Amolfo, Sacrament contains fine Sculpture,

and finished by Giotto, Taddeo by Andrea Contucci, da Monte-

Gaddi, and Orcagna. On the out- San Savino! near this is a Picture,

side are several pieces of sculpture, by Ghirlandajo, of our Saviour

namely ; Saints Matthew, Stephen, bearing his Cross I and the Trans-

and John Baptist, by Ghiberti ; S. figuration, by Pietro di Cosimo.

John the Evangelist, by Baccio da Itetuming to the Nave, in the first

Montelupo; Saints Peter, Mark, Chapel, is a Picture by Agnolo

and George, by DonateUo (the Bronzino, of Christ appearing to

last is psuticularly admired) ; S. the Magdalene ; and, next to this,

Philip the Apostle, S. Eligio, and is the Madonna, S. Sebastian©,

four other Saints in one group, by <J'C.; by Petrucci; copied from a

Nanni d' Antonio ; S. Thomas, by work of Rosso's. Beyond the or-

Andrea Verrocchio ; S. Luke, in gan, is S. Anne, the Madonna,

bronze, by Giovanni di Bologna I and another Statue of that Apostle, by Mino da Fiesole'. The inside of this Church contains Sculpture, by the revivers of the art.

The Chiesa di San Spifito, built

and other Saints, by Ghirlandajo ; and, near this, is a Statue of our Saviour holding his Cross, hy Tad- deo Landini, from the original of Michael Angelo, at Rome. The Capella-Maggiore, by Michelozzi,

by Brunellesco, is, in point of ar- is beautiful in point of architec- chitecture, the finest Church at ture, richly incrusted with precious Plorence. On the right of the en- marbles, and adorned with Statues trance-door is a copy, by Nanni of S. Peter and S. John. The roof di Baccio, of Michael Angelo's of the Vestibule to the Sacristy is Pieth, in S. Peter's at Rome. The one single block of stone. The Picture of our Saviour banishing Sacristy contains an Altar-piece, the Profane from the Temple, is by Filipj)o Lippi, of the Madonna, by Stradano — ^the Stoning of S. our Saviour, Angels and Saints I Stephen, by Passignano — and the and a Painting over the door, by Group, in marble, of the Arch- Poccetti, of S. Agostino, and an Angel Raphael and Tobias, by Angel in the form of a child ! The Giovanni Baratta. The second architecture of the Sacristy is par- Picture to the right of this group, ticularly fine ; and that of the is by Filippo Lippi — ^the Picture Campanile much admired, of the Madonna, our Saviour and The Chiesa del Carmine, begun S. Catherine, by the same mas- in 1268, was nearly destroyed by ter — and the Virgin appearing fire; and, in consequence of that to S. Bernardo, is a fine copy accident, repaired, not many years of a work of Perugino's. The since. The ceiling of the Church Picture representing several Mar- and its Cupola . were painted by tyrs, is by Aless. Allori — that, Stagi and Romei: subjects — ^the representing the Woman detected most renowned Characters of the in Adultery, is by the same mas- Old and New Testament— the Pro- ter — and the beatified Chiara da phet Elias conveyed to Heaven in Montefalcone receiving the com- a chariot of ^e — ^the Madonna

(^y) These splendid works owe their exist- ence to a decree of the Florentine Republic* importing that everv trade should (in order to adorn the Market) furnish one Statue, as the protector of its own avocation : and con- seqoently S. Luke was furnished br the Jews Md MotuiM; Sr Tbomaa hy the xetoU

traders; S. George by the cuirass and sword- makers; S. Mark by the carpenters; S. John the Baptist by the merchants; S. John the Evangelist by the silk manufacturers; S. James by the tanners ; Elijah by the handi- eraftmen ; S. Stephen by the woollen maaa- factnrers; and S. Matthew by the bankers.

Ch: III.J FLORENCE. 61

putting the veil upon S*. Maria to assist the Tloi*entines in the Maddalena de* Pazzi — ^the beatified battle of Anghiari! The Cupo- Angelo Mazzinghi in glory — and letta was painted by Luca Gior- the Ascension of our Saviour into dano. To the right of this chapel Heaven. On the right side of the is the Deposition from the Cross, entrance-door is a Picture of our by G. D. Ferretti, under a Cupo- Saviour on the Cross, "with the letta painted by Romei : and on Madonna aud Magdalene standing that side of the nave not already near, by Vassari — a Pieth by An- described is a Picture of S*. Maria tonio Guidotti ; and a Picture of Maddalena dei Pazzi receiving the S. Jacopo, by Lorenzo Lippi I The veil from the Madonna, by Fabbrini dappella della S. S. Vei^gine del — a Nativity, by Gambacciani — an Oarmine was painted by Masolino Annunciation, byPoccetti — and the ^ da Panicale, and Masaccio, his Adoration of the Magi, copied, by disciple, the first person who at- Viligiardi, from the celebrated pic- tained perfection m the revived ture of Gregorio Pagani. The Mo- art ; but, as he died young, his nastery, to which tMs Church be- .work was finished by Fiuppo Lippi, longs, contains Frescos by Vasari, the son of Fra Fihppo. Leonsuxio Poccetti, ^c. da Vinci, Fra Bartolommeo, An- The Chiesa di S. Trinita con- drea del Sarto, Michael Angelo, tains a Nativity, by Ghirlandajo — and Raphael, are supposed to have a Pieih, by Angefico ! — a Chapel derived the greater part of their belonging. to the Sassetti-family, knowledge from the study of these representing, in fresco, the life of excellent paintings ; which repre- S. Francesco of Assisi, by Ghir- sent the Life of S. Peter. In the landajo I — ^two Pictures in the Ca- Choir is a Tomb by Benedetto di pella degli Usimbardi ; one repre- Rovezzano. The Curtain of the senting S. Peter sinking, by Cris- Organ, (which is one of the best tofano Allori I — ^the other S. Peter instruments at Florence,) repre- receiving the keys of Heaven, by sents the Madonna giving the sa- Empolil — with Frescos above, by cred habit to Simon Stock ; and Giovanni di San Giovanni — a mo- ^as painted by Romei. But the dem Painting of S. Giovanni Gual- most striking thing here, is the berto, in the act of pardoning an Corsinir Chapel, magnificently in- Enemy, by Francesco Corsi — ^the crusted with rare marbles, and Sermon on the Mount, by Rosselli • containii^ the Sarcophagus of S. : — and an Annunciation, by Em- ^ Andrea Corsini, adorned with sil- poll, placed under a Cupoletta, r^QX Bassi-rilievi / Over the Altar finely painted by Poccetti. "Die Sta- is an Alto-rilievo, representing S. tue of S*. Maria Maddalena, be- Andrea Corsini, (who, from a tween the entrance-doors, was be- Monk, became Bishop of Fiesole,) gun by Settignano, and finished -ascending into Heaven ; this is by by Benedetto da Majan'o I The 4Gr. B. Foggini ; and, above it is Refectory was painted by Gio- God the Father in glory, by. Mar- vanni di San Giovanni, and Fer- ceUini. , On the sides of the Chapel rucci.

are two marble Alti-rilievi, by The Chiesa di S. Ambrogio con*

JFoggini ; the one representing the"^ tains a Chapel adorned with Sculp-

Saint reading his First Mass, and ture, by Mino da Fiesole ; and

the Madonna appearing, and say- Paintings representing the Mira-

ing, " Thou art my servant ; I cle of the Cross, by Cosimo Ros-

'have chosen thee ; and in thee will selli. The Picture in the Cappella

'I be glorified :" the other repre- del Rosario is by Passignano ;

senting his Descent from Heaven and the small Fresco, representing

It FLORENCK. CQU. III^

the Madonna, our Saviour, and 8» dond by Francabig^o, At the en« 

Anne, is by M asaeeio J trance of the Court aife figurea re^

The Church of 8. Gaeiano con* presenting Faith and Hojj^e ; and»

tains the best Oivan at Florence, on the sides of the opposite door,

and some good Pictures : thi Charity and Justice, all by An*

Church of Ognii*€mth likewise drea. The history of 8. John com<« 

contains good Pictures; and the mences with Zacharias becoming

Conservatorio di Ripolu in Via diunb, on account of his inoredu-

ddla Scala, merits the attention of lity. — Second pamting, Mary visit*

IVavellers who have time to spare, ing Elizabeth-— third, Eluabath

TAe Rsale Accademia deile belle brought to bed-^fourth, Zacharias

Arti, founded by the Grand-Duke blessmg S. John, who departs £6f

Leopoldo, is open to public iniqpec- the Desert, (this is by Francabino)

tion at the same hours with the ^-iifth, S. John meeting our Sa« 

Gallery, and merits notice, not only viour, as the latter returns from

on account of the liberality of the £g^tr (likewise by Francabimo)

institution, which gives all possible < — sixth, the Baptism of our Sa^

encouragement to rising genius, viour, by S. Johni>^seventh, SL

but likewise as it contains excel* John preaching in the Desert-^

lent Casts of the Baptistery-doors, eighth, the converted Jews reoeiv**

and most of the fine statues hi* ing Ba^tism^ — ^ninth, S. John ear*

thorto discovered in Italy. Here ried betore Herod. — ^tenth, Herod*a

is a noble Apartment, fitted up Supper and Dance— eleventh, the

with Drawings, ^c, for the use of Decapitation of S. John-— twelfth,

young painters ; other noble Apart* Herodias's Daughter with the head

ments, containing every necessary of S, John. It is recorded that

accommodation for those who are Andrea del Sarto received for each

further advanced ; a Gallery, con* of these frescos only twenty tivres %

taining paintings and sketches, by though many of them are exqui^

celebrated masters, among which sitely fine ; they will, however,

is a valuable Picture by Angelico, shortly be obliterated by the hu*

another by Giovanni di San Gio- midity of their situation, unlesa

vanni, of the Repose in Egypt ; restored in the manner now prac*

and a beautiful Head of our Sa- tised at Rome*, viour, by Carlo Dolci. This Aca* The Palazzo-Gmini is adorned

demy likewise contains Schools for vnth valuable Rctures, though the

Architecture, practical Mechanics, finest part of this collection has

^. ; and here also the Florentine been recently sold. Among those

work in pietre dure, called Opera '^hich remain are, Firet room-^

di comme9So, is made. Charity, by Cignani ; and Hagar

Not far hence are Cloisters which in the Desert, by HosseUi. Secmd

formerly belonged to the suppressed room — Head of a ^ung Female,

Company of S. Giovanni Batista, by Correggio ! Third room — tour

but are now in custody of the Heads, by Nogari ; and two Pic*

Academy, where the key is always tures, by Bassano. Fburth room

kept: these Cloisters, commonly — a landscape, by Both; ditto,

oailed^Oratforto£^/oSfca/jiro,con- by Swanevelt ; and ditto, by

tain Frescos representing the Life Paul Brill. Fifth room— -Prome*

of S.John Baptist, all by Andrea theus, by Salvator Rosa! — Head

del Sarto,' except two, which were of our Saviour, by Stradano ; Head

(•) Fifteen iMllmgt. vellen round the Rof«l Acadeny likewise

(a) TKe person who unlocks the door of the expects from two to three panls, ftocerdiag to

Oratorio dello Scalzo expects two panls for the number of th« party.

hit tsmMiM \ Md tha p«n«B wW AttewU Tr**

.Cb. JII.j PLOKKNOfi. «S

of ft Femial^, by CajAo Dold ! 5f*- persons, who, in great measure,

vmih room — ^Two Landscapes, by maintain themselves, by making

Both. S. Sebastiano, by Gnerci- Phrygian caps for the Mediterra*-

no I and the Assumption, by Carlo nean mariners, ribbons, cloth, ear-

Maratta. Eighth room — our Sa* pets, ^c. ^, There are work-

viour in the Sepulchre, by Tiarini I shops of almost every description

a dead Nun, bv Vanni ; a small in the house; and the Grand-Duke

Picture, by Rubens I the MadoiH of Tuscany, much to his honour,

n% (mr 8aviour» and S. John, by supports and benefits tins benevo-

ooe of the Caracei Family ; two lent and useful institution, whioh

anmll Pictures, by Peter Neff ; has cleared Florence of the innu-

Iklid two small Landscapes, by merable mendicants by whom it

Vemet. The Madonna, our Sa* was formerly infested. yiom, and other figures, by Fra The Spedale di Bomfcaio, or

Bartolottmeo. A portrait of Sal« Great Hospital, near the Porta

¥«tor Rosa, by himself; a Peasant San-Gallo, receives lunatics, and

playing ob a wind-instrument, by persons afflicted with chronie dis^

Muril£^ A Hol;f Family, by Ra* orders, and is spacious, clean, and

pbael ; a portrait of a Woman airy. The sick appear to be com-

Witb a Veil, by Santi di Tito ; and foitably lodged and well attended ;

an old Man with a Child in his but the funds belon^ng to this

arms, by Guido 1 1 charity are not sufficiently ample

The Palastto-Rieeardi, erected to supply convalescent patients

by Cosimo, Paier PairicBy accord- with a proper quantity of nourish*

mz \o the designs of Michellozzi, ment. Detached from the rest of

is a splendid edifice. The Ceiling the building are excellent apart-

of the Gallery is beautifully painted ments for lunatics, by Luca Giordano ; the Ceiling of The Spedale di Santa Maria

the Library is by the same master; Nnova contains upward of a thoti« 

and the ooUection of Manuscripts sand beds, and the patients are ex-

and Printed Worka is valuable. tremely well attended.

The Paiazzo^Corsini conioms 9i. The Spedale degV Innocenti

few good paintings. usuaUy contains three thousand

The Palazzo'Mozzi, near the Children, who have not, however,

Ponte a la Grade, contains fine a sufficient number of nurses ; and

Paintings, by Salvator Rosa. the custom of binding up everf

The Palazzo-Btwnaroti, in Via new-bom infant in swaddhng

QkibelUna, is interesting, from clothes frequently distorts the

havii^ been the residence of Mi* limbs, nay sometimes produces

chael Angelo, and likewise from mortification and death, preserving some remains of his The Column of Saravezza*

woiics. marble, in Via Pomona, was

ThePalazzO'StrozziisAspleaSd erected by Cosimo I, in memory

specimeii of Tuscan architecture. of the Battle of Mareiano — the

The Palazzo- Uguccioni, built Grramte Column, near Ponte Santa

after the design of Michael Angelo, Trinith, was Iwrought from Rome,

eantains a Painting, by Perino del and erected at Florence by Cosimo

Vaga, of the Passage of the Isra- I, in memory of the conquest of

elites through the Red sea ! Siena. There is, on its summit, a

The Casa dei Poveri, in Via figure of Justice, which gave rise dei Maioontenti, which owes its to the following proverb : ** Jus- establishment to the Emperor Na- tice, at Florence, is too high to be polecMa, is an immense Edifice, ca^ reached.'*' — the Column near the paWa of k)dging three thousand Bo^isteryt in the Piazzo del

M J?LORENCK [Ch. 111.

Duomo, was erected to record a when polished, the variations of Its

Miracle, relative to the corpse of yellow and brown veins represent

S. Zenobio. trees, landscapes, and ruins of old

The bronze Wild-boar , in the walls and castles; several petri-

Mercato-nuovOf is a Copy, by Pie- factions are also found in this

tro Tacca, of the famous Antique neighbourhood,

in the Gallery de' Medici. The A long residence at Florence is

Pedestal adorned tvith Bassi-ri- deemed injurious to the sight,

lievi in marble, which stands near owing, perhaps, to that glare wmch

the entrance of the Church of S. proceeds from the reflection of the

Lorenzo, was done by Bandinelli, sun upon white houses, and like-

and represents Giovanni dei Me- wise to the fogs which prevail here

dici, father of Cosimo I, with Pri- in winter.

soners and Spoils. The Group This City boasts the honour of

of Hercules killing the Centaur, having given education to Dante,

Nessus, which stands near the Petrarca, Boccaccio, Gorilla, the

Ponte-Vecchio, is by Giovanni di celebrated/mprovt7i«a/rtc6,whowas

Bologna I — The Ptazza-Annun- crowned at Rome, Americo Ves-

ziata contains an Eauestrian Sta- pucci, (whose voyages to, and dis-

tue of Ferdinando I. Over the cover ies in, the new world obtained

Porta San-Gallo is a Fresco, by him the honour of calling America

Ghirlandajo ; and, just beyond the by his own name,) Machiavelli»

Gate, a magnificent Triun^hal Galileo, Michael Angelo, and a

Arch, erected in honour of the larger number of distinguished

Emperor Francis I, when Grand- artists than any other -j^Bce in

Duke of Tuscany. On the outside Europe.

of a house, near the Porta Romana, The Accademia delta Crusca,

is a Fresco, by Giovanni di San which has, for a length of years,

Giovanni, representing the City of been established at Florence, is too

Florence, under the form of a per- well known to need description ;

son clothed in royal robes, and the and this Academy is now united

other Cities of Tuscany as Females wijth two others, namely, the Fio-

paying homage to their Queen. rentina, and the Apatisti, vmd&r

The Ponte Santa Trinith, built the name of Reale Accademia Fio-

by Ammannati, is remarkably ele- rentina,

gant. There are several good Hotels

Florence contains three Thea- at Florence**, and the markets are

ires, the Pergola, or Opera-house, constantly well stored with excd-

a beautiful Edifice, well secured lent eatables, fish excepted, which

from fira, and originally built after is never fresh but on Fridays and

the design of Pietro Tacca — the Saturdays. The Florence wine is

Cocomero, smaller than the Per- good and wholesome, but the same

gola — and the Teairo Nuovo. report cannot be siven of the wa-

The Florentine Mosaic Work, ter, except that which comes from and the Sculpture in Alabaster of Fiesole, and supplies the fountains Pisani, in the Prato, and Bartolini, of the Piazza-Santa- Croce, and in Via della Scala, are much ad- the Palazzo-Pitti. It is remark*- mired. Tliis country is likewise able, however, that all the Flo- celebrated for a sort of marble rence water, when analysed, ap- which splits almost like slate, and» pears wholesome ; and oonse^

(i) The HAtel dei Armes d^Angleterre^ kept sells Aiiti>attrition Grease for wheels ; and

by Gasperini, is an excellent Inn, where din* likewise repairs English travelling carriages

ners, generally speaking, are better cooked, remarkably well. ShneidexjB^t is a rerjr ea-

and more comfortably served, than at the pacioas and good Inn. The QwUtri Naxumt^

ptbfr Hotels. Oatpemi bailda carriages ; and The Nuova York, are also good Ibos,

Ch. III.]

FLORENCE.

85

quently it seems propable that the exhibiting nothing like antique

noxious quality may proceed from costume, except the habit of the

copper vases in which it is drawn, charioteers,

and usually suffered to stand. On the morning of the Festa di

though large glass bottles, seciured S. Giovanni homage used to be

by a case of reeds, for the piupose paid by all the Tuscan cities to

of holding water, might be easily their Prince, but this custom is, for

met with. the present, abandoned, owing to

The climate of Florence is cold the pageants, which represented

during winter, very hot during the several cities, having been near-

sununer, but delightful in autumn ly destroyed by the Flrench.

and spring ^, . In the afternoon of this day is

Doctor Kissock, a skilful and the Corso dei Barbert, a race per-

experienced English Physician, re- formed by horses without riders*,

'sides in this City. and which, from the multitude of

On the Vigil of the i^(?«todt San spectators, the splendour of the Giovcmni, (the Patron Saint of equipages, and the eallant appear-* Florence,) is the Corso dei Cocchi, ance of the troops who attend their or Chariot Race; probably an Sovereign, is an extremely gay epitome of the ancient Etruscan sight. The horses have, fastened Games. This exhitrilion takes to their bodies, little spurs, so con- place in the Piazza of S** Maria trived that the quicker the ani- Novella- At the upper and mal gallops, the more the^ run lower end of the Piazza are obe- into mm. The race-ground is the lisks, to each of which is fastened longest street at "Florence, where a cord; its centre being held up many of the spectators stand, with- bv six poles, supported by men out any defence whatsoever, fre- clothed m ancient costume. Round quently meeting with accidents by the Piazza, in an amphitheatrical ur^ng the horses on. When these form, are scaffoldings, ornamented ammals reach the yoal, they are with rough fresco paintings of stopped by a large piece of canvas, yases, &c., which produce, how- which several men hold up ; the ever, a good effect : at the upper Sovereign then announces the win- end is the Royal Box, handsomely ning horse, and thus ends this decorated: under the scaffoldings amusement, which is followed by are posted horse and foot guards ; a pretty exhibition of Fire-works and round the Piazza, above the at the Palazzo- Vecchio '. scaffoldings, are balconies, win- The Game called PcUhne, a fa- dows, and even house-tops, crowd- vourite exercise at Florence, merits ed with spectators. Were the notice, because it was played by chariots made in the ancient form, the ancient Romans ; who are de- this exhibition would be far more scribed as striking the follis with interesting ; but they are modem, the arm guarded, for that purpose, in point of shape, and very clumsy ^ by a wooden shield; the mode of

(c) Persons who wish to preserve health in Tuscany, should be careful never to eat sweet things made with orange-flower water, falsely so called ; it being, in this coantry, a distillation from the Italian laurel-leaf.

{d) An extraordinary circumstance; as the smaU wickerwork carts of the Tuscan peasants in shape resemble ancient cars ; and would, if slightly decorated, be quite proper for die Corso dei Cocchi.

(e) This kind of race, according to Diony-

sius of Halicamassus, was one of the most an- cient amusements of Etruria and Rome.

(/) ^o nniversal is the rage for splendoar at this festival, that a milliner, at whose house an English family lodged, absolutely hired for the day, at a great expense, a coach with two footmen in laced liveries, that she might parade about the streets in style ; nay, further, this Person and her apprentices, though generally dressed in the plainest manner poesible, were now adorned w»^' diamonds*

IS ENVIRONS OF FLORENCE. [Ch. III.

playing continues precisely the rooms, tenninated by a terrace :

same to the present moment ; and and round the third story runs a

this game, like most of the ancient gallery which commands a pton*

exercises, is well calculated to give pect so extensive that it se«m8 td

eourage and strength. overlook all Tuscany. On the out-

The Environs of Florence are side of the house are noble por-

extremely interesting. The usual ticos.

airing of the upper ranks of per- Poggi Imperiale, about one milti

sons is to the Royal Farms , or from the Porta Romana, is a royal

Catdni; which are open to the Villa containing an admired Statu©

Public at all hours ; though it is of Adonis, by Michael Angelo ;

unwholesome to walk, ride, or drive, and Portraits of Petrarca, and

in these beautiftd farms very early Laura, by Albert Durer. The

in the morning ; and equally preju- prospects from this spot are beau-*

dicial to remain there after sunset, tiful ; and not far hence stands th« 

Careggi de" Medici, about three Monastery of S. Matteo in Aree-

Biiles from the Porta San-Gallo, tri, near which are vineyards that

was the favourite retreat of Lo- produce the celebrated wine called

renzo il Magniftco; and in the Verdea,

Hall of this Villa the Platonic So- Pratolino, a royal Villa about eiety used to assemble, and form six miles from the Porta S. Gallo, plans for those statelv edifices and is famous for its Garden ; which patriotic institutions by which Lo- contains Water-works, and. a Sta- renzo embellished and benefited tue of the Apennine, sixty feet in his country. The house stands height, by Giovanni di Bologna, upon an eminence, whence the On the way to Pratolino is thd ground falls gradually almost every modem Campo-Santo of Florence, way; opening, on one side, to a Ji'gffo/e, anciently /te#w/«p, aeon- view of Florence; on another, to siderableOity of Etruria, is proudly a prospect of Val d'Arrio ; while, seated, on a summit of the Apen- on another, rise mountains, co-* nine, in a most enchanting situa- vered with neat fiarm -houses and tion, about three miles and a half magnifitsent villas ; and, on ano- from the Porta-Plnti, by the Ma«  ther, is Fiesole, dignified with ruins jano-road. Light carnages may of ancient Etruscan and Roman go with perfect ease and safety, as splendour ; and, to complete the far as Majano, wluch is two-third» deliciousness of the situation, cool of the way : but thence, to thif and refreshing breezes almost con- Francescan Convent, at Fiesole, stantly blow, about noon, from the tiie best conveyance is a trainMU / Gulf of Bpezia, and make the in» which the Peasants jit Majano can habitants of Careggi unconscious always fhrnish. Between the lat- of oppressive heat, even in the ter place and Fiesole is th€ Dooia / dog-days ; — no wonder, therefore, a Monastery built by Michael that the elegant and wise Lorenzo Angelo, a^a deliciously situat^dr should have called this his favou- The ancient Etiniscan Tovm of rite abode I Careggi, like the ge- Fiesole is supposed to have been nerality of Tuscan villas, is built destroyed by an earthquake, lon^ upon arches ; and consists of an before the period wiien Sylla immense ground-floor with a spa- founded a colony there : the Walls pious hall in its centre, and several of this Town, however, are in se- surrounding rooms; every ceiling veral places discoverable: and it being archwi, and every apartment seems evident, from the manner ix^ oool. Above stairs is'^another large which they present themselves, hall, with a handsome suite of that they were thrown down by

dh. irlj ENVIRONS Of PIORINCE. 8^

ibiii« <M>iiy!d8{<m of natuM! thejr wastupprMMd. VallomlirmiaiiMlf appear to have originally oonristed su^red very littl« trom being un* ' of large hewn etones without ee- der the dominion of fVanoe ; and ment, like the walls of Pompeii the Certota it now re*eitabluihed» and Peestum. Here, likewiBe, are Mulet are the neoestary convey* i^mains of an Amphitheatre, built anee fbi* persons who cannot on the side of a nUl : the shape walk ; there being no carriage and size of the Edifice, some of road to the Convent, the stairoases> seats^ and caves for Lovers of wild scenery would wild beasts, together with the re« be mtified by proceeding from servoir of water which belonged Vallombrosa to ih€ Abbey qf lAe to this theatre, may be traced*: Camatdolit about Ihirty-six miles and here, also, is an ancient Tem- from Florence ; and thence to the pie, now roofed, and made into a Convmi of Lavemia (mom Al* Ohurch. Fourteen fine Oolumns vemust) about fourteen miles fiir- with Ionic Capitals, the Pave* ther. The former of these Con- ment, and the Altar of the ancient vents was suppressed by tha building still remain ; though the French ; who cut down much of Altar has been moved from its ori- the fine wood belonging to it : now, ginal situation. This Temple is however, this Convent is re-estab- supposed to have been dedicated lished; though its inhabitants, to Bacchus. The Walls of the about thirty in number, are too Roman Town may, in some places, poor to entertain visitors gratis ; be traced; as may the Pavement and therefore Travellers, after of the streets, which resembles eating or sleeping under its roof, that of Pompeii. The modem usuaUy make a present to the Town, if it may be so called, con* community. The convent of La- tains a spacious Cathedral, built vemia never was disturbed by the in lOflS, apparently on the site of French ; and contains, at present^ an ancient Temple ; and adorned about sixty Capuchins, with Sculpture by Mino da Fiesole, The modern- Florentines, like and Andrea Ferrucci, Fiesolano ; their Etrurian ancestors, are fond and likewise with a Picture of the of learning, arts, and sciences : Martyrdom of S.Thomas, by Vol- and, what is more estimable ana terrano ; here, also, are, an fijpis- endearing to Foreigners, they are, copal Palace, a Seminar^r, and a generally speaking, mild, good-hu- FVancescan Convent, which last moured, warm-hearted and Mend- stands on the spot called Roeea ly. The Tuscan peasantry, eon- deiFiesolanu sidered collectively, are pure in VaUombroM, about fburteen their morals and pastoral m their miles distant from FlesOle, is worth manner of living ; and the peculiar notice ; not only l^ause it has comeliness of both sexes is very been immortaliECd by Milton, but striking, especially in that tract oif likewise on account of the beauty country which extends from Flor- of ttie country, and the noble ence to Pescia: but it is only CeH»sa of Vallombrosa, which among the peasantry that one can . still contains fine Paintings ; though form a just idea of Italian beauty ; the finest were, according to re- and pemaps it is only among the port, removed when the Convent peasantry one can fbrm a just idea

f «) The Btrqritisi are ftimed for havipg Etruria, and perform pUfs, tor the Sift

mTettted AttphUhealree t terether with the time, at Rome; the Romanii t^ij fj^f?*

games called Currtli, and CertanU «let CatMtli; new «ime« mt*ht appeaee the f04s, a|»a %top

and ab«nt «h« year of Rome 400, comedians a theft vas^vg elekaeM* were inyited, by the Romans, to come from

88 . TUSCAN PEASANTRY. tCh. III.

of the Italian character ; inhabit the interest received is that high tants of populous cities being gratification which the woman de-*. nearly alike whether in London, rives from exhibiting her oma- Paris, Vienna, Florence, or Rome, ments on gala-days ; and these The men are tall, robust, finely ornaments continue in the family proportioned, and endowed with for ages, unless the pressing caU that entile self-possession which of necessity compel them to be inspires respect. The women are pawned, or sold. When the Sposa of a middle stature; and were it is taken in labour, the husband, not for bad stays, would be well after procuring medical help, made. They have large, languish- deems it his next duty to get some ing black eyes, accompanied by of what is denominated The life- that expressive brow which consti- giving plant, {aleatrice the peasants tutes the most remarkable and call it,) which he places on her captivating part of an Italian coun- bed ; and without which, he be- tenance. Their manners are un- Ueves his child cannot be born* commonly graceful ; and, instead This custom is derived from the of curtsying, they gently bow their Greeks ^4 About 2^ fortnight after bodies^ and kiss the hand of a su- tiie birth of an infant, its parents perior ; a practice common, indeed, give a christening dinner*, to their throughout Italy. These peasants relations ; on which occasion every (like tnose of Italy in general,) are guest brings a present, as was the tolerably well informed respect- practice at Athens ; and the din- ing the history of their country; ner is served di^h by dish, likewise and, 'moreover, so fond of its an ancient custom. On the hus- Poets as frequently to know their bands demise the eldest son be- works by heart. - comes heir-at-law ; but is obliged When two young peasants agree to portion hi^ sisters ; and eimer to marry, the banns are published maintain his mother, or return her three times in a parish church; dower ^: all his relations frequently after which they receive the nup- live with him: but the largeness tial benediction. The bride's por- of the family creates no confusion ; tion is paid three days before mar- there being a superior over the ria^e, one half in wearing-apparel, men, and another over the women, and the other half in money ; who allot, to every person* their which the bridegroom usually ex- business ; which is thus kept dis-

gends in purchasing jewels for tinct. A Tuscan farmer shares is lady ; which consist of a pearl equally with his lord in the pro- necklace, cross, and ear-rings, fre- duce of an estate ; and the owner quently intermixed with rubies; even provides seeds, plants, ma- and worth from twenty to thirty nure, implements of husban^, in pounds sterling: these jewels being short, whatever may be requisite considered by the man as the wo- for the cultivation of the land, man's exclusive property : indeed, The upper class of farmers usually money so invested may be looked possess a horse and a market-cart, upon as placed in a bank; while a waggon» and a pair of large

(K) Some of the Grecian ladies ased to hold he sustained great losses by means of Pene*

palm-branches in their hands, in order to lope's suitors, thinks it imprudent to send her

procure an easy delivery. home to her father ; because that could not be

(t) Children in Roman-Catholic countries, done without returning her dower —

however, are christ^ed immediately after " I could not now repay so ^reat a sum,

their birth. To the old Man, should 1 dismus her home

(Jf) An^ elder son among the Greeks was Against her will."

obliged either to maintain his mother, or re- HoMSB*s Odyuey, turn her dower : hence Telemachos, though

Ch.in.j

TUSCAN PEASANTRY.:

8^

dove-coloured o^en, vrho draw the waggon and the plough, whose colour seldom, if ever, varies^ throughout southern Italy, and whose heauty is as remarkable as that of their masters. The female peasants, besides working in the vineyards almost equally hard with the men, often earn mone^r by keeping poultry, and sometimes one or two lambs ; whose fleecy coats the children decorate, on the Festa di San Giovanni, with scar- let ribbons tied in fantastic knots : and by the aid of money thus ac- quired, wearing-apparel, and other necessaries, are purchased. Shoes and stockings are deemed super- fluous, and merely ornamental, even by the women; who cany them in baskets on their heads, till they reach a town; when these, seemingly embarrassing decora- tions are put on : for me Conta^ dina is as vain of her appearance as the Dama nobile ; and, no won- der—since the pictiwesque dresses and lovely countenances of these peasants arrest every eye, and shew them, perhaps too plainly, how strong are their powers of attraction.^ The phraseology of the Florentine peasants is wonder- fully elegant: but the most re- markable quality of these persons is their industry ; for, during the hottest weather, they toil an day without sleep; and seldom retire early to rest : yet, notwithstanding this fatigue, they live almost en- tirely upon bread, fruit, pulse, and the common wine of the country : however, though their diet is lignt, and their personal exertions are almost perpetual, they commonly attain old age; especially in the neighbourhood of Fiesole. . 'Die following is an account of a Dance given, at Care^gi di Ric- cardi, by the family of uie Author of this Work, to all the sinround-

ing peasants. Ourball-roomvraft a lofty apartment sixty feet by thirty ; and in the centre of the ceiling hung a lustre, composed of such light materials that every puff of wind gave it motion : indeed it had the appearance of being con-^ tinually turned round by an invi^ sible hand: this lustre we filled with candles ; and the walls, which were adorned with full-length por- traits of the Medici-Princes, we likewise decorated with festoons of vines, oUve-branches, flowers, and l€unps, so that the whole apart- ment resembled an illuminated ar- bour. At sunset, on the appointed day, our guests appeared. altoge- ther upon a lawn leading to the villa, preceded by their own band of music : and no sooner did this procession reach our hall door, than the musicians struck up a hvely tune ; while the dancers, as they entered, formed a quadrille, whica would have been applauded on any. opera-staffe. When this dance with finished, the female peasants advanced, in couples, to the top of the hall, where we were seated^ paying their compliments to us was as much ease and elegance as if they had been educated in a court : and then commencing an- other quadrille, different from, but quite as pretty as the first. With a succession of these dances we were amused till supper; after which our visitors, who had been regaled with punch, a liquor they particularly rSish, came once more to us; when the women returned thanks for their entertainment, kissed our hands, and, presenting their own to their partners, bowed and retired."

Another circumstance, which occurred to the family of the Au- thor, and of which the following is a brief detail, serves to shew the grateful and delicate turn of

(0 The ancient and elegant costume of the Tuscan peasants is leas frequently worn

than it need to be twenty years since.

60 TUSCAN PIASANTRY. [Oh. IIi;

ihind pdsseised hy ihe Tuscan tearning thus mueh, wt pmiefit«d

Peasants. our new aoqusintance with a paul

• < One day, as we were walking — ^but to describe the ecstasy this

near Careggi, we observed a girl, gift produced is impossible. —

apparently about fourteen years *♦ Now,'* cried she (when a flood

of age, watching a flock of goatf, of tears had enabled her to speak),

and at the same time spinning '^ now loan purchase b. corona^

with great diligence ; her tattered — ^now I can go to mass, and pe-

garmentsbespoke extreme poverty; tition the Madonna to preserve

but her air was peculiarly dignified, my kind benefactresses I "

and her countenance so interesting, On taking leave of this inte*

that we were irresistibly impelled resting creature, we desired she

to give her a few crazie. Joy and would sometimes pay us a visit :

gratitude instantly animated her Our invitation, however, was only

flne eySs while she exclaimed ; answered by a bow : and, to our

"Never, t31 this moment, was I regret, we neither saw nor heard

woj4hfe9 much money!" — Struck of her again, till the day before

t^heitwbrds and manner, we in- our departure from Careggi; when

quire<^tef^ name ; likewise asking it appeared that, immediately after

where her parents lived? " My her interview with us, she had

name is Teresa," replied she; "but, been attacked by the small-pox,

alas, I have no parents." " No and was only just recovered,

parents! — ^who, tnen, takes care During the next summer, al*

of you ?" — ** The Madonna." — though we again resided in the

" But who brought you up ?" — same neighbourhood, we, for a

" A peasant in Vallombrosa : I considerble time, saw nothing of

was her nurse-child ; and I have Teresa. One day, however, we

heard her say my parents delivered observed a beautiful white goal;

me into her care; but that she did browsing near our house ; and, on

not know their name. As I grew going out, perceived our Proteg<i^

up she almost starved me ; and, with her whole flock. W^ now

what was worse, beat me so cm- inquired, almost angrily, why she

clly, that, at length, I ran away had not visited us before? — " I

from her." ** And where do you was fearful of obtruding," replied

live now?" ** Yonder, in the the scrupulous girl ; ** but I

flain (pointing to Val d'Amo) ; have watched you at a distance,

have fortunately met with a mis- ever since your return ; and i

tress who feeds me, and lets me could not forbear coming rather

sleep in her bam: this is her flock." nearer than usual to-day, in the

" And are you happy now ?" " O hope that you might notice me."

yes ! very happy. At first, to be We gave her a scudo, and again

sure, it was lonesome sleeping in desfa^ she would sometimes call

the bam hy myself; 'tis so far upon us. ** No," replied she, ** I

from the house ; but I am used am not properly dressed to enter

to it now : and indeed I have not your doors ; but, with the scudO

much time for sleep ; being obliged you have kindly given me, I shall

to work at night when I come immediately purchase a stock of

home ; and I always go out with flax ; and then, riiould the Ma-

the goats at day-break : however, donna bless me with health to

I do very well ; for I get plenty work hard, I may soon be able,

of bread and grapes ; and my by selling my thread, to buy da*

mistress never beats me." After cent apparel, and wait upon you,

(m) Without a cwnna she Informed tts that she eotiltl &ott)ei>ermitted to go to mass.

Oh. IVJ PISA. b(

'dofiitd with thi ftwits rf your dcmned to petpetuRl Ubour u

bounty."— And, indcMl. it wm not gaUey-slayes : and to these, and

lonKbabre w« hftdtheplcuureof many other equally wine regula-

MBlng h« come to viilt us, neatly tions, made by Leopoldo, are at-

dnsMd, and eKhibiting a picture tributable the almott total exemp-

©f content," tlon from rol>bery and murder

Aoemding to the exoellent Lawl which thli coiintry has lon^ en-

of the Emperor LeopoMo, no joyed; and the incr«BM to its

maA em be iaprisoned for delrt, population of two hundred fhou-

tiiou^ creditors have power to sand inhabitants; an astonishing

Miie the properbr of their debtors ; difference, aa the originBl number

Wd BO offence is punishable with was ijnly one milbon.

death, though murderers are con- j^i^

■lluli*ii, arp*«d sriflB. ud pnMBt ipiwirun of Piu— Dum^-Bipililtrf-^iBpuU* — Cm^SuU— SouMt U <lri<r— ChiHs M C»*Uari— Pslaiu dt- C>nllcri— CIuih dl Sua Fiwdiut— di 3a. Aiiti*-4i £*. Catxrinir-di ». Fioki lU' Orto— di S. Fiuhbv— CbnTeh bekuiiiiiE ta tLa Conwiralscb di S. Silveitcs— Chiaae di S, Mati»--di 9. Picriiio_di S. MichelB in Bargo — di 3. VLU— dtUa Spina— di \i. Andres ia Cbiniecu-' dlS.MartinD— Pilaiti-LanFruchl— TflDini— Unfrrdncd-Ciii-Mechfrini— Piliiio-S«u — Bofal Pataee— Ho^piuli. Sie,— Ucinnilr—Torre dells Spccols— BoUnic Girdci— Andtnt Vipont-Balb— SniipreBsed Chimli nf S, rrMce—Sabunntaa pan of S. Michel* (b Burfo— AiinadHct at CnldmUi— Moden Bilhs— MsinUin sf B. Oinliano— Modtn A^waict^^uat-Rd^ Farm— OkiTmetar of (ha PlHaa-HoMla— FDOBtiiiWalgi^ Ttadre— BrldfH— Smttla of tkt BridE*— llIamiBittH Ib bnnr of ». Rukri— CBniral — OUbibu.

Pisa, (anoiently Ptifw, a conBide- African corsairs, and a check upoij

rable Town of Etruria,) stands, on the ambition of Genoa ; and with

the banks of the Amo, forty-eight innumerable spoils, t^enfrom the

milea distant &om Florence, four- first-mentioned people, most of

taen from Leghorn, and six from the present building at Pisa were

the Mediterranean sea. Dionysius erected. This City is, next to

of Halicamassus affirms, that this Florence, the largest in Tuscany;

Town existed before the Trojan but though its walls arenearfive

war: Strabo supposes it to have miles in circumference, they do

been built by the Arcadians, soon not, at the present moment, con-

sfter that period; but, according tain above eifthteen thousand

to other autliorilies, it was founded persons. The Streets are wide,

by a Colonyof PisseaiiB, who were straight, and excellently paved;

ihipwrecked on the coast of Btru- the Bridges elegant; the Quay is

ria at their return from Troy- In one of the finest in Europe ; and

modem times it has been the ca- the situation of the Cathedral,

pifal of a great republic, whose Baptistery, Leaning Tower, and

conquering flfeet was a terror to Campo-Santo, renders these ma-

tha Saracen*, a aoourge to the jestio Edifices particularly sbiking

(») It U aaid lUt Bio lak Qrana-Doko of Twmj Bl.nig»tri (obi* of bit fstheA Lbwi

92 PISA^. tch,m

and beautiful. The Amo tra-. four lofty Columns ; sixty-two of verses tiie City in the form of a which are oriental granite ; and crescent; and divides it nearly the rest rare marble : and although into two equal parts. most of these Columns were ori- The DwomOy a Greco- Araba- ginally unequal in height, and Pisano structm-e, in the shape of consequently ill adapted to match* a Latin cross, built (as already yet so well has the architect dis- mentioned,) in the eleventh cen- posed of and added to them, that tury, under the guidance of Bus- even the most observing eye per- chetto, a Grecian, is remarkable ceives no want of symmetry, for the richness and variety of its Twelve Altars, designed by Mit marbles ; and, next to the cathe- chael Angelo and executed by drals of Milan and Siena, per- Stagio Stagi, adorn the walls of haps the finesj; Church of its kind this Edifice. Tlie High-altar is in Italy*." 'Hie eastern front is magnificently decorated with lapis ornamented with an immense num- lazuli p, verde antique, brocatello ber of Columns ; some of which di Spagna, bronze gilt, giallo di are .Gi:ecian marble, others ori-. Siena> ^c. .* the Tribuna contains entSJ Jranite, and one is porphyry; two porphyry Columns, with pecu- anion^" these the most strikmg are liarly elegant Capitals and Bases ; six magnificent ancient Columns that near the episcopal throne is which adorn the three celebrated embellished with the best works of Doors of bronze ; and are said to Stagi, and bears a bronze Angel be either Grecian or Egyptian greatly admired. The decorations >vorkmanship. - The Doors were of the opposite Column were exe- designed by Giovanni di Bologna, cuted by Foggini ; and the Group and cast by P. D. Portigiani ; that of angels on a golden field, which in tlie centre, the least beauti- adorns the great Arch, by Ghirlan- ful of the three, represents the dajo, the master of Michael Angelo. Xiife of the Madonna ; and is The Seats for the Canons (a sort surrounded by figures of Saints of Wooden Mosaic introduced into and Prophets, and embellished with Tuscany in the time of Brund- an elegant border of foliage, fruits, lesco,) merit notice. The four Pic- and flowers. Those on the right turesofS. Peter, S.John, S*. Mar- and left represent the Life of the gherita, and S». Caterina, are by Saviour, beginning with his birth, Andrea del Sarto ; and the Mosaic and ending with nis crucifixion ; on the Ceiling, representing the they are likewise embellished with Saviour, the Madonna, and S. a border, nearly similar to the one John, was executed by Gaddo already described. The Mosaics, Gaddi and other artists, in 1321. in the Arches above the Doors, On the right side of the great cross were done by FiUippo di Lorenzo is the Chapel of S. Ranieri ; whose Palidini. The Architrave of the Sarcophagus rests on a pedestal of eastern Door was taken from an red Egyptian granite, adorned with ancient edifice: and the Door other valuable marbles: the sar- which fronts the Campanile, is cophagus is of verde di Polcevera, esteemed for its antiquity ; though the Altar of giallo di Siena, and not remarkable for merit of any the Balustrades are of inlaid mar- other kind. The inside of the ble : the whole was executed by B. Church is adorned with seventy- G. Foggini, at the command, of

{fi) The Pisans consecrated their plander» of the eleventh century,

gained in an expedition against the baracens (p) Lapis lazuli is said to be the Cyanrnvm

of Palermo, in 1063, to the erection of this of the ancients ; and Great Tartarjr it snp-

^athedral; which was finished before the end posed to produce the best.

Ch. IV.J MSA. ^

€osimo III, in honour of S. Ra- Va^a and G. A. Soffliani--S. Ra-

nieri, who died in 1161, and was nieri putting on the Helinous Ha-

?roclaimed, by the Pisans, their bit, by Cav. B. Luti — ^the Death ^atron Saint. This Chapel con- of S. Ranieri, by Cav. G. Melani, tains a Mosaic, by Gaddo Giuldi, who flourished in the seventeenth representing the Madonna en- century — ^the three Maries at the throned and attended by Angels ; foot of the Cross, by G. Bilivert — and an antique Grecian, or Ro- the Adoration of the Serpent in man Statue, said to represent the wilderness, by O, Riminaldi — Mars, though now called S. Efeso. Habakkuk borne by an Angel, by On the left side of the great cross Bilivert — ^Judith giving the heaa is the Chapel of the Holy Sacra- of Holofemes to her Servant ; and xnent ; which contains a Ciborio of the Madonna, our Saviour and massy silver, and an altar adorned Saints, originally painted by Pas* with silver Bassi-riUevi ; both weU signano, and added to by Tempest! executed, after the designs of Foj^- ~^Grod the Father, Raphael, and gini : the Balustrades are of inlaid other Angels, by Salembini — and marble ; and here, likewise, is a the Institution of the Lord*s Sup- Mosaic, by Gaddo Gaddi, repre- per, by Tempesti. The bronze senting the Annunciation. At the Gryphon on the top of the Duomo bottom of the Church, over the is a curious antique Intaglio, sup- great entrance-doors, is a beau- posed to be Egyptian workman* tiful Bar, or gallery, ornamented ship.

with Bassi-rilievi, by Giovanni, The Baptistery , called a Ger*

the son of Niccolo Pisano ; and it man-Gothic Structure, erected (as

is much to be lamented that this has been already mentioned) by

fine work, which originally adorned Diotisalvi, in the twelfth century,

a pulpit, is now placed so high, is an octagon of white marble;

that its merits are scarce discern!- and its principal entrance displays

ble : it represents Scriptural His- two large and two small Columns,

tories. The centre-aisle contains a similar to those which adorn the

Pulpit of inlaid marble, supported great doors of the Duomo.

by two small Columns ; the one The inside of this Edifice resem*

porphyry, the other oriental bro- bles an ancient temple. Twelve

catello; and the first is parti- Arches, supported by eight vast

cularly curious, from consisting Columns of Sardinian granite, and

of various pieces so well joined four pilasters of white marble, serve

that it may l)e properly denomi- as the base to a second row of

nated Breccia porftrea : the se- Pilasters, on which rest the Cu-

cond is the finest specimen of pola. The Capitals of the pillars

its sort in Italy. The Pillar, on and pilasters, are antiqua The

the ri^ht, whicn supports the cu- Font, elevated on three steps of

pola, is ornamented with a Picture beautiful marble, is adorned with

by F. B. Gozzoli, who lived in the Intagli and Mosaics, so well exe-

fifteenth century ; it represents S. cuted, that they appear to hare

Thomas Aquinas disputing with an been done long before the buil^g,

assembly of Ecclesiastics ; and the On the margin are four places for

Pillar, on the left, is adorned with the immersion of infants ; and, in

a Picture of S. Agnes, by Andrea the centre, is a large basin for the

del Sarto I Among the Pictures immersion of adults : this practice

not already mentioned, those best of immersion, however, has been

worth notice are— the Madonna abandoned since the thirteenth cen-

and our Saviour surrounded with tury. The Pulpit, one of Niccolo

Saints, attributed to Pierino del Pisano's best works, is supported

n JISA. [Gh. IVi

Jby nitie Columns of ptedous mw- summit of thii Tower sure easy of

ble, and ornamented with Bcasi^ ascent; and the view from the

rilietn, formed out of oriental ala* eighth Gallery is very extensive,

baster and Parian marble. The The Campo-Santo, or ancient

first piece represents the Birth of Burial-Ground, the most beautiftil

Qur Savioinr — the second, the Ediiioe at Pisa, and unique in its

Adoration of the Magi— the third, kmd, is a vast Rectangle, sur-

the Presentation in 9ie Temple— rounded by sixty-two light and

the fornrth, the Crucifixion (much elegant Gothic Arcades of the

inferior to the rest)— the fifth, the Greco-Araba School : they are

Last Judgment. This Baptisteiy eomposed of white marble, and

was finished in 11&3; at which paved with the same matetial*

period Pisa is said to have been so Archbishop Ubaldo Lanfranei»

populous^ that a voluntary con- who was contemporary with Ri*

tribution of one florin, from every chard CcBur-de-lion, and his bro*

family, sufficed to pay for this no- ther warrior in the Hoty Land,

ble edifice \ brought to Pisa a large quantity of

The Campanile, or Leaning earth from Mount Calvaiy, and

Tower, begun by Guglielmo, a deposited it on the spot round

German, and Bonnano, Pisano, which the Arcades of the Campo«^

about the year 1174, is of a cir« Santo are now erected. He is,

cular form, nearly 190 feet in therefore, supposed to have given

height, and declining above 13 feet the first idea of this £<Mfice in

firom its perpendicular. Thisbeau« 1200; and the present structure,

tiful £difice consists 9f Eight dghteen years afterward, was eom-*

Stories, adorned with two hundred menced under the direction of 6io^

and seven Columns of granite and vanni Pisano, who finished it in

other marbles, many of which have 1283'. The firtatues over the prin-

evidently been taken from ancient cipal Door are by Giovanni K-

buildings. According to the opi- sano ; they stand in a kind of

nion of the most respectable wri- Temple, and, among them, is the

ters, it appears that this Tower Sculptor himself, kneeling to the

originally was straight ; though Madonna. The Sarcophagi under

some accidental cause, such as an the arcades are chiefly of Parian

earthquake, the great fire at Pisa, marble. Here is the Tomb of the

or the natural looseness of the soU, Countess Beatrice, who died in

has produced its present extraor- 1113, and was mother to the cele-

dinary inchnation: and in that brated Countess Matilda, the last

part of the Campo-Santo where descendant from the Counts of

the life of S. Ranieri is painted, Tuscany. On this Sarcophagus

we see this now leaning Tower per- is represented in boiso-rilievo, the

lectly upright, and consisting of Chase of Meleager, according to

Seven Stories only: .niay not, some opinions, and the Stoiy of

therefore, the Eighth Story, which "Rwedra and Hippolitus, accordingf

rather inclines on the contrary side to others : however, be this as it

to the others, have been added, in may, the merit of the work proves

latter times, as a balance, to pre- it an ancient production, ap«-

vent the whole Edifice from fall- plied, in latter ages, to its present

ing? The Stairsr leading up to the use; audit is supposed thatdiif

(jgf) Pisa, at the ]^eriod above-mentioned, flourishinf state, is said to hava amointeA ta

was supposed to contain 13,400 families ; and, 130,000 Residents. ^

Mokoning fire persons to each family, the nnm< (r) Some historians snpMs* the Gtaikf6»

ber of inhabitants will amoaat to 67,000^but Santo was eompleted, in, 1S81, darisff th« 

the population of this citj, during its most xeaith of the bhoit-UTed pzosperitj of tbi

?i9«n Reptiblie.

OILIVJ JPI8A. ^

Saroophagus was the modd from and damaged, 7^ /hit divmom

which Nioolo Pisano, and his son, of the northern Arcade contains used to study. Here, hkewise* is four Pictures, representing the an ancient vase, embelUshed with Creation, by Buffalmacco, who bani-rilieinf representing Baccha* flourished in the beginning of the nalian Mysteries, and which seems the fourteenth century. The other to have been one of the vessels paintings which adorn this Arcade employed by the Gx^ks and Ro» (those over the Doors of the Cha- mans in their religious ceremonies, pels excepted) r^resent the prin* Round the walls are Frescos of the cipal events of the Book of Gene* fourteenth and fifteenth century ; sis ; and were b^gun b}[ B. Goizoli, which, however deficient in many in 1484, and finished in the short respects, cannot but yield pleasure space of two years. The first of to those pmona who wish, on their these numerous Pictures contains entrance into Italy, to view the the famous Fergognoaa di Campo* works of the Revivers of an Art Santo ; and over the Chapel-door aftmnirds brought to exquisite per- is Uie Adoration of the Magi, by fection. In the first division of which work Goz2oli established hi4 the Arcade, on the western wall, reputation among the Pisans, and are six large Pictures, representing prevailed with them to employ him the Life of S. Ranieri ; the three in painting their Campo-Santo ; upper ones being by Simone Mem- not merely on account of the ge^ mi ; the three under ones, by An- neral ment of the picture, but be«  tonio, called Veneziano : and they cause it exhibited an excellent like- particularly merit notice, on ac- ness of his mistress, a Pisan ^1» count of the costume accurately whom he drew, to display his imi* preserved throughout them all, tative powers. Over the same and likewise because they show Door is the Annunciation, attri-* how ships were armed and rigged buted to Stefano Florentine ; and in the days of S. Ranieri. In one the fifth lower Picture from this, of these rictures is the Campanile : is particularly interesting, as it they all are supposed to have been contains several Portraits of illus- begun in 1300. The second divi* trieus Persons, and among them sion contains six Paintings, repre- that of Lorenzo de' Medici. Over senting the Life and Death of Saints the Door of the second Chapel is Efeso and Potito, done by Spi- the Coronation of the Madonna, nello Spinelli, Aretino, about the by Taddeo Bartoli; and in the year 1400. The third division fifth lower Picture, beyond this contains six Paintings, represent- Chapel, are portraits of other il- ing the history of Job, l^ Giotto ; lustnous Persons, among whom 80 injured, however, by the hand the Painter has placed himself of time, that it is difficult to dis- though his figure is almost totally tinguish them, although, in 1623, obliterated. These works, by Goi- they were retouched, by Marus* zoli, are, generally speaking, the celn. The other Paintings of this best preserved of any in the Campo* Arcade are said to have been done Santo. The Paintings of the east* by NeHi di Vanni, Pisano. The em Arcade, as far as the Chapel- two first Pictures in the second door, are by Zaccaria Rondinosi, Arcade represent the History of Pisano, and were executed in 1666; Esther, by Ghirlandajo ; retouched, they represent the history of King however, by Aurdio, or Baccio Ozia, and Balteshazzar*s Feast • Lomi. The second division of this Beyond the Chapel are three Paint- Arcade contains the History of ings, said to be by Buffalmacco, Judith; whiohis modem, iUrdone^ and representing the Crucifixion,

Hestirrectiott, And Ascension of Inscription, the one to the memory

the Saviour. The next Picture in of Lucius, and the other to that of

that part of the southern Arcade Caius Caesar, the adopted sons of

not ab^ady described, represents Augustus. Six hundred ancient

the Triumphs of Death, and was families of Pisa, besides many iUus*

done by Andrea Orcagna, who trious characters of different na-

flourished in the middle of the four- tions, are said to be interred in the

teenth centuiy : it contains several Oampo-Santo. portraits. The second large Pic- The solemn grandeur of this^

ture, by the same master, is the Burial-ground, prompted the Au-

Universal Judgment, in which So- thor of these Pages to compose

lomon is represented as dubious the following Sonnet to Grief;

whether he may go to Heaven or which is inserted here, because

Hell. The next Picture, or rather descriptive of the Campo-Santo:

B compartment of the last, repre- s„^„^„ nnmatch'd! which braves the Sents Dante s In/emo; and was lapse of Time!

Painted by Bernardo Orcagna, Fit cradle of the reviving Arts to rear!

brother to Andrea, and restored by Thy V^K VSi ^X" rti pK

Sollazino, who flourished about the Famed Campo-Santo ! where the might j

year 1530. The fourth Picture re- nfJil.^ « p«,;-« . w i

^ 1. xi_ TT* J. i» i.i_ A ^* ®^<*®' davs, in Fanan marble sleep,

presents the History of the An-^ Say, who isShe, that ever seems to keep

Chorites, by Laurati, the pupil of Watch o'er thy precincts ; save when mortal

Giotto : and over the Great Door inyades thfawfui stillness of the scene ?

is an Assumption, by Simone Then straggling to sappress the heavy

Memnii, one of the best preserved a«^k5ILv;«-»i.-v *^ a^ t v

Tk' J. jfA.^^ jf ^ i.i5 A ^^^ brnshing the big tear-drop from her

Picturesof the fourteenth century. eye, .

It is remarkable that, among the She veils her face— and glides yon tombs

immense number of countenances 'TisGBiKJ*i^by that thick veil the Maid i contained in these paintings, we know,

scarce find two alike. The faces, Moisten'd^ with tears which never cease to

generally speaking, are well done ; /

the figures and drapery stiff ; the The Chiesa de' Cavalieri, or

perspective is bad ; but the bor- Chuych of S. Stefano, firom whom

ders, which form the several com* the square in which it stands is

partments, are particularly elegant, named, was built by Yasari : the

Among'the Monummts is that of High- Altar, by Foggini, is of por-

Count Algarotti, erected by Frede- phyry ; so likewise is tiie Sarco-

ric the Great, of Prussia ; but re- phagus above it, reputed to con-

markable only for the beauty of tain the Relics of S. Stephen ; and

the marble : near this is the sar- the Bronze-chair, suspended over

cophagusofG.F.Vegio,byTaddo; the Sarcophagus^ was (presented

and, in the eastern ^cade, is the by Innocent XII to Cosimo III.

Monument of Filippo Decio ; who On the ceiling are six Paintings

had it erected in his life-time ; giv- relative to the Knights of S. Ste^^

ing, as a reason, ** That he feared fano ; the two first by Ligozzi,

posterity would not have done it the two next by Empoh, the fifth,

for him." This monument is by by Cigoli, and the last, which re-

Stagio Stagi. Under Orcagna's presents Cosimo I, receiving the

Picture of the Triumphs of Death Habit of the Order, is by Clmsto-

iBtands an ancient Roman Mile- fano Allori. On the WaUs and

stone, which was discovered on the Ceiling are Trophies taken from

•Via-£milia, near Rimazzano, and the Saracens, by the Knights of

thence transported to Pisa; and S. Stefano. This Church contains

<on each side of this Column is an a very curious Organ, reputed tQ

Ch. IV.} PISA; 97

b^ the finest in Europe; a Na- Aquinas surrounded by the Fa*

tivily, by Bronzino ; and a silver thers of the Church, among whom

Crucifix, by Algardi. • is a Portrait of Urban VI ; at the

The Palazzo de' Cavalieri, si- feet of these are several Philoso-

tuated in the same square, was phers and Heretics, with their

built by Vasari; and over the works torn in pieces; but what

principal Entrance are Busts of seems very incongruous, S. Tho-

six Grand Masters of the Order, mas himself is placed between

banning with Cosimo I, who in- Plato and Aristotle, who are pre-

stituted these Knights to defend senting him with their literaiy pro-

the Mediterranean against Turks ductions.

and Corsairs, by means of galleys. The Chiesa di 8. Paolo alt

on board of which ev^y Knight Orto contains a Head of our 8a-

was compelled to serve three years viour, which appears to have been

ere he could be finally received done in the twelfth century, into the Order : but, when peace The Chiesa di S. Jn^ancesco,

was established between Barbary supposed to have been built after

and the Tuscans, the Knights and the designs of Niccolo, Pisano,

their galleys became useless ; in- contains a Chapel dedicated to S.

somudi that the latter were, in Antonio da Padova, and painted

1755, all broken up and destroyed, by Salembini and Maruscelli — ai

Near the Palazzo de* Cavalieri, Chapel painted by Passignano ; there formerly stood a building, to£;ether with a Madonna and now totally demolished, which was Child, said to have been done in the called the Tower of Famine, from fourteenth century — another Cha- having been the prison of Ugo- pel (near the Sacristy) the Paint- lino '. > mgs in which are attributed to

The Chiesa di S, Frediano, Spinello, Aretino, who likewise did

which is supported by Columns of the large Picture over the Sa-

oriental granite with ancient Ca- cristy-door — a Picture, in the Sa-

pitals, contains a Painting of our cristy, by Giotto, of S. Francesco

Saviour on the Cross, done, in the receiving the Elect ; and, in the

thirteenth century, by Giunto, Pi- Sacristy-chapel, the Madonna and

sano. Saints, painted in 1395, by T. Bar-

The Chiesa di S, Anna con- toli. In the Cloister to the right

tains a curious representation of of the little steps which lead into

our Saviour on the Cross, wrought the Church, the bones of UgoHno,

in wood, on the Tabernacle of the his sons, and grand-children, are.

High-altar: and this wooden sculp^ according to tradition, deposited, ture, of which there are several The Church belonging to the

^ecimens in Pisa, is attributed to Conservatorio di S, Silvestro con-

G. Giaccobi, Pisano. tains two antique Paintings, by

The Chiesa di S" . Caterina con- Guidotti; and a small Basso-rt-

tains a curious Picture, by F. lievo, in terra-cotta, attributed to

Traini, one of the most skilful dis- Luca della Robbia. ciples of Andrea Orcagna : this The Chiesa di S, Matteo, built

Picture represents S. Thomas by the brothers Melani, is remark-

(0 Count UgolinOt a Pisan nobleman, fen- them food, and throwing: the key of their dun- tered into a conspiracy with Archbishop Ru- geon into the Arno, he left them, in thi» gieri, to depose the governor of Pisa; in dreadfnl situation, to be starved to death! which enterprise having succeeded, Ugolino See Dantk's* /»/<?rno. Canto XXXIII. assumed the government of the city ; but the Count Uurolino, however, seems to have de- Archbishop, jealous of his power, incited the served punishment: as his das^ai^t^^ *f* people against him; attacked his palace, treacherous flight lost the battle of Jweiona, seized his person, and cast him and his fa- and thereby destroyed the naval power or milv into prison; tiU, at length, refusing Pisa.

PISA. tCh. IV.

abl« fof the Prtgcos of those Art; two figures attributed t6 arti«t», which awj so skilfully ma- Moschitio ; and a half-length Ma- naged as to make the roof ap- donna, by Nino. pear wondoiVilly higher than it The Chiesa di 8, Andrea in really is. Chinstca contains a valuable

The CMesa di S. Pierino, sup* Monument of the Greco-Pisand

posed to hare been an ancient School, namely, our Saviour ott

heathen temple, contains a Ma- the Cros.s ; which appears to have

donna, pamted on the wall, and a been, done in the thirteenth cen-

Cmeiflx, by Oiunto, Pisano. The turr.

Ornaments on the outside of the The Chtesa di 8, Marttnd con-

Oreat Door a*e ancient and beau- tains a Crucifix, by Gtunto, H-

tiftil; the Pavement is cf piefra sano*.

dura; and the Edifice stands on The PalaxxO'Lattfrtmehij on

an anoient Bone-houde, which that side of the Amo called Parte

contains two Sarcoph^ of Parian di mezzo-giomo, was built after

marble, together with Paintings, in the design of Michael Angelo.

the style of those which adorn the Tfte Palazzo- Tonini contalne

Campo-Santo. two Paintings, in fresco, from Tas-

The Chiesa di 8, Mi<^le in so's Oeruscu^mme, begun by Me-

Bargo, said to have been built be- lani, and finished by Tommasi, hit

fbra the eleventh century^ by Qu- scholar.

glielmo, Pisano, is inerusted with The Palazzo- Lanft'educei, which

cerulean marble, supported by an- is inerusted with statuary marble,

oient Columns of GraniteUo, and has a Chain, and these Words

adonied with a marble Crucifix, over the door ; " Alia giomatoT

wrought by Niceolo, Rsano, and — many tales are told m conse-

originally placed in the Campo- quence ; but none of them seem

Santo. The Madonna, under tins sufficiently authenticated to be

Crucifix, is supposed to l>e one of worth relating. This Palace con-

the most aneient paintings in Pisa, tains a celebrated Picture, bv Gui-

The Cupola, the Upper Nave, the do, the subject of which is. Sacred

Vision of S. Homualdo, the Ex- and Profane Love, represented by

pedttion to Majorca and Minorca, two boys : perhaps the subject of

and the Institution of the Pound- this Picture may have been taken

ling Hospital, are all painted by from Plato, who says, there are

Ouidotti. two Cupids, as different as day

The Ckieea di 8. Fito, et more and night ; the one possessing

properly speaking, the CappeHa di ev«T vfftue, the other every vice.

9. Rameri, contains a Fresco re- Cfaea-Meclierini, on the oppo-

prcsenting the Death of the Saint, site side of the Amo, and catted

and executed, noft many years Parte di Tramontana, contains a

since, by Tempesti, in his best cdebrated Sibyl by Guercino ; with

manner. The surroumfing Archi- Frescos by Tempesti and C^offo.

tectural ornaments are hj Cioffo. 77ie Palazzo-Seta, in Via S.

The Chiesa delta Spina exhi- Ceeiliat contains FVescos by the

bits Monuments of the ancient brothers Melani; as do the Pd-

Pisan School of Sculiitore; namely, lazzo del Publico, and the PaUutto

the Madonna, our Saviour, S. de' Priori.

John and S. Peter, \>y Nino, Pi- In t?ie Royal Palace the ceiliiigs

sano, one of the Revivers of the are painted with ekgaaee ; aiMt

(0 .T*« S^^^^ •* '*«» e«"*«w seretBl tion of them ttar \n feoad !q MtfEBOVA'f

FamUBflft ¥jr ^ Jwen iMuten, vet men. Hitton of rim tioned u this Work ; and a minttte deseriiK

oh.irj

P18A;

the fbixittdre, tilongfa piaiii, !sr handsome.

The Hospitals are spacious: and the Loma def Banchi ana Casino Nobut are fine buildings.

The UmverHty of Pisa was fbunded in the year 1339, brthe Emperor Henry VII ; thpum, in con.^quence of civil wars. It be- came almost annihilated, tUl the reign of Cosimo I ; by whom it was re-established on the present plan, in 1543. It has produced as many, if not more, learned men than any public seminary in Italy ; and when the Pisans, during the twelfth century, on captming Amalfi, dis- covered there a copy of the Pan- dects of Justinian, they carried it home in triumph ; and thus pro- . cured their University the honour 6f reviving the study of the Ro- man Civil Law.

The Torre delta Specula, or 05- iervatory, was erected about the year 1735; and is furnished with good instruments.

The Boianic Garden was founded b^ Ferdinando, second son of Co- simo I.

There seems little doubt that Pisa was a Roman Colony, often visited by the Caesars ; and Nero, about the year 57, is said to have made an eiccursion to this City» with which he was so much pleased, that he embellished it with a mag- nificent palace and a temple de£- csuted to Diana, which stood at the entrance of the Lucca-gate. This temple was built in the form of a rotondo; all of marble without: the ceiling was an imitation of the starry firmament: the inter- nal decorations consisted of orien- tal marble columns, with various pieces of sculpture and painting ; the pavement was Egyptian mar- ble, and the statue of tne e^oddess stood in its centre. Whether the palace did, or did not enclose this temple is unknown; but the for- mer is described as being hignlv ornamented, an4 of a vast extent,

oofitaining baths, ^^ens, and fish-ponos; and it is added that Nero, in order to have it amply supplied with water, built the aque- duct of Monti-Pisani, which ex- tended from Caldacolli to the Lucca-gate. Such is the account given of Nero's temple and palace ; and it is certain that the buildings of the ffypocaustufH extended from the Duomo to the vidnity of the Monastery of S. Zenone. It is equally certain that foundations of immense buildings have been dis* covered in the gardens which now occupy the space between the Church of S. Zenone and the Duo- mo ; that numberless pieces of marble are seen in the walls and buildings, which at present stand upon the above-named space ; and two ruins near the Lucca-gate, one of which has been recently demo«  lished, were evidently parts of the Hypocaustum : these circumstances concur with several others to esta- blish the truth of what has been advanced. The most interesting remains of these antiauities is the Vapour-Bath, situated in a Garden dose to the Luoca-gate : this Bath is an octagon, with four semi-cir- cular niches ; in the upper part of which are terra^cotia tubes of a triangular shape. Opposite to the entrance there appears to have been a place reserved for some marble ornament. The roof forms a semi- circle, and contains eight places to admit light, besides an octagon aperture m the centre. The pave- ment, leactine to the great funiace^ was made of calcistruzzQ, Vnih g surface of marble one finger thick, to walk or lie down upon. It is probable that, under this marble pavement,there were vaulted rooms, where the attendants kept up per- petual fires : and some persons unagine that under eveiy niche were vases filled with water, which, on being heated by the fires, impreg- nated the apartments with vapour. Ancient baths usually consisted of

S 2

^00 PISA. [Ch.IV.

four apartments, ^stinguished by besques, resembling those which

the appellations of cold, tepid, hot, adorn Livia's Baths at Rome, and

and sudatory ; and the apartment not unlike, in style, to many of the

called tepid, in the mens' bath, painting found in Herculaneum,

usually communicated with the This building could not have been

same apartment in the womens' a Christian church, because the

• bath : and there is no doubt that primitive Christians adorned their

the Bath above described consisted churches with nothing but quota-

of four apartments, as traces of tions from Holy Writ ; therefore it

them may still be discovered. From must, in all jjrobability, have been

the appearance of the Bath now erected previous to the time of

remaimng, it seems to have been Constantine.

lined throughout with marble ; and The Aquediict of CcUdacolli, so

the six Grecian columns on the called from the hot springs which

sides of the bronze doors of the supply ?it, is supposed to be that

puomo, together with the other erected by Nero : ei^ht Arches may

two, winch ornament the principal still be seen at the distance of about

door of the Baptistery, are sup- two hundred yards from the Mo-

Eosed to have been taken from this dem Baths of Pisa ; and ruins of uilding. In the Garden adjoining the whole are discoverable between, to the Bath, stood the Monastery ' this spot and the Lucca-gate, of S. Zenone, commonly called S. No vestiges remain of the an- Zeno ; of which, however, the cient Port of Pisa, mentioned by Church only remains ; and in it are Strabo : but it is supposed to have Sarcophagi, which, though muti- been near the mouth of the Amo,. lated and almost defaced, still pos- and not far from Leghorn. We sess sufficient beauty to make us are told that this port was protect- execrate the hand of avarice, or ed neither by mole nor pier ; and barbarism, which has thus de- though open to every wind, yet ves- stroyed these valuable remains of sels rode securely on its bosom, Grecian sculpture. owing to the size and tenacity of A house, belonging to the noble the weeds, which were so closely family Da Paulle, seems to have interwoven as to exclude the agita- been formed out of the ruins of an tion of the sea. ancient theatre ; judging from the The Modem Baths, situated granite columns of ditferent orders about three miles and a half to the discoverable in the walls. north of Pisa, are elegant, com- In the suppressed Church of S. modious, and siurounded by seve- Felice are two Columns of oriental ral good Lodging-houses. These granite, with Capitals ornamented Baths, the most celebrated in Italy, by mythological figures, supposed have ttie reputation of being parti- te represent Jupiter, Harpocrates, cularly beneficial in gouty cases, Diana, Minerva, Isis, Ceres, and and diseases of the liver. Genii. They probably belonged to The discovery of two large frag- a Roman temple, on the site of ments of Columns, with two Ca- which the church of S. FeUce is pitals, which bear marks of remote said to have been erected. The antiquity, together with several, sculpture seems to be of Septimius other concurring circumstances, Severus's time. seem to indicate that these modem The Subterranean Part of S, Baths occupy the same ground Michele in Borgo deserves notice ; witli those mentioned by Strabo the Pillars and Walls are of pietra and Pliny.

verrucana ; the Roof is tuto, and Tlie Mountain of S. Giuliano,

curiously ornamented with Ara- which rises immedmtely above the.

Ch. IVJ

PISA.

101

Baths, contains some curious Ca- verns.

The Modem Aqueduct, begun by Ferdinando I, and finished by his son, Cosimo II, is a magnificent work, worthy the Princes of the House of Medicis: it commences at a village called Asciano, and extends to Pisa, a distance of four miles, conveying to that City the most pure and delicious water in Europe.

Jnie Canal, which extends from Pisa to Leghorn, was made by Ferdinando 1.

Tlie Royal Farm, or Cascina, near Pisa, situated in an extensive and beautiful forest of cork-trees, ever-green oaks, ^c, and washed by the sea, is worthy notice ; as it contains Camels, who, though fo- reigners, breed here, and are em- ployed as beasts of burden : they are, however, much less numerous at present than they were twenty years ago. The Grand Duke, Leo- poldo, was the first person who attempted to breed camels in Italy.

The nobility of Pisa, and all the gentlemen belonging to the Univer- sity, are remarkably civil and kind to foreigners ; the lower classes of people respectful and humane, but exacting.

The two principal Hotels in this City are, Le tre Donzelle, and L" t/ssero, the former of which has the advantage in point of situation, but the latter is the better Inn, though by no means so comfort- able as private lodgings on that side of tne quay callea Parte di mezzo'giomo, for, on the opposite side, and in many of the streets and squares, the houses are damp, and consequently unwholesome.

Travellers should be especially careful to send for the Fountain- Water of Pisa that flows tlirough the Aqueduct ; because the well-

(«) When a man stands candidate for the honoar of being a combatant, Jie is cased in armour, and then beat for half an honr with

water, with which the houses are supplied, is seldom fit either foe driiudng or even for kitchen use.

The Theatre here is capacious* but not elegant.

The three Bridges, as already mentioned, are handsome, espe- cially the middle one, which is com- posed of marble and pietra verrU" carta; and the mock fight, occa- sionally exhibited on this brid^, is perhaps almost the only remaming vestige of those martial games heretofore so famous among the Greeks and Romans. The amuse- ment consists in a battle fought by 960 combatants, who, clothed in coats of mail, and armed with wooden clubs, dispute, for forty- five minutes, the passage of the bridge. The strongest combatants

Sossess themselves of the field of attle, and when it is possible to employ stratagem they never let slip tne opportunity, but to fight in earnest is forbidden : neverthe- less this mock encounter frequently costs lives, and is, therefore, but seldom permitted, though one of the most beautifiil exhibitions in Italy. Some authors tell us that it was instituted by Pelops, son of Tantalus, King of Phrygia; others think it was established by Nero ; while others believe it to have been originally celebrated in memoiy of the defeat of Musetto, King of Sardinia, which hap];>ened in the year 1 005, upon a bridge at Pisa : out whoever the institutor might be, the amusement is entered into, by the Pisans, with a degree of spirit exceeding all description \

There is likewise, every third year, on the 17th of June, a sin- gular and most beautiful illumina- tion here, in honour of S. Rani- eri. On this night the whole Lung'-Amo appears like an im- mense crescent of magnificent and regularly built palaces, studded

wooden clubs; during which ceremony, should he happen to flinch, or cry out, he is rejected ; but if he do ncttber, he is chosen.

102 NEW ROAD TO GENOA. [Ch,V.

with mmombh qnantitias of dia- tatprs are view^ ai once,, whether monda; iome jii the Tuscan, othess in balconies, carriages, on foot, or in the Crothic, and others m the in boati upon the river: and the. grot^aque or Chinese style of ar- aame cimse renders the Carnival chitecture (which participates »o at Pisa paHioularJy beautifnl ; for, mwih of th^ JBgyptian, that many during tne laat we^ of this whim- persons Misve the Chinese were sical diversion^ the whole quay is <Kiginally m Sgyptiao colony^.) €lled with masks, from tlu-ee in A<3 to Oiis» ^ wee bridges, qr^ the aftamoon till the commenc&- 4MU9ient9d ^y imavk^ blazing with ment of Hm pastimes at the thea>> jewels; and such is the scene tre.

Vflsaeh Pisa presets to vjew at this The Cameia, or Carnival, ap^-

ffeneral illumination : — no wonder, ^ars to have been a festivity ob-

tiiereforet that Aiiosto is said to served in mo^t of the Grecian cit-

have borrowed images from so ties, but especially at Sparta, whene

apli^idid and singular an §xhibi^ ii took birth about 673 years be-

^on, which can only be hkened to fore the Christian »*a, in honour

an enchanted city. of Apollo, sumamed Carneu9, It

The immense }en^ and beau- }asted nine days,

tifiil em>ve of the Pjsa-quay con^ The climate of Pisa, during win-*

tnhute greatly to the splendour ter, is one pf th^ best in Europe,

<^ these acenes, the ground be« though at other seasons not eqoaJljr

ing so shaped that aO the speo* salubrious.

CUAVTEK V.

QENOA, NICE, TURIN, LEGHOKN, LUCCA, ^c.

Ezcanion from Pisa to Genoa, hj the N^w Road— Massa — Carrara — Harbour, Fanale. and Fortilcations of Genoa — Cathedral, and other Churches — Palazzo Ducale, and other Pa- laces — University— Albergo dei Poveri, and t)ther Hospitals — School for the Deaf and ]>nmb— <?omenratono Fiaschi — ^Theatres — Aqueduets— Hotels — ^Populatioo — Provisicms — C^iaukte-^Physiaian — Cliaracttr of the GeaoMe—MABoliurtates— Price of Provisions — Himse^nBt— New ^ond between Osi^oa and THfia — View a^aad from Genoa to Nice — De- Mri{>fion «f Nice, and its Clinate-^oumey over the Maritime Alps to Turin — Populatinn of tj^at CiC7-<-Bri(]ge erected by the French— ^yal Pal&oe- Cathedral, and other Churches — Theatre — University — ^Public Garden and Ramparts — Hotels — Climate — Water —Environs — Alessandria — Plain of Marengo — New Road to Genoa — ^Leghorn— Harbour, jLight-house, Fortifications, and other objects best worth notiee in the Town and its £nvi- jrons — inns — Lucca — PopviUtion — Royal Palace— Cathedri^ — Other Churches — ^Ancient Ampbitkeatns — ^Modern Theatre — Character of tbe Lueefaetd— Seminary fooaded by tke Prinonss £lisn— Inn— M»rUa— Bagni di Laeea— Environs of the Bn^irr^Peasantryr-f Mode of onltivaling Ais part of the ApM^nine^ViUius betwnen tbe B«ths of Lucca and tk^ ^ty-T^lond tkrongli Pisteja to FJorenfi*.

T^E road from Pisa to Genoa has but no further : and, at other sea- always been passable for carriages, sons, Travellers have frequently during summer, as far as Lerici, been compelled to embark at Via-

(v) The belief that the Chinese were origin- taining drawings of nearly a thousand antique

ally an Egyptian cofamy, has lately been Vases, retwmblu^ Uunm caUwl Etrnsean, oat

•teengtbeaAd by m diacovenr, in the Cabinet tf Egyptian eiiga. of Medals at Mitan* «f ft CinjMM work, con-

Ch. VO MASSA-^ARRARA-^AIIZANA, 103

lUggio, a fonall S««port oelebraled Cajrara; whose ^uarriet poduoe ^ for excellfist fish; going thence, Majrt)le, for the purpoges of Sculp- either in a deok-vefsel, or a feluc- ture, neariy equal in excellence ca*, to Genoa; between which with that of Mount F^ntelicuf: City and Pisa there was no Post- though from want of proper care road till the year 1824, when a in tramportinf the blocks, they magnificent Bioa4 (oommenoed by are frequently split and ^okea. the late Govemora of Genoa, and Carrara is built of marble taJcen <K>ntinued by the present Sore- from the acyt^^ent Quarries; which reign) was opened between the are worth seeing ; and where fine Cities of Genoa and Lucca. It Crystals are often foiuuL It owes traverses a hig^ elevated part of much to its late Sovereign, the the Apennine, commands sublime Princess EUse ; who converted her and exquisitely beautiful scenerv ; Palace, here, into an Academy of and if a few more parapet walls Sculpture, richly stored with mo- were erected on Ui«i prinks of the dels, both ancient and modera. precipices, and one or two more The road between Massa and Car- bridges thrown over the beds of rara, though hilly, is good; and torrents, this Road would almoft from Carrara to Lavenza. better vie in excellence with those of than the present Post-road, and Cenis and the Simplon. not much longer ; consequently.

The ^stance from I^sa to G^ persons who travel m witurier Doa by the New Route is computed often prefer going through Car- to be an hundred and twenty £ng^ rara j the Post-road between Massa bsh miles : and persons who travel and tavenza being, to seven miles, m poiturier are usually three dajrs narrow, rough, swampy, and dur- and a half in accomplishing this ing winter aometimea dangerous*. joum^^ The pleasantest way of fn>m the Port of Lavema* an*- going is by the road which leads ciently Aventia^ the Canrara mar- to the Baths of Pisa< ble is now convened to every part

Persons who travel fft ooi'lMrt^, of Europe: but, in former ages, it

afler crossing the Serohio (anciently was embarked at the Portu$ Lw$m,

the An9(9r) on a handsome bridge, and thence called Luna marble,

otteu stop to sleep at the Postr Sarzana*, the ancient Luna^ and

house just beyond Pietra Santa: the next post to Lavensa, is a

but, as there is a pestiferoua Marsh handsome Town, seated near the

in tha^ neighbourhood. Travellers bed of a torrent, which requires a

fbould sleep at the next Post,Maasa, brid^ when ^woln by the melting

on account of the salubrity of its of winter snow. Generally speaks

air, end the beauty of its situation, ing, however^ this torrent does not

Massa is situatsa in a pl^Mant impede TraveUenu Considerable

valley near the sea; and, though vestiges of the ancient Luna may

smMl, contains a handsome Royal be traced in and near Sarzana ;

Reaicience, and a comfortable Ho*- beyond whieh Town the Road

tel y. Five miles distant from this crosses the Magra, a fordable

Town (but not in the high road river during summer ; but passed,

through Lavenza to (jrenoa) is at other seasons, in a pon^ pliant ;

(w) A F«lucoft is 9M opcm Wat, whkh m«kw «a1«9e fte paswiifpr be provided with dinaeir,

VM 9»A of sails and q^w i always keeeiDg ia whioh ease the prie^ ts sis seepkiai.

near the shore ; and, in case of bad weauier, (y^ The Quadrt Naxioni.

raaaiBg iafo harbour. (s) It is in oootemplatioa to make a Poet-

(jv) aiiagle men, tvavrilieir fram Pisa to mad from Massa through Carrara te I*-

Genoa, would do well to hire oae of tke Pisa veaya.

Calesbini, whiek aceompltsk the journey in (a) Inn, The Albergo deffa L*ni^ta»a, and

two days and a half ; and may be kirM lev foM. tea scudi to tke master, and two to tke drirer;

104

PASSAGE OF THE BRACCO, &c.

[Ch. V.

and where, again, a bridge would very rapid ; and Mattarana con- be a great .convenience •*. Hence tains a small Inn, where Travellers the Road ascends, through a luxu- might stop, if needful. Beyond riant country,to an eminence which this Hamlet the Road ascends exhibits the grand and beautiful gradually, for about three miles Gulph of Spezia, presenting itself and a half, at the brink of a tre- between hiUs clothed to their sum- mendous precipice ; and is hewn mits with the richest verdure, in rocks of slate, yeUow, green, and From this eminence the descent to white marble, and beautiful grey the sea is gradual; and the ap- granite. It then descends for proach, through an avenue of ac- about eiglit miles ; and, on ad- cacias, to the little Town of La vancing toward Sestri', presents SpeziaS is enchanting. The Gulph, the Traveller with a lovely view of a peculiarly safe and capacious that Town, backed by the sea, and Harbour, was the ancient Partus displaying hedges of aloes in every Lunte ahready mentioned. From direction. Hence the Road passes La Spezia me- road ascends a through a rich but narrow valley, mountain which commands a fine watered by the Fumera, to Chia- view of the Gulph ; and then de- vari, a handsome Town, where scends to the bed of the Magra ; commences the ascent to another through which it passes: but a branch of the Apennine. This Pas- new Gallery is making, near Bor- sage, which, like that of the Brac- ghetto, to avoid the bed of this co, requires parapet walls, is hewn river. At Borghetto * begins the in the sides of marble rocks at the Passage of the Bracco, (one of the brink of a precipice overhanging loftiest simimits of the Apennine,) the sea, and crowned by mountains over which carriages are conveyed covered to' their summits with by means of Galleries hewn in the olive-gardens, vineyards, cypresses, sides of marble rocks. These Gal- maritmie stone pines, ^c. intersect- leries are narrower than those of ed by villages and villas. The the Simplon : which is much to be Galleries of uiis Road contain three lamented ; because they lie at the grottoes ; the two first of which brink of fearful precipices, and are, are near together, and cut through at the present moment, 1827, not a solid rod^ of splendid marble; sufficiently protected by parapet but lined with masonry, which walls : therefore, if a horse were spoils their effect : the third, about to start, or be unruly, serious mis- fifteen Roman miles from Genoa, chief might ensue. Moreover, this is likewise cut through solid rocks Passage is not screened from sud- of marble ; and exhibits, at its

den blasts of wind; and would, therefore, be dangerous in stormy weattier. Fi-om Borghetto to Mat- tarana (a distance of seven miles)

termination (as it were through a show-glass) the whole line of coast to Genoa, with that magnificent City itself; forming, altogether.

the ascent is continual, but not the most singular and lovely view

(V) At Lerici, f fonneriy Ericis Partus^ in this neifchbourhooa, persons who do not like to proceed by land, may embark in a Felucca for Genoa. The distance, by sea, from Lerici to Genoa, is abont twenty leagues ; the price commonly given for a Felucca, from five to six se^uios; and the time usually employed in ^ing, from twelve to . fifteen hours : though, if there be no wind, or if the wind be contrary, Travellers are compelled to land, for the night, at Portoiino ; a pretty* but comfortless little fishing-town.

(c) This little Town contains three Inns, The Hotel cPEurope^ which is very clean and comfortable ; The Hotel de Londres, which is very tolerable ; and The Hotel de rUniverSf remarkably dirty with a bad lar- der.

((2) The Hotel de LondreSj at Borghetto, is a tolerable Inn ; .The Hotel d'Jiurope a very bad one.

(e) A good Inn here, VHotel de la hellt Europe.

Oh. v.] GENOA. • 105

imi^nable. This Grotto serves Csesarea, when that town was

as an entrance to the Village of captured by Guglielmo Embriaco,

Routa; whence the road descends in 1101 ; and chosen by the G«no-

sradually to Grenoa ; being at the vesi, in preference to other spoils,

latter part bordered on each side This Vase is supposed to nave

with olive-plantations, vineyards, been presented by the Queen of

gardens, and villas. Seba to Solomon, and deposited,

Grenoa, in Italian, Genova, called by him, in the Temple at Jerusa- La Superbay anciently a City of lem. The mortal remains of S. Liguria, and the first which fell John Baptist were, according to under the Roman voke, appears to tradition, brought from Lycia, and most advantage when viewed from placed by the Genovesi in their the sea, about one mile distant from Cathedral: and the Chapel con- the shore : for, then, its numerous taining an iron Urn, reputed to en- and stately edifices resemble the close the relics of the Saint, is, in seats of a vast amphitheatre, placed form, a rotondo, incrusted with on the declivity of the Apennine. BasH'rilievi, and adorned with a The Harbour of Grenoa is capaci- Statue of the blessed Virein, and ous, but not safe ; being too much another of S. John, both by Con- exposed to the LibeciOy or south- tucci. Four Columns of porphyry, west wind. The Female^ or light- with Pedestals exhibiting Bo^m- House, is a lofty Tower, built on rilievi of Prophets, by Giacomo an isolated rock, at the west side deUa Porta, support the Canopy of the Harbour. The Fortifica- of the Altar, tions, toward the sea, appear The Church of 8, Ciro, pecu- strong, being cut out of the rocks ; liarly enriched with marbles, is a but the naval power of this conn- spacious Edifice, which existed in try, once so formidable, seems now the year 250 ; and was, from that reduced to a few galleys, chiefly period till the year 985, the Cathe- employed in fetching com from oral of Genoa. The High-altar is Sicily. Genoa is defended by two adorned with sculpture, by Puget : Walls ; one of which immediately one of the Chapels contains a good encompasses the town ; whilst the Picture of the Assumption, by o^er takes in the rising grounds Sarzana ; and in another Chapel, commanding it. The streets, a under the organ, is a good picture, very few excepted, are not wide by Pomarancio, of the Adoration enough to admit the use of car- of the Shepherds, riages. The roofs of the houses The AnnunzicUa, though built are flat, and frequently decorated at the sole expense of the Lome- with orange-trees. Here is a fine lini family, is one of the most stone Bridge over the Bonzevera, costly Churches in Genoa. It con- and another over the Bisagno ; the tains two celebrated Pictures, the former stream washing the western. Last Supper, by Procaccino, and the latter the eastern, side of the the Crucifixion, by Scotto. City. S, Ambrogio, which owes much

The Cathedral, dedicated to S. of its splendour to the Pallavicini

Lorenzo, is an ancient Gothic family, is enriched with three cek-

structure, incrusted and paved with brated Pictures ; the Circumcision,

marble ; and adorned with a pic- by Rubens — S. Ignatius exorcising

tureofthe Crucifixion, by Baroccio, a Demoniac and raising the Dead,

and Statues of S. Stefano, S. Am- by the same Master — and the As-

brogio, and the four Evangelists, sumption, by Guido !

by Francavilla. The Sacristy con- Santa Maria in Carignan(^ built

tains an Emerald Vase, found at in obedience to the wiU of Bendi-

m GENOA- [Ch.V.

pelli SauU, a nobl« G^ooege, i» an Fa^ repr^senta the Awansionl

elegaxit piece of architecture ; and Thu Church likewise contains a

the magfni^cent Bridice, leadiog^tp Picture of the Annunciation, bf

it, was erected hy his son. The Cambiaso-<~Ghrist washing the feet

Church contains a Statue of S. of his Disciples, by Pa^*^Christ

Sebastiano, by Puget !-^another of sinking under the weight of hip

^e beatifiea Alessandro Sauli, Cross, by Paggi-^^-and the Madonna

likewise by Puget-^an interesting fnod Saints, 1^ CasteUo,

Picture of S» Peter and S. John The MadwmHkk is a fmaU

curing the Paralytic, by DomenicQ Church* enibellishad with severid

Piola i-^the MarWdom of a Saint, IHctures : among which are Christ

by Carlo Milratta^— the blessed vvith 8. James and S. Philip, by

Virgin, the Saviour, and Saints, by Pag^;i— the Annunciation, by Ga**

Girolamo Piola<-«and S.Francesco, leotti-— the Salutation, by Tinto«>

by Gueroino. The Organ is a very retto^--the Madonna, by Carlo

$ne one ; and the view from the Dolci— the Nativi^ by Ratti-^^^nd

Cupola well worth seeing. the Assumption oi the Virgin, eJt*

S' Ste/ano aUe Porte contains a tributed to Raphael* The two iaat

celel^ated Picture, which was are in the Sacristy,

taken to Paris during the time of The Palazzo JOueaie, ^here th« 

Napoleon ; but is now brought Doges once resided, is a large mo«-

back, and replaced in its original si- dem Building, erected in conse*-

tuation over the High-altar of this quence of a fire, which consumed

Church. The Picture represent^ uie ancient edifice. The gre^t

the Martyrdom of S. Steptien : the Council Chfrnheft magnificent in

upper part was painted by Raphael, point of size, and ornamented by

the lower part by Giulio Romano ; Columns and Pilasters of Broca*

and, when at Paris, the whole wa9 tello, (which support a Gfdlery,

retouched by David \ I • occupied on pubhc occasions by

iSi. Maiteo^ built by the Doria fa- Spectators and Bands of Music,)

mUy, contains Ste4;ues of Uie Evan- once contained statues, in marble,

gelists, ^. by Montorsoli; and 'of persons eminent for their pub-

here, in a Subterranean Chapel, lie services; but revolutionary

rest the remains of Andrea d'Oria. frensy destroyed these statues {

Santa Maria del Ca^tello con-r and th^ are now replaced by

tains two old Pictures, painted on others, theheads of which are plas^*

wood gilt, by Luigi Brear-the Mar ter, and the drapery linen stuffed

donna, S. Catherine, and the Mag-. wiUi straw. Here, likewise, .are

dalene, by Castiglione*T^ Frescos, by two Paintings, copied from two

Carlone — and, in the Sacrist^r, a celebrated works by SoUmene,

picture of S. Sebastiano, by Titian, which were eonsumed with the an*

8. Filippo Neri is a handsome cient edifice : one represents the

Church, the Ceiling of which was Consecration of the Remains of S*

painted by Legnani and Frances-* Johu ; the other the Ijanding of

fluni ; and in the adjoining Oratory Columbus in America : and above

Is a Statue of the Madonna, by the door of the Senatorial Cham-

Puget. ber is the Prow of an ancient Car-

S. Francesco di Paolo contains thagenian Galley ; its length being

two celebrated Pictures, both* of about three spans, and its greatest

which adorned the Paris Gallery thickness about two-thirds of a

during the time of Napoleon. One foot : it was discovered near the

of these Pictures, by Cambiaso, beach in 1597, in consequence of

represents the Adoration of the the Harbour being cleaned ; audit

St^pberds I aad the otb^» by suppee^ to have remained tbinu

Qh V.l

GENOA.

W

fromthetim^of anavalbftttleber PaJotingf mi gUt Omamfint* Qf

tween 1h« Gr^oese and the Cartha- thu apflrtraent fure bv Doaifnif)^

geniaQ eommaadfr, Mago '* PafodL At U10 end of tha Gallery

The Pahst^o del 8ig, MareeiiQ ate two Salotme; one being paini'

Durazzo, (now the Koyoji Re»f ed in freiOQ by Ca«tello ; and tha

dence«)contain9nobteapartnient3 other by Colonna and MitellL

£fplendidly funiished, am a large Here likewise it a celebrated Buat

coUeqtton of Fictures, }n the of Villus!! On returning baak

greai Hall, is a Pfunting by Bertor Hurough the Gallery, Strangers are

lotto, whioh vepreeentis the Au<- conducted into a Saloon, the Ceil« 

dieace given by fiie Grand Signior ing of which waa painted by Do*

to the Genoese A«ba9fador»Agoe<» menico Farodi; and thence into

tine Duraaso*-another, by Pome- another Room^ painted in fireseo

nieo Piola, representing a FSte by Boni. The Saloon of Time is

given by the GriMid Sig^uHr to the adorned with a Ceiling by Psrods*

same An^assadoiv^a PcH*trait of and the following Easel Pictures:

the Anibassador, by Carlone-*-twp — a half-length figure of S. Cathe*

Portraits of Doges, by Sarzana— - rine of Sweden, by Carlo Dolei-r*-

another Doge, of the burejeso fe^ the ceremony of Confirmation in

mily, by Domenico Parodi — and a presence of a Freneh Monarch, by

small Cfhapel painted in fresco, by Albert Durer — Portrait of Anna

the same Artist ; who has likewise Bullen, by John Holbein the

embellished it with Sculpture. The younger— a Head, by Tintoretto-^*-

Saloon qf Giordano contains — Phi- a Hc^, by Titian f — two Pictures

neus turned into stone by Perseus ! by Borgognone-^two Pictures, by

— ^and Ohndo and8o|^onia saved Jacopo Bassano, namely, the De^

from deaft, hv Clonnda ! These luge, and Jacob's Journey — a Boy

Pictures are oy Griordano. Mary lighting a Firebrand, by. Leaadro

waidiing the Saviour's feet, Ysy Bassano— ^a Head, lwTinteretto-*<

Paris Bordone-x-^he Madonna and Ha^ar with her Child and the

Jnfiuit Jesus, by Cappuecino^— An^el, by Domenico Parodi — S.

Portrait of a Nobleman in a Catherine of Genoa, bv the same

Spanish dress, by Vandyck — ^Adam mastsr-i— six Pictures, by Castig-

and £ve banished fixrni Paradise, lione ; that representing a Satyr

by Procaccinor— the Madonna and and a Bacchante being the best

In&nt Jesus, by Vandyck — and a — ^and two Children in the same

faalfrlength figure of a Prelate, by Picture, by Domenico Piola. The

Cappuccino. The Saloon of Paoto Chamber of Aurora, who, with

nontains the ehef-d' enivre oi Fmolo Cephalus, is painted on the Ceil-

Veronese, the Blagdalene at oar ing, by Boni, contains, — Peter

Saviour's feet in the house of the denying Christ — axid another Pie« 

Pharisee!!! The Oallerif eonUinsi ture of a dead Christ, by Cara-

severalpiecesof Sculpture; among vaggio^-^o half-lengUi Female

which are a Group of a Sat3rr and Fibres, that in a Spanish dress

a Nymph, supposed to be Gredan bemg by Vandyck, the other, hold*

woHcmanshipry-and four modem ing a small mstrument, by the

Statues, 1^ Filippo Parodi. The Cav. del Cairo--a Head of the

(/) Vfartbc Cvstom-Sosse, is » BuldUis Apprajpriated to ^e Tribaiu»l of Commerce, U attother pref;loas Monument of Antiquity, a Broase Table, foaa4 accidentally in I'oLoe* Tera, ky » peasant, when he wae trenching the earth, A. 1>. 15u6. The Inscription on this Table is well preserved i Mid ftppean to havie

been vrittea about the year S3S, aftn the fooodation of B<oiiie.

(^g) The King of Sardinia, on becoming Sovereign of Oe&oa, pnrckaMd this P^tiace; aod ha» also reeei|tly pttrchased the Palace of the Duchess d'Oria'^ruriis, Csitrada- Nuova.) ia potat of ai»hiteotujre a.»pl«idid ediUce;

no aiMOA. [<5h.v.

Cato fallings on fais swoitl, hv IBorione. The Gallerjr of Oomtim-* Guercino f — the TncreduKty of 8. nication between the Apartments, Thomas, by Cappuccino— the Holy is ornamented with a Painting of the Fami)y, by Pj-ocaccino— the An- Temple of Diana, by Viviani, and ttunciation, painted on copper, bt Figures by Paolo Gvolamo, and Lodorico Caracci !— a half-length Domenico Piola. The fifth Saloon, Figure with a Beard, painted on ealied Human Life, contains-^fonr wood, by Lucas de Leydenf— S.. half-length Figures, each repm- Paul, by Capnuccino — ^the Nati- senting an Apostle, by Procaccfna tity, by Paolo Veronese— 4;he Sa- ^— S. John Baptist, by Cs^uccina viour bearing his Cross, by Lan- —Portrait, supposed to represent franco — and Circe and tflysses, Vandyck's Nurse, by Paolo Vero- by Scorza. The Autumn Saloon iiese — ^the Assumption of the Ma- contains— the Madonna enthroned, donna, painted on copper, by Cor- with the Infknt Jesus, S. John regfido!! — Portrait of a Lady of Baptist, and other Saints, by Goer- the Brignole family and herDaugh- cino !— the Adoration of the Magi, ter, by Vandyck — Christ in the byPalmaVecchio — ^Abraham jour- Garden of Olives, painted on cop- neying with his Family and Ani- per, by Carlo Dofci ! — the Car of mals, by Castiglione — Dsedalus Love, byAlbano! — Christ appear- and Icarus, by Andrea Sacchi — ingto me Magdalene after nis re- 8. Francesco, Dy Cappuccino— the surrection, by Albano — ^the Deity Holy Family, painted on wood, in and the Infiant Jesus, by Guercino the style of Andrea del Sarto— — and Jesus and S. Veronica, by Portrait of a young Man, by Titian Antonio Caracci! The Chamber -—Portrait of a Cardinal, by Scipio qfthe Virtues of the Country con- Gaetano — S. Mark, hall'-length, tains the foUovnng Pictures by by Guido! — S. Peter weepii^, by Beferrarir — Numa ordaining Sacri- Lanfranco — and Vulcan's ra-ge, fices — Mutius Scsevola in the pre- by Jacopo Bassano. The Winter sence of Porsenna — the Continence saloon contains a large Picture re- of Scipio— and Titus Manlius Tor- presenting the Madonna, the In- quatus condemning his Sons. The rant Jesus, Saints, and Angels, by thapel-Ch^amher contains — ^Tar- Bordone — another laige Picture quin and Lucretia, by Sarzana — representing the Holy Famihr and David and Saul, l^ Passignano — Angels, by Procaccinof — Judith Jesus and his Disciples in me* Gar- givmg the Head of Holofemes to den of Olives, by Bassano ! — and a Slave, by Paolo Veronese — ^ a the Wise and foolish Virginifi, by Philosopher, by Spa^oletto — a Tintoretto. The Frescos in the Woman with a Flower m her hand. Chapel are by Domenico Parodi ; painted on wood, by John Holbein as likewise is, Heimione at her — S. John Baptist, by Iieonardi da Toilette, in the Ante-clumber, The Vinci — ^the Hx)ly Family, by Pel- Saloon, ealied the Trials of Youth, legro Piola I— ditto, by Cappuccino contains a Picture painted on —-Portrait of a Genoese Senator, wood, by Rubens ; and represent- by Rubens f-^the Tribute Money, ing hunself and his wife f— Cleo- by Vandyck ?*-the Flight into E- patra with the Asp, by Guercino f gypt, by Carlo Maratta— S. Rocco — ^the Martyrdom of a Saint, by extended on the earth with persons Paolo Veronese — Charity, by Cap- dying of the Plague and Angels ho- puccino — the blessed Virgin, the Tering near, by Domenichino— the Infant Jesus, and a Figure wor- Annunciation,byPaoloVeronese — shipping him, by Giacomo Bas- S. Caterina, by Baroccio — and a sano I — Soldiers skirmishing, by half-length Figure with a Beard, by Vandyck — and Noah sacr^cing

Ok v.] (JKNOA. Ill

ftfter the Deluge, by Scorza. f)u a Landscape, by Poussint — the

Summer Saloon, called Patriotism, Saviour and the Woman of Sa-

contains a Picture of the entrance' maiia, by the same artist — and the

of the AnimaJg into the Ark, by Saviour crowned with thorns, by

Castiglione! — a Woman plucking Cappuccino. The second Saloon

a Goose, by Ca|)puccino — and contains — ^two Pictures, represent-

Shepherds with Animals, by Gio- ing Autumn and Winter, oy Bas-

vanni Hosa. Several of the apart- sano. The third Saloon contains

ments in this Palace derive their ^a Ceiling, by CasteDo, which

names from the Frescos by Defer- represents the Exploits of Scipio

rari, Affner, Piola, Parodi, &c., in Spain: and among the Easet

which ornament the Ceilinfi;9. Pictures are — a Portrait, by Ben-

The PaUvtzO'Serra^ deserves venuti Garofolo — the Madonna^

notice on account of its Saloon, by Paggi — Cupid, by Valentin —

One of the most sumptuous apart- Susanna and the Elders, by Cap« 

ments in Europe. puccino — Bacchus and other ¥{•

The Palazzp^Spinola^ contains gures, by Rubens— Christ and S. the following Pictures: — HcUl', Veronica, by Tintoretto — ^the Ma* Fl'escos representing the Exploits donna and Infknt Jesus, by Gio- of the Amazons, by Andrea Sem- vanni BeDino— Christ on the Cross* mino. — Oil-painting: — Portrait of by Vandyck — the Madonna, the a Man on horseback, by Vandyck Saviour, and Saints, by Liiini — — four figures of the Virtues, by Christ crowned with thorns, at- Domenico Piola — Landscapes with tributed to Titian — and a Portrait, Ammals, by Bassano. First Sor by Andrea del Sarto. toon. The Ceiling, painted by The Palazzo^Carega^'i^ sAomei CasteQo, represents the Death of with Frescos, by Castello, and the Cassius — the Triumvirate of Au- following Easel Pictures: — Ani- gustus — ^Anthony and Lepidus — mals, by Giovanni Rosa — ^the Mar Andiony besieged at Perugia — donna, the Infant Jesus, and S«  Anthony hard pressed at Modena Domenico, by Solimene— the De-* — and reace between Anthony and scent from the Cross, by Procac- Pompey. Among the Oil-paintings cino — Christ appearing, after his are, — ^two Portraits, by Andrea del Resurrection, to the Magdsisne, Sarto — Portrait of a Senator, by by Franceschini— the Woman of Tintoretto — ^the Madonna with the STamaria, bv the same artist — ^the Infant Jesus, Joseph, and S. John Woman of Canaan at our Sa- Baptist, by Guido — Portrait of a viour's feet, by P. G. Piola! — ^the literary Man, by Sebastiano del Holy Women with the Angel at Piombo — ^the Nativity, by Bassano the Holy Sepulchre, by the sams — ^the Madohna and Infant Jesus, artbt ! — the Adoration of tha by Mecherino of Siena, one of his Magi, by Paolo Veronese— the best works — Diana bathing, by Madonna and Infant Saviour, by Luca Cambiaso — a dead Christ, Cignani!^5. Luke, by Guercino by Cappuccino — a Guitar Player, — Isaac with Rebecca and Jacobs hy Valentin. — ^Tobias giving sight by Cappuccino ! — Portrait of Ru- to his Father, by Cappuccino — bens, painted by himself—Portrait Venus, attributed to Titian — a of a Frelate, by Vandyck — a Si- Head, by Vandyck I — a Portrait, byl, by Simone da Pesaro — APietd^ by Titiaiv— David, by Guido— two by Carlo Maratta— S. Sebastiano, small Pictures, by Cappuccino — by Caravaggio — Jacob's Sons Jacob's Journey, by Castiglione-* shewing him the bloody garments

(0 Strada-Naoya. (i>) Strada-Kaoya. (») Ibid,

112

GENOA*

[Ch. V-

of Joseph, by Guercino — Judith and her Servant, by the same artist ! — Herodias with the Head of S. John, by Titian I— the Holy Family, by Procaccino — ^the Ma- donna and Infant Jesus, by the same master! — andRachael seated on the Idols of Laban, by Castig- lione. The Ceiling of the Gallery is painted by Deferrari, and repre- sents the History of ^Eneas : and the Chapel contains a Group, in marble, of the Madonna and In- fant Jesus, by Puget.

Palazzo del Sig. Gaetano Cam- btaso. On the ground-floor of this edifice are the Public Baths. The first Saloon, on thi right, contains several small Pictures ; one of which, Santa Maria Mad- dalena, by Albano, is much ad- mired. Here hkewise is the Ador- ation of the Shepherds, by Dome- nico Piola — and the Adoration of the Magi, by Castello. T/ie third Saloon contains — David with the Head of Goliah, by Guercino — Christ appearin£^ to the Magda- lene, by Carlo Marattal — a por- trait of Calvin, by Holbein — a Philosopher, painted on wood, by Lucas de Leyden — ^the Flight into Egypt, by the same master — ^the Decapitation of S. John Baptist, by Guercino — ^the Marriage of S. Catherine, by Carlo Maratta — a half-length Female Figure, Carac- ci- School — ^twohalf-lengthFigures, by Palma Giovane — ^the Marriage of S. Catherine, by Albano — §. Luke, by Guido — ^the Holy Fa- mily and S. John, by Raphael — and. the Holy Family, by Andrea del Sarto. The fourth Saloon contains — the Holy Family, by Palma Giovane — the Deposition from the Cross, by Lodovico Ca- racci — ^three Portraits, by Vandyck — and one by the Caracci-School. The fifth Saloon contains — S. John Baptist, by Sirani — ^the Magdalene, by Guido — ^the Deposition from the Cross, by Lucas de Leyden — and

(o) Near the

the Madonna and Infant Jesus, by Carlo Maratta.

Palazzo- Grillo' Cataneo *. A- mon^ the numerous Pictures which enrich this Edifice are the following: — Hall. Portrait of a Lady seated, by Rubens — a large Landscape, by Tempesta — the Madonna and Infant Jesus, by Velasquez — a Flute PJayer, by Caravaggio — Narcissus, by Do- menico Parodil^a large Picture of Animals, by Tempesta — the Saviour crowned with thorns, Ca- racci-School — the Adoration of the Shepherds, by Domenico Piola — three Angels, by Procaccino — Sampson, by Paolo Veronese — ^the Martyrdom of S. Stephen, by Pietro da Cortona — and the Depo- sition from the Cross, by Sebas- tiano Conca. Cabinet, The Holy Family, by Albano — the Flight into Egypt, by Castiglione — Moses striking the Rock, by Ciro Ferri — the Passage of the Red Sea, by Tempesta — ^the Madonna with the Infant Jesus asleep, by Frances- chini — Portrait of a Lady, by Ti- tian — Animals entering the Ark, by Tempesta — and a Sea- Port, by Brand. Bedc/iamber. The Ma- donna, the Infant Jesus, and An- gels, by Cambiaso ! — and a Battle, by Borgognone. Saloon, The Incredulity of S. Thomas, by De ferrari — an Ecce Homo, Caracci- School ! — Christ banishing the Buyers and Sellers from the Tem- ple, by Salvator Rosa ! — a Land- scape, by Brughet -r- the Holy Family, by Schidone — S. Agnes with the Lamb, by Andrea del Sarto — a Woman playing with a Parrot, by Mieris — S. Francesco, by Strozzi! — a Jew, by Mieris — Christ appearing to the Magda- lene, by Rubens — Luther and Ca- therine, by Bordone! — the Ma- donna, the Infant Jesus, and Saints, by Sarzana! — the Holy Family and S. Anne, by Simone da Pesaro — a Portrait attributed

Porta-Portello.

Oh. v.] <5EN0A. 113

to Titian ; though, according to dyek f— and a Picture repres«iting some opinions, it is a Portrait of Music, by Guercino. Tne Saloon^ Calvin, painted by Holbein — Por- contiguous to the Eaiing-room, trait of a Philosopher, by Dome- contains — S. Francesco, by Strozzi nichino — the Martyidom of S. —the Magdalene, by Romanelli — Stephen, by Lodovico Caraccil— S. Peter, by Rubens — the Ma- the Circumcision, by Procaccino— donna and infant Jesus, by Schi- the Madonna and Infant Jesus, by done — the Madonna praying, by Immola — Views of Rome, by Strozzi f — Jacobus Journey, by Vanlind-— the Holy Family and S. Giacomo Bassano-— S. John Bap- John Baptist, by Raphael I ^~ a tist, by Antonio Caracci — the Child in Regal Robes, by Rem- Magdalene borne by Aneels to brandt — and a Prelate, by Rubens. Heaven, by Franceschini — the The Gallery contains a nne Land- Madonna della Gohnna, by Ra- se^, by Tavella. phael ! !— and Saints Girolamo and The PalazzO'Pallavicim " con- Francesco, by Guercino. Summer tains several good Pictures; a- So/oon— Diana bathing with her mong which are the following :— Nymphs, and ActsBon transformed Ante-Hall — a Man on Horseback, into a Stag, by Albano ! — a small by Parodi — and a Lady with a Landscape on wood, by Brughet little Boy, by Vandyck. Saloon — ^the Buth of Adonis, by Fran- tDith a fire-mace — ^Abraham's Sa- ceschini — ^the Madonna, the Infant erifice, by' Franceschini — Hagar Jesus, &c., by Luctts de Leyden — with Ismael, by the same master S. Francesco praying, by Guido— — the Magdalene, painted on cop- the Deposition from the Cross, by

S9r,byAnnibaleCaracci — ^Joseph's Albert Durer— the Madonna, witn ream, with the Madonna, &c., the Infant Jesus sleeping, by painted on copper, but not fi- Franceschini — and the Holy Fa- nished, l^ Lodovico Caracci — a mily in repose, by Lucas de Ley- Landscape with Animals, by Cas- den.

tiglione — Silenus intoxicated, by TA^Paia^rjro-itfan is ornament -

Rubens !— the Woman detected in ed with a large Portico, containing

Adultery, by Spagnoletto — Bath- a colossal Statue of Hercules, by

sheba bathing, by Franceschini — Filippo Parodi. In tfie great Hall

the Deposition from the Cross, by are — a Picture by Castillo — ano-

Lucas de lieyden ! — ^Mutius Scaj- ther by Castiglione — and four

vola holding his right hand over Portraits, by Vandyck. The Ceil-

the fire in presence of Porsena, ing of the first Saloon on the

painted on wood, by Guercino ! — right was painted by Domenico

Rebecca giving water to Abra- Parodi, and represents Truth and

ham^s Sta^, t^ Assereto — the Time. Among the Easel Pictures

Birth of the Madonna, by Luca in this Room are — ^the Adoration

Giordano— the Presentation of the of the Magi, by Carlo Maratta —

Madonna, by the same artist — S. Rocco curing a Person infected

and two Landscapes; by Bassano. with the Plague, by Borgognone —

Drawing-room — Cleopatra with the Magdalene, by Franceschini —

the Asp, by Semmino I — a Sacri- Animals, by Castiglione — Chil-

fice to Pan, by Castiglione I — dren, by Domenico Piola — and a

Romulus discovered by Faustulus, half-length Female Figure, by

likewise the production of Castig- Vandyck. The Second Scuoon con-

lione I — Venus and Cupid, by tains — ^the Adoration of the Magi,

Cambiaso— Veturia entreating Co- by Carlo Maratta — a small Head,

riolanus to save Rome, by Van- painted on copper, by the same

(») Piazsa-Qaribaldi. (o) Piafxa-Campetto.

114

®«NQA.

E^,¥>

JPsama^Ve^chio-rri-n Old Woman, gu^Qari -r three l^rgQ PictvflF^S

by ditto— 8, Fran^etsiQO, by Albapa representing Scripture Histqiies,

T^ a. Paul, by (?!uei»cino -^ thQ by Franqesebini 1 -" Calyaiy, by

M«mRg^, Qf Bt Cathmne, by G^rlone -^ a amail Qppy 9f th<^

Pftoio Veronese -r^ the S^ppe¥ f^ Transfiguration, attnl^tecl to oni^

Emma^up, by Gu^rino rm g. John of the Garaeci ftoiW— a Pi^Q, b»

baptist in the Pesext, by (Juido-^^ Gftrlp Mftrftttft^-aad the Birth of

^ Madonnp. md Infant Jesus, the Saviour, attributed to Scbidon^t

by Oorreggip, painted en ec^pev J and likewise to Qorr^^Q J 4no^

-.^ Christ bewnng his Cross, by ther Apartment contains! -^ th^

Titian l-^Portrait of an Qld Per- Holy Fainily, by Borgognone-r-,

9Qn with a Beard, by Vandycfe-^ Abrahwn'g BaQnfipe> by ditto -^

S, Girolam^Jt, by Spagnoletto— «, Pishes, by Gai^ogli— -the Holy F^r

Philosopher studying, School of mily, by Castello — Fruits, by Ga,-.

Titjan— Christ represented as a mogU—the Madonna a»d Ip&nt

YQuth with the Criobe in his hand, Jesus, CaraQci-School — a Lan4'»

ftt^ibuted to Raphael^-the Hply scape, by Tempesta— a Landscape

Wtmxly, painted on eopper, by attributed to Pougsin-^a Battle, by

Eaphael-^a Woman sleeping, atr tiie Gav. d'Arpino — Landseapei^,

tribute4 either to Titian, or Palnia by Wael— Faith with an Infant,

Ve^bio^^two Infants, by Pome-s by Pomenico Piol^ — GbariJty, l^

niea Piola—rS, Louis, painted on ditto — ^the Marriage of Cannji, by

copper, by (3^uido | ttts and three Bassano^n-the Adoration of the

sniall Pictures on copper, by the Magi, painted on wpoiA, by Parmi-.

Oaraoei family. Th^ Qc^hty is gianino — the Flight into Efypt^ by

ornamented with Frescos, by Po-r Guido — a Wet-nurpe with \\^x

menioo Piola. Child, and other Figures, by An-t

Palaz9Q-8jpdnehK Among the nibale Oaracei! — ; the Woman of

Pictures here are the following :— » Slamaria, by Lupa Giard^nOr— Anc|

ffall-r-'Troy in flames, by Lucca Asss^ssins, Oy Wael. Giordano — and the Gumaean Sibyl The P(d(W9o IXQria P^t^lli^

eonducting w^neas to the Lake beyond the Porta San Tonimaso,

AvemuB, bv Carlone. QcUleryr^ is the largest of all the Genoese

The Holv Family, painted o& cop-> Palaces ; but, being negleeted, i^

per, by Albano — Sketches, by GJt hastening fast tp decay. The fine

ordano, of Pictures now in the BVesco of Jupiter annihilating the

Paris Gallery — r a large Landr Giants, with which this edifice wa^

scape, by Brughet — a Saint, by enriched by Pierino del Vaga, iS|

Carlo Maratta — the Arch-Angd however, well preserved ; and th^

Gabriel, l^ ditto — ^Joseph before Garden contains a statue of A^t

Pharaoh, iW Le Sueur — S. Sebas- drea d'Oria, in the chara^^tei* pf

tiano, by Guido — the Madonna Neptune', with the Infant Jesus sleeping, by The Unwersity, a splendid e4if

Guercino — the Family of Tobias, fice, has, in its Vestibule, twQ

hy Domenichino— tiie Magdalene, Lions of marble, which are mueh

by Guido — S. Carlo Borromeo, admired. The Hall of the Far

(p) Near the Piaxsa-Fontana Amorosa.

(jq) Duku Pasqua has receatly fambhcd hif residence el^^antly, and enriched ^t with the following pictures : Ist room. — The £U>Iy family, by Leonardo da Vinci. — Oallen/. PoKtrftit c^ a Ladjr, by Bassano— portrait offi ijfeatl^man, by H^e same Artist— the Madonna and' Infant Sanoar, with S. John, by Fra Bartolommeo— and » Portmit, hf Titimi, Srd

room. — ^Bacchns and Ariadne, by Sebastiane del Piombo 1— portrait of a Laay, by Vav dyck— a Picture called Qiacalleri, by Cart^ vaggio — the Hours, by Raphael I -i- Love* dancing, by the same master ! — a dead Christ, the Madonna, and other Figures, by Rubens — and the same sutnect, by peb^tian^ del Piombo.

Oh.V.3 BENOA. • 111

eulhr of Justice IS embellished with Bartoldmraeo Bosoe, is a nobk es- a Reture of the Assumption I^- tablishment for the Sick of all and another of the Holy Family — nations ; and likewise for Found- both 1^ Galeotti ; with several lings : the Boys remaining till th^ good Paintings by Feirari. The sure able to work; the Girls stiU Hall of Theology contains a Pie? longer. The number of Sick Per* ture of the Salutation, by Sarzana sons contained in this Hospital •^thd Assumption, by Galeottir-? has frequently exceeded one thour and othnr paintings, l^ Ferrari, sand ; and the number of Found- The Hall of rhilosophv eontains a lings ^ree thousand. Picture of the Salutation, by Dof ne Hospital oflnoupobies is i^ menico Parodi — three small Faint- noble establishment, ings, representing Apollo and the Tke Schooi for the D^tf emd Muses ; Plato dictating to his Dumb, founded by the Abate Oe^ Disciples; and Aristotle with hii| tavio Assarotti, in 1801, receives Scholars -ra Female weeping at twenfy* two Boys, and eleven Girls; the menaces of a Warnor — othev who ai)e either instructed hi the pictures, by Ferrarir->and a fine art of engraving upon wood, t» Bgure of 6. Ignatius, by Pede- copper, or taught some usefbl monte. The Hall of Medioine ia trade.

adorned with Paintings by Ferrari, Tk^ ConservatpHo deile Ffe-

and the Gi?eat Hall of the Uni- sohine, at Zerbino, is capable of

vereity eontains fine Frescos, by receiving three, humhred persons j

Andrea Carlone— a Picture of the and artificial Flowers, famous

Cireumcision. by Sarzana — and throughout Europe, are made here,

tix Statues of bronze, by Gio- Grenoa eontains two Theatres ;

vanni di Bologna ; those which that of S. Agostono, and that of

represent Faith and Hope being The Falcone; neither of which

^e bast. accords, in point of splendour,

Tke Albergo dei Poveri, per- with the other public edifices*!

haps tibe most magnificent Hosr but although these edifices, and

pital in Europe, stands upop a those of inSviduals, are peculiarly

lofty eminence ; and was founded magnificent, although the palaces

by a Nobleman of the Brignoli are cased with marble, and the

family, to serve as an asylum for Strada-Balbi, the Strada-Nuova,

upward of a thousand persons, and the Strada-Nuovissima, are

from old age, and other causes, strikingly superb, still the nar-

reduced to want. It is, at the rowness of the other streets, and

present moment, sufficiently capa- the want of spacious piazzas,

cious to lodge above two thousand gives an air of melancholy to the

persons; and serves as a refuge Town in general: its environs,

for the Destitute, a house of Cor- however, are exempt from this

reetion, and a School, where every defect ; and display a delightful

individual able to work is taught union of ^andeur and cbe^ul-

some useful trade. The Church ness ; the whole road to Sestri ', a

belonging to this Edifice contains distance of five Genoese miles,,

a Basso-rilievo, by Michael An- exhibiting a line of Villas, nearly

gelo, of the Madonna embracing equal in size and splendour to the

the dead body of Christ I and an palaces within the precincts of the

Assumption, in marble, by Puget 'I City.

The Great Hospital, founded by The Aqueducts which supply

(r) The situation of this Hospital has of (t) A new and superb Theatre Js now

late beooaie unhealthy. buiidinf , and wUl shortly he completea.

(0 Sestri, on the road to Savona.

I 2

116 • GENOA. [Ch.V.

Gknoa with water are six leagues public Wotks, and public cha- in extent; and so commodiously rities. The Common People are arranged that every story of every active and industrious ; and the house has its fountain : perhaps, Silks, Velvets, Damasks, and Pa- however, the quality of the water per of Genoa, have long been ce- may be injured by passing a con- lebrated.

siderable length of way through Provisions in this City are about leaden pipes. the same pride as at Rome ; house- Genoa contains good Hotels " ; rent is considerably cheaper ; but audits population, including San ready-furnished lodgings are diffi- Pietro d' Arena, but not the Port, cult to obtain '. is supposed to amount to 85,000 The magnificent Post-road of inhabitants. It has given birth Fal di Scrivia, begun by the late to several distinguished Charac- Government and continued by the ters, pre-eminent among whom present, in order to avoid the dan- were Columbus, and Andrea gerous Passage of the Bocchetta, d*Oria\ An Italian proverb between Genoa and Turin, is now says of this City, " that it has sea, completely finished ; and extends without fish ; land, without trees ; to Novi, where it joins the old and men, without faith." The road to Alessandria, provisions, however, not excepting The Post-road from G«noa to nsh, are excellent; but the wine Nice, likewise begun by the late is, generally speaking, of an infe- Government, and continued by the rior quality; and the climate by present, is now (as already men- no means a good one. The coun- tioned in the commencement of try, though thinly wooded, is, in this Work) open for carriages of some parts, romantic and beauti- all descriptions ; well supplied ful ; but its inhabitants are reputed, with Post-horses, and furnished to want faith, like their Ligurian with tolerable Hotels, This Road, ancestors. The Genoese School from Genoa to Noli, and again of Medicine stands high in Italy ; from Ventimiglia to Nice, has and Doctor Scassi, who speaks long been practicable for carriages : English, and has also studied at and during -the current year, 1827, Edinburgh, is an eminent Genoese the Nissards, to accommodate the Physician. The Nobles of the King and Queen of Sardinia, country^ are too often deficient in finished the intermediate part, so education, and seldom fond of as to make it perfectly safe for the literature : they rarely inhabit the carriages of their Sovereign, and best apartments of their superb likewise for others : and we have palaces ; but are said to like a every reason to suppose the Nis- splendid table ; though their chief sards will do their utmost to be- ^atification has always consisted nefit a Road which must ulti- in amassing wealth for the lauda- mately prove to them a mine of ble purpose of expending it on gold. Its length from Genoa to

r«) The Hotel de York is excellent ; The franc ; appealing to' the tariff to prove that

Botel de la Ville spacioos, bat dear; The his demand is legal.

Crocs di Malta reasonable with respect to (v) This great Admiral and Patriot well

living, but not so mnch calculated ^r Fami- deserved the following eulogy, inscribed b^

lies as for single men. The Hdtel de Londres the Genoese Republic upon the base of his

is a ffood Inn ; and The Hdtel de la Paste, statue. " Andrea d'Ona, the best of Citi-

though small, is comfortable and cheap. Tra* zens, the successfal Champion, and the Re*

▼ellers, on arrivin^^ at an Hotel in this City, storer of public liberty."

•re usually assailed by a host of Porters ; (to) Travellers, before they quit Genoa,

each of whom, if he carry even the smallest are obliged to have their passports eacamined

of parcels from the Traveller's carriage to and signed at the Police Office ; paying, for

his apartment in the Hotel, demands half a the signature, about four francs.

Ch..V.] NICE—MARITIME ALPS. 117

Nice is computed to be about one winter-snow. It was constructed

hundred and twenty miles ; and under the reign ofVictor-Amadeus-

persons who travel en voiiurier Maria, King of Sardinia (who

usually accomplish this Xoumey in completed it in seventeen years) ;

four days. The Posts are thirty- and has lately been improved by

five and three-quarters in number ; the French, especially between

and the road passes through Sa- Nice and Scarena'. It lies, for

Yona, Noli, OnegUa, Ventimigha, about five miles, on the banks of

Mentone, and near Monaco, to ' the PagUon ; and then ascends the

Nice. The Hotels at Albenga and mountain of Scarena to the Village

Oneglia, that at S. Remo^.and the of that name, a drive of less than

H^tel de Turin at Ventimiglia, three hours. It then ascends ano-

afford the best accommodation on ther mountain composed of red,

this Route *. grey, and white marble ; and on

Nice is seated in a small plain, arriving at. the summit, after a bounded on the west by the Var, drive of about two hours and a anciently called the Vartia, which half, the traveller is presented with divides it from Provence; on the a view of Sospello, situated in the south by the Mediterranean, which opposite valley, and apparently not washes its walls ; and on the north hcof a mile distant : yet so lofty is by that chain of Alps called Mart- the mountain, and so numerous are tvnuB, which seems designed by na- the windings of the road, that tra- ture to protect Italy from the inva- vellers have nine miles to iro, ere sionsofher Gallic neighbours. The they reach Sospello. This Village, Citadel of Mont-Albano overhangs built on the banks of the Paglion, the Town ; and the Paglion, a tor- and surrounded with Alps, con- rent which descends from tiie adja- tains two tolerable Inns. Hence cent mountains, separates it from the road climbs the lofty mountain what is called the English Quarter, of Sospello, winding through im- and runs into the sea on the west. mense rocks of marble, some of

The situation of Nice is cheer- which were blown up, in order to

ful, the walks and rides are pretty, make way for carriages. Near

the lodging-houses numerous, and Sospello stands an ancient Roman

tolerably convenient ; the eatables Castle ; but, what seems extraor-

good and plentiful, and the wine dinary, the old Roman road over

and oil excellent; but the near these Maritime Alps is nowhere

neighbourhood of the Alps, and discoverable. After ascending for

the prevalence of that searching three hours, the traveller reaches

wind called Vent de bise, render the summit of the mountain, and

the air frecjuently cold, and even then descends in less than one hour

frosty, during winter and spring; to LaChiandola; a romantic Vil-

while in summer the heat is ex- lage, seated at the brink of a brawl-

cessive '. ing torrent, and adorned by Cas-

The road over the Maritime Alps cades gushing from jagged rocks of

from Nice to Turin is superb and a stupendous height. Travellers

wonderful; though not safe for usually sleep at La Chiandola, carriages during the season of where the Inn is tolerably good,

(x) Persons wlio fto in a Felucca from Ge- riage, costs about forty francs,

noa to Nice, reach Oneglia the first night, (j/) The principal Inns at Nice are L'H6-

and arrive at the end of their voyage on the tet 'des EtrangerSy and VHdtel de Tork ; thia

second, provided the weather prove favour- former is excellent.

able; paying for a ten-oared Felucca, large («) This road, as constrooted by Victor- Ama-

enongh to contain an English travelling car- deus, was always passable for carnages at riage, about five louis-d'ors. The transport certain seasons of the year; and not only of a ligbt, open, fonr>wbeel«d, empty car- pwsablet but exceUent. .

lU MARITIME ALM—TtJftlN. [Oh: f.

Ind fieit morftlng set out for Tehda. ftttthef ." It i^ prudfeftt t§ pasS the

To d^Sdribe the sfcefieit between Col-di-Tehda bfefore mid-dajr ; be-

thisTown and La Chiatidbla would fcau^fej at that tiiufe, thei-e lisusaiy

be iiflpossible^imagination could Hses a strong wind Very inconve-

not picture it.— The accent is gra- nientto Travellers* This passagCj

dual, by the Side of the torrenti since it was improved by the Fretidh,

which, from rushing impetuously has seldom decupled abdve five

bver enormous masses of stone, hours* persdu^i therefore, wh6

forms itself ihto an endless variety' Wave Tetida at eight in the hiom-

ef Cascades, While the Stupendous ing, may eipect to rekch the feiim*^

rocks through which the rostd is mit of the a^cetit by eleven. The

^erced, from their immense height, first part df this asdent presents

grotesque shapes, ahd verdant picturesque prospects embellished

fclothittg^, added to the beautiful with bold Cascades ; the latter

Water*falls with which they are part is usually etiveloi>ed with

%mbeUished, exhibit one of the clouds ; and colder than any other

most awfully magnificent Grottoes passage df thfe Alps, practicable fdi*

that the inasterly hand of Nature carriages. The summit of the Col*

^ver made. Through this Grotto di-Tehda is a barren rdck, whence

the road passes for several miles ; may be dfesdried Moht-Visoj with

the pf-dspect oil every side being uther Alps still morfe lofty ; and the

bdiinded by mountaihs whdse sum- town of Limone seated iti a Val©,

inits the eye catiriot reach ; though through which rushes k torrefat

iSdmetihies the peak of an Alp pre- formed by the sndw from the Col.

jSentS; itself; atid resemblfes a bril- Limoiie, contains a tolerable Inn.

liaht obehsk of shdw resting on the Hence the rdad rims parallel with

Ijlouds. Suddenly, however, thiii those streams which fertilise thii

Sfeenery is Varied by the appearance wild part of Piedmotitj till it enters

df a large fortified Castle suspend- the luxuriant t)laiii in which fetandS

fed i!i the aii-, (fdir so it really seems Coni ; a well situctted Towti, With

to be, owing td the dense fogs fortifications once deemed impreg-

li^hich eiiveldp the mountain it nable. Here, at the Post-house,

Stands updtt ;) and* Sdon aftferj k 4'ravellers usually sleep ; proceed-

tUrfa in the rdad exhibits the Towft ihg ttext day td BiaVigllltno ; through

df Saorgioi' built in the shape df a flatj plentiful-, and highly culti*

hh amphitheatre, and apparently vated country, whifeh forms a strik*-

|)oi&ed bet^eeh earth and heaven ; ing eontitist. to the sublime wild-

Ihe mouhtain on Which it is seated iiess of the Alps. SavigUarid is a

being Veiled with cloud*. Magni- large ToWn, containing a tolerable

ficfeht chedtnut-WdodSi eonvents. Hotel; and thende the rdad passes

hermitages, remaitts of castles, and thh)Ugh Cdrignario to Turin; old Roman causey Si preseftt them- This City, seated in k spacidus

tselves on either side of the rdiad, plain loaded with mulberries, vines,

till it reaches Tenda ; whidh is Si- and corn, arid Watered by the rivers

tuated under an immense Alp of Po and Dora, (the former of which

the same name, computed to be Wias anciently called Bodihco, cfr

eight thousatid feet in height, and bottomless,) is approached by foUt

over the summit of which Victor- fine roads shaded with forest-trees ;

Amadeus carried the road. Tenda while the surrounding hills are

is a sombre-looking Town, resem- covered with handsome edifices ;

bling what Poetry would pictiure as pre-eminent among which towers

the world's end ; for the cloud- the magnificent Church of La Su-

capped mountain behind it seems perga. to say, Thou shalt proceed no Tuxin was denominated ^%e»«lfa

CLV4 Wftm. M

IMr^iidmm, ^ Augtistttii^ wheh a ^VLptrb lligh-lltaf ftfid Bikldte^

h6 ^fcd% it ihtb ^ RomekA colonV * ahino« 

befoi-e which period it bbi« th« ^H^ G^ftl'^^rct dl S: CAft»fMd oe»^

name bf TauHnunit trofo. being the tains a Statue of S. Teresa, deemed

Capita bf the Taurim, a natibn thecA^-«f<!PMt)**«df Le Grds-. of Cisalpine G^ul. Th^ modem The Teatro tit CdHgnahb (d

ii^alldr or irslinpjBffts, lii« about fbitf handsome; knd the Grun Te^H

miles Iround^ end eontam n§ar is one of the lal^st lUid liiOil

e^htf -eight thousand penons: th^ beautiful Buildings of its kind e«*

Gitfltdel^ a particularly line fortresss istihg.

t?hich the French almost destroyed; I%e UHivH*iit^ contains a fine

is now rebuilding* The sttieetSi Statue of Cupid, supposed to be

which «tfe widCi straight, and cleaUj Cri*ecian scUlptiire — ^a vefy valui^le

inters^t each other at right angles j ancient Mosaic Parement — ^the ee*

60 that dn one particular spot^ ill lebrated Isiac Tabl^, found at Mati-

the middle of the Towii, they may, tua, and one of the most precibUlt

Itecording to te^fort, be tetU seen at monuments e)ctant of Egyptian an^

Jance, ls*uingj like raysj fl^m . h tiquity I— together with Baerifieiid

common centre-." The Strada del Vases — Lamps — Medals^ ^. 1^0, ttie Stradl3i-Nuova, and the The Public Garden, and the

StrfeulA del Dora-grande, are Very Rslmparts, are delightiUl PtDme-

handsome : so are the Piazza del nades ; and were it not f^ a Want

Oastello> and the PiaizH di S. of correctness and simplicity in the

Carlo ; eaibh being embellished with structm^ iLhd decorations of the

Porticos t and the Bridge thrown principal edifices, Turin Would bfe

by the French, over, the Po, is one one of the most beautiful Town*

of the most beautiful pieces of iti Europe.

architecture bf its kind in Europe. Here are se^ral Hotels • * ^ood

• Th^ Rofol Pniftee contains an shop^, (where the manufi^turefr

Equestrian StAtue of Aniadeus I; of the feountty> tiamely, velvet*,

magnificent suites of apartments ; Isilks^ silk stobking^, tapestiy, pbiv

and a valukble coQebtion of Pic- celain, chllhibi8.lee.ther gloves^ ^.

tures ; among Which iff A PoHtait are sold \) a good market fok* eat*-

T^f Charles I, bit Eh^ftnd — ^thte ables, knd good Wine : but the fb^

GWldren of Ch^le& I, with a Dbg Which ihvariably pi^vail, dibinfe

— and a Prince of the House of autumn and Wihter, make the feli-

Gari^nanb on Horseback — all by mate, at those seasons, unWhole-

Vandyck — Hother; represented as some ; and thfe foul abd hoxiolis

k bliiid ffj^mwinisa^orei by Murillo watei', tob fi^u6ntly fburid in thte

— 4he Prodigal Sbti, by Guercino-t- Wells and reservoirs of thiS Gi^,

and dattlei%PAul Potter. bfteii prbVes eveh h greatei- evil

. This CathedriM merits notice, bU tH'aH the fogs : thei^ is; hbweVet-,

afccouht bf one of its Chat)els, before the Po-Gate, heat th^ Gtt-

«alled La GAppelia del 8. Sudarib, puchin-coriVent, a Well bf eicel-

biliit aftef thte designs of Gu&rinij lent watet \

TM Vhi€^ di fif. Filippo NeH The objfects best worth nbtide

•IS A fine Edifice in pbint bf axtihi- in the Eftvirons of Turin ai^ :

teetut-bi buHt after the designs bf FcUentiHo, Whete there is a public

•'Atfvara, TbfiheSe; and contaitis GaJrd'ei\— £te Fillet dtlla Regtm,

{ik) L'Albenao detr tlhivetso-^L^Ewopa— tk'e AQstriftn amb)Mfl4der, jf tte)^ dwin goffig

' lU Angela — ^and £« Pension Sutstet a small beyoiiS the Sardinian territories. Tor the

but comfortable Inn. . latter signature four francs a«d *, half. P«'

' (5) Trkvellfer^, befow tii^y quit Turiii. are pasS«)rl, are (UilMwdea, iind lot tbe fottofix

obliged to have their passpottiS examined aad fotUrura^Cs. ....

signed at the FoUce Office ; ftad Uli«wis« by

120 ASTI— ALESSANDRIA. [Ch, V.

1/vhich .commands a fine view— and, after having passed the Vil-

Camaldoli, the road to which is lage of Annone, displays a parti-

Yery romantic — La Superga, (five cularly fine view of the Po ; pro-

noiies distant fi*om the City,) a ceeding, by Felizzano and Solera,

magnificent Church, where rest to Alessandria ; a handsome For-

the relics of the Sardinian King^ ; tress, seated in the midst of an

and La Veneria, a Royal Vula, extensive plain, and watered by

containing good Paintings, and a theTanaro. Alessandria is celebra-

fine Oran^erie. ted for the sieges it has sustained.

The rums of the ancient Town for the strength of its Citadel, per-

of Industria are not far distant haps the finest in Europe, and

firom Turin. for a magnificent Bridge covered

In order to return to Genoa by from end to end, and equally re-

the Route through Val di Scrivia, markable for • its length, height.

Travellers, on leaving Turin, pass and solidity. The Sluices of the

over the ma^ificent new Bridge Tanaro merit notice ; the Piazza

ahready mentioned, and proceed on d* Armi is spacious ; and the Royal

a eood and pleasant road, embel- Palace, the Governor's House, the

lished with fine views of the Po Churches of S. Alessandro, and

and the Alps, to Asti ; a large S. Lorenzo, the new Theatre, and

Town, seated amidst vineyards the Ramparts, are usually visited

which produce the best wine in by Travellers. This Town (which

Piedmont. contains about eighteen thousand

Asti, supposed to contain above inhabitants and two Hotels ^) was

ten thousand inhabitants, is en- anciently called Alexandria Sta-

circled with extensive walls in a telliorum; but has, in modern

ruinous condition: and. of the davs, acquired the ludicrous ap-

hundred Towers, for which it once pellation of Alessandria della Pag*

wasflEunous, scarce thirty remain ; 7ia; partly owing to a fiible, im-

and even these seem nodding to porting that the Emperors of Ger-

their fall. The people here are many were in former times crowned

poor, because inclined to idleness ; here, with a straw diadem ; and

and the Town, generally speaking, partly because the inhabitants,

has a sombre aspect, that quarter being destitute of wood, are sup-

excepted where the nobility reside, posed to bake their white bread

and where the buildings are hand- with straw.

some. Asti boasts the honour of On quitting Alessandria, the road containing the Paternal Mansion crosses the Tanaro, and imme- of the Conte Vittorio Alfieri, the diately re-enters the above-named greatest, and almost the only dis- plain ; called, on this side, that tinguished tragic Poet modem of Marengo ; and famous for the ItiJy ever produced. The Duomo, decisive victory gained here, by here, has been lately erected, and Napoleon, over the Austrians. Np merits notice ; as do the Churches ground can be better calculated for of S. Secondo, and the Madonna the strife of armies than this plain; aella Consolata, and likewise that which is not only extensive but o{ S, Bartolommeo dei Benedettini, flat; and equally devoid of trees on the outside of the walls . and fences. A quarter of a league Beyond Asti the road crosses distant from Alessandria flows the the Stironne, traverses a beautiful Bormida, a large and rapid tor- Vale richly clothed with grain ; rent ; and half a league further is

(c) Asti contains two tolerable Inns, name- (^d) The Orajtde Alhergo ^Italia ; and the ly, tl Leone d'orOt and the Orande Alhergo ; Lvcanda Reale, former best.

Ch. v.] NOVI— LEGHORN. 121

the hamkt of Marenso. One pub- and, provided the wind be tolerably

lie-house on this plain bears the fair, reaches Leghorn Harbour in

name of ** Torre di Marengo," two days. The Island of Gorgona,

and another that of " Albergo di and the Rock called Meloria, are

lunga fama; but the column, both situated on the right of the

surmounted by an eagle« and entrance into this fine Harbour;

placed on the spot where Desaix one part of which, that farthest

fell, is now to be seen no more. from the shore, is defended against

Beyond Marengo the road is " the violence of the sea by a Pier ;

divided in two branches : one, though large vessels anchor in the

leading through Tortona to Par- Roads, about two miles firom the

ma ; and, the other, through Novi Pier-head. The Li^t-house is

to Genoa. The latter branch pas- built upon an isolated Rock, in the

ses, on the way to Novi, the open sea.

Domenican Abbadia del Bosco, The Town of Leghorn, (in Ita-

enriched with a few good paintings, lian, Livomo,) the nurse-child of

and some sculpture ; the latter oy the House of Medicis, called by

Michael Ahgelo. the ancients Libumus Portas, and

Novi, placed among vineyards formerly subject to Genoa, was the a,t the base of the Apennine, con- first free port established in Ihe tains six thousand inhabitants, se- Mediterranean: and this political veral magnificent houses, which establishment, the work of Cosimo belong to opulent Genovesi, who I, who exchanged the episcopal spend the autumn here ; and two city of Sarzano for the then unim- good Inns'* : it is, therefore, the portant village of Leghorn, soon best sleeping-place between Turin rendered the latter a place of great and Genoa, both on account of consequence ; and by cutting seve- the last-named circumstance, and ral canals, and encouraging culti- likewise from being situated about vation, he, in some measure, de- midway. One ToYfer of the old stroyed the noxious vapours which Castle of Novi alone remains, natiu'ally proceeded from a loose standing on an eminence, and re- and marshy soil. Leghorn, to per- markable for its height. sons unskilled in the art of war.

After passing through the vine- seems strongly fortified ; though

yards, orchards, and chestnut- various circumstances would pre-

groves near Novi, the new Road, vent it from bein^ tenable long,

mstead of penetrating into the whether attacked by land or sea.

heart of the Apennine, and crossing This City is two miles in circum-

the summit of the Bocchetta, is ference, and contains sixty thou-

carried throuj^h Arquata, Ronco, sand inhabitants ; twenty thousand

and Pontedecimo, to Genoa *! of whom are said to be Jews. Its

Persons desirous of returning Ramparts are handsome ; and the

he;nce to Tuscany by water, in or- High -street, from its breadth and

der to visit the Port of Leghorn, straightness, from the richness of

must furnish themselves, at Genoa, its shops, and, still more, from the

with a Bill of Health ; which, on motley crowd of all nations wiUi.

quitting that City by sea, is indis- which it is constantly filled, pre-

pensable. A Felucca, of a proper sents a picture equally singular

• size to make this voyage, is usually and pleasmg. The great square is

hired for about twelve sequins, spacious ; and the Duomo is a

Sr) L* Albergo Reale in Via-Ohirardenghi, (/) Between Torin and Genoa a carriage

ia Posta, beyond the town, on the way with two inside places* and foar wheela, goes

to Genoa. The HOtel ^Europe t» very with two horses only, according to the

comfortable. Tariff.

hoble edifice, desired hf VAsari : " HM'tds " ^aS Ihscrtbed bh \hi this Churtih--4he7€m' Sptiagr>giie, Pisa-g;&tte: \Mi itlsfcriptibh, hoW- (one bf the finest in iEurope)— ^f A^ evfer, no longer exists : but nevei^- Vhutth 6/ the united (rteekf — the theless, it is impossible to enter Mdnhy or Bank — Micdl€9 8hop-^ Lucca Without feeling high respect the Coral Mamtf'actur& — the sireai fof a Town which, even during the Printing- Hoicse — the Opera-house plenitude of Roman despotism, — the four Slates in oronze, by maintained its owtl laws, and Pietro Tacca, chairied to the pe*- some deglree of liberty ; and which, flestal of the Stiettue of Ferdinando ^Inee that peribd till very recently, 1, which stands iu the Dock-yard, alvvays continued free. The tef- Ifcnd was done by Giovanni del ritory contains about foUt* hum Opera — the Lazzaretti — the Cam- dred square miles, and about ohe po-Santo — the English Burial- hundred and twenty thousand per- m-oundr^the new Aqueduct, tttciod. sons. Csesar wintered at LUcca to convey wholesome water to the after his third campai^ in (Graul : tJity from the mountains of Golog- and, according to Appian of Alex- ttole (twelve miles distant) — and andria, all the magistrates of Rome the Church of the Madonna di came to visit him ; insomuch that Montenero, are the objects best two hundred Roman Senators Ivere Worth notice in Leghorn and its seen before his door at the same Environs. Here are several Inns * : moment : which circumstance and the English Factory have a proves Lucca to have been, at Pfotestant Chapel. From Leg^ that period, a large City. Thfe horn there is an excellent road, Gate on which the word ** Libert- through part of the forest of Amo, tas" was inscribed, is now re- to Pisa, a distance of fourteen placed by a simple and elegant Tuscan miles ; though pei'sons Doric Archway • the Streets are who prefer water-carriage mav go, broad, Well paved, atld clean, but by the Canal, from the one City to irregular ; the Piaxza-Reale, in tiie otiier. From Pisa to Florence which the Royal Palace stands, is the most interesting road is that spacious, and adorned With H which lies through LuCca and modem Statue of Carrara marble ; Pistoja. the P&iace is large and handsome : Lucca, Called L'TndUstHosa, and and its Furniture, which even in beautifully situated, about twelve t*d,ris i^ould be celled supert), Tuscan miles from Pisa, in a luxu- was all made at Lucca. The riant valley, encircled by the Apen- Ceilih^s> atid Several of the Walls liine, and watered by tide Serchib, of the Apartments, are painted iti is defended by eleveti bastions of fi^co by Luchese artists t but fex^- brick, and ramparts, which, from cept one head by Correggid, Cof* being planted with forest* t^ees, helia, mother of the Gracchi, by. give this little City the appearance Camuccini, and Coriolanus, Ve^ •of a fortified wood with a watch- turtA, and Volumnia, by LaAdi, tower in its centre ; the edifice there are no Interesting easel-pi^ which resembles the latter beinfe tures. Among the ornaments Hf the cathedral, l^e Ramparts aii this Royal Mahsion is kn immense three miles in circumference ; and and splendid Vase of Sevres Por- fbtm a delightful promenade, either celain, which w&s presented hy on foot or m a carriage. Previous Napbleott to the Sovereigft • 4^f to the French revolution the word Lucca. *

(^) The Lbcanda di S. Marcot kept \>f Thomson, eOad ft good inn— ^ff drove ^ora^'-^

Ch. VJ LUCCA^MArlIA, #c. 123

' the Cmmrtds ewetiedin lOS^a, Upper rahki df people ai^e opu-

thbUgh uiiproinising withoiit, is & tent, leArtiedj and well-lticlined •

fine TUscan^Gothlb biiildih^ with- the mechatti<*s (Who Wei* ihstructed

4tt ; and eohtaitls, on the right Of by the RinceBs felise) display

thegreatdoof, theTomb of Adal^ great taste and expertness in

b^i suJrhamed •* The Rich," who making household furniture ; the

lived iti the beginning of the tenth lower ranks of people possess more

ceftttiiy; and was, according tb integrity of character, with a

Muratdri) the Progenitor of the felronger sense of religion, than is

Princess of E&te, Hhd the Housfe eommon* either in Roman Catholic

xi Brunswick Hanof er^ now So- or Protestant countries ; and the

Teigns of Great Britain. The fe- peasants are the most industrious

inous Countess Matilda wais ft and skilful husbandmen of south'*

descendant from the dbove-named em Italy.

Adalbert ; and this Princess, the Lucca contains a Seminary,

daughter, of a Duke of Lucca) founded by the Princess Elise, for

Wh» died in 1062, reigned over the education ot an hundrwl

Tufecany, Lombdrdy, and Liguria, daughters of noblemen, besides

hiaintaining desperate wars, for chil^en of humble birth; and

thirty successive years, against the this Princess had hkewise taken

Schismatics and Anti-Popes ; tillj measures to establish an Institute,

at lengthi she drove the Emperor, for the encouragement of arts and

Henry IV, but of Italy, dnd re* sciences, when sne was called upon

istofed to the Ohureh its ancient to relinquish her throne,

possessions. But to return to the The HStel koynl de la Croix d^

Cathedral r this fediiice is enriched Malthe is the best inn at Lucca.

Witli Paintings, by Coli and San* Travellers who enter this City

<*asciani, Lucchesi ; a Pieture, by with post-horses are compelled to

Zuccari ; another* by Tintoretto ; quit it in the same manner.

Statues of thfe four Evangelists, The surrounding country is rich

by Foncelli ; a celebrated Cru- in villas ; and that called Marlid,

feifix, called the F&fn Santo; fine on the Way to the Baths of Lucca.

Painted Glass Windows, and h partibularly merits notice : as it

bekutifUl inlaid marble t^avementj was built by the Princess Elise, is

The Chieea di S*. Maria deit fhrnished with peculiar elegance,

Utnilth contains a good Picture, and stands in a beautiftil garden^.

hf Titian. The Chiesa di S. F6n- The road from Lucca to this Villa,

ziano is ornamented with two a distance of between four and

Paintings hy Piefro LombaTdo. ^vfe miles, is excellent ; and hence

'the Patazio PuMic6, built by to the Bagni-caldi, (about eight

Ammannato and Filippo Giuvdra> miles,) equally good : it winds al^

contains Pdntings by Lucca (Ji- most constantly by the side of the

ordano, Albert Diirer, Guertelno, Serchio J and is cut through rocks

&c. Th^ Thmtte is small, but tlothed with olives and chestnuts,

pfl^tty; and remains of fA«? undent and adorned with convents, villas.

Amphitheatre are disdnvetable on and cottages. Nothing can be

Hie spot callM PHgi6ni veechie, more romantic than tnis drive^

The police of Lucca has long and, on the way, are three extra-

beeii famed for its excellence. Th« ordinary Bridges : the first con^

Ch) The Empress Maria-Louisa visited this and tlien, with great rrinetanee, went .Jkway.

ViflA. ndt many years since ; slept here^ and Her S«n's Bast is at Marlia « ••d, if Uto

ordered every thing to be in readiness for her him» he mnst hav« a counteftatioe repiet»

tie^rtnre at four e'deck the next nerning : with sense and animatiwt, and oearing r

she, however, lingeited in the MnrUa-gallery, «tnmg reMmhlaace to h»s rattoer. (apparently loet m ti&ovght,) tiU lea o*^ock<

m BAGNI DI LUCCA. . [Ch, V.

sisting of two immense arches, not where, daring the season, there

in a straight line with each other, is a ball every Sunday night,

but formmg, in the centre, a con- These Baths, therefore, to persons

siderable angle : neither do these very fond of society, must be an

arches support a level road ; on eligible summer situation. At the

the contrary you ascend one arch Bagni della Villa there are several

and descend it again: you then gowi lodging-houses; some of

come to an angle of flat ground ; which accommodate two or three

after which you ascend the other fajnilies, others only one : and

arch, and descend that, till yoM here the mother of the Princess

reach a smaller arch, which brings Elise used to reside *. At tKe

you to the opposite shore of the Ponte- Seraglio, near the Bagni-

Serchio. The height of this Bridge, caldi, there are lodging-houses;

judging from the eye, seems but these, generally speaking, are

nearly equal to that of Augustus inhabited by persons of the second

at Nami. The second Bridge is rank.

similar to the first ; but the third. The usual Promenade here is -Qvrhich consists of only one large between the Bagni della Villa and arch, is by far the loftiest; and, the Ponte- Seraglio, on a dusty according to oral tradition, was road ; while a delightful drive, the work of the Devil : who seems made by the Government, under to have been, in the opinion of the the wood on the opposite side of Italians, a great architect ; for the river, is. neglected, every extraordinary building is The Season commences with attributed to him. Other accounts, July, and ends with August; however, say, these Bridges were though June and September are erected by the Countess Matilda, monUis better calculated for the soon after the year 1000. examination of this beautiful spot. The Bagfii'CalcU di Lttcca are which Ls one of the coolest sum- situated on the side of a romantic mer abodes of southern Italy, and picturesque mountain, thickly Provisions here are not exor- elothed with chestnut - woods ; bitant in price, even during the where, during summer, the walks season : but good table-wine and are delightful. The Bagni della good butchers' meat, except veal, Villa are in the plain, near the are difficult to procure ; and fruit, banks of the Lima ; and the Prin- except Alpine strawberries, cher- cess Elise, by making a fine road jies, and wild raspberries, is neither to these Baths, and inducing her venr fine nor very plentiful ^. own family to frequent them, con- Lovers of botany should visit, verted a secluded village into a during the month of June, the gay public place. At the Bagni- Prato Fiorito, near these Baths ; caldi there is one lodging-house which is, at the above-named which accommodates from twelve time, enamelled with a larger to fourteen families ; another number and a greater variety of which accommodates three fami- flowers than fall to the share, per- lies ; several small lodgings ; a haps, of any other spot existing \ coffee - house, and a cassino ; The best way of seeing this garcfen

(0 The best apartment in the hoase of the (ft) Lowe, dealer in wines, spirits, teas,

Siipsora I^na, at the Bagni della ViUa, was groceries, Knrlish haberdashery, &c. has a

let in 1817 for thirty sequins a month : the shop here, during summer,

first flo<Jr in the house of Sig. G. B. del Chi- (/) Tradition reports that, on this emi-

' appa for twenty-eight seouins a month; and nence, there once stood a temple dedicated to

the second floor for eighteen or twenty se- .Ssculapius ; whose priests are supposed to

Suins. Casa-Ambrogio, Casa-Nobile, Casa- have cultivated round the edifice a large

lonvisi, and Casa-Rossi, are good lodging- number of flowers, which chance has perpe-

houses ; the last is that in which the Mother tuatad to the present day. of the late Sovereign formerly lived.

Ch.V.] BAiGNI M LTJCCA. 125

of Flora is to set out at an early people : the little land they possess hour, going by Coltrone, and re- is cultivated with the utmost care, turning by Monte -Villa, near and in the neatest manner; but does which several of the chestnut- not yield sufficient food for the trees are of so extraordinary a numerous inhabitants of this part size, that they would be fit sub- of the Duchy of Lucca j who are, jects for landscape-painters to stu- therefore compelled, like many dy. The modes of conveyance to other natives .of the Apennine, to the Prato Fiorito are various: live chiefly on bread made of chest- ponies and donkeys may be easily nuts; and when these fail, the procured; but persons in general consequence is dreadful: as was prefer being carried by Portantini, exemplified lately, when hundreds of whom* tiiere is a considerable perished from want ; while those number at the Baths : three men who survived had no sustenance are requisite for each chair ; and but beans boiled with grass, and their usual pay is five pauls a herbs collected on the mountains : man, with bread, common wine, and yet there was no rioting, no and cheese of the country for din- murmuring, ho complaint — the fa- ner, wherever the party like to mishing peasants prayed to Heaven stop ; which is generally at the for relief, and awaited with resig- foot of the Prato Fiorito, there nation the approach of better day?, being, in this place, a spring of The vices and crimes which dis- good water. grace more opulent countries are

Another pleasant excursion may httle known amongst these pea- be made in the same manner, from sants, whose probity and piety are the Bagni della Villa to Ponte Ne- equally exemplary ". ro : the best way of going is to The mode of cultivating this part cross the Lima on the Ponte of the Apennine is beautiful : at Nuovo, keeping on the far side of the commencement of each ascent the river the whole way ; and then vines are dressed on terraces cut in returning by Palleggio ; as that the side of the hill; wheat being village, together with the hamlets sown between every two irows of of Coccigha and Cosoli di Val di vines :• above these there fVequently Lima, form a beautiful and most is an olive-garden ; and! on the romantic prospect. The party more elevated parts of the hill are should dine near this spot; and chestnuts.

then go back to the Baths by the Mountains are sold here, not by

Palleggio side of the river, as far measurement, but from a calcula.-

as the wooden bridge of La Fab- tion respecting the number of sacks

brica, where they should cross of chestnuts uiey usually produce,

to the other side. A Guide well The landlord receives two-thirdsr

acc^uainted with the country is re- of the chestnuts which are col-

quisite for this excursion, and may lected, and half of the other crops^

be procured at lie Baths. The richer grounds in the plain

Loiano, likewise, from its singu- produce hemp, from which mudi

lar^situation, is worth> visiting. coarse cloth, and some of a finer

The peasantry of these moun- sort, is manufactured ; and every

tains are an honest and industrious peasant has a stock of silk- worms °.

(m) The Rector of the parish ia which the a silk, for their own wear, from the bags of Bagni di Lucca are situated, told some Kng- those silk-worms which are allowed to work lish TraveUers, that, after a residence of their way out, in order to produce eggs for the twenty years among his parishioners, who ensuiing ]^ear. The costume of the inferior amounted to above eight hundred persons, he peasants is neat ; and the wives and daughtera had never heard of the commission of one of the farmers are, on festival davs, hand- theft, neither had he heard of more than three ' aomely dressed when they go to cburpn, or children bom out of wedlock. elsewhere ; but this finery is laid by, the mo-

(») The female peasants often manufacture roent they return home.

Wheat U DsuaQ^r out about Mid- larly Mnde, straight, andWeU-paYed

summev» and immediately oarried streets ; palaoes* yfHc\x announee

off the ^elds ; which are, on the magnifieence ; and a venerable

same day, sown with Indian com } Tusean-^Gothic Cathedral ; hut the

and this comes up in a vf^V» and City looks tOQ large ibr its inhabit

h iit to be cut in October, In tants (said to be onJy ten thousand),

many places rows of Indian com, and therefore has a gloomy ap*

apd IVench beans, called scarlet pearance. It was famous among

runners, are planted alternately; the Anpient^ for the defeat of

the former serving as a support to Catiline ; ^d, in modem times,

the latter. the factions of the Guelphs an4

Between the Baths of Lucca and Qhibelline^ have rendered it no

the City are several villas, with less remarkable. The situation of

gardens possessing shady walks; Pistoja ig cool; the air healthy;

a comfort seldom found m south-* the country ^uithil ; and the pro*

em Italy : and the owners of these visions are cheap and excellent,

habitations are usually glad to let Good organs^ cannon, and iiiuae

them to respectable tenants, &01Q kets, are made at Pistoja, Tho

May till the end of September. best inn ip jl Sole^

Having traversed the beautiful From Pistqja the road proceeds

and highly-cvdtivated plain of Luc- to Prato and Florence; leaving,

pa, adorned with forest-trees, from on the rights the Royal YUla of

which hang festoons of yines in Poggio-a-Cajano, whose founda?

every direction, the road passes tions were laid by Leo X : and this

through Pescia, a small episcopal Villa merits notice, Irom its Una

City at the base of the Apennine, situation, and bepause it is embeU

and. peculiarly situated amidst lished with the works of Andrea

mountains cultivated tp their sum- del Sarto.

mits, and covered with villages. The country between Pist^a

churches, and castles ; the Epii^- and Florence may, witli truth, be

copal Palace here looks handsome ; called the richest and best eultir

and near this Town are the Baths vated garden in Tuscany ; and tha

of Monte- Catini. lofty hedges of vines climbing up

The road, to the end of the Luc- forest trees, and forming them-

ehese territories, is excellent ; and selves into magnificent festoons 09

thence to Pistoja paved, and good, each side of the road, present tha

The country between Pescia and appearance of an immensely ex?

Pistoja is bold and romantic ; and tensive gsdlery, decorated for a

the latter City finely placed on the ball.

side of the Apennine, near the The road 6*00^ Pistoja to Flo-*

hver Ombrone, contains particu- renee i@ good.

m

eg^^TER yi.

SIEN4. AND ROMH.

^mVfirvm Wht99» t» Mm^ tlnougli aieDa^J)ea««i»(|«i of Omi Ust>n»ine4 city Mditi f Svii9n%-rIUdi«»l8i»i— VitefW-T-Tewliff C, Y, Mj|rinipius-T,PwtcMoUe^N|k»oivi*|k S«p^lr chra-^JnI^nk Tar^Ot^^j^c^ro of tha PomitU— Portu ^9l Popglf^^Rome— Mai' »Tifrw Qli^iate — Wat^r convey^ daily ta the ancient city — Si^e aw4 popuUtiQ^a of ^ttoT-Siz« of the qiodem 9ity:— Society — ExcaYatiou.9— Foro-Roipano — Colosseo — ^^tco di Costantino-r Chies?^ dli S. Teodoro-T-ArcQ di Settimlo Severe in Velabro — Chiesa di 9. Qeorgio in Velabro — ^Arco di Giano Quadrifronte — Lake of Jaturna — Cloaca Maxima-^Ghiesa di 9, Ifaria in Coamedin— Tempio di Vesta— Tempio di Fortnna Virilis— Pala»«o de' Oesari-^ CiMti^ Maximna-^Cfatesa di S. Gvegorio sul Monte-Celio—Tnraie di Tito<^S«tte Sal»^ Cia«sa di a, Mairtino in l^ontft^-di S. Plctro in Vineoli-Tdi 9. MarU dell« VavMll**^ S. §t«|»90 II«t9lidQ~OMi8k of thft Piaxsa del PQp«le— 0tfttnw an^ OUUvk •f Ifot^- f;^yi|\l(H:-Ckiesa di «. Bei^iisdc^i S. Mi^rift deg^U An^^eU— The Pope'9 OitCeUai^ PiardinQ 4^ Sallusto— rQbel^k of S. Ma,^a Ma^giore— Colmpn— Ba9iUca— Obelisl^ of 9. Giovanni in Latera^no — 3attii^t.erio di Coetantino^^Pa^lica di S. QioYan^i in I<atenMio— Scala Santa — Triclinium — Amphitheatre Castrense — Basilica di S. Croce in Gerus^lemm^ —Temple called that of Venus and Cupid— Claudian Aqueduct— Chi^a di S. Biblana-^ Tempio di Minerva -Medica — Arco di Gallieno — Remains of Aqueducts— Chiesa di S. Prassede-^Campidoglio— Tarpeiaa Rock— Favissae-^hiesa di 8. Ifaria d'Araoeli— di 8. 3l^ietro in Oarcere— ralaszo del Beaatore— Palazzo de' Oanaerratori-^Museo-Capitolino^iv ^txaTpio di Pallf4e-rTei«iiiQ e Foro di Kerva^J^r^t « C^loani^ Trv^ana— M^nsoleo di (X ^oblijc^tts S^bulos-!— Dogant^ Poii||tifief^ — Obelisk of Monte<Ci^>r^o— Coloanfi Ant^qina-rr ^i^\isQleo d'AR£psto — Mausi^l^-Adriano — Tempio del Sole — Baths of Con^taatine— Obelisk of S. Ms^ria sopra Minerva—Chi^st^ di 8; Maria aopra Minerva — C^ss^ni^tense Library-^ Pantheon — Bagni d'Agrippa — Teatro di Pompeo — Piazzfi-Navona — Chiesa diS. Agnese — Teatro di Marcello — Prison of the Decemviri — Portico d' Octavia — Tempio d' Esculapio— Chiesa di S. Cecilia in Trastevere — Basilica di S. Maria in Trastevere — Fountain — Chiese di 8. Prisca — di 8. Sabina— di S. Alessio — ^Monte-Testaeeio— Sepolcro di Cajo Cestio*^ Tenna di Caracalla-;— Sepolcco de* Scipionir-Porta 8. debasti^?»o— Basilica di 8. Sebaa- tiano ^lle Catacoi^be — Ceiskio di Roxnolo — Sepolpvo di CecUia Metella— Public Ustria* — Scen^ of combat Vtweea the Horatii and Coriatii— Basilica di S. Paolo — Chiesa di 8. Paolo alle tre Fon^ne^£xcavatk>ns — Chiesa di S. Urbano alia CafEArella-^Fontana dellf Dea Egeria— Tempio di Redicolo — Porta-Pia : Chiesa di S. A|fnese — Chiesa di S. Cos- tanza — Hippodrome — Villa Faonte — Ponte Lamentano — Tomb of Meneaius Agrippa — Mons Sacer — Porta di S. Lorenzo; Basilica di S. Lorenzo — Porta Maggiore; ancient Temples at the Tor de* Schiavi — Porta S. Giovanni — ^Aqueducts— Temple of Fortun» llvlcebris — Farm calkd Roma Veeohia— ^Gates not already mentioned — ^Walla of Rome-^ Bridges not already meatioaed.

IfHB road from Flox^jiee through^ Ppggibonsi** to Siena and Radico- ffim, was always toler^^bly good* ^pugh mountainous^; and has^ yecently b^en so much improved, Ihat some of tho steepest hills are. 90W avoided.

Siena, formerly called Sezia MU<^ in honour of Caesax, is; by several

authors supposed to have been an ancient town of Etruria ; while others attribute its foundation to the Gaulsi who marched to Rom^ under the command of Brennusi. It stands on the acclivity of a tufp mountain ; or^ perhaps, more pro- perly speaking, the crater or an extinct volcano; and on<?e con*

'(0) Poggiboasi oaataias totoxably good ians 1 U tec^e Boiso^ and tii« Jibenga. deUa

CoroAa,; ^ laUe^ is ti\e l^t of the tw<;f

128 • ' SIENA. [Ch.VI.

tained a hunored thousand inha- Cities once in alliance with Siena ;

bitants; though its present popula-. namely, the Elephant of Rome

tion does not amount to a fifth part with a castle on its back — ^the

of that number. The buildings are Lions of Florence and Massa — ^the

handsome, and the streets airy; Dragon of Pistoja— the Hare of

but many of them so much up and Pisa — ^the Unicorn of Viterbo — ^the

down hiiil as to be scarcely practi- Goose of Orvieto— the Vulture of

cable for carriages. The wine, Volterra — ^the Stork of Perugia —

water, bread, meat, and fruits, are the Ljmx of Lucca— the Horse of

excellent ; tiie upper classes of Arezzo — and the Kid of Grossetto.

persons well educated, pleasing. Here also is the She-wolf of Siena,

and remarkably kind to Foreigners ; borne in memory of Romulus and

and the Tuscan language is said Remus. This work appears to

to be spoken here m its utmost have been executed about the year

perfection. 1400. The Pavement of the Area

Some remains of the Old Walls under the Cupola, and that before

of Siena are discoverable near the the High- altar, representing Abra-

Church of S. Antonio ; and several ham's intended Sacrifice of his

ancient grottoes, cellars, subterra- Son, are particularly celebrated ;

nean aqueducts, ^., excavated and the lafter is attributed to Mec-

under the mountain, merit notice, carino. The art of paving in this

T?ie Roman Gate is much ad- beautiful way, or, more properly

mired. speaking, of representing figures

The Cathedral, which occupies in black and white marble thus the site of a temple dedicated to exquisitely, is now lost. Near the Minerva, is a master-piece of Tus- entrance of the Choir are four large can-Gothic architecture, incrusted Frescos by Salimbeni. The Chigi- without and within with black and Chapel contains a Copy, in Roman white marble : it was erected about Mosaic, of a painting by Carlo the year 1250; but, in 1284, the Maratta; a Statue of theMagda- original front was taken down, and lene, by Bernini ; and three other that which now stands commenced Statues, by his scholars. TTie by Giovanni, Pisano, and finished Chapel of S. Giovanni contains a by Agostino and Agnolo, celebrated Statue of that Saint by Donatello ! sculptors of Siena. Near the great This Cathedral is adorned with door are two Vases for holy water ; Painted Glass Windows, executed the one executed by Giacomo della in 1549; and Busts of all the Quercia, the other an Antique, Popes, down to Alexander III: found at the same time with the among these formerly was the Bust Graces ; and both these vessels of Pope Joan ; with the following contain Marble Fishes, so well done inscription under it: ** Johannes that they appear to be swimming. VIII, Fannina de Angliee,"" The Pavement is reckoned one of The Library, or Sacristy, is now the most curious works of art in stripped of all its books, except Italy; and consists of Scripting some volumes of Church Music, Histories, wrought in Mosaic. The well worth notice, on account of story of Moses was designed by the Illuminations with which they Beccafumi, sumamed Meccarino, are decorated : here, likewise, is a and executed by various artists, celebrated antique Group, in mar- about the middle of the sixteenth ble, of the three Graces, which was century. The story of Joshua is found under the Church ; and on by Duccio di Buoninsegna, Sa- the Walls are Frescos representing nese. In this Pavement are Hke- the principal transactions of the wise represented the Emblems of Life of Pius II, by Pinturicchio,

Chi VI.] SIENA— BUONCONVENTO, ^ 1 29

after the designs of Raphael ; who are Works of Salimbeni, Casolani,

is said to hare painted the first ^c. The Theatre makes a part of

Fresco on the rinit. A fine mo- this Palazzo, and is large and com-

dern Statue, by Kicci, ornaments modious.

this apartment. The Fountain constructed in

The Tower of the Palazzo delta 1 1 93, is so famous for the quantity

Signoria, commonly called del and ciuality of its water, as to be

Martgia, and built by A^olo and mentioned in the Inferno of Dante :

Agostino, in 1326, is a fine piece indeed, there are few cities placed

of Architecture. in so elevated a situation as Siena,

The Churches of the Spedcde di which can boast such abundance of

S. Maria delta Scala-~the Agoeti- excellent water : and moreover, the

niani — S, Martino di Provenzano climate, for persons not afflicted

— S, Quirino, and del Carmine ; with weak lungs, is wholesome at

^xidthe Church of the Camaldo- all seasons of the year — ^a recom-

lensi, on the outside of the Town, mendation which does not belong

contain good Pictures. to many cities of Italy p.

The Church of S, Lorenzo is fa- This Town possesses acelebrated mous for an ancient Roman In- Universi^, several Academies, va- scription, and a Well, at the bottom luable Libraries, Museums, ^. ; of which is a sort of Fountain, and gave birth to Gregory VII, supported by Columns apparently and Alexander III, two of the of high antiquity : and the Dome- greatest Sovereigns who ever filled nican Church contains a Painting me Papal throne \ of the Madonna with our Saviour The Environs of Siena appear in her arms, executed by Guido di to contain several Villas delight- Siena in 1221, nineteen years be- fully calculated for summer habi* fore the birth of Cimabue. tations ; but TraveUers should be

The Palazzo degli Eccelsi con- especially careful not to fix them-

tains the .Sala deUa Pace, oma- selves near the Maremma : a con-

mented with Paintings which repre- siderable tract of country, situated

sent, on one side, the Recreations of near the sea, and extremely un-

Peace ; and, on the other. Tyranny, wholesome now ; though here-

Cruelty, Deceit, and War ; all done tofore remaiicably populous,

by Ambrogio, Sanese, in 1338 — ^the Beyond Siena, some leagues to

Sala di Consiglio, where are Paint- the left of the high-ro£^, lies

ings relative to the histoiy of Siena, Chiusi, the ancient Clusium, near

by.the same master, and other sub- the Lake of Chiana, formerly C/a-

jects,byBartoli — ^the Sala di Balia, nius: but this City, once Porse-

omamented with Paintings which na's Capital, is at present thinly

represent the Life of iUexander peopled, on account of its noxious

III ;* and are highly valuable be- air.

cause they exhibit the costume of Buonconvento, pleasantly situ*

the age in which they were done ; ated on the Ombrone, about fifteen

(they are of Giotto's School) — ^the miles fi-om Siena, is likewise in-

Sala del Consistorio, embellished fected with Ma f aria; and here

with some of Beccafumi's finest the Emperor, Henry VII, was poi-

Frescos, and the Judgment of So- soned by receiving the sacrament

lomon, by Luca Giordano ; with from a Domenican monk ',

several other apartments, in which San-Quirico, placed in a healthy

(jp) Siena boasts another reeommendation, deiArmesd^Anglet&rret and. the AqmiaNeras

it is exempt from gfnats; as, generalljr speak- the latter is very comfortable,

ing, are all the elevated parts of this coun- (r) Here are two tolerable Inns, The Aj-

try. hergo deUa gratuP Europ<h ao<i '** CavatlQ

iq) The hest Isns at Siena are, The Hotel Inglese,

K

130 BADICOFANI— BOLSENA, 4f^. tCh.VI;

air, amidst olive-trees and vine- ther, to avoid the'pestilential atmo-': yards, contains a small Tuscan- sphere of the latter plaxje". Gothic Church, the Nave and Not far distant from S. Lorenzo- Choir of which merit notice; a nuovo is Bolsena, supposed to Palace belonging to the Chigi stand upon the site of the ancient family ; a curious Well, opposite to VoUinium; one of the principal the palace, and an ancient Square Cities of Etruria ; and whence the Tower, supposed to be of Roman Romans, 265 vears before Christ, origin*. are said to have removed twg

Near the mountain of Radico- thousand statues to Rome ", Here fan! the soil is volcanic, and the are remains of a Temple, supi . sed country wild and desolate : the to have been dedicated to the ^ yd- road, however, is excellent ; the dess Narsia ; £truscan Ornaments, ascent hye miles in length, and the which adorn the Front of the pa- descent the same. Hadicofani, rochial Church ; and, opposite to -which rises two thousand four this Edifice, a Sarcophagus of Ro* hundred and seventy feet above the - man workmanship. In the envi- level of the Mediterranean sea, rons are remains of an Amphi- exhibits, on its summit, large heaps theatre ; together with an immense of stones, supposed to be the mouth quantity of broken cornices, capi- of an extinct volcano. The post- tals of pillars, ancient mosaics, q*e* house, not far distant from this Bolsena, now an unimportant vil- spot, is a good Inn ; and the little la^e, is seated on a magnificent Fortress near it was once called Lake, of the same name, anciently impregnable, though now falling called Locus ViUsinus, and thirty- to decay. This is the frontier of five Roman miles in circumference: Tuscany ; and at the fbot of the this Lake contains two small Is- mountain, on the way to Torre- lands; both of them inhabited; oelli, the road traverses a torrent, and said, by Pliny, to have floated sometimes dangerous after rain, in bis time ; though now they are Beyond TorrecSli is Ponte-Cen- fixed : it is supposed to be the cra- tino, the first Village of the Ecde- ter of a volcano. Nothing can siastical State : this countiy is em- exceed the beauty of the views in bellished with woods, and a fine tiiis neighbourhood ; but the air is bridge, thrown across the Paglia. unwholesome.

To the next Town, Acquapen- Near Bolsena stands Orvieto»

dente, the approach is particularly celebrated for the excellence of its

beautifiil : this was the Aquula of wines, and containing a handsome

the ancients ; and derives its ap- Tuscans Gothic Cathedral, adorned,

peUation from the water-falls m on the outside, with Sculpture, by

its vicinity \ Nicoolo, Pisano ; and within, by a

Hence, the road traverses a vol- Painting of Signorelli's which Mi- canic plain to San Lorenzo-nuovo ; chael Angelo particularlv admired, a remarkably well-constructed. Between Bolsena and Montefias- clean, and pretty Village ; which cone, the road passes close to a possesses the advantages of whole- remarkable Hill, covered with re- some air and ^ood water ; and was gular prismatic basaltine Columns, built Inr Pius V I, that the inhabit- most of them stancfing obliquely, ants of what is now called San Lo- and a considerable length out of renzo-rovinato might remove hi- the ground: indeed, the whole

(0 The best Inn here, // £o/e, contaias Pagsport.

tolerable beds. (ti) Inn, the Post-house^ and tolerably good.

(0 At Acquapendente every Passport mast (v) VAigle dCor is the best Inn at Bbl^eiia, be examined and sealed by the Police Officers ; tliough unfit for a sleeping-place, who demand, in consequence, one paol per

Ch. VI.] VITERBa-RONOIGLIONE, ^. Ul

ooimtry, so to iia MoQteilascane, as tradition r^ixnrta, a Cil^ o&ce

exhibits ipocks of basalt, interspers* stood.

ed with forest scenery : and, near Nine leases firom Viterbo, but

the above-named HiU, is an ancient not on the mgh road, is Coroflto ;

Tomb ; erected, according to the remarkable for the number of

inscription it bears, b^L.Canuleius, £trusean antiquities which haire

for himself and his mmily. been, and still are to be found m

Montefiascone, a finely situated^ its vicinity : and one league north

though not a handsome town» pro* of Cimieto is a HUl, called Civita-

ducea such excellent wine, &at a Turdiino, upon which the aaeieBl

German Travell^, a prelates died Tarquinium^ (one of the tw^Ye

firom drinking it to excess ^. great Cities of Etruria) is supfiosed

Between Montefiascone and Vi* to have stood, Sevei^ little emi*

terbo the country is dreary ; and nences lie between this hill and ihit

near the latter Town, on the right, town of Cometo : and those whieb

is a Lake of hot water, the ex< have been opened exhibit subtof*

halations from which are sulphu- raneous. chambers cut in the tufo,

reous. lined with stucco* and filled viiish

Viterbo, supposed to have been Etruscan Vases and Sarcophagi

the ancient Metropolis of Etruria, Ronciglione is situated near &

called Voituma, is situated at the picturesque valley, in a barren soil;

base of Monte-Cimino, anciently where agriculture seems almost

Mon$-Ciminus; and eaicom|»assed wholly neglected; and where the

by walls flanked with towers, which Camx>agna di Roma begins to feel

give it, at a distance, a splendid the influence, during hSt weather»

appearance : it contains about thir-> of that wide-^[tteadLng and incona*

teen thousand inhabitants, is well prehensible i>est. Mat aaria^,

built, well paved, and embellished Near Monterosi (M<mi Eroim}

with handsome Fountams and a is a sheet of Lava ; not far henoe^

fine Gate, erected by Clement the Loretto and Siena roads jonv

XIII ^ falling into the Vta-Cama; and

The road firom Viterbo to Ronei- beyoiSi the junction of these roads,

fidione traverses part of the Monte* is a Lake, which emits an olfeosive

Cimino, amidst flowers, odori&rous smeU ■.

herbs, oaks, chestnuts* and other Baceano, placed in a peculiarity

forest- trees ; and at the base of noxious cdr, is only two posts from

this mountain, neaar RondgEone, is Rome ; and frx>m the hiU above

the Lake of Vico, anciently LacW" Baceano, S. Peter*s may be diseo*

CimintM, encircled with richly vered; while m a valley, on the

wooded hills, and forming a beau- left, near Storta, may be seen a hat^

tiful basin of near three miles in ruined Castle, supposed to stand

circumference, said to have been upon the Site of the ancient Citfti*

the funnel of a volcano ; and where, del of Veii •.

(w) The Inn at ]^ontefiascone is on the out" niusas reports, " that thig City- ttood on »

si4e of the walls of that Town, and yery high and steep rock, about an hundred atadea.

oomfortable. from Rome ; and was as lar^ as Athens, and

(jp) At Viterbo, The ^<iii^a IferOt is 4 very the stron^st place belimging to the Etrs*

good Ian- rians." Jbutropius fixes it at the distaaoe of

(y) Ronciglione conf&ins two Inns, The eighteen miles from Rome. Llyv confirma

J^eone ^Qro^ and The HAel de$ trot* Mawres i this opinion : and Zaaehi aaseits, that it wa»

the former is tolerable; and both, bein^ whole- situated in the wood of Baceano and Monte-

somely situated, are therefore preferable as lupoli, to the right of the VichCassia; adding,

sleeping placeft-to the inns nearer Rome, all of that he saw, on this spot, fragments of aneient

which are infected by MoT aria. walls, columns, &o., and even tracedCamil-

(*) The Ian near the Lake, ftt Monterosi, lns*8 celebrated Mine, or Ci«ioi»/«, with the

is a tolerably good one« difi^rent pits by means of which hts aoldierg

(a) Tte Site of Veii haa been mnoh die* entered the Citadel,

pated by antiquaries. Dionysius of Halicar- K ^

ua PONTE-MOLLE--ROME. [Ch.VX.

No country can be more dreaiy, by Bernini) derives its appellation nor more nedected, than that which from its vicinity to the Church of liesbetweenBaccanoandthePonte- S. Maria del Popolo. Molle : but,- from the heights near Rome has suffered so materially this Bridge, Rome presents herself from volcanic eruptions, earth- to view; gradually expanding as quakes, and the frequent ravages the road descends to the banks of of invading armies, that even the the Tiber. surface of the ^ound on which it

Between Storta and the Ponte- originally stood is completely alter-

Molle is the Tomb of P. Vihius ed; insomuch that on digging deep,

Marianus. it is common to discover columRs,

The Ponte-Molle, ancientiy Pom statues, fragments of edifices, and Mtlvitts, was built by M. iEmilius sometimes even the pavement of ScaiuTis ; and is celebrated for the the ancient City, from twenty to vision seen here by Constantine; thirbr feet under ground. Thestu- and the victory gained by thatPrince pendous common-sewers, through over the Tyrant Maxentius, who which the offal of Rome was con- was drowned in the river near this veyed into the Cloaca-maocima, are spot ; there are, however, scarce many of them choked up ; and the any remains of the ancient Bridge, Cloaca-maxima itself is in bad except its foundation. order* : this causes pestilential air;

Tlie approach to Rome is by the and the workmen who, by dig^ng

Via-Ca8sia^\ but, after passing deep, Open apertures to the ancient

the Ponte-Molle, the modem road common sewers, frequently suffer

nearly follows the direction of the from the putrid effluvia. In the

ancient Vic^Flaminia, between the neighbourhood of Rome all the

Fincian and the Marian Hills. Be- land is ill cultivated and worse

yond the Ponte-Molle is the Naso- drained ; so that fogs and noxious

nian Sejmlchre, constructed in a vapours prevail there during night:

rock, which overlooks the road, by it likewise abounds with sulphur,

Q. Nasonius Ambrosius, of the arsenic, and vitriol : hence, there-

Ovidian Family. Near the Porta fore, in some measiure, perhaps,

del Popolo, toward the Porta-Pin- may arise that fatal Mat aria which

ciana, is the Muro-torto, a part of never affected ancient Rome ; be-

the City-wall which dedines from cause these minerals were either

its perpendicular;- and adjoining to unknown to its inhabitants, or

this, is another part of the Wall, suffered to remain buried in the

supposed to have been the Sepul- bowels of the earth. The tempe-

chre of the Domitii, and the Depo- rature of the seasons also seems

sitoiy of the ashes of Nero " . changed ; for Horace gives us to

Nothing, of its kind, can be more understand that, in his time, the

magnificent than the entry into streets of Rome, during winter,

Rome through the Por/ac^e/i'qpo/o; were filled with ice and snow : and

where originally stood a Gate erect- it appears, from Juvenal, that to

ed by Aurelian,. when he enclosed see tne Jiber frozen over was not

the Campus Martins. This Gate, uncommon : whereas, at present,

or one conti^ous to it, was called it is extraordinary for snow to lie

Porta-Flamtnia .• the present Gate three days in any part of the City ;

(built by Yignola, and ornamented and, respecting the Tiber, no per-

• ' (&) Three roads led from Rome to Lom- on the Pincian Hill, extended to the site of

bardy ; the Flaminian along the Adriatic ; the this Sepulchre.

Awreliait along the Mediterranean; and the (<Q Seyeralof the common-tewers have been

CatsioM between these two, through the inte- recentlf repaired, by order of Leo XII; ^

rior of the country. oiroumstanco likely to dei;;reM6 JUioT aria* (c) Tht Oaxdens of the Pomitian Family,

Ch.VI.] ' HOME. 13S

son recollects to have seen it fro- Acqua-Felice ; and that of the zen. These circumstances, added Acqua-PaxUina : tiie first was re- to the want of trees to agitate and paired by Paul IV , and discharges improve the .air, concur to account itself into the Fontana di Trevi; •for the present unhealthiness of the second comes from the neigh- some parts of Rome, and nearly bourhood of Palestrina, twenty- all its Campagna, during summer: two miles distant from Rome, and besides which, the mouths of the is one of the many works which do Tiber are choked with mud and honour to the reign of Sextus V, sand ; while its bed has been con- who expended a imllion of scudi in siderably narrowed by filth and repairing it: this Aqueduct dis* rubbish, thrown from the houses charges itself into the Fontana di situated on its banks'; so that a Termine. The third, which derives strong south wind often makes it its name from its restorer, Paul V, overflow, and inundate the City and is separated into two channels ; its environs. — Could this river be one of which supplies Monte-Gia- tumed into another channel, and nicolo, and the other the Vatican : the present bed cleansed and deep- it comes thirty miles ; and princi- ened, what an advantage mient pally discharges itself into the Rome derive in point of healthml- • Fountain near the Church of S, ness ; and what a harvest to Anti- Pietro-Montorio. quaiies might the river's bed af- Rome, during the reign of Va» ford • ! — So unwholesome now is lerian, was surrounded oy a wall, the Campagna di Roma in July said to have been near fifty Roman and Augaist, that, during the^e miles in circumference'; and the months, it is dangerous to sleep number of inhabitants, during its within twenty miles of the City : most flourishing state, was, by Rome itself, nowever, even at this some authors, computed at four season, is not usually visited by millions >. Modem Rome is not Mai' aria, either on the Corso, the seventeen Roman mDes in circum- Quirinal Hill, or the streets com- ference; and contains. Suburbs prised within ^e Rioni Monti, inclusive, scarce one hundred and Trevi, Colonna, Campo-Marzo, fifty thousand inhabitants : but re» Ponte, Parione, Re^ola, S. Eusta- duced as this ancient Mistress of cio, Pigna, and S.' Angelo : but at the world now is, in size and popu- this season the climate is oppres- lation, reduced too as her Papal sively hot ; though, during winter throne has been in wealth and and spring, temperate and de- power, still the matchless Frescos lightful. of Raphael, Michael Angelo, Da- The ancient Romans had Aque- niello da Volterra, Giulio Romano, ducts sufficient to convey daily to Annibale Caracci, Guido, Dome- the City eight hundred thousand nichino, Guercino, ^c, are unalien- tons of water : the three principal bly her's ; stiU the Master-pieces Aqueducts now remaining are, that ot Grecian Sculpture adorn her of the Acquor Vergine ; mat of the museums ; still her stately palaces,

(e) Besides sixty colossal stataes which City as in Villas not far distant : and this wall

adorned ancient Rome, her streets and forums of fifty miles in oircnmferenee might probably

were lined with porticos, supported by columns enclose the suburbs of Rome, which must,

of marble, and embellished with busts and judging from the remains now left, have been

statues innumerable ; and a large portion of very extensive.

these precious remains of antiquity is sup- (a) Tacitus says, the Emperor Claudius

posed to have been thrown into the Tiber, bo maae a lustrum, by which the number of inha-

numerous were the marble columns in Rome bitants was found to be sixty-eight classes,

that a tax was put upon them. consisting of one hundred and sixtyfour thou-

(/) The upper ranks of ancient Romans do saad each,

not appear to have reiided so much in the .

lU R6MB. fCh. VI.

mM^ chxanh^i beftolilbl fbuii* |^ter Tonani^; i^moved from fhft tuns, gigantio eolunms, sbipend- foundations of the Arches of Sep-* OQs obeiulai^ ftnd^ pe^less amphi^ timius Severus and Constantino theatre, entitle her to be called the the rubbish by vrhich they were moit magmftoent City of Europe, in some measure concealed, and'- «iid the unrivaUed Mistress of cleared away from the Temple of the Arts! — Som^ of her streets^ Peace an immense collection of however, ars ill paved and dirty I earth, which entombed nearly one* whik ruins - of inmiense edifices, third of its remains, which continually present them* The following will be ^und Hie fidres to view, give an impression most convenient way to visit the of melancholy to eveiy thinking Antiquities^, Churches, Palaces, spectator. 4^, best worth notice at Rome, The society at Rome is excel* and likewise to prevent Travellers lent; and the circumstance of from wasting theur time, andbur- eveiy man, whether foreigner or dening their memory, by a minute native, being permitted to live as survey of objects not particularly he pleases, without exciting won* interesting ; thereby, perhaps, de- der, conbributes essentially to ge* priving themselves of leisure to neral comfort. At Rome, too, examine those which merit se- every person may find amusement: dulous attention. But, with re- fer whether it be our wish to dive spect to the Antiquities, It should deep into classical knowledge, be remembered, that whoever whether arts and sciences be our wishes to see these wrecks of an- pmrsuit, or whether we merely seek cient splendour advantageously, for new ideas and new objects, the ought to visit them, for Sie first end cannot ftiii to be obtained in time, by the mild and solemn light this most interesting of Cities, of the moon ; which not only assi- where eveiy stone is an historian : milates with Men greatness, but — «nd though Rome has, in some throws every defect into shadow ; respects, suffered from her late leaving Imagination to supply every Hmers, the French, she is, gene* beauty, and array every object in nlly speakinff, obliged to them ; as its pristine garb of magnificence. they removed the earth with which FbrO'Romano K There were two time had buried part of the Colos-* kinds of Forums in Rome,— fbra Beum ; disencumbered the Temple Civilia, and Fbra Vencdia ; the of Vesta from the plaster-walls former serving as ornaments to the which destroyed its beauty >'j6xca* City, and likewise as Courts of vated the Forum of Traffei,^ the Justice ; the latter as Market- Baths of Titus, and the lower parts places. The Forum Romanum of the Temples of Fortune, and Ju* was of the first kind; and here

(K) The ensuing detcrif^tiob (rf the Antiuni- AbU>Aia6 e FfttaAtina. (13) Tempio di Remo.

tiM of Homo is ohlcflytftkta fhHH Oftoavsiiis (14) Ctotmufttioii of the VU Sacra toward

of Halicarnassas : heoanse he seens to have the Aroo Fabiano, from the angle of the Bali*

been the moxt celebrated ancient Antiquary, lica, near the T6rapio di Remo. (15) Altera*

as his opinions are adopted by Liyy, and other tions made in the Via Sacra when the Basilica

Xroaaft Biatoriani. wai erteted. (IS) Contihuation of the Via

(0 £xFLioaTioiv ov TBI NVMiRicAb Fi« SMta extending toward the Cftt>itol, hnd

oumsfl IN mt »LAlr or thi Fo»u« oroeting the spot where the Bteiliea WM

RoMAMUM. iteeted. (17) Areo di Tito* (18) Cella del

{%} Colon&a di Fooa. (7) Original Oite of th« ma 8aora Via. (3d) Quarter anciently eAlM

4Mtf|nu (8)Coinifio. (9) Curia. (10) Aroo Carinw. (84) Caput Vitt8aora. (B5) PiaMa

Fabiano. (11) Branch of the Via Saers lead* dell' Anlttatn Flario. (S6) Met* dttda&s.

ing to the Circus Maximus. (13) Tempio di («7) Ai^ di Coettetiao.

•1

I -1 ■ > y'//M////^<>

Ch.^.] ROMS. Hi

Itood the Coiditittlii iind the Ros-^ Villft-Boi^hele is Mid to h&Ye been

tra. The Coiiiitium was a large tI^ien^

Itportment^ foir a considerable pe- Tempio delta Concordia, Ad-^ ;

riod, 0]jeii at the toji ; it contained joining to the remains of the Por- '

the Tribunal, and Ivory Chairi tico S[ the TabtUarium, modem

whence the Chief-Mai^strate ad - excavations hAve disentombed the

ininistered justice. I'he Rostra base of an Edifice, supposed, fronl

was so called because this building inscriptions found among its rUins,

contained an Orators* PtQpit, ?ar« (and likewise from ancient ac

Aished with Beaks Of Vessels, taken counts of Rome) to have been the

. by the Romans, from ihe Peo- Temple of Concord, mentioned by

pie of Antium^ The Forum Ro* Plutarch, Dion, <f^. as situated be-

manum was oblong, and is sup- tween the Forum and the Capitol,

posed to have extended In length, near the Prisons, with its front

from the Chiesa della Consola- opposite to the Comitium. Such,

zione to that of S. Adriano ; and, precisely, is the Site of the Ruin

in breadth, from the three Columns, m question ; and* therefore, anti-

called the Temple of Jupiter Stator, auaries of the present day call it

to the Triumphal Arch of Septi- the remains of the Temple of Con-

mius Severus \ It was made by cord, raised by Furius Camillus,

Romulus and his Colleague, Ta- in consequence of the reconcilia-

tius "*, and surrounded with por* tion he effected between the Senate "*.

lieos and shops by Tarquinius Ais- and People of Rome. It was con-

cus : little, however, now remains sumed by fire, but rebuilt ; and

to be seen, except heap's of ruins, vestiges of the Cella may still be

and piles of vegetable earth ; the traced. In this Temple Cicero

immense accumulation of which convoked the Senate which con-

cannot be accounted for. The demned Lentulus and Ceth^gus,

Via Sacra f so called because, on the accomplices of Catiline, that spot, peace was made betweeti Tempio di Giove Tonante. This

Romulus and Tatius, and sacrifices beautiful Edifice was erected by

offered to the gods in consequence, Augustus, in gratitude for his es-

traversed the Forum Romanum, cape from lightning. Only three

from the side near the Oolos- Columns of the Portico *, with part

seum to the Arch of Septimius of the Entablature and Frieze, now

Severus ; and in tiie middle of this remain ; and on the last are sacri-

Forum was the Lacus'XIurtius ; ficial instruments in ^cw^o-n/two;

whence the fine Alto^rilievo in the namely, the Preeflculum, the Par

(K) thii-ing the early days of Rome, an toline Hill, cut down the wood, and made the

Orators' Ptxipit was erected in the centre of Forum where the Romans now hare a Mar-

fhe Fonun, near the Senate House : and after ket."— See Dionysius of Hamcarnassus. the Romans had conquered the maritime City (n) Rome is supposed to have been built in

ofAntium, and taken, from the vessels they the mouth of an extinct volcano : and this

found in that Port, bronze Ship-beaks, callea, opinion seems justified by the story of M. Cur-

in Latin, RoBtrOy the aforesaid Orators' Pulpit tius, and the account of the manner in which

-Was decorated with these spoils, and called, the Temple of Peace was destroyed. The

in consequence. The Rottra, Ceesar erected l^aeut Curiiui did not, however, according to

a second Pulpit, deoominated the new Rostra^ Dionysius of Halicarnassus, derive its name

in that part of the Forum nearest to the Vela- from the Roman Knight who, about 360 years

hrum. B. C, precipitated himself and his horse into

(/) A distance of about 790 feet oneway the yawning gulph which had suddenly opened

ana 600 the other. in the centre of the Forum ; but was so called

(m)*Mn consequence of the peace concluded because the Sabine general, Cnrtius, nearly

between Romulus and Tatius, they raised con- lost his life in thu I^ke, when the great bat-

jointiy, about the middle of the Vta Saera^ an tie occurred between Romulus and Tatius. Altar, on which they pledged themselves to Co) Vitruvius says, the Temple of Jupiter

observe their treaty. Tatius afterwards filled Tonans was adorned with a Portico tnpported

up great part of the marsh under the C»pi^ by thirty Columns.

/

13$ ROME. [Ch..VI.

tera, the Aspergillum, the Securis Caracalla and Geta. This Arch and Culter, together with the AU (of the Composite order) was ori- bogalerus, or white mitre, worn by ginally adorned with a Trimnphal the priests ofJupiter. The Columns, car, to which were attached Six which are made of Luna marble Horses : in the Car were t\yo Fi- fluted and adorned with Corinthian gures, supposed to have represent- Capitals, seem to have been ori- ed Caracsdla and Geta<»; and at ginally tinged with the Tyrian pur- the extremities of the Edifice were pie colour prevalent in every part four Statues of Soldiers, two on of Pompeii p. foot, and two on horseback. The

Tempio della Fortuna. Of this bassi-rilievi on this Arch record

Edifice, long mistaken for the Tem- the Victories" of Severus over the

pie of Concord, the Portico alone Parthians, and other uncivilized

remains ; and this Portico neither Nations : and toward the end of

faces the Comitium, nor is it very the third line of an Inscription still

near the Prisons. It consists, in visible, and throughout the whole

front, of six Ionic Columns of of the fourth line, the marble has

granite (whose bases and capitals evidently been pared away ; be-

are of white marble) with one Co- cause Caracalla, after having mur-

\axan on each side : they support dered Geta, effaced his name,

an Entablature and a Pediment, wherever it appeared, and substi-

and all vary in diameter ; which tuted other w<»rds instead.

circumstance induces a belief Chiesa di S. Adriano, This

that this Edifice must have Church, the Facade of which is

been restored with materials bor- ancient, though apparently built

rowed from other buildings. More- after the Arts began to decline,

over, the interior Frieze now re- was long supposed to stand on the

maining exhibits some ornaments site of the Temple of Saturn, (the

of excellent workmanship, and Treasury of the Roman Republic,)

others so inelegant as to savour mentioned by Dionysius of Hali-

strongly of the dark ages : and as camassus as having been erected

it appears evident that the Temple in the Street leading to the Capitol,

of Fortune, situated on the ascent about the time of the Consulate of

to the Capitol, was burnt during Titus Lartius ' : and as the Church

the reign of the Emperor Maxen- in c^uestion stands in the Street

tius, and rebuilt about the age of leading to the Capitol, there seems

C^onstantine, and likewise equally reason to suppose it occupies the

evident that the Temple of Fortune Site of the ancient IVeasury, before

stood very near that of Jupiter which Augustus, according to Ta-

Tonans, which the Portico in ques- citus, placed the Milliarium au-

tion does, antiquaries seem satis- reum, whence the distance to eveiy

fied that this Portico was the en- province was measured ; and whicn

trance to the Temple of Fortune. is said to have stood in the centre

Arco di Settimto Severe, erected of Rome •. Modem antiquaries, abouttheyear 205 of the Christian however, suppose the Temple of era, by the Senate and People of Saturn to have been erected close Rome, in honour of the Emperor to the Tarpeian Rock, near the Septimius Severus, and his sons. Temple of Fortune, and the Arch

(p) In the Fluting, near the Capitals, this to the Christian era, by the Consuls Anlus

colour may be plainly distinguished. Sempronius, and Marcus Minueius.

(jj) Probably the sons of the Emperor, be- (s) From this column, which, acoording to

cause he was prevented, by the gout, ifrom Dionysins of Halicamassus, stood nearly in

assisting in the triumphal procession. the centre of ancient Rome, the great roads

(r) I^y says, the Temple of Saturn was branched off in straight Unes to ftU parts of

consecrated in the year of Aome 49i, previous Italy.

jCkyi.] .ROME. 137

of Tiberius; and likewise suppose of an Edifice, called the Curia the Church of S. Adriano to stand Hostilia, or Hall dedicated to the on the foundations of the Basilica use of the Senate, are so placed, of Paulus iSmilius ; which Edifice, and likewise so far distant from according to some opinions, was these Columns, as to make it adorned with the Brazen Gate, now . doubtful whetiber thejr constituted removed to the Basilica of S. Gio- part of the Curiae which, it is to yanni in Laterano, and long thought be presumed, the ComiHum cer* to have originally belonged to the taiiuy did. Some persons suppose Temple of Saturn. they adorned a building called the

Colonnadi Foca, This Column, Gr^^co^tom, which was added to which probably made part of an an- the ComiHum^ in the time of Pyr- cient building, was erected, in the rhus, for the Reception of Ambas- seventh century, on itsT)resent site, sadorS; and which, having been by the Exarch Smaragdus, in ho- destroyed, was rebuilt by Antoni- iiour of the Emperor Phocas, whose nus Pms : but as ttie flutings of the statue of bronze gilt is said to have Coliunns in question have me same stood on the top of the Column. Tyrian purple tinge which is seen

Comizio. On the north side of in tiie Flutings of the Columns the Via Sacray near the Palatine belonging to the Temple of Jupiter H^, stand three beautiful fiuted Tonans, perhaps they were aU CorinUiian Columns of Pentelic erected about the same period '. marble, supporting fragments of a We might be in some measure finelyjworked Entablature, and long enabled to ascertain the site of the supposed to have been part of the Temple of Jupiter Stator, if we Portico of a Temple erected to Jtnew the spot where the old Gate Jupiter Stator*, by Romulus, on of the Palatium stood: for Livy the spot where he rallied his sol- speaks thus, when describing the diers who fled from the Sabines. battle between Hostus Hostilius Butthenowremainingpart of this and Mettius Curtius, (the former * Edifice appears to have been built commanding the Romans, the lat- when architecture had risen to a ter the Sabines,) which battle was much higher degree of perfection the cause of the erection of the than during the days of Romulus : Temple of Jupiter Stator. " No which circumstance, added to a sooner had Hostilius fallen, than considerable portion of the Fasti the Romans fled : they were re- Consulares having been found pulsed to t?ie old Gate of the PcUa- here, has induced antiquaries to Hum, Romulus, who had been think these beautiful ruins part of borne away by the tide of discom- theComitium ; especially as theTem- fitted soldiers, now stopped, raising pie ofJupiter Stator may be suppos- his arms toward Heaven, and ex- ed (according to the report of Dio- claiming; O, Jupiter, by thy di- nysius of Halicamassus) to have rection, under thy auspices, I stood on another spot, between the placed here the first stones of the Via Bacra and the Palatine Hill ». foundation of Rome I The Capitol In opposition, however, to the con- is already in the power of the Sa- jecture that these Columns, long bines ; they won it by a crime : denominated the Temple of Jupiter . they have now gained the Valley, Stator, were part of the ComtVtMm, and even menace this Palatium. it may be urged, that the remains O, preserve from our enemies the

(f) Stator (ermrv^X he who makes to stop latine Hill than are the remains of the Comi*

m stand. tium. -kt^^a:^:

(»)Dionysiu8 of Halicamassus describes the («) The Comitmm, accordmj to WarOini,

site of the Temple as being nearer to the Fa* ^ras finished by Augustus.

181

KOMI*

EciuVt

Sot coiuecfatdd tothdef Dispel CtiiU> Which ho\M towftrd ihd

e fean of the Romans t arrest OftTOtoL their disgraceful flight ! and here^ uMesa di S*. Matia LibdrfiM^,

in this very plaee, I pledge myself Falerius 8U})t)dses the Temple of

to erect a Temple to thee, under Vesta, erected by Numa, (afid

the name of Jupiter Stator; a wherethe Vestal virgins* guarded

Temple which shall serve as an the Sacred fire and the Po/^fum,)

eternal memorial of thy protection to have 'stood on, or near, the sit^

granted to Rome t — The Romans of this Chtirch : and in its vicinity,

stopped, as if th^ had heard the according to report, several sepul-

voice of a god. Curtius pursuing chral inscriptions have been found,

them .from one extremity of the apparently belonging to the tombs

Formn to the other, was already of Vestals, whose burial-place, dur-

near the Gate of the Palattum, ing their high office, was in a small

when RomuluS) at the head of a domain called the Sacred Grove,

band of intrepid warriors, attacked and appertaining to the Temple of

him : he fled ; and his horse, Vesta. It seems, however, more

alarmed by being followed, threw probable that the Church of 8*;

himself into a Bog, which had Maria Liberatrice stands on the

nearly proved fatal to his rider'." site of the SaCred Grove', than on

It appears, from this account, that the foundations of the Temple :

theflight of the Romans must have for Dionvsius 'of HalicamassuS

been stopped some way beyond the says, •• Numa built the Temple of

Bog called, since, the Lake of Cur- Vesta, which we now see between

tius ; therefore, the old Gate of the Palatine Hill and the Capitol."

ttiePalatium was, in all probability, Dion Cassius Mkewise places the

further from the Capitol than are Temple of Vesta between the Pala*

the Columns long called the Teiii- tine Hill and the Tarpeian Rock,

pie of Jupiter Stator. to the west of the Forum ; and if

Curia. Between the back part this was its situation, it must have

of the Church of S*. Maria Libe- stood behind the Church, and ra-

ratrice and the Temple of Romu- ther beyond what is supposed to

lus, now the Church of S. Teodoro, have been the limits of the Forum,

are ruins of a brick Edifice, erected Nevertheless it is said by Dionysius

by TuUus Hostihus, and hence of Halicamassus, when he men-

ealled Curia HoitiUa ; where, as tions the young Warriors who an*-

already mentioned, the Senate usu- nounced the defeat and death of

ally assembled. Three of the Tarquinius Sextius, **That they

Walls are in tolerable preservation 5 appeared in the Forum, where they

and several Arches, belonging to bathed in the water of a fountain,

this Edifice, may still be traced in n^r the Temple of Vesta; and,

a House adjoining to the Church after proclMhung the victory, quit*

Of S*. Maria Liberatrice. Judging ted the Forum." He also men-

by the present shape of the ground, tioris that, in the thrum, on the

a long flight of steps (probably spot where the Warriors were seen

terminated by a porhco) occupied to bathe, the Romans raised a

the lower part of the feyade of the Temple to Castolf and Pollux*.

(w) See T. Livm Lib. I.

(A>)The Vestal Vir^ns wereboand to keep the lacred fire uaextiAgaished, to gaatd the Palladium, (a celebrated statue of Pallas supposed to have been brought b;^ ^neaa from Troy,^ and likewise to reconcile differ- ences, and oecome arbiters in causes of mo- ment. Vestals were so called from their god- dess, Vesta, or Fire ; the word, Vesta, being

d«rilred from the UebreW root VM flrtf, Wli«<Mfl the Greek E^rm, fire, add the Lati» Vesta.

(^y) Cicero describes the Sacred Oroya as being at the foot of Palatine Hill, and stretch- ing «rcst«fard.

Qe) When Caligula extended the Imperial Palace toward the Fonm, he so cofttrited that the Temple of Castor ahd PoUnx to be the Vestibule of his mftosion.

The Laeui CurHta U 66njeetuTed brotixd dlt, ftdom^ with stup^n-

to hare been near the site of the dous coUimns, and enriched with

Church of S*. Maria Liberatrice ; the finest statues and pictures of

atid on this side of the Forum the the Grecian Schools ; among which

Bostra, the Temple of Augustus, was the celebrated portrait t^

and the Basilica of Porcius* aare Ial3rsus, painted by Protogenes,

Supposed to have stood •. ^ for the Rhodians, and the statue,

Tempio di Antonino e Fxastina, mentioned by Pliny, of the Nile

built A.D. 168, by the Roman with sixteen Children. The citi*

Senate, in memory of their Em- zens deposited their wealth in tiiis

peror, Antoninus Pius, and his Temple; and here Titus Vespa^

Consort, Faustina. The Portico sian placed the spoils of Jerusa*

of this Temple, now the Church of lem. In short it served as a pub-

8. Lorenzo in Miranda, displays lie treasury till about an hundred

ten Corinthian Columns of mar- years after its foundation ; when

ble, called, by the Romans, cipol- the whole Edifice, with tsXL the pre<-

lino. The sides of the Portico cious contents, are said to hare

seem originally to have been en- l)een destroyed by fire, which

crusted with marble, now taken Issued suddenly from the bowels

away ; but a Frieze of White mar* of the earth : and this record of

ble, aaomed with Gryphons, &c. the destruction of the Temple^

still remains, and proves the an- added to an idea that the style of

cient magnificence of the building, architecture is not good enough

Teifipio di Remo\ now Chiesa for the days of Vespasian, has rfg* B.S. Conmo e Damiano. The lately led antiquaries to conjee* Bronze Door, Marble Door-case, ture that these ruins, called the and Porphyry Columns on the out- Temple of Peace, are in fact no- side of this Building, appear to thing more than the remains of a be antique ; as does tne Rotondo, 6 asiUca erected near the Colosseum which serves as a Vestibule : but by Maxentius ; though, after his the Body of the Church seems to death, called the Basilica of Con^ have been erected about the time stantine. Perhaps, however, we of Constantine. In this Temple might come nearer the truth by was a Pavement, containing the supposing that Maxentius raised Plan of Rome, cut on white mar** his Basmca on the Site of the ble, probably in the reign of Sep- Temple of Peace " ; availing him- timius Severus and Caracalla ; self of the remains — for remains which plan, mutilated and unme- there surely must have been—of thodized, is now fixed into the the ancient Edifice, in order to Wall of the Staircase of the Mu»- construct his own : but he ap- seum of the Capitol. The Sub- i>ears to have extended his Basi- terranean Part of ttds Temple me- lica beyond the Site of the Temple; rits notice. as, in consequence of recent ex-

Tempio ddla Pace. Vespasian, cavations, part of the Via Sacra

ftiter terminating the war with was discovered imder the Basilica :

Judea, raised Siis vast Edifice and the New Branch of the afore-

about the year 76* It was the said Road, evidently made after

noiit magnificent Temple of an- the Basilica was buHt, is not con-

d^nt Rome ; being encrusted with structed like the ancient part.

(a) Pliny informs nt thit tlt« first Stui-di&l, double Temple, ereetei to the Brothers Rq.

krected fbr public use ftt Rome, was i^aeed e& mains and Kemiis.

this side of the Forum, about the year U. O. (c) The rains of this Kdifiee, in their pr*.

491. sent state, correspond with the acegint givea

(6) Aeewdiag to some oplttiona tUt W«b a by Pliay of tM l^mple of Pt»oe. But, Net.

1. 36. c. 15,

140 . ROME. [Ch. VI.

This New Branch runs parallel fluted Composite Columns. On with two sides of the Basilica; the Frieze is the triumphal pro- and then, passing in front of the cession of Titus, together with Temples of Remus, and Antoni- the Image of a River-god, pro- nus and Faustina, joins the Old bably the Jordan. Under the Road near the Site of the Arch of Arch on one side is Titus, seated Fabian. The ancient Via Sacra in a Car, conducted by the Genius went from the Temple of Peace, of Rome, and attended by Victory, on the left of the Temple of Venus who is crowning him with laurel, and Rome, toward the Amphi- On the other side of the Arch are Iheatre. Little now can be traced the Spoils of the Temple at Jeru- jof the splendid pile of ruins called salem, namely, the table of Shew- Constantine's Basilica, except bread, the tables of the Law % the* three immense Arches, which Seven-branched Golden Candle- formed one side of the Edifice, stick, the Jubilee Trumpets, the part of the Roof, Niches for sta- Incense Vessel, &c., copied, no tues, and Doors of Communica- doubt, from the ori^nsils ; and tion ; but what serves to convey therefore the most faithful repre- some idea of the grandeur of this sentations extant of these sacred Bmlding is one of the eight Co- Jewish antiquities '. The Deifi- lumns with which its interior was cation of Titus is represented on embellished, namely, a fluted Co- the Roof of the inside of the Arch, rinthian Shaft of white marble, This Edifice was nearlv destroyed, sixteen English feet and a half in that its ornaments might be placed circumference, and without base elsewhere : but enough remains to or capital, forty-eight feet high " : i)rove« that it was the most beau- it now stands before the Church tiful building of its kind ever of S*. Maria Maggiore. The Ba- erected at Rome*. To prevent silica appears to have been of a the Arch from falling, it has been quadrangular shape ; about three recently and judiciously repaired ; hundred feet in length, and in for the modem work is of such a breadth about two hundred : and description that it cannot be con- the remaining part exhibits a style founded with the ancieiit. of architecture anterior to the Gradinata del Tempio di Ve- days of Maxentius, and not dis- nere e Roma* The steps recently jsimilar to that in the Temple of excavated, between the Church Venus and Rome*. of S*. Franceses Romana and the Arco di Tito ; built with Pen- Arch of Titus, appear to be part telic marble, by the Senate and of those which led from the Forum People of Rome ; and dedicated to to the Temples of Venus and Titus, in honour of his conquest Rome. These Temples were en- of Jerusalem. This Edifice con- compassed by a Portico, adorned sists of one large Arch, over which with a double row of Columns of is an Attic Story. Each front was grey granite : remains of wliich originally embellished with four are stul discoverable; as are the

(c) According to Vasi, this Column is fifty- (/) Josephns supposes the Veil, and Tables

eight Paris feet and a half in height, base and of the Law, to have been placed in the Im-

i;apital iuclasive ; and rather more than perial Palace at Rome ; and the Candlestick,

nineteen feet in circumference. and other spoils, in the Temple of Peace.

(ji) Apartments of small dimensions, which The Golden fillet, according to report, was

probablr held some of the treasures deposited seen in the days of Adrian ; and several of

in the Temple of Peace, were, in conseoneace the sacred Hebrew vessels were carried by

-of an excavation, found under the Basilica of Genseric to Africa.

.Constantine. (a) Judea is always represented, on the

• (jO ThQ Tablet of the Iiaw »re no longer Medals struck by Titus, as a Female, sitting

distinguishable. . on the ground, in a postaro denoting sorrow.

ch:vij romk; i4i

Foundations of the Portico. The from a colossal Statue (one hun- Temples, though each had its se- dred and twen^ feet hih) of parate Entrance and Cella, formed Nero, in the character ofApoUo, only one edifice, in length about which was placed here by TOus ; three hundred and thirty feet, and who, at the consecration of the about one hundred and sixty in Edifice, exhibited Gladiatorial width. The front toward the Shows* in its Arena *= during a Forum was adorned with Co- hundred days: and five thousand rinthian fluted Columns of Pa- Wild-beasts, together with some rian marble, near six feet in thousands of G-Tadiators, are said diameter ; as was that toward the to have been sacrificed on this oc- Colosseum ; and on either side casion. The Colosseo was erected were Columns of the same de- by Flavins Vespasian, the Father scription. Fragments of which re-' of Titus ; and is supposed to stand main. Bwond the Steps leading on the site of the Fish-ponds of from the Forum on one side, and Nero. Its exterior circudar Wall the Colosseum on the other, to the rests on two steps ; and had Three Courts of this double Temple, Rows of Arches, eighty in each were Steps which encompassed Row, placed one above the other, the BuiMmg, and led to its Vesti- with half columns between them, bules. Each Cella likewise was to support their respective Enta- approached by a Flight of Steps, blatures ; the first Row of Half- and adorned with Columns of por- columns being Doric, the second I>hyry, found, from recent excava- Ionic, the third Corinthian ; and tions, to have been upward of two the fourth Story, which terminates feet in diameter. The Roof was the Edifice, was embellished with stuccoed and gilt ; and the interior Corinthian pilasters, and had Win- Walls and Pavement were en- dows instead of Arches. The ex- crusted with giallo antico and ser- terior Arches of the first Row are pentino. The Cella of each Tem- marked with numerical letters, in- ple, the Niches for the statues of dicative of the interior Staircases, Venus and Rome, and a consider- (of which there were twenty) where- ble part of one of the Side Walls, by each class of persons ascended are tolerably perfect, and indicate to the Seats provided for them, that the whole Edifice must have Seventy- six Entrances were appro- been a chef'dcBuvre of architec- priated to the People; two were ture. It was built after the de- for the Gladiators, and two for signs of the Emperor Adrian ; the Emperor and his Suite : and and the manner in which the Ceil- between the Arches numbered ing of each Cella is ornamented XXXVIII and XXXIX, is sup- resembles the style of the re- posed to have been the Entrance maining Roofs of his Villa near from the Palace of Titus to the Tivoli \ Amphitheatre. The shape of this Colosseo. This vast and mag- Edifice is an oval, computed to be nificent Structure is supposed to sixteen hundred and forty- one have derived its name of Colis^eum Paris feet in circumference ; and

(A) The name of this Doable Temple seems dered the Gladiators to slay the Monk ; they

allnsive to the boasted descent of th« Ro- obeyed; bat he was canonised, and Honoriua

mans from J^iSneas, the Son of Venos. abolished the Shows.

(t) Gladiatorial Shows were exhibited in Combats of Gladiators were instituted

this Amphitheatre till the year 404 ; Ttrhen an A. U, G. 490.

eastern Monk, named Almachius, or Telema- (JC) So called because strewed with sand,

chns, rashed into the Arena, and endeavoured that the blood of the wounded juisht not

to separate the Combatants. The Praetor make the place sUppery. Alypius, wlu) enjoyed these horrid sights, or-

142 BOMK. [Oh. YI.

one hundred and fifhr-ieyen in first of wUeh, light was adnitted height : its Arena, likewise an by the exterior Arches, and, to the ovu, is two hundred and eighty- last, by the Windows. The Ben- five Paris feet in lengthy by one ches are supposed to have held hundred and eightv-two in width ; eighty- seven thousand spectators ; and surrounded with a Dwarf Wall, and the GaUeiy above them up«  sufficiently high to have protected ward of twenty thousand. Tne the spectators from the wild» Attic Corridor was ornamented beasts. The Arena has two En- with eighty columns of matble, trances ; one opposite to the Tern- supporting a Terrace, whereon pie of Venus and Rome, tiie other stood the workmen who had chai^ on the side of the Mons-Ccelius ; of the Velarium, or Awning, which and near the latter Entrance is was stretched over the whole a gigantic Buttress raised by Structure in case of rain, or eK-^ Pius VII, to prevent this part treme heat: and in the Wall of of the structure from falling, this Attic Story are Square Holes The materials of which it is supposed to have contained part chiefly composed are immense of the apparatus for fixing the blocks of b-avertino ^ originally Awning. In consequence of re* fixed together with iron, or bronze cent excavations under the Arena, cramps, now taken away"": and subterranean Walls and Passages the time employed in building it is haye been discovered ; the former supposed to have been about four apparently constructed during the years. The Wall of the Arena middle ages ; and among the latter had Doors in the form of Grates, is the spot where an unsuccessful through which the Wild^beasts attempt was made to assassinate and Gladiators entered: and im^* Commodus. Fragments of Go- mediately above this Wail was the lumns. Sculpture, and Inscriptions, Podium, or Balcony, for the Em* were likewise discovered ; and one peror and his Family, the Vestals, of the Inscriptions signifies, that Senators, and Magistrates entitled the Arena, Podium, Beaches, and to curule chairs ; and behind these some of the Entrances, were re^ Seats rose others, for the several paired about the year 439 of the classes of Citizens, each class hav- Christian era, by Lampadius, Pre- ing its peculiar door, leading to its feet of Rome : and according to Seats. These Benches for the another Inscriptioi^, repairs were People were divided into three again made, about the year 480, in parts, called Momiana, or Prtg^ consequence of damage done by cinctioneSj and subdivided by small an earthquake. But the great Steps, called Ct/net. the first part mischief this stupendous Edifice contained twenty-four Benches ; sustained during the fourteenth the second sixteen ; and the third, century, from Civil-war, so com- (originally constructed with wood,) pletely ruined part of the exterior ten only, besides the Gallery, ap- Wall which fronts the Church of propriated to the Populace: but S. Gregorio, that the fallen and this third division hkving taken loosened stones furnished ample fire, was restored, in stone, by materials for building several large Heliogabalus, and Alexander Se- palaces : and this purloining busi- verus. Every Story of this Am- ness went on so prosperously, tiiat phitheatre had a spacious circular if the Arena had not, at length, covered Corridor ; to the three been consecrated to Christifim wor-

(0 Lapit Tyhurtinui^ a stone mack used in (m) The Cramps were fastened with iMlte^

large bimdiiigs at Rome. lead.

Oh,VL] BOMB. us

ship^ the. remaining Wfdls m^ all the Camioes, wer« titken from

probably have beeome the prey of the Arch of Trt^an.

stone-masons ^ Chiesa di S, Teodoro. Imme^

Near the Colosseum, toward the diately behind the Forum Roma-

Via Sqcra, are ruins of a Foun-< num, on the way to the Forum

tain, called the Meta Stidans, Boarium, and on the spot sup-

which supplied the persons who posed to have been the iiuperoalt

assisted at the Shows with water ; stands this small Rotondo, erected,

and might, perhaps, have been according to the -opinion of several

used in filling the Arena, for the antiquanes, on the Site of the an-*

Namuaohiae l&equently exhibited cient Temple of Romulus ; wMeh

there. stood in the Lupercal, where he

Arco di Co9ktntino, dedicated and Remus were discovered: and,

to that Emperor, by the Senate in confirmation of these opinionst

and People of Rome, in memory the bronze Wolf of Etruscan work-

of his victory over Maxentius at manship, now preserved in the

the Ponte Molle, This Arch stands Capitol* was fbund in this Tem*

at the junction of the Celian and pie. Moreover, it was customary

Palatine Hills, in the Vict-Appia; for the ancient Romans to cariy

and is the most splendid, because Sick Infants to the Temple of Ro« 

the best-preserved Edifice of its mulus : and Sick Infants are now

kind remaining in Rome. It has, taken to the Church of S. Teodoro ;

on each side, four fluted Corin-i a circumstance which corroborates

thian Columns ; seven being gial- the opinion, that this Church was

lo antico, and one partly giallo erected on the ruins of the Temple

anticQ, and partly white marble : of Romulus : for ancient customs

and on the Pilasters, above these are still preserved at Rome, es-*

Columns, are Statues of Dacian pecially those which relate to reli<*

Warriors. The Po^W-n/t^t which gion. Dionysius of Halicamassu$

enrich the Frieze and represent reports, that the Arcadians erected

the Conquest of Verona, and the a Temple to Pan, on a part of the

Victory at the Ponte MoUe, to^* Palatine Hill, caJled the Lupercal»

f ether with the four Figures of near a Cavern and a Wood ; add-

ame, and the two MedaSions on ing, ^ When Romulus and Re-

the sides of the Arch, are proofs mus were committed to the Tiber,

of the decline or Sculpture under that river being much swoln, came

Constantine : the other Bcusi-ri^ up to the foot of the Palatine Hill,

lievi, two below the Great Ardade wnere the cradle which contained

excepted, (which were also done the devoted Infants was placed,

in the time of Constantine,) are When the water receded, the cra/-

finely worked, and supposed to die, being dashed against a large

have been taken firom the Arch of stone, was overturned ; and a Wolf

Trajan, which adorned his Fonmi. who lurked near, attracted by the

One of these, fronting the Coles- cries of the terrified Infants, came

seum, represents the Triumphal and licked off the mud with which

Entiy of Trs^an into Rome ; and they were covered, and likewise

another, on tne opposite side, re- suckled them ; till being disturbed

presents him in the act of offering by the approach of Shepherds,

the Sacrifice called Siuwetaurilia. she took refuge in a neignbour-

The Statues of Daciau Warriors, ing Wood, according to tradition

the Columns of giallo antico, and consecrated to Pan. In this Wood^

(•) Persons who wish to see the Colossettm bonring Guard-house for a Soldier to cooduct

by BMoiaight, should provide themselves with them up the Stairs, and through tHe v^orn-

lantems ; and likewise apply at the Beifh- dors, to the Attio Story.

144 ROME/ coil.' VI.

t^ras a Grotto, which (though the calla and Geta were represented Wood no longer exists) may stiU sacrificing ; but the figure of the be seen near the edifices of the latter was torn down by his bar- Palatine, on the road to the Circus;, barous murderer, though the and in the vicinity of the Grotto place it occupied may still be seen, stands an jEdicula % where this The name of Geta, in the inscrip- adventure is recorded in bronze, tion on the Arch, was likewise The work appears very ancient, effaced by Caracalla. Adioining and represents two Infants suckled to this Edifice is the Church of S. hy a Wolf P." Perhaps, therefore, Giorgio in Velabro, supposed to the JEdicula mentioned by Diony- stand on the Site of theBassilica sius of Halicamassus might have of Sempronius '. been the ancient Temple of Romu- Area di Giano Quadrif route: lus ; and if so, its situation, as This is a Square Building, com- described by him, accords with posed of immense blocks of white that ofthe Church of S.Teodoro'*. Grecian marble; and was once On the outside of the door of en- adorned with columns and statues, trance to this Church stands a which have disappeared. It has Pagan Altar. The Walls of the an Arch in the centre of every Church are circular, perfect, and, front ; and the brick-work above though ancient, not of very high the cornice is of modem date •. antiquity. They exhibit within- The Edifice seems originally to side three large Niches for Statues, have been either a Market-house, The Roof is modem ; and the Tri- or an Exchange, of which there buna displays a Mosaic of the were several in ancient Rome ; al- eighth century ; at which period most every Forum was provided Pope Adrian I. converted this with one of them, and they were Edifice into a Christian Temple, called Jani,

Its interior may be seen every To the left of the Arch of Janus

Sunday morning, from eight o'clock Quadrifrons, at the end of a path

till ten ; and every Thursday mom- with Small Arches thrown over it,

ning, from seven o'clock till is a little Rill of peculiarly limpid

0ight. and excellent Water, which dis-

Arcodi Settimio Severo in Ve- charges itself into the C/oaca-Afar-

labro. This Arch, of the Compo- ima; and which ta-adition reports

site Order, was erected by the to be the Source of the Jutuma ;

Bankers and Tradesmen of the whence sprang a Lake of the same

Fomm Boarium, to Septimius nanfte ; in which Lake, Castor and

Sevems, his Consort, Julia, and Pollux are said to have watered

their Sons, Caracalla and Geta. their horses after the battie at the

On one side of this Arch is a Bos- Locus Regillus.

so-rilievoy which represents Sep- Cloaca-Mamma, Just beyond

timius Severus and Julia sacrifi- the aforesaid little Rill of Water is

cing ; and on tfie other side Cara- the great Arch of the Cloaca-Max-

(o) JEdicul<B were small edifices, each of ners of their ancestors,

which contained an altar ; many of them may (r) There were in the Velabrum, bet^idea the

still be seen in Magna Graecia : they resem- Forum Boarium (where stood the celebrated

ble modern oratories. Statue of a Cow, by Myron\ the Forum Olito-

(p) The precise words are, "A Wolf pre- rium, and the Jorum Piscatorium. The

senting her teats to the Twins." Temple of Janus, built by Numa, was like-

Livy confirms the statement of Bionysius o' wise in this quarter ; and stood, according to

Halicamassus. — See T. Liv.,l/t&«rl. Livy, at the lower , end of the street culed

(9) Venuti asserts that the little Temple of Argiletum.

Jlomulus was long preserved in its original 0) It was added hv the Fran^ipani family,

state of simplicity ; by way of calling to the when they converted this Building into n

remembrance of the Eom«ui9 the simple man< small Fortress.

Ch. VIJ ROME,

145

tma, consfaructed, by Tarquinius this as it may, the Edifice in

Priscus, with rude and enormous question was originally an ancient

stones, hewn from the Tarpeian Temple ; because part of the Cella,

Rock, and placed on each other, built with large blocks of traver-

so as to form, without any cement, tino, and eight Columns of the

this stupendous Subterranean Cor- exterior Peristyle, still remain,

ridor, one of the most surprising Seven of these Columns may be

and>useful public works of ancient discovered in the Wajfls of the

Rome*. Its height "and breadth Church; and one in the Sacristy:

"were the same, about eighteen They are white marble fluted, and

Roman architectural palmi : it of the Composite Order, with Ca-

entered the Tiber between the Pow* pitals so finely worked, that pro-

Senatorius and the still existing bably they were executed long after

Temple of Vesta ; and its Mouth the construction of the Temple,

may be seen when the river is Pope Adrian I rebuilt this Edifice,

low'. The Cloaca-Maccima com- in the year 728 ; and from being

municated with several, compara- overcharged with ornaments, it

tively speaking, small Common received the name of S\ Maria in

Sewers ; all of which were united Cosmedin . Its Portico contains

in the Forum Romanum, and dis- an ugly ancient Mask, probably the

charged their contents into the Mouth of a Fountain; but (in

Cloaca-Maonma. These Cloacce consequence of an idea, once pre-

were extended, and completed, by valent among the populace, that

Tarauinius Superbus. oracles issued from it) called 5occa

Cniesa di S«. Maria in Cosme^ della verith *. The Church is

din. This Edifice, which stands paved witii Porphyry and other

in the Forum Boarium, is sup- precious marbles: the High-altar

posed, by some authors, to have is made of red Egyptian granite,

been the Temple of Pudicitia, or and appears to have been anciently

Chastity ; from which Plebeians a Sarcophagus. The Tribuna con-

S ere excluded": but Dionysius of tains an Ancient Pontifical Chair ; !alicamassus says, " that Servius and the Columns which support TuUius erected a Temple to For- the Nave are antic^ue. Giovanni- tune in the Forum Boarium, and Mario Crescimbem, the first Cus- another to Fortuna Virilis, on the tode of Arcadia, was buried in banks of the Tiber": and as the last this Church; his Monument is named building is similar in form near the great door, to that called the Temple of Ptidi- Tempio di Vesta, now Chiesa di citia Patricia^ perhaps they might fif". Maria del Sole. When this both have been erected about the Temple was erected is uncertain ; same time, and both consecrated but its elegant Greek architectiire to Fortune by Tullius. But, be proves it of much later date than

(0 Dionysiua of Hallcaniassus, when Maxima, were continually cleansed by streams

speakingof the Oloacae made by Tarquinius of water resembling rivers.

Priscus, says ; "The work is admirable ; and (tj) It is sometimes practicable to enter

in my opinion Rome has nothing more magni' the Cloaca-Maxima in a small boat.

ficent — ^nothing which better proves her gran- («) Virginia, though of noble birth, was

deur, than the Aqueducts, Paved Roads, and excluded from this Temple, because she had

Common Sewers." And Pliny says, that the married the Consul Volnmnins, a Plebeian ;

Cioacn, or Common Sewers, were the most and in consequence of that circumstance she

wonderful of the public works at Rome ; erected, at her own home, in Vico Longo^ the

beine cut through hills, and under the very Temole of Pudicitia Plebeia.

foundations of the City; and moreover so ^ (u;) An expression which signifies, in Greek,

spacious that a car loaded with hay might Covered with ornaments,

pass through them. Common Sewers were (x) Some antiquaries suppose this Mask

invented by the Romans. The smaller Cloacas, to represent' Jupiter, into whose mouth per.

irhich aU communicated with the Cloaca- sons, who were to make oath before a judge,

pnt their hand.

U6 ROMK. t(fti.Yii

m

•iitiy other relics df antiquity in from their beautlM propottidtts,-

the Forum Boarium. Doiiiitian to have beeh added to the Building

in said to have repaired this Edi- at a period vrhen architecture haa

fice ' which is ornamented with attained a high degree of perfec-

nineteen beautiful Corinthian Co- tion at Rome. The ornaments Of

lumns, fluted, and of Parian mar- the Entablatm-e, though injured

ble : they rest on a Ch'cular Flight by time, are still visible,

of Steps, and fomi a Ch"ct3ar Near the Palatine, or Senatorian

Portico round a Cella likewise Bridge, now called Ponte-Botto,

Circular y; the Wall of which is are remains of an Edifice denOmi-^

composed of blocks of Parian nated The House of Pilate, but

marble : and so exquisitely are really that of Nicholas Crescens,

these materials joined, that they supposed to have been the Son of

appear to be only one piece. The Pope John X\

ancient Roof was Bronze ; but " Palazzo de" Cesari, • On the

that, together with the cornice and Mons-PalatinuSy where RomiiluaJ

frieze, and one of the columns, founded Rome, Augustus began,

(for originally there were twenty,) Tiberius and Caligula continued,

can no longer be found *. and Domitian finished, the splen-

Tempio delta Fortuna Virile, did Palace of her Emperors |

now Cniem di 8<^. Maria Egiziaca, which, like a small city, coverea

Servius Tullius, in gratitude for the Hill. The shape of this Pa*

his extraordinary elevation from a lace (nearly a parallelogram) may

slave to a monarch, erected this still be traced ; and rums of one

Edifice : and Dionysius of Hali- half, called Domus Augtisfana, are

camassus relates, that the Temple discoverable in the Tigna Pala-

of Fortuna Virilis was burnt, not tina% and the Gardens belonging

long after the death of Tullius, to the Convent of S. Bonaventura.

and rebuilt in its original form * and the English College ; and

and that the Statue of the King, ruins of the other half, called

placed during his reign in this Domus Tiberiana, are equally dis« 

Temple, though made of wood coverable in the Orti Farnesiani,

rilt, remained uninjured amidst TTie Front of the Palace and Prin*

the flames. Dionysius also says, cipal Entrance seem to have been

it was seen in tne Teipple, and toward the Via Sacra : and to

highly venerated by the Romans, render the ascent to this Entrance

in riis time. The body of the Tem- easy, there were Steps, probably

pie is built with peperino *, (the extending in a semi-circular form,

stone of which nearly all the most before the Portico ; and so made,

ancient edifices of Rome were com- tiiat quadrupeds and carriages

posed;) the Portico is built with might mount them*. Between

travertino ; and in order, perhaps, these two buildings ^^^ere the Gar-

to conceal the injuries produced dens of Adonis,' terminated at the

by the aforesaid conflagration, a end, near the Circus Maximus, by

coat of fine stucco embdlishes the a Theatre. On each side of the

Exterior Walls and elegant fluted Gardens was a Hippodrome ; and

tonic Columns; which last appear, the Claudian Aqueduct (somd

(y) The Temples of Vesta were always Tribune of Rome in 1047, and was rebuilt by

orbicular, perhaps in allusion to the sun. him.

(s) This, and another Temple of Vesta, are (c) This Domain, formerly called the Villa- mentioned by Horace, as existing at Rome in Spada, now belongs to an Soglish Gentleman, his days. who has convert^ it into a delightful resi-

(a) Lapis Albanus^ a volcanic production, dence.

found'near the Lake of Albano. (d) These steps were sucli as the modem

(h) This house became afterwards the pro- Romans ciJl $cala a cordonata, perty of the celebrated Nioolo di Rieuza,

Cli.VI.] ROME. 14f.

Arches of which may still be seen by fire, in the year 64, he repah«d in tiie Gardens of S. Bonaventura) the Ihmus Augu9t(ma ; and added was brought over the Celian HiU^ to it his celebrated Domus cturM, to supply the Palace with water, or Golden House, which is sup- The Temple of Apollo, erected by posed to have extended from on«  Au^stus after the Victory of extremity to the other of the Actium, stood on the Palatine Hill Celian Iiill< Suetonius says, ** To near the Domits Attgustana, and give an idea of the extent aad is ' supposed to have been a Ro- beauty of this edifice, it Is sufi- tondo % with an open circular cient to mention, that in its VmH-- Portico, placed in a Court, adorned bulum^ was placed his colossal with a Peristyle. Statues of the statue, one hundred and twenty feet fifty Daughters of Danaus siu*- in height. It had a triple nortico, rounded the Portico ; and, opposite supported by a thousand columns ; to them, were Equestrian Statues with a lake, like a little sea, sur- of their Husbands. Contiguous rounded by buildings which resem- to this Temple stood the Greek bled cities. It contained fields, and Latin Libraries of Atmistus; vineyards, pasture ground, and and on the side of the HiU to- groves, in which were all deserip- waxd the Forum, under Caligula*s tions of animals, both wild and Bridge, which joined the Palace tame. Its interior shone with gold. to thie Capitol, appears to have gems, and mother-of-pearl. In the been the site of the Temple of vaulted roofs of the eating rooms A\:^stus, which was destroyed were machines of ivory, which by ^re. During the year 1820, turned round, asid, from pipes, accident discovered, in the Famese scattered flowers and perftimes on Oardens, a ma^ficent Hall, two the guests. The principal banquet- hundred pahni m length, and one ing hall was a rotondo, so con- hundred andtiiirty-two in breadth, sleeted that it turned round nieht Antiquaries euppose it to have and dayjk in imitation of the motios been built by DomiUan: it was of the earth'. The baths were sup* rieh^ ornamented witii statues, plied from the sea, and the sul-* columns of giallo antioo, and otlier phureous waters of Albulfle*; and precious marbles ; and behind it when Nero, after having dedicated •are Baihs, slill in tolerably good this fairy palace, took up his abode preservation^. But immense and there, his only observation was, superb as was the first-built Pa» Now I shall begin to live ^e a laee of Ihe Csesars, Nero, (whose man K^ Under the CampanUe of extravagance, and whose passion the Church of fl. John and 8. Paul, fbr architecture had no hmits,)* and extending toward the Cdosseo, though il much too small £br him : are remains of a noble Portieo, sup* he, therefore, extended its edifices posed to have belonged to the Do- and gardens from the Palatine mue Aurea; and loundations of Hill to the Esquiline: and after other buildings, which probacy thedestructionof the whole fabric belonged to it likewise, may be

(e) Perhapg in allusion to the snn. experience (roro x«ballding it Id S tf^piOJNf

(jT) The Temple of the ^^oddess Viriplac* manner,

illkewise stood on the Palatine HiU. When a (A) The VestihfUvm was Che Coort l>eloQ|;-

dispute arose between husband and wife, ing to the Edifice.

they repaired to this Temple ; and after reca- Qt) A.ud probajblj to pxeneut the beaios pf

pitulating their grievances to ^e goddess, the sun from entering it.

.were reconciled. (ft) These waters, Wliich, acoordwg to

(a) Rome, when Nero acceded to the Sin- Strabo, were several aprings coUeotad toge-

plre, was extremely iU buUt j and it is sup* ther, had the repatatiw, in ancient ttrnm, m

Sosed that his chief inducement for burnii^ poasessing xA^ixj medical yixtaeOf

own the City was the pleasure he hoped to (0 See jAfe of Nero, e. 31.

If 2

148 ROME> ICh.yi.

traced the whole way from the contains two small subterraneati Vigna Palatina to the Esquiline apartments, commonly called the Hul. Baths of Lima ; in which, by the

In order to see every thing now aid of torches, remains may be dis* remaining of the Palace of the Cse- covered of beautiful arabesques, sars, the best mode is to drive nearly and a considerable quantity of ^dr up to the Arch of Titus ; then tium- ing, bright as if just done. Here ing to the right, and a little way also are small Bassi-rilievi in on,, is a Gate, which opens into the stucco. Beyond the Baths of Li«  Orti Famesiani ; where : not far via is a dilapidated Villa of modem distant from the entrance, are steps, date, ornamented with frescos, pro- which lead to three small, dilapi- bably by Raphaers scholars <" : and, dated Modem Edifices: one of from a Terrace here, the view of these, surmounted by a Turret, con-. Rome and its environs is magnifi* tains Frescos in bad repair ; and, cent. In that part of the Garden further on, is the spot where the which fronts the Capitol are a con" Arcadian Academy originally aS- siderable number of Subterranean sembled", amidst ever-green oaks, Buildings, some of which resemble wood-laurels, and Fragments of the the Sette Salle, belonging to the Entablature, Frieze, Cornice, and Baths of Titus, and might proba-^ Capitals of Columns, which seem bly, like them, have served as re* to have once belonged to the Tem- servoirs for water. This Garden pie of Apollo built by Augustus : also contains ruins of the Theatre for among the decorations of the built by Caligula, and a spacious Frieze and Cornice are Gryphons Hall, the Roof of which is well and Tridents interlaced with Dol- preserved.

phins, symbols of a naval trimnph ; On quitting the Orti Famesiani. and moreover Gryphons were con- and continuing to ascend the Pala-i^ secrated to Apollo. These finely- tine Hill, we find, on the left, the executed Fragments are now over- Church of S. Bonaventura; and, grown by the acanthus ; which on the right, a Gate-way, leading flourishes here so luxuriantly, that to tiie Vigna Palatina ; where, on one might fancy it planted on pur- the Site of part of the Domus Auf pose to point out the source of Co- gustana, stands a Modern Edifice, rinthian architectural ornaments, called ViUa-Palatina p. The Por- Here lies neglected, on the grass, tico of this Villa is ornamented with the original Medallion of the arms Frescos, all of which, except one of Arcadia, the Syrinx of Pan en- representing Venus, and attributed circled with pine "^ and laurel ; which to Raphael, are by Giulio Romano ; Medallion once adorned the place who has painted on the Ceiling, of meeting. This Garden hkewise two small Pictures, representing

Cm) The Arcadian Academy, one of the most the great embellisher of almost every land- celebrated existing, and to -which most of the scape in Italy and Magna Onecia, being con- Frinces and Literati of Europe belong, was sidered throughont these countries as *' King founded in the year 1690, and warmly patron- of forests all," the Head of Silvanus, like the ised by Christina of Sweden, and the literary Arms of Arcadia, is represented as encircled Characters of her time. Its members, at the with its leaves.

commencement of the institution, met in the (o) Among the Frescos are two Medallions,

Famese Garden; afterwards at the Bosco Par- representing the Story of Hercules and Cacus.

rasio on the Janiculum Hill; and latterly in The Cave of this famous Robber, according to

an apartment belonging to the house of their the fable, stood between the Tiber and the

Custode Generale: but Leo XII has now fitted Temple of Hercules ; now, according to some

up, for their use, the Protomoteca in the Capi- opinions, the Church of S. Alexius, on the

t(U : thus assembling t(^ether the persons of Aventine Hill.

most exalted birth, station, and talents, at the (p) The Casino of the Villa not long since

present day, with the Busts of those who shed possessed by the Spada family, and^ already

the brightest lustre on times past. mentioned as belonging to an £n^lish Gea<

(») The rovnd-topped Maritime Stone Pine, tieman.

Ch.yi.i Rome:. ' 149

Hercules, someoftheMusesr, and interspersed with ever-green oaks,

other heathen divinities. The Gar- laurels, flowering shrubs, aloes,

den of the Villa contains three and Indian fi^ ; forming altose^-

ancient Subtenranean Apartments', ther a most picturesque and un-

beautiful in point of architecture, pressive scene. One part of these

and well preserved : they seem on- Ruins completely overlooks the

ginally to have been ornamented Circus Maxunus, which lies imme-

with Arabesques, judging from the diately below it : and here is ar

remains now distinguishable : and Terrace, probably the Site of the

here, according to report, was Banqueting Hall whence Caligula,

found the superb Basin of red por* on being roused from sleep by the

phyry which adorns the Circular clamours of the populace, who

Mall in the Vatican Museum ">. wete impatient for the signal to

Beyond these subterranean apart* commence the Games ', ordered

ments, and quite at the end of the the Gladiators to clear the Circus :

Garden, is the spot where, accord* in consequence of which rash and

ing to some opinions, the signal cruel order multitudes were killed,

for commencing the Games in the The ancient Pavement of tiie Ter-

Circus Maximus was given. To race still remains entire ; and from

the left of this spot is a Large this spot the continuation of tiie

Oblong Court, supposed to have Claudian Aqueduct, l^ ^e Empe-

beeu a Hippodrome ; and on one rors, may be seen to great advan*

side of it are ruins of a Building tage. Fra^ents of Ancient Paint-

which appears to have been a ings are discoverable tluroughout

Temple, or ^dictda, and remains all the ruins of the Imperii Pa-

of another Edifice, the Ceiling of lace : and though Obhvion has

which is decorated with Medal- nowsweptaway a larger portion of

lions in Stucco. Beyond the lat- this enormous pile than of any

ter, and near the Circus Maximus, other gigantic edifice constructed

are magnificent Arches ; which by the ancient Romans, it was in-

seem to have formed an Apart- habited, during the seventh cen-

ment shaped like the libraries of tury, by the Emperor Heraclius,

modem days, though more exten- and tolerably well preserved for a

sive, and by some persons sup- hundred years after that period,

posed to be remains of the Libra- . Circus Maximus, In the vale

ries of Au^stus. between the Palatine and Aventine

On leaving the Vigna Palatina, Hills, Romulus instituted Games

it is customary to go back to the in honour of Neptunus-Equestris ;

Arch of Titus, passing that of supposed to have been called, by

Constantine, and, when nearl3rpa- iheKomsms^Consuales, or Consus;

rallel with the church of S. Gre- and therefore (it is presumed) these

Sorio sul Monte- Ceho, turning to Games were denominated Consu^

le right, toward the Forum Boa- alia ; though how far Consus and

rium ; near which is a door leading, Neptunus-Equestris were synony-

by a Narrow Flight of Steps, to mous seems uncertain. Consus pre-

what is now called th^ Palazzo de' sided over councils ; and his altars

Cesari, Here are considerable were placed in cells underground,

vestiges of stately Porticos, spaci- to shew that councils ought to be

ous Halls, and numberless Arches, secret and inviolable* During the

(q) IfthisporpliTry Basin, which seems to recentl;r disoovered ia the Pahlic Baths at

have bebnsred to a fountain, was discoyercd Pompeii. .^j.j .*

here, these Subterranean Apartments may (r) The Emperor, or ^J^p*^*'.!*^^®^^*

probably have been Baths ; for a basin simUar the Shows, gaye the sijnal to ^fil^^J?^^^

m shape, ud MoBging to » fountftin, WM il»g up % naptom caltod JfwPO ^trccntu. ,

no ROME* [Oh,YL

of tiiAie Gf«aiM> the constraetedby1!krqtiiiwisBriseafi; jftodiaivi sifted the Sabiue Wo* and from time to time the wh(de men : and some histomiis tell us £diftce was so much enlarged and that, is memory of this event, a. embeUished, that it at length be-* fiubteirratiean AJtaj* was erected to came worthy pf the grandeur of Consus» on or near a spot subse- Rome. Julius Cs&sar added to its qtiendy otJled the Oireus Maxi- size; and made the Ettripm^ or cnus ; and £urther» that the Altar Canal, already mentioned ; which was disinterred ^vious to every he supplied with water fitmi the jestival held in nis honour, that rivulet Crabra, or Marana, run- fiacrij&ces might be o&red to him $ ning between iha Aventine Hill and after which it was immediately the Palatine : and, according to reburied*. According to Dionvvius Pliny, the Circos, afiter Caesar's I9f Haiica^tmssus, Tait^Luinius Pris^ augmentations, was three stadia xnis was the finst person who gave long^ one stadium broad, and ca^- a decided shape to the Circus pable of containing two hundred Maximits, by suirounding it with lEind^ty thousand spectators. Ihe Covered Seats : for befoa% his time £mx>eror Claudius rebuilt the Cor- fthe spectators stood on scaffolds ceres with marble ; ornamented the bdd up by beasts. Dionysius lake- Jf«£^with gilding; and assigned wise says; "This circus has, at places for tiiue Senators ; v^o, till the two sides and one end, a Ca- then, appear to have mixed pro- aai tea feet 4eep, and as many miscuously with the People. Sue- brood, eoconq^sed with three sto* ceeding irinces repaired and en- ries of open Porticos; the lowest larged this Cipcus ; and,accordmg iMiHt of stone, the others of wtwd: to Victor, it held in the reign aad tike two side Porticos being of Constantine thiee hundred and joined to that at the ixmer end, e^hty thousand s^ed:ators. Its tvhsdi is shaped 'like a half moon, form was <^^ng, with one ex- the wiiole presents tlte appeaianee tremity isemircircular, the other of an Amphitheatre; and is eapa«- somewhat curred. In the centra l^ of i^ontainHig an hundred and of tiiw seoainsircular Wall was tt» fifty thowEMad persons. At the pnsdpal Entrance^ fronting tlw opposite, or smaili enoU ^are the C&rveres ; and nearly, thou^ not Carceres, resemfohi^ «K»des, quite in the middle of the Arema whence the houses start; and these was a long narrow platform, sup- Osrcaar^a are «o contrived that tih^y ported by dwaif walls, and oaOed aM open at the samemesment* The the Spina'^i at each extremity of ontssie of the Circus Is suironndei which stood a Meta or Goal The by a FoitiQO^*' Tarquiai»s Su.- Spina was <oonsider&biy raised perbms fid^iied the covered seats abovie the level of the ^r^ma^ aad

(sfe) Diifu^Qft «f H«lloamissfis diUs th« theirltoTsestthdinaliBswitbitowera, ttDdneref

CWnoJMi a iestival >a honoSr of Coasns; allowed them to work» -a cieeumfttaBce wltick

which consisted uf horse-races, with, and seems to prove that this festival was instituted

w^hout, riders ; libatiotis poftTedtm^e { IMid in honour of Neptu'ntui--£(iue9trb.

qaterifioes offered on a snbteavaneain altar sear (f) Supposed to have contained 8h<^.

the Circus Maximus, in a place hollowed out («) The Spina was rather nearer to the

otpressly for the purpose, lie adds'; "Con- left side ctf l^e Circus than to the right ; he-

^89, BCcorAing; to «onie>o|muoiis, mecnw ^&^ csqm, as die homes and diariots ran first

tuae ; bat aocordiag to othMs, though the down the Tight side, it was necessary, in the

horse-races were instituted in honour <a ITep- commencement of the course, to have a large

tune, the subterranean altar was erected space, that they might the more easily pass

afterwards, 'to a god, or tutelary goaias, who each otlier^ But after they had passed the

presided over secret designs, but whose name furthest Meta to return t» the Caromet^ Tomtf

it'Wfts deetaed irrevefteUt to pronounee." !Dio- ctf the ofaariots were left so far behind that n

njAiis likewise twei^eiOBS th&t, duving Hie fes- l^ss space to run in was safiiei6nt.-^See X«-

tival ^ the (hnmil^ tbe lU)«nii« <ffOfni«d mtsbzitu ^JtoHqmHes 4ff Uom^

C*,VJ.] ROJPS, 151

e^bjtsd Alt4r8|3ti^es, and Ob^- Fiescos on the Ceiling, by Gi|ido ;

liskSp Qands of music likewise and four Saints inc/mro scuro, by

Qcqupi^d the Spina during the the same master. The second

Games'. Augustu^f placed here Chapel contains two celebrated

the stately Obelisk which now Frescos; the one painted by Do-

adoms the Piazza del Popolo ; and menichino, the other by Guido, in

Constantius, the son of Constan- order to prove which was the

tjne, likewise placed here that still better artist. That by Domeni-

more lofW monument of Egyptian chino represents the Flagellation

art, the Obelisk which now stands of S. Andrew f ! that by Guido

in a mutilated, state before the -nepresents the same Saint going

Church of S. Giovanni in Laterano. to^uffer Martyrdom I ! The figures

Although this Circus was originally- of S. Peter and 8. Paul, near

made for horse and chariot races, the Altar, are by Guido. The

it was likewise used as a theatre third Chapel contains a Statue of

for foot races, wrestling, boxing, S. Gregorio, begun by .Michael

combats with wild-beasts, and Angelo, and finished by Cordieri.

other exercises calculated to make This Garden commands a beauti-

warriors of the Roman youth: and ful view of the Palace of the Cae-

tradition reports that in this Circus sars ^.

^Jidrocles, or Androdus^ being ex- Terme di Tito, These Baths, posed to fight with wild-beasts, which, not many years since, were was recognised by a lion from completely choked up with rubbish whose paw he had some time before and vegetable earth, apparently extracted a thorn J and who, instead thrown in to destroy them, are of tearing his antagonist to pieces, npw open to tiie %ht of day ; and fawned npon him, and licked his exhibit beautiful frescos in as per- hands. The shape of the Circu? feet preservation as they could Ma^imus may still be traced, as have been when first produced by 9iay the A^tm CraJbra : and the the artist's pencil near two thou- houses and other buildines at t^e sand years ago. The Romans foot of the Palatine Hm, o^ the learnt the use of baths firom the side of the Forum Boarium, are Greeks ; and thojugh, at first, em- ail erected on ruins of the Corri- ployed merely for the purposes of dors and Arches of the Circus, ojr negdth, they, in time, oecame ai^ the Tabemce "^ with which the Cir- Object of luxury and magnificence, cus formed a street. The Baths of Titus were smadler Chiesa di S, .Gregorio sul than those of Dioclesian and Ca- Monte-Ceiio, said to be built on racalla ; but superior in point of the foundations of a Patrician architecture, and more elegantly house, and to retain it^ ancient ornamented: 'the lower part of the shape *. Tliis Church is finely si- Edifice served for bathing ; the tuaied; and in the adjoining Gar- upper part for academies and den are three Chapels, built by gymnastic exercises. Communi- S. Gregorio. The first, dedicatea eating with the Baths are ruins to his Mother, S». Silvia, contain? called the Palace of Titus ; where her Statue, by Niccolo Cor(fieri; the Group of Laocoon and his

(ti) Bionysltts of Bafieamasstis mentions («) The road to tbe Gelian Hill, from the

tins ciicumatance^ and also says, that in eha- side opposite to the Palatine, is supposed to

^t Traces, somedme? one horse only wa$ l>e the ancient Clivtts Scauri. put to each car, sometimes two, sometimes CsO ^7 entering the quadrangle, and ring^

four, and occasionally three ; according to thfe ing a bell on the ngh't, admittance may Alwa]Fv

pcacticepf ancient warnonsof Greece. l>e .obtained to the Church and Chapels of b.

(tp) The Tnhernai qonsis.ted chiefly of trjidet- Gregorio : they are, during wmter. damp and

mens* shops. cold.

152 ROME. [Ch.VI.

Children was found : and, not far other Stairs, leading to the an- hence, the Belvedere-Meleager, or, cient subterranean Church, which according to Visconti, Mercury, is apart of the Baths, called those was found likewise. Near this spot of Titus, and famous for being were the Gardens of Mecaenas ; the spot where Pope S. Silvestro in a buUdittg belonging to which held a council, assisted by Con- Nero stood to see Rome in flames : stantine and his Mother. The and near this spot were the houses Mosaic Pavement, and matted Roof of Horace and Virgil. The Baths of the Baths (on which perhaps of Titus are damp. were paintings,) still remain per-

To the east of the Palace and feet, as do the Walls : and here

Baths of Titus, and enclosed with- no very damp air is encountered ;

in a Garden are nine immense Re- therefore Invalids may go down

servoirs, called Sette Salle, which with safety. . . , 4

evidently belonged to the Baths, Chiesa di S, Pietro in Vincoli. f '

and are tolerably well preserved. This fine Church, which owes its /

They probably derive their appella- present form to Antonio Sangallo, x

tion from the ancient name of the has a double cupola, like S. Pe-

spot where they are situated, which ter's. The three aisles are divided

was Septisolium, by twenty magnificent Roman-Do-

Chiesa di S. Martino in Monte, ric Columns of Grecian marble. This beautiful Church, not far taken from Dioclesian*s Baths : the distant from the Sette Salle, is circular Wall behind the High- erected upon that part of the altar made a part of Titus's Baths, Baths of Titus which was added whence the Pavement of the Sa- by Domitian and Trajan : such, cristy likewise was taken. Here at least, seems to be the opinion is a Picture of S*. Margherita, by of antiquaries ; because the brick- Guercino. Here also is the Mo- work in these Baths is very infe- nument of Julius II, designed by rior to that in the Baths built by Michael Angelo, who died soon Titus. after he had finished the much-ad-

The modern Edifice is adorned mired Figure of Moses ; in conse- with twenty-four magnificent Co- quence of which the other Figures lumns, brought from Adrian's were done by Montelupo. The Villa at Tivoli. The Vase for Monuments of Cardinals Margotti holy water is ancient. The High- and Agucci were executed after altar is peculiarly rich in pre- the designs of Domenichino ; and cious marbles ; the Paintings, at the end of the Tribuna is an which adorn its vicinity, were done Ancient Pontifical Chair in high by Antonio Cavalluccio, who lies preservation. The Sacristy con- buried here. The side aisles are tains a Picture, by Domenichino, embellished with Landscapes, by of S. Peter delivered from Prison. a Gasparo Poussin ; the Figures in Chiesa di 5". Maria della Na- I which arebyNiccolo Poussin; and vicella, so called from the model ^ the upper Landscapes are remark- of an Ancient Galley, said to have ably well preserved. The Chapel been a votive offering, and placed of the Madonna, at the end of the before it by Leo X. This Church, left side aisle, is ornamented with designed by Raphael, and sup- Paintings by Cavalluccio, and very posed to stand on the site of the fine marbles. The Steps leading ancient Castra Peregrina, or Bar- down to the Burial-place under racks for auxiliary soldiers, is em- the High- altar, and the Burial- bellished witiii fine Columns of Por- . place itself, were designed by phyry and Granite, and a Frieze Pietro di Cortona ; and here are beautifully painted in chiaro scuro.

, J

Ch.VI.] ROME. 153

W Giulio Romano and Piexino del seventy-four Paris feet ; and the Vaga. The Presbytery, likewise. Pedestal he computes to be twenty- was painted by the same artists; five.

as were two Altar-pieces of the . To record the exploits of heroes,

. Chax)els, one representing part of and to adorn their temples and

the Transfiguration, the other the their tombs, seems to have been the

Baptism of om: Saviour. origin of Egyptian obeUsks : and

y Near this spot is the Arch of the most of those which now ornament

r^ Consul Dolabella, over which Nero Rome are engraved with hierogly-

erected an Aqueduct, to supply his phics*; which, could we understand

Golden House with water. them well, might throw important

Chiesa di S. Stefano' RotondOj light on the history of past ages, formerly the Temple of Claudius'. Statues, and Obelisk, in the This beautiful and interesting Edi- Piazza di Monte- Cavallo ; so fice was built by Agrippina, m ho- called, fi-om the admirable sculp- nour of her husband Claudius ; de- ture with which it is embelUshed : stroyed by Nero, and rebuilt by namely, two Colossal Figures, sup- Vespasian ; which accounts for the posed to represent Castor and Pol- Columns not being uniform. It lux, each holding a Horse. These seems to have had two entrances. Twin-gods, the works of Phidias The interior part still retains the and Iraxiteles, are esteemed the precise form, together with all the finest things of their description at majesty of an ancient Temple ; and Rome ; especially that done by is embellished with a double row Phidias. They once adorned of Columns, fifty- eight in number, Athens ; and are generally sup- and chiefly granite. It has a mo- posed to have been brought to dem roo^ was converted into a Rome, from Alexandria, by Con- Christian Church by Pope S. Sim- stantine, in whose Baths they were plicius, and is, diuing winter, damp found; though some authors tell and cold '. us they were sent to Nero, as a Obelisk of the Piazza del Popolo. present, from Tiridates, kin^ of Ar- This Obelisk, which is charged menia. The Horses are ill exe- with Hieroglyphics, and generally cuted, and chiefly modem. The supposed to have been made at Obelisk, which stands between the Heliopolis 522 years before the Statues, was erected by Pius VI : ^Christian era, was brought to it is composed of red granite ; mea- Rome by Augustus ; found in the sures forty-five Paris feet, without Circus Maximus; and placed in the pedestal ; and originally adom- its present situation by Sixtus V. ed the Mausoleum of Augustus *». Its height, fi-om the ground to the Chiesa di S, Bernardo. This top of the Cross, is one hundred Edifice, the ancient form and roof and twelve English feet : and, ac- of which are quite perfect, merits cording to some opinions, it was notice, as belonging to Dioclesian^s executed by order of Psammeti- Baths. Some persons suppose it chus, an Egyptian monarch, who to have been a Caldarium bal* died 617 years before the Christian neum, or hot bath ; but the more era. Its height, exclusive of the general opinion is, that this Ro- Pedestal, is, according to Vasi, tondo, and the one opposite to it,

(x) Persons who question whether this was, and the Sacristan of the latter may be found

or was not, the Temple of Claudius, should daily, at the new Academy of S. Lutce.

consult Frontinus, J)e Aquaductib«s,&rt. 76, (p) The circular Basin belonging to the

p. 145, ed. Poleni, 1722. 4to. Fountain of Monte-Cavallo is said to be the

• (a) The churches of La Navicella, and S. largest piece of granite, of this description, m

6tefano Rotondo, are generally shut : but the Rome. Sacristan of the fonaer Ures in the yicinity';

m iioMiSf toil. VI*

now ierving as a public granaiy, owQsite t^ the Theatridium 9^d

near the ViUa-Neg^oni, were Tern- Bmiothecs ; the 4podytmurn$ Pf

pies dedicated to Apollo and ^Es- Great JIall, where Qie bathers un-^

culapius. The convent and gar- dressed an4 dressed themselves^ 4en of the monks of S. Bernardo,* was in the centre of the Baths,

the church, convent, and garden of which seem to have consisted of

the Carthusians^ the public grana- eight apartments ; four being on

ries, together with a large space, one side of the Apodyterium, and

called Piazza di Termini, a cor- four on the other : the first, in each

ruption of the word Thermcp^ ail row, was the Fri^elarium, or Cold

likewise belon^ng to Dioclesian's Bath ; the second the Tepidarium^

Baths ; which Building seems to or Tepid Bath ; the third the Col-

have been of the Corinthian Order, darium, ox Hot Bath; and thft

and nearly of a square form, en- fourth the Laconicum, or Vapour

closing Halls, where youths were Bath, The Baths communicated

instructed, and where men of learn- with each other; and under the

ing assembled to rea4 their compo- Apodyterium were flues, to fceep it

sifions; an Open Theatre, where in a proper degree of heat. In thij

Shows were exhibited in fine centre of the Baths likewise wa§

weather ' ; the Naiatio ; the SphcB" the Hypocaustum, or Great Stove ;

risterium; \heXystum; the Apo- whence hot water yy^as conveyed, in

dyterium ; the Hypocamtum ; and pipes, and hot air, in flues, to tii^

the different BaJhs, namely, the different chambers : and this part

Frigidarium, Tepidarium, Ualda- of the Building, which is still pre-

riumt and LacQmcum, Three sides served, serves as an Atrium to thQ

ofthe^a/a^tb, where persons swam Carthusian Church, The Conis-

in the open air, were bound-* *^mwm, containing sand with which

ed by Porticos, (it occupied what the Wrestlers were rubbed, after

is now the Cloister of the Carthu- being anointed with <»!, and th§

sians ;) on each side of these Por- Elceothesium, a shop furnished

ticos were BasUiccB and Dit^ttB^ with oils, ointments, and perfumes,

where public assemblies were held, for the use of the Bathers, wera

and sumptuous entertainments probably near the Hypocaustum:

given : adjoining to these apartr and at each extremity of the

ments was an Oolong Court, pro- Xystum was a Cavcediumy or Ope^

bably the place for playing at Court, surrounded with Porticos^

ball*^; and, immediately behind the Jn the yilla-Negroni are remains

Natatio, was the Xystum* ^ where of the Great Reservoir for water:

the Gladiators and Wrestlers exhi- and encompassing the exterior of

bited in bad weather : this is now the Baths were walks shaded witi

jttie Church of §•. Maria degli plane-trees',

Angeli. The Baths, properly so Chiesa di S*, Maria degli An- / .

named, extended in a straight hne geli. Pius IV dedicated Diocle-

(c) Considerable remains of this Theatri- called from being staffed with hair : ^e Fol-

dimm may be seen in a <rardea fonaerly be- lis^ so called from being made of a blad-

loogtng to the Gonrent of £. Bernardo; h\U der ; and with this, old men and chikM-«B

now left to a Calico-printer; whose ^oor of played: the Paganica, a ball staffed with

entrance is opposite to the Charch of S«. Maria feathers; which derived its name from vil-

degli Angeli. Between this TJweatre and the |«ges, where it waa ^iefly seap : 9^ t^h/a Tri-

Temples were buildinn which might, perhaps, goncUigt an appellation common to the Pila

have contained the Ulpian Library, remove^ and FoUiSy and allusive to the form of .the

hither from Trajan's Forum. tennis-courts where these balls were used.

(tf) The ancient Romans played with serial (je) The Xystwn is supnosed to have served

kinds of balls ; namely, the Marpastumt or foot- occasionally as a Pinacotneca.

ball, which, being placed between two compa- (/) T^e expense of bathing in a public batli

nles of young men, they strove who should |it Ropie was equivalent to about one hl^f-

driveit through the others' goal: the A7a,80 penny /o/ an i^^t', but, for a child, no;-

cft, F13 aoiCE. m

man'A B«ih0 ta' sntated uses ,^ be- Giardmo di SuUmio. Beyond / cause the Christian« who built the .Church of S*. Maria Vittoria, . them sufiPa-ed martyrdom: and pn the way to the Porta-Pia, the Michael Angelo> who was employ- secoud Garden-door to the left, ed to erect the Church, finding^, (which is seldom locked,) leads to among the ruins of these Baths, an the once magnificent Town-house, immense apartment, supported by .Circus, and Villa Suburbana ' (k /Stupendous Columns of orientu the Roman Historian, Sallust : the ^anite, (the Xystum already men- two former having been constructed tioned,) formed it into the presenEt on the QuirinaL Hill, the last hav- Church of S*. Maria degli AngeU, ing occupi^ the space between the The entrance to this majestic £di- Porta-Ssdara and the Porta- Pin- fi^, which may vie with S. Peter's ciana*; which space, now occu- in beauty, was a CoUdarium be- pied by the Lodovisi, and other longi]3^ to the Baths, and contains villas, was not enclosed within the the Monuments of Carlo Maratta walls of Rome till Am^ian ex- and Salvator Rosa. The Church tended its boundaries, Antiquar itself is in the shape of a Greek ries suppose these two Domains ^ross ; its length being, from the of Sallust were in course of tim^ Entrance to the High-adtar, three united ; and both, during the reign hundjped and thirty-six Paris feet ; of Honorius, A.D. 409, feU a prey its transversal Nave (supposed to to Alaric ; who (entering Rome have been the Xy$tum) th^e hun- by the Porta-Salara) laid waste dred and eigMy feet long, by me Gardens, and fired all the seventy-four wide, and eighty-four Buildings they contained. About hig^ ; and its ancient Columns' the twentieth year of the Christian already mentioned, each formed era, and after tlie death of Sallust, ont a a single block of Granite, his Villa Suburbana became the sixte^ feet in carcumfearence, sjod {property at the Roman Emperors ; Capitals and Bases inclusive, iofrij- and Aurelian enriched it with a t^ree feet hish. The Pavement is Hippodrome, vestiges of wliich may beautiful^ and contains a celebrated be tra<>ed at the Villa- Cesi. The Meridian by Monsignore Bian* Terrace of the Casino-Barberini diinL Near the High- altar is a (nearly o^>osite to the Garden- Picture;, by Csiio Maratta, of the door) commands a magnificent Baptism of onr Saviour, much in* view; and from this s^ot part of jured by time ; and another of the Servius Tullius's Woul may be Martyrdom of S. Sebastian, by distinctly seen: it is built with Domenichino, in good preserva- peper^o, and supports an Agger, tion ! ! This Church also contains or broad Platform of earth, on the a fine Picture of the fall of Simon opposite side of which there evi- Magits, W Porapeio Baitoni ; and di^ly was a deep trench : and this another of S. Peter raising Tabitha, Wall extends from the foot of the by Placido Costanza. Casino to the end of the enclo- Tke Pope's Oil-Celkir, ^ear S'. sin-e near the Church of S». Maria Maria degli Augeli, merits notice, Vittoria. The Terrace probably i «8 it is a wdl preserved pai?t of was the site of the Mansion in Moclesian's Baths. - which Sallust resided ; and beyond

thin;- Tin xidi baA their persons rubbed f^radnally, before 4ie reached the Jlpodpte-

with oils »nd oiBtancents of great value. Hot wimm.

J^iitin wero enly used St a stated hour of the (^) The villas immediatelj wtthovt, and

tOKSODg. Eaeh man stopped at die hath which near to the city- walla, were caUed Suburbana,

he judged proper fer himsetf : and if he made tn epposition to these »t a di^n°B.

use irf tiie Lacomeum, J»e iwtirawd fhroogk (Aj) See ILtmis»Bai»» ^»*i«w««' <?r iw«e.

the diffeMrt teft bath«$ waSimm tinis vvm •

166 ROME. [CIi.VI»

this spot, toward the Porta-Pia, Baxberini, is a Path which presents

is a green uncultivated Hillock, a good view of the Circus: its

near the site of the ancient Porta- form may be clearly- traced ; and

Collina, and supposed to be the part of its Spina, once adorned

Campus ScderatuSy where Vestals with the Obelisk now erected be-

who broke their vows were en- fore the Church of Trinitat de'

tombed alive. The Hillock is with- Monti, is still discoverable^ A

in the ancient Agger, or boundarv Path on the left leads round the

of tiie City; and possibly the Vault base of the Casino to a Small

in which the polluted Vestals were Door, the entrance to Sallttafs Re-

entombed may still exist*. To the servoir of Water, with which his

left of the Hillock, on the descent grounds were irrigated ; and hence

toward the Circus of Sallust, is a a Path to the right leads up to the

ifefflW^o/jRwtn*, probably belonging Terrace.

to his Mansion, which seems to Another part of Sallust*s Do- have extended from the Casino- main (which is entered at a Gate Barberini to this spot. Below numbered " 2," in the Vicolo delle these Ruins is a Path on the left, Fiamme,) contains, on the right of which leads to a Temple, supposed the gate, a small Dwelling, under to have been dedicated to Venus- which itoo ancient Mosaic Pave^ Erycina^, The Walls and Roof m^ents are discoverable, together are perfect ; the Vestibule has two with what appear to have been Hot Niches for statues ; the Temple, Baths, -and a Furnace for heating its Cella excepted, is circular, with water ; and to the left of this six Niches for statues. The en- Dwellingis a long range "of vault- trance to the Cella has two large ed Apartments, resembling Baths Niches for statues, and what ap- and Keservoirs. pear to have been two small Niches : Some of the finest sculpture ex- the Cella contains one large Niche tant was found in the Gardens of for the statue of the goddess ; and Sallust.

the Door through which the Obelisk of S, Maria Maggiore^

Priests seem to have entered this This Obelisk is of red Egyptian

Cella communicates witii dark Granite; and forty-three reet in

Vaulted Passages, probaUy built height, without the Pedestal: it

for their use. Beyond the Temple, was brought to Rome by the Em-

and leading toward the Casino- peror Claudius ; and served as one

(x) pionysias of Halicarnassus gives tbe Porta^oUina. It had probably been de-

They

Goddess ; where every person of Doth sexes pie in question answers to the place where

may enter during the day; but no person of the Temple of Venus-Erjrcina seems to have

the male sex during the ni)(ht. The Vestals stood : and that there was a Temple of Venns

are ten years learning to execute their sacred in the Domain of Sallust appears certain, from

functions, ten years acting as Priestesses, and inscriptions published by Gruter. — See Lu<

ten years more teaching the young Vestals ; misdkk.

after which period (thirty years in all) they (l) SaUnst could not have placed this Obe-

are at liberty to resign their crowns and lisk on the Hpxna of his Circus : because he

marry ; very few, however, do this. A Vestal died six years before Egypt was conquered by

who breaks ner TOWS is stripped of her crown, Augustus; and consequentiy before anyobe-

fillets, and other holy ornaments, scourged, lisk was brought to Rome. It might hare

and then placed on a smitU couch, and fol- been erected by Claudius, or Aurelian. — See

lowed by her relatives to the Porta-CoUina ; Lumisden.

where, on arriving, she is clad in a funeral (m) Persons who wish to visit these Ruins

garb and entombed alive, in a subterranean immediately after having seen that part of

chamber, close to tbe City-wall, but within Sallust's grounds which contains his Circns,

it*" should, on retnmbg through the Garden-gate

(Jk) After the loss of the battle of Thrasy- near the Church of S*. Maria Vittoria, pasa

menus; the Romans vowed a Temple to Venus- that C%uroh« and tben go down the street on

Erycina, and bnilt it on the outside of the the light to the Viodo delle Fiumae.

Ch. VI.J ROME. 157

of the onmments to the Mauso- culiarly rich in maibles, paint-

. leum of Au^stus ; whence it was ings, and sc^ture. On the right

taken, by Sixtus V, and placed in stands the Tomb of the Pon-

its present situation. tiff, surmounted by his Statue:

Column im the Piazza di 5f*. here, likewise, are Statues of S.

Maria Maggiore. This Corinthian Basil and David, by Niccolo Cor-

fluted Column, of Parian marble, dieri; and the Tomb and Statue of

was (as already mentioned) taken Clement VIII ; with Statues of

from the Temple of Peace. Aaron and S. Bernardo, by Cor*

Basilica diS\ Maria Maggiore'^. dieri of Lorrain. The Pamtins^ This Church, which stands on the between the windows, and on the summit of the Esquiline Hill, was arches above the tombs, are by erected upon the foundations of an GuidoII The Altar of the Ma-, ancient temple of Juno-Lucina, donna is magnificently decorated about the year 352 ; and afterwards with oriental jasper, agate, and enlarged by Sixtus III. It was lapis lazuli ; and on its Entabla- likewise repaired by Benedict XIV; ture is a ^e Basso-rilievo. The who found, about eight palms be- Frescos above, and round the Al- low the pavement of uie Church, a tar, and in the vault and angles of black and white Mosaic Marble the Cupola, are by the Cav. d'Ar- Pavement, of that kind invented by pino. The Sforza-Chapel was de- Alexander Severus °. The Nave signed by Michael An^elo. This is supported by antique Ionic Co- Basilica is so loaded with gilding lumns, thirty- six of which are and other ornaments, that it re- white marble, and four granite, sembles a place of public diversion The BaJdacchino is supported by more than a Christian temple, antique Columns of Porphyry. The Obelisk of S. Oiovanni in Late' arch which separates tihie Choir rano. This obelisk, covered with from the Nave is decorated with Hieroglyphics, is the largest at Mosaics of the fifth century. The Rome ; and supposed to have been Chapel of Sixtus V, bmlt after the even more lofty once, than it is at designs of Fontana, is encrusted present. It was originally placed with fine marbles, and adorned in the Temple of the Sun, at with Corinthian Pilasters, Bassi- Thebes, by Ramises, King of Egypt, rilieviy and Paintings. On the transported to Rome by the Son of ri^ht stand theTomb and Statue of Constantine, and erected, in its Sixtus V : in the middle is the present situation, by Sixtus V: its Altar of tlie Holy Sacrament, en- height, without base or pedestal, riched with a magnificent Taber- is one hundred and fifteen English nacle, supported by four Angels of feet, and its diameter nine p. bronze gilt; and on the left, the Baitisterlo di Costantino. This Tomb of Pius V. Among the Edifice was built by Constantine, Paintings those most admired are, and repaired by Gregory XIII, and the Annunciation, by Pompeio Bat- Urban VIII : its form is octagon ; toni, and the Holy Family, by and three steps lead down to the Agostino Masucci. The Bor^hese- Font, which appears to have been Chapel, built by Paul V, is pe- an ancient Sarcophagus. The

{n) 9eyeral of these ancient Courts of Jus- the inventor. Mosaics, however, seem to have

tice, called Basilicce^ were converted into been originally invented by the Persians ;

charches, and still retain their original appel- for they were used in Persia during the reign

lation; probably because ancient churches Of Artaxerzes; thence carried into Assyria,

were sometimes provided with tribunals. thence to Greece, and, some ages after, to

BasilicsB are usually open from sunrise till Rome. . . ^ .

sunset (») According to Vasi, its height is only

(o) The Mosaic Pavements of the middle ninety-niac Farw feet, without base or pedes-

>ge« were called Opm Alemmdrinum, from tal.

15d ROME. tCtVL

Dome ia supported by fine Por- sion of our Saviour into Hearen t

phyry Columns, with an antique The Tabernacle, forttied of pre-

fentablature ; and contains Paint- * cious marbles, is placed between

ings representing the Life of S. two Angels of bronze gilt, and

John Baptist, by Andrea Sacchi. four Columns of verde antique.

Other Pamtings, on the Walls, re- At the top of the centre aisle,

present the Vision of Constantine ; near the high-altar, are two su-

Ms battle with Maxentius; and perb Columns of red granite;

the Destruction of the Idols; which and, near the door leading to the

last is by Carlo Maratta. In one Baptistery, two fluted Columns of

of the Chapels are two curious Giallo Antico, considered as the

fluted Pillars of Verde antique ; in finest specimens extant of that mar-

the other, two columns of Oriental ble. In this Church are the Tombs

of the Cav. d' Aipino, Andrea Sao-

Alabaster- and the original en- trance to this Baptistery is adom-

chi, and Boniface VIII ; the last

ed with two noble Pillars of Por- of which is ornamented with a

phyry and an antique entabla- Fresco, supposed to have been

ture. done by Giotto, and representing

Basilica dt S, Giovanni in Late- Boniface, between two Cardinals,

rano\ This stately Edifice was publishing the first Jubilee of the

erected by Constantine ; and called Holy Year, in 1300. The Corsini-

the Mother Church of Rome ; Chapel (to the left of the great

though the Church of S. Martin door) is particularly elegant ; and

and S. Luke is really so. Un- was erected by Clement XII, in

der the great Portico is a semi-, honour of his ancestor S. Andrea

colossal Statue of Constantine, Corsini. Over the Altar, between

found in his Baths ; the Front of two verde antique Columns, is a

the Building, toward the Naples- Portrait, in Mosaic, beautifully co-

fate, is beautiful ; and the Bronze- pied from a Painting by Guido, of oor, ornamented with Bassi-ri- S. Andrea Corsini. On one side lievi, was (according to general of the Chapel is the Monument of belief) taken fi-om the Temple of Clement Xll; said to have been Saturn. The interior of the Church once the Tomb of Agrippa : it was is divided, by four rows of pilas- taken fi^m the Pantheon ; and is, ters, into one large and four small in point of shape, the most beau- aisles ; and the centre aisle, or tiful Sarcophagus extant. On the nave, is adorned with Statues of opposite side, stands the Tomb of the Apostles; among which are Cardinal Neri Corsini. In this Saints Thomas and Bartholomew, Chapel, likewise, are four Statues, by LeGros; and S. Andrew, S. representing the four Cardinal Vir- James minor, and S. John, by tues ; one of which. Fortitude, is Rusconi. The Pavement is Mo- by Rusconi, and much admired ; saic. The Altar of the Holy Sa- as are the four Bassi-riiievi in the crament is adorned with four mag- upper part of the Chapel. Tlie nificent fluted Columns of bronze lavement is beautiful ; and the ffftt, supposed to have l)een taken Subterranean Part of this Building from the Temple of Jupiter Capi- merits notice ; as it is simple and tolinus; and, above these co- u)propriate, and contains a fine lumns, is a Fresco, by tiie Cav. Pieta. In the Sacristy of S. Gio- d* Arpino, representing the Ascen- vanni in Laterano is an Annun-

(q) The name of Laterano is supposed to been confiscated, _j>robably remained in {km-

be aerived from Plawtius Latenwus, Coosal session of the Cfmpeiors tiU Constantine

elect, wbo ei^agad with Seneca and others gave it to the Churcn, and biiilt the Baailies

in the ereat conspiracy against Nero, and of S. QiovaiuUi properly thtf Pope*8 Cathe-

thereby lost bis life : hence his palace, haying dral.

€K. ^n.]

ROMfii

IS*

/ .

6ift1ioii, desired, if Hot executed* by Michael Angelo.

Scala Santa. This Edifice is celebrated for containing twenty- eight steps of white marble, re- puted to hAve belonged to the Palace of Pilate 1 they were co- vered with planks of wood, by order of Clement XII, to prevent their being worn out by the multi- tudes of persons who ascend them On their knees.

Not far hence is an Arch, or Tribune, adorned with Mosaics, originally placed in the Triclinium, or eating room of the palace of S. Leo, to perpetuate the event of his having crowned Charlemagne Emperor of the west.

AnfiteatroCastrmse. This Build- ing now makes part of Aureli- an*s Wall repairei by Honorius ; though it formeriy stood on the outside of the City: it was called Amphitheatrum Castrense, because appropriated to military games, and combats between sol- diers and wild'-beasts. The inte- rior of the Building may be seen in a Grarden on the ri^t of the Church of S'. Croce in Gerusa- lemme ; nothing, however, remains, except a few Arches. The exte- rior part, which was ornamented with two rows of columns, should be viewed firom the outside of the Naples-gate.

Basilica di Santa Crode in Oe- rusalemme. This Church, one of the seven BnsiliccB of Rome, was erected by Constintine near an ancient Sessorium; which seems to have been converted into the entrance of the Church ; and Makes a magidficent Vestibule. The approach from S. Giovanni in Laterano to S*. Croce in G«ru- salemme, is particularly handsome ; and displays fine remains of the dncient Walls of Rome : the Church derives its name from

part of the Cross which 6. ftelenA brought from Jerusalem, anddepo* sited here. On each side of the great door is a Vase for holy water, very Similar to those in the Cathe* dral at Siena ; and, like them, containing Marble Fishes beauti- fully executed. The Nave is sup- ported by eight fine Columns of Egyptian ^anite ; and its Ceiling adorned with a Fresco by Conrad Giaquinto ; who likewise painted that part of the Ceiling of the IVibima which is over the High- altar: the other part was done by Pinturicchio, and represents the finding of the Cross. The High-altar is adorned with four rare Columns of breccia corallina, and an ancient Sarcophagus of basalt. The Pavement of the Church is antique. This Edifice contains the Subterranean Chapel of S. Helena, decorated with curi- ous ancient Mosaics, and an In- scription in her honour.

On the right, coming out of the Church, (in a Garden,) are consi- derable remains of a Building, called the Temple of Ventus and Cupid; but, more probably, one of the Halls, or Temples, which adorned the Baths of S. Helena. This Garden likewise exhibits magnificent remains of the Ctau- dian Aqueduct ; and, not far hence, was an Altar consecrated to Evil Pbrtune.

Chiesa di S". Sibiana '. Here are eight antique Columns ; and a fine antique Sarcophagus of ori- ental alabaster, with a leopard's head in the centre : and here, like- wise, is a celebrated Statue of S*. Bibiana, by Bernini.

Tempio di Minerva » Medica. This picturesque ruin stands on the Esquiline Hill, in a Garden, the door of which is generally open. TTie Edifice is round with- out, but decagon within ; and

(r) It is difieolt to fain admission to tiria Clkarch, unless it be yery earl/

in the moning.

160 • . • JIOME* • [Ch.yT.

seems to have had ten windows and rtiin of a Casiellum of one of these nine niches for statues. Here was Aqueducts, found a celebrated Statue of Mi- Ckiesa di S, Prassede, The nerva with the Serpent at her feet. High-altar of this ancient Edi«  which Statue now enriches the iice is adorned with a handsome Vatican Museum ; but whether Baldacchino, supported by four this Edifice was, or was not, a line Colunms of Porphyry; the Temple dedicated to Minerva- Tiibuna contains ancient Mo- Medica, seems uncertain ; though sales ; and leadinj^ to it are mag^ Rufiis, and Victor, place her Tem- nificent Steps of Rosso Antico, pie on the Esqvdline Hill. Judg- composed of the largest .blocks mg, however, by the Statues of extant of that rare marble, the iEsculapius, Pomona, Adonis, Fauns of the Capitol and- Vatican Venus, Hercules, Antinous, and excepted. In this Church is a the Faun, foimd here, this Build- Column, supposed to be that our ing must have been decorated with Saviour was fastened to, when peculiar magnificence. scourged. In the Sacristy is a . Between the Temple and the Painting of the Fla^llation, by Porta Ma^ore, in the same Gar- Giulio Romano ; and in one of the den,is?iUofumbariumconstrucied Chapels are tln*ee Paintings re- ly Lucius Aruntius, (who was lative to the Life of S. Carlo Consul under Augustus,) as a Borromeo, by an English painter, receptacle for the asnes of himself, named Sterne : they are well ex- his relatives, and freedmen. It ecuted, and dated 1741. This consists of two small Subterranean Church leads to the Catacombs. Chambers ; in one of which are Campidoglio; The Hill, ori- / Niches, (shaped like pigeon-holes,) ginally called Mons-Satumiits, and for cinerary urns ; and on the afterwards Tarpeius, from Tarpeia, ' Roof of the other are remains of who admitted the Sabines into Stucco Ornaments, and Paintings, the fortress erected there, was. Contiguous to Ihis, is a Colum- according to tradition, likewise barium^ which consists of one denominated Capitolium, because Subterranean Chamber only ; sup- when Tarquin the elder ordered posed to have been a public re- the foundations of a temple of ceptacle for the ashes of the Jupiter to be laid on this spot. Plebeian Dead ; which were the workmen, while digging, found consigned to common earthen- a human skull : in consequence of ware urns, simply inscribed with which, the augurs predicted that a name, and an exclamation of Rome wotdd become mistress of sorrow. the world. But although the

Arco di Gallieno, commonly whole Hill was called Capitolintts,

called Arco di S, Vito. Accord- Livy distinguishes the Arx, or

ing to the Inscription on this Citadel, from the Capitolium,

Arch, it was erected in honour The former stood on the eminence

of the Emperor whose name it toward the Tiber; the latter on

bears. It is Doric ; and proves the eminence toward the Quirinal ;

the decline of architecture in the and between these was Romulus*s

days of Gallienus. Common Asylum for criminals of

Remains of five Aqueducts are various denominations,

discoverable in this Quarter of the When we recollect the number

Cihr ; namely, the Mardan, Te- of splendid edifices which adorned

pufan, Julian, Claudicm, and the the ancient Capitol, we are led to

Anio-novus ; and near the Church think its extent must have been

of S, Eusebio is a considerable immense : but when we view the

Ch;Vt] AOMfe 161

spot, and see how circumscribed Senate, Consuls, and Emperors of

it is» we can only account for the Rome. It appears that several

number of its temples by conclud- steps led up to this Edifice ; which

ing that here, as in various parts Nuxlini places on the eminence

of the City, one was frequently where now stands the Chmxsh of

destroyed to make room for ano- 4he Ara Coeli ; and the temple of

then Scipio Nasica surrounded Jupiter Feretrius he supposes to

the Square of the ancient Capitol have stood behind the Palazzo de^

with Porticos ; and in its centre Conservatori. Donatus, however,

45tood the Triumphal Arch of Nero, precisely reverses the manner of

The most ancient Temple was that placing them : his opinion is con-

of Jupiter Feretrius •, built by firmed by Fabretti ; who thinks

Romulus ; and its interior dimen- he discovered the foundations of

sions are reported to have been the Temple of Jupiter CapitoHnus

only ten Pans feet in length, and when the CafPerelli family levelled

five in breadth. Dionysius of Ha- the ground between their Palazzo

licamassus says, ** Romulus, after and that of the Conservatori : and« 

his first triumph, erected a Tem- jud^ng from the report of Dio-

ple on the summit ^f the Capito- nysius of Halicamassus, we have

line Hill, in honour of Jupiter reason to conclude that the Tem« 

Feretrius ; and, judging by the pie of Jupiter Feretrius certainly

present remains, this Duilding was was raised by Romulus on that

diminutive ; the greatest extent of eminence where Donatus places it.

its walls being less than fifteen Moreover, the Temple of Jupiter

feet/* The temple of Jupiter Ca- Capitolinus is said to have oeen

pitolinus, finished by Tarquinius well preserved during the reign of

Superbus, and afterwards conse- Honorius; and not entirely de^

crated by the Consul Horatius stroyed till the eleventh centuiy;

Pulvillus, was much larger ; and therefore we may suppose its

when consumed by lightning, massive foundations to have been

which happened more than once, so far perfect when the Caffe« 

. seems to have encreased in ma^-» relli family levelled the ground^

nitude every time it rose from its that Fabretti, knowing from an-*

ashes. The last person who re^ cient historians the dimensions of

built this Temple was Domitian, the Temple in question, and the

and he is said to have expended manner in which its foundations

twelve thousand talents merely in were laid, was likely to form an

gilding it. Here were deposited accurate judgement as to whether

the spoils of conquered nations, he had or nad not discovered them ^

^as offerings to the gods from the Some antiquaries, however, main-

(0 THe word Feretriutt is supposed, by of Victory, which is said to have weighed

Dionysius of Ualicftrnassas, to signify, above three hundred and twenty^ight pounds.

alt. Lnmisden supposes we have an elevation of

(if) Dion]r8ius of Halicamassus, when men- the Portico of the Temple of Jupiter Capito-

tioning this Temple, says; " It was erected linus preserved in one of the Basxi-rilievi of

to Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva, on a rugged Marcus Aurelius's Triumphal Arch, which

j)art of the Capitoline Hill, made capable to Bauo-rilxevo is now placed in the Wall of the

■nstainitsfoundationsby means of high walls* Staircase of the Palazzo de' Conservatori.

and an extensive terrace.** He likewise Lumisden likewise mentions that in the wall

speaks of its size as immense; and so does of the Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus, on the

Livy. The Edifice consisted of three Temples ; side next to Minerva's altar, the chief magis-

tbat in the centre being dedicated to Jupiter, trate of Rome drove a nail annually on the

that on the right to Minerva, and that on the Ides of September; whereby they reckoned

left to Juno. Statues of these divinities, re- the Years of the State according to the nam-

S resented as sitting on chairs, were placed in ber of nails; and he adds that the Roman

eir respective Temples, and originally made peasants long continued to reckon their own

of potters' clay ; but Trajan exchanged them and their chiidrens* ages by driving naiis mtqr

for statues of gold : and here likewise, in th« the walls of their cottages. dayi of th« Emperors, wai a Golden Statue

M

162 ROME. [Cl|.yi.

tain that this Edifice stood on the gustus. On the same tine like*

north side of the CapitoUne HilU wise are Statues of the two Sons

near the Temple of Juipiter Fere- of Constantine, together with two

trius. Here also were the Tern- Roman Milestones ; that num-

ples of Jupiter-Moneta, Fortutoa* bered " I," and standing on the

Primo - genita, Fortuna » Privataf right, being the Column which an*

Fortuna - Viscola, Vejovis, Isis, ciently marked the first mile of the

Serapis, &c., embellished by sta- Via-Appia; that on the left mo*

tues iwithout and within ; so that dem. In the centre of the Square

the Capitol was denominated The is a Bronze Equestrian Statue^

Hall of the Gods ». But of these once gilt, of Marcus Aurelius ' ///

magnificent edifices scarce a wreck This is the only antique Bronze

remains; therefore the modem Equestrian Statue extant, except

Capitol bears no resemblance to Fragments found at Pompeii,

the ancient. The present Steps Fronting the Steps is the Senator^s

and Two Side Buildings of the Palace, which stands on the ruins

latter were planned by Michael of the TahtUarium"', or Reposi*

Angelo, at the command of Paul tory for the Tables of the Laws :

III ; and the Front of the Senator's and under the Entrance-door is

Mansion was likewise rebuilt afler a Statue of Rome triumphant, in

the design of Michael Angelo. At Parian marble draped with pel:-

the bottom of the Steps are two phyry, a recumbent Statue of the

Lionesses in basalt, of Egyptian Nile, and anoth^ of the Tiber,

workmanship ; and on the left side both in Greek marble. On the

two Arches under which are lai^e south side of the Square is the

stones, supposed to have made Palazzo de' Conservatori ; and on

part of the Foundation of the the north the Museo Capitolino.

Temple of Jupiter Feretrius. On Beyond the former are Steps which

the top of the Steps are two Co- lead up to the spot where, accord-

lossal Statues, reputed to be Greek ing to Donatus, and Fabretti,

sculpture ; but more probably Ro-* stood the Temple of Jupiter Ca-

man : one represents Castor, and pitolmus ; near which in a Garii

the other Pollux, with their re- den, belon^g to a house num*?

spective Horses. On a line with bered 139, is mat part of the Tar->

these Statues are beautifully ex- peian roek whence, it is supposed,

ecuted Trophies, called those of criminals were thrown down into

Harius ; but rathar supposed to the Forum \ The Garden fronts

have been done in honour of Tra- CaraeaUa's Baths ; and the Rock,

jan's victories over the Dacians. in this place, may, perhaps, be

They once adorned a Castellum of sixty feet hi^h at the present mo^

the Julian Aqueduct, and Pira- ment ; and formerly it must evi-

nesi calls them Trophies of Au- dently have been much more ; as

(«) It appears, from IHonysius of Halicar* Temple of Jupiter Capitolinaii, and likewiM

nasstis, that the Camtoline Hill also abounded in the Atrium JAhertatit^ (which seemg t»

ftrith JEdictd^, eacn of. which contained an have stood on the Aventine HiU,) yet the j

Altar raised to some Divinity, or protecting had a particular Building for that purposAi

l^enius: but these Edifices were not conse- called, in consequence, Tahvlarium. Th« 

crated like Temples. laws of Numa were engraved on TaUee<^

(v) It was found near the Scala Santa, on Oak, colnmns of bran not being then in use*

the spot where the house of his grandfather, See Lumisdbn's Anti<nAtiet ^R4me, Anniug Verus, is said to have stood. Wino< {x) Dionysius of Halicamassus records that

kelmann supposes the Statue of the Horse to Casitins, condemned for conspiring against

be more ancient than that of the Emperor, the State in the twenty-third year after th9

and particularly praises the Head of the expulsion of its Kings, was thrown down, ia

^orse. presence of the People, £rom IJm Rock ovei-

(jwS Although the Romans placed mainr of looking tk9 Fonia*

the Tables of their Laws in the Portico of the ~

/

/.-

Ch. VI.^ ROME. 163

tiie level of the Fonim is fiiA rupted intd Aracoelk The' Choir, twenty feet h^^ now, than it behind the High-ahar, contains & was originally. Besides whioh» Picture foy Raj^mel, of the Holy large masses of the uppo* part of Family, which was iiMured, ana the Tarpeian Rock hlave repeatedly has been ill restored. The Chapd fallen down, as Livy and other of S. FranceiNM) is finely pitintad writers record. The neighbouring by Trevisani : and here likewise is I)oor, numbered 141 » leads to a 4 Chapel painted by Pintwicchio, Gaixien where the Bjock may b^ und Lucca Signorelu. «een to more advantage than at Ckiesa 4i S. Pialro in QatMf^ / No. 139 ; and immediately uncter w, more pr(^[)erly, OMmw tk iSL '-"' wMch are Caves: one of these Oiuseppe. On die ri^t, ^ng has, in its roof, an Aperture, down from tiie Capitohne Hill td ^rmed like a large dumney ; it this Church, aire Large Stones be- seems to have extended to the longing to the T<xMm4$im; part summit of the B.ock ; and may, of the Doric Portico of which may perhaps, have been the ftmnel of be se^ fronting the Porum. Un* one of the Subterraneous Depo* der the Church is a Prison, built %itories, called Fdt)t>«<^, where the by Ancus Ktartius, and called if Bexsred Statues of the Capitol^ Varcene Mamertino^ it is of am when injured by time, or accintent, oMong shape, about twenty-fiv^ ^wev^ interred ; because it was Paris feet in length, e^teen wida^ deemed eacrilegious to destroy and thirteen high. To this, Ser» 4hem ^ ^us TulHus added a Lower Dun^ CM^m Ai S'. MaHad^Aracodi, geon, (called alter him, the TwtttV ^supposed to stand o«, or near, the anum,) for great otienders ; wheiH site of the Temple of Jupiter Fe^ S. Peter suffered imprisonment 5 retritis. The Steps leading up to iawi where, near a Small Columik this Chureh from the side of the to which the Apostle waa bound, Campus Martins are an hundred is a Spring of Water, repiorted to and twenty-fbur in number ; and have issued forth miraculouaiy^ 4he marble of which th^ are com- that he might baptize the twd posed was taken chiefly from the gaol^s, and forty-seven of his Temple of Jupiter-QuMrinus, oA fellow prisonan, all of whom the Quirinal Hill. The interior of afterwards suffa^ martyrdom, the ^ificc is supportjedby twenty- In the vaulted Roof of each fti* two antique Columns, chiefly son is an Aperture sudbient^ composed of Egyptian granite; large for a mwi to pass througl^ ^nd file third Column on Ihe left it : and criminals are supposed to (entering by the great door) bears have been let down and drawn up this Inscription : " A Cvincvlo through this aperture by means of Avgustftrwn"'*, It is said that, cords*; no ancient staircase be^- AiSustus, about the time of our ing discovwahle; though eadi

Saviour's birth, erected near this dungeon is accessible by means ef

spot an A.ltar, under ti» name of modem stairs. Th« Tul^imum k Am Primogeniti Dei, now cor^ about six Paris feet m height, a»il

(v^ In order to see these Caves, go from we know that the Cloaca-Maxima was con-

the Korawi Romanura toward the Piazza deUa structed with stoneB hewn from the Tarpeian

CoosolasioBe ; and, at the end of the Pia»za, Rock ; and hkewxee that «tonM of a Mnuteir

t«rn to the riifht, op Via di Monte-Capriiio; descr^ptKWi were e»pioyed la other *uiMuifp.

and, enter at the top of the street, au Arch- till peperinoc^nue into use.

way, which leads to the Cave«; where the ^(*) The 0«6tc«/an. were «*^" ^. «!?

ApirtBre abov^mentioned may be diBCorcwd. bed-cliaiB^er baoiwng 2 ^^J^JJJ^jJJfn'^^^

These Caves, however, seam too extensive to (a) A Prison, w^t»»/»"?^^^¥rKaui tto

iave been nothing more than Favissa ; per- roof may be seen, under the Tribunal, m xiu»

164 ROME. tCh.VI.

not above eighteen in diameter. On . the * Staircase, opposite to Large volcanic stones put toge- these rooms, are four Bassi-ri^ ther without cement, compose this lievi, which originally belonged to terrific prison ; which, like that the Triumphal Arch of Marcus above it, is quite perfect, and well Aurelius, on the Corso ; here worth seeing ; though cold and likewise is a BcLsso-rilievo^ (found damp. in the Forum,) of Ourtius devoting Palazzo del Senatore di Roma, himself to the Dii manes ; and, on. The view from the Tower which the Landing-place, are two more crowns this Building particularly Bassi-rilievi, taken from the Arch merits notice ; as it exhibits all the of -Aurelius. ancient Edifices of the City, and On this Landing- Place is a shews their respective situations. Door which leads to the Apart- Palazzo de" Conservatori. In ments not open to the Public, but the Quadrangle, beyond the Ar- which the Custode is happy to cade, are Statues of Rome tri- shew for a trifling gratuity, umphant, and the weeping Pro- The first room contains Paint- vince ! — ^two Dacian Krags, and ings, by the Cav. d'Arpino ; name- two Egyptian Divinities, idl in the ly, the Battle of the Horatii and same hne : the two latter were Curiatii — ^the Battle of Tullus Hos- found in the Gardens of Sallust. tilius with the Army of Veii ! — ^the The Quadrangle likewise contains Discovery of Romulus and Remus a Group of a Lion devouring a — Romulus founding Rome — ^the Horse ! found near the outside of Sacrifice of Numa. Pompilius, and the Porta S. Paolo, and restored tiie Institution of the Vestal Vir- by Michael Angelo — ^the Bust, and gins ; — and the Rape of the Sa- one Hand, of a colossal Statue of bines.

Commodus — the Bust of Domitian The second room contains Paint-

— and immense Feet and one ings by Laureti ; namely, Junius

Hand of a mutilated colossal Sta- Brutus condemning his Sons to

tue of Apollo. The Arcade con- death for having conspired against

tains a Statue of Julius Caesar — the Republic — Horatius Codes,

Ditto of Augustus, done appa- on the Sublician Bridge, opposing

rently after the battle of Actium, the Etrurians — ^Mutius Scsevola

judging by the prow of a gal- burning his own hand in presence

ley on its Pedestal — a Bacchante of Porsena, after having lolled one

— a Rostral Column, originally of the Etrurian Officers, whom

placed in the Forum, in ho- he mistook for the King — and the

nour of Caius Duillius, the first Battle in which the Tarquins were

Roman who gained a naval vie- defeated.

tory for his country — and a Lipn 2%5Mi>fl?roo7» contains a Frieze on a Pedestal, which bears an representing the Triumph of Ma- Inscription of the time of Adrian, rius, by Daniello da Volterral — ^a To the right of the Arcade is an Picture of S*. Francesca Romana, Apartment called the Protomoteca, by Romanelli ; and a dead Christ, and consisting of ei^ht rooms, by Cosimo Piazza — the Statue of recently embellished with Busts of the Bronze Wolf, said to have illustrious Characters, now, no been struck with lightning when more. Several of these Busts CsBsar fell ! This statue, already were removed hither, from the mentioned as the work of an Pantheon, by Pius VII ; and Leo Etruscan Artist, is evidently of . XII, (as already mentioned,) has high antiquity ; and one of the dedicated the Protomoteca to the legs of the Wolf bears marks of use of the Arcadian Academy. liquefaction by a stroke of light-*

Ch. vij Rome; les

ningb — a bronze Bust of Junius the four Evan^lists, by Caravag-

Brutus ! ! — two Mosaic Tables eio, together with an Altar-piece,

taken from Adrian*s Villa — a mo- By Nucci.

dem Bust of Julius Caesar — a The next story of this building

bronze Statue of a Youth, sup- contains the Picture GcUlery,yr\iiSi

nosed to represent the ShepheiS, is open to the Public every Mon« 

Martius, extracting a thorn from day and Thursday, Festivals ex-

his foot!! — ^group of Diana- TVt- cepted, at the fifth hour before

formis ^ — a modem Bust of Adrian sunset, and remains open four

— and a Basso-rilievo representing hours.

the Temple of Janus, or, according In an open Gallery, leading to

to some opinions,^ the Gate of the door of entrance to the rooms

Eternity. containing the Pictures, are the

TA«/oiiWA room contains a Bust Modem Fasti Consulares; and

in hasso-rilievo, of Mithridates ! — likewise a beautiful small Basso-

z.nd the Fasti Consulares'^// rilievo, executed in the time of

The fifth room contains a Bust, Pertinax, and representing Romu

in rosso antico, called Theseus — a lus and Remus suckled • by the

Bust of Michael Angelo — a Bust Wolf.

of Medusa, by Bernini — ^and a Bust Some of the most striking Pic-

of Tiberius ; together with two tures in the first room are ; No. 2,

Ducks, in bronze, said to have the Madonna, our Saviour, and

been found in the Tarpeian Rock, Saints, copied by Bonatti, from

and to be the representation of Paolo Veronese — 4, the Sacrifice

those ducks which saved the Ca- of Iphigenia, by Pietro da Cortona

pitol. Here, likewise, are the fol- — 5, the Portrait of a Lady, by

lowing Paintings : a Holy Family, Bronzino— 6, S. Lucia, by Benve-

by Giulio Romano ; and the Olym- nuto Garofolo I — 9, Vani^, by Ti-

pic Games, attributed to Zuccari. tian ! — 1 5, the Rape of the Sabines,

The sixth room contains a Frieze by Pietro da Cortona I — 1 8, a Por-

painted byAnnibale Caracci, and trait, by Velasquez — 33, Hagar

representing the Military Achieve- driven from the house of Abra-

ments of Scipio Africanus — Ro- ham, by Francesco Mola — 36,

man Tapestry, from the designs of Charity, by AnnibaJe Caracci !—

Rubens — Busts of Sappho ! So- 37, Bacchus and Ariadne, School

crates ! Ariadne ! and Sabina Pop- of Guido — 38, the Sibyl Persica,

paea! the second wife of Ner6. by Guercino ! ! — ^39, the Madonna,

The seventh room contains Fres- our Saviour, S. Cecilia, and other

cos by Pietro Perugino, who has Saints, by Annibale Caracci ! —

represented Hannibal in Capua — 40, the Madonna, our Saviour,

Rome triumphant over Sicily, <^. and S. Francesco, by Annibale

Here, likewise, are Statues of Vir- Caracci— 41, the Holy Family,

gil, Cicero, Cybele, ^. by Benvenuto Garofolo — 42, Maiy

T?ie eighth apartment is a Magdalene washing our Saviour*8

Chapel, on the Ceiling of which feet ; a Miniature, by M. F. Zi-

Caravaggio has represented the baldi Subleras, copied from the

Deitv. Here, also, are Paintings original of her husband ! — 43, the

of S. Cecilia, by Romanelli I and Marriage of S. Catehna, by Cor-

(V) Cicero tells us, that, in hie time, the mains of anticraity were found, duiing the

turrets of the Capitol, the statues of the gods. Pontificate of Paul III, near the Church of

and the image of the infant Romulus sucking Sa. Maria Liberatrice, in the Forum Ro-

the wolf, were struck down bv lightning. manum ; and nine fragmento more were

(c) Emblematical of her sovereignty oyer found in 1816. near the Columns supposed to

HeU, Earth, and Heaven. have belonged to the Cav^xttHm* . (d) The mtkjor part of these precious re-

Uei ROMEi fCh Vt,

4

r9fsgtO'^4^ the Madoimft loxl out memchino ; (parts of this small

^ariour, by Albano! — 45, S\ picture are beautifuj)— §8, aLaad^

Maria Maddalena, by Tintoretto ! sca^e, by Claude — ftO.aPre^qwdV

-**46» David with the Head of by Garofolo — 62, the Madonna,

Goliath, hy Romanelli — 48, the our Saviour, and S. John, by

GoiBmunion of S. Girolamo, by Ditto— 63, the Juc^ment of Solo*.

Agostino Caracci I — dl» S. John n^on, by Giacomo Bassaao-^65»

Baptist, by DanieUo da Yolterra I the raising of S. Petronilla^a

92, Christ disputing with the Doc- Corse from the grave, and the

tors, by Valentin ! — 53, the Cun ascension of heir Spirit into Hea-

wanuL Sibyl, hy Domeniohino I — ven, by Guercin© I ! I— 72, a Gipsy,.

•0,. B. John Baptist^ by Guereino telling a Youth his fortune, by C*-.

««s-e3, a Landscape, with the Fi- ravaggio ! — 73, the Madonna, our

jifure of the Magdalene, Caracci Saviour, atid Ang;els» by Peru-

Sehool — 64, the Magdalene^ by gino — 76, a* Sc4m^ seated^ 1^

Albano — 65, the Triumph of Bac- Salvator Rosa — 77 y a half-length

chus» by Pietro da Cortona — 67,. %ure of S. Girdbmo, by Pietro

8. Cec2ia> by Romandli — 70» the Pacini — 78, a Portrait of Pe*

beatified Spirit, by Guido!-^76| traroa, by Giovanni BeUine— 79,,

Remvdus and Remus discovered a Landseape, by Dom^chtiio-^.

ytiih the Wolf,, attributed to Ru- 80, a Portrait of Michael Angel^y

^ens-^86,^ the Madonna adormg by himself r-^82» a Portrait oi;Gio>n

©ur Saviour, by Pietro da Cortona vanni BeUino, by himself — 86, a

-^8«k a Portrait, by Titian— 90, Witch^ by Salvator Rosa— 89, S.

Mdeager in (fkdwv-seuro,. by Px)li- Sebastiano^ by Lodovico Caraoei.

4101*0 da Caravaggio. — 93, Augustus and Cleopatra^ by^

Some of the most striking Pie* Guercii[io<^l09, S*^. Biurbara, a

tuves in th» seeofid taom are; half-length figure^ by DcHnenichina

No* 2", a Co^y of Raphael's Ga- — 1 11 , die. Holy Family, by Parmi-.

latea, by Pietro da Cortona — ^6, gianino-— 113, S. CristofOro, by

tiie Adoration of the Magi, by Ga- Tintoretto*— 1 14, S. Ceeilia, by Lo-*

rofolo — ll,aLajid$capeibyClaud0 dovico: Caracci! — 116, two Phi^

X^earrain-*- 12, Ditto, by Ditto< — losophers, by Calabrese — 120, the

Sfi Love^by Guide— 33, an Bec» Graces* by Palma Giovane-^123,

Uomoy by &aroccio-^a7, the Wo- Europa* by Paolo Veronese !

niaa detected in AduM^, by Ti- Museo Capikdino^ open to the-

tian — 40, Europa, by Guide I-^ Publ^ on the same days, and at

41, Alexander's Victory over Da- the same hours, as the Picture

rius, by Pietro da Cortona I — 43, Gallery;- and admittance ms^

a Head% by Titian — 44, Polyphe- usuallv be obtained on days when

Butsv by Guido— 47, the Presenta^ the Museum is not open to the

tien in the Temple, supposed to Public, l^ an afH^ieation to the

be by Fra Bartolomeo— -48, the Custode ; who^ if thus called upon.

Holy Family^ by Andrea Sacehi eatpeets a fee K

-<rd7, the Pool of Siilome, by Do« Some of the most striking ef-

(e) This \» a repreflentatkHi of o«r Saviour Mnseatiia of the Capitol and Vatican to M'^

in the man^r, attended by the blessed VirgiD, yantaga Aould visit them hy torchlight; as

Joseph, ^c. There is another kind of Prese- the torch, like Promethean fire, makes every

pio exhibited in Roman Catholic Countries at statue live ; in consequence of which, per-

C^ritffaas % and oonsisting of our Saviour, as h&pa, the most stupenaous eAwts of the ura-

an I^nfant, the blened Virgin, Joseph^ the wise ciata chisel wore orig inally placed in sabtter-

Men of the East, camels, ^c. ; all wrought in ranean baths^

wan, and sometimes well executed. The best For seeing the Vatieaa Mnsenm^ four larg« 

oC theM exhibitions at B4>me is in the Chnseh- wax torches, weighing about three ponndsand

of S«. Maria d'Amcfisli. a half each, and costuog altog^etiber about si^

C/) Those persons who wish to see the sevdi^ aca requtsitw. 1^'or veetng the tfaaesaia

Oh. vi.i

romb;

Uf

forts of the chisel m this mi^fi* seum by Pius VII. No. 13, a square

cent CoUeotion, for which Kome Altar, supposed to be an Etruscan

is indebted to Clement XII, are ; work, representing the Labours of

Quadrangle; No. 1, a colossal Hercules.

Statue of Oceanus ! ». Setxmd room. No. 1 , the Family

Arcade; No. I, Endymion and Sepulchre of Genesius Marcianus,

his Dog, the pedestal fine — 3, a (Father of Alexander Severus,)

colossal Statue of Minervfr— 4, and his wife, Julia Mammsea.

fragment of a Statue of Hercules t Some of the BasH-riliem which

— 5, Apollo — ^7, a Bacchante, semi-* adorn this immense Sarcophagus

eolosstil. are fine. — 3, a Disk, with Basii'

Over ike Door of ike Director's rilieviy representing the life of

^ffartmeni four Consular Fasces. Achilles, and found near what is

Wo. 9, the Dacian Province— 10, supposed to have been the site of

a colossal Head of Cybele, found the Temple of Jupiter Feretrius !-—

in Adrian's Villa — 12, the Capital 4, an ancient Mosaic, found near

of a Doric column, taken n*om Antium, and representing Hercules

Caracalla*s Baths — 17, Isis, in rare vanquished by Love ! — 5, a Satyr

basalt,, found in the Gardens of with a pipe — H, Pluto and Cer-

Sallust — ^20, Diana — ^21, Hercules berus, found in Titus*s Baths f —

->~22, Isis, in red oriental granite, 13, a Baeso-rilievo of Poppsa, se-

found in the Gardens of S^ust-— .cond wife of Nero — 14, a Medallion

29, a colossal Statue of Diana — of Nero.

25, Polyphemus — 26, Mercury — Staircase, No. 1, a Statue of

27, a Sepulchral Urn — 28, Adrian Modesty, or a Vestal — % the Top

in a sacerdotal habit, found near of an ancient We^*^ — 5, a Lion

S. Stefano Rotondo — 30, Jove devouring a Goat. Fastened into

armed with thunder — 31, a Statue the Wall is the Plan of Ancient

of Mars, the head and armour Rome, found in the Church of

antique, the rest restored — 32, Saints Cosimo and Damiano.

Hercules killing the Hydra. Gallery up stairs. No. 2, Bust

Canopo, The greater part of of Faustina the elder, wife of An-

the statues contait^ in this apart- to'ninus Pius — 5, Euterpe — 10, a

ment are said to have been found Basso-rilievo, representing a Man

in the Canopus of Adrian's Villa : making his Will — 12, Faunus — 13,

it is supposed, however, that not Cupid oending his Bow, supposed

more than three of them are really to be an Ancient Copy firom rraxi-

Egyptian; the rest bein^ produc- teles! — 14, Bust of Silenus — 15,

tions of the time of Adnan. No. Bust of Pompey.

1, Isis and Apis — 3, Canopus — 9, Apartment of the Vase. No. 1,

Xsis — 10, Anubis with the Sistrum a large Vase with Bacchanalian

and Cs^uceus, found near the ornaments, found near the sepul-

Port of Antium, in the Villa-Pam- chre of Cecilia Metella ; and placed

fili — 12, Isis — ^13; Isis. on a Pedestal, apparently Etrus-

First room, added to tiie Mu- can, and decorated with figures in

ef the Capitol, two Imrge wax torches ate snfteiflnt. Admisaion* however, cannot be obtained to either Museum, for the purpose of viewiar the statues hj torch-light, without an order from the Pope's Mi^giordomo ; which Older pever extends to more than fifteen per- sons at the same time ; and but seldom to so many.

It is expected that every party shall come f«nii8he4 wiA wax torekee: and it is like- wise expected that each party ekaU give, at

the Capitol, to the Costede who shews the statues, and his attendants, from six to eight scudi, provided there be fires in one or two of the apartments; and, at the Vatican, from nine to ten sendi, acoording to the number of fires in the apartments.

(i^) Called Afar/ono, because it was found in the Forum of Mare. , -e • ,

(A) Or perhaps a receptacle for sacnficial

aeh«B.

16g • ROME. [Ch. VL

•

baeso-rilievOi representing the Jupiter !— 44, Diana- Lucifera— 48,- twelve principal Deities of the a Sarcophagus with Bassi-rilievi heathen worlcf ; it was found at relative to the history of Bacchus JSfettuno! — 2. (near the window,) — 50, Bust of Scipio Africanus! — a bronze Vase, found in the Port 51, Bust of Phocion— 52, Statue of • ofAntium; and once the property a Consul — 54, a semi-colossal of Mithridates Eupator, King of Head of Antinous— 65, Bust of Pontus, according to the Inscrip- Venus — 58, semi-colossal Bust of tion it bears; which Inscription Jupiter-Ammon!— 60, Statue of exhibits the most ancient Greek Ceres~62, Bust of the Mother of characters extant !— 36, Diana Tri- Niobe— 63, Bust of Tiberius— 64, formis — 37, a Basso-rilievo repre- Bacchus with a Panther at his feet senting circumstances recorded by — 65, Jove with the Eagle at his Homer— 39, a Sacrificial Tripod— feet— 66, Bust of Jupiter Serapis 40, ancient Roman Weights, Scales, —67, Head of Augustus— 68, Bust a Casket, a Measure, and a Can- of Adrian— 70, Bust of Caligula— delabrum— 41, the Triumph of 72, Statue of Marcus Aurelius— Bacchus for the conquest of India 73, Bust of Trajan— 74, Bust of — 47, Diana of Ephesus— 59, Isis Silenus crowned with ivy-^75, —68, the Foot of a Tripod of Bust of Domitius Enobarbus, the flowered alabaster !— 69, a Sepul- Father of Nero— 76, Bust of Ca- chral Urn, representing the fable . racalla.

of Diana and Endymion — 77, Apartment of the Emperors. Dianaof Ephesus— 83, a Herma/— On the Walls are the following 84, a Herma representing Bacchus Bassi-rilievi, numbered alphabe- —96, a Cinerary Urn supposed to tically— ^. Genii in Cars— 5. have contained the ashes of a Bacchus, on a Tiger, with F^uns, Youth— 1 00, a Sarcophagus, with Satyrs, ^c.—C. the Chase of the BassUrilieviy representing the fa- Calydonboar—j&. the nine Muses I ble of Prometheus— 101, a Mosaic, —F. Perseus liberating Andro- in pietre dure, of four Pigeons, meda!— G. Socrates with History, described by Pliny, and found in and Homer with Poetry— i/. En- Adnan's Villa * 1 1 dymion and his Dog, found on the

Continuation of the Gallery. Aventine Hill—/. 5ie fable of Hy- No. 17, Bust supposed to repre- las ; three of the figures in this sent Cecrops, first King of Athens Basso-rilievo exactly resemble the — 18, Cato the Censor!— 19, Group three Graces of Siena. In the of Agnppina and Nero— 21, Mar- middle of the room is a Statue of cus Aurehus— 23, Bust of a laugh- Agrippina, the Mother of Germa- mg Bacchus— 26, a young Her- nicus, seated in a . curule ; chair I culesi— 27,Paris— 28,aSarcopha- and round the apartment, on two gus representing the seizure of Pro- shelves of marble, stand Busts of serpine— 29,aCineraryUm— 30,a the Roman Emperors and their Bust, supposed to represent Mar- Relatives ; among the most strik- cus Brutus— 32, Psyche, with the ing of which are— Julius Caesar, wings of a butterfly— 34, Bust of numbered 1,— Drusus, numbered Marcus Vespasian Agrippa !— 35, 5,— Germanicus, numbered 7,— colossal Bust of the Mother of Caligula, numbered 9,— Messalina, Niobe— 36, a wounded Gladiator ; numbered 11,— Galba, numbered or, more probably, a Discobolus— 16,— Julia, the daughter of Titus, 37, a Wme-vase— 41, one of the numbered 21,— Nerva, numbered Daughters of Niobe— 42, Head of 24, — Plotina, numbered 26,—

.«y ^-J^ Mo**^*; "*^e Pa[t of a^parement ; Adrian from Pereamua, ftnd to haro been the and It supposed to have been brought bj wQrJs of Sosvs. * * ^ ■ ^®'* ^*^

Ch. VIJ

ROME.

169

Adrian, numbered 29, and 30, — Julia - Sabina, numbered 3 1 , — ' Marcus Aurelius, numbered 35, — Lucilla, the daughter of Marcus Aurelius, numbered 40, — Commo- dus, numbered 41, — Clodius Albi- nus, numbered 47, — Septimius Se- verus, numbered 48, and 49, — Ma- crinus, numbered 53, — Maximus, numbered 59, — ^Tribonianus Gal- lus, numbered 68, — and Salonino, numbered 73.

Apartment of the Philosophersj Among the Bassi-rilievi on the walls are, G. a Funeral Proces- sion; — /. Victory in a triumphal ear ; — L. a Sacrifice to Hygeia, in rosso antico ; — M, Faunus fol- lowed by Spartan Ladies: this work bears the name of Callima- chos, and is described by Pliny ^. In the centre of the room is one of the twelve Camillce, instituted by Romulus, for the service of the gods. On two marble shelve s round the room are Busts of Poets, Philo- sophers, and other . distinguished Characters of antiquity: Virgil, marked 1, — Socrates, marked 4, 5, and 6, — Cameades, marked 8, — Seneca, marked 10, — Plato, marked 11, — ^Diogenes, marked 21, —Archimedes, marked 22, — ^As- clepicules,^ marked 24, — Demos- thenes, marked 31 , — Pindar, mark- ed 33, — ^Aratus, marked 38, — De- mocritus, marked 39, and 40, — Homer, marked 44, 45, 46, and 47, — Aspasia, marked 48, — Cleo- patra, marked 4 9, — Sappho, mark- ed 51, — Lysias, marked 54, — ^Epi- curus, marked 62, — Metrodorus, marked 63, — Epicurus, marked 64, — ^Aristotle, marked 66, — Massi- nissa, marked 68, and 69, — Julian, the apostate, marked 72, — Cicero, marked 74, — and Gabrielle Faer- no, marked 79, and the work of Michael Angelo, are among the most striking.

Saloon, The two Columns of giallo antico, which ornament the

large niches of this apartment, where stands the Hercules of bronze ^It, once belonged to the tomb of Cecilia Metella ; and the two figures of Victory, which sup- port the arms of Clement XI I, once belpnging to the triumphal Arch of Marcus Aurelius. Amons the Statues are. No. 1, Jove armed with lightning, of nero antico, and found (as likewise was the Altar which serves for its Pedestal) in the Port of Antium! — 2. a Cen- taur, of nero antico, found in Adrian's Villa 1 1 — 3, Hercules, in basalt, found on the Aventine Hill ; tlie Pedestal is adorned with Bassi-rilievif representing the Birth, Education, and Coronation of Jovel!—- 4, another Centaur, sinular to that numbered "2**, and found on the same spot!! — 5, ^sculapius, in nero antico, placed on a circular Altar repre- senting a Sacrifice, and found, as was the Altar, at Antium — 6, Hy- geia, goddess of health — 7, Ptole- my-Apion, in the character of Apollo — 8, Venus rising firom the bath — 9, a wounded Amazon — 10, an Amazon — 11, a wounded Ama- zon — 13, a Muse — 14, Minerva! — 15, a Faun — 16, ApoUo; semi- colossal — 18, a colossal Bust of Trajan I — 21, a Wrestler — 22, Adrian — 23, Caius Marius, in con- sular robes ! ! — 24, Julia, consort of Septimius . Severus — 25, Hercules in bronze gUt, simi-colossal, found in the Forum Boarium; and the only antique statue in Rome on which the gilding remains I ! This Statue is placed upon an Altar consecrated to Fortune. — 26, Isis with the lotus on her head I — 28, a Master of one of the Schools for gymnastic exercises, found in Adrian'sVilla^-29, one ofihePra- ficcBy hired to weep at Funerals — 31, the Goddess of Clemency with a patera and a lance, found on the Aventine Hill— 32, a colossal Bust

C*) Winckelmann seems to think thU work Etruscan ; and supposes it to represent three Priestesses of Sacchus and a Faun*

170 * ROME* [Clh.VIi

of Antoninus Pitis!-^3» Diana^ en an Altar de£oated to ApoHol

as a Huntress ; from the Albani —4^ the Faun of Praxiteles, found

oollection — ^34 » a Oacciatore, found at Tivoli,- in the Villa d'Este! ! !•— >

near the Porta-Latina — 35, Har* 6, Antinous!!! — 8, Flora, found

pocrates, the god of silenoe, found in Adrian's Villa! — 9, Venus ris« 

fn Adrian s ViUa. ing from the bath ! ! !— 1 0» Bust of

Apartment of the Faun. — ^Among Mareus Brutus ! I — 12, Juno, semi- the BoMt-riHevi on the Walls eolossaI!tI — 13, Bust of Alexan** of this room, is the Triumph of der the Great I — 14, the £gyptian the Nereides over marine Mon* Antinous deified by Adrian, semi* sters. In the centre of the apart- colossal, and found in Adrian's ment is the Faun, in rosso antico. Villa! — 15, Bust of Ariadno found at Achrian's Villa I ! ! — ^No. 3, crowned with ivy — 16, Pandora, colossal Head of Hercules placed semi-colossal, placed <»i an Altar on a Rostral Altar, dedicated to dedicated to Hercules, and sup- Neptune — 6, colossal Head of posed to have been found in the Bacchus, placed on a Rostral Via Sacra/ — 17, Apollo, semi-co- Altar, dedicated to Tranquillity— lossal, and found in the Zolfatara, 10, an incognito Bust — 13, a Sar- near Tivoli ! ! !

cophagus, the Baasi-rilievi on Tenyno di Palladet erected b^ /

which represent the fable of Diana Domitian in his Forum. This

and Endymion — 14, an incognito magnificent Ruin is half buried in

Bust standing on an Altar dedi- the earth ; but that part which ap-

eated to Isis, and found in Rome, pears above-^und of two beauti-

under the Oasanatense Librarv— ful fluted Corinthian Colunms now

1 5, a Child playing with a Mask— > standing, measures twenty - nine

17, Innocence playing with a dove Paris feet in height, each column

•*-19, Alexander the Great — ^21, a beinff nine feet and a half in cir« 

Child playiog with a Swan, found cumnreBce. The Entablature and

in a W all now belon^g to the Frieze are rich in well-executed

Church of S. Croce in Gkrusa- ornaments, especially the latter,

lemme, and placed on an Altar de- which remsents the Arts patro-

dieated to the Sun ! — 22, an incog- nised by raUas. On the Entabla*

nito Bust — 26, a Sarcophagus tureis alargefigiffeoftheGroddess

ornamented with Bassi-rilievi re- in aito^riUwo, ^

presenting the Battle of Theseus Tempio e Foro di Nerva, The \

and the Amazons. Emperor Nerva, after the death of : /^

Apartment of the dying- Gladi- Domitiiui, finished his Forum, \ ' ator. This super-excellent Statue, which was enlarged and embek found in the gardens of Sallust, lished by Trajan, who built there, has been so w^ restored, by Mi- one of the flnest edifices of ancient ehael Angelo, that the Ann he Rome, a Temple in honour of made is deemed nearly equal in Nerva. Contiguous to the en- merit with the other parts of the trance into the Forum of Nerva figure^ ! ! ! ! ! — % Zeno, tiie Founder (now called Arco de* Pantani) are ot the Stoics ; this Statue stands the remains of this Temple ; upon an ancient Ahar, and was namely, part of what seems to hav«  discovered at Lavinium, in the been a Cdla, and part of a Side Villa of Antoninus Pius — ^3, a Portico, consisting of tluree mag* Group of Cupid and Psyche, found niiicent Columns and a Pilaster of on the Aventine Hill, and placed ]huian marble, fluted, and of the

(0 Winckelmftnn supposes the 8tetn« called considered ts s copy of that master-piece in

The dyinr Gladiator, to represent a herald : bronse, by Ctesilaus, which represented a

other antiqnaries t^iuk it more like a shield- wounded mw ift tke a^ouea of deiith4 bearer; it seems, howtvcr, to be genenllf

Ch. VTJ ROMS. 171

•

Corinthian Order, which support an belonged to the Basilica. Seve* Architrave much ornamented and ral ¥Vagments of Sculpture, In-» finely worked. The height of these seriptions, ^., have likewise been columns is fifty-one Pans feet, and found, and are now placed in the their circumference sixteen and a Forum, which appears, from re«  half"*. This Forum, called Traym- cent examinations, made in the i&riutHt or, the Thoroughfare, be- cellars and other subterranean cause it led to the other i^ra in its parts •of buildings which now neighbouriiood, was circumscribed eland on its site, to have been, like with respect to site, and of a circu- the generality of Roman Po- lar shape, as appears from its Wall rums, in shape an ovaL At the now remaining ; Which, (supposed eastern extremity was^ the Temple to have been originally part of the dedicated to Trajan ; on the foun- City wall erected by Tarquinius dations of which stands at the pre- Prisons,) is equally extraoniinary sent moment, a large Palazzo, ex«  on account of its immense height, tending nearly the whole length of and the enormous blocks of stone the Via delle tre Cannelle, and ter-* whit^ compose it, and are cramped minatin^ in the Piazza de* S. S. together Without the assistance of Apostoli. The form of this Tem- hme, by pieces of hard wood"* pie was oblong. At the western Foro e C&lonna Trc^ana. The extremity of the Forum stood the FC>rum of IVajan, built by Apol- Triumphal Arch. The Vestibule lodorus of Athens, was, according of the Temple fronted the Historic to the records of antiquity, more Column ; on one side of which was splenM than any other Forum the Latin Library, and on the other at Rome, and contained porticos, the Greek. Beyond these Libra- statues, a Imsilica, with a bronze ries, and apparently connected with equestrian statue 'of Traian in its them, was the Ulpian Basilica ; the vestibule; a temple dedicated to Columns belonging to which are that Emperor after his death ; a now placed, (as before mentioned,) triumphal arch with four fronts, in their original position. Beyond the celebrated Ulpian library, and the Basilica, near the western ex- a beautiful Historic Cohimn, the tremity, was an open Piazza ; on last of which alone remains entire, the north side of which stood tlie and is supposed to stand in what Winter Portico ; and on the south was the centre of the Forum ; and, side the Summer Portico. Shops under this supposition, we may and Baths beautiful in point of ar- eonelude that not much more than chiteeture, and long mistaken for half of the latter has been exca- the Baths of Paulus ^milius, vated, a»d that the other part must bounded the western end of the stiQ remain entombed beneath the Forum*; and as they may be Churches of S». Maria, and S». traced to the Palazzo-Ceva on one Maria di Loretto, ^. The exca- side, they probably extended equal- vations lately made have InxHight ly far on tne other ; that is, nearly to light a considerable number- of to ^e line on which stood the Ves«  C(^umns c^ grey granite, aU bro- tibule of the Temple. Each Shop ken, but which seem, judging from appears to have had a Magazine die situation oftheir bases, to have under it; and the Stairs leading

(mi) According to som« optnioBS, this £di* («) Dio«]rBias of Halicarasasus records,

fice was the Temple of Mars Ultor, which that Tarquinius Priscus fortified Rome with

9eM|«, however, to hare stood in the Fonua walls consistiaf of blocks of stone cut >n^ooth

oC Attgastus ; by whom it was vaised, in «>»■• aad even* aad so large that each ooe ioaded a

sequence of a vow he made at Philippi.— ^Je« car. ,. . *u '

SuBTowiTt* V, MmMu (o) AccofdJng to Vitruvius. ther« wer« 

SiMpt IB all theRwuM 7oruM.

172 RQME; [Cfi.VL

• down to the Magazines are quite His histoiy is unknown ; but, ac- perfect. Between the Shops are .cording to the inscription on the Niches for statues; and the line Monument, it was raised by the described by these Edifices is an Senate and People, to record his oval p. Trajan's historic Column, worth— a great and unusual ho- the most beautiful work extant of its nour. *

kind, was erected at the beginning Dogana Pontificia. This Edifice of the second century, by the Senate stands on the ruins of a large ob- and people of Rome, in honour of long building, each side of which his Victories over the Daci, Sar- seems to have been originally de- mati, if-c. It is of the Doric Order, corated with an open portico, and composed of thirty- four blocks Eleven magnificent fluted Corin- of white statuaay marble, fastened thian Columns of Greek marble together with bronze cramps : its still remain, and support an oval circumference, at the bottom, being Cornice Ukewise of Greek marble : eleven Paris feet two inches, and these Columns are near forty Paris at the top ten ; and its height from feet in height, and particularly the pavement, including the Sta- well proportioned; their Base is tue on its summit, one hundred attic, and their Capitals are deco- and thirty- two Paris feef*. The rated with olive-leaves : they have bassi-rilievi with which it is adorn- suffered cruelly from fire. The ed, represent the Dacian Wars, Quadrangle of the Structure con- and are supposed to have been de- tains Fragments of a fine Entabla- signed, and in great measure exe- ture and a Portico ; and as part of cuted, by Apollodorus. The Sta- the Roof of a Cella seems dis- tue of Trajan, in bronze gilt, ori-r coverable among these splendid ginally stood on the top of this ruins, they are supposed to be re- Column, but the existing Statue, mains of a Temple ; and their is that of S. Peter, placed there by proximity to the Forum of Anto- Sixtus V. The Pedestal of the ninus Pius, added to other circum- Column exhibits Trophies, Eagles, stances, makes it probable that Wreaths of Oak, ^., most beau- they are remains of o Temple dedi- tifully sculptured ', and originally cated to him by the Roman peo-> contained the Ashes of Trajan in pie.

a golden urn. Obelisk of Monie-'Citorio. This

Mausoleo di C, Poblicius Bibu- Obelisk, made, according to suppo- Itts. On a spot, now called Macel sition, in the time of Sesostris, about de' Corvi, and leading from the a thousand years before Christy Corso toward the Capitol, are re- was brought to Rome by Augustus, mains of this very ancient Sepul- who used it as the Gnomon, or chral Monument ; which originally Stile, of his Meridian Line, which was not within the walls of Rome ; was traced on the Pavement by for it appears that Bibulus lived means of a Bronze Dial, near the ' during the second Punic war, and Temple of Juno-Lucina, now the before this part of the Campus Church of S. Lorenzo in Lucina*. Martins was added to the City. The Obelisk is of red granite

(f>) The first Lane to the left, beyond the A Staircase, consisting of one hundred and western end of the Forom, leads to the Gate of eighty-four steps, leads to the top of the Co- entrance to this line of Shops, and Baths. Inmn ; and is cut out of the blocks of marble

(^) Lumisden supposes the height of this which form its diameter,

majestic monument to b« one hundred and (^r) The shields and arms are those of the

fifteen feet ten inches, English — ^viz. the Pe- Daci, the Sarmati, and their allies, copied

destal twenty feet ten inches, and the Shaft from the originals brought to Rome by

of the Column ninety-five feet. Eutropius, Trajan.

(including the Statue and the Pedestal,) makes («) Se^ Pi^iny's Nat, Hiit, 1. 96— <r, 10^ the height one hnndredand forty-four Paris fe«t.

Ch. VI.]

ROME.

173

charged with Hiero^ljrphics, and his family : it was incrusted with

measures, from the bottom of its white marble, and, being raised to

pedestal to the ball on its summit, a great height, formed a stately

about eighty- one Paris feet. Pius Dome'. The building seems to

VI placed it on Monte- Citorio *. have been divided into three stories,

Colonna-Antonina, This stately round which were broad belts.

Historic Column was raised by whereon evergreens were planted :

the Roman Senate in honour of the summit was adorned with a

Marcus Aurelius Antoninus, whose Statue of Augustus ; and two

statue of bronze gilt stood on its summit. It records the Marco- mannic War, in a series of Bassi- riliem, which seem to have been imitated from those on Trajan's Column, though inferior in point of workmanship. It is of the Do- ric Order, and composed of twenty-

Egyptian Obelisks stood at the entrance*. One story alone re- mains : here, however, are several sepulchral Chambers tolerably per- fect : and traces of the ancient en- trance to these chambers, in the Walls of the first Story, which are immensely thick, may still be found.

eight blocks of white marble ; its This entrance resembles that, (re- diameter being near twelve Paris cently discovered,) to the sepul- feet, and its height, from its base chral chamber which contained the to the top of the statue, about one ashes of Adrian in his Mausoleum, hundred and forty-nine. As this The groves belonging to that of Column was extremely injured by Augustus, and dedicated by him to lightning, Sixtus V restored it ; at the use of the People, extended the same time placing on its sum- toward the Porta del Popolo ; and mit the Statue of S. Paul, which, the Bustum, where the bodies of like that of Marcus Aurelius An- the Emperor and his family were toninus, is of bronze gilt ". burnt, was in the vicinity of his MausoleodAuffusto, Augustus, Mausoleum, near the Church of during his sixth Consulate, erected S. Carlo al Corso. So extraordi- this superb Mausoleum in the nary are the changes in this world. Campus Martius, for himself and that the tomb of Augustus is now

([t) Monte-Citorio is supposed to be an artU ficial height produced by the ruins of an Am-

rhitheatre built there, by Statilius Taurus, n the Garden of the Mission, contiguous to this spot, was discovered a plain column of red Egyptian granite, about sixty-seven palmi high ; and in diameter about eight palmi and A half. It was brought to Rome by Trajan, (his name being inscribed on it,) and after- wards dedicated to Antoninus Pius, by Mar- cus Aurelius Antoninus, and Lucias Verus. It was dug up by order of Clement XI ; and on one side of the pedestal was found in hasso- rilievo, the apotheosis of Antoninus Pius and Faustina the elder; on two of the other sides funereal dances ; and on the fourUi side the following inscription :

Divo. Antonino. Avo. Pxo Antoninvs. Avovstvs. Et Vkevs. Avovstvs. Filii. Hence it appears that the inscription on the Historic Column, dedicated to Marcus Aure- lius, is incorrect in stating that he raised it in honour of his adoptive father, Antoninus Pius. The Column found in die Garden of the Mis- sion was, by order of Pius VI, cut down to repair the Obelisk which now adorns the Piazza of Monte-Citorio. — See LVMisoiN'g Antiquities of Borne,

(«) The Pedestal of the Aurelian Column i> modern ; and, according to Lumisden, twenty* five feet eight inches in height, EngUsh mea- sure, and the shaft of the column he computes to he ninety-seven feet high, English mea- sure. If the Street, recently discovered eigh- teen feet below the foundation of the Pslazzo- Piombino, be, as antiquaries suppose, part of the Fia-Flaminia, the Aurelian Column must, when first erected, have stood on a considera- ble hill.

(v) In the Campus Martius^ where Augustas built his Sepulchre and Bustum^ the Dead were usually nurnt. This Plain, called Cant' pus MartiuSt because dedicated to Mars, is supposed to have been originally given to the Roman People by a Vestal Virgin: but Tarquinius Superbus took ]>Oi!tsession of it for himself, and sowed com there. On his expul- sion, however, it was regained by the People. ' It extended, in the days of Augustus, from hia ^f ausoleum to the Theatre of Marcellns ; and from the base of the Pincian, Quirinal, and CapitQline Hills to the Tiber. During Nero'a reign it is supposed to have reached to the Ponte MoUe.

(tt>) They were not placed there by Augua* tus ; but probably by Claudius.

1/4

ROME.

ICh. VI.

converted into a sort of Amphi- till recently brought to light by the theatre for Bull-fights and Fire- aforesaid discovery of its entrance : works ! and, jud^ng by the construction Mattgoleo-'Adriano, now Castel of the £cufice, itieare must be ano*- dt 8, Angela, This magnificent ther yet undiscovered Passage lead- Edifice was erected on a square ing to the second story. The first base of considerable height, (adorn- Vault into which the Gate of en- ed with statues,) * by the Emperor trance opens is furnished With a Adrian, nearly opposite to the large Niche, probably once occU- Mausoleum of Augustus, and in pied by a statue of Adrian y. After the Garden of Domitian i its form the fail of the Roman empire this is a Rotondo. It consisted of Two Mausoleum became tiie Citadel of Stories ; and was incrusted with Rome, and acquired the appella*- Parian marble, encircled by a con- tion of Castello di S. Angelo, firom centric portico, (above the cor^ a Statue of the Arch-angel, Mt- nice of which were statues,) and chael, placed therc> to commemo- terminated hy a cupola, surw rate a Vision of S. Gregori<!>; who, rounded with statues. Its sum- being on the top of the Edifice, mit displayed the ancient emblem thought he saw an Angel announc- ofmouming, the fruit of the pine«- ing to him the cessation of the tree, supposed to be that made Plague, which at that period rar of bronze which is now placed in vaged Rome. Considerable re<- the Garden belonfi:ing to the Vati- mains of the ancient Building may can Museum. The Pons JElius, still be discovered within the walls now called Ponte S. Afigelo, was of the modem Fortress ; the laiig^e built, by Adrian, to server for an Hall of which merits notice, as it access to his splendid Sepulchre ; is painted in fresco by Raphaers and the Entrance, constructed by scholars.

him, fironts the Bridge, and has Tempio del Sole nel Giardino

been recently discovered ; as like- CoUmnese, In Via della Pilotttt*

wise has the Avenue, or vaulted near the Church of Santi Apostolic

Passage, leading up, by a gradual is a Door leading up a Flight Of

ascent, between the walls of the Narrow Steps into the Colonna

first story, to a large Chamber in Garden, where lie immense Frag-

the centre of the Building, where ments of what is supposed to have

probably stood the urn containing been the Temple of the Sun erected

Adrian's ashes. The form, Brick- by Aurelian. This Edifice, finely

work, and Mosaic Pavement of situated on the Quirinal Hill, way

this Vault are beautiful ; and its one of the largest Temples of an*

cjuietude and solemnity are pecu- cient Rome, if we may jud^e by

liarly in unison with the apartment the enormous magnitude ot the

to which it leads. This Passage Ruins of the Frieze and Entabla*

appears to have been forgotten ture which still remain*: they

firom the period when the Mauso- are of white marble, beautifully

leum was converted into a Fortress, sculptured. The Columns whicn

(«) These statues, each g^roup representing a man holding a horse, were placed at the fonr corners of the square batte.

{^y) This part of the Castel di 8. Angelo cannot he seen by foreigners, unless they are admitted and accompanied by the command- ing officer of the rarrison : neither is the other part open to the Public, except on two or three pai^ionlar day's of the year, when the soldiers ■of the garrison hare permission to shew it.

C') One of these blocks of marble is twelve

feet in length, English measure ; thirteen in breadth, and eleven in height. Another block is seventeen feet in length, tea in breadth, and six in height. But prwligioas to modem eyes as these blocks appear, they are pigmies com*

fared with thotte mentioned by Joseph us as aving composed part of the Temple at Jera- salem, after its restoration by Herod, and as being upward of sixty- seven feet ia lengtib, above seven t« height, and about Bins ift breadth.

Ch.VL3 HOME. m

supported the Entablaturtt are feello da Montelupo, and that of

supposed to have been seventy the latter by Bacciobigio. Near

English feet in height. Here was the Side-door is the Monument of

found a Votive Table of Marble, CardinalAlessandrino, designed by

on which the worship of Mithras is Giacomo della Porta ; and that of

represented; and as the worship of Cardinal Pimentelli, executed by

Mithras, (brought to Rome from Bernini : but the most celebrated

Persia,) was certainly connected piece of sculpture in this Church

v^th that of the sun, such a votive is a Statue of our Saviour holdinj^

offering is an indication that the his Cross, by Michael Angelo! Itia

Tem{>le of the Sun stood here. near the High-altar. The Altieri-

This Garden likewise contains Chapel contains an Altar-piece, by

Ruins of the BcUhs qf Constantine* Carlo Maratta and Baciccio : and

Obelisk of the Picasza di Santa the large Chapel belonging to the

Maria soprq Minerva, This little Caraffia. family is painted in fresco*

Obelisk, inscribed with Hierogly- hy F^ppino I'ippi* Rafaellino d^

phics, was found near the spot Garbo, and Fra Giovanni Angelico

where it now stands ; in conse- da Fiesole, who was buried in thia

quence [of excavations which were Church. The adjoining Convent

made to lay Uie foundations of the contains the Caaanaiense Library

Convent of the Minerva. The (the best at Rome, with respect

Obelisk now erected opposite to to printed books), and a Statue

tiie Pantheon, was found in the of Cardinal Casanatta, by Le

same place : and it is conjectured Gros \

that the Temples of Isis and Se- . Pantheon. The Piazza in which

rapis stood in this part of Rome ; this magnificent Temple stands,

and that these small Obelisks were was completely filled with ruins of

placed before them. A fine statue ancient buildings, till the Pontifi->

of Minerva, an Isis, a Serapis, an cate of Eugenius lY, who, on hav-

Isiaic Altar, and other Egyptian ing these ruins cleared away, dis*

antiquities, were found in this vici- covert, before the Portico of tha

nity ; as were the celebrated sta- Pantheon, the two lions of basalt

tues of the Nile and Tiber; the which now adorn the Fontana di

former of which is now in the Va- Termine ; a head of Agrippa, in

tican-Museum,' the latter at Paris, bronze ; and some ornaments, sup**

The Obelisk of the Piazza della posed to have belonged to the pedi-»

Minerva was placed there, by ment Grregory Xfll erected the

Alexander VII ; and the Elephant, Fountain in this Piazza ; and Cle**

on whose back it rests, was de« ment XI embelli^ed it with the

signed by Bernini, and executed by Egyptian ObeUsk before-mention*

Ferrata. ed. The Pantheon, which has in

Chiesa di 5". Maria sopra Mi- great measure defied the injuries of

nerva. This Church is supposed nme, seems as if preserved to latter

to stand on the foundations of a ages for the purpose of fiimishing

Temple of Minerva built by Pom* a just idea of ancient Roman taste

pey, in gratitude for his victories : and splendour. The general opi-»

the interior of the Church, how- nion appears to be that it was built

ever, though spacious and hand- by Agrippa, the son-in-law of Au-

some, exhioits no remains of the gustus ; and repaired by Septimiua

ancient Temple. Behind the High- Severus and Caracalla; but that

altar are the Tombs of Leo X, and Agrippa did not build the Portico

Clement VII, by Bandinelli ; the at the same time with the rest of

Statue of the former being by Ra- the Temple ; because the original

(a) On the twenty-tliird of April, from five till seveu ia tlw» eveni»g. tb«« U fin* vimc ia

' this church.

176

ROME!

tCh. VI".

Pediment may still be traced above away «. I'He original bronze doors,

his magnificent Portico; on the embellished with bassi-rilieviy be-

Prieze of which is the following came the spoil of Genseric, King of •

Inscription. ^^ Vandals, who lost them in the

Sicilian sea: the Door-case, which

M. AGRiPPA. L. F. COS. TERTiVM. jg magnificent, still remains ; and

^^^^"^ • the present Doors appear to have The Pantheon, judging from its been taken fi*om an ancient edifice, name, was dedicated to all the The inside of the Temple is circu- gods : though Agrippa particu- lar, and its diameter is an hundred larly consecrated it to Jupiter the and thirty-two Paris feet, exclusive Avenger: and, according. to Dion of the walls, which are nineteen Cassius, wished to have placed the feet thick : the height seems to »• statue of Augustus there, and to : have been the same as the diame- have inscribed his name as author ter, tiU the interior payement was of the Temple ; which honour raised to a level with that of the the Emperor modestly declined. Portico : for originally there was a Agrippa, therefore, placed the sta- descent of seven or eight feet into ' tue of Julius Caesar in therotondo, the Pantheon ; a construction not among the deities, and the statues unusual in ancient temples * The of Au^stus and himself in the walls were incrusted with Precious large niches on the outside near the Marbles, which still remain, as do great door : and probably the Por- the ancient Cornices and Frieze ; tico might have been added for the and it is supposed that the inside of purpose of containing these sta- the Dome was originally covered tues. Formerly there were seven with silver bassi^ruievi : the out- steps leading up to the Portico; side was bronze gilt. The beams now, two only are above ground, ofthe ceiling ofthe Dome and Por-* This stately Vestibule is supported tico were cased with thick plates of by sixteen magnificent Columns of bronze, which Urban VIII took the Corinthian Order, each shaft away, to make the Baldacchino in being one entire piece of red orien- S. reter's, and the cannon of the tal granite, the circumference of Castle of S.An^elo; thereby draw- which is fourteen Paris feet, and ing upon himself the following pas- the height about thirty-nine. The quinade: " Quod non/ecerunt Bar- Bases and Capitals are of white oari Rom€P, fecit Barberini" All marble, and unique in point of the superior gods had their respec- beauty. The Portico is -sur- tive statues here, in bronze, silver, mounted by an Entablature and gold, or precious marble: that of Pediment finely proportioned ; and Jupiter the Avenger is supposed to in the tympan of the latter are have been in the centre of the Tri- holes that served, no doubt, to fix buna ; the infernal deities on the a basso'-rilievOf now, alas, taken pavement, the terrestrial in the

(&) Palladio supposes the body of the KdU iiee to have been built in the time of the Re- pabUc: that it was repaired by Septimiaf Severas and Caracalla is evident, from an Inscription on the Architrave of tlie Portico. This Inscription expresses, that the Edifice had suffered /rom ape.* and Lumisden, think- ing it improbable such a building should have suffered /rom age^ in so short a period as that between the days of Agrippa and Septimius Severus, is, therefore, inclined to adopt the opinion of Palladio.

(c) It was composed of bronze i^It.

(d) Lumisden gives, in English measure, thf following Acoouot of the dimensions of the

Pantheon. Shaft of each column supportiaf the Portico, about forty-two feet, without in" eluding either base or capital. Diameter of the inside of the Temple about one hundred and forty-nine feet, exclusive of the 'walls* which are about eighteen feet thick ; so that the diameter of the whole circle is about one hundred and eighty-five feet. Height of the interior the same as the breadth. The Pan- theon, being one of those Temples which Vi- tmvins ealb Hypathrat has no windows ; baC is lighted from its summit by a circular open- ing, or eye, the diameter of which i« aoont twenty-seven feet^

Ch. VI.] ROME. 177

lower'niches of the Walls, and the Teairo di Pampeo, Campo di celestial in the upper niches. The Fiori. Pompey, after having con- Pavement is composed of porph}^ eluded the Mithridatic war, built, and giallo antico, bordered with at a great expense, 'a Theatre with other rare maibles ; and the Aper- a Covered Portico, and a Curia in ture in the Roofforlight is twenty- its vicinity. The Palazzo- Pio, in six feet in diameter. Pliny m^- the Campo di Fiori, is erected on tions, among the ornaments, co- the foundations of the Seats of the lumns with capitals of a metal Theatre ; and the Church of S. An- called Syracustan; but none of drea della Valle is supposed to these are preserved ; neither do any stand on, or near, the Site of the of the Caryatides, nor the other Curia; in which Ceesar was as- statues executed by Diogenes the sassinat^. Pompey*s was the Athenian, now remain. Pliny like- first permanent Theatre built at wise mentions, among the statues, Rome ; for, previous to his days, a Venus with ear-rin^s made of a theatrical representations were ex- pearl cut asunder ; bemg the fellow hibited in temporary edifices, made of that which Cleopatra dissolved of wood. His Theatre was shaped in vinegar, and drank to the health like a half- moon ; the circular part of Mark Antony. Fourteen beau- serving for Seats and Orchestra ; tiful Columns of the Corinthian and the straight line for the Stage. Order still adorn the interior of Under the seats were Corridors, this Edifice ; and it is said that the (Vomitorii,) which, by means of two which stand on each side of the Staircases, conducted the specta- High-altar were placed there by tors to their places. The Proscc" Adrian. The smiedl Altars display niumt or Stage, was richly adorned Columns of porphyry, giallo antico with Columns, and represented a and granite, Paintingsr and Statues; magnificent Hall, terminated by among the latter of which is a Niches for Statues': and behind Group of a Vestal and a Child the Proscenium was a Covered found in the subterranean part of Portico, ' to which the spectators the Building; this Vestal is now retired, in case of rain ; as ancient called S. A^a ". Busts, monu- Roman theatres were open to the ments, and inscriptions, to the me- weather. Pliny says tlus Theatre mory of distinguished characters contsdned .forty thousand specta- whose talents have shed lustre tors : it may be found in the marble upon Italy, once clothed the walls plan of Rome on the Staircase of or the Pantheon ; but are now re- the Museum of the Capitol ; and moved to the Capitol ; except the its covered portico is mentioned by Inscriptions in memory of Raphael Vitruvius. The remains of this and Annibale Caracci, and a Mo- Theatre, under the Palazza-Pio, nument in memory of Cardinal can only be seen by means of Consalvi. torches. The First Story consists ' Bagni dAgrippa. Immediately of reticulated Brick-work in excel- behind the Pantheon were Agrippa's lent preservation; and under this Baths, of which scarce any vestige Story is another, the Foundation remains ; except a Semi-circular Walls of which are composed of Building, now called Arco della immense Blocks of Stone, without Ciaimheua. cement, and similar to the very old

(ji) It has been already mentioaed that the Sta^ were large ; beeaase the whole re- Vestals were obliged to dedicate ten jrears of presentation was exhibited there ; and the their lives to thb occupation of teaching the Orchestra (called, in English theatres, the duties of their sacred office to their sue- pit) was small ; because it served only for cesson. the seats of Senators and Magistrates.

(/) In Roman Thefttre» the dimensions of

N

ITS ROMB. [OK VI.

Walls of Rome* In the Lower tu68, representing fotir of the prin»

Story, Baths and Rewrvoirs foi' cipal Rivers of the world ; namely,

water are discoverable * the former the Ganges, the Nile * , ihe Plata,

rtsemblinff in shape the ancient and the Danube. The Fountain

baths still seen in Magna Greecia. does honour to the taste of Ber-^

A mutilated Statue, draped, and nini.

auaularin countenance to the medals Chieia di S. Agmie, in Piaaza"

crfPompeVf stands at the entrance Navona, This Church stands on

of the Palaxeo-Pio. The Custode the Lupanarium of the Circus

here is always provided with torches Agonalis, whither S. Agnes was

and a lantern, in order to conduct di^i^ed, in order to be defiled*- A

strangers into the Vaults* Staircase near the Chapel of S.

The Palazzo-Stoppani, built after Agnes leads into the Lupanariump

the designs of Raphael, near the where are considerable remains of

Church of S. Andrea della Yalle, antiquity, together with a Bommo"

contains^ at the foot of the Stair- rilievo of S. Agnes miraculously

ease* an ancient Statue of Marcus covered with her own hair ; and

Aurelius : and not far hence, near said to be one of the best works of

the Palaszo-Mattei, in a small Algardil

Court belonring to a Convent an*- The Church of S. Agnes, built in

nexed to the Church of S« Niccolo the form of a Greek Cross, contains

Cesarini, are remains of a circular stately columns of granite, a beau-.

Temple with fluted columns of tiful Pavement, a Cupola finely*

tufo; and probably that which was painted by Ciro Ferri, Corbellim,

dedicated bv Sylla to Hercules. and Baciccio ; a Statue of S. Agnes

Piazza*N(Wona, This was an- in the flames, by Ercole Ferrata ;

ciently the Circus A^onaiis ; so an antique Statue, now called 8.

called, perhaps, from having been Sebastiano ; several fine BmH^

the spot where the Agonal Games, rilievi, (the most striking of which

Instituted by Numa m honour of is S. Eustachio among Wild-beasts,

Janus, were celebrated. It is one by Ercole Ferrata ;) the Mausoleum

of the larpst Piazzas in Rome, and of Innocent X; and a High-altar

has retained its original shape, incrusted with flowered alabaster,

Gregory XIII embellished it with and ornamented with Columns of

two Fountains ; one of which is verde antique ; and a group in

ornamented with a Triton, by Ber- marble of the Holy Family, by Do-

nini ; and other sculpture, by vari- menichino Guidi.

ous artists : and Innocent X erect- The Lupanarium is damp and

ed the centre Fountain, after the cold.

design of Bernini. It consists of a Near the PiSisza^Navona, in the

circular Basin seventy-three Paris Piazza- Piumetti, is a House, the

feet in diameter; in the middle of outside walls of which are adorned

which rises a Rock, with the Sta- with a Fresco, by Polidoro da Ca-

tufe of a Sea-horse on one side, ravage, representing the Story

and on another that of a Lion: ofNiobe.

on the summit of this rock is an Teatro di Marcello^ Piazza' Mofi" ^Z'

Obelisk of red granite, covered tanara. This Theatre, said to

with Hieroglyphics, and ftfty-one have been the second built at Rome ^•

Paris feet in heiffht ; it was found for public exhibitions, was erected

in the Circus of Rimulus. The by Augustus in honour of his Ne-

four sides of the rock are likewise phew Marcellus ; and the archi*

embellished with four colossal Sta- lecture is so fine as to have served

(a) The Statue of tbe Kile has its head covered, to sifnifjr tiiat iti «ourc« WM «&•

known to the ancients.

Qb. VI j ROME. Iff

fts a model to all suoceeding ages, Fluninian Circus and Marcellus^t It was four Stories high ; but the Theatre, in that part of Rome now two upper ones are quite destroyed; occupied by the Pescheria, or and have buried, in their ruins, the Great Fish-market, and the Church seats, orchestra, and sta£;e. Almost of S. Angiolo in Pescheria ; and half, however, of the Wall belong" was built oy Augustus, in honour ing to the first and second Story of his Sister, Ootavia ; clneSLy for of the circular part of the Theatre the purpose of sheltering the peo«  remains, and, though lamentably pie from rain. Its form seems defaced, proves its magnificence, to have been a parallelogram. The Portjco of the Ground Story, supported by nearly three hundred which led to the lobbies and stair* columns, and adorned with statues cases, is Roman Doric, and the of the most exquisite workman- second Story Ionic. The edifice ship. It enclosed a court, where was built with large blocks of tra^ stood a temple dedicated to JunOj vertino, and held near thirty thou- and another dedicated to Jupiter ; sand spectators. In order to see which, according to Pliny, were the lower part of this beautifid built after the designs of Scaurus Theatre, on which the Orsini-Pa- and Betrachus, two wealthy Lace- lace now stands, it is necessary to demonian architects*": but, having appoint the Custode of that Palace suffered from fire, these temples to be in waiting there, about eleven were restored in the reign of Sep-* in the forenoon. The Arches, timius Severus and CaracaUa, as Corridors, and Substructions of appears by an inscription still vi- the Stories now remaining are sible. The Portico of Octavia like- highly worth notice ; and in the wise comprised an exhibition-haU Lower Story were, according to for paintmss on certain days of appearance, Baths and Reservoirs the year. Judging by the shape of for water, like those in Pom- this Portico and its mterior buiM- pey's llieatre. During the dark ings preserved in the ancient mar- ages, the subterranean part of the blet plan of Rome, the present re- ^eatre of Marcellus was con- mains appear to have been one of vertedlnto a place of confinement: the principal Entrances, in form and on, or near, this spot, the Pri^ square, with two fironts similar to son of the Decemviri oncQ' stood; each other, and both embellished in which Prison, according to Pliny with fluted Corinthian Columns of and Valerius Maximus, a woman white marble, supporting an £nta- was condemned to be starved to blature and Pedunent, all finely death, and saved by her daughter, executed ; and among the oma-> who had not long been brought to ments of the capital of every Co- bed, and who got access to her, lumn is a Roman Eagle, and supported her with her milk : Ternpio dEsculapio, now Chieta tiU, at length, when this circum- di S, Bartolommeo, This Church stance was discovered, the mother stands on what is called the Island received pardon for the daughter's of the Tiber ; being precisely the sake ; a pension, likewise, was be- space between the Pons Ceetiue and stowed upon Hiem ; and a temple the Pons Fabricitu, The Romans

y^ raised on the spot to filial piety. have a tradition that this island was

Portico dOctavia, This mag- formed by the com belonging to

nificent Edifice stood between the Tarquin the Proud in the CampHS

(A) Pliny Mys, these Architects oflfered to aour having been refused, they engraved npon

bttUd at their own expense the temples in the edifices a Lizard and a Frog — 2»«i;^f

question, prorided they were allowed toia- ^nd B*.r^«v#f— being, in Greek, the names of

•cribe tikeii vithtteir m«m: M tki9 kth tke vckiSecIs as w«U as th« r«ptilM.

m 2

180 now&. . . [cKVi.

« 

Martius, having been cut down, encircling the Altar is of alabaster

and, by order of the Consuls, and various precious marbles ; and

thrown into the river. About the the Ceiling is lined with ancient

year of Rome 462, when the City Mosaics. Here, also, are a small

suffered fi-om a pestilence, the round Picture of the Caraxjci-

Sibylline Books were consulted; school, and an ancient Pontifical

and an embassy sentf in conse- Chair. On the right of the great

Suence, to bring iEsculapius of door of the Church is an ancient Ipidaurus to Rome : when the Vapour Bath, quite perfect ; the Serpent worshipped by the Epi- Walls of which contain earthen daurians, under tne name of Ms- Flues to convey hot air. This is cidapius, followed the ambassadors supposed to be the Place where into their galley, remained with S. Ceciha was killed; it is now con- them during their voyage home, and verted into a Chapel, and here are then quitted tiie vessel and swam two Pictures in the style of Guido ; to the Island of the Tiber, where the one representing the Decapi- a temple was built for him : and, tation of the Saint, the other her to perpetuate the memory of this Coronation, event, the figure of a Serpent is cut Basilica de S^. Maria in Tras- on one of the stones which served tevere, supposed to stand on the for the foundation of the temple, foundations of the Tabema Men- The serpent, however, is in the toria, which was a hospital for in- garden of the Convent belonging valid-soldiers. The Portico of this to the Church ; and ladies are not Edifice is supported by smtique idlowed to see the Garden without granite Columns, and contains an- an order from a Cardinal. The cient Mosaics, and several ancient Columns in the Chiurch appear to Inscriptions. The Church is a be antique, and are supposed to noble structure, divided into three have belonged to the Temple of naves by twenty-two. magnificent ^sculapius ; the Sarcophagus, antique CJolumns of red and grey which forms the altar, is hand- granite: four Columns of the same some. description support a fine archi- Chiesa di S*^. Cecilia in Traste- trave ; and some of the Capitals vere. This Edifice stands on the are ornamented with Heads of Isis, Foundations of the House of S. S.erapis, and Harpocrates. The Cecilia, and contains the Bath Pavement is that kind of Mosaic wherein she suffered martyrdom. which was invented by the Emperor An ancient Vase of marble is Alexander Severus, and caUedOpus placed in the' Court leading to the Alexandrinum, In the centre of the Church ; and the Portico is em- Ceiling of the middle aisle is the bellished with antiqueColumns, two Assumption of the Virgin, by Do- of which are granite. The high- niehichino ! ! and the Chapel to the altar of the Church is ornamented left, on approaching the High-altar, with foiu" Columns of nero and is embeUished with Frescos attri- bianco antico supporting a Bal- buted to the same great artist, dacchino of Parian marble ; under The Baldacchino of the High-altar which rest the relics of S. Cecilia, is supported by four Columns of in a Tomb composed of alabaster, porphyry, and in the Tribuna lapis lazuli, jasper, verde antique, are Mosaics of the twelfth cen- agate, and bronze gilt. Here hke- tury. Here, likewise, are two still wise is the Statue of S. Cecilia, more ancient Mosaics : the one re- by Stefano Maderno, in the posi- presenting Birds, the other a Sea- tion in which she was found after port. This Basilica also contains her marfyrdom I The Pavement an ancient Pontifical Chair; toge^

Ch. VL] ROME. 181

m

ther with the Tombs of two cele- supposed, by some persons, to have

brated painters, the Cav. Lan- been built on the foundations of

franco, and Giro Ferri. the Temple of Hercules*. Here

In the Piazza, before the Church, are an ancient Pavement and an

is a Fountain, made during the ancient Well. The High-altar is

Pontificate of Adrian I, and the adorned with fine Columns of verde

most ancient of modem Rome. antique : the Tabernacle is hand-

Chiesa di S«. Prisca, Monte- some ; and adjoining to the Church. Aventino, On the left, in ascend- is the Villa of the deceased King' ing the Aventine Hill from Rome, of Spain, said to stand on, or near, is this Church ; supposed to have the site of the Temple of the Bona been originally a pagan Temple. DeoT, The Garden belonging to Twenty-four antique Columns yet this Villa commands a fine view, remain; and an Isiaic Table was Behind the Aventine Hill is 3/on/tf- found near the Church; which Testaccio, anciently Mons-Testa- circumstance leads some persons ceus; which, though one hundred to imagine it was a Temple of Isis ; and sixty-three Pans fieet in height, especially as Isis had a temple on and above five hundred feet in cir- the Aventine Hill. cumference, is composed, almost Chiesa di S^. Sabina. Further entirely, of potsherds ; conjectured to the r^ht, is this noble Edifice, to have been heaped upon this supposed to stand on the foundji- spot, in former ages, by workmen tions of the Temple of Diana, built belonging to the potteries of the by Servius Tullius for the common neighbourhood, use of the cities of Latium; and Sepolcro di Cqjo Cestio. This iheref ore caUed Templum commune Pyramid was erected in memory Latium^: or, else, on the site of of Caius Cestius, one of the Sep- the Temple of Juno, built by Ca- temvir Epulonum, a College of millus ^. But all we know to a Priests, instituted to provide ban- certainty on this subject is, that quets, called Lectisternia, as of- the Portico contains four antique ferings to the gods ; whose statues. Columns, two of which are rare laid on superb couches, were placed granite; that the interior of the at table, as the principal guests. Church is supported by twenty- while the banquet was eaten by four particularly beautiful antique the Epulones. Of Cestius's pri- fluted Shafts of Parian marble, vate history we are ignorant ; but, with Corinthian Bases and Capi- as the name of M. Agrippa is men- tals ; and that the shape of the tioned in the inscriptions on the Church resembles an ancient tem- Monument, we may conclude that pie. In the last Chapel on the it was erected during the Augustan right of the High-altar is a Pic- age : it measures an hundred and ture, by Sassoferato, representing thirteen Paris feet in height ; and the Madonna, S. Domenico, S. each of its four sides is, at the base, Caterina, and Angels I ! The small sixty-nine feet in length: it was Paintings round this fine work are built, a^eeable to the testament good : they represent the Life of of Cestius, in three hundred and our Saviour. thirty days ; and ornamented with Chiesa di S, Alessio, Still fur- Paintings, relative to the Sacred ther to the right is this Structure, Ceremonies of the Epulones, and

(t) Diooysitw of Halicarnassus says, ** Tul. (k) Camillas yowed a Temple to J«np at

lias built the Temple of Diana for the common the siege of Veii, and erected it on this HtU. use of the people of Latium, on the Aventine (J) Because a statue of Herculen, wbea

HiU, the highest ground at Rome, where they young, executed in basalt, and preserved in

assembled aannally, held a Fair, and offered the Museum of the Capitol, was iound here, ^aqrifices to the Qoddesf." (m) The Earth.

18« ANTIQUITIES NSAR ROME. [Ch. VL

fttin visible, though much infure^ to the interior of the Two Upper by time. It stands near the Porta Stories of the Edifice. Here may 8. Paolo, called Ostiense, by Au- be traced two open Courts sur- relian, and was on the outside of rounded with Porticoes, a large Rome till he extended her walls. Central Hall, or Xystum, the roof Terme di Caracalla. On the of which was supported by eight plain below the Aventine, and op- stupendous columns of granite ; a •posite to the Celian Hill, are the circular Hall ; and the great Bath, magnificent ruins of CaracaUa*s called Cella Solearis, in length Baths ; which contained sixteen above an hundred and eighty Paris hundred Sellee, or bathing places ; feet, and in width above an hun- besides Labra^ or immense bathing dred and thirty : andnotwithstand- tubs, of granite and porphyrv; in^ these vast dimensions, the and were ornamented with peculi- Ceiling is said to have been sup- arly fine pieces of sculpture ; the ported entirely by bars of bronze, celebrated Belvedere Torso, the or plates of copper, laced together ; Hercules of Glycon, the group but how this was effected is un- called the Toro Pamese, and the known. The Cella Solearis con- Famese Flora, having all been tained, as may still be seen, nine found here. This Bunding (of a entrances for water, which formed squaSreform, and more than a thou- an immense Basin, the lower part sand Paris feet in extent) was of its Walls being cased with begun, according to Eusebius, in Water-proof Mastic, called Ojms the early part of Caracalla's reign, Signinum. Two apartments, which and finished before his death ; ex- appear to have been Kitchens, are cept the Porticos, which were discoverable in this Story ; as are commenced afterwsLrds, and com- ruins of Staircases, which led to pleted by Alexander Severus. The the Upper Storv. The height of Edifice consisted of two Stories the remaining Walls of the Edifice above ground, standing on two is stupendous ; and the whole ex- or three Stories of subterranean hibits one of the noblest specimens apartments : and the most conve- now existing of ancient Roman luent way of seeing what remains, architecture. Recent excavations is to dnve just beyond a Lane, here have brought to light several called Via-Antonina, on the road Mosaic Pavements ; but no fine to the Porta S. Sebastiano, and sculpture, and not much fine mar- enter the first Garden-Gate on the ble : therefore it is to be concluded right ; which leads to part of the that all the best statues and other Ground-floor of these gigantic ornaments of these splendid Balhs ruins : namely, a long line of have long since been discovered Bathing Rooms and other Apart- and removed.

ments ; the former of which are Sepolcro de' Scipioni, This • supposed to have been dedicated Tomb is situated in a Vineyard, to the use of the inferior classes on the Via-Appia, still nearer to of people, and the latter assigned the Porta S. Sebastiano than are to the officers who regulated the the Baths of Caracalla: it is on police of the Baths, and the ser- the left side of the way, and the vants who had the care of the fur- words *'Sepulchra Sctptonum'" are naces, dressmg rooms, ^c. Steps inscribed over the door. TTiis lead. from these ruins to the Story was the Family Tomb of Lucius above them ; where a Gate may Cornelius Scipio Barfoatus, great- be found, which opens into the Via- grandfather of Asiaticus and Airi- Antonina ; toward the upper part caaus : it is a handsome pieoe of of which is another Gfl^e, leading Doric architecture, very perfect.

Ch. VI.) ANTIQUITIES NEAR ROME. 183

veiy extensive, and extremely in- ipan and a half high, and between

teresting, though now robbed of its four and ftve long, many of which

most vfiduable treasures, which are open and empty, others closed

have been removed to the Vatican with a piece of marble, sometimes

Museum. The candles provided by contaimn^ an Inscription. Few of

the Custode of this Subterranean these Cavities appear large enough

Repository are so few in number, to contain a mil-grown person,

that persons who wish to see it though the skeletons of cnildren

distinctly, should carry lights of have frequenUv been found in

their own : it is excessively damp. ' them ; and tnis circumstance

Porta di S, Ssbaatiano, lliis strengthens the prevailing opinion,

is the Appian Gate, sometimes that children, among the ancients,

called Capena^ though that Gate were oftener buri^ than burnt,

appears to have stood below the Here have been discovered several

Villa-Mattei, between the Celian small Vases, called Lachryma-

and Aventine Hills. Immediately tones, though more probably In-

within the Gate of S. Bebastiano cense«Bottles ; and here likewise

is an Arch, called that o/DnuuSy are places for cinerary urns. When

though it probably belonged to an this mark •♦ Jg *' is found upon a

Aqueduct. Monument, it is deemed a sure

Btt9ilioa di S. Sebastiano alle indication of a Martyr's Sepulchre, Catacombe, The Church is about being a composition, from the two miles distant from the Gate : Latin and Greek alphabets, to de- it has a Portico supported by an- note Pro Christo ■. The Cross on tique Columns, and is supposed to a Monument is also considered as have been erected by Constantine. a sign that a Christian lies buried The High-altar displays four Co- tiiere ; but it should be remem- lumns of verde antique ; and over bered that a Cross was the Egyp- the three Doors of ingress are tian emblem of eternal life, and Paintings, by Antonio Caracci. many crosses have been discovered Under this Church are Catacombs, upon Egyptian tombs, and like- originally formed, no doubt, by the wise in the temples of Serapis. ancient Homans, and whence they The Churches of S, Lorenzo and • took the pozzolana with which their S. Agnes also lead to ancient Ca- buildings were made. The Chris- tacombs: their extent cannot be tians enlarged these Catacombs, aoourately known, because it is and, in times of persecution, used impossible to explore every part them as hiding-places and ceme- of them, as their communications teries ; they are said to extend se- with each other are so intricate, veral miles. It is often necessary that several persons have lost to stoop in going through these themselves in these subterra- CavCTns, but, generally speaking, nean labyrinths ; which are sup- they are neiliier damp nor difficmt posed to be the Putieuii men- of access. The Passages are from tioned by Horace, Varro, and two to three feet wide ; the Cham- Festus Pompeius, where the bo- bers (of which there are several,) dies of slaves only, or persons from four to six feet broad, and whose circumstances would not from six to eight in length, some allow of their being burnt on frme- of them being still larger; and here ral piles, were deposited: but, in it is said the primitive Christians process of time, persons of a higher performed their religious exercises, rank might probably be interred In the Walls are Cavities about a here ; for the Homans, before Chris-

(•) XFI2TOS ia the Greek word for Christ.

184 ANTIQUITIES NEAR ROME. [Ch. VI.

tianity prevailed, often buried their Spina, or Platform, (whereon stood

dead, as is evident from monu- the Obelisk now in the Piazza

mental inscriptions beginning with Navona, the Statues, and Altars ;

the words LHis Mattibus, The and where, during the Shows,

Chapel of the Catacombs of S. bands of music are supposed to

Sebastiano contains a Bust of that have been stationed ;) and" the

Saint, by Bernini. It is neces- Foundations of the Carceres,

sary to cany lights, in order to see which appear • to have been ele-

these Catacombs well. gantly ornamented* This Cu*cus

Ctrco di Romolo, On the left is of an oblong shape, with a Cir-

side of the road, and at the foot of cular Wall at the end where the

the hill on which stands the Tomb great mass of spectators entered,

of Coecilia Metella, is the Circus of and a Slightly Curved Wall at the

Romulus (Son ofMaxentius), long opposite end, near the first Meta,

called that of Caracalla ; together or Goal. The breadth of the Cir-

with ruins of various Edifices be- cus, at this end, is much greater

longing to it. Tlie first of these than at the other ; and at each ex-

that presents itself is a large Ro- tremity of the Wall is a Tower,

tondo, supposed to have been the where trumpeters are supposed to

quarters of the F^etorian Guard, have been placed, to give signals,

while the Emperor attended the The Podium, or Stand, for the

Circus ; and, enclosing this Ro- Emperor and his suite, appears to

tondo, whose second story was a have been near the first Meta:

Serapepn", are remains of a double and from the Podium he, or who-

row of lofty wjJls, between which, ever presided at these Shows, gave

it is supposed, were the stables of the signal for beginning the en-

the horses used for the chariot- tertainment. On the opposite side

races ; while the open inner-spdce, of the Circus was the Pretorian

or quadrangle, where stood the Stand. The Archway on a line

before named Serapeon, contained with the imperial Stand, (and im-

the cars. Near this building is an mediately fronting what are called

ancient Sepulchre, leading to the remains of the "femples of Virtue

Circus, which is more perfect than and Honour, built by Marcellus,)

any other of the whole fifteen is, by some antiquaries, supposed

once found at Rome ; for here, the to have been the Triumphal Gate ;

MetcBy the Spinay the situation of and probably the Archway, imme-

the Obelisk, the Seats, and the diately opposite, was the Gate

Porticos whither the spectators re- through which the Dead were

tired in case of rain, have long borne ofil In the centre of the

been discoverable; and the exca- CJarceres there appears to have

vations recently made by the Duke been another Gate, through which,

of Bracciano, for the purpose of perhaps, the cars entered the Cir-

disinterring the hidden part of this cus, in order to be ranged for

•Circus, have brought to view the starting ; and near the first Meta

Great Public Entrance, or Steps is a small Pedestal, where proba-

leading down to the Seats; of bly the imperial Standard might

which Steps six remain on one have been hoisted. The Spina is

side, and seven on the other ; the a wide Platform, elevated con-

Metae, (small buildings, hollow siderably above the race^course,

within, and placed at each extre- divided into compartments, by

mity of the Spina;) the whole narrow paths, and fenced round

(o) Near the Cbvrch of S. Sebastiano was and now preserved in the Capitol. It prolM*

found a sqqare Altar, dedicated to Serapis, bly belonged to the Serapeon here.

Ch. VI.]

ANTIQUITIES NEXR ROME.

185

by dwarf Walls. Pools of water, style of building is not supposed

from elevetn to twelve feet in length, to have been adopted till after the

were, in consequence of the late reign of Caracalla ; therefore. An-

excavations, discovered between ti(|uaries were at a loss to deter-

each Meta and the Spina; and nune the date of the Circus in

the ground thus accidentally over- question, till the recent excava-

flowed, is supposed to have served tions made by the Duke of Brae-

originally for passages from the ciano, to elucidate this matter.

Spina to the Cells under the Metse. produced an Inscription, which

Statues were discovered in, or seems to prove, that the Circus

near, the water ; and broken Bag- was constructed during the reign

si'Ttlievi, representing Chariots of Maxentius, and dedicatra,

and Charioteers, were found near A. D. 311, to his Son, Romulus,

the Metse; which seem to have To the north of this Circus, in

been incrusted with these oma- a neighbouring Vineyard, are re-

ments, and guarded from injury mains of ancient Edifices called

by lai^ Circular Stones, found the Temples of Honour and Vir-

ciose«to themi*. Some Fragments tue, built by Marcellus, after his

of the Bassi-rilievi are weU exe- Sicilian conquests, in the year of

cuted ; others were evidently done Rome 544 ; and said to have been

during the dark ages. It seems so constructed, that it was impos-

probable that the Altars of Consul sible to enter the former, without

were kept in the Cells of the Metse ; passing through the latter. The

though nothing has been found in situation of these Temples is,

those Cells, but bones of quadru- however, a disputed point : Livy

peds. On each side of the Circus places them just without the an-

was a Covered Galleiy, the Roof cient Porta- Capena ; and if this

of which made part of the founda- Gate stood, as antiquaries suppose,

tions of the Seats for spectators, below the Villa-Mattei, in the

The Seats held about twenty thou- narrow part of the Vale, between

sand persons in ten rows on each the Cehan and Aventine Hills,

side ; and the covered Galleries these Ruins are more distant from

were lighted by windows. Com- Rome than were the Temples of

bats of Gladiators and Wild-beasts Honour and Virtue. But it should

were sometimes exhibited in the be remembered that, to ascertain

great area between the first Meta the precise site of the Porta-Ca-

and the Cai*ceres ; and sometimes pena, or any other ancient Gate

water was intr6duced, and Nau- of Rome, is now scarce possible,

machisB represented : but, gene- so often have the City-walls been

rally speakmg, this Circus seems altered t

to have been devoted to Chariot- Sepolcro di Cecilia Metelh,

races. In the WaUs here, (and Had not the Roman Barons, dur-

likewise in some parts of the ing the middle ages, converted this

Wall wMch surrounds Rome,) beautiful Structure into a fortress,

are coarse earthen Vases, whose and built a parapet and port-holes

spherical shape, operating like round its summit, it might have

arches, diminished the perpendicu- lasted to eternity, so durable is the

iar weight of the fabric, and con- manner of its construction. The

tributed to strengthen it. This Monument was erected by Crassus,

(p) The great skill of the charioteer con' gisted in turning his horses as near as possi- ble to each MetOt without injary to his cha* riot : and as the ordinary course was seven rounds of the Circus, he, by these means, con- siderably shortened the distance. But as mnlHlfal chaiiotecfs wer« liable tP strike

their chariots against theMc<«, these circular Stones (lately disinterred) might probably be intended to protect them. Victory was pronounced in favour of the charioteer whose carriage, after seven rounds, first pMsed over a line of white chalk between the first J»frt«  aad the shorter of the two sides of the Qirpns.

166 ANTIQUITIES NIlAIl ROM*. [Oh. Vf.

to enclose the mmains of his Wife, praoious eolumnii which thU

Coeoilia Metella; and notwith* Church presented,) were placed,

standing the above-named ugly from time to time, Portraits of

parapet, is one of the best preserved all the Popes, two hundred and

sepulchral fabrics of ancient Rome, fifty in number, beginning wi^

About two miles from this Mo- B. Peter, and ending with Pius

nument is an ancient public Us* VII. Tlie pavement was com-

trina, where the dead were burnt : posed of fragments of marble ;

and near the Fossm CluilieB^ in among which were ancient sepul-

this neighbourhood, about five chral inscriptions ; and the cen-

miles from Rome, and on a spot tre entrance-door, consisting of

now called Casale RotondOy is the bronze, embellished with oa#«t-

scene of combat between tiie Ho- rilieoi, was cast at Constantinople

rati! and Curiatii, denominated, by in 1070. Repairs were making on

the ancient Romans, Horatiorum the outside of this Basilica, by

campus sacer. No vestige remains order of Pius VII, when very

of tne five monuments erected to early on tiie morning of the six-

the memoiy of the five champions teenth of July, 1824, the Vhole

who were buried there. Roof was discovered to be in

Basiliea di 8. Paolo^fuori delle flames ; and, very soon after, fell Mura, This venerable Edifice, down into the aisles; where the which lately fell a prey to fire, fire raged with such fury that it was erected by Constantine over absolutely calcined the columns the grave of S. Paul ; enlarged of pavonazzo, and those of Pa- l^ Theodosius, finished by Ho- rian marble, which adorned the norius ; and enriched with an middle aisle ; likewise splitting hundred and thirty-two ancient from top to bottom the immense columns of precious marble : the columns which support the Great length of the Structure, exclusive Arch of the Tribuna, and ruining, of the Tribuna, being two hundred in the same manner, the columns and forty Paris feet, and its breadth of Egyptian granite and cipolino one hundred and thirty-eight. An- in the cross-usle. Even the co- cient columns, eighty in number^ lumns of porphyry on each side divided it into five aisles ; and of the altars are, notwithstanding twenty-four of these columns, the extreme hardness of the mar- placed in the middle aisle, were ble, shivered to ^eces ; but the especially magnificent; being of Great Arch of tne middle aisle, the Corinthian Order, and each and the Mosaics with which it is shaft one entire piece of pavo- lined, though damaged, are still nazzo, beautifully and peculiarly remaining ; so likewise are several fluted. Splendid columns of rare of the Portraits of the Popes : marble, forty-two feet in height and the High-altar, under whidi and fifteen in circumference, were rest part of the relics of S. Paul, selected to support the great" arch is not very materially injured, of the Tribuna ; and behind the The Facade, decorated 'with Mo«  shrine of S. Paul was placed a saics of the thirteentii centiuy, column with an equilateral Parian remains entire ; as does the Colon- marble base of seven feet, and nade erected by Benedict XIII ; finely worked. The altars were but the large door of bronze, cast ornamented with thirty columns of at Constantinople, was partly porphyry ; and the high-altar em- melted by the violence of the con- bellished with gems. The Arch fiagration. of the Great Nave was lined with ft is impossible to contemplate Mosaics in the year 440 ; and on these ruins without deef^y regret- the walls, <abo?e the grove of ting that the work of eenUxcimh

Ch. VI.] ANTIQUITIES NEAR ROME. Ut

and the most ancient Basilica o{ the deeetued Duohei* of ChablaU,

fhe Christian world, should haya Returning from S. Paolo aUe tre

been thus rapidly and unaocount* Fontana, we see, on the right,

ably destroyed*!, not for distant from the Tomb of

ChieM di 8. Paolo alle tre Cceeilia Metella, two Excavations, Fontane. Near two miles beyond which have recently disclosed the the ruins of the Basilica of S.Paul lower part of two ancient Roman is the spot where this great Apos- Villas. That nearest to the Tomb tie suffered ; and where conside- of Ooecilia Metella is supposed to rable numbers of Christians were have belonged to the Consul Miii'«  executed, by command of the cus Procus, or his Daughter ; and Emperor Bioclesian, after he had displays the Shape and Walls of employed them in building his several Rooms, where Ba««t-n7twi Baths. On this spot, (anciently and a Statue have been found; ad aquas Salvias,) are three and also some beautiful Pavements. Churches : the first, /S«. Maria The rooms seem to have been Scala Coeli, was built by Vignola, painted like those at Pompeii. The and is thought a good piece of plan of this Villa is discoverable, architecture : the inside, an octa- so far as to prove that the apart- gon, contains a Mosaic, by Fran* ments were small, though nume* cesco Zucca, of the School of Va- rous. Here was found Ancient sari; said to be the first thing Glass, some pieces being very of its kind executed in good taste, thick, others very thin, and in a after the revival of the Arts. Th« state of decay. The ViUa on the second Church, that of Saints hill to the left exhibits Subter- Vincenzo and Anastasio, contains ranean Arches, above which are Frescos of the twelve Apostles, a the Foundations of a square Por- Noli me tangere, and the Bap- tico, once supported, as it seems, tism of our Saviour, all executed by forty stuccoed pillars. The after the designs of Raphael, but centre of this Portico is not ex- much injured, except the two last, cavated : the Walls appear to have The third Church, that of S. Paul, been adorned with Pamtings ; and was built by Giacomo della Porta, the Floors paved, like those of the and does him honour : its interior opposite Vula ; which was disco- contains two Altars, and three vered in consequence of a piece of Fountains called miraculous ; to- tessellated pavement being worked gether with ten Columns of rare out of a mole-hill, marble', which ornament the Chiesa di 8» Urbano alia Caf- fountains and altars. Here is a farella. On the eminence above White Stone, on which S. Paul the Fountain of Egeria is a Church is supposed to have been decapi- dedicated to S. Urbano ; and on* tated: and here, likewise, is a ginally an ancient Temple ; which, Picture of the Crucifixion of S, n-om the old name of the spot, Peter, by Guido; which appears ad Camoenas, was supposed to to have "been finely executed, but have been dedicated to the Muses, is now much spoiled till the discovery (in the subter-

Excavations on the estate of ranean part of the Building) of

(a) Architects say, the beams of cedar. The Kings of England were, before the

which supported the roof of S. Panrs, were fteformation, protectors of the Basilica of 8.

so prodigionsly thick that they must hare Paul, in the same manner as the Emperor of

smouldered for days, before the flames burst Germany is protector of S. Peter's, the Km*

forth : and it is even conjectured that a of France of 8. Otorauni in Laterano, and

train of combustibles must hare been em- the King of Spain of 6*- Maria Maggiore.

ployed in order to make the fire communicate (r) TVo of these col*mii« »w »*"<»» por-

fron» beam to be^n^* pbyry.

188 ANTIQUITIES NEAR ROME. [Ch. VI.

an Altar inscribed to Bacchus, by and round the Walls are Niches,

Apronianus, interpreter of his apparently made for the reception

mysteries, and exhibiting the Dio- of other statues i This is denomi-

nysiac Serpent'. This discovery nated the Grotto of Egeria : but,

led antiquaries to change their as it seems probable that there

opinion, and conclude that the were several of these Nymphceix

Temple was consecrated to Bac- in the vicinity of the Almo, and as

chus. Four fluted Composite Co- it likewise appears, from classic

lumns of white marble, which writers, that the Fountain of Ege-

appear to have originally sup- ria was near the ancient Porta-

ported the Portico, or vestibule, Capena, we have no good autho-

now make part of the Exterior rily for calling the Fountain in

Wall of the Church : under the question that of Egeria.

Portico, on the right of tfie En- Tempio di Bedtcolo, or more

trance-door, is the Altar inscribed properly Redeundo. Beyond the

to Bacchus; and the interior of Fountam called that of Egeria,

the Church (in form a paralldo- and standing in the same valley,

gram) is ornamented with a fine is a beautiful small Structure of

Frieze of Stucco, and Medallions brick, ornamented with pilasters,

of the same description on the and once embellished with a portico

Ceiling. The Crypt, where the now destroyed. This building has

Dionysiac Altar was found, merits long been denominated Tempio di

notice, as it probably made part RedicolOy or, more properly. Re-

of the ancient Temple. deundo ; which Temple was erected

Fontana della Dea Egeria. This when Hannibal raised the siege of

Grotto, according to Flaminius Rome and returned toward Naples,

Vacca, was consecrated, by Numa and therefore called the Temple of

Pompilius, to the Wood-Nymphs; the Returriy as the word expresses :

and the water which supplied its and the situation of the structure

Fountain was the Ovidian Almo. in question on a spot supposed to

At the upper end of a Grotto be the site of Hannibal's Camp%

displaying considerable remains of would establish the belief that it

the opus reticulatum, and situated may be remains of the Temple of

below the Temple of Bacchus, in the Return, did not Pliny describe

the Valley of the Caffarella, (for- that Temple as standing to the

merly ad Camoenas,) are remains right of the Via-Appia, m an op-

of a Recumbent Statue, called posite direction.

' Egeria, though supposed, by anti- Porta-Pia, This Gate, built

quaries, to represent the Almo * ; by Pius IV, was anciently called

(«) The Dionysia were festivals in honour dawn, and ends abont mid-day. The lower of Bacchus, originally instituted by the classes of modem Romans, as already men- Greeks; thoogh afterwards observed by the tioned, retain many of the religious customs Romans. Small gold baskets, containing of their ancestors ; and therefore this annual fruits mingled with serpents, were sometimes festival tends to confirm the opinion of the carried by noble virgins At these festivals. Church of S. Urbano alia Caffarella having The worshippers imitated, in their dress and been originally a Temple of fiacchus. actions, the poetical fictions concerning Bac- (0 The Aqua Mercurii, with which Roman chus ; they clothed theniselves with fauns* shopkeepers olessed their goods, skins, fine linen, and mitrcS ; carrying in (v) Near half a mile beyond the Porta S. their hands thyrsi, drums, pipes, and Antes, Sebastiano, on the left, is a small rivulet, and rrowning their heads with garlands of which being impeded in its course, has formed ivy, vine-leaves, flowers, &c. And the lower a Marsh : beyond this rivulet is a gradual classes of the modem Romans go annually, ascent to the Chapel of Domine quo . vadit, on the first Sunday in May, to the Valley of where the road divides into two branches ; the Caffarella: where thev carouse, and that on the left leading to the Tempio di crown themselves with garlands of flowers ; Redeundo : and from the commencement of thence returning to Rome, like Bacchanals, the Marsh to this Temple, and perhaps fur- dMcing and singing to various instruments ther, appears to have ]l>een the site of Hanni' oi'music. This festival commences with the bal'sCamp.

h

Ch. VI.] ANTIQUITIES NEAR ROME. . 189

Porta- Nomentana; because it led That part of the Ceiling nearest to

to Nomentum. the circular wall is adorned with

Chiesa di S, Agnese fuori di beautiful ancient Mosaics, repre- Porta-Pia, This Edifice, which senting a Vintage, Birds, and Ara- is about one mile from Rome, was besques ; and apparently executed erected by Constantine over the when the arts were in their high- grave of S. Agnes, at the desire est perfection. The porphyry Sar- of his Daughter Constantia. A cophagus, ornamented wilh Bovs Corridor, containing forty - five and Grapes, which is now in the steps of fine marble, leads down Vatican Museum, was taken from into the Church ; and on the Walls this Temple, of this Corridor are ancient In- Adjoimng to the Church of S*. scriptions. The Nave is supported Costanza are considerable remains by sixteen antique Columns ; two of a Structure supposed to have of which are pavonazzo, beauti- been a Hippodrome, built by Con- fully fiuted; and the only specimen stantine^

of the kind now to be met with A little, further on, is the Villa-

at Rome. Four other Columns, Faonte, where it is believed that

near the High-altar, are of rare Nero put an end to his existence ;

marble ; and those which support and, about one mile from liiis

the Baldacchino are of the finest Villa, is the Ponte Lamentano, an-

porphyry. The High- altar is com- ciently Pons Nomentantts, near

posed of precious marbles, and which are remains of two Sepul-

enriched with two antique Cande- chres ; that on the left seems to

labra of bronze gilt ; under it lie have been the Tomb of Menenius

the ashes of S. Agnes. The Cha- Agrippa, and now serves as a

pel of the Madonna contains a shelter for oxen; the other is

beautiful antique Candelabrum, nearly destroyed. Immediately be-

and a Head of our Saviour, by hind these tombs rises, in an am-

Michael Angelo. phitheatrical form, the Mons Sacer;

Chiesa di /S«. Costanza. Near whither the Plebeians retired, in

the Church of S. Agnes is that the year of Rome 260, by the ad-

of S*. Costanza; dedicated, by vice of Sicinius ; tiU persuaded to

Constantine, to Christian worship, return, by the eloquence of the

that it mi^ht serve as a burial- above-named Menenius A^ippa:

place for his daughter. This ele- and whither they again retired, in

fant Rotondo, supposed to have the year of Rome 305, in conse-

een originally a Temple conse- quence of the tyranny of Appius

crated to Bacchus, still retains its Claudius.

ancient form. The Cupola is sup- Porta di S, Lorenzo, This

ported by twenty-four granite Co- Edifice, originally one of the ar-

lumns, placed in a double circle ; ches of the Martian, Tepulan,

and in the middle of the Church is and Julian aqueduct, was made

an elevated Platform, on which tlie into a City-gate by Aurelian ; who

Pagan Altar seems formerly to csL^ed it Porta- Collatina, because

have stood, and where the remains it leads to Collatia, where Lucretia

of S. Costanza afterwards rested, killed herself.

' (tt) Beyond the Church of S. Costanza, on antiquity; as the Aqua Martia is supposed

the right, in the Garden of the Villa-Ruffini, to have been conveyed to Rome from the

is a Columbarium, recently discovered, and Lake Fucinus, (above thirty miles distant,)

containing a large number of cinerary urns, by Ancus Martius. , .

human bones, and inscriptions. It appears (x) This Gate, according to the Inscription

to have been a public burial-place. it bears, must have been reconstructed by

(to) The Martian Aqueduct, an Etruscan Honorius. work* merits notice, on account of its great

190 . ANTIQUITIES NEAR ROME. [Ch.Vt.

BoiiUea di S. totmzo. About given because the €k,te standi! in one mile from the Gate of S. Lo- the road to S*. Maria Ma^ore. renzo is this Church ; which was About three miles distant from erected by Constantine on the the Forta-Majggiore, and parallel jEbundations of a Temple conse- with the ancient Yia^Prsenestina, crated to Neptune, of which there is a spot called Tor de" Schiavi; are considerable and beautiful re- where, among other ruins, are re- mains : namely, the six Pillars of mains of 'a Temple, the subtara- the Portico, four of which are nean part of which particularly fluted ; two Pillars of green por* merits notice. ph5ny at the extremity of the Tri- Porta S, Giovanni. This Gate, buna behind the High-altar ' ; four formerly called Celimontanoy from of red porphyry, which support being placed on the Jlfon^-C^/tW, the Baldacchino ; a fine antique was restored by Gregory XIII, ac- Oomice round the Tribuna ; ten cording to the designs of Giacomo fluted Columns of pavonazzo, della Porta. . partly buried in the earth, two of The road beyond the Porta S. them having MiUtary Capitals, Giovanni exhibits magnificent re- the other eight Corinthian Capi- mains of the Claudian, Tepulan, tals beautifully executed ; twenty- and Martian Aqueducts ; together two Columns of oriental granite, with several ancient tombs: and which support the Nave ; together previous to passing the Acqua with some Very Ancient Pave- Santa, formerly cafled Salutare^ ment, and some of the time of we find a small, square, brick Constantine. To the right, on en- Edifice, adorned with Doric Co- tering the Church, is a Sarcopha- lumns, and supposed to have been ^s, ornamented with Bassi-rtlievi the Temple of Fm-tunee Muliebris representing an ancient Marriage- erected by the Roman Senate, in eeremony I and, behind the High- honour of the Roman Matrons, on altar is another Sarcophagus with the spot where Vetuna and Yo- Bacchanalian emblems. The ashes lumma overcame the determina- of S. Lorenzo, and other Christian tion of Coriolanus '. This Temple Martyrs, r&st here. is supposed to have been restored

Porta-Maggiore, This Gate, by Faustina the younger ; because

fbrmerly called Pramestina^ is one we see, on the reverse of her silver

of the arches of the CasteUum of medals, a figure of Fortune with

the Claudian Aqueduct, which con- this legend : Teyed three streams of water to

Rome: two coming forty-five miles, FouTVNiK Mtlibbrt. and the third above sixty. It is

practicable, by the aid of a ladder. Further on, to the right, and about

to ascend into this Aqueduct at ^ye miles from Rome, is a laige

the Gate of S. Lorenzo. The an- farm, belonging to the Torlonia

oient PortorPreenestina seems to family, and called Roma Vecchia ;

have been so called because it led but, probably, nothing more than

to Prseneste ; and the modem an ancient Roman Viuage ; (as the

name might, probably, have been suburbs of the City could scarce

{}/) The Lizard and the Prog of tlie Spar- Oitjr. on the road leading to Tnsenlnm :'* aad

tan arcbitects, already mentioned, are said the same writer adds, **that the Temple of

to be discoverable on one of the columns of Female Fortune was erected on tins spot, by

the Tribuna. the Roman Senate and People; and her Sta-

^ (z) Dionvsius of Halicamassns says, ** Co- tues, two in number. Cone presented by the

Yiolanus,wnen he threatened Rome the second Roman Ladies, the other by the SeiiAte wd

Unei encamped about thirty 9t«des from ttiat People,) placed in the Tem^e,"^

t^-'

Oh. VI J KOMft 191

have extended so far ; ) vvhere, ble ; ** and finom the rif^ht hand side

amone other ruins, are the remains marched out the Fabii ":' At each

of a Theatre, Diteta, and Reser- Gate a bronze statue of some god*

Toirs of Baths, one of them being or tutelar genius, seems to have

full of water: they precisely re- been placed: and Lucretius men-

semble the Sette Salle of the Baths tions that the right hands of these

of Titus'* Bevond these reser- statues were perceptibly worn by

yoirs, and still further to the right, the frequent kisses of passengers, is a peculiarly shaped Tomb, which The Gates of Rome ai« now

belonged to the family of Coecilia twelve in number. MeteUa.

WALLS OV HOHB. OATBS Olf BOMB, KOT iaRBAl>Y

MBNTioicBD. The Original Walls of Rome, aa

we are toM by Dionysius of Hali-

Porta'Angelica, built by Pius camassus, were made with rough

IV. Near this Gate passed the stones' placed carelessly one upon Via' Triumphalis, which came another: but Tarquinius Priscus down from the Clivus CinntB, a erected Walls of stones cut square Dart of the Janiculum, now called and smooth, each one being suffi- Monte-Mario. ciently laroe to load a car. He

Porta^Latinat supposed to have likewise added to this defence an

been the Porta-Firentina, Aggers or broad Rampart of earth,

Porta-Pinciana^ said to have bordered by a deep and wide Ditch,

taken its name from the palace of Antiquaries have not been able to

the Pincion family which stood near ascertain the exact limits of hia^

it> and from whom the whole Hill Ag^er ; though vestiges of this'

was called Mons-Pincitu. fortification are said to exist on

Porta- Portese, so denominated the Quirinal Hill, to the north-

from the magnificent Harbour of east of Dioclesian's Baths. Ves-

Porto, constructed by Claudius, tiges of the Agger constructed by

The gardens, which Juhus Cessar Servius Tullius, (who enclosed the

bequeathed to the people, are sup- rest of the Quirinal, the Viminal,

S>sed to have been near this and the Esquiline Hills,) are, as

ate. already noticed, veiv apparent, un-

Poria (k S, Pancrasio, anci- der the Terrace of the Casino-Bar-

eaUy called AurelicL By this Gate berini, in the Domain of Sallust :

Trajan's Aqueduct enters Rome : and leading from the Iron Gate of

iur course is thirty-five miles ; and that Casino to the Mound called

in consequence of having been Campus Scderatus^ is another

renewed and augmented by Paid Rampart of earth, which seems to

V, it is now called Acqua-Paolo. have been either a continuation of llie most frequented roads which Servius TuUius's Agger ^ or part of

kd to Rome are supposed to have that previously made by Tarquiniui

had double Gates ; one being al" Priscus. These Aggers probably

lotted to those persons who en« extended from the Salarian to the

ttred the City, and the other to Esquiline Gates ; because this

those who quitted it. Thus the quarter of Rome was, by nature,

ancient Carmental Gate was dou- undefended. Aurelian enclosed the

»

(a) Accordiag to lomA opinions tliese rnint phwi, have been found here, made part of the aaeient Pagu» Lemonivi (b) The JfoM-PiactM and ^U(m-Mmt¥i^

j^t, according to others, they are nothing jonim are synonymous, more than the remains of an immense Villa* (e) LlYlVti i» Si <r« 49. Preeioiw marbles, stataesy busts, and saroo-

192 ROMB. ' [Oh. VI.

Campus Martius, and added con- converted into part of the City-

siderably to the extent of the City : walls by Constantine, or Honorius.

indeed, Vopiscus asserts, that Au- TheWalls near the Porta-Maggiore

relian's Wall was near fifty Roman .were probably built, or repaired

miles in circumference ^. How far during the thirteenth century, when

this assertion merits credit we have that Gate was formed out of one

no means of ascertaining : but the of the Arches of the Castellum of

present Walls of Rome are cer- the Claudian Aqueduct. TheWalls

tainly not more tlian firom fifteen extendMig from iheAnyi>hithecUrum

to sixteen Roman miles in circum- Castrense to the Porta S. Giovanni,

ference, comprehending that part and onward in that direction, are

erected by Leo IV, about the year supposed to be of the time of Ho-

850,to enclose the Afo««-Fa/«cawM*, nonus: as indeed are the greater

and secure S. Peter's against the part of the Walls which now sur-

incursions of the Saracens. Dio- round Rome : though, in some

nysius of Halicamassus records, places, and particularly between

that Rome, in the forty-seventh the Porta-Pia and the Porta S.

year after the expulsion of her Lorenzo, there are portions of

kings, was about the size of Athens, these Walls which bear the stamp

Phny mentions the Walls of the of very remote antiquity, first-named city as being, in the

dajs of Titus, rather more than bridobs of Rome. tlurteen Roman miles in circum- ference; and, therefore, previous Pons jElius, now Ponte S. to the extension of the Walls by Angela, This fine Bridge, con- Aurelian, they could scarce have structed by the Emperor iEUus contained above one million of Adrianus, and therefore called person^! ; and consequently the au- Pons jElius, was repaired by Cle- thors who compute the population ment IX, who, under the direction of ancient Rome at four millions, of Bernini, added the Balus- must have included the suburbs, trades and Statues, which still re- which unquestionably were im- main.

mense *. Between the Porta del Pons Triumphaiis, so called, be-

Popolo and the Porta- Pinciana' cause the Roman generals passed

the present Walls seem to have over this Bridge, when they ob-

been repaired in the Saracenic tained the honour of a triumph,

manner ; from the Porta- Pinciana It is now destroyed ; but its re-

to the Porta-Salara they are sup- mains may be discovered between

posed to have been the work of the Castle of S. An^elo and the

Behsarius : between the Porta-Pia Church of S. Giovanni de* Fioren-

and the Porta S. Lorenzo they tini when the Tiber is low.

display a specimen of the style of Ponte Sisto, formerly called

buUding in the reign of Tiberius ; Pons Janiculensis, on account of

as, near the former Gate, there is its proximity to the Janiculum

in the Wall a Quadrangular Pro- Hill. According to some opinions, jection, supposed to be remains of this Bridge was built by IVajan ;

Barracks erected by him for his and, according to others, by An-

Pretorian Guarils ', and afterwards toninus Pius. It was repaired by

t>(<0 Voptscns wag oontemporarjr with Aare- {f) Now closed up.

liaac but is supposed to be incorrect (^) Pan of the Cattrum Prtetorium may be

• (^ .Diooysius of Halicamassus says, ** It traced in a Vineyard adjoining to the Uity-

is difficnlt to.determine the extent of Rome, walls ; and seems to hare been in shape a

beoiiise the magnificent buildings on the sides parallelogram, surrounded by a double agger :

of the highways aeem to be a continued City." it had four entrances.

Ch.VI.]

ROME.

193

Sixtus IV, and, in consequence. Pons Subliciui. This Bridge,

called by his name. the first thrown over the Tiber,

Pons FabriciuSy now Ponte dei was the work of Ancus Martins ;

quattro Capi, This Bridge was and acquired the name of SublU

constructed, in the year of Rome dus from the wooden piles which

690, by Fabricius, Curator Viarum supported it. On this Bridge Ho-

(inspector of roads,) and called ratius Cocles stopped the army

Quattro Capi from foiu- Hermse of of Porsena, till the Romans had

Janus Quadrifrons, with which it broken down that part which was

was ornamented **. behind their gallant Leader ; who

Pons Cestius, now Ponte di S. then ttirew himself into the river,

Bartolommeo, This Bridge was and swam to Rome. After that

constructed by Cestius, m the event, the planks were laid across,

time of the Republic, and repjaired without bemg fixed with nails, that

about the year 367 of the Christian they might be removed, in case

era. of sudden danger. This Bridge

Pons PcdatinuSy or Senatorius, was repaired, under Augustus, by

broken down, and now called M. ^milius Lepidus; and after-

Ponte Rotto. This was the first wards by Antoninus Pius : but an

Edifice of its kind which the an- inundation, in the year 780, broke

cient Romans built of stone. The it down ; and under Nicolas V it

Censor Fulvius is supposed to was wholly destroyed. From this

have begun, and Scipio Africanus Bridge the bodies of Commodus

and L. Mummius to have finished and Heliogabalus were thrown into

it. Julius III, and Gregory XIII, the Tiber; and when that river is

repaired this Bridge ; but the ex- low, tiie remains of the Founda-

traordinary inundations of the Ti- tions of the Bridge may be seen

ber, during the middle of the six- from Ripa-grande. teenth century, totally destroyed it.

(K) The four Herin» M'hicH originallr one or two, beio^ placed behind a door, it it

ornamented this Bridge may still be discovered not easy to find them, l^ing on the ground in its yicinity ; thoagh

194

Chapter VII, ROME.

BMilica di S. Pietto— Obelisk— Foxiiitaina— Colonnades— Covered Galleriea— Vestibnle— Kx- terior dimensions and decorations of the Church— Interior dimensions, &c.~- Snbterranean Chareh— Ascent to the Cupola and the top of S. Peter's— Old Sacristy— New Sacristy— Vaticano — Museo-Chiaramontl— Mnseo Pio-Clementino — Libreria Vaticano — Chiesa della Trinitk de' Monti — Obelisk— Chiesa dei P. P. Cappnccini — Palaazo-Barberini— Chiesa di S«. Maria della Vittoria— Fontanadi Termine— Chiesa di S. Andrea— Palaiio-Pontificlo — Palazzo-Rospigliosi — Garden of ditto — ^Fonttoa di IVeTi — Chiese di S*. Maria del PopoW -^S. Carlo al Corso—S. Lorenzo in Lucina— S. Ignazio— de* S. S. Apostoli— di S*. MariA .-^ Loretto— Qes<k--S. Andrea della Valle— delU Trihitk de* Pelefrini— di S. Carlo a Catenani— S. Oioyanni de* Fioreniini-S*. Maria in Vallicella— S*. Maria della Pace— S«  Agostino'-Palaiai Borffaese — Seiarra — ^Doria — ^Bracciano — Colonna — Qinstiniaili — Chies* di S. Lnigi di Francia — Palazzi Massimi — Braschi — ^Famese — Spiada — Mattei— Costa* futi — ^Falconieri— Famesina — Corsini — ^Accademia di S. Laca — ^Hospitals — ^Mosaic Ma- nufacture—Artists — ^Medical Men — Bankers — Theatres — Carnival — Festival on the Monte- Testaccio— Amusements during Lent — Ceremonies of the Holy Week— Easter-day— • other Days on which the Pope officiates in public — Entertainments given to the Em- peror of Austria — Protestant Chapel — ^Hotels — ^List of Objects best worth notice, as they lie eontiguous to each other — Promenades — Villas Oligiati, Boi^hese, Ludovisia, Albani, and Mattel— Church of S. Onofrio—Fontana-Paolina— Villas Doria-Pamfili, Madam** and Mellini.

Basilica di S. Pietro, '^. Pb- hundred men and one hundred

ter's is placed on the summit of and sixty horses, the Work was

a gentle acclivity, in an immense not accomplished under eight days:

Piazza of an oval form, once the and to transport the Obelisk to

Circus of Nero. Its centre is the place where it now stands;

adorned with an Obelisk of red though only- three hundred paces

Egyptian .Granite ; the only one from the spot where it lay, cost

at Home which has been preserved four months' labour^ But the

entire : it was transported from greatest proof of Fontana's skill in

Heliopolis to Ostia by order of mechanics was displayed when he

Caligula; and afterwards placed, elevated this stupendous mass,

by Nero, in his Circus * : it mea- and fixed it in its present situation,

sures one hundred and twenty-six by the add of machines consisting

Paris feet from the ground to tiie of fifty-two powers, all of which

top of the cross ; and was erected were applied at the same moment,

by Sixtus V, under the direction in obedience to preconcerted sig-

of Fontana ; who, in order to nals. Having oeen raised to a

raise it out of the earth in which proper height, it was placed,

it lav buried, contrived forty- one amidst the acclamations of the

i&achines with strong ropes and people and the discharge of cannon

iron rollers ; and though all the from the Castle of S. Angelo, on

powers of these macmnes were the backs of four lions, without

4t>plied at once, by means of eight any cement; its own weight being

(0 This Obelisk is a single piece of gra- Nuncoreus, the son of Sesostris; and dedi-

nite, seventy-six Pans feet in length, but cated, by Caligula, to Angnstns and Tiberias,

without hieroglyphics; it was cut out of the The dimensions of the vessel which conveyed

quarries of byene, erected at Heliopolis by it to Rome are giyen by Pliny, X46.X6, Cop. 40.

Ch. VII.J ROME. 195

suflacient to ensure it from falling, on the summit of a noble flight of Keport says, however, that Fon- steps, adorned with Statues of S tana nearly miscarried in this last Peter and S. Paul, by Mino di operation ; the ropes having Resole. The Vestibule (which is stretched so much more than he four hundred and thirty-nine Paris expected, that the Obelisk could feet in length, by thirty-seven wide iiot have been raised high enough and sixty-two high) contains to rest on its pedestal, if an Eng- Equestrian Statues of Constantine lish sailor, at a time when everjr and Charlemagne '^ ; together with spectator was restricted from a celebrated Mosaic, by Giotto, speaking, lest the signals should called La Namcella di S. Pietro. not be heard by the workmen, had The Front of the Basilica, three not, in defiance to this order, hundred and seventy Paris feet in called out— "Wet the ropes;" length, and one hundred and forty- which was accordingly done, and nine in height, was built according the Obelisk in consequence raised to the designs of Cajrlo Mademo ; to its destined height. One of the and is ornamented with immense beautiful Fountains of this Piazza Corinthian Columns and Pilasters was erected by Innocent VIII i of travertino ; each Column be- the other by Clement X; and ing eight feet three inches in dia- the Colonnades (a master-piece meter, and eighhr-e^t feet high, of architecture) were built by base and capital inclusive. TRie Bernini, during the Pontificate of front is terminated with a Balus- 'Alexander VII. Their form is trade surmounted by thirteen co- semi-circular ; and they consist of losSal Statues, seventeen feet in two hundred and eighty-four large height, and representing our Sa- Doric Columns of travertine, in- viour and the Apostiea.' The termixed with Pilasters, and form- Basso-rilievOy under the Bkl^ony in^, on each side of the Piazza, a in the centre of the building, is by Tnple Portico, that in the centre Buonvicino, and represents ouf being sufficiently spacious for two Saviour giving the keys to S. carriages to pass each other. The Peter. 'Die Centre Boor of the height of these Colonnades is six- Church is bronze, ornamented ty-one Paris feet, the breadth fifly- with BasH-rilievi ; and was made six, and on the entablature is a Ba- during the Pontificate of Eugenius lustrade ornamented with one hun- IV ; and over ttiis Door is a Basso" dred and ninety-two statues, each rilievo, by Bernini, representhig being* about eleven feet and a half our Saviour intrusting the care (3 in height. The Fountains were his Flock to S. Peter. The cir- made after the designs of Carlo cumstance of that Apostle having Mademo ; they throw a consider- been buried in the Circus of Nero able body of water nme feet high ; induced Constantine to erect, over and the circular Basins which re- his remains, a spacious Church ; ceive this water are entire pieces which, after standing eleveh cen- of oriental granite, fifty feet in turies, at length fell into decay, and circumference. Beyond the Co- Nicholas V began to re-build it, lonnades are two magnificent co- about the year 1450, according td yered Galleries, or Cloisters, each the plans of Rosellini send Albert! : three hundred and sixty Paris feet his successors, however, diseoiH in length, and leading to the Ves- tinned the work, till the PontificaVe tibule of ihe Basilica, which stands of Paul II, under whom it was re-

(ft) The statue of Charlemagne is by Aeostino Comacchmi, aad that

of Constantine by Bernini.

o 2

19a ROME* [Ch.VII.

sumed. Julius II (elected Pope the height, from the Pavement to about thirty years after the death the first Gallery, one hundred and of Paul) chose the famous Bra- seventy-four, to the second Gallery, mante as his architect ; who form- two hundred and forty, to the re- ed the design of erecting a Cupola presentation of the Deity in the in the centre of the Edifice. On Lantern, three hundred and ninety- the demise of Julius and Bra- three, and to the summit of the mante, Leo X intrusted the work exterior Cross, four hundred and to Raphael, and other persons: forty-eight feet*. So admirably after their death Paul III chose proportioned is this Basilica, that, Sangallo as his architect; and upon notwithstanding its immense size, the decease of this artist, com- no person, at first sight, perceives Qiitted the work to Michael An- the dimensions to be remarkably gelo, who made a new design for large ; and the Statues of Children, tne Cupola : he likewise intended which support the Vases for holy to have erected a portico, resem- water, do not appear more than bling that of the Pantheon ; but three feet in height, though they death frustrated his purpose. Sue- are really gigantic. The interior ceeding architects, however, were of this master-piece of human ge- directed to go on with his Cupola ; nius is incrusted with rare and which was completed during the beautiful marbles, adorned with Pontificate of Sixtus V. Carlo the finest Pictures in Mosaic exist- Mademo finished the other part of ing, and supported by an immense the BasUica, in the Pontificate of number of magnificent Columns^ Paul V ; and Pius VI erected the the greater part of which are an- new sacristy. Michael Angelo in- tique ; and seven, if report speak tended to have built S. Peter's in true, were taken fi*om Solomon's the form of a Greek cross ; but Temple. The Pavement is marble. Carlo Mademo followed the plan and veiy handsome, of Bramante, and made a Latin Tlie Sacra Confessione was de- one. In tiie year 1694, this Edi- signed by Carlo Mademo, and is fice was supposed to have cost encircled by a beautiful Balustrade, 47,000,000 Roman crowns ; and composed of splendid marbles, and much more has been since ex- decorated with above an hundred pended for the Mosaics, the new superb and elegant Lamps, which Sacristy, ^c, are always burning. A Double The interior length of S. Peter's Staircase leads down to the interior from the Entrance-door to the end part ; which is incrusted with a of the Tribuna, is six hundred and profusion of precious marbles, and fourteen English feet ; the breadth embellished by Statues of S. Peter of the Nave two hundred and seven, and S. Paul, and other appropriate the breadth of the Cross seventy- ornaments : but here, in 1822, was nine, the diameter of the Cu- erected (to tlie regret of every per- pola one hundred and thirty-nine, son of taste "*) a semi-colossal

(0 These dimensions are taken from a Ma- hundred and six feet, and their height one

Buscript, hnng up in the lower gallery of the hundred and sixty-six feet— the diameter of

Capola. ^ the Cupola one hundred and thirty feet — and

According to Vaei, the interior length, from the height, from the pavement under the Cu-

the Entrance of the Basilica tor that part of pola to the extremity of the cross on its sum-

the Tribnna immediately below the Chair of mit, four hundred and twenty-four feet.

S. Peter, is, Paris feet, five hundred and (w) It is said that Canova shed tears on

aeventy-five— the breadth of the Great Nave being directed to place the Statue in its pre-

eighty-two feet, and its height one hundred sent situation. The remains of Pius VI, iUus-

and forty-two— the breadth of each Side Aisle trious for the patience and resignation he dis-

twen^r reet— the circnmference of each of the played in adversity, have been lately deposited

four Pillars which support the Cupola two near the Cappella deUa Sacra Con&MlOBe.

Ch.VIl.3 ROME. nt

statue, by Canova, of Pius VI ; Spaniard, Pygmalion like, is said representing the Pontiff on his to have fallen in love with this knees before the magnificent Gates Statue ; in consequence of which of bronze gilt which enclose what it was clothed with a bronze gar- ought, properly speaking, to be ment. Near the Tribuna is the called the Sacra Confesstone; be- Tomb of Alexander VIII, adorned cause it is part of the ancient Ora- with a beautiful Basso-rilievo, by tory built over the grave of S. Angelo Rossi; and over the Altar Peter ; and in this small Chapel of S. Leo the Great, between Co- rest the mortal remains of that lumns of red oriental granite, is an Apostle. The sumptuous Baldac- Alto-rilievo of that Pope threaten- chino which canopies the High- ing Attila, King of the Huns, with altar was erected by Urban VIII, the vengeance of S. Peter and S. after the designs of Bernini ; and Paul, by Algardi I ! Near this is made of bronze gilt, and near Altar are two fine Mosaics •» ; the ninety feet high. The designs for one, representing the Crucifixion of the Mosaics in the Cupola under S.* Paul, being a copy fi*om a cele- which the Baldacchino stands, brated picture, by Guido ; the other were drawn by Giuseppe d'Arpino ; representing the Fall of Simon and the Evangelists particularly Magus, fi*om a celebrated picture merit notice ; as do the Statue of by Francesco Vanni. Further on S. Andrew near the High-altar, is a Mosaic of Raphael's Trans- by Du Quesnoy, and that of S. figuration ; and near it the Tomb Bomenico, by Le Gros. The of Leo XI, by Algardi. On this bronze Statue of S. Peter is said to side of the Church is the Cappella have been cast during the Pontifi- del Coro, where the Cardinals, cate of Gregory the Great, from Canons, ^c, assemble daily, to at- the fragments of a demolished tend divine worship; ana where statue of Jupiter Capitolinus. At there is particularly good music, the upper end of the middle Nave Not far hence, over a door lead- is the Tribuna, decorated accord- ing to one of the Organ-lofts, in ing to the designs of Michael An- an unomamented tomb, rest the gelo ; and containing the Chair of remains of Pius VII — perhaps the 8. Peter ; above which the Holy most amiable and exemplaiv So- Ghost is represented in painted vereign who ever occupiea the glass, in the form of a Dove. On Papal throne I and over the door each side of the Tribuna is a mag- which leads to the Cupola is a nificent Monument ; that on the Monument to the memory of Ma- right, by Bernini, being in memory ria- Clementina Sobieski, with her of Urban VIII, (whose Statue is Picture copied in Mosaic by the finely executed in bronze;) and Cav. Cristofari, from a painting by that on the left designed by Mi- Sterne. The last Chapel on this chael Angelo, and executed by side contains the Baptismal Font, Guglielmo della Porta, in memory originally the Tomb of the Emperor of Paul III : I ! it represents Pru- Otho II ; it is of pbrphyiy, with dence as an old woman, and Jus- bronze ornaments, executed by tice as a girl, so beautiful that a Fontana. Over the Altar in this

(n) These Mosaics, called Roman^ consist calcined marble, fine sand, g^nm-tragacanth,

of small pieces of glass (some of them beinv whites of eggs, and oil; which composition

scarcely larger than pins' heads) tinctured continues, for some time, so soft, that_ there is

with aU the different degrees of colour neces- no difficulty either in arranging the pieces, or

sary to form a picture : and, when the mosaics altering any which may have been improperly

are finished, they are polished in the same placed-: but, by decrees, it grows as hard as

manner as mirrors. The ground on which marble; so that no impression can be made qh

those Yitreons particles aro placed consists of the work^

•a.

198 ROME, [Ch.VII.

Chapel ifl a fine Mosaic, copied recumbent Statues of two Lions from a celebrated picture by Carlo are admirably executed, and espe- Maratta, representing the baptism cially that which sleeps. Further of our Saviour. On the opposite on is a copy, in mosaic, of Guidons side of the Church is a Cnapel chef-d'oeuvre, the Arch-Angel Mi- containing a Pieta by Michael chael, and likewise a copy, in mo- Angelo, which not bemg equally sale, of Guercino^s celebrated pic- colossal wiUi alnM)st every other ture, representing the Story of S. surrounding object, appears to dis- Petroniua. Tliis is deemed the advantage : the Frescos here are finest Mosaic in S. Peter's ; and by Lanfranco : on this side, like- was executed by the Cav. Cristo- wise, is a Chapel containing a fan. Beyond the Altar of S. Pe- Column, said to be that against tronilla is the Monument of Cle- which our Saviour leaned when he ment X, whose Statue was done disputed with the Doctors ; and a by Ercole Ferrata : opposite to Sarcophagus which once enclosed this Tomb is a cop^r, in mosaic, of the asnes of Probus Anicius, Pre- S. Peter raising Tabitha, by Placido SgMstofRome. The Braschi-Cha- Costanza. The ten Mosaics in the pel contains a Crucifix, by Ghir- small Cupolas are executed after landajo. Further on, toward the the designs of celebrated painters. high-altar,is the Tomb of Christina Under S. Peter's is a subterra- of Sweden bv Fontana ; and over pean Church, built by Constantine, the altar of the Chapel of S. Se- into which ladies are not usually bastiano is a fine Mosaic of the allowed to descend without permis- Martyrdom of that Saint, copied sion from the Pope ; this permis- from a celebrated picture, by Do- sion, however, may easily be ob* menichino. Beyond this Chapel is tained.

the Tomb of the Countess Matilda At the entrance of the circular

(who died in 1115,) by Bernini; Corridor of the subterranean

and opposite to the Cappella ddl Church is the already mentioned

Coro is the Cappella dd Sacra- Cappdla della Sacra Confessione :

mento, which contains a rich Ta- it stands immediately under the

bemade, made after the designs of High- altar of the new Church ;

Bernini, and an Altar-piece painted and was ornamented by Clement

in fresco by Pietro da Cortona; VIII with precious marbles, and

here, likewise, is the Tomb of Six- twenty- four bronze Bcusi-rilievi^

t\xslYtinhrotae,yfiihBa$si-rilievi representing memorable Events in

by Antonio Poll^uolo. Further the Lives of S. Peter and S. Paul,

on is the Tomb of^ Gregory XIII, whose Portraits, painted on silver,

adorned by Statues of Religion and adorn its Altar. Opposite to this

Energy, the latter of which is much Chapel is the Sarcophagus of Ju-

admired ; and near this Monument nius Bassus, Prefect of Rome ;

is a beautiful copy, in mosaic, of who died in the year 359.' Here,

Domenichino*a chef-doBuvre, the likewise, are several other Tombs ;

Communion of S. Girolamo ; for namely, that of Charlotte, Queen

which picture he received only of Jerusalem and Cyprus ; that of

three crowns. Further on, is a the Stuarts ; and those of Adrian

copy, in mosaic, of the Martyrdom IV, Boniface VIII, Nicholas V,

of S. Erasmus, by Nicolas Pons- Urban VI, and Pius II. Here,

sin. Nearer stLLl to the Tribuna is also, are a considerable number of

a copy, in mosaic, of S. Peter Statues ; and among them one of

sinking, by Lanfranco : and oppo- S. Peter; together with Basst-ri^

site to this Mosaic is the Monument lievi, ancient Mosaics, and interest-

of Clement XIII, by Canova, The ing Inscriptions. The height of

Oh.Vn;l BOME. 199

the subterranean Ohureh n between marble, Pilisters and Busts. Op« 

eleven and twelve English feet; posite to the Door of the great

and the Pavement the same as in Sacristy (on the landing-place of a

the days of Constantine. staircase), stands a Statue of Pius

The Door under the monument VI. The great Sacristy is an octa* of Maria- Clementina Sobiesld, (in gon, about fifW feet m diameter, the upper Church,) leads to a ornamented with antique Colunms Staircase, consisting of one hun* andPilasters, which support a Cur dred and forty-two steps,' by which pola ; and its Chapel contains four mules might mount nearly to the Columns of bardiglio di Carrara. i(^ of the Edifice— so easy is the The SacrisW of the Canons is fur- ascent — and on one of the landing- nished wim Presses of Brazil- places the Custode of the Cupola wood ; and contains a Picture, by may usually be found. It is im- Francesco Penni, of S. Ajine, ^. ; possible to form a just, idea of the another, by Giulio Romano, of the size of this wonderful Basilica, Madonna, our Saviour, and S. withoutseeing the upper part; and John; aiul two Paintings by Ca- equally impossible to . appreciate vallucci. Another Apar&nent con- the architectural merit of the great tains lectures of the ancient Flo- Cupola without examining its con- rentine School, two Paintings, by struction. This stujiendous fabric Ghezzi, a dead Christ, attributed to (which rises, measuring to the ex- Michael Angelo, a Picture, by tremity of the Cross on the Ball, Muziani, and two Paintings by near three hundred English feet Cavallucci'*. above the level of the platfwm on VaHoano. Some writers sup- the top of the Church) is double ; pose this Palace to have been and by means of Staircases, be- erected by Nero, and afterwards tween the exterior and interior bestowed, by Constantine, upon the Walls, it is not difficult to ascend Roman Pontiff ; while others are into the lantern; the Ball on the of opinion that it was built by Con- top of which measures twenty-four stantine on the site of the Gardens feet in circumference. of Nero : it seems to have received

The old SacrUty of S. Peter's augmentations from almost eveiv

(a rotondo) is supposed to have succeeding Sovereign; insomucn

been a Temple of Apollo, which that its present circumference is

stood at the side of Nero's Circus ; computed to be near seventy thou-

the new SacrUty was built, by sand feet. The Saala Regia, or

order of Pius Y X, after the designs great Staircase, at the foot of which

of Carlo Marchionni; andcommu-- stands the Statue of Constantine,

nicates with the Basilica by means was constructed by Bernini ; and

of two Corridors : it is divided into leads to t?ke Sola Regia^ built by

nearly equal parts ; one serving for San^allo, and containing Frescos,

a Sacristy, the other being appro- withLatin inscriptions, explanatoiy

priated to the Canons. In the of the subjects. The first painting

Vestibule is a Statue of S. Andrew, over the Staircase-door represonts

togetiber with Columns and Pilas- Charlemagne signing the Donation

ters of red (Hriental granite. This of the Church, and is by Taddeo

apartment leads to tmree Galleries, Zuccari ; anotlier represents the

chaining fine Columns of African Entry of Gregory XI into Rome,

(o) Th« expttise of seeing the wkole of S. cristan ; and he doee aot exj^ect more than

Peter's, (the subterraaeaa Church iaolaaive.) two pauU. At S. Peter's it u advisable to

amoaats to several pauls ; as t^ere are three appoint the Sacristans a daj beforehuid, ^yid

or foar Sacristans, each of whom expects a liKewise at small, unfrequented Churches. Am. la other iShiurobes there ie bat on« Sa-

&00 ROME. [CkVII.

accompanied by S. Catherine of Sistina, contains magnificent Plate

Siena, and is by Vasari : another, and Jewels,

over the Door leading to the Cap- The Ceiling of the Sola Du-'

pella-Paolina, is divided into three cole is decorated with Arabesques,

parts ; that to the right represents by Lorenzino da Bologna, and

Gregoiy VII withdrawing tne Cen- Raphaellino da Reggio.

sures cast on Henry IV, ia the The Loggia, or open Gallery,

Fortress of Canossa ; and that on above the Sola DucalSy leads to

the left the City of Tunis recon- the Stanze di Eafaello ; and is

quered under Charles V ; the third embellished with Arabesques, in-

represents Victory and Glory, terspersed with Scripture-Histo-

These paintings are by Taddeo and ries, by that great artist and his

Federico Zuccari. scholars. Some of the finest of

The CappellaSistiTia, adjoin- these Frescos are, God dividing ing to the Sala Regia, was built the Light fi-om the Darkness, by by Sixtus IV, according to the Raphael; Joseph explaining his designs of Baccio Pintelh of Flo- Dreams, by Giulo Romano; Jo- rence, and its Ceiling painted by seph sold to the Ishmaelites ; Jo- Michael An^lo in twenty months, seph explaining the Dreams of so entirely without assistance, that Pharaoh ; and the Baptism of the even the coloiurs he used were pre- Saviour, by Raphael. * The greater pared by. himself. The R-ophets part of the small BasH'tilievi in and Sibyls, the figure of the Deity, this Gallery are antique, and sup- and those of Adam and Eve, are posed to have been taken firom the admirable, almost super-human 1 1 ! Colosseum,the Baths of Caracalla, The Last Judgement, likewise by and the VUla of Adrian : and as Michael Angelo, occupies the this is the only Loggia of the Va- whole Wall l^hind the Altar: he tican adorned by the pencil of Ra- was three years in doing it ; and phael, his Bust, executed by Sig. parts of this immense Fresco are Alessandrod'Este, has been placed wonderfully fine. The other WaJls here.

are adorned with Frescos, repre- The Stanze di RafaeUo contain

senting Scripture-histories, by Fie- some of the very finest Frescos

tro Perugino, spd his Florentine existing; but the injuries these

contemporaries^^ The Heads, by Apartments have received from

Porugino, are fine. time, and still more firom the

Opposite to the Cappella-Sistina smoke made in them by German

is the Cappella'Paolxnay erected soldiers, when Rome was taken by

by Paul III, after the designs of assault, A. D. 1528, has rendered

Sangallo. The two Columns of the Paintings in question less

porj^yry, on the sides of the al- striking, at first sight, than many

tar, were found in the Temple of other trescos : indeed Cignani, a

Romulus ; and toward the end of celebrated artist, admired them so

each are two Infants in basso-ri- little, on a cursory view, that

lievo. The Statues in the angles Carlo Maratta, provoked by his

are by Prospero Bresciano. The want of penetration, requested

Paintmgs, which i-epresent the himtocopy one oftheheadsin the

Conversion of S. Paul, and the Fire of the Borgo. Cignani began :

Crucifixion of S. Peter, are by rubbed out; began again; and

Michael Angelo ; and the Fall of again rubbed out ; till, at length,

Simon Maeus, Friezes, and Oma- aner several fi*uitless attempts he

ments of the ceiling are by Fede- threw awav his i)encil, exclaiming,

rico Zuccari. « Raphael is inimitable !"

The Sacristy, near the Cappella- The Stanze di Ba/aellp fire four

Ch,Tir.] ROME, 201

in number; namely, the Sola di action, the Baptistery, built by Costantino ; the Sala dEliodoro ; Constantine, after he had em- the Sala delta Scuola di Atene; braced Christianity, and sup- and the Sola di tincendio. The posed to be that of S. Giovanni Apartment leading to them con- m Laterano. The fomth Picture, tams Frescos by Raphael, repre- which was coloured by; Rirfaello senting the Apostles ; andtheCha- del Colle, is the Donation of the pel of Nicholas V, painted by Patrimony of the Church, by Con- Angelo di Fiesole, the pupil of stantine. The composition is ad- Masaccio. mired ; but the figures of Con- The Hall of Constantine was stantine and the Pope are said designed by Raphael, and coloured, to want majesty. This Picture after his decease, by his scholars ; abounds with episodes ; namely, the figures of Justice and Be- Soldiers driving the Spectators nignity excepted, which he had back between the Columns; a just finished in oil, (the manner in Beggar imploring Charity, and which he had made preparations a Father and Son answering him ; for painting the whole of this side a Woman with her back only vi- of the HcQl,) when death put a sible, who leans upon two other period to his labours. The first Women, in order to see the Cere- Picture, on the right, represents mony; and a Child mounted on Constantine addressing his TVoops a Dog. The eight Pontiffs, on the before the Battle with Maxentius, sides of these Pictures, were all and was coloiu-ed by Giulio Ro- coloured by Giulio Romano, ex- mano. Raphael has taken the cept the Head of S. Urban, which moment when the Cross appears was done by Raphael. In the in the air, supported by Angels, second room is a Picture which who are supposed to be saying to represents Heliodorus, Prefect of Constantine, ** Conquer by this." Seleucus Philopater, King of Sy- The Dwarf of Julius II, putting on ria, who came to pillage the Tem- a helmet, forms an absurd episode pie at Jerusalem, thrown down and in the picture. The next Paint- vanquished by two Angels and a ing is the Battle of Constantine, Warrior on Horseback; whom fought against Maxentius, near God sent to the aid of his High the Ponte Molle, A. D. 312: it Priest Onias ; a circumstance re- was coloured by Giulio Romano, corded in the second Book of who, respectfully leaving untouched Maccabees. This Picture is ex- the two Virtues already painted in tremely admired ; especially the. oil by his great master, executed Angels, who are pursuing Heli- the rest of the work in fiasco : odorus with such rapidity that and, according to general opinion, they seem to fly. The Warrior on this is one of the very finest pic- Horseback is strikingly fine : the tures in the first class of great Temple appears swept of the works. Thfe most striking Groups people in a moment ; while, in the are, an Old Soldier raising his back-ground, Onias is discovered, dying Son ; two Soldiers fighting, at the Altar, invoking Heaven, in the same part of the Picture ; The episode of Julius ll, coming and in the opposite part, Maxen- into the Temple on mens' shoul- tius in the Tiber, vainly struggling ders, appears to have been a to extricate himself. The third foolish whim of his, with which Picture is the Baptism of Constan- Raphael was unfortunately obliged tine, by Pope S&vester ; and was to comply, by way of represent- coloured by Francesco Penni. Ra- ing that Julius, like Onias, deli- phael has chosen, for the scene of vered the Church from its op-

20a ROME. [Ch.VIL

pressors. The Pope'sr Chair«< copied from Trajan's CoIubui. The

bearer, on the left, is a Portrait of fourth Picture in this room was

Giulio Romano, The Principal coloured by Raphael, and repre-

Figures in this Picture were co- sents S. Peter dehvered from Pyir

loured by Raphael ; the Group, in son by an Angel : it contains tk

which several Females are inteo-^ double action, — ^first, S, Peter, in

duoed, by Pietro da Cremona ; and Prison, waUed by the Angel ; and,

the remaining part, by Giuho secondly, S. Peter, going out of

Romano. In the same room is Prison, conducted by the Angel« 

another Picture, called the Miracle The Apostle's figure is not ^d-

of Bolsena: it was coloured by mired; but that of the Angel is

Raphael ; and represents a Priest charming } and the manner in

who doubted the real presence of which the lights are managed i^

our Saviour in the Eucharist ; till inimitable. The Ceiling of this

being on the point of consecrating apartment was painted, in chiaro-

the Wafer, he saw blood drop from scuro, by Raphael, The third

it. This picture is much admired ; room contains a Picture, coloured

and was extremely difficult to com^ by Raphael, and called the School

pose ; from being painted round a of Athens ; though it representfi

window, which cuts it nearly in Philosophy in general; and is,

half. Julius II is again brought with regard to expression and

forward in an episode ; and £up^ scholastic knowledge, a wonderful

posed to be hearing mass ; but as work ; for every Philosopher, by

the Head of the Church is not to his posture and gestures, charao^

question the real presence in the terizes his doctrines and opinions,

Eucharist, he testifies no surprise The scene is laid in a magnificent

at the Miracle ; though the people, building, imitated from the original

in general, express great astonish* designs which Bramante and Mi-

ment ; in which the Swiss Guards chael Angelo made for the Basi^

coldly participate. The colouring lica of S. Pietro in Vaticano. Be-

of the Picture and the heads of ginning with the Ionian School,

the Cardinals, the Pope, and th^ on the right, before the Statue pf

Priests saying mass, are much ad- Minerva, the Aged Person whose

mired. The third Painting in this head is covered with linen, after

Chamber, (celebrated for its com- the Egryptian manner, is Thales ;

position and ^oups of figures,) whom Raphael has represented as

represents Attila, King of the walking with a Stick, because,

Huns, advancing against Rome, with that, he measured the Pyra-

and discovering, in the air, S. mids. Next to Thales is Arche-

Peter and S. Paul descending to laus of Messenia, pictured as being

arrest his progress. Raphael has in motion ; because he, like Thales,

chosen the moment when the was a great Traveller. Behind

Apostles are not discovered by the these Philosophers is Anaxagoras^

Army in general, but by Attila almost hidden ; in reference to the

alone. Pope S. Leo appears on a persecutions he underwent Thji

mule, followed by Cardinals ; but next figure, standing alone, at a

Attila attends only to the Apos- little distance from this group, to

ties. The figure which repre- shew that he is of another School,

sents S. Leo is a Portrait of represents Pythagoras ; who seenu9

J^eo X ; and the Mace-bearer, on resolved to continue fixed to on^

the white horse before the Pope, spot, to shew the unchangeable-

is a Portrait of Rarfiael's master, ness of his ideas. The conceal-

Pietro Perugino. The two Sar- ment of his hands in his mantlQ

n^atian Horsemen, near Attila, are 'refers to the secrecy he eiyomed|

y

Ch.VIL] ROME. tos

imd perhaps his betn^ bare-footed Plato and Aristotle are placed to- may allude to liis having worn the gether in the centre of the Picture: costume of an Egyptian priest : Plato holds the 'Hmseus : his sub* his head and body being turned lime style is expressed by his atti- different ways shews his metaphori. tude,' denoting, that -his thoughts cal method of teaching important soar above this earth ; and the truths ; and the crown, formed by Cord attached to his neck marks his hair, refers to his initiation in aU his initiation at the Eleusinian mysteries. The Figure leaning on Mysteries. The figure is copied a Column is Parmenides ; close to from his portrait done by Nean- whom sits his adopted Son, Zeno» thes; and displays the uncom- who is represented as a Youth ; mon size of his shoulders ; from the acuteness of his countenance which circumstance he acquired alludes to his subtilty. Parme* the name of Plato. The Figure nides appears to be watching Zeno; in shade, nearest to Plato, is who (from the position in which Arcothaea, a female disciple. The he sits) is writing somethingshort; next Figure, in the same line, referring to a Poem, by Parme- indicates roughness of character, nides, which compared, in two and represents Xenocrates ; whom hundred lines, all the various Plato advised to sacrifice to the Systems of Philosophy. Two mas* Graces : the next is Glaucon ; and ters only of the Eleahc School are the next Speusippus ; who erected introduced ; because its followers statues to the Graces, and is re- were few in number. The meta- presented as a graceful person physics of Parmenides and Zeno himself. The next Figure is Las- gave rise to the Sceptical t^hiloso- thenia, a female disciple, to whom phy of Pyrrho, expressed by the Speusippus was attached ; shewn next Figure, who appears doubtful by his putting his arm round her which way to fgo; and whose neck. Behind Lasthenia and Socra- countenance and position denote tes is Zeno of Citium, the founder the conflicts which spring from of the sect called Stoics : he seems Scepticism : he is stopping, by his wrapt in severe self-contemplation ; y^emence, another person from and this figure exhibits the por- ascending the steps on which he trait of Flaminius of Ravenna, stands. At the opposite side of Raphael's Landlord, of Stoic pro- the Picture, talkmg with his bity. Behind is Antisthenes, in fingers to a Figure in Armour, shade, because his School is ex- supposed to represent Alcibiades, pressed by that of Zeno. On the is Socrates, known by his face, side of Aristotle, the tallest and (which resembles that given to most conspicuous Figure is Theo- Silenus :) he, like Thales, appears phrastus ; to whose care we are to be walking; because geometry indebted for the Works of the Phi- was never taught in a fixed place, losopher of Stagira. Theophrastus Near him is a person partly hiding died in the hundred and seventh himself, supposed to represent year of his age, complaining that Critias ; as the air and features nature granted longevity to crows express Cruelty, and Revenge, well and stags, but denied it to man. suited to his character. Another This is said to be the Portrait of Figure in this Group isPhsedon, Cardinal Bembo. The next Fi- known by his fine countenance ; gure of this group is Strato of and a little behind stands Xeno- Lampsacus, successor to Theo- phon; who appears to be calling phrastus; the next Demetrius Pha- to his Son, Gryllus, a Youthful lereus, who had three hundred and Figure with his hand on his head, sixty bronze statues raised to lus

204 ROME. [Ch. Vir.

honour ; the next Callisthenes ; tal costume represents one of the the next Neophron ; the next (with Magi, from which sect the Grecian a beard) Glycon, whose counte- Schools derived part of their doc- nance indicates sweetness of dis- trines. Behind Empedocles is Epi- position, and whose back is turned charmus, whose doctrines coincided on Heraclides, the last Figure of with those of Empedocles ; and this Group. The two Figures be- who has a cunning look, as de- hind the disciples of Aristotle are scribed by Cicero. The Figure in Euclid of Megara, and Eubulides a toga, is Lucretius, plac^ near ofMiletus,his pupil: the last hated Empedocles, as having been his Aristotle, and is looking angrily at follower ; but looking another way, him. Near Euclid and Eubulides because he differed from his mas- is Stilpo, their follower ; whom ter. This Figure is the Portrait of Pyrrho prevents from ascending Francesco, Duke of Urbino, ne- the steps tojoin them. The lower phew to Julius II. The person part of the Picture on the side with crowned with vine-leaves, and rest- the statue of Apollo, represents ing a book on a pedestal, is Epi- the Philosophy of Leucippus, the curus, looking gay, according to disciple of Zeno, though tne author the account given of him ; and the of a very opposite system. He Figure leaning on his shoulder is first taught the doctrine of Atoms ; Metrodorus ; next to whom is He- and is represented standing with a raclitus, wearing a Black Veil, like book on his thigh : while presump- that of the Ephesian Diana, in tion, and resentment of opposition whose temple he exposed his works, are depicted on his countenance. Seated on the second step, near Democritus, his most celebrated the centre of the Picture, is Dio- disciple, is sitting near him, booted, genes, reading, with a cup by his according to the costume of his side ; and below him is a Portrait countrymen the Abderites, and of the ereat architect, Bramante, writing upon a stone table, shaped (under the character of Archime- like the sarcophagi among which des,) who is tracing an hexagonal he used to meditate: he lost his for- figure. The Young Man behind tune, therefore his dress indicates Bramante, in an attitude of admi- poverty ; and he is represented ration, is supposed to be the Por- m deep meditation, to shew his trait of Federigo Gonzaga, Duke uncommon studiousness. Oppo- of Mantua ; the other handsome site to Leucippus sits Empedocles, and enthusiastic looking Person resting on a Cubey though not who points to the hexagon, is sup- with contempt^ according to the posed to be Archytas of Taren- principles of Leucippus ; because turn ' : the Boy, on his knees, is Empedocles adhered, on some Phenix of Alexandria ; and behind points, to the Pythagorean system, him, with a hand on his back, is The Youth holoing, before Empe- Ctesibius. The Person wearing a docles, Pythagoras's Table of the Crown and holding a Globe is Al- Generation of Numbers and the phonso. King of Arragon, Sicily, Harmonies, is Meton <i : and the and Naples ', under the character Youth in a helmet, witfi his profile of Zoroaster : the Person with a only visible, is Melinus, the Friend black turban on his head, and like- of Meton. The Figure in an orien- wise holding a Globe, may proba-»

(q) According to some opinions this Profile («) Alphonso, one of the greatest and most

represents Aspa^ia, from whom Socrates learnt amiable monarchs of the iifteenth ceaturjr,

eloquence. was passionately devoted to Learping, apd a

if) The sandals indicate this to be a female muniiicent patron of Genius, disaple, all of whom have sandals.

Ch.VII.] SOME, $04

bly represent Confucius : and the poets to sacrifice annually to Li*

two persons with whom Alphonso nus, the father of Lyric verse,

seems conversing are portraits of within his Grotto on HeUcon ; and

Raphael and Pietro Perug[ino. The at the same time to support their

statues and hassi-rilievi with which pretensions to superior merit by a

Raphael has ornamented his scene, recital of their works. We will,

are emblematical of the different therefore, suppose the scene in

Schools of Philosophy; and the question to be Helicon, and the

Picture, in point of composition, poets to be assembled near the

is considered to be his chef-doeuvrey Grotto of Linus. According witti

the Sibyls of S. Maria della Pace this idea, we find Sappho at the

excepted. Opposite to this inimi> entrance of the Grotto, opening

tableworkis another Fresco, called the Festival. She wrote a poem

Theology: it was coloured by Ra« entitled '* Oetolinus, or the Mis*

phael, and the lower part of the pic- fortunes of Linus ;" which she ap-

ture, especially the Group where S. pears to be unrolling ^ Of the

Augustine is dictating to a Youth, is four Figures near her, the most

extremely admired : out the upper prominent is Pindar, known by his

part, namely, the blessed Trinity, magnificent dress, which is only

the Madonna, and S. John Bap- surpassed by that of Homer. Pin-

tist, are said to be too much in the dar seems conversing with Corinna:

Gothic style. The Heads of Saints his head is a Uttle shaded, in refer-

Gregorio, Ambrogio, Augustine, ence to their contentions at Thebes

Domenico, Bonaventura, and Je- for the prize of poetry ; in which,

rome, are tliought particularly fine, she was five times victorious: he

Raphael has represented the four is likewise placed somewhat lower

first as Fathers of the Church, than his antagonist, though he

seated at each side of an Altar, steps with an apparent anu)ition

(upon which the Host is exposed,) to surpass her. Petrarca wears

and haranguing on the Holy Sa- the Monastic Hood, and therefore

crament. The place of assembly cannot be mistaken: and, perhaps,

represents the Foundations of a in compliment to his countryman.

Christian Temple, with part of the Raphael has given Corinna the

Superstructure begun. Another countenance of Laura". Corinna

Picture (coloured by Raphael) in points with two of her fingers to

this room is called Jurisprudence; Archilochus, as the inventor of

expressed by the three handmaids new rh3[thms in music, and new

of Justice, namely. Wisdom, Tem- metres in poetry ; and to Homer

perance, and Fortitude. In the as the prince of heroic verse. Ho-

lower part, on tlie left, is Justinian mer, by his superior elevation*

giving the Digests to Trebonian; shews that he has no rival: he

and, on the right, Gregoiy IX, stands on a level with Apollo and

ynder the figure of Julius II, pre- the Muses ; and seems to be pour-

i^enting his Decretals to an advo- ing forth a strain of harmony which

cate. The fourth Picture in this fires his auditors with his own

room was likewise coloured by rapture. Raphael has therefore

Raphael, and represents Poetry: made the Leaves of his Laurel

but whether the scene be laid Crown take the shape of luminous

on Parnassus, or Helicon, seems rays, like the Garland of Apollo,

doubtful. It was, however, cus- Near Homer is a Youth copying

tomary for celebrated Grecian the effusions of the great Improve

(t") Linus possessed g^reat talents for poetry (u) There appears to have been a resein.-»

l^a mnsie ; but, on presuming^ to compare blance between these celebrated ladies ; as

himself to ApoUo, we are told he wa« slain by each was tall, well made, and bad light hwr

tliat God. aAd a £air oomplexion.

fiO$ ROME. tCh.VII.

visatore, and probably meant fot fondty on Polyhymnia is the youth- Scindapsus'. Virgil, clothed with ful Muse, Terpsichore ; who seems a green mantle, (in allusion to the ^ to acknowledge that she is indebted Georgics,) is placed not far distant to Polyhymnia for the regulated from Homer ; and points to the measure of her steps. The Muse Epic Muse, whose patronage he j)resenting herself on the other seems to demand. Dante is repre- side of the laurel is Erato, con- sented looking at Virgil, and stand- cealing a Scroll, perhaps Ovid's ing below him, at no great distance. Art of Love, in her bosom. Next Behind Virgil appears Ariosto, to Erato is Thalia, looking like d, with a wild and fanciful counte- clever mimic without guue; and nance, expressive of disinclination exhibiting in her right'hand a Maslc to converse with his brother poets, taken from domestic life. Cal* He had no model ; and is said to liope is placed by her side, dressed have been pensive and fond of so- with regal splendour, and having a htude. The Viohn, invented about round Shield attached to the gir- the time of Raphael, to the delight die she wears, perhaps because of every lover of music, he has war is the proper subject for Epic placed in the hands of Apollo ^ ; poetry. Urania is represented who is listening to, and accompa*. turning to the north, and looking nying the hymn of Homer. Eu- in a contrary direction to the god terpe stands near Apollo, attend- of day, because her studies are ing to his accompaniment. Clio, nocturnal : her hands are conceal- seated on the right of Apollo, and ed from view, like her labours ; and contemplating her trumpet, an- her countenance is shaded, because nounces the power she possesses the most important results of as- of conferring immortality : her tronomical calculations depend on beauty has a grave and masculine observations made during the character; she is clothed in white, night*. The person looking at a to express truth and candour ; and Gigantic Figure below him, and she is seated, because study re- placing his finger on his lips, is quires tranquillity. Near Clio, Horace : the double Cord round and attending to her only, stands his neck refers to his initiation in Melpomene ; who is supposed to the Eleusinian Mysteries ; and he borrow subjects from the Historic seems to be in the act of imposing Muse; though the position of silence on the aforesaid Gigantic her hands, the one holding a scenic Figure, which represents Hesiod, mask, and the other pointing to who is seated, as the pendant to herself, shews that she must, by Sappho, guarding the Mouth of a new modification, animate the the Cave. His immense size re- characters in her dramas, and give fers to his appellation of the Son them her own elevated language, of Atlas ; and he is represented as She wears a purple robe, because extremelv old, though retaining the her principal agents are persons of vigour of youth, to personify Di- high rank. In this Group is Poly- dactic Poetry. He was thought to hymnia, who appears about the speak with too much freedom of same age with Euterpe, but older religious mysteries, and is therefore than her other Sisters ; and leaning reproved by Horace ^ Imme-

(v) Many persons earned their livelihood menichino and Quid© afterwards did the sani*.

bV writing, on detached leaves, the poems of («) It is said the divisions of tlM sphere tnar

Homer at the time when he sung them : and be traced in the arrangement of her hair.

Scindapstis, we are told, constantly attended (jj) Horace, speaking of persons who take

the blind Bard as his secretary. an improper Hceuce on sncn subjects, says,

(to) Bellini, before Raphael, had acknow- " With these persons I should neither hav« 

ledged the superior valve of tiiis instrument, courage to sail in the same resstl, nor to sleep

by placing it ia the handg of aatgete ; and I>(k under the same iwf."

Ch^VIL] aOMB. 207

diately before the lauirel-tree oh Coronation of Charlemagne, by

this side, stands Vittoria Colonna, Leo III.

a relation to Julius II, and the most The Siurbases of these rooms are successful of all the imitators of finely painted in chiato^ecuro, by Petrarca. Hinaldo Corso, who Polidoro da Caravaggio, and re- commented on her works, stands touched by Carlo Maratta. close to Vittoria; and Bannazaro The Loggia, or open Gallery, is represented as conversing very above the Stanze di RafPaello, leans earnestly with her. Another figure to an Apartment containing some in the same Group is Pompeio ofthe most celebrated Easel-Paint'- Colonna ; and the last represents ings extant. Balthazar Castiglionei Tne Ceil- The Antechamber to this Apart- ing of this apartment was painted ment containii a Portrait, pamted by Raphael. by Sir Thomas Lawrence, of In the fiyutih room is one of George IV, King of Great Britain, Raphaers most celebrated Compo^ placed in its present situation 1^ sitions, representing the fii^e in Leo XII.

Boigo S. Spirito, near the Vati- First room, A Fresco found itt

can ; which happened during the the ancient Vatican Library ; and

Pontificate of Leo IV. The tu- supposed to have been done by

mult and high wind raised by the Gnirlahdajo — ^the TRburtine Sibyt

fire are wonderfully expressed ; by Garofolo — ^the Theological Vn--

and the Young Man rescuing his tues, by Raphael — Religious My^-

Father, llie Person sliding down a teries, by ditto— the Madonna, the

wall, and the Woman carrying Saviour, and S. Catherine, by Ga*

water on her head, are particularly rofolo— Saints, by Perugino — a

admired. In the fore*ground is Doge of Venice, "by Titian — and

another fine Figure of a Female, two Pictures, by Beato da Fiesole,

apparently quite frantic, and rais- relative to the Life of S. Niccolo di

ing her hands toward Leo IV^ Ban.

who appears in a Portico, below Second room. Cows, bjr Paul which is a fine Group of persons Potter! — the Transfiguration, by invoking his aid. This Picture, Raphael ! ! ! — the Madonna and except the Group of the Young Saints, by Titian ! I — and the Corn- Man rescuing his Father and fbi- munion of S. Girolamo, by Dome- lowed by his Wife, was coloured nichino ! ! !

byRapnael; that Group is sup- Third room. A Pieth, by Ca- posed to have been coloured by ravaggio!!— S'.Helena, by Paolo Giulio Romano. Over the window, Veronese — the Resurrection of in the same room, is a Picture Christ, by Perugino — ^the Madonna which represents Leo III swearing, with four Saints, by ditto! — and the before Uharlemagne, upon tn^ Assumption of the Madonna, de- Gospels, that he was not guilty of signed by Raphael, and coloured the crimes laid to his charge by by Giulio Romano, and Francesco Itie party who wished to depose reraii!

him^ The composition of this Fourth room. The Madonna and

wctfk is admired, as are several two Saints, by Gnido ! — the Na-

of the Heads. Another Picture, tivity of the Madonna, by Albano

finely executed, represents the — S. Gregorio, by Andrea Sacchi

Victory gained by Leo IV over the — S. Romuald6*s Vision, by ditto ! I

Saracens at Ostia ; and the fourth — ^and the Crucifixion of ». Peter,

Picture in this apartment is the by Guido ! I

(9) Acootding; tOBome opisioft»,the Pope, in tbig Kcture, is a PoHralt of Leo X ; and Qa

JSmpevor a Portrait of Fifaiicis I, of France.

^oa

KOME.

[Ch. YII.

Fifth room. The Martyrdom of Vaga; it represents the Planets,

S. Erasmus, by Nicolas Poussin — and the Signs of the Zodiac, the Annunciation, by Baroccio — Galleria Lapidaria, In this

the Incredulity of S. Thomas, by Gallery is a very large and valuable

Guercino! — a, Pieta, by Andrea collection of ancient Inscriptions,

Mantegna — S*. Michelina, by Ba- several of which were found in the

roccio — and the Martyrdom of two Catacombs : here, likewise, are Ci-

Saints, by Valentin. nerary Urns, and other Sepulchral

Sixth room. The Coronation Monuments; together with an

of the Madonna, by Raphael! — JEdicula, found at Todi; and an

the Madonna di Foligno, by the immense Vase, probably a Recepta-

same great master * ! 1 1 — and the cle for the ashes of victims offered

Magdalene, by Guercino ! to the gods : it is ornamented with

These rooms are open to the lions devouring weaker animals, Public every Monday and Thurs- one of the ancient emblems of day. Festivals excepted, at the fifth death. Here also is a Tomb sup- hour before sunset ; and remain posed to have held the remains of open four hours. Lucius Atimetus, a Cutler ; be-

Museo ChiaramontL Aparta- cause the bassi-rilievi on its sides

mento-Borgia. These rooms con- represent aCuller'sShop and Forge,

tain a Statue of -isculapius — four It was found near the Church of S*.

Passi-rilievi from the Forum of Agnese, on the Via-Nomentana. Trajan ; that, which represents The second division of the Gal-

Wrestlers, being particularly fine — /^ry contains on the right a Re-

fi Basso-rilievo of a Nymph, Loves, cumbent Female Figure, (supposed

^c, — another Basso-rilievo repre- to represent Autumn,) restmg on

senting Acanthus-leaves — a ^e- the Lid of a Sarcophagus, and sur-

ceptacle for the ashes of victims rounded by little Bacchanalians :

offered to the gods, from the it was found at Ostia. The Tomb

Giustiniani collection — an ancient it covers (found near the Via-Fla-

Car, found on the spot called Roma minia, at Acquatraversa,) is oma-

Vecchia, and supposed to have mented with three Half-figures in

consisted of wood sheathed with alto-riiievo, which appear to repre-

bronze ; the wheels and pole are sent a Father and Mother and tneir

modem : — ^twelve Etruscan Sarco- Son ; the last wears the bulla.

phagi — terra-cotta Lamps; and Immediately opposite is another

JVagments of various descriptions ; Recumbent Figure, (supposed to

together with a well-preserved an- represent Winter,) resting on the

cient Fresco, found on the Esqui- Lid of a Sarcophagus^ and sur-

line Hill, near the Gardens of Me- rounded by Genu, who are playing

csenas, and commonly called The with Tortoises : it was found at

Aldobrandini Marriage : it is sup- Ostia, and is placed on a very an-

posed to represent the Union of cient Tomb of travertino,. oma-

Tlietis with Peleus I mented with fibres of a Husband

One of these rooms is oma- and Wife and their Chidren. Other

mented with a beautiful Ceiling, by interesting pieces of Sculpture in

Qiovanni da Udine, and Pierino del this immense Gallery are— If o. 14 ^

(a) This admirable Picture was painted by order of OiSmondo Cooti, (first Secretary to Jalius no to commemorate the preservation of the Town of Folirno from a thunderbolt, at the intercession of Saints Girolamo and Fran- cesco. The Fiffore opposite to S. John Bap- tist, and clothed in TyriaoDnrple, represente Oismondo Conti; and the TabUt, held by tho

Cherub, was intended to have contained an in- scription relative to the picture.

(6) A very few of the Numerical Figaret, on the statues and other sculpture in the Va«  tican Museum, have been accidentally obliter- ated, or purposely changed; but, generally speaking, they were found, in 18S6, to oonrc* spond with this Work.

Ch. Vnj ROME. 809

Statue of Euterpe — 16, a Muse— » and suj^s^ to have been oriffin^ 19, Paris — 26, Head of Septimius ally one of the ornaments of iW* Severus — 30, Head of Antoninus jan*s Forum! — 357, Statue of Pal«* Pius — 33, Bust of Marcus Aure- las — 359, Fragment, shewing spe- lius when youn^ — 34, Herma, cimens of ancient Armour, and called Plato-^7, Herma of Bac- supposed to be Etruscan — 360, a chus-Zagraeus, and Bacchus-Dio- Basso^rilievo, curious because it nysius, remarkable only tor being represents a sacred Dance — 36 1* rare — 1 20, Statue of a Vestal — 1 2 1 , Divinities, of the Etruscan School, Statue of Clio seated — 122, Statue and supposedto be Jupiter and Juno of Diana — 142, Fragment of a — 400, Statue of Marcellus seated. Statue of Pallas, supposed to be from the Giustiniani collection IS Etruscan — 176, a Fragment! — —408, Fragment of a Baff<o-n^i>vo, 1 79, Statue of Marcus Aurelius — curious, TOcause it represents a 181, Group of Diana Triformis, on Four-wheeled Car--4 1 7, Bust sup- it beautiful Pedestal ! — 1 97, Colos-* posed to be the likeness of Auffus* sal Bust of Pallas, found near the tus when young ; it was found at ancient Laurentum! — 240, Statue Ostia!! — 421, Bust of Demos- of Britannicus — 24 1 , Statue of Ly « thenes— 44 1 , Head of Alcibiades t sias seated — 242, Statue of Apollo — 442, Bust of Clodius Albinus— ^ — ^244, Colossal Head of Oceanus ! 453, Statue, which seems to have -^-254, Bust of Niobe — 255, a been originally a Meleager ; but is Small Statue, in bigio, of Jupiter- restored as a Roman Emperor Serapis seated — 256, Bust, called holding the Globe, and a fl^e of Sappho — 284, a Small Statue of Victory-~454, Statue of ^scula- Apollo - 234, a Semi-colossal Sta- pius — 458, a Cow — 460, an Altar, tue of Hercules, placed on one of found at Ostia — 461, a Stork — the Sacred receptacles for the ashes 462, an Hippopotamus — 463, a of victims, which is ornamented young Wild-boar in nero antico I with a Basso-rilievo of a Lion de- — 464, Mithras with the Bull, in vouring a Wild-boar, one of the bigio — 465, a Swan!! — 466, a ancient emblems of death — 295, Phoenix — 467, a Dog — 493, a Torso of Bacchus — 298, Statue of ^emi-colossal Statue of Mercury-^ Bacchus — 300, a JBc»«o-n7ievo, al- 494, a Semi-colossal Statue, in kisive to the combats of the Ama- Pentelic marble, of Tiberius seated, zons — 301, ditto — 309, a Small excellently wdl preserved, and Tigress — 311, a Leopard devouring found at Pipemo, the ancient Pri- the Head of a Goat, found in vernum *=!!!-— 496, Statue of Mi- Adrian's Villa — 312, a Gladiator nerva-— 498, Statue, restored as £ghting with a Lion — ^3 1 3, a Lynx—. Atropos ; it was found in Adrian's 314, a Genius fighting with a Lion Villa— 504, Head of Niobe— 505, •r-339. Small Statue of a Faun — Colossal Head of Antoninus Pius 34 1 , Small Statue of Diana- Luna I encircled with a civic crown— 5 1 0, — 343, Statue-of Paris— 344, Sta- a Head, called Meleager— 512, tue of a Child holding Apples — Bust of Adrian — 513, Bust of 353, Statue of a Nymph — 355, Venus, in Parian marble, found in Statue of a Muse — 356, a half-^ Dioclesian's Baths ! ! — 525, Head, length Colossal Figure of a Dacian suppossed to be a likeness of Cicero Prisoner,, from the Villa-Negroni ; —533, Figure with an Urn, a

(c) The fourteen Cities of Asia Minor, eonsequence. On the sane oceasion there

tlirovii down either by th^ earthquake which were two Medals stamped of Tiberius ; in both

tpok place at our Saviour's Crucitixion, or, of which he is represented sitting, with a pa-

(aceordittff to some records.) in the year 17* tera in one hand and a spear in the ot"*'* Pre*

aad which Cities the Emperor assisted the in- cisely in the posture of this btatue tound %.%

)i«bitantt to xebuild, erected a statue to him iir Pipemo.

StO ROHS. (pii.yii

IbiicKal Ohafdet, sad a Lamb-*' eaUed Roma Veeohm* mud tappos^

634» Colossal Bust of Juno, found to represent Cicero ! — ^7€0, a Co« 

at Ostiar^543, a Fra^gmei^, called lossal Head of Antoniiius Pius,

Nero — 544, Statue of SUenus with found at Ostia f — 708, a Semi*

a Tiger ! — 645, a Fragment, called colossal Recumbent Statue of Her*

Tiberius — 547, a Colossal Bust of cules, found in Adrian's Villa l-^

Isis, in Pentelic marble, found in the Nearly opposite to this Statue ia

Qanlen of the Pontifical Palace on the Head of a River-god, in terra^

the Quinnal Hill — ^554, a Colossal cotta.

Head of Antomnus Pius — 555, a Gallery of the Nile. Justbejfond

Head supposed to represent Pom- the entrance to the eecond dkiksion

pey I — ^556, a H«ul called Lucius of the Galleria Lapidaria. This

Verus when a yi>uth — ^558, Head spacious and splendid Apartment^

of Pallas — ^561, Bust supposed to erected by command of Pius YII»

represent the Father of Trajan! ! and opened to the Pubhc in 1822*

-^562, Bust, supposed to repre- exhibits a considerable number of

sent Augustus 1 1 — 563, Bust called ancient columns of precious mar« 

Aristotle — 580, Colossal Bust of ble, is beautifully paved with the

IVajan, found in the Porto-Traja- same material, and well restored

nelk), at Ostia — 588, Statue of ancient Mosaics ; and likewise em«'

Venus — 589, Statue of Mercury beUished with a fine modem Frieze

in Pentelic marble, found near the of stucco, copied from antique

Monte diPietd — 591, Statue of the ba^si-rflievi too muchii^ured for

Emperor Claudius — 604, Bust of use. Some of the most striking*

Bacchus— 605, Bust of Silvanus — pieces of Sculpture in this new

606, Bust of Neptune, in Pentelic Gallery are — No. 2, a Herma of

marble, found at Ostia — 608,Bustof Pentelic marble, bearing a Greek

the younger Agrippina — 6 1 8, Head Sepulchral Inscription, and appa-i

supposed to represent Marcus Bru« rentlv made with a Half-figure

tus — 619, Head of Aggrippina the of Mercury, and part of another

elder — 621, Statue of Pan seated — Herma — 5, a Statue of Mercury—*

636, Statue of Ceres, placed on an 6, a Bust, found at Ostia — ^8, a

Altar which merits observation, Semi-colossal Statue of Domitian,

and exhibits on one side Apollo fix>m the Giustiniani collection ^ !-*« 

and Diana, on another Mars and 9, a Bust in the style of the E^^yp-

Mo-cuiy, on the third Hope and a tian School — 10, a Colossal Bust

Fountain, and on the fourth H^- of a Dacian Slave, found in the

cules and Silvanus — 638, Fragment Forum of Trajan I^-l 1 , Statue of

supposed to have represented an a Discobolus! — 1 2, Bust of Apollo

Hermaphrodite — 639, Statue called — 13, a Bust in Carrara marble^

Alexander— 642, 643, and 644, fine called the Emperor Philip tha

Fragments — 647, Statue of A^s— elder I — 14, Statue of Lucius

654, a mutilated Statue of Isis — Verus !• — 16, Colossal Bust of

655, a Group of Loves, &c. — 674, Commodus, found at Ostia I — 17, Ganymede borne off by the Ea^le Statue of a Faun, in Greek mar- —-678, BasM-rilievo representing ble, supposed to be an ancienfr Ancient Gallies— 681, Statue or copy of a celebrated Faun by Hygeia— 684, Statue of JEscula# Praxiteles; it was taken trom the

§ius — 685, Statue of Venus->686, Ruspoli collection ! — 19, Bust of a

tatue called the Vestal, Tuccia — Dacian Slave, supposed to have

698, Bust found among the ruins been done in the time of Trajai^-'

(O Tha Mosaic Pavement, ia front of thia (e) The black and white Mosaic Pavement,

Btetae, wa» found among the niins of an an- in front of tikis statue, repretenU UliMss

cient villa, about two mues from the Porta S. «gc»piag (ton So/Utt and tJM Sireu.

^bastiaao, Mid called Tor Marancio. *

Ch. VILl. ROME. tit

20, a Setni-eolosiial Statue of the sufficient aiifhority I'— 48, a 8emi«  Emperor Claudius, in Carrara colossal Statue of Fortune, found marble, from the Ruspofi eollec- at Ostia! !— 50, Bust of Mansdltie tion'— 22, a Bust called Titus— 23, ->52, Bast of PaUasI---53, Bvit Statue ik Minerva Medica, in of Adrian !~5S, an incognito Bust Greek marble, from the Giustiniani — 56, ditto--57, a Srau-oolossil odketion ! ! ! This master-fMeoe Statue of Antonia, Mother of the of Grecian sculpture was found Emperor CUuidius, found at Tut* near the picturesque Ruin on the ouhim--60, a Semi-colotBalStatiti, Esqnilinie Hill; called (in conse« called Clemency, in Grecian mur* quence) the Temple of Minerva* ble — 62, Bust called Ptolemy, sM Medica— 26, Statue of Diana^-^SO, of Juba, King of Maant«nta--«4«  Statue of a Wrestler, found at Bust of Caracalla when jrouni^ Tivoli, in tiie Villa of Quintilius 6C, Bust of Mareus Aurehtis whcft Varus — 32, Statue of a Wrestler, yoimg — 67, Herma of Hercnlet, found in the same place — 34, Sta* found at Ostia — 71, an incognit* lue of a Wrestler, found in a Villa Bust, frt>m the Ruspoii colkietkMi which belonged to Lucnllus — 36, — 72, Statue of Demosthenes ! At Statue of a Wrestler, found in the Base of this Statue \m a Bern the Villa of Quintilius Varus, at niiun, or Capsa, in which maan^- Tivoli — 38, Statue of a Wrestler scripta were Kept by the Aneienta in repose, from the RuspoU od- -^74, an inoc^ito Bust — 75, a lection ^41, Statue, supposed to Statue called Abundance, but sop^ represent Ceres, or one of the posed to have originally represent* Seasons. — In this part of the ed Fortune — ^78, Statue of a Fa* Gallery are a Bust of Pius VII, by male, probably a Juno— 81, Stalve Canovas-4wo Columns of black of Euripides! — 83, Bust of Mar Egyptian granite, tak^ from the crinus, very rare — 84, Statue of Portico of the Church of S\ Sa- Diana, supposed to be contemplat>- Inna — four magniiicent Cc^umns ing Endymion--86, Bust of Tnyaa, ofcipolino, and tour of porphyry, excellent both with respect to r^ the last taken from the Church of semblance and execution ! ! — 8f , S. Bartolommeo ; and each of the one of the Statues called Caae^ four surmounted l>y a Colossal phone; it once ornamented the Mask, representing Medusa, and Villaoi Sixtus V, andisof Pentefic -found near the Temple of Venus marble >> — 89, Bust of superb onen- and Rome. Here likewise are two tal alabaster — 90, Statue of an magnificent Columns of oriental Amaxon, probably copied fttim the alabaster, which adorn the door of famous Amazon of Ctesilaas !-^ the Giardino della Pigna» and were 93, a Small and beautiful Statue 6f Ibund in the Villa of Lucius Verus, % Faun blowing the Pastonl Flult, near the spot called Aoquatraversa and found near the Lake of Cir- •^42, Statue of Vraus-Anadyo- ceiitt--94. Statue of a Priestess of mene, in Gi*eek marble I-<45, Sta- Isis— 98, the celebrated Colossal ttie of a Grecian Hiilosopber-~46, Group of the Nile and his oiftpring. Bust of Lucius Antonius, brother The sixteen Infknts who surroond to the Triumvir— 47, Bust, exe- the River-god are scmpoaed to be . euted in superb oriental alabaster, emblematical of the height (six- and called Salhtst, though without teen cubits) to which the Nile

(J) The Mosaic Pavement, in front of this which «nce belonged to the Sabine*. ^

Statue, tram e from Tor Marancio, as did all (A) Canephorse were young ladies of treWe

tkc <»then «f a nmUar descriptio*. Wrth wbo. dunog f^tivab celriiratod in ho-

(tf) Ths valoable Mosaic Pavemeat, with aoar of Miaerva, carriW oa OM»f ••»«, in

ttana of Ephesus in its centre, was discovered t)askets, Vanous things destmea for sacnlti*.

in UOl, at Pcfgio Mirteto, in the cffoatij _

2X2 HOME. [Ch.VIL

usually rises; and the Plinth on sal Head of a Badan Slave f— 129,

which the Group rests is ornament- a Semi-colossal Statue of Commo-

ed with Bassi-rilievi, representing dus, in Pentelic marble — 132, Sta-

Animals and Plants indigenous to tue of a Canephora.

the Nile and its neighbourhood I ! ! At the end of the second division

Tliis elaborate Group, probably of the Galleria Lapidaria, and

executedduringthe reign of Adrian, leading to the Museo Pio-Clemen^

was found among the ruins of a /mo, is a »/at>ca«6 ornamented with

Temple consecrated to Serapis, Arabesques by Danielle da Vol-

near the Church of S'. Maria sopra terra : and to the left of the Stair*

Minerva; and corresponds with ease are Apartments containing

the description given by Pliny of Statues, Busts, Egyptian Divinities

the Group of the Nile in the Tem- recently discovered near the first

gle of Peace, except that the Group Cataract of the Nile, and reputed

e describes was basalt, and this is to be some of the most ancient

white marble — 103, an elegantly specimens extant of Egyptian

formed Vase of basalt, ornamented sculpture ; a Mummv, found in

with Dionysiac Masks, «J»c. — 106, the Burial-place of the Egyptian

ft Recumbent Statue of a Faun, princes, and wonderfully well pre-

which served as the ornament of a served, even to the linen which

Fountain in the Villa of Quintilius fills the Coffin ; Mummies of Cats,

Varus, at Tivoli — 107, an Hippo^- and other Animals held sacred,

campa surmounted by a Nereid with a considerable number more

— 109, ditto — 110, a Recumbent of Egyptian Antiquities : and be»

Statue of a Faun, wliich likewise yond this GaUery are three rooms,

-served as the Ornament of a Foun- containing Casts, in plaster, of

^ain in the Villa of Quintilius Statues and Bassi-rilievi, found at

Varus — 111, Statue of Ganymede, Athens, afad now in ihe British

Orecian sculpture, and sujmosed .Museum. These Casts were given

.oiiginaUy to have sidomed a Foun- by George IV, of England, to Pius

^n: it was found at Ostia* — 114, Vll. The Bassi-rilievi placed

.Statue of Pallas, found at Velletri, round the first room represent

4ind executed in Grecian marble I ! part of the interior Frieze of the

116, -an incognito Bust — 117, a Cella of the Parthenon, exhibiting

Statue of the Emperor Nerva festivals celebrated at Athens, in

wearing the toga, which is beauti- honour of Minerva, and called

fully executed — 118, Bust of a Panathensea. The recumbent Sta-

Nymph, probaWy the Fragment of tue, marked "A," represents the

«n Entire Statue — 119, Colossal river Ilissus, which waters Athens.

Bust of Claudius, found at Piperno, The Statue marked " B," is called

and supposed to have made part of a young Hercules ; and that mark-

a Colossal Statue of that Emperor, ed ** C," an Amorino, The Bassi^

fragments of which have been dis- rilievi placed round the second

covered — 123, a Statue called room likewise represent the Pana-

JEsculapius, but more probably thenaea. The Statue marked ** D,"

Augustus's Physician, Antonius is called Neptime ; the Group

Musa, in the character of ^scula- marked " E," Ceres and Proser-

pius!! — 124, a Semi-colossal Sta- pine; and the Head of a Horse,

tue of Antinous in the character of marked " F," appears to have be-

Vertumnus ; it is made of Grecian longed to the chariot of the setting

marble, and was found at Ostia ! I Sun. The Bassi-rilievi in the third

— 126, Group of Silenus nursing room represent the Battle of the

the infant Bacchus 1—128^ Colos- Lapithae with the Centaurs, whi<^

(0 T^9 name of Phedimo*, a Greciaa Artitt, ia inieribed upon this Statue.

Ch.VIIJ

home:

21^

ulso adorned the Parthenon. The Homer ;) and, on the left, two

Group marked ** G," in the centre Bcusi-rilievi, the one representing

of this room, has not yet been ex- a Sea-port, the otiber an ancient

plained. The Fragment marked Roman Galley, with soldiers fight-

" H," is by some persons supposed ing.

to represent the rising Sun, and Portico of the Court, To the by others Oceanus ; and the Heads right of the Entrance-door are, a of Horses, marked " I," appear to Column of granite, and another of have belonged to this Group. All white marble adorned with foliage — the Originals of these Casts were an ancient Bath, of black basalt, executed by Phidias and his scho- found in Caracalla*s Baths — a lars, except the Amorino, which is Basso-rilievo fixed in the Wall^ supposed to have been done in the representing Fauns and Gryphons, time of Alexander* under which stands afineSarcopha* Museo Pio-Clementino^. Square gus ornamented with Lions* Heads, Vestibule. This Apartment con- Fauns, and Bacchantes, and found tains Arabesques, by Daniello da under the new Sacristy of S.Peter's Volterra — the celebrated Belvedere — ^here, likewise, is the Sarcopha-* Torso, supposed to be the remains gus of Sixtus Varius MarceUus. of a Group representing Hercules First Cabinet, Perseus, by Ca- and Hebe, after the deification of nova — Damoxenus and Creugas, the former, and executed, accord- celebrated Wrestlers of antiqui^"*, ing to the Inscription it bears,, by by ditto — and, in the Niches on the Apollonius, the son of Nestor of sides of the Arch, Statues of Mer* Athens I ! ! ! — ^The Sarcophagus of cuiy and Pallas. JiUcius Cornelius Scipio Barbatus, Continuation of the Portico^. and a Bust, both found in the Tomb On the right, a Sarcophagus repre* of the Scipio family, and made of senting Bacchus and Ariadne in peperino * — several Inscriptions re- the Island of Naxos — another re- lative to the Scipio family (all found presenting Prisoners imploring in their Tomb) — and, opposite to Clemency fi*om their Conqueror — the Sarcophagus, a recumbent in the large Niche, a Statue of Statue. Sallustia Bai'bia Orbiana, wife of ' The second Apartment contains Alexander Severus, in the charac** a Vaseof Greek marble!! andfom* ter of Venus accompanied by Cu- Fragments of Statues ; that of a pid — a Sarcophagus representing Female, seated, being much ad- Achilles slaying the Queen of the

mired on account of the drapen^.

In the Balcony is an ancient Dial, with the names of the winds in Greek and Latin ; and found, ac- cording to report, near Baths»

Amazons ; and, opposite to these, two beautiful Half-colunms of rare marble.

Second Cabinet. In the centre

Titus's is the celebrated Statue of Melea-

ger, once called the Qelvedere An-»

The third Apartment contains a tinous**!!! It was found on a spot.

Statue of Meleager ! ! ! — and, fixed named Adrianello, near the Church

into the Wall on the right, a ^o^^o* of S. Martino in Monte ; with one

rilievo, (subject, the Apotheosis of of the arms and the left hand want-*

(k") So cftUed from iU Founders, Clement Xn< and Pio« VI.

(/) It would seem extraordinary that the bast and sarcophafpis of one of the greatest men of the age in which he flourished should be made of so common a stone as peperino, if we did not collect from Pliny, tnat marble was not used at Rome for the purposes of

sculpture, till about the flftieth Olympiad.

(m) Damoxenus was banished from Syra- cusae, his native country, for killing his anta- ffonist in a most unfair and brutal manner. Jsee Pausanias, 8. c. 40.

(n) According to the opinion of > isconti (already mentioned) this beautiful btatnt represents Mercury.

tu

ROMIE.

[Ch/VII.

ini^.--On; the rigbt/ fixed m the Baths of Ittuf*. The Statuo <tf

W»a,is»-BaMi»-nit«»ofAehiUe* Laocoon is unWersally €<msidered

tlajhig the Queen of the Amazons aa a ehrf-detware of. antiquity ; and

«-H>i^iosite to this, another Baato^ displays the picture of human na*

rilievo, (subject, Isiaic Ceremonies) ture struggling with grief, and try-

«fr4iiidin the Niches under the Arch, ing to oppose the stroke of fat^

Priapus and a young Hercules. with all the force of intellect. The

CmUmtoHon of the Portico, leff side of this wonderful Statue,

On the right is a Sarcophagus re- where the Serpents teeth have pe-

presenting the Seasons^another, netrated, is that part of the body

representing Nereides with the Ar- which seems to suflPer most, from

WomrofAchilles-^^ppositetothese^ its proximity to the heart; and is

a magnificent Bath of red granite considered as the finest production

-<r4ii|d, fixed in the Wall, a Bcuao^ of the Grecian chisel now in exists

ntie^o^ supposed, according to enoe. The right arm was wanting,

some (^linioBs, to represent one of and Michad Angelo attempted t^

the Gates of the Tempk ot Janus ; restore it in marble ; but not pleas*

and. aeeording to others, the Gate ing himself sufficiently to continue

of £temity. On each side of the the work, it was afterwards done in

Entrance to the Hall of Animals is plaster by Bernini. The Sons are

a fine Column of verde antique, said to be too much formed for

and the Statue of a Shepherd's children of nine or ten years of

Dog J— 'Further on are, a Sarco* ag^. Winckelmann supposes this

phagus, representing the Battle of Group to have been executed in tha

the Athenians with tiie Amazons — time of Alexander the Great ; but

another, representing Gknii and Pliny does not name the period

Baoehanalian Figures — and, oppo^ when Agesander and Ms associates

site to tibiia, a magnificent Bath of so eminently distinguished them-

red granite. selves. The Cabinet also contains

Third Cafnnei, Here is the unti* a Basso^rilievo, fixed in the Wall,

mitable Group of Laocoon, Son of and representing^ the Triumph of

f4riam and Hecuba, and High* Bacchus aft^ h^ Victory orer the

priest of ApoUo-Thymbrseus. Lao-* Indians ; and another, the subject

eoon endeavoiured to prerent the of which LsBacchaiialians. In the

reception of the wooden horse into Niches, on the sides of the Arch,

Troy ; in consequence of which, he and Ins two sons are supposed to have been killed by Serpents! If! This is the group mentioned by

are Statues of Polymnia, and a Nymph, foimd near the Temple of Peace.

Continuation of the Po/riiea, On

Pliny, as having been placed in the the right side, tixed in the Wall, .palace of Titus, and as the joint is a Baseo-rilievo of Hercules and woik of Agesander, Ap^odorus, Bacchus, with their respective al- and Athenodorus of Rhodes : it tributes — and, below this, a Sarco* was found, during the Pontificate phagus representing Genii car^ins; of Julius II, near the Sette Salle, Arms. H^re, hkewise, is a Batn m Reseryoirs, belonging to the of gigantic magnitude. Fixed in

(o) Some persons doubt whether the Laocoon of the Vatican be that mentioned l>y Pliny ; becanse he s^iys* the rronp was made with Ine sinf le blocH of marl>le, and the i«aoeoon of the Vatican is oomponed of two i)ieces. Winckelmann, howerer, tellti n8> that, in aU prob ability < the joint, eastly dis'^orerabte now, was not to be perceived in Pliny*s time. When Trarellers obtain permissfion to see the Vati- can Museum by torch-light, they nsnally

have four wax torches, (each containing four wicks,) placed within a rtjflector, fastoned to a long pole : and the light, thus arranged* is most jndicioQslr thrown on all the tanest statue«, so as to airplay and magnify theic beauties, while their imperfections are left ia shadow : and Laocoon, thns viewed, appears fine beyond conception ; because his ttgar«  only is exhibited, without the rest of the group.

Ctu VILl ROUS. %iy

the Watt is aoolhct fine BaN(h^ cientMosM^ofaWolf; tnd.fiirUMr riiiem of Aue:ustus saGrificing! on. are other ancient Mosaiea, some In the large Niche is a Statue of of which V9&c9 found at Palestrina, Hygeia ; and» fixed in the Wall, a Here is an unique, numerous, and Bas^o-rilievo rq>resenting Rome most^aluable collection of Animals, vith a yictorious Emperor — Yter^ sculptured in every kind of precious also, is another gigantic Bath of marble, and several of them beau- granite; andaSarcoj^agusadom- tifuUy executed, ed with Tritons and Nereides. Right Side of tJie Hall. Some

Fourth Cabinet This room of the most striking things here

contains the Belvedere Apollo !!!! are — Mithras stabbing the Bull-^

a Statue equally celebrated with an Ibis--a Stag in flowered ala^

the group of Laocoon, and found baster — two Groups, each repre« 

at Antium, toward the dose of the senting a Dog on the back of a

ftfteenth century. The foot on Stag- — ^a Small Greyhound — a Stag-

which the figure stands was broken, hound and Puppy — ^three Grey*

and the pieces are not well put hounds — Europa — a Small Bull—

together ; but the hands are finely a Small Lion in breccia, with

restored, especially the left. This teeth and tongue of other marble

Statue is supposed to have been — Group of Hercules and the Ne*

brought firom Greece by Nero ; it maean Lion — Group of Diomedes

is. rather taller than tKe common and his Horses destroyed by

height of man, appears to tread Hercules — a Centaur and a Love

on air, and exliibits all the mascu- -^and a Lobst^ . line beauty, grace, and dignity, QroUery of SteUt^ee. The most

with which we may suppose Adam remarkable pieces of sculpture on

to have been adorned before the the right side of this Apartment

FalL Two Basn-riHevi are fixed are— a Statue of Clodius Albinus

in the Walls : that on the right, re- — a half>length Figure of Love,

presents a Chase; that on the supposed to have been executed

left, Pasiphae with the BuU; and by a Grecian artist! — a Statue of

in the Niches, under the Arch, are Paris seated, with the Apple of

Statues of Pallas, and Venus tri- discord — Hercules — Minerva with

umphant. * an olive-branch in her hand — a

Continuation of the P&rtico. Statue, apparently Etruscan, of a Here are two Sarcophagi : in the Woman seated ? — Caligula — a centre of the first is Ganymede; Nymph — an Amazon! — a Faun and in the centre of the other Bac« just waking from sleep ! — Juno ! — ohtts between a Faun and a Bao^ Isis — a Seated Figure bearing the chante! opposite to these is a mag- name of Posidipos!! — Heads of nificent Bath of green basalt, found Domitia, Galba, Ly simachus, Ari- m CaracaUa^s Baths — close to the adne, Menelaus Valerian, Helio* Door of Entrance is a beautiful gabaJus,. Pertinax, Agrippa, Ca- Column of porphyry ; and oppo- racalla, Julia-Mammea, Jupiter- site to the Door, a Column of white Serapis, (in basalt,) and Antinous. marble, ornamented with Sculpture At the bottom of the apartment is ia the Arabesque style. a Statue of Jove seated, with Light*

JScdl ef AnimaU. This Apart- ning in his hand?! ! (the Basso*

HMBt is divided by a Vestibule rilievo on the Pedestal represents

in which are Columns and Pilas-«> Silenus and a Faun!) The other

ters of granite. The pavem^t side of the apartment contams the

near the entrance exhibit an an- Head of a Flamen^ or ancient Eo-

21 a ROME. [Ch.VIl,

man Priest of the second class, —Paris in a Phiygian dress— Mi- wearing the Sacerdotal Tiara; nerva — Ganymede with the Ea- a Head, with a Phrygian Cap, gle I !— and Adonis !! ! found near the Arch of Constan- Continuatiofi of the Gallery of tine ; busts of Trajan and Anto^ Statues. A Priestess— a Faun — a^ iiinus Pius ; a Statue of Livia, in female Figure draped with pecu- the character of Piety ; a Head of liar beauty, and supposed to re- Claudius; a Bust of Sabina; presentaVestal!! I — a Recumbent Heads ot'Brutus and Aristophanes; Semi-colossal Statue, called Cleo* a Bust, in Porphyry, of Philip the patra, but supposed to represent younger; a Bust of Marcus Aure- Ariadne asleep, in the Island of lius ; a Demi-figure of Apollo ; Naxos ! ! ! — Mercury, and Lucius and two Portraits, (on the same Verus !

block of marble,) called, without Continuation of the Hall of authority, Cato and Portia. This . Animals, Right side, going out side of me apartment lUtewise con- of the Gallery — an Equestrian tains a Sittmg Statue bearing the Statue of Commodus — an Eagle name of Menander I ! — Nero in — a Tiger — ^two Lions, one of the character of Apollo — a Statue which holds, in his claws, the Head of Septimius Severus — a Sitting of a Bull — two Bassi-rilievi fixed Statue of Dido — Neptune with his in the Wall ; the one represents a trident — Narcissus !— Bacchus as Cow and her Calf ; the other Wild- E River-God — the Emperor Ma- boars driven by an Amorino— a crinus — iEsculapius and Hygeia — Sphinx of flowered alabaster — ^the a Muse — Seneca in a consular Head of an Ass — a small Horse — habit — a Female sleeping— one of three goats — a Sow and Pigs — * the Dan aides, with a Vase in her Group of a Lion devouring a hand I — a Faun leaning against a Horse— a Cow in grey marble — tree — and a Statue of Diana I ! ' - Hercules killing Gerion— a Horse Cabinet of mosaic Masks, The — Hercules with Cerberus chained Ceiling of this elegant room was »— and a Group ot a marine Cen^ painted by Domenico di Angelis, taur and a Nereid, and represents the Marriage of Hall of the Muses » This apart** Bacchus and Ariadne — Paris giv- ment is ornamented by sixteen Co-» ing the Apple to Venus— Diana lumns of Carrara marble, with and Endymion — ^Venus and Ado- Capitals taken from Adrian's Villa; nis — and Paris and Minerva, and contains (among other sculp^ Here are eight Columns and eight ture) a rare and highly valuable Pilasters ot Oriental alabaster — a collection of Statues and Hermae^ beautiful ancient Frieze— a i^awo- found together, in the Villa of relievo, representing the Apotheo- Cassius, at Tivoli : the Statues «is of Adrian — with others allusive represent Apollo and the Muses ; to the Labours of Hercules. Here, the Hermae are Portraits of dis- also, are Seats of porphyry — a tinguished Grecians^ with their Basin and a Chair of rosso antico names inscribed upon them. On —a beautiful antique mosaic Pave- the right is a Herma of Cleobulus, ment, found in Adrian's Villa — a without the head — a Statue of Si- Statue of a Bacchante *> I — Ditto of lenus — Hermae of Sophocles and Venus rising from the bath I ! — Epicurus — a Statue of Meipome- Ditto of one of Diana's Nymphs ne — a Herma of Zeno — a Statue with a Torch I— a Faun in rosso of Thalia seated I — a Herma of antico, found in Adrian's Villa I ! I uEschines, the only Portrait existn

4

[ (9) According to some opinions thi« Statue represent! one of the Qonrs.

Ch.vii.] eome; pir

'mg of that great orator— « Statue Here likewise are Bam-riliwi re-»

of . Urania^a Henna of Demos- presenting the dance of the Coiy« 

thenes — a Statue of Calliope — a bantes — ttie Combat of the Lapi-

Herma of Antisthenes, the only thee with the Centaurs— the Birth

Portrait existing of that Philoso- of Bacchus, &c.

pher — a Statue of Polyhymnia Tke Entrance to tlie large Cir-

crowned with flowers, because she cular Hall contains, on the Arch

is the Muse of Rhetoric — a Head of the Door to the right, a Me-

called Posidonius — a Herma of dallion of Juno — ^in the Niche a

Aspasia veiled, the only Portrait Statue of Pallas— and, below, a

existing of that distinguished lady. Medallion with a festoon and a

and found at Castro Novo— a Sta- Medusa — in the opposite Niche a

tue of a female seated, supposed to Statue of Mnemosyne— and below,

represent Sappho I — a Herma of a Basso-rilievo of three Poets.

Pericles, the only Portrait existing Circular Hall. The Pavement

of that great statesman^Hermse of this apartment is an ancient

of Solon, and Pittacus, without Mosaic (found at Otricoli) repre« 

the head^s — Herma of Bias, the senting Medusa^s Head, and the

only Portrait existing of that phi- Battle of the Lapithse with the

losopher — a Statue supposed to Centaurs, encircled by another

represent Lvcui^s — a Herma of ancient Mosaic, representing Ma« 

Periander, the only Portrait exist- rine Monsters, and found m the

ing of that great statesman — a environs of Scrotano— -a magnifi-

Head of Alcibiades — a Statue, of cent porphyry Basin', forty •> one

Erato— ditto of Clio — a Herma of Paris feet in circumference, adorns

Socrates — a Statue of Apollo, in the centre of tliis apartment, which

bis theatrical dress, with a Lyre, is seventy feet in diameter, an4

exhibiting the death of Marsyas — contains a colossal Bust of Ju*

a Herma supposed to represent piter ! ! — ditto of Faustina the el-

Miltiades— a Statue of Terpsi- der! — ditto of Adrian (formerly in

chore seated — a Herma of Zeno his Mausoleum) — ditto of Anti*

the Epicurean— a Statue of Eu- nous — a Herma representing

terpe — ^a Herma of Euripides — a Oceanus ' — a Bust of Jupiter-Se->

Statue of Bacchus in female attire rapis— ditto of the Emperor Clau-

— aHerma of Aratus-rand aHer- dius — ditto of Plotina— ditto of

ma of Thales without the head. Julia Pia — ditto of PertinaxI —

In the Pavement is a Mosaic two Hermae (one on each side

(found at Lorium,) represent- of the Entrance-door) found in

ing comic and tragic Actors — and Adrian's Villa, and representing

another, in the Arabesque style, Bacchantes ! — Colossal Statues of

found near S*. Maria Maggiore. Commodus in the charac er of

The Ceiling was painted by the Hercules — Augustus in a sacrificial

Cav. Conca, and represents A-t habit — Ceres, or Melpomene re*

gollo and Marsyas — the Seven stored as Ceres!!! — Antoninus

aces of Greece — Homer singing Pius — Nerva ! ! — Juno, as Queen

to JVIinerva — Apollo, and some of of Heaven » I ! ! — ^the same heathei^

the Muses, with Homer, Viigil, divinity as the Goddess of Healthy

Ariosto, andTasso, in the Angles, with the dart, shield", &c.; and a

(r) These immense Basins seem to have the nlsinets.

made part of the farnitare of ancient Bnths ; (t) Fmm the Barberint collection,

tliere beiuK recently diHCOvered in the Public lu) Juno was worshipped at JAnuvium

Bnths at Pomi>eii a basin of this description, (where this statue was found) under the titla

which .was evidently tb« lower part of a of SotpUa^ and represented ms clothed in a

Fountain. goal's skin, and armed with a spear aod

(t) It is supposed that this Head was ori- shield, her feet being protected by sandals, finally encireied with Seven Stars, perhaps

tl8 ROMR: [Ch.YIL

Group representing Saediut, a repiesentin|Briliree of the Muses— Tiger end a Satyr. The Busts en a hraoket another Egyptian are plaeed on Columns of por- Idol of nero antico, found at Ti- phyry, and other rare marbles. voh — a Statue (on a pedesdal) of a Vestibule in the form of a Greek Muse seated— and, near this, a ero99. The I)oor of this apart- Statue of a Female veiled — aboye» ment is ma^ficently ornamented fixed in the Wall, a Figure of with two Egyptian Idols of red Victory, which once adorned the granite, under the form of Gary- Baths of S*. Helena — and, oppo«  atjdes, taken from Adrian* s Villa, site to this, another fijgrure of Vio* and bearing the likeness of An- tory. Here hkewise is the Sepul- tinous — ^two Vases of red gra- ehral Monument of S*. Helena, site, and a fine antique Basso^ found at Tor Pignattara : it con«  rilievo, representing a combat be- tained her remains, aiid is of por- tween Gladiators and Wild-beasts, phyry — near it are, a Statue un- In the Pavement is an an- draped, and another in the toga, eient Mosaic, representing Ara- both found at Otricoli — on a besques, and a head of Minerva bracket an Egyptian Idol, found found near Tusculum : the apart- at Tivoli — and, on a pedestal, a ment also contains a half-draped Statue found at Otricoli, and re- Statue of Augustus ; and, fixed presenting a Youth veiled, holding to the Wall, a Basso-rilievo of a Patera. At the Bottom of the a Gryphon^~an Egyptian Idol of Staircase is a Recumbent Statue nero antico, found' at Tivoli, and of the Tigris, in white marble \ placed upon a bracket ornamented and another of the Nile, in grey with two Swans — a Statue on a marble. The Staircase, which is pedestal of Lucius Verus, when magnificent, leads to a rotondo, young, found at Otricoli — and near called

the window a large Sepulchral The Apartment of the Car. In Monument of Porphyry, in which the centre of this Rotondo is an the remains of S. Costanza were ancifinl and elegantly sculptured deposited, and which was taken Car of marble, with two Horses, from the Church that bears her the one antique, the other modern, name — a Statue of a Muse seated. On the right of the Entrance-dcor and holding, a scroll, supposed to is a Statue of Perseus ; and in have once adorned the theatre at the Niche a Statue with a long Otricoli — another Egyptian Idol of beard, called Sardanapalus ; but nero antico, found at Tivoli, and more probably ^e bearded Bac- placed on a bracket — a Statue of chus. The apartment likewise Venus on a pedesdal ; and fixed contains a Statue which decidedly to the wall above, a Basso-ri- represents Bacchus I — a Warrior lievo representing three of the (with one foot on his helmet) sup- Muses. Before the Stairs two posed to represent Alcibiades— <a Colossal Sphinxes, of granite, and Statue v^ed,- and in the act of fixed to the Wall, near the Arch sacrificing — a Statue of Apollo supported by Columns of granite, with the lyre — a Discobolus — a a Basso-rilievo representing Chil- Statue supposed to represent Ajax, dren, and Lions* Heads— on the orPhocion!! probably the former^ other side a Basso-rilievo with if we noay judge by the cloak ; for Bacchanalian Figures — in the Phocion always appeared bare* Niche a Statue of Erato — and footed, and wiihout a cloak, both fixed to the Wall a Basso-rilievo in his rural retreat* and at the

(o) Th« Head of the Tigris was reator^by Michael Angelqk

eh. YIl.] ROME; %n

iuNMl of the Athenian armiesh- bellished bjrpcmiliarly fiiM Bagn-

(mother Discobolus, imitated from rihevi / / — other Candelabra --^

that of Myron — an Auri^ of tiie Cinerary Urns, 4^.^

Circus— a Grecian Pmlosopher SiveniA Division. Cinerary

holding a scroll— ApoUo Sauroe- Urns — other Urns of rare marble

tonos — and four Small but beauti- — four Candelabra.

ful Sarcophagi. Eighth Divinon, Two Cande*

Gfdlery qf Canddabra^ <$<c. The labra, one being particularly valua-

Vestibule of this immense Gallery ble on account ctf the fine basH'*

contains a considerable number of rUievi with which its Pedestal is

Egyptian Antiquities. enriched !— Cinerary Urns — other

First Division. A Faun, in Vases of rare marble — ^two superb

green basalt ! — Diana of Ephesus Basins, ^ --tSmall Statues of Children — Geographiecd Qalierp, This im-

two Sepulchral Urns standing on mense apartment is furnished with

pedestals ornamented with Bassi' ancient Maps of the Papal Terri*

rf'/tm— and a Small Statue of tories, and Hermse of distinguished

Merciuy. Characters.' On its Ceiling are

Second Division. Two Tripods Frescos, by the Scholars of Ha<*

«-*-two Vases — Small Statues of phael.

Children — ^Diana-Lucifera — Gany« Beyond the Greographical Gal« 

mede and the Eagle — and a Sta- lery, (on the right,) is a room

tue of a Female finely draped* hung with TapesUy, and contain-

Third Division.' A Sarcopha* ing, on its Ceiling, the Descent of

gus, adorned with bassi-rilievi re< the Holy Ghost, finely painted by

presenting Diana killing the ChMd^ Guido.

iren of Niobe — a singular Cande- The Vatican Museum is open to

iabrum representing Lilies, and the Public every Monday and

originally, perhaps, one of the Thursday, Festivals excepted, at

ornaments of a Temple of Vesta — the fifth hour before sunset, and

the Pescatore ! — Diana and a Grey- remains open four hours. Admit*

hound — SmaB Statues of Children tance may likewise be usually ob-

7^-an elegant Altar. tained on days when this Museum

Fourth Division. A Youth is not open to the Public, by an

draped — a female Fig[ure draped application to the Custode ; who,

«-^itto, with the Dorian Double thus called upon, expects a lee. Flute — a Priesteas with the Patera Libraria P'aticano. The usual

•^-Ceres. entrance to tliis magnificent apart*

Fifth Division. A Sarcophagus ment is from the Museo Chiara-

with a Gladiator on the Lid — monti. The rooms are open to

another with a Female Fi£:ure, the Public on the same days, and

resembling Sappho, on the Lid. at the same hours, with the rest of

Sixth Division. Two of the the Vatican Museum; but the

lai^est and most beautiful Cande- Books can only be seen from nine,

lafara existing, with Pedestals em* in the forenoon, till twelve'.

. (w) The Candelabra of Mara, Mercury* Mi- scripts kaye bees used, ia latter dajrfl, for

Berva, and 1 mis, are deemed the mo-st valua- other writingfs, merely to save paruhiaent :

ble of any in the Vatican Maseum ; both with the ancient characters, however, are frequent-

IWitpect to tbeir forn, aad the elegance of ly visible b«low thoveof modern date; on «>»•

their onuuneAls eertiiiaing which, he has already been able to

(.r) The Custode who shews the Maa*. rescue from Oblivion some B^yoka of Cictriit

•cnpta, aiid attends Straofers round the Republica; The Corr9*pftndenc9 bttwe^n

apartment, aspects from two to five pauls ; FnHU0 «md Mmret AurelitUt before and after

acoordiuf to the number of tiia party. tb« Utri*r became Emperor : a Frafiment of

The Librarian here has recently ditooTezed «« Oratim ky Q. Auretius Ssfmmmhui, wuh

that some of the most valuable ancient Mann- tim Huppi^mmt •/ two •tM«r QnUiiuui aa4

22a Rome; fCh. vin

Part of the ancient manuscripts superb Tables of granite, supported

in the Vatican Library are sup- by bronze Figures finely executed,

posed to have been collected dur- Among the rare Manuscripts are

ing: the fifth century, by the Pon- several Hebrew, Syriac, Arabic,

tiif S. Hilariusj who founded a and Armenian Bibles — a Greek

Library in the Lateran Palace. Bible of the sixth century in ca-

Nicholas V (learned himself, and pital letters, written according to

a distinpfuished patron of litera- the Version of the Septuagintj

ture) added above five thousand and firom which all the subsequent

manuscripts to the original coUec- copies have been taken — a very

tion ; placing them all in 'the Vati- large Hebrew Bible, presented to

can : and as succeeding Pontiffs the library by the Dukes of Ur-

so much increased the contents of bino, and for which the Venetian

his library, that the apartment, Jews offered its weight in gold-^a

wherein they were deposited, con- Greek Manuscript, containmg the

tained them with difficulty, SixtusV Acts of the Apostles in letters of

erected, according to the designs gold : (this was given to Innocent

of Domenico Fontana, the present VIII, by Charlotte, Queen of Cy-

superb apartment, which comprises prus) — a Missal, written in 1118

forty thousand Manuscripts, and —another, adorned with Minia-'

a choice collection of Books printed tures bj[ Giulio Clovio, the scholar

in the Fifteenth Century. of Giulio Romano, and the finest

T?ie VestibtUe of this Library miniature painter of his time — a

contains Chinese Works, relative large Breviary, ornamented with

to Anatomy, Greography, and As- fine Miniatures, and presented ta

tronomy ; together with two Co» the library by Matthias Corvinus^

lumns, bearing ancient Inscrip- King of Hungary — ^the Annals of

tions. Baronius, written with his own

The Ante-room is ornamented hand in twelve volumes — several

with a Ceiling painted by Marco volumes of Ecclesiastical History,

di Firenze, and Paul Brills by the learned Onofrio Panvinio,

The great Saloon has Fres- Augustine — a Martyrology, curi- cos, by Zuccari, on its Ceiling, ous on account of its antiquity, and a good Picture in oil, by Sci- and its Miniatures — Manuscripts pio Gaetano, near the Door of relative to S. Carlo Borromeo— a Entrance, and representing Six- manuscript Pliny, with beautifiil tus V receiving, firom Fontana, the Miniatures of Animals^a Virgil of Plan of the Library. Round the the fifth centuiy, written in ca- Walls are Presses to enclose the pital letters, and illuminated with Manuscripts ; any of which, on Miniatures representing thiBTrojans being asked for, are immediately and Latians m the dress of their shewn. This room contains a own times* — a Terence equally Sarcophagus of white marble with ancient — another Terence, of the a Winding Sheet of Asbestos, nine ninth century, illuminated with Roman palmi in length, and seven ancient Masks — a beautiful Tassa in breadth — Etruscan and Grecian — a Dante 'a4omed with exquisite Vases — Cinerary Urns — and two Paintings, begun by the Floren- ce Suppfement to the Oothic Vlpian Com- use of Students, from November till Jane, mentnnes. A %\%\\t of these Manascripts may- Festivals, Thursdays, and some other days be obtained by any Foreigner who is acquaint' excepted.

ed with the Librarian. (z) These paintings are not good r but they

(;y) Thi« Library, according to the notice in. . have been, excellently engraved by Santi

the Ante-room appropriated to the Transla- Bartoli ; and may be purchased at the Calebs

tors of the Hebrew, Arabic, Syriac, Greek graiia Camerale. and Latin languages, is open daily, for the*

Ph,YJL] HOME. 221

^ne School, and fipishied by Giulio Antiquiti^ foUnd in the CatH-

Cloyio — a Treatise on the seven combs — Instruments used in tor-

Sax^raments. composed by Henry turing the.. primitive Christians—

VIII, of England — original Letters and a Portrait of the Emperor

between that Prince and Anna Charlemagne, in stucco. Near

Bullen — several Papers written by the end of this Gallery is a Cabi"

Luther — the Lives of Federico di net superbly enriched, with por-

Monte Felhre, and Francesco-Ma- phyry and other precious marbles,

ria della Povera, Dukes of Ur- hung round with specimens of the

bino, adorned with exquisite Mi- Egyptian Papyrus, and exhibit-

niatures by Giulio Clovio — several ing, on its Ceiling, the chef"

Manuscripts written on Egypt an doeuvre of Menss ; who has re-*

papyrus — and the Gospels of S. presented, over the Doors, Mosea

Luke and S. John, written in the and S. Peter, beautifully painted,

tenth century, and bound in ivory V though less worthy of admiration

From the upper end of this apart- than the four Uenii, and th^

ment branch two immensely long four Children, on the Coves of the

Galleries. Ceiling I ! In the centre of this

The Gallery on the right is Ceilini^ is History resting upon supported by fine Columns of por- the "Wmgs of Time a Tablet, sup- phyry ; two of which, with Figures posed to record the Works of Cle- pn the top, were taken from the ment XIV ; while a' Genius pre* Arch of Constantine. Here are sents Scrolls of Papyrus, fcy means modem Paintings— Presses filled of which the Pontitfs fame may with Books— Etruscan and Gre- be transmitted to posterity. Ja- cian Vases — and, at the extremity nus is introduced into the Picturet of the Gallery, a Cabinet con-» as indicative of the present and taining beautiful Camei of Ju- the past: he appears to be dic- piter, ^sculapius, ^. — Etruscan tating to History. This Cabinet Antiquities, (among which is the also contains two Candelabra, recumbent figure of a Child !) — of Sevres Porcelain, given by Na- tive finest Bust extant of Angus- poleon to Pius VII. Beyond the tus ! ! ! — a Bust of Nero — ditto of cabinet of Mengs are two Rooms Septimius Severus — an ancient in a direct line, (one of which silver Salver or Shield — Human contains printed Books,) and two Hair found in a sarcophagus — rooms on the right ; one of which ^iicient Seals, Rings, ^c, contains a cel^jrated Collection

The commencement of the Gait of Engravings ; beautiful Etrus-

lery on the left, contains very can and Grecian Vases, and a

fine Etruscan and Grecian Vases Ceiling painted by Guido ; th9

— Presses filled with Books — a other contains magnificent Vases,

Statueof S.Hippolito^, seatedina and ancient Inscriptions fixed in

chair which exhibits the celebrated the walls,

pascal Calendar, and was found in Chiesa delta Trinita de' Monti,

the Cemetery of S. Lorenzo— and The Sacristy annexed to this

a Statue qf Aristides of Smyrna, Church contains the celebrated

The second division contains a Deposition from the Cross, by

Ceiling, by Pozzi, which repre- Daniello da Volterra I ! ! one of

sents the Church and Religion — the very finest frescos at Rome,

a (collection of Lamps, and other The Chiurch contains the Murder

(a) It seems extraordinary that there are Christians.

no ancient Rituals here, to shew the altera- (6) This is the most ancient marble statue

iiong 8ni>po8ed to have taken place in Church- extant of a Christian ; it was executed m the

cereqaonies $i9ce the time ot the primitive time of Aleq^adeT Sererns.

tn nowL iCh.rit

o# the fnnocenbt t another cele- tag 4he Titans ; on another are

bra|ed Fresco hy the same great Religion and Faiths urith Yolup-

painter ; and in the Ohiurch like- tuousness beneath on the left, and

wise is a copy, or vhat appears Silenus on the right On the third

to be nearly a copy of the I>epo- side are fibres of Justice and

sition from the Cross, painted on Abundance ii^^^e air ; and, below

eanvas, and cruell? injured. them. Charity on the right, and

Before, this Church Pius VI Hercules killing the Harpies on

o-ected an Egyptian Obelisk, forty- the left. On the fourth side is

fbur Paris feet and a half in a Figure which represents tlM

height, (excltMive of its pedestal,) Chur3i, accompanied by Prudence/

charged with ^llieroglyphics, and sending Peace to shut the Tempk

found, as already mentioned, in of Janus, chasing the Eumenides,

the Circus of Sallust and' ordering Vulcan to forge arms

' Chif^a dei P. P* Cappucdnu for the defence of Rome, in Piazza-BarberinL This Piazza The Staircase at the other end

is supposed to have made part of the Portim of. entrance leads to

of the ancient Circus of Flora; Apartments containing Statues

where, according to Suetonius, and Sarcophagi, (some of which

elephants danced on T0{)es. The were found at Palestrina;) to-^

Chiesa dei P. P. Cappuccini is rich geth«r with several fine Pictures,

in paintings. The first Picture Among these are — S. ^atthew,

on the right represents the Arch- by Guercino — S. Luke, by the

Angel Michael; and is considered same master — the Holy Famity,

to be Guide's finest easel poduc- by Parmigianino — S, Carlo Bor-

tion!!! S. Paul receivmg his romeo, by Pietro da Cortona-**'

sight, in the Chapel opposite to S. Girolamo, by Spagnotetto— the

that which contains the Arch- An- Guitar Player, by. Caravaggio~«S.

gel, is by Pietro da Cortonall Andrea Corsini, by Guido — the

and over the Door of the Church Death of Germanicus, by Nicolas

is a Cartoon, by Giotto, from which Poussin I — a small Landscape, fay

the Mosaic, called The Navicella, Claude, between two snmll Pic« 

and placed in ^e Portico of S. tures, the one painted by Guerdno,

Peter's, was taken I the other by Albano — a Head, by

Palazzo- Barberim, Stairease &t Tintoretto — Raphael's JFbrwanWa,

the lejt end of the Portieo of en- painted l^ himself! — the Portrait

trance. A fine Btaso-riltevo at the of a Lady, by Titian ! — a Picture,

foot of the Stairs — a fine AUo-ri-' by .Albert Durer — ^Adam and Eve

lieeo of a Lion (taken from Pales- quitting Paradise, by Domenichi-

trina,) near the first Landing Place, no I — the Cenei, by Guido t — and

First Fioor, The Ceiling of the her Mother, by Scipio Gaetano. principal Hall of entrance was The Barberini Library, whic^

painted by Pietro da Cortonal! contains near fifty thousand Printed

The "Subjects are allusive to Urban Volumes, besides Manusmpts, is

VIII. The centre exhibits the open to the Public every Monday

Barberini arms carried to Heaven and Thursday morning «^ by the Virtues, in |»-esence of Pro- Chiesa di S". Maria deUa Vit^

Ttdence, who is surrounded by toria. The Front of this Edifice

Time, Eternity, and the Fates, was built after the designs of Gio« 

On one side is Minerva vanquish- ranni-Baltista Soria ; and tiie m*

(c) The Barberini- Palace is shewn from ten is nsnal to give, at Rome, as in other cities of

in the morning till two. , Italy . from three to Ave pa als, acoordiag to Hie

Persons wishing to ensure admittance, at number of the party aduiirted : and in subteir^

tny given hour, to PaUces, or Villas, should ranean apartments, where the Cnstode provides

apply a day befbxdurad. At a f alsce it wax lights, it is twuia to give thx«e panls.

.€b.yil] BOMXL iSS,

Ittior partafter ^ose of Ckrlo Ma* on tiie right; a Picture of 8, Fraili damp: it is considered, in pohit of ceseo Saverio, by Baciccio ; .by architecture, to be one of the most whom likewise are the Paintings beautiful Churches at Rome. The on each side. The Crucifixion of inside exhibits Pilasters of Sicilian S. Andrew, over the High-altar, is jasper, a well painty Ceiling, a by Borgognone; and the next handsome marble Pavement, good Chapel, dedicatal to S. Stanislas, Altar-pieces, and fine sculpture, is ornamented with a Picture of llie Paintings in the second Cha- that Saint, by Carlo Maratta ; pel, on the right, are by Domeni-* and a Sarcophagus of lapis lasuli, chinol The last Chapel, in the containing his ashes«/ In the Coa«  cross-aisle, contains a Group, in ventual Edifice alining to this marble, of Joseph and an Angel, Church is a Chapel, once the WDomenieo Guidi: the opposite chamber of S. Stanislas, whidi Chapel, on the left, contains a contains his Statue, by Le Gros I Group of S. Teresa and an Angel, PalazzO'PoniiJieio. Thisprincelj by Bernini. Here, likewise, are two Structure is situated on the Qui- Sarcophagi ornamented with fine rinal Hill ; and stands on tht Busts, by Bernini ; and an Alto^ ruins of the Baths of Constantine; rilievo, in bronze, representing the It was l>egun by Paul III, con- Last Supper, by the same artist, tinned by Gregory XII I, and fi«  The ne^ Chapel is embellished nished by succeeding Pontiff^ with fine marbles ; and contains The Court-vard, or open Quad* an Altar-piece, ^ Guercino ; with rangle of the palace, is upward a Picture, on each side, b]^ Guido* of three hundr^ feet long, by one

Ibntanadi Termine, ThisFoun- hundred and sixty-five wide; three

tain, which is opposite to the parts being surrounded with Por-

Church of S*. Maria della Vittoria, ticos. The Staircase on the right

was erected by Fontana, at the leads to an immense Hall, the

command of Sixtus V. In the Frieze of which was painted by

centre of the £difice is a Statue LanfV'anco and Carlo Saraceni :

of Moses; and on each side a and over the door of the large

Basso-rilievo ; the one represent- Chapel, at the end of the Hall,

ing Aaron conducting the I^tielites is a fine Basso-rilievo, by Taddeo

to quench their thirst ; the other, Landini, of our Saviour washing

Gideon encouraging them to pass the feet of his Disciples, lliis

the river Jordan, and directing his Chapel, in size and shape similar

soldiers to lead the way. This to the Cappella-Sistina at the

Fountain is Kkewise ornamented Vatican, was fitted up with great

with four Lions, two of whioh are elegance, by Pius VII, who re*

white marble, and two basalt ; the sided chiefly on Monte^Cavallo.

latter being Egyptian sculpture. Contiguous to the large Chapel

and highly estimated. They were is a magnificent suite of apart*

removed trom the Portico of the ments splendidly furnished in the

Pantheon, to be placed in their French style, and enriched with

present situation. The Plinths on a good collection of Pictures ;

which these Lions rest are basalt, among which are, in the Jirstroom^

charged with Hieroglyphics. Saul and David, by Guercmo !— S.

Chiesa di S* Andrea a Monte- Agnes, by Annibale Caracci — ^an

Cavaiio. This beautiful littk j^cce /fomo, by Domenichino — a

Church was built by Bernini, in Sketch of the Transfiguration, by

th^ form of an ancient temfde: Raphael !— The Martyrdom of the

it is adorned with fine marbles; Jesuits, by Bassano---4he Madonna

md £OQtaina» in the first Chapel and our Savioor* by Guido--Si

.224 ROMK ICfi.Vn.

Catherine, by Annibale Oaracci den contadns a Pavilion, the out-

•-^ Ditto, by the Cav. d'Arpino — side of which is omiamented with

S.John, by Giulio Romano — the four large Basn'rilievi, found in

"Madonna and our Saviour, by Trajan*s Forum, and three small

Rubens — the same subject, by ones, found in the Baths of Con^

Baroccio — ^the Maiionna, our Sa- stantine. On the Ceiling of the

viour, S. John, &c., by Palma principal room of the Pavilion is

Vecchio, The small Chapel, ad- the celebrated Aurora of Guido ;

joining to this room, is beautifully according to many opinions, the

painted, by Guido ; the subject finest- Fresco at Rome til Here

being the Life of the Madonna; and likewise are two Loves, by the

the Annunciation, over the Altar, same artist ; two Landscapes, by

is particularly admired. The second Paul Brill: two Paintings, by

room contains Pictures of Ani- Tempesta, both taken from Pe-

mals, by Petri. The third room is trarca ; the one represents the Tri-

omamented with a fine Ceiling, umph of Fame, and the other the

STAtf/owr/A, with a Frieze, byThor- Triumph of Love: two Columns

waldsen, representing the Triumph of rosso antico ; a bronze Horse,

of Alexander, and a fine Ceiling, and a Statue of Diana : the four

The fifth room contains an elegant last were found in Constantine*s

Bed, and a fine Frieze, representing Baths.

the Triumph of Trajan, by Finetti. Room on the right. Death of

In the sixth room are Copies of Sampson, by Lodovico Caracci—

Raphael's Arabesques, and a fine head of Guido, by himself — Gar*

IVieze by Sig. Alessandro d'Este ; den of Eden, by Domenichino— -

and, in the seventh room, a beau- and Sophonisba, after having swal-

tiful Chimney-piece, and a Ceiling lowed poison, by Calabrese.

by Palagi. The ninth room con* Boom on the left The Triumph

tains a Picture of S. Peter, by of David, by Domenichino I — ^the

Fra. Bartolwnmeo I ! — S. Paul by Saviour, and the twelve Apostles,

the same preat artist ! ! — S. Giro- (each being a separate picture,)

lamo, by Spagnoletto— S. Cecilia, by Rubens — the Saviour bearing

by Vanni — S. George, by Porde- his Cross, by Daniello da Vol-

none — our Saviour disputing with terra — Conjugal Love, by Gior*

the Doctors, by Caravag^o I! — ^the gione — Andromeda, by Guido —

Adoration of the Magi, by Guer- a Love, by Nicolas Poussin — ^head

cino — ^the Marriage of S. Cathe- of Ditto, by himself — the five

rine, by Battoni — S. Cecilia, S. Senses, by Carlo .Cigniani I — and

Agnes, &c., by Caracioli — S. Se- an Ecce Homo, by Guido. Busts

bastiano, by Paolo Veronese-^the of Adrian, Septimms Severus, Ci^

Ascension of our Saviour, by Van- cero, and Seneca, found in the

dyck — and a Picture by Annibale Baths of Constantine ; and the

Caracci, representing a Legend. celebrated Bust, in basalt, of Sci->

These Apartments cannot be pio Africanus, found, according

$een without an order from the toFulviusUrsinus, at Lintemum;

Cardinal Secretary of State, when and bearing, on the right side of

the Sovereign resides in this Pa- the head, a mark which resembles

lace ; but, when he does not, they a Scar. This mark may be seen

may be seen at any time, by an on the marble bust of Scipio, in

application to the Swiss Guards, the Capitol; and likewise on his

in the Quadrangle. bust in the Villa- Albani.

Palazzo- Rospigliosi, This Edi* Fontana di Trevi. The water

fice was erected on the ruins of which supplies this beautiful Foun*

Con6tantine'9 B^ths ; and ita Gart tain was brought to Rom.e by

Ch. VII.] ROME. 225

Agrippa, for the use of his Baths ; Church of the Madonna del Po-

and derives its name of Aqua Vir- polo: the Statue of Judith is by

^tm> from a young female Peasant, Le Brun; and that of David by

who discovered the Spring, and Pietro Pacilli. The third Chapel

shewed it to some famishing sol- on the right contains a Pictiu-e of

diers. It is deemed the best water S. BamsSa, by Mola I

at Rome. The decorations of this Chiesa di S, Lorenzo in Lu-

Fountain were desired bv Niccolo cina. The High-altar here is en-

Salvi, at the command of Clement riched with a cdebrated Picture

XII. The Statues represent Ocea- of the Saviour on the Cross, by

nus. Salubrity, and Abundance ; Guido !

and the Bas^-rilievi over the two Chiesa di S, Ignazio, This mag- last, represent Agrippa and the niiicent edifice was erected by Car- Peasant-girl. dinal Lodovico Lodovisio, chiefly Chiesa di S^, Maria del Popolo, after the designs of Domenichino : This Church contains, in the first it is ornamented wjth fine anti(}ue and third Chapels, to the right. Columns of marble ; and contains Paintings by Pinturicchio : the in- two beautiful Chapels made after termediate Chapel has an Oil- the designs of the celebrated Father

Sainting on the Wall, by Carlo Pozzi, a Jesuit. That on the right laratta. The Paintings in the is adorned with an Alto-rilievo, by Tribuna are by Pinturicchio ; and Le Gros, representing S. Luigi the Chapel to the right of the Gonzaga,whose relics are deposited High- altar contains a Picture of here, in a tomb incrusted with the Assumption, by Annibale Ca- lapis lazuli. The other Chapel racci ! The Chigi-Chapel was de- contains a Basso-rilievo, by Filippo corated according to the designs of Valle, representing the Annuncia-^ Raphael ; and contains a Statue of tion. Here, Ukewise, is the Monu- Jonas, designed by him, and exe- ment of Gregory XV, by Le Gros ; cuted under his immediate orders, and a Pictiu-e of S. Giuseppe dying, bv Lorenzetto ! ! The Statue of by Trevisani ! The Ceilings of the Elias also is supposed to have Nave and Tribuna are painted by been designed by Raphael; the Pozzi; and the former represents other Statues were done by Bernini, the Apotheosis of S. Ignatius ; Near this Chapel is the singular from whose head issue rays, em- Monument of the Princess Odes- blematical of his. having enlight- calchi Chigi. ened the four quarters of the world. Chiesa di S, Carlo al Corso. Chiesa de' S, S. Apostoli. This This splendid Church was begun noble Structure was erected bv according to the designs of Onbrio Constantine; and afterwards rebuilt and Martino Lunghi, and finished by Fontana. The Portico of the by Pietro da Cortona ; who erected old Edifice is still entire ; and con- the Cupola. The picture which tains an. antique Basso-rilievo of adorns the High-altar is by Carlo an Eagle, at one end ; and at the Maratta, and represents the Apo- other, a Basso-rilievo of Friend- theosis of S. Carlo ! The Tribuna, ship deploring the death of Vol- the An^es of the Cupola, and the pato, by Canova. The Church is Ceiling of the Nave, were painted divided into three aisles by Pilas- by Brandi. The Chapel in the ters of the Corinthian order. The Cross, on the right, was desiefaed Ceiling of the Nave was painted by the Cav. Paolo Posi; and the by Baciccio; and represents the Picture in Mosaic, with which it is Triumph of S. Francesco. The ornamented, was copied from that Ceiling of the Tribuna was painted painted by Carlo Maratta in the by Odazzi, and represents the FaU

ii4 ^jOti&s i&k,Vtk

at the Aihg^ls t ? Th€l fFigh-^ar^ lile^ Ifie ^sigrtei ^ F^^fh^ TGfd,

piece i* l^ Domefifkjhino Muratori. is pecti^arly miigtiifieent ; the C^-

ftie fest Chapel, ori the ri^ht, near Itdnns which Udom the Attar MA^

the Grest Door, and the Chapel in lapis lazuli Hilted -v^h hronze ^ *

the Cross, on the rig^t, are parfi-^ af«i the Globe held by the DeitJ

cularly rich in marbles; and a^- the largest piece of lapis lAttifi

J(yining to the latter, is another ever seen. Above the AKaSr, hi a

Chapel, which contains eight beau- Niche inerasf ed with lapis lazv^i,

tiful antique fluted Columns* of is a demi-eelossdl silver Statue 6i

White marble. The Second Chapel S. I^atius, accoofipanied by three

on ttie left near the Great Door, is Angels, and done after the designs

oiTfiaraented wrfh particularly fine of Le Gros. The reiM^s of the

Colirainsof verdeairtique and othei^ Saint repose under the Altar, in »

marbles : and over the Door of the Tomb of bronze gilt, enriched with

Sacristy is the Monument of Cle- basH-rilievi afid precious stones :

ftient ilV, b^ Canova ; who has atwi otf one side of the Altar is

placed fhe Statue of the Pope be-' a celebrated Grotip of Reli^« 

tween twa female figures, namely, vanquishing Heresy, by Le Gros ; « 

Temperance and Huraililty. This and on the other side a Grbup, by

Church contains another fine Mo- Teudone, which represents Idola-« 

nument, by Pozzi, adorned with a trous Nations embracing Ghristi-

beautiful Group representing Cha- anity. The Ceiling was painted by

^ty. Baciccio. This Church contains^

Chiesa di Sf«. Maria di Loretio. one of the best organs at Rome * , "this little Church, considiered as Cktesa di S. Andrea deiia ValiSi

a fine piece of architecture, was According to some opinions, thiiS

built by San^allo ; andhasadou- noble Edifice stands on' 1^

ble Cupola, like S.Peter's : it con- Site of the C&ria of S*ompey,

tains a celebrated Statue of S. Su-' where Gaftsaar was assassinated :

sanna, by Fiamingo. its Cupola, by Lanfi-aneo, is tt

Ckiesa di Gesit, This magni- master-piece If the four Evange-*

ficent Edifice was erected hy Car- lists in the Angles are by Dotiae-^

dinal Alessandro Farnese after Mchino ; and the S. John is called

^e plan of Vignola ; and finish-' his ch^f-danwre in this description

ed by Giacomo della Porta. The of painting. The Ceiling of the

Frescos on the Ceiling of the Trifeufta was done by the same

Nave, Tribuna, and Cupola, are great artist, and represents thd

by Baciccio*; who has represented Life of S. Andrew: thethyee large

S. Francesco Saverio ascending Frescos on the Walls of the Tri*

to Heaven ! ! The Angles of the buna are by Calabrese, and repre-

cupola are particularly beautiful, sent the Martyrdom of S. Andrew**

The Chapel in the Cross, on the The Strozzi- Chapel was^ desired

right, was made after the designs by Michael Angelo ; and the Bar-

of Pietro da Cortona ; and con- berini- Chapel is rich in marbled

tains a Picture bv Carlo Maratta, and sculpture, and in Fainting!?, by

representing the Death of S. Fran- Passignano.

cesco Sttverio. The High-altar Chitsa della Trinii^ de" P^e^

is decorated with fine Columns of grini. This Church contains d

giallo antico, and a Kcture of the High-altar-piece by Guide, repre-*

Circumcision, by M'uziano ! The senfing the Trinity. Our Savioirf

Chapel of S. Ignatius, executed is on the Cross accompanied \x^

(ti) There freqnently U fine mtisie in this festival of Corpos X)Otniifi; and fbif sfottilerdBftt

Church; especiaily on the last day of the after, old year, the fint dBy of the new year, the

Ch. VIIJ

&6MIS.

S97

two kileiaiflf Angels : his ftgitrfe hmk ; which ksl teprtsetiti* Ihfe

and countenance are particularly Assumption. The Altaf-piece tff

fine i over the Cross hovers a Dove ; the first Cha]pel ofl the right wai

and higher up, is God the Fa- doile by Scipio Gaetatfo— the

therflf *f he representation of the dead Christ, in the next Chapel,

Deity in the Lanteiiti is likewise by is i, Copy from Cararag^o** cele'.

Gtnido, brated Pictute in the ViUidm,

Chiesa Hi S. Carlo de' Catinarii The High-iatar is criHamented with

This inr a noble Edifice^ adorned four ftne Columns of Porta- Santai

with one of the most beautiful and a ^tfpeirb Ciborio. The Trt^

Cupolas in Rome. The Ceiling buna contain^ Paintings, byRu^

of the Tribuna was painted by bens ; but they ate consideHiM|i

Lanfrahco ; and the Cardinal Vir- dama^ted. The Chapel of Si. Fi-

tues, in the Angles of the Cupola, lippo Meri,- under one of the Or-*

by Domenichitio : they are Strik- gans, contains his ashes, atid hiA

ingl^ fine ; particiilariy the figure of Portrait iti md^aic, eopied fhrtW

Fortitude ! ! ! The Annunciation iii the original bf Guido \ tne Chapel

the first Chapel, on the right of the Utidef the other Of^ati ckmtaini^ a

Entraace-door, is by Lanfii-anco \ Picture, by Carlo Mai-atta. The

and the Dedth of S. Anna^ in one 6f next chapel to that 6f S. Filippo

t|ie Chapels ofthe Cross, by Andrea Neri contains a Picture, by Ba*

Saechi? The High-altar is deco- toccio, of the Presentation <rf the

rated with four colunms of por- Madonna in the Temple! The

phyry, and a Picture by Pietro da following Altar-piece is bt the

Cortoha. The Ceiling of the Sa- fiame artist, and re^fesents th^

eristy was paitited by Lanfi-anco^ Visitatioii; and the Paintings id

and represents the Assumption ; the last Chapel are by the Cav;

and an Adjoii!iin£r Room contains d'Arpino. The Sacristy id etirieheci

a Portrait of S. Carlo, by Guido •! with a Statue bt S. Filippo Neri,

Chiesa di S. Giovanni d^ Mo- by Algardi ! a Picture Of the Ma.s

rmtini. This fine Church, erect- donna contemplating the CroWfi

edi according to the designs of of Thorns, by Trevisaiii; ahd a

Giaeomoi defla Porta, contains a Ceiling finely painted by Pietro dd

Picture <rf the Martyrdom of Saints Cortona I TM apartnienti abotf^-^

Cosimo and Damiano, by Salvator stctirs eotltain a Ceiling Which

Rosa! a Chapel painted by Lan- represents S. Filippo Neri,^c.i hf

firance! aPictureofS.Girolamoby Pietro da Cortona; the Portrart

Gigoli ; and the Monumefit of one of the Saint, from which the Mo-'

of the Corsini family, by Algardi. saic in the Church Was taken ; arid

Chiesa di S, Maria in Valli-i a Head cft bur Saviour^ by Pietro

cella, commonly called Chiesa Perugino? > ,

Nuovd. This splendid Church CXiesa di S«. Maria dglla Pm^*

was built by S. Fflippo Neri^ Here, on the right of the Great

after the designs of Martino Door, afe Rajm^ers eelebrated

Lunghi and Pietro da Cortona } Stbyls^ suppoftA to tjfe predieiifig

the latter of whom paihted the the Birth ol otu* SatiourMf! This

Oeihng of the Nave, the Cupola^ inestimable Fresco^ eoni^ei'ed/ ifi

and the upper part of the Tri- point of composition, as the sub-

{/!) Thtf.Chtirch of S. Carlo de' Catinati con- tams a Monament to the memory of Lorenzo ^|)erandi; with «ii epitaph, which records, th«t he was fsmotis for terminating amicably thf! differences which occurred amongst h^ HitMbi inA ^elfttions— an tmcotnmon pane- gyric ; though one of tte ^resfe^t, perbipsj

that can be bestowed on any mail.

(/) If the Etrurians were, as some au- thors sttppose, originally Cananeians, proI)ablT they might bring the Old Testament intb Italy :— and ad the Romans borrowed many of their religious ceremonies Jrom tlje Etrunang, It Se<m8 fiOr i<i infer tluittb^ SibytXtne 9raaif

Q 2

228 KOME. [Ch.VII.

limest work ofRaphaelf was almost cmartments on the ground Jhor; obliterated, and would soon have tne first room of which contains — been totally extinct, had not a Christ taken into Custody, by Van- living artist restored it; and so derstem — a Sibyl, by Guido Cag- well has he executed this difficult nacci — ^the Adoration of the Magi, task, that every lover of the art of by Jacopo Bassano— S. Peter, by painting would wish to see him l^agnoletto — Sketch of S. Doine- employed in restoring those Fres- mco, by Giorgione — S. Cathe- cos of the Stanze di Raffaello, rine of Siena, by AgostinO Ca- which are hastening rapidly to racci — the Holy Family, by Garo- decay. Above the Sibyls are four folo — the Madonna and Infant Prophets, likewise by Raphael. Jesus, by Sassoferrato^the same The Frescos on the left of the great siibject, by Andrea del Sarto— the door are attributed to Timoteo Nativitv, by Mazzolini di Ferrara d*Urbinp. The first Chapel, on the — ^and the Crucifixion by I^andro right, is ^ubellished with good Bassano. 77ie second room con- sculpture ; and this Church also tains — ^Diana shooting, by Dome- contains a picture of the Visitation, nichino 1 1 — the Deposition from by Carlo Maratta ; and another the Cross, by Federico Zuccari l-r- of the Presentation by Balthazar Head of the Magdalene, by Agos- PeruzzL . tino Caracci! — ^Head of Christ, by Chiesa di S. Agostino, Here Annibale Caracci! — the Deposi- is a celebrated Fresco of the Pro- tion from the Cross, by Garofolo — phet Isaiah, by Raphael, placed to three Cabinet Pictures, by the same the left of the Great Door, and on master — Christ bearing his Cross, the third Pilaster of the Nave 1 7 by Muziano — Head of S. Antonio Here, likewise, in the Chapel of by Agostino Caracci — Head of S. S. Agostino, are three Paintings, francesco, by Annibale Caracci — y Guerciiio : another of the Cha- two Landscapes, by Francesco pels was painted by Lanfranco ; Bolognese — ^the Madonna, the In- and another contains a Group, in fant Jesus, and S. John, by Pie- marble, representing the Madonna, rino del Vaga — Christ and his the Infant Jesus, and S. Andrew, Disciples, by Bonifazio — Lucretia,

§r Andrea Contucci da Sansovino. by Vasari — Leda, by the same ne of the Altars is ornamented master — Troy in flames, by Baroc- witli the Statue of a Saint, by Er- cio— a Precepe by Tibaldi, one of cole Ferrata; and another Altar Michael Angelos scholars — and exhibits the Madonna di Loretto, Diana's Bath, by Poelenburg. This by Caravaggio. room likewise contains a Sarco- Conti^ous to this Church is a phagus of poiphyry, found in Public fibr^, deemed the best in Adrian's Mausoleum ; and there- Rome, except those of the Vatican, fore supposed to have lield his «nd the Minerva. ashes. Third room, — A Stoiy t PalcuzO'Borghese, This is a from Ariosto, by Lanfranco — 8. \ /Splendid Edifice, and particularly Francesco and Angels, by Annibale .rich in Pictures: those usually Caracci I — S. Antonio preaching J shewn to Strangers are in the to the Fishes, by Paolo Veronese J

might be derived from the Bible. UhycA^ro^ Christian zeltgion, in yenies recorded by Ea-

phegied;" That the day would come when all sebius; the first letters of which, beinr uat

sen would see the King of all living things.** together, make the words. " Jesus Christ Sa»

CtuBSsa, a Babylonian, prophesied ; " that God o/Ood^ Saviour ;" and Persica foretold »' That

woold be bom of a Virgin, and converse among the womb of the Virgin would prove the mml.

aiimers." Delphica prophesied ; •• That a vation of the Gentiles."

Prophet would be bom of a Virgin.** Ery thraea. The word, Sibylla, is oriental, and sianiiie.

» JMbfXxmiw, foretpW » r«»t PWt of th^ • Gleaner pf can ©f Jpni, ' wasignuiw

Ch. Vnj ROME. ' 2^9

a Portrait, by Andrea Sacchi ! — a Prodij^al Son,byTitian — a Boy with

Portrait, by Pietro da Cortona ! — Flowers, by Caravag^o I — a Faun,

Head of Raphael, by himself!— ty Lodovico Caracci! — the Holy

Pordenone and bis Family, by Family, by Agostino Caracci — and

himself !-:— the Madonna and Infant a Cabmet Picture, representing the

Jesus,byGarofolo-^the same sub- Resurrection of Lazarus, by the

ject,by Giovanni Bellino — ^the same same master. Eighth room. — ^The

subject by Francfi — Head of Pe- Graces, by Titian ! ! — ^the Prodigal

trarca, by Holbein — ^two Pictures, Son, by Guercino I — ^the Saviour on

by Gentileschr— the Holy Family, the Cross, by Vandyck! — Cattle,

by Palma Giovane — S. Catherine, by Paul Potter !— a Small Head of

and other Saints, by Parmigianino Christ, by Carlo Dolci ! — ^a small

— the Last Supper, School of Head of the Madonna, by the same Titian — ^5. John, by Paolo Vero- master! — Sampson, by Titian, (a nese— the Holy Family, by Pome- Sketch)— Portrait of Cosimo de' rarichio— Lucretia, by Bronzino— Medici, by Bronzino — the Resur- and the Holy Family, by Lumi rection of Lazarus, by Garofolo — Fontana. Fourth room.'—TheBer the Magdalene, by Andrea del position from the Cross, by Ra- Sarto— me Flagellation, by Graro- phael!! — the same subject, by folo— two Portraits painted on mar- Vandyck ! — Circe, by Dosso Dossi ble, by Bronzino — and the Holy

— the Visitation, by Rubens!— Family, by Caravaggio. Ninth Saul and David, by Giorgione !— room. — ^A Concert, by Leonello S. Cecilia, by Domenichino I— S. Spada !— the Madonna and Infant John, copied from Raphael, by Jesus, by Carlo Dolci! — Lot and Giulio Romano — ^Europa, by the his Daughters, by Gherardo delle Cav. d'Arpino— the Flagellation, Notti— the Holy FamUy, by Venuti by Sebastiano del Piombo— a —the same subject, by Scipio Gae- Group of Persons eating, by Te- taho— the same subject, by Andrea niers— the Birth of the Madonna, del Sarto— the same subject, by School of Titian— two of the Apos- Giovanni Bellino— the wife of Ti- ties, in separate pictures, by Mi- tian, by himself— the Holy Family, chael Angelo — ^Vanity, by Luini— by Garofolo— the Madonna and and a Head, by Paris Bordone. Infant Jesus, bv Frangi— the As- Fifth Room, — Four oval Pictures, cension, by Taddeo Zuccari — and by Albanol!— the Madonna and a Cook, by Caravaggio.

Infant Jesus, by Andrea del Sarto Pulazzo-Sciarra. The second

—the Holy Family, School of Ra- Btoru of this Edifice contains a

phael— the same Subject, by Lo- small, but choice cdlection of Pic-

tenzo Tecreti— the Woman detected tures; the greater part of which

inAdultery, by Bonifezio— S.John, once enriched the Palazzo- Barbe-

bv Giulio Romano— Battle of Cour rini. First room.— Chnst beanng

stantine, by the Cav. d'Arpino— his. Cross, by the Cav. d'i^pmo—

Venus, by Padovanini—the Holy S*. Barbara, by Pietro da Cortona

Family, by Fra Bartolommeo—and —Noli me tangere, by Garofolo !—

Lucretia,Schoolof Guido!— 5fix^A, the Madonna and our Saviour, by

room —The Forfiarina, by Giulio Giovanni Bellino— a fine Copy of

Romano— and several Pictures of the Transfiguration, by Carlo Na-

Venus, &c. by various masters, politano— ^S. Sebastiano, by Pietro

Seventh room.-^SB.cred and Pro- Perugino— Christ and the Woman

fane Love, by Titian I !— Portrait of Samaria, by Garofolo I— S*.

of Caesar Borgia, by Raphael ! !— Francesca and an Angel, by Carlo.

Portrait of a Cardinal, by Raphael Venetiano— Abraham's S«^e,

— Portrait, by Pordenone I— the by Gherardo delle NotU—Raphads

Mi mm. [m.ni.

fbffi^rtna, by GiuHo Bomaao — a Aveadia cdntenqilatbig a Hvmau Small Piefufeoftfae Madonna and Skull, by Schidonef— Fortxait of our Saviour, by Titian — another; a Youth, by Kaphael !— Head of of the Holy Family, by 9a$sano--4 S. John, after Decapitation, by another of the Deposition fbom the dl'iorgione — th& Madonna, the Sa* Cross, by Bassano^— a Large An- viour, and S. John, by Fra Barto-* ^que Pamting, subject unknown, lommeo; together wim Small Ficr iSf^cdncfroom.— A Small Landscape^ tures by Breughel, Albano, &c. , by Paul Bi^ — ^two Landscapes, by EeUazzo'Doria, This magnifi- / CHaude Lorrain I — ^two ditto, by Fia- cent Palace contains a large and fine ^ mingo— two, of a larger size, by collection of Pictures; among which fioth ! — Gupid, by the Oav. Lan£ are the most celebrated Landscapes — two Sma!U Landscapes, by Breur at Rome. TAe fifst apartment. ^^ 1 and, between them, a Small shewn to strangers, is ornamented ^aude — a Landscape, by Nicolas with a Painting qn the Ceiling, Poussin -— several othei^ Land- byPietrodaCortona; it represents scapes ; and a Picture representing Noah's Sacrifice. Tke second the Church of Gesii, during the apartment contains Landscapes in Canonisation' of S. Ignatius and S. tempera, by Gasparo Poussin, Cicr Francesco Sarerio : the architec- cio Napolitano, &c. The third tural part of this painting is by 6a- apartment likewise contains Land- fiani, and the ^giires are by Andrea scapes, by Gasparo Poussin ; and $acchi. ' Third room, — The Holy a Picture, by Castiglione, of a Fe- Fainily, hy Frangi^— Noah intoxi- male Turk on horseback t Fourih cated, by Andrea Sacchi — ^the Ma- apartment.— r-The Marri|Lge of 6, geUation, by Leonello Spada— Catherine, by Scipio Gaetano-^twe Cleopatra* by Lanfranco ! — the Small Landscapes, by Both ; one of «  Deposition fybm the Cross, by which represents the Kepose in Bai^occio— the Saviour between An- Bgypt, the other the Fable of Mer- gels, by Fiamingo — Sampson, sup- cuiyand£rse. Fifth apartment,-— posed to have been painted either Bndymion, by Guercino — Portrait by Garoselli, or Guercino 1 — Moses, of a Lady, by Titian — Portr^iit of by GuidoJ— the Holy Family, b^ Macchiavello,byAndreadelSart6l Albano!-^and our Saviour, th4 — Bortraitof Donna Olimpia Mail- Madonna, and other Saints, by dachini*, author unknown — Po.r- Albert Durer. J^nhth, ' room.-^ hsait of a Lady, by Pablo Veronel|e t^anity an& Modesty, by Leonardo — ^the Death of Abel, by Salvator ^ Vincitll — Gamblers cheating a Rosa I — Christ bearing his Cross, Yoilth, by Carava^gio)}! — Coiiju. by Fr^ngipani — Jansenius, by Tl-f jifalLoye,byAgostinoCaracci — ^the tian — Portraits of Bartolb and Magdalene^ by Guido ! — S. James, Baldo, in the same picture, by Ra-' by Guercino — the death of the phael M —^ Icarus and DsedaJus, bressed Tii^ti, by Albert Durer— School of Andrea Sacchi — the De- the Adoration of the Magi, by Garo- position firom the Cross, by Vasaii Mb I— Titian, and hts Family, by -^a Landscape, by Both — ^Head hiinself I— Portrait of a Lady, by of a Lady, by Titian— a Fiethy by fitianl — MairhTdom of S. Eras- Annibate Caracci !— a Landscape, mus, ^a Sketch) by Nicolas Pous- by Both l^Diana and Endymion; sin 1-— the Maddalena deHe radid, by Rubens— Portrait, by Van- liyGuidolI— &.Girolamo,byGuer- dyck— Porhrait, by Titian— Por- ainof— S. Mstfk,. by <titto!— S. trait of a' Gentleman with a John, by ditto I-^^-two* Shepherds of book in his hand, by Titian — For-

U) The skull rests upon a tomb bearing thi* (/) The Favourite of Innocent X, and his

wripiioii; *•!, tod;wasofArcBdia:*» ' Si«ier-in-law. ' * " * - -

nsen

tnAt of a HM3f$M Widow, bf by Luca <7iaiHlaao*--ii Laadamo%,

¥iaji|rek-~S. Girolwno, by Asoir by P««l BiiU I—the Prodigal Son,

bakCttsmepi. Siccih aparimfnt — by Guercmol — a Landscape, br

Portrait. ^ Bub«n», of his Wife— . Torregiani!-— two Small Landt

Porlwit, l&ewise Iw Rubens, of a jseapes, by Claude!— the Ma«da-

Creqtkman with gloves — Portrait, lene, by Aimibaie Camas S.

b}r Holbein, of his Wife— and Se- Agnes, by Guercinol—the Ma^ miratnis, Caraeei Sishool. Seventh donna adoring the sleeping Sar apar^9i0n^«— Jacob's Journey,* by viour, by Guido! — Pope Paafili, Bassano — Icarus and Da^lalus, by by Velasquez — ^the Madonna, by Albano — ^a Preiepe, by Bassano Parmigianino -^ Marsyas teaching

• -*-Batbsheba, by Bronehuest-^ Olympus to blow the Dorian Flute,

the Holy Family, by I-<^ovico Ca- by Annibale Caraeci— a Presepe^ racci— and Grecian ' Charity, by by Parmigianino — a large and Valeirtii), Gallery, Firet Dm* sublime Landscape, by Saivator MQft.-rrThe Visitation by Garofolo — Rosa» called his Belisario////-^ the Madonna, by Sassoferrato I — ^a a Landscape, by Both, with figures Landscape, by Domenichino ! — ^two representing Christ in the Wilder- Small Oval Landscapes, by ditto f ness, attended by Angels — ^four r— the Confessor of Rubens, ^ the Misers counting money, attributed latter !r— the Magdalene, by Titian to Manescalco of Anvers ! — a half- T^the Flight into Egypt, by Ajuii-t length Figure of a Faun with Pan's bale Caraeci I!! — alargeandsplen- Pipe, School of Rembrandt — ^the did Landscape, by Claude! I! — ^the Madonna, the Infant Jesus, and Visitation, by Annibale Caraeci 1 1 ! Saints, by Lodovico Caraeci. — S. John Baptist, by Valentin — Fowth division* — An Ecce Homo, the Assumption of the blessed Vir-* bv Lodovico Caraeci — the Holy ™, by Annibale Caraeci!!! — S. Family with two Angels, by Fra Francesco and Angels, by Annit Bartolomn),eo— the£arth,beingone bale Caraeci! — Lot and his Dau^h- of the Four Elements, painted bv ters, by Gherardo deUe Nottil— r Breughel! — a Landscape, witn two Landscapes, by Both — Christ fije^res of a Hermit, &c. by Dome- borne to the Sepulchre, by Annif nichino ! — Susanna, by Annibale bale Caraeci!!! — the Death of Caraeci — The Air, by Breughel ! — Tancred, by Guercino — ^the Nati<- a Lanidscape with figures on the vity, by Annibale Caraeci ! ! ! — B, side of a river, by Domenichino ! f — Roeeo, by Schidone — ^the AdojraT Sampson, by Guercino — Noah's tion of the Magij by Annibale Ca- Ark, by Bassano — Fire, by Breu- vacci ! ! ! — a large and splendid ghel ! — two Small Landscapes, by Landscape, 1^ Claude, represent^ Both — an Angel visiting S, Peter ing a Sacrince to the Delphic when in Prison, by Lanfranco I — a Apollo!!!!— Sketch, by Corregmo, Small Picture of our Saviour on of Virtue and other Figures. The the Cross, by Michael Angelo I— second division of the Uallery con- the Garden of Eden, by Breughel I tains Frescos on the Ceiling, by — ^Abraham's Offering of his Son, Melani; but no easel pictures, by Titian!! — Water, being the Third division, — A beautiful Land<» fourth Element painted, by Breu- scape, by Claude, with Figures by ghel! — a Wedding Feast, by Te- Filippo Lauri, representmg the niers ! ! — a Woman catching Fleas, Repose in Egypt ! ! ! — a half-length by Gherardo delle Notti — the Mad- Female Figure, by Murillo ! — the (mena sedente, by Caravaggio ! — Holy Family, by Garofolo — a Head, Queen Giovanna of Arragon, by by Rubens— a Magdalene, by Feti Leonardo da Vinci— a Copy of the —the Slaughter of the Innocents, Aldobrandi Marriage, by Nicolas

232 ROME. [Clx*Vn.

Poussin-^Portrait of a Duke of Sarto! — the same suljjectjbyGhe- Ferrara, by Tintoretto— Portrait of raixio delle Notti — the Madonna an old Man with a Beard, by Titian and our Saviour, by Rubens — a — ^the Deposition from the Cross, Pieth, by Bassano — ^two Sea-Ports, by Padovanino— and the Holy Fa- by Fiamingo — a large Picture, by mily and S. Catherine, by Titian. Palma Giovane — S. Francesco, by - Palazzo-Bracciano, This spa- Lodovico Caracci — and a Magda- cious Mansion, built by the Chigi lene, by Guido. The fifth room Family, has recently been fitted up contains a Mosaic Pavement ad- withpeculiartaste and magnificence mirably copied from that with ^ by its present possessor, the Duke which Sylla is supposed- to have di Bracciano. The Quadrangle embellished the celebrated Temple and Stoircflwc are ornamented with of Fortune at Palestrina*. The ancient and modem Sculpture; sixth apartment (leading to the and among the Paintings, in the baJl-room) has a Ceiling paint- rooms usually shewn to Strangers, ed by Pozzi. In the BaU'room is are the following. First room-^ a Mosaic Pavement, beautifully Two Landscapes, by Claude, one copied from that which adorns the of which is very beautiful — ^the Circular Hall of the Vatican Mu- Holy Family, by Giovanni Bellinb . seum. Here are several pieces of — ^the Magdalene, by Murillo — arid modem Sculpture ; pre-eminent Christ with the Woman of Sama- among which, is the Hercules of ria, by Pietro da Cortona. Second Canova, represented in the act of room. — Cleopatra, by Guido ! — ^the . throwing Lichas into the sea. Here Madonna and Infant Jesus, by Sas- likewise are some ancient Statues, •ftoferrato ! — Painting and Sculp- and a Ceiling painted by DomenicO ture, by Guercino — Children, by del Frati and the Cav. Landi : the GiuUo Romano — S. Gregorio, by Oval, near the Group of Hercules Caravaggio — S. Girolamo, by and Lichas, is by the latter. The Guercino — a large Picture, by room communicating with this Schidone — ^the Mairiage of S. Ca- apartment has a Ceiling paint- therine, by Parmigianino-;-and the ed by the Cav. Camuccini ; and Holy Family, by Giulio Romano, representing the Fable of Cupid 7%«>fl? room —Several interesting and Psyche. The Pavement is a Portraits ; among which are two Copy from ancient mosaics : and Heads, by Luini ; one, by-Raphael ; the room in the same line beyond and one, by Velasquez, represent- this, contains an ancient Statue of ing Innocent X — two full-length a Philosopher seated. Beyond Portraits, by Vandyck — and a the ball-room, on the right, is a beautiful miniature Pieth, by An- Cra//«r^ ornamented with an ancient nibaJe Caracci ! ! Fourth room. Statue of a Canephora, and a Ceil- — ^The Holy Family, by Andrea del ing finely painted by Pelagi.

' (s) This Mosaic is supposed, by Winckel- • Travels in Egypt: and thus far seems cer-

mann, to represent the arrival of Menelaus in tain, that the scene lies in the Island of Ele-

Egypt : but Kirker thinks it an Allegory ; the phantine, near Syene, and below the Cataracts

first part shewing the evils occasioned by For- of the Nile. It has been already mentioned

tune when adverse; the secorfd the sacrifices that Mosaics were used in Persia dnring the

offered to render her OTopitious; and the third time of Artaxerxes ; and thence the art of

.the solemnities used m thankinjg her for making them was probably transported to

favours bestowed. The Cardinal de Polignac Assyria, Greece, and Rome. But the Mosaic

supposes It to represent the Expedition of at Palcstrina seems, from the shape of the

Alexander to the Temple of Jnpiter-Ammon : Greek letters, (particularly the Kp^iion and

and the Abb< Barthelemy (in consequence, Sigma) in which the names of the animals re-

perhaps, of observing that several of the presented are specified, to be rather of the

figures are m the Roman military garb ; second century than older, in which case

and that above the gate of a building orna- this Mosaic must have been made long after

xnentedwith four Egyptian statues is a Ro- Sylla's time, and probably during the reign of

man eagle) supposes the rabjeci to be Adrian's Adrian. .

Ch.VII.] ROME. 233

PaiazzO'Cohnna. This immense Flora ; together with that of a Re-

Structure stands on the site of the cumbent Female, supposed to be Domus Comelii, On tlie Stair- Grecian sculpture, case is a Statue represent- The Palace likewise contains a ing a Captive, (probably taken small Column of rosso antioo, from the Forum of Trajan ;) and called The Colonna BeUica : which fixed in the Wall, opposite to the once stood before the Temple of door of entrance, is a Basso-rUievo • Bellona ; and near what is suj)- of porphyry, representing the Head posed to have been the Site of this . of Medusa, and supplied to be a Temple, the Column in question likeness of Nero. The ante-room was found **. to the Gallery contiains several Palazzo- Giustinianu This £di- Pictures ; among which are, Cal- iice stands on the site of Nero*s .vin, byTitian — Luther, by the same Baths * ; whence several of the An- artist--Cain and Abel, bv Andrea tiquities of its Museum were taken ; Sacchi — Europa, by Albano — a but as the major part have been Peasant eating, attributed to An- sold, little now remains worth no- nibale Caracci — and a Portrait, by tice, except a Group in the Hall of Paolo Veronese. The Colonna entrance, representing two Warriors Gallery (with respect to size and fighting ; and, in the other Apart- architecture, the finest apartment ments, a Grecian Statue, witn the at Rome) measures, in length, arms elevated — a Group called two hundred and nine Paris feet ; Conjugal Love — a Bust of Scipio and, in breadth, thirty-five : at —a Statue, called Paris — ditto, of each extremity is a Vestibule, se- a Goat — a Group representing parated from the rest of the Galleiy Hercules and Cerberus — ^and the by. Columns and Pilasters of giallo Statue of a sleeping Female, antico. . The Ceiling is well paint- Chiesa di S» Luigi di Francia. ed ; and represents the sanguinary The second Chapel on the right of Battle of Lepanto, fought in the the Principal Entrance to this GulfofPatras; and among the Pic- Church contains Frescos, by Do- tures and Statues which embellish menichino ; which represent the this apartment are the following. Alms-d£eds,Death, and Apotheosis A Landscape, by Nicolas Poussin of. S. Cecilia; with other, circum- — ditto, by Vander-Werf — Land- stances relative to her, and her scapes, by Gasparo Poussin, Ori- Husband, S. Valerian, zonte, Paul Bnll, Breughel, Berg- Palazzo - Massimi — celebrated ham,^. — ^theMadonna,theSaviour, for containing the Statue of a and S.John, by Romanelli — S.Peter Discobolus, in white marble, with the An^l, byLanfranco — ^the copied from that, in bronze, by Magdalene m glor^r, by Annibale Myron; and one of the finest Caracci— S. S&astiano, by Guer- pieces of sculpture in Rome ! I ! cino — S. John in the Desert, by It was found on the Esquiline Salvador Rosa — C^jsar sacrificing. Hill. On the back-front of the by Carlo Maratta— and a Sketdi Palazzo-Massimi are Frescos, by by Titian, of himself and his Fa- Caravaggio I mih^ at their devotions. Statues PcUazzo-Braschi, This magni- of Venus, Germanicus, Trajan, and ficoit Structure, built after the

(h) When Rome declared war against a der Severus: thej extended to the Piasxa

foreign enemy, an arrow was shot from the top Rondinini; near which spot, in a Public

of the Colaron which stood before theTempte House, contiguous to the Church of the Mad-

j^-nii __j T! i.1 — /-TiL T ^ *L_A j_, — — ^ i?ii._!_ • — -">- be traced.

ornament" statues.

•84 BOICE. [Ch, Vn.

designs oi tiM Oftr. Moreili, Is iaiposiiig ; <fae ocMHitioa dsUeate ;

ftdcmed by a Stakcase pajrticularly the preservation of tiba marble (mbf-

beautiful, both with reupect to itls ^t; in short, this is, aceording

CDnstruction and its decorations ; to the <^inion of Maxman, the

among the latter of which are sixr finest of all the existing statues of

teen Columns of red oriental gra<> Antinous^.

nite ; Pilasters of the same ; and PcdazasO'FUmese. This immense 9^-

four antique Statues, namely, Palace, eommenced by Sangallo, ^

Oommodus, Cones, Achilles, and and finished by Michael Angelo

Pallas, /n the apartmenU up- and Giaoomo della Porta, is

stairs are the following Pictures, a peculiarly fine piece of arehi>-

The Madonna and our Saviour, by tccture^ B^wre it stand two

Bassoferrato-— the same subject, bj magnificent oval Basins of Egyp^

Guido — ^the Madonna, our Savi- tian granite, (above seventeen

our, and Saints, by Garofolo — two feet in lengtti, and in depth bea>

fine PcMrtraits, by Vandyck — ^Dali«- tween four and five,) which were

la and SampsoA, by Caravaggio found in Caraealla*s Baths; and

-r-tbe Miracle of the loaves and in^A^QtMu/ran^/d is theSarcopha*

fishes, by Garofolo t — the Woman gus of Ccecilia Metella, made of

detected m Adultery, by Titian \-^ Parian marble, and found in her .

the Madonna and Angels, by Mur Monument. The Gallery above

nUo I ! — ^the Marriage of S. Cathe^ etaire is ornamented with some of

rine, by Fra Bartolomraeo — the the most admired Frescos in Rome,

Marriage of Cana in Galilee, l^ executed by Annibale Caraeci and

Garofolo ! — S. Sebastiano, 1^ Fia-P his scholars. The c^tre pitce on

siingo — Copy, bv one of the Ca^ the Ceiling represents the Triumph

racci School, or a Holy Family of Baccims and Ariadne t Other

?ainted by Raplui^-^Luoretia, by paintings represent Paris reeeiv- 'aolo Veronese — and the Cruoi«- mg the golden Apple from Mer-» fixion, by Tintoretto. cury — Pan offering ^oat-skins to An unjinieked apartment of this Diana — Galatea with Tritons, Palace contains a celebrated Cot Nymphs, and Loves^^Jupiter and lossal Statue of Antinous, in the Juno^-Apollo flaying Marsyas — character of Osiris, the Egyptian Boreas oarrying off Orythia-**- Bacchus : it was found in the Villa Diana and £ndymion — ^Euryttice of Antoninus Pius, at Palestrina, recalled to the Shades Below— during tiie Pontificate of Pius VI ; Europa on the Bull — Aurora and is of beautiful Greek marble, and Cephalus in a chariot. Titan about eleven English feet in height asleep, and Cupid flying with a The left hand once held a thyrsus of basket of roses — ^Venus and An- bronze; and close to the left leg ehises-^-Heroules and lole-r^Cu- stands the mystic Basket of Bac- pid binding a Satyr— Salmads and ohus. The brouze deapeary, which Hermaphroditus — Syrinx turned eriginally covered pui; of this into reeds by Pan — lieander, con- figure, is, Uke the tl^rsus, lost: duoted by Cumd, swimming to the face and hair precisely resent visit Hero — rerseus and An- ble the Aita-rilievo of Antinous in dromeda — Pombat between Per* the Villa- Albani ; the character is sens ai)d Phineas — Polyphemus beautiful ; the position grand and playing on the Syringa, to charm

(A) A mutilated Statue, commonlv called (0 Most of the materials for bnildisf tbe

Fasquitt, which • rests against one of the ex- Famese Palace were taken from the Co-

tenor Walls of the Braschi-palace, is supposed losseum and the Theatre of Mareellns : indeed,

(jadring by what remains) to have been on- the Colosseum, during many years, seems

R'aally a splendid work, representing Mene- to have been considered merely as a stom

us with the dead body of Patroclus. quarry.

GalfftparrrP^tnP^WWf |iui^ the III, by T)ti«a--dittQ, of Curdiiia}

^agm^t of ^ rock at Aci»---JuT Spad^, \^y Guido — a Bnow Pieci^,

piter f^;i4 Gaayis^ede — and Hya? attributed to Teniers — the Heads

flnthuc^ arid ApoUo. Aootheir of two Qoys, attributed to Ocmt-

• ^^xkfp.enU isalled J( QnlnnetiQ, reggio I ! — The Magdalene, by

pontai9$ ^e Frescos, by Anni- Guercino — a &ma& Musician,

bale C^acpi ; ^Fiamely, |l|9reule9 t^y C^avaggio-— and a Imrge Pic-

suppprting t)ie celestiid Glpbe^ ture representing the Flight of

tjlyss^s aeliverii^g his Compani- Helen, by Guido.

ens from Circe— the same Hero Paltu^iso-Mattei, This Palace

passipg the Islands of the Sireiis stands oq the Site of the Circus

tr-Anapius ai^d Amphinomus savr Flaminius. The Quadrangle ext

ing their Parents frppi Death, dur- hibits an ancient and valuaU^

ink an Eruption of ^tna — Perseus BoMo-rilievQ of green basalt, re-

tieheading Medusa — and Hercules presenting an Egyptian sacritcial

Wrestling with the Nemaec^n Lipn. procession I and on the Stairs ans

The Ornaments in CkiarQ-sf^rOy two antique Sei^ts of marble, and

«vhich divide these paintings, are two ^ne Bcusi-riiievi. The Cor^

ht^utifully executed* fiahr above is likewise ornamented

^ PaiazaiQ'Spiuia. The greui^ with Bassi-rihevi ; and in the

jy'-fi^T of this f*di{ic^ contains two rooms usually shewn to Stran^^ers

^ f Qoips iUled lyith Sculpture. In are the following Painting. Fish,

the Jhr^t, i^ a Copy of the head Poultry, and Butchers' Meat, four

of LaoQOQTi, and a Statue of Antis* Pictures, all by Ps^seri — Charles I,

^estes seated I! In thfi second, and Charles II, of £ngland, by

are eight Bam-riUevi foupd Vandyck — two Landscapes, attn-r

in the Temple of Bacchus 1 1 an4 buted to Passeri— j|. Holy Family,

a Colossal gtatue of a Warrior of the Caracci School— Abraham's

holding a Globe, supposed (though Saprifice, by Guido — ^the Nativity,

without sufficient authority) to re- by Pietro da Cortona ; and the

present Pompey, and to be the Cavalcade of Clement VI XI, and

Bguve at whose base C^sar fell I ! the Entry of Charles V into

This Statue, according to report, Bologna, by Tempesta. The Gal*

was found in a Vault, under the Uru contains a Bust of Cicero ;

Strada de' Leutarir near the Piaz;?^ and its Ceiling is ftneW painted

di Pasquino. Amon^ the Picture^ by Pietr<]| da Cortona, Paul BrUl,

up'Simr^ the IdUowing are some &c.

of themoatstiiking. FirHroom — Pak^szQ'CQstagMti. Here are

David with llie Head pf Goli^h, six Ceilings finely painted in

hyGueroino; and Roman Chf^rity, fresco; the first, by Albano, re-

^y CaiAvaggio. Second room — presents Hercules wounding the

Judith with the Head of Holo- Centaur—The second, by Domer

^smes, by Giiido — Lucretia, by nichino, represents Apollo in his

ditto! — the head of Seneoa, by Oar; Time brining Truth to

Salvator liosa-r-a Landscape, by light ; and Bpys with lions' skins,

Teni^s — Jacob at the Well, by Hercules's club, &c. I ! — ^The third,

h^icolas Poussin—and Time unt by Guercino, represents Rinaldo

yeihng Truth« by Albano. Third and Armida ! — ^The fourth, by the

ffoom — a Mother teaching her Cav. d'Arpino, represents Juno

Child to wosii, by Oaravaggio ! I — nursing Hercutes. This room like-

the Saviour before Pilate, by Ghe- wise contains Portraits of a Duke

rardo deUe Notti— Beatrice Cenci, mA Duchess of Ferrara, by Titian ;

by Paolo Veronese — and Dido on and an interesting Picture of a

the fui^eral Pile, by Guercina Gipsy, by Caravaggio— The fifth

Skmrik r9p«— "PorbraH of Pavd Cefling, by Lanfranco, represents

236 ROME. tCh.VIL

Justice embracing . Peace — and, — Cupid mounted on an Ea^le^ the sixth, by Romanelli, repre- by Domenichino ! — a Holy Family, sents Anon thrown into the sea, by Fra Bartolommeo ! — S.John, by and preserved by a Dolphin. Correggiol—rthree Frescos, sketch- PalazzO'Falconieri. The Pic- ed by Michael Angelo, and finished tures here, collected by Cardinal by Seb'astiano del Piombb — S. Fesche, are very numerous, and John preaching, by Relhbrandt I— ^ several of them very fine ; those four Heads, by ditto, one being of the Flemish School especially, his own likeness — a' Landscape The first floor contains, the Visi- with Cattle, by Cuyp I-^another, tation, by DanieUo da Volterra — with Fishermen, by ditto! — a Christ supping with the Pilgrims, Landscape, by Paul Potter — a by Paolo Veronese, who has in- Philosopher, by Gerard DOwI — a troduced portraits of his own Battle, by Wouvermans 1 — the family into the picture — ^the Last Caravan, by Adrian Vanderwelde I Judgment, by Tintoretto — the — ^a Landscape, by Paul Potter ! — Assumption, by Guido! — a Ma- the Saviour m Prison, by Tenier*! donna and Child, by Andrea di — a Landscape, by Isaac Van Salerno — a fine Bassano — the Ostade I — ^the inside of a Cottage, Daughter of Herodias with the or Stable, by Teniers ! — Peter Head of S. John, (the latter finely denying the Saviour, by Gherardo executed,) by Guercino — ^the Holy delle Notti — the Magdalene, by Sepulchre, by Albanol — ^the Ma- Vandyck! — insides of Churches, donna, the Saviour and S. John, by Peter Neff — an Ecce Homo, by Murillo I — Peace and Justice, by Rembrandt — ^the Ascension, by author doubtful — a fine Portrait, Vandyck, &c. &c. The second by Titian — S. Carlo Borromeo, floor has not lately been shewn to by Domenichino — Semiramis, at Foreigners; but contained, when her toilet, receiving intelligence last exhibited to public view, a of a revolt, by Mengs — two Por- Picture of Diana and other Fi- traits, by Paris Bordone — a Land- gures, by Le Sueur — Christ,.Mary, scape, Dy Salvator Rosa -^ ditto, and Martha, by the same mas- attributed to Titian— ditto, attri- ter — the following Pictures, by buted to Annibale Caracci— -ditto, Nicolas Poussin ; the Holy Fa- by Gaspdro Poussin — ^the Saviour mily with Angds — Human Life, borne by Angels after the Cruci- represented by the four Seasons I fixion, by Correggio! — ^two Chil- — ^the Deluge! — and a Landscape, dren, by ditto! — a Holy Family, called Les Chartreuxt — Land- by ditto ! — ^a Madonna and Child, scapes, by Claude, &c. &c. ™ by Annibale Caracci — S. John, by Palcuszo -Famesincu The En- \^ Leonardo da Vinci — a Picture in trance Hall of this Edifice is finely the style of Murillo, author un- painted in Fresco, by Raphael and known — a Picture, painted by nis Scholars, who have represented Raphael when he was only eigh- the History of Psyche. On the teen, and before he quitted the Ceiling are the Council and Ban- School of Perugino— and another, quet of the Gods — in one of the painted afterwards, when he was Aisles are the Graces ; and she, five-and-twenty — ^the Holy Sepul- whose back only is seen, was chre, by Annibale Caracci I — executed entirely by Raphael. In Sketch, by Correggio — a Holy an adjoining Room it his Galatea, Family, by Andrea del Sarto — a coloured by himself, together with Madonna and Child, by Schidone ! a fine Colossal Head (in one of

(fn) In order io 9ee Cardinal Fesche's pic- for permission; and likewise to mention the

it i« requisite to apply to his Secretary names of the persons who wish to be^^itted.

/

Ch.VII.] ROME. - 237

the LvHlettesJ sketched by Michael Vestal, by ' Carlo Maratta -^ the

Angeio". • On /the Ceiling of this Holy Family, by ditto— Raphael's

room are Diana in her Car — and Fbmctrina, attributed to Giulio

the Fable of Medusa — together Romano — S. Girolamo, attributed

with several oth^ Ornaments, by to Titian— Paul III, attributed to

Daniello da Yolterra, Sebastiano Raphael — ^the Magdalene, by Ba^

del Piombo, and Balthazar Pe- roccio — S- John, by Guef cino — ^the

riizzi. The Hall above-stairs is- Holy Family, by Bassane -r- the

ornamented with a Painting* of Crucifixion of S. Peter, by Guido!

Vulcan's Forge, by Peruzzi ; and a — a Wild-beast Hunt, by Rubens ! !

Frieze, executed by the Scholars — the Decapitation of S. John,

of Raphaels by GuidoII! — S. Peter and S.

Palazzo- Coreim, This noble. Agata, by Lanfiranco — Head of

Pialace, once the residence of Cardinal Barberini, by Domeni-

Christina of Sweden, contains chino — a Hare, by Albert Durer! I

a magnificent double Staircase, — and a small statue of Christ,

which leads to a suite of Apart- by Michael Angelo I Fifth room

ments enriched with some good — The Madonna, by Carlo Ma-

Seulpture and several fine Pictures, ratta — an Ecce Homo, by. Carlo

First room — ^A Sarcophagus, found Dolci ! — ^the same subject, by Guido

at Antium ! — an ancient Mosaic — — ^two Landscapes, by the master

aHead, copied fi-om Guido, in mo- of Claude Lorrain — the Saviour

dem Mosaic — a Bust, in nero an- and the Woman of Samaria, l^

tico. Second room — ^The Marriage Guercino — and the Nativity, by

of S. Catherine, by Carlo Maratta Gherardo delle Notti. Sixth room

— Landscapes, by Orizbnte, &c. —Portrait of a Lady, by Leonardo .

Thirdroom — A Head, by Rubens ! da Vinci— the Sons of Charles V,

— an Ecce Homo, by Guercino ! ! I by Titian — Cardinal Castiglione,

— Christ before Pilate, by Van- by Raphael!— a Cardinal, by Do-

dvck !~S. Peter, by Caravaggio — menichino— and a Doge of Venice,

tne H9ly Family, by Baroccio — ^the by Tintoretto. Seventh room—

Madonna and Infant Saviour, by The Madonna and Infant Jesus,

Caravaggio ! ! I — the same subject, by Muriilo ! 1 1— a Small Picture of

by Vandyck! — ^two Small Land- Christ, &c., by Corre^io— a Large

scapes, by Salvator Rosa — two Landscape, by Gasparo Poussin !! !

Heads, supposed to represent Lu- — two Landscapes, by Orizonte —

ther and his Wife, by Holbein — ^the Christ bearing his Cross, by Ga-

HolyFamily,byFraBartolommeo!! rof61o— the Martyrdom of S. Bar-

— the same subject, by Garofolo — tolommeo, by Lodovico Caracci !—

Heathen Divinities, by Albano I — a Portrait, by Domenichino —

Portrait of Julius II, attributed Christ disputing with the Doctors,

to Raphael — Portrait of Philip II, by Luca Giordano — the Woman

by Titian — and an ancient Consular detected in Adultery, by Titian !—

Chair of Parian marble, embellish- and S. Sebastiano, by Rubens,

edwith bassi-rilievi ; and found on. Eighth room^A Pieth, by Lodo-

or near, the site of the Basilica of vico Caracci ! — S. Jolin Baptist,

S. Giovanni in Laterano. Fourth by Caravaggio— two Oval Pictures,

room — The Madonna and our Sa- by Albano— Judith with the Head

viour, by Andrea del Sai-to — a of Holofemes, by Gherardo delle

(«) Wc are told that Michael Ang^elo, so poignantlj, that he became disgusted with ihtBkmg the figures in this room too dimtnu- his work, and left it nnfinished. live for the sitnations in which they are (oj Unless the Costode be apprised before- placed, drew the above-named Head, in order hand, it is not always possible to gain admit- to make Raphael sensible of his error: and tftnce to the Falatzo-Faraesina. Haphael is supposed to have felt the criticism

KDMR [CH, Vlt

N6tti!-^Lcrve8le€ping,bfGiiido— the Etiipe^dr Napol^on^ is ilso SeneciamtheBath, byCfflcraVaggio oalled *«Accadeiliia di S, Ltica"; —Landscapes, byGa^aroPcnissiil sind the Students belonging to tMS —Peter denying Christ, byValen- useful establishment receive, grtt- tin — a Sketch for a Frieze, by tuitouslyj theoretical and practied Polidoro da Caravaggio! — and lessons on the Art of Drawifi^. Susanna, by Domeniehinot Ninth This Academy is likewise prbvided room — Two Colossal Heads, by with able Masters, who instHi^ft Lodovico Caraeci — four Heads, theif Pupils in Sculpture, Paint- by Parmigianino— a large Picture^ ing. Architecture, in all itsf by Titian, representing Venus, &c. branches, Geotnetry^ Perspective*

— Sheep, &c., by Teniers I — the and Optics, Anatomy, Hi^torjTy Holy Family, by Nicdlas Poussin Mythology, and Costumes.

— Prometheus, by SfiQvator Rosa Rome contains several Hospi- —the Pla^e at Milan, by Mura- tals : that of S. S|]iirito is a hatid- tori — a Landscape, by Nicolas some Edifice; ana receives FoUrid-* Poussin I— and two Oval Pictures lings and Side Persons of all descrip^ of Angels, by Sebastian© del tions : but the want of deanliries* Piombo. in this Hospital renders it a dan-

Actademia di S, Luca. This gerous place to visit. The Hbs- Academy, and the adjoining Church pital of S. Michele, also, is a spa^ of Saints Luca and Martina, stand cious Building ; and receives thtf near the Forum of Augustus ; and Sick, the Aged, and the Orphan- the latter is supposed to have been Poor ; the last of whom . are in- erected on the foundations of the stnicted in the Arts of Painting, Secretarium Senatus, The Aca- and of weaving Tapestry, demy contains the Skull of Ra- The Mosaic Manufacture, undei^ phael — a Celebrated Picture, by the direction of the Cav. Camuc?- that Artist, of S. Luke painting cini, at the Yatiean^ is well woHlr the Portraits of the Madonna and notice ; as are the Siudii of so our Saviour, and Raphael himself many distinguished Artists, Ihat looking on ^ ! — a Picture of Christ it would exceed the limits of ^ith the Pharisee^ by Titian!— this Work to partifeularize them' two Landscapes, by Salvator Rosa ^1.

—ditto, by Gasparo Poussin — two The pre-eminent Sculptor of the

Heads, by Angelica, one being her present moment (1827) is the Cav.

own Portrait — Models, by Michael Thorwaldsen ; Who excels in everjr

Angelo, of some of his Figures in branch of his sublime Art ; and

the Cappella de' Principi at Flo- whose chisel produces BcaH-rilievi

rence; and several other interest- which, like the Frescos of Ra-

ing pieces of Sculpture and Paint- phdel, may be called inimitable,

ing. The Church of Saints Luca Other distinguished (Sculptors are

and Martina contains a Recum- — Antonio and Alessandro D'Este

bent Statue of the latter Saint — ^FinelU — Pozzi — Gibson — Ca-

under the High-altar, by Niccok> puti^ celebrated for ^orkiSi in bfonze

Menghino ; and here likewise is a — Hopfgarten and Jqllage, like^

Subterranean Chapel, made by wise celebrated for works iti brotiztf

Pietro da Cortona at his own ex- — and Gioacchiiio and Pietro Bel-

pense. li, distinguished fcft the elegatictf

The Roman Accademia delle of their works in silver. belle Arti, founded in the time of The most eminent Histoiieal^

0>) This picture hM been to mtteh restored, tlmt very little now reiasias Of tire origimtl